Textile Internship Report (Part-2)

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GENERAL INFORMATION OF THE FACTORY

Name of the Factory : FakirApparels Limited.

Type : 100% Export oriented composite knitwear industry.

Year of Establishment : 1998.

Factory location : A-127-131, B-501-503,Bscic I/AEnayetnagar.Shashongao, Fatullah.Narayangonj-1400, Bangladesh.

Head office : 89, Motijheel, Lucky Chamber.Room no, 77-79, Dhaka-1000.

Total Space : 700, 000 square feetEmployee : 7500 Production capacity (Garments) : 140,000 pcs per day Production Capacity (Knitting) :20 tons per day. Production Capacity (Dyeing) : 30 tons per day. Sewing line : 90. Sewing Machine used : 2500 nos. Final inspection System : 4 points.

Factory Garments Quality 2 | P a g e

Product quality is assured in every step of operation from sourcing to packing. We’ve Independent Audit team to monitor the whole quality and inspection procedure and reporting directly to TOP management.

Fabric inspection: 4 point fabric inspection method Inline Inspection: Traffic light system (7pcs) Mid line /Pre-final : AQL 1.5 90 degree needle/metal detection arrangement based on customer requirement.

Product

All types of knit wears, especially Basic & Fancy T-Shirt for all ranges, Polo Shirt, Night wear, Shorts, KIDS items, Tank Top etc.

Wide range of fabrics like single Jersey, Rib, Interlock, etc. Grey Fabric, Spandex, Dyed fabric and Printed fabric Fabric dia ranging from 14″ to 32″ Customer specified GSM Dyed yarns for knitting

Production of knitted fabrics 20000 kgs per day Brand new circular knitting machine from Mayer &Cie (Germany) are installed in our factory. We can produce the following types of knitted fabrics:

Single Jersey Pique (Lacoste) Double thread fleece Selanik Interlock Rib and others.

All knitted fabrics can be produced with addition of spandex (Lycra) up to 60-70% percent.

Production Planning: 3 | P a g e

Planning sits at the heart of any business, Using Modern UK based Production Planning software “FASTREACT” for determining strategic marketing plan, Production Planning / Critical Path, Delivery control.

Our on time delivery performance from Jan to Feb/13 is 98.5%, target for 100% by the end of year 2013.

Annual turnover : 75 million USD.

Vision:

To build true marketing led enterprise with motivated workforce, innovative vision & more value added product portfolio, customer satisfaction & understanding of global market.

To be a world-class quality apparels manufacturer by satisfying social, ethical and environmental commitment.

To be one of the best leading composite mill in the Bangladesh.

Mission:

Execution of Lean manufacturing system in manufacturing processes Corporate practice in management system Be maximum flexible and transparent with our valued customers and suppliers

CERTIFICATES

• ISO 9001:2000 certified.

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• Control Union

• BSCI

• OEKO-TEX certified

• Wrap Gold Certificate

BUYERS

• H & M.

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• Tom Tailor.

• Ahlense.

• S.Oliver. .

• C&A etc.

• Primark.

• Esprit

PRODUC MIX • 100% cotton.

• CVC (Chief value of cotton).

• PC/TC (The more % of polyester).

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• Mélange-

1. Grey mélange : 10% viscose + 90% cotton.

: 15% viscose + 85% cotton. 2. Anthra mélange : > 50% viscose.

3. Ecro mélange : 2% viscose + 98% cotton.

4. Camel mélange : 1% viscose.

DEPARTMENTS RELATED WITH PRODUCTION

1. Yarn store.

2. Knitting section.

3. Raw fabric store & inspection section.

4. Batching.

5. Chemical Store.

6. Color lab section.

7. Dyeing Section.

8. Finishing section.

9. Quality control Section

10.Maintenance

11.Water Treatment plant

SUPPORTING DEPARTMENT

1. Procurement

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2. IE

3. Medical

4. Merchandising

5. Administration

6. Marketing

7. Security

8. IT

9. HRD

10. Finance & accounting.

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PLANT LOCATION

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KNITING SECTION

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ORGANOGRAM OF KNITTING SECTION:

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Helper

Operator

Supervisor

OfficerJunior Production

Asst. Production officer

Production officer

OfficerSenior Production

Manager

Assistant knitting

Knitting Manger

KNITTING

Knitting is the process of creating fabric by the intermeshing of loops of yarn. Each row of such loops hanging from the one immediately preceding it. There are two types of knitted fabric. Raw Material for Knitting The raw material for knitting is the yarn. Different types of yarn of wide range of count are used. In yarn store section we had the chance to know about different yarns of different count used in Fakir Apparels Limited. We also have known different yarn manufacturer/suppliers name for this knitting section i.e. sources of yarn. Both carded and combed yarn is used for knitting.

Cotton 24S, 26s,30S, 32S,34S,40S

Polyester 75D, lO0D Spandex yarn 20D,40D, 70D Grey Mélange (C 24S,26S

Ecru Mélange (C-85% V-15%) 24S,26S,28S

Anthra Mélange (C-65% V-35%) 24S,26S,28S

PC (65%Polyester & 35% cotton)24S,26S,28S,30S

CVC 24S,26S,28S,30S

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KNITTING SECTION IS DIVIDED IN FOUR SECTIONS:

1. Inspection section 2. Flat knitting section 3. Circular Knitting section 4. Store section

I. Cloth Inspection Section:In cloth inspection section three machines are available. Specification of those machines is given below

Type Cloth Inspection Machine Manufacturer name Uzu fabric Inspection

County Thailand Model No. UZ 900.31

2. Flat Knitting Section: Generally collar, cuff of knitted garments is produced in this section. In this section there are 25 flat knitting machines. All of them are same type and also have same specification. The specification of all machines is given below: Type Automatic Flat knitting machine Manufacturer name Precision Fukuhara Works Ltd. Country Japan Model No. \l-100 Gauge G143. Circular Knitting Section: This section contains 72 circular knitting machines. Circular knitting machines are of different types, made by different manufacturer and also have different specifications. In this section body fabric for knitted garments is produced. The different specifications of different machines are given one after another

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4. Store section: In this section knitted fabric and yarns are stored.

MACHINE LIST OF KNITTING SECTION IN FAL (Floor-1): Machine name Machine Quantity Circular Knitting(Single jersey) Machine

50

Circular Knitting(Rib) Machine 21 Engineering Stripe Machine 02 V-bed Knitting Machine 12 Grey Fabric Inspection Machine 03

SPECIFICATION OF CIRCULAR KNITTING MACHINE

Machine no: A1Machine type: Single jerseyBrand: Jiunn Long (JLS-C)Origin: TaiwanMachine dia &Gauge: 40”; 24GNo of Feeder: 120No of needle: 3000




Machine no: A5Machine type: Single jerseyBrand: Jiunn Long (JLS-C)Origin: Taiwan

Machine no: A6Machine type: Single jerseyBrand: Jiunn Long (JLS-C)Origin: Taiwan

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Machine dia &Gauge: 38”; 24GNo of Feeder: 114No of needle: 2880




Machine no: A9Machine type: Single jerseyBrand: Jiunn Long (JLS-C)Origin: TaiwanMachine dia &Gauge: 30”; 24GNo of Feeder: 90

Machine no: A10Machine type: Double JerseyBrand: Jiunn Long (JLD-2X4)Origin: TaiwanMachine dia &Gauge: 44”; 18GNo of Feeder: 88

No of needle: 2256 No of needle: 2484Machine no: A11Machine type: Double JerseyBrand: Jiunn Long (JLD-2X4)Origin: TaiwanMachine dia &Gauge: 42”; 18GNo of Feeder: 84No of needle: 2376

Machine no: A12Machine type: Double JerseyBrand: Jiunn Long (JLD-2X4)Origin: TaiwanMachine dia &Gauge: 40”; 18GNo of Feeder: 80No of needle: 2256

Machine no: A13Machine type: Double JerseyBrand: Jiunn Long (JLD-2X4)Origin: TaiwanMachine dia &Gauge: 38”; 18GNo of Feeder: 76No of needle: 2136




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No of needle: 2712 No of needle: 2712Machine no: B1Machine type: Single jerseyBrand: Jiunn Long (JLS-2)Origin: TaiwanMachine dia &Gauge: 26”; 24GNo of Feeder: 78No of needle: 1968

Machine no: B2Machine type: Single jerseyBrand: Jiunn Long (JLS-2)Origin: TaiwanMachine dia &Gauge: 28”; 24GNo of Feeder: 84No of needle: 2112

Machine no: B3Machine type: Single jerseyBrand: Jiunn Long (JLS-C)Origin: TaiwanMachine dia &Gauge: 23”; 24GNo of Feeder: 84No of needle: 2112




Machine no: B7Machine type: Single jerseyBrand: Jiunn Long (JLS-C)Origin: TaiwanMachine dia &Gauge: 32”; 24G


No of Feeder: 96 No of needle: 2400

No of Feeder: 90 No of needle: 2256


Machine no: B10Machine type: Single jerseyBrand: Fukuhara (MXC-DF3D)Origin: JapanMachine dia &Gauge: 34”; 20GNo of Feeder: 102No of needle: 2136

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Machine no: B13Machine type: Single jerseyBrand: Jiunn Long (JLS-32-4)Origin: TaiwanMachine dia &Gauge: 32”; 24GNo of Feeder: 96No of needle: 2400

Machine no: B14Machine type: Single jerseyBrand: Jiunn Long (JLS-C2)Origin: TaiwanMachine dia &Gauge: 26”; 24GNo of Feeder: 76No of needle: 1968

Machine no: B15Machine type: Single jerseyBrand: Jiunn Long (JLS34-4)Origin: TaiwanMachine dia &Gauge: 34”; 24GNo of Feeder: 102No of needle: 2563

Machine no: B16Machine type: Single jerseyBrand: Jiunn Long (JLS-36-4)Origin: TaiwanMachine dia &Gauge: 36”; 24GNo of Feeder: 108No of needle: 2712

Machine no: B17Machine type: Single jerseyBrand: Jiunn Long (JLS38-4)Origin: TaiwanMachine dia &Gauge: 38”; 24GNo of Feeder: 114No of needle: 2880



Machine no: B20Machine type: Single jerseyBrand: Jiunn Long (JLS)Origin: TaiwanMachine dia &Gauge: 38”; 24GNo of Feeder: 114No of needle: 2880

Machine no: B21Machine type: Single jerseyBrand: Jiunn Long (JLS-C)


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Origin: Taiwan Origin: Taiwan




Machine no: B24Machine type: Single jerseyBrand: Mayer & CieOrigin: GermanyMachine dia &Gauge: 30”; 24GNo of Feeder: 96No of needle: 2268









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No of Feeder: 102No of needle: 2544

No of Feeder: 102No of needle: 2544





Origin: TaiwanMachine dia &Gauge: 34”; 24GNo of Feeder: 102No of needle: 2544

Origin: TaiwanMachine dia &Gauge: 36”; 24GNo of Feeder: 108No of needle: 2712

Machine no: B37Machine type: RIBBrand: Maye & Cie (D4-2.2)Origin: GermanyMachine dia &Gauge: 36”; 18GNo of Feeder: 72No of needle: 1680Machine no: C1 Machine type: RIBBrand: Jiunn Long (JLD N1)Origin: TaiwanMachine dia &Gauge: 38”; 18GNo of Feeder: 76No of needle: 2136

Machine no: C2Machine type: RIBBrand: Jiunn Long (JLD N1)Origin: TaiwanMachine dia &Gauge: 38”; 18GNo of Feeder: 76No of needle: 2136

Machine no: C3Machine type: RIBBrand: Jiunn Long (JLD)Origin: TaiwanMachine dia &Gauge: 40”; 18GNo of Feeder: 80No of needle: 2256

Machine no: C4Machine type: RIBBrand: Jiunn Long (JLD 2X2)Origin: TaiwanMachine dia &Gauge: 42”; 18GNo of Feeder: 84No of needle: 2376

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Machine no: C9Machine type: RIBBrand: Jiunn Long (JLR 36)Origin: TaiwanMachine dia &Gauge: 36”; 16GNo of Feeder: 72No of needle: 1800

Machine no: C10Machine type: RIBBrand: Jiunn Long (JLD36- 2X4)Origin: TaiwanMachine dia &Gauge: 36”; 24GNo of Feeder: 72No of needle: 2712

Machine no: C11 Machine type: RIB

Machine no: C12 Machine type: RIB

Brand: Jiunn Long (JLD N1)Origin: TaiwanMachine dia &Gauge: 34”; 18GNo of Feeder: 68No of needle: 1920

Brand: Jiunn Long (JLD 2X2)Origin: TaiwanMachine dia &Gauge: 44”; 18GNo of Feeder: 88No of needle: 2484



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Machine no: C15Machine type: RIBBrand: Jiunn Long (JLR N1)Origin: TaiwanMachine dia &Gauge: 32”; 18GNo of Feeder: 64No of needle: 1800

Machine no: C16Machine type: RIBBrand: Jiunn Long (JLR34- 2X4)Origin: TaiwanMachine dia &Gauge: 34”; 16GNo of Feeder: 72No of needle: 2544


Machine no: C18Machine type: RIB AUTO STRIPPERBrand: FUKUHARAOrigin: Japan(VFY6)Machine dia &Gauge: 34”; 18GNo of Feeder: 68No of needle: 1922

Machine no: C19Machine type: Single jersey AUTO STRIPPERBrand: FUKUHARAOrigin: Japan(VFY6)Machine dia &Gauge: 34”; 18GNo of Feeder: 84No of needle: 2544

Others Machines in Knitting Section:

01. Gray Fabric Inspection Machine Brand: Uzu cloth inspection Machine Manufacturer: AATPR INDUSTRY CO.LTD. Model: UZ – 900-3

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Origin: Thailand. No. of Machine: 03

Sequence of Operations of Knitting Section:

Booking received from buyer

Make sample (R & D)

Sample approved

Work order

Planning

Bulk – production

Yarn package in cone form

Feeding the yarn cone in the creel

Feeding the yarn in the feeder

Cam Setting according to design

Knitting action perform

Withdraw the rolled fabric

Weighting

Numbering

Grey inspection

Dyeing & finishing

Final inspection

Packing

Delivery to Buyer

Procedure of Yarn Requisition of Knitting Section

Booking by merchandiser or marketing department

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Determination of yarn count by operation department

Giving requisition

Supply chain

Store receives as per invoice, packing list & L.C.

Issue

Sample to lab. For quality

Q.C. pass

Pass Fail

Stock gives MRIR Material return to supplier

Material input in ledger

Physically arrangement in stock as per location

Issue for knitting

PRODUCT MIX

SINGLE JERSEY S/J LYCRA S/J YARN DYED S/J POLO PIQUE SINGLE LACOSTE

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DOUBLE LACOSTE FLEECE LYCRA FLEECE

DOUBLE JERSEY

1×1 RIB 1×1 LYCRA RIB YARN DYED RIB 2×1 RIB 2×2 RIB 2×2 LYCRA RIB INTERLOCK

Type of Collar

TIPPING COLLAR SOLID COLLAR RAISING COLLAR PEACOT COLLAR WAISY BAND / HEM

CONSIDERABLE POINTS TO PRODUCE KNITTED FABRICS When a buyer orders for fabric then they mention some points related to production & quality. Before production of knitted fabric, these factors are needed to consider. These are follows

1. Type of fabric or design of fabric.

2. Fabric composition.

3. Finished G.S.M

4. Yarn count.

5. Types of Yarn (combed or carded)

6. Diameter of the fabric.

7. Stitch length.

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PRODUCTION CALCULATION A. Production/2 hours in kg

¿πDG X S . L(mm) X No .of feeder X RPM X 60 X 8 X Efficiency X Feeder /course (kg)

2.54 X 36 X 840 X Ne X 2.2046

B. Production/shift in meter: ¿ RPM X No .of Feeder X 60 X 12 X Efficieny

Coursecm

X 100

C. Fabric width in meter: ¿ Total No. of Needle

Walescm

X 100

TYPES OF KNIT FABRIC PRODUCED BY “FAKIR APPARELS LTD”

1. Double jersey

2. Single jersey

3. Various stripes.

4. Pique

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5. Double pique

4. Single Lacoste

5. Double Lacoste

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KNITTING FAULTS COMMONLY FOUND Drop Stitches (Holes)

Hole in fabric Major Causes:

• High Yarn Tension • Yarn Overfeed or Underfeed • High Fabric Take Down Tension • Defects like Slubs, Neps, Knots etc. • Incorrect gap between the Dial & Cylinder rings.

Remedies: 1. Ensure uniform yarn tension on all the feeders with a Tension Meter. 2. Rate of yarn feed should be strictly regulated as per the required Stitch

Length. 3. The fabric tube should be just like a fully inflated balloon, not too tight or too

slack. 4. The yarn being used should have no imperfections like; Slubs, Neps & big

knots etc 5. The gap between the Cylinder & the Dial should be correctly adjusted as per

the knitted loop size.

Barrie

Causes:

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• High Yarn Tension • Count Variation • Mixing of the yarn lots • Package hardness variation

Remedies: • Ensure uniform Yarn Tension on all the feeders. • The average Count variation in the lot should not be more than + 0.3

Ensure that the yarn being used for Knitting is of the same Lot. • Ensure that the hardness of all the yarn packages is uniform using a hardness

tester.

Streakiness

Causes:

• Faulty winding of the yarn packages. • Yarn running out of the belt on the Pulley Remedies:

• Winding of the yarn package should be proper. • The yarn should be running between the belt and around the pulley.

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BATCH SECTION

BATCHING OR BATCH

According to TextileGlossary.com –– “A group of units of products of the same type, structure, color and finish, class and composition, manufactured under essentially the same conditions and essentially at the same time, and submitted at any one time for inspection and testing.” Types of Batching:

1. Solid batch

2. Assort batch

Function or Purpose of Batch Section

- To receive the grey fabric, roll from knitting section or other source. - Turn the grey fabric if require. - To prepare the batch of fabric for dyeing according to the following

criteria – Order sheet (Received from buyer) • Dyeing shade (color or white, light or dark) • MACHINE capacity • MACHINE available • Type of fabrics(100% cotton, PE, PC, CVC) Emergency

- To send the grey fabric to the dyeing floor with batch card. - To keep records for every previous dyeing.

Proper batching criteria

- To use maximum capacity of existing dyeing Machine. - To minimize the washing time or preparation time & Machine stoppage

time. - To keep the no. of batch as less as possible for same shade. - To use a particular Machine for dyeing same shade.

Batch management

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Primarily batching is done by dyeing manager taking the above criteria under consideration. Batch section in charge receives this primary batch plan from dyeing manager. Sometime planning is adjusted according to Machine condition or emergency.

Machine used in the batching: 1. Back sewing Machine: Used to form tube fabric form from open fabric. 2. Reverse sewing Machine: Used only for single jersey fabric to replace the

back part with front part in dyeing of critical shade.

Batch calculation ratio:

No. of Batch=

Calculation for Rope Length: Rope Length (L) =

m.

In case of fabric in tube Dia, Rope length (L/) m For lycra = Process lost + 7% only full feeder lycra.

Loading/ Nozzle = m.

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COLOR LAB Color is the pre-stage of dyeing procedure. In color lab recipe is prepared for specific fabric to achieve desired shade or color according to the buyer.

SEQUENCE OF LAB OPERATIONS A number of operations are done in lab section. This are-

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Fabric is always recommended by buyer & dyes selection depends upon the technician decision. 1. Swatch receives: Swatch is received from the buyer & it comes to the lab

section through the merchandiser. 2. Fabric & dye selection: According to the buyer swatch , the type of fabric is

selected & the dye selection depends on the following factor:

a. The dye stuff contains “Metamerism” or not. b. The dye stuff is suitable for producing particular color. c. Sometimes buyers recommended the dye to produce particular color. d. The cost of dye stuff.

3. Recipe prediction: Recipe is determined by matching with reference book or

Spectrophotometer. a. By the spectrometer the std. of the swatch is saved in computer. b. Then by data color software after selecting the dye some recipes are found

with the best suitable recipe comes first & then others. c. If the recipe shows “Metamerism” then changes the selected dye.

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Dispatch

Dyeing

Sampling & pipetting

Recipe prediction

Fabric & dye selection

std. Or reflectance value)Swatch receives (physical

4. Sampling & pipetting: According to the recipe, the required fabric, dyes & chemicals are weighted & stock solutions are made. Then pipe ting is done according to the recipe. Stock solutions are made according to the recipe%. Such as-

For Dye

a. If recipe % (0.0001- <0.001) then stock solution % (0.01%) b. If recipe% (0.001- <0.1) then stock solution % (0.1%) c. If recipe % (0.1-0.8) then stock solution% (0.5%) d. If recipe% (0.9-4.9) the stock solution% (2.5%) e. If recipe % (≥5) then stock solution % (5%)

For Auxiliaries: Salt – 20% stock solution; Soda: 10% stock solution. Acetic Acid: 0.5 g/l; Detergent: 200ml/l; Leveling agent: 3.5 g/l;

Pipette use in lab section: 0.1 ml – 1 ml & 5 ml to 20 ml. 5. Dyeing: After completing pipe ting according to the recipe, the weighted

fabric is taken in sample dyeing Machine beaker & dyeing is completed. Here sample wt. 10gm & liquor ratio 1:8.

6. Dispatch: After completing dyeing, the samples are checked by spectrophotometer or by eye vision in verified matching cabinet. If it shows “Metamerism” then recipe correction is done & again samples are prepared until no “Metamerism” & shade match occur. Then in a lab dip card 3 samples are attached. One card is sent to merchandiser & another to buyer through merchandiser.

If the buyer chooses the sample then the recipe is send to the dyeing section for bulk production through lab dip program card.

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SPECTROPHOTOMETER The main function of spectrophotometer is to provide the best suitable recipe to dye sample comparing with corresponding standard. If the first recipe fails to fulfill the expectation then it corrects the recipe. Necessity:

a. Color matching is hard task so it makes the task easier. b. It saves our times which provide assistance on production process. c. It works upon some proved theory so the answer is approximately correct.

THEORY Spectrophotometer is based upon “Kubelka-mank” theory which builds up a relation between reflectance & concentration. The ““ Kubelka-mank” values (k/S) is calculated from the reflectance value of standard by the following equation—

Where, K = Absorption co-efficient of the sample. S = Scattering. R = Reflective value. Components

1. Computer, 2. Spectroflash, 3. CIE lab software.

WORKING PROCEDURE: 1. Calibration: The Machine is calibrated for different aperture view with three

different calibration standard, they are— a. Black b. Green. c. White.

Two types of view are mostly used. They are— Small aperture view (aperture is 9 mm in dia.) Large aperture view (aperture is 30mm in dia.) Valid time– The valid time for work can be varied according to the users. It can be set for 2, 6, and 8 hours or more. 27

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2. Data input: Self shades of particular company are prepared with various percentage in the lab & the reflectance value of each sample is scanned in spectrophotometer.

3. Reflectance value measurement of swatch: Buyer provides either color or

certain pantone number. This is set on to the spectroflash & the Machine will automatically calculate the reflectance value & saved it in memory.

4. Recipe giving: Considering all parameters we have to select suitable dyes & the Machine will show some possible recipes. The factor affects dye selection much is “Metamerism”.

5. Compare: After preparing the sample, the reflectance value of the samples are

compared with std. one, depending upon L* a* b* values the computer will show the dE value which represents the total color difference between the sample & the std.

If dE > 1 the color does not match. If dE ≤ 1 then color match. 6. Recipe correction: Depending upon the reflectance value & dE value the

computer corrects the recipe until acceptable dE value & color matching are not obtained.

VERIVIED CABINET

It is the cabinet where dyed or OBA applied samples are checked under different light sources either they show Metamerism or match with the swatch.

Light sources: a. D65, 2. TL84, 3. F, 4. UV.

Color temp: The temp. at which when a perfect at black body is heated then it emitted that type of light energy of specific wave length. Theory of color:

Pigment theory: According to this theory primary colors are Red, Blue, & Yellow & secondary colors are Violet or purple, Orange & Green. When these three colors are in equal amount we get black color. Black is called” It is presence of color absence of light” Yellow

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Black Blue Red Violet/ purple TERTIARY COMBINATION: Orange + Violet = Burgundy. Violet + Green = Grey. Green + Orange = Brown.

CIE Lab theory: In 1976 recommended the CIE lab system– White (L*=100) Green (a*-) Yellow (b* +) Blue (b*–) Red (a*+) Black L*=0

• There are three parameters calculated are L*, a*,b*. • L* is a vertical scale express lightness or darkness & Black L*= 0 & white L*

=100. a* vertical scale on L* means Red or Green. If a* += then it is Red & a* - =Green.

• b* vertical scale on a* means Blue or Yellow. If b* + = then it is yellow & b*– = Blue.

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Orange Green

The values of L*, a*, b* are calculated from the tristimulus values of the color (X, Y, Z) & each value being first divided by corresponding tristimulus values of the appropriate illuminate (Xn, Yn, Zn) .

1. L*=116 (Y/Yn)1/3 -16, 2. a* =500 ((X/Xn)1/3 –(Y/Yn)1/3) 3. b*= 200((Y/Yn)1/3 – (Z/Zn)1/3)

Recent LCH– Hue: Hue is the color of an object that we perceive. Value: value denotes the degree of lightness. Color can be classified as light or dark when we comparing the value. Example, when placing a tomato & reddish side by side in contrast the reddish has a dark red value. Chroma: The vividness or dullness of color describing its chroma. Again comparing the tomato & reddish the red of tomato is much vivid than reddish. Chroma C*ab = (a*2 +b*2)1/2 & Hue =tan-1 (b*/a*).

WORKING FLOW CHART OF COLOR LAB

Receive original swatch/QTX file/Pantone from

buyer

Collect 1st recipe by reference/Spectrophotometer

Calculate the recipe

Pipette by automatic dispensing system or by manually

Add fabric and auxiliaries on dye bath

Load into dye machine

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Unload time and temp. for dyeing in dye machine

Unload after dyeing

Cold wash

Acid wash

Cold wash

Hot wash with specific time and temp.

Cold wash

Squeezing

Drying

Ironing

Check lab dip in light box/spectrophotometer by

comparing with standard

Keep reference and submit lab dip for approval

Receive approved lab dip

Deliver recipe of approved lab dip to dyeing floor

LAB DYEING PROCEDURE FOR COTTON

WASHING OFF PROCEDURE 1. Cold wash is carried out after dropping the dye bath. 2. Then treated with 2g/l acetic acid for 2 min. 3. Then cold wash & soaping with 1 g/l soaping agent at 95°C/98°C for 15 min

(light shade) & 30 min (Dark shade). 4. Then wash with cold water, squeezing & drying.

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LAB DYEING PROCESS FOR LEVAFIX CA/ REMAZOL RR/ REMAZOL ULTRA RGB: 1. Add dye + auxiliaries + salt at room temp. 2. Add soda ash & set maximum gradient to reach up to 60°C. 3. At 60°C run 30 min or up to final shade. 4. Then bath drain. DYEING CURVE: 60°C Run 30 min Run 60-75 min

{Salt+ Auxiliaries+ Dye (Soda ash) Drain at room temperature}

LAB DYEING PROCESS FOR SUMIFIX EXF: 1. Add dye + Auxiliaries + Salt at 30°C & run 20 min. 2. Add salt at 30°C & run for 5 min. 3. Set gradient 1°/min up to 60° (for Turquise, yellow, & green temp. will be

80°C) & run 60 min (light shade) & 80 min (Deep shade).

80° C 75/ Run for dark Shade

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°C0

30°C {Dye+ Auxiliaries} LAB DYEING PROCESS FOR ALL DYE: Step by step method: 1. Add salt + Auxiliaries at 30°C & run for 20 min. 2. Add soda ash at 30°C & run for 5 min. 3. Set gradient 1°C up to 60°C. 4. At 60°C & run for 60 min or up to final shade.

1°C/min{Dye

+ Soda

Auxiliaries + Salt} ISOTHERM PROCESS 50°C/60°C: (REMAZOL RR/ REMAZOL RGB/ REMAZOL): {salt + Auxiliaries} Dye dosing 30/

Alkali

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Run/20 Run/5 Drain

Salt 1°C Drain

For light shade

Drain. ʹ run5 run ʹ20°C 30

(50°C/60°C) 45/– 60/ 30/ 100% cotton, bleached, non-mercerized; Liquor ratio– 1:10

Shade% < 0.1

0.1–< 0.5

0.5– < 1

1– <2 2–< 3 3–≤ 5 > 5

Salt g/l 20 20–25 25–40 40–50 50–60 60–80 80–100

Soda ash g/l 5 5 5 5 5 5 5Caustic Soda

50% ml/l0.9 0.9–1 1–1.2 1.2–1.5 1.5–2 2–3 3

Progression 70% 70% 50% 50% 50% 50% 50%Dosing time 60 60 60 60 60 60 45–60 Isotherm process 60°C (Levafix CA) {Salt

+Auxiliaries} {Dye dosing} Alkali 30 60 10ʹ 10ʹ 45ʹ–60ʹ 30ʹ

Soda ash/Caustic soda: Shade% < 0.1 0.1–0.5 0.5–1 1–2 2–3 3–5 > 5Salt g/l 15 15-20 20-35 35-50 50–60 60–80 80Soda g/l 5 5 5 5 5 5 5

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run /10 run/ 10

ʹ́́́́́́́́́́́́́́́́́́́́́́́́́́́́

Caustic 50%ml/l

– 0.6-0.75

0.75–0.9

0.9–1.2 1.2–1.5 1.5–2 2

Progression%

70 70 50 50 50 50 30

Dosing time 60 60 60 60 60 60 45-60 Levafix CA 60°C: Soda ash Shade% < 0.1 0.1–0.5 0.5–1 1–2 2–3 3–5 > 5Salt g/l 20 20–25 25–40 40–50 50–60 60–80 80–

100Soda g/l 5 5 5 5 5 5 5Progression% 70 70 50 50 50 50 30Dosing time 60 60 60 60 60 60 45-60 Temp. Rise process 70°C/80°C: Remazol Turquise Blue G & Remazol Briliant Green 6B

Alkali

add

70°/80°C

Drain 30°C ʹ ʹ ʹ 10 10 10 100% cotton bleached, non-mercerized, LR- 1:10:

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°C/min1

Salt +Auxiliaries} {Dye stuff dos} 1. Alkali add { )up to final shade( ʹ10

Shade% <0.1 0.1–0.5 0.5–1 1–2 2–3 3–5 >5

G. Salt g/l 20 20–25 25–40 40–50 50–60 60-80 80–100

Soda ashg/l

3 3 3–5 5–8 8–10 10–12 12–15

1.Alkaliadd(10/–30/)2.Alkaliadd(10/–30/) Salt & Soda recommendation: (sample wt. 5 gm) Shade% 0.001–0.01 0.1–<0.5 0.5–<1 1–<2 2–<5 5GlabuersSalt g/l

5 8 20 35 50 50

Glabuers salt solution20%(1:8)/(1:10)

1 cc 1.6 cc 4 cc 7cc 10cc 10cc

1.25 cc 2 cc 5 cc 8.7cc 12.5cc 12.5cc

Soda ash g/l

10 12 15 20 20 20

Soda ash10% Soln

1:8/1:10

4cc 4.8 cc 6 cc 8 cc 8 cc 8 cc

5 cc 6 cc 7.5 cc 10 cc 10 cc 10 ccSalt & soda amount in case of Mercerized & Un mercerized Sample: Shade Mercerized (g/l) Un mercerized (g/l)Light 5 3Medium 20 10Dark 20 10Over Dark shade 50 50 Amount of soda ash in case of Mercerized & Un mercerized Sample: :

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Shade Mercerized (g/l) Un mercerized (g/l)Light 8 10Medium 10 15Dark 18 20

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ORGANOGRAM OF DYEING FLOOR

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HelperMachine

Machine Operator

Suppervisor

OfficerJunior Production

Asst. Production officer

Production officer

OfficerSenior Production

Assistant Dyeing manger

Dyeing Manger

RESPONSIBILITY OF PRODUCTION OFFICER o Overall supervision of dyeing & finishing. o Dyes & chemicals requisition issue & check. o Program making, sample checking color measurement. o Control the supervisor’s operators & helpers of machines. o To give dye-line or the program slip according to daily production plan, batch preparation & PH check. o To rectify the finished fabric which rejected from quality control department o To check daily production report. o To study dye & chemicals nature delivery by the manufacture & applied them correctly to the production to get best product

JOB DESCRIPTION: Title: Production officer

Dept: Dyeing Report to: Senior production officer. Job summary: To plan execute & follow up the production activities &

control the quality production with related activities.

Title: Senior production officer Dept: Dyeing. Report to: Dyeing manager.

Job summary: To plan execute & follow up the production activities & control the quality production with related activities.

DUTIES & RESPONSIBILITIES

Overall supervision of dyeing, finishing production. Checks the different log books of different areas & report to management. Checks the sensitive parameters of different machine for smooth dyeing. Checks out the plan to control the best output from supervisor & workers. To trained up & motive the subordinates how to improve the quality

production. Maintenance of machine & equipment. Any other works & when required by

the management. Control the supervisors, operator, asst. operator & helpers of dyeing

Machine.

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DYEING MACHINE CAPACITY

Bulk Dyeing Machine Unit-1

Machine Number

Capacity in Kg

Machine Number: 01

300

Machine Number: 02

600

Machine Number: 03

600

Machine Number: 04

1000

Machine Number: 05

1000

Machine Number: 06

1000

Machine Number: 07

200

Machine Number: 08

200

Machine Number: 09

1500

Machine Number: 10

1500

Machine Number: 11

900

Machine Number: 12

600

Machine Number: 13

800

Total Capacity= 10,200

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Sample Dyeing Machine Capacity Unit-1 Machine Number Brand Capacity in KgMachine Number: 01 ATYC 55Machine Number: 02 ATYC 75Machine Number: 03 FONGS 150Machine Number: 04 FONGS 55Machine Number: 05 FONGS 60Machine Number: 06 FONGS 30Machine Number: 07 FONGS 30

Total Capacity= 455

Total capacity of Bulk dyeing & Sample dyeing machine= 10,655Kg

Bulk Dyeing Machine

Unit-2

Machine Number

Capacity in Kg

Machine Number: 01

250

Machine Number: 02

300

Machine Number: 03

300

Machine Number: 04

450

Machine Number: 05

1000

Machine Number: 06

600

Machine Number: 07

200

Machine Number: 08

200

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Machine Number: 09

2000

Total Capacity= 10,000

Sample Dyeing Machine Capacity Unit-2

Machine Number

Capacity in Kg

Machine Number: 01

30

Machine Number: 02

120

Machine Number: 03

120

Machine Number: 04

30

Bulk Dyeing Machine

Unit-3 Machine Number

Capacity in Kg

Machine Number: 01

750

Machine Number: 02

750

Machine Number: 03

750

Machine Number: 04

500

Machine Number: 05

500

Machine Number: 1000

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13Machine Number:

141000

MACHINE SPECIFICATION OF UNIT-1

MACHINE

No

Machine Brand

Origin No. Of Nozzle

Reel SpeedM/min

Total Capacity

in Kg1 ATYC Spain 1 140 3002 ATYC Spain 2 140 6003 ATYC Spain 4 140 6004 ATYC Spain 2 170 90005 Fong’s China 4 180 10006 Fong’s China 3 170 10007 AKM Taiwan 1 120 2008 AKM Taiwan 1 120 2009 Fong’s China 6 170 150010 Fong’s China 6 180 150011 Thies Germany 3 120 48012 Thies Germany 2 120 30013 Thies Germany 4 120 700


SL no Brand name


Reel SpeedM/min

Capacity(kg)

1 THIES Germany 1 120 1502 THIES Germany 2 120 3003 THIES Germany 2 120 3004 THIES Germany 3 120 5005 THIES Germany 4 120 5006 THIES Germany 5 120 800

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7 THIES Germany 4 120 6008 THIES i-

masterGermany 6 150 1600

9 Sclavos Greece 6 420 1500


MACHINE

No

Machine Brand


Reel Speed Total Capacity


2 Sclavos Greece 3 320 7503 Sclavos Greece 3 320 750

4 Sclavos Greece 2 320 5005 Sclavos Greece 2 420 500



RAW MATERIALS FOR DYEING

Raw materials are those, by using or processing which we get final product. In textile there are different types of raw materials. Such as- Yarn is raw material for fabric, dyes & chemicals are raw materials for dyed fabric. Dyed fabric raw material for garments etc.

RAW MATERIALS USED IN THE DYEING SECTION ARE: 1. Grey fabrics 2. Dyes

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3. Chemicals.

Grey fabrics FOLLOWING TYPES OF GRAY FABRICS ARE DYED IN FAL:

Single jersey Single jersey with Lycra Polo pique Waffle Single lacoste Double Lacoste Fleece Rib Rib with lycra 1Χ1 rib 2X2 rib Interlock etc

SOURCES OF YARN Source Origin Source OriginG.T.N India. PT INDORMA Indonesia.Perfect India. SQUARE Bangladesh.T.T India. SHOHAGPUR Bangladesh.AROTI India. RASHOWA Bangladesh.PAT SPIN India. WINSOM India.SPOT KING Indonesia. MALWA India.PT PASIFIC Indonesia. TARA Bangladesh.

DYE STUFF It was noted by Otto.N.Witt in 1876 that color in organic compound is associated with the presence of certain groups in the molecule. He designated the group as that produce color as a chromophore & a molecule containing such

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a group as chromogen. The most effective chromospheres are – Nitroso, Nitro, Azo, Carbonyl etc. Color substance should become a useful dye, the molecule should contain in addition to chromphore, some auxochrome groups. The most effective auxochromes are– Hydroxyl, Amino, Carboxyl, Sulphonic, group etc. DYES USED IN FAL–

1. Reactive dye (For Cotton). 2. Acid dye (For Nylon). 3. Disperse dye (For polyester).

Properties of Reactive dye:

• Soluble in Water & not to be hydrolyzed. • Capability of movement within the fiber structure. • Make covalent bond with fiber. • Dyeing carried out in alkaline condition. • Fastness properties are generally good. • Dyeing method is easy & easy applicable to cellulose as well as protein fiber. • All kinds of shade are found.

Properties of Acid dye: • Acid dyes are salt of sulphonic acid & carboxylic acid & their anions are

colored components • Soluble in water & are applied in acid medium. • It has affinity towards the protein fiber. • Light fastness is good. • It gives bright shades.

Properties of Disperse dye: • It is little bit soluble in water. • Fastness property is good. • It has sublimation property.

DYES LIST Sumifix Drimaren Remazol LevafixS.S Yellow EXF D.VioletK2RLCDG R. Yellow-RR L. first RED CAS.S Red EXF D. Red K-4BL R. Red-RR L. BR Yellow

CAS.S Blue EXF D.T Blue CLB R. Blue-RR L. Blue CAS.S Yellow 3RS D. Yellow CL-3GL R.G Yellow-RGB L. Amber CA

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S.S Red 3 BS D. Yellow CL2R R. Ultramarine RGB

L. Red CA

S.S Navy Blue BS

D. Blue CL-BR R. Red-RGB L. Yellow

S.S Brill Blue R D. Blue CLR R. Blue-BB L. ScarletS.S Brill Yellow 4GL

D. Blue CL-2RL R. Briblue-R L. Rubine CA

S.S Yellow 3RF D. Orange K3R R. Turblue-G L. Orange CA Ciba Sk Disperse Benzactive Terasil

C.Yellow F-4G

Sk.YellowBrown S-2RL

Dis K.B Blue Benzactive Blue SLF

T. Red FBN

C.Yellow S-3R

Sk Blue S-3Rf

Dis K.B Red RB Benzactive Red SLF

T.Rubine 2GFL

C.Red FN 3G

Sk Red SERPD

Dis K.B Orange Benzactive Yellow S-Max

T. Blue WBLS

C.Super BlackG

Sk Rubine S3GF

Dis K.B Navy BlueEXSF

BenzactiveCosmos S-Max

T. G Yellow

W3R

Turquish Acid Dye Black

Sk T-Blue S-GL-200% SS Black EXf Reactive black B-1500%

Remazol Tur-Blue G Acid Black LDN Ultrazol Black B-5.

Dyes origin Sumifix: Japan. Ciba: Switzerland. Drimaren: Germany. SK: Korea Remazol: Germany. Terasil: Switzerland Levafix: Germany. Benzactive: Switzerland.

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Terasil & Disperse dyes are mainly used for dyeing polyester. Acid dyes are used to Nylon. Sumifix, Drimaren, Remazol, Levafix, Ciba, Sk all these dyes are used to dyeing the Cellulose or Cellulose based fabric. CHEMICAL & AUXILIARIES: Chemicals & Auxiliaries Function1. Sunmoral CK-2/ Pitch run L-2/ NDA.

Wetting agent & Detergent.

2. Neocrystal DMBF. Sequestering agent.3. Invatex CS/ / Neocrystal 150F. Sequestering agent & wetting agent.4. Albatex FFC. Antifoaming agent.5. Pitch run L-100f. All remover it is mainly used for lycra

mixed fabric.6. Neorate PH 150F/ Neorate PH

55F. Stabilizer used during peroxide bleaching.

7. Caustic Soda/ Soda Ash. Give alkali media during reactive dyeing & fixation. It also used as saponification agent. Caustic Soda reduces the amount of Soda ash in same dyeing process where high amount Soda ash is used.

8. Hydrogen peroxide. Bleaching agent.9. Croaks NF/ Sodium Bisulphate. Peroxide killer, It is enzyme based

peroxide killer.10. Acetic acid. Give Acetic media & mainly used as

neutralizer.11. Bio touch C-35/ Bio touch C-30/Invazyme CEL.

Enzyme.

12. Hydrose. Reducing agent.13. Neocrystal-200 BF/ Cibacel DBC/

GSS/ Drimagen E3R.Leveling agent.

14. NicepoleD-1044/Lyocol-o-Powder/ Serabid MIP.

Anti creasing agent.

15. Serabid IPD/ Ladiquest/ Eganol PS Sequestering agent.16. Glabuer salt/ Serabid IPF/ San Salt LD4F

Electrolyte.

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17. NaHCO3. Used where slightly alkali media is required.

18. Soda Ash/ Meropen KP/ Sodium Acetate

Give alkali media during reactive dye fixation.

19. Lipotal PS 60-F/ Ladiquest. Multifunctional (wetting agent + detergent + sequestering agent).

20. Neo fix-R-250F. Fixing agent.21.

AlcamineCWS/ArristanHPC/Hydroperm SRHA.

Cationic Softeners.

22. Silicon Amzf/ Sunsofter. Softeners.23. Sirrix 2UD. Multifunctional.

FLOW CHART FOR DYEING

BATCHING

SELECT MACHINE NO.

FABRIC LOADING

SELECT PRODUCTION PROGRAMME

PRETREATMENT

SELECT RECIPE FOR DYEING

RECIPE CONFIRMED BY DM/PO

DYEING

POST TREATMENT

UNLOAD DEMINERALIZATION PROCEDURE OR LOADING HOT(COTTON) 1. Wetting agent (Sun moral CK–2) + Sequestering agent (Sarris 2UD) {Inject }.

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2. Temperature raises up to 50°C & run the process for 30 min. 3. Then drain the liquor. SCOURING & BLEACHING (COTTON) 1. Inject {Wetting agent (sun moral Ck-2)+ Sequestering agent (Neocrystal 150F)+

Stabilizer (Neorate PH–150F)+Anti-creasing agent (NicepoleD-1044)+ Anti–foaming agent (Albatex FFC) }

2. Temperature raises up to 60°C & run for 5 min. 3. Temperature raises up to 70°C with Caustic soda (10 min Linear) dosing & run

for 5 min. 4. Then H2O2 inject at 70°C. & PH =10-11 5. Temperature raises up to 95°C & run for 60 min. 6. Drop the temperature up to 80°C for sample check. 7. Drain the liquor. 8. Fill Machine with water & inject the peroxide killer (Croaks NF) 9. Temperature raises up to 80°C & run for 10 min. It will remove the un used

peroxide from the fabric. 10. Drain the liquor. 11. Then cold wash is given (5/-10/). BIO SCOURING (VISCOSE) 1. Inject {Wetting agent (sunmoral Ck-2)+ Sequestering agent (Neocrystal 150F)+

Anticreasing agent (NicepoleD-1044)+ Anti–foaming agent (Albatex FFC)} 2. Temperature raises up to 70°C & Caustic Soda (5 min linear) dosing. 3. Temperature raises up to 95°C & run for 5 min. 4. Drop the temperature up to 80°C for sample check. 5. Then drain the liquor. 6. Cold wash is given for (5/-10/). ENZYME WASH (COTTON) 1. Acetic acid inject at 35°C. 2. Temperature raises up to 62°C & keeping PH =4.5–5. 3. Enzyme (Bio touch C-35) is given in linear dosing process. 4. Run at 55°C for 60 min. 5. After that temperature raises up to 80°C & run for 10 min. 6. Drain the liquor. 7. Cold wash is given for (5/-10/).

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WASHING PROCEDURE 1. After B.D the fabric is washed with cold water. 2. Then it is neutralized by acetic acid. 3. After doing this fabric is soap washed at 80°C for 10/– 20/. SOFTENER APPLICATION 1. After washing softener is applied at 40°C for 20 min in acidic medium. 2. Softener dosing is done for 8 min. 3. After it the fabric is washed with cold water. STRIPPING PROCEDURE 1. Salt, caustic inject & temperature raise up to 95°C & run for 20 min. 2. Drain & again caustic inject, hydrous is given by dosing process & temperature

raise up to 95°C for 40 min. 3. Then drain, hot wash at 80°C & then cold wash.

PROCESS CURVE FOR SUMIFIX DYES (CRITICAL + SUPER CRITICAL)

Process:– 1. Inject Leveling agent, Anti-creasing agent, and Sequestering agent. 2. Check PH & Hardness level. 3. Color dosing linear –30 min.

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4. Salt dosing 8 min 10%, 30%, 60% progressive. 5. Check PH & Hardness level. 6. Soda dosing 1g/l – 30 min (linear). 7. Rest Soda dosing –60 min (70% progressive).

PROCESS CURVE FOR SUMIFIX (NORMAL COLOR)

Process:– 1. Inject leveling, anti-creasing & sequestering agents. 2. Salt dosing. 3. Check PH & Hardness. 4. Color Dosing -30/ (Linear). 5. Soda dosing -40 min 70% progressive

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PROCESS CURVE FOR (REMAZOL + LEVAFIX DYES):–

PROCESS: 1. Inject leveling, anti-creasing & sequestering agents. 2. Salt is injected. 3. Check pH & Hardness. 4. Color Dosing Linear. 5. Soda dosing 70% progressive 40 min.

PROCESS CURVE FOR (ALL GREEN + TURQUOISE COLOR)

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PROCESS: 1. Inject leveling, anti-creasing, sequestering agent. 2. Check PH & Hardness level. 3. Color dosing – (30 min) Linear. 4. Salt dosing – (8 min), 10%, 30%, 60% progressive. 5. Check PH & Hardness. 6. Soda dosing 1 g/l- (30min) linear & temperature gradient set 10C/min until 600C

is reached. 7. Rest soda dosing – (60 min) 70% progressive temperature gradient set 10C/min

until 800C is reached & then run the bath until the final shade has come.

PROCESS CURVE FOR WHITE

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Process:- 1. Leveling agent, Wetting agent, Sequestering agent, Anti- foaming agent is

injected. 2. Caustic soda dosing – (5 min) Linear. 3. Peroxide dosing -5 min. 4. OBA dosing -(20 min). 5. Then raised the temperature up to 950C run for 60/ then drop the temperature at

750C for sample cutting if matched un load the fabric.

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PROCESS CURVE FOR BLACK:

PROCESS: 1. Inject leveling agent, anti-creasing agent, sequestering agents anti foaming agent

etc. 2. Salt is injected. 3. Color dosing -25 min (linear). 4. Soda dosing–20 min (70% progressive). 5. Caustic soda dosing -20 min (70% progressive).

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PROCESS CURVE FOR POLYESTER:

Polyester dyeing is done with disperse dye at 1300C in acid medium. 1. At first fabric is hot washed at 800C with water. 2. Then dye, dispersing agent, acid is added & temp. Raise 1300C .At this temp.

Dyeing is done up to final shade.

DYEING PROCESS FOR POLYESTER & COTTON BLEND: In case of blend dyeing at first polyester part is dyed with disperse dye & then cotton part is dyed with reactive dyes. Dyeing of blended fabric “Single bath two stage of dyeing” method is followed.

THE FACTORS TO CONCENTRATE DURING DYEING

The operator should change the filter- After Enzyme wash After Drain dyeing Bath After Rinsing Bath

DYEING PARAMETER CONTROL CHART

Water level before fabric loading(Lit) Loading Time(min) Water level after fabric loading(after running 05 min) Dosing time of caustic Run time Dosing time of per-oxide Total time need to raise temp.of 105: Gradiant (Degree/min) Total run time(min) Total time need to cooling at 80c Gradiant (Degree/min) Total MIR /Rinsing time to 50c Total run time after acid dosing Check PH Total runtime after peroxide killer dosing Check residual per-oxide(ppm) CheckPHbeforeenzymedosing Total run time during enzyme

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DYEING

Water level (Lit) Check PH before color/salt dosing Total time for color dosing Total run time Total time for salt dosing Total run time Check PH after salt dosing Total time for soda dosing Check PH after soda dosing(AfterrunningtheMachine05min) Total time need to B/D Drain the Machine Total time for MIR/ Rinsing Drain the Machine Total time for acid Check PH and TDS(ppm) Temp for soaping Soaping time Drain the Machine 2ndsoapingtemp Soapingtime Drain the Machine Total MIR/Rinsing time

COMMON DYEING FAULTS WITH THEIR REMEDIES UNEVEN DYEING

Causes:

Uneven pretreatment (uneven scouring & bleaching). Improper color dosing. Using dyes of high fixation property. Uneven heat-setting in case of synthetic fibers. Lack of control on dyeing Machine

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Remedies:

By ensuring even pretreatment. By ensuring even heat-setting in case of synthetic fibers. Proper dosing of

dyes and chemicals. Proper controlling of dyeing Machine

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BATCH TO BATCH SHADE VARIATION Causes:

Fluctuation of Temperature. Improper dosing time of dyes & chemicals. Batch to batch weight variation of dyes and chemicals. Dyes lot variation. Improper reel speed, pump speed, liquor ratio. Improper pretreatment.

Remedies:

Use standard dyes and chemicals. Maintain the same liquor ratio. Follow the standard pretreatment procedure.

Maintain the same dyeing cycle. Identical dyeing procedure should be followed for the same depth of

the Shade

The pH, hardness and sodium carbonate content of supply water

should check daily.

Patchy dyeing effect

Causes:

Entanglement of fabric. Faulty injection of alkali. Improper addition of color. Due to hardness of water. Due to improper salt addition. Dye migration during intermediate dyeing.

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Uneven heat in the machine, etc

Remedies:

By ensuring proper pretreatment. Proper dosing of dyes and chemicals. Heat should be same throughout the dye liquor. Proper salt addition. Roll

to Roll variation or Meter to Meter variation: Causes:

Poor migration property of dyes. Improper dyes solubility. Hardness of water. Faulty Machine speed, etc

Remedies: Use standard dyes and chemicals. Proper Machine speed. Use of soft water

Crease mark:

Causes:

Poor opening of the fabric rope Shock cooling of synthetic material If pump pressure & reel speed is not equal Due to high speed Machine running

Remedies: Maintaining proper reel sped & pump speed. Lower rate rising and cooling the temperature

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Reducing the Machine load Higher liquor ratio

Dye spot: Causes:

Improper Dissolving of dye particle in bath. Improper Dissolving of caustic soda particle in bath.

Remedies:

By proper dissolving of dyes & chemicals By passing the dissolved dyestuff through a fine stainless steel mesh

strainer, so that the large un-dissolved particles are removed

Wrinkle mark Causes:

Poor opening of the fabric rope Shock cooling of synthetic material High temperature entanglement of the fabric

Remedies: Maintaining proper reel sped & pump speed. Lower rate rising and cooling the temperature

Higher liquor ratio

Softener Mark: Causes:

Improper mixing of the Softener. Improper running time of the fabric during application of softener. Entanglement of the fabric during application of softener

Remedies:

Maintaining proper reel sped & pump speed.

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Proper Mixing of the softener before addition. Prevent the entanglement of the fabric during application of softener

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FINISHING Textile finishing, in a restricted sense, is the term used for a series of

processes to which all bleached, dyed, printed and certain grey fabrics are

subjected before they are put on the market. In fact, finishing includes the

final treatment of every kind of fabric made from every kind of fiber

Objective of finishing:

Improving the appearance — Luster, whiteness, etc

Improving the feel, which depends on the handle of the material and its

softness , suppleness , fullness, etc.

Wearing qualities, none — soiling, anticrease, antishrink, comfort, etc.

Special properties required for particular uses — water — proofing, flame proofing, etc.

Covering of the faults in the original cloth.

Increasing the weight of the cloth.

Types of finishing:

1) Chemical finishing: a) Chemical reaction of auxiliaries with fibers. b) Application of the handle modifying products / additives. 2)

Mechanical finishing: • Mechanical treatment with machines

Finishing effects:

• Easy - care • Crease recovery.

• Dimensional stability.

• Good abrasion resistance.

• Improved tear strength.

• Good sew ability 74 | P a g e

• Soft or stiff handle.

• Shine or luster

The finishing method can be classified according to the special effects that they produce on the fabric. These effects include: a. Stabilizing effects. (Stentering, Mercerizing, etc). b. Textural effects. (Calendaring, Embossing). c. Functional effects. (Water repellent finish, Soil release finish etc). Organogram of Finishing Section:

On line System Off line system Jr. Supervisor

Sr. Supervisor / Supervisor Sr. Supervisor / Supervisor Quality Controller / Jr. Supervisor / Jr. Supervisor Asst. Quality Controller Quality Controller Quality Controller

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Sr. Supervisor / Supervisor /

Finished Fabric Finished Collar / Cuff

Sr. Principle officer (P.O) Manager

Executive Director (E.D)

Asst. Quality Controller Asst. Quality Controller

FLOW CHART OF FINISHING SECTION

FLOW CHART FOR PEACH FINISH/BRUSH:

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Inspection Final

Inspection Final

machineTube compacting

machineCompacting

Drying Machine Stentering

Dewatering machine Slitting machine

Tube fabric Open fabric

Finish fabric delivery.

Finish fabric store

chemical testFabric physical &

Finishing Section

Slitting ↓ Stenter ↓ Sueding/Raising ↓ Stenter ↓ Compacting

FOR LYCRA

Slitting ↓ Heat Setting ↓ Sewing ↓ Drying ↓ Slitting ↓ Stenter ↓ Compacting

SLITTING MACHINE Objects: a. To get open width fabric from tube form. b. To extract a level of water from the wet fabric by squeezing roller.

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c. To apply softener to get softness of fabric.

MAIN COMPONENTS 1. De-twister 2. Mechanical stretcher. 3. Fabric cutter. 4. Guide roller. 5. Tension roller 6. Dust remover. 7. Squeezer.

CUTTING SPEED

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For fabric cutting there remain a cutter & the cutting speed depends on type of fabric ie. (s/J or D/J). In case of S/j the speed is less than D/J.

TYPICAL SPEED Fabric type R.P.M S/J 60-65 D/J 80 To increase the production the speed is always remain in 80.

SOFTENER APPLICATION Recipes: C.W.S 20 KgSilicon 1 KgAcetic acid 200 cc.Water 300LTemp. 300 CPH 5.5-6 Note: - Softener should be dissolved in 900C with 100L water then add remaining water & apply for softness. PRESSURE ADJUSTMENT: Pressures in squeezing roller always remain between 4-4.5 bar. Note: - In special case where the shade need to be light then pressure must be increased according to the direction of upper level. PRECAUTION:

a. Cutter cut the fabric according to the needle drop mark, so the operator must be aware about it.

b. There remain no folding in the selvedge when the fabric through the squeezing roller.

STENTER MACHINE

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Object: a. To heat set lycra fabric. b. To dry open width dyed fabric. c. To maintain dia , GSM & bowing problem. d. To apply chemicals. MAIN COMPONENTS: a. Guide roller , b. Tension roller, c. Over feed roller, d. Under feed roller, d. Dancing roller. e. Padder, f. Steam applier, g. Selvedge cutter, h. Gumming wheel, i. Heating chamber, j. Blowers, k. Air joke, l. Sensor. HEAT SETTING Due to elasticity of lycra it can create problem in the long run. So by applying heat elastic property is reduced a bit & plastic property is brought. This process is known as heat setting. This process is also carried out for polyester. TYPICAL TEMPERATURE: For low gsm fabric : 1200C –1250C. For High gsm fabric : 1300C –1350C. For Lycra contained : 1850C – 2000C. For Polyester : 2000C – 2100C. For PC fabric : 1900C – 2000C. CONTROL OF SHRINKAGE, DIA, GSM OF FABRIC:

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According to the type of fabric dia, is set by increasing the existing fabric diameter. Thus everything is controlled by depending upon the dia setting & temp setting. FUNCTION OF SOME MAIN COMPONENTS: 1. Mahole arrangement:– If coarse line deviates from original position then by the

use of this we can release from this problem. 2. Chain: – It carries the fabric to the delivery zone through the chamber. 3. Blower: – The blowers protest the steam to move backwards when additional

steam is applied to the fabric. 4. Net: – Net collect dust from fabric when it passed through the chamber. 5. Gumming wheel:– To avoid curliness of selvedge, this wheel is used to apply

gum & cutter then cut this position.

STANDARD OPERATING PARAMETER FOR DIFFERENT FABRIC IN STENTER:

Fabric Type GSM Dia Temperat

ureOver Feed

Padder Pressue

Speed (rpm)

Blower rpm

Single jersey 115-150 2”+ 110-140 40-45% 2 bar 30-35 1100-1300

Single jersey 160-220 2”+ 120-170 40-45% 2.5 bar 25-30 1200-1400

Lycra Singlejersey

160-200 4”+ 130-160 50% 2 bar 25-30 1200-1400

Lycra Singlejersey

200-250 4”+ 140-160 50% 2 bar 24-28 1200-1400

Pique 160-200 3”+ 130-160 40-45% 1.5-2bar 25-30 1200-1400

Lycra Pique 190-220 4”+ 130-160 50% 2 bar 20-25 1200-1400

Fleece/Terry 260-300 4”+ 140-170 40-45% 2 bar 20-25 1300-1400

1x1 Rib 160-220 2”+ 130-160 45% 2 bar 24-28 1300-1400

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2x2 Rib 190-220 2”+ 140-160 45% 2 bar 20-25 1200-1400

Interlock 190-220 3”+ 130-160 50% 2 bar 20-25 1200-1400

*S/J fabric feed at 3-5 degree angle. *Others fabric feed, straight.

Precaution: 1. Fabric should be set in such a way that it could not be displaced. 2. Heat of different department should be gradually maintained. 3. Excess over feed should not provide to all types of fabric.

OPEN COMPACTOR

Object:

• To control Gsm, • Diameter & • Shrinkage of the fabric.

MAIN COMPONENTS: 1. Scroll roller. 2. Metal detector. 3. Guide roller. 4. Tension roller. 5. Steam applier. 6. Feed roller. 7. Tension roller. 8. Take up roller. Etc. OPERATING PARAMETERS: 1. Set the temperature between 1200C – 1300C for white & 1500C – 1600C for color

fabric.

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Temp. Increase with GSM & moisture content. 2. Over feed % is 10%–20% or more depends upon the finished G.S.M.

3. Speed depends on the finished gsm. They are vice versa.

SQUEEZER

Object: 1. To extract excess amount of water by squeezing. 2. To apply softener to the fabric. MAIN COMPONENTS: 1. De-twister, 2. Guide roller. 3. Immersion roller. 4. Tension roller. 5. Squeezing roller. 6. Shape. 7. Softener tray. 8. Ring. 9. Over feed plate. Roller speed:– For single jersey: (60–70) m/min. For double jersey: (50–55) m/min. Squeezing pressure:– Pressure always remains in first squeezing roller 4 bar & in second roller is 4.5 bar. OVERFEED: When there need to increase the width of fabric then feed roller feed more fabric to the next roller. In this way dimensional stability is gained. PRECAUTION:

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1. Chemicals should be changed every time when the roll is changed. 2. Diameter should be maintained. 3. Over feed section should be cleaned. Etc

DRYER

Objects: 1. To dry the fabric. 2. To make the fabric wrinkle free. Main Components: 1. Tension roller, 2. Feed roller, 3. Conveyor. 4. Net. 5. Blower. 6. Scroll roller.

Temperature & speed: Temperature depends on the type of fabric. For S/j & D/J it remains 1350C –1600C & 1400C– 1700C respectively. Speed for S/j & D/J 8-12 m/ min & 5-9.5 m /min respectively. Precaution: 1. Fabric should not contain any wrinkle when it is feed to the conveyor. 2. Temperature should be controlled according to the type of fabric.

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TUBE COMPACTOR

Object: 1. To control gsm, dia, & shrinkage of the fabric.

Main components: 1. Feed roller. 2. Shape. 3. Guide roller. 4. Tension roller. 5. Steam applier. 6. Feed roller. 7. Conveyor. 8. Take up roller. 9. Compacting shoe. Etc.Shape: It is used to maintain the fabric diameter. There are various types of shape:- Diameter Spreader type14–17 A16–19 A17–20 A19–25 B22.25–28.25 B

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26–36.75 C34.75–47 D45–57 ECompacting roller pressure: Roller pressure far– 20 psi Roller pressure near– 25 psi Shoe pressure – 30 psi Temperature: Compacting shoe ≥ 700C. Feed roller ≥ 900C. Retard roller ≥ 900C.

Precaution: 1. Compacting roller pressure should be adjusted with far & near roller. 2. Care should be taken that over or loss compaction does not occur. 3. Care should be taken about gsm, temperature, dia. 4. Steam should be applied according to the required softness of the finished

product. STANDARD OPERATING PARAMETER FOR DIFFERENT FABRIC IN OPEN COMPACTOR

Fabric type

Color Speed Over Feed

Temperature

Blanket Pressure

Teflon Pressure

Single jersey

White Color

15-18

15-18

25-30

25-30

90-110110-120

1.5-2bar

36psi

Pique(s/j,d/j)

White Color

15-18

15-18

30-35

30-35

100110-120

1.5-2bar

36psi

Lycra s/j White Color

12-16

Full over

100-110 100-120

1.5-2bar

36psi

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12-16 feed1x1 Rib White

Color15-20

15-2020-30

20-30

100110-120

1.5-2bar

36psi

2x2 Rib White Color

12-1512-15

25-30 2530

100 110-120

1.5-2bar

36psi

Interlock

White Color

12-1612-16

Full over feed

100 110-120

1.5-2bar

36psi

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LABORATORY MACHINERIES WITH ITS SPECIFICATION

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QUALITY LAB

1. Tearing Strength Tester: Brand Name :Elmatear Origin : U.K

2. Bursting Strength Tester: Brand Name : TruBurst Origin : U.K

4. Pilling Resistant Tester: Brand Name : Impulse Origin : U.K

5. ICI Pilling Resistant Tester: Brand Name : SDL ATLAS Origin : U.S.A

6. Crockmaster:

Brand Name : SDL Origin : U.S.A

7. Yarn evenness tester:

Brand name: SDL ATLAS Origin : U.S.A

8. Wrap reel Yarn Count Tester:

Brand name: SDL ATLAS Origin : U.S.A

9. Weight Cutting Machine (GSM):

Brand name: Samsung Origin : South Korea

10. Thermograph:

Brand name: SK Sato 89 | P a g e

Origin : U.S.A

TEST NAME: COLORFASTNESS TO WASHING, DRY CLEANING.

Name of the Machine: Rota Wash Origin : U.K Test Method :ISO105-C06, ISO105-D02

TEST NAME: DIMENSIONAL STABILITY, SPIRALITY, AND APPEARANCE AFTER WASHING. Name of the Machine: Eltrolux wascator.

Origin : U.K Test Method : ISO 6330, ISO 26330

TEST NAME: SHRINKAGE

TEST. Name of the Machine: Eltrolux

Origin : U.K

Test Name: Color Fastness to Wash Test. Name of the Machine: Gyrowash

Origin : U.K Test Method : ISO 105-C06

TEST PERFORMED IN QUALITY LAB

1. Yarn count test. 2. Evenness test of yarn.

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3. Fabric GSM tests. 4. TPI test. 5. Calculation of shrinkage & Twist % of garments. 6. Pilling test of fabric. 7. PH test 8. Color fastness to Rubbing. 9. Color fastness to Light. 10. Color fastness to Washing. 11. Color fastness to perspiration. 12. Formaldehyde test ISO 14184–1 JISA JISB 13. Test for phenolic yellowing ISO 105 X 18.

YARN COUNT TEST

Yarn count is tested by the wrap reel & weight balance. At first yarn is wrapped on the wrap reel. For 110 revolutions, 110 meters wrapped in wrap reel. Then yarn is weighted by balance in gm, & count is measured in direct system (Tex). After this count is converted in to indirect system (Ne).

Conversion formula: Ne=

EVENNESS TEST OF YARN

Evenness is tested by the Evenness tester. Yarn is wound on evenness tester board & then evenness is measured by the evenness testing scale. Evenness is graded by A, B, C, & D. A indicates even B indicates moderate C indicates average D

indicates uneven. No of scale:- Different scales for different count of yarn.

1. Scale for count ranges from (12+ to 24 Ne or 50 to 25+ Tex). 2. Scale for count ranges from (24+ to 36 Ne or 25 to 16+ Tex). 3. Scale for count ranges from (36+to 50 Ne or 16 to 12+ Tex). Note:

Sometimes evenness may be graded as A+, B–.

FABRIC G.S.M TESTS

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At first fabric is cut by G.S.M cutter. Weight is measured by weight balance. Then G.S.M is measured by following procedure. Area = 2 Here AB = Diameter (say 11.3 cm)

r = Radius & weight = 2.1 gm

Now Area = π×(5.65 cm)² =100 cm² So, G.S.M = (weight× 100) = 210 gm

TPI TEST

TPI means the no. of twist per unit length of yarn. It is measured by TPI tester. At first sample of specific yarn is placed between jaw & clamp & distance between them is 10 inch. Twist is counted by de-twisting & re-twisting process. Then TPI is measured by dividing the total no. of twist by 10.

CALCULATION OF SHRINKAGE %

After washing fabric has a natural tendency to shrink. It is ratio of the change in dimension of the garments after wash & before wash. It is expressed in percentage.

Shrinkage% = Fabric or garments is pointed with the measurement 30cm × 30 cm. Then it is washed with the persil detergent 10gm/l in washing Machine. Washing time & temperature are given below:

Temperature Time300C 28 min400C 45 min

600C 55min

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Then drying is done either Tumbling or Line drying or flat drying depends on the buyer requirement. In case of tumble dry – 600C × 50/ In case of flat dry – Normal temperature × (7-8hr) In case of line dry– Normal temperature × (7-8 hr).

CALCULATION OF TWIST% OF GARMENTS

After washing due to any problem related to yarn, seam line may deviate from its position in the garments. This problem is known as twisting. Twisting is defined as the ratio of the deviation of the seam line to its original length or width. It is expressed as–

Twist % = Where A= Measurement of seam line deviation. B= Exact measurement of length or width before washing. Some buyer recommends body length measurement. B= Exact measurement of length before washing. Some buyer recommends bottom length measurement then– B= Exact measurement of width before washing. Acceptable limit of twist % depends on buyer.

PH TEST First distilled water is taken & PH is controlled between 5.5–7.5. From this controlled water 50 ml water is taken & 2 gm of small piece of fabric is immersed in water for 12 hr. Then PH is checked again by PH meter. If it is found that PH is between 5.5–7.5 then it is accepted but if it is greater than7.5 then it is rejected.

PILLING TEST OF FABRIC Pilling test is done by ICI Pillbox. It gives an idea about the hairiness.

TEST PROCEDURE

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At first fabric is cut according to template (12.5 ×12.5). Now the sample is sewn around a rubber tube & set in the pilling tester. The main mechanism is that when the box rotates then friction takes place between the rubber tube & inside Machine surface. After a number of rotations the hairiness is compared with pill scope. Number of revolution depends on buyer. Some buyer demands 14400 rev. which takes time 4hr & some buyer demands 7200 rev. which takes time 2 hr. Some demands 10800 rev. which takes time 3 hr. Grade of pill scope:– 1–> very bad. 2–> Bad 3–> Average. 4–> Good. 5–> Excellent. TESTING PROCEDURE OF FORMALDEHYDE (ISO14184):–

For Baby = 20 ppm Adult = 75 ppm

COLOR FASTNESS TO RUBBING This test is performed by using the crock meter.

TEST PROCEDURE A sample of 15cm × 8 cm is placed on the base of crock meter. Then rubbing cloth of 5cm × 5 cm is clamped under the finger of the crock meter. Then 10 rubbing action is performed between 13.5 cm × 2.5 cm area are tested sample by moving the handle of crock meter within the 10 sec.

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present in the fabric or garments.If yellow color turn then formaldehyde

Spectrophotometer (10ml sample).

R).Cooling/C 300(40 ml extraction & 3 ml Narshing agent 3

C).040 ×Water extraction ( 1200 PSI

cm5 ). ×Sample collect (10cm

The test is performed in two ways. Either in dry or wet rubbing. It is based on the buyer recommendation. Then staining & color change is measured & rating is given by comparing with grey scale.

Grey scale rating Fastness5 Excellent4 Good3 Average2 Bad1 Very bad.

COLOR FASTNESS TO WASHING

Color fastness to washing can be performed either in washcator Machine or infrared dry Machine. In case of garments washcator is used in case of fabric & accessories infrared dryer is used. PROCEDURE FOR WASHCATOR A sample of multi fiber of 10cm × 4 cm is taken & sewn to each garment. Then 10 gm Persil detergent is taken for each wash. The Machine is run for specific time & temp & it is depends opn the buyer recommendation. Typical temp. are 300C, 400C, 500C, 600C. Then staining & color change is count & rating is given by comparing with grey scale. PROCEDURE FOR INFRARED DRYER A sample of multi fiber of 10cm × 4 cm is taken & sewn with multi-fiber same measurement Then washing solution is prepared with following recipe:- Water – 1 liter. Sodium perborate– 1 gm/l ECE (detergent)- 4 gm/l In a beaker solution is taken according to the liquor ratio 1:10 & the sample is immersed in it. Then the beaker is set in the beaker holder in Machine & run for 30 min at 600C. Then the fabric is dried & staining & color change is measured & rating is given by comparing with grey scale.

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COLOR FASTNESS TO PERSPIRATION For this test artificial perspiration solution is prepared. It may be acidic or alkaline. Typical recipes are– Components Acidic Alkaline1. L histamine mono hydrochloride monohydrate 0.5 gm 0.5 gm2. Di-sodium Hydrogen orthophosphate 2.5 gm3. Sodium Hydrogen orthophosphate 2.2 gm.4. Sodium chloride 5 gm 5 gm5. Water 1 L 1 L6. PH 5.5 8 In a beaker sufficient amount of solution is taken. Then a sample (10 cm × 4 cm) is immersed in to the solution for 30 min. Then the sample is taken out & place between two glass plates. Then 5 kg weight is placed over it & kept in the incubator at 37± 20C for 4 hr. Then the sample is taken out & the result is measured by comparing with the grey scale.

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GARMENTS CUTTING SECTION

M/C Specification: Auto Spreader (2):

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M/C No.: 01 Brand Name: Gerber Spreader Country: Germany Year of Manufacturing: 2006 M/C No.: 02 Brand Name: Gerber Spreader Country: Germany Year of Manufacturing: 2006

Hand Cutter : Brand Name: Mack Country: Japan Speed: 3000/3600 Volt: 220 Frequency: 50/60 Hz Phase:1 Blade: Straight bar blade

Auto Cutter (1): Brand Name: Gerber Country: Germany

Cutting department receives Tech Pack from merchandiser and PP sheet of a style from IE.

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Cutting department checks whether sample, master pattern and fabrics are ready or not.

If ready cutting department collects sample, marker and fabric (for size set) from the sample section, CAD section and fabric store.

Cutting department gives a lay for size set sample, cut, sew in the size set line, print, wash, embroidery all are done and measurement are taken in all the

steps.

If it is found that an adjustment is required in the master pattern, then cutting manager, buyer QC and pattern master check and make necessary correction

as per grading and informs pattern and CAD section.

Then cutting department collects fabrics for bulk production from store and checks whether the GSM of every roll is fine or not and check the width of

fabric for that lot.

If fabric GSM is ok, cutting department sends information to CAD section

containing in which width and ratio of fabric they are going to cut that particular cutting.

CAD prepares marker and If in that style self-fabric for neck issends it to cutting section required, cutting in charge informs the

machine operator to keep particular amount of fabric each roll.

Spreading starts and completed.

Marker is placed on the lay and then costape is attached.

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Cutting starts and completed.

Cutting parts are transferred A Spread containing number of layerto stickering table. That cutting, how many parts in a

garments go to the stickering section.

Stickers are made ready. Bundle cards are made ready.

Stikering starts and completed and Bundle cards come to bundle area.sticker attached parts are send tobundling area.

Bundling starts and completed. Rejection cutting starts and completed.

If other operations are needed such as Print, Embroidery, cutting dept. sends the cut panels Solid Parts.to the store and later collects them from the store and checks whether there is any alter or not.

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Print and Embroidery panels are checked and if some alter and rejects are found the Store in the cuttingbundle cards are re-written making input rack.necessary adjustments.

PRINTING SECTION

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General Overview

Area Covered= 2 flo0r Manpower=450 Per table=12-13

Auto screen m/c=5 Heat press m/c= above 8

Curing m/c=2-3 Capacity of Printing= 100,000 pcs per day

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Machine Type Machine information NO. of M/CScreen shot Auto screen shot 4

Manual screen shotDrying Auto dryer 4

Hand dryer 100Expose shot Auto expose shot 1

Manual expose shot 3Heat press Depends on pressure &

temp. range8

Curing Depends on temp. & belt speed

3

Printing System Hand screen printing Sereen Printing Automatic Flat (Revolving) screen printing

TYPES OF PRINTING: Rubber printing Foil printing Pigment printing Metallic printing Flock printing Photo printing Burnout printing Glitter Printing Silicon printing High density printing Volcanic pinting Discharge print

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Puff print Plastisol print Crack print Gel print Sticker/transfer print Reflective

Machine Brand: Alpha 8 by M&R companies.

Machine Brand: Schenk-Spider.

FLOW CHART OF PRINTING SECTION

Artwork from merchandiser

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↓ Design input

↓ Design development

↓ Positive/film

↓ Print taken

↓ Requisition by merchandiser

↓ Panel(cutting fabric parts)

↓ Expose(frame adjusted)

↓ Fila and frame adjusted

↓ Water spray

↓ Panel send to buyer

↓ Buyer approval

↓ Sale sample

↓ Counter sample

↓ P P production

↓ Accessories booking

↓ Requisition by merchandiser for fabric

↓ Fabric received and store

↓ Count the fabric

↓ Inspection the fabric

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↓ Fabric adjusted

↓ Bulk production start

↓ Hydro extractor from dryer

↓ Inspection

↓ Finishing

↓ Delivery

DESIGN

Artwork receive from development ↓

Detail design perform & analyze by Adove photoshop & illustrate ↓

Prepare individual film for different color by work express software ↓

Send to expose room

SCREEN PREPARATION:

Mesh fabric tight with frame

Applied chemical TXR (sensitizing emulsion) on the mesh & dried 8 min in air.

Placed design paper under the mesh.

Light passes through the design paper & mesh fabric for 3-4 min.

Remove the colored TXR from the design area by water spraying.

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SEQUENCE OF PRINTING

Count garment parts

Screen preparation Printing paste preparation

Applied garment part on the printing bed by (adhesive) gum in the marked

portion

Printing the garment part by using screen

Drying the printed portion by hard dryer applying hot air flow

Curing the printed portion by passing through the conveyor dryer at 1600 - 1800 c

Inspection is done in qualify control department

PROCESS FOR FOIL PRINTING

Add adhesive on the require design by screen

Place the fabric part on to the Pressing M/C

Pressing the upper part of the M/C at 100PSi, Temp-1500 For-6 Sec

EXPOSE ROOM

Mesh fabric NO. Print Type10,12 Glitter

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14 Afsan, Discharge pigment16,20 Rubber,Puff, High density, Foil, Gel,

Plastisol,Reflective, Crack

PRINT WISE CURING

Print type Temperature Belt speed

m/minDuration(sec)

Rubber 150-160 4-6 30-45Pigment 140-150 4-6 30-45Plastisol 180-200 4-5 36-45

Discharge 180-200 3.5-4 45-52Puff 170-180 3.5-4 45-52

Glitter 150-160 4-6 30-45Reflective 160-170 4-6 30-45

High density 180-200 3.5-4 45-52Gel 170-180 4-5 36-45

Afsan 150-160 4-6 30-45

COMMON PRINT DEFECTS Measuring fault Print missing Wrong color Hand feel not correct Color migration problem Not properly attach Dirty marks Uneven print Air bubble Air hole Shade variation

MAJOR CAUSES OF PRINT DEFECTS

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1. Screen & print body are not in same axis 2. Irregular wash of screen frame 3. Wrong color recipe 4. Insufficient drying of previous color 5. Inaccurate composition of fixture 6. Improper heat & pressure 7. Dirty environment

AUTO SCREEN SHOT

1. Faster production 2. High color combination 3. Immediate drying between two consequetive print

Not suitable for- Large & complete body print

High density, flock & multiple color, discharge print.

MANUAL SCREEN SHOT

1. Generally all types of print are performed 2. More time consuming 3. Drying performed by hand or auto dryer

HEAT PRESS Machine

1. GENERALLY USED FOR Foil & Sticker print 2. Matt & glossy appearance also provide by this technique

3. Print performed at a certain temp. & pressure

DRYING 1. Hand drying 2. Auto drying It is performed to dry previous color temporally

Color migration occurred due to improper drying of previous color CURING

Curing is the ultimate drying of print Proper curing is the vital issue for a quality print

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Curing also liable for fabric shade change due to high temp.

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Education

Textile Internship Report (Part-2)