textile internship at OCM India Ltd

TEXTILE INTERNSHIP Report

On

OCM India Ltd. (Amritsar)

By

Chaitanya Attuluri (9)

Haqiqat Ali (12)

Kushagra Jain (13) (DFT, Sem-5)

Under the guidance of

Prof. T. Srivani (DFT)

National Institute of Fashion Technology

Hyderabad

2

Textile Internship Mentor: - Prof. T. Srivani (DFT)

NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY

HYDERABAD

Program : B.FTech

Batch : 2010-2014

Department : DFT-5

Date : 4th September, 2012

Submitted by:-

Chaitanya Attuluri (9)

Haqiqat Ali (12)

Kushagra Jain (13)

3

Table of Contents

S. No. TOPIC PAGE NO.

1 Textile Industry- Introduction 2

2 Objective of Internship 3

3 Company Profile

Brand Key

Brand’s Style Quotient

Product Portfolio and Sub- Brands

Company Details

4-7

4 Organizational Structure 8

5 Process Flow of Production 9-11

6 Spinning 13

7 Spinning Flow chart 14

8 Various terminology 15

9 Spinning processes

Blending

Combing

Autoballing

Drawing

Roving

Ring Frame

Autoconer

Parallel winding

Steaming

TFO Twisting

16-24

10 Spinning efficiency and Stop Motions 25

11 Weaving

Introduction

Flow chart

Design development

Warping

Drawing and denting

Rapier weaving

27-35

12 Loom shed

Stop motions

36-38

13 Dobby shedding 39

14 Weaving mechanism 40

4

15 Production Calculation 41

16 Problem in weaving section

Types of defects

Classification of defects

Conclusion

inspection

42-45

17 Quality control Department

Research and development Lab

49

18 Testing Equipments 49-55

19 Inspection Lab 56

20 Photogallary 57

21 Learning Experience

Safety measurement

Learning outcome

63-65

22 Annexure 67-68

5

Acknowledgement

We would like to take this opportunity to extend our deepest regards to our faculty guide

and mentor, Ms. T. Srivani, who guided and helped us throughout the progress. He

provided us all the knowledge and information and support that were worth useful in our

research work. We also appreciate his effort to countercheck and give us feedback time to

time as well as whenever we needed.

We extend our sincere thanks to our Department, DFT, for arranging the industry

internship and providing us a great opportunity of industry exposure.

We would also like to thank the Entire OCM Community and professionals for co-

operating with us and providing the necessary details, facts and other required information.

We thank him for giving us the material samples and allowing us to click the pictures as

well.

We would like to express our sincere gratitude to the following people at OCM India Ltd.

Amritsar.

Mr. Mayank Dixit, GM, HR Department

Mr. Pankaj Sharma, officer, HR Department

Mr. H.M. Natraja, GM, weaving section

Mr. Ravi S. Parihar, officer, weaving section

Mr. MP singh, DGM, spinning section

Mr. Kulbeer Singh, Tech. officer, QC section

Mr. Gagandeep singh, Supervisor, QC section

Mr. Akhshay kaushik, GM, designing Depatment

Lastly we are grateful to NIFT-Hyderabad also, for giving us an opportunity to provide us

a window in our curriculum to do industry research and giving us the facilities required.

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PART-1

INTRODUCTION

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1. TEXTILE INDUSTRY

The textile industry is a term used for industries primarily concerned with the design or

manufacture of clothing as well as the distribution and use of textiles.

Textile is a general term applied to any manufacture from fibers, filaments, or yarns

characterized by flexibility, fineness and high ratio of length to thickness. Textile Industry

is unique in the terms that it is an independent industry, from the basic requirement of raw

materials to the final products, with huge value-addition at every stage of processing.

Textile Internship as a module in the course of Apparel Production emphasizes on the

learning of the processes in the Textile Industry which involves the major processes of

procuring raw material, spinning, weaving/knitting, dyeing, printing, finishing, testing and

quality control measures. The internship revolves around observing the functioning and

processing at a Textile Manufacturing Unit.

It also greatly focuses on the learning of the process parameters, working conditions,

process flow and other important criteria in the manufacturing process. It is also important

to observe the machinery details, safety measures, and productivity, testing and quality

criteria. We were to understand the step-wise breakdown of all the process, how they are

carried and what are the start and end-product at each of these steps.

The two weeks of internship focuses on enhancing the knowledge about the properties of

different fibers, their physical and chemical nature and their behavior when subjected to

varied conditions. The observations made on the treatment of different fibers based on their

differing properties were also to be learnt and recorded alongside.

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2. OBJECTIVE OF TEXTILE INTERNSHIP

The objective of our textile internship at OCM India Ltd was to understand the concept of

spun yarn production, grey fabric production, dyeing and their quality aspects both

technical as well as for commercial purposes.

Our first step was to learn about the profile of the company and their basic dealings. We

further dealt with the way the company handles the raw material and sends it through to

subsequent stages of manufacturing. We were to learn about the various stages in the entire

process of textile manufacturing, the importance of each of these stages, the machinery

features, machine and material process parameters available in detail in the areas as

mentioned below.

We summarize some of the major concepts that we were to observe and understand during

our internship:

a) Yarn manufacturing and Winding section

b) Weaving section

c) Testing and Quality control

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3. Company Profile

OCM India Ltd. manufactures and retails apparel fabrics in

India. It offers wool blended, polyester viscose, polyester,

and woolen fabrics. The company provides suiting, shirting,

trousers, and jacketing fabrics. In addition, it exports

products to the United States, Europe, Japan, CIS countries, the Far East, the Middle East,

and internationally. The company offers its products through retailers and distributors.

OCM India Limited was formerly known as The East

India Carpet Co. Ltd. and changed its name in

January 1989.

The company was incorporated in 1922 and is

headquartered in New Delhi, India. OCM India

Limited operates as a former subsidiary of Digjam

Ltd. Since its inception in 1924 as a manufacturer of

hand-knotted carpets, OCM has come a long way to

become one of the largest worsted suiting producers,

the first one to implement a customized textile ERP

solution.

A completely vertically integrated plant, OCM has

in-house production facilities to convert tops to

finished fabrics through dyeing, spinning, weaving

and finishing using state-of-the-art machinery. All

the materials and processes pass through stringent

checks at every stage and help in delivering

outstanding quality.

At present the company?s capacity includes 34064 Spindles and 140 high speed shuttle less

Looms thereby giving spinning capacity of 12000 kgs yarn and weaving capacity of 25000

Mtrs of fabric per day. The spinning preparatory is from NSC, France, Spindles frpm

Zinser, Germany, Autoconers from Schlhafhorst, Germany, TFO?s from Leewha, Korea

Established in 1922

Offers wool blended, polyester

viscose, polyester, and woolen

fabrics

Provides suiting, shirting,

Trousers and jacketing fabric.

Implies customized textile ERP

solution.

34064 Spindles and 140 high

speed shuttle less Looms.

12000 kgs yarn and of 25000

Mtrs of fabric per day.

37-acre complex and employee

base of 1020 people.

250-500 Cr. Turnover.

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and looms from Lindaeur Dornier, Germany, Sulzer, Switzerland and Picanol, Belgium.

Apart from this, colour continuity is tested on colour matching system from Gretag

Macbreath, UK and fabric gets final finish on KD from Biella Shrunk, Rotary Press of

Mario Crosta,Italy, Continuous Decatising from Speretto Rimar, Italy, Superfinish from M-

Tec, Germany and Shearing machine from Xetma Vollenweider, Switzerland.

The ownership of OCM is split between the US-based, WL Ross & Co. LLC, a global

private equity fund management company and HDFC Ltd. The company has a 37-acre

complex, with contemporary processes for manufacturing world class fabrics.

The Company has its Corporate & Sales office in Delhi, while its manufacturing facilities

are in Amritsar, Punjab. It has a strong employee base of 1020 people, who work

relentlessly towards achieving customer satisfaction.

THE BRAND KEY

Youth, today, is being celebrated and respected as they are

redefining their space in the society at large. Young men in

smaller towns are experiencing real change at home, work

and other societal spheres. This is their era.

They are keen to mark their presence and create a place for

themselves, in family and society, through their efforts and

their energy. They cherish their newfound optimism and

seize opportunities to make a real impact. They are action-oriented and are bubbling with

the spirit of enterprise. They aspire to make a name for themselves through merit and

enthusiastic efforts. However, they are also practical in their approach to life. There is no

desire to break traditions or to rebel against authority. They don't wish to stand out for the

wrong reasons, they don’t want to be seen as brash rebels or make fashion statements, just

to assert their individuality. Individual freedom and self-expression are sought but, with a

sensitivity towards family and community. Their friend circle means a lot to them and

there’s a very close bonding and camaraderie amongst friends.

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THE BRAND’S STYLE QUOTIENT

OCM makes one look and feel smart, handsome and super-

confident; makes one believe that he can become some-one

of worth; makes one to trust that he too can be an achiever,

who can make his family proud and acquire stature. The

change brought about by an OCM suit is sure to be

recognized and celebrated by the people around.

The intent is to be the fashion leader as well as an educator for the new generation; to give

them a set of colours, designs and styles that they call their own. OCM offers far more

fashionable colours, designs and styles than the other brands do. OCM aims to set the

trends of every season and to lead consumer education on styles, via a tailor program that

provides catalogues and guidance on looks. OCM brings to the small-town consumers the

latest designer and metropolitan fashion trends.

PRODUCT PORTFOLIO & SUB BRANDS

OCM brings nearly 1500 new design combinations, twice a

year, to cater to the needs of one and all. Design and

Technology combine to translate the fibers into finest

fabrics.

Suiting:

The consumers can choose from a wide range of suiting. The collection includes specially

crafted designs in pure wool, wool rich blend with polyester and blend with polyester

viscose, amongst others. The range, with its wide array of colors, designs & soft hand-feel,

suits every occasion and age.

Trousering:

Our fine trousering range has a vast array of pure wool, wool

rich blends with polyester and blends with polyester viscose

to choose from. These fabrics pass through stringent test

parameters so that the consumer gets nothing but the best.

12

Jacketing:

Our range of jacketing has one of the widest variety and colors to choose from. Across the

industry, OCM is acknowledged as the ‘Gold Standard’ when it comes to tweeds.

Shirting:

To offer a complete fabric solution, OCM now has introduced cotton shirting fabrics

through an exclusive relationship with Esquel Group of China.

OCM - Company Details

Corporate Office

C-9, Community Center,

Safdarjung Development Area,

New Delhi-110016

Ph: +91 11 43119100, Fax: +91 11 43119195

Registered Office & Factory

OCM Estate, GT Road, Chheharta, Amritsar-143105

Ph: +91 183 2820600, Fax: +91 183 2258714

[email protected] • www.ocm.in

OCM India Financial Details :

No of Employees – 1001-2500

Turnover in Crs – 250-500 Crs

Sector- Private Sector

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Organization Structure

Owner

CEO

HR Depatmenet

(GM)

HR managers

DESIGN Depatment

(GM)

Designing team

officials

Maketing Department

(GM)

Analysts

Spinning Department

(GM)

DGM (spinning)

Supervisors Technical officers

Weaving Department

(GM)

DGM (Weaving)

Supervisors Technical Officers

Q.C. Department

(GM)

R & D team

officials

Inspection section

(Manager)

Processing depatment

(GM)

Dyeing and

printing section

Finishing section

other depatmen

ts e.g accounts, building

and administa

tion

OTHER HEADS, MANAGERS, SUPERVISORS AND OPERATORS

14

Process flow of production

Marketing Department

Customer orders taken

Specifications prepared

Designing department

Swatches made

Specifications prepared for

Spinning, weaving and processing

Weaving Department

Production of fabric

Spinning Department

Yarn manufacturing

Quality Control Department

Fabric inspection

Defects analysis and mending

Packaging

Processing department

Coloring

Steaming/conditioning

Storage/Warehouse

Distribution/Dispatch

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4. Process flow of production

The design and marketing department coordinate with each other to carry out the market

research and surveys to anticipate the demand and trend in the market. They also deal with

the customers and orders being placed for production. As soon as the orders are being

received the design department finalizes the designs of fabric to be manufactured. The

corresponding specifications are made for the manufacturing of yarn and henceforth the

fabric.

In case of production of yarn, the required amount and quality of raw material is either

purchased or taken from the buyer itself. Customers who place the demand for customized

fancy yarn or fabric provide the raw material in the form of fiber laps. The specifications in

the context of yarn characteristics and other manufacturing aspects are sent to the spinning

depart where the required material is produced within the given deadline.

After the production of yarn, it is sent to the processing department to enrich it with

different type of finishes and colors, if required. This processed yarn is then sent to

Research and Development lab for the testing and cross checking it according to the

required specifications of colors, functional properties, aesthetic properties and

defectiveness. The defective material is then sent back to the processing department for the

mending of defects at yarn level.

This yarn is the steamed at around 87ºC for nearly 45 min. steaming can be done before or

after imparting color to the yarn. It can also be done at the stage of parallel winding or after

giving the twists to the parallel wound yarn i.e. after converting it into 2 ply or 3 ply

threads. The purpose of steaming is to make dead the fiber twist and impart the strength to

it.

To produce the fabric, the manufactured yarn is warped directly (by direct warping or

sectional warping) so that drafting can be done the heald shafts. The drafted heald shafts

are then transferred to the loom. The loom in turn weaves the thread according to the

design of main fabric and selvedge inculcating different mechanism of loom running

techniques. The produced fabric is then inspected manually for the defects. The defected

16

pieces are sent for mending whereas the pass fabric bundles are sent to inspection section

where they are inspected again for further problems and defects. The inspected fabric is

then written on it the specification like the percentage of different fibers. The packaging of

fabric is done in the inspection section which is then sent to godown or warehouse to be

dispatched for selling.

Fig. transportation of Raw material

17

PART-2

SPINNING SECTION

18

Spinning

Fibers cannot be used to make clothes

in their raw form. For this purpose,

they must be converted into yarns.

The process used for yarn formation is

spinning. Spinning by hand was a

slow and laborious process. Thus,

many implements and methods were

invented for making it faster and

simple. Eventually, the techniques

were refined and industrial spinning started manufacturing yarn in various

ways. The methods selected depend upon the factors such as the

manufacturer's preference of equipment, the economic implications, the fibers

to be used and the desired properties of yarn to be produced. Ring method is

the oldest and the most used technique. Open- end spinning is another

important method. The basic manufacturing process of spinning includes

carding, combing, drafting, twisting and winding. As the fibers pass through

these processes, they are successively formed into lap, sliver, roving and

finally yarn.

At OCM Amritsar the Raw material for spinning was received in the form of

fiber laps which are subjected to further processes of carding combing roving

and spinning. Hence there was no blow room in that industry. The raw

material is either provided by the customer only for the manufacturing of

required quality of yarn and hence fabric or it is imported by the industry itself

as per the requirement for production. In both the cases directly the fiber laps

are received. These laps of different kind of fibers are then mixed

systematically to produce the blends in the right ratio.

1. Fiber Lap: - Raw Material for spinning Department

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SPINNING- flow chart

Blending

Combing

Autoconer 238

Ring Frame / Zincer H21

Post combing / Autoballing

Roving / FM 7

Parallel winding

Drawing

Steaming / Conditioning

Spinning / TFO Twisting (TWO FOR ONE)

20

Important Parameters of Yarn & Fiber:

Length

Strength

Single Yarn Strength

Yarn count

TPI

Twist Multiplier

RAW MATERIAL

Wool ( 14 microns – 28.5 microns)

Polyester ( 1.5 D – 2.5 D)

Trilobel polyester ( triangular shape)

Plain polyester / terylene ( circular shape)

Viscose, nylon and Flux ( 1.5 D – 2.5 D)

Testing

Moisture testing (percentage of moisture content)

Oil testing (percentage of oil content)

Noil testing (for vegetable trash and short fibers)

USTER testing (for evenness and % of hairiness and knots)

Count testing

21

Various Processes of Spinning

Department

1. BLENDING

Mechanism

Narrowing the passage

Tension

Decrease in weight/length called

ginning.

Carded sliver of different fibers is the raw material.

They are inspected for moisture, oil and weight of sliver

One blending machine is handled by two workers

Total three machines installed

Blending (mixing of two diff. types of fibers)

Material from first machine is passed to second machine for more thorough

mixing and in turn to the third machine for the same purpose

It's two coiler mixer which gives 2 output slivers for 10 input slivers.

Machine Model : GC – 14

Speed 200 – 250 meters/min

Production:

1200kg/shift/machine

Fig. blended fiber lap

Fig. GC-14 blending machine

Fig. Specifications of blending

22

2. COMBING

OBJECTIVE

To remove short fibers , neps, pin points etc from the material

For uniform blending of fiber

To remove dirt, dust and foreign matter

To get good quality yarns.

Combing of doubled material is done in PB-31 machine

It’s a French type of comb that utilizes three pulley mechanism

For 24 input slivers it gives only one sliver as output.

It increases the length, levels the material mass and weakens the sliver.

Input : 30gm/m, output: 22gm/m

In three pulley mechanism machine runs on three specified speeds only

175 mpm

190 mpm

210 mpm

Six machines in this section were being handled by one worker

Total 22 machines were installed

The production rate is 150kg/shift/machine

Fig. Combing mechanism Fig. comber (Top Combing)

Fig. The Waste

23

3. POST COMBING / AUTOBALLING

Combing weakens the fiber blends hence Ginning (doubling) is repeated.

After ginning, autoballing is done.

It strengthens the fabric by thoroughly ginning the slivers.

This machine automatically wraps the material and one completion of one roll

it automatically gets rid of the roll and continues the cycle

It runs at 200-250 mpm

Productivity: 1200kg/shift/machine

The task of post combing and autoballing is carried out in the same machine

at two different passages

One machine is handles by one worker

Total three machines were installed

Additionally it works as an auto leveller also, which means giving it a

constant weight to length ratio

24

4. DRAWING

Drawing machine has four passages

o P1 – mixing

o P2 – auto levelling

o P3 – bi-coiling

o P4 – tri-coiling

It runs at the speed of 200-250 mpm

Total three machines were installed

Two workers are assigned to handle one machine

Production rate: 1000kg/shift/machine

25

5. ROVING

The machine model used is FM7 NSC

It runs at the speed of 160 mpm

40 spindles machine

Total five machines were installed

Production rate is 800kg/shift/machine

Mechanism : rubbing-drafting system

26

6. RING FRAME / ZINCER

It is a 556 spindled machine.

It runs at the speed of 8000 rpm.

Three machines are handled by one worker.

Input bobbin = 278

Output bobbin = 556

Drafting angle = 45º

Weft thread- autoconor single yarn

Warp thread- TFO, 2 ply twister

27

7. Autoconer Machine

Air suction mechanism for catching the thread.

Total 258 cones can be made on one machine at a time

It converts the small package into big standard package.

Removes various faults like thin place thick place splicing.

Speed is 600-800 rpm.

28

8. Parallel winding

120 spindles machine

1 spindle = 1 kg

Input: 240

Output: 120

Speed = 305 mpm

29

9. Steaming/ conditioning

4 boilers

500 kg each

Steaming can be done at

two stages

1. After the autoconer

winding

2. After applying the

TFO twist

The normal temperature to be aaplied is 87ºc

Application time is 45 min

It is used to set the twist and release the stress of the yarn/thread.

10. TFO Twister

Two For One Twister

High speed spindle

Run at 6000-8000 rpm

144 spindle machine

Total 144 machines

30

Spinning- other facts

Spinning efficiency

PARAMETERS TARGET ACTUAL UP TO DATE

Waste % 5 4.97 5.18

Defective % 0.5 0.29 0.11

Efficiency % 80 84.5 80.2

Production(meters) 9000 4048 -

Averagecount 45 nm 40.3 35.3

Stop Motions for Spinning

Red – machine stop

Green- Mechanical Fault

White- doff indicator (indicated a few min prior to the finish)

Yellow – synchronize with controlled stop motions

31

PART-3

WEAVING SECTION

32

INTRODUCTION

Weaving is the process of interlacing two sets of yarns called warp and weft,

at right angles to each other. Warp yarns run in vertical direction & the weft

yarns run in horizontal direction.

33

WEAVING: Flowchart

Raw Material

(Yarns) Storage

WARPING

WEAVING

DRAWING AND DENTING

DESIGN DEVELOPMENT

SAMPLING

INSPECTION

FOLDING

SENT FOR PROCESSING FOR

DYEING &/OR PRINTING

WEFT

WINDING

34

DESIGN DEVELOPMENT

Designing is a part of marketing. In O.C.M., the people who are in marketing deal with the

customer and gives the designing department about what is to be made and what is the

demand of the customer. Marketing sector gives the designing department information

regarding the sale..

PROCESS :

Marketing receives the requirement and then sends samples collected from the

customers to the designers

The fabric then comes for analysis to the designing department that is the designer

analyze what the fabric is and how it can be made

The designers reply back to the marketing department with analysed report and the

production cost

The marketing people offer on process to the customer

Then if agreed converted into bulk order

12” x 8” handloom samples are made for the customers

If checks/stripes design is there paper printout is taken out with the desired color

35

WARPING

The single yarn packages made in winding and spinning are directed for warping. The

warp is a lengthwise thread attached to a loom before weaving begins. Each individual

warp thread in a fabric is called warp-end.

The aim of warping is winding on one package to a certain number of warp-ends of a

particular length. During warping, ends from many winding packages are wound on a

common package to prepare a warp beam.

Warp yarn passage on warping machine

Requirements for warping:

The tension of all wound ends must be uniform and possibly constant during all the

time of withdrawal from supply packages.

Warping should not impair the physical and mechanical properties of the yarn.

The tension should be moderate, to allow the yarn to completely retain the elastic

properties and strength.

The surface of the warping package must be cylindrical.

A predetermined length of the warping should be observed.

Warp beam

Comb with

dents

36

The production rate of warping should be observed and it should be as high as possible.

Direct Warping

High speed warping also called Beam warping/Direct warping. In high speed warping the

yarn is wound parallel on the warping beam. All the yarns are wound at once and simple

flanged beam is used. It is a very high speed process and is used for making fabric of single

colour.

The direct beaming machine satisfies the highest demands regarding the performance,

precision and quality. Exact cylindrical winding, high-precision uncrossed thread laying,

precision length, desired winding density assured.

37

Process :

Ends are manually held by worker from each cone, taking 4-5 ends in 1 hand at a time

& they are passed through dents in the comb of the warping m/c.

This process requires deft use of fingers, hence girls are preferably employed.

Warp beam is spun by the drum, which also decides the speed of the m/c

Rotary V – shaped creel arrangement . 44 rows of 8 cones each make the creel.

Sensors & LED display for detection of yarn breaks, which is then retied & wound.

With every yarn break, there is stoppage of beam

automatically.

SECTIONAL WARPING

The main object of the warping is to produce the warp

sheet according to the warp pattern and formation of warp

beam.

Sectional warping is done when one needs to produce

some design i.e. beam contain some different colors of

yarn then sectional warping is used. In sectional warping,

the warp threads are wound on the warping drum

sectionally. After winding on drum it is then taken on

weavers beam. The yarns which are coming from

DOUBLE YARN ROOM are going for winding for

preparing required amount of package. Then they are then

creeled according to the warp pattern.

OBJECTIVE

With the help of the creel, to accumulate required no. of ends on drum, section by

section, according to the design.

To facilitate to insert lease in the warp sheet with the help of the leasing reed so

as to keep all the warp ends intact in their sequential position.

To collect all the warped ends from drum and to facilitate to wind them in a

beam.

To apply requisite amount of wax coating on the warp ends during beaming to

reduce hairiness of the yarn and thus producing a weaver’s beam.

38

DRAWING-IN & DENTING-IN

Drawing-in is the process of drawing the warp yarns through

the heald shafts according to the weave plan. Denting-in is

the process of drawing the warp yarns through reed wires, as

per the reed count. Both processes are done in the loom gaiting operation

(preparation for production)

Drawing In

In weaving, it is necessary to space the warp threads properly in order to get the required

compactness of the cloth. This is affected by passing the warp yarn through the dents of the

reed of appropriate count so that the cloth woven from

the warp may contain the required number of threads

Manual Drawing In

The process is carried out on an upright frame. The beam

is brought on a trolley and placed at the bottom of the

frame. The operative opens knots on the warp section

and then the yarn is passed through 2 lease rods and then

through drop wires, heald frames and reed. The heald shafts and reed are held on separate

brackets.

The operation of drawing in is carried out in the following manner. One operative is called

the ‘reacher’ and the other is called the ‘drawer’ who sits in front of the frame. At the start,

the reacher takes a bunch of warp threads in his hand, straightens them up and selects the

yarn one by one from one extreme end of the loom beam in the proper sequence. By this

time, the drawer inserts the hook through the corresponding heald eyes. At the extreme end

of one heald as soon as the hook reaches the other side, i.e. on the side of the reacher the

latter will insert the appropriate end in the eye of the hook which will be immediately

drawn on the other side by the drawer.

For manual drawing-in, the speed is around 5000 ends per shift. Special incentives are

given to those who cross a particular limit when it comes to extra number of threads drawn

in.

39

RAPIER WEAVING

In Rapier looms, the weft insertion element

resembles a rapier or a thin bladed straight

sword; hence the name Rapier Weaving. There

are many varieties of Rapier systems such as

single, double, flexible, rigid, telescopic and two

phased. A Rapier in its simplest form consists of

a single rigid bar, solid or telescopic and a damp

device called gripper head screwed at its feed

end. Here the control over the weft is positive during the whole pick insertion cycle. The

rapier may be also be of the rigid rod type or flexible, made of metal or plastic tapes.

Flexible tapes invariably need guide meters inside the shed that emerge during the pick

insertion and sink back into the sley before beat-up. The

Rigid rapiers that include telescopic type remain suspended from the fulcrum and may get

help from right upper warp sheet.

FEATURES OF RAPIER WEAVING MACHINE

Electronically controlled weft tensioned reduces the yarn tension especially during

insertion.

Automatic package switching device prevents the machine from being stopped in the

even weft break between the package and weft feed. The weavers can repair the fault

while the machine is running and reactivate the unit that has been stopped.

Electronically controlled warp let-off and cloth take up units ensure a high degree of

fabric regularity and prevents all kinds of start and stop marks.

Grippers are redesigned to ensure better clamping of the yarn and prevent rubbing

against the warp yarns.

Electronic monitoring control systems have simplified the communication with the

machine and facilitated its easy handling by anyone concerned with the operation of the

machine.

40

Advantages of Rapier looms:

Need of smaller shed than one required by a shuttle to pick weft across cloth

Reduced strain upon warp threads

Run at 4-5 times the speed of conventional looms

Reduces physical & mental strain on the weaver as they are easier to work &

manipulate

No risk of shuttle flying out or trapping of shuttle in a smaller shed

Power consumption is about 1/3rd than that in conventional loom of same width

Weaves upto 2-4 times as much as fabric per unit time

Disadvantages of Rapier looms :

• High breakages of warp & weft due to very high speed

• Limited type of fabrics can be woven

41

LOOM SHED

Divided into 4 units having total 120 looms.

Shed – A

22 machines (looms),dorneir cimmco

Machine specs :

Type dornier

Manufacturer : cimmco ltd

Non-electronic / non automatic

Reed space or max allowed width of fabric : 190cm

Avg rpm range : 200-260

Max heald shafts : 20

Colour selector max : 8

Dobby : 2232 staubli(mechanical dobby )

Shed – B

42 machines (looms), dorneir htv

Machine specs :

Type HTVS s/8

Manufacturer : dorneir germany

Fully automatic and electronic

Reed space or max allowed width of fabric : 190cm

Average prod rate of a loom : 12 m per hr




Dobby : 2667 staubli(electronic and automatic dobby )

Automatic Pick finding mechanism

42

Shed – C

16 machines (looms),sulzar

8 machines (looms).cimmco

dornier

Machine specs (sulzar):

Type sulzar

Non-electronic / non automatic

Reed space or max allowed

width of fabric : 190cm




Dobby : 2400 staubli(mechanical dobby )

Shed – D

32 machines (looms),picanol

Machine specs :

Type :picanol gtx

Reed space or max allowed width of

fabric : 220cm

Electronic / automatic




Dobby : 2660 staubli(electronic dobby )

43

Stop motions

blue light – warp breakage

yellow light – weft breakage

yellow-red light – emergency switch

yellow light continuous blink – end of weaving length

red light – fault in machine

red light continuous blink – fault in the machine projectile

manual stop

General facts related to weaving section :

1 labour for handling 6 machines

1 mechanical supervisor for each shed

Jacquard is used for monogram on each side (in the form of continuous running

strip along the selvedge)

Monogram strip can be weaved through the dobby too.but jacquard is used for

small English alphabets and finer finishes .

44

DOBBY SHEDDING

A Dobby Loom is a type of floor loom that controls the whole warp threads using a device

called a dobby. Dobby is short for "draw boy" which refers to the weaver's helpers who

used to control the warp thread by pulling on draw threads.

COMPUTER CONTROLLED DOBBY MECHANISM

A computer controlled dobby loom (Computer-Dobby) takes this one step

further by replacing the mechanical dobby chain with computer controlled shaft

selection. In addition to being able to handle sequences that are virtually

unlimited, the construction of the shaft sequences is done on the computer screen

rather than by building a mechanical dobby chain.

This allows the weaver to load and switch weaves drafts in seconds without even

getting up from the loom. In addition, the design process performed on the

computer provides the weaver with a more intuitive way to design fabric; seeing

the pattern on a computer screen is easier than trying to visualize it by looking at

the dobby chain.

Dobby looms expand weaver’s capabilities and remove some of the tedious work

involved in designing and producing fabric. Many newer cloth design techniques such

as network drafting can only reach their full potential on a dobby loom.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Loom

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Warp_%28weaving%29

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yarn

45

WEAVING MECHANISM

There are three motions of weaving: These are primary, secondary and auxiliary

motion.

1. Primary motions : Every loom requires three primary motions to produce a woven

fabric. These motions are Shedding, Picking and beating.

a. Shedding : Shedding is the name given to the motion, which moves heald frame up

and down in order to separate the warp sheet into two layers and form the shed in

which weft yarn is passed.

b. Picking : Picking is the second primary motion in which weft yarn is passed

through the shed. This is known as picking.

c. Beating-up : Beating up is where the reed, mounted in a reciprocating sley, pushes

the weft into the fell of the cloth to form fabric. This requires considerable force,

hence the term beating-up. The crankshaft of the loom is responsible for the beat-up

action which must take place after each weft insertion and so it will make one

revolution per pick inserted.

2. Secondary motions : There are two secondary motions in weaving namely let-off and

take-up.

a. Let-Off : The let-off motions ensure that the warp ends are controlled at the

optimum tension for the fabric that that is being woven.

b. Take-up : The cloth take-up motions withdraw cloth from the fell and then collect

it at the front of the loom.

3. Auxiliary motions : Auxiliary motions are warp stop motion, warp protector, weft

stop motions and weft replenishment.

a. Warp stop motion : Warp stop motions halt the loom when a drop wire falls as a

result of end breakage.

b. Warp protector motion : Warp protector motions stop the loom before beat-up in

the event of projectile falling to complete its traverse from one side of the loom to

the other side.

c. Weft stop motion : Weft stop motion halts the loom in the event of a break in the

weft yarn.

d. Weft replenishment : Weft replenishment ensures a continuous supply of weft

yarn to the loom whenever a supply package becomes exhausted.

46

PRODUCTION CALCULATIONS

Loom efficiency = Actual production X 100

Calculated production

= Actual running time X 100

Actual running time + Stopped time

Production per shift = RPM X 60 X 8 X efficiency

(In meters) PPI X 39.37

Production per shift = RPM X 60 X 8 X efficiency

(In yards) PPI X 36

47

Problems in Weaving Section:

Loom Defects:

1) Reed Marks : Caused in the fabrics due to damaged reed,bent reed wires, wrong denting

2) Loom stopping : Causes are broken warp, broken or exhausted weft

Fabric Defects:

Warp Defects :

Warp breakages / Broken ends : Occurs when Warp yarn tension exceeds the yarn

strength

Wrong Ends : When more than one end breaks at the same time, there is a chance

that they may be drawn through the wrong healds.

Selvedge defects : Corded selvedges,small or big loops, rough, curly or wavy

selvedges, slack & tight selvedges, curling selvedges.

Weft Defects :

Weft breakages & Mispicks : Causes can be tender yarns, harsh picking, defective

weft winding

Thin & Thick Places : Thin places are caused by irregular let-off and/or take-up

motions.

Thick places are made of weft being unduly crowded due to take-up motion

missing & failing to turn the cloth roller.

Tight Picks : Caused due to cops/weft packages wound too tightly.May cause the

cloth to curl.

Cracks : Open streak or irregular stripe, parallel to the weft,extends part or fully

across the fabric.

Slugs : Caused when the weft yarn is of irregular diameter and/or contains slubs.It

is an abruptly thickened place in the yarn

Set Mark : Horizontal Mark across the cloth in which there are abnormal no. of

picks per inch

48

Classification of major and minor defects:-

Types of defects Minor Major

Stains - At more than one place

Missing ends 1-3 cm More than 3 cm

Cracks 1-2 picks More than 2 picks

Thick places Up to 2 picks for lighter

variety

More than 3 picks

Broken picks Less than half the width

of the fabric

More than half the width

of the fabric

Floats/Stitches Less than 1 cm 1-5 cm

Slubs 2 slubs in weft of size

less than 1 cm

More than 2 slubs in weft

of size less than 1 cm

Filament rupture - More than 1 place

Double pick/Lashing - in Occurring less frequently Occurring more

frequently

49

Conclusion: -

The first point to be noted is that the quality of the fabric at the loom is determined by the

entire sequence of operations from weaving preparatory to weaving. The approach should

therefore be to consider each process in relation to the manner in which it affects the

subsequent process and not in isolation. In this context it should be remembered that

though the preparatory department and the loom shed both contribute substantially to the

fabric quality and loom productivity, the conversion cost at the loom shed is greater than

that of preparatory, and so maximum emphasis should be given to the quality of

preparation at the preparatory rather than its productivity.

There should be a systematic and periodic checking of the loom mechanism and

accessories in order to ensure that their contributions to fabric defects are minimum.

Effective quality round should be made by the jobbers and the supervisors at least twice

per shift. This will eliminate continuing type of fabric faults to a greater extent. If a defect

is noticed it should be rectified immediately. Training of workers and making them quality

or value loss consciousness is a preventive method of avoiding weaving defects.

50

INSPECTION

Purpose of this department is to check for defects

on the woven fabric roll. The inspection id done in

accordance with the 4 point system.

This was carried out on machines where the roll

was monitored warp wise against an illuminated

background screen such that the lamina of the

fabric was visible & the operator could stop &

mark a defect where he found a defect in the fabric.

51

PART-3

QUALITY CONTROL

52

A T O CM , t h e r e was a s ep ar a t e d ep ar tm en t d ed ica t ed to t e s t i n g o f

t h e f ab r i c . Th e dep a r t m en t w as b as i ca l l y d i v i d ed in to t wo l abs :

Research and development lab

Inspection section

Research and development lab

This department is used for testing fibers, yarns and fabrics. This department actually

consists of machines that carries out various tests at different stages, viz, fibre stage, yarn

stage and the fabric stage.

1. FIBER TESTING

Parameters of fiber testing are,

Length

Strength

Single Yarn Strength

Yarn count

TPI

Twist Multiplier

Machines used for fiber testing were as follows:

ph meter

microscope

spectrophotometer

fiber testing methods and euipments

2. YARN TESTING

The important characteristics of yarn being tested are,

yarn twist

linear density

yarn strength

yarn elongation

yarn evenness

yarn hairiness etc.

2

Machines used in yarn testing were as follows:

microscope

yarn board matching or appearance tester

digital twist tester

ph meter

dyeing machine

oven

yarn count machine

3. FABRIC TESTING

Machines used in fabric testing are as follows:

tear strength tester-paramount

spray tester- to check water repellancy

martindale abrasion cum piling tester

crockmeter for rubbing test

automatic washing for shrinkage

pilling test equipment

random tumble pilling test

dyeing machine

laundrometer for color fastness

colorfastness to sunlight

3

TEARING STRENGTH TESTER

To determine tearing strength of knitted and woven fabrics.

Capacity up to 6.400Kgs.

With adjustable cutting knife.

Having three variable capacity 1.600kg, 3.200kg & 6.400kg for different type of fabrics.

Latest design with modern sophisticated look.

Complete with accessories including three calibration weights.

Supplied with inspection & calibration certificates.

SPRAY TESTER (WATER REPELLENCY TESTER)

Used to measure the resistance of fabrics to wetting by water.

Latest economic design.

Specimen holder is fixed at 45° to meet the American standard.

Special funnel, which adheres to the standard.

Complete with all accessories including 500ml beaker, template & marking pen for cutting specimen.

Supplied with calibration & inspection certificates.

4

MARTINDALE ABRAISION CUM PILLING TESTER

To determine pilling resistance & abrasion resistance of any type of fabrics.

With three variable load 3Kpa, 9kpa, 12kpa to test in different standards.

Ergonomically designed digital control panel with display for four individual stations.

All control & components strictly adheres to C E Mark specifications for safety.

Emergency stop switch to stop testing, in urgent, without hindering setting.

CROCKMETER

To determine the Colour fastness of Textile to Dry or

Wet Rubbing as per ISO/European Standards.

Ergonomic latest design with modern appearance with precision-engineered components.

Electronic, re-settable LCD Counter.

Easy to use, Polycarbonate Specimen Clamps.

Dual Metal Sample Holder for specimen Testing and Garment Testing.

Complete with all accessories including pre-cut (50 x 50 mm) 400 crocking clothes, 16mm Finger and

finger clips, blotting papers etc.

5

COLOUR MATCHING CABINET

To access the colour matching of Yarns & dyed or

printed fabrics or any material anyway coloured.

Latest Design & economical colour matching Cabinets for American buyers.

The control panel is ergonomically designed for operator comforts.

This consists of six standard light sources, D 65,CWF,Inc A,UVB,U 30,and TL 84.

Interior paint, matching with Munsell N/7, which strictly adheres to the American standards.

Easy Foldable type metal sheet body eases transportation & Installation.

Supplied with calibration & Inspection Certificates.

DIGITAL TWIST TESTER

Used to determine the twist per inch/cm.

Specially designed for single yarn, double yarn & open-end yarns.

Smooth precision-engineered mechanism.

1 & 50gms weight supplied to give proper tension during testing.

Digital control panel with LCD display.

Complete with all accessories


6

PH METER

Used to evaluate the Ph value of any solution.

Portable in size.

Digital with microprocessor control.

With digital display of Ph up to one decimal.

Complete with all accessories-Ph-7 & 4 capsules, beakers, and electrode stand. Etc.


YARN EVENNESS TESTER

To access the yarn irregularities (like thick

place, thin place, slubs etc.)

Two different types of boards supplied for

winding the yarn.

Specially designed Separate unit for holding

yarn bobbin.

Yarn wrapped on the board can be

20,22,26,32,38 & 48 ends per inch.

Six traverse speed options for fine to coarser

count of yarn.

Supplied with all accessories.

Supplied with calibration & inspection

certificates.

7

MICROSCOPE

Used for fibre analysis or fibre identification.

With maximum resolution of 1000X.

Any type of measurement like length, area, count of

any fine textile fibre can be done.

This is the best option for Textile fibre analysis.

Enlarged view due to projection on 360? graduated

screen.

Supplied with complete accessories including stage

micrometer for calibration.


DYEMASTER

To do sample dyeing with infrared heating.

200ml twelve beakers supplied to dye 12 samples

together & temperature up to 140 degree C with

infrared lights.

Eco-friendly equipment, which does not give any residue & Latest

microprocessor based control panel for temperature & time.

Inside dye assembly pot moves at variable speed in both directions.

Stainless steel body & beakers gives rust-less long life & Smooth, precision-

engineered components for exceptional performance.

Special cooling blower for instant cooling of the bath.

Supplied with all accessories along with tong for removing beakers.


8

WASHOMETER

The washometer is used for determining color fastness of

textile materials to washings. This is attained by

mechanical agitating a specimen of textile in contact with

pieces of specified adjacent fabrics in a soap-soda

solution, before being rinsed and dried.

The change in color of the specimen and staining of the adjacent fabrics are

assessed with standard gray scales

PILLING TESTER

Digital Pilling Tester consists of two

wooden cubical Boxes with inside surfaces

lined with special standard cork sheet and

outside surfaces beautifully laminated.

These boxes are rotated about their central

axis at a specified speed with the help of a

geared motor.

A Pre-set Digital Counter stops the motor automatically after the desired number

of revolutions

9

HOT AIR OVEN

The oven controller has Special T/P action to avoid

overshooting of temperature. It has Stainless Steel

Inside Chamber, Outer is Mild Steel neatly powder

coated.

Complete with Hot air blower and Digital

Temperature Indicator cum Controller. A separate

control panel housing all indicators is provided on the

right side of the main body allowing easy

maintenance and accessibility aesthetically designed

for long life and comfortable usage.

Controlling Digital Temperature Controller cum

Indicator

Maximum Temperature Range 105-1070C

Power requirement 220V-240V single phase 1 KW

Inside Dimensions 455mm x 455mm x 455mm

10

INSPECTION LAB

It consists of two sections

1. Inspection section

2. Storage section

Inspection section

The inspection of grey fabric is done in this section.

This the second stage of inspection as fabrics are initially

inspected visually just after the weaving process.

Fabrics sent for mending are also inspected again.

The machine used for inspection is perch machine.

For export quality, 4 point system is used.

No of porch machines- 10

Inspection table- 5 m length

This inspection table is used for mending of defects as well as

cutting of the extra length.

The required length according to the order placed is also cut

here.

Export fabric is generally bundled in 120 m.

Packing

o Civil fabric- Pad folding

o Export quality- rolls

11

Fig. weight measurement FiG. magnifier to count PPI And EPI

Fig. Patrol to remove stain Fig. inspected fabric

Figure 2 color fastness test

Common defects found n inspection section.

Picking

Slubby yarn

Nappy

Contaimination

Float

Damage

Stamp mark

Tightened

Stain

Patches

Selvedge defect

2

3

Storage section

The storage section incorporates the facility for the storage

of raw material (sliver), yarn for weft and warp as well as

the manufactured fabric.

The 3 different type of storage have different type of

storage techniques.

The slivers and yarns are stored in the shelves with their

coding written on the shelves.

The manufactured fabric is generally transported or shipped

to its destination customer or else it is temporarily stored in

the small warehouse.

4

PART-5

LEARNING EXPERIENCE

5

Introduction- Safety Measures

The textile industry consists of a number of units engaged in spinning, weaving, dyeing,

printing, finishing and a number of other processes that are required to convert fibre into a

finished fabric or garment. There are several safety and health issues associated with the

textile industry. This article aims at studying each of these issues in relation to the US and

Indian textile industries in detail, along with the possible solutions for these problems.

The major safety and health issues in the textile industry can be stated as under:

1) Exposure to cotton dust

2) Exposure to chemicals

3) Exposure to noise

4) Ergonomic issues

The following suggestions can be made to improve the safety and health conditions in

textile units:

The seats of the workers and the tables should be well aligned in height so that

there is no musculoskeletal strain.

There should be proper lighting at the place of work so that eye strain can be

avoided.

Machinery should be well maintained in order to reduce the level of noise. If

necessary, certain parts of machines can be replaced.

In case the noise level cannot be controlled, workers should be provided with

earplugs so that exposure to noise can be reduced.

Workers can be rotated within jobs so that they are not faced with continuous

noise exposure for a long period of time.

There should be proper ventilation at the place of work.

In order to reduce the exposure to dust, workers should be provided with masks.

Trained medical personnel and first aid facilities as well as safety equipments

such as fire extinguishers and fire alarms should be available at the place of work.

In units where there is heavy exposure to dangerous chemicals, workers should be

provided with safety gloves.

6

Proper dust control equipment should be set up and maintained to reduce the

workers exposure to cotton dust.

Medical examinations should be conducted by the employers for the workers from

time to time. If significant occupational health problems are observed, appropriate

measures should be taken by the management.

In OCM industries safety is the major concern in every part of the work .The

industry also implemented the safety precautions in every department.

Providing safety equipment for the workers in different sections for their health

safety.

In the industry there is a fire preventing alarm and fire preventing water facility is

also provided.

For every machine a board is attached which guides how to work on the machine,

to protect themselves from the hazards.

Management also giving awareness to the workers through the fire preventing

boards, and writing boards.

Every department is provided with a first aid box

7

LEARNING OUTCOME

Our objective of this internship was to understand and observe the basics of spun

yarn production, gray fabric production, dyed and finished fabric production and

their quality particulars, both technical as well as commercial.

As students of Department of Fashion Technology, who specialize in the field of

apparel manufacturing, it was truly a new and enriching experience to go and

understand the various processes carried out in a textile industry. We slogged in

for hours and hours every day and finally what we come back with is

incomparable. The knowledge of textiles has broadened our understanding of

various subjects taught to us in our college.

During our stay at industry we had the splendid opportunity to schedule our lives

according to the hectic routine of the industry. The professional outlook and

approach of the people around us helped us inculcate these qualities in ourselves

too.

Interacting with the high level managers was an experience in itself. It gave us the

better understanding of the managerial skills and how to maintain professional as

well as personal relations with subordinates and superiors. They taught us how to

be professional and yet be friendly while working with the employees and the

operators. Working and obtaining information from operators was a tough task,

with communication barriers and ego issues it was a pretty difficult task. By the

guidance of our HOD’s we were able to create a congenial environment for

working with them.

At the end we would like to say that this project has greatly improved our

managerial skills. It has exponentially improved our abilities to communicate with

people, our documenting and presentation skills and it has also enhanced our

imaginative and observational power. We learnt how to explore new dimensions

and formulate them according to our needs.

8

BIBLIOGRAPHY

1. FIBER TO FASHION

2. OCM.IN

9

ANNEXURE

10

Documents

textile internship at OCM India Ltd