Jeweller June 2012

With input from theBritish Jewellers’ Association

JewellerJune 2012 £7.50 The Voice of The Industry

theJewellerthe

Watches and Security special issue The increasing strength of classic and luxury timepieces

All the latest innovations in security and updates on SaferGemsJewellery Week 2012 highlights and the latest news from the NAG

T.H. March were established in 1887 and are the foremost brokers for the jewellery trade – we have been helping clients insure their valued possessions for 125 years.

Would you like to comment?Call us on 0207 405 0009 or visit www.thmarch.co.uk

Celebrating 125 yearsin business in 2012

Whatever your needs we have the expertise to find the policy that gives you the confidence and peace of mind that you are properly protected. Ask us, we are here to help.

125YofE/05/12

The Voice of the Industry 3

Contents & Contacts |

How Time Flies 26

A focussed offer that includes a good selection

of ladies’ models, is the key to healthy watch sales,

reports Belinda Morris

Jeweller Picks – watches 38

Highlighting a selection of fashion brands

and on-trend styling

Jewellery Week 2012 42

A preview of four key events of the Week,

including The Jewellery Show London

Crime – working together to squash it 50

Updates on SaferGems and fogging device successes,

the NAG’s new Security Conference, industry advice

to jewellers, plus news and views

C O N T E N T S J U N E 1 2

The National Association

of Goldsmiths

78a Luke Street,

London EC2A 4XG

Tel: 020 7613 4445

www.jewellers-online.org

Editor: Belinda Morris

Tel: 01692 538007

[email protected]

BJA Marketing & PR Manager:

Lindsey Straughton

[email protected]

Tel: 0121 237 1110

Sales Director: Ian FrancisTel: 020 7613 4445Fax: 020 7729 [email protected]

Publishing Enquiries/Classified Advertising: Neil [email protected]

Art Director: Ben [email protected]

Contributors:Miles Hoare, Nicholas Major,Amy Oliver, Stacy Simpson,Jo Young

The Jeweller is published by the National Association ofGoldsmiths for circulation to members. For more informationabout The Jeweller visit: www.thejewellermagazine.com

The magazine is printed on paper and board that has metacceptable environmental accreditation standards.

Although every effort is made to ensure that the information supplied is accurate, the NAG disclaims and/or does not accept liability for any loss, damage or claim whatsoever that may result from the information given. Information and ideas are forguidance only and members should always consult their own professional advisers.The NAG accepts no responsibility for any advertiser, advertisement or insert in TheJeweller. Anyone having dealings with any advertiser must rely on their own enquiries.

Communiqué 4

Editor’s Letter 7

Industry News 8

NAG News 14

Member of the Month 16

Education & Training 19

IRV Review 20

BJA News 23

Brand Profile 37

Opinion: Nicholas Major 48

Antique Jewellery 58

Notebook 62

Display Cabinet 64

The Last Word 66

JewellerThe Voice of The Industry www.thejewellermagazine.com

the

Cover ImageIn conjunction with Maurice Lacroix

Henrik Fisker wearing his Maurice LacroixMasterpiece Roue Carrée Seconde

To become a stockist email:[email protected]

www.mauricelacroix.com

All shook upAs I write these notes I am in Vicenza, Italy,with John Henn, attending the CIBJOCongress that is running alongside the FieraDi Vicenza. To say that the last few dayshave been eventful would be an under-statement; both in terms of the knowledgeacquired, the events attended, and the decisions made. Not only do I now knowmore about tourmaline than is really goodfor me, after an intensive workshop wherefive eminent speakers analysed its colourspectrum, its distribution throughout theworld, its chemical composition, and itsdetailed nomenclature, I have also witnessedanother natural, but less attractive phenomenon. Ironically, the first nearlysoothed me to sleep, while the latter mostdefinitely woke me up – with a start! At 4amon Sunday 20th May to be precise. Thatwas when an earthquake measuring 5.1 onthe Richter scale struck about 22 kilometresnorth of Bologna, killing at least two people,and destroying many homes and historicbuildings. Being too far from the epicentreto suffer any damage my hotel just took ashaking, but I now appreciate a quite different meaning to the question ‘Did theearth move for you?’

Full reports of the CIBJO proceedings andthe Andrea Palladio International JewelleryAwards that took place at the Fiera willappear in next month's issue of The Jewellerand will be online before you read thesenotes. Meanwhile I move on to Paris andthe Annual General Meeting of theResponsible Jewellery Council, where themain concern will be finding a successor for Matt Runcie, who is about to commencehis last term as chairman.

It’s good to TalkSince you are reading these words you mustalready be aware of The Jeweller magazine,which is published by the NAG nearly everymonth, supplemented by n:gauge, our onlinenewsletter covering legal and technicalissues. Chances are you probably also get the

odd e-bulletin promoting NAG events, plusyou will all be familiar with the NAG websitewhich, once you get past the member login,is a treasure trove of information. Others will

have had cause to look at the NAG Instituteof Registered Valuers or SaferGems websitesfrom time to time.

Back in 2010 we thought it would also bea good idea to set up Facebook groups formembers and students to share the goodnews about the Association and its trainingactivities. The student group was an instantsuccess, but frankly the members’ one languished in the doldrums; perhaps tellingus something about the penetration ofFacebook within different age profiles!Anyway, in the intervening years we haveheard more and more about social media;with all its proponents singing the praises ofthis wonder medium as a ‘free’ marketingresource. We remained sceptical – aboutthe free bit anyway – and I have frequentlybored anyone who was willing to listen with

my argument that while the mechanismsare free, it’s the content that costs. Becauseunless you are a gifted writer – and few are– you need somebody to help you create

M I C H A E L H O A R E ’ S

CommuniquéFollowing his rude awakening while at the CIBJO Conference in Vicenza, Italy, CEO Michael Hoare outlines the social media inroads and new developments that the NAG has made over the past few months…

| Comment

4 The Jeweller June 2012

We set to at the end of last year to get our ducks in a row.As a result we now have a redesigned and revitalised student Facebook group [and] a new NAG Facebook page…

interesting, stimulating and rewarding content. Unless, that is, yourobjective is to bore readers into submission!

However, as a trade association our task is to build communities ofinterest behind the various issues we tackle – be that representation,education, security, or valuations – and so we had to add socialmedia to our portfolio to complement all the ‘traditional’ media I mentioned before. So, after some deep thinking, and having investigated all the possible options, we set to at the end of last yearto get our ducks in a row. As a result we now have a redesigned and revitalised student Facebook group; a new NAG Facebook page– having scrapped the old group; an NAG LinkedIn group, which isopen to all comers who stick to the rules; an NAG blog space at http://nag-blog.org; and an NAG You Tube ‘TV Channel’. The

Executive DevelopmentForum (EDF) has its ownLinkedIn group, moderatedby Mike McGraw, and anNAG – IRV LinkedIn group,moderated by Sandra Page,which is shortly to appear

Most of the above – withthe exception of EDF andIRV – are interlinked andcascade headlines intoTwitter. We’ve also takenthe trouble to populate (asnobody wants to be first

at any party) areas such as the blog with on-going stories and comment that we hope will stimulate debate. But why have wegone to all this bother? Partly because we believe there has to be something more than just making money – although that’simportant – to stimulate interaction between existing members; togenerate interest in upcoming issues and events before they happen;to attract a wider age and interest profile; and lastly, to engage people in the important debates that affect our industry, but areclouded by all the ballyhoo that surrounds aspirational merchandise.

Have we succeeded? Only time will tell! Social media is a must for a trade association, but it’s not free! Will it replace magazines likethis one? I doubt it; as I believe the relationship with the reader isentirely different. One is an instant gratification ‘snack’, the othertakes time to consume, like a light meal, and could be regarded asmore sustaining. However, like food, it’s not a choice of ‘either/or’;variety and getting the right nutrition at the right time is key to a balanced diet. I hope you’ll choose something appetising from ourmenu, and will join in the debate.

Along the way, we’ve learned some lessons, met some prettyknowledgeable people, and we’ve got a few ‘top tips’ which wewould be willing to share if you think social media is the way to gofor your business.


Comment |

As a trade associationour task is to buildcommunities of interestbehind the variousissues we tackle – be that representation,education, security, or valuation


Comment |

It’s June. It’s Summer.

If this was a glossy fashion magazine that you had in your hands we’d be debating the com-

parable merits of Jackie O versus aviator sunglasses. or we’d be advising on suitable SPFs for

your fortnight in the sun. As it’s The Jeweller, if it’s June we must be talking about ‘security’.

In fact we talk security, in one form or another, in every issue of the year – it’s a subject that

wont go away and so can’t be ignored. As ever though, this month we devote extra pages

to the topic – covering the obvious concerns, such as violent robbery, and the less obvious

ones, such as deviant behaviour in the workforce.

And despite the seemingly endless media coverage of attacks on jewellers, it’s not all

depressing news – the industry is fighting back. Year on year the NAG’s SaferGems initiative

is proving itself to be a very effective weapon in in the fight against crime. Our Spotlight on

Security on p50 reports on some recent and very welcome successes.

Another regular June feature is our focus on the watch market. Besides the fact that time-

pieces continue to be healthy sellers – particularly those with a strong heritage or gravitas

behind them – there’s also a growing demand for, and supply of, more choice in ladies’

models. And what’s wanted is more than just a pretty face.

So, finally… gorgeousness in spades is pretty much guaranteed during Jewellery Week which

is just days away now. If you haven’t planned it already, book yourself out of the shop for a

couple of days and get yourself down to the Capital for the various events. Before you go,

turn to p42 for a preview of some of the week’s highlights. If you snooze you lose…

Page 50

Page 26

Editor’sLetter

This month:

“…research shows thatworkplace crimes associated with employee dishonesty will increase during the current economicdownturn

“In a storm do you buildtrenches or windmills? I think the UK retailersknow they will benefitfrom building windmills.”

If you would like to comment on any of the issues raised in this edition of The Jewelleror any other trade-related matters please email the editor at: [email protected]

| Industry News


Gross platinum demand grew by two percent in 2011 to 8.1 million ounces, with

growth in every sector excluding investment.In its ‘Platinum 2012’ report issued lastmonth, Johnson Matthey Precious MetalMarketing announced that supplies increasedto a four year high of 6.28 million ounces,while recycling increased to 2.05 millionounces. As a result the platinum marketswung into oversupply of 430,000 ounces.

Led by China and Japan, gross platinumjewellery demand last year rose by two percent, but growth also came from India,where the demand increased rapidly from alow base. In the second half of 2011, whenplatinum prices dropped and gold began totrade at a premium to platinum, there was asurge of buying by Chinese manufacturers,raising gross platinum demand. Downwardmovement in the platinum price helped

improve margins for manufacturers andpartly offset rising labour costs and tightcredit, making it more attractive to produceplatinum jewellery.

Supported by the bridal sector, platinumpurchasing by the trade in Europe remainedsolid at 175,000 ounces. While consumerconfidence remained low in many parts ofEurope and spending on jewellery itemsgenerally decreased, purchases of platinumin the bridal sector remained resilient andlower prices in the fourth quarter encouragedsome consumers to ‘trade up’ from whitegold to platinum for wedding and engagementrings. European luxury brands continued todo very well in the high end of the market,boosting demand for platinum used in themanufacture of jewellery and watches.

By contrast, the demand for palladiumjewellery fell in 2011 due to higher prices.

Purchasing of palladium by the global jewellery industry declined by 15 per cent and,says Johnson Matthey, palladium continuedto suffer from a lack of positioning in the keyChinese market. Manufacturers in Europemoved to lower piece weight and lowerfineness alloys to meet retail price points,therefore lowering palladium purchasing bythe trade. Palladium continues to be popularin men’s wedding bands where it is offeredas an alternative to white gold. It is expectedthat demand for palladium will remain firmin Europe in 2012.

Retail reaction toQueen’s Speech

UK retailers were distinctly underwhelmedby the Queen’s Speech last month.

“In 2011 retailers were involved in negotiatinga string of responsibility deals, were affectedby changes to employment legislation and had to prepare for the implications of increased localism,” stated StephenRobertson, director general of the BritishRetail Consortium.

“I find it ironic that a government that pre-election promised to cut the burden of red tape on business has introduced the possibility of even more red tape,” addsMichael Hoare, CEO of the NAG. “I recallour pre-election hustings meeting at whichthe only thing all three parties agreed onwas the need to reduce legislation, yet I seeno evidence of the promised sunset clausesand one-in-one-out policies. Robertsonagrees: “For retail to contribute effectively toeconomic growth we need the Governmentto show considerably more restraint when it comes to red tape. Sadly the Queen’sSpeech suggests there’s little sign of theleopard changing its spots.”

Heresy Jewels unveiledActress Emilia Fox was among guests who attended the launch of Heresy Jewellery

Design in Bristol last month. Founded by certified gemmologist Matthew Morrell followingfive years of ‘research, training and planning’ Heresy aims to offer ‘a fresh approach’ to commisioning and customising fine jewellery.

“The gem and jewellery industry has traditionally been shrouded in secrecy. And the public have all-too-often been misinformed about important characteristics of their intendedpurchases,” he explains. “This can make buying jewellery a daunting prospect. I believedesigning jewellery should be an enjoyable journey and a bit of an adventure too! I want tobe a guide making it simple, informative and fun.”

Where the option exists, Heresy will offer materials sourced from suppliers who shareMorrell’s ethical concerns. Before retraining as a gemmologist with HRD Antwerp, Morrellworked in journalism, public relations and corporate social responsibility. Between 2007 and2011 he travelled extensively in Asia, north Africa and the Middle East visiting mining areas/cutting centres and researching different cultural approaches to jewellery design and manufacture. Heresy offers a search service for rare and unusual gemstones, and antiquepieces. The former are supplied with certificates from leading laboratories (GRS/Gubelin,Switzerland) and its diamonds are certified under the Kimberley Process.

Platinum marketback into surplus

Jewel thief convicted

Aman has been found guilty of an armed robbery on NAG member Thurlow Champnessjewellers in Bury St Edmonds. During the attack in February 2011, the gang of four men

armed with sledgehammers were challenged by a 71-year old man who grabbed their bagof jewellery. The three other men are due to be sentenced at a later date. For more conviction-related good news turn to our Security feature on p50.

J Fischer and Sohn


Industry News |

S N I P P E T SGIA turns digital page

All the peer-reviewed research on diamonds,coloured stones and pearls presented inthe Gemological Institute of America’s quarterly journal Gems & Gemology (G&G), is now available on the iPad. Thenew G&G app complements the journalwith enhanced digital content and is downloadable for free on iTunes. The launchof this digital version makes G&G’s researchaccessible to a broader audience.

A ruby record

A 32.08 carats cushion-shaped Burmeseruby and diamond ring by Chaumet wasthe top lot at last month’s ‘Jewels for Hope’sale held by Christie’s Geneva. It sold forUS$6,742,4000, setting a new world recordfor any ruby sold at auction. The collectionof Mrs Lily Safra, realised a total of US$37.9,the full proceeds going to 32 charitableinstitutions. Two days later Christie’sMagnificent Jewels sale, also in Genevaachieved a total of US$72,264,493.

RJC update

The Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC)has announced that over the past monththe following companies have achieved certification by meeting the ethical, social andenvironmental standards required: ElegantCollection, Hari Krishna Exports Private Ltdand Premier Gem Corp. which brings thetotal to 170 certified companies. In additionMetalor USA Refining is the first refiner andcompany in the Council’s membership to becertified against the new RJC Chain of CustodyStandard. This certification complementsMetalor’s achievement last year as the firstrefiner to receive certification.

Bespoke diamond for Mayfair

Vania Leles, who previously worked as afine jewellery and diamond expert for Graffon Bond Street, De Beers and Sotheby’s,has brought her own brand, VanLelesDiamonds to London. The new office, closeto Harrods and Harvey Nichols will allowLeles to showcase her first diamond jewellery collection Timeless Grace as wellas offer a personal service to bespoke clients.The former fashion model gained her qualifications as a gemmologist at the GIA.

Gold marks on bonded gold bannedThe British Hallmarking Council has banned stand-alone gold marks on bonded gold. Ever

increasing gold prices are driving significant changes in the UK fine jewellery trade, onesuch trend being the introduction of bonded gold and an increase in gold plated and rolledgold products coming to market. Bonded gold items are produced with a thick layer of goldalloy bonded on to a base metal or sterling silver core. The resulting article is only about 10per cent gold alloy by weight on average, but could be easily mistaken as an all-gold item bythe consumer or the retailer.

Such products have been introduced from the US where there are clear regulations for marking and describing them. However, the descriptor ‘bonded gold’ is not specificallypermitted by the 1973 Hallmarking Act, which did not envisage the development of theprocess at the time it was drafted. Advice has been sought from the British HallmarkingCouncil (BHC) by Trading Standards Authorities about the use of the term ‘bonded gold’ andas to the correct way to mark such items. Official guidance has now been issued, based onthe existing provisions covering rolled gold and plated gold in the 1973 Hallmarking Act.

The BHC’s view is that no enforcement action should be taken in respect of the use of theterm ‘bonded gold’. The BHC further stipulates that, assuming the core is 925 i.e. sterling silver,the article should carry a full silver hallmark, or a 925 stamp if it is under the hallmarkingexemption weight for silver of 7.78 grams. Bonded gold on a base metal core cannot be hallmarked. No stand-alone gold fineness marks will be permitted on bonded gold articles,because they are potentially confusing and misleading to UK consumers. For full details visit:www.theassayoffice.co.uk/bonded_gold

MBE for jewellerHusband and wife team John Ayton and Annoushka Ducas were awarded MBEs last

month for their services to the British jewellery industry. The fine jewellery company,Annoushka, was launched in 2009 and as well as concessions in stores such as Harrods andSelfridges has one boutique in Knightsbridge, with another opening in London’s SouthMolton Street next month.

Previously entrepreneur Ayton and designer Ducas were best known for having co-foundedLinks of London which grew into a global luxury brand before being sold to Folli Follie in2006. They left the company the following year. After leaving Links, Ayton invested in thestart-up business Bremont Watch Company, later becoming its chairman. He is also directorof Walpole, the organisation aimed at serving and promoting British luxury brands, which alsomentors and nurtures emerging talent.

| Industry News


S N I P P E T SCrown Jewels auctioned

No, not the real onessilly…! Just a replica ofthe Imperial StateCrown, which has beencreated in Diamoniqueby QVC and will beauctioned to raisemoney for Breast Cancer Care in October.The ultimate accessory for any fashionqueen features 2,276 simulated diamondstones set in silver. The piece is valued at£10,528. The real Imperial State Crown isan exact replica of an earlier model madefor Queen Victoria.

Jubilee commemorative bars

Cookson Gold is celebrating the Jubilee withlimited edition precious metal bars. The 5gmhallmarked bars struck in solid silver or 9ctyellow gold have been created especiallyfor the occasion and are available exclusivelyto Cookson customers. Each comes in apresentation box.

Cornerstone goes live

Cornerstone, the jewellery brand/projectcreated by designer Paul Spurgeon in collaboration with Soweto-based jewellerymaker Nqobile Nkosi has launched a website.Designed and constructed by a young webdesigner, also in Soweto, the site explains theethos behind Cornerstone and showcasesthe full collection.www.cornerstonedesigns.co.za

Members for Hallmarking Council

The Secretary of State for Business, Innovationand Skills is seeking four new members tojoin the British Hallmarking Council.Applications are open to anyone with therelevant skills and experience to assist theBHC. The new members will serve for a termof three years, starting from 1st January,2013. There are two vacancies for memberswith experience in the precious metal tradeor manufacturing, either from the bespokeor mass produced jewellery market or fromretailing, and two for persons either withconsumer expertise, or independents withrelevant experience. The closing date forapplications is Monday 25 June 2012.

Goldsmiths’ appointmentThe Goldsmiths’ Company has a new Prime Warden

– Lord Sutherland of Houndwood. One of thecountry’s preeminent philosophers of religionStewart Sutherland (71) has enjoyed a long anddistinguished career in academia. In recognition ofhis commitment to education he received aKnighthood in 1994 and was subsequently investedwith the Order of the Thistle in 2003. Lord Sutherlandjoined the Goldsmiths’ Company in 1987, waselected to the Livery in 1991 and to the Court ofAssistants in 2000 and has been a long servingmember of the Company’s Education Committee.

Lord Sutherland said: “I am looking forward to my year as Prime Warden. We live in challenging times which makes the Company’s educational and charitable initiatives evenmore pertinent. In addition the Company’s commitment and responsibility towards its tradeand industry remain at its core, as has been demonstrated by the considerable investmentin the new Goldsmiths Centre which was officially opened in April. While demanding, this isnonetheless an exciting time to be Prime Warden of such an august and proactive Company.”

Van Cleef & Arpels in China

MOCA the Museum of Contemporary Art in Shanghai is playing host to ‘Van Cleef &Arpels, Timeless Beauty’, a heritage exhibition, which will be shown until 15th July

2012. Spanning over 100 years of history, the exhibition will show jewellery, watches, andprecious accessories, as well as archive drawings and documents from the place VendômeMaison. For the first time in China, more than 370 pieces gathered from the Maison’sCollection and from private French and International owners will be on display.

New watch repairservice launchedMark Sutcliffe, previously managing director of DESCO Luxury UK has launched Swiss

Watch Repair, having seen a gap in the market for a service aimed at retailers and distributors of Swiss watch brands. “We were often approached at DESCO by smaller distributers asking if we could help them with their watch repairs. As a subsidiary of MauriceLacroix, we were unable to do this, so when Maurice Lacroix moved its European operationto Germany, it seemed a logical step for the staff to now work independently, winning workfrom some of these brands,” he explained.

Renowned for their accuracy and reliability as well as beauty, Swiss watches can neverthelessrequire a repair sometimes and all great watches benefit from an overhaul at some point inorder to keep oils smooth and water resistance intact. “However the expert skills and servicesrequired for these are often in short supply,” says Sutcliffe.

“A fully-equipped watch studio is expensive to fit, takes up valuable space and requiresconsiderable expertise. Most Swiss brands specify the equipment that an official service centreshould have, which can mean an investment of over £50,000 in machinery and tools alone.Add to that the required stock of parts for each brand and we can see why many retailers anddistributors of watch brands would prefer the option of subcontracting this work,” he adds.

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| Industry News


S N I P P E T SIJL jumps to it

IJL’s UK sales executive Michael Heywoodhas announced he will be doing a charitysky dive just before this year’s event opens.He is taking on the brave challenge to raisemoney for Retail Trust, the only charity thatlooks after the needs of all three millionpeople working in retail, and the children’scharity Together for Short Lives. The sky diveis taking place on 25th August, ahead of IJL2012 which runs from 2nd-5th Septemberat Earls Court 2.

Jubilee Wedding Salon

To celebrate the Diamond Jubilee, as wellas the company’s own 60th anniversary, Burlington Arcade jeweller Richard Ogdenhas transformed its Ring Room into aWedding Salon for visitors to the Arcade.The one-stop bridal venue will showcasefaux gem tiaras by Andrew Prince as well asRichard Ogden’s own engagement ringsand wedding bands. Also in the salon willbe wedding gowns and accessories,Penhaligon fragrances, sparkling wines andwedding cakes. The redecorated Salon willbe open from 6th - 9th June.

Award for Beaverbrooks

Scottish branches of Beaverbrooks havebeen named number one Medium/LargeWorkplace in Scotland at this year’sScotland’s Best Workplaces Awards, whichtook place in April. The awards recogniseoutstanding businesses where staff ‘givetheir personal best and work together as a team in an environment of trust’.Beaverbrooks was commended for its longstanding work with charity, as well ascultivating a management pool by regularlypromoting employees and rewarding customer-facing staff with monthly, quarterlyand annual bonuses.

JeDeCo opens in OXO Tower

JeDeCo has won the bid for a prime retailshowroom and studio space in London’sOXO Tower. Ten eponymous jewellery collections from emerging as well as established designers, were unveiled to thepublic on 1st June. Among those sharing thespace are Anna Loucah, JeDeCo founderCindy Dennis Mangan and Annika Burman.

New creative directorappointed at RoxGlasgow-based jewellery retailer Rox has

appointed scottish designer Marc Rossas creative director for the store. The newposition will see the 27 year old, whotrained with Vivienne Westwood, takingresponsibility for all creative aspects of thebusiness, ranging from branding and visualconcepts to the design and development ofthe Rox Silver collection. Ross has alsodesigned a new bespoke uniform for Rox’s60 sales consultants: a dress with a strong focus on silhouette and with a neckline structuredto allow necklaces to be modeled for customers. “Marc’s talents transfer incredibly well intothe jewellery industry and we believe that he has the potential to create collections as beautiful and diverse as talented jewellery artisans like Shaun Leane and Theo Fennell,” saidKyron Keogh, MD of Rox which has four branches in Scotland.

Torgoen partners RAFWatch brand Torgoen Swiss has formed a partnership with the Royal Air Force Typhoon

2012 Display Team as its official watch supplier. All members of the flying squad willwear a limited edition T16302 chronograph made to commemorate the partnership.“Torgoen Swiss was created as an aviation brand, so this tie-up with the RAF Typhoon Display Team is a perfect fit for us and the fearless attitude of the pilots embodies thebrand’s Nothing’s Impossible strapline,” says Peter Carmichael of Since 1853 Ltd, official UK distributor for the brand.

Conflict diamonds discussion

Members of the World Diamond Council, which met at the Fiera di Vicenza last month,reaffirmed the diamond and jewellery industry’s commitment to eliminating the trade

in conflict diamonds, and agreed that the Kimberley Process Certification Scheme shouldevolve to reflect changes that have taken place since the KPCS was first launched in 2003.

In particular, the WDC supported any discussions to widen the conflict diamonds’ definitionin the Core Documents of the KPCS, beyond the current definition which limits its scope todiamonds that finance civil conflict. The meeting affirmed a proposal that conflict diamondsshould cover “diamond-related violence in rough diamond producing and trading areas.”

First collection for diamond setter

After working at the bench for the past 25 years, diamond setter Jamie Coulston haslaunched his own jewellery collection and brand name. Beau Diamond (named for his

daughter and for the shape of his designs) the line now includesan as-yet one-off special piece created to celebrate the Jubilee.Created in sterling silver the statement cocktail ring is set witharound 300 CZ stones. The main collection (a favourite of singerPixie Lott) includes platinum-plated silver and CZ earrings, ringsand pendants, all featuring the diamond silhouette. For futherdetails visit: www.beaudiamond.com

| NAG News


Last month saw what can only be describedas a ‘gaggle’ of Executive Development

Forum members descend on the rain-soakedCity of Oxford for the fourth annual EDF OxfordCongress. Orchestrated by Mike McGraw ofDevelopment Initiatives the event broughttogether the EDF groups, who work togetherthroughout the year, for a day of lectures atthe city’s Saïd Business School. This year’slectures focused on staff motivation andtraining; using PR to enhance your brandprofile and how jewellers can get the bestfrom digital media marketing.

After Mike’s introduction, the first speakerof the day was Heiko Figge. Now with morethan 25 years experience in the hotel industry, Figge became MD of Thistle andGuoman Hotels after 10 years with thecompany. He enlightened our delegates onhow he’d risen to such a height – beforedivulging the techniques he currently employsto keep staff trained and motivated.

First he touched on the online rating systems that have seen a great change inthe way the hotelier runs a business. Heexplained the importance of good ratingsand how keeping staff happy and well-trained is a key part of this. Figge’s techniquesfocus on micro-managing the habits of hisstaff, while also providing mini-training breaksthroughout the day, enabling the companyto keep most of the staff motivated to provide a great level of service. Delegateslearned how Figge uses a ‘daily habit’ chart to keep staff focused on particular

days and how staff are entitled to at least 15 minutes of training per-day – even ifthey don’t realise they’re training. Figge tied this all into the mantra ‘because goodisn’t good enough’.

Our second speaker, Claire Jones from Bottle PR, had an altogether different message. Less about keeping staff sweet,Jones talked about how to handle journalists in order to get your story printedin the right place, at the right time. Shefocused primarily on how to view your PRstrategy in a simple and logical way – whatdo you want to achieve, and how are you going to get there? She outlined theimportance of having case studies, breakingstories, and making yourself available. Bydoing this Jones gave delegates an idea ofhow a simple PR strategy can be achievable.During this process delegates discussed the importance of local media sources andhow best to tap into them. Jones gave somefinal tips linking these to previous work Bottle

PR had done – and explained exactly how itwent about achieving its results.

Post-lunch we heard the final speaker ofthe day – Luke Smith from Croud DigitalMarketing. A relatively young business, Croudassists companies with their social mediaand digital marketing outlets; helping themto make more of their online presence. Theargument being that an online presenceisn’t enough on its own – it’s what you dowith that presence that counts. With a quickpresentation about the use of GoogleAnalytics, Adwords campaigns, how to useSEO and how to use social media, Smith hiton a number of key topics that jewellers areaiming to get to grips with. As a number ofEDFers are more traditional high-street jewellers, it was an eye-opening talk – someare either still sceptical or have been morewary about how to approach the subject.

All in all, the day gave some importantinsights into what jewellers are doing right –and how they can do better in some areas.Many delegates went away buzzing with ideasto implement in their business, which was agreat sign that the NAG’s event was a definitesuccess. We’d like to thank all our speakers,and, of course, Mike McGraw, for making the 2012 Oxford Congress so inspiring. To find out more about what delegates reallythink you can find an EDF 2012 update onour blog: nag-blog.org Or you can find theircomments on our YouTube channel:youtube.com/user/JewellersOnlineMiles Hoare

Advanced selling course – 2 days Date and location to be confirmed Here is another chance to attend this very successful sales course facilitated byVirada Training. Benefitting all levels of salespeople and focusing on real sales situations,this two-day course will inspire, inform andhelp delegates make the most of every selling opportunity.

Feedback from delegates: “Interesting, informative, inspirational – the

day flew by. Run it more often!”“Very informative, interesting and quite amazing!” “Very useful. Well worth the investment”NAG Members: £495 + VAT (£594)

Non NAG Members: £550 + VAT (£660)

Gold buying and precious metal testing – 1 day London, 13th July and 12th Sept 2012The subject of this new seminar is the identification of jewellery metals for purchase

or secured lending and will help retailers tofully understand and identify metals used inboth precious and non-precious jewellery.Topics under scrutiny will be: the gold fixand bullion process; the three steps to jewellery metal identification using acidsand alternative methods of testing andawareness of the legal requirements whenbuying gold from the public.

The new Gold Standard – the voluntarycode of conduct for the face-to-face purchase of second-hand precious metals

Fourth annual EDF Conference

NAG Seminar Programme 2012 – Summer update


NAG News |

New Member Applications

Members wishing to comment on any of these applications can call Amy Oliver on tel: 020 7613 4445 or email her at: [email protected] within threeweeks of receipt of this issue.

Ordinary ApplicationsEdward Cox (Goldsmith), Cheltenham,Gloucestershire

Carr Diamonds Ltd, London

Simon Marks, London

Silver Tree Jewellery Co. Ltd, Lancaster

Alumni Applications – AssociateDamian John Miles, Okehampton, Devon

There is still time to book your place toattend the NAG’s most prestigious event

of the year – the AGM and Luncheon. Thisyear the event will be held at the world-renowned Lord’s Cricket Ground on theTuesday 26th June.

The cost of the day is £55 + VAT (£66.00)which includes a three course luncheon andrefreshments. There will be an additionalcost of £11 per person for those who maybe interested in taking a 45 minute guidedtour of the Lord’s Cricket Ground.

We will also be joined by guest speakerMike Brace, a sporting hero who was blindedby a firework at a young age but did not letthis prevent him from pursuing his passionfor sport. Mike’s main sporting achievementsinclude completing two London marathons,two ski marathons in Norway and Switzerlandand, definitely the most tiring, the Devizes toWestminster Canoe race – over 125 miles!

Please note that the invitation is open toall NAG members so please join us for whatis guaranteed to be a fantastic day!

For more information or to book yourplace at this year’s Annual Luncheon,please contact Ritu Verma on: 020 76134445 or email: [email protected]

NAG’s AnnualGeneral Meeting

and jewellery, which is supported by theNAG, will also be covered. NAG Members: £222: + VAT (£266.40)Non NAG Members: £245 + VAT (£294)

Selling to Chinese customers – 1 dayLocation: London, 19th July 2012

Chinese customers already account for about30 per cent of the luxury goods market inBritain. Are you making the most of thissales opportunity? This one day course willbe an insight into cultural differences andexpectations. Your team will learn how toprovide the best possible service and maximise sales to Chinese customers bycreating the right buying experience.

Feedback from delegates: “Excellent presentation. Explained thingsclearly and precisely”“Great. Very informative”“Brilliant”NAG Members: £300 + VAT (£360) Non NAG Members: £330.00 + VAT (£396)

Diamonds & diamond grading – 2 days Location: London,16th & 17th Oct 2012Presented by Eric Emms, the leading authorityon diamond grading, this practical seminaris presented specifically from the retailers’viewpoint. Included in the two-day course is

the identification of diamonds together withtreatments, clarity, colour and many otheraspects of diamond knowledge and a lookat corporate social responsibility issues.

Feedback from delegates:“The seminar was highly practical with plentyof diamonds for us to look at. Eric managedto provide sufficient information to keep usinterested and able to gain an insight intothe technical aspects of diamond grading”“Really good. I learned a lot and it hasgiven me more confidence”“A good investment to promote sales. I would highly recommend it”NAG Members: £402.00 + VAT (£482.40)Non NAG Members: £442.00 + VAT(£530.40)

Another opportunity to attend a JETPro Taster DayLocation: London, 27th June 2012With the retail sector undergoing one of the most important transformations ever,jewellers are reassessing their managementskills. The NAG now has a modular man-agement development course, presentedby Mike McGraw, which promises to providethe necessary skills to take advantage of anyfuture developments.

Aimed at business owners and senior staff,the course is modular, based on assignmentsand you can pick and mix which modulesare right for you.

But don’t take our word for it. The NAG isarranging a further taster day where you canevaluate whether JETPro is for you and yourstaff. Not only is it a low cost way of startingthe next phase of your management’sdevelopment but you will take many greatideas from the day.NAG Members: £35.00 + VATNon NAG Members: £47.00 + VAT

For more information on seminars andcourses please contact Amanda White atthe NAG: 020 7613 4445 or email her at:[email protected]

| NAG News


Congratulations on your 70th anniversary!What form have your celebrations takenand are there more to come?Opening our flagship store in Ringwood to invited guests was a wonderful start tocelebrating our 70th anniversary. It has created a template for future refurbishmentsand acquisitions. We have an exhibitionplanned for July when we are expectingaround 600 guests who will tour a countryhouse filled with our jewellery collections,while enjoying summer cocktails, canapés

and some fabulous entertainment. We willalso be holding 70th anniversary celebrationweekends in a further three of our storeslater in the year. Our staff will also be joining in by raising money for the Dorset & Somerset Air Ambulance with a 70 mileendurance bike race!

The business started life as a watch and clock repair shop under your great-grandfather; when did the focusswitch to retailing jewellery?My great-grandfather repaired watches and clocks in his garden shed, but it wasn’t until my grandfather Peter Allumjoined him in 1952 and invested his lifesavings of £27 that the jewellery shop inShaftesbury opened.

You are now the fourth generation of the Allum family to manage the business; would you like the family tradition to continue?Nothing would make me happier than tosee Allum & Sidaway continue under theAllum name, although the last line in ourfamily is my fifteen year old son, Jack. Jack will have to choose his own route and decide for himself where his careertakes him, as long as he is happy then thatis all that matters.

Many of your staff have undertaken JETcourses with the NAG and won academicawards for their achievements. Howimportant do you think education is for the success of a business?Educating our staff is paramount in the success of Allum & Sidaway. All of our staff undertake the JET course run by theNAG, and it is lovely to see so many A andA* grades coming back. Abigail Stradlingwon the Greenough Trophy in 2011 whichwas a very proud moment for both her and Allum & Sidaway. But training doesn’tstop there, we have created our own customer focused training day called ‘See

the Difference’ which concentrates onexceeding customers’ expectations when itcomes to service!

I always ask our Member of the Month toshare an anecdote about a memorablecustomer – does one spring to mind?My story takes me back about 16 years. MrsTattersall must have been one of our oldestand scattiest customers who would happilyhave a conversation with herself while I listened! On this particular day Mrs Tattersallentered the shop with her cute Yorkshireterrier in tow, we all sat down at a desk andshe reminded me of her age periodically.Then a rancid smell came over me, and allI could think as my best pen rolled off theedge of the desk was that poor MrsTattersall had had an unfortunate accident!It wasn’t until Mrs Tattersall had left that I discovered her delightful Yorkie had left apresent for me… and my pen protrudedlike a rocket from said present.

If you would like your business to be considered as Member of the Month,please write in and tell us why! Send anemail to: [email protected]

In this issue’s Member of the Month, Amy Oliver speaks to JasonAllum of Allum & Sidaway. This successful family-run business is celebrating its 70th anniversary – it opened in Shaftsbury in1942 – as well as its 60th year as a member of the NAG.

NAG Member of the Month

Sparkling Dreams

BOOST STAFF CONFIDENCE AND IMPROVE SALES

PROFESSIONAL JEWELLERS’ DIPLOMA

Invest in staff training and get ahead of the competition by contacting the NAG now on:

tel: 020 7613 4445 #1 or email [email protected] visit www.jewellers-online.org

The National Association of Goldsmiths, 78a Luke Street, London, EC2A 4XG

The Professional Jewellers’ Diploma is packed with information on effective selling designed

Get all the practical skills that a jeweller needs in two bite-sized online assessment chunks (known as JET 1 and JET 2

As well as product knowledge and selling skills, customer service, hallmarking, gemstones, metals (gold, platinum, palladium and silver) the programmes also cover:

JET 1 Online: New designers, personal development, rings, silverware and gifts.

JET 2 Online: Alternative shopping,


NAG News: Education & Training |

This issue we celebrate the winner of the coveted Bransom JET 1 Project

Assignment Award for April 2012. Held inconjunction with the team at Bransom RetailSystems, each month the NAG’s educationdepartment enters all the JET 1 assignmentsinto a competition to arrive at the ‘best project’. The award, judged by the externalexaminers, gives students the opportunity tobe rewarded with a trip to the prestigiousGoldsmiths’ Hall, for the presentation oftheir certificate at our annual student awardceremony. Students who successfully complete all five assignments of JET 1 to asatisfactory standard will be awarded a JET 1certificate and are then entitled to continueon to JET 2 and the completion of theProfessional Jewellers’ Diploma.

From the assignments received for themonth of April, the top honour is handed toRyan Mayers of F. Hinds in Cwmbran, Gwent– so congratulations to him! It wasn’t justthe moderator who considered Ryan to be aworthy winner – his tutor, Michelle McCormick,is also full of praise. “Ryan has been a fabulous student throughout his JET 1 course.All of his assignments have been submittedto the highest standard – and early too!” shesaid. “He has researched all of the projectsubjects at great depth. The content of hiswork demonstrates that he has exceptionalselling and customer care knowledge.”

To understand why Ryan’s assignment inparticular had been singled out this month,we spoke to the project moderator: “Thepiece of JET 1 work sent in by Ryan for thefinal assignment can only be described asoutstanding!” they said. “There is clear evidence of attention to detail and a positiveattitude to selling skills. The sound commentsgiven to the customer in the final part of his project demonstrate an ability to turntheoretical knowledge into practice.Competition was tight for the award – therewere six other serious contenders – butRyan’s script definitely had the edge over

the others. He’s undoubtedly a worthy winner of the April JET 1 Bransom Award.”

When The Jeweller asked Ryan how it felt to be announced as this month’s topstudent, he, in common with all previousrecipients, acknowledged that it was satisfyingto get the recognition and to know all thehard work was paying off. “I’ve been in the jewellery trade for about a year and I’mcurrently training to be a manager,” heexplained. “Taking JET 1 was the first step ingradually getting to where I need to be.Having been out of education for a fewyears, I was slow to start with – but as I gotmore into the course I really started to enjoythe experience. All the assignments werereally enjoyable, the final one in particular.The online platform was really easy to use,and the tutors were great. I’d post up mywork and within two days I’d have mygrades back. It was made even better by thefact that it really helped me get into the subject matter, and now it’s done I feel a bitlost without it! I would definitely recommendJET 1 to anyone in a similar position. It givesyou lots of information you might not alreadyknow – and it really boosts confidence onthe sales floor.”

The education department would like tocongratulate Ryan on his extremely hardwork, and wish him continued success in hiswork and future studies.

For more information on the JET coursesvisit: www.jewellers-online.org or call 0207613 4445 (option 1). For information on Bransom go to:www.bransom.co.uk

April’s Bransom Awardwinner announced

Iam ashamed to say that this is the first timeI have attended the Perth Conference –

boy, have I been missing out! Anyone witha passion for gems, who regularly attendsLoughborough but has somehow missed thisoff their schedule, should really give seriousthought to attending in future. This eventattracts delegates from all over the world.

It began with an evening presentationfrom Dr Liz Goring, a craft advisor to theScottish Arts Council. Her talk ‘SuffragetteJewellery’ demonstrated her passion for thejewellery and history of this early 20thCentury period. Saturday morning startedwith a ‘A Review of Pearls’ from Prof. HenryHänni, a retired director of the SSEF SwissGemmological Institute. His special researchon the subject proved invaluable as he wasable to talk about the latest research/issuesfacing the pearl industry today. He alsoallowed delegates to inspect his unique collection of ‘halved’ pearls.

Following Dr Jack Ogden’s report on thelatest developments at the Gem-A, Prof.Godrey Fitton professor of Igneous Petrologyat Edinburgh University spoke about‘Geodynamics and Gems – or Why wewon’t find rubies on Venus’. He was able to explain how the creation and make-up of our planet has played a part in the creation of gemstones including particularreference to rubies which, without our salty oceans, would not exist.

Later Maggie Campbell Pedersen talkedabout ivory and covered not only the longhistory of carving this emotive material butalso mentioned the many different sources,alternatives and/or fakes around and how

to identify them. The day’s final presentationwas from Dr Ulrich Henn, MD of the GermanGemmological Association whose talk‘Colour Modification of Quartz and Fire Opal’took at look at the methods of colour treatment available today.

For those delegates still thirsty for moreDarko Sturman, Curator Emeritus of theRoyal Ontario Museum offered a session on how to teach gemmology. Arguably, the highlight of the day, however, was theevening’s Ceilidh. The Scots’ passion fordancing proved to be highly contagious!

The next day Richard Slater gave a talk onthe variety of jewellery and gemstones hehas come across as an auctioneer. He alsotouched on market values which was anadded bonus for the valuer delegates. Prof. Hänni’s second presentation was ongems for investment, a controversial subjectbecause gemstones are a portable form ofwealth and may seem attractive in times offalling confidence in the financial market,but there are many risks involved, as investorshave discovered.

Fellow Conference-goer Shirley Mitchell FIRV

attended some of the workshops during theevent. “I chose to join Antoinette Matlins’class, ‘Simple tools are NOT obsolete ingemmology’, because as an independentvaluer travelling to my trade/private clients,the ‘simple tools’ are essential,” she explained.“Antoinette started by explaining how thedark-field loupe could be used to identifyfracture filling in diamonds far more quicklyand easily than just the loupe. So it madesense that if fracture filling in diamond waseasier to see, then seeing the flash in aglass-filled ruby would be too. The newermethods of glass filling ‘hybrid’ rubies canbe difficult to detect in mounted jewelleryand with good material becoming scarcer,they are becoming more prevalent today. I have used my dark-field loupe for a lot ofthings but after Antoinette’s class I am sureI will be using it for many more,” she added.

“We also looked at UV and how that canseparate tanzanite from its simulants andother stones. Antoinette is a wonderfulteacher and so passionate about the subject. My second workshop was with theacclaimed Alan Hodgkinson on ‘UnusualGems’. Alan has been practicing gemmologyfor 55 years and in that time has amassedan extraordinary number of weird and wackygemstones,” Shirley explained. “We weregiven various gemstones with crib sheets asto what we may find – 50 in total and onlytwo hours to see them all! So many gemstones to study and test – we were ingemmology heaven. We looked at naturalversus synthetic, rough versus faceted,inclusions, lustre, polariscope stones, and allunder the superb teaching of the great manhimself – what could be better than that?Roll on next year!”

Next year’s Conference is in May in Peebles(not Perth). To register your interest [email protected]

| NAG News: IRV Review


NAG Institute of Registered Valuers R E V I E W

IRV Co-ordinator Sandra Page reports on her first time at theScottish Gemmological Association's annual Perth Conference

A gem of an event north of the border

Prof. Henry Hänni

Dr Ulrich Henn

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BJA News |

Ican hardly believe that it is two years since I first donned the ‘gong’ – the rather

splendid badge of office that comes withthe job of being BJA chairman – and that Iam now at the end of my time in office.

It has been a real roller coaster ride butone I have enjoyed enormously and onewhich I leave feeling quietly confident that Ihave achieved, if not all, then very many ofthe aims I set out for myself – and for theAssociation at large – when I made myinaugural speech in 2010.

At that time the Association was in a state of flux and my first task was to appointa new chief executive – Simon Rainer.Simon and I were new boys together andwe immediately formed a strong workingpartnership. Simon was quick to grasp the necessity I had identified of creating a more business-like BJA and of building a more sustainable business model for the Association, thus ensuring that it is not entirely dependent upon membershipsubscriptions.

In the past two years we have not onlyachieved a more solid financial footing but have also broadened the Association’sremit and increased the range of services it offers. I know that our work in the fields of security, ethics and training in particular

has been especiallywell received.

Another prioritywas to forge closerlinks across themany strands ofthe industry andI’m pleased to saythat our work with other tradeassociations and industry bodies includingthe Responsible Jewellery Council, TheNational Association of Goldsmiths andmore latterly London’s Diamond Bourse hasalso grown and strengthened.

As all good business people know ‘succession planning’ must be a key elementin any strategic plan – and this is particularlytrue when one is in a managerial role thatlasts just two years. I am delighted to saythat my vice chairman, Gary Williams (whofollowing formal election takes over fromme on 12th June) and our nominated vicechairman Jason Holt, who will take over fromGary in 2014, have been fully involved in themetamorphosis that has taken place withinthe BJA in the past two years and are ready tobuild further on the excellent foundations wehave already put in place over the next four,so ensuring an on-going clarity of purpose.

Any association which reaches its 125thAnniversary – especially with a record highin its membership numbers – must Ibelieve be doing something right! To findout more about what has been done in the past year and what we have planned for the future I hope as many members as possible will join us for our special celebratory AGM at Somerset House duringThe Jewellery Show London.

The team has worked hard to compile an Anniversary Exhibition showcasing 26fascinating pieces of jewellery, silverware,badges, trophies and objet d’art all createdby member firms and spanning the 12decades the BJA has been representing the industry, which will be on show to thosewho attend and for the two trade days during Jewellery Week. As this exhibitionshows very clearly, our industry is still developing and moving forward and it hasbeen a very great privilege to be involved inhelping to ensure that its trade associationdoes the same. Thanks must also go to the BJA team and to my hard-working fellowNational Committee members. I couldn’thave done it without them.

I look forward to seeing you in London!

To celebrate the Jubilee, the BJA haslaunched a prestigious competition to

create a commemorative diamond broochfor the Queen. Devised by members of theBJA National Committee, a brief – ‘TheGraceful Modernisation of the Monarchy’ –invites BJA members to send in their designs.

Designers are encouraged to be inspiredby the Queen’s sixty year reign, through manyformative and historically significant eras,and to bring a contemporary interpretation toa fine-jewellery brooch design that representsthe elegance, grace and empathy with whichthe Queen has guided the nation and indeedthe Commonwealth over that time.

In commemoration of the DiamondJubilee and as part of the 125th anniversary

celebrations of the BJA, pledges and donations have been and continue to bereceived from our generous members andwe have an excellent ‘pot’ of materials from which the winning brooch can bemanufactured. In addition to a selection ofnatural coloured diamonds, we have beenpledged a red, yellow, green and lilac natural coloured diamond, the colours offour national flowers of the UK, whichdesigners may consider using in their ownrepresentative fashion.

“The idea is that manufacture, mounting,setting and polishing is all undertaken byBJA member firms willing to put their skillsto use and give their time to fashion thisunique item,” said Lindsey Straughton, BJA

marketing manager.“The brooch is to bemade primarily inplatinum and Lonminhas generouslypledged up to 60grammes. Other mines across the BritishIsles are giving some small quantity of rareEnglish, Welsh, Scottish and Irish gold whichmay also be incorporated in the design.”

The brooch will be gifted to the Queenafter being displayed at a BJA event at the House of Commons in November. Thedeadline for design entries is 3rd August2012 and shortlisted designs will be shownand voted on via the website and at the BJA stand during IJL in September.Download an entry form at www.bja.org.ukTo pledge diamonds or production timecontact the BJA on 0121 237 1110.

It’s goodbye from me

Mike Hughes, chairman of the BJA

BJA launches brooch competitionfor Diamond Jubilee year

| BJA News


To celebrate the BJA’s 125th Anniversary,we are organising a celebratory BJA

membership awards programme, culminatingin a prestigious black tie awards ceremonyat the Jewellery Benevolent Ball in Birminghamon December 6th 2012. “Success of thisinaugural awards programme will hopefullysee this becoming a regular annual event,”said chief executive Simon Rainer.

The winner of each category will receive a commemorative trophy designed by jeweller Erica Sharpe, who recently took the first prize for her design of a commem-orative silver desk accessory for the BJA.This will be in addition to universal industryrecognition for their great achievement!Category winners and those shortlisted will also be provided with new BJA commemorative logos.

Nominations are invited from all BJAmembers who can either nominate themselves or another BJA member or asupplier of services to the BJA membership.A separate form will be required for each nomination.

Members may only provide nominationsfor a maximum of two categories. All nominations need to be completed by 7th

September, 2012. An Awards panel will thenjudge each entry to arrive at a short list offour companies or individuals per category.

The shortlist will then appear on the BJAwebsite and be open for voting by themembership. In two categories, voting will also be invited from companies andindividuals outside of membership. Votingwill close on 26th November, 2012.

The award categories are:BJA Member of the YearIndividual or company that has helped mostto promote the BJA during 2012. Voted forby the BJA membership.

BJA Supplier of the YearBJA member or a supplier of services to the BJA membership who has provided outstanding service during 2012. Voted forby the BJA membership.

BJA Industry Contributor of the YearBJA member that has done the most tocontribute to the overall good of the industry– suggested areas include: ethical tradingpractices, training, new standards, initiativesetc. Voted for by the BJA membership.

BJA Designer of the YearBJA member who has consistently produced the most commercially viabledesigns to raise the profile of British design.Voted for by the BJA membership and general public.

BJA Retailer of the YearBJA member running either a bricks andmortar business or ecommerce platform.Voted for by both the BJA membership andgeneral public.

For a nomination form or to nominate onlinevisit: www.bja.org.uk and click 125

Sponsorship opportunitiesPresman Mastermelts, a leading Internationalrecycler of precious metals servicing thejewellery and industrial sectors and incorporating the oldest ‘trade only’ scrapcounter in the UK, has confirmed that it willsponsor a category at the BJA’s 2012awards. “We are extremely delighted to support the BJA awards programme thisyear. As a long standing member of the BJA, we are fully behind the Association’sdesire to recognise and reward the excellentachievements of its members,” said GaryWilliams, Presman Mastermelts head of theJewellery Division.

Other category sponsorship opportunitiesare available for the 125th AwardsProgramme. For further information contactLindsey Straughton on 0121 237 1112 oremail: [email protected]

For further details on the ‘Black and White Diamond Ball’ on 6th December aswell as special rates that the BJA has negotiated for an overnight stay at theIndigo Hotel and Spa, incorporating MarcoPierre White’s restaurant in Birmingham’slatest iconic building The Cube, contact:[email protected]

BJA MembershipAwards announced

The Cube, Birmingham

Indigo Hotel

They’re not a guaranteed cure-all for thefiscal woes that currently ail us, but it’s

generally agreed that timepieces have definitely earned their keep – their place inthe shop window – over the past half adecade or so. Must-have silver and charmbrands notwithstanding, jewellery has beena hard sell for some as the economic down-turn has taken hold. Watches on the otherhand (no pun intended) have maintainedpretty healthy sales throughout.

Not all watches though. Depending onwho you talk to and where you draw thevarious lines, different price sectors within

the category are behaving differently. Andwhile the general mood among retailersand suppliers is one of cautious and quietoptimism, it would probably be stretchingthings to say that we’re out of the woods.Statistically the market is becomingpolarised. “It would appear that the alreadychallenging mid-luxury market is being further ignored by the consumer in favourof lower entry fashion/traditional watchbrands or high end luxury Swiss brands,”says Jonathan Hedges, global product manager for watches and jewellery at GfKRetail & Technology.

“The luxury market – over £5,000 – isstrong and growing,” agrees Daniel Ozel ofFestina watches at Unique. “The customerbase of this market still has money and they see it as an investment to buy a Swiss-made luxury brand. Customers who[normally] buy in the £500 to £2,000 price level have been hit most from the crisis – they’re trying to save money – sothis market is suffering the most.”

“According to retailers the £500 to£2,000 market has seen the biggest hit in


While it’s been a challengingfew years for many jewelleryretailers, those with a strongwatch offer seem to beweathering the storm, discovers Belinda Morris

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Watch Feature |

sales,” adds Mark Ryder of Steerwell. “Acrossthe price points from £2,000 down, thefeedback we get is that consumers are trading down to a lower price than theywere two to three years ago. I see this trendcontinuing for at least this year, with peoplelooking for the best value for money andsomething which offers them a unique purchase that will last.”

Henrik Leth Møller of new watch brandBering Time agrees. “I believe that in timesof crisis money will still be spent, but we, asconsumers, are more critical and aware ofwhat we spend our money on. We want‘something’ for our money. At the high endthat means quality and prestige and at thelower price points products have to offervalue for money for the critical consumer.Generally it is the mid-price segment that issuffering the most – from £400 to £1,000,”he adds.

All of which means that potentially, aswell as challenges, there are opportunitiesfor certain brands to shine. “The mid sectorof the market has had a difficult time duringthe downturn, however, we finished theyear with a healthy increase over 2010,”says Peter Lefevre, sales and marketingdirector for UK and Ireland at MauriceLacroix. “As an independent company withstrong financial backing, we feel there are great opportunities ahead, particularly as many of the bigger brands seem to bemoving into a higher price point and rationalising their distribution.”

The power of the brandAdrian McGillivray of Edox also feels that thedistribution contraction policy of certainwatch groups is fueling the desire amongsome UK retailers to actively seek freshbrands. “They’re looking for something new,exciting and different, featuring styles ormanufacturing processes that offer a USPwhich will attract new clients,” he says.“Brands with a clear message and a point ofdifference should benefit,” adds Derek Salter,UK brand director of Mondaine and Luminox,which both offer the reassurance of beingSwiss and both with their own particular anddistinctive image and features.

In addition of course there are also theestablished brands at the more affordableend of the spectrum that many consumerslook for in uncertain times. “The past couple

of years have actually presented opportunitiesfor Accurist,” says sales and marketing directorPhilip Woolff. “While a number of entry-premium and designer brands appear tohave struggled, we’ve enjoyed strong resultsthroughout. People are seeking out trustedmainstream brands with a reputation forreliability, quality and real value. This hasbenefitted Accurist.”

Does this mean that fashion designerbrands are losing their grip on the market?Depends who you ask and of course itdepends on the brand. The nature of fashionis that some names are strong one minuteand off the radar the next. “There’s reasonabledemand, but not just any brands and retailersare overwhelmed by choice now,” saysVeritime’s Neil Duckworth. “The designs are

important of course and the pricing is critical– the margin is now more important thanever for retailers,” he adds. “Strong brandnames will continue to pull people intostores and TW Steel aims to be part of this with [impactive] advertising and promotions,” says Ryder.

Even though Paul Kustow, UK sales agentfor MeisterSinger and Nomos Glashütterecognises that all but the very highest endwatch brands have found trading a challenge,there are exceptions to the rule. “We havebeen fortunate that our entry level luxurybrands have done well over the past year �

and continue to do so,” he says. “Maybe theiruniqueness and the very good comparativevalues they offer are hitting the right spotwith the retailers in these uncertain times.”

Uncertain times which may or may not begiven a lift in this year of general celebration.Retailers in the Capital and major cities andtourist destinations ought, at least, to reapsome rewards over the next few months. AsJoe Walsh, director of Laings of Glasgowpoints out, the strong watch performancebeing experienced across all of the company’sstores can be attributed to a large extent tothe Chinese market – a huge growth areafor them. “Overseas visitors are interested inthe high end watches and these consumersare replacing any slowdown in the localmarket,” he explains. “I believe the key isattracting the tourism and travelling business

market.” Mark Toulson, head of watch buyingat Aurum (Goldsmiths, Mappin & Webb and Watches of Switzerland) is also findingthat certain brands are tailoring their offer to the requirements of the Chinese tourists,who, he says, favour classic, reasonably-sized watches.

Speaking of the positive profit reportsissued by the major upmarket brandsMcGillivray wonders just who is buying ingreater numbers. “What is not clear is howtheir sales in the UK are performing, and, if

they are improving, what take up has beendue directly, or indirectly, the the Chinesetourist visiting the UK and taking advantageof the recently weak pound,” he says. “Andas regards to turning the economic corner, this greatly depends on what happens inEurope over the next 12 to 18 months. Thefinancial markets now require a period ofstability and calm if we are to avoid any further tightening of the business belt.”

Basel on a highThat prognosis aside, the general consensusis that the mood at BaselWorld earlier in theyear was upbeat – from a supplier as wellas a retailer perspective – and the knock-oneffect is an optimistic atmosphere within thetrade a whole. “It was perhaps the bestBasel in 10 years,” enthuses Kirsten Crisfordof Seiko. “Although times are tough our market seems to be robust and while thewatch market as a whole is fractionally downin volume of watches bought, it is showing

strong signs of growth in value sales; an indication that we have turned a corner.This suggests that the downturn has had anegative impact on the lower end – the volume drivers – rather than the moremedium to high-priced watches,” she adds.

| Watch Feature


Watch market statisticsComparing March 2010 - February 2011 with March 2011 - February 2012:• Watches over £1,000 have seen units grow by 0.64% but value has increased by

12.44% with a 11.73% rise in average selling price.• Watches under £1,000 have seen units decline by 6.90% but value has increased by

3.07% with a 10.71% rise in average selling price.• Watches between £5-800 have seen units decline by 10.9% and value has declined

by 10.69% with a 0.23% rise in average selling price.• Watches under £250 have seen units decline by 7.3% but value has increased by

2.24% with a 10.30% rise in average selling price.Jonathan Hedges, Global Product Manager, Watches & Jewellery, GfK Retail & Technology

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Watch Feature |

“Consumers are willing to spend a little moreon their purchases to get high quality andvalue for money – this is a positive for us.”

Simon Gilham of Zeon (who also enjoyed“the best Basel in a decade”) adds that thevolume sector (sub £100) “remains testingfor suppliers to achieve a desirable productas price points consumers are looking for. Itis perhaps this sector that has brought themost challenges to maintain volume,” hesays. “The right offer at the right price pointwill bring the consumers in and business isaround if your offer is right.” In Gilham’sview the mid-sector (sub £500) hasbecome the most important watch-buyingmarket. “With 46 per cent of sales nowbeing taken at this price point, it is attractingmore brands and more competition, whichis great for retailer and consumer alike. Weare starting to move towards hopefully lessvolatile times,” he adds.

Having enjoyed an “outstanding” Basel,Leth Møller sensed that while UK retailerswere buying carefully, they were, in com-mon with agents and distributors – lookingout for new products and brands. “Theyknow they have to develop as retailers andconstantly present their customers withthe best and most interesting products;there’s still a lot of products to be boughtand money to be made,” he says. Thepositive vibes that he felt during theshow were sensed by most otherexhibitors, including Salter. “Theoverall mood was up, we saw a lotof first time clients and although

there were fewer innovations at the showthere was more of what the market needs –quality, clear value, long-term relevance andenduring product.”

His view is echoed by Ryder at Steerwell.“At times it felt like a British wartime mentality, where we are all pulling togetherin tough economic times,” he says. “The vastmajority of the UK was there in force andseemed to be spending, although the watch houses seemed to be conservativewith the 2012 product and there was notalk of a must-buy item from buyers acrossthe board.”

Key watch trends• classic looks • smaller dials and slimmer cases

for men• rose gold• vintage styling• ceramic still strong• a broad colour palette – for dials,

straps and details• green coming through• world timers• military (particularly aviation) styling

and functions• mixed materials• interesting styling – enamel,

marquetry etc• ‘boyfriend’ v. petite & feminine

for women’s models• chronographs for women

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Something for the girlsThere was however a category that appearedon the wish list of most buyers: timepiecesfor women. “The demand for ladies’ watchesis soaring,” confirms Duckworth of Veritimewhich distributes Philip Watch as well ascouture designer brands Christian Lacroixand Nina Ricci. “And they must be designedfor women and not just scaled-down versionsof men’s styles,” he adds.

Whereas once a feature on watches wouldhave been weighted heavily towards toys

for the boys, with an also-ran paragraph onwomen’s watches, there’s now call for a bitof a shift in the other direction. Not completely of course, but there’s a strongsense that many brands – particularly thosetraditional makers whose heritage has hitherto been of a more male-dominatednature – are taking more consideration of the steadily growing women’s market.

Which doesn’t simply mean a sprinkling ofdiamonds or crystals and a jaunty colourpalette (though that too) but also a recognition that some female customers aretaking watches as seriously as the men are…well, almost, and it’s a question of keepingthem satisfied with the right products.

“As with the majority of Swiss manufacturersand producers, it is our view that we havebeen concentrating too much on the malemarket as more men become watch collectors,” admits McGillivray. “Women buy(or have purchased) watches which areeither strictly functional or a jewellery piecewith a time-keeping element. The market isopen for a sensibly priced, feminine designedcollection to cater for self-purchasing, decision-making women. Edox understandsthis and is currently producing collections tocater for this potential void in the market.”

“We are definitely trying to improve ouroffer to ladies as there really is a gap in thewomen’s market in the £700 to £2,500price point,” says Lefevre. This year Maurice

| Watch Feature


The market is open for asensibly priced, femininedesigned collection to cater for self-purchasing,decision-making women.

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Lacroix has relaunched the Miros line of elegant sports watches for men and women,including some chronograph models as wellas simple three-handed diamond set styles.At Bering, which set out to create a fifty-fiftysplit of male to female models, is now finding that its ladies’ watches accounts fornearer 60 per cent of sales. And far frombeing scaled-down men’s styles, they havebeen designed “from scratch, with focus onfeeling and design,” says Leth Møller.

The jury is still out on whether women are seduced by form or function – i.e. complications and technology – but it’stending to fall on the side of looks. “I stillbelieve that we men are more ‘gadget freaks’than women, who are more interested inform, colour and design,” says Leth Møller.When it comes to fashion brands Veritime’sDuckworth agrees. “However, I believe thatin the high end, many brands would benefitby offering mechanical versions of theirladies’ watches – not just quartz models”

“Women do tend to buy more for stylethan complications,” explains Walsh at

Laings, “but I believe the more exclusivebrands do need to develop their femaleproduct.” Aurum’s Toulson agrees that thewatch as an accessory is a strong seller, butlooks, increasingly, are not everything. “Atthe top end of the market, brands like PatekPhilippe have introduced their first perpetualcalendar for women – a recognition thatwomen now have more of an interest in thetechnical aspect of watches, rather thansimply the aesthetics,” he says.

Having been focused on the men’s market, this year marks the introduction ofBremont’s first watch designed to appeal toboth sexes – the Solo 37mm. “We certainly

get asked more and more for a mechanicalwatch that is suited to women – hopefullythis is it!” says co-founder Nick English. “I think there is a growing interest in theromanticism of wearing a mechanical watchand now ladies are starting to catch up [onthis idea] with men. These watches are morethan just a device for telling the time – theyare a statement about who you are as a person. I think this market will only grow.”

Another British brand, Kennett, whichlaunched in 2009, has introduced its firstmodel for the female market. At 34mm, theLady Savro Chronograph is a scaled-downversion of the original Savro and features arose gold 316 stainless steel case, with aSwarovski crystal-adorned mother of pearldial. Each quarter this year Tom Kennett plansto bring out another ladies’ model includinga version of the ceramic Altitude watch.

There are also such developments at themore affordable end of the ‘power watch’brand market – Citizen has noticed thatwomen are interested in technical innovationsand therefore is building on this demand,according to brand director Mark Robinson.

| Watch Feature


The watch market overview according to EuromonitorSales of watches have been growing at a slower rate in recent years, a result of long-termdemographic shifts and changes in patterns of timekeeping and exacerbated by therecent economic downturn. Although watches are more ‘functional’ than jewellery, thevalue of watches relative to their function is based almost entirely on their ‘luxury’ value,and in tough times the expense of a watch might be considered unnecessary and some-what indulgent by most consumers.

Over the forecast period, value sales of watches are projected to grow at a compoundannual growth rate of 2.3%, reaching more than £1.6 billion in 2014. This moderate growthis a result of the effects of the global recession that are expected to linger over the nextseveral years. The watches subsector is, to some extent, similar to jewellery in that thereis something of a lag in expenditure patterns, meaning that consumers are not expectedto purchase new watches until they are more confident about their financial situations.

These [mechanical] watches are more than just a device for telling the time – they are a statement about who you are as a person.

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And at Bulova they are also experiencing agrowing trend for technology in women’swatches. “We have seen an increase indemand for both our ladies Precisionist andMechanical watches over the past 12months,” says product marketing managerLiam McAllister, “but even though importantto women, design and style are still the mainreasons for purchase.”

On trendPresumably even those whose mainrequirements of a timepiece are maximumprecision and the most cutting-edge ofinnovations must care about looks to some

extent; appearance matters. As has beenpointed out, the need for consistency andplaying it a little safe has meant fewer dramatic developments for 2012, from astyle as well as a technology point of view,but at the same time there is enthusiasm forcertain trends to continue. While the fashiondesigner brands are cornering the market in explosions of colour, mixed materials, textures and unusual highlight details, themore serious/traditional end of the marketis letting nuance (as well as the expectedquality, precision and heritage) tell the story.

Large cases and dials are still around, butthey are much less extreme than they havebeen in the past – there’s a feeling forneater, slimmer watches, particularly for men.This in turn leads to a more retrospectivelook, with classic, simple dials and indexesas well as traditional straps and bracelets.

For ladies, conversely, the larger ‘boyfriend’size watch is still popular, whether for classicstyles or more meaty chronograph models,sporty styles and even quite masculine looks,such as Bell & Ross’s aviation timepieces,which come with slightly smaller cases anddiamonds on the black ceramic for a morefemale touch. However, as a wardrobe ofwatches is increasingly desired – by womenas well as men – so too are neater, petite,more truly feminine watches, as RoyalLondon is finding.

So, whether from a choice of brands orchoice of design point of view, financial

downturn or not, the scope for moving forward and for development in the watchmarket is there… in spades. As Leth Møllersays: “In a storm do you build trenches orwindmills? I think the UK retailers know theywill benefit from building windmills.” �

| Watch Feature



Watch Feature |

Over the past five years the pre-ownedhigh-end watch market has really taken

off; the scale of the market has genuinelytaken me by surprise.” Anyone who haspassed the BQ Watch stand at a jewellerytrade fair would have to agree that Ian Shafferis right – there’s a lot of interest in oldwatches, and it’s probably getting stronger.“I always knew there was a healthy marketfor pre-owned luxury watches, especially Rolexmodels, but since the financial crisis startedto bite hard across the world, it has grownat an almost frightening pace,” he adds.

When Shaffer first started about sevenyears ago, he and his younger partnersSpencer Dryer and Andrew Lazarus had justone phone and a shelf as their office. Nowthey employ around 10 permanent staff inthe UK, plus a further six on a consultancybasis around Europe. Recently the companymoved into a new, state-of-the-art showroomin Edgware, North London that comes complete with its own fully equipped workshop staffed by craftsmen who refur-bish and repair watches.

“To give you some idea of the scale of thebusiness we now have teams of expertsconstantly travelling to countries such asBelgium, Luxembourg, Germany, Cyprus,Portugal, Sweden, Holland and Finland. Wehave even established an office in Antwerp,”says Shaffer.

“Our buying teams are out of the countryfor about 45 weeks of the year, and still westruggle to purchase sufficient stock to caterfor the demand. In the last year our turnoverhas increased by 40 per cent, compared tothe previous 12 months, which was itself arecord year. From that phone and shelf BQWatches is now a multi-million poundturnover business – in less than a decade.That’s how active this market is right now.”

So Shaffer probably isn’t living the quietlife that he imagined when he started. The

business was intended as a way to easehimself into retirement, after spending over40 years in the jewellery and pawnbrokingbusiness. “I thought it was time to take thingseasy and enjoy my life-long hobby. Eversince I was a young child watches, especiallyquality brands have always fascinated me.While my school friends were off playing, I would be fixing up, and selling-on brokentimepieces,” he explains.

Perhaps unsurprisingly round 70 per centof his business is for Rolex models – themost popular model being the Datejust insteel and gold, followed by the SubmarinerDate, the Yachtmaster then the GMT Master,all in steel. The remainder of interest is forOmega models followed closely by Breitling,Cartier, Patek Philippe and IWC.

The company purchases watches in anycondition from a wide range of sources –mainly the general public and specialist collectors – but recently it has been encour-aging its trade customers and jewellers toconsider buying in pre-owned watches as ameans to improve their cash flow.

“By offering this additional service to theircustomers they can keep in contact with themand make some good financial returns,” hesays. “As a former jewellery retailer I know itworks. It doesn’t matter whether the watchesare broken or not, we can restore them tooriginal factory condition, and return themcomplete with a two year guarantee. They

don’t even have to know much about thewatches. Our experts are on hand 24/7 tooffer professional advice. However, if wequote a jeweller a price over the phone,email or Skype we will stick to that even if itturns out to be not what we thought it was.The retailer can’t lose out.”

Added to this, if retailers buy from BQ andthe watches don’t sell, BQ offer to buy themback at a minimum of 95 per cent of thepurchase price. “But with the way the watch

market is right now, many retailers wishingto return stock purchased over a year agocould actually make a small profit. So theynever need be stuck with stock they can’tsell,” he adds.

Clearly the financial crisis has impactedgreatly on the pre-owned watch market.“Although many people have not had themoney available to buy new, they still wantto invest in a quality jewellery item; they cando that with pre-owned watches,” saysShaffer. He explains that new Rolex prices,for example, have increased far more thanthe cost of second-hand models over thepast few years. “In fact a pre-owned modelcan be retailed for around half the cost of anew model and as the styles have changedlittle over the years, they look the same.Plus, many specialist collectors believe theolder models are of superior quality andworkmanship and are therefore the betterbargain. And they are probably right in theirthinking,” he adds.

“I should point out that pre-owned makes,especially Rolex, hold their value really well.Savvy customers know this and I think thatis a major reason why there has been somuch interest in the past couple of years.”

Brand ProfileBQ Watches

Ian Shaffer, director of sales at BQ Watches describes the growing appeal of pre-owned timepieces

“

Jewellerthe

picks...If you’re looking for watches pitched at the younger market or atthose who have an eye for fashion brands and on-trend styling –at an accessible price – here’s a selection of the 2012 collections.

AVIO MILANOSince 1853 Ltd has launched four new watch brands into the UK. AVIO Milano, Boxer Milano,Montres De Luxe and Byblos are all Italian designed (by watch designer Fulvio Locci) andevery single watch offers its own unique features and design. Combined with strong stylingand superior build quality are either Swiss or Miyota movements. Features include 316Lstainless steel cases, rubberised leather straps, PVD finishing, luminescent indexes and handsand many other features. RRP are from around £95 to £700. www.since1953ltd.co.uk

MYKONOS (TIDE)Funky styling and affordable prices are behindthe success of Italian fashion accessorywatch brand Mykonos, which is now beingdistributed in the UK through Tide. Whilethere are models to suit a more formal orminimalist mood, the emphasis is on thecontemporary and unusual, with LED stylesas well as a watch that allows the wearer to attach his or her Facebook relationshipstatus to the strap. Tel: 0191 587 9835

MICHELELuxury diamond watch brand Michele haslaunched the Serein collection, inspired bythe curves and polished surfaces of graniteriver rocks. The elliptical case is adornedwith 100 hand-set diamonds with circularpatterns of of fine lines on the dial whichfeatures strong Roman indexes.Tel: 08444 123 277

GUESS WATCHESAn advanced plating process has been specially developed by Guess Watches tocreate a bold new look for its Fierce collection.Created from a resin material with glitterdetail the four animal print models (frombronze and gold tones through to silver/gunmetal ‘snow leopard’) also feature a topring of crystal accents. www.sequel-uk.com

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LINKS OF LONDONAlthough Links’ female customers still enjoy the oversized men’s models, there is also agrowing demand for more feminine styles featuring stones. These Effervescence watches arenew this year and have been designed to match the bracelets in Links’ jewellery collection– ideal for the stacking trend. For men, motorcar racing is the inspiration behind the newChicane watch. www.linksoflondon.com

VIVIENNE WESTWOOD (ZEON)While this iconic designer brand is heavilyweighted towards the female market, thereis a growing demand for more gents’ styles.However, this must be taken in the contextthat female customers are continuing towear larger cased watches. Rose gold andceramic are important elements of the newcollection, as well as quirkier details such astartan and the Union Jack. Tel: 020 8208 1833

KELLY ROWLAND AT TW STEELKelly Rowland, worldwide ambassador forTW Steel, has launched her own CEO Techspecial edition timepieces. The singer’s loveof distinct styling, together with her favouritecolours pink and blue, have created visuallystriking models, one featuring a mother ofpearl dial with a zirconia baguette-set bezel,the other with sunray blue dial and blue CZbaguettes. Both models carry Kelly’s signatureon the back case. www.twsteel.com

FOSSILFossil’s A/W 2012 collection pays homageto the timeless classics of the past – theelegant silhouettes of the ’20s and ’30s;aviation and vintage workwear for a rugged,casual feel; mixed materials, including wood and black-on-black for an old-meets-new look. Tel: 08444 123 277

TATEOSSIANThe Skeleton Watch is one of four new linesadded to Tateossian’s collection this year.The exposed face reveals the intricatejapanese movement. Most of the brand’swatches are unisex – particularly the casesince the trend for women wearing biggerwatches continues. Other strong sellers areall-black styles with fluorescent highlightsand the ultra-slim Carbon model.www.tateossian.com

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SIMON CARTERAfter almost a decade menswear designerSimon Carter has expanded his watch andjewellery collection to include ladies’ watches.Taking inspiration from his design archive,the 2012 collection features classic, pared-down, almost masculine looks, housed inon-trend oversized cases. The watches areavailable with either chronograph or time-only functions and come with stitched leatherstraps in black, chocolate or midnight blue.Tel: 020 8683 4475

EMPORIO ARMANINew Retro is a modern interpretation ofclassics, with inspiration for the watchescoming from vintage models: convex glass,vertical counters for chronographs and metalmesh straps for instance… Also importantare two-tone looks: yellow gold and rosegold together with stainless steel.Tel: 08444 123 277

A.B.ARTFor men’s watches, big and bold are still strong sellers at a.b.art – the 44mm dial with a darkface being particularly key. For women, having a choice of colour is important, with the brightershades such as orange, pink and purple being favourites. www.abart-uk.com

SWAROVSKIThis black faceted ceramic watch from thePiazza Grande collection is from Swarovski’snew men’s line of timepieces, the companyhaving previously concentrated on women’smodels. The use of crystal as well as facetingtechniques, is obviously central to the rangesand together with masculine materials likemetal, rubber and leather, allows many ofthe styles to be quite androgynous.www.swarvovski.com

DKNYInspired by New York City’s ‘canyons ofglass and concrete’ the new DKNY line usesgrey to create a luxury, yet sporty, feel. Forwomen the warm neutral is blended withgold, while for men black and white createsa more graphic look. Also for women is fauxtortoiseshell, mixed with grey and clearstones for a feminine edge.Tel: 08444 123 277

RADLEY (PEERS HARDY GROUP)This dedicated ladies’ brand offers a choiceof larger ‘boyfriend’, sporty models, but itsfoundations are in the more delicate, vintagelook. The British brand is also demonstratingthe trend for mixed materials – such asplastic, stainless steel and aluminium, withrose gold being a strong favourite.www.peershardy.co.uk

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Introducing what promises to be the hottest launch event ofthe season: an exclusive two day trade-only exhibition will takeplace on 12th-13th June at one of London’s most iconic buildings– Somerset House. It’s a unique and inspiring location for whatexhibitors and organisers alike hope will be an equally uniqueand inspiring first show.

The intimate and opulent surroundings will play host to a carefully selected collection of 90of the leading UK and international designers, suppliers and brands. It should be an enticingmix of the most sought-after established names as well as exciting new talent. The timing ofthe show is no accident having been perfectly placed for the start of the busy Christmas2012 and Spring 2013 trading periods. Here are some of the BJA members exhibiting…

| BJA Feature


The Jewellery Show London

Erica Sharpe Fine JewelleryAs a licence holder of Fairtrade and Fairminedgold, and specialist in commission work,Erica Sharpe will be showcasing her uniqueindividual pieces which feature unusualgemstones and gold granulation work. Shewill also exhibit her beautiful and delicate‘Stella’ collection, inspired by Alpine flowersand the stunning Kerensa collection whichfeatures precious metals and gemstoneswrought with Cornish tin. Pictured is aKerensa double wave and shore ring in18ct yellow and white gold RRP £2,350Tel: 01934 710448 www.ericasharpe.co.uk Zarafa Designs

This bespoke collection is designed andhandcrafted in silver at Zafara’s studio inHemel Hempstead in limited editions with each piece being unique. Delivery isnormally between two and three weeksfrom the time of order; all works are hallmarked at the London Assay Office andcan be supplied in Zarafa Designs packagingif required. This is an Ammonite Collectioncollar made with fine silver discs, citrine CZ,triple chain on a tube clasp. RRP £286 Tel: 07947137571www.zarafadesigns.com

PomegranateThese unique faceted florite ‘Slice’ earringsare made in India completely by hand,ensuring that each pair is entirely individual.The delicate, open settings showcase thesebeautiful blue-green stones, which are theperfect addition to a Summer wardrobe.RRP £295. Tel: 020 7937 9735www.pomegranate-london.co.uk

Perfection Jewellery Ltd With a minimal investment, jewellery retailerscan become exclusive Perfection Bridalagents by stocking Perfection’s high qualityrhodium-plated silver and CZ samples whichwill be priced up in the window as 18ct goldand diamond. The package includes a freedisplay stand and a quantity of personalisedflyers containing shop details to give awayto customers. The company appoints onlyone agent for each area, so come early toavoid disappointment. Tel: 020 8519 5999www.perfectionbridal.info

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BJA Feature |

Rachel GalleyThe ‘Diamond Globes’ are created to celebrate the Diamond Jubilee and followon from Rachel Galley’s best selling rangethe ‘Memento Globe’. The luxurious 18ctgold pieces feature full pave around theentire spheres creating beautiful movementand light from the diamonds. From 0.8ct toover 4ct of diamonds these pieces are veryspecial indeed. RRP From £2,500Tel: 020 7242 4332 www.rachelgalley.com

Loose Gemstones – RM ShahA selection of beautiful Zambian emeraldscut by artisans in Jaipur, India, from R MShah’s collection of fine gemstones.Tel: 020 7405 2162 www.rmshahltd.co.uk

Solitaire Gemmological LaboratoriesSolitaire Gemmological Laboratories will be launching its full diamond report whichaims to give a comprehensive overview of a diamond’s features and plots any inclusionson a clearly illustrated graphic of the diamond.It will also identify any enhancements thathave been made to a diamond’s claritythrough laser drilling or fracture filling.

The diamond’s facets and dimensions arescanned using specialist hardware and arepresented in a clear, concise and aesthetically

pleasing manner. Tel: 020 3176 4270www.solitaire-labs.com

Some interesting services can also be found at the Somerset House show:

Gemex2011 UK Jewellery Award winner for best platinum bridal collection, Gemex, will be showcasing no fewer than 1,500 diamond set bridal wedding and engagement rings, all setwith a minimum F/G VS grade. “Come to stand WS14 to see why the Raphael Collection by Gemex is the leading bridal collection in the country,” says Lee Ruben. Rings RRP from£575 Tel: 020 7242 1080 www.theraphaelcollection.com

ClogauMarking the 60th anniversary of the accession of Queen Elizabeth II to the throne,the commemorative 9ct yellow and rosegold Royal Jubilee pendant is inspired bythe Crown Regalia and has been speciallycreated by Clogau in association with HistoricRoyal Palaces, for 2012.

Containing a touch of rare Welsh gold,and adorned with seven diamonds, theRoyal Jubilee pendant provides a beautifullyhandcrafted piece of fine jewellery to markthis special Royal occasion. RRP £840.Tel: 0845 606 8877 www.clogau.co.uk

Outstanding Cufflink Designs LtdThe integral design of the ‘Volte’ cufflink hasevolved from an exploration of form andfunction. This three dimensional sculpturalpiece is a signature of Lee Graham’s distinctive creative style and the design wona silver award in the 2011 Goldsmiths CraftCouncil Competition. Shown here is a cufflinkin sterling silver, with black ruthenium plating.RRP £395 Tel: 07955 060 100www.outstandingcufflinkdesigns.co.uk

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Having quickly built up a reputation for introducing cutting edge designers to the designsavvy consumer, the Treasure show has taken place in some interesting venues in the

capital. From the Tower of London to the old flower market in Covent Garden and morerecently Bloomsbury Square Holborn, the public has been treated to over 80 contemporarydesigner jewellers in one venue. This year it arrives at Somerset House from 14th-17th June,this time with more than 150 designers taking part!

“We are delighted that Treasure is now at such an iconic venue as Somerset House during 2012, and look forward to seeing the show continue to grow with both internationaldesigners and visitors, as well as continuing our support for emerging designers,” says DellaTinsley, the show director.

One of the major changes for 2012 has been the selection process both UK and international designers have participated in – jeweller Elizabeth Galton, jewellery retailerNathalie Kabiri and Tinsley herself making up the panel. Galton has also edited the show andthe exhibition will be split into seven main areas: Fashion Gallery; Design Gallery; FineJewellery Gallery; Emerge – New Jeweller Gallery; Essence – Ethical Jewellery Gallery;Waterside Studios and Boutiques for the larger companies.

| BJA Feature


Treasure

Sarah Eyton“I work mainly with perspex and preciousmetals and am delighted this show will befocused on unusual design,” says Sarah.The ‘Constellation’ cuff is a special editionas each one is unique. The surface is a mattfrosted black and the Swarovski crystals areembedded so they shimmer and shine.RRP £85. Tel: 07815 310 969www.saraheytondesigns.co.uk

Fiona HutchinsonFiona will show during Jewellery Week for the first time and can be found in the Emerge –New Jeweller Gallery. Being a qualified gemmologist has a strong influence on her work andgems are included in all her collections. Inspired by the Queen’s Diamond Jubilee herEnglish Rose pendant is crafted in silver, each with a stamen inset with a coloured gem.“These pieces are eye-catching yet easy to wear and no two pieces are ever the same. I amso pleased that TV presenter Clare Balding will be wearing one of these necklaces at Ascotthis month”, she added. The ‘English Rose’ is available on a variety of necklaces includingstrings of freshwater pearls or gem stone beads in matching or complementary hues. RRP £528. Tel: 07970 368800 www.fionahutchinson.co.uk

Malcolm MorrisMalcolm Morris in the Design Gallery pointsout that “more and more people are interested in buying jewellery direct fromthe designer with information and details ofhow things are made, which makes it amuch more enjoyable experience. As adesigner maker I am often creating jewelleryalone in my studio so Treasure provides mewith a fantastic platform to meet the public,get important feedback and sell jewellery topeople who will hopefully remember thatpersonal contact.” Set of 3 oxidized silverrings with red enamel by Malcolm Morris.RRP £630. Tel: 020 8521 4984 www.malcolm-morris.com

Linnie McLarty“I’m really looking forward to showcasingmy new collections in the Essence Pavilion.It’s a fantastic venue, renowned for its artand cultural connections, and with a historyof some of the best jewellery shows around.”says Linnie who was one of the firstlicensees for Fairtrade Fairmined gold whenit launched last year. Along with Fairtradegold she works on 100 per cent recycledsilver and responsibly sourced gemstones.The quirkily named ‘jealous, much?’ ring in100 per cent recycled silver with 18ct gold‘eco-plating’. RRP £288. Tel: 07811 022560www.linniemclarty.com

CredThe fairtrade jewellers CRED, as well asexhibiting many new collections, is curatingEssence which will be showcasing ethicaljewellers. “We have been working with MA design students at John Cass who aredesigning the space and creating ethicalmens jewellery collections; the winner willhave their pieces put into production to besold through CRED,” explains Niki Clark. Cred’sJubilee rings recycled silver with ethicalgemstones from Brazil. RRP £200 each.Tel: 01243 773588 www.credjewellery.com

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| BJA Feature


The Goldsmiths Company Pavilion

Running from 13th-17th June, the Goldsmiths’ Company Pavilion, a contemporary jewellerysummer selling exhibition, is set to be one of the highlights of the season as it will showcase

80 of the most exciting independent designer-makers in the UK. It will take place in thenewly refurbished East Wing of Somerset House, a spectacular neo-classical building andone of London’s architectural gems – the perfect venue for a dazzling show of spectaculardesign-focused jewellery.

The Goldsmiths’ Company Pavilion is all about stunning cutting-edge creations with stand-out vibrant and colourful pieces. In addition to the excellent fine jewellers working in gold,silver and platinum – considered to be the signature of the Goldsmiths’ Company – visitorscan expect to see jewellers making use of a range of supplementary materials including:Perspex, resin, Whitby jet, recycled materials and other surprising elements.

The event is designed to appeal to avid collectors from around the world, luxury fashionshoppers, art enthusiasts, jewellery obsessive’s, high-end design aficionados, tourists in Londonfor the cultural season and anyone with an emotional (or business) connection to jewellery. Tomasz Donocik

Tomasz is looking forward to the new showand comments that “this year’s venue, alandmark on the map of London, has theadvantage of being strongly associated withLondon Fashion Week and the fashionscene”. Inspired by the paradox of the natural world the ‘Garden of Good & Evil’has achieved international success in thefashion luxury market. Venus Fly Trap ringRRP £5,500. Tel: 07916 332036www.tomaszdonocik.com

Lilly Hastedt“I am so happy to have been selected toparticipate at this first time event for theGoldsmiths Company at this lovely location,”says designer and Old Church Street boutique owner Lilly Hastedt. Snowflakeearrings RRP £5,800. 020 3055 0166www.lillyhastedt.com

Amy Keeper“I’m very excited to be taking part in Goldsmith’s Pavilion. Exhibiting with Goldsmith’s will bean absolute honour and Somerset House is one of my favourite places in London so itshould be a lovely experience. I will be showing some new pieces to both of my collections,”says designer Amy Keeper. Her ‘Kiss’ bracelet made in sterling silver, photo-etched withimages from vintage postcards and oxidised. RRP £370. Tel: 07989 744869www.amykeeperewellery.co.uk

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Day CDaisy is debuting with the Goldsmiths’Company and is thrilled to have been chosen:“I will be showing my wearable yet playfuland meaningful designs to full effect at thisshow, especially my egg collection whichhas been revisited and refreshed,” explainsdesigner Daisy Choi. 3cm half egg-shapedrose gold ring with south sea pearl RRP£375. Tel: 07919 272058 www.dayc.co.uk

Josef Koppmann“I am delighted to be able to take part for the first time at this show,” says Josef,designer and OXO Tower retailer. “The hugeline-up of independent designer makers inthe marvellous surroundings of SomersetHouse will most certainly capture the publicimagination and ensure that this is a must-see exhibition.” Silver and 24 carat gold ringwith aquamarine RRP on request. Tel: 0207928 6252 www.josefkoppmann.com

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| Opinion: Nicholas Major


Had you held other posts within the NAGbefore becoming chairman?Yes – I was on the Council first of all, thenbecame a member of the RegisteredValuers Committee, a director, RV chairman,then vice-chairman of the Association.

Has your shop been a member of the NAGsince your father’s time and did he holdany particular roles in the Association?Yes it was and also before that – in mygrandfather’s day. Sadly neither of themheld any particular roles in the Associationbut they were always staunch supporters andbelievers in good ethics, professionalism andhigh standards.

When you accepted the position whatdid you hope to bring to the role? Whatare the qualities required of a chairman?I hoped to be able to at least maintain thehigh standards set by my predecessors. Mykey qualities are probably my enthusiasm,passion for the industry and loyalty. They haveall assisted me to promote the NAG at everypossible opportunity. I feel a chairman needsa good knowledge of our industry, be ableto maintain confidentiality and be preparedto give total commitment. It is also a greathelp that when you come across somethingyou do not know sufficiently enough aboutthat you ‘know a man that does’!

Did you have any concerns about thetime that being chairman might take up– taking you away from your day job? I did, but having already experienced theposition of chairman of the RV Committee,I was a little prepared for the challengesahead. Fortunately I have received greatsupport from my family, staff, fellow directorsand all involved with the NAG – members

and employees alike. I am very grateful toeveryone for this support and allowing methe great privilege of being the chairman.

What would you say have been the highlights of the past two years?I am delighted to say these have been toonumerous to mention, but to name some:the annual dinners of the Retail Jewellers of Ireland and the Yorkshire Centre; the cel-ebration of the London Assay Office; TheTrial of the Pyx; Pewter Live; the NAG’s ownEducation Awards; the launch of theDiamond Jubilee Mark at Goldsmiths’ Hall;the opening of the Goldsmiths’ Centre andof course all of our own meetings.

The people I have met have been amazing.I have been so fortunate in getting to knowa multitude of famous, knowledgeable andinteresting characters within our trade aswell as many students and people startingtheir careers. To name drop, I have also hadthe great pleasure of meeting HRH PrincessAlexandra, the Queen’s Remembrancer, theCity’s Remembrancer and George Osborne!

Are there any actions left undone thatyou would have liked to have seen com-pleted before you hand the chain ofoffice over – either by you or by others?There must always be something that needsto be done in any healthy organisation.Although I will shortly no longer be chairman,I hope to still be actively involved with thework in progress and with any other forth-coming matters thus contributing whereverpossible to the NAG.

What are the main concerns that facejewellery retailers currently?I think security must be one of the primeconcerns and I hope as many members as

possible will attend our security conferencemeeting on 16th October in Watford whichwill cover this topic at great length andwhich promises to be a most important daynone of us should miss. Others issues thatmatter greatly are: maintaining our high UKstandards; education; the promotion of ourIRV to both the insurance industry and thegeneral public as well as trying to addressthe decline of the High Street. Mary Portasmight have started this last job but I amconvinced we need to promote some of theanswers. Our last Council meeting held atthe Goldsmiths’ Centre certainly stimulatedus and gave us many ideas.

In 2004 Jonathan Lambert said that histheme for 2005 was “lifelong learning” –would you say you had a particular ‘theme’or ‘message’ during your two years?This I cannot answer in the singular as thereare several issues that have been my'theme'. I totally agree with Jonathan’s asthe great thing about our trade is, as myfather said to me, “you never stop learning”.My 'war horses' are many, but to name afew I would say: championing the need tomove with the times; promoting educationand professionalism; encouraging youngermembers to join in and participate andfinally, looking into how we can encompassthose businesses that are not currentlymembers so that we can represent ourretail industry as a whole.

What advice would you pass on to yoursuccessor?I have every confidence my successor,Pravin Pattni, will need no advice from meas he is more than qualified and capable.However, I would always be delighted toassist at any time if required.

Looking back at aMajor achievementAs NAG chairman Nicholas Major prepares to hand over hischain of office, we quiz him on his time on the top table andrequest a few words of wisdom on the jewellery industry today.

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Safergems UpdateHMRC imposters threaten storeOn Thursday 10th May 2012 a SaferGemsalert was sent out following a robbery at astore in Rochdale, Greater Manchester. Two men claiming to be from Her Majesty’sRevenue & Customs (HMRC) visited anAsian-owned jewellery store, stole £10,000worth of goods and threatened the victimswith a firearm.

Within five minutes of the alert going out,a SaferGems member in the Prestwich areaof Manchester reported to SaferGems thathe had that day received a telephone callfrom a person claiming to be from HMRC,who stated they were going to visit his store the following day. This informationwas passed directly to Greater ManchesterPolice which prevented a potentially seriousincident occurring.

Estonian gang jailedIt was gratifying to learn from a recent bulletin that an Estonian gang of eight who had carried out at least 150 armed robberies in Britain and Europe over a periodof seven years, have been jailed for a total

of 82 years. Berry’s in Leeds were targetedby the gang four times between 2005 and2007, while jewellers in Manchester,Newcastle Upon Tyne, Chester andWolverhampton were also victims of armed,daylight raids. In total they were estimatedto have made more than £2million from 11raids in Britain. The gang are thought tohave recruited their members by gettingthem into debt through drugs.

Bolton armed robbers sentencedThis April a team of armed robbers from theBolton area appeared at Preston CrownCourt for sentencing for their part in conspiring to commit three armed robberiesin Burnley and Bolton between February andMay 2011. All four were given significantprison terms. One target of the attacks was

Muzzafers’ Jewellers in Burnley which lost£30,000 of traditional Asian jewellery.

Back in early 2011 SaferGems circulatedan alert to its members advising them to beon the lookout for two men and a child whowere suspected of being involved in twoincidents that took place in the centre ofFarnham, Surrey. As a result of of intelligencecollected and collated by SaferGems, one ofthe two suspects, Marco Kivec, pleadedguilty to two offences of theft, at jewellers inHampshire and Surrey, while an older man,Puiu Horbas, was charged with jewellery-related offences dating back to 2009.

Giving a pat on the back for theSaferGems scheme, an officer in charge ofthis case said “Had it not been for the sup-port received from jewellers, who read theSaferGems alerts, the three males wouldnot have been detained and arrested… thespeed of information being passed back tothe officer in the case was very impressive.”

Successes by Fog Bandit…

Despite the alarming – and very regular –reports of attacks on jewellers’ businesses,it’s not all bad news. Physical deterrentsemployed by a growing number of retailersis a sign that we’re fighting back. Fog Bandit,which has foiled 15 jeweller robberies in thelast two years (with zero faults or injuries tostaff) reports on two recent successes:

In early August 2011, Sant Jewellers & Sonsin Southampton was attacked by two raiderswho smashed through the front entrance

WORKING TOGETHER TO SQUASH IT!While every month brings depressing news of raids on jewellerybusinesses, there have also been a number of recent crime-fighting successes. Indeed, the NAG’s SaferGems initiative continues to thwart crime on a daily basis – along with otherindustry products and services all designed to help preventcrime. Our overview of security issues here is vital reading for any jeweller wishing to stamp down hard on crime.

Since 2009 SaferGems has assisted jewellers and the policein over 500 cases by providing effective communication,thus helping to prevent jewellery theft and burglary.

For more details or to join SaferGems call 0845 272 7802


Security Feature |

and targeted the jewellery cabinets. Almostimmediately, the vigilant staff initiated thehigh speed security Fog Bandit device whichin two seconds projected a six metre blanketof visually impenetrable, yet harmless, fogacross the shop, screening the targeted display cabinets and forcing the raiders toturn and flee the shop, minimising the stockloss, shop damage and trauma to staff.

Ram Parkash Sunderdass & Sons Jewellerson The Broadway, Southall was saved fromattack by Fog Bandit last September 2011and the owner explained that “the voicewarning announcer did a great job in quicklydriving the raiders out of the shop, restrictingthe time and opportunity to target the jewellery and limiting our staff exposure tothis frightening experience”.

“We applaud the staff during both ofthese incidents for acting promptly in initiating the Fog Bandit and forcing theraiders to leave their shops,” says salesdirector Neil Chrismas. “These are furtherexamples of the clear deterrent message tothe criminal fraternity that targeting jewellerswho have a Fog Bandit system installed is a fruitless exercise and heightens the likelihood of being caught. We have nowinstalled 15 shops along The Broadway inSouthall, West London with the system.”Visit: www.bandituk.co.uk

…and Smoke ScreenAnother loss prevention system, Concept’sSmoke Screen, can also report on a few thwarted raids on jewellers recently.The thermally generated fog works by being confrontational, hiding goods andpeople and amplifying the robber’s biggestenemy … time.

Mahul Visram, proprietor of Ram Jewellerson Leicester’s Golden Mile, was the victim of a daylight raid in January: “I wasattending customers at the far end of thebusiness and we heard two large bangs. I took a peep and I saw raiders smashinginto the front door. We’ve had several incidents throughout the years, but this wasthe scariest one, because there weresledgehammers involved.”

Remaining calm he directed his staff and customers to safety. “We have a doorentry system and the glass in the door istough, but they still got inside,” he says.Once everyone was at the back of the store, Visram activated the Smoke Screen.“The smoke seemed to drive them awayand that was it. It was all over in maybe 10seconds. We just think that we had a lucky escape – the smoke prevented moredamage being done.”

Precious metal theft is not exclusive tothe UK – it’s a global phenomenon. Lastmonth a Smoke Screen successfully stoppeda daring raid on a jewellers in Hungary. Two young men attempted a smash andgrab in broad daylight on a busy main roadin full view of shoppers. After breaking anexternal window with a rock and grasping at the jewellery on display, they fled, frightened off by the Smoke Screen installedinside the store.

To find out more information on the fullrange of products, from the entry level tothe most powerful on the market, visit:www.smoke-screen.co.uk

ID criminals with Facewatch

The MetropolitanPolice is asking

the London publicfor help in identify-ing thousands ofimages relating tolow level crimesfrom across theCapital using anew App calledFacewatch id. Tohelp make identifi-cation extremely easy the images will bemade available via a unique mobile phone

App designed by Facewatch with imagessupplied by the MET Police. The App has already been responsible for the identification of 29 people in trials held overthe last two months.

The App will be available to users of allphones using BlackBerry, Apple (iphoneand ipad) or Android technology and provides a selection of unidentified imagesof people the police would like to talk towithin areas selected by distance from apostcode entered into the App by the user.If an image is known to the viewer theyhave the opportunity to take action and confidentially send information directly tothe police using the App. Facewatch id is now available to all police forces in theUK, a number of whom are lining up to sign up to it. Visit: www.facewatch.co.uk formore information.

Mobile payment securityWith consumer demand for mobile paymentsincreasing, SecureTrading, the UK’s leadingindependent payment processor has partnered with Delos Solutions to provideretailers with a secure and efficient methodto take mobile payments securely even ifthere is no 3G coverage or network avail-ability. The only requirement is that theretailer is equipped to provide the service.

SecureTrading is focused on enablingretailers to provide a seamless customerexperience so that consumers can buywhenever, wherever, and by whatevermeans they choose. The flexibility of thesystem means that it can be configured to meet each retailer’s individual needs. This enables retailers to adapt the system to reflect their own specific vision and sales strategy.

Critically, SecureTrading and the DelosMobile Payment System integrate with existing EPoS, removing capital outlay costsand the need for printed till receipts whileenhancing the customer experience. It iscompatible with other CRM and marketingsystems, allowing retailers to push their ownfully branded promotions, messages, andloyalty mechanisms straight to the customer’s mobile phone, all of which issupported by SecureTrading’s fully integratedpayment gateway. For more information, aswell as tips on reducing the threat of onlinefraud, visit: www.securetrading.com

Fog Bandit has foiled 15jeweller robberies in theUK in the last two years.

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| Security Feature


When people are experiencing serious economic hardship, opportunity crime seems tobecome more frequent. Complementary research conducted by economists also

indicated that non-violent property crimes (eg burglary and theft) are more likely to increaseduring an economic downturn than violent crimes.

Three psychosocial theories of human behaviour support the notion that when employeesexperience a turbulent economic downturn, they are at greater risk of engaging in employeecrime and deviance. Together these ideas give a very good picture of the impact the economymay have on employee crime and deviance.

(1) The Employee Risk Triangle Theory: a common-sensetheory of employee theft and deviance. Three forces causedeviant behaviour, such as employee theft and counter-pro-ductivity – need, opportunity and attitude. During an eco-nomic downturn the need for ‘on-the-job’ deviance for finan-cial gain is arguably higher. Retailers can minimise the oppor-tunity through physical security features such as CCTV, butthey most often overlook ’attitude’ – it is key to ensure youare not recruiting staff with counterproductive attitudes.

(2) The Stress Facilitation Theory: employees definitely experience more stress during economic downturns. When more dishonest employees experience heightened job stress, theyare more likely to think of stealing. Researchers have consistently documented that employeeswho endorse dishonest attitudes toward theft are reliably more likely to steal at work thanjob candidates and employees who endorse intolerant and punitive attitudes toward theft.

(3) The Social Disorder Theory: signs of disorder can lead to other broken social normsand resultant delinquent behaviours. When people see signs of disorder they are significantlymore likely, on average, to violate social norms and rules themselves. Last year’s riots is anobvious example. However, the same psychology relates in a retail environment. If employeessee others engaging in unacceptable behaviour they are more likely to do likewise.

Human resource professionals, risk managers, and loss control specialists are in unknownterritory when it comes to anticipating how this historic economic downturn will impact theirworkforces. However, the research shows that workplace crimes associated with employeedishonesty will increase during the current economic downturn and employees who possesstolerant attitudes toward employee theft and dishonesty are significantly more likely toengage in such deviant behaviours themselves than workers with the opposite view.

Research suggests that on average one-third of all employees are at risk of engaging insome degree of on-the-job theft and counter productivity. These dishonest employees aremore likely to commit on-the-job theft of cash, merchandise, and even time. In the digitalage they also have access to a wide range of electronic corporate assets including online cus-tomer data, credit/debit card numbers, and corporate records.

While retailers must swiftly adapt to the pressures of a weak economy, they also need toensure that the Employee Risk Triangle is managed. They also need to mitigate the adverseimpact of economy-related distress among their staff. One risk management programme thatfits across all three theoretical models is the ongoing use of pre-employment integrity teststo ensure that job candidates are properly screened for their attitudes toward job-relatedintegrity and ethics. It would be one less thing to worry about…

Low cost surveillance

Jabbakam is an online system for managingcamera networks. A camera is attached to

a router and a power source, pointed at aparticular space and then the user can loginto jabbakam.com to be up and running.The system can be set up to alert userswhen it detects motion, so if somethingoccurs when a shop is closed the proprietorwill get an alert and can log in and view thefootage immediately and report any crimeto the police swiftly.

Jabbakam allows camera owners to buildcollaborative networks with neighbouringretailers, groups or organisations to createcommunities, all sharing a commonresponsibility. This system also allows usersto view recorded footage remotely, on inter-net-connected PCs, laptops, smartphones orPDAs, with a secure platform that ensuresonly authorised network members can viewthe footage they have been given permissionto view. Visit: www.jabbakam.com

A clever key systemA testimonial by Stefan Leprowski,owner of Karol Marketing“When running your own business, securityis obviously a prime consideration, but thatdoesn’t have to mean carrying around hugebunches of keys all the time. When I decidedto install a Mul-T-Lock system in my home(to give us increased security after beingfeatured on Grand Designs!) it seemed logical to have the same system installedacross my office too, so I only ever need tocarry one key!

“The advantage of this patented key system is that keys can’t be copied withoutproof of ownership, meaning that if you givea key to a friend or member of staff, youknow that they are not getting copies made

Don’t let opportunity knock!Both the UK and global economies have yielded some of theworst financial performance since World War ll. Research conducted by sociologists, criminologists, and economistsshows that opportunistic crimes like theft and burglary increaseduring financial crises, warns Matthew Armstrong, businessmanager for GDIT HCM.

Risk

Need

Opportunity Attitude

The Employee Risk Triangle

WORKING TOGETHER TO SQUASH IT!

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FIFTEEN UK jewellery robberies foiled with ZERO failures!

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DON’T LET THIEVES

“Concept Smoke Screen have revolutionisedour approach to daytime raids and the resultshave been phenomenal.” - Aurum Holdings

CONCEPT SMOKE SCREEN CAN PROTECTYOUR VALUABLES IN UNDER 6 SECONDS!

GET AWAY WITH IT

“The smoke seemed to drive them away

and that was it. It was all over in

maybe 10 seconds. We just think that we

had a lucky escape, the smoke prevented

more damage being done.” - Ram Jewellers

CAN’T STEAL IT!

‘When the device goes off it absolutely fills the shop - you cannot see anything. We have seen they are effective.”- Belgrave Neighbourhood Policing Team

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Security Feature |

You may feel your shop is well protected against crime during the day – but what aboutovernight? In the light of last year’s riots and the continuing threat of break-in, it’s impor-

tant that jewellers ensure that they are well set up in terms of out-of-hours security.In reviewing the security you have in place to protect your stock and premises out-of-

hours, I always recommend working from the outside in. As a first port of call, examine thelocation. It’s important to review the perimeter and access points to ensure that your shopis not at risk. On that note, ensure you remove any bins, ladders and delivery crates thatcould be used as tools to gain access via windows or to break down doors.

One of the most cost-effective ways to bolster your external security is to work alongsideneighbouring businesses to pool funds and share resources. By joining forces you can dividethe cost of having good quality locking systems and secure external doors, grilles or fences.Lighting and CCTV can be installed throughout a row of shops so all outlets are protected.CCTV and dusk-to-dawn lighting in particular can act as deterrents as well as monitoring aids,which in turn helps create a good reputation for the area.

When considering how to protect your premises at night, sensor lights will reveal any sus-picious behaviour – and when used in conjunction with CCTV they can ensure that you havea record of all activity that has taken place outside your shop overnight. If you already haveCCTV installed, it’s worth calling out an expert to ensure it’s fully serviced.

In terms of window security, consider whether you want to install roller shutters. Obviouslyprotective grilles of this sort are the safest way to protect your stock and premises overnight.However, many jewellers want to take advantage of window shoppers and to leave certainitems lit and on display. If you decide to take this route, the key is to have reinforced glassinstalled to ensure you are adequately protected against attempted break-in.

It’s also particularly important to review the security of your doors. Ask a Master LocksmithsAssociation (MLA) vetted, inspected and qualified locksmith to come out and check that yourcurrent locks are adequate. They will be able to carry out a security audit at the same time,giving you overall peace of mind. The MLA has recently launched a new Diamond Standardfor cylinder locks, working alongside its testing and accreditation subsidiary company SoldSecure. All locks which meet this standard are protected against the lock bypass methodswhich have been recently used by criminals to force entry.

It is also worth bearing in mind how many copies of the keys to your shop might be in cir-culation. The MLA recommend that you use a patented system whereby keys can’t becopied without proof of ownership, meaning that nobody can make copies of your keys with-out your knowledge and gain access with a key out-of-hours.

In the event that an intruder does manage to break in, it’s imperative that your alarm systemis working correctly. When did you last change your alarm code? Could anyone have passedthis information on? The more people know the code, the more compromised the systembecomes. It’s worth getting a specialist in to test the alarm is in good working order.

Having stock that is beautiful and valuable is both a jeweller’s joy and their burden. Youmay want to maximise the opportunity to display stock out of hours, but if this strategy isadopted it must be backed up by storing the vast majority of valuable stock away in a safeovernight. Fortunately there are many excellent safe systems to choose from, but it’s importantto ensure that you select a safe which meets the right cash and valuables ratings for yourbusiness. To make sure that you choose the right safe for your needs consider taking expertadvice from an MLA-approved professional who will be able to ensure that it meets yourinsurance stipulations and recommend a company to provide third-party accreditation.

About the MLAThe MLA, a not-for-profit organisation, promotes standards of conduct, practice and materialswithin locksmithing. Visit www.locksmiths.co.uk for a list of approved MLA companies.

Security at nightDr Steffan George, development director of theMaster Locksmiths Association (MLA), underlinesthe key to out-of-hours security.

without your knowledge. It is particularlyimportant for jewellers, who have suchvaluable stock, to know exactly who hasaccess to the premises. The interactive CLIQsystem offers a perfect combination of atraditional key with an electromechanicallocking system. It allows access authorisationsto be controlled, individually programmingeach key and cylinder. Not only can you tellwhich member of staff has entered thepremises and when, this ‘audit trail’ canalso help catch a thief in the unfortunateevent of a key getting into the wrong hands.

“If you have a member of staff who nolonger works for you and fails to return theirkey, it can be easily cancelled through thecomputer, leaving your system just assecure as before.

“While I have the benefit of one key forhome and work, a jeweller can exploit thepossibilities of a Mul-T-Lock system still furtherand have it installed across all cabinets,stockrooms and showcases and masterkeyed to grant different levels of access.”

NAG/Retailer Security Conference

Underscoring the importance of securityissues to those in the jewellery industry,

the NAG has announced a special NAG/Retailer Security Conference, to take placeon 16th October, 2012. Held at the BuildingResearch Establishment in Watford, theinaugural event, which will be co-hosted byTH March and SaferGems, will compriseseminars from guest speakers, as well asinformation on security providers. For moredetails or to book a place contact IanFrancis at: [email protected]


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| Security Feature


General points of adviceAlways be aware of people hanging aroundand be suspicious of people in vehicles who could potentially be watching yourpremises. Look out for cars you’ve spottedpreviously, these could be possible robbers,checking out your shop.

Be alert for the unusual• People showing unreasonable interest

in security or staff numbers• Pointless or ill thought-out enquiries• Groups of people who would not

be expected to shop together• Persons asking to see high value

items who seem unlikely to be able to purchase them

• Nervous personsAlways check the identity of non-

customer visitors such as alarm engineersand surveyors. Take the time to call theorganisations they represent before allowing access.

Encourage your staff to think criticallyabout weakness in security and to discussthese with management. Keeping a record

of suspicious people, events or vehicles andtheir registrations will really help and a service like SaferGems is excellent for this.Your insurance broker is always on hand to answer any queries you may have.

Opening and closing proceduresThese are your most vulnerable times, soyou need to be prepared; at least two members of staff should be involved, andthe keys should be split as follows:• One member of staff should have a safe

key or knowledge of the combination,the other should have the premiseskeys and alarm key/code

• If a safe has more than one lockingsystem, implement dual control dividing the keys/code and combinations between staff

Make sure your entry and exit points arealways via the most public entrance – thefront of the premises is without questionthe best. It is worth considering time locksand time delay locks on safes and makesure opening and closing staff carry mobilepersonal attack alarms.

When opening the shop • The person with the premises and alarm

key/code should enter the premises,lock themselves in, disarm the alarmand check the entire premises to ensurethat intruders are not lying in wait

• A prearranged sign should be made bythe person on the premises to showthe person outside that entry is safe.The visual indicator should be changed frequently

• During this procedure the person withthe safe key should be standing clearof the premises but in a position toobserve as necessary

• If the prearranged signal is not givenyou should not investigate but shouldreport the circumstances to the police

• Once the sign has been given, the second person and other members of

staff may be admitted to the premisesDuring this time, care must be taken toensure that they are not being followedinto the premises. This should alsoinclude the first person watching them carefully during this time

• After entry, the door must be kept locked until dressing of the window has been completed. No one – even uniformed police or postmen – should be admitted unless they are particularly well-known to you and clearly seen as not being followed

At closing time• The opening procedure is reversed

with the door being locked and nocallers admitted until windows havebeen cleared and the safe relocked

Strategies for riskavoidance at workWhile no-one can say if and when an attack will happen, it ispossible to do a great deal to prevent it, as Neil McFarlane ofTH March insurance brokers explains.

No one – even uniformedpolice or postmen – shouldbe admitted unless they areparticularly well-known toyou and clearly seen as not being followed


Offer to escort sales reps to and from their vehicles


Security Feature |

• The person with the safe key shouldthen depart the building and remain at a distant vantage point until they see the other key holders leave thepremises safely having set the alarm

While open for business • Window backs and internal showcases

must have keys which cannot easily be duplicated or purchased from ahardware store. They should be carriedby each member of staff, not hung on a convenient hook

• Window backs and internal showcasesmust be relocked immediately after an item of pad is removed

• Pads should not be passed to a customer for inspection; remove thearticle the customer wishes to inspectand place the pad out of reach underthe counter while an item is discussedand avoid having more than one pad in reach at any one time

• Show high value goods as far away fromthe door as possible and preferablyonly one piece at a time. Be particularly

cautious when staff numbers aredepleted e.g. lunchtime, illness or holidays. Stagger lunchtimes and use an electric lock in the entry dooreven if you do not normally do so

• Personal attack alarm buttons shouldbe situated where they can be usedunobtrusively and mobile personalattack alarms are recommended. Avoid inspecting manufacturers’ ranges in the public area of the shop.Offer to escort reps to their cars

Suspicious personsMost armed robbers do not allow time foryou to act on suspicions, but if you are suspicious of persons in your shop:• Alert colleagues with a prearranged

but innocuous phase• Depending on the number of staff

available, one should move to the door to deter an unarmed snatch

• Other staff should be alert for snatches, switches or pilferage

• Use excuses to avoid showing high value items

• Always consider notifying SaferGems �

Throughout history – most particularly, thehistory of Europe – significant events

have been shaped largely through violence,oppression and conflict of one kind oranother. Though it is, perhaps, depressing to think of it this way, it is through the consequent movement of people andreshaping of society that some of our most interesting political, social and evenaesthetic ideas have been born.

This would certainly be true in the case ofthe Huguenots whose contributions to thegold and silversmithing around the world faroutweigh in significance their size as a people.

The backgroundThe England that was left at the end of thebrutal and bloody Civil War was one inwhich silver as a commodity was terriblyscarce. This was caused by a number of the(aforementioned) conflicts and disruptiveevents in times gone by. The first of thesewas the enthusiastic looting of his violently-won territories by William the Conqueror, inwhich a great deal of plate was melteddown. Further depletion of the nation’s silverstock followed with the War of the Roses inthe 15th Century; a series of compulsoryloans made to Tudor and Stuart monarchs –

in particular the ever-greedy Henry VIII; that same monarch’s dissolution of themonasteries, in which all the monastic silverwas seized, and finally the Civil War itself,when desperate armies on both sides melteddown any silver they could seize to helpwith their chronic lack of battle funds.

The situation was dire – very little silverremained, and the standing of silver craftsmen themselves was diminished. Withlong client lists of nobles and rich merchantskeen to replenish their silver stocks and apoor supply of silver with which to work,

many goldsmiths had resorted to cuttingcorners – the effect on their reputation was inevitable.

As the silver historian John Luddingtonput it, “how things would have turned out isanyone’s guess”. It was, as it turned out,thanks to one single political act – in Franceof all places – that the future of English silverwas altered: and that act was the revocationof the Edict of Nantes in 1685.

The Edict was a law created in April 1598 by the French King Henry IV. In what was then a Catholic country, the Edict gave permission for Protestant people – who wereknown as Huguenots and then estimated tonumber around 800,000 – to live and work in France. In essence, it was a well-intentioned attempt by the King to securesafe standing and some civil rights for this maligned group and to create socialharmony between the Catholic majority and

AntiqueJ E W E L L E R YFrench FanciesJo Young explores the huge contribution made by French Huguenotcraftspeople to the history of British silver.

| Antique Jewellery


George I silver cream jug by David Willaume, London c.1720

De Lamerie kettle

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the Huguenots. As well as a desire to endthe long-running Wars of Religion, Henry IVwas, in sentiment, sympathetic to theProtestant cause, as he himself was a former Protestant who had converted toCatholicism only as a means to secure histhrone in 1593.

Crucially, the Edict gave the Huguenotspermission to work in any field or for thestate. It was the 1685 removal of this ‘rightto work’ by Henry IV’s grandson Louis XIV(who felt threatened by the size of theHuguenot population) that triggered a mass exodus of Huguenot workers fromFrench soil, including a significant number of highly-skilled goldsmiths. These Huguenotrefugees fled for the most part to sympathetic Protestant states throughoutEurope, including Russia, the Netherlandsand Germany. Many left France for its nearneighbour – Britain.

Huguenots in LondonAt first, the Huguenot people who arrived in the English capital were not, it is fair tosay, made to feel terribly welcome. Alreadystateless refugees, they found themselveson arrival in fierce competition with thenative craftspeople in the impressive number of skilled trades in which they principally operated – including weaving,

furniture-making and goldsmithing. Indeed,petitions were handed in to almost everypublic body in the city in protest at the ‘foreigners’ who, it was felt, undercut thewages paid to native workers. The gold-smiths were no exception, putting togetherat least two of their own petitions as the17th Century drew to a close.

However, the Huguenots were exception-ally skilled and, it soon transpired, were able to breathe new creative life into theexhausted goldsmithing trade. Throughoutmuch of the 18th century, their contributionwas enormous, and Huguenot names –such as Pierre Harache, Paul Lamerie, PierrePlatel, and Lewis Mattayer – are among the most important in the silversmithingindustry of the period.

Pierre Harache (1630 – 1712?)Born in Rouen in France, Harache was the first Huguenot goldsmith to be admittedto the Goldsmiths’ Company in 1682. He came from a family of goldsmiths, whomade a large collective contribution toEnglish silversmithing over a period of nearly 100 years, but among whom he was the most famous name. Entered at the Goldsmith’s Hall as a largeworker (making candlesticks and hollowware), heestablished his business around the CharingCross area, where he remained until hisdeath at the turn of the century. His work is of a particularly high standard, typicallyfeaturing applied decoration and engraving,and he had a large and important client list.


Antique Jewellery |

It was, as it turned out,thanks to one single politicalact – in France of all places– that the future of Englishsilver was altered…

Pair of Queen Anne silver-gilt candlesticks by Pierre Platel, London 1713

Pair of Queen Anne silver-gilt two handled bowls and covers by Pierre Platel, London, c. 1700

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| Antique Jewellery


Pierre Platel (1664-1719)Born in 1664 in Lille to Huguenot parents,Pierre Platel fled France in 1685, firstly toFlanders and then onto England in 1688. It is thought that he trained as a goldsmithbefore leaving France, but when he beganworking in England, having received thefreedom of the Goldsmiths’ Company andregistered his mark in 1699, he set up shop in Pall Mall. Producing domestic goldand silver work that was often elaboratelydecorated and ornamental, Platel becameone of the leading goldsmiths working inthe city, attracting an extremely wealthy and powerful clientele.

Paul de Lamerie (1688 - 1751)Paul de Lamerie, who has been quoted asbeing the 18th Century’s ‘greatest silversmith’,began his career apprenticed to Pierre Platel.He worked for Platel from 1703 to 1711,later establishing his own workshop in 1713.

Unlike Platel, Paul de Lamerie was notFrench, but was born in Hertogenbosch, nowthe Netherlands, the son of a minor Frenchnobleman who left his homeland followingthe revocation of the Edict of Nantes.

Lamerie’s early work followed the fashionof the time, and was quietly simple in style,but to modern collectors he is known mostlyfor his highly decorative Rococo work, whichhe produced from the 1730s onwards. TheRococo style, which was popular throughoutEurope until eventually falling out of favourat the end of the 18th Century, is bestdescribed as ‘elaborate’, featuring scroll andfigural decoration, typifying the excesses ofmid-18th Century taste.

Lamerie’s customers were a particularlywealthy, powerful and influential bunch,including Russian and English royalty as well as various English earls, dukes and viscounts. Interestingly, though Lamerie’swork today fetches several times the valueof that of his contemporaries, some silverexperts regard his work as being – on occasion – a little ordinary. He produced aparticularly large body of work of varyingquality and it is suspected that he may havesubcontracted some of his work to other –lesser? – craftsmen.

Simon Pantin (1680 – 1728)Another son of a French Huguenot family,Pantin was the son of a goldsmith working inSt James’s – where Lamerie had his work-shop – who began his goldsmithing careerapprenticed to Pierre Harache in 1694. Pantinreceived his own mark in 1701 and wasnaturalised in England in 1709. Interestingly,Pantin’s mark incorporated a picture of apeacock following the then French tradition ofincluding symbols from a craftsman’s life orwork in their maker’s mark: his workshopwas then located in Peacock Street in Soho.

Though Lamerie’s work today fetches several times the valueof that of his contemporaries it is suspected that he may havesubcontracted some of his work to other – lesser? – craftsmen.

George I silver cream jug by David Willaume, London c.1720

Casters by Paul de Lamerie

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French church doorframe in Sohocommemorating the asylumgranted to the Huguenots by King Edward VI

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20th Century Pewter by Paul CarterRobinson (£45, Antique Collector’s Club)Outlining the develop-ment of pewter designfrom the Art Nouveaumovement up to theModernist period, this is the first book toexamine the artists andmanufacturers who work with this material.Highlighted are the important factories and

workshops of the world, as well as detailson marks, care and restoration.

Alexandre Reza by Vivienne Becker(£600, www.assouline.com)Hand-bound, printed on cotton paper andencased in a suede box, this limited edition tome presents over 100 rare piecesby one of Paris’ most exclusive jewellers, gemmologist Alexandre Reza. Over sixdecades the master artisan created fashion-

able, luxurious jewelleryfrom precious stones,using history as inspiration– mixing ages and eras.The book includes a history of the gem houseusing archival documentsand vintage photography.

Costume Jewellery by Judith Miller(£15.00, Octopus Publishing)Just launched is an accessible/portable miniedition (although you’d need a large hand-bag) of Miller’s history of costume jewellery.With strong clear images and explanatorytext, it takes us from ancient Egypt throughto the Renaissance, Art Nouveau and up the 21st Century, with a look at the key designers (from Chanel to Erickson Beamon)working in this sumptuous art form.

Sales & ExhibitionsJune1st June-28th July: Gold – Power & Allure,The Goldsmiths’ Company, London EC2Exhibition celebrating and showing theworking and use of gold in the UK over thepast 4,500 years with around 400 golditems, from ancient to modern.www.thegoldsmiths.co.uk

12th-14th: Pewter Live, Pewterers’ Hall,London EC2Revolving around an annual design compe-tition, this three day event showcases thework of up-and-coming as well as estab-lished designers working in pewter.www.pewterers.org.uk

13th-17th: The Goldsmiths’ CompanyPavilion, Somerset House, London WC2Part of London Jewellery Week, this show highlights the work of 80 vetted modernjewellers such as Nicholas James, Jon Dibbenand Mark Soley. The area will be arrangedby category. www.somersethouse.org.uk

14th-17th: Treasure, Somerset House,London WC2A platform for new and established jewellerytalent, selected by industry insiders. Includedwill be the ethical area, Essence, as well asa new bridal section. www.treasureuk.com

15th-17th: Cockpit Arts Open Studios,London WC1 & 22nd-24th: London SE8A chance to shop from designer makers ofjewellery, such as Ute Decker, RuthTomlinson and Tania Clarke Hall.www.cockpitarts.com

27th-30th: New Designers, BusinessDesign Centre, Islington, London N1Showing the work of the next generation ofdesigners of jewellery, metalwork and glass.‘One Year On’ showcases collections fromselected designers who have graduatedsince 2011. www.newdesigners.com

30th-8th July (& 31st July-7th October):Diamonds: a Jubilee Celebration,Buckingham PalaceA number of pieces shown in the new bookThe Queen’s Diamonds will be on display.www.royalcollection.org.uk

Jewellery & Watch Trade FairsJune12th-13th: The Jewellery Show London,Somerset House, London WC2

A new, trend-driven buying event to showcasethe best of international brands and leadingBritish jewellery designers.www.thejewelleryshow.com

21st-24th: Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair, Hong Kong Convention CentreAround 1,500 exhibitors of jewellery andgemstones from 37 countries. [email protected]

30th-3rd July: Eclat de Mode – Bijorhca,Paris Expo, Porte de Versailles, FranceA new date, earlier in the year, for this jewellery show of fashion, haute couture,designer and fine jewellery, as well aswatches, accessories. www.bijorhca.com

July3rd-4th: Jovella 2012, Tel Aviv, IsraelAround 200 exhibitors showing loose diamonds, gemset gold jewellery, silver jewellery and fashion jewellery – a fusion of East and West. www.jovella.co.il

8th-10th: Scoop International, SaatchiGallery, London SW3A mid-season premium womenswear exhibition including a number of jewellerydesigners including Nicholas King, AlexMonroe and Gillian Julius.www.scoop-international.com

NotebookWhere to go, what to read, what to see…

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Who has been the biggest influence on your life?My wife (has to be!) Running a businesscould be a lonely occupation at times of difficult decisions. While my wife was notinvolved in it in any way, her commonsense approach to problems together withher unwavering support and encouragementhave been invaluable.

Where is your favourite holiday destination? Why?Winter – Courchevel 1850. Huge skiing area,sun (usually), mountain air and breath-taking scenery. Summer – Grand Cayman.Great diving from the shore.

What three words describe you best…in your view and according to others?Fair-minded, meticulous (irritates people attimes) and patient (I think some would disagree at times!)

Looking back at your career, what onething would you do differently if youhad your time over?Without the benefit of hindsight – nothing.With that benefit I would have changed thefocus of our capital expenditure.

What was the last film you saw at the cinema?‘Blood Diamond’ – I enjoyed it as a film,and it did not bring about the negativeeffect the industry feared.

To what do you attribute your success?Hard work

Favourite shopping destination (shop,street, city or country!) Why?Hong Kong. I really do not like shopping, but the Temple Street Market has some fascinating and inexpensive products.

Tell us something not many peopleknow about you…I stood as the Conservative candidate forBirkenhead in the first of the two 1968General Elections. Also, I played rugby againstLondon Welsh with JPR Williams.

If not the jewellery industry, what mightyour alternative career have been?A barrister. When I attained my law degree,all those in the Cambridge law faculty whowere considering careers as barristers were told that however good we might be,it would be a minimum of five years beforewe could make a living. This coincided withmy father asking if I would give the jewellerybusiness a try, as he foresaw a loomingproblem within the family business. Thusmy decision which I have very rarely, andthen only fleetingly, regretted! The irony was that only two years later, even poor bar-risters could make a good living!

Do you Tweet?No

What is your chosen form of exercise?Skiing (since age 17) and scuba diving whichI started doing on honeymoon 35 years ago.

Quick Fire• Red or white wine? Red• Diamonds or coloured stones?

Coloured stones• White or yellow metal? White metal• TV or radio? TV• Jewellery on men?

Just cufflinks, a ring and a watch• Delegator or control freak?

Control freak• Beatles or Rolling Stones? Beatles

(especially so as I live on Merseyside!)• Paperback or e-reader?

Paperback

Last WordThe

The subject of our Last Word feature this month is John Pyke,chairman of Birkenhead jewellers Wm Pyke & Sons and currentpresident of the NAG.

Personal ProfileHaving gained a law degree from Trinity, Cambridge, John joined the familybusiness in 1964 – but not before training in Bradford, Leeds, Manchesterand Geneva. A year later he qualified as a fellow of the GemmologicalAssociation and became the managing director of Pykes in 1978, then in2006 he was joined in that position by his daughter Eleanor Pyke. Until two years ago John was a sitting JP (he retired under the Age Rule) aposition that he had held for 22 years.

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