The Jeweller Magazine August/September 2010 Issue

JewellerAug/Sept 2010 £6.50 The Voice of The Industry

the

The Jeweller is produced in conjunction with the British Jewellers’ Association

IJL 2010 in-depth previewGreen Street –East London’s jewellery quarterHot Diamonds ten years on

Jewellerthe

The Voice of the Industry 3

Contents |

Company Profile 34

Just ahead of its unveiling at IJL, we get a preview

of the new collections and new brand image

from Hot Diamonds.

Stand and Deliver 40

Before the show goes on – we give you the low-down

on what to see, where to go and who to visit at IJL 2010.

This includes highlights of key launches, a first look

at new talent and a preview of some of the many

jewellery service companies who will be at the event.

East End Promise 62

Belinda Morris visits Green Street, London’s

undiscovered jewellery quarter

Ethical – Taken into Custody 70

The important, but complex, issue of Chain of

Custody is unravelled by Michael Hoare

C O N T E N T S A U G / S E P T 1 0

The National Association

of Goldsmiths

78a Luke Street,

London EC2A 4XG

Tel: 020 7613 4445

www.jewellers-online.org

Editor: Belinda Morris

Tel: 01692 538007

[email protected]

BJA Marketing & PR Manager

Lindsey Straughton

[email protected]

Tel: 0121 237 1110

CUBE Publishing

Sales Director: Ian Francis

Tel: 020 7833 5500

[email protected]

Art Director: Ben Page

[email protected]

Publisher: Neil Oakford

[email protected]

Contributors:

John Henn

Jo Young

The Jeweller is published by CUBE Publishing on behalf of theNational Association of Goldsmiths for circulation to members.For further information about The Jeweller please visit:www.thejewellermagazine.com

The magazine is printed on paper and board that has metacceptable environmental accreditation standards.

Although every effort is made to ensure that the information supplied is accurate, the NAG disclaims and/or does not accept liability for any loss, damage or claim whatsoever that may result from the information given. Information and ideas are forguidance only and members should always consult their own professional advisers.The publisher accepts no responsibility for any advertiser, advertisement or insert in TheJeweller. Anyone having dealings with any advertiser must rely on their own enquiries.

Communiqué 4

Editor’s Letter 7

Industry News 10

NAG News 26

Member of the Month 28

BJA News 31

BJA Designer Profile 32

Opinion: John Henn 36

BJA Autumn Fair Update 68

Ethical 70

Insurance Matters 74

Notebook 78

Antique Jeweller 80

Education & Training 86

Letters 90

IRV Review 92

Appointments 95

Display Cabinet 96

The Last Word 98

Cover ImageIn conjunction with

International Jewellery London5th - 8th September 2010

Earls Court London www.jewellerylondon.com

JewellerThe Voice of The Industry www.thejewellermagazine.com

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Retail – The New Gardening?

Have you noticed how telly seizes on atheme like a dog with a favourite toy –

mauling and shaking it until it falls to bitsdespite pleas to stop! Examples are legion,and include long running obsessions withcash in the attic; location, location, location;and fashion fixes. It seems that no televisionexecutive worth his salt can resist jumpingonto a bandwagon. It all started with thesainted Laurence Llewelyn-Bowen slappingpaint about, then Charlie Dimmock insistedwe have a water feature, then they rampedup the aggression with Gordon Ramsay.

The process goes on repeating itself; think of a theme, find an ‘expert’ and some‘victims’ to be made over, and bingo you’vegot yourself a series. Interiors, gardens, food,frocks – the only thing that appeared tohave escaped until now was shops. Despiteflirtations with retail, nobody had really doneshops justice until Mary Portas came along.Now we have High Street Dreams, andMary Queen of Shops vying for attention,with the latter casting Portas in the Ramsayrole. Do I detect a new theme emerging?Not that I’m complaining. Make-over showsare a guilty pleasure, made more intense in this case by some subject knowledge,and the opportunity to sit in judgement

over the hapless victims from the safety ofan arm chair.

For small shop proprietors there may bethe frisson of recognition that all is not rosyin one’s own garden, and perhaps a freshdetermination to sort things out. What MaryPortas brings to the table is the detachmentof the consultant, who is able to make owners see their business as others seethem. Now she is bringing that samedetachment to retailers through a series oftraining workshops.

So it was that I found myself, one morningin July, one of a party perched atop the shellof the Westfield shopping centre being builtalongside the Olympic village. As locationsgo, a pop-up restaurant made of scaffolding

boards and plastic sheeting, on top of abuilding site, is hard to beat for theatricalimpact. And that, I suppose, was the point,for we were there to witness Mary Portaslaunch a new workshop venture, which is tobe rolled out via Skillsmart retail skills shops.The point was well made, and I cannot ques-tion the principle objective of fighting backagainst ‘homogeneity’. I too “don’t want tolive in a world of bland faceless retailing”.

Unquestionably, Laurence, Charlie, andGordon have given their respective sectorsa welcome shot in the arm, and none of uswill ever take interiors, gardens or restaurantsfor granted again. Paint and decking manufacturers rubbed their hands in glee,and the nation has never spent more oneating out. If the Mary Portas effect shineson small retailers, so much the better! If Britain’s shoppers realise that they are surrendering their high streets to multiples’‘cut and paste’ shopping solutions, andsmall retailers can regain their vision andprofessionalism, so much the better. MaryPortas is a skilled retailer, marketer, andvisionary, of that there is no doubt, but whymust it take a make-over show to shake usout of our torpor and come face to face with the age old disciplines of retailing –knowledge, service, experience and vision?

Come to think of it, would it make mem-bers flock to the EDF if Mike McGraw was aredhead and wore high heels? Maybe not!

Stand Aside – I’m a Politician

If that hasn’t turned your stomach then Ishould tell you a story involving food –

a Parliamentary breakfast to be precise. Thesort of event that attracts trade associationtypes, prepared to get up at the crack of dawn,and go through security checks in exchangefor an eight a.m. fried breakfast and thechance to rub shoulders with politicians. At one such event I attended in June, the

M I C H A E L H O A R E ’ S

CommuniquéOur CEO falls under the spell of Mary Portas and herhigh hopes for British retail, takes breakfast with aBaroness and ponders the future of crime prevention.

| Comment

4 The Jeweller Aug/Sept 2010

Mary Portas launching the new workshop venture at the Olympic Village

guest speaker was Baroness Wilcox, Parliamentary under Secretaryfor State, and government spokesperson for the Dept. for Business,Innovation and Skills.

After a brief speech on the politician’s role, which is apparently to“create the right conditions for business – then stand back”, theBaroness took questions. Conceding with refreshing candour thatonly three weeks into the job she was ill-equipped to deal withdetails, she agreed to respond in writing to a number of questions,including “what measures will the government take to assist SMEbusinesses?” The written answer, when it came, included the notethat ‘by the end of 2010 businesses will be able to gain free andeasy access to all new central government tender documents forcontracts over £10,000.’ This is significant news for all jewellerswishing to tender for the supply of civil servants’ retirement goldwatches, for which there could be big demand this year. But let’shope the politicians respond in time to make a saving on the VAT!

Strained to Breaking Point

I’ve enjoyed a lot of hospitality this month in one way or another,most recently the kind invitation from the CMJ Buying Group to

attend its meeting in Birmingham, at which the guest speaker was Gabby Tolkovsky. For those of you who were there, and noticedI declined lunch, the explanation is that conferences and Mrs H’sexcellent cooking are beginning to take their toll. So a Sunday seemedan excellent day to fast, and perhaps get in some belt-tighteningpractice. If I felt at all light-headed during Michael Allchin’s excellentafternoon presentation it was down to hunger rather than the parlous state of the gold market.

I’m afraid I had exercised no such restraint at the Houlden BuyingGroup’s equally excellent event a few weeks previous, where top ofthe bill speaker Gerald Ratner came up with a memorable line todescribe the debacle precipitated by his infamous remark: “I thoughtlong and hard about my position – and then I decided to panic!” I know that feeling all too well!

There was no panic in the eyes of Sir Paul Stephenson QPM,Commissioner of the Metropolitan Police Service; guest speaker atthe British Security Industry Association luncheon, delineating his top five challenges. Counter terrorism; a safe and secure Olympics;serious and organised crime and serious youth crime were at thetop of his list, and lurking at the bottom were what he termed ‘fiscalchallenges’. Given Sir Paul reckoned further terrorist attemptsinevitable – and he calculated there are 6,000 organised crimegroups, involving about 38,000 people in the UK – he appearedremarkably upbeat. Perhaps he was basking in that day’s statisticsshowing a 37 percent reduction in crime over the preceding year.

The future of crime prevention lies in public and private sectorsharing information and intelligence according to the Commissioner;thus reinforcing our decision to establish SaferGems. My diningcompanion, a retired cop with twenty-eight years service behind him,put it more pithily, “Not easy to make an upbeat speech, then go backto your office and slash 25 percent off your budget”. I guess we’ll behelping the police with their enquiries for some time to come!


Comment |

The affair starts here

IJL - Stand I108

Tel 01271 312025 Email [email protected] Web www.elodiecollections.com


Comment |

Well, are you getting excited? What do you mean “About what?” Tsk tsk… You might be

blasé about an enormous space full of gems and jewellery, but personally I always get

a shiver of almost nervous excitement in the lead up to a major trade show. And especially

at this time of year. It’s a bit like going back to school for the autumn term – uniform all

pressed and tidy and a new pencil case in your satchel.

And for the exhibitors at IJL next month, it must be a bit like hosting a party and wondering

whether anyone’s going to turn up and when they do, will they like the music/nibbles/

other guests. Or is this just me? However you regard several days spent working the aisles,

juggling budgets, networking, partying… there’s no question that we all have the most

amazing array of treasure waiting for us at Earl’s Court – if the preview of new collections

I’ve seen is anything to go by.

The only problem I can foresee is not being able to see it all. I not only want to visit as

many stands as I can and talk to as many of our readers as I can, I also want to attend some

of the great-sounding seminars and discussions that the organisers have laid on. If you see

a fraught-looking woman removing her heels and running across the hall… that’ll be me.

I feel an invitation to attend an ethical talk could usefully be extended to Naomi Campbell.

If ever there was a woman in need of educating! I appreciate that she is not, herself, on trial

and that in 1997 she may not have known about blood diamonds (not many did), but the

level of crass ignorance and diva-like insensitivity she demonstrated in court, given the

horrors connected with this case, was shocking. And another thing… she sounded quaintly

old-fashioned when she said she received many gifts and is used to seeing diamonds that

are shiny, in a box. Rather Eartha Kitt-ish. Modern women, who buy their own jewellery,

would know where their stones came from. Or again, is that just me?

Page 40

Page 62

Editor’sLetter

This month:

“I’m drawn moth-like to the stands of inspirational jewellerydesigners, so I hopegreat numbers of retailers will also venture along to these areas…”

“We made a consciousdecision about who wewanted to attract as aconsumer – to moveaway from the scattergun effect”

If you would like to comment on any of the issues raised in this edition of The Jewelleror any other trade-related matters please email the editor at: [email protected]

TAN D F81

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Emagold UK, the group of British jewellerymanufacturers dedicated to promoting

high carat, high-quality jewellery, will be formally disbanded following IJL at Earls Courtthis September – where members willexhibit together for the last time. Emagold’spassing marks the end of an era in the promotion of high caratage gold jewellery.

Emagold (The European Manufacturers’Association) was established in 1992 with thesupport of the World Gold Council. Manymanufacturers throughout Europe joinedthe group, principally to promote the use ofhigher carat gold jewellery at a time whenthe hallmarking system was under threatand the Emagold ‘Solar’ mark – a sun-likesymbol stamped onto 18ct and 22ct jewelleryalongside the hallmark – was being promotedas an alternative method of independentlycertified quality. At its peak, membershipexceeded 120 companies in Italy, Spain,Portugal, France, Greece and the UK

The World Gold Council withdrew its support several years ago and many of theEuropean countries left Emagold as a result.However, in the UK a dedicated group ofmanufacturers and suppliers maintainedtheir membership, using Emagold as a jointpromotional tool to promote high calibrecompanies and jewellery. The group hasexhibited together under the Emagoldumbrella at UK trade fairs, manned a jointwebsite and undertaken a number of

major promotions and training initiatives,some in conjunction with the NAG.

In 2003, for instance, Emagold staged afashion show at IJL in conjunction withMake-A-Wish Foundation, the global charitythat grants wishes to children with life-threatening illnesses. TV personality LindaLusardi helped to launch ten collections of18ct gold jewellery – all on the wishbonetheme – created by Emagold UK members.

“It is with some sadness that we havedecided that Emagold has had its day,” saysits final chairman, Asa Harrison, UK salesdirector of Cookson Precious Metals. “It hasprovided a great talking shop for those of uswho have belonged and has undoubtedlydrawn some of the UK’s longest establishedand best recognised jewellery supplierscloser together.

“The group began at a time when themarket was dominated by sales of 9ct goldjewellery, which is very definitely no longer thecase, and I like to think that Emagold’s legacyis that it undoubtedly helped to make retailersaware of the very real advantages of stockinghigher carat, higher quality, gold jewellery.”

One of the founder members of Emagoldwas Hean Studio. “One of the many benefits

of being a part of the group was the sharingof commercial information; how each company was performing; what we felt werethe trends and of course the combinedmarketing knowledge and experiences,”says Hean’s owner Apple Nooten-Boom.“The first direction was to establish a qualitybranding in a similar vein to the wool mark– unfortunately Emagold was too small anorganisation to reach the critical massrequired for that to succeed,” he continues.“It was such a pity, as the quality mark, independently applied could well have

reduced imports of poorly-made goods, andhelped to sustain higher levels of qualitymanufacturing in the UK.

“But time moves on and strategieschange,” he adds. “There will continue to bedialogue and co-operation with regard totrade fairs, and I hope that we will from time

to time get together like a business club andcontinue to share our knowledge and experience for the greater good.” Harrisonagrees: “While Emagold may be no more,our members will of course continue tooffer the highest possible quality and serviceand many of the close associations madewill endure,” he says.

The members of Emagold were CentreJewellery, Cookson Precious Metals, Curteis,Domino, Euro Findings, The GW Group,Hean Studio, Saunders Shepherd andStubbs & Co.

Emagold UK to disbandafter this year’s IJL show

Linda Lusardi modellingin an Emagold show at IJL 2003

“I like to think that Emagold’s legacy is that it undoubtedlyhelped to make retailers aware of the very real advantagesof stocking higher carat, higher quality, gold jewellery.‘


Industry News |

Argent of London spreads its net

Jewellery brand Argent of London, which launched in 1996, selling principally from its own shop in Wandsworth, South

London and on-line, is now taking tentative steps to grow thewholesale side of its business. Following its selection to showcasea capsule collection at Heathrow’s Terminal 5 in 2007, a numberof key designs by Argent has more recently been bought by LaingBoutique in Edinburgh – as well as a gift shop on the Isle of Man.

Founder and designer Gail Goodrich conceived her jewellery line – using gold, silver andgemstones – to be affordable to women who want to buy for themselves. Included in thewholesale collection are pieces that are pretty and delicate (coloured stones on silverchains), bold and bright (stacking rings and bracelets), quirky (pendants of pearl ‘peas’ in silver ‘pods’) and edgy (stone and pearl embellished crosses).

S N I P P E T SDeWitt partners with Guards Polo Club

Swiss watch brand DeWitt, together with its new UK distributor Linder Luxury, is therecently appointed official timing partner ofGuards Polo Club. The three year partnershipwill include customised giant clocks aroundthe Club’s playing field at Smith’s Lawn; a display of watches in the Clubhouse; the organisation of joint events and thedevelopment of two specially designedwatches for gentlemen and ladies.

To celebrate the 50th anniversary of theGuards Polo Club’s historic Queen’s Cupthis year DeWitt has designed two specialcommemorative watches. The gentlemen’sversion is inspired by the Twenty-8-TwentyTourbillion model, while the ladies’ modeltakes inspiration from the Dame de Pressywatch and is decorated with more than 460 diamonds.

Accurist launch a charming watch collection

It had to happen… In a response to thedemand for beaded jewellery, British watchmaker Accurist has launched the firstbracelet watch that is compatible with allleading charm bead brands, includingPandora, Chamilia, Lovelinks and Truth.There are three styles in the range; Daisy,Passion and Crystal Row and the watchesare silver plated and feature mother of pearldials. Additional versions in sterling silverwill be launched later this year.

GIA launches GemIdentification on-line

The Gemological Institute of America hasadded Gem Identification to its roster ofeLearning courses. Considered to be themost challenging course in the programme(500 gemstones to examine and havingthe most assignments) the on-line versionallows students to watch practical videoswhich will guide them through the identification process. The content is interactive and the format large for easierviewing of stone features, which means that not only colour is clear, but texture,quality of lustre and inclusions can also beseen. For further information please visit:www.gia.edu

Italy launches first coursein eco jewellery design

Storm launchesmen’s Blackstyles at IJL

Following the success of Black, the premiumrange of watches from fashion brand

Storm, the company will be introducing threemen’s styles to the collection at IJL this year (Stand G50). All models have Swissmovements and a sapphire glass face.

Shown here is Emron, which features thesignature detail of an onyx stone in the crown.

Italy’s largest technical university, thePolitecnico di Milano will hold a first-ever

international course in eco-sustainable jewellery design from 14th-19th March, 2011.The course is being organised in cooperationwith CIBJO and the World JewelleryConfederation Education Foundation, whichis the body established by CIBJO toadvance the principles of Corporate SocialResponsibility in the jewellery industry.

The two-part course will be conducted inEnglish and will cover the theory of eco-sustainable jewellery with the second partbeing a hands-on workshop (28 hours).Instruction will be provided by lecturers fromthe design department of the Politecnico di Milano and world renowned experts insustainable jewellery design, who will work

together with the students on their practicalassignments. A maximum of 30 students willbe admitted to the course, and attendancewill be mandatory in order to graduate.

Applicants for the course should be firstand second level graduates holding a highschool-level diploma from an art school orgoldsmith institute, or professional jewellerswishing to specialise in eco-sustainable jewellery design. Candidates will be acceptedfollowing an evaluation by the acceptancecommittee of their professional CV. The costof the course is €1,000 plus 20 per cent VAT.A number of scholarships will be available,and in order to apply for one candidatesshould email their application forms and CVsto: [email protected] by October30th 2010.

| Industry News


S N I P P E T S

Glamour ads from Rox

Ultra pro-active Scottish jewellery retailerRox has unveiled a set of slightly provocativeimages for its new autumn advertising campaign. The model is wearing newdesigns from Monica Vinader, ToyWatch,Thomas Sabo and Rox’s new line of silverjewellery. “We are taking jewellery retail tonew heights in Scotland and will continueto take risks with our product range andmarketing as we aim to show that fashionjewellery is every bit as worth investing in as a new Mulberry bag,” says co-owner ofRox, Kyron Keogh.

Pawnbroker launches iMoney

Short-term financial solutions specialist Mayshas announced a new online pawnbrokingservice – www.mayspawnbrokers.co.uk –dedicated to confidentiality, and designedspecifically for people with time-sensitivelifestyles who need cash quickly. The newservice provided by the North West’s largest independent pawnbroker enablescustomers to secure short-term cash injections against reclaimable jewellery orwatches, without the hassle of physicallyvisiting an outlet. Customers fill in detailsabout their item on an online form, deposittheir goods via a pre-paid, insured courierservice and receive a loan offer from Mays’valuation specialists. Money is transferredthe same day and the customer’s items arekept safe in a secure vault until they arereclaimed a few months later.

Amajor exhibition of gold works of art and artefacts, telling the story of Britain and gold, is being planned for the summer of 2012 by the Goldsmiths’ Company. Entitled

“Gold: Britain’s Glorious Riches”, the exhibition tells the story of gold with particular referenceto Britain – from Cornish gold dust to precious golden treasures and will be held atGoldsmiths’ Hall from Friday 1st June to Saturday 28th July, 2012.

Dr Helen Clifford, the exhibition curator, has sought to focus on this country’s involvementwith gold. She explains: “As a trading nation, a centre of inventions and an ambitious empire,gold has long been vital to [our] existence. Not just as an exploitable ore but as a symbol ofpower, a medium of exchange and an inspiration for masterpieces of craftsmanship.”

The exhibition will explore and demonstrate various themes relating to Britain’s relationshipwith gold, starting with the metal itself, its intrinsic properties and more romantically its associated magic, mystery and potency. Other themes include the sources of gold in Britainand the burials and hoards of gold antiquities which have been discovered. One of the earliestpieces in the exhibition is a gold lunula, a distinctive type of Bronze Age necklace shaped likea crescent moon, dating from 2300-2000 BC which was found in Cornwall.

What promises to be an outstanding exhibition will illustrate many fascinating themes witha wealth of rare and beautiful gold objects, from both private and public collections aroundthe country. A one-off exhibition, it is being staged in the year that HM The Queen celebratesher Diamond Jubilee, as well as London hosts the 2012 Olympic Games.

Daniel Adair, an apprentice watchmakerat Belfast-based jewellers John H Lunn,

has been selected to join the British Schoolof Watchmaking’s exclusive training course.As part of a sponsorship partnership withthe British School of Watchmaking, membersof the Houlden Group are invited to selectsuitable candidates to take part in a rigorousassessment for the three year trainingcourse. Only six students are selected forthe course each year. The 24 year old isenjoying a double celebration as he hasonly just been appointed to the job as anapprentice watchmaker with Lunn’s havingbeaten off tough competition.

“There is currently a shortfall of approxi-mately 600 watchmakers in the UK. Whilewe have all been very busy selling there hasbeen a whole generation of watchmakersmissed, so this is a unique opportunity anda great career path,” says Lizanne Gibson,people development manager at Lunn. “It isnot a career many people consider but the passion conveyed by all the horologists

I’ve ever met speaks volumes – they simplylove the job.”

The British School of Watchmakers wasfounded by the Houlden Group, along with partners: The Swatch Group, RolexRichemont UK, Patek Phillipe, Breitling UK,Signet Group, Goldsmiths and FA Buck. Aspart of the sponsorship Houlden has theopportunity to present an apprentice forconsideration for the School. The project isalso supported by Watches of SwitzerlandTraining and Education Programme, basedin Switzerland.

Goldsmiths plansgold exhibition

Young apprentice goes on watch

| Industry News


S N I P P E T SLeadership of retiring De Beers MD commended

In a statement issued by Avi Paz, presidentof the World Federation of Diamond Bourses(WFDB), outgoing CEO Gareth Penny of De Beers has been commended for thecentral role that he has played in the pastyears in the rough diamond market.“[His] contribution to the prosperity of thediamond industry… was tremendous andhis unique skills were particularly evidentduring the time of the global economicdownturn. He offered strong leadership inan industry that was going through a severestructural and economic crisis in the past 18months,” Paz stated. As Penny steps downDe Beers reports the highest H1 profits($762 million) in the history of the company(in relation to sales volume).

Garrard’s unveils The RoyalThames Cup

In celebration of its 275th Anniversary thisyear, Garrard’s, the oldest jewellers in theworld, has once again collaborated with theworld of sailing to create an iconic andunique trophy.

Following the creation of the originalAmerica’s Cup in 1851, Garrard’s has produced some of the world’s finest sportingtrophies including the William Webb EllisCup, The British Open Claret Jug, PremierLeague Trophy and the Cricket World Cup. On Wednesday 28th July, Garrard’scontinued this tradition with the unveilingThe Royal Thames Cup in support of the1851 Race at Cowes Week 2010.

Tateossian and Central St Martins collaboration

Jewellery brand Tateossian is also celebratingan anniversary – its 20th – and has commissioned recent graduates from CentralSt Martins College of Art & Design to createa ladies’ and men’s capsule collection.From the six students chosen to design thelines – mentored by jewellery designerHannah Martin – two will be selected by judges to go into production. On 24thNovember, at an event at Christie’s, thefinal winners will be announced, with the winning pieces appearing in the Tateossianstores from December.

Jeweller dices withdeath in North SeaDominic Gomersall, owner of Lumbers

jewellers in Leicester, heading a teamof business men attempting to row fromLand’s End to Joan O’Groats, was forced tocall off the challenge after being rescued bythe Coast Guards off Hull. The LumbersCelebrity Row was aiming to complete the1097 mile trip in 21 days, to raise moneyfor four charities. When the six-man team,battling Force 10 gales, was rescued onSunday 17th July, they were, in the words of the North Sea Coast Guard, “20 minutesfrom almost certain death” as they werebeing blown towards shipping lanes occupiedby major vessels.

Until that point, the team had been making extraordinary progress having broken tworecords en route from Land’s End, despite a few dicey moments. For instance, they made itthrough the second biggest tidal flow in the world, Bristol Estuary. “The speed and strengthof the current could easily have swept us to our peril….it seemed that we had managed to get through the storms and the harsh lessons of sea travel,” says Gomersall. “We are all obviously disappointed at not being able to complete the challenge we had set ourselvesbut the journey and the camaraderie that we experienced was something we will never forget”.

The Lumbers Celebrity Row (a number of celebrities supported the adventure) has raiseda substantial amount for charity and will continue to urge for donations for the four majorcharities: Rainbows Hospice for Children and Young People, The RNLI Lifeboats, SamanthaDickson Brain Tumour Trust and The Princes Trust. Five years ago Gommersall successfullyrecovered from an operation to remove a brain tumor and wanted to create a once in a lifetimeopportunity in which to raise awareness and money for charities whose sole purpose is tohelp save and enrich people’s lives. If you would like donate to these causes please visit:www.celebrityrow.co.uk/Charity.aspx

Job seekers to get direct alerts themoment new jobs are posted onlineThe Jeweller’s popular recruitment site www.jeweller-recruitment.co.uk which is attracting

over 2,300 unique visitors per month*, is now offering a new facility where visitors looking for jobs in the jewellery trade can register their details online and automaticallyreceive notification via email. During registration the job seeker canspecify job category or categories they would like to be informed aboutand in which geographical area. They will then be alerted via email as soon as a new job is posted matching their criteria.

Other new features of the site include the ability to subscribe to the brand new Jeweller Recruitment Twitter jobs blog and jobsnewsfeed (RSS), both of which are updated as soon as new jobs are posted. To register and view current jobs online visit:www.jeweller-recruitment.co.uk * Source: Google Analytics July

AN D SEE US AT IJL STAN D F81

| Industry News


S N I P P E T SNew sales rep for Domino

British jewellery brand Domino has appointeda sales representative in Ireland. Joining ateam of seven sales reps, Ann Marie Farrellwill sell the company’s collections through-out the Republic. Farrell, who is herself Irish,is a trained diamond grader (DGA) and previously worked for a diamond dealer inLondon’s Hatton Garden – a job whichrequired her to travel to Antwerp and TelAviv to source and to sell stones. She is alsoa collector of gemstones and makes herown costume jewellery.

Further British Jewellery Weekdates announced

The rather confusingly titled British JewelleryWeek (it began on June 16 and is still going)has announced further dates of exhibitionsin jewellery boutiques around the country.Wave Jewellery, which has five shops, hasalready hosted two events in its London andManchester shops and has a further threedates to show off work by key jewellerydesigners. The branches in Bowness (18th-August-1st September), Kendal (8th-22ndSeptember) and Lancaster (5th-17thNovember) will be showing pieces by thelikes of Tomasz Donocik, Jasmine Alexanderand Lauren Adriana. Other participants still tostage exhibitions in BJW include GC Hardwickof Burton -on-Trent (11th-25th September);Catherine Jones, Cambridge (18th-31stOctober) and Rubinstein Keightley,Uppingham (4th-11th December).

Bulgari Group sales up

Interim management statements for theBulgari Group for the first half of 2010 show a turnover of €443.3 million whichrepresents a rise of 8.2 percent at comparable exchange rates. During thesame period lat year the Group reported anett loss of €7.7 million. While the jewellerycategory rose by 10.5 percent, watch salesdecreased by 4.6 per cent. However whentaken into into account that sales of watches sold at Basel in 2009 were delivered in the second quarter and thisyear will be delivered in the third quarterand that the Roth and Genta brand watchesare now out of stock, the watch categoryactually grew by 14 per cent.

Watch brand G-Shock, which has held a long affiliation with the Royal Air Force, and is,in particular a strong supporter of trainee pilots, has announced that it will annually

award all newly qualified pilots with a top-of-the-range watch. The G-Shock GW-2500 GravityDefier Aviator watch, which is built with pilot specifications, will be given to each pilot upontheir graduation.

The new models of the timepiece are designed for easy use by pilots and feature G-shock’s shock and vibration resistance and can withstand major changes in shock andgravitational force. The faces can be read instantly and there are large buttons for reliableoperation of the stopwatch and other functions. This year the two most outstanding pilots –Flight Lieutenants Steve Barton and James Harkin – were awarded Premium GW-3000 versions of the watch at their graduation ceremony at RAF Valley End.

G-Shock joins forceswith RAF pilots

Confederation of British Industrylaunches creative industries blueprint

The CBI is calling on the Government to deliver a clear strategy to ensure the UK’s creativeindustries can flourish and help lead the economic recovery. In its new report, Creating

Growth: A blueprint for the creative industries, the business group stresses the vital economiccontribution of creative industries, including fashion, design and art. It is estimated that theseindustries contribute 6-8 per cent of GDP; account for £16bn of overseas trade each year andemploy nearly two million people.

The sector also significantly enhances the UK’s cultural reputation globally, underlining the vitality of the UK economy. The CBI believes the UK’s creative sector, which is the biggestin Europe, can play a crucial role in rebalancing the economy and delivering high growth. For that to happen, it believes the Government must deliver the right conditions for the sectorto thrive and create new jobs.

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| Industry News


S N I P P E T SEthical Fashion Networklaunched

Deborah Miarkowska, creative director ofethical fashion and jewellery on-line boutiqueand magazine, EcoChic Collection, hasintroduced the Ethical Fashion Network. An opportunity for ethical businesses in theSouth East to meet socially, share ideas andmake contacts for working in the ethicalsector, the initiative will kick off with alaunch event in Hove on 20th September.Ethical jeweller Greg Valerio will lead theevening with a talk followed by a Q&A session. To learn more contact Deborah on:[email protected]

Investor/business connectionservice launches

A new online service has launched thatconnects investors with businesses looking for funding. The Business GarageGlobal concept allows companies andentrepreneurs free listings and introductions.Offering ease and simplicity, it is a resourcefor business owners and investors, and vitalfor those seeking seed-funding, investment,an exit, or short-term capital. The servicecomprises three specialist areas: Ignition:for angel investors to connect with entrepreneurs and start-ups seeking funding;Refuel: a service for businesses seekingimmediate or short-term funding andShowroom: an area for buyers and sellers ofprofessional service businesses.

Congratulations to Jo!

All of us at Cube Publishing and the NAGwould like to congratulate our contributor(and ex-editor) Jo Young on the birth of herbaby boy. Freddie arrived (very promptly)on 6th July – daddy Max’s birthday.

Seiko personnel changesAfter 33 years of service with the company, Seiko UK’s technical support manager Mark Mills

has retired. He joined what was then Seiko Time (UK) in 1977 and was employed as awatchmaker, having served a seven year apprenticeship and worked as a workshop managerfor a family jeweller which was a Seiko agent. In 1992 Mills was appointed to his final positionin recognition of his unparalleled technical knowledge and ability to communicate clearlywith colleagues, customers and suppliers alike. He also became Seiko’s European technicalinstructor and he is a member of British Horological Institute. He has now decided to devotehis energies to charitable work.

The role of technical support manager has been filled by Rob Wilson, who also has a longhistory with Seiko UK, approaching the completion of 25 years’ service with the company at the end of September this year. He has a depth of technical expertise and alongside hisnew role, Wilson will continue to provide training and supervision to the workshop.

Another long-serving Seiko employee, Dave Powell (he completes 30 years’ service at the end of this year) has been appointed customer satisfaction manager. He was part of the system development team as an analyst and programmer, where he concentrated onthe development of Seiko’s electronic ordering system used by the sales team. During hisservice Powell amassed a wealth of technical knowledge and experience of the many facetsof the after sales service operations, as well as understanding the requirements of both thesales force and customers.

The World Diamond Council wrapped up its 7th Annual Meeting in St. Petersburg lastmonth, with the welcome announcement that the Kimberley Process had reached con-

sensus on an agreement that will enable the renewal of rough diamond exports from theMarange diamond fields in Zimbabwe. According to the agreement, by SeptemberZimbabwe will be able to carry out two supervised exports of rough diamond from theMarange production. During this period, the Kimberley Process will conduct a review missionto Zimbabwe. The U.S. State Department led by Susan Page, Assistant U.S. Deputy Secretaryof State, were among the delegates that attended the meeting.

KP agreement on roughdiamond exportsNadim Kara, PartnershipAfrica Canada; andEleanor Harrowel,Global Witness

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| Industry News


S N I P P E T SAssay Office opens its doors to general public

Following on from the success of its presenceat the recent Antiques for Everyone event atthe NEC, for three days this October theBirmingham Assay Office will be opening its door to the general public and offeringlimited places on its Silver Collections Visits programme. Normally available toorganised groups only, visitors will be givenan opportunity to see the spectacular silvercollection and the Library and hear the curator, Dr Sally Baggott talk about the history of hallmarking and the Assay Officeitself. The visits, taking place on Tuesday 5th October, Tuesday 7th December andThursday 9th December, at £7 per headmust be booked and paid for in advance:[email protected]

Ortak signs Smillie and daughter

Orkney-based jewellery brand Ortak hassigned up Scottish TV presenter Carol Smillie,together with her 15 year old daughter,aspiring model Christie Knight, to front thecompany’s new autumn/winter 2010 campaign. Following in the footsteps ofother celebrities Jill Halfpenny, AmandaLamb, Mylene Klass, Suzanna Shaw andKate Ford, ex-model Smillie and her daughterhave been chosen to reflect the fact thatOrtak appeals to women of all ages, and will be wearing pieces that take a militarytwist on a romantic theme.

Pearls and wellies

To celebrate its 21st birthday this autumn,Coleman Douglas Pearls has collaboratedwith British wellington boot companyRockfish to create Wellies in Pearls, a limitededition collection of 21 pink wellies withfive different pink pearl designs, which willbe auctioned off for charity. ColemanDouglas Pearl’s Knightsbridge store will playhost to the event, with funds raised going tothe Too Many Women campaign in aid ofBreakthrough Breast Cancer.

Jewellery at Spitalfields

Renowned for its weekly antique’s market, Old Spitalfield Market near Liverpool StreetStation in London has added jewellery to its repertoire. Every Tuesday throughout August

has seen much of its vast space taken up with jewellery designers, makers and dealers from throughout the south of England, selling anything from hand-crafted one-off itemsthrough to costume jewellery, antique through to contemporary. It is expected that the marketwill become a regular feature of Spitalfield.

The team at Old Spitalfields Market are very pleased with their inaugural jewellery market.Andrew Sparrow, manager, said: “More than half of the available stall space was taken up;which, for a brand new market, is really good. Many of the traders have now signed up for the full series of events and further bookings are still coming in. There’s a really eclecticmix of jewellery that appeals to a wide range of shoppers. I feel confident that this event will have a long-term future here at Old Spitalfields Market.” For more information visit:www.oldspitalfieldmarket.com

MeisterSinger, the Swiss-made Germanwatch brand, has been relaunched in

the UK and, to mark the new drive, thecompany has released a sporty, limited edition version of its N°03 Automatik.Unique in the luxury watch market, thetimepiece has just a single hand – nominute hand, second hand, no second orthird time zones and no winding.

Reflecting the first timepieces of the 17thcentury, the model, which gives the wearer amore serene approach to the passing of timeis the hallmark of the MeisterSinger brand.Time is measured in five-minute increments.Quoting the company he represents, UKsales agent Paul Kustow says: “MeisterSingerhas created and crafted a stunningly sporty‘sundial for the wrist’. But, of course, it hasno need of the sun, which renders it severalshades more practical. How cool is that?”

The black PVD coated 43mm stainlesssteel case is key to the N°03’s sportyappearance. The white hand, numerals andthe hour, half and quarter hour bars contrastsharply with the red bars of the five-minutemarks. The stainless steel case is coatedwith a scratch-proof PVD finish, and iswater-resistant. The dial is protected by adomed sapphire crystal. The six screw-glassback shows the inner working of the watch,with its finely engraved ETA automaticmechanical movement. The black crocodile-

print leather strap, with its fine red stitching,adds the finishing touch to this timepiece,which retails at £1,325.

Telling the time with the single-handwatch needs a little explanation: the 12-hourdial is divided by 144 markers and eachmarker represents 5 minutes. It is 15 minutespast 10 on the watch shown. The 15, 30and 45 minute markers are bolder, and incombination with the distinctive pointedhand make it easy to read the time.

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COME AND SEE US AT IJL STAND F81

IJL Schedule: NAG Stand i90Sunday 5th September• Christmas Is Too Late To Train Your

Staff campaign• 65 years of celebrating the NAG

jewellery education and training

Monday 6th September, 1pm• Online Training launch

Tuesday 7th September, 1pm• JET Pro launch

Wednesday 8th September• Christmas Is Too Late To Train Your

Staff campaign• 65 years of celebrating the NAG

jewellery education and training

NAG SeminarsGrand Tour of Valuing Practice 2010 onPlanet Earth Date/Time: 05 Sep 2010, 15:00-16:00Location: Windsor Room (First floor)Speaker: Brian Dunn, Tutor, IRVA global snapshot of valuing practice today;the rewards or otherwise, standards expectedfrom one country to another, and in whatways we in the UK can learn from others.

Making a Success of SuccessionDate/Time: 07 Sep 2010, 15:00-16:00Location: Whitehall Room (First floor)Speaker: Mike McGrawPerhaps one of the most disruptive and vulnerable times in a business is when theexisting management passes on the baton to

new management. Irrespective of whetherthe business is large or small, consisting ofone shop or many, the need to prepare wellfor a handover remains the same.

SaferGems – A Progress ReportDate/Time: 08 Sep 2010, 12:00-13:00Location: Whitehall Room (First floor)Speaker: Michael Hoare, CEO, NAGWith shrinking resources caused by efficiencysavings, jewellers are left with demandingthe police do more with less. So the onusmust be on self help. Just over a year intoits existence, Michael Hoare introducesSaferGems; reports on work in progress and achievements to date; and talks aboutthe future of crime fighting initiatives withinthe sector.

| NAG News


With so many visitors utilising the IJLshow to order and buy for Christmas,

it is only fitting that the NAG will be kickingoff the festive season early once again witha Christmas themed stand at IJL this year.That means a Christmas tree, Christmascake and Christmas lucky dip. The decora-tions will form part of the NAG’s continuedcampaign to encourage employers to thinkabout their staff training requirements. Thecampaign explains that students who enrollon the first part of the Professional JewellersDiploma in September could have completed

JET 1 by this Christmas and be well on theway to completing JET 2 by the followingChristmas period.

The NAG has two product launchesplanned which will form a part of a packedschedule of events for the Association atthis year’s show, including seminars, infor-mation, prize draws and the usualChampagne welcome.

To kick off, the NAG’s Education Departmentwill unveil its new online courses whichpromise to make education and trainingfrom the NAG even more accessible.

Visitors to the NAG stand will be able toview the online courses for themselves. TheDepartment will then introduce the latestJET course the following day – JET Pro.

This brand new JET course complementsthe JET 1 and JET 2 programmes and isdesigned to help students develop a varietyof essential business skills. Modules canalso be studied individually to help staffconcentrate on particular subjects.

While focusing on new initiatives, the NAGwill also take the opportunity during IJL tocontinuing to celebrate 65 years of educationand training with a huge birthday-cum-Christmas cake for visitors to enjoy.

For more information call 020 76134445 (option 4), email [email protected] or visit the NAG stand i90.

The NAG at IJL

NAG Council Meeting– save the date!The forthcoming NAG Council Meeting is

to be held on Tuesday 12th October.Please note that the location and theme are yet to be confirmed; however we recommend that you save the date as wecan assure you that both the venue andspeaker will be impressive! Once again, we are extending the invitation to all NAG members and encourage everyone toattend. If you would like further information,please contact Ritu Verma on tel: 020 76134445 or email: [email protected]

NAG’s Executive DevelopmentForum boosts retail confidence

In 2009 EDF members achieved an 11 percent cumulative sales improvement and in

2010 they are holding comfortably at around12 per cent. With expert guidance from MikeMcGraw of Development Initiatives delegateswill join like-minded industry professionals toidentify areas of their business that need tochange and how to change them. The Forumwill also show how to develop a businessstrategy to meet the economic climate. Sixfully facilitated meetings a year with phone/email support between meetings could alsohelp free jewellers from retail isolation.

The 6th EDF group is now being formed.To be a part of it contact Amanda White atthe NAG on 020 7613 4445, email her at:[email protected] or visit theNAG stand i90 at IJL 2010 to find out more.


NAG News |

New Member Applications

To ensure that NAG members are aware ofnew membership applications within theirlocality, applicants’ names are publishedbelow. Members wishing to comment onany of these applications can call HarshitaDeolia on 020 7613 4445 or email: [email protected] within threeweeks of receipt of this issue.

Ordinary ApplicationsCarats Co Ltd (Ian Bishop) IpswichRing (Stuart Stanley) BrightonAleks Jewellers (Adrian Phillips) Norwich

Affiliate ApplicationsChristie’s (Russell Penny/Francois Pinault) London Silver Mine (Talat Ismail), Cheltenham

Alumni ApplicationsAbigail Francis Milek, Knaresborough

IRV Applications

If members wish to comment on any ofthese, please contact Sandra Page on(029) 2081 3615.

Upgrading from Member to FellowPeter R Buckie, Pinner

This July’s UK Jewellery Awards at theGrosvenor House Hotel in London

recognised four NAG members’ successesduring the glittering event. Beaverbrooks,Fraser Hart Fields, Jeremy France Jewellersand Keanes of Ireland all took to the stageto collect their trophy from TV personalityClaudia Winkleman. This year’s winningachievements, during such a tough climate,reflect the continued enthusiasm of all tomaintain high standards in the industry.“Competition is always a good thing, otherwise one runs the risk of complacency,”says NAG chairman Nicholas Major whoattended the Awards. “I also like to see newblood being drawn in and there were agood numbers of young designers present,many of whom I had the pleasure to meet.”Many congratulations to our NAG stars.

Retail Star of the Year Winner: Nicola Cleverley, Jeremy France JewellersRetail Employer of the YearWinner: BeaverbrooksIndependent Retailer of the YearWinner: Keanes of IrelandMultiple Retailer of the YearWinner: Fraser Hart Fields

Our congratulations!

And more congratulations!

The NAG team would like to send theirbest wishes to designer goldsmith

Annette Gabbedey and her husband NigelBowers who married on 19th June, 2010.The wedding took place in the villagechurch in Mells, Somerset and had a fewunusual touches with the groom and bestman arriving on horseback in Regency dress!Annette is based in Frome, Somerset.

Michael Hoare, NAG’s chief executive, accepted the presidency of the Institute of AssociationManagement at its Annual General Meeting in July. The honorary role, which lasts for

one year, will see Hoare oversee the activities of the IofAM, an independent professionalbody for those in charge of trade associations. Among Its 200 members are chief executivesand senior managers of trade organisations, professional institutes, charities and other repre-sentative bodies. The purpose of the Institute is the development, promotion and sharing of bestpractice through the dissemination of information and research. Speaking of his appointment Hoare said, “Things have changed a lot since I took up my first role with a trade associationsome twenty years ago; now trade association management is viewed as a profession witha distinct set of skills.”

Thanking his predecessor, Hazel Morley, chief executive of the Association of Master Saddlers,the new president complimented her on overseeing the transition to a new managementcompany and the appointment of new chief executive Paul Neal. Stating his objectives forthe year to come, Hoare confirmed that after a short period of consolidation during whichcommunications with the association community would be addressed, he hoped to see anincrease in membership and further development of the IofAM’s already successful training work.

Hoare elected new IofAM president

Telecoms can be confusing at the best oftimes. With more providers than ever

and an extremely competitive market, howdo you know what’s a good deal and what’s just cheap talk? To help retailersavoid some of the most common pitfallsthe NAG has teamed up with Uniworld,which is part of the Gamma TelecommGroup and its exclusive partner for telecoms,to provide some useful pointers.

For instance, before you sign up to a newtelecoms provider be sure to ask if the ratesyou have been shown include a call set-upcost. This is a cost that’s normally hidden inthe small print. You may think that you aregetting a great deal because you have doneyour homework but it’s a minefield. For moreinformation on this, call plans and Uniworld’spreferential rates for NAG members email:[email protected]

Nicola Cleverley accepts her award

Making sense of telecoms

| NAG News


Tell us a bit about Lumar Jewels. What’sbeen going on this year? The Lumar Jewels family business was setup in 1977 by my parents David and Jackie.I joined the company in 1993. The three ofus made a really good team – we weredynamic and had some good ideas. Thestore did so well in fact that my parentswere exhausted from all the hard work!That’s when I stepped in and took over.We’ve traditionally sold diamond and gemset jewellery, wedding rings and gold chains and bracelets, but last year we madea few changes and introduced silver, somewatch brands and also took on the beadphenomenon. The retail environment hasbeen tough and challenging this year, and you have to adapt. We also thought itwas time for a change, so we looked intoopening a new shop.

Your new store Head & Hart opens soon.How are preparations coming along? We’re nearly there! It’s been a long processfinding the right place. Location is veryimportant and we feel we’ve chosen the righttown, with the right demographic audience.Maidstone is a vibrant, busy town and weknew we wanted a high street location.We’ve created a stunning environment forcarefully selected jewellery. We thought a lot about what we wanted to stock andwe’ve chosen some of the very best of

British design. The passion for it comes acrossto the customers, and they get excited aboutit too. We’ve got fantastic staff, it’s a fledglingteam and they’re really enthusiastic.

How will the new shop differ from orcomplement Lumar Jewels ? They are both entirely different shops, butone thing is constant – they are both familybusinesses so we are aware of customerservice. That’s not to say staff employed inother shops don’t have this awareness, butwhen it’s your own business, it’s different.We always go that extra mile for customers.The difference between the shops is massive,with Head & Hart we’re creating that ‘newgeneration’ of jewellers. Also, with the nameHead & Hart we were trying to create a different identity to Lumar Jewels. The namecame about because we went into it with ourheads and hearts, and it’s that passion anddrive that’s makes us excited about jewellery.We loved the image of the stag and its connotations of heraldry, luxury, and beingroyal game and so used a little poetic licence.

What made you choose designers suchas Shaun Leane and Stephen Webster? They’re really exciting and they always wantto create something different. They’re alsovery careful about protecting their imageand their brand. Some consumers like to bedifferent and not follow trends and that’s whywe were careful about choosing particulardesigners. We looked at the brands in surrounding shops and wanted to stockexciting, cutting edge designs [which wouldbe] different to what they had.

What would you say is the secret to making a family business successful? The good thing with a family business is thatyou know how each other works, and whateach others’ strengths are. You’re also in

control of your own destiny with having yourown business. My parents never expectedme to join them – I went off and did otherthings. It was down to circumstance andchance that I took on the business. I havefour daughters and as much as I think itwould be nice for them to become a part of it, it’s also important that they create theirown independence, expand their horizonsand develop their skills. It’s not entirelyhealthy to just stay in one place your wholelife – you need to venture out to learn lifeskills. It helps you to learn to interact withother people, which is the most key thingyou can learn.

Will you be attending IJL this year? Sometimes you think you know what peoplehave got by looking through their catalogues,but when you look at some of the pieces onthe stand, you realise how nice they are.Even making contact with the people youdeal with and putting faces to names isimportant. You can’t beat hands on, face-to-face contact; the relationship between youand your customers is exactly the same.

Finally, can you share a story with ourreaders about memorable customers?I love the phrase “the customer is alwaysright”. Some time ago a little old lady cameinto the shop with a silver razor shaving setthat she wanted to return. We didn’t sell aset like it, and we never had! She said to me“you do sell them, it was in that cabinet andyou were stood right there when you soldit”. The cabinet she was pointing to hadother items in it, but she was so sure that itwas me that had sold this set to her. Afterabout five minutes, we really had to insistthat we didn’t sell it. She finally left only tocome back after half an hour and as shecame through the door she said “now this is the shop I bought it in!”

Member of the MonthThere was an air of eager anticipation at Lumar Jewels in Gravesendlast month. The husband and wife team’s business was preparingto open Head & Hart, its new flagship store in Maidstone. HarshitaDeolia was first to hear of the latest developments as she spoke toco-owner Andrew Marshall for this issue’s Member of the Month.

Tel 01271 329123 Email [email protected] Web www.kitheath.com

IJL - Stand F120

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See you all at IJL!


BJA News |

International Jewellery London will onceagain draw together the many disparate

strands of our industry and the BJA team, which will, as usual, be on handthroughout the show, are looking forward to

welcoming members toour stand number C50.

As you will see belowwe shall be offering awide range of servicesand do hope that thesewill prove useful to ourmembers.

We are also looking forward to introducingour new chief executive, Simon Rainer, tothe industry at the Show. I know that he will welcome the opportunity to meet withas many of you as possible and he and Iintend to visit as many members on theirstands as we can.

We are both looking forward to havingyour input into the future of the Association.

Mike Hughes, chairman of the BJA

BJA appointsnew CEO The British Jewellers’ Association has

announced the appointment of SimonRainer as its new chief executive.

With over 15 years experience in theinternational and domestic jewellery markets, Simon has an impressive sales,marketing and general management background having previously worked withsuch major brands as Victorinox SwissArmy, Colibri jewellery and Esprit.

Most recently, Simon has been workingout of the USA managing the distribution ofwatch and jewellery brands to major bluechip organisations, including the US Army,HSN, Sears and QVC.

Speaking about his appointment he says,“I have an extensive knowledge of jewellerymanufacturing processes, and most importantly have a thorough understandingof how the jewellery supply chain works. I understand the routes to market, withempathy for threats, challenges and opportunities that manufacturers and distributors face”.

“In my new role, I want to work closelywith the BJA membership to provide adynamic, credible, reliable and thoroughlyprofessional range of services that bestserves the needs of the British Jewelleryindustry,” he adds. “Above all, the BJA mustbe approachable with the main objective ofadding to the membership’s commercialprosperity”.

Simon, 53 is married with two daughtersand when not at work is a keen cook andenjoys following both cricket and football.

Designer Maker MentoringThe BJA’s Lindsey Straughton will be availableto assist newcomers to the industry withtaking the next step forward in their careers.Bring samples of your work for her to critique and for advice on pricing, marketingand trade shows.

Product InformationThe BJA team has in-depth knowledge of the industry and can save visitors considerable time by pointing them tomember companies producing those products they are seeking.

Intellectual PropertyStephen Welfare and the team from RoydsLLP solicitors will be available daily to consult with members who have copyrightand other IP problems or queries.

On-the-spot Credit ChecksEnsure that potential new customers arecreditworthy with immediate credit checksvia Experian.

Business PerksThe BJA offers a wide range of businessservices to its members ranging from specialist insurance and credit controlthrough to discounts at trade events andassistance with PR and publicity.

Export and Import AdviceMike Josypenko, manager of BritishJewellery & Giftware International, will be onhand during Tuesday 7th Sept 10.30am to12 noon and 3.30pm to 5.30pm to provideexpert advice and information.

Visit us on Stand C50 to find out more

Services from the BJA at IJL

Studying bio-chemistry at Imperial College,London is an unusual early career path

for a jeweller but then Alexander Davis, ashis recent meteoric rise to success only goesto prove, is indeed unusual and has risen,with no formal jewellery or design training,to become the toast of the industry.

Davis’s love affair with jewellery began atschool where he learnt basic bench skills andcontinued with a number of short practicalcourses at West Dean College and LondonMetropolitan University undertaken duringhis degree. He then worked for variousgoldsmiths in London before starting up his first jewellery business ‘Rowan Davis’with a friend from school.

“It all happened rather by accident. Westarted producing branded cufflinks forschools including Eton College and Harrowand things evolved from there,” he told me.

In 2007 Davis decided to create his firstfine jewellery collection for Goldsmiths’ Fair.His distinctive style draws on a number ofinfluences – not least his background as abio-chemist – and includes designs based onmolecules and DNA as well as on architecture– most particularly Winchester Cathedralwhere he played the organ as a child.

“I started off in silver and moved up to18ct gold, platinum, diamonds and strikinggemstones. As well as molecules and architecture, I also have a number of more

conceptual cutting-edge pieces such as my‘Grand Canyon’ ring and ‘Diadem’ two-fingerring in platinum which won the EmergingDesigner’s category in the 2010 LonminDesign Innovation Award,” he says.

Over the past three years Davis has established a number of prestigious outletsfor his work and is stocked by many of themajor galleries in the South East of England.

He has also, thanks to his participation in theBJA’s highly successful London JewelleryExports (LJE) project, explored a number ofexport markets.

“ I exhibited with LJE at Inhorgenta and atthe French exhibition, Kara, at the Louvreand firmly believe that my participation inthese events helped to boost the profile ofmy brand and to put me in touch with anumber of excellent contacts,” he says.

The BJA has also helped Davis to raise hisprofile nearer to home. When I spoke with himhe had recently returned from attending aCompany of Master Jewellers meeting wherehe was showing his collections to its membersas part of a group of promising designers.

While Davis provides stockists with a widechoice of off-the-shelf pieces, his real love isbespoke design and this is one of the mainreasons why he has now opened his ownretail outlet in the West End of London, underthe new brand name ‘Alexander Davis’. The location he has chosen was previouslyan extremely successful shop for StephenWebster – who has moved on to largerpremises – and it is difficult not to draw parallels between the two.

The look of the shop, which Davis hasentirely refurbished, is, he says, a fusion ofthe modern and baroque, and is perfect forhis purposes. “This is a fabulous locationjust next door to Selfridges and The WallaceCollection. I am running it as an atelier withmy workshop on the premises and visitorshave to make an appointment to see me.The stock is 80 percent of my own designsbut I also carry a small selection of workfrom other high-end, luxury designer peersin the industry. The main thrust however isto make individual pieces for my clients. I’mstill very much the new kid on the block butthings are looking good,” he says.


| BJA Profile

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Dark Romance sapphiretrillion Ring in 18ctwhite gold

New kid on the blockBJA member Alexander Davis has been voted ‘New Designer ofthe Year’ in the recent 2010 UK Jewellery Awards. Mary Brittainspoke to him to discover the secret of his success.

His distinctive style includesdesigns based on moleculesand DNA as well as onarchitecture…

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If to you Hot Diamonds means ‘safe’ silvergift lines and you think you know its

collections, its ethos, its place in the market– it’s probably because you haven’t had agood look at it lately. And you certainly haven’t met Jonathan Crocker, its relativelyrecently-appointed managing director – aman who is more than ready to debunk a few preconceptions.

“Being a brand is not about staying still –you have to develop,” he insists. And heshould know; he brings with him a wealth ofexperience from the world of ‘real’ brands(his word, not mine) most recently Bang &Olufsen. Which means that he doesn’t talklike your average jewellery supplier – he talkslike someone who has paid a lot of attentionin all those motivational, empowerment,brand-building type seminars that are thelifeblood of a global name.

And I mean that in the nicest possibleway… really. Crocker’s enthusiasm for andbelief in the reawakened Hot Diamondspositively bounces off him. It couldn’t havebeen for my benefit alone. He’s a man who smiles a lot – which must make for acheerful work environment at the very least.

“It’s been crucial for me to have someonecome in from the ‘outside’,” says creativedirector Julie Large, who has led the design team since 2002. “Jonathan’s fresheyes on the company and collections havebeen revitalising.”

And it is through the revitalisation of theproduct itself, that you experience the tangi-ble evidence of the change in the brand.While the core range of popular and suc-cessful silver jewellery with its trademarkdiamond accent, remains in place, the focusof attention has shifted to something farmore contemporary, edgy and definitely

| Feature


Jewellerthe

Brand ProfileHot Diamonds

Led by a handful of ‘names’, the business of brands is a relativelynew phenomenon in the jewellery industry. Now Hot Diamonds,one of those pioneering companies, feels that as it hits its tenthanniversary, the time is ripe for a redefining shot in the arm, as Belinda Morris discovers. An image from the new 2010 campaign

“When we split the portfoliowe wanted to add design-led, self-purchase pieces – in short, jewellery that I wanted to wear…”Gold vermeil ring from the Bali range in the

Black collection

Driftwood Cuff from the Ionia range in theBlack collection A cuff from the new Men’s collection


Feature |

less ‘safe’. Hot Diamonds is moving in stepwith a style-savvy consumer hungry forinnovation and, crucially, difference.

“When we split the portfolio we wanted to add design-led, self-purchase pieces – in short, jewellerythat I wanted to wear,” explainsLarge. “We wanted to create amore challenging look, but still ata competitive price point.” The resultis Black. It’s a collection that Crockerdescribes as having “something ofthe night – daring, sexy… all the thingsthat were not in the Hot Diamondbrand before”.

But crucially, it allows for a level of creativity and exclusivity without destroyingthe existing core lines. “This is a differentdesign language –we’re talking to a differentaudience, a more grown-up, indulgent, self-purchasing customer,” says Large, “and soBlack will open for us the doors to retailerswho do not want to carry X, Y or Z brands.”

It’s the kind of collection of impactive,statement items – there are even media-attracting catwalk pieces that found their

way onto the Bafta red carpet earlier thisyear – that needs its own brand-definingenvironment to show it off to best effect. In stark contrast to the familiar red backdropfor the existing lines, Black has been given amore sleek and urban display environment.

Ebony-coloured woodwork, with white interior and shots of vivid pink, it conveys

the message that Hot Diamonds isless a trade commodity and more aconsumer brand. “We want to movewhat was a great trade product, to adesirable, cool product,” says Crocker,

who is also quick to point out thatthe furniture is not being imposeddictatorially upon retailers.As any brand worth its salt should

do, Hot Diamonds has spent time considering how it should communicateits new essence – expressed in human

terms as brave (new materials), loving(with soul), playful (new ways of wearing)and generous (scale and service). Peter Bur Andersen – who looks spookily similarto Crocker, possibly not coincidentally – ofCopenhagen-based Bur Retail Intelligence,works closely with the small managementteam to build and help develop the identityof Hot Diamonds. Witness the moodyadvertising images; the on-line newsletters;the ever-so-slightly risqué catch line: Do youremember of the first time? “Self-definition

– it’s all about how you want other peopleto perceive you,” says Crocker. “Our brand isour personality.”

Retailers will be given a chance to decidefor themselves what they make of this personality at IJL this year. Expect to see acutting-edge stand (lots of shiny, reflectivematerial) and be shown a taster of the newdedicated, military-inspired men’s collection(which is to have its true launch with a military charity on Armistice Day). “Havingpulled away from trade shows for a whilewe’re putting ourselves back in the worldnow that we’re ready to show where we are and what we are today,” says Crocker.“We’re not about status quo – we defineourselves as leaders. We have to challengeourselves in that way.”Jonathan Crocker and Julie Large in the Hot Diamond's showroom

“This is a different design language –we’re talking to a different audience, a moregrown-up, indulgent customerwho buys for herself”

A green graphite Twilight bracelet from theSelene range in the Black collection

| Opinion : John Henn


The second EDF congress kicked off at therather alternative Said Business School

in Oxford. The building hadn’t grown anymore appealing since my last visit a yearearlier, and it remained as elusive as ever,confounding a number of sat navs. Ridingthe bike down I was taking no chances andfound it on Google Earth beforehand.

Mike McGraw gave us a resumé of theyear since our last meeting and in generalwe were doing better than the trend.SaferGems was gaining momentum, with105 reported security alerts with direct evidence that subscribers had benefitedfrom information about events in theirareas. Remember it is free to subscribe, allyou have to do is… subscribe.

Three presentations were coming ourway in the course of the day and they beganwith Sophie Hudson, whose department youcontact when your Tui Thomson holidayincludes some unscheduled events.

She was a revelation in customer service– while looking the other way she hadagreed to spend a few months in theComplaints Department of the company,and some two years later had transformed aworkforce that didn’t enjoy a minute of its very

busy day into one that was resolving issuesand, more importantly, keeping customers.Previously they had been given 20 minutesto spend on each complaint, and not surprisingly very few clients came back.

She talked of how they now give a clienttheir own website to view the countdown to their holiday. Here they had their own‘Rough Guide’ to their destination, and couldplan visits, restaurants, car hire. I did like the

communication [Thomson now have] withthe client once a booking has been made.Could we do something like this on our ownsites that could encourage clients to followthe progress of their orders/ repairs, thusfreeing the phone from those calls of ‘whenwill it be available to collect’? Recognising

returning clients; ensuring good first impres-sions; efficient, intelligent staff who inspiredconfidence should a problem develop, wereall in her ‘things that matter most’ section.There was plenty of overlap between ourtrades.

Next up was the great husband and wifeteam, ‘Virada Training’. They played out anumber of customer/sales staff interactions,all of which we would probably admit to having seen before in our own stores.The intention was to understand where inthe buying process each of the ‘customers’was. When it was broken down in front of us of course we all worked it out, butwhen the floor was asked, what would your reply be to a client saying “I quite likethat one” the reply of “how would you liketo pay” was not what Virada were lookingfor! They had a selection of approaches thatwould impress a parliamentary candidatewith the ease at which information could be gleaned from the target. I liked themenormously and will, if practical, apply for asoftware upgrade for all of us at TAH.

Finally Mark Giddings talked to us aboutthe importance of design in our stores and explained some fundamental lay-outcriteria. His enthusiasm for his art was infectious and he covered everything fromneatly priced, well-dressed windows, to thefull customer experience in a number ofimpressive high street, and exclusive storesnames. He had us, in our minds, walking upto our stores with our eyes half closed,experiencing the impressions from 15, 10and three metres away, by which point you have five seconds to encourage a newclient to walk in. If they see brightness,colour and fresh clean displays, you’ve amuch greater chance of encouraging themto want to buy into your world. There is nodoubt he speaks the truth, just look at thestores listed in the latest Retail Jewellerbooklet of the top thirty most inspiring independent retail jewellers in the UK – nota stereotype to be seen anywhere.

We all dispersed to our various homesaround the country to return to work thenext day and implement something new.On Saturday, as a client was leaving thestore without making a purchase of a silvercross, I asked in my silkiest voice as to why he hadn’t purchased the item he soobviously liked. He replied, “it’ll leave meshort for the vodka”. Sign me up Virada!

Revelations from the EDF CongressWe were all accounted for, 35 in place and five with vettedexcuses – another summer, another eye-opening series ofunmissable industry presentations.

They had a selection ofapproaches that wouldimpress a parliamentarycandidate with the ease atwhich information could begleaned from the target.

μ-XRFthink forward

Bruker is one of the largest manufacturers of scientifi c instruments in the world. The X-Ray Spectrometry division has been making innovative instruments for more than 30 years and is the recipient of several industry and scientifi c awards. The latest product line is for micro-X-ray Fluorescence Analysis with the instruments M1 MISTRAL and M1 ORA. These have been specifi cally designed for the accurate analysis of precious metal alloys allied with safety and ease of use. X-Ray fl uorescence offers a fast, non-destructive and accurate determination of all components in an alloy.

Whether buying or selling, it is important to know the assay accurately and quickly and, importantly for fi nished items, non-destructively. Both for manufacturers of jewellery and for dealers there is a need for a quick and exact means of testing. To get the most accurate assay it is essential to provide versatile software to quickly identify the elements present and then calculate and display the result. The result can then be printed out as a customised report.

As the system is totally enclosed and interlocked there is no danger of any scattered radiation to the operator. Using the inbuilt video microscope simply focus on the area to be tested, close the door, press the button and in as little as 5 seconds identify the alloy with its assay. You can even test just the pin on an earring or a setting on a ring. For plated items it is possible to penetrate the layers to assay the alloy underneath as well as to determine the thickness of the coating.

At the heart of the M1 MISTRAL is the revolutionary Bruker XFlash® silicon drift detector, providing excellent analytical performance. Using the pre-calibrated programs will give a deviation of only 0.1 % to 0.2 %. Making company specifi c calibrations can result in a deviation of better than 0.1 %.

Ready to work upon delivery the system is supplied with a laptop, just plug in and it’s ready to go. The operators can add their own

standards to make specifi c calibrations. There is even powerful software included to process measured spectra. With negligible running and maintenance costs and results within a few seconds, what more could you want?

Au / wt.% Carat Deviation / wt.%

33–45 8 to 12 0.18

45–60 12 to 14 0.16

60–85 14 to 20 0.15

85–100 20 to 24 0.14

For further information email [email protected] or visit http://www.bruker-axs.com/m1-mistral.html

Accurate AssaysUsing X-ray Fluorescence Analysis for Fast and Non-destructive Precious Metal Alloy Testing

A D V E R T O R I A L


The Jeweller: Are you saying that it’s notnecessary for an independent jeweller toblow his whole watch budget for a year onone or two Maurice Lacroix watches?Mark Sutcliffe: Exactly. Because of thereduction of supply of movements –ebouches – we opened our own movementmanufacturing facility which in turn movedpart of our brand into the luxury end of themarket with the Masterpiece collection. Butdespite this fact, the core element ofMaurice Lacroix – 80 percent of the volume– is in classic, automatic and quartz models.

TJ: So it’s a far more commercial collectionthan many people probably imagine?MS: Yes it is. We can offer retailers an independent Swiss brand – high-qualitySwiss-made watches – starting from around£600 and rising to £2,500. For an investmentof as little as £12,000, jewellers can take on a classic Maurice Lacroix range, which israre for a quality-manufacture Swiss brand. In fact it’s less than the retail price of one of our own manufacture rose gold chronographs!

TJ: This information will presumably comeas a surprise as well as good news to manyjewellers who have fairly small businesses?MS: Because of the high profile nature ofthe Masterpiece watches, which do receive

a lot of media attention, it’s probably fair tosay that many of these jewellers don’t knowthat Maurice Lacroix offers a commerciallypriced range as well. We’re actively lookingto redress that situation. A lot of independentsare being pushed heavily by the bigger watchgroups into carrying large stock values, but because we’re independent ourselves,we don’t have such rigorous rules.

TJ: Describe the key commercial ranges inthe Maurice Lacroix collection.MS: There are three: Pontos – so-called asit was created to be a bridge between the quartz watches and the Masterpiece collection – has a younger, architecturalstyle. The dials are more contemporary andthe sapphire crystal case backs allow thewearer to see the movements. The watchesare also larger – 42mm cases – and use avariety of automatic movements. The pricesstart from around £1,400.

This year we introduced Les Classiqueand as the name suggests, this is a rangethat is classic, slimmer and smaller indesign. In fact it’s very ‘on-trend’, with fashion directions moving towards moreunderstated styling and cleaner indices.There are men’s and ladies’ models in thecollection, which retails from around £650.The quartz styles and the ladies’ watchesfeature stainless steel bracelet straps, whilethe automatics have mainly leather straps.

When Maurice Lacroix launched in the UK a few years ago, thefocus of attention – pretty understandably – was on the Swissbrand’s fabulously technical and very high end timepieces. But that is only part of the story, as Mark Sutcliffe, managingdirector of Maurice Lacroix UK explains.

A D V E R T O R I A L

Crossing the line

LesClassique


The final collection is Fiaba, which is adedicated ladies’ line and has been designedspecifically to be more feminine – ratherthan a scaled-down version of a men’stimepiece. It has a rectangular curved faceand comes with either a leather strap orstainless steel bracelet. The starting price is

£750, rising to £2,000 for thewatch set with diamonds. For 2011this range is going to be developedfurther.

TJ: Presumably jewellers who carry the Pontos, Classique and Fiaba collections can benefit from the sameMaurice Lacroix advertising as the morespecialised Masterpiece watches enjoy?MS: Of course. Our line ‘Follow yourconvictions’ applies equally across all collections. We are appealing across theboard to a consumer who buys MauriceLacroix because they like the design andthe integrity of an independent Swisswatch brand and do not necessarily copywhat their friends are wearing. It’s moreabout the person than the big name.

And that’s why we chose our three international brand ambassadors: Sir BobGeldof – well, everyone knows that he’s aman who follows his convictions; JustinRose, the golfer who, against all advice,turned pro at 17 and then, after two years,became Europe’s number one and JimmyWales, who, with the conviction that knowledge should be free to the world,invented Wikipedia. It’s great that two ofthese three are from the UK!

TJ: And the core Maurice Lacroix ranges also have a strong presence at variousbrand activities…MS: Yes, along with images of the ambassadors, we animate the rangesthrough our corporate events. In the UKMaurice Lacroix sponsors the SuperstockPowerboat Championships and this seriesof grand prix races at various locationsaround the British Isles, really adds a glamorous, luxury image to the brand. A Pontos Chronograph is awarded to thewinning pilots of each race – at 80 mph inrough seas, they really are demonstratingthe courage of their convictions! Windowdisplays showing DVDs of the races – aswell as pictures of Bob and Justin – furtheremphasise the prestige as well as the individuality of this quality Swiss timepiece.

For more information contact Mark Sutcliffeat Desco Luxury UK Ltd, 020 8749 2405

For an investment of as little as £12,000, jewellers can takeon a classic Maurice Lacroix range, which is rare for a quality-manufacture Swiss brand.

Maurice Lacroix brand ambassador Sir BobGeldof as featured on the cover of the Juneissue of The Jeweller magazine

Fiaba

Pontos

There’s always an air of feverish anticipation before a major jewellery fair and this year, with close to 500 exhibitors showing at IJL, the mood is almost palpable. The impressive

and promising figure is one that has been matched by a substantial increase in visitor registration on last year.

The 2010 event is packed with some of the best-known and most exciting names in Britishand international jewellery – some showing for the first time, others returning to the fold tolaunch new brands and images. And as always, an impressive muster of new designers andcompanies will be injecting a breath of fresh new sparkle into the event.

The as-yet-undiscovered ‘next big talents’ – as chosen by a panel of fashion and lifestyleeditors – can be seen on the Bright Young Gems stand, including the recipient of the GoldAward given by Bec Clarke of top jewellery retailer Astely Clarke. And if the media view on jewellery is of interest, check out the Editor’s Choice – a selection of designers chosen infour categories by leading jewellery and watch writer Claire Adler. Elsewhere in the show,another initiative to draw attention to fledgling talent is KickStarters – a line-up of ten designerswho have benefited from a bursary scheme launched by IJL together with the BJA. DaisyKnights, a Bright Young Gem of 2009 is among them.

With my consumer as well as my press hat on, I’m drawnmoth-like to the stands of inspirational jewellery designers,so I hope great numbers of retailers will also venture alongto these areas, as well as to the Design Gallery – now at thefront of the hall – where some of the more establishednames in British and international jewellery design can befound: Alexander Davis, Babette Wasserman, Chris Hawkins,FSA, Malcolm Morris, Rachel Galley and Tomasz Donocikamong the ones to watch.

For those visiting IJL with a very focussed brief to seek outwhite metal, a good starting point would be to follow thePlatinum Trail. For the third year running Platinum GuildInternational has highlighted, within special displays, the latestcollections from platinum manufacturers, such as Anriawhich manufactures fine, diamond set Indian jewellery andimports platinum chains. Retailers will also have the chanceto vote for their favourite display.

For the first time this year, a selection of events will be held at the Boulevard Bar, includingwhat is now an established part of IJL, the lively Great Debate, presented in partnership withthe Birmingham Assay Office, which will also be hosted in this area. Industry figures willdebate the hot topic: Making Fairtrade and Fairmined Gold a Reality and issues such as ethical sourcing; what the jewellery industry can do to improve the lives of miners and their

| IJL Preview


Stand & DeliverIt’s that time of year again… jewellery buyers from around theworld are preparing their assault on Earl’s Court – the venuefor London’s largest and most important jewellery show.Belinda Morris looks at the who, what and where of IJL.

communities, and how toimplement ResponsibleJewellery Council (RJC)independent audits. TheGreat Debate (Sunday5th, 1.30pm) hopes toprovoke thought, stimulatediscussion, share ideas and prompt actionin relation to the ethical issues that confrontconsumers and the trade.

This will be followed on Monday 6th at 1.30pm by an Implementation Worshopgiven by the Responsible Jewellery Council and open to both RJC members and non-members. And on Wednesday 8th at 11am a panel of traders will share theirexperiences in sourcing, auditing and marketing ethically sourced products… and the challenges that presents.

In addition, IJL, as ever, has put togethera comprehensive and complimentary programme of seminars, divided inro specific streams: Retail Strategies for Success;Technical Skills & Product Knowledge;Jewellery Trends and Multi-Channel Retailing.Leading designer Stephen Webster hasrecently been announced as one of the keytrend speakers He will be focussing on

men’s jewellery in a seminar entitled ‘The evolution of men and their jewellery –from medallions on a bed of hair to a fullchest wax and rosaries’. How could youpossibly miss that?! He will cover everythingfrom changing trends in men’s jewellery, to why his men’s jewellery is so popular,who is buying it and what can help retailerssell more men’s jewellery.

IJL will open at 9am each day this year (rather than the usual time of 10am)so that visitors have more time to get as involved as possible with all aspects ofthe show, as well as browse, network anddo business. And don’t forget that IJL iscompletely free to attend, for those whoregister prior to the event. Simply visit:www.jewellerylondon.com/nag

The 2010 event is packedwith some of the best-known and most excitingnames in British and international jewellery…

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K E Y L A U N C H E S 2 0 1 0

Rachel Entwistle Stand A601Featuring silk embroidery on fine velvet, set in sterling silver, Mexican-inspired Xochiti is abold, colourful and luxurious limited edition collection. There are three styles of necklaces and earrings in a variety of striking colourways.

BQ Watches Stand H48Tapping into the growing market for pre-owned Rolex watches Ian Schaffer ofBQ Watches will be offering some of themost sought-after models such as theSubmariner Date, Sea Dweller, Oyster andDaytona. “They still look new, depreciatevery slowly, cost a lot less than new watches and offer fantastic investmentpotential,” he explains. The company willalso be offering a wide range of ladies’ andgents’ Datejust alongside other popularmodels like Air-King and Milgauss.

Spinning JeweleryStand F81Trust Me is a necklace from the new line by Spinning Jewelry – a leader in the composable jewellery market. Rings, earrings,bracelets and necklaces using silver, gold ordiamonds, can be stacked or mixed andmatched to suit the wearer’s personal styleor mood. From DMJ.

Curteis Stand H110A brand new and very modern-look standwill not only showcase the new collectionsfrom Curteis but also introduce visitors to thecompany’s new trade website. Improvednavigation, better search facilities, enhanceddelivery information and improved customercare with an express customer contact serviceare among the new features it offers.

Just J Stand F81This heart and anchor piece in solid silver is part of the new Wave of Love collectionby Just J (which also includes pink gold and features peace and love symbols).Once tied onto a ribbon or silk cord the jewellery can then be wrapped around thewrist, ankle or neck to create a fun, personalstatement look. Distributed by DMJ.

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Kit Heath Stand F120Attention to detail shines from each curveand each unexpected twist of finely craftedsilver in Kit Heath’s new collection. The heavyinfluence of a love of nature can be seen in an assortment of leaf pendants, charmsand an Indian inspired paisley design. Thenew range sees subtle injections of colour inblue jade, smoky rose quartz and blueagate, decorating bold, engraved cocktailrings and pendant necklaces.

Storywheels Stand F81Made from gold, silver, diamonds and pearls, Storywheels represents the ultimate in composablejewellery – each piece, whether a bracelet, necklace, pendant, earrings or ring becoming atrue investment as well as a string of memories. Distributed by DMJ.

Nexus Pearls Stand i78Building on the demand for high quality jewellery, Nexus Pearls will be launching anew range of Certified Diamonds and Pearlsat IJL. As well as classic brilliant cut diamonds,the new range of pendants will also featurefancy cut shapes and colours used withTahitian and South Sea cultured pearls.Multi-coloured Tahitian cultured pearl necklaces will also be shown, with naturaltones and long layered lengths being amajor trend this year.

Moon JewelleryStand G120Designed and developed in Northern Ireland,Moon jewellery offers a contemporary yet elegant combination of sterling silverand gemstones for a variety of capsule collections. The brands has future plans tocollaborate with designers to create theirown signature style lines.

ElodieStand i108Silver and gemstones cometogether with vivid flashesof colour: pink sapphires,cool aquamarines, deepblue tanzanite, lustrouspearls and diamondsembellish cocktail ringsand pendant necklaces.Stones highlight richly burnished silver and canbe seen in the must-have,stacking bangles and rings.

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Giorgio Martello Stand E101The rhodium-plated sterling silver collection by Milan-based Giorgio Martello includes thepopular fashion concept of stacking rings, available in various stone colours and settings. Alsothis season will see around 400 new clip-on silver charms in the Lucky Charms collection.

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Nicky Vankets Stand F81Trained as a fashion designer, Belgian NickyVankets has since launched his own jewellerycollection of innovative, style-conscious,pretty and affordable pieces using a mix ofmaterials, including brass for oversized hoopearrings. Distributed by DMJ.

Chris Hawkins Design Gallery Stand C21Following the success of his Corvid collection launched at IJL last year, men’s jewellerydesigner Chris Hawkins has developed the line further. This chunky, spiky silver bracelet, notfor the faint-hearted, has been joined by fox and rabbit cufflinks. Also new is a line of roughdiamond engagement rings with a dark twist…

Glam Rock Stand F81This new Gulfstream watch is from the newcollection of timepieces by über glamorousGlam Rock (from DMJ). Launched last yearthe line is already finding favour with thefashion crowd who are attracted by a watchthat can match any outfit – watch and strapscan be changed at the flick of a finger. �

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Goldmajor Stand F39Besides its renowned, classic amber and silver pieces, Goldmajor will also be launchingjewellery that combines silver with variouscoloured gemstones in the JW Design range.Marcasite, jet, sardonyx and aventurine are among the latest additions; while the JW Man line introduces steel, carbon fibreand tungsten.

K E Y L A U N C H E S 2 0 1 0

MQ Jewels Stand E143British born designer Marium Qaiser revealsher passion for gemstones in a collection ofintricate, sculptural pieces that ooze glamourand femininity. While classic and vintage references are clear in her work, the pieces– in 18ct gold, gold plate, sterling silver andrhodium – also have a contemporary touch.

Unique Stand E101This very contemporary collection in sterling silver (as well as 24ct gold plated silver for certaindesigns) features simple graphic forms such as circles, flowers and leaves to create organic,three-dimensional pieces. Fresh water pearls and coloured stones are also used to complementthe designs. The men’s collection works with braided leather, stainless steel, titanium andtungsten for the strong, masculine look.

Jersey Pearl Stand G70Inspired by the beauty of the Jersey lily(amaryllis belladonna) Jersey Pearl will belaunching its new Lily collection. This pendantis one of the pieces created using rhodiumplated sterling silver, but other designsincororate matte brushed satin 9ct yellowgold with a shiny white gold finish… and ofcourse, a pearl.

PJ Watson Stand G101Two new rings, one with a natural pink diamond, the other with a natural blue diamond, willbe able to be viewed in a whole new light as PJ Watson not only introduces its new collectionbut also a new lighting system. Unveiled at Basel, Dialumen uses LEDs which emit cold and warm light alternately which recreates the natural effect of sunlight – perfect for makingdiamonds and gemstones really sparkle. A joint venture with the Swiss company will allowvisitors to the stand to experience the innovation.

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For more information please

contact DMJ on

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or visit our website

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K E Y L A U N C H E S 2 0 1 0

Donald Clarke Stand F41In sterling silver, Bella is the new collection of charm jewellery from Donald Clarke. All fittedwith triggers for easy attachment to bracelets and pendants, the charms feature many stonesas well as CZ, Murano glass, pearls and enamel. Also showcasing will be the Baby Bella rangeas well as a new line of stone set, enameled and plain stacker rings.

Nomination Stand F101Rose gold combined with sterling silver creates intricate designs in Taormina, one ofthe four new lines in Nomination’s Argentocollection. Positano using pearls and CZ;Amalfi – linked curves of sterling silver andPanarea with splashes of coral, lapis lazuli andturquoise make up the rest of the collectionof earrings, pendants, rings and bracelets.

Eastern MysticStand C44Drawing on her Indian background, British-born designer (and ex-banker) Sonal Talgeri-Bhaskran has created a collection of strikinglyglamorous, handmade pieces using gem-stones, Fairtrade gold vermeil, 18ct gold andsilver. From myths and folkore to Mughalsand warrior princesses, the collections evokethe richness of her cultural heritage.

Julie Sandlau Stand F81Best known for her feminine shapes andcolourful stones, red carpet favourite JulieSandlau has created one of the strongestjewellery collections this autumn with herbold Deco collection, using black onyx andcubic zirconia. Distributed by DMJ.

Hot DiamondsStand G130Celebrating its 10th anniversary with a returnto IJL on a wow-factor stand, Hot Diamondswill be showcasing its new Black collectionof design-led, statement pieces. There willalso be a sneak preview of the new, military-inspired men’s collection as well, of course,as the latest additions to the popular corerange of silver and diamond gift jewellery. �

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K E Y L A U N C H E S 2 0 1 0

Belle Etoile Stand F81This sleek and contemporary bracelet is fromthe new collection by Belle Etoile. Renownedfor its use of enamel and contrasting colours,the statement jewellery brand will also beshowing pieces in CZ, silver, quartz, motherof pearl and shell pearl – combined withfine Italian rubber. Distributed by DMJ.

Sheila Fleet Stand A49Following on from her Shoreline Pebble andAtlantic Swell collections, Orkney-baseddesigner Sheila Fleet will introduce RockPool at IJL. Limpid blue enamel is encasedin silver for the organically-shaped pieces.

So Jewellery Stand A59Short-listed for the Gift of the Year 2010award, So’s Sphere pendants will see somenew additions at IJL. The ’mix and match’spheres will include diamond-cut, satin andhigh shine balls which can be combined orthreaded ’solo’ on to extendable chains tocreate individual looks.

One Jewels Stand E101Launched last year, the One Jewels range ofvariable jewellery systems now includes over30 new elements and discs to the concept,to give the line a new dimension. The newelements, which are crafted from plain silveror in combination with CZ, can also be usedtogether with beads, for a totally flexible lookfor rings, earrings and necklaces.

a.b.art Stand G48This leather-strapped watch is one of thetwo new styles in Swiss brand a.b.art’sladies’ collection. The wide, clear dial with just the quarter hours marked out isavailable with a choice of silver, black or reddial. Another style features a denim colouredsquare dial and strap.

Mounir Design Gallery Stand C48 These sterling silver and 9ct gold chandlier earrings with a combination of freshwater pearlsand lemon quartz, pink toumaline, prenite beads and cultured pearls are among the colourfularray of jewellery from Mounir this season. Also included are brilliantly coloured pendants andrings featuring minaret cut facetted gemstones.

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Cmatch your Colour

Tel: 07884 [email protected] - www.5c-group.com

Stand G78

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Peter Lang Stand i69Australian jewellery designer Peter Lang, whose collections are renowned for their darkly gothic,luxury vintage look as well as their celebrity following, will be launching his autumn collectionat IJL. Gemstones, Swarovski crystals and pearls feature in this hand-made collection.

Step by Step Stand G48A mix of quality metals and rubber in a calm palette of black, red, silver, sand andgold creates a distinctive impact in thishandcrafted Swiss collection. Necklaces canbe worn long or wrapped around, whilebracelets, rings, earrings and brooches makeup the rest of this 1,000 or so piece range.

Silver Cherry Stand C59Combining sterling silver with a mix ofunusual gemstones, Silver Cherry jewelleryis exclusively designed in the UK. The new,competitively-priced collection is inspired bynature and features intricate work.

Silver Willow Stand F28The Stack Ring Co. offers a range of rhodiumplated, sterling silver rings that can be wornindividually but create individual looks whenstacked together – using textured bands asspacers. Faceted gems, pearls, enamel flowersand love hearts in a variety of shapes andsizes add further statement touches.

Susie WarnerDesign Gallery Stand E16In sterling silver and 18ct gold vermeil and embellished with gemstones, SusieWarner’s Objet Trouvé and Trousseau rangesdraw inspiration from literature. The SecretGarden provided flowers, birds and mythicalcreatures, while the Regency noveletteEvelina lends the romance.

Ag Silver Stand C14Ag’s Filigree collection has been expandedin this, the company’s 10th anniversary year,to include a detailed marquise set of pendantand drop earrings, which are available inplain polished silver or silver with 18ct goldfinish. Also new this year are designs featuringstars, cobwebs and snowflakes.


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Lily Blanche Stand E89Audrey Hepburn meets Lady Gaga is how jewellery designers, sistersLyndsey Bowditch and Gillian Crawford, describe their Lily Blanchecollection which uses sterling silver as well as freshwater pearls.Charms are a key part of the romantic and glamorous collection,including a globe which opens to take six photographs.

Trollbeads Stand F80The original bead brand, Trollbeads continues to create new, intricateand highly individual beads for its legion of fans. Tones of green with silver and white and combinations of purple, black and gold with pearl and silver highlights are key features of the new Noir collection. �

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Shaun Leane Stand G99These silver hoops with black spinel leaves and pearls are from the new Blackthorn collectionby award winning designer Shaun Leane. Also drawing on his love of nature is the Hawthorncollection with its sensual, fluid gold branches holding clusters of rose gold berries with citrine.The serpent collection is the new men’s line that combines silver with red and white gold.

Tocs Stand F81Tocs – Timepieces of Colour and Style – isa new watch collection which will belaunched at IJL this year. Fun, decorative and(in other cases) bright and colourful, thewaterproof (to 100 meters) watches withsilicon straps are ideal for the beach or asgifts. Distributed by DMJ.

Domino Stand G111Domino’s dramatically expanded range nowcomprises around 1,500 designs. Unique toDomino are the finished jewellery and jewellery components in the Originals rangein various set or un-set precious metals.Diamond necklaces, bracelets and earringsmake up the Rosabella line; Siena offers dressrings, necklaces and earring suites featuringgemstones and Flow, with its organic shapesis available in all 18ct gold alloys and platinum. Also on show will be the conceptpieces in the Trends and Fashion collection.

Muru Stand E70Winner of the Editor’s Choice Award at IJL 09, Muru is introducing a shot of colour to itsdesign-led collections. The new silver styles feature chequerboard-cut stones (includingfacetted turquoise, lavender and jade) for cocktail rings and cluster charm necklaces. Alsonew will be a selection of sculptural silver pieces for charm bracelets.

Mirri Damer Stand B20In 18ct yellow gold with green sapphires,these Cluster earrings will be among thenew collection being showcased in the DesignPavilion by contemporary designer/makerMarri Damer. Sculptural in form and withhighlights of gemstones, the popular Budand Pebble Stack lines will be joined by newdesigns this season.

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| BJA at IJL


1 Nicole Akong – used to sit at herdesk in the City dreaming of doing somethingcreative. Then, in 2008, a jewellery-makingcourse revealed a hidden talent. The resultingdesigns attracted so much attention thatshe took a leap of faith and launched,Akong London, earlier this year. Nicoledesigns jewellery as fashion statements and status symbols. Each piece embodiesthe spirit of haute couture, using high-qualitymaterials, constructed with extreme attentionto detail.

2 Saretta – Creative Director, Sarah Bond– a trained anthropologist – founded Sarettawith a vision to make wearable couture-style

jewellery using ethically sourced preciousmetals and gemstones. Her experienceworking with local communities in Africa,Asia and South America led her to focus her attentions on promoting Fair Traderesponsible mining for gemstones and bullion. Techniques including the lost-waxmethod, recycling metals and reforming givea unique finish to pieces created in silver,gold and platinum.

3 Daisy Choi – Clerkenwell-based jewelleryartist designer-maker Choi has a backgroundin 2D and 3D design, which is reflected inher work – combining the two to createplayful yet functional jewellery. Her design

ideas are inspired by everyday objects, andblend artistic expression with wearability.The new collections, ‘Diamond Temptation’and ‘Best Before’, make imaginative use ofprecious materials such as18ct gold, silver,gems, rubber and porcelain.

4 Jessica de Lotz – creates narrative-based jewellery which reflect on the ‘sociallives’ of objects and their owners’ history.

An initiative supported by the BJA, KickStart was launched at last year’s show as a bursary scheme for fledgling jewellery designers. Acting as a commercial launch padfor the promising designers selected to take part, it provides a boost for the industryand allows retailers to discover some of the freshest design talent of 2010. Visitors toIJL this September can meet the designers and view their work on stand E49.

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www.akonglondon.com

www.saretta.co.uk

www.dayc.co.uk www.jessicadelotz.co.uk

www.momocreatura.com


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Inspired by her father, a military book sellerwith an ethos of ‘Make do and Mend,’ shebelieves that all the objects one needs areavailable already – just source them! Largelyworking in silver, she also specialises inhand carved mock ivory.

5 Momocreatura – founded by MomokoTamura, who initially studied fine arts and jewellery-making in Japan, this jewelleryexplores the boundaries between realityand fantasy through the depiction of fairy-tale inspired images. Influenced byEuropean antique jewellery of the 16th-19th century and post-war Japanese subculture, she combines her references to create figurative macabre objects in hall-marked silver and gold.

6 Hannah Bedford – these designsexplore texture and form using the tradition-al processes of granulation, reticulation andfine gold fusing. Working in gold and silver,Hannah creates a range of jewellery, frombespoke neckpieces through to delicate earrings and rings. Inspired by organicgrowth patterns in the natural world, raised,textured surfaces entwine each piece.

7 Poly Philippou – is an independent jewellery designer-maker working in EastLondon. Since setting up her business threeyears ago, she has sold increasingly by wordof mouth as well as in galleries in London andBrighton. Her contemporary silver jewelleryis versatile, easy to wear and affordable,with many ranges suiting both men andwomen. She draws inspiration from the natural world to create the simple cleanshapes that are her signature pieces.

8 Christopher Anderson Design –works with CAD and his latest designs use an interlocking two part component incontrasting metal colours. His passions arethe allure of gemstones, geometric andarchitectural forms, and the lustre of preciousmetals, as well as the contrast of colour. Heworks with silver, 18ct yellow and white goldand an array of coloured stones includingsapphires, aquamarines, peridot, emerald,ruby, topaz, garnet and diamond.

9 Sian Bostwick Jewellery – SianBostock’s handmade jewellery offers a fantasy, fairytale dreamscape style, combinedwith a timeless essence and grown up

playfulness. There are tree major collections:Titanium Butterflies, Titanium Flowers andWonderland, alongside other individual andbespoke pieces. The titanium collectionscombine silver and anodised titanium, for a range of bright blues and rich purples that,in contrast with the silk finished silver,achieve an individual and elegant look with a summery mood. The Wonderlandcollection features three-dimensional silverheart necklaces.

10 Daisy Knights – launched as a BrightYoung Gem at IJL 2009, Daisy Knights is aCotswolds-based jewellery designer whosetimeless, wearable, nature-inspired jewellery,is combined with an infusion of punk androck ‘n’ roll. Every piece is handcrafted usingsilver and gold vermeil. She also works onbespoke commissions in platinum, diamondsand gold. Passionate about ethically sourcedmaterials she uses 100 per cent recycledsilver as well as ethically mined gold anddiamonds in her fine jewellery collection.

Visit www.jewellerylondon.com/kickstart tofind out more about the initiative and theten designers who will be taking part.

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www.hannahbedford.co.uk

www.sianbostwick.co.uk

www.daisyknights.com

www.christopherandersondesign.com

www.polyphilippou.com

| BJA at IJL


It’s easy to get carried away with the glamourof it all at International Jewellery London

and to forget that as well as providing ashowcase for many different types of gems,jewellery and watches, this event also presents a wide range of jewellery servicesand ancillary products. And just as the jewellery develops year on year, so too dothe tools, software, packaging and displaywith some truly innovative products makingtheir debut at this year’s show.

Tackling the large watchThe trend for large watches shows no signof abating and existing tools are not largeenough to cope with the super-size fashionpieces that need batteries. To help retailerscope with the new generation of upscalewatches H.S. Walsh will introduce a newrange of bigger horological tools. “Peoplealways ask “What’s new?” says the company’sBarry Roberts “but in the tool world thingssimply change and adapt and these largerwatch items are a perfect example of toolsdesigned to meet the needs of the market.”

World first for GemvisionGemvision’s new Counter Sketch Studio is arevolutionary software concept which getsits UK premier at IJL. Counter Sketch allows

UK retailers to present their customers witha huge range of virtual jewellery. Using anin-store computer to view some 2,000 different styles, retailers can change anddevelop designs on screen to match customer preferences and provide estimates.

Once the customer is satisfied, the piececan then be ordered through Gemvision’sparent company Stuller and delivered complete and ready hallmarked within 14days. “There is nothing like this availableanywhere else,” enthuses, MD, Gary Baines.“The retailer doesn’t need to hold stock, ortake the risk.”

“When retailers sign up they receive sevensamples in CZ and base metal and furthersamples can be ordered at a cost of £70each,” says Baines. Customers can also viewrings on screen using a virtual hand whichcan be sized to fit their own and shows therings in scale with their finger size.

The big box storyIt’s not just watches that are getting bigger.Obviously jewellery boxes are too, in orderto accommodate the currently fashionablelarger styles. Jewellers’ Box Company offersbespoke, leather boxes in a wide variety ofshapes, sizes and colourways and the company anticipates particular interest inthe commodious watch storage box design.

Works like a charmAnother fashion which continues to reinventitself with each passing season is the charm,so a tool which reattaches these, without theneed for a gas torch, flux or solder, is aboon. The PUK 3S Professional Plus precisionwelder from Sutton Tools (AIO9) is alsoideal for retailers wishing to repair brokenchains and bracelets, resize rings and re-tipclaws. “Retailers need only basic training

to effect repairs and so this welder, whichcosts £2,995 + VAT should prove extremelypopular,” says sales director, Geoff Field.

Add a touch of colourMel Barr, MD of the packaging and displaycompany, Potters (London) Limited has alsonoticed a demand for bigger boxes and saysthat display pieces are larger too, particularlyto accommodate the current trend for long necklaces.

“There is much more colour than thereused to be. The days of black and white orfrosted acrylic displays are gone, havingbeen replaced with bright pinks, lime greensand oranges. Jewellery is now much closerto fashion and our new ranges in both packaging and display reflect that fact. Therecession has meant that presentation ismore important than ever. If consumershave a little less to spend then a great boxcan really add value,” he says.

At least 250 BJA member companies willbe at IJL. Look out for the purple unicornmembership badge for your guarantee ofquality and service.

IJL – more than justa jewellery show...International Jewellery London is a platform for fabulous jewels but, as these BJA members demonstrate, there will be plenty of other things on show guaranteed to cause a stir.

Sutton Tools PUK 3SProfessional Plus precision welder

Potters

H.S. Walsh


Leeds, Englandphone 0113 3899710web www.gemvision.comemail [email protected]

Witness a worlds first, Gemvision’s revolutionary CounterSketch Studio will celebrate its official UK launch at the IJL show. Now you can offer bespoke design in your store using just four easy steps...

1. Search styles in a virtual range.2. Customize those styles on-screen.3. Order from a premier manufacturer.4. Deliver a unique hallmarked piece in 14 days or less.

See first hand how award-winning Gemvision technology can help

you delight customers with a bespoke design experience at International Jewellery London Stand C101.

BESPOKEDESIGNMADEEASY.

Be part of the official UK launch of CounterSketch Studio at IJL Stand C101


There’s a street in London where you’dbe forgiven for thinking that every other

shop is a jeweller’s; the pavements areheaving with window shoppers and seriousspenders alike and there exists a positivelyheady vibe of consumer consumption –even mid-morning, mid-week. To use themodern vernacular – there’s a buzz aboutthe place.

No, it’s not Bond Street. It’s not SloaneStreet. It’s not even Marylebone High Streetor Knightsbridge. This is Green Street.

Where?Exactly. Until very recently this bustling,

rather unpromisingly unpolished thoroughfarein East London’s Borough of Newham, wasthe jewellery lover’s best kept secret. Here athriving community of South Asian retailersof fine and fashion jewellery have been quietly (I use this term in a marketing ratherthan literal sense) going about their businessfor the past 30 or so years, without attractingmuch attention from the jewellery industryas a whole.

And the wider general public has also beenunaware of it’s attractions. I, an unashamedjewellery junkie, lived in not-so-far-awayCamden for 20 years, completely ignorantof the existence of Green Street. Oh, the wasted opportunities!

But all this is on the cusp of changing.The two score or so jewellers – who jostle forspace among fashionable sari boutiques,beauty shops and salons, Bollywood DVDoutlets and restaurants – having hithertooperated in their separate spheres – haverecognised that there are major advantagesto uniting. So, almost three years ago, theGreen Street Jewellers Association was born.And with the Olympic games now loomingpretty large – and just a few streets away –it’s just one reason why this band of brothersis making its presence felt today.

In reality, there wasn’t a collective Road toDamascus moment the length and breadthof Green Street. The coming together was infact the brainchild of a handful of the morepro-active jewellers and coralling the rest

Main image: colourful opulence displayed in Satyan’s window.

By the time the 2012 LondonOlympics are upon us, a thriving but hitherto largelyundiscovered community ofjewellery retailers, a shot putter’s throw from the stadia,should be familiar to a greatmany. Belinda Morris pays a(long overdue) visit to EastLondon’s jewellery quarter.

East End Promise


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of them has been nothing short of a challenging labour of love forthese individuals. It’s been tough, but, they say, it’s been worth it.

Thanks to some exciting initiatives that can easily rival anythingthat the biggest global brands ever dream up (culminating in a starringpresence at the recent London Jewellery Week) the jewellers ofGreen Street are now firmly on the map.

To some it has always been on the map. “We have customerswho come to Green Street from all over the world and until recentlythey were mostly South Asians,” explains Jayant Raniga, brand manager of the family business PureJewels and spokesman for andfounding member of GSJA. “But today we are attracting a broadercustomer base. Part of my responsibility is to encourage the otherretailers (as well as consumers) to see Green Street as one of thejewellery quarters of London – a destination for fine jewellery.”

The size of the task and the weight of that responsibility is not loston Raniga, who is actually sporting three hats. Maintaining themomentum of GSJA aside, he is also one of the directors of LJW (aninitiative for which he feels huge enthusiasm) and of course has thesmall matter of the PureJewels business to consider. What began in1950 as a bespoke jewellery design company in Kenya, created byhis grandfather Bhanji Gokaldas and brought to Newham in 1975,is now, arguably, the most progressive jeweller on the street.

Jayant Raniga and his father Ramnik at the Discover Jewellery party atLondon Jewellery Week

“Part of my responsibility is to encourage the other retailers (as well as consumers) to see Green Street as one of the jewelleryquarters of London – a destination for fine jewellery.”

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Traditionally, the Asian jewellery markethas (and largely still does) revolve around22ct gold, but Raniga is finding that just asthe lines between fashion and fine jewellery(the company has a fashion jewellery shop,Bees) are becoming blurred, so too are thedivisions between Eastern and Westerndesires and sensibilities. “We have a fast-growing audience who want something different,” he explains, “but we also have arich heritage of our own – which we wantto celebrate.”

Finding nothing quite right to meet thisemerging market in either the UK orMumbai, Raniga’s next step was a boldone by any standards, but particularly foran independent jeweller. Combining thedesire to become a design-based brandand to introduce more white metal and diamonds into the store’s offer, PureJewelslaunched the Platinum Heritage Collection.

Following a call to the industry, six leadingBritish jewellery designers were commissionedto create platinum and diamond pieces thatwould reflect the cultural journey that thefamily had taken from India to England viaKenya. “It took an incredible leap of faith by

the designers – most of them hadnever heard of us or even GreenStreet,” says Raniga. The project had afocussing effect. “With regard to ourbrand direction, we made a consciousdecision to be very precise about whowe want to attract as a consumer – tomove away from the scatter gun effect.It’s been dependent on our maturity of thinking.”

The high profile nature of the designercollaboration generated the sort of attentionthat had a knock-on beneficial effect for allthe GSJA members and also dovetailednicely with the launch of Discover Jewellery,a consumer magazine produced by theAssociation. Aimed at introducing a widerpublic to this ‘new’ jewellery quarter, it’s anambitiously glossy publication and definitelynot the type one would expect to be createdby a handful of ‘off-the-map’ retailers. I couldname more than a couple of globally-fetedretail thoroughfares that have struggled withjust such an undertaking.

Further proof that the GSJA has the clout,unity and recognition that was a driving factor in its establishment, is that one of the

major events in the last (and generally verysuccessful) LJW was the Discover JewelleryShow. Against the odds, the Associationsecured the sponsorship of Jaguar, whichalso provided its Knightsbridge showroomfor the occasion. It is a coup of which Ranigaand fellow founders Vikram Santilal, ownerof Jeram Jewellers, Satyan Pala of SatyanJewellers and Vijay Lodhia of Tulja Jewellersare particularly proud. “It was a huge statement for us to be in the über end ofLondon – having come from the East End,”smiles Santilal, GSJA’s vice-chairman.

“All of [our] achievements were the resultof hard work and support from all the participating members,” adds Pala. “We havetried to think of different means to fulfill theobjectives of the GSJA and all have beensuccessful in their own ways. And with the

The first Discover Jewellery magazine, launchedin June this year

Crafted from fine hammered platinum andaccentuated with rubies and diamonds, theseearrings by Anna Loucah depict a cobra guarding a lotus flower and form part of thePlatinum Heritage Collection..

“This is the way the industryshould progress if we wantthe consumer to favour finejewellery over a pair ofJimmy Choo shoes…”

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| Feature

success we hope to be able to have agreater role and continued recognition inLondon Jewellery Week next year.”

Being viewed as integral to the Londonjewellery market is only part of the GSJA goal.“Being a second generation British Asianjeweller, it was very important to me to bepart of the British jewellery scene,” explainsSantilal. “The GSJA has given us a platformto tell our industry what we have achievedand what we have to offer. But it’s also abouthelping the industry in general,” he adds.“We found that there was no public-facingjewellery organisation that was campaigningto promote jewellery in the UK.

“As the GSJA is made up of competingretailers it has become almost a normalpractice to concentrate on strategies whichare retail-facing. It’s a broader, wider vision –a win-win thing.” As Raniga puts it, “This isthe way the industry should progress if wewant the consumer to favour fine jewelleryover a pair of Jimmy Choo shoes for example.”

The GSJA seems such a united, cohesiveand well-established body (Raniga evendescribes other (competitive) jewellers as‘colleagues’) that it’s tempting to imaginethat the setting up and running of it was andis a walk in the park. Not so. Despite thesupport of Newham Council (which theGSJA has an ‘excellent partnership’ with)and the enthusiasm (to a greater or lesserextent) of its members, there is still much toachieve in Raniga’s view. “It’s early days tomeasure its success,” he says, clearly notready to rest on his laurels. He would nowlike to see the efforts of the retailersmatched by progress on public domainareas – like street lighting – by the localauthorities, who should now be able to justify making the necessary changes.

“I want to create a Green Street buzz sobigger luxury brands, like Folli Follie andSwarovski for instance, want to be here. Weneed a good mix. We should have a CostaCoffee!” It’s getting there. Three years’ agothe Indian jewellery brand Joyalukkas whichhas 80 stores around the world, arrived onthe street. It’s the nearest jeweller toPureJewels, aesthetically and geographically,but very much of the caliber that Ranigawants for Green Street.

In the meantime his fellow retailers aremore than content to reflect on the fact thatGreen Street could well be accepted as oneof London’s jewellery quarters. “Three years’ago I wouldn’t have believed it if someonehad said this would happen,” says Santilal.“But as ever more immigrant communitiesbecome integrated in our society we willstart seeing different styles and brandsemerging. It’s really exciting and I’m highlyoptimistic about the future.” �

The Green Street Jewellers Associationmembers: Ambika, Bipin, Classic Jewellers,Daata, Danabhai Arjan & Sons, Dipesh,Gold Box, Henna, Jeram, Joyalukkas, Kyles,Pakeeza, PureJewels, Raj, Satyan, Sharads,Tulja, Unis, Zever

The History of Green Street• Established in Tudor times it has since seen wave after wave of migration over

the centuries• The original native population of Celtic Britons was ousted by Angles, Anglo-Saxons

and various Norse people• Green Street was heavily bombed in WWll and by the time of its regeneration in

the 50s and 60s it was largely made up of Jewish settlers – most of them tailors.• The 1970s saw the arrival of the Asian communities, followed by Africans,

Afro-Caribbeans, Irish, Turkish and Eastern Europeans.• Jewellery and sari shops have replaced the tailors• The regeneration of Green Street is entering a new phase in preparation for

the Olympics

“I want to create a GreenStreet buzz so bigger luxurybrands, like Folli Follie andSwarovski for instance,want to be here. We need a good mix.”

Movement through articulation andintricate details are among the elements that Jeram’s clients love. This rose gold and diamonds set are from the private client collection.


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| BJA Update


Jewellers to strut theirstuff at Autumn FairA dedicated jewellery catwalk will be one of the exciting newfeatures at this year’s Autumn Fair International. We look atwhat a small selection of BJA members will have on offer atthe National Exhibition Centre from 5th – 8th September.

This year’s Autumn Fair will be 25% larger than it was in 2009 and will play host to nofewer than 247 jewellery and accessory businesses.

One of the new attractions will be the ‘Accessories at Autumn Catwalk Café’ in Hall 4 createdby Rah Productions, which launched the Pandora Catwalk Café to stunning effect at The Jewellery Show during Spring Fair International 2010. The decision to introduce a catwalk was taken by show organiser Emap Connect following an exceptional Autumn Fairlast year, which attracted over 10,500 buyers of fashion accessories and highlighted thegrowth potential in this booming market segment.

Siren CallSiren Silver (Hall 4 K38) will be showingsmall, silver, cluster necklaces, little heartdrop earrings and a new ethnic silver rangeas well as single tear drop pearl necklacesand chunky bracelets in amethyst, onyx orlemon quartz with baroque pearls. RRPsfrom £3.95 - £99.00. www.sirensilver.co.uk

Perfect harmonyThis hand-crafted pendant from the ‘Live inHarmony’ collection in sterling silver andbrass from Peace of Mind (Hall 4 Stand H20)is highly tactile and provides the perfectstatement accessory. RRP £25.00.www.pom925.com

Stacks of styleThe ‘Stack Ring Co’, a division of SilverWillow (Hall 4 L30/M31), offers a range ofinterchangeable rings in rhodium plated 9.25silver. Choose from faceted gems, enamelflowers, stars, love hearts and textured bands.RRPs from £27 per ring. www.silver-willow.com

Flirty feathersMartick Jewellery (Hall 4 K30) continues to deliver on-trend, commercial jewellery.The ‘Feather’ collection combines sterlingsilver with Murano glass blossom beadsand fresh water pearls RRP £35.00.www.martickjewellery.com

Very vintageBalagan’s (Hall 4 Stand G10/H11) Vintagecollection is feminine, romantic and glamorous with pieces that evoke a numberof different eras. All items come packagedin a 1950’s style ‘Powder Puff’ box. RPP for pendant £54. www.ballagan.co.uk

Raising the barRodney Holman has been at the cuttingedge of fashion jewellery for over 35 years.This stunning, high-quality bar bracelet ispart of a new collection of haematite platedfashion jewellery to be launched at the show.(Hall 4, Stand G02). RRP £27.50.www.rodneyholman.co.uk

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| Ethical Jeweller


Over the last decade we have becomefamiliar with the theory, if not the

detail, of the work undertaken by bodiessuch as the Forest Stewardship Council(FSC), whose label provides a credible link between responsible production andconsumption of forest products, and enablesconsumers and businesses to make purchasing decisions that benefit peopleand the environment. Established in 1993as a response to concerns over global deforestation, FSC is widely regarded as one of the most important initiatives of thelast decade, promoting responsible forestmanagement worldwide. Other examplesabound but FSC is probably one of themore visible providers of internationallyrecognised standard-setting, self trademarkassurance and those interested should visit www.fsc.org. Its work is evidence of aworldwide shift in the ethical responsibilitiesof supply chain partners. Now it may be theturn of the jewellery industry to re-evaluateits supply chain responsibilities.

Starting with the wake-up call of ‘BloodDiamond’ in the late 90s, the last 10 yearshave seen a flood of initiatives targeting thejewellery sector with calls to embrace socialand environmental responsibility for its

supply chain. Initiatives like the ResponsibleJewellery Council (RJC), Fairtrade Gold, Alliance for Responsible Mining (ARM), NoDirty Gold, CAFOD’s Unearth JusticeCampaign and others have left the averagejeweller feeling increasingly confused about their response to the complicatedworld of ethical and responsible jewellery.The mass of data, the complexities of the

argument, the press speculation and conjecture and pressure from NGOs, haveleft many with severe information overload.Particularly SMEs!

The idea of a scheme that ensures products are clean and carry a recognisablelogo showing that they are from reputablesources would be highly attractive to many.However, anyone familiar with the complexityof the supply chain that brings even thesimplest of jewellery products to our shops knows the enormity of that task. Butit is a concept that is being mulled over bythe Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC).The question being asked is, ‘what is thefeasibility of developing a standard andprocess for independent, third party certification of chain of custody systems inthe jewellery supply chain?’

But what is a chain of custody system?Technically it comprises a set of technologies,procedures and documents that provideinformation about each step of the supplychain. Certification offers independent attestation that the system meets a standard.And that standard usually sets out minimumrequirements for the design and operationof a chain of custody system, for the purposes of certification.

Taken intoCustody

Michael Hoare discusses the complex issue of Chainof Custody systems and whether such an initiativeshould and could work for the jewellery industry.

Technologies which support chain of custody systems usually enable physicalproduct and/or custody to be tracked, andinclude radio frequency identification (RFID),inscription, material fingerprinting, digitalimaging of stones, and documentation systems. However the individual technologies,while important, are merely enablers andnot the system itself.

The RJC is well positioned, having estab-lished agreed standards and an assurancesystem covering responsible business practices across the entire jewellery supplychain. Launched in 2009, the system certifiesmembers’ business practices, but it doesnot certify products or their movementthrough the supply chain. If developed, RJCchain of custody certification could providea common, mutually recognised, industrywide platform that could be accessed tosupport claims about sourcing. The RJC’srole would be to develop a standard for chain of custody systems and systemsfor assurance, via independent third partyverification by accredited auditors. Ideallythe standard would meet internationalrequirements, but still remain flexible.

The challenges are immense. Even settingaside technical constraints, cost, scalability,and political and legal concerns, the size ofthe task may still be too great. The scale ofpossible unseen, unintended consequencesis not inconsiderable, and offering productswith chain of custody claims carries with it anegative implication for generic products.However chain of custody systems are not without precedent, and such diversecommodities as GMO soybeans, paperpulp, renewable electricity, and fish, arealready monitored from source to end user.

Whichever model is chosen, the outcomemust be robust, not anti-competitive, costeffective, auditable, and above all else, clearand transparent. A tall order indeed!

The jewellery supply chain can be thoughtof as a series of handling and processingstages that begin with raw materials andend with final jewellery products sold to the consumer. It is also complex and fragmented. Raw materials may come frommultiple sources in many different countries;they may be sold several times, mixed, andconverted into new products before beingsold to the end consumer. The gold marketis much larger and more geographicallydiversified than diamonds. The role of goldas a de facto currency means that the supplychain is usually more complicated than

diamonds, and at the micro level supplychains for different jewellery products canvary considerably in scale. A key point is thatthe products of multiple supply chains, suchas precious metals and gemstones, combine,transform and converge into a single product – a jewellery item for consumer sale.This creates a quite different chain of custodyprospect than that of a single provenanceproduct such as fish, paper or coffee.

There are a wide range of chain of custodysystems in operation across various industriesand product types. Generally, however, theycan be categorised into four main models:track and trace, bulk commodity, mass balance, and book and claim (see table). All four are designed to drive improved production practices, though each modelhas different management approaches. Key issues are transparency and clarity – the objective being avoidance of confusionor deception.

The jury is still out, and no decision hasbeen made about when, whether, or evenif, RJC will go ahead with this massiveundertaking, but early indications are that itwould find favour in some quarters. Notleast because, if a methodology can beagreed, a chain of custody system couldadd immeasurably to clarity within the supply chain, giving retailers the concreteassurances about sources of supply thatthey seek, and in turn allowing them to sellto customers with authority.

Ethical Jeweller |

Chain of Custody Models• Track and trace: traces product from source (producer, region or country), physically

segregating and tracking it through supply chains. Example: Marine Stewardship Council(MSC) fish.

• Bulk commodity: physically segregates certified from non certified product to preventmixing, but does not trace back to product origin. Example: GMO and non GMO soybean.

• Mass balance: each company keeps track of the amount of certified product it buysand sells. So while there is no physical segregation, there is administrative segregation.Example: Forest Stewardship Council (FSC) credit system for mixed sources of paper.

• Book and claim: The trade in physical products is completely decoupled from thetrade in certificates. Usually a central ‘Issuing Body’ is responsible for issuing andredeeming traded certificates. Example: renewable electricity.Source: Responsible Jewellery Council


A key point is that the products of multiple supply chains, suchas precious metals and gemstones, combine, transform andconverge into a single product – a jewellery item for consumersale. This creates a quite different chain of custody prospect...

Packaging,Tools &

EquipmentHall 11

DiamondHalls 9 &11

DiamondHalls 5 & 7

Gemstones & PearlsHalls 3, 6, 8 & 10

Fine GemPavilion

Hall 9

Jewellery

AccessoriesHall 5D

Silver JewelleryHalls 5B, 5C & Mezz 4

Hong Kong Pavilion Halls 1A, 1B & 1CHong Kong Premier

PavilionHalls 1D & 1E

International PremierPavilion

Halls 3B & 3C

Hong Kong PavilionHalls 3C, 3D & 3E

European, American & China Pavilions,

Antique & Estate JewelleryHalls 3F & 3G

Fine Design

PavilionGrand Hall

Expo Drive Entrance Harbour Road EntranceEntrance

Grand

Foyer

Asian Fine JewelleryHalls 5F & 5G

Pearl Jewellery & Finished Jewellery

Hall 5E

Jadeite Gallery Hall 1A Concourse

Designer Avenue Mezz 2

| Insurance Matters


The traditional security anti-bandit glass,to the old standard BS5544, is made up

of a 1.5mm layer of a plastic substancecalled polyvinyl butyrate (pvb) and for manyyears this, in various forms, was the bestthat could be provided. It comes in variousthicknesses: 7.5mm, 9.5mm and 11.5mmas standard, plus various multiple laminatesbuilding thicker and thicker glasses until onereaches the lowest bullet resistant standard

at 36mm. However, bullet resistant standardsin this material are far too heavy for mostdisplay windows and frames.

It's important to be aware that 7.5mmsecurity glass is far stronger than 10.8mm or8.8mm which are common laminated safety

glass thicknesses, having a standard ofBS6206 and having only half the thicknessof plastic inter layer. They are designed tostop persons being injured by shards ofglass, not to prevent attack.

Safety glass should not be installed withinjewellers’ display windows.

An improvement in security can beobtained with polycarbonate glass laminate(Poly C) as shown in the table below.

As a rule the minimum quality of glasswhich should be installed within your displaywindows is to European Standard EN356:P4Awith a minimum thickness of 11.5mm.However it is highly recommended thatglass to the P6B standard is installed.

Using polycarbonate glass will provide substantially improved protection for thethickness of glass used.

Remember polycarbonate glass is only as good as its framing. It needs properinstallation in the correct type of high qualityframes to be at its most effective.

Window Back SecurityMost of a jeweller’s value is in the displaywindows. You should have good smash andgrab protection… but what are the windowbacks like?

In many armed robberies window backsare forced or the window backs themselvesare smashed. In many cases jewellers havelight weight locks that don’t resist any force;light weight frames to window backs andjust plate glass.

Even if you can get 7.5mm anti-banditglass into your window backs, with somedecent locks, such as Abloy or Bramah, in agood frame, that will slow the criminals. Thisis particularly true where your risk is spreadover a number of such windows, each ofwhich has to be forced individually.

For traditional type locks it is preferablefor one key to be able to operate all locks,

which should be carried by members of staffon their person. It is also recommendedthat these are slam shut for easier locking.Hidden electronic locks with a key fob toopen are useful. If you have sliding doors,make sure that they cannot be lifted or jemmied out of their rails and if they areunframed sliding glass, that the locking system does not simply allow one sheet ofglass to be forced past the other.

You can have the best window back locksavailable, but they will only work if used!

Therefore ensure they are always keptlocked except when staff are directly movingstock in or out of the window back area.

T.H. March & Co Limited is a family-ownedfirm of insurance brokers founded in 1887with offices in London and nationwide. Thecompany covers household, motor, life andprotection, travel, commercial and schemeinsurance. Visit www.thmarch.co.uk

Old British European Thickness Interlayer Interlayer No. of blowsStandard Standard EN 356 mm Thickness mm with a fire axe

resisted*

‘Safety Glass’ 6.4 / 8.8 / 10.8 PvB, PvB, PvB 0.76, 0.76, 0.76 0, 0, ?

BS5606

‘Security Glass’ P4A 7.5 / 9.5 / 11.5 PvB, PvB, PvB 1.5, 1.5, 1.5 1, 2, 3?

BS5544

P6B 18 / 23 / 14 PvB PolyC 30-50

P7B 28 / 16 PvB PolyC 51-70

P8B 36 / 18 PvB PolyC Over 70

* Before a hand-sized hole is created

Smash and GrabMany jewellers have quite high values in their windows. Strengthof security glazing is mainly provided by the type and thicknessof the inter layer.

You can have the best window back locks available,but they will only work if used!

| Insurance Matters


Opening and closing your premises may be one of those things that you

could do with your eyes closed, but it’s avital part of your day and, should youbecome complacent, it could be a worsecase scenario for your business.

The principle of opening with two peopleis instilled into all of us; one standing asideto observe the opening, the other enteringthe premises preferably without safe keys,unsetting the alarm, checking the premises,and giving a signal to the other that all isclear. The door should be kept locked during this time, except for the admission ofknown staff until the window is dressed.The first keyholder should observe the othermembers of staff approaching the premisesto ensure they are not followed. Althoughthis routine is well known, there have beencases where it has not been followed and

this has produced disastrous consequences. Ten years ago we would have said that

opening and closing hold ups were the majorsource of loss – that is no longer true, butwhen they do happen, they tend to producevery major losses. There are arguably four main scenarios whereopening and closing goes wrong:• Opening or closing by yourself with a

full set of keys and alarm codes. It stillhappens and shouldn’t!

• The second person standing too closeto the first person entering so that bothare caught up in the same criminalattack. The second person should be

standing well clear, preferably acrossthe road, but where he can still observeand use a mobile phone or mobile PA.

• Admitting staff who are followed intothe premises, either accidentally orunder duress. This is a difficult one.Staff need to be alert to anyone nearthe premises who might follow orcoerce them, and be trained to turnaway or walk past the shop if there isany perceived risk. Alternatively, theyshould liaise by phone with staffalready in the shop and wait for thesuspects to move. Having alerted staffalready within the premises, it may bepractical for them to control the dooragainst being rushed.

• Jewellers dressing or undressing thedisplay windows still admit customers,postmen, police, etc. You must not.Even if you know the person, they maybe under duress or may be followed inunexpectedly. The time between stockbeing in the safe and in the window isthe most vulnerable, because it is soconcentrated and easily stolen, and any loss in these circumstances is likely to be high.

Another useful, though not always practical,deterrent is an airlock entry system – it notonly decreases the opening and closing risk,but also significantly reduces the hold upand snatch risk. At its simplest, an airlock entrysystem is an entrance lobby for customersand staff, with an outer door and an innerdoor where both doors are controlled byelectric release locks, and only one door canbe opened at any one time.

Obviously installing an airlock with a plateglass door and/or plasterboard partitionsmay deter an unprofessional thief and someof the kids who try snatches, but it will haveno effect on a planned serious robbery.

Although there are many different ways ofinstalling an airlock, clearly structures of thistype cannot be installed in most shops without major upheaval. They are something

you need to plan for on the next majorupgrade of your shop front, or if you havesuffered a serious robbery and cannot takethe risk of insurers’ reaction to another.

Damage limitation –an open and shut caseInsurance broking isn’t solely about premiums and excess payments – it’s also about taking care of your business. The issue of shop security is taken very seriously indeed…

The time between stock being in the safe and in the windowis the most vulnerable, because it is so concentrated…


| Regular


BooksBreitling Highlights, by Henning Mutzlitz(£12.95, Heel through ACC Publishing Group)

Part of a series of titles on luxury watchbrands by this author and published by Heelin Germany, this book should be requiredreading for any stockist of Breitling watches.But more than just a useful reference work that outlines a hundred of the mostremarkable models– with incrediblyclear and detailedimages – it alsotells the history ofthe legendary Swisscompany. Founded

in 1884 by the 24 year-old Leon Breitling,the brand established itself as a pioneer inmany areas of time-keeping developmentand in particular as the watch of choice forpilots in the first world war with the creationof the first independent chronograph technology. Read it… and learn.

Patek Philippe Highlights, by Henning Mutzlitz(£12.95, Heel though ACC Publishing Group)Synonymous with exclusivity, luxury andgrand complications, this venerableGeneva-based company actually had itsbeginnings in Poland with one AntoniNorbert Patek de Prawdzic, a young officer

who took part in an uprising against Russianoccupancy – which eventually led him toGeneva. First employed as a reassemblerfor watchmakers, he eventually started hisown company and later joined forces with aParisian watchmaker Jean-Adrien Philippeand in 1851 Patek & Co became PatekPhilippe. Thereafter came a succession of‘firsts’, including what was most likely thefirst wristwatch in the history of Swiss watchmaking. Read it… and yearn.

The Jewellery of Paul E Flato, by ElizabethIrvine Bray (£45, ACC Publishing Group)At the height of his career American jewellerydesigner to the Hollywood stars was morefamous than even Tiffany and HarryWinston. This gorgeously illustrated book byGIA graduate Elizabeth Irvine Bray featuresexamples of his work and studio images of the socialites, heiresses and starlets whowore them. A fascinating insight into theman and a must for lovers of costume jewellery at its best.

Jewellery & Watch Trade Fairs

September3rd-6th: Eclat de Mode by Bijorhca, Portede Versailles, Paris, FranceFashion, fine jewellery, watches and fashionjewellery. www.bijorhca.com

5th-8th: International Jewellery London,Earl’s Court 2, LondonThe UK’s premier dedicated jewellery tradefair, with close to 500 exhibitors, designersections, seminars etc. For full details seethe IJL Preview feature on p.40.www.jewellerylondon.com/nag

11th-15th: VincenzaOro Choice, Fiera deVicenza, ItalyAround 1,600 exhibitors showing their latest jewellery collections for the differenttrade sectors. www.choiceevent.it

12th-14th: Top Drawer, Olympia, LondonFashion, jewellery and strictly-vetted, design-led gifts for Christmas and beyond.www.topdrawer.co.uk.

12th-14th: London Gift Fair, OlympiaA new event aimed at retailers looking for

last-minute Christmas stock ideas – slightlyless design-orientated than Top Drawer.www.londongiftfair.com

12th-14th: Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair,Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centrehttp://exhibitions.jewellerynetasia.com/exhibitions/default.asp?siteid=5

October8th-11th: Jewelers International showcase,Miami Beach Convention Center, Miami, USAThe largest independent jewellery tradeshow in the Americas, showcasing leadingglobal manufacturers and wholesalers.www.jisshow.com

12th-14th: Dubai International JewelleryWeek, various locations, DubaiThe region’s premier exhibition for jewelleryand precious timepieces.www.jewelleryshow.com

Sales & ExhibitionsSeptemberNow-18th March 2011: Alexander theGreat. Hermitage AmsterdamThese gold, hessonite and glass Greek earrings (right), circa 2BC, are among the

treasures to be seen at this exhibition thatgives a picture of the man who ‘conqueredthe world’ by the age of 30. (image from theState Hermitage Museum, St Petersburg)www.hermitage.nl

28th: Important Jewels [N08667]Sotheby’s, New York

23rd-29th: Origin, Old Spitalfields Market,LondonPart of London Design Festival, this juriedevent will present the best of craft talent,including jewellery. www.craftscouncil.org.uk

NotebookWhere to go, what to read, what to see…

Continues on Page 90


Curteis essentials

Come and visit at our BRAND NEW STAND at IJL. To view our extensive jewellery range, please visit us at stand H110 International Jewellery London or telephone Curteis

| www.curteis.com

FREE POSTAGE on all orders over £250

The romance between the British KingEdward VIII and the American divorcee

Wallis Simpson still ranks as one of the mostcontroversial episodes in 20th Century Britishhistory, and is certainly the biggest scandalto have befallen the modern royal family.The facts of the story (or, at least, the contemporary version of the story) are wellknown, but in brief: shortly after coming tothe British throne in January 1936, the former Prince of Wales proposed marriageto Wallis Simpson, a married woman withwhom he had then been involved for a couple of years.

Simpson was, as far as the upper classsocial conventions of the day allowed, justabout the most unsuitable paramour for asenior British royal as could be imagined. AnAmerican socialite, divorced from her firsthusband (but crucially still married to hersecond at the time she began her affair withEdward), Wallis was, fairly or unfairly, almostuniversally disliked by a British populace –and popular press – that demanded youth,sexual innocence and social naivety in itsprospective Queens (you know, the kind ofstuff they thought they’d found in doe-eyedDiana Spencer in 1981 – but that’s mostdefinitely a whole other story). Though many

of the more outlandish rumours that circulated around Simpson were laterrevealed to be untrue, she was nonethelessdisapproved of sufficiently by the establish-ment to have made her becoming Queenseem, in 1936, unthinkable.

AbdicationThe British Prime Minister of the time,Stanley Baldwin, told Edward that the marriage would never be accepted and thathe faced a choice: give up Simpson; marryher without ministerial consent (therebyforcing the resignation of the governmentand triggering a major constitutional crisis)or abdicate and do whatever he pleased.Edward chose the last option, and on 10thDecember 1936 signed over the throne to his brother, Prince Albert. Edward hadheld the throne for a total of just 325 days, one of the shortest tenures in thecountry’s history, and was never actually formally crowned.

The funny thing is, Edward VIII was anotorious womaniser prior to his meetingSimpson. He had already scandalised hisfamily by enjoying several dalliances withmarried women, and spent his early yearsgenerally having a fine old time of it as afootloose bachelor. This perception ofEdward as a fun-loving, self-indulgent brat, aperpetual adolescent, seems at odds withthe image of a tortured King sacrificing sucha seat of power and influence. Indeed,some observers have suggested thatEdward may never have really been thatinterested in the responsibility of the throne;others still have implied that such a monu-mental fit of pique could only have beenexercised by just such a spoilt royal, entirelyunused to not getting his own way.

For her part, Simpson was thought tohave been aghast at her amour’s insistenceon abdicating. Having always openly con-fessed to an “insatiable ambition”, Simpsonbegged the King not to abdicate, believingthat she would come to be accepted by theBritish establishment in time and seeminglyactually fancying herself as Queen. Rathertellingly, both she and her husbandremained furious throughout their livesabout her having been denied the ‘HRH’Royal title after the abdication.

Simpson’s jewelsWhatever the truth of Edward and WallisSimpson’s relationship and individual per-sonalities – and the rather grubby tales oftheir being Nazi-sympathisers, for which wereally don’t have room here – there is onething that is known about Simpson, and thatis that she simply loved jewellery.

| Antique Jewellery


AntiqueJ E W E L L E R YRomance, scandal and the ‘Royal’ jewelsThe love affair between Edward VIII and American divorcee WallisSimpson caused one of the greatest scandals of the early 20thCentury, resulting in only the second ever abdication from the Britishthrone. Only slightly less thrilling than that tale, says Jo Young, is the story of Simpson’s incredible jewellery collection… twentypieces of which go under the hammer at Sotheby’s this November.

I n a s s o c i a t i o n w i t h F e l l o w s & S o n s

Ruby, Sapphire, Emerald, Citrine and DiamondClip, mounted by Cartier, Paris, 1940, designedas a flamingo in characteristic pose, created byJeanne Toussaint for Cartier (Est. £1,000,000-1,500,000 – Sotheby’s Windsor sale)


Antique Jewellery |

Even before they were married – back inthe early days of their affair in the mid-1930s– Edward VIII showered jewels upon hismistress with the kind of generosity one mightonly expect from a man enjoying an opulentlife on a lavish retainer.

Van Cleef & ArpelsThe Duchess’s jewellery collection numberedover 200 pieces, which came from some ofthe greatest jewellery houses of Europe, butof those, she (or perhaps the Duke?) did havefavourites. Several pieces in the collectioncame from Van Cleef & Arpels, including arather nice ‘Holly Leaf’ clip, made from rubies

and diamonds, which the company madeusing a new invisible setting technique (it hasbeen said that the technique was createdwith this clip).

One of the first of the notable pieces ofjewellery the smitten Duke gave Simpson wasdesigned by the company’s senior designerPaulette and comprises two adjoining leaves,one set with rubies, the other with diamonds,with a central ‘vein’ on each that is made upof a single row of thin baguette diamonds.The real excitement about this piece thoughis the invisible setting: all the stones areheld in by small ‘grooves’ in the back, andno gold is visible from the front of the piece.

A simple but highly valuable ruby and diamond bracelet, also by Van Cleef, alsoformed part of her collection by the jewelleryhouse. Containing 40 Burmese rubies, thebracelet was said to have been a gift fromthe Duke to Wallis upon her agreeing todivorce her second husband and marry him.There was a matching necklace, again inrubies and diamonds which, in 1939, wasreset into a collar, with what was then ahighly fashionable removable tassel added.

Another significant Van Cleef piece, a sapphire and diamond bracelet known asthe contract bracelet, was also bought by theDuke as a gift for his fiancee. This time thegift, which he gave to her in May 1937, wasbought to mark the fixing of their weddingplans and date. The bracelet is in the shapeof a wrist band, with a series of cushion-cutsapphires shaped into a ‘bow’ at its centre.

CartierNaturally, given her love of top designerjewellery names, the Duchess owned a lotof pieces by Cartier, almost all of which weregifts from her husband. One of the mostsignificant of these was a ring that was givento Wallis Simpson upon her ‘engagement’to the Duke. The ring, by Cartier, features a19.77 carat Columbian emerald, and oncebelonged to the Mughals. The ring was resetin 1958 in a leaf design, with each leaf added

The Duchess of Windsor, photograph by Cecil Beaton © The Cecil Beaton Studio Archive at Sotheby's

Wallis Simpson had something of a penchantfor bejewelled animal brooches and other pieces– such as this panther pin, set with preciousstones and pearl.

He faced a choice: give up Simpson; marry her without ministerial consent (thereby forcing the resignation of thegovernment and triggering a major constitutional crisis) or abdicate and do whatever he pleased.

�

| Antique Jewellery


containing a brilliant-cut white diamond.Cartier also made the ruby and diamondbangle that Wallis received as a first weddinganniversary gift; the bangle contained twolarge cushion-shaped Burmese rubies, surrounded by diamonds and featuring across-over clasp.

Cartier made a series of animal broochesfor the collection, all set with preciousstones. Among these were a black enameland diamond cat, and two tigers, one madefrom gold and white diamond and the otherrendered in sapphires.

One of the most genuinely romantic piecesof jewellery in the collection was also produced by Cartier; this was a braceletcomprised of nine crosses, all made fromplatinum and diamonds and each one givento mark a specific occasion in the couple’slife together, from their first meeting to a ‘getwell’ cross when she underwent surgery.

Harry WinstonWallis Simpson began collecting jewelleryfrom the famous American jewellery houseearly on in her marriage, and some of themost notable pieces from her collection weresold to the couple by the firm. In 1948, they were sold a pair of pear-shaped, fancyyellow diamonds weighing a staggering40.81 carats and 52.13 carats, which weredesigned into lapel pins, and later matchedwith a pair of Harry Winston brilliant-cut yellow diamond earrings.

The story of how Wallis Simpson endedup owning a piece of jewellery that had previously belonged to the Maharaja ofBaroda – a well-known collector of importantgemstone jewellery – also involves theHarry Winston company. The Maharaja hadsold an anklet (a commonly worn piece ofjewellery in the Indian sub-continent then as now) to the US jewellery firm, which thensold on the piece, converted into a necklace,to the Windsors in 1953. Curiously (and

presumably somewhat sniffily?) Simpsonrefused to wear the necklace again after shediscovered it had previously adorned theankle of the Maharani.

Also in the 1950s, the couple became theowners of the 31.26 carat McLean Diamond,

a blue-whitecolourless cushion-cut brilliant diamond thathad been bought by HarryWinston from the estate of theheiress and socialite Evalyn WalshMcLean (as part of the same lot as theHope Diamond). Believed to be a Golcondastone, the McLean diamond eventually

fetched $3.15m at the Geneva sale, but priorto this was worn often by the Duchess. Here,clearly, was not a woman who endorsed arule of modesty in her accessorising…

A love of pearlsThe Duchess apparently held a particularlystrong affection for pearl jewellery – as wellone might when one stands to inherit the kindof pieces that she did. One of the loveliestpieces of jewellery the Duchess owned

was a single row of 28 pearls, held with adiamond clasp, that itself features 9.190grain, diamond-topped pearl. She inheritedthe necklace from her mother-in-law QueenMary via the Duke. Queen Mary wasn’t, bythe way, Wallis’s biggest fan, despite the rathernice hand-me-down: along with the rest ofthe Royal Family, Mary had declined to attend

Emerald, Ruby and Diamond Brooch, byCartier, Paris, 1957, of heart-shaped design. To commemorate the Duke and Duchess ofWindsor’s twentieth wedding anniversary. Fromthe Sotheby’s sale: Est. £100,000-150,000

Diamond Bracelet, by Cartier, c. 1935, designed as a single row of spectacle-set brilliant-cut dia-monds, supporting nine gem-set Latin crosses, each engraved with inscriptions. From the Sotheby’ssale. Est. £350,000-450,000

Onyx and Diamond Panther Bracelet, by Cartier,Paris, 1952, the attenuated and articulated bodydesigned to encircle the wrist and to assume astalking attitude. (Est. £1,000,000-1,500,000 –Sotheby’s Windsor sale)

Wallis Simpson’s jewellery represented the very best designwork by the major jewellery names of the age, rendered inthe very highest quality materials and gemstones.

the couple’s wedding, which was held – she thought as a deliberateslight – on the anniversary of her late husband’s birthday in 1937.In any case, the necklace itself was one of the prizes of Simpson’scollection, which she wore to her husband’s funeral in 1972.

This magnificent strand of natural pearls was eventually bought bythe fashion designer Calvin Klein for his wife Kellie at Sotheby’sGeneva sale; the necklace was sold on, again at Sotheby’s, twentyyears later in 2007. According to Sotheby’s, this strand of pearls –the drop pendant of which measures 18.4mm – “has no equal”.

What makes the Duchess of Windsor’s jewellery collection particularly notable in the context of Royal jewels is, quite simply, thefact that she owned them. According to the protocol of monarchy,the vast majority of Royal jewellery is only worn by the reigning familyand remains, in actual fact, State owned. It was this fact of ownershipthat helped bring about one of the most memorable and talked-about jewellery sales of recent decades when, following WallisSimpson’s death in 1986, the whole of her spectacular collection wasfirst put up for sale in Geneva.

The Geneva salePerhaps curiously, the Duke had apparently held strong views aboutwhat should happen to the Duchess’s vast collection after her death.He felt that no other woman should be able to wear the pieces thatshe had worn, and his plan for the jewels involved having every precious stone removed from its setting and stored away after herdeath. Rather luckily for the collection the Duke died before Wallisand her own plan for her 214-piece jewellery collection – that itshould be sold off and the proceeds donated to AIDS research –was put into place when she too eventually died.

This single row of 28 natural pearls held with a diamond clasp and featuringa 9.190 diamond-topped pearl, was inherited by the Duchess from hermother-in-law Queen Mary, via the Duke.

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Antique Jewellery |



Antique Jewellery |

The sale, held in April 1987, was one ofthe most important of its day. The Duchessof Windsor Collection, as it was pitched,attracted over 1,000 bidders, who crowdedinto the tents erected next to Lake Genevaespecially for the sale, with a further 600buyers lined up in the New York Sotheby’sshowroom. All the important pieces wereup for grabs, and the whole collection fetched$53.5m. (The highest price for a single itemwas nearly $3.15m, paid for a diamond ringdesigned by a Japanese jeweller). Overall,the amount raised for Wallis’s jewellery wasthe highest price ever reached, worldwide,for a single-owner jewellery collection.

There were a couple of reasons why thesale attracted the degree of attention that itdid. The first reason for the sale’s importanceis the sheer breadth and quality of the collection, which was fairly spectacular.Wallis Simpson’s jewellery represented thevery best design work by the major jewellerynames of the age, rendered in the veryhighest quality materials and gemstones. It was a beautifully complete showcase, if you like, of antique pieces and 20th Centuryjewellery fashions.

A second, and perhaps no less significantreason for the curiosity and keen excitementelicited by the collection, however, was thestory of the couple who’d accumulated it,which has found particular currency over the

years among American buyers. Unlike in theUK, where the Wallis Simpson story is oneof scandal and bad behaviour, the Windsors’relationship is often billed in the US as the’greatest love story ever told’ (no, really). To many American jewellery collectors, theWindsor romance is a true fairytale –indeed, a very significant proportion of thebuyers at the Geneva sale were based in theUS, among them Calvin Klein and ElizabethTaylor, the latter of whom was a friend ofthe couple. Certainly one can see why theirrelationship might fascinate people in acountry where royalty maintains a steadyappeal. It is, after all, the tale of the Kingwho gave up immense wealth and power –his crown – for “the woman he loved”. �

The inexorable advance of Live Bidding!This morning there was such a paucity of interesting news that they had to discuss Broadbandspeeds on Radio 4’s Today Programme – but maybe it isn’t that irrelevant to our daily lives?Pages (and indeed magazines) are dedicated to the internet – it enables us to communicatequickly with clients, and it helps us provide a myriad of information that we cannot print in acatalogue (without significantly improving my printer’s choice of holiday destinations). The internetalso provides us with a real time live bidding facility which is increasingly being used by bothtrade and private buyers alike – time is a valuable asset and people don’t necessarily need totravel to the auction room to buy an item. Worryingly, the internet buyers get a live camera feedof the auctioneer’s face while he's ‘doing his bit’ – for which I can only apologise in advance!Like all technologies, ‘success’ isn’t always guaranteed – during a recent auction a systems failure‘up the line’ from us caused the live bidding facility to fail just before the ‘star lot’ of the day –the sense of glee from some of the buyers in the auction room was almost palpable. And indeed technology isn’t without its financial costs.However, it is a facility which seems to be here to stay and, judging by its popularity, will havean increasing effect on the auction world. I just wonder what will be the next ‘technologicaladvance’ that they invent to test us with… and to send us cap in hand to our bank manager?Stephen Whittaker is the Managing Partner of Fellows & Sons, specialist auctioneers ofJewellery, Silver, Watches and Fine Art based in Birmingham’s Jewellery Quarter. He can becontacted on 0121 212 2131 or [email protected]

Fellows & Sons (Est. 1876) Forthcoming Auctions

• Secondhand Jewellery & Watches –Thursday 9th and 23rd September, Thursday 7th and 21st October

• Antique & Modern Jewellery – Thursday 2nd September, Thursday 14th October• Silver, Plated Ware, Coins & Medals – Monday 6th September• Costume & Silver Jewellery & Novelties – Monday 6th September• Wrist & Pocket Watches – Monday 18th OctoberA catalogue is available at www.fellows.co.uk or by post. Online bidding is available at www.invaluable.com/fellows

For further information please call Heather Bailey on 0121 212 2131.

Whittaker’s World

This gold brooch is one of the many pieces in the collection to be produced by Cartier.

The NAG will launch its training coursesonline with a champagne reception at

this year’s IJL show. An online version of theProfessional Jewellers’ Diploma (JET 1 andJET 2) promises to not only make educationand training more accessible, but to alsoenhance the learner’s experience.

“The success of our online students’ groupclearly shows an adjustment in the way thatstudents want to learn,” says Victoria Wingate,NAG Education and Training manager.

“By placing both JET 1 and JET 2 online, students get the best of all worlds. They will

still receive the same high standard of information and expertise through our coursenotes, but they will be able to access thisinformation far more quickly and easily and the way in which they study will be farmore interactive.”

Students will still enrol for the courses inthe same way, but rather than wait to be senthard copies of course notes, they will begiven an access key to login to the course.

There they will be able to download thecourse notes as a whole or by chapter andwork through specifically designed activities

and scenarios to help them retain the information. Students will have their ownarea where they will be able to write theirassignments, send them to tutors andaccess their feedback all in one place. Theywill also be able to access further learningresources such as recommended reading,helpful websites and even book tutorials.

“It is very exciting” adds Wingate. “We havereally been able to explore how we presentthe training and add another dimension tothe learning, which can only help studentsbecome better sales people in the long run.”

Students will be able to access the coursefrom anywhere once they have enrolled, aslong as they have internet access and a webbrowser. “It means students no longer have tohave their course notes with them to study.They can study any time anywhere. It couldreally change the way some students worktheir way through the course” says Wingate.

Some things will not change, however, asshe explains. “Our tutors are really what make

the JET courses so special. Their combinedexperience is incredible, so we certainly didnot want to do anything to jeopardise thataspect of the training.


L A T E S T N E W S F R O M T H E E D U C A T I O N D E P A R T M E N T

NAG to launch online training at International Jewellery London

Students will be able toaccess this information farmore quickly and easily andthe way in which they studywill be far more interactive.”

“Students will still be assigned individualtutors, who will monitor and guide themthrough the course, although the way inwhich they contact their tutor may changeas the new system will make it even easier.”

Also, JET 2 students will continue to takeexaminations in person. “Obviously it is vitalthat we maintain the high academic stan-dards for which we are known,” Wingateclarifies, “and the best way to do that isthrough a sit-down examination. There willbe the facility for revision and mock exam

papers online, however, so it will certainlyhelp candidates prepare for their exams.”

Visitors to the NAG stand will be able toaccess the online courses for themselves.“We are definitely planning a much morehigh-tech stand than recent years,” addsWingate, “because the best way to tell people about our online training is to showthem. They will see for themselves just whattraining online will cover.”

The online courses will be availablethroughout IJL with the official champagne

launch taking place on the NAG stand (i90)on Monday 6th September 2010 at 1pm.The launch will form part of a packed programme of education events for theNAG at IJL, including the unveiling of thenew Professional Jewellers’ BusinessDevelopment Diploma (JET Pro) and thefinal celebrations for the 65th anniversary ofNAG education and training.

To learn more telephone: 020 7613 4445(option 1), email: [email protected] visit the NAG stand i90.


Education + Training |

First Bransom JET 1Project Award winnerannouncedThe NAG and Bransom have announced that Aaron McCrone of

Laing’s Jewellers, Glasgow, is the first ever recipient of the BransomJET 1 Project Award. McCrone will receive a certificate and be invited to the NAG’s prestigious Presentation of Awards at Goldsmiths’ Hall, not normally open to JET 1 students.

“I’m very happy and proud, not only to win, but to be the first to winthis award,” says McCrone on learning of the honour. “A colleague wonthe Greenough Trophy this year, and it just goes to show how committedLaing’s of Glasgow (and in particular, our manager Elaine) is to trainingand education”.

All JET 1 final assignments are automatically entered for the prize andthe winner is chosen by tutor Eddie Stanley, who marks the final projects.

“This script was by far the best example of using the diamond product knowledge in a retail jewellery selling environment,” explainsStanley. “The sales situations demonstrated wisdom in using the technical knowledge about diamonds to gain a positive conclusion to asale. The assignment showed imaginative thinking regarding the repairand restoration of the diamond ring brought in for repair”.

Chris Garland of Bransom who launched the new award at theAssociation’s AGM in June says: “we wanted to get involved because webelieve in education and supporting the next generation of jewelleryprofessionals. By encouraging the best performers we hope it will raisethe overall level of achievement and final grades.”

Students who successfully complete all five assignments of JET 1 toa satisfactory standard will be awarded a JET 1 certificate and are thenentitled to continue on to JET 2 and the completion of the ProfessionalJewellers’ Diploma.

For more information on the JET courses, visit the NAG’s website at:www.jewellers-online.org or call 020 7613 4445 (option 1). To learnabout Bransom visit: www.bransom.co.uk

THECHRISTMASHOLIDAYSARE TOOLATE....

OUR CONTACT DETAILSThe National Association of Goldsmiths 78a Luke Street, London EC2A 4XGEmail: [email protected] Tel: 020 7613 4445 (Option 1)Download a JET Course prospectus at www.jewellers-online.org

A student who enrols on the first part of the Professional Jewellers’ Diploma now could have finished by this Christmas and could have passed JET 2 and mastered all the practical skills that a retail jeweller requires by next Christmas.

....TO STARTTRAINING

YOUR STAFFSTART NOW

TO SQUEEZEEVERY DROPOUT OF THE

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Education + Training |

Essential Selling (London)28 September 2010Nigel Amphlett will provide this specialisedseminar aimed at improving your sellingstyle, helping you to beat targets, convertsales and gain repeat/referral business andimprove your confidence with customerqueries or concerns.Course Fees: Members £208 + VAT Non-members £269 + VAT

Essential Window Display (London)14 October 2010Aimed at those new to display and providinginstruction in the theory and practice of display. Learn to promote buying occasionsby creating appropriate displays of stock.Given by jewellery marketeer Judy Head the seminar includes practical window display sessions. Course Fees: Members £208 + VAT Non-members £269 + VAT

Eric Emms’ Diamonds & Diamond Grading (London)19-20 October 2010An intensive two-day ‘hands on’ seminar todevelop knowledge of practical diamondgrading and gem diamond quality. Delegateswill examine loose polished diamonds ofvarious colours and clarity qualities andlearn to identify natural diamonds, diamondsimulants, treated diamonds and gem-quality synthetic diamonds.Course Fees: Members £375 + VAT Non-members £512 + VAT

Contact Amanda White on: 020 7613 4445or email: [email protected]

Forthcoming NAG Seminars

In the January issue of The Jeweller, the NAG’schief executive, Michael Hoare, discussed

the industry’s need to continue updatingtraining processes. He commented on thenecessity for education in the jewelleryindustry to reflect “the advancement ininternet sales, visual merchandising andever-changing population profiles.” With this in mind, the NAG sought to find an effective, industry-appropriate and flexibleway in which to “harness the expertise of experienced people” and find a coursestructure that better fits “the needs of students and the industry”.

Eight months later, and the NAG is set toadd another string to its bow, with the introduction of its new management-focused course, Jet Pro.

The course has been developed by MikeMcGraw, founder director of DevelopmentInitiatives Limited, in conjunction with theNAG. When asked to summarise Jet Pro,McGraw describes it as “a modular mid tohigh level distance learning course whichcovers all the main levers a retail jewellerneeds to pull to have a sustainable andprofitable business.” The course offers a flexible six-module program, which “can betaken as a full suite with a diploma at theend, or taken as discrete modules to plugan individual’s skills gap”, states McGraw. These modules will include:

Market Awareness and ManagingFinancial Variables; Customer Management;Maximising a Team’s Potential; ProfessionalOperations Management and the art ofBusiness Promotion.

The flexibility of the modules, explainsMcGraw, allows the course to complementthe JET 1 & JET 2 programmes, but meansindividuals can still study Jet Pro, without

having previously studied JET 1 or JET 2. As he points out, “It can be seen as the next step up from JET 1 and 2 but there is no stipulation for either of these to be completed first.”

McGraw believes this industry-recognisedqualification will allow individuals to become“better skilled in business management andmore likely to take on greater managementroles”, while companies will benefit fromstaff “who can take on more responsibilityand contribute better to the business.”

Keen to outline the benefits of the newcourse, Victoria Wingate, education managerat the NAG, explains how “many jewellerswere looking at ways to further develop senior staff – particularly those who had beenwith a company for a number of years andhad completed many of the trade coursesavailable”. She goes on to say that, “JET Proisn’t just for those in management positions– it’s suitable for anyone who wants agreater understanding of the retail jewellerybusiness.” She feels that the introduction ofJet Pro gives those people “a great flexibleprogramme that will further develop themin specific areas according to the needs of thebusiness in the current retail environments.”

Michael Hoare answered the questionsraised back in January by stating, “This is an important development that plugs a perceived gap in our provision”. Today hepraises the fact that now, “we have a coursefor young people in the industry who show management potential but need helpdefining the scope of their future role andresponsibilities. This program is for thefuture leaders of our sector and once againNAG is leading the way”.

Visitors to the NAG stand at IJL will beable see JET Pro for themselves. It will beavailable to view throughout the show, withthe official champagne launch taking placeon the NAG stand (i90) on Tuesday 7thSeptember 2010 at 1pm.

Call 020 7613 4445 (option 1) or email:[email protected]

JET Pro targets managersMiles Hoare discusses the NAG’s new management-focusededucation package and what this means for future managers in the jewellery industry…

“This program is for thefuture leaders of our sectorand once again NAG is leading the way”.

| Letters


Ihave become increasingly concerned aboutthe way in which the public view our trade.

This shift in attitude is dramatically shown inone particular forum thread: http://forum.shoppingtelly.com/forum/showthread.php?t=21814 – but is by no meansa unique story.

The thread starts out asking for opinions ona specific valuation company but quickly startsto explore jewellery valuation in general.The overall conclusion theme is that: • insurance companies aim to fleece you.• retail jewellers do not know very much.• valuation conclusions have more to do

with setting the level of the valuer’s feeand serving the jeweller’s or valuer’sprejudices or bias.

• retail jewellers will act on ‘sour grapes’with Shopping Channel purchases oritems purchased from a competitor(foreign or local).

• there is no need to get anything valued because your insurance companywill cover it anyway.

I hear variations of these themes from private clients. In asking why they came tome specifically, some of the above beliefspop up on a regular basis. By coincidence, Iheard number two in the list only today.

Welcome to the views of Mr and MrsGeneral Public, my friends. This is NOT GOODfor the jewellery trade. There is no smokewithout fire and I would encourage all tolook at some of these firmly held beliefsthat the public have and see if there is anything in their business that could havecontributed to it.

In days gone by, customers would probablyform their opinions through direct experienceand if bad, would probably, at most, moanto their spouse or a friend about it. Now it isa different story – an aggrieved customerhas easy access to forums where their grievances can be aired in the heat of themoment to millions and a seemingly limitlessnumber of very willing ‘sufferers’ are on-handto rush in with supportive similar stories.

Sometimes, even the slightest ‘mishap’ atfront-shop level grows into a big misconcep-tion of the trade in the public mind.

For instance, the other day a member ofthe public checked my website and decidedto have a valuation carried out by me via oneof my retailer customers in her home city.She took a single item from a collection that she had recently inherited. She askedthe jeweller if she could have it valued, the assistant replied “For insurance?” Myclient said, “No, just for my own interest”.The retailer then replied, “We don’t value for ‘own interest’”. She was confused anddisappointed, so ended up driving a 100-mile round trip to come and see me.

With a little bit of empathy and asking a fewpertinent questions, the jeweller’s assistantwould soon have realised that this younglady had never had any jewellery valuationscarried out before and was unfamiliar withthe terminology and the process.

With a bit of gentle probing they wouldhave found out that in fact she did need aValuation for Insurance Replacement. Theyalso would then have realised that this singleitem was an important diamond pendantwith a 2.33ct central diamond and about12.50ct of diamonds surrounding, and thisis the first piece of an entire collection ofsimilar items yet to come from Switzerlandas part of her inheritance.

More importantly, they would have prevented the client leaving their business thinking that all jewellers are condescending, haughty and really don’tknow very much.

Yours in depression,Adrian S Smith FGAIndependent Jewellery Valuer, Scotland

If any readers have experienced similar situations with customers or have views on the issues outlined in this letter, wewould very much like to hear from you.Please email the editor, Belinda Morris:[email protected]

Got something you need to get off your chest? Rather than let it fester, airyour views here, as oneunhappy valuer has done…

Letters tothe Editor

27th-10th October: Goldsmiths’ Fair,Goldsmiths’ Hall, London EC2Internationally acclaimed show offeringthe public the chance to view the bestmodern jewellery and silverware fromBritain’s leading makers.www.thegoldsmiths.co.uk/events/

October

1st-31st December: For Honour & Glory.Treasures of Napoleon. AntwerpDiamond MuseumTwo centuries after Napoleon came toAntwerp, this exhibition shows how Le PetitCorporel used decorative arts and anarsenal of diamond jewels to display hispower and retain the loyalty of hisentourage. For more information contact:[email protected]

Sunday 3rd October: Annual Beadwork& Bead Fair, Uxbridge College, Middx.As well as handmade, vintage and collectable beads, tools and books, the fairwill include demonstrations and exhibitions.www.beadsociety.org.uk

14th-17th: Brussel`s Jewelers Fair,Indigo Studios, BrusselsA new exhibition showcasing the work ofcontemporary jewellery designers.www.brusselsjewelersfair.be

Notebook(Continued from page 78)

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A National Treasure?One group user asked for some help with a value for a Britannia silver tankard madeby Timothy Ley in 1698, in good conditionweighing 948 grams with interesting contemporary engraving, bearing in mind itsprovenance. He was able to confirm fromthe engraving that the tankard was presentedto a scientific titled gentleman in the late1600s and was accompanied by a signedform from what was the Inland Revenue,stating that ‘due to national interest’ thisitem, subject to certain conditions, wasexempt from Inheritance Tax. What effect,he asked the rest of the group, might the‘national interest’ have on the value?

The tankard has been in the hands of a wealthy Home Counties family for over100 years and the death of the grandfatherhas precipitated the request for an insurance valuation as the tankard has nowbeen bequeathed to the grandson (who iscarrying on the family business and requires,

effectively, an insurance valuation as he isnow responsible for it). The requirement for the item not to be sold or exportedshould mean that Capital Gains Tax shouldnot become payable.

The inquirer also mentioned, as a footnote,that the family had a valuation from a WestEnd of London jeweller dated 1983 for£1,500, but this was of the then commontwo-line variety and made no mention ofthe Inland Revenue letter which was currentat that time. This jeweller had ‘renewed’ thevaluation subsequently – the latest in 2004.

He was satisfied that the tankard wasgenuine and in excellent condition but his

main query was the ‘national interest’ partof it. Possibly, if it should ever reach theopen market, this might attract bids frommuseums and/or colleges. Coupled withprivate dealers and collectors this couldincrease the figure quite markedly.

One fellow group user had recently beenasked to value a similar tankard of this peri-od and with interesting provenance, for auniversity, which, following research, he hadvalued for £50,000 (ARV).

Another suggested contacting the Keeperof Metalwork at the British Museum to askhim to confirm or deny the ‘interest’ aspectwhich might assist in the obtaining of a realistic estimate from auction contacts, uponwhich a valuation might be based. A furtherresponse suggested not to be unduly influ-enced by the ‘national interest’ if, as stated,there is a requirement for the tankard not tobe sold or exported. He suggested concen-trating on the present value under the pres-ent conditions and not to speculate uponwhat it might be worth in the future on theopen market.

The group user was grateful for his fellowusers’ input and reported that after muchdiscussion with the family and having regardfor the many telephone calls he had alsoreceived, he reached an ‘agreed value’ with

NAG Institute of Registered Valuers R E V I E W

IRV Email Group Round-upA couple of the topics that have recently been doing the roundson the IRV Email Group.


IRV Review |

the family, their solicitors and their insurancebroker of £50,000. This sum will now beused to insure the item.

(The tankard’s last ‘agreed value’ in conjunction with a large auction house hadbeen £20,000 but this was some years ago.)

The Appeal of a Micro Mosaic BroochAdvice from fellow jewellers was sought byanother emailer, on the value to place upon

a micro mosaic brooch/pendant (correctlytermed a tesserae – coloured glass withwirework and a gold setting) which was partof a large valuation for insurance (with nohistory or provenance).

The user thought the brooch might date from around 1860. There were nomarks but she believed it to be 18ct gold,measuring about 60mm from the top of the bale to the bottom of the pendant andweighing 11 grams.

The front was in immaculate conditionand it came in a fitted case with the inscription ‘GALLANDT – ROME’ (see photograph). Unfortunately her searches onthe internet for further information on thecompany had been unfruitful, as hadsearches on various auction house websitesfor a point of reference. Her initial thoughtswere in the region of £600 at auction andshe asked if any of her fellow valuersthought she was way out.

One respondee noticed that from otheraccompanying photographs that thereappeared to be some soft solder on the back – so the piece was not perfect.However, he felt she was in the right area

as far as an auction price was concernedalthough he confessed he had not seenanything like this go through recently.

Another confessed that he had sold amicro mosaic clasp for £200 trade not solong ago (far too cheap, but glad to be ridof it – he had had it forever, paid next tonothing for it etc., a tale many jewellersmust be familiar with!). The purchaserbelieved they could get £300 or so sellingto the trade.

Another user had found on Fellows’ website an impressive Victorian mosaicpendant (auction date: 20th May 2010)described as follows, “A Victorian ornatemicro mosaic pendant, comprising a centralcircular micro mosaic panel depicting ahumming bird with further outer micromosaic patterning and scroll detail to thesuspender. Length of pendant: 6.8cms.Weight: 14.49 grams.” This had had an

estimate of £800 to £1,000 and had beeneventually sold for £1,500.

Another user had found on a West End ofLondon retail jeweller’s website, “A Victorianmicro mosaic pendant, the fine oval micromosaic central panel depicting two pinkdoves with spread wings against a spray ofconvolvulus on a red background, within aborder of blue and white flowers, applied

with rope and bead work decoration, thereverse bearing the name ‘ROMA’ in 10mmhigh relief letters to a scrollwork mount,opens to reveal a glazed compartment with silk backing, chain hoop decorated with scroll work, circa 1860, measuring approximately 56 x 30mm, gross weight23.2g.” which had sold for £4,950.

Group user and Loughborough lecturerGail Hislop MIRV advised the group that amicro mosaic pendant will generally havemore value than a brooch particularly asmany of the brooches were very large, thus not so in tune with today’s jewelleryfashion. This is, however, primarily a collector's market so the value will be

Another confessed that he had sold a micro mosaic clasp for£200 trade not so long ago (far too cheap, but glad to be ridof it – he had had it forever, paid next to nothing for it etc., a tale many jewellers must be familiar with!).

�

| IRV Review


dictated mainly by condition of the mosaicand the mount; subject; and most importantly, by the size of the individualtesserae and how skilfully the design has been executed – broadly the smallertesserae were used earlier and the execution and design better than later –very late ones can even be quite crude anduse much larger tesserae. She could not besure of the size of the tesserae in the user’sbrooch, but she felt it looked reasonableand the design was most attractive.

The most common designs she hascome across are ‘Pliny’s doves’ (two dovesat what looks a bit like a bird bath), also St Peter’s Square in Rome, followed by various famous Roman ruins. They tend tohave limited value. Because of the conditionof the back of the user’s brooch a seriouscollector might not want it, but because it isa pretty piece (and in 18ct gold) a figure of £500 to £700 would be about the right price in the trade. Auction prices, whenit comes to ‘collectables’, are so variedaccording to who has spotted it and who isbidding, so it would be difficult to pin a price down there. The fact that it appears tohave its original box is a plus.

The group user was grateful for the inputof other valuers. She confirmed that it had taken her a while to resolve, in as muchas she had already carried out quite anextensive search before coming to thegroup for advice.

There are considerable variables in the‘going’ and ‘selling’ price for these items,

mainly dependent on design, quality andcondition. She too had found that views arecommon, dog designs are fairly common,doves less so – and swans can be very dear.

But this design appears not to be readily available, and would probably

command a slight premium for that. It is astunning piece.

Her patience and persistence was finallyrewarded, as she eventually managed tofind a similar brooch (similar size and comparable design with a later added bar,sold together with a moonstone brooch)which sold at a Bonham’s auction (inOxford in June) for £984 (including buyer’spremium), and shortly after she foundanother for sale on an American website for £2,500 (a similar item of slightly better quality but somewhat comparable),however she was unable to vouch for the seller’s integrity and did not know theirmark-up.

She admits that trawling through countlesswebsites isn’t cost effective, but sometimesit’s a necessary means to an end. Sadly shecouldn’t furnish the group with the name ofa reliable resource for micro mosaicbrooches, as she simply searched for comparables adopting a lateral strategysearching various ways including ‘18K micromosaic brooch’ and eventually (by chance)found the American site. �

Loughborough 2010The NAG’s Institute of RegisteredValuers Loughborough Conference

Saturday 18th to Monday 20th September

We are still accepting bookings for the‘must-attend’ event for jewellers and valuers: the NAG's Institute of RegisteredValuers Loughborough Conference takingplace at our usual venue, LoughboroughUniversity, over the long weekend ofSaturday 18th to Monday 20th September.

This year’s line up of expert guest speakers include Peter Buckie, David Callaghan, Brian Dunn,Eric Emms, Doug Garrod & Claire Mitchell, the Guild of Valuers & Jewellers, Alan Hodgkinson,Tracy Jukes, Barbara Leal, Mike McGraw, Heather McPherson, Don Palmieri, Pravin Pattni,Thom Underwood & Ian Jukes, Terence Watts, Geoff Whitefield & Haywood Milton andStephen Whittaker. You won’t find this many experts in one place anywhere else!

The Conference is open to anyone in the trade, whether you’ve been in it for more yearsthan you care to remember or are just starting out. This Conference has something foreveryone.

The Conference is available on a residential or non-residential basis. We encourage you to attend the whole event but you are still welcome if you can be there only for part of it.A brochure and booking form is available from Sandra Page on 029 2081 3615 or at:[email protected]

The IRV Conference is supported by Bransom Retail Systems Ltd, Fellows & Sons Auctioneers,the Gem-A, the Guild of Valuers & Jewellers, T H March & Co Ltd and Quantum Leap.

Jewellery Production Assistant• Administrating jewellery manufacture,

special orders, customer repairs, etc.

• Liaising with suppliers, workshops andPravins’ sales staff

• Pricing and labelling of stock and data entry into our stock system

• Quality control

Diamond Sorter / Buyer• Checking, sorting and grading diamonds

and other gemstones

• Picking, measuring and matching diamonds for jewellery production

• Assisting the Director in diamond sourcing,buying and pricing

• General administrative duties including costing, stock control and liaising with suppliers/workshops and sales staff

Both jobs require:• good communication skills

• the ability to work under pressure

• computer literacy (Microsoft Office essential)

Generous rewards and the space to develop and grow are on offer for the right candidate.Pravins is a family-owned business, established40 years, specialising in high-quality diamond jewellery.

APPOINTMENTST H E J E W E L L E R

Please send your CV and a handwritten covering letter to: Personnel Department, Pravins Limited, P.O. Box 35563, London NW4 4YX or send an e-mail to: [email protected]

We regret that we are unable to respond to unsuccessful candidates. No agencies.

Head Office Appointments– Hendon, London NW4

Retail• Leading Bond Street jewellers require top class sales people

with good and active client lists; languages an advantage – excellent salaries and benefits

• Chinese and Arabic speaking sales people required in Bond Streetand Knightsbridge

• Salesperson for leading jewellers – West London

• Manager for leading jeweller in Surrey required

• High end diamond sales people and management required in the West End of London

• Gallery Manager wanted for a leading jeweller in Kent, previousexperience required in high end jewellery and/or watches

• Manager wanted for prestigious new boutique opening in Mayfair.Must have West End experience and have an existing client basewith good watch and fine jewellery experience. Must be proactiveand able to build and maintain client relationships

• Sales people and Assistant Managers/Manager Designates requiredthroughout the country, particularly Manchester, Leeds, Liverpool,Chester, Birmingham, Glasgow, Edinburgh and the South East

General• High end watch brand requires a watch brand manager based in

the South East, must have experience at a senior level and used to dealing with key account clients and managing a small team.Dynamic and enthusiastic, French speaking an advantage

• Customer Service Coordinators, Sales Administrators and AfterSales Service Managers are currently being sought in London.

• Luxury watch brand seeking a Marketing Manager capable ofhandling, Marketing, Media planning and buying, PR and events.French speaking an advantage but not essential

• Essex Company needs an experienced setter; Yorkshire companyneeds a very experienced mounter

• As always, qualified watchmakers, ideally Rolex-trained, requiredthroughout the country

All enquiries treated in total confidence. For more information on national opportunities visit our website.

Contact Katie or Grant on tel: 01756 753 555or e-mail: [email protected]

A selection of our current vacancies…

JACKSON MAINEThe Recruitment Specialists to the Jewellery & Watch Industries

www.jewelleryjobs.com

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year since being established in 2002. • Stock consists of a high quality handmade

range supplemented with selected suppliers.• Would suit manufacturing jeweller,

husband/wife team.• Well positioned, lucrative business. • Owners looking to semi-retire.• Further information on enquiry.

Contact Mary: [email protected]

bqwrolex specialist

bqwatches.com

Call now for a FREE Quotation

020 8953 4575

We now specialise in the repair andrefurbishment of Gold Rolex Watch Bracelets

Is your Rolex watchbraclet stretchedand worn?

At BQ Watches wecan make it look

brand NEW

Repair Services

Shopfitting

DISPLAY CABINETT H E J E W E L L E R C L A S S I F I E D

Titanium Jewellery

Pearl Restringing

Repairs

ShopfittingShopfitting

A-Line Jewellery• Handmade jewellery• All setting including channel, pavé etc.• Repairs of all kinds• Polishing, rhodium and black rhodium• 18 carat and platinum ring mounts• CAD and laser work undertaken• Diamonds and coloured stones supplied• Over 30 years experience• Postal service

Ground Floor, 22 Hatton Garden,London EC1N 8BATel: 020 7405 7684

Email: [email protected]

Jewellery Repairs Pearls & Gemstones

DISPLAYCABINET

T H E J E W E L L E R

� C l e a r , u n c l u t t e r e d d e s i g n� O n e u n i f o r m s i z e� O n e g r e a t v a l u e p r i c e� V o l u m e d i s c o u n t s a v a i l a b l e� F r e e a d d e s i g n s e r v i c e

Only £85 per insertion!Call Neil Oakford on 020 7833 500 or

email: [email protected] for furtherinformation and to make a booking in

the Jeweller display Cabinet

Platinum

AGARS (est. 1946)

• The complete restringing service to the trade for over 60 years.

• Experience, quality and service at reasonable prices.

• Full insurance. All urgent repairsby return.

Call David or Stephen at Agars LtdPort Hall Mews, Dyke Road, Brighton BN1 5PBTel/fax: 01273 540330Email: [email protected] Member of the British

Jewellers’ Association

Precious Stones, Beads and Pearls

| Regular


How would you describe your personal style?I love clothes by John Richmond and OzwaldBoateng but lately my favourite designer is anew label called Blak Wren – I guess all ofthem have slightly quirky designs, somethinga bit different to the norm. My favourite itemof clothing though has to be a VivienneWestwood coat given to me by my goodfriend Mick Jones of The Clash who said“Stephen, I think it will look better on youthan me…” I wear it every winter.

Where is your favourite holiday destination? Why?Last year I took a road trip along Route 66in my 1959 Thunderbird with my friend Jeff.I was planning it for a few years as it’s verydifficult for me to take so much time off butwhen it finally happened it was an amazingand exhilarating experience that will staywith me forever.

What three words describe you best… in your view and according to others.Rockstar without portfolio

Looking back at your career, what onething would you do differently if youhad your time over?Perhaps my limited education; I left schoolat 15 which was pretty normal then but Inow see the huge benefit a few more yearsat school would have done me. Equally, mykind of stubborn, single-minded focus onbeing a craftsman is a bit of double-edgedsword. There are times when my attentionto detail can be a bit time-consuming!

If you could change one thing about thejewellery industry, what would it be?We have to do a lot of soul searching overthe next few years. The ‘excess’ years areover for sure and even as we enter a morestable period the obvious displays of wealthlook to be a thing of the past. The futurelooks bright and thankfully the more cre-ative, beautifully crafted and provocative thepiece, the brighter it looks all round.

Do you know the price of a pint of milk?No… I probably wouldn’t eat if it wasn’t formy wife.

To what do you attribute your success?When I studied at Medway I had one thingin mind – to make jewellery to the best ofmy ability. I guess I have always strived to bethe best I could be. I’m a perfectionist. I aminvolved in every aspect of the business:from design, to point of sale, shooting thead campaigns, our events and the stores.

Tell us something not many peopleknow about you…I’ve run six marathons with a personal bestof 2 hours 47mins.

Favourite shopping destination (shop, street, city or country)It has to be Mayfair's Mount Street, London.We now count ourselves among the sensa-tional line up that comprises the street.

If you hadn’t gone into the jewellery trade,what career would you have chosen?I just did an episode of Project Runway inthe US. If Harvey Weinstein offers me anyother TV work I will jump at it!

Quick fire (no deliberating, straight offthe top of your head please)• Red or white wine? Red• Football or cricket? (team?)

Football – I have a season ticket at QPR.• Diamonds or coloured stones?

Coloured stones – our crystal hazetechnique using the most vibrant ofcoloured stones put us on the map.

• White or yellow metal? White.• TV or radio? Radio 4 in the office.• Bentley or Roller? Rolls Royce.• Delegator or control freak?

Control freak.• Fish and chips or Chinese/Indian?

Fish and chips• Beatles or Rolling Stones?

The Stones

Last WordThe

A key speaker at the forthcoming IJL show, jewellery designerStephen Webster reveals all in our probing questionnaire.

Personal ProfileStephen Webster is the founder and creative director of the internationally-heraldedeponymous jewellery brand. His dramatic creations with glam-rock attitude havewon him a stellar client-base (the likes of Madonna, Sharon Stone, Elton John andJohnny Depp) as well as numerous prestigious awards (some of them many timesover). From his jewellery manufacturing and design studios in London’s West end,the company has expanded globally with 200 points of sale as well as StephenWebster boutiques in such cities as Moscow, Osaka and… Marbella. In 2008 hewas appointed creative director of Garrard, Crown Jewellers. Last year he opened a flagship store in London's Mount Street and received the Honour of Liveryman of the City of London.

THE DIAMOND RETAIL BENCHMARK

INCREASED CONFIDENCE TO CONSUMERSMORE DIAMOND SALES FOR YOU

RETAIL BENCHMARK PRICES FOR POLISHED DIAMONDS

WWW.IDEXONLINE.COMPOWERED BY IDEX ONLINE

THE DIAMOND SRP LIST

Rou

nd 1

/5 (0.

18-0

.22)

IFVVS1 VVS2

VS1VS2

SI1SI2

SI3I1

I2I3

D 7035 58325080 4478

41783252

2765 24392114

16261138

E 5982 5381 4629 41783877 3090 2602 2439

1951 1464 976

F 5681 52304328 3877

35782927

2439 22771789 1301 976

G 5230 46294027 3578

3090 2602 22772114

1626 1301 813

H 4629 41783740 3252

2765 24392114

19511464 1138

813

I 38773415 3252 2927

2439 22771951 1789 1464 1138

813

J 2927 2765 2602 22772114

19511789 1626

1301 1138650

K 2602 24392277

19511789 1626

1464 1464 1301 976650

L 21141951

1951 1789 1789 16261464 1138

976813

488

M 1789 1789 1626 1464 1464 1301 1138 976813

650488

N 1626 1464 1301 11381138 976

813813

650 488488

Rou

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1/2

(0.4

5-0.

49)

IFVVS1 VVS2

VS1VS2

SI1SI2

SI3I1

I2I3

D 9813 85277549 6886 5826 4711

4334 39323128 2491 1843

E 8527 77166886 6533

5651 45233932 3731

2923 22751627

F 8205 7549 67106179

5275 43343731 3530

2923 22751627

G 7549 67106003 5463 4711

41333530 3329

2707 20591402

H 6886 61795463 4899 4334 3932

3329 31282491 2059

1402

I 6003 52754899 4334

3932 35303128 2923

22751843 1402

J 4899 45234334 3731

3329 31282923 2707 2059 1843 1168

K 4523 41333932 3329

3128 2707 2491 22751843 1627

1168

L 3932 37313530 3128

2923 2491 2275 20591627 1402 935

M 3329 31282923 2707 2491 2275

2059 1843 1402 116893

N 2707 2491 22752275

2059 20591843 1627

1168 9359

Rou

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/3 (0.

29-0

.37)

IFVVS1 VVS2

VS1VS2

SI1SI2

SI3I1

I2I3

D 9035 7583 6638 5882 5496 42783668 3262 2856 2197 1538

E 77727016

6071 5496 5090 40743465 3262 2637 1977

1318

F 7394 68275700 5090 4684 3871 3262 3059

24171758

1318

G 6827 6071 5293 4684 4074 3465 3059 28562197 1758

1099

H 6071 5496 4887 42783668 3262 2856 2637

19771538

1099

I 5090 4481 42783871 3262 3059

2637 24171977

15381099

J 3871 3668 3465 30592856 2637

24172197 1758 1538

879

K 3465 3262 3059 26372417

2197 19771977

1758 1318879

L 2856 26372637 2417

24172197 1977

15381318

1099 659

M 24172417

2197 19771977

17581538 1318

1099 879659

N 2197 19771758 1538

1538 13181099 1099 879

659659

IFVVS1 VVS2

VS1VS2

SI1SI2

SI3I1

I2

D 15154 1215310727 9653

8961 78327112

60755311 3725

E 1177010727

9787 92388404 7546 6815

57715158 3556

F 10727 9921 9238 8684 79757112

6371 56185005 338

G 9787 8961 8404 78327260 6519

5925 5465 4851 3

H 8961 8261 7689 71126667 6075

56185158

4539

I 7689 7260 6963 65196075

56185005 4698 4380

J 6075 59255771

53115158 5005 4698 4221

406

K 5465 53115158 4698 4539 4221

3893 372533

L 4698 45394380 4221

4062 3893 3556 3388 2

M 4380 42214062 3893 3725 3556

3388 3211

N 4062 3893 3725 35563388 3211

3211 3032

Rou

nd 3

/4 (0.

70-0

.89)

IFVVS1 VVS2

VS1VS2

SI1

D 9035 7583 6638 5882 5496 4278

E 77727016

6071 5496 5090 4074

F 7394 68275700 5090 4684 387

G 6827 6071 5293 4684 4074 34

H 6071 5496 4887 42783668 3

I 5090 4481 42783871 3262

J 3871 3668 3465 30592856

K 3465 3262 3059 2637241

L 2856 26372637 2417

24

M 24172417

2197 1977

N 2197 19771758 1538

IF

D 13406

E 1046

F 95

G 8

HI

J

IFVVS1 VVS2

VS1

D 9366 8149 7192 65

E 8149 73556541 6

F 7843 7192 6374

G 7192 63745681

H 6541 5854516

I 5681 4989 46

J 4619 4248 4

K 4248 3878

L 3693 3507

M3116

291

N 2519 23

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E M B E R

1st 2 0 0 9

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Documents

The Jeweller Magazine August/September 2010 Issue