NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGYNew Delhi

WINTER INTERNSHIP REPORT

2010-2012

SARLA FABRIC PRIVATE LIMITED

Submitted by:

Nalin kumar

Rajesh kumar Mishra

Roopam Nayak

CERTIFICATE

ACKNOWLEDGEMENT

This report marks the completion of the two week industrial training programme undertaken

as a part of M.F.Tech curriculum.

We are highly thankful to Mr. Devanshu Narang, C.E.O.,Sarla Fabric Pvt. Ltd. firstly for

permitting us to undertake this training at such a modern processing house and overall for

the facilities that were made available for us in all the possible ways during this period. We

are also thankful to Mr.Sachin (HR Dept.),for guiding us during the training period.

We are also indebted to all the staff members and the workers of the Sarla Fabric Pvt. Ltd.

We express my heartiest thanks to Dr. Rishi P. Jamdagni(Director),

Dr.S.K.Dhamija (Training Officer) Prof. A.K. Patra (H.O.D.,T.C.)

Chapter I

INTRODUCTION

Indian Textile Industry - Introduction

Company Profile

Group philosophy

Group quality policy

Organizational Structure

Chapter II

WORK PROCESSES

Weaving

Processing

Chapter III

TECHNOLOGIES USED

Machines used in Weaving

Machines used in Processing

Chapter IV

MINOR PROJECTS

UNDERTAKEN

• Printing

• Sanforizing

INDEX

CHAPTER I

INTRODUCTION

Indian Textile Industry - Introduction

Company Profile

Group philosophy

Group quality policy

Organizational Structure

INDIAN TEXTILE INDUSTRY - INTRODUCTION

Overview

The Textile Sector in India ranks next to Agriculture. Textile is one of India’s oldest industries

and has a formidable presence in the national economy in as much as it contributes to about

14 per cent of manufacturing value-addition, accounts for around one-third of our gross

export earnings and provides gainful employment to millions of people. The textile industry

occupies a unique place in our country. One of the earliest to come into existence in India, it

accounts for 14% of the total Industrial production, contributes to nearly 30% of the total

exports and is the second largest employment generator after agriculture.

Textile Industry is providing one of the most basic needs of people and the holds importance;

maintaining sustained growth for improving quality of life. It has a unique position as a self-

reliant industry, from the production of raw materials to the delivery of finished products, with

substantial value-addition at each stage of processing; it is a major contribution to the

country's economy. This paper deals with structure, growth and size of the Indian textile

industry, role of textile industry in economy, key advantages of the industry, textile industry

export and global scenario and strength, weakness, opportunities and treats of the Indian

textile industry.

India’s textile industry is one of the economy’s largest. In 2000/01, the textile and garment

industries accounted for about 4 percent of GDP, 14 percent of industrial output, 18 percent of

industrial employment, and 27 percent of export earnings (Hashim). India’s textile industry is

also significant in a global context, ranking second to China in the production of both cotton

yarn and fabric and fifth in the production of synthetic fibers and yarns.

In contrast to other major textile-producing countries, mostly mostly small-scale, non

integrated spinning, weaving, cloth finishing, and apparel enterprises, many of which use

outdated technology, characterize India’s textile sector. Some, mostly larger, firms operate in

the “organized” sector where firms must comply with numerous government labor and tax

regulations.

Indian Textile Industry Structure And Growth

Most firms, however, operate in the small-scale “unorganized” sector where regulations are

less stringent and more easily evaded. The unique structure of the Indian textile industry is

due to the legacy of tax, labor, and other regulatory policies that have favoured small-scale,

labor-intensive enterprises, while discriminating against larger scale, more capital-intensive

operations. The structure is also due to the historical orientation towards meeting the needs

of India’s predominately low-income domestic consumers, rather than the world market.

Policy reforms, which began in the 1980s and continued into the 1990s, have led to

significant gains in technical efficiency and international competitiveness, particularly in the

spinning sector. However, broad scope remains for additional reforms that could enhance the

efficiency and competitiveness of India’s weaving, fabric finishing, and apparel sectors.

Unlike other major textile-producing countries, India’s textile industry is comprised mostly of

small-scale, nonintegrated spinning, weaving, finishing, and apparel-making enterprises. This

unique industry structure is primarily a legacy of government policies that have promoted

labor-intensive, small-scale operations and discriminated against larger scale firms:

• Composite Mills. Relatively large-scale mills that integrate spinning, weaving and,

sometimes, fabric finishing are common in other major textile-producing countries. In

India, however, these types of mills now account for about only 3 percent of output in the

textile sector. About 276 composite mills are now operating in India, most owned by the

public sector and many deemed financially “sick.”

• Spinning. Spinning. is the process of converting cotton or manmade fiber into yarn to be

used for weaving and knitting. Largely due to deregulation beginning in the mid-1980s,

spinning is the most consolidated and technically efficient sector in India’s textile industry.

Average plant size remains small, however, and technology outdated, relative to other

major producers. In 2002/03, India’s spinning sector consisted of about 1,146 small-scale

independent firms and 1,599 larger scale independent units.

Structure Of India’s Textile Industry

India has already completed more than 50 years of its independence. The analysis of the

growth pattern of different segment of the industry during the last five decades of post

independence era reveals that the growth of the industry during the first two decades after

the independence had been gradual, though lower and growth had been considerably slower

during the third decade. The growth thereafter picked up significantly during the fourth

decade in each and every segment of the industry. The peak level of its growth has however

been reached during the fifth decade i.e., the last ten years and more particularly in the 90s.

The Textile Policy of 1985 and Economic Policy of 1991 focussing in the direction of

liberalisation of economy and trade had in fact accelerated the growth in 1990s. The

spinning spearheaded the growth during this period and man-made fibre industry in the

organised sector and decentralised weaving sector.

• Weaving and Knitting. Weaving and knitting converts cotton, manmade, or blended yarns

into woven or knitted fabrics. India’s weaving and knitting sector remains highly

fragmented, small-scale, and labor-intensive. This sector consists of about 3.9 million

handlooms, 380,000 “powerloom” enterprises that operate about 1.7 million looms, and just

137,000 looms in the various composite mills. “Powerlooms” are small firms, with an

average loom capacity of four to five owned by independent entrepreneurs or weavers.

Modern shuttleless looms account for less than 1 percent of loom capacity.

• Fabric Finishing. Fabric finishing (also referred to as processing), which includes dyeing,

printing, and other cloth preparation prior to the manufacture of clothing, is also dominated

by a large number of independent, small scale enterprises. Overall, about 2,300

processors are operating in India, including about 2,100 independent units and 200 units

that are integrated with spinning, weaving, or knitting units.

• Clothing. Apparel is produced by about 77,000 small-scale units classified as domestic

manufacturers, manufacturer exporters, and fabricators (subcontractors).

Growth of Textile Industry

• The textile industry in India covers a wide gamut of activities ranging from production of

raw material like cotton, jute, silk and wool to providing high value-added products such as

fabrics and garments to consumers.

• The industry uses a wide variety of fibres ranging from natural fibres like cotton, jute, silk

and wool to man made fibres like polyester, viscose, acrylic and multiple blends of such

fibres and filament yarn.

• The textile industry plays a significant role in Indian economy by providing direct

employment to an estimated 35 million people, by contributing 4 per cent of GDP and

accounting for 35 per cent of gross export earnings. The textile sector contributes 14 per

cent of the value-addition in the manufacturing sector.

• Textile exports during the period of April-February 2003-2004 amounted to $11,698.5

million as against $11,142.2 million during the same period in the previous year, showing

an increase of around 5 per cent.

• Estimates say that the textile sector might achieve about 15 to 18 per cent growth this

year following dismantling of MFA.

Size of Textile Industry in India

Textile industry plays a significant role in the economy. The Indian textile industry is one of

the largest and most important sectors in the economy in terms of output, foreign exchange

earnings and employment in India. It contributes 20 per cent of industrial production, 9 per

cent of excise collections, 18 per cent of employment in industrial sector, nearly 20 per cent

to the country’s total export earnings and 4 per cent ton the GDP. The sector employs nearly

35 million people and is the second highest employer in the country. The textile sector also

has a direct link with the rural economy and performance of major fibre crops and crafts such

as cotton, wool, silk, handicrafts and handlooms, which employ millions of farmers and crafts

persons in rural and semi-urban areas. It has been estimated that one out of every six

households in the country depends directly or indirectly on this sector.

Role Of Indian Textile Industry In The Economy

India has several advantages in the textile sector, including abundant availability of raw

material and labour. It is the second largest player in the world cotton trade. It has the largest

cotton acreage, of about nine million hectares and is the third largest producer of cotton fibre

in the world. It ranks fourth in terms of staple fibre production and fourth in polyester yarn

production. The textile industry is also labour intensive, thus India has an advantage.

• India is the third largest producer of cotton with the largest area under cotton cultivation in

the world. It has an edge in low cost cotton sourcing compared to other countries.

• Average wage rates in India are 50-60 per cent lower than that in developed countries,

thus enabling India to benefit from global outsourcing trends in labour intensive

businesses such as garments and home textiles.

• Design and fashion capabilities are key strengths that will enable Indian players to

strengthen their relationships with global retailers and score over their Chinese

competitors.

• Production facilities are available across the textile value chain, from spinning to garments

manufacturing. The industry is investing in technology and increasing its capacities which

should prove a major asset in the years to come.

• Large Indian players such as Arvind Mills, Welspun India, Alok Industries and Raymonds

have established themselves as 'quality producers' in the global market. This recognition

would further enable India to leverage its position among global retailers.

• India has gathered experience in terms of working with global brands and this should

benefit Indian vendors.

The key advantages of the Indian industry are

Government Initiatives

With a view to raise India's share in the global textiles trade to 10 per cent by 2015 (from the

current 3 per cent), the Ministry of Textiles proposes 50 new textile parks. Out of the 50, 30

have been already sanctioned by the government (with a cost of US$ 710 million). Set up

under the Scheme for Integrated Textile Parks (SITP), this initiative will not only make the

industry cost competitive, but will also enhance manufacturing capacity in the sector.

With a view to raise India's share in the global textiles trade to 10 per cent by 2015 (from the

current 3 per cent), the Ministry of Textiles proposes 50 new textile parks. Out of the 50, 30

have been already sanctioned by the government (with a cost of US$ 710 million). Set up

under the Scheme for Integrated Textile Parks (SITP), this initiative will not only make the

industry cost competitive, but will also enhance manufacturing capacity in the sector.

Apart from the above, a series of progressive measures have been planned to strengthen the

textile sector in India:

• Technology Mission on Cotton (TMC)

• Technology Upgradation fund Scheme (TUFS)

• Setting up of Apparel Training and Design Centres (ATDCs)

• 100 per cent Foreign Direct Investment (FDI) in the textile sector under automatic route.

• Setting up two design centres in Gujarat in collaboration with National Institute of Fashion

Technology.

• Setting up a Handloom Plaza in Ahmedabad with an estimated investment of US$ 24.6

million.

• Revival plans of the mills run by National Textiles Corporation (NTC). Already, for the

revival of 18 textile mills, US$ 2.21 million worth of machineries has been ordered for the

upgradation and modernisation of these mills.

• Setting up a handloom mall with an investment of US$ 24.6 million at Jehangir Mill in

Ahmedabad.

• Scrapping of the Textile Committee cess being collected from the textile and textile

machinery industry under the Textile Committee Act.

In a further bid to bolster the envisaged annual growth rate of 11 per cent, the Government

will also increase the TUF (Technology Upgradation Fund) from US$ 124 million in 2006-07

to US$ 211 million in 2007-08.

The Government of India has also included new schemes in the Annual Plan for 2007-08 to

providea boost to the textile sector.

Government Initiatives

These include schemes for Foreign Investment Promotion to attract foreign direct investment

in textiles, clothing and machinery; Brand Promotion on Public-Private Partnership (PPP)

approach to develop global acceptability of Indian apparel brands; Trade Facilitation Centres

for Indian image branding; Fashion Hubs for creation of permanent market place for the

benefit of Indian fashion industry; Common Compliance Code to encourage acceptability

among apparel buyers and Training Centres for Human Resource Development on Public

Private Partnership (PPP) mode.

In exports Cotton yarns, fabric, made ups etc made largest chunk with US$ 3.33 Billion or

26.5% in textiles category, and Ready Made garments (RMG)-cotton including accessories

made largest chunk with 4.67 Billion US $ or 37.1 % of total exports. Whereas, manmade

yarn and fabrics in textiles group and RMG–Man made fibers constituted second position in

the two categories, respectively. Carpets and woolen garments are other items exported from

India.

INDIAN TEXTILE INDUSTRY

Source: http://www.fibre2fashion.com/industry-article/2/104/indian-textile-industry-an-overview4.asp

Developed countries' exports declined

from 52.2% share in 1990 to 37.8 % in

2005. And that of developing countries

increased from 47.8% to 62.2 % in the

same period. In 2003 the exports figures

in percentage of the world trade in

Textiles Group (for select countries)

were:

In global scenario

The above chart clearly shows that export of world trade in textile group. Among world textile

group EU occupies 34.80% of export, next China at 15.90%, USA at 6.40%, Republic of

Korea at 6.00% Taipei, Ch at 5.50%, India and Japan at 3.80% respectively, Pakistan at

3.40%, turkey at 3.10% and Mexico at 1.20%.

In textile Scenario

In Clothing Sector the figures were as below

in 2007 in percentage of total experts

globally:

Source: http://www.fibre2fashion.com/industry-article/2/104/indian-textile-industry-an-overview4.asp

Textiles contributed 20% of India's exports to

about US $ 12.5 Billion. The Quota Countries

mainly USA, EU (15) and Canada constituted

Export Scenario:

70 % of total garment exports and 40% of India's textiles exports. In non-quota countries

UAE is the largest market with 7% of textile exports and 10% of garment exports from India

India’s Exports: In US $ Billion Year 2008-09

The above table clearly depicts the export of

readymade garments for the last five years.

In the year of 2004-2005 the value of export

of readymade garment is 395.23 and in the

year 2008-2009 the value is 8200.00. From

2004-2005 it started increasing and in the

year 2007-2008 it declines and again in the

year 2008-2009 it increases.

Indian Textile Industry – SWOT Analysis

• Indian Textile Industry is an Independent & Self-Reliant industry.

• Abundant Raw Material availability that helps industry to control costs and reduces the

lead-time across the operation.

• Availability of Low Cost and Skilled Manpower provides competitive advantage to industry.

• Availability of large varieties of cotton fiber and has a fast growing synthetic fiber industry.

• India has great advantage in Spinning Sector and has a presence in all process of

operation and value chain.

• India is one of the largest exporters of Yarn in international market and contributes around

25% share of the global trade in Cotton Yarn.

Strength

• The Apparel Industry is one of largest foreign revenue contributor and holds 12% of the

country's total export.

• Industry has large and diversified segments that provide wide variety of products.

• Growing Economy and Potential Domestic and International Market.

• Industry has Manufacturing Flexibility that helps to increase the productivity.

Weakness• Indian Textile Industry is highly Fragmented Industry.

• Industry is highly dependent on Cotton.

• Lower Productivity in various segments.

• There is Declining in Mill Segment.

• Lack of Technological Development that affect the productivity and other activities in whole

value chain.

• Infrastructural Bottlenecks and Efficiency such as, Transaction Time at Ports and

transportation Time.

• Unfavourable labour Laws.

• Lack of Trade Membership, which restrict to tap other potential market.

• Lacking to generate Economies of Scale.

• Higher Indirect Taxes, Power and Interest Rates.

• Growth rate of Domestic Textile Industry is 6-8% per annum.

• Large, Potential Domestic and International Market.

• Product development and Diversification to cater global needs.

• Elimination of Quota Restriction leads to greater Market Development.

• Market is gradually shifting towards Branded Ready-made Garment.

• Increased Disposable Income and Purchasing Power of Indian Customer opens New

Market Development.

• Emerging Retail Industry and Malls provide huge opportunities for the

• Apparel, Handicraft and other segments of the industry.

• Greater Investment and FDI opportunities are available.

Opportunity

Threats• Competition from other developing countries, especially China.

• Continuous Quality Improvement is need of the hour as there are different demand

patterns all over the world.

• Elimination of Quota system will lead to fluctuations in Export Demand.

• Threat for Traditional Market for Power loom and Hand loom Products and forcing them for

product diversification.

• International labour and Environmental Laws.

• To balance the demand and supply.

• To make balance between price and quality.

The Indian textile industry has a significant presence in the Indian economy as well as in the

international textile economy. Its contribution to the Indian economy is manifested in terms of

its contribution to the industrial production, employment generation and foreign exchange

earnings. The industry also contributes significantly to the world production of textile fibres

and yarns including jute. In the world textile scenario, it is the largest producer of jute, second

largest producer of silk, third largest producer of cotton and cellulosic fibre\yarn and fifth

largest producer of synthetic fibre\yarn. Textile Industry is providing one of the most basic

needs of people and the holds importance; maintaining sustained growth for improving quality

of life. The Government of India has also included new schemes in the Annual Plan for 2007-

08 to provide a boost to the textile sector. These include schemes for Foreign Investment

Promotion to attract foreign direct investment in textiles, clothing and machinery etc.

Conclusion

COMPANY PROFILE

Sarla Fabric Pvt Limited, established in 1994, is a part of Shahi Exports Group, one of the

largest garments Manufacturer and Exporter of India. Building upon its’ strength in state-of-

the-art fabric process house with a production capacity of 42 million meters per annum.

All kinds of Woven Fabrics like Poplin, Twill, Canvas, Cambric & Voile etc. weighing from

50 GSM to 500 GSM made of Cotton, Linen & Rayon blends and Stretch Fabrics are

processed to International standards. We process Georgette, Moss Crepe of Rayon and

Cotton Crepe. We print Reactive (Procion), Vat color discharge on reactive ground &

Pigments.

Sarla Fabric embarked upon a course of natural progression and entered into the fabric

manufacturing business in the year 2007. They have the in state-of-the-art weaving facility

with a capacity of 9 million meters per annum. The weaving plant is well equipped with the

latest technology of Air-jet Toyota looms; Beninger preparatory etc. & can weave all kind

of cotton grey fabric like Dobbies, Twills, Poplins & Yarn dyeds etc.

They supply the finished products to the world class buyers. Top five Buyers where they

supply our finished Products: 1) Wal-Mart, 2) Target, 3) GAP, 4) H&M, 5) Impulse etc.

• The Lab is approved by Wal-Mart, Target & GAP.

• Approved for (GOTS) Global Organic Textile Standard and (OE) Organic Exchange.

• Sarla Fabric Pvt. Limited is ISO 9001:2008 & ISO 14001:2004 certified Company.

Name of Machine Make Country of origin Used for Process

Gas Singe & Desizer Osthoff Germany Gas Singeing & Desizing

Continuous Bleaching Range Beninger Switzerland Scouring/Bleaching

Continuous Mercerising Range Beninger Switzerland Mercerising

Cold Pad-Batch Kusters Germany Dyeing

Pad-Dry Machine Beninger Switzerland Dyeing

Pad-Steam Range Beninger Switzerland Dyeing

Continuous Wash-Range Beninger Switzerland Washing/Soaping

Two Rotary Printing 12 Colour Laxmi India Printing

Rotary Printing 12 Colour Zimmer Austria Printing

Steamer/Ager Arioli Italy Print developing

Rotary Screen Engraver Luescher Germany Printing Screen Engraving

Two Sanforiser Ronson India Zero-Zero machine

One Stenter m/c Ilsung Korea Finishing

Two Stenters SM Econ India Finishing

Peaching m/c Lafer Switzerland Emerising/Peaching

Processing Machines

Name of Machine Make Country of origin Used for ProcessSixty Six Air Jet Looms Toyota Japan Weaving M/c

Direct Warping M/c Beninger Switzerland Yarn Warping

Sectional Warping M/c Prasanth Gammatex India Sectional Warping

Continuous Sizing M/c Beninger Switzerland Yarn Sizing

Name of Machine Make Country of origin Used for Process

Single Yarn Sizing Machine JYTYT machinery China Sizing

Automatic warping machine JYTYT machinery China Warping

Rapier Loom JYTYT machinery China Weaving

• 45 Air-Jet and Rapier looms with 8 colors weft insertion facilities out of this some are

double beam facilities with E-shading.

• 8 chamber imported stenter for finish, Drying as well as curing of dyed and printed goods.

• Imported Curing/ Polymerize machine for curing after Pigment print.

• We will install 1kg and 8kg yarn dyeing machine for sampling yardage as well as Desk

loom preparation.

Apart from Computerized & Continuous Machines (Benninger AG) In Dyeing we also have

Jet Dyeing Machines, Soft flow, Jigger & Winches. Our Pretreatment Deptt. has the capacity

of producing 1,10,000mtrs. of bleached fabric per day & that of Dyeing Deptt. is 80,000

mtrs. per day.

In Printing apart from Rotary Printing Machines we also have a range of After-Treatment

Machines e.g. Continuous Ager, Loop Ager, Star Ager, Polymerizes & Washing ranges. The

capacity of Printing Deptt. is 55,000mtrs. per day. The Finishing Deptt. has the capacity to

finish 120,000 m of fabric per day.

In pursuit of Perfection-Laboratory – Sarla Fabric Ltd. is equipped with an ultra modern

laboratory, equipped with advanced & globally acclaimed equipment. The laboratory has a

Gretag Macbeth Colour matching system and Datacolor Computer Color Matching

System, coupled with a Datacolor automatic dispenser to eliminate any human error.

Laboratory has a Mathis Padder with Dryer & Steamer - a replica of Pilot plant of Bulk

Dyeing Machines. The Dyeing recipe formulations are done at the lab. stage only & the

same recipe is transferred to Bulk. Lab to Bulk Co-relation is perfectly documented & remains

above 95% every time.

Proposed Machineries

For Exhaust Dyeing also the Lab has Datacolor Infra-Red Dyeing Equipment. Laboratory is

equipped with various Textile Testing Machines e.g. Tensile Strength Tester, Tear Strength

Tester, Abrasion Resistance & Pilling Resistance Tester. Shrinkage Test & Fabric Drape Test

& Color Fastness tests to various agencies e.g. Washing, Crocking; Light & Perspiration are

also done regularly. The Colour Management Group also handles the final product Shade

sorting & color related defects like listing & Center to Selvedge or Selvedge to Selvedge

problems etc. detection.

Despite all of the above SFPL is committed to sustain Environmental Balance through

conservation of water, energy and prevention of pollution. To achieve these following

activities is going on.

• We always insist to reduce the water consumption and recycle the waste water and power

saving as a control measure to save the natural resources,

• Reduce waste water by continual improvement in the process.

• To achieve the above object we have invested Rs 25 million in waste water recovery plant.

• Installed the wet scrubber to prevent air pollution through boiler chimney.

• We have an effective rain water harvesting system, which is not only helpful in recharging

the sub soil water but also helping in running ETP during the rainy season.

• We are maintaining greenery in our factory delicately.

• Implement ISO 14001:2004 (EMS) on 2010.

Employees

Great organizations are built by the synergy of a great team. In case of SFPL, the total

number of employees is around 770

It is the constant endeavour of the management of SFPL to ensure that our employees find

the organization a great place to work and wish to stay here forever.

Our people friendly approach is reflected in our organization’s culture which is marked by

transparency, team orientation and receptivity to new ideas.

SFPL is not only committed towards maintaining a safe and healthy work environment inside

the organization but also dedicated to the cause of Corporate Social Responsibility, whereby

the company regularly takes initiatives that are not directly linked to its business.

SFPL is an equal opportunity employer, with no discrimination of any sort e.g., with regards to

region, caste, religion, gender etc. We do not employ child labour and abide by all statutory

provisions.

Work-Culture& Social Commitments

• Faith in core competence in textile business.

• Customer orientation for a quick and positive response to the customer's need.

• Production of the best quality of premium market segments through TQM and zero defect

implementation.

• Global orientation targeting at least 20-25% production for export.

• Timely delivery with consistent standards.

• Productive approach to the benefits of R&D and modern technology.

• Targeting excellence through continuous functional developments and innovations.

• Unflinching faith in individual's potential his growth and respect for human values.

• Developing relationship for benefit with business partners and dealers.

• Believing that trust is the foundation for durable relationship between the employer and

employee.

• Acceptance of change as a way of organizational growth.

GROUP PHILOSOPHY

• Quality should be built into company's products to not only meet customer requirements

continuously but also exceed them. The company shall achieve this through an interface

with the market place, access to state of the art technology, R&D process development

and adoption of innovative manufacturing and marketing strategies.

• The quality policy shall be implemented through a network of systems and procedures

understood and followed throughout the company.

• The quality policy shall be integrated with the company's main objectives :

1. To remain market leader in the quality.

2. Increase market share with focus on niche segments.

3. Improved productivity.

4. Cost reduction.

5. Reduction in percentage of seconds.

The management shall be committed to provide capital and human resources to achieve the

above objectives. A Company wide quality culture shall be created through training and

motivation of people at all levels of organization.

GROUP QUALITY POLICY

ORGANIZATIONAL STRUCTURE

CHAPTER II

WORK PROCESSES

Process flow

Weaving

Finishing

System ModuleActivity

Order development module-

Objective:-

To access activities involved in development of an order and to record orders

from developing stage.

Activity:-

1. Lab dip / design sample receiving from party.

2. Lab dip / design preparation.

3. Lab dip / design preparation sent to party for approval.

4. Approval confirmation / rejection from party.

5. Recording receive data for approval labdip.

6. Recording data related to shrinkage, design coverage, shade group and other technical

attributes.

7. Introducing process flows to execute the order.

Department involved:-

Laboratory, design

Implication:-

An order is initiated far before it is introduced in the system, an order begins

with lab dip/ design development stage and for execution of an order in an improved way if is

preferable to start recording activities of an order from beginning. Receipt of an order

depends upon processing of lab dip, how often we are successful in meeting requirement

standards of our customers / buyers. Recording of data related of data to this development

will help management to measure performance of our development process. Through

analysis of this data management can identify areas of improvement and work on it and

result there of.

Benefits:-

Production / PPC

• Production /PPC people can capitalize on experience of developing departments.

Lab

• Will help lab to generate recipe of dyed and chemical required for execution of an order.

Costing

• To determine of an order.

• Cost of an order will recorded from right stage.

Marketing

• Providing basis for arriving at job rate, commercial shrinkage and other technical

attributes.

• Process flow will help to accept a feasible due date to complete the under.

• Through analysis of received designs / lab dip, trends in market can be judged.

• Parties / customer appraisal analysis.

Top management

• Management can judge performance of departments involved in development.

• Identify areas of improvement.

PROCESS FLOW

Creating repeatable business processes is an important part of building and running an

effective organization. Well-designed and documented business processes are critical for the

success of business activities, whether the company is a small two- or three-person business

or a large corporation with hundreds of thousands of employees. Businesses that don't take

the time and care to create repeatable processes run the risk of quality and consistency

issues.

SARLA FABRIC PVT. LTD. is buying most of the raw material from Vardhman Group,

Nahar Group, Aditya Birla Group, Trident, and some of the raw material mainly of O.E. yarn of

coarse count from other suppliers.

• 100% cotton yarns for warp, weft and catch cord.

• Polyester cotton blended yarns.

• Cotton Lycra blended yarns.

• Polyester filament yarns for leno selvedge.

• Open end yarn

• Compact yarn

• Eli yarn

RAW MATERIAL

Yarn supplier13. VTM Ludhiana

14. Shivatex

15. Vaibhav

16. Nitin spinners

17. Shrivishnu

18. Sandhya

19. Rajapalayam

20. Aruntex

21. S. Lalitha

22. Thanjavar

23. Rajapa

1. Auro Spinning Mills Baddi

2. Arihant Spinning Mill Malerkotla

3. V.S.G.M. 100% E.O.U. Baddi

4. Arist Spinning Mills Baddi

5. V.M.T. Spinning Co.

6. Pratap Industries Ltd. (7s, 10s, 14s, 16s, O.E.)

7. Fertichem Cotspin Ltd. (7s, 10s, 14s, 1s, O.E.)

8. Indo Rama Industries Ltd. (Polyester Yarn)

9. Glofame Spinning.

10. Nahar Group

11. Arti international ludhiana

12. Dhar Industries

WEAVING DEPARTMENT

PROCESS FLOW IN PREPARATORY DEPARTMENT

Warping

One warper and one creel boy per machine per shift.

Yarn trolley man two per shit.

Sizing

One sizer and one back sizer per machine per shit.

Beam carrier two per shift.

Mixing man two per shit.

Drawing in section

One drawer and one reacher per stand per shift.

Rewinding section

Two rewinder per shift

Floor cleaner

Morning shift - 2

Evening shift - 1

Night shift - 1

Maintenance

One fitter per shift.

WORK ALLOCATION

Warping

Warping is a process of making warper's beam of specified number of ends,

pattern and width from uniform cones/cheeses of specified count. All the ends in sheet should

wound at almost uniform tension. The density of wound yarn beam should be uniform across

the width & from start to end of winding sheet. This beam further goes for sizing.

AMBIENT CONDITIONS IN WARPING DEPARTMENT

Temperature Range 27 C to 32 C

R.H. 60% to 66%

Types Of Warping Processes

Warping is divided into two types:-

a. Direct warping

b. Sectional warping

Direct Warping

It consists of preparing number of full width warping beam with required length,

called as one set. The total no of ends warped in number's of beam depending on the

capacity of creel. These all beams of one set put together on sizing creel for the sizing

process, which result in formation of weaver's beam.

Use Of Direct Warping

• Direct warping is used for the prepare a set of one color, either grey or dyed yarn.

• To prepare large set length i.e. to take large length of yarn in each warping beams of the

set & prepared number of small length sized beam from this set which reduce the warping

and sizing machine down time.

• Multi-color warps with complicated patterns can be formed successfully on this type. It

gives one set so less inventory and handling of beams is there.

Sectional Warping

If forms section by section on to the section drum of specified no of ends and

width. After completion of these sections, drum is unwound on the warper's beam that is then

sent to the sizing department.

Use Of Sectional Warping

Multicolored warp with complicated pattern like checks and strives etc. can be successfully

prepared. Only one beam is needed in one set, so less inventory & handling of beam is

need.

WARPING MACHINES

Preparatory department has one direct warping machine.

1. Direct warping machines

Benniger Wpg. M/c (Ben- Direct 1000).

Direct warping machine

BENNINGER WARPING MACHINE BEN-DIRECT 1000

MAKE :- Ben-direct 1000

Benninger uzwill schwetz.

Benninger co. ltd. uzwill Germany

MODEL :- 2007

SPEED :-

Maximum running speed - 1200 mpm

Normal running speed - it depends on the count of yarn

Yarn count Running speed

7s, 10, 14s, 16, 20s 800 m.p.m.

2/30s, 2/40s, 2/20s 800 m.p.m.

40s, 50s, 60s and above 600 m.p.m.

• Crawl speed (inching) 20 mpm

• Type of creel V creel

• Creel capacity 704

• Weight of a cone 1.5-2.5 kg

• Total guide bars 88

• Overhead cleaning By suction pipes

• Machine cleaning By compressor air.

• Brake system Hydraulic braking system

(Braking pressure 5.8 bar)

Direct drive from motor

positively driven from spindle and belt)

• M/c height 1800mm

• M/c Width useful width+1900mm

• M/c Weight 3500kg

• M/c Length 2120mm

• Air pressure 8-5 Bar

• Air consumption 3 m3/n at 5-bar

• Ambient Temperature 10-40 deg centigrade

• M/c to Creel Distance 4000mm

• Over all yarn tension 450 N

• Normal efficiency 94%

• Breaking Moment 1600Nm

• Sound Level less than 80 dB normal

Density in g/dm3 =warp length in m * No. of ends * dtex * 400

Warp Width*(D²–d²) *3.14

WARPER’S BEAM : Beam can be classified in different types-

1. Beam with serrated cones for centering and driven shape “c”

2. solid flange

3. Ribbed flange

4. Dyeing beam

Beam diameter

Maximum Minimum Empty(barrel) Weight

Other beam-1000-1016mm 800mm 300mm 1250kg(full beam)

Dyeing beam-520mm 300mm 150mm 800kg (800mm dia.)

Beam length 1800 mm

Maximum breaking torque 8500 Nm/flange

Creel measurements

Height between two packages 27.2 cms

Horizontal distance 24.5 cms

Fluff removal Internal blower

Yarn Passage

Cone balloon breaker tension bars yarn stop motion zig-zag comb measuring

roller press roller warper's beam.

Drive To Various Parts

• To warpers's beam

Main motor pulley weaver's beam (attached to pulley)

There is clamping and declamping device attached to pulley which get the drives through

motors attached on each side. Apart from this there is presser roll which is given drive by

hydraulic system. This roller provides pressure to beam essential for proper winding. Friction

drive is not given as it may damage the yarn.

• To comb

Motor through chain to shaft comb attached on shaft.

The comb has a zig zag shape (9 ends, 13 ends) and it moves to and fro as well as up and

down. The main function of the comb is proper beam formation i.e. close packing and also

separation of threads. To and fro movement ensures the close packing of ends while up and

down movement is to evade reed damage by friction.

Comb is driven by three motors one for to and fro motion, one for up and down and third one

for controlling the comb dent density.

• Pre tension settings –

Here setting of tension rod depth is done through scale on the creel. Screw is set at the

required scale and then the shaft containing tension rod is engaged to the screw and then

the shaft containing tension rod is engaged to the screw and then the machine runs. The

tension rods are actuated mechanically It is actuated 3 sec after the machine starts.

Tension Kept For Different Counts

COUNT (Ne) PRETENSION SETTING (mm)

14s K, 16s K, 20s K 10-20

40s C, 50s C, 60 C 0-2

2/40s C, 2/60s C 7-11

Other Imp. Parts

• Yarn stop motion - this machine have electronic (capacitance based) type of yarn stop

motion. It actuated after 5 sec of machine start running.

• Pressure bar - to maintain tension in the yarn ends when the machine stops and during

running it releases its pressure.

• Yarn cutter - after finishing warping the ends are cut by a running yarn cutter which moves

horizontally in a slot.

• Fluff removal - by internal blower system.

• Microprocessor control and display system.

Creeling time :-

Yarn passed through pretension rods, drop wire time taken is 30 minutes Time for combing is

10 minutes so total time taken in creeling is 50 minutes.

Features

• Advanced microprocessor than Ben-1000 and touch screen type of control panel and

display screen.

• Monitor on the creel front to show the exact position of the broken end otherwise total no.

of ends in the creel should be checked.

• Yarn passage and drive system same as Ben-dir 1000.

• Yarn stop motion is electronic with sensors.

• Pre tensioner settings are done on computer.

• Number of ends fed in the computer = no. of end stop motions.

• Advanced microprocessor display mechanism.

• Highly efficient brake system (with very small time). So the broken end doesn't wind on the

beam.

• Lay panel.

Warper's Check Report

The warper working on the beam is required to fill the report, which includes the data like

beam no., warper's name, no. of cones, length and the record of no. of breakage of each

kind.

Reasons Of End Breakage

End breakage may occur due to following reasons:-

• Spinning faults :- weak places, soft places, slubs, foreign matter (plastic/hair)

• Winding faults: - slough off, cut cone, entanglement, bad winding.

• Warping faults: - faulty stop motions, faulty thread passage, entanglement.

• Miscellaneous faults: - cone finish, others.

• According to norms breakage in warping should not be more than 0.2 breaks per 400

ends per 1000 m.

Rewinding

Bottom cones are rewound to get full cones and can be used in selvedge purpose of other.

One rewinding machines (drum driven) with over head blowing/cleaning system.

Rewinding m/c

Make RJK

No. of spindles 32 (16 on each sides)

Tensioner spring type

Speed 500-1000 rpm

Stop Motion electrical type

Passage of yarn through m/c :-

Creel guide tensioner stop motion winding drum package

Sizing

Object of sizing is to increase weaveabilty of warp yarns by improving their abrasion

resistance and strength which plays major role during shed formation at loom.

Good sizing depends upon three very import factors i.e.

• Size paste composition

• Method of preparation

• Its application to the warp yarns

The sizing paste should have film forming property on the yarn which increases its strength,

decreases its abrasion resistance; is still flexible on drying and which can be easily washed

out (desized).

Size Preparation

Size is prepared at the first floor and transferred to machine with the help of pipes. Size

preparation includes following steps -

Pre-mixer cooking vessel storage vessel sizing machines (through

pipes)

1. Pre-mixer - First all the chemicals are mixed here with the help of stirrer for 5 - 10 min.

Then mixture is transferred to cooking vessels through pipes. There is one premixer for all

cooking vessels. It has capacity of 1595 liters.

Bottom 5" have capacity of 110 Litre then capacity/inch is 29 Litre .

2. Cooking vessel - There are 2 cooking vessels each with a max.Capacity of 1200 litre

mfd by Karandas Becharadas & Sons (Ahamedabad). Cooking is done through direct and

indirect steam for 45 minutes. The conditions inside cooker are :

Pressure = 2.5-3 kg

Temperature = 130-1350C

Capacity: bottom 5" is of 90 litre then 27 litre per inch.

3. Storage vessel - From cooking vessel size is transferred to storage vessel where it is

stored at the temperature of 85-90 C and with continuous stirring for further transfer to

machine according to the requirements. Supervisor checks the viscosity and solid content

before transferring the prepared size to machine.

Size Ingredients

• Maize starch :- It is an adhesive and exhibits all the properties of native starch. It is non

foaming.

• P.V.A. Evanol: - Better binder and suitable in case of P/C blends as it has affinity for

polyester also.

• Sico-12:- It is also an acrylic binder generally used for finer count Apart from these

antistatic agents, antifungal agents are also used. Antistatic agents are used for P/C

blended yarns and antifungal used if the beam is to be kept for longer duration.

Sizing Machines

Benninger Sizing Machine

Made = 2007

Capacity = 16 beams with 1 sectional beam

Size boxes = 2 (if cover factor is<50 than use only one size box

otherwise 2)

Squeeze rolls = 2 in each size box

Size rolls = 2 in each size box

Emerson roll = 2 in each size box

Feed roll = 2

Maximum running speed = 1235 mpm

Operative running speed = 80 mpm

Drying cylinders = 4+4+2+2+2=14

Teflon coated cylinders = 4+4+2=10

Cylinder's dia. = 800 mm

Cylinder's length = 2000 mm

Beam width = 1800 mm or 70.8"

Barrel dia. = 178 mm

Cylinder temperature for zone 1= 1450C

For zone 2= 145 0C

For Zone 3 = 1350C

For Zone 4 = 1350C

For Zone 5 = 1350C

It is always recommended to keep temperature of each zone lesser by 200C

Size box temperature: 900C

Beam stretch: 0.5-0.7/100m (fine)

0.8-1/100m (coarse)

Beam pressure: 1710 N (14 X…..gm/m)

Creel tension: 800 N (5 X…..gm/m)

Leasing tension: 11.5 X……gm/m

Winding tension 16 X……gm/m

Braking motion: Pneumatic auto control

Moisture regain: 7 (cotton), 4 (polyester/cotton)

Size level control: automatic

Some Important Points

• Single dip single nip system, hence more chances of yarn being left unsized.

• Though it has system for sectional beam but generally not preferred as single dip doesn't

give better pick up thereby increasing the chances of ball formation during weaving.

• All the drying cylinders are Teflon coated except the last two, as yarn dries completely

before reaching the last two cylinders.

• Brake is applied on the creel (beam) through belts.

• There is stretch encoder at feed roll, size roll, dryer motor, drag roll motor (i.e. Headstock)

and winder motor, which calculates the speed in each zone thereby giving stretch value in

each zone (generally 0.1-0.2%).

DRAWING IN

4500 ends are drawn/shift/2 operative for plain sorts.

PASSAGE

Beam –guide bar- comb -warp stop pin- steel heald wire- profile reed - comb fixed with

parallel to heald.

HEALD WIRE SPECIFICATION

1.2 –Thin for fine count

1.8 –Thick for coarse count

If machine condition will be good then, it can be used till 15-20 years.

MATERIAL USED

Steel-tempered stainless steel

REED

Profile reed – Mayur (left hand side greater width and RHS Smaller width)

-Takayama-(same width)

DROP PIN

Type- Closed type drop pin

Material used-Copper

TYPE-YKC-11122

SIZE- 0.3*11*165

MANUFACTURER-

Yosinaka

Requirement For Air jet Loom

1.Warp beam and weft packages.

2.Maintained air pressure.

3.A pre-measuring device

4.A short quick air blast with nozzles to guide the weft.

5.A suction device at the receiving end.

6 .A take up & let off combination which is properly controlled.

7.Warp stop & weft stop devices.

8.A dobby (+ve or -ve) to lift the heald frames.

9.Proper temple to grip the fabric.

COLOUR SPECIFICATION :- White-Fine count (1.2),Brown-Coarse count (1.8)

LOOM SHED :- Here only one loom shed having a total of 54 looms. Looms are air jet

Toyota JAT 710.

Loom no. 1-48 are cam shedding & loom no.49-54 are E-Shedding.

Main Features Of Air Jet Looms

1. The loom is compact without usual race board or bobbin change mechanism.

2. The m/c is provided with buttons for inching & reversing.

3. Cloth roll can be doffed while the m/c is running.

4. Microprocessor (information board) to indicate, stops, efficiency, reason of stop, no of

picks / min., loom speed, production in meters, loom angular motion, channel settings,

various loom timings.

5. 4 colors lamp indication system to indicate reason of m/c stoppage.Lamp color White Red Green YellowCondition Stop switch pressed-

Beam doffing,optical safety sensor,RH cover sensor

Warp and waste selvedge stop

Weft stop Leno selvedge,Electrical problem

6. Cam shedding motion to raise and lower heald frames.

7. Drum pool system to wind 1 pick length extra over it.

8. Leno selvedge motion to bind up the fabric & prevent its unwinding.

9. Take up in some m/c is electronic otherwise a combination of 2 gears decide take up

speed.

10. Let off is electronically controlled and is provided with a servo motor.

11. Easing motion is provided in some looms to compensate for the difference in tension

during open and closed shed.

12. The range of pick density is 20 to 200 but used range is 50-140 .

13. It contains a completely enclosed, 3 phase induction motor with the built in D.C. single

plate excitation brake.

Study Of Jat710 Loom

Shedding Mechanism:

In 1 to 48 looms has + ve shedding mechanism by cam and 49 to 54 looms are-Shedding

(electronic shedding)

Weft insertion

In air jet looms pick is inserted by the compressed air pressure and requires measuring and

storage control devices. To ensure of smooth picking, the required weft for the next pick is

wound in advance on prewinder. While the loom is running, the weft of corresponding length

of one pick is supplied to FDP & storage is controlled in the FDP.

One pick length of weft is measured by releasing or hooking solenoid pin electrically. There

are two timings, one is for the first pick (at the start) & other is for running looms.

Nozzles In weft Insertion

• Tandem nozzle : provide yarn to main nozzle

• Main nozzle provides drag for pick insertion.

• Sub nozzle maintains the drag.

• Stretch nozzle keeps pick straight and stretched.

Weft package- accumulator(measuring drum)-tandem nozzle-main nozzle-sub nozzles

stretch nozzle

Selvedge Formation

It has full leno selvedge on both sides. Discs of leno assembly rotate once in every two picks.

Leno yarn used is 80 den. Polyester filament yarn to give a strong and fine selvedge.

Weft Stop Motion

Two electrically controlled weft stop feelers Wf1 & Wf2 are set on right side of

the loom. The distance between them is 125 mm. wf1 puts check on short pick and wf2 on

long pick. Std. Sensitivity of feelers-wf1-4 & wf2-8

Catch Cord

Picks on right side are interwoven with catch cord mechanism which gives smooth selvedge

and avoids tucking in of the right side picks into the fabric. 2/40s yarn is generally used and

is brought wpg. dept. as bottoms.

Weft cutting motion

Weft is cut on either side by a pair of scissors. On left side it cuts the continuous

when it's been laid. On right hand side it cuts the catch cord to the waste bin.LH

cutter timing-25-30 deg

Beating up :-

Done by the reed which is of tunnel type (profile reed) in crank angle 340 deg

Take Up Motion:-

Mechanical type of + ve take up motion where a pick change wheel is changed

according to the requirement.

Single beam let-off motion:-

An electronically controlled let-off motion detects the warp tension applied to tension

roller with load cell(set at the right side of the m/c),and then the difference between

the detected tension and the pre-set tension is calculated on the computer in order to

control the speed of the servo motor.

Positiveeasing motion

It correct the warp tension difference caused at shed opening and closing, by tension

roller adjustment positively. It is used for spun yarn weaving.

Easing amount:

distance b/w the positions (shed closing &opening time) of tension roller.

Negative Easing Motion:

It correct the warp tension difference caused shed opening and shed closing by

negative adjusting tension roller with buffer spring. It is used for filament yarn

weaving.

Toyota Loom Cycle

• pin = 80-200

• Ist = 90-200

• Fill first = 90-200

• Main = 90-176

• Ist = 100

• Fill first = 100

• Aux. = 94-170

• Main Ist = 104

• Fill Ist = 104

• sub #1 = 90-170

#2 = 100-180

#3 = 120-200

#4 = 140-220

#5 = 160-250

• Shed opening = 60-65

• Shed crossing = 320

• Pick arrival = 240

Toyota Jat 710 Dimensions

Size = 398cm * 200cm * 165cm

Net weight = 2850 kg

Gross weight = 3000 kg

JAT 710 SALIENT FEATURES

• Single back rest

• Positive shedding device, staubli with hydraulic leveling.

• Lip in the reed system :good for filling stops

good for corrugation/stop mark.

• Speed up to 1200 rpm (max.)

• Suitable for fine to coarse type of fabrics. [cover factor up to … in plain]

• Automatic jet control [pick arrival steady]

• Single hole nozzle (relay), 3 ht, 20 nozzle angle.

• Mechanical take up having large range of pick density.

• + ve let off, electronically controlled.

• + ve easing motion.

• Electrical warp stop motion with six serrated bars.

• Max. 6 frame designs can be woven in cam shedding and maximum 12 frame designs can

be woven in e-shedding

• Suitable for basic weave.

It is a modern high speed weaving m/c with an innovative system of weft insertion via air

nozzle in order to provide drastically improved productivity, saved labour & improved working

environment.

The air which is expelled by the main nozzle during its movement extrains the weft & drags it

through the warp sheet

Maintenance Schedule

JAT710 LOOMS

Monthly

• Cam box oil level

• Oil filter cleaning

• Working of central lubrication system

Three monthly

• Shock absorbed step change.

• Main cuter & selvedge cutter working.

• Cloth pressure roll rubber strip condition checked.

• R.H.S. planetary shaft play.

Yearly

• Take up motion full maintained.

• Shedding cam lever single roller double roller alignment

• main cutter selvedge drive checked

• Grease pipe line checked.

• Air filters condition.

Two yearly

• Top lever fully maintained.

• Pneumatic maintenance included all solenoid valve cleaning relay nozzle condition

direction & height checked& adjusted, pipe condition checked.

FOLDING DEPARTMENT

The main function of this department is fabric inspection and folding of rolling of fabric.

PROCEDURE

Cloth- Inspection machine – Folding machine – grading packing (bale formation )

Mending (reworking)

VARIOUS INSPECTION SYSTEM

• 10 points system (Japanese system).

• 4 Point system (America system).

Here the system used is 4 point. IN this system the faults are catalogued on the basis of fault

length as shown below.

0-3 inches- 1 point

3-6 inches- 2 point

6-9 inches- 3 points

9 inches and above 4 points

Hence according to the length of the faulted each is assigned respective points. A total o f38

points per 100 m of cloths are acceptable. The piece with more than 18 points per 100 m is

rejected. The faults with 4 points are considered as major damage and that with single points

are considered as minor damages. S in 100 of cloth 4 major and 22 minor damages are the

acceptance limit beyond which the piece is rejected.

GRADING

Here the fabric is graded according to the fault in the fabric.

a. Fresh piece

b. Domestic

c. Rejection

d. Cut piece, rags and chindi

Machine In Folding

a. Inspection machines- there are total 9 inspection machines for The fabric inspection,

Manufacture is Almac. The speed of the inspection is kept 20-25 mpm.

b. Folding or flatting machines- There are 2 folding machines used for forming the bale of

the fabric.

c. Rolling machine- there is one rolling machine for forming the roll of the cloth

d. Bale pressing machine- There are 2 bale pressing machine for pressing the bale.

e. Mending table- There mending tables for reworking i.e. for mending the damages if

possible.

Faults Noted In Folding

• Minor faults- this includes slub, stains and contamination

• Major faults- this includes the faults like bent pick, double pick, thick place stain mark, oily

weft

MendableDamages

The damages which could be reworked include pick, snarling, ball formation and double

ends.

After packing most of the fabric is then send for dyeing and finishing in AURO TEXTILE

Quality Assurance (R& D Department)

The work of R&D department is research and development of processes for controlled and

better efficiency and quality of weaving and also to check the quality of the raw material and

the processes.

The Main Function Of The Department

•Research

•Selection of raw material

•Process control

•Process development

•Product testing

•Quality assurances

•Specification tests

InstrumentsUsed In R & D Lab

1. Tension meter- it is used to study warp tension during warping beam tension on loom.

Standard tension is l cN/tex.

2. Digital thread counter (Make - paramount) – It is used for counting EPI & PPI.

3. Weighing scale- There are two weighing scales

i) Make- Atco

Capacity- 2.4 kg

ii) Make- Ohaus

Capacity- 210 g

4. Circular cutter- It is used for measuring the GSM of the fabric.

5. Stirrer- It is used for stirring the solution for checking the viscosity.

6. Tachometer- It is used for measuring rpm.

7. Shore hardness tester- It is used to check the hardness of cone and cheese.

8. Yarn appearance tester- Make is Kamal Metal Ltd. It is used for checking yarn

appearance

9. Automatic twist tester- It is used to determine the twist (or TPI) of to yarn.

7. Single yarn strength tester- It is used to measure the strength of the single yarn.

8. Besslay balance- Make is paramount. It is used to check the count of the yarn.

9. Moisturemeter- It is used to measure the solid content percentage of the material.

10. Tearing strength tester- It is used to measure the tearing strength of the fabric in both

weft and warp direction. The sample to be tested is cut with template of came size and

the mounted between the jaws. After release of the quadrant scale the reading is noted a

soon as cloth tears completely.

11. Lea strength tester- It is used to measure the lea strength. First the lea of 120 yards is

made, weighed and then the breaking load id measured with the help of the instrument.

Also the CSP of the lea could be determined with the help of the formula.

12. CSP =avg. actual count* avg. actual strength.

13. Refractometer- It is used the solid content in sizing/ other sizing chemicals

Processing Department

The processing department provides fully processed (dyed or printed) fabric after

undergoing the finishing treatment. It consists of the following processes:

• Desizing & Scouring

• Bleaching

• Mercerising

• Dyeing

• Printing

• Finishing

PROCESS FLOW IN PROCESSING DEPARTMENT

Singeing And Desizing

Usually an emulsifying agent is added to the sizing mixture to facilitate its subsequent

removal from the cloth. It is necessary to remove the size (i.e. to desize) from the cloth;

otherwise the hydrophobicity of the wax and the tallow hinder the subsequent dyeing and

printing processes. Wax and tallow are removed during scouring while the starch is removed

during desizing. Thus desizing is the term usually restricted to the process of removal of

starch (of the size) from the cloth.

Chemically, starch is poly α-glucopyranose in which straight chain (amylose) and branched

chain (amylopectins) polymers are present. Both the constituents of starch are insoluble in

water, but they can be solubilised by hydrolysis of these long chain compounds to shorter

ones. Thus under suitable conditions starch ca be progressively hydrolysed to the following

stages:

STARCH (insoluble) → DEXTRIN (insoluble) → SOLUBLE DEXTRIN (soluble) →

MALTOSE (soluble)→ α-GLUCOSE (soluble).

The main purpose of scouring cotton fabric is to remove natural as well as added impurities

of essentially hydrophobic character as completely as possible and leave the fabric in a

highly absorptive condition without undergoing physical or chemical damage significantly and

also to make the goods suitable for removing the natural colouring matter of cotton during the

subsequent bleaching process. This process consists in circulating hot alkaline liquors,

usually under pressure through a regularly packed column of of desized fabric for 8 - 24

hours.

METHODS OF DESIZING

The two types of desizing methods practised in Sarla Fabric Pvt. Ltd. are:

• Enzymatic desizing

• Oxidative desizing

Machine Used: Osthoff, Germany.

Model: VP99

EnzymaticDesizing

Enzymes liquefy starch in enzymatic desizing process. Enzymes are fairly sensitive to

temperature changes from the optimum. Bacterial desizing agents are active over a wider

temperature range and have certain other advantages, like tolerance of variation in pH.

Enzymes suffer from one disadvantage that if the conditions of temperature and pH are not

favourable, their desizing activity is destroyed. An outstanding feature of enzyme desizing is

the specific nature of the enzyme action.

In enzymatic desizing, the following auxiliaries are used:

• PHC → Enzyme

•ANTOX → Chelating Agent

•XNI → Stain Remover

GLM Speed (m/min)

Trough Temperature

(ºC)

Dwell Time (sec)

Batching Pressure

(bar)

Batching Time (hrs)

<100 90-100 65 16 2.5 8-10

100-200 80 65 19 2-2.5 8-10

200-300 70-80 65 20 2-2.5 8-12

300-400 70-75 70 21 1.5-2 10-12

>400 70 70 21 1.5-2 10-12

Oxidative Desizing

In the oxidative desizing, hydrogen peroxide is used as the desizing agent. In oxidative

desizing the starch is oxidised and this process is also known as grey chemicking.

In oxidative desizing, the following chemicals are used:

•H2O2 → Desizing Agent

•ANTOX → Chelating Agent

•Hostapol MRN → Wetting Agent

•SIFA M → Stabiliser

•SPS → Oxidising Agent

•Caustic → Scouring/Maintain pH

GLM Speed (m/min)

Trough Temperature

(ºC)

Dwell Time (sec)

Batching Pressure (bar)

Batching Time (hrs)

<100 90-100 RT 16 2.5 24100-200 80 RT 19 2-2.5 24200-300 70-80 RT 20 2-2.5 24

300-400>400

FLOW OF MATERIAL

• Hydrogen peroxide is a universal bleaching agent and is used extensively for the

bleaching of cotton materials. The advantages in its use are:

• It can be employed for bleaching fibres like wool, silk and jute also;

• It requires less manipulation of fabric and hence less labour;

• The loss in weight in bleaching is less than that with hypochlorite bleaching;

• Less water is required with peroxide bleaching and there is no need for souring after

bleaching;

• Peroxide bleached goods are more absorbent than hypochlorite bleached goods;

• After yellowing of white goods bleached with peroxide is less than with hypochlorite

bleached goods;

• Peroxide bleaching is safer in regard to chemical degradation and

• Continuous scouring and bleaching in one operation is possible by employing peroxide.

Machine Used: BENNINGER

Model: AG CH - 9240

RECIPE

H2O2: 15 ml/kg

ANTOX: 4 ml/kg

MRZ: 4 ml/kg

ZMIN: 7.5 ml/kg

NaOH: 10 ml/kg

SPECIFICATIONS

Speed: 50 m/min

Injecta: 400 kg/hr

IMPT. Pressure: 0.55 kN

Steamer Time: 6 min

PROCEDURE• All organic material will be placed at specified area at the time of receiving. • Clean the machine as per guideline.

BLEACHING

CBR

1) Take fresh water in all washing compartments and Impecta and clean. Drain the water and

again take fresh water for production.

2) As we are using all chemicals, which are GOTS certified, same chemicals can be used for

GOTS.

3) Guide rolls at entry points must be cleaned with hot water.

List Of Certified Chemicals For Gots/Organic Cotton

Hydrogen peroxide

Caustic

Wetting agent : Hostapol MRZ Liq, Cottoclarin BL

Sequestering : SIRRIX 2UDI.IN Liq Verolan NFE, Securon 28 IN

Stabilizer : Stabilizer SUF.IN, Ruco-stab OKM, Stabilol ZM.IN

Acetic Acid

• All the organic material should be on batches only, not on pallet or polyethene.

• Cover all batches with polyethene and seal with green tape.

• After Osthoff, organic material should be rotated on specified rotating station only.

• Organic material will not be processed on any machine with normal fabric.

Sr No. Quality Recipe

1 Full White

H2O2 :35 ml/kg Chelating Agent( ANTOX) :1.5 ml/kg Wetting Agent (MRN): 2.5 ml/kg Stabilizer(SIFAM) : 9.0 ml/kg NaOH : 15/480Be

2 Full White (Bottom Weight )

H2O2 :40 ml/kg Chelating Agent( ANTOX) :2.5 ml/kg Wetting Agent (MRN): 4.0 ml/kg Stabilizer(SIFAM) : 12.0 ml/kg NaOH : 27/480Be

3RFD of Cotton/ Voil & Camb

(70-130 glm )

H2O2 :15 ml/kg Chelating Agent( ANTOX) :1.5ml/kg Wetting Agent (MRN): 5.0 ml/kg Stabilizer(SIFAM) : 6.0 ml/kg NaOH : 16/480Be

4 RFD of Poplin (140-200 glm )

H2O2 :22 ml/kg Chelating Agent( ANTOX) :2.5ml/kg Wetting Agent (MRN): 5.0ml/kg Stabilizer(SIFAM) : 8 ml/kg NaOH : 22/480Be

5RFD of Heavy Weight Fabric

(140-200 glm )

H2O2 :35 ml/kg Chelating Agent( ANTOX) :2.0 ml/kg Wetting Agent (MRN): 4.0ml/kg Stabilizer(SIFAM) : 10.0 ml/kg NaOH : 25/480Be

6 Scouring of Cotton VoilWetting Agent :5ml/kgChelating Agent (ANTOX) – 2 ml/kg NaOH : 22.5/480Be

7Scouring of 60s Cambric &

slub

Wettin Agent :3.5ml/kg Chelating Agent (ANTOX) : 2 ml/kg NaOH : 30/480Be

8 Scouring of PoplinWettin Agent :4.0gpl Chelating Agent (ANTOX) : 2 ml/kg NaOH : 40/480Be

RECIPE OF CBR MACHINE FOR DIFFERENT QUALITIES

Mercerization

Mercerisation is “the process of subjecting a vegetable fibre to the action of a fairly

concentrated solution of a strong base so as to produce great swelling with resultant

changes in fine structure, dimensions, morphology and mechanical properties”. Higher lustre,

increased tensile strength, and high dye affinity are the deired qualities in mercerised cotton.

The main object of mercerisation is to improve lustre. However, the process is also carried

out sometimes to enhance dyeability, to remove crease mark and to remove neps from the

fabric. The mercerisation treatment consists of swelling the cotton fibre with 20 to 23%

caustic soda solution at room temperature under tension for specified duration. Tension

during mercerisation is necessary to improve lustre.

In commercial mercerisation, caustic solutions used are in the range of 50º-60ºTw (52º-

54ºTw to be precise).

Machine Used: BENNINGER

Model: SIMATIC OP27

SPECIFICATIONS

Total threading length: 300 m

Caustic tank threading length: 100 m

Stabilising tank threading length: 50 m

Flow Of Material

Recipes Of The Mercerising Machine

GLM Chemical Recipe Speed (m/min) Temperature (ºC)Change over time

(sec)

<100 Caustic(39-40ºBe)220-230 gpl

60 60 4-5

100-200 Caustic(39-40ºBe)230-240 gpl

50 60 4-5

200-300 Caustic(39-40ºBe)260-270 gpl

40 60 4-5

300-400 Caustic(39-40ºBe)270-280 gpl

40 60-65 4-5

>400 Caustic(39-40ºBe)270-280 gpl

30-40 60-70 4-5

DYEING DEPARTMENT

Dyeing is the process of colouring textile materials by immersing them in an aqueous solution

of dye, called dye liquor. Normally, the dye liquor consists of dye, water and an auxiliary. To

improve the effectiveness of dyeing, heat is usually applied to the dye liquor. The theory of

aqueous dyeing, is modified when an organic solvent is substituted for water.

The general theory of dyeing explains the interaction between dye, fibre, water and dye

auxiliary. More specifically, it explains:

• Forces of repulsion which are developed between the dye molecule and water; and

• Forces of attraction which are developed between the dye molecules and fibres.

These forces are responsible for the dye molecules leaving the aqueous dye liquor and

entering and attaching themselves to the polymers of the fibres.

Fibre material can be dyed in any form during its manufacture from fibre to garment. The

most common forms used are fibre, yarn and cloth. It is most economical to dye at as late a

stage in the manufacturing sequence as possible.

The basic steps in any dyeing are:

• Impregnation with colour,

• Development/fixation of the colour,

• Aftertreatment,

• Drying.

Dyeing department

Conventional dyeing range

Jet dyeing machine

In this machine, both fabric and water moves. Here we give movement to the water

and fabric moves through the impact of jet of water. Both fabric and water moves in same

direction.

Jet dyeing machine is mainly used for polyester dyeing but it can be used for other quality

also.

•Machine name Jet dyeing machine(u-shape)

•Manufacture Devrekha

•No. Of machine 4

•Capacity 350kg

•Nozzle pressure 3kg/cm2

•Dye used disperse, vat, reactive

•Fabric used cellulosic, synthetic

•Total liquor 600lt.

•Speed of fabric 400mt/min

In case of polyester:

• MLR 1:3

• Temperature 1300C

• pH 4-4.5

Soft flow machine

In this machine we use a roller called soft roller which help in reducing tension in fabric.

1. Machine name soft flow

2. Manufacture texfab india

3. No. Of machine 1

4. No. Of worker 2

5. Capacity 400kg

6. Quality light to medium fabric

7. Dye used disperse, vat, reactive

8. Temperature 1300C for PET, 60-700C for cotton

9. Nozzle pressure 0.5-1.0 bar

10. Total liquor 3600-4000lt

11. Fabric speed 200-300mt/min

Winch dyeing machine

For light weight quality fabric, this winch dyeing machine is used.

• Machine name winch dyeing

• Manufacture Shakti

• No. Of machine 8

• Capacity 100kg

• Used for washing of printed fabric Dyeing

• Form of material rope form

• Dye liquor 150-200lt

• Heating system direct

• Heating medium steam

• Timetaken 12-14hr.

Jigger

This machine is used for dyeing the cotton fabric. Fabric is used in open width form in

this machine. In this, cloth moves from one roller (let-off roller) to another roller (take-up

roller) through trough or liquor. After one complete turn, the movement of fabric get reversed

i.e. Let-off becomes take-up and take-up becomes let-off roller automatically thus the

required number of turns are given to the fabric. Thus in this machine, liquor is stationary

and fabric moves.

• Machine name Jigger(old)

• Manufacture Shakti

• No. Of jigger 6(2 for sample)

• No. Of worker 1 for 1 machine

• Capacity 250kg

• Heating system indirect to direct

• Speed of fabric 40-45mt/min

• MLR 1:2,1:4

• Diameter of roller 250mm

• Width of roller 2000mm

• Time for 1 batch 10-12hr(reactive)

• Production 2000m/day per machine

Hydraulic jigger

It is almost same as old jigger, but only change is that it is fully automatic,

microprocessor control and its capacity is high.

• Machine name hydraulic jigger

• Manufacture Shakti

• No. Of machine 1

• Capacity 350kg

• Trough capacity 2000lt

• Max. Temp. 100c

• Dyeing temp. 60-70c

• Heating system direct or indirect

Steps of dyeing in jigger

S.no. Step temp.(0c) turns

1. Loading 50 -

2. Add resist salt 50 2

3. Dyeing 50 2

4. Salt addition10% 60 2

5. Dyeing 60 2

6. Salt addition30% 60 2

7. Dyeing 60 2

8. Salt addition60% 60 2

9. Fixation(soda ash) 70-80 4

10. Overflow wash R.T. 4

11. Soaping 80 4

12. Hotwash 50 2

13. Coldwash R.T 2

Continuous dyeing range

Two m/cs constitutes the whole continuous dyeing range.

A pad dry

B pad steam

Pad dry

1.M/c make Benninger (Germany)

2.Manglemake Kusters

3.Thread length 140 mts.

4.Man power required 1 operator+1helper

5.Speed 60 mts./ min

Brief description of the machine

Operation of the machine can divided into following sections

Feeding

• Fabric is fed from batch

• Fabric is guided through rollers, tensioners and scray to the padding zone.

• Presence of scray helps to feed the fabric uninterruptedly during the change of the

batch.

Padding

• Fabric is padded with dye liqour in the kuster’s mangle present in this

machine

• Capacity of the trough 60 litres

• Pneumatic and oil pressure is applied in the squeeze roller to get the uniform

expression through out the width of the fabric

• Padding pressure is

Left Middle Right

1.6 1.8 1.6

• Temperature of the liquor – room temperature• Expression or pick up depends on the type of fabric

Airing

• Airing zone is there before the entry of fabric into ir drying unit to ensure proper migration

of dye particles inside the fibre matrix.

Infra red drying

• Air and propane gas are injected at very low pressure and these mixtures are heat

generated from this ignition heats up the ceramic plate, which becomes red hot and

generates IR wave.

• There are two IR drying columns, each consist of a set of three ceramic plates in between

which the fabric is passed.

• IR drying plates the migration of dye on fabric it dry up the fabric uniformly 30-40% of

moisture is removed by infrared drying

Hot flue drying

• It is divided into two chambers

• Fabric is passed over a no. Of rollers arranged at two different heights and is dried by hot

air circulated by four blower fans (2 at the bottom & 2 at the top), extra air is exhausted

from the top.

• Air is heated by passing over oils containing hot oil (therminol 55, coming from the thermo

pack)

• Temp. of the first chamber - 110º C

Second chamber - 120º C

Fan speed First chamber Second chamber

Hot air fan 20% 30%

Exhaust fan 35% 25%

Exhaust air Damper 85% 85%

Cooling cylinders

After drying the fabric it is cooled by passing it over two cooling cylinders (cooled by passing

chilled water). This cooling is done to minimize the selvedge to selvedge variation.

Defects During Pad – Dry System

• Dropping – mainly in hot flue dryer thus check suction system properly.

• Crease marks – takes place in hot flue dryer and in ir dryer.

• Tailing effect

• Dark to light shade

• Colour spots

• Colour spurs

• Power failure

pad system

• M/c make Benninger (Germany)

• Thread length 360 mts

• Man power required two operators and one helper

• Average operational speed 50-60 mts/min.

Purpose of the machine

• In this machine color (reactive or vat) color is developed on the fabric after it is

being pigmented in the pad-dry machine.

• This machine can also be used as washing machine, when the chemical input in

the machine is cut off and steamer is also kept out of operation.

Brief description about the machine

Feed zone

Feed material is the output of the pad-dry machine in case of development

of the dyed fabric.

Fabric is guided from the guide rollers, tensioners and scray to the padding

section.

Presence of scray at the feed helps in uninterrupted feeding of material at

the feed section.

Fabric tension during is controlled automatically.

Padding zone

Name :- booster padding mangle

In this zone fabric is padded with developing chemicals

Expression of the mangle :- 90-100%

Capacity of the trough :- 60 lts.

Padding chemical temp :-. Room temp

Steaming zone

In this zone reaction of the developing chemical with the dye takes place.

Thread length in the steamer50mts.

Steam supply (dry steam) 112º C

Steam mix temp. (saturated) 90º C

Steamer inside temp. 99º C

Roof heating 112º C

Washing zone

Purpose of washing zone

For reactive dyes

• Removal of the unfixed, partially deposited and hydrolysed dyes.

For vat dyes

• Removal of the unfixed, partially deposited and hydrolysed dyes.

• Soaping causes the aggregation of dye molecules inside the fibres after which

final shade is achieved.

Washing of fabric dyed with reactive dye

Chamber & sub-chamber no Purpose Chemicals Temp.

(in ºc)

15 Cold wash - 40

16 Cold wash - 40

17.1 Neutralisation Acetic acid 60

17.2 Hot wash - 95

18 Soaping Cibacel ds 1gpl

Cibacron rsk 0.5gpl

95

19.1 Soaping “ 95

19.2 Soaping “ 95

20 Hot wash - 95

21.1 Neutralisation Acetic acid 60

21.2 Washing - 60

Chamber & sub-chamber

no.

Purpose Chemicals Temp.

(in ºc)

15 Cold wash - 40

16 Cold wash - 40

17.1 Oxidation Resist salt 60

17.2 Oxidation Resist salt 60

18 Soaping Cibacel ds 1gpl

Cibacron rski o.5gpl

95

19.1 Soaping “ 95

19.2 Soaping “ 95

20 Hot wash - 95

21.1 Neutralisation Acetic acid 60

21.2 Hot wash - 60

Washing of fabric dyed with vat dye

Cooling zone

• No. of cooling cylinders - two

• Temp. of cooling water - room temp

Drying zone

Type of drying vertical cylinder drying range

No. Of drying cylinders 10+10

Dimensionsof cylinders 32” * 72”

Pressure of steam in the cylinder 50 lbs/insq

Steam consumption 60 kg/hr/cylinder

Checking points :

• Level of the chemical liquor inside the kuster mangle is regularly checked.

• Conc. of NaOH (during development of reactive dyes) is checked.

• Conc. of hydrosulphite (during development of vat dyes) is checked.

Procedure

Take 10 ml of hydros solution to be tested. To it add 10 ml of formaldehyde solution. Make it

to 250 ml. In the volumetric flask with distilled water. Take 25 ml> of the above prepared

solution end point of titration is brick red color

Hydros (gpl) = reading of burette * 4.35

Printing

Printing department can be divided into following sections

1. Printing studio.

2. Print color kitchen.

3. Printing section.

4. Curing and steaming section.

5. Washing zone.

Printing studio:-

Objective:- the main objective of the print studio is to transfer the design obtained from the

buyer on to a perforated screen, so that the design become print able. Tracers in this

department adjusts the repeat size of the design to a factor of 64.2 cms (the circumference of

the print roller) this enables a perfect repetition of the design during printing. The tracers also

make any alteration in the design as may be demanded by the party. The screen rollers once

prepared are preserved for future use.

Flow charts:

1. Receiving of order

• Order is received in the form of a

• Swatch

• Cad paper

• Hand made by artist

• Garment cutting

It also contains sample no, production no, buyer’s name, amount of production and delivery

date.

2.Tracing the design:-the design samples comes to tracer who first makes the repeat size

of the design. The repeat size must be a factor of 64.02 cms which is the circumfrence of the

screen roller. Once the repeat size is adjusted the teacer finds number of colour present in

the design.then he traces each part of the design of different color on diferent paper called

tracing film (polyester paper) by fine nib with black ink.

3. Enlarging of repeat size:- each repeat unit of different color is enlarged on photo

sensitive paper by using violet light. Time taken in this process is 60-90 secs.

4. Developing:- the enlarged sheet is then developed in ammonia solution for 30-60 sec.

Design positive is produced on the photosensitive paper on which design part changes to

black colour. Hence the bld (bright light developed).

Flow Chart For Making Of Screen Rollers.

1.Rounding off: round screen made of nickel alloy (available from market) is rounded off by

placing it in a chamber at 180*c for 45min.

2.Coating:-ni- screen rollers are coated by photo emulsion & centiliser mixture.

3.Climetising:- here the chemical coating over the screen roller is dried by hot air at 45c for

20-25 mins.

4.Exposing:- coated Ni screen roller is mounted on a rubber which is inflated with air. Bld

negative is wrapped at one side (say lhs) of the roller other parts are covered by paper &

U.V. Light is projected on it for 3-4 mins. Same operation is done for the total width of the

screen roller. The design portion (black) of the negative prevents the U.V. Light to go through

it. So the photo emulsion under it remains soft U.V.ray falls on the other portion of the roller

& the photo emulsion over there gets hardened by chemical reaction.

5. Washing:- the roller is then washed by water in a water bath for 10 mins. Here unreacted

soft part of photo emulsion is washed off by a piece of sponge. now the design portion which

was turned to black on bld paper,becomes opaque on the screen roller, then the roller is

dried.

6.Checking:- the roller is then thoroughly checked. The pores of the design portion are

properly opened by water. Undesirable pores are also covered by colour.

7. Curing:- chemicals on the screen roller are cured in the curing m/c by hot air at 180c for

2 hrs.

8. Rechecking:- rechecking & reqd. Manipulation of the screen roller is done.

9. Preparation of rfp roll:- finally two aluminium rings are attached at both edges of the

roller with araldite. The roller is now ready for printing.

Design Department

In this design department , sample designs are developed on the computer with matching of

design as well as their creativity. They have used designing software and print out the design

on paper. If the design is very fine and complicated then it is prepared on paper by hand with

help of experts.

• Machine name hp design jet 500

• Manufacture hp

• Used for paper print

• Paper used mtltifilm,Transparent clear film

• Speed 6inch/min

• No. Of colour 4

Screen exposing techniques

Computerised screen exposing

Manual screen exposing

Computerised screen exposing

In this technique, coated nickel screen is fixed on machine and program of the design is

entered. Automatically design is drawn on the screen or engraved on screen as well as the

exposing of the screen takes place by U.V.. Light.

• No. Of machine 1

• Machine name luscher engraving & exposing

• Manufacture luscher

• Ink used wax black ink

• Length of machine 120inch

• No. Of cycle of engraving 1

• No. Of cycle of exposing 4

• Total time taken 15 min

Manual screen exposing

• Exposing time for 1 repeat 4-5min

• Exposing time for full screen 40-50min

• Screen length 50-60inch

Sample Printing machine

(Baby Printing machine)

• Machine name Digital printing machine

• No. Of machine 1

• Manufacture Nimaki textile jet Txz-1600

• Speed 10m/hr

• No. Of colour used 8

• Printing width 62inch

• Dyes taken pigment, reactive

Print colour kitchen

As the name suggest this section of printing of printing department is concerned with print

paste preparation, which is made readily available for printing. Two different methods for print

paste preparation, one for pigment and other for discharge printing.

For discharge print (in general)

Chemical Quantity ( in %)

Safolite 20

Soda ash 7

Pine oil 2

Glycerine 2

gum 6

Water 63

Total 100

For colour discharge, we use the same recipe but with the addition of colour (non-

dischargeable).

Preparation of Hindustan gum

50kg of Hindustan gum powder is mixed with 100kg of water & fast stirring is done for 10-12

min. Then it is taken in a tumbler and slow stirring is done for 10-12 hrs. From this paste 6% is

added to the main stock paste.

Preparation of the printing paste

All the chemicals of stock paste are mixed thoroughly in the PVC container by means of a

motor driven stirrer for 1 to1.5 hrs again the vat colour as per the shade, is dissolved in water,

stirred well and mixed with the stock paste. This mixture is stirred for 10-15 min. This paste is

ready to be used for printing.

Printing section

Printing machine

• Name of m/c Rotary screen printing m/c

• Machine make Laxmi

• No. of machine 2

• Total no. of printing rollers 12

• No. of chamber in drying zone 5

• No. of dryer fans 10

• No. of exhaust fans 3

• No. of radiators 5

• Temp. of drying chambers 1090C, 1220C, 1370C, 1500C, 1380C

• Avg speed of m/c 20-40m/min

• Min. Speed of m/c 10-12m/min

• Max. Speed of m/c 40-50m/ min

• Length of machine 25.84m

• Width of machine 2.30m

• Type of blanket rubber blanket

• Length of blanket 16m

• Width of blanket 64inch

• Thickness of blanket 1mm

• Type of squeezee magnetic squeezee

• Drying medium hot air produced

By circulation of

Hot air over the

Pipes containing

Heated oil

Brief description of the m/c

Feed zone

Fabric passes over batch roll through guide rollers, there are two brass rollers followed two

suction to remove the floating fibres and dust on fabric surface

Printing zone

There is an endless rotating rubber conveyer in this zone. At first fabric is pasted with the

rubber conveyer by the pressure roller with the help of PVA then the fabric comes under the

printing roller through which the print paste is applied the pressure of the printing roller can

be adjusted by changing rod inside it. A single colour is applied by one printing roller

generally darker colour containing rollers are arranged gradually from back to front. Different

coloured print pastes are applied by different square shaped hollow and perforated rods

(squeeze) by individual pumps. The rubber conveyer is cleaned by water and doctor blade

under the machine.length of the fabric in this zone is 23 feets.fabric after printing zone enter

drying zone.

Drying zone

There are five chambers in this zone containing five radiators. Hot oil is circulated through

the radiators and the blowers circulate the hot air. For pigment printing drying temp. is around

160 deg and for discharge printing it is around 140deg.generally the temp. of first two

chambers is kept lower than the subsequent chambers. Fabric after drying goes to delivery

zone.

Delivery zone

Fabric coming from drying zone passes through guide rollers and is lapper into the trolley.

Factors to be checked at the time of printing :-

• The design printed on the fabric coming out from the printing bed is checked carefully.

• Distortion of the design occurs mainly due to chocking of the printing rollers or due to the

floating fibres attached with the printing rollers.

• Sponge wetted with water to avoid chocking is used to wash printing rollers

• Again a dummy roller is fitted at the beginning of the printing bed the surface of which is

coated by gum. When fabric passes through the surface of this roller it arrests the floating

fibres attached to the fabric

• For a broad design it is checked whether the fabric coming out from the delivery zone is

properly dried or not. Temperature of the drying chambers are increased if necessary.

• The level of the color in the PVC container is checked. It is also checked whether colors

are coming out from the squeeze properly.

• The cleaning system of the rubber conveyer under the printing bed and the PVC

application to it is also checked.

Curing & Steaming Section

Continous ager (steaming m/c.)

• Name of the m/c continous ager m/c

• Maker name gayatri m/c

• Thread length 200 m

15 m/min (normal)

6-8 m/min (min.)

50 m/min (max.)

• Drying system steaming

• Steaming time 8-2 min.

• Temperature of m/c 101º c for discharge

150-180º c for pigment

• Pressure of steam at feed 18-20 kg./cm sq

• Roof heating system by hot oil

Brief description of the m/c

The m/c contains 26 guide rollers each at the top & at the bottom, both feed and delivery

takes place from the front side of the m/c. Fabric simply passes through the series of guide

rollers during the process. Both direct & indirect system of heating are in this m/c. Water is

heated by hot oil pipes located below the m/c, to generate indirect steam, another purpose of

steam is to saturate the direct steam to be applied on the fabric. The roof of the m/c is

heated to about 130 - 140º c to avoid steam condensation of the steam & hence dropping on

the fabric. Direct steam is also applied at the feed and delivery to avoid droppings.

Discharging agent present in the printing paste forms a fume inside the m/c with the help of

saturated steam, which actually develops the color on the fabric surface.

Special features :

• Both curing (for pigment) & steaming (for discharge) can be carried out in this m/c for curing

there are 2 radiators & 2 blowers.

• Pre steaming arrangement is here to avoid dropping in the fabric.

• Both feed & delivery are on same side of the m/c

Defects :

• Tearing of the fabric inside the m/c.

• Dropping of water droplets on the fabric. This occurs if roof temp. Is inadequate or steam

contains water molecules.

• Insufficient development. This occurs amount of safolite in the print paste is low, level of

water in tank is low or amount of steam is sufficient.

Loop Ager

Name of the m/c loop ager

Machine make Swastik textile Engineers pvt. Ltd.

Machine speed 15 m/min(normal) 1-2 m/min (min.) 30 m/min(max.)

Steaming time 6-15 min.

Temp. with in the m/c 101º c for discharge

Roof heating system steam

No. of exhaust 2

No. of loops formed inside the m/c 30

Brief description of the m/c

In this m/c the feed and delivery is located on different sides of the m/c. Fabric loop is formed

at the feed by a loop former situated at the feed. The fabric inside the m/c is moved by means

of guide bars. Since the fabric is in loop from so the length of the fabric and hence steaming

time is more roof is steam heated to avoid droppings. Water tanks are there at the right hand

side of the m/c water is heated by hot oil to produce steam. Discharging agent present in the

print paste forms a fume inside the m/c with help of saturated steam, which actually develops

the color on the fabric surface channels of exhaust system are located inside the m/c to avoid

droplets loop length and speed of the m/c is adjusted according to the nature of the fabric and

the nature of design.

Special features of the m/c :

• As the fabric passes inside the m/c in loop form, more steaming time is available.

• Loop length inside the m/c can be varied so developing time can also be varied

according to the nature of the fabric and nature of design.

Defects :

• Tearing of the fabric inside the m/c.

• Dropping of water droplets on the fabric. This occurs if roof temp. Is not proper,

steam contains water particles.

• Insufficient developing. This occurs if amount of safolite in the printing paste is low,

level of water in tank is low or amount of steam is sufficient.

• Discharging of the base color at undesirable places. This occurs due to the following

causes

• Safolite causes fumes of sulphur dioxide, which mixed with the steam and forms

fumes of sulphurous and sulphuric acid. These fumes damage the base color and

also the cellulose.

• If two neighboring loops touch each other side and if discharging agent of one loop

discharges the base solor of neighboring loops at undesirable places, patchy marks

appear in the fabric causing damage.

Washing Zone

Printed fabric is washed either in the continuous washing range or open width print washer.

Georgette or moscrepe fabric are washed in the width in the winch machine since the wet

strength of these are very low.

Brief Description Of The Machine

Feed the fabric is feed into the machine through guide rollers from trolley or palette.

First chamber fabric is passed over a special type of

perforated roller and cold water jet is

sprayed on the fabric.

Second chamber fabric is passed over a wire mesh in the

form of an extended pleated form. Water

jet is applied on the fabric from top. This

helps to remove impurities from the fabric.

Finishing Department

This department takes fabric from printing and dyeing department. Stenter machine is

commonly used in this department, main use of this m/c is to develop the feel of fabric and

to give the final touch. In discharge printing this m/c is used to develop the printed portion.

Stenter:-

Specification:-

Machine name Stenter

Manufacturer Smecon

Speed :

For light weight fabric 69 m/min

For heavy weight fabric 20m/min

Pressure 1.5 bar in side

1.6 bar in centre

Drying tome - 30 sec

Blown fans 10

Exhaust fans - 3

No. Of radiators 5

Length of chamber 3m

Process type - continuous

Form of feeding open width form

Temp.(in 0C) of chambers :1st 2nd 3rd 4th 5th 6th

175 192 182 193 190 194

Sanforiser

The main work of this m/c is to control the shrinkage of fabric..

Specification:

Manufacturer Ramson

Process type continuous

Speed 50 m/min

Heating arrangement direct steam supply

Form of feeding open width form

Process

Fabric is feeded to the m/c from feeding end and it passes through a rubber blanket running

in contact with hot shoe. Then it enters over a blanket running over a metal drum. Various

parameters of m/c setting are given below:

(a) main steam pressure 6kg/cm2

(b) drum rubber belt 2.5kg/cm2

(c) palmer 2kg/cm2

(d)speed of m/c 50m/min

Fabric is collected in trolley or batch after passing through m/c.

Non confirmity product

1.Shade is not matched

2.Shrinkage is not within limits

3.Different types of stains in fabric

4.Skew, bowing is observed in fabric

5.Rubber mark, of crease is observed in fabric

6.Centre-selvedge variation is observed

Preventive remedies:

1. Shade is not matched.

If difference is less ,then it is carried out in stenter by pigment topping.

If difference is higher and also the quality of material is high then it is matched in dyeing

department

2. Shrinkage is not within limit

In weft direction if shrinkage is greater than 3% then it is re-stretched and set the width to

keep shrinkage within limit.

In warp direction if the shrinkage is greater than 3% then it is de-sanforised to keep the

shrinkage within limits.

In case if shrinkage is too small that is less than 1% than it is re-sanforised to increase the

shrinkage but within 3% limit

3. Different types of stains in fabric

After several experiment, the chemical or route is decided by the concerned person in the lab.

The stain is removed from the fabric either in jig or by gunning.

If stain is not removed then fabric is converted in black shade.

4. Skew, bowing is observed in fabric

The fabric is re-stentered through bianco where skew-bowing is corrected.

.

5. Rubber mark, o-o crease is observed in fabric

During power failure in sanforiser rubber mark and o-o crease is occuered. This fabric is re-

stentered.

CHAPTER III

TECHNOLOGIES USED

Machines used in Weaving

Machines used in Processing

MACHINES USED IN WEAVING

Name of Machine Make Country of originUsed for Process

Sixty Six Air Jet Looms Toyota Japan Weaving M/c

Direct Warping M/c Beninger Switzerland Yarn Warping

Sectional Warping M/c Prasanth Gammatex India Sectional

Warping

Continuous Sizing M/c Beninger Switzerland Yarn Sizing

MACHINES USED IN PROCESSING

Name of Machine Make Country of origin Used for Process

Gas Singe & Desizer Osthoff Germany Gas Singeing & Desizing

Continuous Bleaching Range Beninger Switzerland Scouring/Bleaching

Continuous Mercerising Range Beninger Switzerland Mercerising

Cold Pad-Batch Kusters Germany Dyeing

Pad-Dry Machine Beninger Switzerland Dyeing

Pad-Steam Range Beninger Switzerland Dyeing

Continuous Wash-Range Beninger Switzerland Washing/Soaping

Two Rotary Printing 12 Colour Laxmi India Printing

Rotary Printing 12 Colour Zimmer Austria Printing

Steamer/Ager Arioli Italy Print developing

Rotary Screen Engraver Luescher Germany Printing Screen Engraving

Two Sanforiser Ronson India Zero-Zero machine

One Stenter m/c Ilsung Korea Finishing

Two Stenters SM Econ India Finishing

Peaching m/c Lafer Switzerland Emerising/Peaching

A brief description of the Sarla Fabric Pvt. Ltd., Ghaziabad has been given in the report.

Studies of the various processes performed in the plant for the manufacture of RFD fabric,

dyed and printed fabric has been done to the optimum level. A brief account of the various

quality measures taken in the plant has also been given. Various parameters maintained in

the plant are also mentioned. Wherever possible, aid of the flow diagrams has also been

taken. We have put in our best for the compilation of this report.

CONCLUSION

REFERENCES

www.tradeget.com

www.bharattextile.com

www.marketresearch.com

www.indialine.com

Fiber to Fabric - Corbmann