Pad Final Doc

8/2/2019 Pad Final Doc

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Acknowledgement

We take this opportunity to thank our faculty Mr. C. A. Rayan, A s s o c i a t e P r o f e s s o r ,

f o r m e r R I C a n d o u r s u b j e c t f a c u l t y , w h o t o o k a l l pain and left no stone

unturned in giving us the theme and concept behind the subject.

Whenever w e came under any difficulty he was always there not just to solve our

problem but also to show and guide us along the correct path .

We would also like to express our gratefullness to Mr. Shivlingam, Course Co-ordinator, Fashion and Textile Design for taking time from his busy schedule to explain

us the tests which are foremost and important in garment manufacturing process.

We would also like to express our gratitude to Mr. Shashi Bhusan, GM-SilverSpark

Apparels,Raymonds Ltd. who took time in his busy schedule to come and explain to us

the product development and analysis process.

NishantKumar

Rahul Choudhury


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Contents1.

Introduction .................................................................................................................................................... 5

1. 1. Subject brief ................................................................................................................................ 5

1. 2. Objective......................................................................................................................................... 5

1. 3. Scope of Learning ............................................................................................................................ 5

1 . 4 . Trousers ...................................................................................................................................... 6

1.5. Product History ................................................................................................................................ 6

2. Product Analysis ...................................................................................................................................... 9

2.2. Reason for choosing the garment ................................................................................................................... 9

2.3. Process of Product Development ..................................................................................................... 11

2.4. Garment components classification:............................................................................................... 12

2.5 Garment component details: ........................................................................................................ 12

2.6Process of conversion ..................................................................................................................... 13

2 .7 Product Specification Sheet ............................................................................................................... 15

3. Test Report ................................................................................................................................................ 23

4. Raw Material Analysis ............................................................................................................................... 26

5. Sourcing .............................................................................................................................................. 27

6. Bill 0f Material ................................................................................................................................... 35

7. Operation Breakdown ................................................................................................................... 37

8. Production planning......................................................................................................................... 40


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Introduction

1. 1. Subject brief

The product analysis and developmentis aimed at developing the garment

from a given sample. The main idea behind the subject is to simulate a situation

when an individual desiring to establish his own garment unit undergoes various

research and other processes involved in the whole development process.The various processes include fabric selection, fabric sourcing, trim selection and

sourcing, fabric and trims testing, development of sample production planning for

bulk production (10,000pcs) and product repl icat ion etc.

The garment we selected for our Product Analysis and Development is a mens formal trouser of size 34

1. 2. Objective

To understand the methodology of development of the product.

To understand the raw materials in terms of their content,performance,care and

maintenance for the intended end use.

To explore the sources, costs and time for procurementof the raw materials.

Understand the Communication Pattern with Buyers & Deepen the understanding of

interaction between various functions (Depts.)

To analyse the garment from an aesthetic and functional view point.

To develop an industrial pattern and mock sample and analyze it.

To develop the sample according to sample specifications

To understand and become familiar with t h e process requirements for the

production of the garment.

1. 3. Scope ofLearning

The subject is providing a great scope to learn how the garment production

process starts from scratch. Starting from the very beginning of design concept,

which begins in the design studio of the buyer, and then goes from the rigorous

process ofsourcing, cutting, manufacturing, warehousing, shipping and then supplying

to each stores. The subject tries to give us practical experience by simulating the

s i m i l a r situation o n a smaller scale.

The garment w h i c h we have chosen, we will be doing so urc in g , pattern making,tech pack generation, and then sewing and packing. This whole simulation process

will give us the edge, and make us face and solve the problems which occur in garment

manufacturing units.


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1. 4. Trousers

In our course of product analysis and developmentwe chose to design and

make a formal mens trouser. A trouser is a cloth garment for the lower body.

Trousers are an item of clothing worn on the lower part of the body from the waist to the

ankles, covering both legs separately (rather than with cloth stretching across both as in

skirts and dresses). The word trousers is used in the UK and Ireland, but some other

English-speaking countries such as Canada, South Africa, and the United States can also refer

to such items of clothing as pants. Additional synonyms include slacks, strides, kegs or kex,

breeches or breeks. Shorts are similar to trousers, but with legs that come down only to

around the area of the knee, higher or lower than the knee depending on the style of the

garment.

In most of the Western world, trousers have been worn since ancient times and throughout

the Medieval period, becoming the most common form of lower body clothing for males in

the modern period, although shorts are also widely worn, and kilts and other garments may

be worn in various regions and cultures. Shorts are often preferred in hot weather or for

some sports, and also often by children. Since the late 20th century, trousers have become

prevalent for females as well. Trousers are worn at the hips or waist, and may be held up by

their own fastenings, a belt, or suspenders (braces). Leggings are form-fitting trousers of a

clingy material, often knitted cotton and lycra.

Nowadays various man-made fabrics like polyester, viscose etc. or their blends are used in

creating trouser of better quality and functionality

1.5. Product History

Trousers first enter recorded history in the 6th century BCE, with the appearance of horse-

riding Iranian peoples in Greek ethnography. At this time, not only the Persians, but also

allied Central Asian peoples such as the Bactrians, Armenians, and the Tigraxauda Scythians

are known to have worn them. Trousers are believed to have been worn by both sexes

among these early users.

The ancient Greeks used the term anaxyrides for the trousers worn by eastern nations

and " sarabara for the loose trousers worn by the Scythians.

Republican Rome viewed the draped clothing of Egypt, Babylon, Greece, and Minoan (Crete)

culture as an emblem of civilization and disdained trousers as the mark of barbarians.

About 1760 most men begin wearing breeches, a tight garment worn from the waist to the

knee with stockings covering the rest of the leg, "Britches" was an informal word for

breeches. Prior to this men were wearing various form if skirts and dresses (but that's

another story).

Pantaloons (where we get the word pants) were made popular in 1812 by George Bryan

"Beau" Brummell who wore his with a foot strap (like modern ski pants) to keep the pants

tight and avoid creases. Brummell, buddy to the future Hind George IV, developed a dress


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code that anyone, not just royalty, could follow. He dispensed fashion tips and stressed

cleanliness (a novel idea for the time).

During the French Revolution, the male citizens of France adopted a working-class costume

including ankle-length trousers, or pantaloons, in place of the aristocratic knee-breeches.

The new garment of the revolutionaries differed from that of the ancien regime upper

classes in three ways: It was loose where the style for breeches had most recently been

form-fitting, it was ankle length where breeches had generally been knee-length for more

than two centuries, and they were open at the bottom while breeches were fastened. This

style was introduced to England in the early 19th century, by Beau Brummell, and by mid-

century had supplanted breeches as fashionable street wear. At this point, even knee length

pants adopted the open bottoms of trousers and were worn by young boys, for sports, and

in tropical climates.

Pantaloon first appeared as an English word in the 1600's and from the Italian comedy

character Pantaleone who wore the first loose "clowns pants". Eventually the characters

name came to mean the pants he wore. In England pants still refers only to underwear.

The French revolution of 1789 was also a revolt against breeches as being too upper class.

The country peasant trouser look was in.

Trousers probably derived from the words trousers-- drawers, trousses--trunk hose, and/or

trousse--to cover, truss. They were looser than the tight pantaloon were favored for daytime

wear while pantaloons were more evening attire. Trousers were over breeches when

horseback riding to keep the more formal clothes clean.

Sailors had been wearing the looser fit work trousers since the 1580s since they allowed

them to roll up the legs for wading ashore or climbing rigging.

In 1846 Sir Harry Lumsden, commanding as English troop in Punjab, India traded in his

bright white trousers for pajama bottoms to find relief from the heat. To disguise them he

colored them to blend with the local terrain using mazari, a native plant. Thus the birth of

Khaki, the Hindu word for "dust". Khaki went from India to the Kaffir War in South Africa in

1851, and then after the Sudan Wars and Afghan Campaign of 1878 it was adopted in 1884

as official uniform. The same year khaki-order dye was adopted by other armies including

America for the Spanish-America War in 1898.Short pants were also an English military

invention to keep defending the far flung Empire. Bermuda shorts were won down to theknee and named after the British island.

Oscar Wild tried reintroduce breeches in 1890, but wasnt successful until 1925 .The

measurement of these loose pants at the leg bottom reached even 40 inches!! Invented and

embraced by English Oxford University students, Bags were inspired by the loose trousers

that oarsmen slipped on over their shorts. The extreme fashion did not last long, and

gradually dwindled from1928.

Although not s extreme, another attempt at wide bottoms came when Pierre Cardinpopularized bell bottoms in the 60's as a reaction to the new narrow shoulder suits. Jeans

were also effected and affected during that time.


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Another word which is interchangeable with pants and trousers is slacks, which was coined

by the Haggar Corporation in the 1940s as a promotion for their casuals pants, to be worn

during your "slack" time between work and sports.

Sailors may have played a role in the worldwide dissemination of trousers as a fashion. In

the 17th and 18th centuries, sailors wore baggy trousers known as galligaskins. Sailors also

pioneered the wearing of jeans, trousers made of denim. These became more popular in the

late 19th century in the American West because of their ruggedness and durability


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2. Product Analysis

The garment we replicated is a basic mens fomal pants made of 65% polyester and 35% viscose.Thegarment is made for European consumers by the brand Marks and Spencersmanufactured

by K Mohan Limited in Bangalore.

2.2. Reason for choosing the garment

One of the main reasons behind selecting this garment is that we wanted to make something

which we have not done before as during our course-curriculum in garment construction we

didnt get a chance to know about the finer details of creating a trouser

Moreover as both of us had undergone our internships at shirt manufacturing units our

knowledge of trousers, such an important part of mens attire and one of the most sought after

apparel products, taking up our project in mens formal trousers was both a challenge and a new

learning experience.


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Our product which is manufactured by K. Mohan Pvt. Ltd. for European consumers by Marks &

Spencer is in itself an international quality product and helped is in analysing the finer details of

construction and quality parameters.


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2.3. Process of Product Development

There are a number of processes which were included in the product development process. Beginning

from the very nascent stage of research it runs upto shipping and in some cases upto sales.

The various processes undertaken for the analysis and development of the product whichwe had taken from our sample productincluded various stages starting from the

1. Analysis of the sample

2. Sourcing of the materials required

3. Preparation of the bill ofmaterial.

4. Tech-pack

5. Test report

6. Developmentof the patterns,

7. Markerplanning

8. Spreading and cutting

9. Stitching

10. Finishing and

11. Packaging with a report

in general, the following course of actions is followed in product development process

of apparels

Research

Design

Concept

Market

Screening

FabricSourcing

Prototypepattern

Sample fit

Patternadoption

TestingProduction

pattern

Grading

Marker Plan

Spreading Cutting

Sewing

Finishing

Packaging


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2.4. Garment components classification:

Fabric Shell fabric

Pocketing fabric

Trims Zipper

Thread

Velcro

Labels

Buttons

2.5 Garment component details:

Shell fabric 65% viscose 35%

Polyester

Trims fabric (pocketing) 100% cotton

Eyelets 8

Piping in side seam 2, white color,

polyester

Velcro 2, CF and back pocket

Zipper 1, plastic

Wash care label, Size label and brand label On back pocket lining

Welt pockets 1, Back side

Side slant pockets 2, both sides

Thread 2 ply polyesterthread


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2.6Process of conversion

The process of converting the concept to the product development can be summarised as the

following activities:

2.6.1Study of the garment

2.6.1.1Design

First step is to study the design of the garment and the feasibility to produce it with the available

resources.

2.6.1.2Material requirement

After studying the design, we list down the material requirement for the garment

2.6.2.Sourcing of materials

2.6.2.1Sourcing of fabric

The first process is to source the fabric as the lead time for fabric is more than other materials

required.

2.6.2.2Sourcing of trims

Trims sourcing is done after fabric sourcing.

2.6.3 Testing

Different types of tests are performed before producing the garment to make sure that theproduct is as per the standard.

We have done the following tests in our garment:

1.Fiber composition

1. Colourfastness to washing

2. Colourfastness to rubbing

3. Colourfastness to light

4. Breaking strength

5. Yarn count

6. Seam slippage

7. Fabric type/ structure

8. Yarn twist etc.

2.6.3.Development of pattern

2.6.3.1Pattern making


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Generally patterns of medium size are made and then they are graded to different sizes based on

the grading chart.

1.1.1. Pattern grading

From the basic size, increment or decrement in measurements are done to make the garments of

different sizes.

1.1.2. Marker making

Marker is planned before cutting for best efficiency and utilization of fabric.

1.2.Conversion of final product

1.2.1. Operation breakdown

Before starting the construction, the garment is broken down into small operation and arranged

in sequence.

1.2.2. Construction

Final step to convert it into final product is the construction of garment. This includes the

cutting, fusing, sewing and finishing activities required to accomplish the construction of a

garment.


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2.4 Product Specification Sheet

A product specification sheet or Spec sheet or a t e c h p a c k is informative sheet whichencompasses all the specifications of the requirements before embarking on the garment

manufacturing process. It contains all the details of any specific style of the garment. This

document is usually prepared by the designer and finalized in consultation with the

merchandisers, and then forwarded to bulk sampling department or to the production

department for the reference and guide for bulk manufacturing.

The Objective of any Spec sheet is, once techpack for any style is frozen, the production

department must be able to go ahead with the manufacturing process without having to refer

back to the designer for any aspect of production. The merchandisers are thus able to go ahead

and ensure that the required material as per the techpack is made available to the production

department, in the right quantities at the right time. The marketing department can use this

document in their presentation, particularly to the large format stores and their key customers.

The preparation of a techpack and using it to manage and co-ordinate various activities in

production brings in efficiency within the company as, various departments refers to the

common document for discussion or carrying out any activity.

Almost all garment manufacturing companies prepare a techpack. In many cases, the cutting

instructions or job card issued to production acts as the techpack. However, the details given in

the techpack are likely to vary with the sizes of the company. Large manufacturing companies

generally have a detailed techpack for each of the styles under production, for the simple reason

that any manufacturing that is not in line with what was desired results in a huge production

loss. For exporters, preparation of a techpack is almost mandatory, as the buyers prefer to signon the techpack before placing the order or would send in a techpack themselves.


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TROUSER TECHPACK ILLUSTRATION SHEET

LINE

GROUP

Formal

BRAN

D

Marks

&

Spenc

ers

LINE

Smart

fit

TARGET

Mens

FAMILY

Trouser

RELEASE

10

/03/201

2

SEASON

Summer

Spring 12

FIT AS

mart

LOOK

Durable press

HOW TO PACK THIS GARMENT

ms: Folded from supplier: FOLDED to shop: Folded

Recovered:


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TROUSER TECHPACK FABRIC SPECIFICATION SHEET

LINE

GROUP

Formal

BRAND

Marks

&

Spencer

s

LINE

Smart

fit

TARGET

Mens

FAMILY

Trouser

RELEASE

10/03/2

012

SEASON

Summer Spring 12

NO

COMPONENT DESCRIPTION POSITION

1. Main fabric PV blended fabric

GSM 160

FIBRE

CONTENT

Polyester and

viscose

FABRICATIO

N

Polyester 65%

Viscose 35%

WEAVE Plain

COUNT 52 x 48

YARN COUNT 2/30 x 2/30

FINISH Wrinkle free

. Second fabric Poplin

GSM 120

FIBRE

CONTENT

Cotton

FABRICATIO

N

Cotton 100%

WEAVE Plain

COUNT 132 x 64

YARN COUNT 40 x 40


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TROUSER TECHPACK ACCESSORY SPECIFICATION SHEET

LINE

GROUP

Formal

BRAN

D

Marks

&

Spenc

er

LINE

Smart

fit

TARGET

Mens

FAMILY

Trouser

RELEAS

E

10/03/

2012

SEASON

Summer Spring

12

ACCESSORIES

NO. COMPONENT DESCRIPTION POSITION

1 Tape Same Colorway

6 mm width.

Inside to the centre back.

Inside to the waist band and along

with the middle line.

Button Plastic with Same Colorway16 mm diameter

At the distance of 10 cm from right flyedge and centre of waist band.

Both 20 mm below from upper

attachment of body and back pocket

(centre of the horizontal line).

3 Zipper Same Colorway Zipper attachment at front crotch.

4 Fusing Microdot Attachment of back pocket shell with

body.

At zipper attachments.

5 Main label Applied to inside right back-pocket at

the centre.

COMPONENTS OF PACKAGING

NO

DESCRIPTION QUANTITY

1 POLYBAG - Neutral polybag thick 3 1

TAG - Marks & Spencerstag,size label,wash care label 1

3 POLYTHREAD 2 ply 1

4 Zipper 1

5 Button 1

TROUSER TECHPACK INSTRUCTION SHEET


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LINE

GROUP

Formal

BRAND

Marks &

Spencers

LINE

Smart fit

TARGE

T

Mens

FAMILY

Trouse

r

RELEAS

E

10/03/

2012

SEASON

Summer

Spring 12

CARE SYMBOLS

NSTRUCTIONS

LABELS

MAIN LABEL: applied to inside right back-pocket at the centre.COMPOSITION - CARE SYMBOLS

LABEL: applied to inside waist band to the left front at the distance of 11 cm from the zipper.

PRICE TAG

PRICE TAG: applied with polythread 18 cm long on back pocket liningPACKING

PACKING: folded in double way in vertical sense with the right back visible size 12; folded indouble way in vertical sense with the front inside the folding and then folded again with the

right back visible for the remaining sizes.

POLYBAG: During the first phases of garment folding, insert the desiccant bag to the insidefolding itself.

PRODUCTION

BARTACKS: Bartacks having variable length taken from cm.1 to cm 1.4 must be adjusted to 28stitches. Bartacks having variable length taken from cm.1.5 to cm must be adjusted to 36 stitches.

TESTING: abrasion resistance, shrinkage, tear strength & Hygral expansion test.COLOURWAY

Main fabric, second fabric, tape, and sewing thread should be of same colour code.

TROUSER TECHPACK OPERATION SPECIFICATION SHEET

LINE

GROUP

Formal

BRAN

D

Marks

&

Spence

LINE

Smart

fit

TARGET

Mens

FAMILY

Trouser

RELEAS

E

10/03/

2012

SEASON

Summer

Spring 12


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rs

NO. OPERATION STITCHTYPE MACHINEUSED SPI SEAM

Front Pocket Preparation

1 Slant Pocket preparation 301 SNLS 8 SSs, SSc, SSj

Bartacking - Bartacki

ng

- -

Zipper Attachment

1 Fly formation + Zipper attachment 301 SNLS 8 SSs, SSc, SSj

Raw edge finishing 301 SNLS 8 Bs

3 J-stitch 301 SNLS 8 -

4 Bartacking - Bartacki

ng

- -

Double Lip Welt Preparation (Back Pocket)

1 Lip preparation 301 SNLS 8 SSs

Fusing - Fusing - -

3 Pocket Shell Preparation 301 SNLS 8 Ls

nseam/ Sideseam

1 Inseam/Sideseam Attachment 301 SNLS 8 SSi

Raw edge Finishing (Overlock) 503 3-thread

overlock

- -

3 Raw edge Finishing (crotch) 301 SNLS 8 Bs

Hemming

1 Hemming 301 SNLS 8 SSp

TROUSER TECHPACK OPERATION SPECIFICATION SHEET

LINE

GROUP

BRAN

D

Marks

LINE

Smart

TARGET

Mens

FAMILY

Trouser

RELEAS

E

10/03/

SEASON

Summer


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Formal &

Spence

rs

fit 2012 Spring 12

NO. OPERATION STITCH

TYPE

MACHINE

USED

SPI SEAM

Waist band

1 Waist band preparation 301 SNLS 8 Bs

Inner (supporting) layer

preparation and attachment withmain body.

201 HAND

NEEDLE

3 Bs

3 Loop attachment to main body - Bartacki

ng

- -

4 Waist band attachment with main

body

301 SNLS 8 Bs

5 Loop attachment to waistband - Bartacki

ng

- -

TROUSER TECHPACK MEASUREMENT SPECIFICATION

SHEET

LINEGROUP

BRAND

LINE

Smart

TARGET

Boys &

FAMILY RELEASE

SEASON

Summer


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Formal Marks

&

Spence

rs

fit Mens Trouser 10/03/

2012

Spring 12

NO. MEASUREMENTS 26 28 30 32 34

ABDOMINAL

ARC

FRONT 8 9 9 9 7/8 10 3/8

BACK 8 8 3/8 8 9 1/8 9 5/8

HIP ARC FRONT 9 9 9 10 1/8 10 5/8

BACK 9 9 7/8 10 10 5/8 11 1/8

HIP DEPTH FRONT 9 9 9 9 10

BACK 8 9 9 9 9

4 CROTCH DEPTH 10 10 10 10 11

KNEE 14 14 15 15 16

CALF 12 12 13 13 14

SIDE HIP DEPTH 9 9 9 10 10

ANKLE 10 10 10 10 11

WAIST TO ANKLE 38 38 39 39 40

WAIST TO KNEE 23 23 3/8 23 24 1/8 24

WAIST TO FLOOR 40 40 41 41 42

0 CROTCH LENGTH 26 26 27 28 24

VERTICAL TRUNK 62 63 65 66 68

1 UPPER THIGH 21 22 23 24 25

MID THIGH 18 23 19 20 21

2 WAIST 26 28 30 32 34

Pocket Measurements

BACK POCKET WIDTH 7


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LIP WIDTH

BACK POCKET LENGTH 6

4 FRONT POCKET LENGTH 7

LOOP LENGTH 2

Measurement Guidelines;

500 Relaxed Measure from side to side along the inside of the waistband at the top edge.

501Extended For extended measurements, measure as above with elastic or knit fully extended.

601 Hip/Seat Lay the garment flat. The center front waistband will lay approximately 1" below

the center back waistband. From the fly bartack, measure straight across the garment from side

to side.

703 Thigh Width Lay the garment flat and fold the pant leg along the inseam. Measure 1" below

the crotch seam intersection, from inseam to outside fold, perpendicular to the front crease.

3. Test Report

The fabric was tested at INTERTEK INDIA Pvt Ltd which is a which is a trusted name in facbrictesting parameters and performs different types of fabric tests. For testing they follow ISO as

well as American standards.


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5. Raw Material Analysis

Material procurement is a time taking process which aims at scouring thesupplier market to get the best of the material in terms of quality as well as price. While

doing the material procurementanalysis of our garment we !rstof all made the bill of

material of what are the things that we would be needing and in whatquantity.Then we

decided the quality as per the speci!cations and !nally we went to the market for

enlisting which are the supplier that could manage with the supply of the material with

the top quality and shortest lead time.

POLYESTER VISCOSE FABRIC

This is a rich mixture of both polyester and viscose fibre giving lustre and durability to the

fabric. This comes in various blends from 50/50 to 80/20.


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Polyester Viscose Fabric are known to give comfort excel with added value of durability &

easy maintenance.

Polyester Viscose Fabric is very durable: resistant to most chemicals, stretching and

shrinking, wrinkle resistant, mildew and abrasion resistant.

Our product consists of 65% polyester & 35% viscose

TRIMS & ACCESSORIES

The product consists of the following trims and accessories Interlining : of 100% cotton. Threads : Zippers Buttons Fusing Labels

2.

3.

4.Sourcing

4.1. Fabric sourcing

4.1.1.Body fabric- 65% viscose 35%polyester

Supplier 1

Supplier name The Karnataka Handloom Development


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Corporation Limited

Address "Venkatadri Heights" Kiresur Complex,

Unkal Cross, Hubli - 580 031, India

Phone no +(91)-(836)-2277504/2277509

+(91)-9448455754

Contact Person Mr. Sushil Mehta

Website http://www.khdcltd.com/

Min order quantity 100 meters

Lead time 45 days

Rate Rs 350 per meter

Supplier 2

Supplier nameSoimex Garments Services Pvt. Ltd.

Address G-9, RamanashreeChambers,37, LadyCurzon Road, Bangalore- 560001

Phone no 91-80-22201823/30618655/22263404

Contact Person Mr. Mahendra Nager

Min order quantity 500 meter

Lead time 30-35 days


4.1.2.Pocketing fabric- 100% cotton

Supplier 1


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Supplier name

Pallava Textiles Limited

Address 24, Sankari Main Road, Pallipalayam,

Erode - 638 006, India

Phone no +(91)-9843132070

Contact Person Mr. S.K. Raja

Website http://www.vortexyarn.com/


Lead time 30 days


Supplier 2

Supplier name Khemchand Bros

Address 126, Devatha Market, Chickpet, Bangalore

Phone no 080- 22243419

Contact Person Mr. N.S Chhabra


Lead time 20 days


4.2. Trims suppliers4.2.1.Buttons


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Supplier 1

Supplier nameGajendra Enterprises

Address No. 307, Pette Chinnappa Estate,

Kamakshipalya, Bengaluru - 560 079,

Phone no +(91)-(80)-23580649

+(91)-9341276368/9880679502

Min order quantity 10 gross

Lead time 8-10 days

Rate Rs. 180 per gross

Supplier 2

Supplier name Mahaveer Button House

Address Shop-1, 144/38, V R Complex, Kumbarpet,

Kumbarpet, Bengaluru

Phone no 080 22222547

Min order quantity Any quantity

Lead time 10 days

Rate Rs. 200 per gross


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4.2.2.Fusing

Supplier 1

Supplier nameBharath Fushing

Address S. F. No 28, K .Kamaraj Nagar, K P G Nagar,

4th Cross Extension Ganapathy, Coimbatore

- 641 006, India

Phone no : +(91)-9865021628/9865394201

Min order quantity 2 rolls (one roll has 25 mt)

Lead time 5 days

Rate Rs. 200 per roll

Supplier 2

Supplier nameApparel Services Network

Address G 2, Archana Apartments, 26 Norris road,

Richmond town,Bangalore

Phone no +(91)-(422)3025469/6450983

Min order quantity 1 roll

Lead time 10 days

Rate Rs. 175-190 per roll


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4.2.3.Labels

Supplier 1

Supplier name Jaya associates

Address 21st floor, Gullappa building, R.S. Palya,

Kammanahali main road, Bangalore

Phone no 080-2454100

Min order quantity 1500

Lead time 10 days

Rate Main label- Rs. 0.50 / label

Size label-Rs 0.25 / label

Care label- Rs 0.50/ label

Supplier 1

Supplier nameInfomax labels solutions

Address C Babureddy Industrial Compound, Opposite

Bhavani Jewellers, Begur Road, Hongasandra,

Bommanahalli, Bangalore

Phone no 080-66498743


Lead time 10 days


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Rate Main label- Rs. 0.50 / label

Size label-Rs 0.25 / label

Care label- Rs 0.50/ label

4.2.4.Zipper

Supplier 1

Supplier nameZip Industries Limited

Address

304 A, 100 Feet Road, Indiranagar,

Bengaluru

Phone no 080 25251435


Lead time 15 days

Rate Rs 2.5-3

Supplier 2

Supplier nameKesar Fasteners

Address 12/24, Baba Market, O.K. road, Bangalore

Phone no N/A


Lead time 15 days


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Rate Rs 3

4.2.5.Thread

Supplier 1

Supplier nameMadura coats pvt ltd India

Address 7th floor, Jupiter block, Prestige tech park,

Ring road, Bangalore

Phone no +(91)-(80)3025469/6450983

Min order quantity 5 boxes (1 box- 10 cubes; 1 cube-500 mt)

Lead time 5 days

Rate Rs 80-90 per box

Supplier 2

Supplier nameVardhman Threads


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Address 101 & 102, J B Kaval, K.H.D. colony, Nandini

Layout post, Yeshwantpur, Bangalore

Phone no 080-41248892

Min order quantity 3 boxes

Lead time 5 days

Rate Rs 80 per box

5. Bill 0f Material

Supplier name Description Cost(INR) UnitCons./trouser Cost/trouser(INR) Clearing /Freight@20% (INR) Total Cost/trouser (INR)T & S Buttons -Srilanka Plastic Buttons-16L 75 2 1.04 0.20 1.24Guttermann Thread-120 Tkt 536 200+30 yard 8.5 8.5

Style # T18-00185/3231H

Description Formal Trouser

Fabrication Viscose -35%, Polyester-65%

Construction (30s)

Special Finish -

Proto Size L

Label Marks and Spencers

Season Fall 11

Gender Male


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Mahaveer Labels -

Bangalore Main Label 0.55 1 0.55 0.55Size label 0.3 1 0.30 0.30

Manu Graphics -

Bangalore

Wash Care

label(satin) 0.5 1 0.50 0.50Hang Tag 2.000 1 2.000 2.00

Barcode Stickers 1.000 1 1.000 1.00PVC Patti 2.8 1 2.800 2.80Paper Patti 0.38 1 0.380 0.38

Tissue Paper 1.57 2 3.140 3.14Back Support 3.2 1 3.200 3.20

Polybag 2.2 1 2.200 2.20Y-Clips 0.54 3 1.620 1.62

Silver Head Pin 0.12 2 0.240 0.24Manu Graphics -

Bangalore Carton/Pre-packsticker 0.83 1 0.830 0.83Giriraj packaging -

Bangalore Carton Box 75.00 0.050 3.750 3.75Madeira -

Bangalore Microdot fusing 50 0.25 2.5 2.5zipper 100 1 5 5Total 39.75

Material Item Type/Placement Quantity /Unit Color Cost(Rs.)

FABRIC

Viscose -35%,

Polyester-65%

Body 1.2mtr Grey 350/mtr(420

100% cotton Pocket Bag &

waistband

1mtr White 65/mtr

TOTAL 485

TRIMS

Button Plastic 2 Grey

Zipper 1 Grey

Fusing 0.25 White

LABELS

Note : the

dimensions are

mentioned as

length and

breadth

Main Label:1/21/8

13/8

below

waistband

1 Black

Size label woven

label size:2/1.5

25/8

below

waistband

1 White

Type : Black

Font : Arial

Narrow

1

Wash

Care:25/8

/1

25/8

below

waistband

1 White

Type : Black

0.75


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THREADS

Thread 2 ply THROUGHOUT ,

serging 5 thread

O/L

200 yards Grey

Thread 2 ply Body : Lock stitch

at the pocketfinish, bottom

hem

25

White

Thread 2 ply Body : stitch at the

waist band

34 White

Total 485+39.75 = Rs. 524.75

7. Operation Breakdown

S. NO. OPERATION DESCRIPTION MACHINE TYPE SAM

1 W/B Extension SNLS 0.32

2 Back Pocket Facing Auto Facing Attach 0.18

3Front Pocket Facing Auto Facing Attach 0.38

4 Front Pocket O/L 5T O/L 0.32

5 Front Pocket Turning Manual 0.23

6 Fly Serging 5T O/L 0.30

7 Fly stitch to Front SNLS 0.26


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20Stitch Side Pocket to Front 5T O/L 0.62

21

22 Side Pocket Ironing Steam Press 0.23

25Side Pocket Tacking BAR tack 0.69

26

27 Back Panel Serging Auto 5T O/L 0.28

29 Dart Marking Manual+Template 0.1930 Auto Dart Making Auto SNLS 0.48

32Auto-welt Auto Welt m/c 0.57

33

34Back Pocket Corner Stitch SNLS 0.76

35

36 Welt Back Press Steam Press 0.38

37 Welt Front Press Steam Press 0.31

38 Back Pocket Loop Marking Manual+Template 0.27

39

Back Pocket Loop Attach SNLS 0.7140

41 Welt Closing SNLS 0.28

42

Back Pocket Pouch Closing SNLS 0.9543

44

45 Welt Pocket Bartack Bartack 0.33

46 Back Loop Bartack Bartack 0.05

47 Back Loop Press Steam Press 0.06

48 Back Loop Stitch SNLS 0.08

49 J Fly Zip Attach SNCS w Roller Feed 0.0850 Cut and Gape Zip YKK Zip Cutting m/c 0.04

51 Straight Fly Zip Attach SNLS 0.14

52Inseam O/L 5T O/L 0.65

53

54Sideseam O/L

5T O/L0.58

55 Auto 5T O/L

56Seam Press

Corosel Press0.75

57 Corosel Press

58 Front Panel serging 5T O/L 0.25

1W/B Iron Steam Press 0.68

2

3 W/B Attachment Marking Manual + Template 0.33

4Seat Seam Joining

5T O/L0.65

5 5T O/L

6Beltloop Attachment SNLS 0.49

7

8W/B Attachment SNLS 1.009

10


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11 Left Extention Lock SNLS 0.31

12 Extention Turn & Press Steam Press 0.39

13 Right Extention Lock SNLS 0.29

14 Rt Extention Hook Attach Hook Attaching m/c 0.30

15 W/B Center Back Marking Manual + Wax marker 0.36

16 Lt Extention Bar Attach Manual 0.31

17 Front Rise Stitch SNLS 0.3018 0.33

19 J Stitch SNLS 0.51

21W/B Label Attach SNLS 0.58

22

23Wash Care & Size Label

AttachSNLS 0.33

24 J Stitch Bar Tack Bartacking m/c 0.36

25 Bar tack Front Pocket Bartacking m/c 0.28

26 Seat Seam Press Steam Press 0.30

27 W/B Button Hole Keyhole Making m/c 0.27

28 Back Pocket Button Attach Button Attaching m/c 0.31

29Inline Inspection

Manual0.67

30 Manual

31 Label Fold & Tack SNLS 0.28

35W/B Button Attach and ditch

stitchButton Attaching m/c 1.53

37 Belt Loop Down Bartacking m/c 0.38

38Belt Loop Up

Bartacking m/c0.68

39 Bartacking m/c

40 Bottom Hem O/L FLAT LOCK 0.39

41 Buttom Blind Hem MANUAL 0.36

43

Trimming Trimmer 2.18

44

45

46

47

48

49 Endline Inspection (Inside

Out)Manual

0.75

5051

Endline Inspection (Straight) Manual0.67

52


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510 Front Rise Measure straight down from top of waistband to intersection of crotch seam.

Measure flat without stretching seam.

511 Back Rise Measure straight down from top of waistband to intersection of crotch seam.

Measure flat without stretching seam.

700 Inseam Lay the garment flat and fold the pant leg along the inseam. Measure from the crotchseam intersection down to the bottom of the garment, following the seam contour.

702 Outseam Measure from the top of waistband, or if pant has no waistband, measure from top

of the garment to the bottom of the leg, following the contour of the side seam.

802 Knee Measure at the center point (half-way point) of the inseam. Measure straight across

the leg from fold to fold or crease to crease.

900g Opening Measure on the inside, straight across from side to side

6. Production planning

Before production, proper planning is very necessary based on the quantity of the order. Here

we have assumed the order quantity to be 10,000 garments. So we have planned based on this

many order quantity.

6.1.Warehouse planning

Per garment fabric consumption= 1.2+.05=1.25m

Fabric width = 60

Fabric length required for 10000 garments= 10000 X 1.25= 12500m


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Per roll fabric quantity average= 105 m

No of rolls required= 12500/105 ~ 119 rolls

If one rack can hold 10 rolls then no of racks required= 119/10~12 racks

In one rack, there will be 3 levels, so total no of racks actually required= 12/3= 4

6.2.Spreading

Total order quantity=10000 pcs = 10000

M: L:XL =1:2:1

Fabric consumption=1.25 mtr per garment

Marker way= 4 way

Marker Length = 4 x 1.25 = 5 mt

Lay length= 5 mt + 2 cm +2 cm= 5.04 mt

1 lay=4 garments

Thus for 10000 pcs number of plies required = 10000/4 = 2500

No. of plies in a lay = 60

No. of lays = 10000/(4x60)~ 42 lays

Time of spreading for one ply= 1 min

Total time for spreading one lay= 60 X 1= 60 min= 1 hr

Total time required to spread all lays= 42 X 1 hr= 42 hrs

6.3.Cutting

Total time taken to cut one lay= 30 min


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So total time required to cut all 42 lays= 30 X 42 min= 1260 min= 21 hrs

6.4.Sewing

Order quantity= 10000

SAM= 13 (from the operation bulletin- given in subsequent pages)

Operators required= 38 (from the operation bulletin- given in subsequent pages)

Efficiency= 70 %

Per day available no of hours= 8

Let no of days required to finish the production be x.

Then,

Efficiency= (SAM X Total order quantity) / (Total working min available X Manpower)= (SAM X Total order quantity) / (x X Total working min per day X Manpower)

So,

x = (SAM X Order quantity)/ (Efficiency X Total working min per day X Manpower)

= (13 X 10000) /(0.7 X 8 X 60 x 38)

=10.2 days ~ 11 days

6.5.Finishing

Time taken for thread trimming= 15 sec/ garment

Time taken for measurement checking = 15 sec / garment

Time taken in folding= 10 sec/ garment

No of workers required= 1+1+1= 3 workers

Total time taken in finishing= 40 sec / garment

Time to pack all garments = 40 X 10000 / (60 x 60) hours

= 111.11 hours

As there are three workers for finishing,

So actual no of hours required= 111.11/3 hours= 37.03 hours

So no of days required= 4.62 ~ 5 days


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6.6.Packaging

Time taken to pack one garment=l5 sec

Total time taken to pack all garments= (15 X 10000 )sec

= 150000/(60 x 60) hours

= 41.7 hrs

No of days required= 41.7/8 = 5.2 days ~ 5days

Production Planning

Here, we are assuming that for the order of 10,000 garments we are taking only 2

days ofsewing, hence each day we will be producing only 5000 garments. However, due

to low efficiency each day we are able to produce only 4800 garment pieces.

Assumptions

Garment = mens formal trouser

Annual Production = 15,60,000 gmts/year

Monthly Production = 1,30,000 gmts/month

Daily Production (26 days) = 5000 gmts/day

Maximum achieved efficiency = 65 %Maximum capacity efficiency = 100 %

Daily working hour = 8 hrs. (480 minutes)

SAM (sewing) = 29.6 min

Calculations

1. No. of workstations and Lines

TotalSAM required/ day = 5000 x 29.7(no. of pants x SAM)

= 118,500 min

Minutes available at 100 % = 118,500 min

Minutes available at 65 % = 118,500/0.65 min

efficiency

= 182,308 min

Now considering the Operation bulletin (see Annexure) No. of

machine/operator in 1 line is 62.


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1 helper/5 50

12

Total workforce = 310 persons

Actual minutes available in 1 line is 29,760 min(= 62 x 480) No. of

line at 100% efficiency = 118,500/29,760

= 4 (approximation of 3.98)

No. of line at 65% efficiency = 182,308/29,760

= 7 (approximation of 6.12)

Totalno. of operators in 4 lines= 248 operators (62 x 4) Total

no. of operators in 7 lines= 434 operators (62 x 7)

Hence, total no. of machines/operators in each line is 62. For the ideal case we

need 4 lines for producing 5000 garments, however in practical cases we need 7

lines as efficiency is never 100 %.

Calculation of extra time needed for producing 5000 garments,with4lines (62 machines/operators each line )

65%achievable efficiency

SMV = 36.56 min. (at 100% efficiency SAM= SMV, at lower efficiency SMV=SAM/

efficiency)

TotalSMV required/ day = 5000 x 36.56(no. of pantss x SMV)

= 182,800 min

Actual minutes available in 4 line is 119,040 min(= 62 x 4 x 480) (at 100% efficiency)

Minutes available at 65% = 119,040/0.65

efficiency

= 183,139 min

Hence, extra minutes needed = 183,139 - 182,800 min

= 339 min (5.65 hours)

Hence, extra minutes needed to complete the same order of 5000 garments at 65%

efficiency with resources of 100% efficiency is 5.65 hours.

Considering,Totalno. of operator = 248 operators


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2. Storage

Fabric required in 1 garment

Fabric length in 1 roll

=

=

1.7 meter

110 meter

Fabric consumption in 1 day = 9350 m (=1.7 x 5500)

No. of rolls used in 1 day = 85 rolls (=9350/110)

Now to maintain at least 3 days buffer stock, we should have space for 250 rolls

(=85 x 3).

Width of roll = 60 inches

Width of racks = 48 inches (consider 6show-off in both sides)

Diameter of 1 roll = 9 inches

Maximum stack height ofrolls = 4 rolls

Space ofmovmt

. in each rack = 12 inchesSpace between two racks = 48 inches (=9x 4 + 12) Height

of the rack stand = 12 feet (consisting of 3 racks)

No. of rolls in one rack = 40 rolls (=10 stack x 4)

No. of rolls in one rack stand = 120 rolls

Totalno. of rack stands = 2 (=250/120)

One stacking rack stand for pre-inspection storage.

2 Operator will be using forkliftfor roll transportation.

Storage section will need 3 rack stands of (12x 9x 4), and 2 operators.

3. Cutting Floor

Assumption

Daily prodn. @ 10% buffer = 5500 gmts/day

Considering the cutting section to be automated, marker to be a 4 way marker & 1 lay

consisting of 110 spreads of 7 metres each.

Max. achievable efficiency = 70%

SAM (cutting/gmt) = 0.34 min

3 Operators are required for 1 cutting table/machine.

Calculations

Time taken in spreading and cutting is 2.5 hours (= 150 min)

Hence, in 2.5 hours, 440 pantss cut pieces are obtained.

Total minutes required/day = 5500 x 0.34 (pantss x SAM)

at 100% efficiency= 1870 mins.


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of helpers(1h/3 6

2

Total workforce = 26

Total minutes required/day = 1870/0.70 min

at 70% efficiency

= 2672 min

Actual minutes available at spreading table is 480 min (= 8 x 60).

No. of tables needed = 2672/480

= 6

Here, we are not including a time analysis for the 70% efficiency , i.e. how much time

would we need to work at resources with capacity of 100% efficiency; the efficiency is

low from ideal case because of the worker and not because ofmachine. As we areconsidering both spreading & cutting in one go, i.e., manual and automated operations in

one step assumptions are made for simpli!cation.

No. of operators(6 x 3) = 18 operators

4. Bundling & Ticketing

1 pants = 24 pcs.

Totalno. ofpcs.

1 bundle

Totalno. ofbundles

=

=

=

132,000 (5500 x 24 )

25 pcs.

5280 (132,000/25)

1 bundle,SAM

Efficiency

Total minutes required

at 100% efficiency

Total minutes required

=

=

=

=

=

1.5 min

65%

5280 x 1.5

7920 min

7920/0.65

at 65% efficiency

= 12185 min


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1 worker

Totalno. of workers

=

=

=

480 working minutes

12185/480

26 workers

No. of workers = 26 workers

No. ofhelpers(1h/5w) = 5 helpers


Hence, in all cutting"oor requires 57 persons (=26+31).

5. Finishing

Daily production = 4800 pantss

Efficiency = 65%

SAM = 1 min (ironing)

= 1.5 min (trimming & stain removing)

= 1 min (folding & packing)

Total SAM = 3.5 min

Ironing

Total min. required for ironing = 4800 x 1 min

= 4800 minMinutes req. at 65% efficiency = 4800/0.65

= 7385 min

1 operator = 480 min

No. of operators for ironing = 7385/480

= 16 operators

Trimming& Stain removing

Total min. required = 4800 x 1.5 min

= 7200 min

Minutes req. at 65% efficiency = 7200/0.65 min

= 11077 min


No. of operators forT & SR = 11077/480

= 23 operators

Folding & Packing

Total min. required = 4800 x 1 min

= 4800 min

Minutes req. at 65% efficiency = 4800/0.65

= 7385 min



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No. of operators for ironing = 7385/480

= 16 operators

No. of operators & helpers

Ironing = 16 operators

Trimming& Stain removing = 23 operators

Folding & Packing = 16 operators

Helpers (1h/9 op.) = 6 helpers


6. Warehousing

Daily Production = 4800 gmts.

Dimension of 1 box = 24 x 12 x 12 inches

Maximum stacking height = 7

Maximum stack height = 7 feet(=1x 7)

Capacity of 1 box = 24 garments No.

of box required = 200 (=4800/24)

Hence, 200 boxes will take = 29 stacks(=200/7) of 1 feet width and 2 feet

depthSpace occupied by 200 boxes = 2 x 29x 7(L x B x H)

SAM (Packing in Carton box) = 6 min

Total minutes required = 1200 min (=200 x 6)


No. of operator = 3 operators (=1200/480)

Mini MarkerMini marker is the pattern traced in consideration with the minimum wastage

of fabric in use. Here are some of the pictures which depict our fabric consumption.

The marker used would be a 4-way marker in the following ratio

M:X:XL=1:2:1


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Conclusion

After studying this subject, we got a learning experience of many activities happening in

the garment industry. Starting with the detailed product analysis, pattern making and

testing till the production and packaging, we covered almost all the phenomena

associated with an order.

This subject also gave us the knowledge about different parameters to be considered

while garment and trims testing.

This subject helped us do the complete production planning of a product; from

warehouse till finishing and packaging.

The experience learnt in the subject would help us in any product development in the

apparel industry.

Documents

Pad Final Doc