IFRA Presentation PerfumerysFuture V4 KYDD

8/3/2019 IFRA Presentation PerfumerysFuture V4 KYDD

1/16

Perfumerys Future:

A Bloggers Perspective

Presented by Michelle Krell KyddEditor ofGlass Petal Smoke

Blog: http://www.glasspetalsmoke.blogspot.comEmail: glasspetalsmoke [at] gmail [dot] com
http://www.glasspetalsmoke.blogspot.com/http://www.glasspetalsmoke.blogspot.com/


2/16

How I Got Here

Integrated marketing and communications consultant tothe beauty and food industries.

Discovered at a Montblanc fragrance training; identified18 out of 23 raw materials in a blind evaluation.

Learned what the word sillage meant after being chased

down the street by a four-star French chef who insistedon smelling a perfume I was wearing.

Fragrance educated by life, Givaudan and FIT. Co-produced the first flavor and fragrance event at The

James Beard Foundation with White House Pastry Chef

Bill Yosses in 2006. Founded Glass Petal Smoke, an award-winning flavor

and fragrance blog, in April 2007. Contributor to Perfumer & Flavoristmagazine.
http://glasspetalsmoke.blogspot.com/http://glasspetalsmoke.blogspot.com/


3/16

I Have a Credo: I Smell Therefore I Am

I fell in love with my sense of smell in the FragranceGarden at Brooklyn Botanic Garden. I was 10-years-oldand discovered Lemon Balm, thanks to my 5th gradeteacher, Mrs. Longert.

The first perfume I ever owned was Coty Sweet EarthRare Flowers. (I pine for Max Factors Khara, adiscontinued fragrance I wore in my teens).

I am interested in the art of perfumery, the science ofolfaction and neurogenetics, and advances in thediagnosis and treatment of anosmia.

I have learned more about the sense of smell bystudying its absence. This has led to meaningfulinteraction with anosmia groups on Facebook, andindividuals on Twitter. I am known as an olfie in thesecircles; one who has a fully functioning olfactory systemand can smell.


4/16

Why Do I Blog?

To share my passion for smell and taste while educating,inspiring and empowering others.

To help readers find a way to understand and expresswhat they experience when they smell, and to helpbridge the gap between sensory emotion and objectiveexperience.

Fact: Bloggers create havens for like-minded individualsto assist each other in the olfactory discovery process,while validating their passion and experience.

Few if any bloggers work in the industry which allowsme to bring expertise to the blogosphere.


5/16

A Philosophical Smell Insight

It is the familiar that usually eludes us in life.

What is before our nose is what we see last.

William Barrett


6/16

A Scientific Smell Insight

Twenty-five years ago, the physician andwriter Lewis Thomas predicted that the progressof biological research would be measured by howlong it took to gain a complete understanding ofodor.

"It may not seem a profound enough problemto dominate all the life sciences," he observed,"but it contains, piece by piece, all the mysteries.

--February 2007, HHMI Bulletin
http://hhmi.org/bulletin/feb2007/features/http://hhmi.org/bulletin/feb2007/features/http://hhmi.org/bulletin/feb2007/features/http://hhmi.org/bulletin/feb2007/features/http://hhmi.org/bulletin/feb2007/features/http://hhmi.org/bulletin/feb2007/features/


7/16

A Neurogenetic Smell Insight

In the past seven years, theVosshall Lab at RockefellerUniversity has been carrying out a number of studieswith healthy human volunteers in an effort tounderstand how people detect smells and how they cantell very similar smells apart.

If there is a genetic basis for smell preferences, thiscould have profound implications for perfumery.
http://vosshall.rockefeller.edu/http://vosshall.rockefeller.edu/


8/16

I Was a Neurogenetics Lab Rat

I participated in Dr. Vosshalls study on theGeneticBasis of Odor Discrimination.

I was required to smell hundreds of samples, in pairsand trios, comparing and contrasting what I smelled.

The ingredients I smelled, in varying dilutions were: (-)carvone, (+) carvone, isovaleric acid, isobutyric acid,androstenone and androstadienone.

Without Givaudans fragrance training under my belt Iwould have quit after my first whiff of isobutyric acid.

Olfactory education teaches objectivity in the evaluationprocess. This gives one perspective, so personal likesand dislikes dont get in the way of experiencingsomething for its own sake; a life lesson indeed!
http://vosshall.rockefeller.edu/smellstudy.phphttp://vosshall.rockefeller.edu/smellstudy.phphttp://vosshall.rockefeller.edu/smellstudy.phphttp://vosshall.rockefeller.edu/smellstudy.phphttp://vosshall.rockefeller.edu/smellstudy.php


9/16

The Case for Olfactory Education

The most highly read articles on Glass Petal Smokeareeducational in nature. Readers are interested in culture,history and science as told through the sense of smell.

Glass Petal SmokeTwitterfollowers retweeteducational tweets most. (Twitterspeak for repeat)

The social space allows consumers to share sensoryimpressions with like-minded peers and developolfactory/gustatory vocabularies, but they cant do itwithout the help of true experts.

The industry has an incredible opportunity to fill theeducational void that exists today! Without expertguidance, notions transform into truth by virtue ofrepetition, (like the childrens game of telephone wherea message is passed in whispers from ear to ear, and isoften comically distorted when it gets to the lastperson).
https://twitter.com/glasspetalsmokehttps://twitter.com/glasspetalsmokehttps://twitter.com/glasspetalsmokehttps://twitter.com/glasspetalsmokehttps://twitter.com/glasspetalsmokehttps://twitter.com/glasspetalsmokehttps://twitter.com/glasspetalsmokehttps://twitter.com/glasspetalsmoke


10/16

Rethinking Competitionfor the Sake of Education

Competition thrives on concealing communication.

Cooperation, by contrast, gains from its open sourceapproach to sharing.

Manipulation, imitation, deception and silence are noteffective forms of communication.

Authenticity, dialogue and a willingness to inform are thehallmarks of cooperative communication.

Whats the net-net? Share what you can in an authentic andengaging manner so customers will want to know moreabout your products.


11/16

The Future of Perfumery

Great creations are inspired by artistry that pushesboundaries, imagination that riffs on common notionsand shatters them, reconfiguring the fragments so thatevery finished fragrance released resonates withanother; not in sameness, but in thoughtfulness thatengenders respect for the art of perfumery and results

in a consumers desire to purchase fragrance.

*FromThe Geometry of Perfumes Future,on Glass Petal Smoke
http://glasspetalsmoke.blogspot.com/2009/09/geometry-of-perfumes-future.htmlhttp://glasspetalsmoke.blogspot.com/2009/09/geometry-of-perfumes-future.html


12/16

The Future of Perfumery: Specifics

The inspiration for future fragrances will be born out ofcarefully orchestrated synesthetic experiences thatcomplement the sense of smell and reach beyond thegourmand approach of mixing appetizing aspects witharomatic ones.

New accords and fragrance families will enter theolfactory palette enhancing emotion via the five senses.

Fragrance will literally touch the consumer utilizingwarming, tingling, and cooling sensations.

Believable storytelling will infuse fragrance marketingwith elements that are authentic, timeless andeducational. The art of perfumery will inspire all!

Lastly, the paradox of collective individuality will beexplored against a global canvas that encourages andrespects cultures of difference; an extension of theeffects of social media.


13/16

Use Social Media to Nurture the Futureof Perfumery

To do so effectively: Stay focused on education and listen to your customer.

Social media is about dialogue versus monologue. (Noone likes a narcissist.)

Engage with questions and responses, sharing what youknow with others; that is social behavior on and offline. Let consumers see perfumery from a perfumers point of

view so they can understand the creation process andthe sense of smell.

Design online tools to help consumers develop anolfactory vocabulary; on your website or as an opensource industry project among IFRA members.


14/16

Use Your Nose to Discover the Futureof Perfumery

Now we will play a game of smell and tell! With the paper and pencil provided write down your

gender, age and favorite smell memory. You will be given a blotter dipped in a perfume created

as the result of an online perfume brief on Twitter. Writedown your impression of the scent; what you smell, howit makes you feel, etc.

After the cards are returned you will learn what anosmiahas to do with what you have just smelled. I will share

some of the responses, time permitting. The pencil you have been given also contains a clue

about perfumerys future which I will also reveal.


15/16

Some Scent-tastic Revelations!

The fragrance you smelled is called Eau Pear Tingle. The brief was presented to Glass Petal Smokefollowers

on Twitter. Independent (aka, indie) perfumers wereasked to create a trigeminally sensed perfume that couldbe detected by anosmics.

The trigeminal nerve in taste allows one to detecttexture, temperature, the spiciness of cayenne, thecooling effects of mint, the tingling of carbonation, etc.(it is a form of sensation orientation).

Kedra Hart, owner of Opus Oils has a mother whosuffers from anosmia due to a head injury. Ms. Hart tookthe challenge and created what you have just smelled. Itwas created out of love for her mother.

The only other person to have smelled this in theprofessional community is Dr. Leslie Vosshall and YOU.


16/16

The Future of Perfumery Doesnt Stop Here

Youve had a whiff of the future of perfumery; you alsowrote with it!

The Rhodia pencil is an example of how an ordinaryobject can be designed to create new experiences; justlike Eau Pear Tingle.

The Rhodia pencil is made of Incense Cedarwood; thesame ingredient used in perfumery.

Like Apple, Rhodia found a way to improve userexperience while make something aesthetically pleasing.They did this by elevating form and function; honoring

customer experience and their brands heritage. Now that youve had some new experiences of your

own, share what youve learned with colleagues and giveme something to talk about at a future fragrance event!
http://glasspetalsmoke.blogspot.com/2008/06/rhodia-pencil-for-senses.htmlhttp://glasspetalsmoke.blogspot.com/2008/06/rhodia-pencil-for-senses.html

Documents

IFRA Presentation PerfumerysFuture V4 KYDD