Textile InternshipJaya Shree Textiles, Hooghly

Made by:Saima Jafari (MUM13AP13)

Mentored by:Mr. Nitin Uttam Salve

Introduction• Jaya shree textiles is under Aditya Birla Nuvo’s textile division• Largest manufacturer of linen fabric in India• Product range- suiting, shirting and dress materials• Linen is sold under Brand name “Linen Club”

• Linen is a textile material made from the bast fibres of the flax plant.

• It absorbs moisture and dries more quickly than cotton.

• Linen is most suitable for summer apparel

Process flow of linen fabric manufacture

BALE OPENING

CONDITIONING

MANUAL SEGREGATION

HACKLING

DRAWING

ROVING BOILING OR BLEACHING

WET SPINNING

DRYING

WINDING

YARN DYEING SECTIONAL WARPING

YARN DRAWING

WEAVING

PIECE DYEING

FABRIC PROCESSING

INSPECTION AND QUALITY CONTROL

PACKAGING

GODOWN

• Fibre Procurement: Belgium, France• Bales- Round (100 kg) and square

(200kg)• Bale Opening• Manual segregation in bunch of 100g• Suction mechanism in perforated

tables• Tag of quality is attached

Hackling• m/c model- JAMES MACKIE & SONS

LTD • 1 hour- 4320 bunches• Consists of a leather lattice• 3 types of pins: thick, medium and

fine• Linen system and tow system

Gill Box• Re-combing of flax slivers• Providing crimps• Draft= input/output

Drawing• Make: James Mackie• Passing hackled slivers through

wooden and steel rollers• Delivery drums are color coded• Row of 6 draw frames• Removal of thick and thin places

from hackled slivers• 3 or 4 carriage system

Roving• Gives a false twist to drawn slivers• Roves are wound on bobbins• A chain lifts the platform for even winding of roves• Production/shift: 1.2 tonnes• The same procedure is followed for both line and tow

Boiling/ Bleaching

• Boiling: for dark colors and natural color of linen

• Bleaching: for white and lighter shades

• M/c model: Loris belline• Time: 5-7 hours• Capacity: 1200 kg• Water-intensive process• 10% strength loss• Steam & air pressure: 7kg

• Wetting agent: Albaflow CIR• De-aerating agent: Betaform KS• Contaben gel (to break rove)

• A small tank is connected with main tank for checking purpose

• pH can be checked to control bleaching

Spinning• Wet spinning• M/c name: Spinning ring frame (PM-

88 L5)• RPM: 4000• No. of machines: 26• People working: 40• Heads: 56

• Color coding for rings and bobbins• Thick and thin places cannot be

eliminated• A lever below the frame to stop

spinning• Doffers make the new setting once

the production is over• Radio Frequency drying

Winding• M/c used: Schlafhorst Autoconer• Production: 3 tonnes/day (500m/min)• Package weight: 1-1.5kg• Robotic arm lifts on breakage, splicing happens• Throws away bobbins to the conveyer belt below on finding neps• Three alarm lights- Red, green and yellow• Inspection 5-6%• The broken rags are used in making currency paper

Dye recipe prediction: DATACOLOR• Spectrophotometer• Autolab• Solution maker• Ahiba nuance• Colour matching machine

• 14 recipes can be tested at one time• Colour matching is done in 4 different types of light• Control helps them to detect which dye has expired

Yarn dyeing (package)

• Dyes for linen: Reactive & Vat• SNOW: Super white, full bleach• Wetting agent: ALBAFLOW CIR• Salt, soda ash, acetic acid• Vat dyeing is preferred at the night time• Total machines: 25 of capacities 25kg and 420 kg• M/c model: Loris Bellini HTHP• Overhead conveyer system

HTHP Package dyeing machine

What is cupping and Delave effect?

Cupping: Rounding the corners of cheeses during Vat dyeing to increase penetration

Delave effect: Dye penetrates less at the intersection of yarns, creatind patchy effect in fabric

Warping• PPC dept. gives the Job card • Creeling is done from top to bottom and front to back• Sectional warping m/c: Prashant gamatex• Single end warping m/c: Suzuki Warper Ltd.• The shape of the barrel is non-uniform to avoid slippage of warp

sheet

Gating and knotting• Knotting machine• Knots two warp sheets together• Makes 320 knots per minute• Done when pattern is same, color can

be changed• An operator has to monitor it

Gating is done when design pattern changesDrawing in through heald eye, reed dent and drop wires

Weaving• Total looms: 142 (rapier and projectile)• Make: Sulzer and Picanol• Primary motions: Shedding, Picking,

Beating up• Secondary motions: Taking up, letting

off• Humidifiers are used in linen weaving• 4 weft cones can be mounted

• Jacquard for selvedge• Cycle of jacquard has to match

with loom• Three rows of drop wire• The dropped drop wire can be

located with motion of hands• Three alarm lights: red, green

and yellow• Laser safety device

Singeing-cum-quenching• Gas singeing• M/c used: Osthoff senge• A chamber with quenching and

desizing solution

• Flame can be: Tangential, On the roll, On the fabric

• Temp.= 1200 C- 1400 C• An overlock m/c joins rolls• Prebrushed to raise fibres• Suction to remove ash• Post brush to remove ash

Continuous Bleaching Range (CBR)-CORINO MACCHINE• Total 8 chambers• Peroxide, caustic, stabilizers, wetting agent, de-aerating agents, bioenzymes

• Piece dyeing in jigger machines• Dwelling

• Stentering on Harish stenter• Width indicators• Temp.= 200-250 C

Inspection

• Grey fabric inspection: American 4 point system• Grading is done• Lot movement card contains quality, shade, customer, NS No., Job card

no., etc.• Spinning defects: Unbleached yarn, yarn change and pattas• Weaving defect: Chira, chappa, jhiri• Processing defects: Dagee, crease, white patches

Sanforizing: Zero Zero one Three bowl calendering(having metal & seam detectors)

Testing

• USTER TENSORAPID• Principle – constant rate of

extension CRE

• WRAP REEL• Length measurement for

determination of yarn count

Other tests:• Flammability test• Tearing and tensile strength test• Color fastness tests• Shrinkage test

Effluent Treatment Plant (ETP)1. Collection Tank2. Primary Clarifier3. UASB4. Diffused aeration tank5. Gas holder6. Primary and secondary settling tanks7. Gravity tank8. Discharge to drain

• BOD=25-30, COD=225-250• Acceptable TSS (total suspended solids)= 100 mg/l• Acceptable pH= 7.5-9

BIBLIOGRAPHY

• Wikipedia• Jayashree textiles official website

www.jayashree-abnl.com• Quality control department of Jayashree textiles• Handbook on testing of Jayashree textiles• Information from powerpoint presentations and

word documents from quality department of Jayashree textiles

• Information collected from the industry