LNE & Spa - October 2014

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Page 4 • lneonline.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • October 2014

organic & wellnessThe Power of Words 96Cranberries 100Imperial Brew 102O&W News 108

Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa, American Edition, (USPS 003-687) (ISSN 1043-9641) is published monthly, 12 times per year and is sold exclusively by subscription. Publisher’s Name: Jean Jacques Legrand, M.D., 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, FL, 33134. Periodical postage paid at Miami, Florida, with additional mailing offices. Postmaster: Send address changes to: Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa, American Edition, 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, Florida 33134, United States Subscription: Annual Rate $45.00 Canada Subscription: $55.00 (American) 1st Class Postage Overseas Subscription: Two years for $140.00 (U.S.) Air Mail Postage

imageRavishing Red Lips! 110Corrective Makeup Techniques 114The Magic of Metallics 122Image News 124

Corrective MakeupTechniques page 114

LNE & Spa—the magazine for skin care and spa professionals October 2014 $7.50

Cover Courtesy of Chanel

extrasFrom the Editor 6Calendar of Events 126Advertiser Index 130

shall we pumpkin? guideOrange is in 40The Power of Pumpkin 41Beyond the Peel 46Orange Sells 48Five Reasons to KeepPumpkin Year-Round 50 Squeeze That Squash!Photo Feature 52

business Generate Referrals Like Nobody’s Business! 82Call of Duty 86Business News 94

skinAging Through the Decades 10 Treating Acne at the Spa 18Pretty in Pink 32Skin News 38

Shall We Pumpkin? Guide page 39

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GuideDid you know that fall’s most cherished fruit is also one of skin care's best kept secrets?

Imperial Brew:The Beneficial

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spaSpa of the Month 56When Friction is Welcome 64Creating Resort Spa Experiences 70

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from the EDITORFall is in full swing! Be recharged and energized as you reinvent your industry by attending The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, Philadelphia at the Pennsylvania Convention Center on October 19-20. I invite you all to attend this outstanding learning and net-working opportunity!

This month’s issue of Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa is packed with a wide variety of topics. For Breast Cancer Awareness Month, “Pretty in Pink” on page 32 provides you with insight into oncology skin treatments for your spa. Get the inside scoop on dry skin brushing from “When Friction is Welcome” on page 64. Find out how to “Generate Referrals Like Nobody’s Business” for your spa on page 82. “Cranberries: A Treat for Your Clients’ Skin” on page 100 explains the skin care benefits of this fall favorite. Enhance your clients’ beauty and minimize flaws with the help of “Corrective Makeup Techniques” on page 114.

In the spirit of the autumn season, the latest lineup in our special guide series is all about one incredible, nutrient-packed powerhouse: pumpkin. Find everything you need to incorporate this potent fall superfood into your spa busi-ness, including its benefits to the skin, treatment ideas and how to market this key ingredient in “Shall We Pumpkin?” starting on page 39.

Pack pumpkin into your retail selection and backbar with the help of our special photo feature, “Squeeze That Squash!” on page 52.

Indulge in the abundance of information shared in this issue as you prepare for The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, Philadelphia. For more information and to register, visit LNEONLINE.com. We’ll see you there! n

—Amanda Clinton Winter, [email protected]

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AGINGTHROUGH

THEDECADES

Attaining youthful skin is often a lifelong endeavor that clinicians and clients aim to achieve. Understanding how to address age-related skin concerns with professional treatments and home care regimens through each decade of a client’s life can help clinicians provide optimal results, regardless of a client’s age.

Spa and home care treatments for every stage of lifeby Cynthia Price, M.D.

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October 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa lneonline.com • Page 11

Aging is a twofold process involving intrinsic and extrinsic influences. Intrinsic aging is de-termined by genetic makeup and heritage. This natural aging process begins in the mid-20s with slowed collagen production, resulting in reduced skin elasticity. Cellular turnover, a 28-day process on average in youth, can take up to 50 days in later life, leaving skin looking dull.

Extrinsic aging is an accumulation of en-vironmental factors, lifestyle choices (smok-ing, alcohol consumption, diet) and sun exposure. According to experts, nearly 85 percent of visible aging is due to extrinsic factors, which accelerate the aging process.

As such, although some “typical” signs of aging are to be expected with each de-cade, clients will age differently, making skin assessment and clients’ history forms of the utmost importance. Take into account each client’s medical history as well as medica-tions (including allergies and food sensitivi-ties), which can reveal significant conditions your client may have neglected to discuss, and could affect the effectiveness of treat-ments (some medications for example cause photosensitivity that can influence hyper-pigmentation treatments). Following the same vein, ask questions concerning your client’s profession, as it will reveal stress levels and Uv exposure, both influential in deciding the proper course of treatments and products. Broad-spectrum sunscreen should be included in every daily care regi-men for clients of all ages.

INTRINSIC VS. EXTRINSIC AGING



Skin may start exhibiting signs of sun dam-age by the early 30s. Fine lines may appear around the orbital bone (eyes) and the peri-oral region (lips). Maintaining collagen is of utmost importance during this period since natural production slows down in the mid-20s. Hyperpigmentation may also begin to develop due to contraceptive use, childbirth and over-exposure to the sun. If significant sun damage occurred during a client’s younger years, the 30s is a critical decade to stop further damage from developing.

• Chemical peels. Introduce your clients to chemical peels by starting them off with en-zyme peels, which are a gentle and effective way to provide smooth and clear skin. Enzymes work at the surface of the skin, speed up cell turnover, promote younger cells and brighten skin. Enzyme peels can be scheduled at fre-quent intervals safely. Light chemical peels, al-pha hydroxy acids or beta hydroxy acids, which promote desquamation, aid in pigmentation and help smooth skin, can be scheduled up to every two weeks.

• Microdermabrasion. Now is also a good time to initiate your clients to professional me-chanical peels. Microdermabrasion addresses minimal sun damage, softens fine lines and wrinkles and helps build collagen by removing the uppermost layer of dead skin cells and allow-ing for better topical absorption. Recommend a series of four to six treatments about two to three weeks apart.

30s

SPA TREATMENTS:

Get your clients into a good home care rou-tine. In addition to addressing their personal concerns (dry skin, acne, etc.), have them add antioxidants and retinol into their regimen.

• Potent antioxidants incorporated into the morning routine, such as L-ascorbic acid (vita-min C), tocopherol (vitamin E), glutathione or epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG, found in green tea), mitigate oxidative damage while adding an extra layer of sun protection.

• In the evening, retinol becomes an ingre-dient of choice to improve collagen production and minimize fine lines around the eyes and mouth. It also aids in the reduction of hyper-pigmentation and improves cellular turnover.

• Topical products that include stem cells are also crucial, as these stimulate cells to re-pair wrinkles and restore firmness and elasticity.

• Quite similarly, peptides, proteins com-posed of chains of amino acids facilitate cellular communication for skin to repair.

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skin | aging through the decades

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By the time clients reach their 40s, sun damage becomes more apparent. Hyperpigmentation starts appearing on the chest, shoulders, arms and legs, areas that peo-ple often fail to protect with sunscreen. Clients may also notice telangiectasias (spider veins) due to sun damage and collagen breakdown. Peri-menopause begins around the age of 47, often resulting in sudden estrogen depletion that leads to increased surface dryness, a drop in sebum production and hormonally induced acne breakouts.

• Chemical peels. If periodical light chemi-cal peels should be kept up, medium peels (trichloroascetic or TCA) may be advisable. Medium peels, which penetrate the dermis, aid in improving moderate sun damage, more pronounced wrinkles and uneven skin tone. Medium peels may only need to be adminis-tered once or twice a year.

• Educate your clients about the importance of treating the décolleté area, whether through exfoliation, hydrating masks or facials.

• If treating the skin from the neck down can address hyperpigmentation in that area, laser therapy can not only address spider veins but also remove wrinkles from other neglected parts of the body, including hands, which often give age away (routine hand facials can keep skin rejuvenated and moisturized).

SPA TREATMENTS:

40sthe • Microcurrent facials can be a great alter-

native to those clients who do not wish to go under the knife. By working the muscles under-lying the skin, microcurrent stimulation tones, tightens muscle and improves the elasticity of skin, which results in younger looking skin. Treatments can be recommended as a series of 12 up to three times a week, followed by periodic maintenance.

• Radio frequency is yet another treatment that targets laxity of the face and neck. The deep heating stimulates the skin renewal pro-cess, which helps tighten existing collagen and form new collagen. Typical treatments consist of series of six at one to two week intervals.

• To hydrate peri-menopausal skin, humec-tants like hyaluronic acid and sodium PCA (a naturally occurring amino acid) should be com-bined with occlusive ingredients, like jojoba oil or shea butter.

• As a sudden estrogen drop allows andro-gen hormones to dominate, breakouts are prone to happen. Provide these clients with an acne spot treatment containing salicylic acid in addi-tion to gentle products that support hydration.

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For most women, menopause will have com-menced by the age of 50. The ovaries cease to produce adequate levels of estrogen and pro-gesterone to sustain fertility. Significant changes occur in the skin, including a reduction in sebum production, dryness, more sensitivity, increased laxity, fine lines and wrinkles. As estrogen levels deplete, testosterone remains constant, allowing hormonal breakouts to resurface. This drastic hormonal shift breaks down the support struc-ture of the dermis, collagen and elastin, leading to wrinkles seemingly appearing overnight. Due to sluggish cellular turnover, skin appears dull.

50s• Microneedling not only allows for better

absorption of topical ingredients (copper pep-tides and hyaluronic acid are needling must haves), but increases cellular communication, cell proliferation and growth. Schedule your clients for a series of four to six treatments at one to two month intervals.

SPA TREATMENTS:

• Due to cessation of estrogen production, a heavier moisturizer may be needed to combat persistent dryness and sensitivity.

• Supplement your client’s moisturizer with lotions or serums containing at least two types of antioxidants (lycopene, green tea, soy), and advise them to alternate them every other day to address different problems without interruption.

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60sSPA TREATMENTS:

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Restoration is a key concern. Post meno-pause sets in and the hormonally induced break-outs experienced during the 40s and 50s dimin-ish. A lack of estrogen means the formation of fine lines and deep wrinkles are difficult to treat with topical products alone. The dermal layers, the skin’s support structure, no longer rebuild as they once did, and collagen and elastin pro-duction comes to a near halt. The skin begins thinning and continues to dull due to a slower cellular turnover rate. Moisture loss is also a concern. Sagging of the jaw line, perioral re-gion and neckline require advance correction, while volume loss in the mid-face may leave a hollowed appearance in the cheeks, temples and around the eyes.

• A common concern of a client in their 60s and 70s is laxity in the neck area. This area responds well to calcium hydroxymethionine, an ingredient tested specifically on the neck tissue to fortify and restructure thin, fragile skin.

• Advise clients to refrain from using soaps and instead use gentle creamy or foaming cleansers.

• Serums containing potent antioxidants or peptides, which are more easily absorbed than creams and lotions, are now a must.

While working to correct skin damage ac-cumulated throughout a client’s life, it is critical to maintain the use of Uv-protective products and antioxidants, regardless of age. By under-standing the skin challenges inherent in each stage of life, as well as effective treatments to correct them, clinicians can provide daily care regimens and professional treatments to ad-dress each client’s needs, leading to youthful looking skin. n

Laser and light treatments will address spider veins and broken capillaries, loose and sagging skin will need treatments such as microneedling, microcurrent and radio frequency, and wrinkles and fine lines will continue to be attenuated via laser, chemical and mechanical peels.

Cynthia Price, M.D. is a board-certified, fellowship-trained pediatric dermatol-ogist and pediatrician prac-ticing out of Scottsdale, AZ. She specializes in adult, pe-diatric, surgical and cos-

metic dermatology. Dr. Price is a fellow of the American Academy of Dermatology and the American Academy of Pediatrics.



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TREAT INGACNEAT THE SPATrend, Science or Both?

by April Zangl and Erin Ferrill

Acne is a traumatic condition that afflicts 50 percent of women and 25 percent of men at some time in their adult lives1. The distress caused by this condition is compounded by the fact that in adulthood, they are already deal-ing with signs of aging that include fine lines, loss of elasticity, dehydration, uneven skin tone and inflammation. In addition to these issues, adults with acne are simultaneously struggling with flare-ups, dark spots and scarring.

As the average wait time to see a derma-tologist in the United States is 34 days and health care costs continue to rise2, estheticians are playing a more important role than ever in solving their clients’ skin concerns.

It is important to note, however, that es-theticians should be trained to recommend that a client visit a dermatologist in the cases of very deep, persistent, inflamed or infected acne lesions.


Estheticians should perform thorough skin consultations in order to treat both acne and aging concerns. During this skin analysis, the esthetician should determine the severity and type of lesions present, as well as ask questions about lifestyle, duration of symptoms and prior treatments the client has tried. This information will determine the root cause and best course of action for each client. The causes of acne can be environmental, genetic or a combina-tion of both factors.

CAUSES OF ACNE

Fluctuating hormone levels: An imbalance of hormones, especially androgen hormones such as testosterone, can lead to breakouts. Hormones affect acne because of their connection to seba-ceous glands, which are glands in the skin at-tached to hair follicles that produce sebum or oil. When levels of androgens increase, more sebum is produced and there is a greater likelihood that the oil will clog hair follicles and result in acne.

Stress: There is a link between stress and acne flare-ups. Whether one is experiencing physi-cal or psychological stress, the body releases cortisol, a stress hormone that plays a critical role on the testosterone pathway. In response to stress, the body produces more hormones, which stimulates the oil glands and hair follicles, increasing the potential for an acne breakout.

Family history: According to the Journal of American Academy of Dermatology, moderate to severe acne was strongly associated with a family history of acne in first-degree relatives. The risk was reduced in people with a lower body mass index, with a more pronounced ef-fect in males compared to females.

medication side effects: Acne can be a side effect of taking certain medications. Although fairly uncommon, certain drugs, including corti-costeroids, lithium, anticonvulsants, barbiturates, androgenic steroids, DHEA and medications that contain bromides or iodides can cause acne or acne-like eruptions, which look differ-ent than regular acne. Most people with acne have various types of lesions. Acne breakouts caused by medicine tend to look consistent. For example they all might look like little red papules or tiny pustules, which are discussed later in this article.

Undiagnosed medical condition: Sometimes acne is a sign of an underlying medical condi-tion. Once the medical condition is diagnosed and treated, the acne often clears.

TYPES OF ACNE

A comedo, or basic acne lesion, is a hair follicle that has become clogged with oil and dead skin cells. Comedones can develop into bumps called whiteheads,

which are closed at the surface of the skin; or blackheads, which are open at the surface.

• mandelic, lactic and salicylic acids can treat comedones by increasing cell turnover to regu-late clogged pores, while witch hazel can be incorporated to calm irritation and redness. • Peptides are among the latest advancements in acne-fighting actives. They are more than just an anti-wrinkle ingredient. The Granactive Acne peptide (otherwise known as Oligopeptide-10), enables a lower than standard concentration of salicylic acid to have the maximum anti-bacterial ef-fect within the pore, with a reduced risk of irritation. • Bentonite and kaolin clays have also been shown to help extract impurities from the skin. • Tea tree oil has been proven to reduce black-head-causing bacteria.

skin | treating acne at the spa

A comedo, or basic acne lesion, is a hair follicle that has become clogged with oil and dead skin cells. Comedones can develop into bumps called whiteheads, which are closed at the surface of the skin; or blackheads, which are open at the surface.

TOPICAL TREATMENT:


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Papules are comedones that have be-come inflamed, forming small red or pink bumps on the skin. This type of pimple may be sensitive to the touch.

Picking or squeezing can make the inflamma-tion worse and may lead to scarring. A large number of papules may indicate moderate to severe acne. In the treatment of acne, it’s im-portant to minimize sensitivity and discomfort.

• Canadian Willowherb™ and Sea Buckthorn Berry can be used to calm and soothe the skin. • Telangyn™, also known as Tetrapeptide-33, is a powerful amino acid sequence shown to reduce redness and erythema.

Pustules are another kind of inflamed pimple. They resemble a whitehead with a red ring around the bump. The bump is typically filled with white or yellow pus.

• Boswellia is an herb included in anti-acne skin care formulations as an anti-irritant and antiseptic to soothe the skin.

TOPICAL TREATMENT:

There is a link between stress and acne flare-ups. Whether one is experiencing physical or psychological stress, the body releases cortisol, a stress hormone that plays a critical role on the testosterone pathway.

Nodules are large, inflamed bumps that feel firm to the touch, while cysts are large, pus-filled lesions that look similar to boils. Both nodules and cysts develop deep within the skin and are often painful.

• Colloidal sulfur has been proven effective in fighting inflammation and delivering antibacte-rial benefits to the skin.

SPA AND MED-SPA THERAPIES FOR ADULT ACNE

• Deep cleansing facials are especially ben-eficial for adults with acne, because in addition to treating oily or acneic skin, they address un-even complexions, a common symptom that appears in skin as one ages. This type of facial typically incorporates a combination of thorough steaming, deep cleansing and facial extractions to remove pore-clogging sebum, along with a healing mask and moisturizer. • microdermabrasion treatments address acne and acne scars. The top layer of skin is exfoliated off, leaving a glowing complexion. It provides a deep exfoliation, loosening debris from the pores. This exfoliation also removes the raised portion of an acne scar. It’s best for non-inflamed acne, such as blackheads and whiteheads. • Chemical peels are an effective option for acne and acne scars. They can be made of sali-cylic, glycolic, trichloroacetic or Jessner’s acids. Each type has a different strength and effect on the skin. These acids chemically exfoliate the top layers of skin. This exfoliation signals the cells inside the skin to produce more rapidly, which can help hasten skin turnover and prevent pores from becoming clogged. Chemical peels are great for mature acne conditions because they are also effective on fine lines, wrinkles and hyperpigmentation.• lasers and light therapies reduce p. acnes bacteria. They reduce inflammation or shrink sebaceous glands, depending on what type of therapy is used. • Blue light therapy gently penetrates below the skin’s surface to eliminate bacteria deep within—without irritating or drying skin to pre-vent future breakouts. It can treat mild-to-mod-erate inflammatory acne, and is not effective for blackheads, whiteheads, cysts or nodules.

TOPICAL TREATMENT:

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• Photopneumatic therapy combines an in-tense pulsed light (IPL) laser with a gentle vacuum. It works by removing excess oil and dead skin cells from clogged pores. It’s approved to treat black-heads, whiteheads and some other types of acne. • Photodynamic therapy is a non-invasive therapy that utilizes light treatments along with the application of a photosensitizing agent. The photosensitizing agent causes the skin to be-come more receptive to light. After the agent is removed, a light treatment is administered. This treatment is thought to shrink the skin’s sebaceous glands, reducing the amount of oil in the pores, and thereby reducing comedones.

It’s essential for estheticians to be knowledge-able regarding ingredients and science-based skin care treatments for adult acne. Today’s acne clients want more than what the drugstore has to offer, and estheticians have the skills and prod-ucts to provide the right treatment for them. n

1 The Burden of Skin Diseases 2005. (2005). The Society for Investigative Dermatology and the American Academy of Dermatology Association.2 Branna, T. (2014). No Prescription Necessary. Happi, 55-60.

• Premier Dermatology, Bentonville, Ark.The Acne Clarifying Facial lasts 45-60 minutes and costs $125. • Allure medical Spa (numerous loca-tions in Mich.) Photodynamic therapy lasts between 30 to 60 minutes for each full-face treatment, starting at $520. Clients may need multiple treatments, depending on the severity of acne.• Skin Health medi-Spa, Dover, N.H. Microdermabrasion is offered as a single treatment or in a series of 6 or 10, each service lasting 45-60 minutes, priced at $125, $625 or $1,000, respectively. Customized peels can be added for $25 per treatment. • Eforea spa at Hilton Grand vacations, Las vegas, Nev. The Custom Cleansing Facial is available in 40, 50 and 80 min-ute options, for $108, $128 and $188, respectively.

Acne Fighting Tips For Your Clients

• Change pillowcase every two to three days. • Sanitize cell phone once a week.• Cleanse skin thoroughly each evening to remove makeup impurities that have accumulated throughout the day. • Clean makeup brushes once a week to avoid putting acne-causing bacteria from the previous day back in contact with the skin.• Avoid dairy products and carbohy-drate-rich foods, as their tendency to increase blood sugar may trigger acne.

April Zangl has been HydroPeptide’s CEO and co-formulator since 2004, and she works closely with HydroPeptide’s scientific advisory board to research new peptides and their ben-efits. Zangl is passionate about HydroPeptide’s mission to provide multifunctional products that deliver results without damaging the skin while creating a luxurious, upscale experience. Zangl holds a bachelor of science degree in Health and Wellness Promotion from Brigham Young University.

Erin Ferrill is a licensed esthetician and the national training and development manager for HydroPeptide®. She prepares, coordinates and conducts on-site and web-based educa-tion. Ferrill is also honored to serve as a Look Good … Feel Better program volunteer for the American Cancer Society, helping cancer patients deal with the appearance related side effects of treatment. She can be reached at [email protected].

Anti-Acne Treatments At SpasAnd Skin Clinics

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MONDAY OCTOBER 20

10:00 a.m. WeLCOme CeremOny by Will Strunk

10:10 a.m. empOWering yOUr BODy, minD AnD SpiriT: menTAL CLAriTy FOr LOngeViTy by EuGene Gant

10:40 a.m. SHOWerLeSS BODy WrApS (DemO) by Lake Louise, M. Ed.

11:20 a.m COnQUer OnLine SKin CAre SALeS COmpeTiTiOn (LeCTUre) by Bonnie Canavino

11:50 a.m. COLD mArBLe STOneS FACe reJUVenATiOn (DemO) by Pat Mayrhofer

12:30 p.m. WAXing eTiQUeTTe FOr ALL (DemO) by Melissa Black

GENERAL SESSION

WeLLneSS: minD AnD BODy SeminAr • Room 108 A 2:00 p.m. Superfoods, Super Beauty by Lake Louise, M. Ed.3:15 p.m. Juice Bars To Boost Up Treatments by Lake Louise, M. Ed.

meD SpA BUSineSS SeminAr • Room 108 b 2:00 p.m. Expanding Your Salon/Spa Into A Medical Setting by Alex R. Thiersch3:15 p.m. How To Partner With A Medical Professional by Alex R. Thiersch

CUTTing eDge SALOn/SpA BUSineSS • Room 109 b 2:00 p.m. Be Our Guest—Providing Quality Customer Service by Lisa Marie Arnold3:15 p.m. The No Option Consult by Lisa Marie Arnold

SUNDAY OCTOBER 19

SEMINARS


WeLLneSS: minD AnD BODy SeminAr • Room 108 A 2:00 p.m. Integrating Wellness Into Your Spa Menu: Trending The Next 2-5 Years For Financial Success! by Holli Beckwith3:15 p.m. Incorporating Nutritional Coaching Into Your Spa: The Path To Vibrating Health And Longevity! by Holli Beckwith

SALOn/SpA BUSineSS mAnAgemenT SeminAr • Room 108 b 2:00 p.m. How To Compete With Major Spa Chains by Lindsay Anvik3:15 p.m. You Need A Daily Passion Reminder by Lindsay Anvik

imAge SeminAr • Room 109 b 2:00 p.m. Your Eyes Tell The Story by Maisie Dunbar3:15 p.m. The Business Of Lashes by Mary Turner

MONDAY OCTOBER 20

STAGES

CHriSTinA USA • stAge A Clean Cosmetics With Real Results: Vinotherapy by Elena Davidson

pCA SKin • stAge b Hormones And The Skin by Barbara Devlin

CirCADiA By Dr. pUgLieSe • stAge C Using Enzymes And Oxygen To Treat Acne And Rosacea by Barbara Wilmot


CirCADiA By Dr. pUgLieSe • stAge C The Science of SWiCH by Barbara Wilmot

SUNDAY OCTOBER 19


pCA SKin • stAge b Advanced Chemical Peeling For All Skin Types by Barbara Devlin

CirCADiA By Dr. pUgLieSe • stAge C Understanding And Applying Circadia’s Chemical Peels by Barbara Wilmot



MONDAY OCTOBER 20

2:00 p.m.

3:30 p.m.

2:00 p.m.

3:30 p.m.

10:00 a.m. Opening CeremOny by Will Strunk

10:10 a.m. empOWering yOUr BODy, minD AnD SpiriT: perSOnAL empOWermenT by EuGene Gant

10:40 a.m. eAST meeTS WeST: re-SCULpT AnD re-COnTOUr yOUr CLienT’S SKin (DemO) by Janel Luu

11:20 a.m COmpenSATiOn AnD prOFiTS—mAKe iT A Win-Win (LeCTUre) by Dori Soukup

11:50 a.m. “LUK prA KOB” THe HerBAL pOULTiCe mASSAge (DemO) by Cecily Braden

12:30 p.m. AirBrUSH TeCHniQUeS FOr FULL COVerAge mAKeUp (DemO) by Sheila McKenna


SUNDAY OCTOBER 19

MONDAY OCTOBER 20

10:00 a.m. WeLCOme CeremOny by Will Strunk

10:10 a.m. empOWering yOUr BODy, minD AnD SpiriT: menTAL CLAriTy FOr LOngeViTy by EuGene Gant

10:40 a.m. SHOWerLeSS BODy WrApS (DemO) by Lake Louise, M. Ed.

11:20 a.m COnQUer OnLine SKin CAre SALeS COmpeTiTiOn (LeCTUre) by Bonnie Canavino

11:50 a.m. COLD mArBLe STOneS FACe reJUVenATiOn (DemO) by Pat Mayrhofer

12:30 p.m. WAXing eTiQUeTTe FOr ALL (DemO) by Melissa Black

GENERAL SESSION

WeLLneSS: minD AnD BODy SeminAr • Room 108 A 2:00 p.m. Superfoods, Super Beauty by Lake Louise, M. Ed.3:15 p.m. Juice Bars To Boost Up Treatments by Lake Louise, M. Ed.

meD SpA BUSineSS SeminAr • Room 108 b 2:00 p.m. Expanding Your Salon/Spa Into A Medical Setting by Alex R. Thiersch3:15 p.m. How To Partner With A Medical Professional by Alex R. Thiersch

CUTTing eDge SALOn/SpA BUSineSS • Room 109 b 2:00 p.m. Be Our Guest—Providing Quality Customer Service by Lisa Marie Arnold3:15 p.m. The No Option Consult by Lisa Marie Arnold

SUNDAY OCTOBER 19

SEMINARS


WeLLneSS: minD AnD BODy SeminAr • Room 108 A 2:00 p.m. Integrating Wellness Into Your Spa Menu: Trending The Next 2-5 Years For Financial Success! by Holli Beckwith3:15 p.m. Incorporating Nutritional Coaching Into Your Spa: The Path To Vibrating Health And Longevity! by Holli Beckwith

SALOn/SpA BUSineSS mAnAgemenT SeminAr • Room 108 b 2:00 p.m. How To Compete With Major Spa Chains by Lindsay Anvik3:15 p.m. You Need A Daily Passion Reminder by Lindsay Anvik

imAge SeminAr • Room 109 b 2:00 p.m. Your Eyes Tell The Story by Maisie Dunbar3:15 p.m. The Business Of Lashes by Mary Turner

MONDAY OCTOBER 20

STAGES


pCA SKin • stAge b Hormones And The Skin by Barbara Devlin



CirCADiA By Dr. pUgLieSe • stAge C The Science of SWiCH by Barbara Wilmot

SUNDAY OCTOBER 19


pCA SKin • stAge b Advanced Chemical Peeling For All Skin Types by Barbara Devlin

CirCADiA By Dr. pUgLieSe • stAge C Understanding And Applying Circadia’s Chemical Peels by Barbara Wilmot



MONDAY OCTOBER 20

2:00 p.m.

3:30 p.m.

2:00 p.m.

3:30 p.m.

Rhonda allison • ROOM 102 AInsight Into Acids by Shannon Esau

sesha skin TheRapy • ROOM 102 B Exfoliation TLC vs Tough Love by Vickie Reigle

NAtuRe PuRe LABs • ROOM 103 A Instant Non-Surgical Face & Neck Lift with Age Reversing Organic Bio-Actives and Micro-Needling by Victoria Tabak

MARtiNNi BeAuty, iNc. • ROOM 103 B Fast $$$ Comes From Fixing All Skin Imperfections Permanently In Esthetic by Lana Yu BiO JOuvANce PARis • ROOM 103 cMicroneedle Therapy With Bio Matrix Dermal Filler: Anti Aging Alternative To Restylane® by Sonia Boghosian

GLyMed PLus • ROOM 104 AProfitable Power Peeling with Oxygen by Christine Heathman

déLivRé • ROOM 104 BPolyfulmate®, a Registered Trademark, is Nature’s Miracle Molecule by Gary Black

BiO FRANce LAB • ROOM 105 AExperience the Immediate Anti-Aging Results of the Elite 24 Karat Gold Full ProtocolSet and the Powerful Natural Elements of the Sea by Marc Rosengarten

deRMAtude • ROOM 105 BDermatude META Therapy by Crystal McElroy

MeG 21 • ROOM 106 A-BToxic Sugars and Skin Aging: What, Why and How to Reverse It by Annette Tobia

LiGhtstiM • ROOM 107 ABrighten Your Future with LED Light Therapy by Gloria Timmons

iMAGe skiNcARe • ROOM 107 BPigmentation is the New Wrinkle by Jacquelyn Hill

iNsPARAtiON MANAGeMeNt • ROOM 109 ARock Your Sales and Marketing Efforts! by Dori Soukup

ciRcAdiA By dR. PuGLiese • ROOM 110 A-BA New Look at Inflammation and Aging by Michael Q. Pugliese

hydRAFAciAL Md® - edGe systeMs LLc • ROOM 111 AHydraFacial® 101 Certification by HydraFacial® Training Education Specialists

eve tAyLOR NORth AMeRicA • ROOM 111 BThe Use of Essential Oils in the Cancer Care Environment by Trish Green

OsMOsis PüR MedicAL skiNcARe • ROOM 112 AEverything You Did Not Learn In School by Ben Johnson, M.D.

deRMAwARe BiO-tARGeted skiN cARe • ROOM 112 BFace Perfection: The Medical Facial for Age, Pigment and Acne by Robert M. Zone, Ph.D. and Gül Ç. Zone

éMiNeNce ORGANic skiN cARe • ROOM 113 ADiscover Immediate Anti-aging Results with Organic Active Ingredients by Boldijarre Koronczay

sMOOth skiN suPPLy • ROOM 113 BThe 7-Min Brazilian Wax with Se-Brazil Waxes by Stephanie G Laynes

sAiAN NAtuRAL cLiNicAL skiN cARe • ROOM 113 cNon-Surgical Face Lift, Neck Lift and Collagen Infusion Therapy Achieved Through Galvanic and Microcurrent Technology and Natural Clinical Peptide Products by Dasha Saian

SUNDAY OCTOBER 19 2:00 to 3:00 p.m.

INCLUDED WITH ADMISSION INCLUDED WITH ADMISSION

NAtuRe PuRe LABs • ROOM 103 ATrue Breakthrough in Cellulite Treatment, No Equipment or Shower Needed by Victoria Tabak

BiO JOuvANce PARis • ROOM 103 cAll You Need to Know About Radio Frequency And Microcurent: The Latest in Skin Care Technology for Anti-Aging by Sonia Boghosian

GLyMed PLus • ROOM 104 AVitamin A Amino Peeling by Jessica Cummings

PcA skiN • ROOM 104 BChemical Peels for Sensitive and Ethnic Skin by Barbara Devlin

dePiLeve • ROOM 106 A-BBrows to Brazilians with the Latest Waxing Techniques by Deanna Derthick

ciRcAdiA By dR. PuGLiese • ROOM 110 A-BAge and Acne: Hormonal Influences by Michael Q. Pugliese



sPABOOkeR • ROOM 112 AYou are Mobile, Your Business Should be too! by Jim D’Arcangelo

éMiNeNce ORGANic skiN cARe • ROOM 113 AExperience the Power of Hungarian Massage and Stimulating Actives by Boldijarre Koronczay



Rhonda allison • ROOM 102 ALet Intelligent Ingredients Work for You by Shannon Esau

sesha skin TheRapy • ROOM 102 BThe Laws of Absorption by Vickie Reigle

NAtuRe PuRe LABs • ROOM 103 AInstant Non-Surgical Face & Neck Lift with Age Reversing Organic Bio-Actives and Micro-Needling by Victoria Tabak

MARtiNNi BeAuty, iNc. • ROOM 103 BMicrodermabrasion: Past, Present and Future by Lana Yu

BiO JOuvANce PARis • ROOM 103 cMicroneedling with Natural Skin Peels for Acne, Pigmented and Mature Skin. Expect Immediate Results! by Sonia Boghosian

sPAwARe sOFtwARe • ROOM 104 AUsing Social Media With Automated Marketing and the Easy 5-Step Selling Process by Blake Rector

BiO FRANce LAB • ROOM 105 ADiscover the Power of the Anti-Aging Pure French Peel Off Mask and the Value of an Active Anti-Aging Protocol Series by Marc Rosengarten



iMAGe skiNcARe • ROOM 107 BPower Peels by Jacquelyn Hill

ciRcAdiA By dR. PuGLiese • ROOM 110 A-BSunscreen Technology and Regulatory Updates by Michael Q. Pugliese

hydRAFAciAL Md® - edGe systeMs LLc • ROOM 111 AHydraFacial® 101 Certification by HydraFacial Training Education Specialists

eve tAyLOR NORth AMeRicA • ROOM 111 BAromatherapy for Stress Management and Related Emotions by Trish Green

OsMOsis PüR MedicAL skiNcARe • ROOM 112 AThe Only Alternative to Chemical Peels by Ben Johnson, M.D.

éMiNeNce ORGANic skiN cARe • ROOM 113 AErase Hyperpigmentation with Natural Hydroquinone Alternatives by Boldijarre Koronczay



MONDAY OCTOBER 20 2:00 to 3:00 p.m.

PcA skiN • ROOM 104 BRejuvenation of the Aging Face by Barbara Devlin

MAxcARA • ROOM 106 A-BMaxcara Semi-permanent Lash Treatment by Deanna Derthick

éMiNeNce ORGANic skiN cARe • ROOM 113 AFight Acne and Rosacea Organically and Say NO to Chemicals by Boldijarre Koronczay



Rhonda allison • ROOM 102 AInsight Into Acids by Shannon Esau

sesha skin TheRapy • ROOM 102 B Exfoliation TLC vs Tough Love by Vickie Reigle

NAtuRe PuRe LABs • ROOM 103 A Instant Non-Surgical Face & Neck Lift with Age Reversing Organic Bio-Actives and Micro-Needling by Victoria Tabak

MARtiNNi BeAuty, iNc. • ROOM 103 B Fast $$$ Comes From Fixing All Skin Imperfections Permanently In Esthetic by Lana Yu BiO JOuvANce PARis • ROOM 103 cMicroneedle Therapy With Bio Matrix Dermal Filler: Anti Aging Alternative To Restylane® by Sonia Boghosian

GLyMed PLus • ROOM 104 AProfitable Power Peeling with Oxygen by Christine Heathman

déLivRé • ROOM 104 BPolyfulmate®, a Registered Trademark, is Nature’s Miracle Molecule by Gary Black

BiO FRANce LAB • ROOM 105 AExperience the Immediate Anti-Aging Results of the Elite 24 Karat Gold Full ProtocolSet and the Powerful Natural Elements of the Sea by Marc Rosengarten


MeG 21 • ROOM 106 A-BToxic Sugars and Skin Aging: What, Why and How to Reverse It by Annette Tobia

LiGhtstiM • ROOM 107 ABrighten Your Future with LED Light Therapy by Gloria Timmons

iMAGe skiNcARe • ROOM 107 BPigmentation is the New Wrinkle by Jacquelyn Hill

iNsPARAtiON MANAGeMeNt • ROOM 109 ARock Your Sales and Marketing Efforts! by Dori Soukup

ciRcAdiA By dR. PuGLiese • ROOM 110 A-BA New Look at Inflammation and Aging by Michael Q. Pugliese


eve tAyLOR NORth AMeRicA • ROOM 111 BThe Use of Essential Oils in the Cancer Care Environment by Trish Green

OsMOsis PüR MedicAL skiNcARe • ROOM 112 AEverything You Did Not Learn In School by Ben Johnson, M.D.

deRMAwARe BiO-tARGeted skiN cARe • ROOM 112 BFace Perfection: The Medical Facial for Age, Pigment and Acne by Robert M. Zone, Ph.D. and Gül Ç. Zone

éMiNeNce ORGANic skiN cARe • ROOM 113 ADiscover Immediate Anti-aging Results with Organic Active Ingredients by Boldijarre Koronczay




INCLUDED WITH ADMISSION INCLUDED WITH ADMISSION

NAtuRe PuRe LABs • ROOM 103 ATrue Breakthrough in Cellulite Treatment, No Equipment or Shower Needed by Victoria Tabak

BiO JOuvANce PARis • ROOM 103 cAll You Need to Know About Radio Frequency And Microcurent: The Latest in Skin Care Technology for Anti-Aging by Sonia Boghosian

GLyMed PLus • ROOM 104 AVitamin A Amino Peeling by Jessica Cummings

PcA skiN • ROOM 104 BChemical Peels for Sensitive and Ethnic Skin by Barbara Devlin


ciRcAdiA By dR. PuGLiese • ROOM 110 A-BAge and Acne: Hormonal Influences by Michael Q. Pugliese



sPABOOkeR • ROOM 112 AYou are Mobile, Your Business Should be too! by Jim D’Arcangelo

éMiNeNce ORGANic skiN cARe • ROOM 113 AExperience the Power of Hungarian Massage and Stimulating Actives by Boldijarre Koronczay



Rhonda allison • ROOM 102 ALet Intelligent Ingredients Work for You by Shannon Esau

sesha skin TheRapy • ROOM 102 BThe Laws of Absorption by Vickie Reigle

NAtuRe PuRe LABs • ROOM 103 AInstant Non-Surgical Face & Neck Lift with Age Reversing Organic Bio-Actives and Micro-Needling by Victoria Tabak

MARtiNNi BeAuty, iNc. • ROOM 103 BMicrodermabrasion: Past, Present and Future by Lana Yu

BiO JOuvANce PARis • ROOM 103 cMicroneedling with Natural Skin Peels for Acne, Pigmented and Mature Skin. Expect Immediate Results! by Sonia Boghosian

sPAwARe sOFtwARe • ROOM 104 AUsing Social Media With Automated Marketing and the Easy 5-Step Selling Process by Blake Rector

BiO FRANce LAB • ROOM 105 ADiscover the Power of the Anti-Aging Pure French Peel Off Mask and the Value of an Active Anti-Aging Protocol Series by Marc Rosengarten



iMAGe skiNcARe • ROOM 107 BPower Peels by Jacquelyn Hill

ciRcAdiA By dR. PuGLiese • ROOM 110 A-BSunscreen Technology and Regulatory Updates by Michael Q. Pugliese

hydRAFAciAL Md® - edGe systeMs LLc • ROOM 111 AHydraFacial® 101 Certification by HydraFacial Training Education Specialists

eve tAyLOR NORth AMeRicA • ROOM 111 BAromatherapy for Stress Management and Related Emotions by Trish Green

OsMOsis PüR MedicAL skiNcARe • ROOM 112 AThe Only Alternative to Chemical Peels by Ben Johnson, M.D.

éMiNeNce ORGANic skiN cARe • ROOM 113 AErase Hyperpigmentation with Natural Hydroquinone Alternatives by Boldijarre Koronczay




PcA skiN • ROOM 104 BRejuvenation of the Aging Face by Barbara Devlin

MAxcARA • ROOM 106 A-BMaxcara Semi-permanent Lash Treatment by Deanna Derthick

éMiNeNce ORGANic skiN cARe • ROOM 113 AFight Acne and Rosacea Organically and Say NO to Chemicals by Boldijarre Koronczay



EXHIBITOR LIST

Visit www.LNEONLINE.COM FOR ALL DEtAiLs

Ace Beauty Group AerolaseAesthetics Complete, Inc. Aesthetics UniqueAlexander’s Aesthetics, Inc.Allegra M. FranceArmesso MesotherapyAssociated Skin Care ProfessionalsAthena Beauty, Inc.B & S Beauty SupplyB2 Organic, Inc.Bass BrushBeaming White LLC Beaute Tsuru DBA KSK EnterpriseBeauties City Supplies, Inc.Beauty Attica, Inc.Beauty ImageBeauty Secrets Global Spa ImportsBella BaciBella Schneider BeautyBellefontaineBio France LabBio JouvanceBio RegenerativeBioPhotasBlincBody Slimming ExpertsBon Vital’, Inc. Bronze BiologicBRS Products - Stem Cell-Based Cosmeceuticals & SpaCailyn CosmeticsCandy Coat Beauty LLCCass Luxury ShapewearCeluvia, LLCChristina USACiateCircadia By Dr. PuglieseClareBlendClearChoiceClear FX SkinCliona Eterral BeautyCrown Brush CryoConcepts, LPDelivreDepilèveDermapenworldDermascope Magazine DermatudeDermaQuipDermAware Bio-Targeted Skin CareDiamond Way Ayurveda

DiamondTomeDPC Int’l, Inc.Dr. Jeff Skin Care EcoGenics Active Botanical Skin CareÉminence Organic Skin CareEndless Beauty BandEquiproEve Taylor North AmericaEye Kandy CosmeticsGermaine de CapucciniGlyMed PlusGold Cosmetics & Skin care GrandeHairGrandeLash Hale CosmeceuticalsHealth and Beauty ConnectionHydraFacial MD® - Edge Systems LLCHydroPeptideIBC, LLC (Integrated Beauty Concepts)If SkincareImage Derm, Inc. Image SkincareInfra Slim BodyInsparation ManagementInstitute for Laser MedicineJane ScrivnerJenetiqaJMT GroupKosmet, Inc. Lady Burd Exclusive Private Label Cosmetics Lash bomb Le Mieux CosmeticsLes Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa Magazine LightStimLôngmi Lashes By DanielLycon WaxM.A.D SkincareM.A. Dermaceuticals Magazine Service Outlet (CMS of Holland)Manufacturing Beauty®

Martinni Beauty, Inc.MaxcaraMedspa Distributors, Inc.Meg 21Merrylaz Aesthetics USAMicroplane Personal Care Minky’s Monique MathieuMorphe Makeup BrushesNano YouthNature Pure Labs NCLA

NeurotrisNewApeelNova Skin Peels NufreeOlievedaOsmosis Pür Medical SkincareOtto Trading, Inc. PCA SkinPerfect Choice Trading, Inc.PetitePinnacle CosmeticsPranaSpaceuticalsPrimocyn Eau DivinePure InventionsQuintessence RA For MenRapid LashRejuva Skin CareRena Levi Skin CareRevitalash RevitalightReviva Labs Rhonda AllisonSaian Natural Clinical Skin CareSalonwearSatin SmoothSesha Skin TherapyShiraSilhouet-ToneSkin ActSkin Script Skin CareSkyn Lash AcademySmooth Skin Supply LLCSouleves Wellness Salon Spa Manufacturer DirectSpabookerSparenitySpaware SoftwareSquareSun LaboratoriesSussane KaufmannTassi LLCTei Spa EssentialsTexas Biostetic InstrumentsThe M’LisTizo By FalleneViktorian DeAnnVitality FX Detoxification StationVolcanic OriginsVyon

AS OF SEPTEMBER 1ST


IN PINKChances are, perhaps unbeknown to you, at least one of your clients has it, because numbers don’t lie, and ex-perts say that as we advance toward the mid-21st century, more people will be diagnosed with the disease—cancer.

According to the American Cancer Society, by the time 2014 wraps up, there will be an estimated 1.6 million new cases of cancer in the United States. And incidences of cancer are expected to rise by 57 percent worldwide in the next two decades, the World Health Organization predicted.

If cancer patients count on their doctors to fight the disease, the ravages that the aggressive chemotherapy and radiation bring onto the body lead patients to seek healing treatments at spas to assuage the ailments that beset them, alleviate their spirits—if only temporarily—as complements to conventional treatments. Spas around the country have found a niche market in oncology treat-ments, and oncology doctors, nurses and other health professionals associated with cancer care increasingly recommend them to their clients.

by Nathalie Gouillou

The how-Tos of oncology TreaTmenT

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IN PINK


NICHE MARKET“I believe spa treatments have a role in

the care of cancer patients,” says Dr. Brian D. Lawenda, an integrative oncologist at 21st Century Oncology in Las vegas, Nev. “They improve quality of life, reduce stress, enhance self-image and can be very educational in terms of teaching patients how to select and use safe, non-toxic products.” If estheticians are natural caretakers, tending to oncology clients means more than having empathy, compassion, and exerting caution while providing services. “You need to have a special mindset for this line of work,” says Kerian Bray, an oncology estheti-cian and manager at Skin n’ Tonic, Lahaska, Pa. “As an esthetician you cannot be personally involved but you have to be caring and mind-ful.” Perhaps most importantly, one must truly understand the dos and don’ts of oncology skin care and esthetics to ensure that services pro-vided help assuage symptoms and do no harm.

Treatments to cure cancer are often the cul-prits to the havocs brought onto the skin. Just as radiation kills bad cells, it kills healthy cells as well, which leads to dryness, peeling, red-ness, itching, sores, hypersensitivity to sun and more. Chemotherapy also contributes to many negative effects such as dried, cracked and oozy skin. Nails also suffer discoloration and cracking. Cancer patients become extremely sensitive to the touch, and much precaution must be taken to not aggravate the side effects of treatments, which make oncology training a must. If extreme gentleness with cancer patients is necessary, oncology courses provide critical information on safe products to use and procedures, as well as risky drug/ingredient interactions and must knows on how to treat cancer survivors.

While there is no existing governing agency in the country that oversees oncology programs for estheticians and spa professionals, there are many courses available that have been en-dorsed by reputable organizations such as the American Cancer Society. If some spa profes-

sionals choose to go for these courses, others opt to follow the training provided by their skin care lines/product suppliers of choice. A spa professional certified in oncology skin care and esthetics can provide a variety of treatment including skin consultations, facials customized to each client, massage, reflexology, makeup application—including permanent makeup tat-tooing—nail care, as well as guidance on proper skin care products and safe ingredients. Part of the issue when it comes to oncology patients and how to help alleviate the ailments brought on by the aggressive therapies they receive is due to the miscommunication between doctors, patients and spa professionals because oncol-ogy spa care is a relatively new specialty. Some, such as Lawenda, argue that cancer patients lack the information they need to seek proper treatments and products. “There’s a problem of communication with doctors,” says Melanie Jeanteur, owner of Spa Care Center Oncology Spa, Boca Raton, Fla. “Doctors treat the disease, they treat secondary effects like vomiting but not the rest. They will say ‘oh, your nails fell off, it doesn’t matter, they will grow back.’” While the communication mishap is arguably a disservice to cancer patients, it allows spa professionals to step up and assert themselves as the skin care guides they naturally are.

SPREAD THE WORDIn order to get the word out about their

oncology treatments, spas and salons have been taking a very proactive and grassroots approach—with the old fashioned door to door. “I’ve knocked on a lot of doors, handed out a lot of literature,” says Bray, adding that 15 to 20 percent of her clients are cancer clients. Deborah Beers, a former oncology esthetician at the Oregon Clinic, Portland, Ore., (who’s now flying solo) concurs. “I kind of have to market myself, go to oncology clinics and drop off brochures,” Beers says. “I hit the pavement with brochures, gift certificates and samples.” For Jeanteur, volunteering with the American Cancer Society and the Look Good Feel Better program in Boca Raton, for which she attends monthly meetings, have been great ways to promote her special services. In addition, she advises going to those who are truly the primary point of contact for oncology patients, that is their social workers, nurses, nutritionists, health counselors and psychologists. “Every new cancer patient has a sort of social worker

skin | pretty in pink

It‘s so nice to see these stressed out women come out glowing and

so happy from their treatments, and they want to come back fast!


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assigned to them,” says Jeanteur. “These are the women that I meet.” Not only does Jeanteur talk about her services, she also invites them in to try them for themselves. Teaming up with local clinics has also been profitable to Jeanteur, who has a partnership with South Florida Radiation Oncologists—a group that has 17 clinics throughout South Florida. Word of mouth also remains among the all time favorites to spread the message. Beers advises letting anyone around you know that you are offering these treatments. “One out of three people I see is either going through something or knows someone who is going through something,” she says. Then once cancer patients have tried out and approved of a spa, they’ll share it with others as well. Bray explains that many cancer patients receive their intravenous chemotherapy treatments in a common waiting room, an ideal place for them to share their spa experience—and for salons and spas owners to promote their specialty.

TIPS FROM THE PROFor those looking to step into the world of

oncology skin care and esthetics, experts offer the following advice. “Hygiene is very impor-tant,” says Beers, to which Bray and Jeanteur concur. Oncology treatment professionals make it a point to use extra precaution when cleaning their treatment rooms to make the environment sterile and germ free for their immunodeficient clients and to use gloves, masks as well as dis-posable tools—precautions that many salons and spas already take with all their guests. Beers warns against using scented candles—com-monplace at salons and spas—because of the chemicals they release. Bray advises using leni-ency on some spa policies such as cancellation, as malaise can sneak up on cancer patients at any time. “I don’t charge for cancellations,” Bray says. “If they need to cancel two seconds before they walk through the door, not a problem, it’s out of their control.” Beers and Jeanteur agree. Beers offers discounts for her oncology clients, while Jeanteur holds a monthly free manicure event for the women of Look Good Feel Better.

If cancer patients return to salons and spas they’ve grown to trust during their treatments, they’re likely to come back once they‘ve van-quished the disease as well. Jeanteur says she has a few survivors who continue to visit her spa because they trust her services, the safety of the products she retails and the reputation she has established.

While treating oncology patients can be emotionally and psychologically taxing, on-cology spa professionals argue that it’s also tremendously rewarding. “Their life revolves around doctors and medicine and they take one hour for themselves,” says Jeanteur. “It‘s so nice to see these stressed out women come out glowing and so happy from their treatments, and they want to come back fast!” n

Nathalie Gouillou is the associate editor at Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa. A former news print reporter, she has been a writer for more than 10 years. She holds a bachelor’s degree in Communication and Print Journalism and a master’s in International Relations. Contact her at [email protected].

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October 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa lneOnline.com • Page 39

pumpkin?Shall we

GuideDid you know that fall’s most cherished fruit is also one of skin care's best kept secrets?

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Page 40 • lneOnline.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • October 2014

A fruit that belongs to the family of Cucurbitaceae that includes squash, gourds, melons and cucumbers, the pumpkin—the name originated from the Greek word “pepon” for large mel-on—is indigenous to the Americas, where they have been grown and har-vested for centuries. Native American tribes were said to not only eat the pumpkin flesh and seeds but also used pumpkins as medicine.

Its bold orange color is the first clue as to the goodness the pumpkin has to offer—high in carotenoids, which include alpha-carotene, beta-carotene and lutein, pumpkins thus provide po-tent antioxidants that fight off free radi-

It is said that some Native American tribes had spiritual dances dedicated to it, they called it “isqoutm squash,” we know it as the fruit of the fall—the pumpkin.

If pumpkins usually bring to mind the approaching holidays, spooky Halloweens, soothing memories of family dinners and the unmistakable fragrance of pumpkin pie, pumpkin as it turns out, not only feed our very souls and bellies, but are among our hero fruits, superfoods packed with goodness for the skin. More than a staple ingredient for kitchen recipes, the pumpkin stars in many skin care products for its amazing properties.

cals, help increase skin hydration, skin elasticity and collagen production. In other words, pumpkin can help protect the skin from the dry winter months that its harvest announces and help prevent the signs of aging. Packed with fruit en-zymes that act as alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) and vitamins A—it’s among the fruits that contain the highest amount of vitamin A—C and E that promote cell renewal, decrease blemishes and lighten skin, pumpkin is a true wonder of nature. It’s also loaded with the min-erals potassium and magnesium, which are vital for healthy cells. Rich in copper, an important mineral for collagen and elastin production, pumpkin also fea-tures zinc, which helps regulate sebum production and is important to heal wounds as well. And pumpkin’s small molecular structure allows for deeper skin penetration and absorption, ideal for topical skin care.

If that were not enough, its seeds have much to provide as well—which makes sense since they’re meant to become full-grown “squash.” Filled with vitamin E, selenium, zinc and fatty acids, pumpkin seeds are great for anti-aging—its vitamins and minerals help boost collagen—and are an ideal ally against acne, as its nutrients will help control hormones and oil production.

Pumpkin can be used in a variety of treatments at your salon or spa, from facial to body masks (including wraps and scrubs), peels to pedicures and massages with pumpkin seed oil. You can also stock up your retail area with some pumpkin moisturizer, cleanser, eye cream … you name it (see our pho-to shoot on page 52 for a glimpse at some brands and products that feature pumpkin). n

Orange is in by Anna G. Wilhem

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THE pOWERof pumpkin

Not just a seasonal treat(ment) anymore

by Caroline Canetti

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Pumpkin peels are the perfect addition to your treatment menu for fall, as the smell evokes nostalgia for grandma’s pumpkin pie at Thanksgiving. But, pumpkin peels are not just a novelty item for autumn—the power of the pumpkin should be used year round for a variety of reasons, including how it stimulates the production of collagen, lightens pigmen-tation, reduces acne breakouts, and provides such anti-aging benefits as decreasing fine lines and wrinkles.

WHY pumpkin?Pumpkin peel treatments are well tolerated

by most people—people with sensitive skin and acne benefit from them—who respond better to pumpkin peels than glycolic peels. As they use the enzyme of the pumpkin to exfoliate and infuse the skin with vitamins, pumpkin peels can deliver immediate smoothness and clarity.

“Pumpkin pulp is a powerful antioxidant (beta carotene), which is a precursor to retinol (vitamin A) so it is brightening to the skin and plumping too. It’s a very active enzyme that actively digests dead skin cells so it’s also very exfoliating. Furthermore, there are minerals present in pumpkin pulp that are fantastic skin conditioners,” says DermaQuest CEO and Lead Chemist Sam Dhatt.

In addition to its anti-aging benefits, pump-kin is also great for acne. “The enzymatic action helps to reduce surface impaction, reducing breakout formation as well as brightening the complexion overall,” says Ivana Veljkovic, man-ager of product research and development, and international regulatory compliance at PCA Skin.

HOW iT WORkSThe pumpkin can be picked apart in a va-

riety of ways—using the pulp, pumpkin seed oil, pumpkin skin extract and even the rind. “Pumpkin seed oil is rich in essential fatty acids and nutrients. Pumpkin seed extract is a great source of vitamin A, and the flesh provides a multitude of nutrients and enzymes to the skin. Each formulation is different, but some com-panies utilize all three of these components,” says Veljkovic.

And what does it do? “It gently digests and dislodges non-living skin debris (think dead skin cells, bacteria and congestion) while deposit-ing over 100 phyto-nutrients and antioxidants that are found in the whole pumpkin, including the rind. The pumpkin peel can be an excel-lent alternative for those not wanting downtime peels and recovery time, while still producing a result that leaves the skin smoother, softer, clear and balanced,” says Irene Stuckey, director of education U.S. division at A Natural Difference Skincare. The alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) and beta hydroxy acids (BHAs) that pumpkin natu-rally contains, penetrate the layers of the skin and encourage cell turnover. The antioxidants also strengthen the skin’s defenses against free radicals, while the AHAs also stimulate collagen and elastin rejuvenation.

EDuCATiOn iS kEYAs Tony Vogel, owner of Spa & Aesthetics

MD (h2t) points out, before a spa adds a pump-kin peel to their menu, estheticians really need to educate themselves on three key things. “They have to understand the product and what is in it, including active ingredients. And you also have to understand the reality of what it is, and truly what the value is beyond the aroma. You have to know the pH and everything else that is in these products,” he says.

Vogel continues, “It’s not the pumpkin that is doing the work. It’s a good base, believe me it is, and there’s a lot of nutrients that have a lot of value. It’s a great enzyme base, but when you manufacture it, you lose a lot of that. So it comes down to what active ingredients are used. Bilberry, a super antioxidant, generates a lot of heat that allows for it to become a great catalyst for penetration. It allows for the concentration of our lactic acid to move deeper, where you normally would not get that penetration with-

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out added irritation. The beauty of that is you do not need as much glycolic. We only use 10 percent, with the high percent of lactic doing a great deal of the resurfacing work. Keep in mind, whatever base is being used (pumpkin, papaya, cranberry) it’s either the active ingredi-ents, pharmaceutically type driven ingredients, or the highly concentrated ingredients that are going to affect your skin the most, not just the pumpkin itself.”

Knowing the difference between how to execute a pumpkin peel versus other peels is key. “Typically pumpkin treatments should not be used with steam and excess massage, mak-ing it not the best choice for a traditional facial. You would not want to also use a mechanical exfoliant in the same formulation, as that could be too aggressive,” Veljkovic notes.

Of course, understanding the different strengths is important as well. “Ours come in four strengths. Each percentage is the amount of lactic acid in the peel and they have varying pH levels. Five percent is great for rosacea, sen-

sitive and home care skin. Ten percent is great for normal and dry skin and first time clients. Twenty percent is great for oily, congested and hyperpigmented skin. Thirty-five percent (a waiver needs to be signed with this since the pH is 1.9) is great for thick, oily skin, folliculitis (ingrown hair on men’s beard area) and thick callus skin on feet. The protocol given with the peels will indicate how long each peel can stay on the skin. It’s anywhere from one to 10 min-utes, depending on strength,” explains Stuckey.

Learning about the power of pumpkin had greatly changed the year round treatment menu at Lotus Organics Day Spa & Wellness, Bloomington, Ill., which offers a total of sev-en pumpkin treatments (see related story on page 46), including two peels. “I loved learn-ing about the benefits of using pumpkin when I started doing more natural and organic skin care. Pumpkin has awesome anti-inflamma-tory properties and can help control excess oil, so I have found that it’s excellent for those obnoxious acne flare-ups. I use a pumpkin peel

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with a slight glycolic added, which is an excel-lent form of exfoliation without being harmful to the healthy skin.

I often recommend it to clients for a spot treatment for acne or dry patches. The oils in pumpkin and pumpkin seeds are amazing skin softeners as well,” says Lotus Organics owner Lisa M. Roberds.

The most popular pumpkin treatment at Lotus Organics Day Spa & Wellness is the Pumpkin Enzyme Peel Skincare Treatment (60 minutes, $60). “This facial utilizes a blend of olive oil based cleansing with a special pumpkin seed facial scrub and pumpkin enzyme mask. I have also created my own facial massage oil blend specifically for this facial, which uses organic pumpkin seed oil, grape seed oil, vanilla essential oil, and a drop of cinnamon essential oil. I also use a spiced pumpkin body lotion during the hand (and foot) massage.”

She adds, “I think it’s a favorite among clients because of the warm, cozy scents throughout the entire treatment, as well as the soft afterglow that everyone notices with this facial. Many of my ‘aging’ clients use this as their go-to facial due to the softer, younger appearance they achieve with it.”

pumpkin TREATmEnTS Other ingredients that work well with pump-

kin include malic acids derived from apples. Mirta Sandomir, a lead esthetician at Voda Spa, West Hollywood, Calif., says, “malic acids have shown to promote smoother, younger looking skin by increasing the rate of cellular turnover and renewal. Skin will feel noticeably softer by digesting dead skin cells, decongesting the pores, and revealing a fresh glow.”

Voda Spa packages up their pumpkin offer-ings for fall as the Pumpkin Indulgence, which includes a 50-minute pumpkin apple spice treat-ment, a 50-minute body massage with pumpkin butter, and a pumpkin smoothie for a yummy after service treat for $290 including gratuity.

Heather Nicole Advanced Skincare, Beverly Hills, Calif., offers a pumpkin peel for $150 for the 60-minute treatment, or a buy five get one free deal. Her mix is formulated with glycol-ic acid, lactic acid, salicylic acid and pumpkin pulp. “A pumpkin peel treatment is relatively comfortable and lasts about 60 minutes. The treatment is with a facial, cleansing and light extractions, then the pumpkin mask is applied. It’s warm when first put on face,” says owner Heather Nicole Funk.

“This will last for several minutes. Some patients call this feeling ‘warm and prickly.’ It then changes to a pleasant feeling of tighten-ing. You will then be layered with calming and nourishing balms to soothe and protect the skin. After treatment your skin will be slightly pink and you can resume normal activities that day,” Funk continues.

At Flying Beauticians, San Francisco and Mill Valley, Calif., they have titled their pump-kin treatment as Planet Gourd-Gous (75 min-utes, $125), which combines pumpkin extract with wine enzymes and fruit acids. Full Circle Wellness Center, Los Ranchos, N.M., uses a mix of raw pumpkin, lactic acid, glycolic acid, salicylic acid, white willow bark and bisabolol for their Pumpkin Facial ($120) and Pumpkin Peel ($80).

The Spa at the Omni Tucson National Resort, Tucson, Ariz., promotes their Power Pumpkin Resurfacer as an advanced exfoliating treatment for age management, acne and hyperpigmen-tation concerns (30 minutes, $70).

Valentina Spa, Nashville, Tenn, offers a Pumpkin Peel (60 minutes, $85) and promotes it as, “a new alternative to AHAs, this exfoliat-

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ing accelerator and powerful antioxidant leaves your skin ready for better penetration of your skin care products.”

Another key selling point is that most pump-kin peels are great for people with sensitive skin. “It’s accessible to people that cannot tolerate BHAs and AHAs like glycolic or lactic acid. The pumpkin enzymes will give you a similar effect, but without the side effects,” says Dhatt.

Additionally, though most treatments do work better in series, many of our experts note that pumpkin peels show quicker results. “Most people will see a difference after one treatment. The skin will be brighter, smoother and rejuve-nated. But having regular treatment is always a good idea to achieve your optimal complex-ion, regardless of the treatment being used,” says Veljkovic.

Your clients may ask why choose a pumpkin peel over the glycolic peel. The answer: “Well they simply do different things! Enzymes are se-rious scavengers and actively digest dead skin. Acids tend to break dead skin up and loosen it, but enzymes are like Pac Man and refine and smooth the rest away,” says Dhatt.

“That’s why we use both acids and pumpkin pulp in our Primary/Power Pumpkin Resurfacer, they are a fantastic pair. For some, however, they may just like pumpkin better than glycolic because it’s so much less irritating,” Dhatt con-tinues. But whether glycolic peel is truly “bet-ter” than pumpkin peel, Veljkovic says, “this is subjective. Alpha hydroxyl acids function in a completely different fashion from a pumpkin mask. Glycolic acid does tend to get a bit hot-ter on the skin and will induce post-procedure exfoliation, while a typical pumpkin treatment will not. It’s truly preference. They’re both good for different purposes.”

ADD-OnS AnD RETAiLPumpkin peels or pumpkin masks also work

as a great add-on to your existing treatments. Pumpkin peel is an amazing foot and hand ther-apy system. Offered as an add-on to any pedi-cure/manicure, the pumpkin peel provides relief and improves the appearance of dry, cracked and calloused feet or hands, Vogel says. Envy Salon and Spa, Elkton, Md., offers a pumpkin peel add-on in their cooler months because of the warming feeling of the pumpkin ($15). Most smaller spas around the country fall somewhere

between $15-$25 for an add-on. For example, Pela Cura Laser & Medical Spa, Columbia, Mo., offers their Power Pumpkin Resurfacer as an add-on to their Pela Cura Clinical Facial (60 minutes, $75) for $45 extra. Their full 45-minute Power Pumpkin Resurfacing treatment, which blends pumpkin pulp, glycolic acid, and salicylic acid, runs $80.

And don’t forget, at home pumpkin masks can boost your fourth quarter retail sales as well. “We offer masks as home care additionally so that clients can enhance their treatment more affordably any time they please,” says Dhatt. n

Treatment benefits summed up:• Increases cell turnover• Increases epidermal and dermal hydration• Stimulates collagen and elastin production• Lightens pigmentation• Provides anti-inflammatory and antioxidant benefits• Decreases fine lines and wrinkles• Reduces acne breakouts and assists with release of comedones

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Beyond

More pumpkin treatments to spice up your menu

by Caroline Canetti

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While pumpkin is a home-run ingredient for peels, facials and masks, there are many more uses for the seasonal fruit, as well as other key ingredient combinations to add a little spice to your treatment menu for this fall and beyond.

Great Face & Body, Albuquerque, N.M., combines pumpkin with two other autumnal favorites for their Pumpkin Power & Pecan Purification Wrap (90 minutes, $135) that helps

treat stretch marks. “While the holidays are normally for expanding your waistline, our fall inspired wrap uses natural ingredients to re-duce stretch marks, battle dry skin, and leave you feeling happy and smooth,” says co-owner Keith West-Harrison.

The wrap begins with the client actually making the Pecan Pie Scrub themselves as a fun way for them to experience this treatment in a different manner. “It uses freshly ground pecans and organic butters. Then our Pumpkin, Sweet Potato, and Nutmeg Body Mask is smeared on while you are gently wrapped in warm blankets. Hot towels are used to treat you like an Autumn Goddess while we remove the mask and then we massage in our Cinnamon Rejuvenation Lotion,” adds West-Harrison.

Another great spicy combo (Pumpkin Apple Spice Facial, 90 minutes, $210) is cooked up at the Spa at Rancho Valencia Resort & Spa, San Diego, Calif. “The pumpkin enzymes pol-ish and buff the skin, while beta-carotene de-livers powerful antioxidants to make the skin glow. Vitamin A reduces the appearance of sun damage, leaving a brighter skin glow ready

for all those upcoming holiday events,” says Abril Gruber, spa director at Rancho Valencia Resort & Spa.

Lotus Organics Day Spa & Wellness, Bloomington, Ill., believes in the power of pump-kin so much that they offer seven treatments on their menu including three for the face, three for the back, and one scrub. “I started offering them as a promotion in October of 2009, and it was so highly requested for several months after that, it earned a permanent spot on my spa menu! Even on the hottest summer days, people request that warm, cozy pumpkin facial,” says owner Lisa M. Roberds.

Beyond the pumpkin peels (see related ar-ticle on page 41) at Lotus Organics, the spa also offers a Spiced Pumpkin Sugar Scrub Treatment for the body (60 minutes, $60), and a $10 add-on of a Spiced Pumpkin Scrub for the feet for their “Delight” treatments, which include the Pumpkin Delight Back Treatment (75 minutes, $90) and Pumpkin Delight Skincare Treatment (75 minutes, $80).

A great fan of pumpkin treatments who likes to take advantage of her spa’s semi-rural loca-tion (and thus likes to tie the farm to treatment seasonal concept), Kerian Bray, general man-ager at Skin ‘n Tonic, Lahaska, Pa., chooses to pamper her clients’ feet. Her Pumpkin Pie Pedi is among her fall offerings (60 minutes, $60). “We use the pumpkin as a mask after exfoliat-ing with a sugar scrub of mixed spices. A layer of pumpkin is applied, followed by a layer or two of paraffin, then placed into a warm bootie for 10 minutes,” says Bray. “The client ends up having a double exfoliation on the feet (scrub and pumpkin mask) and the hydration of the paraffin. Their feet are totally transformed.”

At Jamie’s Therapeutic Touch, Palestine, Texas, hands get the goodness of fall as well with their Pumpkin Spice Hydrating Spa Manicure. After careful cuticle and nail care, guests are treated with warmed towels, pumpkin spice scrubs and pumpkin spice butter cream, a par-affin dip with paraffin bags and a lower arm and hand massage. The treatment concludes with polish of choice (60 minutes, $40).n

The pumpkin enzymes polish and buff the skin,

while beta-carotene delivers powerful

antioxidants to make the skin glow

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by Caroline Canetti



ORAnGESELLSPumpkin retail opportunitiesby Alex Koo Murray

It’s the season for giving! Cash in on the mood and cheer of the holidays and the generous mindset of your clients by presenting them with unique products that will please anyone on their gift giving list, including themselves—not to mention save them hours at the mall—because orange is in.

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Page 48 • lneOnline.com


With your retail area ready to be loaded with pumpkin products—from moisturizers to eye creams, cleansers to masks and scrubs—a good grasp of your clientele and their shop-ping/spending habits, get your plan in place. Limited edition retail offers, including gift bas-kets, are great opportunities to awaken your clients’ curiosity and add to your bottom line.

STEP 1Narrow down your clientele

Who are your clients? Are they the traditional kind who like old fashioned products, packag-ing and smells, or are they hip young business people who like to be dared into trying out the latest trends? Take a good look at your loyal cli-ents and keep track of the treatments they go for, as this will begin to give you a better idea of who they are and what they like.

Then keep tracking some more. Don’t just look at the treatments they like to get a better sense of their taste, but assess their spending habits as well. Do they come in for a full day of relaxation and spend generously or do they enjoy the occasional facial or manicure? Look at their retail routine, do they purchase products from you at all? What do they go for (a variety of products from a skin care line, a small spur of the moment buy at check out)? How often do they purchase and how much do they spend on average? Get a full picture of your clientele’s style, likes and dislikes as well as their poten-tial budget.

STEP 2Select products

Your current retail selection is your best bet to pick those seasonal products. Dori Soukup of InSPAration Management advises spa owners to

stick to their suppliers and know what pumpkin inspired products each will have going on. For example, Soukup says, one skin care supplier will have a moisturizer, while the candle supplier will have pumpkin scented candles. Armed with this information and your budget availability, you can make your selection and order up.

STEP 3Team up and bundle

A great perk of the holiday season, Soukup says, is the opportunity to team up with local businesses. Collaborate with the florist, the baker and any other nearby businesses. Perhaps the neighborhood bakery has pumpkin cookies; ask them for a “cookie donation.” Treat your clients while letting them know where those delicacies come from—free advertising for the baker—says Soukup, adding “this is a great way to gain business to business relations.” Then bundle up. Don’t simply display your limited pumpkin products, but also create attractive gift baskets that your clients won’t be able to resist. Spas can negotiate donations from their vendors as well, says Soukup, expounding, “if I spend X amount of money with them, I can get this much in free products”—a nice way to beef up those gift baskets. Feature a selec-tion of easy to grab, ready-made gift baskets. “I prefer boxes,” says Soukup. “They’re more sophisticated, you can create a nice display.” The key, says Soukup, is to have three sets of prices for gift packages. An affordable gift pack-age at $25, another one priced between $55 to $70, and the third one for $100. “When you have three different priced products, you are giving people the option to choose and fit in their selection with their budget.”

Happy retailing! n

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lneOnline.com • Page 49


YEAR-ROUNDTO KEEP PUMPKINFIVE REASONS

If pumpkin inspired treatments are a sure way to get your clients in the mood for fall, the orange power fruit is very much deserving of a spot in your menu beyond the seasonal promotions that come with the falling leaves. Here are five good reasons to keep pumpkin as a star feature in your menu year round.

by Anna G. Wilhem

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PUMPKIN REDUCES THE APPEARANCE OF DIMPLED SKINAll of the above properties of pumpkin help smooth skin—since it makes it thicker and firmer—and thus make pumpkin worth a shot for anti-cellulite treatments!

PUMPKIN IS FUN!Let’s face it, pumpkin on the menu year round is an eye-catcher. If people expect pumpkin treatments to be limited time offers in the fall, there’s something special about being able to get a pumpkin ______ (fill in the blank) at any time of the year! Pumpkin brings images of holidays, warmth and soothing foods to mind. For some homesick clients, getting a pumpkin treatment could be just what they were looking for, something comforting and familiar with a myriad of benefits. If some people look to food for comfort, think of the powerful effect a fragrant pumpkin spice treatment can do for your clients’ hungry souls… n

PUMPKIN IS RICH IN VITAMINSPumpkin is rich in alpha-carotene and beta-carotene, two carotenoids that give the fruit its vibrant orange color. The first one converts into retinol, a type of vitamin A. A great ally for anti-aging, vitamin A supports cell turnover and the production of collagen. Both carotenoids are important for skin health. Pumpkin is also packed with vitamins C and E, which are potent antioxidants that are key in the production of collagen, boost cell regeneration and hinder free radical damage. Vitamin C has also been found to reduce sun damage. “Pumpkin is an excellent treatment for all skin types, especially environmentally damaged or sensitive skin,” says Myrna Beardshear, spa director at Red Mountain Resort and Spa, Saint George, Utah. “Rich in vitamin A (skin healing), C (antioxidant) and zinc, the pumpkin soothes, moisturizes and acts as a carrier, assisting other ingredients to absorb deeper into the skin and intensifying the results.”

PUMPKIN IS PACKED WITH MINERALSIt might be easy to overlook the importance of minerals for skin health, yet they are crucial to keeping the skin performing at its best. Pumpkin is loaded with potassium and magnesium, which are among the most common minerals found in cells. These minerals work hand in hand with vitamins and enzymes in fighting off free radi-cals and helping to counter skin sensitivity and conditions including acne and dryness.

PUMPKIN IS A POWER EXFOLIATORPumpkin contains power enzymes that act as alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs), which help in remov-ing the layer of dead skin cells and improve the appearance of acne and scars as well as photo-damaged skin. They also work on the deeper layers of the skin, contributing to thicker and firmer skin. That makes pumpkin exfoliation a gentle alternative to more abrasive peels. “I’m a lover of pumpkin in treatments,” says Kerian Bray, general manager at Skin ‘n Tonic Spa & Salon, Lahaska, Pa. “Pumpkin is generally used as an enzyme/proteolytic exfoliant, digesting protein and keratin buildup.”

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1. LOTUS MOON • pumpkin enzyme peel 10%smbessentials.com

2. RHONDA ALLISON • Pumpkin Cleanser with Lactic Acidrhondaallison.com

3. ÉMINENCEORGANIC SKIN CARE• Yam Pumpkin Enzyme Peelus.eminenceorganics.com

4. ANGEL FACE BOTANICALS• Pumpkin Renewal Smoothing Antioxidant Peelangelfacebotanicals.com

5. DERMAQUEST• Mini Pumpkin Maskdermaquestinc.com

6. GLO•THERAPEUTICS• Pumpkin Enzyme Scrubgloprofessional.com

7.ULTRALUXE• Enzyme Peeling Creamultraluxeskincare.com

8. BION RESEARCH SKIN CARE• Pumpkin Enzyme Maskbionresearch.com

9. PURECEUTICALS• Pumpkin Enzyme Cleansepureceuticalsskincare.com

10. DERMAWARE• Pumpkin Peel Maskdermaware.com

11. EPICUREN DISCOVERY• Pumpkin Apple Spice Peelepicuren.com

12. ADVANCED REJUVENATING CONCEPTS• Pumpkin Cleanser• Pumpkin Tonerarcskincare.com

13. HYDROPEPTIDE• Pumpkin Peel Acne Clarifying Power Boosthydropeptide.com

14. SIRCUIT COSMECEUTICALS INC.• Youth Accelerator+ Pumpkin Enzyme Peelsircuitskin.com

15. EMA CLINICAL• Pumpkin Enzyme Peelbiojouvance.com

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1. LOTUS MOON • pumpkin enzyme peel 10%smbessentials.com

2. RHONDA ALLISON • Pumpkin Cleanser with Lactic Acidrhondaallison.com

3. ÉMINENCEORGANIC SKIN CARE• Yam Pumpkin Enzyme Peelus.eminenceorganics.com

4. ANGEL FACE BOTANICALS• Pumpkin Renewal Smoothing Antioxidant Peelangelfacebotanicals.com

5. DERMAQUEST• Mini Pumpkin Maskdermaquestinc.com

6. GLO•THERAPEUTICS• Pumpkin Enzyme Scrubgloprofessional.com

7.ULTRALUXE• Enzyme Peeling Creamultraluxeskincare.com

8. BION RESEARCH SKIN CARE• Pumpkin Enzyme Maskbionresearch.com

9. PURECEUTICALS• Pumpkin Enzyme Cleansepureceuticalsskincare.com

10. DERMAWARE• Pumpkin Peel Maskdermaware.com

11. EPICUREN DISCOVERY• Pumpkin Apple Spice Peelepicuren.com

12. ADVANCED REJUVENATING CONCEPTS• Pumpkin Cleanser• Pumpkin Tonerarcskincare.com

13. HYDROPEPTIDE• Pumpkin Peel Acne Clarifying Power Boosthydropeptide.com

14. SIRCUIT COSMECEUTICALS INC.• Youth Accelerator+ Pumpkin Enzyme Peelsircuitskin.com

15. EMA CLINICAL• Pumpkin Enzyme Peelbiojouvance.com

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1. (H2T)• Natural Pumpkin and 30% Multi Fruit Complex Peelh2tspa.com

2. ZEPHANIAS ORGANIC SKIN CARE• Hydrating Pumpkin Serumzephaniasorganic.com

3. NATUROPATHICA• Pumpkin Purifying Enzyme Peelnaturopathica.com

8. NCN PROFESSIONAL SKINCARE• 30% Pro Pumpkin Peel • Pumpkin Enzyme Neutralizerncnskincare.com

9. KYPRIS• Moonlight Catalyst Pumpkin Enzymes & Peachkyprisbeauty.com

10.PAI SKIN CARE• Pomegranate & Pumpkin SeedStretch Mark Systemusa.paiskincare.com

11. JUNE JACOBS • Perfect Pumpkin Peeling Enzyme Masquejunejacobs.com

12.EILEEN MAI • Pro Pumpkin Enzyme Peeleileenmai.com

13. SANÍTAS SKINCARE• Pumpkin Enzyme Masksanitas-skincare.com

14. OFRA COSMETICS• Enzymatic Pumpkin Peelofracosmetics.com

15. ILIKE• Pumpkin & Orange Maskszepelet.com

4. PCA SKIN• Retexturize: Therapeutic Pumpkin Maskpcaskin.com

5. SAIANCLINICAL SKIN CARE• Pumpkin Spice Masksaian.com

6. A.N.D. SKINCARE• Phyto-Pumpkin Enzyme Peelanaturaldifference.com

7. CBI INDUSTRIES• Pumpkin Exfoliating Masque- Private Labelcbiskincare.com

… for this selection… … of power pumpkin products

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1. (H2T)• Natural Pumpkin and 30% Multi Fruit Complex Peelh2tspa.com

2. ZEPHANIAS ORGANIC SKIN CARE• Hydrating Pumpkin Serumzephaniasorganic.com

3. NATUROPATHICA• Pumpkin Purifying Enzyme Peelnaturopathica.com

8. NCN PROFESSIONAL SKINCARE• 30% Pro Pumpkin Peel • Pumpkin Enzyme Neutralizerncnskincare.com

9. KYPRIS• Moonlight Catalyst Pumpkin Enzymes & Peachkyprisbeauty.com

10.PAI SKIN CARE• Pomegranate & Pumpkin SeedStretch Mark Systemusa.paiskincare.com

11. JUNE JACOBS • Perfect Pumpkin Peeling Enzyme Masquejunejacobs.com

12.EILEEN MAI • Pro Pumpkin Enzyme Peeleileenmai.com

13. SANÍTAS SKINCARE• Pumpkin Enzyme Masksanitas-skincare.com

14. OFRA COSMETICS• Enzymatic Pumpkin Peelofracosmetics.com

15. ILIKE• Pumpkin & Orange Maskszepelet.com

4. PCA SKIN• Retexturize: Therapeutic Pumpkin Maskpcaskin.com

5. SAIANCLINICAL SKIN CARE• Pumpkin Spice Masksaian.com

6. A.N.D. SKINCARE• Phyto-Pumpkin Enzyme Peelanaturaldifference.com

7. CBI INDUSTRIES• Pumpkin Exfoliating Masque- Private Labelcbiskincare.com

… for this selection… … of power pumpkin products

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SPAof theMONTHBack to Nature, an Inspirational Retreat

POCONOS SPA at THE LODGE AT WOODLOCHHAWLEY, PA.

by Amanda Clinton Winter

The winding road through the forest leads only to one place. As guests get closer, the majestic trees seemingly close in, their all embracing limbs inviting one to surrender to nature and let go. The greeting of the towering cabin-like structure, its cathedral ceiling, impressive glass cupola, balcony overlooking the lake and oversized chakra bowls at the entrance set the tone for the rest of the stay—personal awakening is The Lodge at Woodloch’s philosophy.

“We all get swept up in the whirlwind of life and need an opportunity to rediscover ourselves,” says Spa Director Nancy Deaton. “With our philosophy of personal awakening, we pride ourselves in giving them that opportunity at The Lodge at Woodloch.”



Nestled in Pennsylvania’s lake region, the resort and spa rests a short 95 miles—a convenient two to three hour drive—from the New York City metropolitan area, and is easily accessible from anywhere in the Northeast. The all-inclusive property, set on more than 150 pristine wooded acres with a 15-acre private lake, offers a serene escape but boasts the luxury of proximity. With less than a decade of operation—The Lodge at Woodloch opened in June 2006—the luxury destination spa has swept dozens of awards, including the number three Destination Spa in the World by Travel + Leisure World’s Best Award 2014, and made Condé Nast Traveler’s Reader’s Choice Top Spa List in 2013.

Stays include rooms and all meals, fitness activities and classes, use of the spa and most lectures and events. Packages also include a personal spa concierge to help guests design their programs.

Guests have the choice between two packages, allowing them to choose between rooms plus à la carte spa

treatments, or receiving one treatment per day with their stay. “Guests have the opportunity to participate in creative discovery classes, outdoor adventure activities and fitness classes,” says Deaton. “They can design their stay based on what interests them the most and hopefully discover a new passion or dust off an old hobby, which they then continue to nurture once they return home.”

The 40,000 square foot spa is a sanctuary for the senses. Guests can relax at the coed Whisper Lounge or immerse themselves in the Aqua Garden, complete with therapeutic soaking pools and dramatic hydro-massage WaterWalls surrounded by native boulders. An indoor activity pool and an infinity-edge whirlpool located on an outdoor porch overlooking the lake are also featured.

Separate men’s and women’s locker rooms are adorned with fireplace lounges, a sauna, steam room and whirlpool facilities with screened-in porches, signature private shower and changing suites.

Active indoor pursuits take place in the expansive windowed cardio/weight training studio, spinning room, yoga/meditation and dance/fitness studios.

Spa services are offered in 27 treatment rooms and focus on the use of natural ingredients, incorporating therapies from Europe and the Far East as well as indigenous elements.

At the spa, guests are invited to relax and unwind to let their body and mind be awakened and transformed. With that idea in mind—and taking into account their 35 percent men to 65 percent women ratio—the spa offers an array of treatments that is sure to please all.

Their signature treatment is the Rosemary Awakening body treatment. Inspired by the healing properties of rosemary, the treatment begins with a stimulating body polish of sea salt, rosemary from their healing garden and citrus to cleanse and detoxify. Next, a full body massage enhanced by locally crafted rosemary-infused oils and herbal heat packs relaxes and restores tired muscles. p

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A warm seaweed wrap, steeped in extracts of Icelandic moss and angelica to nourish dry skin, and a luxurious scalp massage complete the healing journey (100 minutes, $250). Among their most popular treatments is the Restorative Herbal Massage, a centuries-old Thai style massage with a local spin. Guests enjoy gentle stretching techniques and a relaxing massage with warm herbal poultices to restore harmony, loosen tight muscles and stimulate blood flow and energy. The herbal poultices are hand crafted by their master herbalist, Nathaniel Whitmore, using traditional Thai herbs blended with local plants to provide a relaxing and detoxifying experience (75 minutes, $195; 100 minutes, $255). Another guest favorite is the Chakra Balancing Massage that uses handcrafted oils from a local aromatherapist. This unique experience blends Swedish massage, energy work and aromatherapy to restore the body while balancing one’s energy. The massage utilizes infused oils designed for each chakra, addresses muscular tension and imbalance, while gentle energy techniques promote deep relaxation (100 minutes, $250).

Guests can also choose from many facials and other body treatments. The Lodge Facial is their signature facial. It begins with an in-depth skin analysis. Botanical enzyme peels of sweet cherry, pear, fig or pumpkin exfoliate while profoundly effective serums deeply repair and hydrate the skin (50 min-utes, $125). The Gentlemen’s Facial is a customized facial designed for each man’s individual skin type to remedy the problems related to daily shaving and excessive environmental exposure (50 minutes, $125). The Lodge Body Polish is their customized body polish that features a unique blend of revital-izing herbs and minerals to help soften the skin and increase circulation (50 minutes, $125; 75 minutes with full body massage, $185). The Lavender Garden Dream uses the calming and cleansing benefits of wild lavender. Earthly minerals and lavender exfoliate during an energizing salt scrub, while a customized essence of lavender wrap with a warm stone back massage leads the way to a restorative full body mas-sage (100 minutes, $250)—all prices are for Monday to Friday and increase by $10 on weekends.

Day spa guests are welcomed with their very own brochure and packages such as the Evening Escape, which in-cludes one spa service valued at $125, the use of the men’s or women’s re-treat, the hydro-massage WaterWalls and pool facilities, the cardio weight studio and a gourmet spa cuisine din-ner at the restaurant (available from 4 p.m. to 8:30 p.m., $255).

Locals can also show their loyalty and appreciation for the spa’s unique services by enrolling in the yearly Rosemary Renewal Club member-ship, which includes five 50-minute spa treatments (valued up to $135 each); six complimentary certificates for a gourmet spa cuisine lunch at TREE Restaurant and Bar; two monthly com-plimentary day passes (which include use of retreat facilities, Aqua Garden, cardio-weight studio); a 10 percent dis-count on retail purchases; 15 percent discount on spa services and 25 per-cent discount on all private fitness ac-tivities ($799 for a year, valid Sunday-Thursday, excluding holidays).

Launched in 2012, the program, Deaton explains, came to be to en-courage local clients to visit the Lodge p

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and create a connection with it. “This program allows us to form long lasting relationships with our local clientele. It also encourages members to introduce friends and family to our property,” says Deaton. “We created this package to focus on our slower times, allowing for us to see an increase in revenue when our occupancy is typically lower.”

In order to create this member-ship—the spa counts about 65 mem-bers—Deaton says they made sure it would be of value to the guests and the spa as well. “Some of the components of the membership program cost very little to us, but are very popular with our guests, like our day pass, which helps keep our costs down,” Deaton says.

The Lodge at Woodloch also part-ners with local businesses, such as with a local aromatherapist who handcrafts some of their massage oils, relies on local purveyors for their restaurant and hosts quarterly community events.

If local events and memberships keep locals interested, The Lodge re-lies on word of mouth to attract new guests—that is on the good words their guests will share of their trip to friends and family—and on a dedicated marketing approach to attract new-comers and return clients. “We have a limited print and online budget as well as a dedicated social media cam-paign (Facebook, Twitter, Instagram

and Pinterest),” says Deaton. “Our marketing efforts have a goal to keep our name top of mind within specific niches of high-end luxury travelers with an interest in health, wellness, spa, nu-trition, gourmet cooking and outdoor adventures.”

In addition to its local happen-ings, other special events include their themed weekend and unique present-ers to keep promoting their offerings throughout the year. “We do target dif-ferent times of the year based on our need periods to attract new guests,” says Deaton. “For example, we partner with Dogfish Head Craft Brewery to provide beer inspired spa treatments and we kick this off each year with an Art of Ale Craft Beer weekend. This is not your typical destination spa week-end but opens the doors to a new set of potential guests.”

Inspired by nature and with a per-sonal reawakening mind frame, The Lodge at Woodloch is a destination to get away from the daily stresses and rediscover the stillness within.

“At The Lodge at Woodloch, we let nature nurture,” says Deaton. “We take our cues from the nature that sur-rounds us and provide guests with re-sults driven spa treatments that help ease both the mind and body. We pro-vide guests with the opportunity to relax and renew.” n

THE LODGE AT WOODLOCH

109 River Birch Lane, Hawley, Pa.570.685.8500thelodgeatwoodloch.com

• Launched: 2006• Facility: 57 guest rooms

THE SPA:• 27 treatment rooms (14 massage rooms, six facial rooms, three wet rooms, two couples’ suites and two treatment combination suites)• Whisper Lounge—quiet co-ed lounge with fireplace—Men’s and Women’s Retreat (lockers, showers, sauna, steam room, whirpool); Aqua Garden (WaterWalls, indoor pool, outdoor whirlpool); cardio-weight studio; two multipurpose studios; Lotus Salon; Great Thing Boutique• 39 massage therapists, 14 fitness instructors, 12 spa attendants (to oversee the locker rooms and Aqua Garden area), 11 spa concierges, 10 cosmetologists, nine prep at-tendants (to assist treatment pro-viders), seven estheticians, six spa management team members, four nail technicians, one lead massage therapist

PRODUCT LINE USED AND RETAILED:

Naturopathica, Kerstin Florian,

Organic Male OM4, Zents,

Moroccanoils, Spa Ritual

SIGNATURE TREATMENT:

Rosemary Awakening

Body Treatment

The Poconos Spa menu is reviewed yearly

Amanda Clinton Winter is the manag-ing editor of Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa. She has a bachelor’s degree in English Literature and Psychology from Wheaton College in Norton, MA, and a master’s degree in Public Relations from the University of Miami. Contact her at [email protected]. p

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October 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa lneonline.com • Page 63Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #294 on reader service card


Dry skin brushing‘s been practiced in many cultures through-out history as a part of one’s daily hygiene routine.

Ayurveda, a 5,000-year-old science that originated in India, includes dry skin brushing as part of its cleansing philosophies. In Japan, it was traditional to brush the skin vigorously with a loofah before taking the traditional hot bath.

Ancient Greek athletes used a tool known as a strigile after strenuous exercise in order to both clean the skin and promote healthy circulation. The Cherokee Indians used dry corn cobs in order to enhance the strength and beauty of the skin. Within traditional naturopathic writings, dry skin brushing is commonly referred to as a “dry friction bath.”

by Nina Curtis

WHEN FRICTION IS

WELCOMEDry Skin Brushing in the Spa

What’s Dry Skin Brushing?

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Dry skin brushing most often uses a natural bristle body brush to eliminate accumulated dead cells from the surface of the skin. It also stimulates blood circu-lation and the lymphatic system.

In addition, the massaging effect of the bristles, as they lightly brush the skin’s surface, is known to be highly beneficial for increasing warmth in the body tissue, which can improve the application and absorption of body se-rums, gels and massage creams.

Many spa treatments begin with a dry skin brush ses-sion to enhance and complement a body wrap, detoxi-fication seaweed treatment or aromatherapy massage.



spa | when friction is welcome

Benefits of Dry Skin Brushing

Gently removes dead skin cell layers from the surface of the skin to improve smoothness and encourage cell renewal. Stimulates the lymphatic system by aiding the flow of lymph fluids. The lymphatic system’s job is to eliminate toxins, and it’s an important part of the immune system. The lymphatic system doesn’t have a “pumping” device like the heart, and any accumulated waste can contribute to disease and premature aging. Regulates and increases blood circulation. As we age, we often lose good circulation due to a sedentary lifestyle, poor diet and stress. Dry skin brushing helps boost circulation.Rejuvenates the nervous system by stimulating nerve endings in the skin. This has a very relaxing effect on the body and mind.Increases blood circulation to warm the skin tissue. This helps serums, gels and creams be absorbed more readily.

Aromatherapy and therapeu-tic massage. Dry skin brush-ing before massage therapy

increases blood circulation, boosting muscle relaxation, body toning and skin tightening benefits.

Teaching Clients to Dry Brush at Home

Clients will benefit most from any professional treatment when they’re taught how to maintain the results at home. As professionals, we work with a client for about one to two hours in a weekly or monthly session. In order for our clients to see real changes in their skin and bodies, it’s imperative that we teach them exactly what they must do at home to maintain the results between sessions. The best dry skin brushes to retail to clients are the same ones used during a treatment. Clients can also con-sider brushes with longer handles since the client will have to reach their back-side. The dry brush should be made of natural bristles or loofah fibers. Explain to clients that skin brushing is best done on dry skin, prior to bathing. Brushing should be done gently in short, rhythmic, even strokes toward the heart.

Contributes to healthier muscle tone and better distribution of fat deposits. Skin will begin to show significant improvements in skin texture, tone and smoothness following daily use for a minimum of three months.

Applications for Dry Brushing in the Spa

Exfoliation and body scrubs. Dry skin brushing can be done before exfoliation products or

body scrubs are used to begin the ex-foliation process on the skin. This also relaxes the client, as the brush strokes are rhythmic in movement.

Detoxification body treat-ments. Incorporating dry skin brushing before detoxification

treatments stimulates the lymphatic sys-tem and aids lymphatic flow, enhanc-ing overall treatment results. These types of treatments are best scheduled on a weekly basis for a period of six to 12 weeks. Of course, diet, exercise and breath work are the keys to over-all success.

COMING NEXT MONTHLNE & SPA

YEAR-ENDREVIEW

GUIDEAll the tips you needto ACE your year-endperformance


WHAT LIES BENEATH

This October, banish a ghoulishly lifeless, dry exterior with a powerful blend of pumpkin pulp and enzymes. Unleash the hydrating, polishing power of pumpkin pulp and bring luminous, healthy skin to life.

Book your Primary or Power Pumpkin Resurfacer today.

Extend the life of your treatment and enjoy a special price* when you purchase the potent Essential B5 Hydrating Serum and Mini Pumpkin Mask home care duo.

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DermaQuest Inc.© 2014. All rights reserved *Supplies are limitedSay you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #261 on reader service card


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• Start by brushing the legs. Brush from the toes toward the center of the body, as this is the direction of venous and lymph flow toward the heart. When finished, the skin may tingle slightly and be a bit pink, and this is good! Don’t brush so hard that the skin is bright red or itchy.

• Next, brush lightly up and over the stomach and lower back, making sure to include the buttocks.

• Move on to the arms and brush from the fin-gers to the shoulders in short strokes toward the center of the body.

• Finally, lightly brush the shoulders and upper back toward the center of the body.

• Lightly brush the back of the neck to finish.

spa | when friction is welcome

Spas that offer dry skin brushing often include it in a treatment or as an add-on recommended to complement other services

• Body Oasis Day Spa Torrance, Calif. Earth Ritual Wrap, 60 minutes, $99

Guests become one with nature as their body is “dry brush exfoliated,” then paint-ed with a mineral enriched chamomile and marine algae mask, the perfect antidote for dry, dehydrated, undernourished, moisture starved skin. They clear their minds as they nap in a cozy-swaddle blanket wrap. This treatment includes a full body aromatherapy rubdown and scalp massage.

• The Spa at Barnsley Resort Adairsville, Ga. Dry Body Brushing, 15 minutes, $15

This service is available as a complement to any massage and body treatments.

• Glow Med SpaRichmond, Va. Hydrating Rose and Lavender Massage90 minutes, $110

This couture massage stimulates the immune system and promotes deep relaxation. It be-gins with a full body “dry brushing” followed by a warm, flowing body massage with rose and lavender infused cream. Clients lie on a bed of rose petals, and the experience finishes with a scalp and neck massage as they are cocooned in the petals. n

Nina Curtis is principal of Curtis Communications, Nina Curtis & Associates and the Nile Institute. Cur t i s rece ived her MBA from Pepperdine University and consults for

leading companies in the personal care indus-try. With more than 20 years of experience, she holds certifications in aromatherapy, reflexology, acupressure and color light therapy. Curtis has been instrumental in the development of train-ing programs for salons and spas nationwide.

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RESORTS P AC R E A T I N G

ExpERIENCESTransform your small spa with big resort ambiance

by Jenny Hogan

Your spa may not have the budget, square footage or allure of a destination resort in Bali or Istanbul. Yet you can transform your rooms and services to give it that unmistakable resort feel. Just follow the advice from these experts that will have your clients sigh with pure bliss. Ahhh…

Space ElementThere’s no doubt that resort spas are synonymous with spa-ciousness—ample hallways, cathedral-like ceilings and seem-ingly unending scenery. Yet short of remodeling your spa, re-creating that space might seem tricky. Spa designer Sam Margulies, owner of Atmosphere Spa Design in Montreal, Canada, suggests playing with lights, wall color and texture to give corridors the illusion of a resort’s scale. “The paint on the walls must be of a color and texture that will make the stiffness of straight narrow corridors disappear,” he says. Add to that two different sets of lights—on one side a series of lights looking down set at 12 inches from the floor, and on the opposite wall a series of lights looking up set at 6 feet—and walls will seemingly expand in front of you.


Although Margulies supports bringing col-ors to the walls, he warns against large murals of nature scenes that will significantly reduce the space—and if not done right will most likely look “amateurish.”

Another light gimmick if ceilings are high, says Margulies, is to add a faux ceiling that ends inches away from the walls with lights installed between the ceiling and faux ceiling, which will break the stiffness of straight walls.

If remodeling is of the order, then Margulies advises reducing the number of treatment rooms, arguing that six rooms with an 80 per-cent turnout rate is better than eight at 60 per-cent. He also suggests widening corridors by breaking the straight line, such as with curves.

Water ElementFountains might be among the first things that come to mind when one thinks of bringing water into their urban spa. Margulies cautions against including them in treatment rooms because the sound of water generates the urge to go… “This forces the person to get up, walk out of the

treatment room, and just like that we have bro-ken the resort spa experience,” Margulies says. Lynn Curry, spa designer and owner of Curry Spa Consulting LLC, Sonoma, Calif., suggests using mirrors. “Some clever mirror designs are backlit, they have etchings of water, and with the correct light, light that flickers, it gives the illusion of water,” she says.

While incorporating wet rooms—definite fixtures at resort spas—might not be feasible, Curry proposes adding a water ritual to your treatments, such as starting off every experi-ence with a foot soak, or turning the shower to double as a steam shower as well. Margulies agrees. Picture this: your small spa with an in-frared sauna and a shower/steam shower. You now have the potential to offer an array of com-plete body care with the flair of grand resorts. “You can create a complete body care starting with a few minutes in the sauna, then into the treatment room for a body wrap, then out to the shower/steam shower to rinse off and back on the table for another treatment, now that is five stars service,” Margulies says.

spa | creating resport spa experiences

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Heat ElementIf saunas go hand in hand with resort spas, ex-perts argue for the convenience of infrared sau-nas at urban spas. “Infrared panels are a smart choice […],” says Brian Paris, division president for Universal Spa Equipment. “Infrared heat also penetrates better into the body and detoxes from the inside.”

Margulies agrees. “An infrared sauna in a treatment room can give it more of a resort feel and you can incorporate more resort inspired treatments,” he says. If resort spa experiences bring images of chimneys and bonfires, forget about incorporating these at urban spas, ex-perts say.

Margulies contends that fire brings the bur-den of code compliancy, adding that faux elec-tric chimneys have just the opposite of a resort feel. Paris suggests adding the fire element with eco-friendly fire effects in floor inserts, on the wall or in glass tabletop units. The real fire runs on liquid fuel and has safety mechanisms to prevent tipping or spillage. No venting is needed and the fire provides real warmth, he says. Curry proposes faux fire done with light. “It’s a very cool item that you plug and it gives the illusion of flames,” she says, adding that it gives very little heat out, ideal for hot locations.

Sound ElementYet another touch to give your small spa a re-sort feel is through sound—or the lack of it. “In a resort you don’t hear a thing,” says Margulies, “but at an urban spa you can hear someone sneeze in the next door treatment room.” As such Margulies argues that good soundproof-ing is critical. Adding wall isolation could be fairly low-cost, Margulies says. In the event that it’s not feasible, he suggests white noise, which masks background noise.

Then, there’s music. Curry suggests having iPod docking stations in each treatment room, and either have clients choose from a list of music styles (nature, classical, etc.) or let them play their own tunes. Paris proposes face cushions for tables that have little pockets for an iPod to slip into and with built-in flat panel speakers. Margulies has this to add, “Have relaxing music in com-mon areas but not in the corridors because it’s very close from the treatment rooms.”

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Equipment UpgradesIs it essential to get new equipment to create a resort spa feel?

Not necessarily, says Margulies. Although some tables certainly lack that resort look and feel, there are ways to camouflage that. “Guests don’t really know about massage tables,” says Curry, “but they’ll know how it feels when they get on it.” Paris, Curry and Margulies suggest luxe linens that feel opulent to the touch. Curry advises going for heating pads covered with sheep skin pads so clients feel like “they’re in a cocoon.”

Simple TouchesSometimes the smallest things are the most memorable. While you could emblazon your logo on everything from robes to sheets, cli-ents will most likely not notice. The exception? “It sounds funny,” says Paris, “but clients will look down at their spa slippers the entire time they’re waiting for treatment.”

For Margulies, it all comes down to the ser-vice. No matter how nice and resort-like the spa may look, if the service doesn’t follow, the ef-forts are wasted. It starts with the way the staff looks (the uniforms), to the way they address the guests, and other little details such as a bowl of rose petals set on the massage table as the client walks in. “Provide food and bever-ages, offer a glass of champagne,” says Curry. “Order lunch from small catering companies, take advantage of local food and beverage opportunities.”

Finally, don’t discount the waiting/relaxing room that’s often relayed to one space in urban spas. Curry suggests using sheer curtain dividers or shoji screens to allow guests to have these last moments of relaxation with some seem-ing intimacy. Margulies proposes the follow-ing: “Eliminate the waiting room and have a relaxation room instead.” The waiting room is a space that shouldn’t exist if appointments are managed properly, he argues. If clients need to wait, they should do so in the retail area, where they should be stimulated with visuals to get additional treatments or buy products, he adds.

“Every spa is different with their challeng-es,” says Curry, yet with some creativity and ingenuity, your small urban spa could rival the big leagues. n

Jenny Hogan is the m e d i a d i r e c t o r a t Marketing Solutions, I n c . , a f u l l - s e r v i c e marketing, advertising and public relat ions agency specializing in the professional beauty

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PERFECT REFLECTIONQosmedix introduced two black folding counter mirrors to its collection of beauty supplies. The Small Black Folding Mirror is convenient for travel, while the Large Black Folding Mirror is perfect for display on a retail counter or in a salon, says the company. Both mirrors easily stand upright when placed on a flat surface.

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basically free advertising! They cost the business owner nothing more than excellent, consistent customer service, something they’re ostensibly already doing. Many business owners hesitate to directly ask customers for referrals because they’re afraid of coming across as “pushy.”

However, as a marketing entrepre-neur with years of experience in the beauty industry, I can tell you that ask-ing for referrals is anything but pushy. You’re actually doing your clients a fa-vor by encouraging them to spread the word about your wonderful services or products.

People are happy to extend refer-rals for businesses they love because it makes them feel good to share. Their friends, neighbors and co-workers are happy to receive referrals from a trust-ed individual, as this saves them time and frustration. So get past the mis-

Have you ever heard a business owner say at the end of a transaction, “The best compliment you could give me is a referral”?

This is a gentle reminder to satis-fied customers that referrals are always highly appreciated. But referrals are so much more than simply kind words; in fact, they’re absolutely essential to any successful business owner’s bottom line.

Research shows that up to 45 per-cent of businesses are chosen based on the recommendations of others—that means that almost half of all transac-tions start out with a referral. And with customer review websites like Google, Yelp, Angie’s List and Insider Pages growing in popularity, that percentage is rapidly on the rise.

Many business owners spend sig-nificant money on their advertising budgets, yet overlook the far reach-ing impact of the referral. Referrals are

conception that “referrals are pushy,” and focus instead on providing the best possible customer service and making the world a better place. It may sound funny, but it’s true.

Here are some referral types to consider:

Word of Mouth These are the referrals shared casually as the result of a particularly success-ful transaction(s). They tend to happen organically and over time.

Email SharingAsk clients to share your email offers with their friends, in exchange for giv-ing a discount on their next treatment.

TestimonialsA quick request for a client’s positive review can be used in future marketing materials.

Generate ReferralsLike Nobody’s Business!

by Louis Silberman

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business | generate referrals like nobody’s business

Partnership/ReciprocityLet’s say you’re an esthetician special-izing in waxing and laser hair remov-al. Ask a local hair salon to leave your business cards or flyers at their front desk and do the same for the salon. Partnerships are also formed by mutual referrals on websites, bulletin boards and promotional materials, and by of-fering time or services at partners’ net-working events.

Online Reviews According to one recent survey, 90 per-cent of respondents claimed that posi-tive online reviews influenced buying decisions, while 86 percent said that buying decisions were influenced by negative online reviews. Asking ev-ery single happy customer to write an online review for you is easy, but people don’t always remember to follow through. So entice them to do so with a coupon or discount for their next service after they’ve given you a glowing referral—and allow them to bring a friend with them for the same discount. The pos-sibilities for referrals via social media are practically endless. Here are some ideas to get you started:

Many business owners mistaken-ly believe that if they provide good customer service, referrals are inevi-table. This simply isn’t true, at least not always.

Asking for referrals on a regular basis has to be part of your overall business plan. You really need to get comfortable with it. Referrals are as important to you as your advertising budget and overhead expenses, so don’t minimize them. Be specific with your referral requests and resist pos-ing “Yes or No” questions such as, “Do you have any friends who would like an anti-aging facial?” Phrasing it this way makes it too easy for the customer to say, “No,” or, “Let me think about

it.” Instead, look for opportunities to be very specific. For example, one of your favorite customers tells you what a great result she got from her last facial with you. Bingo! It’s the perfect time to hand her two discount cards and say, “Susan, I’m glad you liked it! I’d love to get more clients like you. Would you give this card to your best friend for $30 off a facial? The other one is for you, to say thank you!”

When referral requests become a regular habit, you too will start generat-ing referrals like nobody’s business! n

Louis Silberman i s p r e s i d e n t and founder of National Laser Inst i tute, the largest cosmetic laser and medical esthetic training

center in North America. An expert in medical esthetics, Silberman is a medi-cal spa owner and nationally recognized author, marketing speaker and busi-ness consultant. Contact Silberman at 800.982.6817 or [email protected].

Post an offer on Facebook and ask existing clients to like it. When they do, their friends will want to try it, too.

Try a similar concept onYouTube, asking clients to share the video with friends.

Acknowledge a positive Facebook or Yelp review and offer a discount for your client and a friend on their next treatment.

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DUTYCall of

It’s a sign of loyalty, an indication of status at times, but most importantly it fulfills a fundamental human need—belong-ing. That’s what membership does. And when this applies to a spa or salon setting, there are many perks that come along with being part of a beauty and wellness group. But what are those benefits to the salon or spa owner, and are they worth the extra work? Adding memberships to your menu could be just what you were looking for to add to your bottom line… find out how.

Why a Membership?If memberships at chain spas might seem like a given—they allow frequent travelers to get their services at any of the chain’s locations—more day spas and high-end locales are also opting to add memberships to their menu and seem pleased with the results.

According to a 2013 International Spa Association (ISPA) study, 35 percent of day spas and 38 percent of resort/hotel spas offer membership programs to their clients—numbers specific to med-spas were not available. While spas have varying rationales for adding memberships to their menu, one reason trumps all: getting clients hooked and coming back. Memberships set in writing that sought after and spe-cial bond between spas and their guests.

When it comes to wellness, skin care and any other treat-ments (including retail), members will stick to their spa with an added sense of fidelity and trust—bearing a stronger and longer lasting relationship.

Creating membership programs for loyal customers

by Nathalie Gouillou


business | call of duty

Then there is more. Memberships bring up-front payments—a plus when the money is well managed. “It creates negative working capital,” says Nicolas Ronco, owner of YeloSpa in New York, N.Y. “Payments are made in advance for services that have yet to be rendered.”

And memberships pique clients’ curios-ity—they are encouraged to try new services. “We had members that would mainly go for nap [treatments] and all the sudden they are doing massages,” Ronco says. “Then we had members who would essentially do half hour massages who are now going for a full hour. We observe a change in the client’s behavior.”

Ronco sums up the cons as such, “The big-gest problem with memberships are the dis-counts that are offered,” he says, “but it’s com-pensated by the breakage.”

Indeed clients who purchase the member-ship but do not use it—paying for it upfront either for a set period of time or through a monthly automatic charge on their credit card—allow spas to make up for the loss incurred by

discounts. Adds Ronco, “the discount on retail and on services creates more traffic, therefore more opportunity to sell.”

Membership TypesMembership programs can be as original as

that of their creators, salon and spa owners, or they could be basic yet effective. A basic membership could be a flat rate that would provide a small yet enticing discount on all services. Another elementary plan could of-fer members a credit balance higher than the membership cost. Yet another option could be that the price of the membership includes a set of free services, discounts on other treat-ments and retail, and perhaps free access to seemingly cost-free services.

Spas and salons may choose to offer one single type of membership or a variety based on the types of services they offer, the clien-tele they have and the general image they may want to convey.

Massage Envy Spa, the notable chain spa (services include massages and facials) opted for a single membership ($59.99 or $69.99 depending on region) that provides its mem-bers with a monthly customized massage—or a facial for an additional $10—and benefits that include unused massage rollover and access to any location nationwide. In addition, members get retail discounts, massages and facials at a special member rate. “Massage Envy Spa’s network of franchisees […] provide 1.5 million services every month to more than 1.5 million members,” says Susan Boresow, chief market-ing officer at Massage Envy Spa—the chain has nearly 1,000 locations in the country.

The plan—which Boresow says allows the chain to keep its prices affordable to a greater portion of people—also entices clients by not automatically locking them into a yearly con-tract and offering the option of signing up for six or three months.

Trendy and High End SpasIf urban chain spas can attract people on a bud-get who still want to benefit from stress relief that spa treatments bring, resort hotel spas, trendy day spas and even luxe destination spas are increasingly looking into attracting and keep-ing clients through memberships.

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• Ronco launched his three membership plans at YeloSpa in April. For a set monthly price ($99, $39, or $29 based on the mem-bership plan), members get a free treatment (up to a certain value) and discounts on retail and other services. Ronco opted for monthly memberships, cancelable at any time. “We make people’s life easier so that they can leave the membership whenever they please,” says Ronco, adding, “the only thing is that if you want to cancel, you can only renew within six months.” The rule, explains Ronco, prevents clients from abusing the memberships and their offers by randomly canceling and signing up again. YeloSpa has been counting more than 100 monthly memberships from the time of its inception—more than expected says Ronco—and estimates that they’ll go up to 500 by the end of the year.

• The Spa at the Standard Hotel, Miami Beach, Fla., chooses to offer their guests a single spa membership, which includes a monthly spa credit of $175, discounts on additional services, food and personal fitness training, as well as unlimited use of the pool, hammam and gym. The idea, Standard representatives argue, is to target prospective clients beyond the guests on property to create “a strong community vibe.”

• With a similar idea in mind, The Lodge at Woodloch, Hawley, Pa., opted to launch its membership program in January 2012 to en-courage local clients to visit the Lodge regularly and connect with the resort and spa. The yearly membership (a $799 upfront payment) offers a series of spa treatments, complimentary lunch certificates, retail, spa services, private fitness training discounts and free monthly passes to the fitness center and pools. “We needed to make sure that the […] membership was of great value for the guest,” says Spa Director Nancy Deaton. “Some of the components of the membership program cost very little to us, but are very popular with our guests, like our day pass, which helps keep our costs down.” Deaton argues that the membership—the Lodge currently counts 65 members—not only creates a bond between locals and the resort, but also prompts members to spread the word about the spa and sparks them to purchase beyond what their membership offers. “I think once they are a member, they are here on a more regular basis and remain in that ‘spa’ frame of mind,” says Deaton.

Marketing In order to promote their memberships, many spas rely on their websites and in store market-ing. Ronco not only blasts emails to his current clients but also banks on Travelzoo—a website that publishes deals on travel, entertainment, local businesses, restaurants and spas. Yet the most popular tool he says, “recommendations from therapists themselves and front desk staff.” Deaton agrees. To that she adds direct mail pieces and promotions of their membership at special community events, she says.

Tips While some salons and spas might think that implementing memberships into their menu may not be a match for them—high-end resorts that principally cater to tourists for example—taking a good look at your current clientele and the possibilities will be time well spent.

“We did an analysis of our database where we have about 8,500 loyal customers and we identified about 300 of them as having the characteristics of membership type clients,” says Ronco. “Out of these we estimated that about 50 of them would sign up, what we hadn’t taken into consideration was that new clients would sign up as well.” Ronco’s last advice: “Go for it once you have high and consistent quality service […]. Don’t try to retain people through coercion that’ll only scare them away, what matters is that they don’t feel stuck.”

Memberships at Spas

MASSAGE ENVY SPAS

(with locations nationwide) Membership:$59.99-$69.99 (depending on the region)/monthClients can choose from a yearly membership, a six or three month contract (the latest must be paid in full)Benefits:• One monthly customized massage or one facial for $10• Unused massage rollover to the next month• Addit ional massages and facials at membersh ip ra te ($39.99 ins tead of $79.99 for non-members)• 10 percent retail discount

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YELOSPA

New York, N.Y.YeloSpa’s memberships have no minimum duration

Membership:YeloSpa Alive, Beautiful Club $99/monthBenefits:• One 60-minute customized massage or skin care service (valued up to $150)• 20 percent discount on additional services or gift cards• 10 percent retail discountMembership:Alive, Beautiful Waxing $39/month

Nathalie Gouillou is the associate editor at Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa. A former news print reporter, she has been a writer for more than 10 years. She holds a bachelor’s degree in Communication and Print Journalism and a master’s in International Relations. Contact her at [email protected].

Benefits:• One waxing service (valued up to $65)• 20 percent discount on additional services or gift cards• 10 percent retail discountMembership:Alive, Beautiful Napping $29/monthBenefits:• One 40-minute nap (valued at $40)• 20 percent discount on additional services or gift cards• 10 percent retail discount

THE STANDARD HOTEL AND SPA

Miami Beach, Fla.Membership:The Standard Spa Membership$325/month (A monthly $175 spa credit for treatments)Benefits:• Unlimited use of the pool, hammam and gym• 10 percent food and drink discount• 10 percent discount on additional services and personal training• 10 discount on hotel rooms

THE LODGE AT WOODLOCH

Hawley, Pa.Membership:Yearly membershipRosemary Renewal Club $799Benefits:• Five 50-minute spa treatments (valued up to $135 each)• Five spa friend certificates, for a 15 percent discount• Two monthly day passes to use the pool and gym• 25 percent discount on private training• 15 percent discount on additional spa services• 10 percent retail discount n

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RECENT addiTioNGlö Therapeutics appointed Christopher Hausman as executive vice president of sales. Hausman will be responsible for global sales activities within the company, and oversee the domestic and Canadian sales forces and its international distribution network in more than 40 countries. Hausman—who helped launched SkinCeuticals, Inc. before it was acquired by L’Oréal—brings 2 decades of experience in business development, operational management, branding and strategic marketing to glö therapeutics.

NEW RoLE + aWaRdGlyMed Plus’ owner Christine Heathman has been appointed to the Utah State Board of Cosmetology/Barbering, Esthetics, Electrology and Nail Technology Licensing. Heathman played an instrumental role in establishing the first Master Esthetic License in the country in 2001.

Christine Heathman also received the Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa Crystal award at The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa in Long Beach, Calif., on September 7, 2014.

oNLiNE SERviCESBioelements, the professional skin care line, unveils its Customer Gateway Portal, to provide new customers with an informative, innovative and interactive experience, says the company. The portal provides educational videos, product catalog carousels and other useful features. “We are excited to launch this new dedicated portal created for potential new partnership spas,” said Callie Lushina, vice president of marketing.

BaCk aNd BETTERThe Milady Education Network is now MiladyPro. Milady announced changes to the look and feel of one of the industry’s resources for professional education, says the company. With the re-launch of the new and improved MiladyPro, professionals can browse and view hundreds of articles, webinars and videos. “Milady has always been synonymous with high quality education for the beauty and wellness industry,” says Gerard McAvey, director of marketing and training at Milady, “and MiladyPro is the next generation platform to deliver that education.”

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by EuGene Gant

The power of words:Transformation at the cellular level

organic & wellness

Once upon a time, says the story, a Sufi—an ascetic and mystic—healed a sick child by uttering a few words while declaring to his parents that he would now be well. A man questioned the Sufi, arguing that simple words couldn’t cure. “You’re a fool,” answered the Sufi, to which the man took great offense, his face red and hot with anger. “When a word has the power to make you hot and angry,” continued the Sufi, “why should not a word have the power to heal?”

Words are powerful indeed. We often casually throw them around as if they didn’t really have much meaning or influence on people’s well-being and our own.

Perhaps you commented on your client’s tired eyes as they came in for their treatment. While you meant little

by your observation or were simply making polite conversation, your client walked away with these words echoing in their mind and body.

From the Dawn of TimeThe power of the Word has been at the heart of many traditions, beliefs and religions around the world, which acknowledge the Word, and thus the Sound, as the basis of creation.

“In the beginning was the Word,” says the Gospel of John. Yet long before this verse put forth the power of Word, the Hermetic doctrine of ancient Egypt worshipped the spo-ken word.

Quite similarly, the ancient Sufi tradition holds great importance to the Word and Sound from which it says the very first signs of life man-

ifested. Following the same vein, Shakti Naam Yoga—“naam” is Sanskrit for “word”—asserts that everything comes from Naam…

And There’s MoreWhat if I told you that every cell in the body has the ability to hear ev-erything that’s said, and then make it true? Trillions of cells embracing posi-tive words or reacting to unfavorable ones, uplifting people’s bodies and souls throughout the day or keeping them in a constant state of desolation. Trillions of cells echoing beauty or mis-ery, health or disease. Can you imagine what a difference it would make in your life and that of your clients?

While ancient doctrines have long insisted on the power of the spoken word and its effect at the cellular level,

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can feel.

Clients indulge in it.

Therapists prefer it.

Skin knows.

Performance Health®, Bon Vital®, Biofreeze®, Cramer®, TheraBand™, Thera°Pearl® , Pedigenix®, Prossage® and trademarks are property of Performance Health and/or its subsidiaries and may be registered in the United States and other countries. Unauthorized use is strictly prohibited. ©2014 Performance Health, LLC. All rights reserved.



scientific research supports the concept as well. Indeed, how one speaks to oneself and others ultimately affects every cell and organ in the body. Among many scientists, Dr. Masaru Emoto and Dr. John Upledger suggested that cells have a level of consciousness (and intelligence), the latter pointing to viruses’ ability to “fool” cells into accepting them.

Put in quite simplistic terms, the contention is that cells have the ability to hear messages and accommodate or react based on these. A positive frame of mind, and positive thoughts and words are crucial, because they establish a dialogue with the body and cells, leading to happiness and health.

Gratitude and Love at the Cell LevelSo where am I going with this? Positive reinforcement of cellular structures occurs when people are encouraged and appreciated. Telling yourself that you’re beautiful is a great practice that’ll make you feel better.

Telling your cells that they’re healthy and vibrant can be that much more powerful. Begin this challenge with yourself, taking two minutes each day to tell every cell in your body how grateful you are for their hard work. Then pass it along to your clients. As you speak positive words to them, they will bounce back to you, continuing to affect you.

Now how do you convey this to clients without sounding like you’ve just watched too much Star Trek? Don’t worry about the details and just do it! When a client walks in, let these be the first words they hear: “Hi, welcome. You look so vibrant today, let’s see how we can enhance that glow you’re walking around with.”

As you do so, genuinely address every cell in their body. Not only have you uplifted the person—this transfers into serotonin being released in the bloodstream, thus happy hormones—but your client’s internal dialogue is now set in the “I’m vibrant” mode for the remainder of their time in your care.

organic & wellness | the power of word

Your treatments will have that much more impact on them and they’ll be sure to come back for more.

It may sound strange, but talking to cells works. This simple assertion and practice has the power to transform your business and your life. Welcome to the next level in customer service… tell me how it goes! n

EuGene Gant has been a stu-dent of divine spiritual wisdom for more than 15 years. As a certi-fied meditation teacher, Naam Yoga therapist, and Harmonyum

Healing practitioner, Gant seamlessly combines the stillness of the mind, advanced breath techniques, move-ment, and plenty of laughs for the spirit and heart.

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2012Guiding Star

www.szepelet.comwww.facebook.com/ilikeorganicskincare

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Dip into the rejuvenating, hydrating and lifting eff ects of organic pumpkins and oranges. Full of vitamins A, B, C, D and E, carotene, biofl avonoids and other antioxidants, our Pumpkin Harvest treatments for face and body also feed the soul with the luscious aromas of the season.

As with the entire ilike line, these products are made of whole certifi ed organic pulps – not extracts! – to retain the full benefi t of the herbs.

Call today for face, body, hands and feet protocols.

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CranberriesBoasting multiple benefits for the skin, cranber-ries will be seen in a whole new light by your clients. Cranberry season means brighter, firmer and younger looking skin!

Cranberries are packed with health benefits. Scientists continue to discover the powerful attributes of cranberries and have identified mechanisms that help explain their anti-cancer properties. Not surprisingly, these handy little red berries can also do wonders for the skin. Keep an eye out for products with cranberries to incorporate into your skin care treatments and never look back!

A treat for your clients’ skin

When I think of cranberries, I think of Thanksgiving dinner. But cranberries are not just a popular

Thanksgiving delight and winter holiday staple,

they’re also a great addition to your spa menu.

by Natalie Pergar

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Anti-Aging ActionThe cranberry truly is a fountain of youth!

It’s high in polyphenols and vitamins C and E, which are all natural antioxidants that provide powerful protection for the skin against free radical damage. Over time the skin naturally produces less collagen, but the vitamin C con-tent in cranberries aids its production to help keep your clients’ skin firm and tight. In the fight against aging, it’s also essential to main-tain skin’s moisture. Cranberries can fill this role with the presence of vitamin B5, which increases moisture content in the skin, keeping it looking young and radiant.

no more breAkoutsThe anti-bacterial properties of cranberries

can really act as superstars to help clear out acne, pimples and skin inflammations. In fact, researchers at Worcester Polytechnic Institute have discovered that compounds in cranberries can alter E. coli bacteria, which demonstrates just how effective these fruits can be. If it can help overcome E. coli, imagine the impact it can have on the skin! In addition, vitamin B3 found in cranberries inhibits inflammation, re-duces acne scars and helps keep skin pores open. These red gems have limitless benefits!

Brighten up your clients’ dayMother Nature comes through once again

with a fruit that can lighten your clients’ skin naturally. Cranberries might be the perfect sur-prise for those looking for natural solutions for dark spots and visible sun damage! Like blue-berries and bearberries, cranberries contain arbutin, which inhibits the production of the melanin responsible for the hyperpigmentation that you see on the skin.

smooth things overCranberries continue to tick all the boxes

with their contributions to skin care by produc-ing seeds that can be used as a gentle and safe form of exfoliation in soaps and facial scrubs.

Since we’re more inclined to indulge or treat each other to some variation of this tart fruit during the holidays, you can build upon your clients’ association with cranberries and the holi-day season to maximize sales of treatments and products utilizing this ingredient. Additionally, in the harsh winter climate skin is also in need of an extra helping hand to look its best, and cranberries can definitely help combat dry and

The Spa at Norwich Inn, Norwich, Conn.,features the Cranberry Body Wrap. The treatment begins with an exfoliation with a cranberry body scrub. After rinsing, the skin is hydrated with an application of cranberry body butter and wrapped in a warming blanket (50 minutes, $125).

Joya Spa at the Omni Resorts Montelucia, Scottsdale, Ariz., offers the Cranberry Orange Body Glow. The aromatic sugar scrub combines with iron-rich kaolin red clay and transforms into a smooth mask to hydrate and mineralize the skin. The treatment continues with an application of golden mica and vanilla-muhuhu es-sential oils combined with Joya massage cream (50 minutes, $159/$169).

Watercourse Way Bathhouse Spa, Palo Alto, Calif., features the Sugar Plum Cranberry treatment. Clients sip spiced tea during a sugar plum infused steam to ease tension and open pores, while the antioxidant boosting cranberry pomegranate softens and rejuvenates skin (90 minutes, $158).

Overleaf Spa, Yachats, Ore., offers their Signature “Coastal Cranberry Kiss.” A gentle natural exfoliant of pure cane sug-ar and potent antioxidants derived from organic cranberry, pomegranate and apple juices is massaged into the skin. Treatment concludes with a gentle rinse and application of aromatic cranberry oil blend (60 minutes, $125). n

damaged winter skin. Keep your spa menu fresh and exciting, and get clients in a festive mood with limited time treatments featuring this deli-cious holiday staple! n

Cranberry Treatments

Natalie Pergar is an in-ternational trainer and credited esthetician with 19 years of hands-on experience. Pergar has been an integral part of the Éminence team for

12 years, wearing multiple hats as a skin care expert and conducting in-depth product train-ing for the company.



“The best quality tea must have the creases like the leather boots

of Tartar horsemen, curl like the dewlap of a mighty bullock, unfold

like a mist rising out of a ravine, gleam like a lake touched by a

zephyr, and be wet and soft like earth newly swept by rain.”

—from Lu Yu’s “Classic of Tea,” Tang Dynasty (eighth century).

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Legend has it that on a chilly afternoon nearly 5,000 years ago, the great ruler of China, Shennong, sat under a Camellia sinensis plant and boiled some water for a warm drink. As some dried leaves fell into the pot, the water turned a brownish color and exuded a comforting earthy aroma. His curiosity spiked, Shennong took a sip—and so it is that the first cup of tea was brewed.

Drank as a warm beverage, used for ritual offerings, its leaves eaten as vegetables and crushed for medicinal remedies, tea has been hailed for centuries as a wonder ingredient and continues to gain in popularity today as its beneficial properties keep on unraveling.

Elixir of youthIn the world of cosmetics, beauty and spas,

tea can be a power ally in the all time fight against aging. Its protective antioxidants, vita-mins and phytochemicals help promote healthy and youthful skin. Applied topically, tea pen-etrates the skin (especially after a good exfolia-tion) to bring its beneficial agents.

From facials to body wraps, scrubs and pedi-cures, tea can be incorporated in many treat-ments at your salon or spa and feature promi-nently in your retail area as well.

imperialbrew

The beneficial properties of teaby Nathalie Gouillou



organic & wellness | imperial brew

Let’s take a look at the wonders that tea from the Camellia sinensis plant has to offer, as well as the goodness some other herbal beverages (tisanes) commonly referred to as tea—rooibos, mate and chamomile—can bring to your treatments.

There are thousands of different varieties of teas, which not only tout diverse flavors and aromas but also can carry distinct health benefits. Among the most popular are white tea, green tea, black tea and oolong tea. White and green teas are by far favored by the cosmeceutical industry, as black, and oolong teas lose many of their beneficial properties through the oxidation process that gives them their notorious flavor—black tea leaves are left to dry and oxidize, and are then crushed for further oxidation that gives it its dark color, while oolong tea is partially oxidized.

WhitE tEaWhite tea, which gets its name from

the silvery white color that the leaf tips and buds take on as they wither, is perhaps considered the purest form of teas, as it is hand picked from the youngest and most tender leaves—it’s also the most expensive of all teas be-cause its processing takes several steps

that are quite laborious. Studies to test the health properties of several plants and herbs have shown the superiority of white tea for its high antioxidant levels and its ability to block enzymes from breaking down elastin and collagen that leads to the sagging of skin and fine lines that come with age.

Candle Day Spa in Frederick, Md., offers the White Tea Pedicure, which includes a classic pedicure, white tea sugar scrub, white tea moisture mask, white tea therapy lotion and paraffin treatment to help repair dry and dam-aged skin (45 minutes, $45).

GrEEn tEaPerhaps today’s most popular kind

of tea, green tea, is also highly valued for its beneficial properties. In order to prevent oxidation, the leaves are either roasted, pan fired or steamed. Green tea is packed with anti-inflammatory properties, antioxidants and a form of flavonoid (catechins, the most active ingredient being EGCG or epigallocat-echin-3-gallate) that protects against UV radiation. Studies have also pointed to its anti-aging properties in hindering the breakdown of collagen.

Silk Road Tea Spa, Victoria, Canada, features the Green Tea Facial, a restor-

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ative facial with the antioxidant power of green tea and regenerative effects of essential oils. The facial prevents fine lines, smoothes and softens the com-plexion and is beneficial for all skin types (60 minutes, $55).

Black and oolonG tEaOolong tea, which is partially oxi-

dized, and black tea, the most oxidized of all most popular teas, are known for their stronger fragrance. Although they lose some of their beneficial proper-ties during processing, they still contain good amounts of vitamins and antioxi-dants that neutralize free radicals and help with skin regeneration.

The Spa at the Setai, Miami Beach, Fla., features The Oriental Ceremony, which combines a gentle oriental mas-sage and a body scrub with white, green, black and rooibos tea for two (90 minutes, $520).

rooiBos tEaRooibos tea, also known as red tea

or bush tea, comes from a South African bush, the Aspalathus linearis, which bush tribes have used for generations as a comforting drink and for its curative purposes. Like tea, rooibos is packed with antioxidants and flavonoids that fight off free radicals and contribute to healthy cell turnover.

Angsana Spa Vineyard in Cape Town, South Africa, offers the Rooibos Tea Ripple, a 30-minute treatment that involves a rub with rooibos (30 minutes, $30).

MatE tEaYerba mate (from the Spanish) or

mate tea comes from the Ilex para-guariensis plant, that has been grown and consumed for centuries by the people of South America, especially in Argentina, Uruguay and Paraguay. Packed with vitamins and antioxidants, mate is often compared to green tea and is said to carry many of its benefits (their antioxidants, however, differ).

The Spa at the Four Seasons Hotel, Buenos Aires, Argentina, offers the Discovering Argentina, a massage



that uses local products such as yerba mate to nourish the skin, release ten-sion and create a complete feeling of well-being (80 minutes, $210).

chaMoMilE tEaThe European herb (from Matricaria

retutica and Chamaemelum nobile) has long been used as a tisane to appease stomachs and lull people into a good night’s sleep. Its soothing and anti-in-flammatory properties make chamo-mile an excellent choice for irritated and sensitive skin.

Aquaterra Spa at Surf & Sand Resort, Laguna, Calif., features the Chamomile Body Scrub, a two-step gentle body exfoliation utilizing pumice stone followed by a loofah scrub with a chamomile shower and bath gel, rich in

organic & wellness | imperial brew

Le Mieux• Collagen Peptide Serumlemieuxcosmetics.com

Epicuren• Himalayan Superfruit Enzyme Polishepicuren.com

Dawn Lorraine Conscious Skincare• Green Tea Nutrient Scrub• Green Tea Balancing Cremedawnlorraine.com

Ecogenics• herbal facial bathecogenics.com

Osmosis Pür Medical Skincare• Soothing Gel Herbal Mask Treatmentosmosisskincare.com

Circadia• Green Tea Mask• Red Tea Maskcircadia.com

Bio-Therapeutic• CHROMATIC Serumbio-therapeutic.com

DermaQuest• Delicate Soothing Serumdermaquestinc.com

Éminence Organic Skin Care• Green Tea & Guava Fortifying Serum• Calm Skin Chamomile Moisturizereminenceorganics.com

June Jacobs• Green Tea and Cucumber Body Balm• Perfect Pumpkin Enzyme Polish• Green Tea Serumjunejacobs.com

Bella Schneider Beauty• Glow & Go Tinted Moisturizing Sunscreenbellaschneiderbeauty.com

Rhonda Allison• Wasabi Mask Green Tea Therapyrhondaallison.com

BiON• Green Tea Clay Poulticebionresearch.com

Offer your clients the benefits of tea with this selection of products and brands!

botanicals. The treatment ends with an application of chamomile body lotion to moisturize skin (50 minutes, $120).

Conclude your tea services by of-fering your clients a freshly brewed cup of tea for an extra dose of comfort and relaxation, and let them surrender body and mind to the power of the divine herb. n

Nathalie Gouillou is the associate editor at Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa. A for-mer news print reporter, she has been a writer for more than 10 years. She holds a bachelor’s degree in Communication and Print Journalism and a master’s in International Relations. Contact her at [email protected].

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NiGHTTiME SECRETThe Beauty Chef’s latest Dream Repair Serum is a super-charged organic serum, packed full of active natural ingredients designed to repair and rejuvenate skin during the sleep cycle, says the company. The serum blends six vitamins (A, B, C, E, K and P) with four skin smoothing and rejuvenating omegas. Ingredients include: rasberry seed oil, acai berry oil, tomato fruit extract and sea buckthorn.

[email protected]

424.653.1400wholesale.xlvita.com

BiO COLOR THERAPyAltearah’s Bio Body Oils are ideal for maintaining skin elasticity, as well as nourishing, repairing and softening skin, says the company. Featuring apricot seed and macademia nut vegetable oils, which have protective and regenerative virtues, the oils restructure, moisturize and soften skin without leaving it sticky. Altearah is a line of organic products, for which the beneficial effects on the body and mind are inspired by aromatherapy and organized in a range of 14 colors for simple and fun solutions to people’s daily desire for well-being.

800.228.4254thalgousa.com

GLOWiNG FROM THE SEAThalgo’s Hydra-Marine 24H Cream from its new Hydration range, Source Marine, is a moisturizer that hydrates, revitalizes and boosts the skin’s radiance, says the company. At the heart of the formula is Sève Bleue from the ocean, a marine spring water rich in trace elements and mineral salts that drenches the skin with vital water and restores its barrier function.

SOOTHiNG GOODNESSJacq’s Organics latest Lavender Love Cleansing Bar gently cleanses and softens skin, while leaving it lightly scented with the soothing essence of fresh lavender, says the company. Combining French lavender essential oil, aloe and colloidal oatmeal in a base of creamy coconut oil, cocoa butter and shea butter, the bar can be used on both face and body for an all natural and all purpose product. Jacq’s Organics specializes in natural, handcrafted skin care, using quality, ethically sourced, raw ingredients.

754.300.6645jacqsorganics.com



by Jessica Heron and Alice Pichery

ravishing red lips!image

need the help of their beauty coach to choose the perfect shade for their skin tone.

This article guides you through the different shades of red lipstick and skin tones that are best suited to each.

Orange-red (vermilion): This color is great on warm and medium com-plexions and beige skin. Pair this color with warm and golden tones for cheeks and eyes, like apricot or peach tones.

Following the recent Fashion Weeks in Milan, Paris, New York and London, trends were set for the fall/winter 2014-15 season. Amongst metallic eye shad-ows and highlights for colored eyes, red lipstick has been ubiquitous in the collections. Red is the color of choice, from ox blood red to delicate coral stains. Purple was the accent color of choice. Red lips are trendy and a uni-versal classic like the little black dress, yet many women assume they can’t wear the color, which is false. They just

Raspberry: Contains pink tones that stand out against dark and olive complexions. Rich, copper skin is ac-cented beautifully with a brighter berry red shade. The brightness of fuschia and raspberry based reds complements the natural warmth of these skins. Top it with a shiny lip balm and keep it cool with pink blush and simple eyes. A little shimmer on the eyes to match the rasp-berry lipstick is fun and youthful.

Rose-red: Contains blue tones that are perfect for light skin tones. Pair these colors with pink blush and neu-tral color eye shadows.

True red: Pick this color for fair skin.

With doll-like porcelain skin, a true can-dy apple red adds lovely color and con-trast. Look for shades that have blue to bring out warmth in the skin tone.

Cranberry: Warms up fair skin tones

and is just enough color to look chic and sophisticated. Cranberry is a warm red, so pair this color with other warm tones like earth tones. Browns, oranges and greens look rich and fab!

Cherry red: Try this color for coffee

colored skin. Skin the color of black cof-fee looks great with a bright red for the same reason that fair skin does—it cre-ates a beautiful contrast. Use a glossy red with blue undertones.

Wine: When this deep red is used

against porcelain skin, it is quite lovely; violet tones keep porcelain complexions from looking washed out. Deep chocolate skin paired with a purple-based red creates an incredibly chic look, preferably with a bit of gold iridescence or glitter. Recommend other violet colors for the cheeks and eyes to complement this lipstick, keeping it somewhat monochromatic.

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image

AppleStrengthens and

protects skin cells

EdelweissA potent anti-wrinkle

treatment

GrapeProtects from UV rays and

environment stress

OrangeMinimizes fine lines/wrinkles,

cellular regenerator

Argireline® – Acetyl Hexapeptide-8Matrixyl® – Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4Syn®-Coll – Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5Regu®-age – Soy Peptides, Hydrolyzed Rice Bran ExtractEyeliss™ – Dipeptide-2, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7Rigin™ – Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7

Aldenine® - Tripeptide-1 Snap-8™ – Acetyl Octapeptide-3Syn-Ake® – Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide DiacetateNutripeptides® – Hydrolyzed Rice ProteinMatrixyl® synthe’6™ - Palmitoyl Cyclodextrin-38Eyeseryl® – Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5

+ Peptides

Plant & Fruit Stem Cells

“Inspired by nature... Realized by science.”

Stem Cells & PeptidesSkin Care Technology Here to Stay

Plant & Fruit stem cells have represented a major breakthrough in skin care, launching the beginning of a new system of treating the skin. With their ability to strengthen, protect, and replenish human skin cells, skin care has never had more potential to improve skin health and the appearance of aging skin. As Stem Cell Technology has gained popularity, Peptides have quietly remained a fixture in age-corrective skin care products. Their ability to stimulate different functions in the skin such as stimulating Collagen production, reducing fine lines, wrinkles, muscle cell contraction, and developing the dermal layer of the skin is unmatched. With both technologies working synergistically, we’ve been committed to using a wide range and high concentrations of both to formulate some of the finest, result-driven skin care available.

LUCRÈCE PHYSICIANS’ AESTHETIC RESEARCH | 800.626.7546 • www.lucrece.com



image | ravishing red lips!

After choosing the right shade, follow these useful tips to perform an outstanding, lasting lipstick application.

First step: Smooth out the lips. One un-fortunate consequence of wearing red lipstick (especially matte) is that dry, peeling and flaky lips are exaggerated. Use a sugar scrub to re-move any dead skin from the lips, and follow with a moisturizer or lip balm. Lips will look significantly improved in red lipstick if they are smoothed and softened first.

Second step: Fill in lips. Red lipstick tends to bleed, especially on mature skin or smokers’ skin with wrinkles around the lips, so fill in lips with a lip liner first. Apply all over the lips to make the lipstick last longer.

Keep the rest of the makeup subtle. Red lipstick is a statement—almost an accessory, so it’s important to keep the rest of your client’s makeup toned down. Strong eye makeup is acceptable for evening or event looks. Keep a neutral eye with soft skin to achieve this classic look.There’s no need to match red lips with red nails—that may actually look too vampy. A clear polish or light color is cool, and dark polish is a trend that will be around for a while. If your client wants to go red on the nails, make sure the color matches the lips. Choose lighter shades on your older clients, as lips get thin with age and dark lips can accentuate them. Try a rosy red or avoid red lips altogether and opt for a neutral shade, playing up the eyes instead.

At the conclusion of the makeup application, advise your clients to check their lipstick often and reapply when necessary. With the exception of some top-of-the-line lipsticks, it’s highly likely that the lipstick will fade or feather over time. When your client notices that it’s faded significantly, tell them to wipe off any that has bled outside the lips, even it out by wiping off areas that are particu-larly heavy and swipe on a second (or third) coat.

Apply these techniques and tips to send your clients off with perfectly pretty pouts this coming winter season! n

Jessica Heron is a licensed esthetician and national trainer for Sothys, with 18 years of experience in the professional skin care in-dustry. Previously the re-

gional educator for Elizabeth Arden Red Door Spas, Heron also served as a spa manager and es-thetician in various spas and salons in Minnesota. As a national trainer for Sothys, Heron is respon-sible for offering comprehensive training for the United States, Latin America and the Caribbean.

Alice Pichery has served as a national trainer for Sothys since 2012. She previously worked as a training assistant for L’Occitane en Provence in

Paris, as well as a spa therapist for various spas in France and Australia. As a national trainer for Sothys, Pichery promotes Sothys products and treatments through education, product knowl-edge, hands-on techniques and retail sales.

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VISIT US AT ICES PHILADELPHIAOCT 19 & 20 BOOTH #808



TECHNIQUES

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TECHNIQUESFour Fabulous Tips to Create a Balanced Face

by Chantal Sauvignon

In the world of beauty, people are always striving for perfection. Everyone wants a perfect body, perfect hair and perfect looking face. Any makeup artist worth their brushes will tell you that the most fundamental skill is knowing how to transform your subject’s skin to its most perfect appearance.

Working backstage at fashion shows, on set and beside some of the industry’s most talented artists, I have learned many strategies in this area. Here I will share my tips on how to create a more balanced face.

First, let’s talk about corrective makeup and what it means. This simply means to “correct or balance out” your clients’ features to create a more flattering face shape. Whether we are contouring a round face into a slimmer looking, more proportionate oval shape or trying to make the eyes look bigger, the same basic principles of highlighting and contouring apply. Basically, we are bringing forward or pushing out areas our clients like when we highlight, and receding the areas they don’t like when we contour.

correctivemakeup


image | corrective makeup techniques

It’s just a matter of proper light and dark placement. This applies to all aspects of makeup. Here, I explain some of my tips and tricks on how to properly conceal acne, minimize the forehead, open up hooded eyes and make the face appear more symmetrical.

Acne CorrectionThis is an issue many women and men struggle with. No one wants to wear makeup to cover up a “problem” area only to make it look worse. The difficulty for many lies in the proper application.

When you have a client with problem skin, the worst thing you can do is pile on makeup to cover up the problem.

This usually creates the look of wearing 10 pounds of makeup, which is unflattering and only makes the skin look worse.

Instead, try using a very light handed ap-plication when it comes to foundation, creating a nice, even skin tone. The next step is to take a full coverage cream concealer (not the liquid

type) in the same tone as the foundation you are applying, and with a small detailing brush correct the acne or bump.

Place the full coverage product directly on top and thoroughly blend out the edges to melt seamlessly into the foundation. Follow with a light dusting of translucent powder to seal in your correction. This method will create the most natural looking correction without emphasizing the problem.

Minimize the ForeheadMany clients complain about having a wide forehead that’s not proportionate to their jaw line. My main tip for this is to apply a sparing amount of contour powder one shade darker than the foundation along the hairline to make it recede, making sure to blend into it.

This often looks awkward because it’s not blended correctly. Another tip is to simply play up two other strong features to balance things out—the eyes and the lips.

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image|????




Open Those Hooded Eyes!The term “hooded eye” refers to a case

in which the eyelid is obscured by a fold of skin that hangs down. This can be hereditary or simply the result of aging. Either way, it of-ten gives the illusion of being tired, and many people with this problem find it difficult to ap-ply eye makeup. There are two ways to correct this problem.

First, find your client’s natural crease by gently pressing with your finger. Next, apply shading over the natural crease to “cre-

ate” a new one. It’s not important to make this a dark line, the placement is what truly matters. Next, apply a highlight color to the center of the lid to create a visual space between the lash line and the crease. Make sure to gently blend the “new” crease line so no hard lines are visible, yet leave enough color to create definition. Apply liner to the bottom lashes to add definition. Finally, curl the lashes and apply a few generous coats of black mas-cara, as this will help the eye appear more open.

Coat the entire lid with a neutral wash of color. A mushroom-like shade works really well. Next, take a darker color—perhaps a

medium dark brown shade, and concentrate it as close as possible to the upper lash line, blending upward to create a smoky effect. This creates a “gradient” effect from dark to light that really opens up the eye and diminishes the hooded look. Apply a light wash of the same medium brown shade to the lower lash line, smudging as you go to add defini-tion. Curl the lashes and apply black mascara.With either of these techniques, it’s best to use matte eye shadows, as shimmery ones tend to highlight the puffiness in the skin.

Facial SymmetryThis is one of those things that’s constantly

overlooked by many makeup artists, simply be-cause they don’t know how to correct it or they don’t examine the client’s face carefully. While it’s rare to find a woman with perfect facial symmetry, it can be very easy to take an asymmetrical face into balanced bliss with the proper placement of highlight and contour. Because each face shape is unique and so are their proper correc-tive techniques, here are some tips to balance

out a smaller eye and irregular eyebrows. Carefully examine your client’s face to find the asymmetry. Next, match and balance. The match and balance principle is simple: match exactly what you did on one side of the face to the other to balance the face out. Take a good look at the eyes and the eyebrows to correct any imperfections. Usually, one eye is slightly smaller or one eyebrow is higher than the other. If you notice any asymmetry, fol-low these quick steps to correct it:

To make the eyes appear the same size, highlight the inner rim of the smaller eye with a beige highlighting pencil. Many makeup artists like to use white, but white is stark and outdated.

Make sure to match both eyes with the highlighting, but do an extra layer of highlighting pencil on the smaller eye. This will enhance the appearance of the eye by making it slightly bigger.

Curl the lashes on both eyes, but do an extra curl on the smaller eye. This will ensure an extra “lift.”

Add an additional coat of mascara to the smaller eye. While this will be visually undetectable, it makes a huge difference.

Most women have uneven eyebrows. Whether one has more hair or a higher arch, this can be easily corrected.

Look at both of your client’s eyebrows, and you will probably see that one looks great. Take your inspiration from that one to cor-rect the other. Simply fill in the “great” eyebrow to the desired shape using a pen-cil, eyebrow powder or pomade, and then match the other side to create balance.

Don’t forget to set your newly corrected eyebrows with clear brow gel to keep them from fading away.

Highlight the top of the eyebrows with cream or powder. This creates the illusion of a lifted eyebrow/forehead.

Lightly, with a matte highlight powder, illuminate under the eyebrow to define and sculpt.

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Highlighting and Contouring Tips

● Invest in cream, liquid highlighters, contours and powders. The creams or liquids are simple to apply with the fingertips, and they’re also easy to wipe off. Powder products are best applied over your client’s foundation, and are very easy to blend.

● Make sure you’re using high quality brushes. The natural hair varieties are great for flawless blend-ing, but are difficult to use with creams or liquids, and extra care must be given when washing. These bristles are usually made from the fur of various ani-mals. The synthetic brushes are amazing for cream, powder and liquid use, and with so many high qual-ity brushes out there, you can achieve the exact (if not better) results as you would with a natural hair makeup brush. Plus, they’re cruelty free! Synthetic bristles are man-made, and are usually either nylon or polyester filaments. The bristles should feel soft, not rough or abrasive. A great quality makeup brush should be made of densely packed bristles, a solid handle made from wood or plastic and a shape that applies and blends makeup effortlessly and evenly. It should apply makeup successfully, meaning the brush shouldn’t absorb all of the makeup, nor should there be an immense amount of product falling out. To test the strength of the bristles, run the brush against your hand to see if any fibers fall out. If they do, don’t buy it.

● The contouring and highlighting techniques only work if they are applied and blended correctly.

● Get to know the contours of your client’s face simply by touching! This is the most effective way to properly apply contours and highlights.

● Remember to always “listen” to your client. While these imperfections could be slight or minor, correct-ing them can make all the difference in the world for a client who is insecure about her looks. n

Chantal Sauvignon is an expert in the artistry of makeup and skin care. She is a board certified esthetician and speaker who has become a distinguished name in the fashion and beauty industry. Her work can also be seen in films, television, commercials and theater. She is the

beauty editor and blogger at The Beauty Scoop. Visit chantalsauvignon.com for more information.

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Made in the USA*Estimated for 100 treatments. Depending on treatment ef�ciency and pricing, supply usage & revenue may vary. Limited Time Offer. Restrictions Apply.HydraFacial, HydraFacial MD, HydraFacial Nectre, and HydroPeel are registered trademarks of Edge Systems LLC. HydraFacial Wave, Edge For Life, and Skin Health For Life are trademarks of Edge Systems LLC. This product and its use are covered by one or more U.S. and International patents. Patent info: www.edgeforlife.com/patents. Other U.S. and foreign patents pending. Copyright© 2014 Edge Systems LLC. All rights reserved.

“We wanted something more high-tech, new, and cutting edge. HydraFacial MD® was a great choice! Our guests now enjoy immediate results and it is so good for skin health!”Gloria Ah SamDirector of SpaOjai Valley Inn & Spa

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This fall, metallic textures are ruling the run-ways! From eyeliner, eye shadow, nail polish and lipstick, to the glowing halos softly surround-ing the face, metallics are a sophisticated and wearable trend.

There are currently several contrasting me-tallic finishes dominating the scene, allowing for creations in variations of glitter, foil and high shine. Intertwining metallics with the right looks creates a perfectly harmonious composition.

ETHEREAL GLOWA major trend that pairs very well with me-

tallic accents is natural, ethereal beauty. The re-fined glow we saw during spring/summer 2014 is weaving into fall/winter 2014/15 by mixing

in a paler palette set off by pearly highlights, which puts emphasis on the organic beauty of each face.

To create this look, start by refining the skin using a creamy product, such as concealer.

Applying the product with fingers adds warmth, allowing the concealer to melt into the skin for a fresher looking appearance. Once all imperfections have been concealed, strategically place your desired metallic around the orbital bone, creating a high-light underscoring the brow and a reflection on top of the cheekbone.

For a subtle yet high shine metallic, use a refined glitter that reflects gold. When this glitter is buffed into the creamy concealer,


image | the magic of metallics

the edges softly diffuse, leaving a halo effect. The best brush to apply this type of glitter is one with a round ferrule and short, condensed duo fiber hair.

The wispy white bristles at the tip apply the glitter delicately, while the dark bristles closer to the ferrule will give it a polished, focused spotlight effect. Complete this elegant look by sparingly hitting the high planes of the face, such as the top of the Cupid’s bow, above the eyebrow, down the bridge of the nose and the center of the forehead. Since this look is minimal, grooming each feature is essential to compos-ing a sleek, modern appearance.

METALLIC REVERSE OMBRÉBuild on the foundation of radiance by in-

corporating the captivating red lip trend. The reverse ombré lip is a unique play on highlights and contours for the lip, creating a stained and bitten effect using crimsons in the center, with a gradation of color radiating into a deep bronze.

To begin, lips must be made void of their natural color by using concealer to create a to-tally blank canvas. This allows for the full effect of the metallic and chosen lip color.

For extra high shine, apply a thin layer of glitter over the concealer to boost the metallic luster. Start with an intense merlot in the very center of the lip using a small, stiff, flat brush. Use a brush with synthetic hair to deliver high impact color, which is needed in the very center, so as to create the illusion of being the deep-est part of the lip.

Switch to a brighter cranberry lip color as you blend toward the outer portion of the lip, finishing it off with a golden bronze.

Line the outer fraction of the lip with a brush that is similar in shape to that of the lips. This helps ensure that the lip line is symmetrical, precise and crisp.

To create even more depth on the inner pout, have your client purse her lips, and very lightly tap a black eye shadow or eye liner on almost the very inside of the lip. Use a soft and fluffy blending brush to sweep over the entire lip and establish an even progression of dark to light color.

For a softer version of the reverse ombré, choose one deep lip color and switch to a larger, less condensed fluffy brush to apply.

METALLIC WING LINEREach eye is distinctive and should be evalu-

ated before choosing how to put a spin on this classic look. The runways are featuring futur-istic shapes reminiscent of all eras, with more added edge. Copper, silver, bronze and gold colors give this trend endless possibility. The objective is to enhance the shape of the eye and push boundaries with technique. To create this slick silvery eyeliner, choose a highly metal-lic liquid liner. If added shine is needed, press a loose silver eye shadow over the top with an angle brush to reinforce a burst of brightness. This wing flips straight out, so using an angle brush works in short strokes from the outer corner of the eye, slightly tapering off toward the inner corner. Smooth the top of the line for consistency.

To create a teardrop shape on the inside crease, placement closer to the bridge of the nose is ideal. This helps frame the shape of the eye for a more cohesive look.

Start by drawing a small circle using a small point brush. From there, drag a curved tail fol-lowing the shape of the eye, giving it a flick of the wrist at the end. To further complement the eye shape, slightly contour the outer crease of the eye with a matte skin tone shade, and place a soft focus highlight under the arch of the brow. Leave the skin bare, with lips slightly glossed.

Sparkling metallics make a stunning state-ment this season and are here to stay. No matter what technique you use, these metallic trends will highlight your talent! n

Allyson Harold is the lead makeup artist and color trend specialist at Mineralogie. She is responsible for training retailers in sales and makeup techniques, as

well as predicting trends and developing new products. Harold’s work has been featured in film, print and fashion shows, with technical skills varying from bridal to fashion to body painting. Harold’s passion for the profession combined with her specialized training makes her an excellent instructor for clients and professionals alike.



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dirt awayOsmosis Colour’s Melt away Gelee is a paraben-free, soothing makeup remover gel that effortlessly rubs away rich pigments and waterproof formulas, says the company. Melt Away Gelee glides on and all makeup slides off. The makeup remover breaks down and melts away makeup and impurities without harming the skin thanks to its conditioning botanical extracts like aloe vera and jojoba oil—the gelee also features avocado oil and gogi berry extract.

800.762.6245cuccio.com

NaiL CaféCuccio Colour introduces Café Cuccio, its newest collection that features eight opaque, glitter and metallic shades that are inspired by freshly ground beans, rich robust espressos, cinnamon, sweet caramels and frothy creams, says the company. Cuccio Colours feature triple pigmentation technology for true coverage in one coat.

800.345.3448ladyburd.com

VibraNt huesJeweled shiny, moist lips never go out of style. Lady burd’s latest LL Cream Metallics combine beautiful, vibrant, long-lasting colors with moisturizing agents and glisten infused tones for unbelievably fresh, sexy, all-day lips, says the company.

wiNter readyArabesque by dr. Grandel introduces its new autumn/winter collection tango tango. With metallic shades for the eyes and seductive reds for the lips, the hues are sure to catch the mood of the season.

888.845.1191grandel.com

877.777.2305osmosisskincare.com



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*Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa/American Edition has all publishing rights reserved. Reproduction in part or in whole without written permission by the publisher is prohibited. *Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa/American Edition is protected through Trademark registration in the United States and in foreign countries where Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa/American Edition circulates. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for unsolicited manuscripts. Articles appearing in this journal may not previously have been published elsewhere either inside or out-side the United States of America. Exceptions to this rule will be made only by agreement in writing between the author and the editors. The editors reserve the right to edit letters and other submitted materials or omit letters that are considered outside the laws of libel, slander and good taste. Claims and other statements by written and/or advertisement do not neces-sarily reflect the opinions of the Publisher/Editor of Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa. Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa’s Publisher/Editor assume no responsibility for any and all claims. Publisher is not responsible for any mailing delays beyond our control. *Direct all advertising rate inquiries to: Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa/American Edition, Advertising Department, 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, Florida 33134.

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LNE & Spa - October 2014