August Canadian Jeweller

for the business of retailing jewelleryAUGUST 2010

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canadian jeweller magazine

PUBLICATIONS MAIL 40678000 | 60 BLOOR STREET WEST SUITE 1106, TORONTO ON, M4W 3B8 | $25

Do you know what qualies for Made in Canada?

Competition Guidelines

Ethical Tech

Why privacy is vital for every business

Green Fever

Eco-jewellery is here in a big way

JewellersGreg and Jeff Buzbuzian of Knar Jewellery in Guelph7/22/10 5:08:01 PM

First-Generation

PLUS:

ALL THE LATEST MARKET NEWS, TRENDS & EVENTS

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A Tradition in Excellence...

For details, write #101 on Free Info Page, page 120.

Canadas leading ring and jewellery manufacturer

Siffari Jewellery Co. Limited, 55 Gervais Drive, Toronto, Ontario, M3C 1Z2 Tel: 416-441-1010 Fax: 416-441-6188 1-800-387-0111www.siffari.com email: [email protected]

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Measurements

Fluorescence

Polish

Shape

Depth

Symmetry

RappaporT

Colour

CertificateGIA GIA GIA GIA Hw Hw Hw Hw Hw Hw Hw Hw Hw Hw Hw Hw Hw Hw Hw Hw

Stock #

Clarity

Weight

Table

802B+4 802A+6 332+1 1014B+3 70+1 335C+1 213E 2118+1 696E 725A+12 2029 25 119 71 690E 690C 7 691 2019 922

1.22 0.88 1.10 1.12 1.75 0.92 1.01 1.46 1.50 1.07 1.01 2.33 1.33 1.92 2.01 2.48 4.06 2.01 2.50 3.05

CUSHION RADIANT RBC OVAL RBC RBC RBC EMERALD PRINCESS PRINCESS RBC RBC RBC RBC PRINCESS CUSHION RBC RADIANT RBC PEAR

FIY FLY

VS1 VS2 VS2 VS1 SI2 INF I1 INF VVS2 VVS2 SI1 SI2 I1 I1 VS1 SI2 VS1 VS2 SI1 SI1

6.67x5.63x4.02 5.74x5.16x3.31 6.67x6.69x4.02 6.70x5.11x4.01 7.73x7.78x4.73 6.21x6.25x3.90 6.41x6.44x3.99 8.32x5.28x3.69 6.17x6.19x4.67 5.73x5.80x3.91 6.26x6.35x4.05 8.45x8.51x5.27 7.23x7.20x4.25 8.14x8.18x4.84 6.90x6.62x5.04 8.39x6.82x5.14 9.90x9.96x6.55 7.20x6.88x4.80 8.80x8.70x5.34 12.32x8.23x5.17

71.4 64.1 60.2 78.5 61.0 62.8 62.1 69.8 75.6 68.1 64.2 62.1 58.8 59.4 64.7 75.2 66.2 69.7 61.1 62.8

58.0 78.0 60.0 54.0 56.2 55.4 56.3 68.0 75.6 75.1 57.2 59.8 60.9 59.5 52.5 66.5 60.3 69.5 65.1 59.2

EX G VG VG EX VG VG VG VG VG EX EX G VG G G G G VG VG

G G

FAINT MED BLUE

N/A N/A N/A N/A -30% -35% -30% -20% -30% -30% -30% -25% -20% -50% -34% -40% -38% -37% -30% -40%

FANCYBROwN

VG STRONG GREEN G G VG G VG G G G VG G VG VG G G G G VG MED BLUE NONE NONE NONE NONE NONE NONE NONE NONE NONE NONE NONE NONE NONE NONE NONE NONE

FIY F D F D F E D E E F G G I I I I


Canadas REAL Diamond House. Our Diamonds MAKE you want to come back.

To add your name to our mailing list please forward your request to:

Radiant Stone 5.01 ct SI1, I, VG

[email protected] Queen St. E. Suite 501, Toronto, Ontario M5C 1R6 Phone: 416-863-6036/7 Toll Free: 1-866-387-1759 Fax: 416-863-0671 www.SapirDiamonds.com Round Stone 5.05 ct SI1, D, VG

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MakeVG G VG VG VG VG EX VG VG G VG VG VG VG G G G G G VG

Behind every With This Ring, theres a great jeweler.

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And behind every great jeweler, theres Stuller.Now you have a choice introducing new, patentpending Dura Tungsten from Stuller our latest solution

in contemporary metals. With Dura Tungsten, you now have the option to offer your customers contemporary designs and still keep your profit margin high. Especially when combined with Stullers overnight delivery and impeccable service. To learn more about new Dura Tungsten, call 800-877-7777, or visit stuller.com. Thats the beauty of it all.For details, write #103 on Free Info Page, page 120.7/22/10 12:48:14 PM 7/1/10 4:46 PM

B R I DA L

FI N I SHED

MOUNTI NGS

DI AMONDS

GEMSTONES

F I NDI NGS

METALS

TOOLS

PACKAGING

s t ul ler.com

800-877-7777

For details, write #103 on Free Info Page, page 97

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J E W E L L E R T O D A Y. S U P E R H E R O TO M O R R O W.

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P E R S O N A L J E W E L RY I N S U R A N C EMake your customers aware of Personal Jewelry Insurance from Jewelers Mutual Insurance Company and you just might save the day! Your customers can insure their jewellery with Jewelers Mutual, the only insurer that specializes exclusively in protecting jewellery and jewellery businesses in Canada* and the United States. In fact, we insure more than $3 billion of consumers jewellery. Benefits include: Consumer materials available to you at no cost Easy online application for your customers Competitive rates Comprehensive coverage Repair-and-replacement-only policy using customers preferred jeweller Claim payment directly to the jeweller covers all costs, labor, and percentage profit

So when your customer has a jewellery mishap, you can be the hero! With insurance from Jewelers Mutual, your customers can return to you, their jeweller of choice, for repairs and replacements. To learn how you can share information about Jewelers Mutuals Personal Jewelry Insurance program with your customers, visit JewelersMutual.ca. To order materials, click the Canadian retailers link in the lower left corner of the homepage.

800-558-6411 JewelersMutual.ca [email protected]*Personal Jewelry Insurance not available in Qubec.

E X C L U S I V E LY ENDORSED BY

C O V E R A G E S A L S O AVA I L A B L E F O R : R E TA I L E R S

M A N U FA C T U R E R S

WHOLESALERS

C U S TO M D E S I G N E R S

R E PA I R B U S I N E S S E S

APPRAISERS


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EstablishEd 1879 august 2010 vol. 131, no. 5Mark lash Guest Editor Olivier Felicio Editor-in-Chief | [email protected] lucy holden Associate Publisher | [email protected] Carol besler Editor Paul aguirre Associate Editor | [email protected] scott Jordan Art Director | [email protected] leslie Ross Designer | [email protected] stacy Karjala Designer | [email protected] Karen Robertson Production Coordinator | [email protected] barry hales Accounting and Administration | [email protected] daniel hare Administration Coordinator | [email protected] Erin Poredos Sales Assistant | [email protected]

CONtRibUtORs Mo charania, sarah b. hood, ilia horsburgh,Amber Klaehn, charles lewton-brain, Norma Meneguzzi spall, Duncan parker, Greg Merrall, stephen i. selznick, bonnie siegler, elizabeth sinnott, stan sudol, clare tattersall.

salEslucy holden AssociAte publisher (416) 203-7900 ext. 6117 email [email protected] .

Jeff Yamaguchi

ADVertisiNG sAles tel . (416) 203-7900 ext. 6122 email [email protected] ADVertisiNG sAles tel . (416) 203-7900 ext. 6126 email [email protected]

Karolann Cassman

CiRCUlatiON publicAtioN pArtNersGarth atkinson 345 Kingston road, suite 101 pickering, ontario, l1V 1A1 toll free 1-877-547-2246 email [email protected] 60 bloor street West, suite 1106 toronto, ontario, M4W 3b8 tel . (416) 203-7900 fax (416) 703-6392 555 chabanel street West, suite 1507 Montreal, Quebec, h2N 2J2 tel . (514) 381-5196 fax (514) 381-6223 toll free 1-888-358-8186 ext. 6117subscription Ratescanada one year, $185; two years, $175; three years $160. united states one year, us$205. Foreign one year us$205 (subscriptions include buyers Guide issues.) 8% p.s.t. for Newfoundland, New brunswick and Nova scotia residents. single copies $25; buyers Guide $40. bulk rates six or more subscriptions, $17.50 per subscription per year (canada only).

head Office

Montreal Office

Change of addressemail: [email protected] telephone: 1-877-547-2246 fax: 905-509-0735 or send your cover label and new address to canadian Jeweller c/o publication partners, 345 Kingston road, suite 101, pickering, oN canada l1V 1A1 Published by Rive Gauche Media ii inc. canada post canadian publications Mail sales product Agreement No. 40678000. the publisher does not assume any responsibility for the contents of any advertisement and any and all representations or warranties made in such advertising are those of the advertiser and not of the publisher. the publisher is not liable to any advertiser for any misprints in advertising not the fault of the publisher and in such an event the limit of the publishers liability shall not exceed the amount of the publishers charge for such advertising. No portion of this publication may be reproduced, in all or part, without the express written permission of the publisher. canadian Jeweller magazine is pleased to review unsolicited submissions for editorial consideration under the following conditions: all material submitted for editorial consideration (photographs, illustrations, written text in electronic or hard copy format) may be used by canadian Jeweller and their affiliates for editorial purposes in any media (whether printed, electronic, internet, disc, etc.) without the consent of, or the payment of compensation to, the party providing such material. please direct submissions to the editor, canadian. return undeliverable items to rive Gauche Media, 60 bloor street West, ste. 1106, toronto, oN canada M4W 3b8.


Official magazine of JVC

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ContentsAugust

table of

Features34 36 40 44 48 54 60 64 68 72Ethical Tech Privacy matters not only to your customer, but also to your business. Bargain Hunters Making the most out of the tools in your bench space. Moving Forward The new age of mining. The Benchmarks Why some gems set the standard for all others. Guiding Lights A change in whats Product of Canada and Made in Canada. First Generation Jewellers Knar Jewellers knows a thing or two about keeping a growing business together. Grand Brand Whats in a brand? And why consumers really care about them. The Current State of Synthetics Another new option for gems. Mens Jewellery: This Time its Personal Better and bolder, a category that is still going strong. Green Fever A trend is born with eco-friendly jewellery.

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80 84 86 90

On the Lookout The numbers suggest 2010 is going to end on a great note. Start Spreading the News What small business owners did to survive. Swan Song Looking at the trends from JCK Las Vegas. Unlimited Innovation Live from Vicenza, a show that never disappoints.

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ContentsAugust

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Departments14 16 18 26 28 32 33 52 76 94 98Letter from the Guest Editor Contributors Product Showcase Whos News Suzann Petterson joins TAG Heuer; Batali teams up with Ernst Benz. For The Record Movado closes boutiques; Official World Cup rings; Stuller goes contemporary. Stock Index Mining News All the happenings in the mining sector. JVC Feature Not once, but twice. Always be prepared. Company Profile Polar Ice Diamonds. Designer Profile Yossi Harari. Industry Buzz

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100 106 108 114 120 122

Show Guide Whats On Showcase Marketplace Fax Back Last Word

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letterfromguesteditor

Independent AmbitionIt is my pleasure to be the guest editor of this issue of Canadian Jeweller magazine. When asked whom I would select as the cover story for this months issue, I immediately thought of Je Buzbuzian of Knar Jewellery. I have known Jeff for over 10 years and I admire his business acumen, dedication and passion for the jewellery business. Je is a well respected colleague and friend. During the construction phase of my new store, Je was very insightful and forthcoming in sharing information with me on how to set up my store from an operational perspective. I was grateful for his insight and knowledge. I continue to use the Buzbuzians POS system to this day. Knar Jewellers is well-known and highly respected within the jewellery industry for its retail operations and for being an innovative leader in jewellery technology. Knar is an independent retail jeweller that has grown from a small, 200-sq.- . shop to a thriving three-store chain. e Buzbuzian brothers dedication to building their business operations is commendable. With the in ux of large corporate jewellers coming into Canada, it is refreshing to see an independent jeweller such as Knar continue to grow and develop its brand with integrity and commitment to excellence.

Mark Lash

Mark Lash Guest Editor Owner, Mark Lash Fine Jewelry

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I s

omen in

MAKE A FLEETING MOMENT L AST FOREVER. THRE AD YOUR CHOICE OF OUR BE AUTIFUL HANDFINISHED CHARMS ONTO A BR ACELET OF 14K GOLD, STERLING SILVER, LEATHER OR FABRIC. WHATS YOUR MOMENT? BE INSPIRED AT PANDORA-JEWELRY.COM OR PANDORA.NET.

Moments


U.S. Pat. No. 7,007,507

All rights reserved

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contributors

Stephen I. Selznick & Elizabeth SinnottFrom Cassels Brock law firm in Toronto, they collaborated on an article about the new competition guidelines for Made in Canada products (page 48). Stephens practice is concentrated on corporate and commercial, with an emphasis on intellectual property, competition and trade and technology law. He is also former chairperson of the Small Business Administration Advisory Committee. Liz is an associate in the Business Law Group, and her practice focuses on intellectual property. She works on corporate and litigation matters involving various aspects intellectual property.

Clare TattersallClare Tattersall is a Torontobased journalist providing freelance and contract writing and editing services to print, web and non-profit/corporate clients countrywide. Her journalistic experience includes serving as editor of multiple trade magazine titles covering the interior design, architecture, construction, property management and food industries. Her writing also has appeared in newspapers and other magazines including Canadian Living, Todays Bride, ELLE Canada and VIVA Magazine. Clare is also a regular contributing writer to Canadian Jeweller. Read her profile about Polar Ice Diamonds on page 76.

Sarah B. HoodSarah B. Hood has published hundreds of magazine articles in dozens of periodicals, including The Globe and Mail, the National Post, Enroute and Canadian Living, and has been writing for CJ for over four years. She has been shortlisted for both the National Magazine Awards and the Kenneth R. Wilson Awards for business journalism. She lectures on writing, arts and culture in the Centre for Arts and Design at Torontos George Brown College. For this issue, Sarah uncovered the booming mens jewellery trend (page 68), noting that its less about being an accessory and more a necessity and key to life-long style.

Ilia HorsburghFrom the red carpet of the Junos, to charity events, live concerts and intimate weddings across the globe, the scope of Ilias work is as diverse as her clients. Last year she turned her lens on the Canadian music scene documenting Indie greats like Hawksley Workman, Feist, Sarah Harmer, The Great Lake Swimmers and many more. Her clients range from CTV to Stuart McLean of CBCs Vinyl Cafe to Woodshed Studios, home of Canadas beloved band, Blue Rodeo. Ilia has produced two solo photography exhibitions in Ontario and she has been published nationwide. Check out her photographs of our cover story on Knar Jewellery on page 54.

Scan Me!august 2010

View an exclusive video preview of our annual Excellence In Design contest. Get a sneak peak at the enteries and interviews with industry-leading judges.To Scan the Code: For BlackBerry: Go to your BlackBerry messenger and select Scan Barcode. For iPhones: Use the App Stores to download Beetagg Reader Pro.

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productshowcase

The Peter Heim Collection The Peter Heim collection is the result of innovation in design, precision technology and superior hand-craftsmanship. With the promise of ultimate comfort engineered to put minimal pressure around the finger, this interaction of uncompromising passion for quality and perfection customise the finest gold, platinum and palladium alloys into stunning rings of beauty and understated elegance. A marriageof-metals tailored to suit unique refinements and last forever! For more information, write 150 on the Free Info Card on page 120.

Trollbeads Jewellery Trollbeads jewellery has been charming women around the world for more than 30 years. Unique, artisan quality beads that draw inspiration from nature, love, and life make it easy to create a custom, heirloom quality bracelet or necklace that tells your customers personal story. For more information, visit www. TrollbeadsCanada.com or call 905-326-5981. For more information, write 151 on the Free Info Card on page 120.

A Touch of Elegance Tecno Display introduces a full collection of pre-assembled and tempered glass jewelry cases. We are manufacturing quartervision showcases, sit downs, cash wraps, pedestals, shadow boxes, and wall showcases with the highest craftsmanship and attention to detail. Standard and custom-made showcases and designs are available. Tecno Display showcases are now available in Canada through Westmount Store Fixtures. Call 1-800-561-1951 for more information about Tecno Display. For more information, write 152 on the Free Info Card on page 120.

CHAMILIA. YOUR LIFE. YOUR STYLE. Presenting the new necklace and earring collection from Chamilia, a leader of innovative design in the jewelry category. Personalize these necklaces and earrings with combinations of Chamilias 500+ beads. Add the collection to your Chamilia bead line today. Contact Chamilia at: 1-800-495-0977 or customerrelations@ chamilia.com. For more information, write 153 on the Free Info Card on page 120.

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productshowcase

Pandora Crafted in 18 karat rose gold, this fall PANDORA introduces a new addition to the delicate and luxurious LovePods collection. Exquisite rings, pendants and bracelets accented with brilliantcut hand-set diamonds in a warm rose hue, perfectly complement the existing yellow and white 18 karat gold jewellery. Inspired by nature, LovePods lets women combine, unfold, and bloom as she creates an expression that is unique and elegant whether the pieces are worn alone, layered or stacked. Visit, Pandora.net. For more information, write 154 on the Free Info Card on page 120.

Personal Jewelry Insurance Order your free Jeweller Guide for a full explanation of the Personal Jewelry Insurance program from Jewelers Mutual Insurance Company, the only insurer that specializes exclusively in protecting jewellery and jewellery businesses in Canada* and the United States. (The Personal Jewelry Insurance program is not available in Quebec.) Also, be sure to order a supply of our newly designed consumer handout. Exclusively endorsed by the Canadian Jewellers Association, the American Gem Society, and the Manufacturing Jewelers and Suppliers of America. For more information, write 155 on the Free Info Card on page 120.

GIA Reports and Grading Systems GIA offers a suite of support tools designed to assist retailers in communicating the 4Cs: the International Diamond Grading System and the value of GIA Diamond Grading Reports. A report from GIA provides an expert analysis of the quality of a diamond based upon the 4Cs of diamond grading colour, cut, clarity, and carat weight. The report also includes a plotting diagram, which depicts the diamonds unique clarity characteristics, such as inclusions. In addition, since GIA is not affiliated with any commercial enterprise, the public is assured the worlds most impartial and accurate analysis of a diamond. For more information, write 156 on the Free Info Card on page 120.

Mirage Novas fashionable 18 karat white gold flower rings (pictured) studded in black and white diamonds totaling 3.96 carats and 5.61 carats respectively, are just part of a wide selection of stylish, trendy mid to high-end diamond jewellery available at Nova Diamonds. For more information feel free to contact Nova at (416) 868-6682. For more information, write 157 on the Free Info Card on page 120.

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productshowcase

Ed Hardy Brand Jewelry Designer Christian Audigier uses a unique marketing style for the Ed Hardy brand, focusing solely on net-working, getting many celebrities to wear the brand. 5,000 celebrities are quite loyal to this brand including: Madonna, David and Victoria Beckham, Paris Hilton, Britney Spears, Timbaland, Eva Longoria, Shakira, LilJon, Christina Aguilera and Jamie Foxx. The unique designs generate competitive advantage and stand out. There is a generation of positive publicity for the Ed Hardy brand that has equal appeal to both men and women. Ed Hardys target market consists largely of men and women looking to define themselves by making a statement about their lifestyle that is fast. They are very style-conscious, and happily spend their money for trendy, upscale brands. This brand is now available in Canada through the exclusive distributor: Voskiem Inc. Tel: 514-875-8675, www.edhardyjewelry. ca, email: [email protected]. For more information, write 158 on the Free Info Card on page 120.

IN PURSUIT OF THE ULTIMATE ACCURACY IN TIMEKEEPING, BULOVA INTRODUCES PRECISIONIST. Bulova introduces Precisionist, the worlds most accurate watch with a continuous sweeping second hand. With the launch of Precisionist, Bulova blends technology, design and style; utilizing the sweeping second hand as a visual symbol for the movements extraordinary precision. The technology is accurate to 10 seconds per year as compared to most other quartz watches, which are accurate to fifteen seconds per month. For more information, please contact: Mr. Steve Taylor, President, Bulova Watch Company Limited 416-751-7151. For more information, write 159 on the Free Info Card on page 120.

Ottimo Fendi is pleased to announce the introduction of Crazy Carats, an elegant yet whimsical timepiece; a masterpiece of innovation, design, and Swiss Made craftsmanship with a fanciful touch. The first of its kind, the polished stainless steel case has two crowns; one for adjusting the time, the other for rotating the index gemstones, Crazy Carats has a patented, truly unique mechanism which allows a woman to change the gemstones on her watch simply by turning the crown. Three different settings for three distinctive gemstone color stories using Diamonds, Rubies, Sapphires and multi-colored Topaz. The gemstones total approximately 3 carats for the oversized piece and 1 carats for the small. Bezels adorned with Top Wesselton VVS quality diamonds is also an option. Accompanied by a supple polished stainless steel bracelet and FF logo butterfly deployant buckle, Crazy Carats by Fendi establishes an unprecedented integration of jewelry and timepiece technology. For more information, write 161 on the Free Info Card on page 120.

STORM LONDON Attack of the Darth! Pay homage to cult classic Star Wars and embrace the Darth invasion from STORM. This Special Edition watch combines a space-age look with cutting edge design. The Darth features a futuristic domed face that displays the time via a three-disc hand mechanism, all whilst being water resistant up to 50m. You dont have to be a Star Wars fan to triumph in your own style wars with the Darth from STORM. For more information, write 160 on the Free Info Card on page 120.

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productshowcase

Siffaris Signature Collection A tradition in excellence continues with Siffaris Signature Collection. Manufactured entirely in Canada, Siffari has combined unique design and detailed craftsmanship in this stunning collection. Featured here is a 14K two-tone gold ring with 0.21 cts of natural yellow diamonds and 0.61 cts of white diamonds. For more information, write 162 on the Free Info Card on page 120.

Hush Puppies Celebrating 40 years. This Hush Puppies watch features a stainless steel case and a genuine leather band, with an AGS (Automatic Generating System) movement, this movement comes with a battery that recharges itself with regular wear much as an automatic watch. This watch also features a clear case back so that you could see the motion of the AGS recharging. For more information, write 163 on the Free Info Card on page 120.

BFly silver Kids collection BFLY is launching a NEW silver birthstone collection for kids. Nice quality products with rhodium plating. This very affordable collection includes the pendants with 14" chains, rings & the stud earrings with their patented safety clutches. You can now offer both silver and gold settings to your customers! For more information, write 164 on the Free Info Card on page 120.

Polar Gem Polar Gem is the first Eco-friendly Canadian diamond collection featuring renewed gold, with an identifiable diamond source, guaranteed by a mine of origin certificate. The Polar Gem is the perfect round brilliant diamond, cut to ideal proportions and symmetry, with perfectly aligned facets, creating a flamelike quality reaching the highest level for a diamond polished, with one of a kind phenomenon of sparkle and light hearts and arrows. For more information, write 165 on the Free Info Card on page 120.

Breanna collection: Breanna represents the women who believes she is special as she is. Determined, passionate about life, design and perfection, Breanna is what every woman wants to be. She has found the love of her life and now needs to choose The Ring. But how to find the perfect ring in a crowded market place where everyone claims to have the perfect ring for you. That is why we designed the Breanna Collection. A collection where every model is unique. Every future bride will find a ring that will fit her personality and taste. Come to the world of Breanna and join the women who enjoys the beauty and quality of this magnificent collection. For more information, write 166 on the Free Info Card on page 120.

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productshowcase

CHIAMPESAN This company has a concept that summarizes almost 50 Years of Values that Chiampeasan has never lost sight of. Beauty, elegance and Style are the corner stone for all its activities. To create jewels that can be worn in any occasion. All 18 KT and real stones. For more information, write 167 on the Free Info Card on page 120.

Introducing: Contemporary Metals Stullers inaugural line of contemporary metal jewelry is poised to drive store sales with affordable price points and eye-catching designs. Contemporary metal jewelry selection includes patentpending dura tungsten, titanium, ceramics and stainless steel. Bracelets, earrings, cufflinks, necklaces, watches and rings will be available for purchase in late August. For more information, write 168 on the Free Info Card on page 120.

LOW COST LUXURY quality for less Low Cost Luxury is proud to present featured collections such as Tasha collection, Annies collection, black and champagne collection, pearls with diamonds collection and many more of our newest arrivals. One stop shop for all your needs. For more information, write 169 on the Free Info Card on page 120.

JSN Diamonds Sparkle JSN is one of Canadas leading jewellery manufacturers with an arsenal of five brands that range from entry-level product to a fully-certified premium Canadian diamond line. With offices in Canada, the United Kingdom and the United States, along with a plant in Bangkok, Thailand, JSN has achieved a high level of recognition on the international stage. For more information, write 170 on the Free Info Card on page 120.

Plastic is Chic... PlastiChic, the original Italian line of ultra stylish, silicone watches, has arrived in Canada! Plastichic is the hottest fashion craze in Europe with a cult following and an attractive price point that translates into high volume retail sales. The colourful, affordable, watches are available in 19 of the seasons hottest colours and come in unique test tube packaging. PlastiChic provides retailers with eye catching displays that drive impulse sales. For more information please email [email protected] or call 416 409 3855. For more information, write 171 on the Free Info Card on page 120.w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o maugust 2010

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whosnews

Find out who is making headlines in the jewellery industry.40th Anniversary for Kirsten Ross The Goldsmiths in CalgaryCJ is proud to announce that Calgary-based e Goldsmiths is celebrating 40 years in business. Owner Kirsten Ross was 17 when she decided to embark upon an apprenticeship as a goldsmith in Odense, Denmark. Its been a long journey, noting her male counterparts challenged her from the start, subjecting her to jobs like pulling wire up in a hot attic, or running to fetch them beer, which required climbing up and down a long ight of stairs, or the long arduous task of polishing tools. A er graduation, she worked for two other jewellers before establishing the Goldsmiths with her partner in 1969. e Goldsmiths began at a modest location in the LeesonLineham building and acted as a wholesaler for other stores. Its current location (on 14th Street) is where e Goldsmiths has been for the past 19 years. At 69, Kirsten still works at the bench to create unique jewellery pieces with skill and style. Her business is now family-run, with daughters Tina Ross and Debra Dedyluk and a team of designers and goldsmiths. Congratulations.

Davidsons Jewellers Raises Over $3,000Ottawa-based Davidsons Jewellers held the rst-ever Diamond Dash to raise nds for Juvenile Diabetics Research Foundation (JDRF), CJAs 2009 and 2010 national charity partner. Over 500 participants braved the weather for a chance at a $15,000 Simon G. engagement ring. It was a high-tech scavenger hunt played entirely from the participants cell phones. It sent teams running around downtown Ottawa, solving riddles and answering challenges. While only one couple could ultimately walk away with the diamond ring, it was the JDRF that really came out on top. e Diamond Dash raised $3,022.86 for JDRF. As part of the National Jewellers Charity Program, the Canadian Jewellers Association will match the contributions raised by its members to a maximum of $10,000.

Suzann Petterson.

Top Golfer Suzann Petterson Joins TAG HeuerNorwegian golf champion Suzann Pettersen has recently joined the power pool of ambassadors for the Swiss brand. Petterson, currently the number-three womens golf player in the world, noted she loves the brand and feels strongly associated with its quality, performance and environmental responsibilities. Like TAG Heuers other female ambassador, tennis superstar Maria Sharapova, Petterson recognizes herself in the sporty yet sophisticated message the brand wants to convey. For Suzann, a watch is a necessary piece of jewellery and an expression of who you are. Shell be representing her favourite models: the Link model with diamonds, and Lady Aquaracer in steel and gold.

Chef Mario Batali Teams Up with Ernst BenzSwiss watch manufacturer Ernst Benz has partnered with iconic chef and restaurateur Mario Batali to create a limited-edition series of timepieces to bene t the Food Bank For New York City. e Mario Batali Limited Edition Ernst Benz Great Circle Automatic is an enhanced version of the original design, featuring accents in Batalis standout signature orange colour. Batali collaborated with Leonid Khankin, managing director of the Ernst Benz, to design the timepieces. My partnership with Ernst Benz is borne out of my love to celebrate life with simple things of the highest quality. is new watch created by my friend Leonid Khankin is exactly that, says Batali. [CJ]

World Gold Council Appoints Lead Marketing of JewelleryDavid Lamb is the new Managing Director of Jewellery. Lamb will be responsible for the strategic development of the gold jewellery market worldwide with a particular focus in building the U.S. market. He will be a member of the WGCs leadership team and will report directly to Aram Shishmanian, CEO of the WGC. Prior to his appointment to the WGC, Lamb was an executive director of the Diamond Trading Company, the sales and marketing arm of De Beers, as worldwide marketing director and subsequently chief strategy o cer, credited with signi cantly increasing consumer demand for diamond jewellery.

Kirsten Ross.

The Mario Batali watch.

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Diamonds are not shown to scale

ONeill Diamonds Inc.#622-736 Granville St. Vancouver, B.C. V6Z 1G3For details, write #113 on Free Info Page, page 120.

Phone: 604-909-0818 Fax: 604-909-0272 T-Free: 1866-9ONeill(662-455)

www.caratsmart.ca

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fortherecord

news | trends | eventsRaymond Weil parts ways with Cloriano for in-house distribution Cloriano in Montreal has been the distributor for Raymond Weil watches in Canada for decades. When speaking with Raymond Weil CEO Olivier Bernheim, he noted: Recently it appeared to us that the time had come for a more personal commitment. We felt that in order to achieve new objectives regarding the brands development and sustainable growth in Canada, this was the necessary change. In addition, it is the natural evolution for a company whose leitmotif is Independence is a state of mind. Distribution will be handled out of the Raymond Weil Genve US office by a dedicated Olivier Bernheim Canadian team. Watches will be available to the market and press via the New York office. Mr. Chahinian will no longer be an authorized representative for the brand. The Canadian market will be represented by the following: Pierre Bernheim, director of international sales and grandson of Raymond Weil; Daniel Lepage, general sales agent; and Dan Lewis, western sales agent. Between them, Daniel Lepage and Dan Lewis have 22 years of experience with Raymond Weil. The establishment of our structure for Canada will allow for more direct communication, a better understanding of global initiatives, more proximity, reactivity and develop a concrete foundation on which to build our long-term partnerships, said Bernheim, adding Any changes [to delivery, shipment and payment terms] will only be based on the necessity to enhance service and support. Diamond Butterfly to Go on DisplayThe Aurora Diamond Butterfly of Peace, an artwork containing 240 fancy-coloured diamonds in the form of a butterfly, will serve as one of the signature objects in All That Glitters: The Splendor and Science of Gems and Minerals, an exhibit at the San Diego Natural History Museum. The Aurora Diamond Butterfly of Peace was created by diamond dealer and artist Alan Bronstein as a symbol of the soul and positive transformation and includes matched pairs of yellow, orange, pink, blue, green and violet diamonds. The artwork really comes to life under ultraviolet light many of the pieces are fluorescent. The exhibit will run until April 2012.

TechnoMarine Relaunches with New Cruise Sport CollectionThe relaunch of luxury sports watch company TechnoMarine has moved into full swing with the launch of its first collection, Cruise Sport. The line was modeled after the brands iconic Cruise model that includes Original, Sport, Steel and Ceramic versions. The first watch to hit stores will be the Cruise Sport, a colourful watch with a silicone strap, water resistant up to 200 metres and available in chronograph and three-hand options. The timepieces are also customizable, with an interchangeable strap and case cover system.

EQC Welcomes First Member in FranceThe European Quality Circle (EQC) has accepted its first member from France. Jewellery retail company Verhoeven Jewellers in Dunkerque, France was issued a membership by the EQC, a consumer-oriented organization aimed at assisting those within the jewellery industry with market success. Family run Verhoeven Jewellers is also part of the Cercle International de Joaillerie, a group of highend French jewellers, of which the firms principal Eric Verhoeven serves as president.

1. Parisfal Mens: Automatic chronograph, 18ct pink gold and steel case, 41.4 mm diameter, back full-skin alligator strap. 2. Freelancer Mens: Automatic Chronograph, stainless steel case, 42mm diameter, Brown leather strap. 1. 2.

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The Trendy Group 905-326-5981 [email protected] details, write #114 on Free Info Page, page 120.

TrollbeadsCanada.com

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fortherecordWJA Announces WinnersDIVA 2010 Design Competition Yilin Choo of Choo Yilin Artisan Jewellery in Singapore and Holly Hosterman of Holly Yashi in California came out on top in the New Dawn themed WJA DIVA 2010 Design Competition. The competition, which was created to promote and encourage jewellery design by women, awards first place winners with a cash prize of US$500. Choo won in the Daytime and Evening Jewels categories while Hosterman took home honours in New Media Jewels.

Triton Introduces New Mens Jewellery Line Mens jewellery company Triton, a division of Frederick Goldman Inc., has introduced White Tungsten Carbide, a new collection of mens wedding bands. Made from tungsten carbide, the rings are subjected to a three-stage finishing process that gives them a bright white colour. Each ring in the White Tungsten Carbide collection is covered by the Forever Fit limited warranty that promises to resize or replace the ring if the original owners ring size should change, at no additional charge.MCD Pearls Ad layout 7/15/10

Damiani and John Galliano in Talks to Create Jewellery Collection

Italian jewellers Damiani and British designer John Galliano are in talks to create a namesake jewellery line together for the eccentric designer. The jewellery companys CEO Guido Damiani has confirmed the talks but said that 10:17 AM nothing 1 official. Page is

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cjAug10_FCD_Bulova_Ad.indd 1

7/22/10 1:14:28 PM

fortherecordMovado to Shutter Retail Boutiques Despite 25% Net Sales Increase in Q1Movado Group Inc. has announced that its retail subsidiary, Movado Retail Group Inc., closed its retail boutique division on June 30, despite the fact that the Swiss luxury watch company experienced a 25 per cent increase in net sales for the first quarter. The company said this move is an attempt to streamline the business, redirect investment toward higher return businesses and improve the companys overall profitability. [CJ]

stock indexCompany Name Stock Exchange Price Symbol 04/18/10 Price 06/10/10 % 52-Week 52-Week Change High Low Last Quarter P/E Revenue ($Millions) Ratio Market Cap ($Millions)

Precious MetalsAgnico-Eagle Mines Alamos Gold Anglogold Ashanti Ltd. Barrick Gold Corp. Eldorado Gold First Quantum Minerals Gammon Gold Gold Fields Ltd. (ADR) Goldcorp Inc. Iamgold Corp. Ivanhoe Mines Kinross Gold Lundin Mining Newmont Mining Northgate Minerals Corp. Pan American Silver PolyMet Mining Corp. Red Back Mining Inc. Silver Wheaton Southern Copper Corp. Taseko Mines Ltd. Teck Resources Ltd. Yamana Gold Inc. AEM AGI AU ABX ELD FM GAM GFI G IMG IVN K LUN NEM NGX PAA POM RBI SLW SCCO TKO TCK.B YRI TSX TSX NYSE TSX NYSE TSX TSX NYSE TSX NYSE TSX NYSE TSX TSX TSX TSX NYSE TSX TSX TSX TSX TSX NYSE TSX TSX TSX TSX $60.380 $14.190 $38.580 $39.650 $31.600 $13.760 $78.730 $81.180 $7.030 $12.570 $39.440 $9.380 $15.180 $18.410 $17.940 $5.230 $52.150 $3.030 $25.220 $2.350 $23.830 $17.500 $33.270 $6.090 $42.670 $13.430 $10.220 $61.500 $15.420 $42.450 $44.230 $38.700 $17.570 $55.440 $64.360 $8.090 $13.480 $45.200 $9.740 $17.430 $14.300 $17.950 $3.650 $56.110 $3.120 $26.090 $1.450 $88.980 $27.400 $19.700 $30.050 $5.170 $34.190 $9.200 $10.960 1.85% 8.67% 10.03% 11.55% 22.47% 27.69% -29.58% -20.72% 15.08% 7.24% 14.60% 3.84% 14.82% -22.32% 0.06% -30.21% 7.59% 2.97% 3.45% -38.30% 11.34% 14.98% 12.57% -9.68% -15.11% -19.87% -31.50% 7.24% $77.320 $16.100 $47.520 $50.530 $42.690 $18.930 $100.320 $90.550 $13.190 $15.880 $48.370 $12.050 $21.950 $18.980 $25.220 $5.770 $59.575 $3.700 $28.970 $3.890 $91.750 $28.900 $21.930 $36.980 $6.190 $46.920 $16.500 $15.000 $53.160 $8.530 $32.770 $35.500 $20.810 $8.830 $48.200 $43.190 $6.610 $10.620 $35.120 $8.340 $9.990 $5.680 $17.180 $2.650 $36.770 $2.120 $19.450 $1.270 $55.060 $8.200 $8.310 $18.460 $1.630 $16.500 $8.480 $9.350 $237.6 $46.7 $1,108.0 $2,561.0 $187.6 $181.5 $562.8 $4,363.0 $68.2 $1,102.0 $750.3 $336.0 $240.1 $10.0 $657.6 $141.7 $2,242.0 $125.3 $132.4 $0.0 $122.5 $110.0 $90.6 $1,219.4 $75.5 $1,900.0 $127.8 $346.3 170.97 28.09 27 14.46 12.91 52.35 7.31 8.73 792 13.98 26.16 29.55 52.5 N/A 35 17.05 17.37 33 31.67 N/A 24.11 53.76 49.1 21.43 11.02 7.81 4.98 42.52 9,762.74 1,790.87 16,397.45 43,870.16 9,785.76 9,627.92 4,494.89 27,956.91 1,085.12 9,463.78 33,141.89 4,163.88 6,784.15 6,168.99 12,550.07 2,127.78 27,170.44 892.83 2,805.16 226.45 7,990.12 6,378.01 6,876.15 25,976.00 960.15 20,587.74 1,316.74 8,109.11

Compania Minas Buenaventu BVN

Please note:

Freeport-McMoRan Copper&Gold FCX

We would like to point out that all the images used in the Lights, Camera, Action, Jewellery design feature on page 77 of our June/July issue are courtesy of Cary James at CONTACT Design (www.contactdesign.ca) in Gravenhurst, Ont.

Harmony Gold Mining Co. (ADR) HMY

Randgold Resources Ltd. (ADR) GOLD

Nasdaq $79.920

Thompson Creek Metals Co. Inc. TCM

GeMstonesAnglo American PLC Azure Resources Corp. BHP Billiton Ltd. BRC DiamondCore Diamond Fields Intl. Diamond North Resources Dios Exploration Equinox Minerals Ltd. Harry Winston Diamond Peregrine Diamonds Ltd. Rio Tinto PLC Sanatana Diamonds Inc. Shear Minerals Ltd. Starfield Resources Inc. Stornoway Diamond AAUKY OTC AZU BHP BCD DFI DDN DOS EQN HW PGD RTP STA SRM SRU SWY TGX VALE TSX-V NYSE TSX TSX TSX-V TSX-V TSX TSX TSX TSX NYSE TSX-V TSX-V TSX TSX TSX-V NYSE $22.290 $0.120 $79.190 $0.130 $0.085 $0.255 $0.345 $4.070 $10.460 $2.120 $2.270 $58.743 $0.120 $0.060 $0.090 $0.630 $0.085 $33.460 $19.280 $0.100 $65.460 $0.180 $0.170 $0.200 $0.320 $3.860 $13.710 $2.460 $2.010 $48.180 $0.080 $0.055 $0.075 $0.520 $0.080 $26.640 -13.50% -16.67% -17.34% 38.46% 100.00% -21.57% -7.25% -5.16% 31.07% 16.04% -11.45% -17.98% -33.33% -8.33% -16.67% -17.46% -5.88% -20.38% $23.550 $0.155 $83.200 $0.210 $0.300 $0.395 $0.375 $4.680 $14.020 $3.310 $4.650 $62.243 $0.250 $0.120 $0.220 $0.800 $0.215 $34.710 $12.320 $0.080 $49.070 $0.020 $0.040 $0.125 $0.085 $1.980 $5.360 $1.510 $0.540 $30.000 $0.055 $0.040 $0.070 $0.105 $0.070 $15.580 N/A $0.0 N/A $0.0 $0.8 N/A N/A 179.86 $133.7 $0.0 0 $0.0 N/A N/A $0.0 $0.0 N/A $6,848.0 19.83 5 N/A N/A N/A N/A 5.82 21.61 N/A N/A 8.28 N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A 51,430.00 8.37 12.96 7.98 15.61 10.30 2,766.37 1,095.22 159.51 173.85 47,148.60 4.39 4.84 39.14 136.74 6.35 19.89 109,616.87

Mountain Province Diamonds MPV


True North Gems Vale (ADR)

6.9 130,554.90

Jewellers & retailersBirks and Mayors Fossil Inc. Sears Canada Signet Group Tiffany and Co. Wal-Mart Zale Corp. BMJ FOSL SCC SIG TIF WMT ZLC AMEX TSX NYSE NYSE NYSE NYSE $0.980 $28.600 $33.980 $50.200 $54.110 $3.240 $1.250 $38.540 $24.710 $30.800 $43.640 $51.220 $2.300 27.55% -6.16% -13.60% -9.36% -13.07% -5.34% -29.01% $6.200 $43.420 $30.130 $34.380 $52.190 $56.270 $8.510 $0.330 $21.090 $19.400 $17.570 $23.850 $47.350 $1.800 N/A $393.2 $1,067.0 $810.0 $633.9 $99,848.0 $359.8 N/A 17.06 11.46 12.02 18.64 N/A 14.24 2,606.75 2,652.86 2,672.19 5,511.43 76.10 Nasdaq $41.070

13.59 190,784.00

coMModitiesGold Silver Platinum Palladium COMX COMX NYME COMX $1,217.100 $18.250 $1,536.800 $450.700

*This selection of securities is not to be interpreted as a solicitation and companies are not endorsed by Rive Gauche Media.

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7/22/10 10:59:18 AM

miningnewsXstrata Workers Reach Tentative Labour AgreementUnionized workers at Xstratas metal refinery in Montreal have reached a tentative threeyear labour contract agreement with the international mining group just three days before their current contract was due to expire. The refinery produces nearly one-million ounces of gold a year as well as some silver, and receives feed from Xstrata smelters in Canada, Chile and Vales Canadian Operations. The last round of talks, which took place in 2007, broke down and resulted in a one-month strike.

Hinterland Metals Begins Exploration on Ballarat PropertyHinterlands Metals Inc., a mineral exploration company engaged in the acquisition, exploration, and development of mineral resources, has begun exploration on the Ballarat gold property. The Ballarat property is located 100km west of Dawson City in the White Gold district of Yukon on a stretch of land with a good historical cumulative gold production in the period 1913 to 2006.

Lake Shore Gold, Northern Superior Close Ti-P-Haa-Kaa-Ning DealLake Shore Gold Corp. and Northern Superior Resources Inc. have closed the sale of Lake Shore Golds 50 per cent ownership on the Ti-pa-haa-kaa-ning Joint Venture to Northern Superior. In return Lake Shore Gold will receive 25,000,000 common shares of Northern Superior from the treasury and warrants to purchase 12,500,000 Northern Superior common shares at $0.30 per share for five years as well as other considerations. With the completion of the deal, Lake Shore Gold owns 25,075,000 common shares of Northern Superior will hold a total of 37,575,000 common shares, representing a 27.19 per cent interest in Northern Superior.

Gammon Gold Pays $8-Million for Stake in Golden QueenPrivate mid-tier gold and silver producer Gammon Gold Inc. has paid $8-million for a stake in Golden Queen, a southern California gold and silver property. Halifax-based Gammon purchased shares and warrants in the junior mining company Golden Queen. Each share Gammon purchased equals one Golden Queen share with each unit price at $1.60. Gammon will also hold about 5.3 per cent of Golden Queens issued and outstanding shares, or 7.5 per cent on a fully diluted basis, and will also have the right to participate in future Golden Queen financings to maintain its proportionate share holding.

Manicouagan Elects New Board of Directors MemberManicouagan Minerals Inc. has elected Claude Britt to its board of directors. Britt, the former vice president of exploration of Pangea Goldfields Inc., has been active in the mineral exploration industry and has international experience including positions in Silidor mine in Rouyn Noranda, the Tulawaka and Buzwagi mines in Tanzania and the Pukakaka Sur deposit in Peru.

Greystar Resources EIA Reinstated, Shares Jump 40%Vancouver-based Greystar Resources Ltd. saw its shares jump by more than 40 per cent on May 31 after the company announced their appeal to reinstate the environmental impact assessment (EIA) for its flagship gold and silver project in Colombia was successful. The Canadian mining companys EIA for the Angostura project was reversed after new mining legislation was passed, but Greystar appealed and won.

Laurion Mineral to Begin Sturgeon Property Diamond DrillinLaurion Mineral Exploration Inc. is set to begin the 2010 diamond drill and exploration program on its Sturgeon River Property. Laurion is also planning to complete comprehensive sampling of the waste rock pile on the property and a program of hollow auger sampling in order to extract the contained ounces of gold. The Sturgeon property is located in the Irwin, Pifher, Walters and Elmhirst Townships of the BeardmoreGeraldton Gold Camp in Ontario. [CJ]For details, write #119 on Free Info Page, page 120w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o maugust 2010

Globex-Savant Hit Gold on Parbec Property on First DrilGlobex Mining Enterprise Inc. announced that Savant Exporations Ltd. has hit gold on its first drill hole on the Parbec property in Malartic Township, Que. The first hole on the Parbec property tested, the Camp Zone, intersected at 19.25g/t Au, while the second zone was intersected 150 metres further down in what is called the North Veins.

CJ

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techfeature

Ethical TechWhen you consider ethics in the use of technology, two main concerns come to mind: sustainability and privacy.B y A mBer KlAehn

I

ncreasingly, sustainable business practice is considered a standard of good citizenship, and customers expect it. Technology is key to sustainable practice. Consider the ways software enables the retailer to reduce its paper-use: A POS system allows the retailer to create and store client profiles online personal information, buying history, preferences and so on. It also allows you to input orders, track repairs and manage inventory. Todays software solutions are designed for ease-of-use and can be customized for specific needs. The more record keeping you do online, the greater the reduction in use of paper. You need only print a hard copy as required rather than as a matter of course. Another paper-saving benefit of technology is in marketing online. Marketing materials such as catalogues, direct mailing promotions and invitations to special events can all be created and posted online, or emailed to client lists. In addition to being a green approach, there are substantial savings on expensive printing costs. Consumers are also more and more likely to shop online, looking at product lines and ideas. As the retailer, you can print product pages on demand when there is a need for catalogue-type information or takeaways. With direct-mail promotions and invitations, technology allows you to see who is opening your mail. This helps you better target future promotions and to evaluate the effectiveness of different approaches and promotions. Going one step further with technology, using Software as a Service (SaaS) business owners share a common software source online, which reduces the need for individual copies of programs. The benefits go beyond more efficient store management. Sustainability is a selling benefit. More and more customers are looking to do business with companies they see as being ethical in their environmental responsibility. Privacy underscores all this sustainable practice based on the use of technology. This is especially true in any business that is based on clientrelationship and trust. It is particularly important for the jewellery retailer who captures highly personal data: details on the client and

family members, special occasions such as birthdays and anniversary dates, purchase history, credit card information and so on. The retailer needs to warrant that information is kept confidential and that it is securely stored. If you dont already have one, you may want to consider developing a privacy policy for your business, that includes a confidentiality agreement that all employees must read and sign. Part of the privacy policy could include restricting access to client information to certain levels of staff or to categorizing clients to higher or lesser degrees of need for privacy, depending on the extent of personal information that you are collecting. A good privacy policy would make it clear that employees may not discuss any private information they may be privy to. Nor may they use client information for anything other than business related to the jewellery store. Not only is this essential, good business practice but also it is law. Privacy legislation dictates how personal information can be used. Clients have the right to request records on files related to them and to how their information is used. One of the ways the retailer can build client trust is to let clients know that privacy and confidentiality policies are in place. Another key element is to let clients know that your business systems work on the highest level of security. Ensure that your software is PA-DSS certified, so that all personal information, including credit card detail is securely handled and stored. Part of the privacy issue is being careful about not spamming clients. Use email and Twitter or any other electronic messaging judiciously. Technology has opened up a new world of communication but it is important to have a planned approach to client contact. As technology continues to develop and evolve at a fast pace and as it is increasingly used for efficient and sustainable business practice, so will new ethical issues arise. A proactive approach to putting privacy and security policies in place will send a clear message to your clients that yours is an ethical business worthy of their trust and patronage. [CJ]

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New from Italy and Now in Canada

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benchfeature

A broken 50mm camera lens can be used as a huge 10x loupe.

My favourite tip: a carbide int wheel from a disposable lighter makes a great rotary le and texturing burr.

Bargain HuntersSaving dollars on equipment can be really helpful to a shops bottom line. Often, tools and equipment from other industries prove useful, and are sometimes cheaper than regular tool suppliers. Some call this scrounging, although more professional terms include upcyling and repurposing.BY CHARLES LEWTON-BRAINhen looking outside the jewellery world for tools and equipment, there are a number of basic principles to keep in mind. Describe the problem you want to solve and then look for industries that have the same problem. Look for patterns; if something looks like something else there is probably a relationship. For instance, if you need to remove dust that you generate while working, visit an aestheticians shop where they grind acrylic nails and have to remove the dust and keep it out of the air: they have mesh-topped vacuum boxes for this purpose. Another example is Aquaplast, a wonderful plastic material that turns into so putty in hot water and hardens sti y at room temperature just like pitch. It can replace pitch and shellac in stone setting, and can be used to make handles, so jaws for pliers and so on. Do you remember friendly plastic? It is the same material, and works the same way. And so does the sheet material used to make lightweight casts for broken limbs. You may be able to get some from a hospital worker friend. It is important to shi categories that is, to look at how you (and other people) class things in your mind and see if you can break out of that putting-things-into-mental-boxes behavior. An example is chasing tools, which sell as high as $60 for ve on eBay while wooden boxes of 80-100 watchmakers staking tools (the same hardened and tempered steel, same thing as chasing tools, and easily altered to suit ones purpose) sell for $25. Watchmakers tools are classed as obsolete and only for xing watches, but shi mental categories and that box is worth a pile. If you were to sell those 80 tools as chasing tools they would fetch over $500.

W

A vital principle is looking for someone (or some industry) who uses so much of something they do not value it. ere are numerous examples of this. The int wheel from an older-style disposable lighter is a great carbide steel burr that jewellers might otherwise pay several dollars for. For lighters, they are made in such quantities that they can be produced incredibly cheaply. When the lighter is empty, the top can be pried apart and the int wheel placed on a standard screw mandrel for the exible shaft to obtain a carbide burr. It works like a rotary le for ling edges, texturing and coarse metal removal. Dry pickling acid (you know the ubiquitous brand I mean) is almost the same as sodium bisulfate, which is commonly sold as swimming pool acid and used to change the pH of swimming pools and hot tubs. It is far less expensive there than at the jewellery supply store ($1.50 for the same amount you would normally pay $6 for) It is also the main ingredient in most toilet bowl cleaners, and can be bought very cheaply in drums as an industrial toilet bowl cleaner. If you know someone who works in an institution (jail, school, factory, etc.) they have large oor polishing machines with giant scotch brite pads on the bottom. When they think the pads are worn out, they are still good for our use, and even better are the round discs they punch out and throw away from the middles of the pad when they are mounted on the machine. Sti en up the center with a little epoxy and they are essentially the same scotch brite discs for the polishing machine for which jewellers pay up to $8 each.

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TM

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We can nd vibratory tumblers cheaper at gun shops than at jewellery suppliers (there are lots more gunners than jewellers), and they are generally about 30 per cent cheaper. Delrin metal forming hammers used for anticlastic raising and metalsmithing often run $38 at jewellery suppliers, but cost only $17 at auto body supply stores, as they are used to x dents in cars. There are a lot more auto body folks out there than jewellers. Additional examples from the auto industry include waxes and transparent paints that protect metal surfaces, designed for expansion and contraction, extremes of temperature, acidic rain and ultraviolet light in short, an ideal, long-lasting nish for certain metal objects. In the same way, Nicholas Lacquer, beloved by people who use patinas and metal colouring, is found most easily in music stores, as it is used universally on high school marching band instruments as the longest lasting nish a brutal testing ground for a product. It must be good. Garden potassium sulfur solutions (sometimes called lime sulfur spray) can be used to oxidize silver surfaces much like liver of sulfur does, as can photographers selenium print toner solution (contains selenic acid, basically the same as most gun-bluing and brass black type solutions). A source for titanium wire with which to make great soldering picks is your local high-tech bike shop. They use titanium spokes, and usually have bent ones for free. One can buy round leather dog chews in dierent diameters at the pet store, cut them in half, drill through them and mount an appropriatesized hammer handle in them to make very inexpensive, good-quality leather mallets, particularly in the small sizes. Look for a chew that is solid all the way through, as some will have cavities in them. Two dollars gets you three small mallets. Round puck-shaped chews make a good chasing hammer. Use a 50mm camera lens as a giant, high-quality loupe for working with. You can pick one up for free or cheaply from a camera shop if the iris diaphragm inside is broken. The optics are great on such a lens, and the eld of view is large. Electroplaters are just DC current. You can use kids model racing car and train transformers for plating ($5 at a ea market) or even a battery charger ($10 at a ea market). A really good plater is a used high-tech regulated power supply from eBay ($65). This is normally used for electronics applications.A toy train or car transformer makes a very effective electroplater.

A chasing hammer made from a rawhide dog chew on a drumstick handle. The circular shape lets you hammer at different angles, so you dont have to have your elbow high in the air is normal with a standard chasing hammer.

Aquaplast and Jetsett are thermoplastics that replace pitch.

So, providing you take care not to endanger yourself, substituting one thing for another or scrounging can be really helpful in dropping that overhead over the long haul. [CJ]

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O T T I M O C R E AT I O N S I N C . 1 - 8 0 0 - 3 6 3 - 0 1 7 8 , T W S T E E L - WAT C H E S @ O T T I M O C R E AT I O N S . C O M , W W W. T W S T E E L . C O M

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Moving ForwardPDAC 2010 The Ring of Fire and the Rebirth of Ontario Mining.BY STAN SUDOLhe mood at the annual Prospectors and Developers Association of Canada (PDAC) convention in Toronto was de nitely more upbeat and promising than last year. As the worlds major economies start to recover from last years market crash and the collapse of commodity prices, most observers agree that Chinas insatiable appetite for metals will continue. The March convention is the worlds premiere event for mineral exploration and development professionals. ese include representatives of major and small-to-medium-sized junior exploration and mining companies, technical experts, government o cials, prospectors, mine nanciers and investors, just to name a few of the participants. The Investors Exchange allows hundreds of mineral exploration companies to gather under one roof to promote their projects, many of them prospective diamond and gold properties, and allows the average shareholder in a junior mining company to talk to the presidents and nd out rst-hand the facts. is is the largest and sometimes one of the most notorious conventions in Toronto. Twenty years ago, when it was still held at the Royal York Hotel, a mining promoter was murdered by an angry creditor. e longest reigning PDAC president, Viola MacMillan, was charged with insider trading during the infamous Windfall Scandal of 1964. (MacMillan served seven weeks in jail before being released on parole. Many feel she

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was a scapegoat and was eventually cleared of all charges. She is now in the Canadian Mining Hall of Fame.) In 1997, Bre-X Minerals chief geologist, John Felderhof, was presented with the Prospector of the Year Award for the discovery of the worlds biggest gold deposit in Busang, Indonesia. He gave it back once it became known that someone added gold to the core samples, turning the entire a air into the largest gold swindle in mining history. Without a doubt, Ontarios mining sector was one of the top discussions at this years PDAC, held March 7-10. e Ring of Fire mining camp, located in the muskeg swamps of the James Bay lowlands, 500km northeast of under Bay, has almost single handedly heralded the rebirth of Ontario mining industry. For the 21st century, the discovery of chromite in the Ring of Fire could be as big as the discovery of nickel was in Sudbury in the 19th century, the recent Ontario Budget speech boldly claimed. We are fully committed to working with Aboriginal Peoples and Northern Ontarians to build on the Ring of Fires potential. Tentative plans by Cleveland-based iron ore producer, Cli s Natural Resource, call for a $1.3-billion investment, including a concentrator, ferrochrome processing facility and a $600-million, 350-kilometre rail line in the north.

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miningfeatureChromite, when smelted into ferrochromium alloys, is used in the production of stainless steel. There are no chromite mines in North America. Thousands of construction jobs and promise of full-time employment for many Aboriginal communities in the north are welcome news to a region and province facing high unemployment and record budget deficits. Not since the heady gold-rush days of the Hemlo discoveries in the early 1980s, has a mining development so influenced Ontario economics and politics. At a luxurious gala held at the Fairmont Royal York Hotel the mining sectors version of the Academy Awards the five men responsible for the Ring of Fire were given the prestigious PDAC Prospectors of the Year Award. Recognized for the significant base-metals and chromite discoveries in Northern Ontarios Ring of Fire were: John D. Harvey, mining consultant; Donald Hoy, former Freewests VP Exploration; Richard Nemis, previous president and CEO Noront Resources; Neil D. Novak, president and CEO, Spider Resources; and Mac Watson, former Freewest president and CEO. Sudbury-born Richard Nemis said, My heart will always belong to Northern Ontario. It gives me great pleasure to see the potentially enormous economic boost the Ring of Fire discovery will have on the north, on Aboriginal communities and hopefully, on Sudburys worldclass mining supply and service industry. Nemis is an ardent Johnny Cash fan and he was the promotional genius who nicknamed the discovery Ring of Fire. The area has the unique shape of a broken circle or crescent while the original deposits were the result of magma or molten rock from huge volcanic action. He continued, In fact, I think the Ring of Fire will rival the Sudbury basin and the economic impact of this discovery on the Ontario economy will probably run into the hundreds of billions of dollars over time. At the PDAC Aboriginal Forum, Michael Gravelle, Ontario minister for Northern Development, Mines and Forestry, said, Im glad to see so many of you here today, because PDAC is an excellent venue for fostering collaboration I think we all understand that there is a huge opportunity here. The industry can be a catalyst for an economic revival in many of our Aboriginal communities while developing superb mineral deposits.


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is also estimated that De It all of Ontario during the lifeBeers will contribute $6.7-billion cumulative GDP impact for of the Victor Mine. Gravelle mentioned that more that 60 agreements between mining companies and First Nations and Metis have been signed, and more are in the works. There was a sense at this years PDAC that the tide is turning in the relationships between Aboriginal communities and the mining sector. The conf lict between Platinex Inc. and the Kitchenuhmaykoosib Inninuwug First Nation (KI) over the Big Trout Lake Property was the exception, not the rule. The province recently settled outstanding lawsuits. Of course the southern media highlighted the conflict, which allowed environmentalists to infer that Aboriginal communities were anti-mining. For more than a century, the federal government has not kept promises with First Nations and has not been able to alleviate the third-world poverty in most Aboriginal communities. Over the past two decades, success stories such as De Beers Canadas Attawapiskat diamond mine and Goldcorp Canadas Musselwhite gold mine, both in the same region as the Ring of Fire, have proved that the mining companies do what they say and keep their promises. At Goldcorps Musselwhite gold mine, a precedent-setting agreement between the company and four surrounding First Nations communities ensures that qualified aboriginals are given priority in the hiring process. In addition, native businesses were encouraged to supply the mine site with services, and First Nation employees were also provided with apprenticeship training programs in various trades. At De Beers Canada Inc.s Attawapiskat diamond mine near the James Bay coast, approximately $1-billion was spent on construction of the mine, with approximately $167-million spent with Aboriginal businesses or joint venture partners during the construction phase. It is also estimated that De Beers will contribute $6.7-billion cumulative GDP impact for all of Ontario during the life of the Victor Mine. A May 2010 workforce snapshot showed approximately 44 per cent of the 519 employees less than two years into full production were Aboriginal. In addition, De Beers has dedicated $1.2-million on literacy programs in the coastal settlements, built an $850,000 training centre in 2005 and a second in 2009 at a cost of $1-million in Attawapiskat, while contributing $2-million to help leverage more than $10-million in pre-employment training. The announcement of a new nickel/copper/PGM deposit by FNX at its Victoria Property, on the western side of the Sudbury Basin, was much needed good news for a community in the middle of its longest labour strike ever. The Sudbury Basin is the richest mining district in North America, and among the top 10 most significant globally. It is also the third largest source of platinum in the world as a by-product of the rich nickel-copper sulphide ores. The top platinum producer is South Africas bushveld mining district, followed by Russias Norilsk mining operations in Siberia. The Victoria deposit has the potential for 10-20 million tons, would take four to five years to build, and employ about 250 workers. FNX will continue with its exploration drilling for another 12 to 18 months before deciding to develop the deposit. FNX CEO and Chairman Terry McGibbon had a big smile on his face as he was giving Laurentian Universitys new president, Dominic Giroux, a personal tour of the PDAC convention. MacGibbon said, The Sudbury Basin is a unique geological feature, which has produced or has mineral reserves worth more than a trillion dollars at todays metal prices. Touring the PDAC today with Dominic, I wanted to highlight the size of the global mining industry. MacGibbon continued, Our discussions focused on the potential role that Laurentian University can play in bridging the well-documented shortages of geologists, engineers, environmental professionals and other staff for the mining industry. In early May, FNX announced a $1-million donation for Laurentians mining programs. On the last day of the convention, Don Coxe, the well-respected, strategic advisor for BMO Financial Group and an ardent believer in the commodity super-cycle, gave a lunch speech on the incredible potential and need for Canadas junior mining sector. Coxe said, I cant think of a better career in the next 25 years than geology. To anyone coming in, what you will be tying yourself into is the hinge of history itself, where two-billion people move from the outside to the inside and they cant do it without you. He was referring to the industrialization and urbanization of China and India that will impact billions and the insatiable demand for mineral products to meet their growth. The hinge of history could just as well refer to the rebirth of mining in Northern Ontario and the enormous opportunities for Laurentian University to train the next generation of skilled mining professionals and for Aboriginal communities to fully participate with the mineral sector in the environmentally sustainable development of their traditional lands. [CJ]

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The BenchmarksIts no secret that certain places produce the finest specimens of certain gems. The traditional sources are best known because they have been producing for the longest. Youll soon realize they become the standard for all others.By Duncan Parker

Sri Lankan sapphire of 9.67 carats.

sapphire from Kashmir is very hard to come by these days. There has been no sapphire mining in this disputed region between India and Pakistan (listed alphabetically) for over 60 years. Despite, or perhaps due to the inherent rarity of a gem that hasnt been mined for more than half a century, Kashmir sapphire carries a cachet that no other sapphire can come close to. Kashmir sapphire is considered the best because in the best examples, the colour is exceptional; the gems are rich and bright. If a sapphire can be identified as Kashmir, then the gem is worth more than an equivalent looking sapphire from anywhere else. This is where it can get interesting for the gemologist and appraiser. If a sapphire is Kashmir, them it will be much more costly than a sapphire from somewhere else, even if the two have an appearance that is virtually the same. Laboratories are increasingly being asked to identify the geographic origin of gems. Can this be done? Many specialists have spent years compiling their reference collections for gem origin. Knowing the nature of colour, colour zones, inclusions, response to ultraviolet radiation, growth features, geological genesis and so many other features provide strong hints as the origin of a gem. If a sapphire is identified as Kashmir it will certainly sell for more than a sapphire identified as Madagascar or Burma (now referred to as Myanmar). I have seen a sapphire that was described to me as having been mined in Madagascar. The gem was taken to a

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38.7-carat Tanzanite.

If the gems themselves are really comparable, then surely the source shouldnt play a big rolein the price, should it?

lab where it received an origin certificate as Burma and later, at another lab received a certificate as Kashmir. Jackpot: The gem has undergone a metamorphosis from a recently mined very nice Madagascar sapphire to a vintage, and very rare Kashmir gem. The price is probably four or five times what it should have been as a Madagascar gem. At Harold Weinstein Lab, we have debated the origin and value subject with many dealers, labs and other specialists. Laboratories such as GIA dont give dollar values, and it would be nice to be in that position, but an appraiser, by definition, does put dollar values on items. If a gem of a certain origin comes in for appraisal, it gets a value that might be determined by the origin. The important gem heritage sites are few, but important. They are important, and often are historically the sources of the finest specimens of their respective gems. The problem is that there are sometimes other newer sources that have appeared that are capable of producing equally beautiful gems. There are often good arguments for the heritage sources to retain value. Consistency of quality and reliability of the source are important. Colombia is the traditional source for very fine emeralds. Really rubbish emeralds can come from there too, and they are often identifiable as

Colombian, but any source will have good and bad. Colombia has long been able to consistently produce good quantities of fine emerald, and though there are political difficulties in the country, the emeralds are still coming out. Afghanistan has produced some exceptional emeralds, and some work has been done to develop the source. In my opinion, some of the Afghan emeralds can easily compete with really fine Colombian emerald. Is there any rational reason for two virtually matching emeralds from Colombia and Afghanistan to be different prices? If the gems themselves are really comparable, then surely the source shouldnt play a big role in the price, should it? I realize that there is a really slim chance of mining in Afghanistan under its currently fragile political, social and military conditions. Is there good reason that two really similar gems should be very different prices just because one is from a poorly known source? On the opposite, Myanmar is renowned as the source of the finest rubies in the world, but we are seeing appraisers and gemologists being asked to identify sources that are not Burma. Vietnam has produced some really exceptional gems, but the source is smaller and less reliable. Madagascar has produced some good rubies, but is better known for sapphire, as is Sri Lanka.w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o maugust 2010

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Diamonditisis,rarely identified aby origin, and when it may realize fewpercentage points extra, barely covering the cost of additional paperwork to track it and laser engraving.

Untreated, 4.25-carat ruby from Tanzania.

There really might be very little competition for the finest Burma ruby, but the U.S. has passed a bill prohibiting the import of ruby and jadeite jade from Myanmar. The ban on imports has created something of a scramble entirely based on origin. There is suddenly a demand for ruby from anywhere except Myanmar. We have had requests to identify ruby as red sapphire because the U.S. embargo only includes ruby and jade, not sapphire, peridot or other gems for which Myanmar is noted. Morally we couldnt call ruby red sapphire, but it shows that origin has become a big deal in certain circles. An important alternate source for ruby is Tanzania, which has several mining areas opened up, including Winza. The rubies from Winza often have an orangish tone with the red, they often have blue streaks in them, they are noticeably included, but, on the plus side, theyre usually not heat-treated. These rubies are truly inferior to Myanmar rubies, but the U.S. is a huge market and the industry needs a source of ruby that is ironically not the traditionally finest. The price for these rubies is much higher than it really should be, but the trade has to take what it can get, and sales of ruby into one of the worlds biggest jewellery markets is strangely limited right now. Sometimes a source is important because it is the only one. Tanzanite, strangely enough, comes from the country that is its namesake, and there really arent other sources of note. It doesnt get a premium for being from Tanzania, it just happens to come from there, and there are no price comparisons.

Sometimes one source produces good material and others produce inferior goods. There are several sources of opal in the world right now, but opal from the very dry island of Australia is very stable, and is resistant to cracking, and holds it play of colour. Opal from Madagascar dries out and turns cloudy, Idaho opal crazes, and opal from several African nations has incredible play of colour, but usually cracks very extensively, so Australian opal demands a price based on being virtually the only source for stable gem quality opal. Diamond is rarely identified by origin, and when it is, it may realize a few percentage points extra, barely covering the cost of additional paperwork to track it and laser engraving. Canada is one of the few sources of diamond that is specifically identified, and about 95 per cent of Canadian Diamond is not identified as coming from here. The only diamond that fetches a notable premium on its price is Golconda diamond. Golconda diamond is from India, the worlds first source, and the only source for several thousand years. Golconda hasnt produced any diamonds for centuries, and though there is current exploration, it is historical, and therefore has a heritage cachet, ad when these gems come up for sale they can fetch a big premium. Perhaps it isnt source that is important in adding value to gems, but history. The quality of a gem contributes heavily to its value, but rightly and justifiably the story and historical background of a gem can carry some sense of journey and tradition to add substantially to value too. Justifiably, the romance is an important element of value in a gem, despite comparables from lesser-known sources. [CJ]

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Guiding LightsNew rules for Product of Canada and Made in Canada.B y Stephen I. S elznIck and elIzaBeth SInnott from c aSSelS B rock & B lackwell llp, t orontoo ensure truth in advertising and to provide manufacturers, importers and retailers with guidance, the Competition Bureau has introduced new enforcement guidelines relating to Product of Canada and Made in Canada claims applicable to non-food products. The guidelines that came into effect on July 1, 2010, supersede the former guide to Made in Canada claims, and describe the Bureaus approach to assessing claims under the false or misleading representation provisions of the Competition Act, the Consumer Packaging and Labelling Act (with respect to non-food products only) and the Textile Labelling Act. The publication of the new guidelines is a clear signal that territorial source of origin claims should be revisited and reexamined in order to avoid attracting scrutiny from the Bureau and to avoid potential consumer complaints. With respect to precious metals and precious metal articles including gold, palladium, platinum and silver (and an alloy of any of those metals or an article that is wholly or partially, or purporting to be wholly or partially, composed of a precious metal the rules for quality markings have not changed, and are outlined in the Precious Metals Marking Act and Precious Metals Marking Regulations.

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the Bureau prohibit the or misleading The Acts administered by when a business makesmaking of falseCanada or representations. Therefore, a Product of Made in Canada claim, it should do so in accordance with the guidelines.

While quality markings on precious metals are not mandatory, the marking, in order to refer to the quality of a precious metal, must comply with the Precious Metals Acts. Under special circumstances, a Canadian national mark, a maple leaf surrounded by the letter C, for example, may be applied in accordance with the Precious Metals Acts if the: article is wholly manufactured in Canada; article is composed of a precious metal of a prescribed quality; article has a prescribed quality mark applied to it; and dealer applying the national mark is properly authorized by a Commissioner appointed by the Bureau. While the Precious Metals Acts provisions must be followed in applying quality marks or the Canadian national mark on a precious metal, the guidelines have important advertising and marketing considerations for those in the jewellery business, especially for those manufacturing or selling jewellery not made of a precious metal or jewellery not containing a quality mark. The Acts administered by the Bureau prohibit the making of false or misleading representations. Therefore, when a business makes a Product of Canada or Made in Canada claim, it should do so in accordance with the guidelines. The Bureau relies on the guidelines in determining whether to investigate a consumer claim or to undertake appropriate enforcement action for non-compliance. The new guidelines create a clear distinction between Product of Canada and Made in Canada claims. In order to be identified as a Product of Canada, items must satisfy two conditions. First, the last substantial transformation of the goods must have occurred in Canada. Secondly, at least 98 per cent of the total

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