LNE & Spa - June 2013

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extrasFrom the Editor 6Spa of the Month: Ojo Caliente Mineral Springs Resort

& Spa, Ojo Caliente, NM 10Recap: The International Congress of Esthetics & Spa, Miami Beach, FL 23Calendar of Events 124Advertisers’ Index 130

Page 4 • www.LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • June 2013

CONTENTSJUNE 2013 VOLUME 28 NUMBER 6

businessUSP 69 Developing Your

Career, Step 3: Place 70Turn To Tradition 74Positioning New Employees for Success! 79Customized Services for Every

Skin Type With Microdermabrasion 82Biz News 85

spaLiquid Trends 54 Creative Events at the Spa 56

Water World 59Taking the Waters 61Spa News 67

skinpH—The Fountain of Youth? 27 Multiple Ways to Hydrate the Skin 30

Aquaporins 36Summer Friendly Protocols 40Saving Your Clients’ Skin 44Skin News 48

Multiple Ways to Hydrate the Skin page 30

Taking the Waters the therapeutic value of hydrotherapy page 61

Turn to Tradition to define your brand

page 74

organic & wellnessWeighing in on Water Retention 89 Healing Waters and Harmonic Balance 90Disinfection 94Sonoran Energy to Heal

the Body, Mind and Soul 96Organic & Wellness News 100

imageA Makeup Department Retail Color Calendar 103 Polished, Pristine and Professional 104

Lash Perming 108Haute Hands 111Wet and Wild 114It is About Time! 118Image News 121

Haute Hands nail artistry trends page 111

Covercourtesy of DESSANGE Paris

Healing Waters and Harmonic Balance

page 90

Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa, American Edition, (USPS 003-687) (ISSN 1043-9641) is published monthly, 12 times per year and is sold exclusively by subscription. Publisher’s Name: Jean Jacques Legrand, M.D., 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, FL, 33134. Periodical postage paid at Miami, Florida, with additional mailing offices. Postmaster: Send address changes to: Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa, American Edition, 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, Florida 33134, United States Subscription: Annual Rate $45.00 Canada Subscription: $55.00 (American) 1st Class Postage Overseas Subscription: Two years for $140.00 (U.S.) Air Mail Postage



Summer greetings! Dive into LNE & Spa’s WET issue! The summer brings sizzling temperatures, and we need to offer our guests some relief and refreshment with therapeutic hydrotherapy services. Many spas shy away from elaborate aqua lounges or grottos due to space and budget constraints, but there are plenty of alterna-tives in H20 treatments.

For many, a traditional spa must have a water component. Historically, the healing properties of water have been experienced through miner-als or hot springs. Fast forward to modern times, however, and there are many ways to incorporate healing waters into spa facilities and services. The path to well-being today can be very elaborate. Hydrotherapy ser-vices can range from water circuits, saunas, Vichy showers, ice rooms and plunges to simple solutions such as adding a sea fog to a facial or a soaking basin for the feet prior to a massage. Your guests will enjoy the sensation and relaxation that is offered with these treatments. Get ready to be saturated with the historical view and therapeutic value of salus per aqua, or health through water!

Hydrotherapy has many benefits. In addition to improving the immune system and stimulating blood flow, it is used to treat many conditions, such as:

• acne• arthritis• colds• depression• headaches• stomachproblems• joint,muscleandnerveproblems• sleepdisorders• stress

If you do decide to embrace health through water at your facility,

it is sure to be extremely beneficial and valuable to both your business and your clients!

I encourage you to connect with LNE & Spa’s insightful contribut-ing writers. If you have additional questions, feel free to contact me at [email protected]. n

Have a beautiful and successful June!

—Denise R. Fuller, [email protected]

from the EDITOR

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editOr in Chief Denise R. Fuller [email protected]

Art direCtOr Sacha Smith [email protected]

AssistAnt editOr Amanda Winter [email protected]

direCtOr Of sAles Aché Fougere [email protected]

MArketing direCtOr Christèle de La Haye [email protected]

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ADVISORY BOARD LydiaSarfati•BenJohnson,M.D.•LakeLouise•NinaCurtis

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Contributors

Printed with 100% soy-based ink. This magazine is recyclable.

Please recycle where facilities exist.

Denise BaichGoldie BonnellRita CookJudith CulpNina CurtisTammy DoeringSusie EllisJenny FlanaganDenise R. Fuller

Millie HaynamBrenda K. HelpsTerry HermanKaren HodgesLori HutchinsonWendy LewisJennifer Linder, M.D.Ellie MalminDanae MarklandLisa Neal

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SPA OF THE MONTH

by Lisa Neal

HEALING WATERS OJO CALIENTE MINERAL SPRINGS RESORT & SPA, OJO CALIENTE, NM

HistorySteeped in myth and legend, the an-cient springs at Ojo Caliente Mineral Springs Resort & Spa in Ojo Caliente, NM have been a gathering place and source of healing for thousands of years. The use of the waters can be traced back to the earliest human migrations in the region when ancient peoples, the ancestors of today’s Native American Tewa tribes, built large pueblos and ter-raced gardens overlooking the springs. Heavily populated until the fifteenth century, the springs were home to thousands of people who left behind an abundance of diverse artifacts as a testament to the spring’s long standing significance within the larger region. Tradition tells us that often-warring tribesmen would set their weapons and differences aside to gather in peace at the springs and enjoy the benefits of the waters without conflict.

In the 1500s, the Spaniards discov-ered the springs and named them “Ojo Caliente,” but it was not until the nine-teenth century that westward expansion caused Ojo Caliente to emerge from its prehistoric origins. In 1868, Antonio Joseph built the first bathhouse, and Ojo Caliente Mineral Springs became one of the first natural health resorts in the country. It quickly became a hub of activity, offering healing waters, lodging, a post office and a general store. As a sanitarium, Ojo was known throughout the country as a place where thousands of people were cured each year through the healing effects of the waters and the earth. Three original buildings have

continues



been caringly restored, and are listed on the National Registry of Historic Places, including the Historic Bathhouse (1868); the Historic Hotel (1916); and the Adobe Round Barn (1924).

The famous and the infamous have enjoyed these legendary waters, and volumes of testimonials filled with mir-acle cures abound. Generations continue to make the pilgrimage to Ojo Caliente Mineral Springs to enjoy the unique combination of four different sulfur-free mineral waters: lithia, iron, soda and arsenic.

Multi-million dollar renovationThe legendary oasis, now celebrating its 145th anniversary as one of the old-est natural health resorts in the United States, is nearing the end of a multi-million dollar renovation. From 2005 to 2011, numerous enhancements were made to the property, including the addi-tion of a wine bar and lounge, a new spa entrance and a gift shop. New lodging enhancements include 23 suites and eight restored cottages. During this time, secluded private pools equipped

continues

spa of the month|ojo caliente mineral springs resort & spa

with kiva fireplaces were added, plus a spa lounge and private treatment rooms to ensure a fully customizable guest ex-perience. Functional upgrades included a new filtration system utilizing ozone and UV light to maintain the natural integrity of the healing waters, and as part of Ojo’s commitment to the envi-ronment, all facilities were converted to geothermal heating and cooling. Finally, the iconic kiva pool was added as an extra amenity and private soaking opportunity for the enjoyment of Ojo’s guests staying in the Cliffside, Pueblo or Plaza suites.

Ojo’s owners consider themselves stewards of the historic property, and have committed to preserving, honor-ing and enriching the unique character and essence of the iconic springs. The most recent improvements, scheduled for completion throughout 2013, include an expansion of the historic and main bathhouse, the creation of a new lithia pool and mud area, which will be open year-round, offering geothermally heated clay that is as soothing to the skin as it is healing. This is one of the spa’s most popular amenities.

Along with these esthetic and func-tional upgrades, Ojo has created sepa-rate “whisper zones” in order to main-tain the tranquil setting many guests enjoy. New landscaping will create a sound barrier around the iron and soda pools, cliffside pools, new lithia pool, private outdoor pools and the kiva pool (reserved for suite guests) to maintain

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There is no better time than now to reinvent your business and the way you serve your clients. The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa in Long Beach, CA is the inspirational conference for spa and skin care professionals with the most informative educational sessions that encompass topics relevant to every sector of the industry. It is also the event where you can meet and network with many other like-minded professionals, and the place where you can find an exhibitors’ floor flooded with the best companies in the business showcasing the most cutting-edge products and equipment!

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LONG BEACH, CALONG BEACH CONVENTION CENTER

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the relaxing, peaceful and quiet setting that this sacred place is known to pro-vide. For guests who are more inclined to be social, the large pool and new mud area will have a relaxed noise policy.

Lodging atmosphereOjo offers a variety of lodging accom-modations in an unpretentious and uncomplicated atmosphere. Options include everything from rooms in the historic hotel, cozy cottages, private suites and four bedroom private homes featuring full kitchens and fireplaces. Ojo also offers a private, peaceful set-

ting for RV parking and camping amidst cottonwood trees.

Ojo’s suites are decorated with tra-ditional New Mexican furnishings, and have access to the stunning kiva pool.

Healing mineral springs Ojo Caliente Mineral Resort & Spa is a legendary oasis where people come to naturally heal their body, mind and spirit. The sulfur-free, geothermal min-eral waters have flowed from a subter-ranean volcanic aquifer for thousands of years. Over 100,000 gallons per day come to the surface, revitalizing those

who soak in the healing waters. The 11 pools range in temperature from 80 to 109 degrees and include waters from the following springs:

The lithia spring: Located at the heart of the springs, the historic pump has been dispensing this unique water since the nineteenth century. Lithia is be-lieved to relieve depression and aid diges-tion. Restoration of this historic spring is currently underway to pump this sacred water to a new pool, with a scheduled completion date of the summer of 2013.

The iron spring: Native American legend tells that the giant rock in the iron pool guards the place where the ancient people of the mesa once received food and water during times of famine. The warm, iron-rich water bubbles up from the natural pebble floor, providing hot spots to discover in this mystical outdoor cliffside pool. Iron is considered benefi-cial for the blood and immune system.

The soda spring: The rock walls in the enclosed soda “steam” pool create a soft echo and a sense of calm and relaxation. Water from the soda spring is commonly used to relieve digestive problems.

The arsenic spring: Arsenic water is believed to offer relief from arthritis and stomach ulcers, and has been used to heal a variety of skin conditions. Water from the iron and arsenic springs is blended in various pools throughout the property.

hotel



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Healing spaAs the word “spa” is an acronym for the Latin phrase “salus per aquas,” mean-ing “health through water,” Ojo is the quintessential spa in the truest sense of the word. Ojo’s signature spa treat-ments offer a relaxing and restorative complement to the mineral waters, with offerings far beyond traditional thera-pies to include some of the country’s freshest and most unique spa servic-es. Ojo’s personal, holistic approach to healing and wellness is evident in their highly trained spa therapists—each one can deliver any of the spa menu’s options, as they are all highly proficient and trained in Ojo’s signature treatments. After the recommended soak in the therapeutic waters, guests receive treatments in one of 16 beau-tifully appointed rooms. State of the art eucalyptus-infused steam and sau-na rooms complete the restoration of mind, body and spirit.

Ojo’s specialty spa treatments in-clude skin care, massage and body therapies, featuring a private blend of wildcrafted herbs and oils.

Skin care therapyOjo’s unique approach to skin care is perfect for the alpine desert climate of New Mexico. Ayurveda, one of the old-est forms of health care in the world, is utilized. Incorporating the principles of nature to balance the body, mind, spirit and emotions, Ojo’s Ayurvedic skin principles include a line of products prepared from powerful plants, herbs, roots, essential oils and floral extracts with regenerative properties.

A signature Ojo treatment, the Youth-ful Glow Face Therapy utilizes massage, hot herbal towels and specialized skin care products to improve circulation, re-lax, hydrate and restore the skin and un-derlying muscles to promote a youthful glow. Skin cells are gently sloughed away,

resulting in a brighter and smoother ap-pearance. Pores, fine lines, wrinkles and slackening of the skin is greatly reduced, and skin’s natural radiance is restored.

Restorative body therapiesAn Ojo original is the Milagro Relaxation Wrap. After increasing the core body temperature in the geothermal waters, therapists cocoon guests first in a light cotton blanket, followed by heavy wool blankets to quickly extract toxins from the body. Calming music plays while guests relax in the soothing cocoon.

The Down-To-Earth Moor Mud treat-ment begins with a stimulating dry body-brush massage and an application of warm, mineral-rich moor mud. With over 380 natural vitamins, minerals and en-zymes, this unique natural mud gently soothes aches and pains. It also relieves fatigue and stress while softening, ton-

arsenic steam



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ing and nourishing the skin. The treat-ment includes a relaxing scalp massage and a bath in a private soaking tub to maximize the healing properties of the mud. Guests receiving this treatment enjoy the gift of the three brushes used in the session.

Therapeutic massageHailed as “a journey into yourself,” the Ancient Echoes Massage is based on East Indian principles, and explores a variety of massage and energy bal-

ancing techniques of the upper back, shoulders, arms, neck, scalp, face and ears. The treatment concludes with a luxurious foot massage. Along with pro-viding serious stress relief, the Ancient Echoes Massage soothes, comforts and balances one’s energy, supports hair growth, eases headaches, insomnia and eyestrain, and provides relief from aches and pains while promoting a deep sense of calm and tranquility.

Utilizing indigenous stones from the Rio Grande Riverbed, the Earth Keeper’s

Hot Stone Massage combines warm, oiled basalt stones with harmonizing massage strokes to soothe the muscles, balance energy and relieve tension. Large stones, steeped in Ojo’s mineral waters, are placed on special points of the body to help ground, calm and relax the mind and nervous system.

Artesian Wine Bar and RestaurantLocated in the hotel, the restaurant pro-vides a casual dining experience and charming atmosphere. The chef blends local flavors with global cuisine to cre-ate a delightful menu that ranges from seasonal Southwestern favorites to a variety of international dishes. Signature items and lighter fare—plus an extensive selection of local and imported wine and beer—are featured in the adjacent Wine Bar & Lounge.

The Artesian Restaurant offers sur-prisingly unique and diverse offerings. Opened in the fall of 2010, the Wine Bar & Lounge is located in what was the front desk of the original Ojo Caliente Hotel. Newspaper comics from the 1920s were found buried in the walls during the renovation and are now framed in the lounge. Some of the delicious gour-met offerings on the bar menu include homemade New Mexican pizzas with asadero cheese, piñon pesto and wild mushrooms. Libations include a fine selection of local and imported wine and beer. The wine bar is open seven days a week.

Current specialsTo celebrate their 145th anniversary (es-tablished in 1868), Ojo has created a special 145th Anniversary Package, with a focus on getting back to nature and re-connecting with the Earth and the four elements. In addition to a one night stay for two in a Plaza, Pueblo or Cliffside Suite, the package includes:• Water: A soak in Ojo’s

sacred mineral waters• Earth: Two 50-minute Earth

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Ojo Talistone, plus two Ojo signature Milagro Wraps• Air: Two passes to a yoga class of the guest’s choice• Fire: Mexican chocolate chile trufflesThe package starts at $449.

A destination for romance, Ojo’s Couples’ Romance Retreat begins at $649 and includes:• TwonightsfortwopeopleinanEnchantingPlaza,

Pueblo or Cliffside Suite• Accesstothenewprivatekivapool• TwoOjoSpatherapies(oneperperson)withachoiceof

Ojo Custom Face Therapy, Men’s Fitness Face Therapy or 50-minute Essence of Ojo Custom Massage

• Twoyogaclassesperguest• 50minutesinadelightfulprivateoutdoorpoolwitha

romantic kiva fireplace• Unlimitedaccesstoallmineralpools,steamandsauna• Abottleofwineorsparklingciderservedinsignature

Ojo glasses and chocolate truffles

Thousands of visitors are drawn to the healing and revitaliz-ing sulphur-free, geothermal mineral waters of Ojo Caliente Mineral Springs Resort & Spa every year. The fine dining, sea-sonal specials and themed packages round out the renowned experience offered by one of the oldest natural health resorts in the country. Ojo Caliente Mineral Springs Resort & Spa is a refuge that truly lives up to its acclaim. n

Lisa Neal, an account director and social media specialist, joined JLH Media in 2012. She specializes in technical writing, and has held vari-ous positions in public relations, fun-draising and marketing, including a press office position in the D.C. office of a New Mexico senator. She has provided grant research and consul-tation services for both profit and non-profit entities. Neal also moonlights as a fiction writer.


spa of the month

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June 2013 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 23

ON APRIL 7TH AND 8TH, SPA INDUSTRY professionals from across the globe flocked to the Miami Beach Convention Center for the 2013 International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, Miami Beach. The diverse crowd included attendees and companies traveling from around the world. Attendees represented places such as South America, Central America, Europe and the Caribbean. There were also many visitors from all over Florida, including cities from as far north as Gainesville and Tallahassee.

Overall attendance was up from 2012, fol-lowing a pattern of consistent growth the show experiences year after year.

Thirty new exhibitors made their first ap-pearance at the Miami Beach congress, includ-ing some that were launching in the United States for the first time. An upbeat, positive en-ergy prevailed on the exhibitors’ floor throughout the two-day congress.

The new Holistic & Wellness Village, spon-sored by Skin Fitness, ilike organic skin care and Stretch Zone was an extremely popular new feature. Attendees enjoyed facial treat-ments and took advantage of the opportunity to experience a new kind of strength, core and flexibility training.

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ATTENDEES TRAVELED FROM FAR AND WIDE TO ATTEND THE INTERNATIONAL CONGRESS OF ESTHETICS AND SPA, MIAMI BEACH

OUTSTANDING SEASON OPENER

left to right: PCA Skin booth; Denise R. Fuller, editor-in-chief of LNE & Spa and congress host; General Session crowd

busy show floor Christina Cosmeceuticals booth Clarisonic booth


Green Envee Organics booth Éminence Organic Skin Care booth

crowded floor Poo-Pourri boothmakeup boothA Natural Difference booth

Bamboo-Fusion booth

Diversity was a theme that extended beyond attendees; the varied lineup of educational offer-ings this year encompassed topics of relevance to professionals in every sector of the industry. Several new seminars that debuted at the show created the perfect complement to the estab-lished educational features.

On Sunday morning, sponsor PCA Skin® wel-comed attendees to Sunday’s General Session with a complimentary bottle of their Weightless Protection Broad Spectrum 45.

Conference host and LNE & Spa editor-in-chief Denise R. Fuller welcomed attendees and emceed the General Session.

Joseph Mandato kicked off the educational lineup with a lecture on how to “Discover Your Purpose!” Danae Markland continued with a lec-

ture on “Chemical Peeling: Essential to Overall Skin Health.” Linda Beach followed with a dem-onstration of a “Tropical Beach Treatment.” Tim Maurer finished Sunday’s General Session lineup with a demonstration on “Getting Better all the Time: Makeup for Your 40s, 50s, 60s and Beyond!”

On Sunday afternoon, Susanne Warfield dis-cussed “The Next Step in Your Career, From Salon to Working With a Physician” and “Emergency Medical Care for Your Salon & Spa” at the Medical Esthetics Seminar.

Alison Howland tackled the subject of “Sales Strategies: The Changing Landscape of Spa Retail” and “How to Build a Spa Dream Team: Identifying Outstanding Employees” at the Salon/Spa Bus-iness Management Seminar.

Dori Soukup addressed how to “Journey

“I am so pleased that I attended the

Miami show this year,” said Maureen Vipperman, director

of spa operations and development for

Ocean Properties Ltd. for the Northeast,

Florida and the Caribbean. “I have to say I was completely blown away with all that I discovered. I

am truly impressed.”

“The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, Miami Beach was a fantastic event,” said Patrick McDirmit, vice president of operations for Marilyn Monroe Spas. “I was able to connect with a good number of colleagues as well as new vendors and hear and eventually meet some very informative speakers. This was my first International Congress of Esthetics

and Spa show, and we will be looking forward to attending regularly.”


GrandeLASH-MD booth

busy exhibition floor

the international congress of esthetics and spa

Into Profits With Aesthetics and Wellness Pro-grams,” and how to “Say Goodbye to the à la Carte Mentality and Hello to Innovative Multi Visit Programs!” at the all new Medical Facilities, Aesthetic and Wellness Center Track.

Denise R. Fuller moderated a panel discus-sion with Diane Buccola, Kaffee Keldie and Mary Turner for the National Aesthetics Spa Network. Attendees met and mingled with other spa pro-fessionals and leaders in the industry to discuss “Solutions to a Successful Career.”

On Monday, attendees of the General Ses-sion received another product from show sponsor Osmosis Skincare. Each attendee was given a bot-tle of their Shade Sunscreen Moisturizer SPF 30.

Nathalie Cecilia began the educational line-up at Monday’s General Session with a demon-stration of “Bamboo-Fusion®: Warm Bamboo Massage.” Jimm Harrison followed with a lec-ture on “The Truth About Essential Oils’ Safety and Quality.” Nina Curtis then demonstrated the “AromaChroma Tone Facial Treatment.” Stephanie Laynes finished Monday’s General Session with a lecture and demonstration on “Waxing Mishaps and How to Avoid Them.”

The Cutting Edge Salon/Spa Business Seminar on Monday afternoon began with a discussion

on “How to Get Financing or a Loan From Your Bank” by Dale Turner. Tammy Finch followed with a talk on “Social Media as a Sales Tool: What You Really Need to Know.” Leon Alexander, Ph.D. shared insight into “How Customers Think: A Window Into the Consumer’s Mind.”

Lisa Travis discussed “Launching a Medical Spa Business” and “Marketing Your Medical Spa” at the Medical Spa Business Seminar.

The all new Image Seminar began with a lecture by Leslie Christin on “Creating a Makeup Boutique in Your Spa: The Four Steps to Successful Profits.” Millie Haynam followed with a discussion on how to “Build Your ‘Celebrity’ Status as a Nail Technician,” and Ellie Malmin explained how to create “Luscious Lashes for Your Clients.”

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“The 2013 Miami Congress for such an enlightenment. I got the chance to be exposed to new techniques, new products,” said Jean-Christophe Cointre of Epilation Beauté of the French West Indies. “Loved the energy on the floor and the great networking.”

Elixir of Life booth

Mobilia MD BeauLife workshop Holistic & Wellness Village

demo at DermaSwiss booth

General Session stage


Mark A. McKenney addressed the top-ic of “New Age Marketing and Media” at the Aesthetics International Association.

Thank you to all of our valued attendees, vendors and sponsors for helping us create an event that defines our industry. We look for-ward to seeing you again in Miami Beach on April 6-7, 2014! n

Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa and Derma scope magazines cosponsor four International Congress

of Esthetics and Spa educational conferences/trade shows annually in Miami Beach, FL, Dallas, TX, Long Beach, CA and Philadelphia, PA. Dates for remaining 2013 conferences: Long Beach, CA, September 29-30; Philadelphia, PA, October 27-28. Dates for 2014 conferences: Miami Beach, FL, April 6-7; Dallas, TX, May 4-5; Long Beach, CA, September 7-8; Philadelphia, PA, October 19-20.

Amanda Winter is the assistant editor at Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa. Email her at [email protected].

the international congress of esthetics and spa

TM

FOLLOW THE INTERNATIONAL CONGRESS OF ESTHETICS AND SPA ON:

“I was very impressed with the number of participants, the fabulous exhibits and the comprehensive lecture schedule,”

said Randy B. Miller, M.D. “I highly recommend the congress to health care professionals, spa owners and anyone who

works in the industry. It is a fantastic resource for all!”

HydraFacial MD/Edge Systems Domina Skin Care booth HydroPeptide booth

South Seas boothOsmosis Pür Medical Skincare boothMesoestetic boothEvalash booth

Repêchage booth

“This year’s show was outstanding,” says Kim Knapp, the owner of Skin Apeel in Boca Raton, FL. “I was

engaged for two solid days, from the education to the exhibitors ... this was one of the most

organized and comprehensive events to date.”

and body, and must maintain a specific geometric shape in order to function.

As a person ages, the pH of their skin changes. At puberty, the body be-gins to produce more hair, activating sebaceous glands and altering the skin’s

pH. The hormones that control sweat also become active, and the whole sur-face of a teenager’s skin transforms from that of a child to a young adult. This is the body’s way of increasing its defense sys-tem against injury from the environment.

In one’s late teens to early 20s, the acid mantle is well developed, and pro-vides good protection against potential-ly harmful external environmental fac-tors. The skin usually looks healthy and heals from injuries quickly at this age.

With increasing age, however, the skin’s pH becomes more neutral and susceptible to bacterial growth. This re-duced acidity kills fewer bacteria than before, leaving the skin susceptible to bacterial growth and infections. As a

THE PH OF THE SKIN IS THE “thermostat” that regulates the overall health and beauty of the skin, and the effectiveness of cosmeceutical products used on the skin. While the meaning of pH is generally misunderstood and sel-dom talked about, it does play a vital role in regulating the skin’s aging process, and should be considered for every skin care regimen.

Having the perfect balance between the body’s internal pH and the skin’s ex-ternal pH is key for normal cell function and optimal health of the skin and body. Because pH protects the skin from envi-

ronmental stressors such as sun damage, smoking and pollutants, accelerated aging of the body and skin can occur when it’s out of balance. This imbalance can result in poor skin and muscle tone, sagging skin, poor internal organ func-tion, rough skin texture and large pores.

A person’s pH can be altered minute-by-minute through daily activities such as sleep and exercise, as well as environ-mental factors such as pollutants, drinking water, stress and using skin care products that are not pH balanced. In order for skin cells to function properly, the body’s pH should be between 7.35 and 7.45, and 4.5 +/- 1.0 for the skin. The unique pro-teins in the skin and body are affected by the tiniest pH changes of the skin

result, the skin weakens and begins de-veloping problems, such as loss of firm-ness and elasticity, wrinkles, dryness and longer healing time.

The simple act of using ordinary soap to clean the face increases the pH of the skin, removes its protective acid mantle layer and kills the “good” bacteria re-sponsible for maintaining the acidic pH of the skin. Therefore, using pH-adjusted skin care products is recommended for a youthful, healthy appearance. Skin care products that are pH balanced have in-creased L-ascorbic acid and retinol that has been scientifically proven to improve skin texture, reduce brown spots and decrease the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

So look no further, the Fountain of Youth for your clients may already be in your pH-balanced skin care products. n

Lawrence Samuels, M.D., is an ac-credited dermatologist who has been transforming the lives of patients through his passion and skills for over 30 years. Dr. Samuels is the chief of dermatol-ogy at St. Luke’s Hospital in St. Louis, MO. In addition to seeing patients on a daily basis, he teaches at Washington University Medical School. Dr. Samuels developed Rx Systems PF®, a scientifi-cally advanced, pH-balanced skin and hair care product line.


by Lawrence Samuels, M.D.

skin

Skin care products that are pH balanced have increased L-ascorbic acid and retinol that has

been scientifically proven to improve skin texture, reduce brown spots and decrease the

appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

pH-the fountain of youth?

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PRESENTED BY

THE MOST EXQUISITE SKIN CARE &SPA EVENT IN THE INDUSTRY

The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, Philadelphia is about working together and sharing our knowledge, helping one another to reach new levels of success. The two-day event offers the unique opportunity to attend cutting-edge career-boosting lectures and demonstrations, interact with our platform of associations, mingle with your peers at networking events and walk an exhibit floor flooded with hundreds of the best new and well established companies showcasing the latest trends and products!

Philadelphia, paPENNSYLVANIA CONVENTION CENTER

OCT 27 & 28, 2013

$60

$40


• Medical Facilities, Aesthetic and Wellness Center Track





• Image Seminar










NEW

NEW

NEW






PRESENTED BY

THE MOST EXQUISITE SKIN CARE &SPA EVENT IN THE INDUSTRY

The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, Philadelphia is about working together and sharing our knowledge, helping one another to reach new levels of success. The two-day event offers the unique opportunity to attend cutting-edge career-boosting lectures and demonstrations, interact with our platform of associations, mingle with your peers at networking events and walk an exhibit floor flooded with hundreds of the best new and well established companies showcasing the latest trends and products!

Philadelphia, paPENNSYLVANIA CONVENTION CENTER

OCT 27 & 28, 2013

$60

$40


• Medical Facilities, Aesthetic and Wellness Center Track





• Image Seminar










NEW

NEW

NEW






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skin

BY JENNIFER LINDER, M.D.

PROPER HYDRATION OF THE SKIN IS OFTEN A CON-versation reserved for the cold and dry months of winter. Attention to skin moisture levels, however, is an essential topic of discussion year-round when seeking to achieve clear, glowing skin. For many reasons, hydrating the skin properly is equally important during the summer. By understanding the elements that influence hydration, as well as the interplay between water and oils, it is possible to maintain balanced, hydrated skin regardless of the season.

Elements that reduce hydration levelsIn the intense heat of the summer, moisture is released from the skin at a high rate in order to cool the body internally. This moisture loss becomes even more pronounced if one regu-larly engages in sports or high impact exercise. Additionally, there is a tendency to shower more frequently and wash the face more often to remove sweat and oil buildup. If the mois-ture is not replaced (both internally and externally), the skin may appear dull over time, become susceptible to impaired barrier function or get stuck in a cycle of oil overproduction, leading to breakouts.

During the summer months, increased UV exposure can also lead to a reduction in skin hydration. Dry heat (evapora-tion) and humidity (increased sweating) deplete cutaneous moisture. While ultraviolet B (UVB) rays are at their strongest

during the summer, ultraviolet A (UVA) rays remain constant throughout the year, making sun avoidance and protection a must during every season. During the summer months, people are typically outside more often for extended periods of time, therefore increasing direct and prolonged exposure to UV radiation that can set in motion a number of reactions that are harmful to the skin. The higher output of UVB rays increases free radical production that damages the cellular proteins and fats that make up and support the layers of the skin. Overexposure to UV rays can result in burning, cracking and peeling, which destabilizes the skin’s delicate moisture retention mechanisms, often causing permanent damage to the affected areas. To combat this, it is important to practice sun avoidance between the hours of 10 a.m. and 4 p.m., wear wide-brimmed hats and protective clothing, and use a broad spectrum sunscreen with an SPF of at least 30 every day, making sure to reapply it every two hours.

Water versus oil hydrationMany believe that moisturizing the skin becomes less im-portant during the hotter and typically more humid months of the summer. This is not the case, however; regardless of the season, all skin types need moisture. Both oil and water serve important roles in cellular regeneration and moisture

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MULTIPLE WAYS TO

hydrate the skin


skin|multiple ways to hydrate the skin

retention, and maintaining a balance between the two—as well as understanding the differ-ences between them—is necessary to achieve clear, hydrated and healthy skin.

WaterThe most important tasks of water in relation to skin hydration occur internally. The skin is the body’s largest organ, which requires adequate water intake to not only maintain moisture and elasticity, but to flush out harmful elements, re-generate and expel dead skin cells as well. The uppermost layer of the skin is known as the stratum corneum (SC). This protective layer is made up in part of dead skin cells, which act as a barrier to the elements while keeping the much needed moisture inside. Lack of proper hydration reduces the ability of the SC to turn over new cells, allowing old, lifeless skin cells to become mixed with perspiration and bacteria; the result in most cases is cellular inflammation, acne and dull skin.

Additionally, although the skin may appear to be hydrated and moist in the summer due to the production of sweat, it can actually be dehydrated from excessive water loss caused

by perspiration. If water consumption is inad-equate, the skin is the first organ water is taken from to increase the supply to critical organs and bodily systems. Also, the increased amounts of salt and uric acid deposited on the skin from sweat can be damaging if it is not gently and consistently removed. Insufficient water moisture in the skin also leads to an unwelcome increase in sebum production. This, in combination with increased sweat, is a recipe for breakouts. To maintain sufficient moisture, it is critical to in-crease water intake during the summer, as well as maintain regular moisturizer use. For those who are prone to oily skin, choose a product that primarily focuses on increasing water moisture without heavy oils.

Oil We have largely been trained to shy away from using oil on the skin for fear of clogged pores and acne. Oil, however, is an essential compo-nent of healthy skin, and using the right oils—even during the summer—can help maintain homeostasis and flexibility within the skin.

It is crucial to ensure that patients under-stand the importance of maintaining cutane-ous oil balance. In most cases, the oil glands naturally produce enough oil to lubricate the skin without causing breakouts; however, this process is easily disturbed. Scrubbing the face excessively or using harsh cleansers and exfo-liators will strip the skin below its necessary oil threshold. In response to this imbalance, the skin will actually produce more oil to compensate for the loss. However, the patient often views this as an “oily skin problem,” and perpetually seeks to strip the oil away. Thus, the production of oils is continuously increased, and the skin seems to be unmanageable. Interestingly, stud-ies have indicated that acneic skin is deficient in essential fatty acids (EFAs), which is partly responsible for the overproduction of sebum. By supplementing acneic skin with beneficial oils that are high in EFAs, sebum production can be kept in balance.

Humectants and occlusivesA humectant is a substance that attracts water, and can often hold many times its own weight in moisture within the skin. A humectant can pull water from the air, but in topical skin care the humectants are typically drawing moisture up from the dermis into the epidermis.

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ALTHOUGH THE SKIN MAY APPEAR TO BE HYDRATED AND MOIST IN THE SUMMER DUE

TO THE PRODUCTION OF SWEAT, IT CAN ACTUALLY BE DEHYDRATED DUE TO EXCESSIVE

WATER LOSS FROM PERSPIRATION.

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occlude, while a product for breakout-prone skin may instead employ niacinamide or jojoba oil to perform the same function, but without the emollience.

Educating patientsWith the overwhelming quantity of media out-lets and product companies touting claims and potentially incorrect and unvalidated science, it is even more important that we take the time to properly educate our patients, even on the most basic skin care principles such as hydra-tion. The following are some tips to share with your patients to help them maintain healthy, hydrated skin year-round:

• Ensurethatpatientsarenot over-washing, using harsh cleansers or aggressive exfoliants, all of which can cause the skin to overcompensate by producing excess sebum.

• Suggestdailycareproductsthat contain a balance of humectants and occlusives to effectively attract and hold moisture within the skin.

• Avoidcomedogenicoils,suchaspetroleumand lanolin, which can lead to blocked follicles, sensitivities and possible breakouts.

• Explaintoyourbreakout-pronepatientsthe fact that oils that contain essential fatty acids are actually beneficial to their condition; oil-free is not always best.

• Suggestgentleexfoliationasneededtoremove dead skin cells and keep follicles free from debris.

• Encourageyourpatientsto stay adequately hydrated. n

Jennifer Linder, M.D., is a board-certified der-matologist, a fellowship-trained Mohs surgeon and one of the foremost U.S. experts in the use of the cosmetic filler Sculptra. A biomedical engineer and chemist, Dr. Linder holds a clinical faculty position in the department of dermatology at the University of California, San Francisco. Dr. Linder is chief scientist for PCA Skin.

skin|multiple ways to hydrate the skin

Common humectants include glycerin and honey, in addition to higher attraction humec-tants such as sorbitol, lactic acid, sodium PCA and urea. Hyaluronic acid is a particularly power-ful humectant, in that it can attract and hold up to 1,000 times its weight in water. The strategic use of humectants can have profound effects on the condition of your patients’ skin.

Oil is classified as an “occlusive,” meaning that it acts to lock moisture into the skin. Oils that are beneficial to the skin may be used after bathing to lock in the moisture from the water while the pores are still open. Additionally, moisturizing products that contain light oils, such as sweet almond oil or jojoba oil (with compositions very similar to human sebum), are a good choice dur-ing the summer months, as they hold moisture within the skin without creating a greasy feel or clogging pores.

Ideally, a moisturizer should contain both humectants to draw moisture into the skin and occlusive ingredients that seal the necessary moisture within the skin. These principles ap-ply to products designed for oily and breakout-prone skin, as well as those with dry skin. It is typically the occlusive agent that varies. For dry skin, a product might use shea butter to

FOR DRY SKIN, A PRODUCT MIGHT USE SHEA BUTTER TO OCCLUDE, WHILE A PRODUCT

FOR BREAKOUT-PRONE SKIN MAY INSTEAD EMPLOY NIACINAMIDE OR JOJOBA OIL.

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The PCA SKIN® Therapeutic Mask Series provides an option for treating every skin type and condition.

TREATMENT ENHANCEMENTS

the mask: professionalized

Therapeutic masks are a perfect choice for treatment during the summer, allowing patients to enjoy the outdoors with little to no downtime.

Smooth the skin, even skin tone and reduce the appearance of pores with a therapeutic mask.

THE MASKS

For more information about these exciting new treatment options, call us at 877.PCA.SKIN [722.7546] or visit us at pcaskin.com.



HOW IS SKIN’S LEVEL OF HYDRA-

tion measured? This is a commonly asked question by skin care profession-als and consumers alike. To answer it, many factors must be taken into ac-count, including dietary habits, water intake and lifestyle choices. Smoking, excessive alcohol consumption, poor diet and unprotected sun exposure all

affect not only the outward appearance of the skin, but also its ability to main-tain proper hydration levels. We know the skin is a delicate balance of both water and oil soluble materials, modu-lated through processes like transepi-dermal water loss (TEWL), sebaceous secretions, the production of glycosami-noglycans in the dermis and ceramides by the keratinocytes. In fact, much of the focus of professional skin care revolves around this principle and maintaining these systems. One organelle in particu-lar, the aquaporin, has become the focus of much attention in recent years for its role in maintaining this balance.

Aquaporins are protein channels that facilitate the transport of water across cell membranes, allowing water in and

out of the cell. Other small molecules including carbon dioxide, nitric oxide, oxygen and ammonia gas are capable of penetrating through these channels. They were discovered, more by acci-dent than intent, by Peter Age of Johns Hopkins University in 1992. In 2003 he was awarded the Nobel Prize in chem-istry for this discovery. Recent work has

shown aquaporins to be essential for the health of the body in general, but for maintenance of skin health in particu-lar. Since the body is 70 percent water, regulation of the water content becomes a critical factor in the health of an indi-vidual. Continued research on the im-portance of aquaporins has shown that their expression is strongly affected by age, chronic sun exposure and abnormal osmotic equilibrium in the epidermis. There are at least 13 different types of aquaporins that can be found function-ing within the cells of the brain, heart, kidneys, skin and other organs. There are six different aquaporins found in the skin, which are expressed in differ-ent skin cells. They are designated by the numbers AQP-1, 3, 5, 7, 9 and 10.

In the keratinocytes, the most abundant cells in the skin, types 3 and 10, are most prevalent. These two types have been designated as aquaglyceroporins, since they also allow for the passage of glycerin into and out of the cell. One of the additional functions of AQP-3 is to transport glycerol to help maintain the moisture level of the epidermis. It is this property that has led them to be designated as intrinsic hydrators. An in-teresting finding was that the absence of AQP-3 was associated with eczema, intercellular edema in the epidermis and sebaceous hyperplasia. Defects in the AQP-3 aquaporin can result in dry skin and other skin abnormalities. In psoriasis, there is decreased aquapo-rin expression in both the early and late stages of the disease. As a result, the water loss is increased with the decrease in skin hydration. Epidermal hydration seems to be one of the main functions of the aquaporins. Medical and cosmetic scientists are looking to take advantage of this new finding by developing agents that are capable of increasing the num-ber of aquaporins in the skin. Recent research has shown that the topical use of caffeine has the ability to increase the expression of AQP-3.

Demonstrating a further extension of peptide use in skin care, acetyl hexa-peptide-37 (Diffuporine™) has been clinically shown to increase AQP-3 ex-

by Michael Pugliese and Peter T. Pugliese, M.D.

channels that facilitate hydration to the cell

continues

The absence of AQP-3 was associated with eczema, intercellular edema in the epidermis and sebaceous hyperplasia.

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pression, which subsequently enhanced skin hydration by 131 percent. Angico (Piptadenia colubrina) extract has been shown to increase the expression of AQP-3, 9 and 10.

Within the foreseeable future, skin care practitioners will have newer meth-ods of measurements for skin hydration in their treatment rooms. For a diagnostic evaluation of a client’s needs, estheticians are encouraged to rely on their most valu-

able assessment tools—their hands, eyes and ears—looking at the skin, feeling its texture and listening to the client. n

ReferencesXie H, et al. Protective Role of AQP-3 in UVA-induced NHSF’s apoptosis via Bc12 up-regulation. ARCH Dermatol Res. 2013 Mar 5 (Epub ahead of print).

Draelos Z. Aquaporins: An introduc-tion to a key factor in the mechanism of

skin hydration. J Clin Dermatol. 2012 Jul;5(7):53-6.

Benga G. The first discovered water channel protein, later called aquaporin 1: molecular characteristics, functions and medical implications. Mol Aspects Med. 2012 Oct-Dec; 33(5-6):518-34.doi:10.1016/j.mam.2012.06.001. Epub 2012 Jun 15.

Sugimoto T. Impaired Aquaporin 3 Expression in Reepithelialization of Cutaneous Wound Healing in the Diabetic Rat. Biol Res Nurs. 2012 Apr 23 (Epub ahead of print).

Hara-Chikuma M. Aquaporin-3 func-tions as a glycerol transporter in mam-malian skin. Biol Cell. 2005 Jul; 97 (7): 479-86.

Michael Q. Pugliese is the CEO of Cir-cadia by Dr. Pugliese and the Circadia Institute of Advanced Esthetics. Pug liese

and his grand-father, Peter T. Pugliese, M.D., hold in-depth classes on a vari-ety of subjects, in-cluding cosmetic chemistry and his-

tology of the skin. Pugliese is a licensed es-thetician in the state of Pennsylvania, and holds a degree in business management and marketing from Kutztown University.

Peter T. Pugliese, M.D., is a family phy-sician. Through his intensive research

into skin struc-ture and func-tion over the last three decades, he has become the most published skin physiolo-gist in the world.

Dr. Pugliese is the author of Advanced Professional Skin Care, Medical Edition, the global educational standard for stu-dents, educators, practitioners and manu-facturers in the esthetics field. For more information, contact Michael Pugliese at [email protected].


skin|aquaporins



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BY DANAE MARKLAND

SUMMER IS TYPICALLY A TIME FOR VACA-tion and play, and with increased exposure to the sun and the environment, maintaining pro-fessional skin care and exfoliation habits are an important part of every patient’s healthy skin routine. However, during the summer it is criti-cal to understand which treatments are com-patible with the rising temperatures, as well as how to educate patients and encourage them to remain compliant with their healthy skin rou-tines throughout the season.

Safe summer exfoliation One may think that all exfoliation techniques are applicable year-round, but that is not neces-sarily the case. During the summer months, it is important to evaluate products and treatment techniques to ensure that they are compatible with the rising temperatures outside. For exam-ple, while chemical peels are extremely effective in providing gentle exfoliation if administered correctly, the patient is required to remain cool for 48 hours following a peel. There are multiple reasons for this. If an AHA chemical peel is per-formed, the desmosomal bonds between the keratinocytes are dissolved. This allows the cells to exfoliate easily as they turn over. If a patient sweats excessively in the days immediately fol-lowing this peel, there is the potential for the moisture to be trapped within the imminently shedding cells, creating small water blisters. These usually appear at the hairline, upper lip and other areas of perspiration. Additionally, it is wise to avoid inflammation to minimize the risk of post-inflammatory hyperpigmenta-tion (PIH), regardless of the types of acid used. Unless the patient is willing to remain indoors for this period of time, staying cool can be dif-ficult to accomplish in the hot summer months.

An excellent alternative to chemical peels in the summer is the use of proteolytic enzyme masks for treatment. Not only are masks easily removable and require no downtime, they offer some specific benefits for hotter times of the year. A papaya mask, for instance, contains the enzyme papain that primarily acts as a keratolytic agent by digesting the keratin protein built up on the surface of the skin without causing excessive heat or stimulation. These types of enzyme masks provide important benefits without causing the excessive heat or inflammation that should be avoided during the summer. Superficial, blended chemical peels are not contraindicated at this time of year, but the clinician must ensure that the patient will observe their recommendation to avoid heat for 48 hours.

Blended chemical peels do have myriad benefits; they gently remove dead cells on the skin’s surface, effectively lighten areas of hy-perpigmentation and minimize acne breakouts. Additionally, the application of a chemical peel reduces surface impaction and creates spaces between the keratinocytes to allow active ingre-dients to penetrate more effectively. Chemical peeling ingredients (acids and enzymes) are able to dissolve impacted surface skin cells, improving barrier function and reducing transepidermal water loss (TEWL).

Encouraging patient complianceIt is important when working with patients to not only administer their treatments, but to be an educational resource to them as well. Knowledge is power. Take the extra time to speak with pa-tients about their skin condition(s), explain why you are choosing specific treatments, and the outcome they should expect. Also, treat patients

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PROTOCOLSAN EXCELLENT ALTERNATIVE TO CHEMICAL PEELS IN THE SUMMER IS THE USE OF PROTEOLYTIC ENZYME MASKS FOR TREATMENT.

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summer friendly


as partners, and educate them on the best way to maximize treatment results between appointments. Make sure they un-derstand the crucial role they have in maintaining their skin, and how they can ensure the best long-term esthetic results through their own diligence.

One important area where patients can play an active role is the prevention and reoccurrence of hyperpigmentation dur-ing the warmer months. Both ultraviolet (UV) radiation and heat from the sun can cause discoloration in the skin of those prone to hyperpigmentation. For patients who have worked throughout the year to even their skin tone, it is especially important to take extra precautions to protect the skin in the summer. The best way to do so is to use a broad spectrum sun-screen with an SPF of at least 30 every day. For optimal results, the sunscreen should be applied at least 20 minutes prior to going outdoors, and reapplied every two hours while outside. Recommend that patients wear hats, sunglasses and seek shade whenever possible, as these are also excellent ways to prevent the recurrence of hyperpigmentation.

Another way to ensure patient compliance is to make sure that they have sufficient amounts of daily care product and SPF while away on their summer vacations. It is a good idea to routinely ask patients whether they are planning to travel. Showing interest and care builds the trust relationship between patient and clinician, and allows them ample time to purchase additional product to ensure that their treatment continues uninterrupted. This not only benefits the patient, but also pre-serves the hard work done by the clinician.

Treatment options for the summer heatIn addition to exfoliation treatments, there are many topical options available to skin professionals to bring about healthy skin in patients, despite the challenges of the summer heat. Treatments that are less aggressive, do not require downtime or heat-avoidance periods and help to minimize the effects of sun exposure will be much appreciated by patients. In addition to daily use of broad spectrum sun protection with an SPF of 30 or higher, the following treatments are both popular and effective during the summer season:

• Applytopicalproductscontainingmultiplemelanogenesis inhibitors such as kojic acid, phenylethyl resorcinol, licorice and alpha-arbutin to suppress UV-induced hyperpigmentation and help maintain results achieved during cooler months.

• Addaretinoidboostertotheendofanysummer-friendly treatment protocol to inhibit melanogenesis and increase cellular turnover, moisture content and collagen production—all of which are impacted by hot weather.

• Recommendclay-basedmasksforat-homeusetogently,yet thoroughly detoxify the skin and clear pores of impurities. Clay masks help to remove excess cell debris, sebum and environmental impurities accumulated from the typical extended outdoor exposure in the summer.

• Performantioxidanttreatmentsandhavepatients boost topical antioxidant use at home to reduce free radical damage incurred due to UV exposure and increased environmental pollutants such as car emissions and cooling units.

Summer can be a challenging time for maintaining healthy skin. However, with proper attention to the utilization of sum-mer-friendly treatments and patient education, patients can maintain the results they earned during the cooler months while enjoying the summer with healthy, protected skin. n

Danae Markland is a licensed es-thetician and certified medical la-ser technician who has specialized in many aspects of the industry, in-cluding corrective esthetics, laser treatments and other therapeutic devices. As director of education for PCA SKIN®, Markland oversees the development of all educational material, including tradeshow workshops and CME course curricula, scientific articles and consumer-directed educa-tional pieces. As an educator, Markland shares her passion for skin health with fellow estheticians and medical profes-sionals at presentations all over the world.

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TREATMENTS THAT ARE LESS AGGRESSIVE, DO NOT REQUIRE DOWNTIME OR HEAT-

AVOIDANCE PERIODS AND HELP TO MINIMIZE THE EFFECTS OF SUN EXPOSURE WILL BE MUCH APPRECIATED BY PATIENTS.

skin|summer friendly protocols

IS0213 238 Les Vouvelles_April Ad.indd 1 2/27/13 11:39 AM



BY WENDY LEWIS

SAVINGTHE BEST TREATMENT FOR SKIN CANCER IS EARLY DETECTION

ACCORDING TO THE SKIN CANCER Foundation, one in five Americans will develop skin cancer in the course of their lifetime, making it the most com-mon form of cancer. It is also the most curable type of cancer, but only when diagnosed and treated early. When allowed to progress, skin cancer can result in disfigurement and even death.

Trade up on SPFSince about 90 percent of non-melanoma skin cancers are associated with exposure to UV radiation from the sun, choosing the right SPF level sunscreen and using enough for good coverage is critical. The general rule is to apply the equivalent of two tablespoons to the exposed skin of the face and body, or about a nickel-sized drop to cover the entire face.

It seems as though every spring, along with the first sign of budding cro-cuses, a slew of new sunscreen ingredi-ents and formulations comes along. This year, the Public Access to Sunscreens (PASS) Coalition launched a campaign to fight the growing skin cancer epi-demic in the U.S. by cutting through the confusion and mixed messages sur-rounding sunscreen use, and ensure

that Americans have access to the latest effective ingredients. The most recent FDA rulings that went into effect on June 18, 2012 banned the terms “sunblock,” “sweatproof” and “waterproof” from appearing on sunscreen labels. Instead, sunscreens may now claim to be “water-resistant” if they specify protection for either 40 or 80 minutes of swimming or

sweating, based on standard testing. Manufacturers were also prohibited from claiming that their sunscreen products provide sun protection immediately, or for more than two hours, without submit-ting test results to prove this. Sunscreen products that are not broad spectrum, or have an SPF between 2 and 14, must display this warning: “Skin cancer/skin aging alert: Spending time in the sun increases your risk of skin cancer and early skin aging. This product has only been shown to help prevent sunburn, not skin cancer or early skin aging.”

Among the new trends in the sun-screen category are long wearing, wa-ter-resistant products with appealing textures and high SPF, easy-to-use for-mulas without the chalky, skin whiten-ing issues of physical blockers like zinc continues

“ESTHETICIANS, MASSAGE THERAPISTS AND SKIN CARE PROFESSIONALS ARE OFTEN THE FIRST LINE OF EARLY DETECTION BECAUSE THEY KNOW THEIR CUSTOMERS’ HISTORY.”

oxide and titanium dioxide. Another trend in the market are multi-tasking products that offer both protection and primer qualities. Look for a light-weight moisturizing lotion in a tube with broad-spectrum protection that gets absorbed quickly and acts as a primer under makeup. It contains antioxidants, mushroom extracts, algae and cham-omile extracts for anti-inflammatory benefits. Dermatologist Zein Obagi, M.D., recommends a natural mineral sunscreen formula with a daily multi-defense system and broad-spectrum UVA/UVB protection that can be used post procedure and for sensitive skin. Enriched with fractionated melanin and potent antioxidants, it is an elegant formula with a silky texture, perfect to wear under foundation.

Novel diagnostics“If you can spot it you can stop it.” This phrase has been coined by the Skin Cancer Foundation to remind consumers that early detection is key. Diagnostics have come a long way in turning that goal into a reality. Spa professionals should consistently remind their guests to get screened for melanoma on an annual basis.

Developed in New Zealand, Mole-Safe has been in the U.S. for five years, and currently has nine locations in hos-pitals and medical centers.

“MoleSafe is to skin what mam-mography is to breasts,” says Richard Bezozo, M.D., the president of MoleSafe.

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may be followed closely over time and data stored in the patient’s chart,” says Coyle S. Connolly, D.O., a dermatolo-gist in Linwood, NJ.

Self examsBeverly Hills dermatologist Monika Kiripolsky, M.D. cautions against ignor-ing the early signs of skin cancer, and recommends that everyone examine their skin from head-to-toe on a monthly basis. “What people may think is just a sore that won’t go away or a mole that has grown bigger or darker may be an early form of skin cancer,” she warns. “The only way to find out is to visit a dermatologist for a skin cancer screen-ing. Some forms of skin cancer can look like sunspots or moles. It is always best to get checked before having any skin treatments, including laser treatments.”

To assist with self exams, the UM-SkinCheck free mobile application can be downloaded from iTunes to an iPhone or iPad to allow users to com-plete and store a full body photograph-ic library, track moles/lesions, download educational videos and even locate a skin cancer specialist.

“Estheticians, massage therapists and skin care professionals are often the first line of early detection because they know their customers’ history and have an intimate relationship with them,” Dr. Bezozo concludes. “If they see some-thing that should be checked, they can recommend a MoleSafe center in their community or suggest a visit to a der-matologist.” n

Wendy Lewis is president of Wendy Lewis & Co Ltd., Global Aesthetics Con-sultancy. She has authored 11 books, and is the founder and ed-

itor-in-chief of beautyinthebag.com.

“It provides the same level of protec-tion currently associated with mammog-raphy. MoleSafe is the world’s most ad-vanced early detection and surveillance program for melanoma, and combines all of the current proven processes into a single program. We are the largest

telemedicine program in the world with the most stored images of skin lesions.”

In a one hour visit, guests receive a comprehensive skin history, total body photography and dermoscopy, as well as mole mapping of all imaged lesions. These images are then encrypted and forwarded to a dermatologist, who re-views them and provides a report to both the patient and their physician. The patient can get a CD or a cloud applica-tion to be used for ongoing surveillance at home, and can share these images with their physicians. Another advan-tage of MoleSafe is its ability to identify melanomas at .57mm of depth, which

is significantly thinner than most der-matologists can distinguish, allowing for earlier detection. As Bezozo says, “If you are at risk for melanoma, see-ing a doctor once a year is not enough. Health care is a team sport; we have to work together.”

Another breakthrough in skin cancer detection is MelaFind, an FDA cleared device intended to help dermatologists detect melanoma while it is still curable. MelaFind uses light from visible to near-infrared wavelengths to evaluate skin lesions up to 2.5 mm beneath the skin. It is painless and non-invasive, and re-sults come back in less than a minute. “MelaFind is a painless scanning device that yields details on which moles have higher degrees of atypical or abnormal cells. In cosmetic areas where unwanted biopsies and subsequent scarring is to be avoided, this device proves particu-larly useful. Clinically suspicious moles

“IF YOU ARE AT RISK FOR MELANOMA, SEEING A DOCTOR ONCE A YEAR IS NOT ENOUGH. HEALTH CARE

IS A TEAM SPORT; WE HAVE TO WORK TOGETHER.”

MelaFind device (photo courtesy of MELA Sciences, Inc.)

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Treat aging skin on the face and body while you massage with two nutri-ent and peptide rich products that comfort and soothe skin while reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. First apply HydroPeptide Moisturize. Whether treating wrinkles, stretch marks, dry elbows or sun damaged chest and hands, HydroPeptide Mois-turize is perfect for head-to-toe hydration and repair. Your clients will love the coconut-lime verbena scent of this luxury body treatment. Follow with our signature Massage Oil which contains organic extra virgin coconut, avocado and olive oils to provide hydration deep within the skin without leaving a heavy, greasy feel. The antimicrobial and an-tibacterial properties of lauric acid and omega-3 fatty acids contribute to improved skin clarity while antioxidants protect against free radical attack. Call us now for the full protocol and pricing. 1.800.932.9873

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Salon and Spa Owners: Are you ready to join the 1000’s of spas worldwide that are getting amazing anti-aging results with HydroPeptide? Call us today and find out how we can help you grow your business and make your spa the experts in anti-aging peptides. Call us at 1.800.932.9873 or join us Monday’s at 10am PST for our webinar on Peptides. Join at www.HydroPeptide.com/Webinars.

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POWERFUL SCIENCEThe Active Hydra Lotion from SESHA Skin Therapy is a lightweight, oil-free lotion ideal for younger skin. The proprietary formula optimizes moisture retention, reduces transepidermal water loss, stimulates the outer layers of the stratum corneum and supplements existing membrane structures, says the company. It continually hydrates the skin without heaviness, leaving it fresh and supple. Green tea extract, aloe vera extract and alpha-lipoic acid make up this formula that hydrates and restores the skin back to a healthy glow.www.seshaskin.com 888.977.3742

SUN KISSED GLOWThe HydroPeptide® SPF 30 Day Cream is a rich blend of anti-inflammatory ingredients that provides a lightweight feel and powerful antioxidant protection, says the company. The revolutionary sunscreen self-adjusts to the color of any skin tone, enhances complexions and offers smooth, flawless coverage.www.hydropeptide.com800.932.9873

RESTORATIVE HYDRATIONRest-N-Restore by Advanced Rejuvenating Concepts is an essential drink of water for the skin. The hydrating 10 percent hyaluronic acid gel can be used at home or in the treatment room to help improve skin suppleness and barrier function, says the company.www.arcskincare.com800.689.0499

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OXYGEN THERAPYThe O2 Lift from IMAGE Skincare is a five-step luxury spa treatment that exfoliates and oxygenates the skin while infusing plant-derived stem cells, peptides and a high concentration of enzymatic botanicals to leave skin glowing and illuminated. “The best part about this treatment is that recipients can expect to leave with an immediate result,” said IMAGE Skincare founder and CEO Janna Ronert. “Skin feels softer, smoother and more radiant with just one treatment.” www.imageskincare.com 800.796.SKIN

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TRIPLE THREAT Control Corrective Skincare Systems® heats up the sun care market with several “triple action” sunscreens that moisturize, provide full-spectrum sun protection and treat specific skin conditions, says the company. Just in time for spring and summer, Control Corrective offers Oil Free Sunscreen SPF 30, ideal for all skin types; Intensive Skin Lightening Cream SPF 30 for those with pigmentation issues; Aroma Matte Day Cream SPF 30 for oily skin types; and Botanical Soothing Cream SPF 30 for sensitive and inflamed skin.www.controlcorrective.com 866.290.4290

VITAMIN PACKEDEpionce™ is pleased to announce the launch of a new breakthrough technology with the Intense Defense Anti-Aging + Repair Serum, the first complete multivitamin for the skin, revealing more radiant, youthful skin, says the company. The highly advanced anti-aging serum stimulates skin rejuvenation using botanical sources of vitamins A, B, C, D and E without the irritation caused by many vitamin-based serums.www.epionce.com 866.EPIONCE

YOUTHFUL VITALITYDesigned for mature skin, the Life Duö™ system from Dermaesthetics is a specially blended formula that was created from the essence of trehalose, which allows cells to grow and replenish skin to its most vital state, says the company. The Life Duö aims to reduce fine lines and wrinkles, diminish pores, moisturize, revive cellular activity and aid in the creation of new skin.www.dermaestheticsusa.com213.545.1266

REFRESHING REVIVIALThe Cucumber Tea Eye Gel from basq delivers refreshed, beautiful eyes, whether they are drained from lack of sleep or just working too hard. The key ingredient is a cucumber green tea triple moisture complex. Cucumber replenishes the skin’s natural barrier, while it’s soothing properties reduce puffiness, says the company. The combination of cucumber and tea smoothes fine lines and improves skin tone. www.basqnyc.com 888.422.7775

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WATER BASED WONDER Water is the fundamental element of the new Domina® Skin Care products, and the main ingredient of the new Idrata line. Filler Gel is the core product of the water-based Idrata line. Filler Gel’s innovative packaging includes a round shaped top that allows a micro-massage on specific wrinkles, reactivating blood flow and oxygenating tissues. Daily use provides smoother skin and decreases the appearance of wrinkles, says the company. www.dominaskincare.com888.998.0722

RADIANT HYDRATIONThe unique HydraLift Serum from Provence Cosmetics is formulated with active biotechnological ingredients from sweetened black tea, providing lifting, anti-aging and smoothing properties, says the company.It decreases the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles while leaving the skin velvety smooth. Its anti-aging and moisturizing benefits help skin recover its natural radiance. www.ProvenceCosmetics.com 877.700.7775

MOISTURIZING RENEWALThe muface daily moisturizing complex from mubeauty is a lightweight hydrating face complex, formulated with a perfectly blended balance of nutrient rich natural ingredients. It helps to restore dull skin to a natural glow,soothes stressed and dehydrated skin, removes impurities for a smoother complexion, protects against free radicals and fights the signs of aging, says the company.www.mubeauty.com415.963.9855

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stand why. Unlike the rushed, short treatments, they can extend the re-laxation experience for hours. If ham-mams and Roman baths originally revolved around a communal experi-ence, the new incarnations play into the ongoing “social spa-ing” trend. Let’s look at some global examples,

starting with the Roman bath resurgence. The traditional Roman bath circuit, based around the warm tepidarium, the hot caldarium and icy frigidarium, is making a comeback. These experiences are often being staged in modern spaces dripping with ancient Roman design cues.

The new Aire Ancient Baths in Man-hattan epitomize “the new Roman,” with an authentic Roman bath circuit and sub-terranean, candle-lit interiors dominated by Romanesque columns. Acoustic gui-tarists frequently serenade spa-goers, hitting a social spa note.

At Italy’s new Spa Museum, Nun Assisi Relais, a Roman bath circuit is dug deep within a former first century Roman amphitheater.

The brand new spa at Verulamium Park (St. Albans, UK) pays homage to the ancient Roman city it is built on with its centerpiece Roman bathing circuit.

Hammams just get hotter The hammam trend is still gaining steam. Hammams revolve around hot, warm and cool rooms, where guests enjoy soap massages, exfoliations and rinses. Many of the ancient-modern incarnations ex-tend the hot-to-cold experience into pools/bathing.

The number of traditional hammams now springing up at spas worldwide is nothing short of amazing. More than a third of the top new spas gracing Condé Nast Traveler’s 2012 and 2013 “Spa Hot

THE TREND OF “ANCIENT-CHIC”

Roman baths, Russian banyas and Turk-ish and Moroccan ham mams is rapidly gaining steam in the spa industry.

SpaFinder forecasted a rise in dis-tinctly “ancient and authentic” spa ex-periences for 2013. On the “liquid” or hydrothermal front, this trend is being played out as a renaissance in more au-thentic Roman baths, hammams and even new Russian banyas.

Now, one might argue that spas have always broadcast the “ancient” pedigrees of their bathing experiences—wheth-er Roman or Turkish. But too often in the

past, a “lite” version got served up. An old, standard steam room would be dubbed a “hammam.” Now we’re seeing more ag-gressively “preservationist,” ancient bath-ing experiences, with more hydrotherapy experiences and spas sporting a distinctly “historic-hip” look and feel—and more being built on ancient spa sites.

Fueling the trend • Thisdevelopmentintersectswiththe

“craving for the indigenous” trend named in SpaFinder’s 2011 Trends Report, and spa-goers’ insatiable demand for the hyper-authentic and cultural. But this new ancient bathing trend isn’t confined to the “local.” It’s about experiencing global bathing traditions everywhere, whether it is a Roman bath in Las Vegas or a Turkish bath in China.

• Spa-goerslovethenewancientbath-ing circuits, and it is easy to under-

List” showcase a major hammam. On the Turkish bath side are just a few glob-ally far-flung standouts. These include Caudalie Vinotherapie Spa at L’and Vineyards Resort in Portugal; ESPA at the Resorts World Sentosa in Singapore and the massive Talise Ottoman Spa (UAE). The new Marti Wellness by Spa Soul in Istanbul hits the multiple bath-ing traditions note, with both Ottoman hammams and a Roman bath.

On the Moroccan side, new stand-outs include London’s Spa at Dolphin Square, specializing in authentic ham-mam and rhassoul rituals, and the Miraj Hammam Spa at the Shangri-La Hotel in Toronto, which resembles a Marrakech riad, with its mosaic tiles and Oriental rugs.

Russian banyas rising More traditional Russian banyas are open-ing. Guests bathe, steam and plunge into icy pools at these facilities, which are known for their invigorating, birch-twig-thwacking venik experiences. Two exam-ples are the Bear and Birch in Freehold, NJ and the new Archimedes Banya in San Francisco, CA, which is essentially an East-meets-West bathing mecca.

These often chic, sleek and true-to-the-ancients bathing and hydrothermal experiences are exciting to spa consum-ers, who are craving more authenticity and global traditions than ever before. n

Susie Ellis is president of SpaFinder® Wellness, Inc. and director of the an-nual Spa and Wellness Trend Forecast. She is also chairman and CEO of the Global Spa & Wellness Summit. Ellis holds an MBA from the University of Southern California and received the International Spa Association’s 2012 Visionary Award.

by Susie Ellis

spa liquid trends

ancient Roman bath circuit situated within a first century Roman amphitheater; photo courtesy of Nun Assisi

Relais and Spa Museum in Assisi, Umbria in Italy



CREATIVE EVENTS

BY TAMMY DOERING

SALONS AND SPA OWNERS ARE ALWAYS LOOKING for creative ways to promote their business and interact with their guests. Fun and exciting “sparties” are engaging ways to facilitate new bonds between guests and employees. Promotional events help elevate your business above the competition. Offering education during the event will make your guests more savvy consumers, and you will be rewarded with a loyal client. No matter what your theme is for the event, paying attention to the details is imperative. Plus, you will want to confirm that your team is on board with the event. Do they understand the theme? Is everyone available to work the day of the event? How are staff being incentivized?

Before committing to an open house/promotional event, make sure all the details can be properly executed. This event is a way for the community to learn more about your business.

EXAMPLES OF PROMOTIONAL EVENTS YOU CAN HOST: • PowerHourofBeauty• ChampagneBonVoyage:SetSailtoHealth, Wellness and Beauty• RelaxandReclaim(withamotivational speaker, hors d’oeuvres and spa services).

Serve up health and anti-aging treats by bringing in a vegan chef to speak and educate guests on the importance of their dietary habits and how they affect their beauty. There are numer-ous ideas for a theme-focused event. At my salon in Alabama, guests know how much I love to create scrubs, masks and bath salts. With my team’s assistance, I was able to offer a delight-ful event for our guests, which provided education, giggles, creativity and fun. I saw our guests learn about ingredients

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and develop a great understanding of how this component is so important when choosing skin care products. Plus, they were able to take their hand-crafted creation home! In the months fol-lowing this event, we received phone calls from guests who said that the beautiful scent from their hand-crafted creation reminded them to call and make an appointment.

There is something special about handcraft-ed, natural products. They portray a message of love, passion and sincere caring, especially when you’re the one involved in the process! More than ever before, people are searching for ways to go more natural.

Most people say, “Soap is soap, is soap.” WRONG! It really doesn’t make a difference whether you call it “handmade soap,” “handcraft-ed soap” or “natural soapmaking.” The bottom line is that natural soapmaking is a customized blend of science meeting nature with a twist of art.

Truly natural soap is the end result of a chem-ical reaction between vegetable and/or animal fats, liquids and lye called “saponification,” which translates to “the making of soap.” This reaction transforms the ingredients into natural soap that contains moisturizing glycerin with no lye remain-ing in the soap.

It is imperative to use natural, high quality in-gredients, starting with a variety of vegetable oils such as olive, coconut or palm. You can go to exotic levels by adding a variety of specialty oils, natural butters, herbs, teas, muds and clays to create a finished bar that contains their illustrious qualities.

Plant-based essential oils, waxes, absolutes and hydrosols, which impart numerous skin benefits and aromatherapy, can be enjoyed for fragrance with every use of the bar. For color or texture, use natural clays, botanical flowers, herbs, spices or powdered fruit and vegetable enzymes. For those with sen-sitivities and skin disorders, there are unscented soaps that may contain natural clays or muds that aid with the healing process. Unscented soap may be safely used on newborn infants as well.

Glycerin is a natural byproduct that is created in the soapmaking process. It is a humectant, which means that it attracts and retains moisture on your skin. Think of it as a natural moisturizing lotion in-side each bar. Most commercial soap manufactur-

ers remove the glycerin from the soap, process it and then sell it to other industries, where it is used in pharmaceuticals, foods, cosmetics and other products. Commercial soaps contain synthetic chemicals and fragrances that are harsh, drying and may cause mild to severe skin irritations.

The end result is a mild, pure soap that gently cleanses the skin without being harsh, irritating or drying. Other additions that are beneficial to the skin may include Dead Sea Mud, clay, salts and herbal infusions. The use of various types of milks, teas or creams may be substituted for water as the liquid portion of a formula.

How can this information benefit you as a spa owner? Hold classes on natural soapmaking for your guests. This is a great opportunity to connect with your clients, and encourage them to invite friends and family. This fun event allows you to educate guests on the importance of organic and natural ingredients. Offer a “mom-n-me” spa day featuring a soap making experience.

Another fun way to engage the younger spa goer is a giggle and bubble event at the spa for a children’s birthday party! You can be as creative with the marketing and events as you are with the recipes for the soap! As more spas jockey for position in their communities and look for ways to engage their guests, this is an enjoy-able activity that can help your own spa to stand out. Plus, your guests will be able to take their “project” home with them, which will remind them of their fabulous day at your spa.

When offering this activity at your spa, al-low plenty of time. The process is in-depth and will take a few hours to complete. However, the return on your investment will be priceless! The value of the experience and the opportunity to bond with your clients cannot be measured. While the spa team is wrapping up the hand-crafted creation, now is a perfect time for the guest to relax and enjoy the spa services or amenities.

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• Longhandledspatula• Longhandledplasticspoon• Spoonrest• Stickblender• Soapmold• Long,heavydutygloves• Goggles• Apron• Disinfectant• Papertowels• Scale(onefortheentiregroupisenough)

DIRECTIONSStep 1: Put on apron, gloves and goggles.Step 2: Clean work area well with disinfectant.Step 3: Place frozen ice cubes in a designated lye container. Carefully pour the lye over the cubes. Stir often until completely melted.Step 4: Measure oils in a large, designated pouring container that can accommodate the lye mixture as well.Step 5: Place soap mold near the mixing container. Step 6: Slowly pour lye mixture into the oil container. Using a stick blender, blend the solution until trace is reached. Step 7: Pour the mixture into a soap mold. Step 8: Cover with plastic wrap for 48-72 hours (guests will bring home their creations).Step 9: Remove from molds, set onto matts. Instruct guests to allow them to air dry for one to two weeks.Step 10: Cut and trim soaps.Step 11: Place in airtight containers for prolonged storage.

Don’t want the “lye-ability” in your facility? No problem! There are many easy ways to introduce natural soap making or natural product making to your clients.

Before the event, have each guest sign a release form that includes allergy information. This is important, especially when including children in an event. Many adolescents have allergies to peanuts, chocolate, etc.

1. Rebatch soap. Grate a natural soap base into a double boiler, slow cooker or turkey roaster (best for large classes). Add a very small amount of water to blend the grated soap together. The more liquid you add, the longer the drying time will be. If you wish to add colorants such as fruit or vegetable enzymes, blend it into water prior to adding to grated soap.

Follow the same procedure with muds. For a natural fra-grance, add essential oils (5-1.5% per batch weight).

2. Melt and pour soap is a glycerin based soap that is not considered natural, but it can easily be melted in a micro-wave, slow cooker, turkey roaster (best for large classes) or a small, single eye electric burner. You can purchase colored blocks of glycerin soap, cube it and add it to melted base for texture and unique designs.

3. Naturally scented salt scrubs with single, double or triple oil are very popular and easy to use. The best salt to use is pure Dead Sea salt. Using a blender, finely grind Dead Sea salt, add your favorite oil(s) until the blend is a nice, thick and creamy texture. Melted vegetable butters are always a decadent ingredient to add.

*FYI: While cocoa butter smells yummy and is very hydrat-ing, it is considered comedogenic and is not recommended for facial use.

INSTRUCTIONS FOR YOUR GUESTS Face: Rinse face with warm water. Apply a small amount of product to the face with fingertips in a circular motion. Leave on for three to five minutes. Rinse with warm water, followed by cool water to close pores. Follow with a botanical toner and moisturizer. Note: Some skin types may experience a tingly and thermal feeling.

Body: In a dry shower, apply in a circular motion to legs, torso, arms and décolleté area. Rinse with warm water. Note that natural oils may cause slipperiness in the shower. For a deeper applica-tion, use a waterproof rotary unit with a body brush attachment.

Hands and feet: Apply vigorously in a circular motion, pay-ing close attention to the cuticles. Cover with plastic wrap for up to 20 minutes. Rinse and enjoy smooth, silky skin! Repeat if necessary.

Whether your spa offers a soap making event or hosts a guest speaker, the key is to create an engaging educational event that will keep your guests excited about your facility. The more you do, the higher your expert ranking will soar in their minds and flow from their lips! n

Tammy Doering is the president and founder of DeadSeaBulkMaterials.com, a company that has been re-searching, importing, formulating, manufacturing, teaching, providing CEU training and distributing Dead Sea ingredients and products since 1998. Doering is the author of a weekly beauty column called “Great Beauty Tips” in The Oxford Independent newspaper and the host of the Totally Pamper Me radio show.

spa|creative events at the spa

BEFORETHEEVENT,HAVEEACHGUESTSIGNARELEASEFORMTHATINCLUDESALLERGYINFORMATION.


SPAS ARE PUTTING A MODERN twist on ancient restorative water prac-tices. Many professionals have recog-nized the benefits of water treatments and services, and now offer these op-tions to their clients. Water based ther-apies are no longer just for tubs and tables. The latest trend in spa design is to include a wet amenity area for guests to gather and be encompassed by an

H20 experience. Hydrotherapy is known to boost the immune system, and can enhance a series of detoxification treat-ments, ease joint pain and relax sore muscles. Spas are not shying away from bathing rituals and healing waters; in fact they are becoming very creative in their waterworks offerings!

Two Bunch Palms is an adults-only re-sort, a great escape from urban living

in Desert Hot Springs, CA. They offer a comprehensive array of spa therapies, but the real highlight is the legendary grotto, featuring two mineral water pools that are kept at a consistent temperature. For the guest, it is the ultimate bliss. Two Bunch Palms offers a variety of immersion therapies including watsu, aqua soma, waterdance, aqua reflexology and cranial sacral in the water.

Each treatment ranges from 60 minutes at $135 to 90 minutes at $195.www.twobunchpalms.com

Castello Del Nero, located in a town called Tavarnelle Val di Pesa, is nestled away in the heart of Tuscany in Italy. The converted twelfth century castle is a beautiful sanctuary resting on rolling hills, verdant vineyards, lush olive groves and a luxurious spa. Guests enjoy holistic

treatments, and are brought into bal-ance and restored by taking a dip in the magnificent vitality pool. This amazing pool is open to guests when they have an appointment at the spa. However, day passes are available for anyone in-terested in enjoying the amenities of the sauna, aromatic steam bath, ice fountain, vitality pool and tranquility lounge on the property.A one-day pass is 35 euros.www.castellodelnero.com

In Las Vegas, NV, there is something for everyone! Fitness and tranquility can be found among the dolphins at the Mirage. The Yoga Among the Dolphins class is held in the underwater dolphin viewing area; the serene setting allows guests to settle into a deep state of peace and relaxation. Participants are delight-ed by the dolphins’ fascination with the downward dog position!A one hour class is $50. www.mirage.com/spasalon/fitness.aspx

byDeniseR.Fuller

dive into health, vitality and fun

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Castello Del Nero’s vitality pool

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The Key Lime Cove Resort and Spa in Gurnee, IL is the ulti-mate tropics-inspired resort, especially considering their lo-cation. This kid-friendly resort offers a 65,000 square foot Lost Paradise indoor water park and two spas. The Paradise Mist Spa is for the adults, and The Enchanted Lagoon is a spa for the kids. The nonstop fun at this location includes Sea-Glitz makeup glamour and Lava Shell Massages. When guests are not at the spa, they can dive into this huge water world of fun! The Enchanted Lagoon Starfish Sparkle Hand Manicure is $20. The Paradise Mist Spa Ocean Illumination Facial is $95 for 50 minutes.www.keylimecove.com

No room for a large hydrotherapy tub, or unable to add such a cutting-edge amenity to your spa right now? Soakology in Portland, ME has found a way around this limitation, and has created a sanctuary for the soles! Stress disappears with time-honored foot soaking therapies, wonderful teas and artisanal treats. Reflexology, massages and scrubs are also available as the guests relax in the ultra-comfortable lounge, soaking their cares away.The Tension Relief Soak for the feet contains an aromatic blend of milk, sandalwood, jasmine and sage for $30. www.soakology.com

There are a plethora of water services, amenities and treat-ments popping up in spas—originating from all around the world. Take the time to evaluate your facility and menu, and determine how you can incorporate the wonderful effects and health ben-efits of H20 to create your own therapeutic water world! n

Denise R. Fuller is the editor-in-chief of Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa. She is a 20-year skin and spa industry veteran. Fuller is a licensed esthetician, nail technician and body wrapping instructor for the state of Florida, and is certified in Australia as a beauty therapist. She has trained spa professionals around the world, owned a skin care dis-tribution company and has been recognized by Cambridge Who’s Who. Fuller is the founder of the National Aesthetic Spa Network, an organization where spa professionals can create lifelong connections and develop partnerships through mentoring and networking to create a stronger industry.

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Yoga at the Mirage


BY GOLDIE BONNELL

TAKING THE

HISTORICALVIEWANDTHERAPEUTICVALUEOF HYDROTHERAPY

“TAKING THE WATERS,” OR “TAKING INTO THE WATER” is a phrase that dates back before written history. Taking the waters (minerals, saline, sea and fresh water) was the primary source for good health and a long life. Taking the waters came in the form of drinking or bathing with tepid hot and cold waters for the purpose of cleansing, relaxing and refreshing the mind and purifying the soul.

Water has been used since ancient times for remedial purposes. The earliest civilizations, including Mesopotamia, Egypt, India, Crete and China, all utilized water for religious beliefs and for healing qualities. Our oldest medical literature makes numerous references to the beneficial use of water in treating various diseases.

As far back as 6,000 years ago (4000 BC), the Sumerians built the first cities along rivers and springs, with an irrigation system of canals, lakes and pools.

For the time of the Mesopotamian civilization, water played a vital role in purification, cleansing and the pursuit of immortality. The first written word, “Epic of Gilgamesh” (2000 BC), describes the ancient spa culture and taking the waters.

One of the first nations to experience the healing prop-erties of water were the Egyptians. They enjoyed bathing in their sacred Nile River. It was a natural and sacred practice to promote fertilization. Herbal baths and many early cos-metics were developed by Egyptian skin therapists.

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Egyptian priests wash themselves several times a day with cold water. This same ritual was also adopted by Greek priests.

Ancient Greece had a spa culture; bathing was about ho-listic health, hospitality and complete body wellness. Greece was the first nation to bathe for personal cleanliness, as well as for health reasons. The Greeks had erected many stately public buildings devoted only to bathing. These spa complexes includ-ed gymnasiums, tracks, exercise areas, cold water washrooms and large areas for holding educational and training sessions.

Hippocrates was an ancient Greek physician, and the first to document the healing benefits of water both internally and externally to treat all kinds of illnesses and diseases. Hippocrates was the first to note that disease occurred natu-rally in the body, not due to superstition or inflicted by the gods. Hippocrates is referred to as the “Father of Modern Medicine.” He is most remembered for the Hippocratic Oath, which remains the standard for medical ethics today.

In early Roman history, bathing was not a priority. The av-erage Roman citizens bathed every nine days or so. However, the influence of the daily bathing rituals of the Greeks slowly reached the Roman Empire. Private citizens started opening up Balanea (private bath houses) to all Roman citizens for a small fee. These bath houses were visited by all citizens, regardless of their social standing. The bathing practices became so popular that the state started opening up large public bath houses known as thermaes.

Ancient Rome surpassed all other nations with their magnifi-cent bathing facilities, which included many beautiful architec-tural features such as a huge vestibule (entrance), apodyteriums (changing rooms), palestra (exercise yard) and an ambulacrum (large walking area). In addition, plenty of space for libraries, lecture rooms, shops, galleries, museums and shaded parks surrounded the thermaes. It was up to the wealthy to main-tain the upkeep of the thermaes. At one point in history, the number of thermaes reached nearly 1,000. These thermaes were the center of social life for both the rich and the poor. It was generally a place of entertainment; people went there to relax and rejuvenate, admire art, discuss politics and socialize.

Men and women were discouraged from bathing at the same time. The women had separate bathing facilities, and often different bathing hours. Public bathing for women was considered “middle class,” as the women of upper class and higher aristocratic standing had private steam baths and were waited on by their own personal servants.

Even though women were allotted the least desirable bathing hours (from dawn until noon), they had to pay twice as much as men. Only children could enter the bathing facili-

ties at no cost. The men generally came to the thermae from afternoon until closing.

These bath houses were designed for two purposes; to exercise the body in the palestra, and to cleanse the body in the thermae.

The architectural structure and design of the thermae was quite genius for the time period. The ancient Romans used something known as the “hypocaust system” (hypo-under and caust-burning), an underflow system used to heat an area with hot air. The floors of the baths were raised and built on top of pillars of concrete and brick, a layer of concrete and another layer of tiles on top. By leaving spaces inside the walls, hot air produced from the fire circulated throughout the empty spaces, heating the inside and all the baths without polluting the air. In addition, ceramic tiles were placed inside the walls, therefore instantly warming the walls as well. The degree of warmth the hypocaust produced for the pools depended on how close the pools were to the furnace.

A typical day at the thermae in ancient RomeThe Romans would begin their day at the thermae in the pal-estra (exercise yard). Then they would go to the apodylerium (dressing/changing room), where servants were provided to guard personal belongings and carry one’s towels, oil flask and strigil (metal or bone body scraper). In the unctorium, the bather’s body was rubbed down with oil.

The sudatorium (also referred to as raconicium) was a hot air or steam bath used to induce sweat. The bather would come here to scrape their body with their strigil after heavy perspira-tion. The caldarium—an extremely hot and steamy room—was closest to the furnace. It also had a labrum, a waist high basin to splash water on the neck and face. Due to the extreme heat of the floor, special wooden sandals were provided to protect the feet. In the tepidarium, the bather would take the time for a warm bath. The frigidarium was a cooler room, which contained a plunge pool or bath. The bather would come here to cool off.

In additional thermae rooms, bath attendants provided oil massages. These thermaes also housed a laconicum (a sweating room), a natatio (large swimming pool) and several lavatrinas (washrooms and toilets). Bathers also drank from the waters they bathed in, for the purpose of inducing relaxation and helping to ease digestive maladies and metabolic problems.

The bathing process was a lengthy one, lasting for sev-eral hours each day. The passage from one room to the next could be extremely slow; therefore bathers would nibble on delicious treats offered by vendors.

ROMANSPABATHINGALSOINCLUDEDPHYSICALANDMENTAL EXERCISES.THEIMPORTANCEOFSKINHEALTH,ANDTHEABILITYOFHOTANDCOLDTOEVOKECHANGEINTHEBODY,ISASANCIENTANDVITAL

ASTHEORIGINALTREATMENTSTHATWESTILLPRACTICETODAY.



Body therapy was critical in Greek and Roman culture. While the Greeks thought of the waters as spa bathing, the Romans considered the waters more as social and political activity. Roman spa bathing also included physical and mental exercises. The importance of skin health, and the ability of hot and cold to evoke change in the body, is as ancient and vital as the original treatments that we still practice today.

Two prominent physicians of the Roman Empire, Galen and Celsius, each agreed that bathing was the best treatment for most diseases and the optimal way to remain healthy.

Turkish baths (hammams) grew from the natural hot springs that have been renowned since ancient times for health and therapeutic properties. It was a part of everyday life and culture. A variety of bathing rituals were practiced to mark specific milestones in life:• Bridal bath. Taken one day before a wedding• 40-daybath. Marked the 40th day following the birth of a child• Teardryingbath. Attended by all relatives and friends

20 days after a death• Votarybath. Held when a person’s wish was fulfilled • Guestbath. The hostess invites her friends and rela-

tives to meet a special visitor• Holidaybath. Taken on the eve of religious holidays

During the sixteenth century, Europe revived the ancient Roman spa culture and began practicing the natural thera-peutics of these thermal springs. During this time, numerous kings and queens traveled throughout Europe to take to the waters, specifically to aid with reproductive problems. Royals known to frequent the baths included French King Henry II, III and IV, as well as Catherine de Madici, her daughter Margaret of Valois and English King Henry VIII.

One of the most important spa guests between 1580 and 1581 was Michael de Montaigne. He was the most in-fluential writer of the French Renaissance. He invented the concept of the essay, and wrote the first spa travel guide about where to take to the waters. Montaigne traveled from spas in Belgium, Germany, Switzerland and Italy seeking treatment for his gallbladder.

In the same century, others traveled to the New World (the newly discovered American continent) in search of healing wa-ters. In 1513, Ponce de Leon found the legendary spring now known as the Fountain of Youth. The legend is that anyone who bathes in it or drinks from it will have their youth restored. This legendary fountain located in St. Augustine, FL remains a major tourist attraction to this day.

Founders of beneficial water therapiesBetween the seventeenth and twentieth centuries, Europe rebuilt their ancient spa culture from the concepts of ancient Rome and Greece. These re-energized spas were rebuilt on natural mineral and thermal springs, with the focus of taking to the waters in a bath center and being a place of leisure to

rebuild oneself. These spas consisted of a grand hotel, parks, gardens, natural drinking fountains, long-term residences, summer cottages, restaurants, shopping, marketplace and a casino. Each European country had its own spa culture towns.

The father of hydrotherapy: Vincent Priessnitz (1799-1851) was a peasant who grew up in a small town of Austria. Throughout Germany and Austria, everyone was fond of bath-ing, and used water to treat many ailments; this was also part of religious practices. When Priessnitz was a young man, he sustained a very severe injury caused by a loaded wagon, re-sulting in a caved in chest and broken ribs. His doctors did not believe he would survive. Priessnitz recalled an occasion when he treated a badly crushed, bleeding finger by placing it in cold water until the pain subsided. He decided to treat his broken ribs in the same manner, and gradually cured himself.

This prompted Priessnitz to apply cold water to treat vari-ous other diseases and ailments on others. He had no formal education; therefore the medical profession had considerable oppositions. Priessnitz stressed the importance of healthy eat-ing, exercise, fresh air, plenty of sleep, rest and water over conventional medicine. Priessnitz had much success in treating patients that doctors had given up on and deemed incurable. Within a few years, his success of “cold water therapy” made him famous throughout the world. He is now known as the father of modern hydrotherapy.

Hydrotherapy (also known as hydropathy or water ther-apy) takes advantage of the many physical properties of water (such as ice, liquid and vapor), various pressures and temperatures for treatments. It is used in the medical field, specifically in occupational therapy and physiotherapy as a natural pain relief treatment. Hydrotherapy uses the body’s natural stimuli to hot or cold. Therefore, the nerves carry an impulse from the skin that activate the body’s natural heal-ing aspect, meaning it stimulates the immune system. The end result is lessened pain, invigorated blood circulation and increased production of stress hormones.

To quote Sebastian Kneipp: “Nature has provided us gen-erously with everything we need to remain in good health.”

Sebastian Kneipp (1821-1897) was a priest and naturo-path; his life philosophy was based on everything that was provided by nature. At the age of 28, he had a severe case of tuberculosis, which at that time was considered fatal. He came across a book from the previous century that spoke about hydrotherapy and it’s healing abilities. He was instantly drawn to all of the amazing information, and became an en-thusiastic follower of the cold water treatments developed by Priessnitz. In order to boost his immune system, he took several quick baths in the freezing cold Danube River over a one week period. To his amazement, his tuberculosis went into remission. Kneipp’s healing was the beginning of a life-long dedication to the study of healing waters, herbs and plants. He continued the research where Priessnitz had left off. Kneipp was the inventor of cold rinses, water stepping,

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hot/cold half and full baths, contrast baths and hot/cold wet packs and compresses. In 1886 he wrote My Water Cure, which was translated into many languages.

Iodine-grine therapy: These mineral baths are naturally rich in iodine and salt, and are used mostly in Europe for gradual recovery and recuperation from illness.

Swiss shower: An invigorating shower that increases cir-culation. It is delivered via a high-pressure hose as a standing body massage. The water fluctuates from hot to cold, therefore boosting circulation. It is mainly used to help relieve rheumatic and arthritic pain.

Balneotherapy employs the use of mineral salts and mineral baths for therapeutic purposes. The gentle massage effect of millions of bubbles breaking down on the skin revi-talizes blood circulation to muscles and joints. Balneotherapy is widely used to treat back pain, arthritis and sports injuries. The bath should have a temperature between 30 degrees Celsius/86 degrees Fahrenheit to 37 degrees Celsius/98.6 degrees Fahrenheit, or at body temperature for best results. The therapy should run anywhere from 10 to 30 minutes, and baths should be repeated several times a day rather than in-creasing duration. The temperature of the bath should never reach beyond 41 degrees Celsius/105.8 degrees Fahrenheit, as that will influence the efficacy of the minerals.

Balneotherapy should be enjoyed at least one hour after eating to avoid interfering with digestion. If the client has se-vere varicose veins, they should avoid putting their legs into the bath. Clients that have cardiac conditions and hyperten-sion should avoid hyper thermic baths, and exercise caution when taking hot baths at home.

Thalassotherapy stems from the Greek term “thalassa,” which refers to the sea. It incorporates the use of seawater or seaweed in therapeutic treatments as well as medical therapy. It is based on the use of seawater, seaweed, sand and the shore climate for healing. Seawater has the same trace elements that are found in human plasma, and contains

all the elements necessary for cellular life. Seaweed has all of these elements—concentrated by up to 10,000 times!

The main trace elements in thalassotherapy are magnesium, potassium, calcium, sodium and iodine, which are absorbed through the skin and create a major detoxification treatment. Thalassotherapy can be applied in the form of marine or algae mud, warm seawater wraps, warm seawater baths or the inhalation of sea water steam referred to as sea fog. Due to the detoxification process and iodine content, caution must be taken with certain health conditions (such as hyper/hypo thyroid). Pregnant women should not receive this treatment.

Health giving waters in GermanyThroughout Germany, health resorts and spas use the power of water to alleviate complaints. It is part of the culture for people to go on Kur (resort therapy) for a minimum of two weeks, at least twice a year. There are more than 350 health resorts in Germany; one only has to decide which type interests them:• Mineralandthermalsprings• Medicinalmudsparesorts• Climatehealthresorts• Seasidespasandresorts• Kneippspasandhealthresorts• FelkeandSchroththerapyresorts

Bad Homburg is known for its therapeutic water wells and the health related facilities it offers. The Kurpark has eight natural wells named after German Royals.

These healing waters are still prescribed by the medical profession today. There is no charge for any of the natural wells, nor is there a limit on how many bottles one can fill up. It is simply part of the culture.

1. Elisabethenbrunnen has been used to treat gastrointestinal disorders since 1834.

2. Auguste-Viktoria-Brunnen has been used to treat gastrointestinal disorders since 1910.

3. Landgrafenbrunnen has been used to treat liver and gallbladder disorders since 1899. Of all the springs, it has the highest percentage of salt.

4. Louissenbrunnen has been used to treat cardiovascular disorders since 1856.

5. Stahlbrunnen has been used to treat anemia since 1841. Steel Spring is rich in low carbonic acid.

6 . Kaiserbrunnen is a well that even the Romans knew about. Der Sprudel natural fizz water contains sodium chlo-ride, and has been re-drilled twice since 1700.

7 . Ludwigsbrunnen is a mineral spring. It has a low mineral content and is rich in carbolic acid; it has been used since 1809.

8. Solesprudel has been used since the 1850s for bath-ing. It is said to be like “bathing in champagne,” and is used to treat dermatological disorders such as psoriasis and vari-ous forms of dermatitis.

Bad Homburg offers a unique spa culture whose regular visitors once included kings and queens. Everybody came to

The water from Elisabethenbrunnen is used to treat gastroenterological disorders. It always formed the focal point of social spa life in Bad Homburg. The temple

covering the spring was designed by Emperor Wilhelm II himself. The statue of Hygeia, the Greek goddess of health, is seated inside the temple.

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regenerate, revitalize, relax and simply rest, even the German kaiser, whose name the spa proudly claims. To this day, it is known as the “spa of princes,” and has visitors from all over the world who enjoy the atmosphere of the natural springs, soothing treatments, parks, cafés, restaurants, casinos and sim-ply enjoying the healing. Spielbank, the casino in Wiesbaden, Germany, opened its doors on May 23,1841. To this day, it is still a black tie affair—no casual dress allowed.

Bad Homburg has five spa clinics, all of which hold the highest standards in holistic therapies and include state-of-the-art diagnostic therapeutic facilities with highly qualified staff. Opposite the Kaiser Wilhelm Bad is the Kur-Royal-Aktiv Health Club, which has state-of-the-art fitness facilities and outstanding fitness classes. Nearby is the Vital Center, which offers various Ayurvedic treatments and all concepts surround-

ing this ancient Indian therapy. There also is the Taunus Therme Thermal Bath, which has various pools that cover more than 1,400 square meters, or about a third of an acre.

Kur-Royal Day Spa at Kaiser-Wilhelm Bad: The bath at Kaiser-Wilhelm Bad is located on a total of 14 natural mineral springs—six cold springs, six carbonated saline springs, a pure salt water spring and two chalybeate (containing salt and iron) springs. These springs are for drinking cures (digestive, intesti-nal and circulatory problems), and are used as natural baths (to treat arthritis, rheumatism, etc.) for guests at the Kaiser Wilhelm bath. The spa is about restoring harmony in the mind, body and spirit and creating good health, which it has achieved for over 170 years. In addition, it offers acupressure, aromatherapy, manual lymph drainage, stone treatments, Hawaiian, Lomi Lomi Nui, sports, Tibetan, Thai, trigger point massage, reiki, shiatsu, moxa therapy and customized skin treatments.

The Kur-Royal Day Spa in the Kaiser-Wilhelm Bad is open from 10 a.m. to 10 p.m., and guests can customize their spa visit to any length of time, from one hour to a full day.

One can enjoy all the natural beauty of the spa without necessarily booking any spa services. As with any spa, a service or package of treatments will be customized and tailored to your needs, and can begin as early as 9 a.m. The spa etiquette requires that you bring along bathing attire, as there are global guests. It is customary to have “textile-free bathing“ in Germany, yet the practice of being nude is not accepted in most counties; it is especially unacceptable in the U.S. The changing facilities are unisex, and the spa provides towels, saris/sarongs and all

the natural spring water one can consume. For a small fee, guests can enjoy refreshing healthy foods at the Quellenbar.

In order to enjoy the traditional beauty of the Kaiser Wilhelm-Bad, guests can set their own schedule of leisure. There is a limit of 75 spa guests per day, so that the staff can uphold quality customer service at all times.

The Kaiser Wilhelm Bad offers traditional and ancient rituals that one can enjoy surrounded by the amazing ar-chitectural designs of this period in history.• Thestoneovenbathissurroundedbythefiveelements.

It has a mild sauna effect, with temperatures around 55 degrees Celsius/131 degrees Fahrenheit.

• Inanaquasalinatreatment,saltwaterdripsthroughblack-thorn brushwood, creating naturally salty air, ideal for re-spiratory problems.

• ThecaldariumisaRomansteambath,setat45degreesCelsius/113 degrees Fahrenheit.

• Theicefountainischaracterizedbyglaciercoldfreshness,with a fog shower and a hail shower.

• Forthehaysteambath,warmsteamispassedthroughnatural untreated hay (grasses, herbs and flowers from the Kurpark). Hay is exposed to warm steam, and releases hydroxylcinnamic acid, a natural compound of cumarin, which is a natural anti-inflammatory and antioxidant, and reduces edema.

• Theherbalvaporbathhasamild,dryheatandselectedherbal essences that help to stimulate specific foot reflex zones and improve circulation.

• Theodoriumaromatherapyinhalationtherapyroomim-proves physical and psychological well-being.

• Inthesandlightbath,onecanenjoythesoundsofthesea, warm sand and sunshine from dawn until dusk, a time span of about 20 minutes.

• Thesaltwaterrelaxationpoolisaplacetosit,lieorswimin warm saltwater (32 degrees Celsius/89.6 degrees Fahrenheit) for a maximum time of 20 to 30 minutes. Afterwards, one must relax for a minimum of 30 minutes.

• Inthedarkenedroomforwavedreams(Dr.Eigenmann’smethod), guests listen to customized music that is played to get their heart beating at an ideal rate.

• TheTaunusThermeistuckedawayinaplushgarden,sur-rounded by a beautiful landscape, with murmuring springs,

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“Hydrotherapy has been used by many cultures for thousands of years. Water in any form has a healing and cleansing effect, and spas are the traditional facilities where water therapies are applied for the health benefits of their visitors. It is exciting to see that more and more spas in North America are returning to the roots of the original meaning of ‘spa,’ and it is comforting to know that there are now several establishments that specialize in the training of hydo-therapy treatments. This knowledge will result in an increase of safe water based treatments, both for relaxation and rehabilitation.” -Hannelore Leavy, spa industry expert


bubbling waters and waterfalls. It has created the modern connection to a historical bathing culture. It offers unique therapeutic baths and thermal waters

that are designed for recuperation of one’s physical, mental and emotional well being. The Taunus Therme “waters“ are medically prescribed orthopedic baths.

These leisure time thermal baths are based on the ancient element theory of water, fire, air and Earth. It opens daily at 11 a.m. and stays open as late as 2 a.m. There is a textile-free culture, meaning that swimwear is optional. The curing waters utilized at the Taunus Therme come from the Auguste Viktoria and Louissenbrunnen. These medicinal waters arrive at the surface of the Earth at 22.4 degrees Celsius/72.32 degrees Fahrenheit, and are heated at various temperatures through-out theTherme for therapeutic purposes. The thermal water has a pH of 6.0 and consists of cations (positively charged ions), anions (negatively charged ions) and trace elements.

These healing waters can be enjoyed at various tempera-tures and atmospheres for specific healing abilities. Nothing is more restorative than swimming in the warm, therapeutic waters while it is snowing, with the snowflakes falling on your face and head.

These waters, which range in temperature from 9.5 de-grees Celsius/49 degrees Fahrenheit and 37.5 degrees Celsius/99.5 degrees Fahrenheit, include a bathing lake, in-door pool, outdoor pool, hot whirlpool, sauna indoor pool, sauna outdoor pool, therapy pool and massage pool.

An adjoined wellness center offers oxygen treatments, various massages and body treatments, Eastern philosophy and skin treatments. It is the ideal place for those who enjoy relaxing in a sauna. Guests have the opportunity to take in several saunas, each in an original Finnish blockhouse sauna designed in Finland, the country of its origin.

The blockhouse sauna, designed exclusively for women, has a sauna yard and an LED lighted sauna. It is connected to a roof terrace, where guests can enjoy the sun on a warm day or get snowed on during the winter.

Stepping into the sauna landscape area is like going on a vacation to Finland.• TheGemstoneSaunaisapproximately65-75degrees

Celsius/149-167 degrees Fahrenheit. The amethyst gem neutralizes negative energies and helps promote mental clarity and concentrations. In Germany, it is prescribed to treat disorders of the respiratory tract, lungs, skin and nerves.

• TheOrganicSaunaisapproximately65-75degreesCel sius/149-167 degrees Fahrenheit. Distilled water

is steamed, and sieves cover the openings. The steam absorbs the active herbs (chamomile, rosemary, sage, thyme, peppermint, lavender and arnica) and distributes them throughout the sauna.

• Thearoma sauna is approximately95-105degreesCelsius/203-221 degrees Fahrenheit. Pouring essential oils over the hot stones in the sauna heater instantly in-creases the humidity and heat in the sauna.

• TheYinandYangSaunaisapproximately95-105degreesCelsius/203-221 degrees Fahrenheit. Chinese teachings say that these two opposites are independent, yet need one another in order to be complete. Intermediately pouring hot water/essential oils on the sauna heater to increase heat and humidity creates an intensification of the heat stimulation.

• TheVitalitySaunaisapproximately85-95degreesCelsius/185-203 degrees Fahrenheit.

• TheMeditationSaunaisapproximately60-70degreesCel-sius/140-158 degrees Fahrenheit. Set at a lower tempera-ture, this sauna is designed especially for meditating and relaxing, and is accompanied by meditation music.

• TheVenusSauna(thewomen’ssauna)isapproximately85-95 degrees Celsius/185-203 degrees Fahrenheit.

• TheMentalSauna isapproximately85-95degreesCelsius/185-203 degrees Fahrenheit. In the Mental Sauna, one can receive new energy through relaxation and strengthening their immune system. The steam in the air of the sauna (humidity) must be so low that water from the sweating skin can evaporate, which leads to the cooling of the skin. This is why the sauna is also called a dry hot-air bath.

• TheFengShuiSaunaisapproximately95-105degreesCelsius/203-221 degrees Fahrenheit. The wind symbolizes the power and energy of the heaven, and water is the force of the Earth. The goal is to create harmony to promote a dynamic equilibrium.One important lesson we can glean from the historical

background of taking the waters is that no matter how long ago these spa concepts were born, they remain extremely beneficial to our health. There are no limits to the ways these treatments can be adopted into innovative therapies for our own practices. n

Goldie Bonnell has more than 20 years of experience in the skin care and well-ness industries. She has designed pro-grams and client treatments for many spas. Bonnell has been involved in the building of training centers for The International Dermal Institute and Dermalogica. Teaching is Bonnell’s passion, and she has been a featured speaker on numerous topics at industry trade shows through-out the U.S. and Germany.


THEREARENOLIMITSTOTHE WAYSTHESETREATMENTSCAN BE ADOPTED INTO INNOVATIVE

THERAPIESFOROUROWNPRACTICES.


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says the company. Regular and sequential treatments are recommended for a 16 to 24 month time frame (two to four week intervals for the face, and four to six week intervals for the body). www.depilarsystem.com 877.GO.DEPILAR

FLORAL BOOST Help your stressed out clients feel transformed and look lovely with the Rose Nurturing Body Wash from Dr. Hauschka® Skin Care. The soft scent of rose provides a feeling of comfort and luxury, while sunflower and avocado oils hydrate skin for an overall sense of well-being. Rose flower oil also helps to tone skin, leaving it soothed and luminous, says the company.www.drhauschka.com800.247.9907

SUN SHIELD MDSolarSciences™ introduces their new Sun Care product line, consisting of mineral derived water resistant protective sunscreens that combine broad spectrum protection with luxurious ease of application. Products do not clog pores, irritate skin or interfere with makeup, says the company. “Our line of proprietary formulas represent the gold standard in sun protection today, utilizing the safest ingredients, most innovative technology and comfortable application available,” says Dr. Robert J. Friedman, CEO of MDSolarSciences.www.mdsolarsciences.com877.301.5355

BODY,EQUIPMENTAND SUPPLYPRODUCTS

MORE NEWS

REFORMULATED LINE COOLA® introduces a unique reformulation of their mineral SPF sunscreen collection. The new formula provides full coverage that leaves the skin at its natural color without a “white lifeguard nose” look. Products in the collection are reef friendly and water resistant for up to 80 minutes, says the company. www.coolasuncare.com 888.682.6652

SOOTHING WORDSHarness the healing power of water utilizing De La Terre Skincare®’s elegant collection of glassware and gemstones. Energize infusions for topical hydrotherapy with a collection of beautifully etched bowls with the healing words, “Peace – Love – Joy” and rough mineral gemstones, which support the therapeutic

action of the waters. Using these items during a skin session increases the healing effects of the treatment and enhances the spa experience for your guests, says the company. www.delaterreskincare.com 828.252.8400

PEDICURE PRESERVATION Offer your on-the-go clients a revolutionary new way to protect their wet toenail polish after receiving a fabulous pedicure! Pedi Protexx™ surrounds the foot

with a protective shell large enough to prevent damage to the wet polish. The Pedi Protexx plastic hood slides on any flip flop type of sandal and stays in place, with a design that grabs thethong of the flip flop, says the company. Users can walk or drive while wearing Pedi Protexx, making it a great retail item for clients who don’t have time to let their pedicure dry.www.pedi-protexx.com 866.867.1219

Page 68 Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • June 2013

SPA

NEW

S POOLSIDE FOOTWEAR SlotFlops™ from ArchPort® Footwear are flip flops with slots designed to carry credit cards, identification and other valuables while at the spa, poolside or beach. Your clients will love not having to bother with a cumbersome wallet or purse when they are enjoying time by the water this summer. SlotFlops have a thin, flexible, cushioned foot bed with natural arch support due to the position of the slot insert, says the company. SlotFlops are available in six colors, in both men and women’s sizes.www.slotflops.com

A TREAT FOR FEET The NightCare™ Heel Treatment Kit from NightCare Products includes the Moisturizing Gel Heel Sock and a tube of Intensive Healing Foot Cream. The Gel Heel Socks deeply soften and moisturize hard, dry skin. The leopard print heel socks deliver mineral oil to repair damaged skin, and the cream instantly moisturizes skin to help heal and prevent dry, cracked areas, says the company. Its velvety, long-lasting formula nourishes feet with vitamins A, D and E. www.nightcareproducts.com


given time or can you custom blend colors to match a dress, a shoe, an eye color? Do you specialize in anti-aging treat-ments? Acne care? Waxing queens? Get creative here. Write them down.

3. Solve a missing link. What is a need that is not being fulfilled in your town or industry? Are many of your cli-ents working women who need to make

appointments after hours? Why not offer a “happy hour” between 5:00 and 8:00 p.m. with mini snacks and beverages? Are you surrounded by a lot of area busi-nesses? Why not offer lunch hour treat-ments with complimentary makeup ap-plications, along with a healthy snack to take back to the office? Businesses that solve a problem or fulfill a need are sure to have staying power. What are the challenges your customer faces in dealing with this industry or local mar-ket? Write down your ideas.

4. Offer proof. Testimonials are a great way to alleviate consumer skepti-cism. Write down the names of a few people who can offer a testimonial for

WHAT IS A USP? WELL IF YOU

have to ask, you probably need one. Your Unique Selling Proposition serves as the theme of your marketing. It is the base of everything you put out there about yourself and your company. Having a USP answers the question of every consumer: “Why should I buy from you and not your competition?”

What unique value do you bring to the market? Ask yourself the following questions:

How do I stand out? What do I have that other salons don’t? How will I attract clients to my salon despite the other op-tions they have? Think of it as a brand-ing tool as well. For example, Fed Ex is the company you call when you need to send a package that absolutely, posi-tively needs to arrive at its destination tomorrow. M&Ms are the chocolate that melts in your mouth, not in your hand. The USP for these products is in their advertising and on their packaging, so it is never too far from their message. My USP for natural beauty was creating products and treatments from nature that combined inner and outer beauty. Once you have a USP, it becomes much easier to market yourself. All you have to do is ask yourself: Is this message synergistic with my USP?

How does one develop a USP? 1. Use your best benefits. What is the end result of doing business with you? What do your clients come away with? Are your services results driven? Relaxing and pampering? Write down three benefits.

2. Offer something that is unique, not just superior quality or faster service. Identify what makes you truly unique. Are you a nail color junkie? Do you have more colors available at any

you. New guests are much more likely to visit your salon or spa based on a re-ferral. Share before and after pictures on your Facebook page, blog or Instagram account.

5. Be clear and concise. Wrestle with the words and make each of them the perfect choice. Take all the ideas you have written and form them into one compel-ling sentence that sums up who you are.

6. Take your USP and integrate it into all your marketing materials. This includes your business cards, salon menus, flyers and signage (both internal and external), newsletters, website and Internet marketing.

7. Last but not least, make sure you can deliver on your USP’s promise. If

you can’t, all the work you have put in will have been wasted. Build systems into your business to make sure you deliver; re-member that people fail—systems don’t. Your future success or failure depends on what you deliver. Clarify your message, and your salon will be booked! n

Millie Haynam has been a skin care and spa industry professional for more than 30 years. She is president and creative director of Natural Beauty Salon and Academy in Twinsburg, OH. Haynam is recognized in Who’s Who in America/Business-Marketing, and was the first run-ner up for AVA Salon of the Year in 2004.

by Millie Haynam

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Identify what makes you truly unique. Are you a nail color junkie? Do you specialize in anti-aging treatments? Acne care?


DEVELOPING YOUR CAREERSTEP 3: PLACE

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BY BRENDA K. HELPS AND LORI HUTCHINSON

IN PREVIOUS ARTICLES, WE HAVE discussed the importance of person (self re-flection and self assessment as a means for es-tablishing direction in the development of your career) and perspective (the importance of hav-ing a clear and accurate understanding of how others see you). In this article, we highlight the importance of place.

When the culture, values and environment of your workplace don’t reflect your needs and desires, it is difficult for you to remain engaged. It is only when you are fully engaged at work that you are in the best position to do great work and be noticed by others in a positive light.

In order to make wise career choices, it is critical to understand the composition and sub-tleties of your organization:

What about the structure of your workplace? The next time you return to work, be more aware of the place. One aspect of your workplace struc-ture is the person you report to. One of the most common reasons people leave a position is that they don’t respect or like their manager. Statistics show that most people will leave a job even when they like the company where they work if they don’t like their manager.

Do you have more than one manager? If you do, are they in conflict with each other? Are your job responsibilities clear? Or do you have to step over someone in order to get your work done? Do you have the right support and assistance when it’s needed? Do you have the tools you need? What about the people at the very top? Do they lead by example? Are the right people in the right positions? Or are there many bad apples pulling the team down?

What about the atmosphere? When you re-turn to work after going on vacation and look around your workplace with fresh eyes, what do you see? Are people smiling and relaxed, or do they seem stressed? Do you observe people having fun and teasing one another? Or does everyone seem serious and focused solely on

tasks, and not on people? Are work areas kept organized, neat and tidy? Do staff members take the time to pick up items that were dropped on the floor? Are people proud to work for the com-pany? What is the vibe? Is there positive energy? What is celebrated? Who is recognized, and for what behavior or actions? Do people speak up about what is not working at the company, or do they keep silent? What actions are most valued?

The American Psychological Association has noted that there are some universals when it comes to what makes us happy. There are also universal issues that cause us unhappiness at work. The latter includes fear, confusion, loneli-ness and a lack of control over the work we do. Factors that make us happy include autonomy, competence, relatedness and self-esteem. You can use this information to assess your own situ-ation at your place of work.

Thinking about all of these questions can help you determine what you like or don’t like about your workplace. Is the company getting better every day? Is it moving forward in a posi-tive way or going backwards in a negative way?

Does your work environment align with your goals and who you are? There are some common cultural characteristics of different workplaces. Think about the place where you are now employed, and if it is truly the kind of place where you want to work.

The most realistic workplace culture is one where the bottom line is the most important. Numbers and objective measurements are the most important factors that the people at the top use to make decisions at a company with this type of workplace culture. Numbers drive the business, and people may feel unfulfilled at this type of company if they sense that.

A creative company culture is one where entrepreneurial orientation is most important. Staff are encouraged and expected to provide suggestions for improvement. Giving people freedom to think outside the box creates a free spirit and upbeat vibe. 4

AN ENTERPRISING CULTURE IS A WELL BALANCED ENVIRONMENT IN WHICH BOTH PEOPLE AND NUMBERS ARE IMPORTANT. THE COMPANY IS ALERT TO COMPETITION AND REACTS QUICKLY TO MAINTAIN MARKET SHARE.


business|developing your career

A “social work environment” means exactly what the name says. The relationships between people are the prime commodity at this type of workplace.

An enterprising culture is a well balanced environment in which both people and numbers are important. The com-pany is alert to competition and reacts quickly to maintain market share.

A conventional culture exists where the boss/manager and hierarchy reigns supreme. A common attitude might be: “It’s my way or the highway.” This orientation flows through to the staff.

What if you want to change companies? First, ask your-self how engaged you are in your current position. The Gallup Organization* developed the questions below after interviewing thousands of workers from all kinds of organi-zations. The following are their 12 key employee expecta-tions. When satisfied, these form the foundation of strong feelings of engagement. Study results have shown a strong link between high Q12 survey scores and high worker per-formance, which is linked to successful business outcomes.

1. Do I know what’s expected of me at work?2. Do I have the materials and equipment I need to do my work right?3. Do I have the opportunity to do what I do best at work every day?4. In the last seven days, have I received recognition or praise for doing good work? 5. Does my supervisor (or anyone else at work) seem to care about me as a person? 6. Is there someone at work who encourages my profes-sional development? 7. At work, do my opinions seem to count? 8. Does the mission/purpose of my company make me feel that my job is important? 9. Are my fellow employees committed to doing quality work? 10. Do I have a best friend at work? 11. In the last six months, has someone at work talked to me about my progress?


THE INTERNET IS A POWERFUL TOOL—CAREFULLY RESEARCH AND REVIEW ALL ASPECTS OF THE COMPANY’S WEBSITE. JUST AS IMPORTANTLY, REVIEW WHAT IS WRITTEN ABOUT

THEM ON OTHER WEBSITES AS WELL.

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12. In the last year, have I had opportunities at work to learn and grow? * Source: Gallup Q12 Employee Engagement Survey

After taking this survey, do you feel like you want to move to another company?

If so, how do you do research into other potential new companies’ real story before you apply?

The Internet is a powerful tool—carefully research and review all aspects of the company’s website. Just as impor-tantly, review what is written about them on other websites as well. See their scores on Trip Advisor. Read their press, and learn about their successes (or failures). How have they competed in this economy? What changes have they made to adapt to the changing world and economy? Have they just survived or flourished? Ask people you know what they think about the company. Consider speaking to vendors and other people who used to work there (take some informa-tion with a grain of salt). What do they say? Is this a good time to join the company or not? Are they quality (heart and people focused) or quantity (head and numbers) oriented? Are they well balanced? Review their slogan, and the ethics, integrity and values they claim on their website. Does the company give back to others? What 10 adjectives describe their culture? What 10 adjectives describe you, and is there a potential match between you and this company?

If you are not engaged, your performance will definitely show it. Staying in a position where you are not engaged will not bring any value to your organization or your career.

We wish you luck as you decide whether to stay at your current workplace or take a different path. n

Lori Hutchinson worked for 15 years in hospitality human resources management at three properties in California prior to founding Hutchinson Consulting in 1993. Hutchinson Con-sulting is a hospitality management recruitment firm. In 2012, Hutchinson founded OurSpaCommunity.com.

Brenda K. Helps has more than 20 years of experience in human resources in the hospitality and spa industries. She has held senior positions in hu-man resources for Miraval, Rosewood Resorts and Fairmont Hotels & Resorts. Throughout her career, Helps has fo-cused on recruitment and training, with an emphasis on career develop-

ment for all levels of staff. She currently serves as an execu-tive recruiter for Ventikos Associates.

business|developing your career


Visit us in Vegas June 22-24 @ Booth 1031

REV050113


TO DEFINE YOUR BRANDtraditionTURN TO

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HAVING AN ADVANTAGE OVER YOUR COMPETITION sometimes requires that you think outside the box. One way to do this is to view yourself as your own client, rather than the principal. Trading places also requires that you objec-tively view your business in segments, from its operational minutia to its entirety.

One of these segments is your treatment menu, and try-ing to understand how it may or may not appeal to your cli-ent base. As a business principal, constantly assessing what does and does not work for the client—and ultimately your bottom line—is critical, not only for staying open, but also for staying competitive and profitable. This is true regardless of the industry a business is part of, or even its size.

Spa principals need to regularly assess which treatments are working, and which ones are not (based on whether or not they are profitable). Additional assessments should also include the product lines carried, how they are used within the spa’s core treatment variants (e.g. facial, massage, body, etc.) and how they relate to the overall operation. Maintain an open line of communication with your product suppli-ers. This is useful for training purposes, as well as to keep informed about new formulas, product obsolescence and trends. Adapting products to different types of treatments or seasonal offerings is also critical to this assessment.

It is by understanding all of these variants that a spa principal functions more productively and interactively with their operation, including their staff and client base. Another fundamental responsibility of a spa principal is to do re-search on the latest treatment trends, and also to have a functional understanding of the historical and traditional aspects of spa; this involves appreciating the types of historical treatments that continue to be offered in spas around the world.

A spa tradition I recently had the pleasure of experiencing the new Hammam Ritual at Kohler Waters Spa in Burr Ridge, IL. As impressed as I was with this offering, I certainly appreciate that not all spas are equipped to offer their clients extensive water-based treatments.

Fundamentally, every spa must assess where they are at within their own level of operation, and how to move forward by determining whether or not their existing treatment menu has any room for expansion to incorporate treatments they are not currently offering, including cutting-edge water treatments that could be beneficial for the business as well as the clients.

While your spa facility may not be as elaborate as Kohler Waters Spa locations, which are synonymous with water, you may be able to develop your own version of a hammam ritual. If you have a wet room, it is possible. Here is some background and history on the hammam. Assess whether your spa can reasonably adapt this concept to offer your clients a healing and restorative experience. Communicate with your suppli-ers and enrich your relationship with them; this will help you explore ways to expand your treatment menu and minimize the increase in new costs (e.g. equipment or product).

The hammam arrivesThe Hammam Ritual is a treatment that has recently been added to the menu for all three Kohler Waters Spa locations (Kohler, WI; Chicago, IL and St. Andrews, Scotland). It is an 80-minute service that combines elements of water, heat, aromatherapy, exfoliation, massage, facial and hair treat-ments. It was very comprehensive, and I especially appreci-ated how it honored the traditions of this historical healing and restorative treatment experience.

“The hammam is our spiritual approach to a therapeutic water treatment,” explains Jean Kolb, director of wellness. “It indeed feels very much like a baptismal experience, with the pouring on of warm water. It is done very slowly and de-liberately, cleansing away all the impurities of the mind and body. We are being respectful of the Turkish tradition while still putting a bit of a Kohler twist on the overall experience.”

Hammam history and semantics Hammams have been around for centuries. They existed in geographic areas that were dominated by conquering Romans, Turks and Arabs at various times. The hammam has always been popular for its healing and restorative benefits of heat, water, exfoliation and massage.

It is believed that bathing became de rigueur as far back as the third century, when the Romans built elaborate bathing emporiums for the wealthy, military members and the general public. Around the same time, the Greeks and Turks were also discovering the benefits of individual and communal bathing. The Turks would add the element of very hot water and steam, and their hammams were known for bathing with hot water. In 600 AD, Muhammad recommended steam bathing, which was the Islamic version of the hammam; in Arab dialect, a hammam was a toilet or bathroom/bathing area. When con-quering Arabs captured Alexandria in 642 AD, they came

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business

BY TERRY HERMAN


upon the Roman baths; in order to keep the fires burning to heat up the water, they pillaged some 700,000 works from the Ptolemaic Library and burned them. The fires lasted for approximately six months. It was also common for Bedouin sheikhs to have elaborate hammams for their harem.

Roman baths were enormous structures, and often in-cluded elaborate hot and cold pool areas, areas for massage, even libraries and gymnasiums. By comparison, the Islamic

hammams were often smaller and more intimate. The aspect of communal bathing also fronted as a pretext for sexual re-lations; conquering armies also sought the bathing areas as a way to both prepare and recover from battle. In time, how-ever, the basic purpose of the hammam remained as a cen-tral place for bathing in hot water, where a person could go to have their body thoroughly exfoliated, washed and then massaged; patrons would then go and relax in an area to cool down from the heat of the cleansing and bathing experience.

Throughout the ages, heat and water have remained a source of healing and restoration, and has been the funda-mental purpose of spa. Today’s traditional and alternative medical practitioners routinely prescribe treatment courses for their patients that utilize heat and water as a curative for

certain ailments and health conditions. Water is also funda-mental to all major religions, and is part of religious cleansing and purification rituals from sin, transgression and impurity.

Traditional hammam attire• PESTIMALCLOTH. Used as a wrap,

cover or towel; made of cotton• KESE(ALSOKESSA)MITT. Used dry on

dampened skin for deep exfoliation; made of silk• KAZANBOWL. Large water vessel;

made of hammered and decorative silver or copper• TASBOWL. Small water vessel; made of hammered

and decorative silver or copper • BLACKSOAP. Natural vegetable paste containing

black olives, eucalyptus oil and argan oil; it is sometimes soaked in salt and potash; also found in bar form

Hammam ritual The treatment is done in their Vichy Wet Room. It is strongly suggested that guests take advantage of either the steam room or sauna to warm their skin and open their pores. Once in the wet room, I disrobed. My technician Renata fully explained the treatment to me, and then wrapped me in the traditional pestimal cloth. I deeply inhaled a relaxing blend of organic essential oils (lavender, peppermint, star anise and cajaput oil) three times. After this step, I remained standing, and Renata began scooping a traditional small silver Tas bowl into a large

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YOU MAY BE ABLE TO DEVELOP YOUR OWN VERSION

OF A HAMMAM RITUAL.

Vichy shower, photo courtesy of Kohler Co.

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silver Kazan bowl filled with very warm water; she proceeded to pour the warm water over my entire body several times. I was then instructed to lie face up on the wet table, which was also covered with a pestimal (the first pestimal would remain on me throughout the entire treatment).

Renata doused me with additional warm water, and exfo-liated my body using the traditional kese mitt. Although the mitt had a soft, grainy texture, the exfoliation was intense. Yet it did not cause any skin irritation or discomfort; the pressure and

rhythmic strokes of the exfoliation were soothing and similar to a massage (a bonus benefit of this type of body treatment). At one point, Renata directed me to touch my skin, not only to feel how smooth it was, but also to feel how much dead skin debris had accumulated. This is a great way for the guest to interact with the technician, and gives the guest a bet-ter appreciation for treatment aspects. Between each kese exfoliation, the traditional black soap was used to thoroughly cleanse the exfoliated skin. This was followed by another dous-ing of warm water to rinse away the soap and sloughed skin residue; the black soap, which included black olive and euca-lyptus, had the consistency of paste.

After my topside was meticulously exfoliated, cleansed and doused, I turned over to have my backside treated with the same scrupulous attention. Renata gave me one final dousing for good measure. This was followed by a liberal application of a rehydrat-ing body lotion to my entire body. The lotion consisted of grape seed extract, aloe, shea butter, vitamin E and macadamia seed oil. I was then completely covered for the first time throughout the treatment. Renata massaged my shoulders, neck and scalp before washing my hair with a shampoo rich in argan oil. For the final step, she rinsed my face with warm water and massaged it with a face oil rich in vitamin E, jojoba seed oil and chamomile.

The Hammam Ritual revitalized and rehydrated my skin; it felt refined, hydrated, firmer and softer. My hair had a healthy shine to it, and appeared to have more volume. In addition to delivering results, this treatment was also an exciting new experience for me as a guest.

This ritual is rich is history and tradition. It not only con-tinues the traditions of the hammam, but also serves as a reminder of how to embrace the therapeutic and restorative aspects of all things water.

Reflect on the full potential of your spa operation, and take your competition into consideration. Think outside the box! Understand spa history and tradition. Consider new treatment possibilities that are guest-centric. Communicate with your supplier to explore the possibility of adapting products with your operation. Devise a plan and move forward with it! n

Terry Herman is a recognized expert in the spa industry. As a writer and blogger, she covers business, man-agement, operations, customer care, treatments and trends. Herman is also a management consultant and motivational speaker. She serves as group manager for The Spa Buzz LinkedIn group, and is a member of the EXPERIENCE | PREMCHIT Journeys in Retreat to Wellness advisory board. Herman can be reached via e-mail at [email protected].

business|turn to tradition to define your brand

Hammam Ritual, photos courtesy of Kohler Co.

at left: a dousing of cold water can be incorporated into a modified water therapy when working with a limited space


POSITIONING NEW EMPLOYEES FOR SUCCESS!

BY DORI SOUKUP

YOU JUST HIRED A NEW TEAM MEMBER, NOW WHAT? As a spa leader, it is your responsibility to position your new employee for success. That takes time, effort and business tools. This article explains three essential training steps to prepare your new employee for success; enabling them to deliver a great guest experience, generate revenue and maximize their effectiveness!

To position your team and your spa for success, a leader must have training manuals, and implement the following three steps to train new employees to ensure their success.

Step one: orientation trainingIn the corporate world, most new employees attend at least a one day company orientation. This training is designed to introduce the company’s operating guidelines and relation-ship expectations. In the spa industry, I mostly see company orientation happening in resort spas. Most medi spas and day spas skip this important training. Their orientation (in most cases) consists of job shadowing with an existing employee.

There is no system in place or orientation manual, or even an employee handbook to train new hires. This practice is a recipe for failure. It does not set a foundation for success, nor does it make a great impression of your company. Successful companies have two important manuals: A. An orientation booklet B. An employee manual

These documents establish your professionalism and show new employees that you mean business. It puts forth the message that working for your company is not a game. You have structure, systems, values and a clear vision, all of which are important to you as a leader and crucial for your team to follow and practice.

A. The orientation booklet should describe your operat-ing guidelines, policies, procedures, dress code, behavioral expectations, guest experience protocols, training curriculum schedule and other dos and don’ts. New employees should have a clear understanding of what is expected of them after reading your orientation booklet. 4

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B. Your employee manual should offer clarity on topics such as paid time off, harassment policies, employment policies, confidentiality, non-compete, compensation and other essential employee guidelines. The employee manual is important for two reasons: 1. To protect your business. 2. To provide your team with a reference tool.

The employee handbook and orientation booklet are essential to your company. They provide a good founda-tion for new employees, allowing spa leaders to use these documents so they can properly manage, avoid ambiguity and minimize misunderstandings.

These two booklets can be separate or combined. Upon completion of this training, new employees sign off that he/she received it, read it and agree to operate by company guidelines.

Orientation should be conducted on the first day of work for the new hire, and it should take a few hours to cover all the material. It is important to have new employees sign a form confirming that they have received their handbooks. This will help you increase your employment retention rate, and give the employee clarity as to what it means to be on your team and work within your organization.

Step two: technical training For new therapists to deliver a great guest experience and ensure your guest’s satisfaction, it is essential to train them on all your menu items and upgrade options you offer your cli-ents. Keep in mind that no matter how experienced your new employees are, they must go though your technical training!

In some cases, the brands you carry may send their trainer out to train new employees. If not, your department head or anyone else who is qualified to train must do it. Training should cover your unique rituals, procedures, use of profes-sional products, equipment, cleanliness, sanitation, retail range, pricing, etc.

Technical training could take two days or more, de-pending on how many treatments and products you have. The main thing to keep in mind is not to shortcut training.

Shortcutting leads to guest attrition and the lack of consistency in your business.

Having a technical manual from your supplier is great, but it is not enough. As a leader, you must have a thera-pist manual for training purposes. It should outline all pro-tocols, rituals, product usage, guest communication and more … This will help you deliver consistent training and avoid the process of reinventing the wheel every time you hire a new person.

A good practice is to assign a buddy to your new em-ployee until she/he is completely acclimated with all your processes, treatments and equipment.

business|positioning new employees for success!


THE EMPLOYEE HANDBOOK AND ORIENTATION BOOKLET ARE

ESSENTIAL TO YOUR COMPANY. THEY PROVIDE A GOOD FOUNDATION

FOR NEW EMPLOYEES.

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Step three: business skillsBusiness skills training is missing in most spas. Yet, it is one of the most important steps of the new hire process, team training and professional growth.

It is not enough to train on technical knowledge alone. If you are serious about your success, you must have a busi-ness curriculum to train your team on business essentials and profitability.

Here are some of the most important topics to include within your business training manual:

A. Performance expectation and income potential. Give the team clearly defined monthly goals, share the career path they can chart within your company and the income potential they can achieve if they are a high performer.

B. The guest consultation process, and the importance of multiple treatments to assist the guest in achieving and maintaining their desired results. Tapping into series and up-grading is crucial to achieve results and satisfy your guests.

C. Home care recommendations via retail is a major com-ponent of training. Your team must understand how important it is to the guest experience, the success of your business and to them. Teach a recommending system and implement tools to make the process easy and beneficial for all.

D. How to self promote and cross-market. Growth is very possible when the team learns how to self promote and cross-market within the spa. There are many easy strat-egies you can apply so your team is armed and prepared to increase capacity.

E. Guest experience and retention. Nothing is more im-portant than retention. The cost to acquire a new client is very high, and your goal as a leader is to maintain and retain them. Through business training, teach your team how to deliver great memorable experiences to turn your guests into lifetime clients.

Of course, there are many other topics to include within your business manuals and training. For now, I encourage you to get started with creating your manual and plan your training curriculum. Through training and education, every-thing is possible! If you don’t have time to create your own manuals, there are spa manual templates available to help you get started. Establish a great foundation and set your team up for success! n

Dori Soukup is an executive coach, author, professional speaker and the founder of InSPAration Management. She speaks at conventions all over the world and hosts public and pri-vate seminars. Her Spa BizTools and strategies have helped thousands of spa professionals experience expo-nential growth and profits. She can

be reached at [email protected].

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A GOOD PRACTICE IS TO ASSIGN A BUDDY TO YOUR NEW EMPLOYEE UNTIL

SHE/HE IS COMPLETELY ACCLIMATED WITH ALL YOUR PROCESSES,

TREATMENTS AND EQUIPMENT.


business

BY DAVID SUZUKI

ALTHOUGH MANY DIFFERENT TYPES OF TECHNOLOGY have been used historically in skin care, it wasn’t until the early 1990s that microdermabrasion changed our industry forever. Traditional crystal based microdermabrasion was effective, exciting, simple and fashionable. It was fun! Additionally, it allowed for assertive and expeditious results without the supervision of a physician. From the beginning, microderm-abrasion took the world by storm and quickly became the hottest new age defying service available. This exciting new trend brought skin care to the center stage of our culture, sparking an esthetic technology revolution that completely transformed our industry.

Technology revolutionToday’s savvy consumers use intelligent technology in every aspect of their life, and they expect nothing less from their skin therapist. Whether it be the latest innovations in LED, oxygen infusion or microcurrent, they are constantly on the move to find the latest cutting-edge developments that can keep them looking as young as they feel.

By the late 1990s, the demand for crystal free microderm-abrasion systems began to rise. Many were seeking a “cleaner” system without the sandy debris and a lower cost of goods per service, while others were simply seeking a better way to treat all skin types, including sensitive skin. One of the first crystal free ideas was extremely similar to the original crystal version, in that they both worked by way of a closed loop vacuum sys-tem. Rather than aspirating crystals loosely through the system (similar to sand blasting), the new concept incorporated abra-sion crystals embedded into the surface of a small, tubular hand piece. The operator used the crystal embedded hand piece to “sand” the surface of the skin while simultaneously vacuuming up the debris. Although this idea solved the problem of using crystals, the hand pieces were extremely expensive, typically over $500. Since the intensity of the exfoliation process was primarily controlled by the downward pressure that the operator applied to the skin, rather than controlled by parameters of the device, this technology was still not a good solution for sensitive skin.

By 2005, saline based “pressure washer” type systems stumbled onto the market. The concept was very straight-forward and logical; spray saline solution onto the skin while simultaneously blowing it off with an extremely high level of compressed air. The services themselves showed a small improvement to the skin; however, they were absolutely vio-lent. Because the device did not come with a closed loop vacuum system, the intensity of the hurricane like air blew the used saline and exfoliated stratum corneum all over the client and service room! What was interesting about the service, however, is that the fluid left the skin hydrated and allowed it to be performed on all skin types.

Enter new technology in microdermabrasionThis microdermabrasion is the latest forward thinking concept in exfoliation that combines and builds from many of the histori-cal concepts while incorporating a new array of innovations. It has quickly become the most impressive exfoliation technol-ogy to enter our market since the early 1990s. The additional liquid incorporated with a dry microdermabrasion utilizes a traditional closed loop vacuum system that is free from cross contamination, allowing for all exfoliated skin and unused flu-ids to be hygienically vacuumed away. Rather than a tubular hand piece encrusted with crystals, it incorporates a smooth plastic shield that comes in contact with the skin, creating a gentle application for all skin types. Once the vacuum loop is closed (when it comes in contact with the skin), the skin is gently lifted into the mouth of the hand piece. There it comes in contact with a flat diamond encrusted exfoliation disk. Unlike the original crystal free versions of microdermabrasion, the operator can precisely control the abrasion depth by the disc selection (typically from 80 grit to 400 grit), along with vacuum aspiration control. With this technology, abrasion has nothing to do with the physical downward pressure of the operator. During a wet/dry microdermabrasion application, the opera-tor will use an array of topically applied products along with

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the device, each designed to address specific objectives. This part of the equation is key. The fluids themselves help create a smoother ap-plication, and they typically contain a myriad of key ingredients to cool the skin, mitigate red-ness and irritation, and of course target spe-cific skin concerns. Fluid formulations that can be used with such devices are used for acne, hydrating, brightening and some variations of

foam chemical peels. All abraded skin and used fluids are vacuumed away hygienically, leaving the skin smooth and hydrated. No sand in the ears, overly exfoliated skin, redness or irritation. Only beautiful skin!

One size fits all?One of the key factors in the success of traditional crystal microdermabrasion was its assertive nature. A downfall of this characteristic is that it was very much a one size fits all type of service, with very little variation of intensity. Because of this lack of control, the service could only be performed once every two to three weeks, and was simply not applicable to all skin types. While wet/dry microdermabrasion can be equally assertive, the broad array of abrasive discs and topically applied fluid options allow complete and precise control, such that the services could be performed weekly if desired, on all skin types. With wet/dry micro-dermabrasion, it is typical to perform multiple passes, with each pass using a different abrasion intensity and topically applied fluid. The tips and fluids can be changed and applied in seconds, al-lowing for three or four passes to be completed in less than five or six minutes. This exacting lay-

ered approach allows the skin therapist to zero in on the details necessary to meet each client’s unique objectives, all while keeping the skin in a perfectly calm and hydrated state.

Accent service or stand alone?There is no doubt that this new form of microderm-abrasion meets the criterion of a “stand alone” service, as the results are absolutely phenomenal. At the same time, this technology remains an es-sential base service to prepare the skin for other layered technology services. Monthly services are suggested for optimal maintenance.

Cost of goodsThe cost of goods is something that all successful businesses watch closely, and for good reason. It ultimately determines your profit margin, as well as the marketability of a service or prod-uct. In short, if the cost of good is too high, the product or service will not sell, regardless of how effective or intriguing it is. Historically, forms of microdermabrasion have ranged from $2.50 per service to about $5.00 per service. This service can be as low as $0.35 per treatment.

Evolution is what it is—perpetual. The new-est trend in microdermabrasion is unlikely to be the last form of successful exfoliation that the world will see. At the same time, it has all of the intelligent forward thinking attributes and details to ensure that it will be a mainstay in our industry for decades to come. If you want to keep your business on the cutting-edge, are in the market for a new microdermabrasion device or are a new esthetician starting your business, this aqueous microdermabrasion should be the first technol-ogy on your shopping list. n

David Suzuki, president of Bio-Therapeutic, Inc., has been an active licensed member of the es-thetics industry for more than 18 years. He is an authority on technology and regulatory issues, including FDA submis-sion and acquisition. Suzuki serves as an ad-visor to institutions and state boards, writes for numerous industry pub-lications and journals and conducts educational seminars and classes. Email him at [email protected] or visit www.bio-therapeutic.com.

business|customized services for every skin type with microdermabrasion

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AWARD DEADLINE!The deadline to apply for the next annual Gerson Award is August 31, 2013. The winner will be chosen by an NCEA committee and awarded by Joel Gerson himself at the National Esthetic Teacher Training (NETT) pre-

congress event being held prior to The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa in Philadelphia, PA on Saturday, October 26, 2013. Each applicant must be currently employed as an esthetics teacher and demonstrate excellence in providing esthetic education. www.ncea.tv 201.670.4100

PROFESSIONAL RESOURCESallie Deitz, the education director of Bio-Therapeutic and author of numerous industry textbooks and skin care books, recently released Skin Care Practices and Clinical Protocols, a critical resource to help expand skin care professionals’ knowledge and technical skills. The text includes interviews with professionals spanning four decades of esthetic education and experiences in a variety of settings ranging from travel and tourism, salons, spas and medical offices. Skin Care Practices and Clinical Protocols serves as a valuable working resource in the classroom, treatment room and meeting room.www.bio-therapeutic.com800.971.6438

LICENSING SUPPORT Results from the first ever national poll by The Professional Beauty Association, conducted in December of 2012, show that 94 percent of general election voters from across the U.S. overwhelmingly supported the required licensing of beauty professionals. The voters feel that these licenses protect the public and improve both quality and safety in the beauty industry. For more information about how licensing protects consumers and professionals alike, the potential risks associated with the deregulation of the cosmetology industry, and how the Professional Beauty Association is spearheading efforts to stop deregulation legislation across the U.S., visit www.probeauty.org/iam.

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SHARING THE POWER OF TOUCHAssociated Bodywork & Massage Professionals (ABMP) is celebrating its award-winning, nineteenth annual EveryBody Deserves a Massage Week from Sunday, July 14 through Saturday, July 20. ABMP members nationwide are invited to hold grassroots events in their communities, including offering massage to those who may not already experience massage therapy. The national event is designed to promote massage therapists as they benefit their communities. ABMP members can access customizable materials for the event online. A deposit is required and the order deadline is July 1.www.abmp.com 877.208.7546

SALON AND SPA PRESENCEReports show that over 80 million men and women in the U.S. are suffering from hereditary hair loss. The hair loss industry is a $3.5 billion market and continues to increase as the population ages, according to HairMax®. With the growing demand for a safe and effective non-surgical treatment, salons and spas are looking for a real solution to offer their clients. Offering the HairMax Hair Growth System at your salon or spa is a tremendous opportunity to provide your clients with a proven treatment and increase profits. The HairMax Hair Growth System also includes a comprehensive line of hair care products, treatments and supplements formulated with ingredients known to support hair growth and complement the HairMax LaserComb treatment.www.HairMaxSalons.com888.841.2535

YEARLY EVENTA Natural Difference Skincare™ recently held their annual conference at the prestigious Rittenhouse Hotel in Rittenhouse

Square, Philadelphia, PA. Each year A.N.D. professionals gather for an all day conference to exchange ideas and network. Four awards for top product sales were given out this year to Valentina Mircea, Kayla Johnson, Deborah Frazier and Amanda Brohill. www.anaturaldifference.com 888.568.3150

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NEW REVELATIONMassage Envy Spa®, in conjunction with the Touch Research Institute at the University of Miami School of Medicine, recently announced the results of a new study that revealed that moderate pressure massage therapy can decrease pain for rheumatoid arthritis patients. Over the last eight years, Massage Envy has donated more than $150,000 to support research related to massage therapy. The findings will help to further educate massage therapists, massage clients and the public on the benefits of massage.www.massageenvy.comwww6.miami.edu/touch-research

BUILD A BETTER WEBSITE InSPAration Management introduces Your Spa Website Working for YOU! The new audio CD is created to help spa leaders plan an effective website designed to attract visitors, build their trust and turn them into clients.The new CD outlines a step-by-step plan with a map to help spa leaders with essential structure, navigation, design and copy guidelines. All of these tools will attract visitors, prolong their stay and generate revenue. The CD also includes strategies to capture visitors’ information and convert them into prospects, buyers and clients. It is filled with tips on how to truly develop a website that will work for you 24/7.www.insparationmanagement.com386.226.2550

MODERN BATHHOUSE EXCLUSIVERed Square Spa in Chicago, IL offers a unique experience by combining elements of a traditional Russian-style bathhouse

with modern amenities, including the recent addition of Repêchage® signature treatments and products. “Clients want to leave the spa noticing a difference in their skin and the Repêchage products deliver,” says owner Margarita

Vizcarra of choosing to work with the line. “The treatments have the perfect formulations! And not only is the skin care line fantastic, but Lydia Sarfati is a pleasure to work with as she provides knowledge and support, making it easy for us to be successful.” www.repechage.com800.248.SKIN

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drink six to eight glasses of pure water a day, but listen to your body and moni-tor your activity level to determine when you are in need of more replenishment from fluids.

Water is a natural hydrator, cleanser and diuretic, working to move excess so-dium levels through the kidneys and out of the system, lessening water retention. Add organic lemon to water to boost the benefits of assisting the lymph, liver and kidney functions. Always have plenty of pure water available at your spa, and en-courage clients to sip it before, during and after treatments, as this will assist with the elimination of toxins.

Food for thoughtConsider the common saying: “We are what we eat.” So let’s eat herbs and foods that nourish and heal our bodies!

Fruits and vegetables contain a lot of water; in addition, they contain a rich amount of bioflavonoids and vitamin C, which help to improve vascular integri-ty and strengthen collagen formation. The fruits and vegetables that contain the highest content of bioflavonoids are those that are orange, yellow, red, purple, blue and dark green. Use fruit juices sparingly or add to vegetable juices to sweeten slightly.

THE GREEN FLUID

RETENTION ELIMINATOR

1 small bunch organic parsley, rinsed

2 stalks organic celery, rinsed

1 organic fuji apple, washed

½ organic lemon, peeled

Push these ingredients through a juic-er and pour into a glass. This is a won-derful anti-edema tonic to offer clients at your spa.

WATER RETENTION, ALSO

known as edema, is an abnormal accu-mulation of fluid found in the spaces be-tween and within our body cavities. Fluid is always moving in and out of cells, be-tween the cells, tissue spaces, blood and tissues in a healthy body.

Water retention can be confined to the lower legs and ankles; or it can be generalized, affecting the whole body. Localized water retention in the lower extremities is often the result of poor venous return. This means the blood is pumped to the extremities by the heart, but the body does not do an efficient job of moving it from the extremities back to the heart. Think about your last flight that lasted five hours or more, and how you could not get your feet back into your shoes. That is water retention due to poor venous return.

Lifestyle induced causes of water retention include standing or sitting all day, poor breathing habits, lack of movement, inadequate fluid intake and poor food choices. A factor that greatly contributes to edema is poor capillary structure, known as poor vascular integ-rity. If the walls of the capillaries are not strong and resilient, they become more permeable. One sign of poor vascular integrity is easy bruising. Do you ever notice the sudden appearance of bruises on your skin and you don’t know where they came from? That is easy bruising.

Fountain of youthWater is your best friend! The less water the body receives, the more it will fight to hold onto every drop it consumes. It shifts into survival mode, thinking that it will need to retain a back stock in case of a drought. We have all been told to

Organic dandelion greens, cucum-bers, celery, parsley, kale, tomatoes and cabbage are all great ingredients to make a “detox” salad. Add a squeeze of or-ganic lemon juice and a spritz of olive oil.

DANDELION SHOOTER

Push 1 bunch of rinsed organic dandelion greens through a juicer. Pour one ounce of juice in a glass and top with a squeeze of lemon or lime juice. Store the remaining juice in a glass jar to enjoy later.

Dandelion is a bitter tonic, but it’s an effective diuretic that stimulates liver function, reduces swelling and improves digestion. One daily shot of this is plenty!

A balanced diet of protein, car-bohydrates and good fats (such as es-sential fatty acids) is the foundation of good health, wellness and beauty.

As spa professionals, we can offer effective beauty and wellness services and products to our clients and guests. Let’s go the extra mile by educating them on the best health remedies and eating habits to enhance the benefits and per-formance of our treatments and home care recommendations. n

Nina Curtis is principal of Curtis Communi cations, Nina Curtis & Associates and the Nile Institute. Curtis received her MBA from Pepperdine University and consults for leading companies in the personal care industry. With more than 20 years of experience, she holds certifications in aromatherapy, reflexology, acupressure and color light therapy. Curtis has been instrumental in the development of training programs for salons and spas nationwide.

by Nina Curtis

organic & wellness weighing in on water retention


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BY ANNE C. WILLIS

healing waters and harmonic balanceWE HAVE ALL FELT THE RHYTHMIC CYCLES of our heartbeat and breathing, but it is very difficult to feel the movement of fluids within our skin. The circulation of extracellular fluids has its own rhythmic motion, independent of our heartbeat and breath, moving in and out of cells, filling the environment with nutrients. This natural movement is called a circadian rhythm, a roughly 24-hour cycle in the physiological pro-cesses of all living beings. Circadian rhythms are generated from within the cell or tissue, although they can be modulated by external cues such as sunlight, temperature and pressure.

Scientific studies show that imbalances in this system stem from survival issues, and when the skin/body experiences stress, it reacts ac-cording to its survival instincts. Releasing the stress within the emotional body of skin by using the harmonic energies of waters can improve internal stability. Activating the energy within the connective tissue restores the natural flow of energy to re-establish skin’s overall rejuvena-tion, strength and tone. In addition, cells react differently to the tonicity of their environment based on whether or not there is movement and regulation. Skin cells function best in hypotonic environments when they are in a turgid (normal

fullness) state. The cell wall prevents the cell from bursting, and the water pressure provides the rigidity necessary for structural support. In a hypertonic solution, skin cells will shrivel and lose function, but will not lose shape because

of the cell wall. Instead, they shrink away from the cell wall. The skin will appear deflated and become more vulnerable to free radical damage. In order to generate this type of cellular support and tonicity, one must have passive motion.

There are several physiological mechanisms in which passive motion may be clinically use-ful. This can be achieved by the application of topical hydrotherapy and the consumption of herbal infusions. Through these applications, the skin will experience an improvement to the

CALENDULA IS KNOWN FOR IT’S STRONG ANTISEPTIC EFFECT AND WOUND CARE PROPERTIES. THE JOYOUS PETALS CONTAIN COMPLEX POLYSACCHARIDES WITH IMMUNOSTIMULANT PROPERTIES.


MAKING AN INFUSION IS

EASY TO DO. JUST PLACE ONE

TABLESPOON OF HERBS IN A CUP AND ADD

HEATED WATER.

organic & wellness|healing waters and harmonic balance

quality of repair, the rate of repair, the drain-age of edema following tissue damage and the reduction of inflammation. Topically, compres-sion of infused waters restores functionality and generates movement within the living space of skin, allowing for proper regulation.

Energizing watersThe Asians believe that in order to support the physiological mechanisms, fluids in the body must keep moving in the body. Fluids dissolve waste, move damaged debris to be processed and recycled and aid in the delivery of valuable nutrients. Fluid supports cell structure and is a carrier of necessary enzymes and nutrients. The movement of fluids can be achieved in-ternally by consuming herbal infusions at least three times a day. Examples of herbs to infuse for consumption include roses, peppermint

and red raspberry leaf. Roses are a wonderful source of vitamin C and have anti-inflammatory benefits. Peppermint leaves soothe indigestion and cool heated bodies. Red raspberry aids in the purification of blood and skin. The herbs used in infusions will modulate overly func-tioning systems or energize more sedentary systems, bringing homeostasis to the internal environment. Making an infusion is easy to do. Just place one tablespoon of herbs in a cup and add heated water. Allow the herbs to infuse for up to five minutes. Then strain the herbs and offer the infusion to your guests to sip their way to wellness.

In addition to consuming infusions, it is advisable to bathe with these solutions daily in order to regulate functionality. Topical ap-plication and compression of herbal infusions will energize the circadian rhythm of skin’s living space, allowing for proper detoxification of cells and absorption of valuable nutrients. Various herbs can be used topically, depending on the condition you are addressing. Chickweed is a wonderful herb for soothing itchiness and in-flammation of the skin, especially the eyes. It is rich in fatty acids and vitamins A, B and C, thus adding valuable nutrients to the skin. Calendula is known for it’s strong antiseptic effect and wound care properties. The joyous petals con-tain complex polysaccharides with immunos-timulant properties.

Besides energizing water with herbs, salts have many uses and valuable benefits. Good quality Himalayan pink and Dead Sea salts dis-solved in water and compressed into the skin activate lymphatic stagnation, assist in detoxi-fication and aid in mineralization of the waters.

Infusing waters with positive affirmations is another level of therapy used to harmonize the frequency that can affect circadian rhythms. Masaru Emoto, A.M.P., is a scientific researcher who has performed extensive research of water around the planet. He has gained worldwide acclaim through his groundbreaking research and discoveries, and professes that water is deeply connected to our individual and collective consciousness.

Masaru Emoto was born in Yokohama in July of 1943. In 1986, he established the IHM Corporation in Tokyo. In October of 1992, he received certifi-cation from the Open International University as a doctor of alternative medicine.

Subsequently, Dr. Emoto was introduced to the concept of micro cluster water in the U.S.,

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and magnetic resonance analysis technology. He has taught us that by exposing water to a particular word or piece of music, freezing it and photographing the ice crystals formed, beautiful words and music become beautiful crystals; on the other hand, malformed and misshapen crystals come from mean-spirited, negative words. The significance is that the adult human body is approximately 70 percent water, and infant bodies are about 90 percent water. Positive, compas-sionate words comfort and heal; negative words and insults hurt. Until recently, we knew this only because we could feel it. Now we can actually see it. Thanks to the work of Dr. Emoto, we can look to water and its frozen crystals to con-firm the healing power of beautiful music, positive thinking, uplifting speech and prayer.

As the world continues to grow more complicated all the time, there is a need for spa therapies to transform into a healing oasis that includes nature and all she holds true. Whether it is serving herbal infusions to lower anxiety or bathing the feet to reduce mental chatter, clients can truly benefit from healing waters.

Science continues to demonstrate that our focus needs to be less on the physicality of skin and more on supporting functionality. Monitoring its internal conditions and respond-ing appropriately when these conditions deviate from their optimal state can achieve harmonizing balance within the skin. Whether working with herbs, salts or positive affirma-tions, energizing your treatment water will open a whole new world of therapy that is fascinating to discover. n

Anne C. Willis, a licensed esthetician and worldwide leader in holistic and medical skin therapies, is the founder of De la Terre Skincare. She is an accredited skin care instructor and the director of Oncology Skin Therapeutics™, bringing more than 30 years of experience and knowledge to the new generation of skin therapists. Willis

is a contributor to The Esthetician’s Guide to Working With Physicians, and has been featured in numerous publications. For more information, contact her at [email protected] or visit www.delaterreskincare.com.

organic & wellness


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WHETHER WORKING WITH HERBS, SALTS OR POSITIVE AFFIRMATIONS,

ENERGIZING YOUR TREATMENT WATER WILL OPEN A WHOLE

NEW WORLD OF THERAPY THAT IS FASCINATING TO DISCOVER.


BY JUDITH CULP

disinfectionMORE ECO-FRIENDLY INFECTION CONTROL

IN THE BEAUTY INDUSTRY, PRE-venting cross-contamination is the back-bone of any successful operation. It is mandated by state rules and CDC guide-lines. These regulations are a good thing because they serve to keep our clients healthy. In today’s world, every client expects us to routinely practice infec-tion control. The only downside with infection control is that the majority of products available are corrosive, toxic and dangerous to skin, eyes and cloth-ing, to say nothing about their potential environmental impact.

Usage instructions for these prod-ucts requires that personal protective equipment be used when mixing and handling, but this is often overlooked. The manufacturer’s directions typically require that the surface be kept wet for 10 minutes, then rinsed thoroughly. With some surfaces this can be a challenge,

and 10 minutes is a long time when an-other client is waiting for their service. We have all seen situations where the process was abbreviated, and both the technician and client were put at height-ened risk. Disinfectants that work faster are generally more corrosive, and that is not a good tradeoff. Autoclaves are less harsh, but they take longer. And we cannot forget that everything we use for cleaning in our facilities, clinics and spas must be EPA registered. We can only use cleaning products that bear the EPA registered mark.

What if there was an alternative for infection control out there that was more environmentally friendly? It would need to do the job quickly. It could not be harmful to touch, hazardous to use or emit nasty vapors. It should require no rinsing, but it should be EPA registered. It must be cost effective to use, and safe

to use on our electronic equipment with-out damaging the plastic components or displays. It should be environmentally friendly. The exciting news is that such products do exist.

The discovery started well over half a century ago in a joint venture by Dow and Corning to provide a new class of materials for the military. The research-ers turned to something called “orga-nofunctional silanes,” which are the result of combining organic and silicon chemistry. This combined chemistry fa-cilitates bonding, so the products can be used as protectants in diverse ap-plications. In simpler terms, this tech-nology uses positive ionic bonding to adhere itself to a surface, or for compo-nents to adhere more tightly together.

The science has been well researched, documented and applied for over 50 years. It has been used extensively in the

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semi-conductor industry, and is a key reason our microchips work so well. It is used in the garment industry to repel microbes and keep the garment fresh. In fact it is used in an abundance of in-dustries and manufactured products, from rubber to glass. The applications seem endless.

So how does it work for our in-dustry? It is either sprayed or wiped on and allowed to dry, which happens very quickly. Once dry, the product has bonded to the surface it was applied to. Now it is like a barrier of positive ionic swords or an electro-magnetic field that attracts microbes and destroys them upon contact. Because this is a physical destruction, there is no risk of microbial mutation. The process doesn’t dilute the barrier in any way, so it con-tinues protection undiminished. This is completely different from spraying a surface with a disinfectant, in that as soon as it is dry, it can immediately be contaminated again. The physical bar-rier keeps on killing microbes.

There are a number of formulators out there that utilize the same core tech-nology, but there are many variations be-tween them. This technology puts down a barrier that can effectively continue its protection and destruction capabili-ties for a month or more. A single sur-face can be treated, or an entire facility. Anything that is treated attracts and de-stroys microbes. Variations on products have been created to meet the diverse needs of hugely varying industries in-terested in using the technology. Some products are intended specifically for sensitive areas (e.g., a place where raw food is prepared). There are cleaning/disinfecting products, and then there are products designed to be used on a pre-cleaned surface to form a long term result. There are products for use around electronics like telephones, computer keyboards and mice, which could also be used to protect equipment or disin-fect tools. Some of the products can be safely applied to all color fast surfaces, so literally every area within a facility could become a microbe destroyer.

When I got these products into my own clinic, I disinfected and protected all the surfaces clients might touch, be-ginning with the front door. I disinfected door knobs, the reception counter, tele-phones, computers and desk tops. After vacuuming, I lightly misted the reception area, including the seating and arm-rests—all the places that clients touch with their hands. In the restroom, the sinks, counters, faucets, toilet levers and seats all got a coat of antimicrobial spray.

The treatment tables in facial rooms were stripped, and then counters and all other commonly touched surfaces were sprayed. The dispensary area got the same treatment. While we contin-ued with daily cleaning, I had peace of mind, knowing I had made my spa safer for my clients and staff. To take it a step further, I could have had the facility pro-fessionally sprayed. This is being done in some medical facilities, fitness centers, hot yoga centers and spas. Because of the attraction of microbes to the antimi-crobial, it actually acts as an air filter sys-tem, minimizing buildup of unpleasant odors. Hand sanitizer is sprayed on clean hands and continues to work through 10 hand washings. Since the hand sanitizer is not alcohol based and does not contain harsh chemicals, it is far kinder to hands (and safer) than those containing alcohol (which is flammable) or Triclosan, which is under review by the FDA.

Although the risks associated with the use of these harsh chemicals sur-round us, we don’t often think about

them. This point is brought home by a recent news story about a little girl in Portland, OR who was in the hospital recovering from cancer. Staff had used olive oil to remove the girl’s bandages because of its gentleness (keep in mind that oils are flammable). Some of the oil evidently got onto her shirt, so she attempted to remove it with an alcohol based hand sanitizer. In the process, static electricity was discharged and her shirt caught on fire. The girl ended up with second and third degree burns on more than 18 percent of her body.

This horror story was a rare incident, but it shows the dark side of using these harsh, flammable products—which do not even work very well!

Maybe now is the time to employ a greener method of microbe control that will make our work spaces safer. Look for products that are EPA registered, and consider making your facility a cleaner place that will destroy microbes in a long-lasting, non-toxic, non-corrosive and non-leaching manner. Are they ac-ceptable by your state? Do they meet the definitions of high and low level dis-infectants? Are they following the defi-nition of disinfection, a process? Are they EPA registered?

The key is to create a sanitary and clean environment for your guests. Prac-titoners and owners alike should all have a clear and concise understanding of the products and solutions that are be-ing used within the spa business. n

Judith Culp is an NCEA certified CIDESCO Diplomat. She is a contributing editor for Mil ady’s Standard Esthetics: Ad vanced. Culp is also a teacher

and the president of the NW Institute of Esthetics, which offers basic and advanced skin care training. Contact her through www.nwinstitute.estheticsnw.com or via email at [email protected].

organic & wellness

CONSIDER MAKING YOUR FACILITY A CLEANER PLACE

THAT WILL DESTROY MICROBES IN A LONG-LASTING,

NON-TOXIC, NON-CORROSIVE AND NON-

LEACHING MANNER.


organic & wellness

THE WALDORF ASTORIA SPA AT THE BOULDERS,

SCOTTSDALE, AZ

THE BOULDERS, A WALDORF ASTORIA Resort, is nothing short of a desert hideaway. Located in Scottsdale, AZ, it has 160 guest casitas, 61 villas, seven restaurants, two championship golf courses, eight tennis courts and a 33,000 square-foot spa, which was once known as Golden Door Spa. Since January 1st of 2013, it has been called the Waldorf Astoria Spa.

The Waldorf Astoria Spa at The Boulders takes on a new meaning with eclectic menu options, in-cluding the astrological soul reading, which allows guests to gain insight into the story of their soul’s journey through the astrological chart, calculated by the spa guest’s date, time and place of birth.

The service’s namesake, the soul, is a person’s in-dividual energy. The astrological soul readings are done by Tom McMullan, an astrological consultant.

The spa also uses the elements of feng shui, giving the entire place a Zen-like ambiance. In addition, the property has stayed true to its Native American roots in an effort to combine both parts to make a unified whole.

There is a labyrinth that can be enjoyed by all guests. Its setting throughout the spa also lends itself to relaxation. It includes places for medita-tion, a circular tea room and a 5,280 square-foot organic garden, with an outdoor kitchen that allows for organic cooking classes and al fresco dining.

SONORAN ENERGY TO HEAL THE

BODY, MIND AND SOUL


BY RITA COOK

The design elements for the expansive gar-den include naturally flowing water, a reflection pond and two outdoor dining areas; including an elevated dining area with teak furnishings amidst the raised planter boxes and a chef’s table at the outdoor kitchen. The eight elevated planter boxes grow seasonal organic vegetables such as lettuce, carrots, celery and heirloom toma-toes, along with a variety of herbs and edible flowers. The Sonoran desert planter boxes grow maize, chilis, hackberry, Sonoran eggplant and other desert root vegetables, while prickly pear cacti provide fruit offerings for dessert. The pe-rimeter walls of the garden are dedicated to a

fragrant orchard of citrus trees with grapefruits, oranges, lemons and limes, as well as a “cock-tail” citrus tree. Kumquats, a mission fig tree and grapes also adorn the perimeter walls of the garden. According to The Boulders’ managing director, Michael Hoffmann, the reason for the garden is simple.

“It’s the pure quality of the ingredients and fla-vor across the board,” he explains. “The garden is an opportunity to show how organic produce can be cultivated in a desert environment, and how it impacts not only taste but also our chefs’ creativity, as they draw inspiration from the abun-dance of product in their own backyard.” 4

A SHAMANIC CEREMONIALIST HEALER EXPERIENCE IS ALSO A TREATMENT ON THE SPA MENU, COMBINING NATURAL REGIONAL INGREDIENTS WITH NATIVE AMERICAN TRADITIONS.labyrinth


The organic garden yields an abundance of produce for the resort’s restaurants, but also provides creative organic dining menus for out-door events. Wedding receptions/private din-ners at the resort’s organic garden are a unique

outdoor venue for an elegant, star-filled recep-tion. Some of the menu selections include the California Garden, Sonoran Highlands Desert, Spa Garden and Southwestern Desert.

The garden also inspired the organic, boul-der-shaped soaps that were created exclusively for The Boulders. The soap engages the senses of touch, smell and sight to bring The Boulders’

sense of place to the bath. Designed to resemble the ancient boulders or rocks that are the resort’s namesake, the soaps are a generous 3.5 oz., rather than the typical 1 oz. size of hotel soaps. These rich soaps provide a lush, creamy lather.

One standout treatment at Waldorf Astoria Spa at The Boulders is the 50-minute acupunc-ture service. Thin needles are inserted into spe-cific points along the meridians to enhance cir-culation and help direct chi to the most healing and reparative places inside the body.

A shamanic ceremonialist healer experience is another treatment on the spa menu, com-

organic & wellness|sonoran energy to heal the body, mind and soul

PULSORS ARE SPECIAL HEALING TOOLS COMPRISED OF TINY CRYSTALS THAT STORE AND DISCHARGE ENERGY AT

SPECIFIC FREQUENCIES. THE SESSION ASSISTS THE BODY IN STABILIZING AND HARMONIZING ITS OWN ENERGY FIELDS.

photos courtesy of Waldorf Astoria Spa at The Boulders


bining natural regional ingredients with Native American traditions. The shaman, Ms. Razel Wolf, was trained in the Twisted Hair Medicine Path (a lineage path) for nearly 25 years, and is a longtime student and practitioner as a “shamanic ceremo-nialist,” noting that the Twisted Hair paradigm, “shamanic,” relates to a person who is aligned with the five worlds of Grandmother Earth: the mineral, plant, animal, human and ancestor.

Guests can choose the Energy Field Balan cing with pulsors. This is a 60-minute relaxation session that allows the body to rebalance through the use of pulsor energy triangles, which are placed in different configurations throughout the body. Pulsors are special healing tools comprised of tiny crystals that store and discharge energy at spe-cific frequencies. The session assists the body in stabilizing and harmonizing its own energy fields.

The Talking Tree Reading is about the uni-verse speaking in a language of symbols. This

60-minute reading uses the Twenty Powers Talking Trees runes (an ancient alphabet in which each rune has its own magical significance). The insights from this reading align spa guests with the world, creating balance, beauty and power in individual lives.

A trip to the spa at The Boulders offers so much, from soul work and organic products to a gentle massage to balance the body, mind and soul. n

For more information, visit www.TheBoulders.com.

Rita Cook is a freelance editor and writer who regularly visits spas around the world. She has published seven books and authored more than 1,500 articles. Cook writes for The Dallas Morning News, Celeb Life, Focus Daily News, Four Seasons Hotel Magazine and Green Source DFW, to name a few.

spa garden

A BREATH OF FRESH AIRPotty Mouth from Poo~Pourri™ is a sweet treat your guests are sure to grab from your retail lineup as they check out. The all

natural, refreshing breath mist eliminates embarrassing odor, says the company. The Citrus Mint, Peppermint and Vanilla Mint blends all allow your clients to end their experience at your spa with a breath

freshener that forgoes potentially harmful chemicals and alcohol based aftertaste! www.poopourri.com 972.818.8200


TIGHT AND TONEDThe Contour Body Moisturizer With Marine Collagen from Blavia Skincare is a lightweight lotion with an exclusive base of marine collagen that promotes the natural production of collagen for a firmer, healthier look. The formula is reinforced with powerful antioxidants and vitamins to stimulate cell renewal, neutralize free radicals and preserve skin’s natural barrier, says the company. The result is radiant, youthful skin.www.blaviaskincare.com857.498.0309

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SLOVE THYSELFThe new bioactive mybody™ skin care line is proven to stimulate the body’s own reparative process for visibly youthful skin from head to toe, says the company. The effective clinical skin care formulations of mybody combine the latest skin technologies with select ingredients to reawaken the skin’s own youthful processes. Each targeted skin care system works to reprogram the skin from within while fighting unwanted skin conditions that negatively affect overall balance and well-being. www.lovemybody.com877.423.1314

MINTY FRESH SCRUBThe Cucumber Mint Sugar Scrub from Éminence Organic Skin Care is an invigorating body scrub for all skin types, says the company. Raw sugar cane and skin revitalizing cucumber provide natural exfoliation. An aromatic blend of mint, basil, dill and comfrey purify and impart antioxidants while sweet almond oil drenches the skin in hydration. The skin is left silky and smooth with a dewy finish that feels irresistible to the touch!www.eminenceorganics.com888.747.6342


MAJOR MOISTURE Offer your clients the ultimate in skin hydration with the Whipped Shea Butter With Olive Leaf from Evan Healy™.The fresh infusion of olive leaf and rose petal in olive oil,Madagascar vanilla in coconut oil and calendula blossoms in sunflower oil make the Whipped Shea Butter an excellent source of essential fatty acids, vital phyto-nutrients and antioxidants, says the company.www.evanhealy.com888.335.0190

DRINK UP!The Oligomer® Drink Dietary Supplement by Phytomer gives the body a mineral boost that promotes relaxation, balance and well-being, says the company.The portable drink solution offers all the re-mineralizing properties of seawater to restore trace element levels and strengthen the body. Oligomer is a sodium-reduced seawater concentrate containing all of the active components of the sea, notably 104 trace elements essential to cellular balance and vitality. Other key ingredients in the drink supplement include marine calcium and marine magnesium.www.phytomerusa.com 800.227.8051

MORE NEWS

ECOFRIENDLY SKIN AND SPA PRODUCTS AND THERAPIES

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CUSTOMIZABLE COLLECTION The exquisite blends of Gypsy Juice contain only 100 percent certified organic cold pressed, unrefined oils, butters and botanicals, says the company. Each Gypsy Juice product is hand blended to order, with ingredients customized to skin type and needs. The collection of five products was created to provide skin with all the minerals, nutrients, fatty acids and antioxidants required for optimal skin health. www.gypsyjuice.me

GET THAT GLOW BACK!The healthy and luxurious emollient Rejuvenating Green Tea Hair & Body

Oil from Yamerra works to return skin and hair to its naturally glowing state, says the company. It is enriched with natural grapeseed, avocado and sunflower oils to moisturize and strengthen hair.

A hint of rosemary, lavender and sage make it extra refreshing and produce luxuriously soft, lightly scented skin and hair. www.yamerrastore.com646.256.6944


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ENERGIZING RENEWALREBOOTizer® is a 100 percent natural new generation of antioxidant support to boost the body’s natural free radical defense system, allowing it to function more efficiently and effectively.REBOOTizer is helpful when taken after exercise, a heavy meal (aids in digestion),alcohol consumption (helps with hangovers), excessive sun, smoke exposure or after flying, says the company.REBOOTizer is made with seven all natural super plant and fruit extracts, including dandelion, licorice, angelica, artichoke, lemon, lemon balm and acerola.www.rebootizer.com888.732.6685

MEDITERRANEAN MAGICTreat your clients to a Mediterranean-inspired spa experience at home with a natural body cream formulated with certified organic extra virgin olive oil, jojoba oil and aloe vera. The Body Cream from Yasou Natural Organic Skin Care promotes skin firming and moisturizing benefits, says the company. Essential oils of cypress, lavender and mandarin produce a pleasing aroma. www.yasouskincare.com630.956.4163

SOOTHE AND PROTECTThe Ultra Sensitive Crème by Gaelle Organic® is formulated with colostrum and edelweiss to calm and restore sensitive skin. Colostrum is a rich, natural source of immune and anti-aging factors; it can reduce redness and calm reactive skin, says the company. Edelweiss contains strong antioxidants, and gently soothes and protects delicate skin. The Ultra Sensitive Crème can be used day and night around the eyes, face and décolleté to simplify one’s beauty routine and restore the skin’s natural radiance.www.gaelleorganic.com805.640.5286

SEA GEMPhytocéane introduces the AQUASAPHIR Essential Renewal Cream, a high-precision formula designed to reduce the signs of aging. The innovative microalgae extract works within the skin, acting oninflammatory molecules to slow down the formation of wrinkles and the loss of skin elasticity, says the company. This formulation offers a creamy, melt-away texture and a fresh, floral and aquatic scent. www.phytoceaneusa.com 877.623.2620


a makeup department retail color calendar

SPECIAL EVENT PLANNING IS A great opportunity for makeup artists to grow their color business. It is fun, eco-nomical and effective. There are numer-ous occasions that make great themes for events. They can take many forms, from an elaborate annual anniversary or client appreciation event to a small new product introduction with a point of purchase display. The best way to get started is to set up your plans with an annual calendar.

Creating a marketing calendar allows you to introduce all aspects of your color line. Cross merchandise your promotional themes with your skin care line and ser-vices. Think of each month of the year as a chapter in a good book. Build a story.

Entice clients to come in each sea-son to learn about the latest color and makeup trends. Give clients a chance to expand their cosmetic color wardrobe. Con sistent, ongoing skin care and color analysis leads to real results in beautiful skin and develops customer loyalty.

Define your quarterly calendar and themes first. Next, segment the calen-dar by month.

The first quarter theme may be “New Year, New You.” January can focus on the face, and you can use the tagline: “Start the year with a great foundation.” February might promote lips (feature reds and pinks with Valentine’s Day in mind). March can focus on spring colors and eye application techniques. Good spring colors to emphasize include all pastels and grays, both muted and clear. Silver, opal and quartz are nice accent colors.

Feature skin care camouflage and calming ingredients in the second quar-ter. April is Rosacea Awareness Month, a perfect opportunity to emphasize redness reduction. May is Melanoma Awareness Month, which is a good time to emphasize treatments for all kinds of skin issues that are exacerbated by the sun and heat. May lends itself to makeup demonstrations for Mother’s Day, graduations and proms. Focus on different age groups, bringing mothers, daughters and grandmothers together.

Continue sun care education in June, and promote sunless tans, bronzers and contouring techniques. Feature men’s skin care with Father’s Day gifts and ser-

by Diane Ranger

image vices. Summer colors that are trendy now include clear reds, brilliant oranges and hot pinks. Accentuate them with cham-pagne or bronze.

The third quarter brings July, a good time to focus on travel size products. Moisturizing products are another logi-cal area of focus, with summer heat aggravating oily skin and water sports drying it out. Cooling ingredients are welcome. August is Skin Care Awareness Month, and also a perfect opportunity to have “Back to School” promotions. In September, feature fabulous fall colors like clear jewel tones of amethyst, emer-ald, topaz and ruby. Forest greens, rich browns, ferns and burgundy are good muted colors. Accentuate both muted and clear tones with gold, copper and pewter colors.

In the fourth quarter, think pink for Breast Cancer Awareness in October. Halloween brings pumpkin facials and enzyme peels. November and December are the gifting months. Imaginative displays can significantly boost sales. Emphasize all color gift items, from brush sets to color stories with age appropriate selections; include products tailored to teenagers, anti-aging and everything in between. Holiday makeovers are es-sential! Consider corporate gifting out-reach as an added source of revenue. Accentuate burnt orange, all shades of pink and brick red with silver and gold.

Special event planning details allow you to maximize every area of potential revenue streams. Create your plan, ex-ecute it, measure your performance, ad-just it as needed and watch your cosmetic retail business grow exponentially! n

Diane Ranger in the founder of Bare Escentuals. She spearheaded the growth of the specialty body care retail industry when she created the mineral makeup concept in 1977, giving women a healthy makeup alternative. In 2000, Ranger founded Colorescience, which included new medical grade mineral formulas with SPF protection as high as 50. Ranger is now retired.

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WHILE THE SCENE MAY LOOK sparkling clean on the surface, your nail department could actually be a fertile ground for spreading infection. Individual workstations, pedicure bowls and other implements can transmit bacteria, fungi and viruses from client to client, result-ing in scary scenarios, unhappy cus-tomers, unsavory PR and even costly liability claims.

Bacteria such as methicillin-resistant staphylococcus aureus (MRSA) can live on surfaces that are not properly disin-fected. This can be dangerous—even deadly—for you and your clients. Fungi can grow on skin, as well as work surfaces that are not properly cleaned and dis-infected. Many bacteria and viruses are carried throughout the body by blood and other fluids, and can be inadver-tently transferred when implements come into contact with broken skin.

Adhering to the sanitization and dis-infection rules mandated by your state is just the beginning of protecting yourself and your clients. Here are some tips for avoiding infection, keeping your clients happy and safeguarding your business.

By the bookGetting an EPA-registered disinfectant is only half the battle; using it exactly as the manufacturer recommends is the

rest. Use the suggested product-to-water ratio—diluting a disinfectant incorrectly can dramatically reduce its effectiveness. Also, make sure that whatever you are disinfecting is totally submerged for the recommended amount of time, generally 10 minutes unless otherwise specified.

Porous versus non-porousKnow the difference between these two terms, because that dictates whether or not something can be disinfected. Porous items are made of material that has openings capable of absorbing moisture. While some porous items, like towels, can be safely disinfected, others cannot. If a porous item such as a nail file contacts broken skin, blood or bodily fluid, it must be disposed of. Non-porous items like steel implements are much easier to disinfect and store safely. continues

BY JENNY FLANAGAN

AVOIDING INFECTION IN THE NAIL DEPARTMENT

One and doneIf an item is marked “single-use” or “dis-posable,” follow the directions and throw it away in a closed container after use. This goes for things like cotton balls, gauze, paper towels and most nail files. Trying to save money by using these items more than once could cost you in the long run.

Clear communicationIf a client has visible signs of infection on her hands or feet, politely and pro-fessionally decline to provide services. Symptoms can include skin infections that are evident by pimples or boils, but some signs may be more difficult to no-tice. If you suspect a client has an infec-tion, refer them to a medical professional.

A good exampleThe Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC) recommends that the undersides of nails be scrubbed with soap, water and a nailbrush whenever the hands are washed. According to the CDC website, fingernails “may harbor dirt and germs, and can contribute to the spread of some infections, such as pinworms … longer fingernails can harbor more dirt and bacteria than short nails.”

Follow the CDC recommendation by always asking your clients to scrub

FOLLOW THE CDC RECOMMENDATION BY ALWAYS ASKING

YOUR CLIENTS TO SCRUB UNDER

THEIR FINGERNAILS WHEN THEY ARRIVE

AT YOUR SALON.


under their fingernails when they arrive at your salon. Also, if your nails look impeccable and you wash your hands before and after a service, you are set-ting a glowing example for your clients.

Fresh impressionsCleanliness in your nail salon has bene-fits other than safety. Disposing of items in closed containers, keeping products sealed tight and polishing surfaces helps keep the air fresh and chemical-free for you and your clients. Beware of linger-ing smells and make sure the area is adequately ventilated. Remember that some clients are particularly sensitive to scents, so avoid using air fresheners that may actually make the situation worse. Natural is generally best unless you have subtle fragrances to share that are not aerosol-based.

Worst case scenarioEven the cleanest of salons can acciden-tally harbor infection, thanks to the num-ber of clients coming through the doors. Make sure you have adequate liability insurance for when things go wrong. n

Jenny Flanagan is the director of membership for Associated Hair Professionals (AHP), which provides business resources, marketing materials, networking opportunities and liability insurance to individual hair and nail professionals. AHP’s sister organizations, Associated Bodywork & Massage Professionals and Associated Skin Care Professionals, have 25 years of experience insuring the salon, spa and wellness industry. Contact Flanagan at [email protected] and learn more about AHP’s member benefits at www.insuringstyle.com.

image|polished, pristine and professional

Keep it cleanFollowing a consistent procedure during nail appointments can help you maintain a safe and sanitary working environment. Here are some guide-lines to follow when performing your most popular services—refer to your state board for any additional rules you may have to follow.

Manicures• Beforeyoubegin,askyourclienttowashtheirhands.

While they are doing this, wash yours as well.• Cleananddisinfectyourworkstationaftereachclient.Thisincludes

using appropriate and effective products to clean them thoroughly, then disinfect work surfaces such as manicure tables and any tubs or bowls, as well as any towels or linens.

• Properlydisinfectallimplementsaccordingtomanufacturerspecifications after each client, and store the disinfected items in a clean, covered container.

Pedicures• Requestthatclientsdonotshavetheirlegs48hourspriortoa

pedicure. This decreases the risk of cuts and nicks that can spread or open the doors to infection.

• Visuallyinspectyourclient’sfeetbeforestartingaservice.Ifthereis any indication of an open wound or infection, tell them you are concerned that offering a service could make the situation worse, and refer them to their primary care doctor.

• Properlydisinfectyourworkstationandallimplements, as suggested in the manicure procedure.

PROPERLY DISINFECT ALL IMPLEMENTS ACCORDING TO MANUFACTURER SPECIFICATIONS AFTER EACH CLIENT, AND STORE THE DISINFECTED

ITEMS IN A CLEAN, COVERED CONTAINER.

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lash perming BY ELLIE MALMIN


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THE EYELASH INDUSTRY IS ONE OF the fastest growing segments of the beauty business. Eyelash perming has now been added to the boom; it has become a popular service for women who use lash curlers every day, or those who use growth serums and have out of control lashes. Lash curling is a useful tool for the lash artist who does exten-sions and deals with natural lashes that do not have the same curvature of the extensions. Perming can also be used to straighten or curl a lash.

History of hair perming • 1905 Charles Nessler invented a

heavy wire machine that supplied currents to metal rods and wound around hair stands to create a perm.

• 1931 A pre-heat method was introduced.

• 1932 Chemist Ralph Evan and Everett G. McDonough pio-neered external heat generated by a chemical reaction.

• 1941 Cold waving was developed, a permanent waving that used lo-tions. This process was usually re-ferred to as an alkaline perm.

• 1970 Acid balanced perms were introduced, which were less dam-aging than previous perming methods. In the next decade, this method led to eyelash perming.In eyelash perming, a chemical and

physical change occurs that permanent-ly alters the structure of the eyelash hair. The physical change happens when the eyelash is wrapped on a rod or secured to the silicone lift pad. The chemical change is created by the perm solution (reducing agent), then the neutralizer (oxidizing agent). To understand how the perm works, we must understand the structure of the hair.

STEP 4 Position the rod on top of the eyelid and adhesive. Roll the rod as close to the base of the lash line as pos-sible. With both ends secure, hold the rod in place until it is completely dry.

STEP 5 After the rod is in place, apply the adhesive to the top of the rod. Carefully roll eyelashes lash by lash around the rod with a toothpick or the back end of a set of tweezers. Do not overlap lashes or crisscross them. The way they are positioned is the same way they will be permed. Make sure all hairs are rolled and adhered around the rod. The solution will penetrate through the latex adhesive.

STEP 6 Apply a moist cotton pad under the eyes or use eye gel pads. This will prevent fumes from irritating the eyes. Be sure you have not attached any bottom lashes.

STEP 7 After setting a timer, use a microfiber brush to apply a perm solu-tion to the eyelashes. Work from just shy of the base to just shy of the tips, always moving away from the base. Do not apply the perm solution to the tips. Cover the lashes on the rod with a cotton pad to create heat. Do not allow any solution to touch the skin. If tearing or burning occurs, rinse immediately. Follow manufacturers’ guidelines for pro-cessing time. Do not over process; it will lead to frizzy lashes.

• Thecuticleistheoutermostlayer.• Thecortexisthemajorcompo-

nent of the hair (middle section). This is where the change occurs.

• Themedullaistheinnermostlayer.The chemical composition of a lash

is called keratin; this is a protein made up of approximately 19 amino acids. When many amino acids are bonded together, they form chains of polypep-tides. These are wound around each other, resembling the shape of a spring. The lash hair contains high concentra-tions of the amino acid cysteine, which joins together crosswise with disulfide bonds, which add strength to the kera-tin proteins. In order for the perm to work, the bonds must be broken. The lash will become soft and conform to the shape of the rod. Then the neutral-izer is applied to chemically bond the broken disulfide bonds back together.

Semi-permanent lash curling procedureQUICK GLANCE: STEP-BY-STEP STEP 1 Determine the size of the rod needed. A small rod is for very short lashes or a tight curl. A medium rod is for normal length lashes. A large rod is for longer lashes, or for bending normal length lashes.

STEP 2 Remove rod from package. (Rods have been pre-treated with glue; if placed on the skin like this they will be hard to remove.) Bend the rod slightly to conform to the eye shape. Measure the length of the eye and trim the rod if necessary. Repeat on the other eye.

STEP 3 Have your client close their eyes. Apply a latex adhesive to the base of one eyelid as you would a liquid eyeliner. Use enough latex adhesive to cover the length of the rod and twice the width of the rod. continues

THE EYELASH INDUSTRY IS ONE OF THE FASTEST GROWING SEGMENTS OF THE BEAUTY BUSINESS.


• Ifanysolutiongetsonto the skin, remove it immediately.

• Alwaysapplyapermshyof both the tips and the base.

AVOID EYELASH CURLING (PERMING) IF YOUR CLIENT HAS ANY OF THE FOLLOWING CONDITIONS:• Latexallergy• Pregnancy

• Alopecia• Blepharitis• Madarosis• Conjunctivitis• Trichiasis• Demodexfolliculorum• Sties• Tearing/wateringeyes• Dryeyessyndrome• Eyeallergies• Crustyeyes• Itchyeyes• Redeyes• Sensitiveeyes• Hasundergoneanyofthefollow-

ing types of eye surgery in the past three months:1. Cosmetic surgery2. Lasik surgery3. Cataracts

PREPPING THE EYES• Haveyourclient

remove contact lenses.• Positiontheclientlayingflat.

This is the safest position for curling.

STEP 8 Remove perm solution with a moistened lint free applicator, from the base to the tip.

STEP 9 After setting the timer, use a microfiber brush to apply the setting lotion in the same manner you applied the perm solution. Allow it to sit for the same amount of time you left the perm solution on. Then remove the setting lo-tion with moistened lint free applicators.

STEP 10 If the perm kit contains a nourisher, use it according to the manu-facturer’s directions. Apply eyelash perm nourisher, then apply cotton pads to the top of eyes (skip this step if you will be tinting the newly permed lashes)

STEP 11 Using a lint free applica-tor with silicone remover, hold the rod in place and work lashes back and forth until they lift from the rod. While holding the rod in place, use another lint free applicator with more silicone remover. Move it back and forth under the rod.

The perm should last until the lash is shed at its normal rate (a three-month period). The client will re-book lash perm-ing services every three months. As it grows in a straight line, the lash will ap-pear thicker and denser as an optical illusion is created. • Keeptheeyewash

solution handy.• Ifanyburningor

tearing occurs, stop and rinse with eyewash solution.

• Removeallmakeupfromeyelashes and eyelids with an eyelash shampoo.

• Drylashescompletely.Thistakesapproximately 10 minutes, or use an eyelash dryer.

• Wearlatexgloves when cleaning eyes.Now you are ready to do lash perming for your clients. Before you do, remember the following key rules:• Makesureyoudoa

patch test for sensitivity.• Takebeforeandafterpictures.• Haveyourclient

sign a release form. • Checkyourstateregulations

to verify that lash perming is allowed.

• Alwaysfollowmanufacturers’instructions.

• Makesureyouhave eye wash at your station.

• Makesurecontactlensesareremoved from the client’s eyes before you begin lash perming. n

Ellie Malmin is a cosmetologist and electrologist with more than 30 years of experience in the industry. She is the founder of Anushka Spa in West Palm Beach, FL. Malmin has coauthored several training manuals, developed training programs for various cosmetics manufacturers and created a styling program for eyelash implants with the prominent Dr. Alan Bauman. She is currently the executive director for the Lashologist Council of America.

image|lash perming

afterbefore

A LASH PERMING PROCEDURE LASTS APPROXIMATELY 50 TO 60 MINUTES. THE

RECOMMENDED PRICE POINT IS $75 TO $100.

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BY KATIE SAXTON

HANDSNAIL ARTISTRY TRENDS FOR SUMMER 2013

ARE YOU EXCITED FOR THE sun and heat of summer 2013? Now’s the time to shed the jack-

ets, bare the arms and legs, and dabble in all the creative summer nail art that is pop-ping up on fingers and toes everywhere!

For summer, it is apparent that any-thing and everything goes when it comes to nail art! Nail technicians have come up with never before seen designs, and nail polish companies have created finishes

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beyond lacquer and matte that have truly revolutionized the industry. By pairing different colors, finishes and designs, nail artists can customize almost any look you can think of. Nail art has never been so creative!

GLISTENING OCEAN MANICURE A new nail design that is showing up on hands everywhere is a teal blue mani-cure featuring glittery gold or silver tips. The glamorous teal hue evokes images of shimmering oceanic waves on sum-mer beach days, and the gold or silver sparkles make the manicure perfect for a classy affair.

NEON GEOMETRICS Nothing says, “I’m a fabulous fashionista ready for summer fun” more than a dark mani with geometric neon lines crisscrossing over each nail. To create this funky nail design, paint nails with a coat of neon orange, yellow, pink or green and let it dry. Then take thin pieces of tape and place them on the first nail in a geomet-ric pattern. Paint over the nail and tape strips with two coats

of dark blue, black or dark gray; then take the tape off while the polish is still wet. Allow to dry, and then add a clear top-coat. Follow this process for the rest of the nails and voilà! You have created an exciting neon geometric manicure that is ready to turn heads at summer beach parties and pool-side barbecues!

NICE, NEUTRAL NAILS The pale nail trend from the 2013 spring season con-tinues, as you’ll notice clear, white, light grey and flesh tone polishes on those who prefer the minimalist look. Barely there nails are perfect for being understated or natural, whether your client is dressing up or down. This look works especially well when they want their outfit do the talking.

DARK GREENPolishes in olive and dark green are the breakout trend for the summer of 2013. These hues celebrate the pretty palm tree fronds you see at the beach, and the dark green mint leaves in your fa-vorite summer mojitos!

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BITS OF METALLIC If you like adding a little bling to nails, embrace a bit of the metallic trend for the next manicure you give. Manicurists are highlighting nails with stripes, shapes and random designs against both colorful and dark backgrounds. Metallic polishes work well for those clients who would like a hint of elegance.

MESSY GLITTERED TWO-TONE MANICURE Two-tone manicures were huge in the most re-cent fall and spring seasons, with women adorning each nail with contrasting col-ors, in patterns such as bright diagonal tips and ombre. The two-toned mani-cure trend is also popular this summer, but the design has a whole new look! Now, manicurists are jazzing nails up with messy and glittered two-tone manicures. This design features a solid coat of black or dark blue nail polish with an “explosion” of silver or gold glitter around the base of each nail. This lovely manicure cel-ebrates all the city lights you see on warm summer nights!

BOLD, TEXTURED NAILS Edgy nails featuring pointy or “bloody” vampire-esque tips were huge this spring, and brave and unique manicures are also a major trend for the summer of 2013. Amazing new “textured” nail designs are popular this summer, with manicur-ists employing fabulous new finishes like leather, crocodile and speckled bird

eggs. Nail polish companies are also creating fascinating and unusual effects in a bottle, the latest one being polish that imparts a concrete-like finish on nails. Another trick to keep nails looking distinctive and bold is to use dark colors, like red and burgundy or metallics. Combine all of these colors in one manicure for a standout design that will bring your client many compliments!

MULTI-COLORED POLKA DOTSOn hot summer days, who doesn’t love yummy ice cream—or frozen yogurt coated with colorful candy sprinkles? Celebrate this tasty summer tradition with cute and stylish multi-colored polka-dot manicures! Paint your client’s nails a vanilla white and let them dry. Then, using a toothpick, paint little “sprinkle” dots all over each nail, using different colored polishes. After they dry, add a clear topcoat to complete the look.

ACCENT NAIL DESIGN A trend that debuted a couple years ago and will be seen throughout the summer is paint-ing a complementary design on one nail from each hand. These individual nails may have stripes, diagonals, polka dots or any number of designs. Accent nail design is a great way to try a com-bination of color and finishes without making a huge statement.

NAIL DECALS, STICKERS AND KITS Nail decals have been around for a while; however, it’s not just about add-ing a simple sticker to a manicure any-more. Now, the more elements you add to nails, the better. Kits have leather, paper, colored stones, studs, glitter and small pearls. Remember, if you are do-ing a lot with your client’s nails, advise them to choose a minimalist look for their attire.

PEDICURE TRENDS Whatever looks good on the hands also looks good on the feet, and the manicure designs will be the same ones adorning pedicured feet. Of course, your clients may choose not to have the exact same design on their hands and feet. It may be a better idea to suggest they pick a color from their multi-colored manicure and polish their toes that color. Or they can choose a color from their multi-colored pedicure to paint their nails. Don’t commit mani/pedi overkill by creating competing designs on the hands and feet.

A few of the trends we saw this past spring, along with the latest color combinations and finishes, are making their way onto the nails of trendy ladies everywhere this summer season. Have your clients pick their favorite polish combi-nations and help them create a new look this season! n

nail photos courtesy of Diane Graham & CustomNailSolutions.com

Katie Saxton is the founder of Custom Nail Solutions. She is a renowned blogger and a regular contributor to television, radio, print and online media on topics of nail beauty, nail care and nail trends. Custom Nail Solutions is a revolutionary artificial nail product offering custom nails that fit each individual’s unique nail beds. They are reusable, chemicalfree and guaranteed to last a lifetime. Find out more at www.CustomNailSolutions.com.

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BY KAREN HODGESb

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WET AND Wild


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WATER IS ONE OF THE BUILDING BLOCKS of life. If you are talking about microorganisms in the salon, this can be either desirable or undesirable.

Levels of cleanAs a manicurist, there are certain standards of clean-liness you need to maintain for your health, as well as the health of your clients. In order to have an educated discussion about avoiding infections in the nail salon, some terms need to be clarified. The Centers for Disease Control (CDC) (1) has put forth the following definitions:

Sanitize: To remove all gross debris. This level of clean falls between removing visible con-tamination and a thorough cleansing. This is done mechanically under running water or with a brush. A detergent (degreaser) or enzymatic cleanser is recommended. This level of clean can be per-formed on the skin.

Disinfect: To reduce the presence of micro-organisms. This state varies from low level disin-fection that works on vegetative bacteria to high level disinfection of more resistant microorganisms such as viruses. In the salon, this is usually accom-plished by complete immersion in an appropriate solution that removes all the microorganisms, but not necessarily all spores. This procedure can only be performed on hard surfaces and implements, and these chemicals should never be in contact with the skin.

Sterilize: To remove all living microorgan-isms, including spores.

This is an absolute state—either something is sterile or it is not. Sterilization can be done through chemical treatments, heat, gas, radia-tion, etc. In the salon, this is usually accomplished with heat in a dry heat sterilizer or an autoclave. Sterilization can only be accomplished on imple-ments that survive high heat, and in no way can skin be considered sterile.

No uncertain termsNow that the various levels of cleanliness are clear, let’s talk about what the different terms mean for nail services.• Wecansanitizeourhands,ourclients’

hands or their feet by mechanically scrub-bing contaminates from the surface.

• Wecandisinfectourtables,chairs,pediba-sins and other hard surfaces, as well as our implements. We can do this by using an appropriate disinfectant at the correct dilu-tion for the correct amount of time.

• Wecanachievesterilizationofourimple-ments, although once we break the seal of the sani-pack, those implements are no longer classified as sterile. This would be a good place to put one of

those quotes in a small box; such as: “In order to achieve disinfection … sanitation first.” This is very important!

To achieve disinfection or sterilization, sanita-tion has to be done first. This means that in order to properly disinfect an implement, debris, oils or other contaminants must first be removed by wash-ing, scrubbing and rinsing them away. If this step is not done first, the disinfectant can be blocked from coming in 100 percent contact with the sur-face of the implement, and viable microorganisms can remain present. It is not effective disinfection to use a nipper and place it directly into a disin-fectant solution to soak, and you are endangering yourself and others with this behavior.

Clean the cleanerThere are as many brands of disinfectant solutions in the industry as there are brands of nail polish. All of them have specific directions for proper use. Many require dilution to a specific percentage. Many have a specific timeline for their use. All

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BLEACH IS EFFECTIVE WITHIN 30 SECONDS, AND WHILE THE INDUSTRY STANDARD FOR MOST DISINFECTANTS IS 10 MINUTES, SOME DISINFECTANTS MAY REQUIRE A 20 MINUTE SOAK.


Practical applicationLet’s go through a typical manicure, applying what we know:• Handyourclientabrushandinstruct

them to use soapy water to scrub around their cuticles, under their nails and over the front and back of their hands.

• Youdothesame.Thisachieves sanitation for both of you.

• Useonlysanitizedanddisinfected implements to perform your service.

• Aftertheservice,throwawayalldisposablesand scrub each implement with a clean, soapy brush under running water. Drain and pat dry before placing them in your disinfecting method of choice.

• Allowtheproperamountoftime for the disinfection process.

• Disinfectallhardsurfacesthe client may have contacted with an appropriate solution.

• Storedisinfectedimplementsinaclean,dryplace away from sources of contamination.

Practice these steps until they become auto-matic, and if you handle things confidently and matter-of-factly, your clients will readily accept your direction. They are looking to you to be in control and professional, so they can relax and enjoy the service. n

Footnotes1. Centers for Disease Control, Guideline for Disinfection and Sterilization in Healthcare Facilities,2008.AppendixB,pp326-327.

Karen Hodges is a licensed esthetician and manicurist with more than 15 years of experience. She is a freelance writer, and has spoken around the globe as an industry educator and public speaker. Hodges does consulting and training in salons as well as on a oneonone basis with individuals. Arrangements for classes, speaking engagements, webbased or personal training can be made by contacting her at [email protected].

of them are ineffective if they are diluted when wet implements are placed in the soaking tray. And they are also ineffective when contaminants (think skin cells, body oil, or even cuticle oils) are introduced into the solution.

If any of the above conditions are not met, then you are not properly disinfecting your imple-ments or hard surfaces. Here are the key words:

Appropriate: Some disinfectants cannot be used on plastics. Some, such as bleach, while very effective at germ killing, will remove color from objects.

Dilution: It is very important to read the la-bel. Bleach is effective at a 10 percent dilution, whileotherdisinfectantsmayrequirea1:64ratio,which must be maintained.

Time: Disinfectant agents require various amounts of time to work properly. Bleach, for ex-ample, is effective within 30 seconds, and while the industry standard for most disinfectants is 10 minutes, some disinfectants may require a 20 minute soak. Again, read the label!

Uncontaminated: The disinfectant solution is only viable when fresh and uncontaminated. It is erroneous to think that it will take care of everything. The solution can only handle a cer-tain load before its effectiveness is diminished.

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THE NUMBER OF INCIDENTS OF INFECTION, FUNGUS and injury due to manicure and pedicure services gone awry is on the rise. With the nail care industry generating six bil-lion dollars a year in revenue (and continuing to increase), something needed to be done for the health of consumers and technicians alike.

The change that came was met with a strong, yet simple four-word statement made by clients: “It is about time!” This sums up the new concept of the foot spa. This new type of spa offers pedicures and additional services, such as manicures and massages, with the safety of their clients protected, while also working closely with an on-site podiatry practice. Medical foot spas target the podiatrist’s patients initially, and then branch

out to market to the community. Soon, the rest of the city de-sires their services as well. “Quite often, one of the first com-ments made by clients when they first arrive in our foot spa is: ‘It is about time,’” says Michael Horwitz, D.P.M., a licensed podiatrist with over 25 years of experience. He is the owner of CleanSpa, a 1,000 square foot spa in Chesterfield, MO that he developed. It is located adjacent to his practice, Feet For Life.

“Some stand in the lobby, arms open wide with their head thrown back and make this comment: ‘It is about time!’ They want the nail technicians and management to know how much they appreciate the foot spa. They wanted to find a safe, health conscious pedicure that is also wonder-fully relaxing. Now, they have one.” p

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BY DENISE BAICH

When clients use this statement, they are referring to the combination of several components of the foot spa concept: atmosphere, cleanliness, expertise and care. When all of these components come together with the utmost atten-tion to detail applied, the result is a facility and staff that ap-peals to the client’s senses, while also addressing the areas of medical need that may exist and the beauty they desire. This leaves a lasting and very much appreciated result long after their services are complete, and builds a long term cli-ent/provider relationship.

Atmosphere Atmosphere must be apparent from the moment the client steps into the spa. This is the feeling the spa has chosen for their clients to have when they walk in. It moves them toward experiencing comfort via ambiance, and to trusting the spa with their care. Whether the décor is trendy or Victorian, it must combine top-notch technology with esthetics and cleanliness in a way that moves their mood in the right direction, while also building a confident returning and referring clientele.

It is important to keep all sensory details in mind, such as sight, sound, taste, touch and smell. Each detail is con-sidered individually and collectively with the other details. Comfortable seating, luxurious surroundings, soothing spa music, a well-trained nail technician with just the right touch and knowledge, a tasty beverage and a delicious fragrance gently wafting through the air ... now that is atmosphere.

Cleanliness Cleanliness is a detail that interplays among all of the com-ponents in one fashion or another, but specifics that are important to foot care must be present. For example, the incidence of fungus and other infections and their transmis-sion is on the rise among nail clients. Podiatrists indicate one common denominator among many infected clients: visits to spas or salons. Technology makes cleanliness as easy as 1-2-3, so not performing perfect infection control reflects la-ziness in the area of sanitation, and indicates that these spas or salons care very little about their clients and staff. Foot spas recognize the importance of perfect infection control, and will make the investments in the products and training necessary to meet and exceed good standards in the area of safety through cleanliness.

Incidences of infection in their clients is a reason podia-trists are investing in foot spas—they have seen too many foot infections allegedly caused by poor infection control in nail salons being reported. Turning this negative into a posi-tive has produced an opportunity for both podiatrists and nail technicians. Podiatrists can open a foot spa to support the health of their patients, and nail technicians have a new employment resource.

ExpertiseThis component reflects the time and investment a facil-ity has made in their staff to upgrade their skills for work-ing safely with the spa’s clients and patients. Additionally, the spa must choose nail technicians who truly care about the safety of their clients. Experts believe that over 20 percent of the clients in spas may have chronic illnesses such as diabe-tes mellitus; a higher percentage of the clients in foot spas will have chronic illnesses than those in regular spas and salons because they are owned by podiatrists, so training is imperative. Podiatrists now have a resource to train their technicians properly for working with these cli-ents, and technicians wishing to upgrade their skills in nail care can take the same training through MediNail Learning Center, an online training system. This training prepares nail technicians to assist chronically ill clients while providing services in a podiatric setting. “Podiatrists believe there is a need for additional safety and precautionary training for nail technicians who perform services on their patients,” says Janet McCormick, co-owner of Medinail Learning Center. “Now, instead of just saying, ‘No nail salons,’ or ‘nail salons are dirty,’ they can open one of their own with techs they know perform well within safety parameters. They can of-fer luxury services while expanding the consumer traffic and safety for both industries.”

“Foot spas can bring about positive change for these industries, possibly bringing them into a partnership in pro-tecting clients while providing clients luxury and foot care,” states Dr. Horwitz. “Truly a pedicure may be a life or death circumstance for clients with healing issues, and stepping up to performing expert and safe pedicures for these cli-ents can become a life altering opportunity for nail techni-cians, and we look forward to being an integral part of that metamorphosis. Services with well trained nail technicians always begins with the client’s health in mind through the performance of an initial evaluation, and then continues throughout the service.”

In addition, the accessibility to potential medical care onsite supports a call to a podiatrist to evaluate “not nor-mal” circumstances that clients might not have been aware of. It prevents inappropriate pedicures; and available well-care education is easily implemented to help clients avoid potential suffering, and the medical circumstances that may result from it occur during a fast and dirty pedicure service. The products carried by the medical foot spa and recom-

continues

“A PEDICURE MAY BE A LIFE OR DEATH CIRCUMSTANCE FOR CLIENTS WITH HEALING ISSUES.”


mended by the pedicurists are superior to those purchased by many non-medical salons or spas; they reflect the level of care provided by a podiatrist-owned foot spa.

Tying together a podiatry practice and foot spa is beneficial for both businesses. The podiatry practice feeds well patients to the spa, as the spa refers potential podiatry patients to the podiatry office. This magnifies the importance of the factors mentioned above, and enhances the success of both. Just consider how welcoming it is for a client to travel from a medi-cal situation to a spa setting, or how reassuring it is to move from a spa setting to a medical setting at the very moment a medical need is discovered. The trained nail technicians readily support this care for their clients from one scenario


to the other, enabling the podiatry office to assist a larger client base, with their well-being first and foremost in mind.

I would like to re-state the strong, yet simple statement, “It is about time!” Hearing that statement roll off the tongue of a precious client who has just endured a year of chemo-therapy is truly memorable. This special guest was finally able to experience a manicure and pedicure again without fear, knowing she would be safe in our hands. The rewarding sat-isfaction of knowing that is only trumped by her next state-ment, “Thank you, I feel like a woman again.”

Combining skills, talent, expertise and sanitation creates a dynamic and cohesive bond between the client and the spa. n

Denise Baich has 31 years of experience as a nail technician, and has also been a salon manager and owner. Currently, she is the spa director at CleanSpa in Chesterfield, MO, a specialty pedicure foot spa. CleanSpa is one of the first foot spas in the country, and specializes in pedicures that are safe, clean and luxurious. For more information, email [email protected].

photo courtesy of CleanSpa, Chesterfield, MO

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SCOLORFUL KISSESLady Burd® Cosmetics introduces LL Cream (Liquid Lip Cream), a highly pigmented, semi-matte gloss infused with a blend of oils that refresh, cool and soothe lips while applying a smooth layer of stunningly gorgeous color. The lightweight formula has a hint of mint that keeps the mouth looking and feeling kissably fresh all day, says the company. LL Cream is available in 10 vibrant shades. www.ladyburd.com 800.345.3448

LIP QUENCHERYour clients’ lips deserve a cool summer drink! The LipDrink SPF 15 from jane iredale—THE SKIN CARE MAKEUP® is moister than a traditional lip balm. Backed by The Skin Cancer Foundation, LipDrink uses titanium dioxide to provide an SPF of 15 and broad-spectrum sun protection, says the company. The formula is packed with antioxidants, including green tea extract and vitamins E and C. Flavored with lemon and orange oils, it is a perfect summer citrus treat!www.janeiredale.com800.762.1132

MORE NEWS

LASTING COVERAGE Osmosis Skincare’s Brow Gel is a water-resistant, smudge-proof gel formula that lets you fill in, shape and color your clients’ brows. Coverage lasts all day and night, says the company. The gel is available in auburn, brown and taupe. www.osmosisskincare.com877.777.2305


LASHING OUT Athena Cosmetics presents the newly developed Nouriche™ Eyelash Conditioner, infused with powerful peptides and soothing botanicals. This new eyelash conditioner enhances the look of natural lashes so they appear lush and luxurious. Clinically tested and hypoallergenic, Nouriche Eyelash Conditioner conditions and strengthens lashes with one daily stroke, creating a full and dramatic appearance, says the company. www.nourichecosmetics.com877.909.5274

PRETTY PROTECTION Offer your clients protection for their skin that infuses their complexion with some color! The Advanced Shades SPF 30 from Advanced Rejuvenating Concepts™ is formulated for post procedure protection for all skin types, including sensitive and dry, says the company. This broad spectrum sunscreen helps with skin hydration and barrier function, while Z-Cote® zinc oxide and titanium dioxide offer optimal photo protection and help prevent premature aging. www.arcskincare.com800.689.0499

MOISTURIZING MANICURE Rejuvenail™ Fortifying Nail & Cuticle Treatment from Dermelect Cosmeceuticals® is an anti-aging treatment formulated with hyaluronic acid, green tea, vitamin E and shea butter. It hydrates and strengthens nails and relieves ragged, painful cuticles. Keratin is delivered directly to the nail bed, encouraging nails to grow while improving their resistance to chipping and splitting, says the company.www.dermelect.com888.693.3763

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SPREMIUM PRIMEROffer your clients the Oclipse® Sunscreen + Primer SPF 30 by ZO® Skin Health to smooth and prime skin for a more even makeup application, as well as prevent sun damage and reduce photo-aging. Natural melanin, titanium dioxide and zinc oxide are used to provide broad-spectrum UVA/UVB protection, says the company. It can be used as a primer under makeup for longer lasting wear.www.zoskinhealth.com 888.893.1375


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SSMOOTH SHIELDSmooth Shade™, a product of the all new JF Aesthetic Skin Care line from The Few Institute, is an SPF 30 formula that relies on potent UV blockers titanium dioxide and zinc oxide to protect skin from the harmful effects of the sun, says the company. With a slight tint, the product instantly gives skin a smooth and even appearance. www.tfiskinsuite.com312.202.0882

SEASONAL SHADESLVX Nail Laquer has launched their Summer 2013 collection, drawing inspiration from influential designers. The vegan luxury brand is featuring these top shades to define the summer season: Modena (poppy red), Rive (soft tan), Celeste (luminous blue), Deco (vibrant coral), Mynt (invigorating mint) and Chambord (vivid raspberry). The long lasting, chip resisant and non-streak formula is free of harsh and toxic chemicals.www.shoplvx.com

ONE STEP WONDERChina Glaze® introduces Texture, a unique new lacquer that applies as a crème but dries with a 3D texture effect. Texture only requires one step—painting the nail. Texture dries matte, but can be combined with China Glaze Fast Forward Top Coat for a glossy effect. With a finish similar to a sugared rim, Texture is the perfect accessory for a fun beach day, night-on-the-town or special rendezvous.www.chinaglaze.com323.728.2999

HYDRATED HANDSThe Keeki Pure and Simple™ Cuticle Rejuvenator provides advanced therapy for cuticles and hands without any harsh chemicals. Loaded with organic ingredients, this super clean formula keeps skin hydrated and nourished, says the company.The moisturizing organic ingredients include beeswax, sunflower, jojoba, lavender and tea tree oil.www.keekipureandsimple.com 866.512.7713


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Knowledge is Power Seriesby A Natural Difference Skincare. Cooper City, FL. 888.568.3150.


by PCA Skin. Oklahoma City, OK. 877.PCA.SKIN.


by PCA Skin. San Antonio, TX. 877.PCA.SKIN.


by PCA Skin. Chicago, IL. 877.PCA.SKIN.

Advanced Peeling Techniques for Complex Skin Conditions


East

JUNE (ONGOING)Advanced Chemical Peels With Skin Assessment

by A Natural Difference Skincare.Atlanta,GA.888.568.3150.


by A Natural Difference Skincare.Columbus, OH. 888.568.3150.




by PCA Skin. Houston, TX. 877.PCA.SKIN.




by PCA Skin. Oklahoma City, OK. 877.PCA.SKIN.





calendar|central|east

continues



by PCA Skin. Charleston, SC. 877.PCA.SKIN.


by PCA Skin. Orlando, FL. 877.PCA.SKIN.


by PCA Skin. Atlanta, GA. 877.PCA.SKIN.


by PCA Skin. Tampa, FL. 877.PCA.SKIN.


by PCA Skin. Newark, NJ. 877.PCA.SKIN.


by PCA Skin. Atlanta, GA. 877.PCA.SKIN.


by PCA Skin. Tampa, FL. 877.PCA.SKIN.

Seasonal Peels & Unusual Actives

by A Natural Difference Skincare. Fort Lauderdale, FL. 888.568.3150.


by A Natural Difference Skincare. Philadelphia, PA. 888.568.3150.


by A Natural Difference Skincare.Wilmington, DE. 888.568.3150.

Treating Acne in Skin of Colorby NCEA Commission on Accreditation. Online Continuing Education.201.670.4100.www.nceacertified.tv/online-ce-activities.




by PCA Skin. Charleston, SC. 877.PCA.SKIN.


by PCA Skin. Orlando, FL. 877.PCA.SKIN.

Laser and Light Therapy







by A Natural Difference Skincare. Atlanta, GA. 888.568.3150.


by A Natural Difference Skincare. Columbus, OH. 888.568.3150.

calendar|east

CALENDAR OF EVENTS


JUNE 24-263 Day Academy: Master Class With Lydia Sarfati. Become an Esthetic Superstar! Skin Science From the Lab, Facial Massage & Anti-Aging Treatments

by Repêchage. Secaucus, NJ. 800.248.SKIN.


by PCA Skin. Ann Arbor, MI. 877.PCA.SKIN.


by PCA Skin. New York, NY. 877.PCA.SKIN.

JUNE 1730 Minutes to Beauty-Express Treatments to Grow Your Retail Sales

by Repêchage. Secaucus, NJ. 800.248.SKIN.


by PCA Skin. Indianapolis, IN. 877.PCA.SKIN.


by PCA Skin. Charlotte, NC. 877.PCA.SKIN.

JUNE 23-25Advanced Skin Care Training: Skin Support for Oncology Patients

by Oncology Skin Therapeutics. Charlotte, NC. 828.252.8400.


by PCA Skin. Charlotte, NC. 877.PCA.SKIN.

calendar|east

The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, Long Beach 2013September29-30•LongBeach,CA1.800.471.0229

The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, Philadelphia 2013October27-28•Philadelphia,PA1.800.471.0229

The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, Miami Beach 2014April6-7•MiamiBeach,FL1.800.471.0229

The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, Dallas 2014May4-5•Arlington,TX1.800.471.0229

The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, Long Beach 2014September7-8•LongBeach,CA1.800.471.0229

The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, Philadelphia 2014October19-20•Philadelphia,PA1.800.471.0229

TRADE SHOWSSponsored by Les Nouvelles

Esthétiques & Spa and Dermascope

Pre-Congress National Esthetic Teacher Training (NETT) September28,2013•LongBeach,CA1.800.471.0229

Pre-Congress National Esthetic Teacher Training (NETT) October26,2013•Philadelphia,PA1.800.471.0229

National Esthetic Teacher Training Sponsored by NCEA


*Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa/American Edition has all publishing rights reserved. Reproduction in part or in whole without written permission by the publisher is prohibited. *Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa/American Edition is protected through Trademark registration in the United States and in foreign countries where Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa/American Edition circulates. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for unsolicited manuscripts. Articles appearing in this journal may not previously have been published elsewhere either inside or out-side the United States of America. Exceptions to this rule will be made only by agreement in writing between the author and the editors. The editors reserve the right to edit letters and other submitted materials or omit letters that are considered outside the laws of libel, slander and good taste. Claims and other statements by written and/or advertisement do not neces-sarily reflect the opinions of the Publisher/Editor of Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa. Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa’s Publisher/Editor assume no responsibility for any and all claims. Publisher is not responsible for any mailing delays beyond our control. *Direct all advertising rate inquiries to: Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa/American Edition, Advertising Department, 3929PonceDeLeonBlvd.,CoralGables,Florida33134.

advertisers’ indexReader

Service No.PageNumber

5 ................ A Natural Difference ................................................www.anaturaldifference.com ......................................... 232

60 .............. Advanced Rejuvenating Concepts .........................www.arcskincare.com .................................................... 120

38 .............. Allied Health Association .......................................www.alliedhealth.net ..................................................... 209

87 .............. Athena Beauty Inc ..................................................www.athenabeauty.com ................................................ 162

22 .............. Beautiful Image ......................................................www.beautifulimagellc.com .......................................... 183

93 .............. Bella Schneider Beauty ..........................................www.bellaschneiderbeauty.com .................................... 180

39 .............. Bio Jouvance ..........................................................www.biojouvance.com .................................................. 140

53,73 ......... Bio-Therapeutic .....................................................www.bio-therapeutic.com ............................................. 139

9 ................ Bioslimming ...........................................................www.bioslimming.com .................................................. 335

51 .............. Christina ................................................................. https://shop.christina-usa.com ...................................... 107

77 .............. Circadia by Dr. Pugliese .........................................www.circadia.com ......................................................... 101

132 ............ Darphin ..................................................................www.darphin.com ......................................................... 159

80 .............. Dermafile ...............................................................www.dermafile.com....................................................... 296

112 ............ Dr. Jeff ....................................................................www.dr-jeff.com ............................................................ 248

33 .............. Edge Systems ..........................................................www.HydraFacial.com ................................................... 201

2-3 ..............Éminence Organic Skin Care .................................www.eminenceorganics.com ........................................... 157

131 ............ Equipro ..................................................................www.equipro-bty.com ..................................................... 242

55 .............. Hairmax ...................................................................www.hairmaxsalons.com ............................................... 285

47 .............. Hydropeptide .........................................................www.hydropeptide.com .................................................. 278

43 .............. Image Skincare .......................................................www.imageskincare.com ................................................. 178

37 .............. Innovative Skincare ......................................................www.innovativeskincare.com......................................... 240

14-15 ........ International Congress of Esthetics and Spa ...........longbeach.skincareshows.com ...........................................

28-29 ........ International Congress of Esthetics and Spa ...........philadelphia.skincareshows.com ........................................

6 ................ Professional Program Insurance Brokerage .............www.dayspa-ins.com ..................................................... 208

13 .............. Lady Burd .....................................................................www.ladyburd.com........................................................ 119

19 .............. Le Mieux ......................................................................www.lemieuxcosmetics.com ......................................... 294

117 ............ Lucrèce Physicians’ Aesthetic Research ...................www.lucrece.com .......................................................... 263

8 ................ Marinello Schools of Beauty ......................................www.marinello.com ....................................................... 340

49 .............. Meg 21/Dynamis .........................................................www.meg21.com .......................................................... 344

35 .............. PCA Skin ......................................................................www.pcaskin.com .......................................................... 110

11 .............. Phytocéane ..................................................................www.phytoceaneusa.com.............................................. 176

6 ................ Professional Program Insurance Brokerage .............www.dayspa-ins.com ..................................................... 208

7 ................ Rapidlash .....................................................................www.rapidlash.com ....................................................... 224

107 ............ Rejuvi Laboratory ..........................................................www.rejuvilab.com ........................................................ 149

72 .............. Select Spa Source .........................................................www.selectspa.com ....................................................... 253

17 .............. Shira ..............................................................................www.shirausa.com ......................................................... 249

112 ............ Skin Blends ....................................................................www.skinblends.com ..................................................... 283

120 ............ Teka Fine Line Brushes, Inc. ..........................................www.tekabrushonline.com ............................................ 195

21 .............. Wishpro/Esthetic Solutions ......................................www.mywishpro.com .................................................... 339



Documents

LNE & Spa - June 2013