Canadian Jeweller Magazine November 2009

canadian jewellermagazine

www.canadianjeweller.com

over130 yearsin the business of retailing jewellery

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PLUS: ALL THE LATEST MARKET NEWS, TRENDS & EVENTS

NOVEMBER 2009

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Guy Couture and Stéphane Lavoie from Quebec’s Bijouterie Giffard Rising Stars

Introducing the newest design darlings Manya & Roumen

One Step AheadAttracting top talent in tough times

Educational SpotlightWhat it takes to become a jeweller and what happens

after graduation

Bright Lights, Gold CityItalian jewellery is still going

strong with insights direct from Choice at Vicenza

Metamorphosis

Special

Feature

The Winners of

CJ’s Excellence in

Design Awards

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To add your name to our mailing list please forward your request to [email protected]

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30 2.01 RBC G SI1 7.88x7.98x6.04 63.5 58.5 VG VG NONE -35% HW VG

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8 CJ n o v e m b e r 2 0 0 9 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m

EstablishEd 1879 NOVEMbEr 2009 • vol. 130, no. 6

Marc tremblay Guest EditorOlivier Felicio President, Publisher | [email protected]

Paul aguirre Associate Editor | [email protected] besler Editorial Consultant

danielle Ng-see-Quan Editorial Assistant | [email protected] subha arulvarathan Editorial Intern | [email protected]

scott Jordan Art Director | [email protected] leslie Ross Designer | [email protected]

Jordan Martinez Production Manager | [email protected]

Melanie seth Accounting and Administration | [email protected] daniel hare Administration Coordinator | [email protected]

CONtRibUtORs Robin Gambhir, Sarah B. Hood, Howard Grosfield, Stacy Karjala, Amber Klaehn, Daniel Marquez, Duncan Parker, Jerome Scullino, Bonnie Siegler, Norma Meneguzzi Spall.

salEslucy holden

sarah Perkin

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Montreal, Quebec, H2N 2J2

tel. (514) 381-5196 fax (514) 381-6223

toll free 1-888-358-8186 ext. 6117

subscription Ratescanada — one year, $185; two years, $175; three years $160. united States — one year, uS$44. Foreign — one year uS$56 (Subscriptions include Buyers’ Guide issues.)

8% P.S.t. for Newfoundland, New Brunswick and Nova Scotia residents. Single copies — $5; Buyers’ Guide $40. Bulk rates — six or more subscriptions, $17.50 per

subscription per year (canada only).

Change of addressemail: [email protected] telephone: (416) 203-7900 ext 6109 fax: (416) 703-6392

or send your cover label and new address to canadian Jeweller magazine, 60 Bloor Street West,

Suite 1106, toronto, oN canada M4W 3B8

Published by Rive Gauche Media ii inc.

canada Post canadian Publications Mail Sales Product Agreement No. 40678000. the publisher does not assume any responsibility for the contents of any advertisement and any and all representations or warranties made in such advertising are those of the advertiser and not of the publisher. the publisher is not liable to any advertiser for any misprints in advertising not the fault of the publisher and in such an event the limit of the publisher’s liability shall not exceed the amount of the publisher’s charge for such advertising. No portion of this publication may be reproduced, in all or part, without the express written permission of the publisher. canadian Jeweller magazine is pleased to review unsolicited submissions for editorial consideration under the following conditions: all material submitted for editorial consideration (photographs, illustrations, written text in electronic or hard copy format) may be used by canadian Jeweller and their affiliates for editorial purposes in any media (whether printed, electronic, internet, disc, etc.) without the consent of, or the payment of compensation to, the party providing such material. Please direct submissions to the editor, canadian. Return undeliverable items to Rive Gauche Media, 60 Bloor Street West, Ste. 1106, toronto, oN canada M4W 3B8.

Official magazine of JVC


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CJ.Nov09_JSN_Ad.indd 1 10/29/09 2:38:20 PM

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table of

Contents

40 Metamorphosis An interview with the family behind Bijouterie Giffard.

46 The Original Beauty What’s the story behind the pearl market?

50 Leaders of the Pack Unveiling the winners of CJ’s Excellence in Design Awards.

62 Revolutionary Road Why e-learning is tomorrow’s classroom.

64 One Step Ahead Continuing our finance series, we look at getting the right people for your business.

65 School Report Card A look at the state of the system educating Canada’s future jewellers and designers.

70 Bright Lights, Gold City New initiatives and designs direct from Choice at Vicenza.

November

Features

70

50

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http://www.bfly.ca


table of

ContentsNovember

Departments14 Letter from the Guest Editor

18 Product Showcase

22 Who’s News Wild jewellery debuts; Sharapova shines; GIA names new President.

26 For The Record Birks gets homey; JCK Las Vegas moves; Stuller goes social.

30 Stock Index

32 Mining News All the happenings in the mining sector.

33 Market Watch What happens to future jewellers after graduation?

36 Face Value How to navigate the good and the bad when it comes to appraisals.

56 Company Profile J.S.N Jewellery Inc.

59 Designer Profile Manya & Roumen

74 Star Watch

76 What’s On

77 Showcase

85 Fax Back

86 Last Word

56

59

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THE WATCH AND JEWELLERY SHOWMARCH 18 – 25, 2010

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BASELWOR LD

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14 CJ N O V E M B E R 2 0 0 9 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m

letterfromguesteditor

As the economists and the media have told you this year, the recession is still knocking hard and the recovery is slow. Nevertheless, the Quebec industry is pulling through quite well, especially in small towns.

� ose who will pull through best are most certainly people of the trade — those who create, make, repair and reinvent the jeweller’s shop every day. For these people, the recession is less difficult than for many others who are only distributing or selling jewels. Another strength of our industry is that many companies are family businesses, and in my opinion, this is a great advantage, especially in more di� cult times.

I have known the Bijouterie Gi� ard family for 15 years now. Since then, I have observed how the company and the unique worldwide brand they have created has evolved — as both a solid in-house brand for the Gi� ard retail operation and as a product that can be wholesaled to other retailers. It’s an immense pleasure that, as guest editor of this issue, I introduce Stéphane Lavoie, Guy Couture and the other members of this family, who remind us of what is great about this trade. Stéphane Lavoie’s marketing strategies are as unique in Canada as the Butter� y cut itself. Have a great holiday selling season!

Marc Tremblay

Guest Editor Bijouterie Lampron, Drummondville, Quebec

Love of the Trade

Marc Tremblay

014.CJ_Directors.indd 14 11/4/09 4:11:53 PM


Fine Diamond Jewellery Collection in 19K Gold

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editorialboard

To find out more about Canadian Jeweller’s Editorial Board,please contact Paul Aguirre, Associate Editor, at [email protected].

Mark LashMark Lash’s Fine Jewellery

Myles MindhamMindham Fine Jewellery Inc.

Brent TrepelBen Moss Jewellers

Judy RichardsDavidson’s Jewellers

Canadian Jeweller’s Editorial Board

Frank DamianiDamiani Jewellers


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productshowcase

JOMARKHas been Canada’s premier distributor of European gold jewellery since 1989. Offering an extensive range of gold jewellery, JOMARK’s high standards and passion, guarantees high quality luxury jewellery delivered across Canada. All gold is imported from the world’s fashion capital, Italy. Acquire luxury jewellery from the unsurpassed gold distributor, JOMARK. For more information, write 126 on the Free Info Card on page 85.

Siffari’s Signature CollectionA tradition in excellence continues with Siffari’s Signature Collection. Manufactured entirely in Canada, Siffari has combined unique design and detailed craftsmanship in this stunning collection. Featured here is a 14K two-tone gold ring with 0.21 cts of natural yellow diamonds and .58 cts of white diamonds. For more information, write 128 on the Free Info Card on page 85.

Nova DiamondsKnown for their unique attributes and aesthetically pleasing designs, Nova Diamonds reveals their latest creation, the Spotted Bangle. The Spotted Bangle strategically mixes black and white diamonds to create a visually stunning piece. All diamonds are VS-SI quality and E-F-G colours, set in 18K white gold. For more information contact Nova Diamonds at (416) 868-6682. Reference: DBN8-183 For more information, write 127 on the Free Info Card on page 85.

The Butterfly EffectThe theory behind the butterfly effect is that any good deed, however small, creates a ripple effect that can change the world. Supporting a cause we hold dear, being environmentally friendly, helping our fellow man, and encouraging our kids to achieve their full potential are all simple things we can do to create a butterfly effect. Butterflies carry rich symbolism of universal appeal which symbolizes birth, change and transformation. Inspired by the symbolism of the butterfly effect, the BFly® jewellery collection expresses our desire to make this a better world. www.bfly.ca. For more information, write 125 on the Free Info Card on page 85.

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www.bfly.ca.

1435 St. Alexander #455 - Montreal, Quebec H3A-2G4 Tel. 1 800 267 7823 ~ 514 845 8257 - E-mail: [email protected]

The heart & soul of wedding bands

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productshowcase

Aquarella™ Collection from StullerThis earring and necklace ensemble offers double fashion flavor with its distinctive combination of 10MM and larger, lustrous cultured pearls and equally sized, hand-selected cabochon gemstones. The length of the necklace is 25”-27” depending on the length of the pearls. Exclusively unique, exclusively Stuller. For more information, write 131 on the Free Info Card on page 85.

BASELWORLD – The Watch and Jewellery ShowPreparations for the World Watch and Jewellery Show BASELWORLD 2010 (March 18 to 25, 2010) have been successfully launched. Some 2,000 exhibitors - specialists in watches, jewellery, precious gems and related brands - will showcase their latest products to those in the industry. All the eminent brands will be present in Basel once again next spring. Reason enough for about 100,000 retailers and wholesalers from all over the world to make the journey to Basel to visit this presentation of the latest trends and creations. www.baselworld.com For more information, write 132 on the Free Info Card on page 85.

Individual ExpressionFor half a century, Atlantic Engraving Ltd. has been an industry leader, and as third generation jewellers, has taken the ultimate symbol of commitment beyond the wedding band and classic eternity ring. Featuring coloured metals and unique finishes, an Atlantic ring is an expression of individuality. Each ring produced is made of seamless tubing and is cut with diamond tipped tools on the highest state-of-the-art European machinery, and no ring leaves the factory without extensive quality control. For more information, write 130 on the Free Info Card on page 85.

JSN Diamonds SparkleJSN is one of Canada’s leading jewellery manufacturers with an arsenal of five brands that range from entry-level product to a fully-certified premium Canadian diamond line. With offices in Canada, the United Kingdom and the United States, along with a plant in Bangkok, Thailand, JSN has achieved a high level of recognition on the international stage. For more information, write 129 on the Free Info Card on page 85.



www.baselworld.com

w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m n o v e m b e r 2 0 0 9 CJ 21

productshowcase

Looping Earrings by Vianna BrasilPhoto: Rogério Franco © White gold earrings set with Black Quartz, Smoky Quartz and Diamonds. Vianna’s looping line is a reinterpretation of the traditional hoops. The metal wire is replaced by gemstones, either disorderly shaped or straight lines. Diamond accents bring light to the set. For more information, write 133 on the Free Info Card on page 85.

The PANDORA LineDanish designed PANDORA offers a universe of jewellery including charm bracelets, rings, necklaces and earrings — in 14K gold, sterling silver and some with semi-precious or precious gems. Each piece is beautifully handcrafted and finished, and many can be personalized to reflect one’s own personal style. For more information, write 136 on the Free Info Card on page 85.

The Gilloro Design Collection We proudly introduce Gilloro Designs, the latest addition to the Gee ‘n Gee Family of fine diamond jewellery collections. The Gilloro collection is a playful combination of colored diamonds and fancy cut stones all set in either 19K white, yellow or rose gold. The collection includes stunning pendant and earring sets, pave encrusted rings and open solitaire settings surrounded by pave set diamonds. For more information, write 134 on the Free Info Card on page 85.

FiretraceGS Laboratories introduces Firetrace, which now makes it possible for clients to accurately measure the light performance of their diamonds. This technology analyzes the light-reflecting properties of a diamond and allows you to determine how much life is in your stones — one more way that GS Laboratories can help you ensure your diamonds stand out in a crowd. For more information, write 135 on the Free Info Card on page 85.



22 CJ N O V E M B E R 2 0 0 9 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m22

Find out who is making headlines in the jewellery industry.

who’snews

Lucy Holden

Phillips Takes on New Role with Corona Jewellery Co.Jon Phillips, G.G., has been appointed to the newly-created role of Divisional Manager of Canadian Diamonds with Corona Jewellery Company. With more than 30 years of experience in the industry, Phillips’ track record includes Henry Birks and Sons, his own manufacturing business in Vancouver and, most recently, BHP Billiton Diamonds, for which he spent two years at the Antwerp o� ce as CanadaMark’s Marketing Manager. He currently serves as the Vice-President of CIBJO’s Diamond Commission and sits on the GIA Alumni Executive Council. “Jon’s extensive background in the Canadian jewellery industry, combined with his recent international diamond experience, made him the perfect � t for the new role as we get set to expand our Canadian Maple Leaf diamond program,” said John Minister, the President of Corona Jewellery. Phillips will be based in the Company’s head o� ce in Toronto.

Maria Sharapova wearing Tiffany’s Frank Gehry-designed

earrings to the U.S. Open.

Sharapova Models Gehry-Designed EarringsTennis star Maria Sharapova continues her partnership with Ti� any & Co. as she rocked a pair of earrings at the U.S. Open designed by renowned architect Frank Gehry, in collaboration with the brand. A native of Toronto, Gehry is famous for designing the Guggenheim Museum in Spain and recently the Art Gallery of Ontario. “� e earrings have a distinctive shape that is like the � uid lines of Frank Gehry’s architecture. I am thrilled to wear these elegant earrings at the U.S. Open,” noted Sharapova.

Binns Brings Bling to Burton’s Alice in WonderlandCelebrity jewellery designer Tom Binns has been tapped by Walt Disney Studios to create a line of jewellery inspired by Tim Burton’s latest movie project Alice in Wonderland starring Johnny Depp, Anne Hathaway and other big names. Binns is no stranger to such attention, as celebrities and fashionistas alike love his surreal pieces. Michelle Obama became a client when she wore a Binns necklace to her � rst Washington ball last winter. � e projected 35-piece line ranges from $100 to $500 in department stores, with six pieces being sold in luxury boutiques from $1,000 to $2,000. � e line and the movie will debut simultaneously in Spring 2010.

Gillies Takes the Helm of Martin RossMartin Ross Group has appointed industry veteran Cameron Gillies as President, continuing the work of the late Varuj Arkarakas. He will be responsible for day-to-day operations of all divisions, along with the company’s factory, production and sales and marketing groups. Gillies comes to Martin Ross from Allura International, where he was President of its associated companies since 2008. He has also worked with the Dales of Edmonton group and A&A Jewellers. He brings to Martin Ross years of experience, as well as strong negotiating, product and customer skills. Gillies will start his new position this November.

Cameron Gillies

Canadian Jeweller Announcement Olivier Felicio, President of Rive Gauche Media is pleased to announce the promotion of Lucy Holden to Associate Publisher. With Style and Canadian Jeweller magazines since 2000, Lucy has over 25 years experience in sales and customer service, and brings a strong dedication to the growth of Canadian Jeweller on a local and international level. Congratulations!

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24 CJ N O V E M B E R 2 0 0 9 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m24

who’snews

Coin and Turlington Team up to Fight Global PovertyLeading Italian jewellery designer Roberto Coin has signed on model and advocate Christy Turlington for his upcoming 2009/2010 ad campaign for the second year in a row. While Coin’s previous campaign bene� ted YouthAIDS, the pair will now support the CARE cause — a leading humanitarian organization � ghting global poverty. � e campaign, photographed by Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin, will be featured in the October issues of major consumer publications such as Elle and Harper’s Bazaar, and will debut internationally as well.

GIA Names Tearle as New CFO� e Gemological Institute of America (GIA) has named David J. Tearle as Vice-President and Chief Financial O� cer. Tearle comes to the position with more than 12 years of public accounting and 15 years in senior � nancial management for multinational companies. He has served in a variety of high-level � nancial positions with multinational corporations in the pharmaceutical industry since 1994. His speci� c areas of expertise include business and manufacturing operations, business development, international reporting and � nancial control and planning. Tearle replaces Bob Buscher, who recently announced plans to leave GIA a� er 13 years to return to the for-pro� t business arena.

Alex Barcados

Keys Launches Jewellery LineWith her upcoming fourth album to hit shelves in December, singer Alicia Keys is continuing to keep herself busy with the creation of AK Worldwide, which will handle all her non-musical and philanthropic works. And the � rst order of business for the � edgling company is to launch a new jewellery collection called “� e Barber’s Daughters.” What makes the line stand out from other celebrity ventures is that the collection will feature handcra� ed pieces engraved which seek to inspire the wearer with engraved messages of hope and wisdom. As of yet, there has been no information released on price points or retail availability.

AGTA 2010 Board of Directors Appointments� e American Gem Trade Association (AGTA) welcomed three new directors to its 2010 board. Peter Bazar (from Imperial-Deltah Inc.), Sushil Goyal (from Liberty Gems, Inc.) and Cynthia Renee Zava (from Cynthia Renee, Co.) have all been elected for three-year terms that will take e� ect at the 2010 AGTA Membership Meeting, held at GemFaire Tuscon on February 7, 2010. � e nominating committee was chaired by past president Barbara Lawrence (from Boston Gems & Findings) while Richard Greenwood is the Committee Member for the 2010 nomination slate.

Barcados Appointed Chair of CJAThe Canadian Jewellers Association (CJA) has appointed Alex Barcados as chairman of the Board of Directors for the upcoming year. Barcados is President and co-owner of C.D. Barcados Co., a notable Canadian coloured gemmstone company. For the past 15 years, he has been a fellow of the Gemmological Association of Great Britain and a fellow of the Canadian Gemmological Association. He currently sits on the Board of Directors of the 24 Karat Club and is a past member of the Canadian Gemological Association Board of Directors.

Love Redefi nes Jewellery with True Blood and Jonze’s Latest ProjectPamela Love is making a name for herself in the fashion world with her edgy, goth-inspired pieces. � e 27-year-old designer has contributed her creations, which include claw cu� s, bone rings and bird skull pendants, to many big names in fashion, including Zac Posen, Yigal Arouel and costume designers on HBO’s vampire sensation, True Blood. One of her pieces includes the claw pendant that vampire Eric wears around his neck. Love is also designing a line inspired by the new Spike Jonze � lm Where � e Wild � ings Are for New York-based fashion brand Opening Ceremony. � e line includes claw necklaces, chokers, cu� s and a variety of other pieces, all very animalistic and wild.

Pamela Love

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www.canadianjeweller.com24

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http://www.sanghavidiamonds.com

Diamond Industry Reaches Out to PanamaA delegation of leaders from the world diamond industry held a historic meeting with the President of Panama, Ricardo Martinelli, to discuss the need for Panama to pass legislation enabling diamond trade and tax exemption within its borders. The meeting was attended by Israel Diamond Institute Managing Director Eli Avidar; Israeli Ambasador to Panama Yoad Magen; the Chairman of the World Diamond Council Eli Izhakoff; the President of the Diamond Dealers Club of New York Moshe Mosbacher; NYDDC Managing Director Martin Hochbaum; and President of the Panama Diamond Exchange Erez Akerman. Avidar said at the meeting that the Israeli diamond industry is seeking a base — with a strict rule of law, stable government and well-established local Jewish community — from which it can expand its activities to South America. “We believe that Panana can serve as an ideal

base for Israeli Diamond Industry activites in South America, just as this country acts as a free-trade zone for other products,” continued Avidar. President Martinelli was noted as saying he welcomes collaboration with Israel, and urged that the government would take the necessary legislative steps towards bureaucracy-free diamond trade.

Postponement of International Diamond BoardThree members of the International Diamond Board (IDB) announced in October the postponement of the start-up phase of the board. BHP Billiton, De Beers and Rio Tinto made the decision so ALROSA has sufficient time to review its plans and confirm its participation. This decision also delays the appointment of an IDB CEO. The incorporation of the IDB as a UK company will proceed as planned. The formation of the board was announced in July, after eight months of deliberations by an industry

Working Group, originating from the 2008 St. Petersburg forum. The IDB’s mission will be to create and sustain strong consumer demand for diamonds worldwide through effective category marketing.

JCK Las Vegas Moving to Mandalay Bay in 2011As part of a reinvention of the industry’s leading jewellery event in North America, JCK Las Vegas will be moving off the strip to the Mandalay Bay hotel in 2011. According to JCK, the changes are being enthusiastically endorsed by “major players” in the industry, including the American Gem Trade Association, Hong Kong Jewelry Manufacturers Assocation, LUXURY, Swiss Watch and Vicenzaoro Italian Pavilion, who were among the first to sign up for JCK 2011 and support the move. Before the final decision was made, extensive research was conducted among individual companies and more than 80 of the largest exhibiting companies, including organizations, representing more than 500 domestic and key international customers. Dave Bonaparte, Group Vice President for JCK Events, says “this has been a pure example of customer-focused decision making. We will deliver dynamic change to meet the needs of our customers and create fresh new value without sacrificing any fundamental element that has made JCK Las Vegas so special for 18 years.”

Kibela Opens 200th New Retail DealerCalgary-based sterling silver jewellery company Kibela Inc. recently engaged its 200th retail dealer, Vandenberg’s Jewellers, of Edmonton, Alberta. Silver continues to escalate its position in higher-end jewellery, and Brad Leith, Kibela’s CFO, commented, “We see great pressure on silver to continue to escalate in the months ahead on the commodities market. This also affects both the cost to purchase our products but more importantly the greater perceived value of silver by retail clients that was once only the territory of gold and diamonds.”


news | trends | events

Birks & Mayors Launches Birks LivingBirks & Mayors will launch a new lifestyle and brand concept called “Birks Living” exclusively at its West Hastings flagship location in Vancouver. Starting October 1, the collection will feature chic contemporary and one-of-a-kind décor pieces, sourced from countries including Italy, Spain and France. The collection will have four product families — Iconic, Signature, Extravaganza and Opulence.

Crystal centre piece on black base. Valued at $2,125.

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Signature Engraving Systems Introduces Machining Centre for Jewellery CustomersSignature Engraving Systems has announced the introduction of the Jewellery and Name Necklace Machining Centre. The apparatus attaches to the Signature 8080 Plus and the 8080 Super, and allows users to create custom charms and name necklaces, as well as 0.05-inch thick sterling silver in under 15 minutes. The machining centre, developed by Signature’s engineering team, uses advanced technology to cleanly carve individualized charms. The device works with Signature software in the customer’s existing system, so adding the feature is simple and fast, and is a great opportunity for jewellers to address the market for custom-designed jewellery. Chris Parent, President and CEO of Signature Engraving Systems says, “The new attachment is designed to help jewellers capitalize on the increasingly popular personalization market. After the item has been cut, jewellers can add hand-tool accents, do a bit of polishing and deliver one-of-a-kind pieces to their customers.” The machining centre features include a removable micro filter, spring gauges for quick setting cutting depths and adjustment, a nose plate for consistent engraving depth control, and software and circuit board upgrade to optimize speeds and feeds needed for delicate cutters.

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IDI Presents Largest Ever Pavilion at Hong Kong September ShowThe Israel Diamond Institute Group of Companies (IDI) presented the largest ever Diamond Pavilion at the Hong Kong Jewellery and Watch Fair in September. It included 60 Israeli companies, and an additional 20 companies exhibited throughout the show. The huge Israeli interest in the fair was due in part to the importance the industry places on the Asian market. Hong Kong is Israel’s second largest market for polished diamond exports, representing about 20% of the total. Of the IDI’s presence at the trade show, IDI Chairman Moti Ganz said, “We are pleased to present the strength of the Israeli diamond industry at the Hong Kong September fair. We believe Asia is the growth market of the future for Israeli diamonds and that’s why Israeli companies are participating in record numbers.”

Canadian Line Mashu Mashu Makes its Mark with U.S. BuyersAccording to Laura Goldstein, “mashu mashu” means “Wow, that’s something!” in Hebrew. The publicist turned jewellery designer is married to an Israeli, and when naming her line, was inspired by the catchy phrase that she would often hear when visiting her husband’s family in Israel. Her creations have U.S. fashion mavens buzzing. Goldstein, a Kelowna, Ontario-based designer, says she likes to add a modern twist or surprise to her nature-inspired creations, such as a fish with a pearl in its mouth. Goldstein also draws inspiration from French and Italian ’40s and ’50s haute couture.

Victorinox Swiss Army Creative Director, Jean-Bernard Maeder, Passes Away at Age 60Jean-Bernard Maeder, Creative Director of Marketing and Product at Victorinox Swiss

Army, died suddenly in Switzerland on September 22. He was 60 years old. Maeder joined the Company in 1998, departing his post as Creative Director at Breitling. Maeder contributed significantly to the development, innovation and success of the Victorinox Swiss Army timepiece, which celebrated its 20th anniversary in 2009. Global Timepiece CEO Alexander Bennouna says, “His passion for the watches was highly contagious and very enriching; our collaboration was truly based on professionalism and deep friendship.”

Diamonds International Launches Charity SiteThe world’s largest duty-free jeweller, Diamonds International, has launched DiamondsInternational.org, a charity site focused on community outreach, fundraising and sponsorships for communities in which DI cutting, polishing and retail locations worldwide are located.


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Ernest Jones Launches Boho Soho Line for WinterDiamond and watch specialist Ernest Jones has announced the launch of its Boho Soho charm jewellery collection. The new range is meant to be a complement to winter fashions, combining modern designs and bohemian feel. The collection consists of five capsule lines — Artisan (heavy day-wear jewellery), Minarette (featuring glamourous crystals); Volute (caged back design and elliptical shape); Dilletante (features love hearts encased in a heavy disc); and Mouchette (combines silver and seed shapes to give a waterfall effect) — aimed at the 20-something professional woman.

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fortherecord

Precious Metals

stock index

Agnico-Eagle Mines AEM TSX $61.510 $72.410 17.72% $77.320 $26.600 $162.0 97.89 10,840.00

Alamos Gold AGI TSX $9.860 $9.420 -4.46% $11.300 $3.500 $43.9 18.89 962.00

Anglogold Ashanti Ltd. AU NYSE $38.020 $40.760 7.21% $45.640 $13.370 $814.0 46.11 10,883.00

Anvil Mining Ltd. AVM TSX $2.850 $2.800 -1.75% $4.850 $0.450 $8.8 N/A 279.00

Barrick Gold Corp. ABX TSX $37.290 $40.540 8.72% $49.870 $22.000 $2,124.0 46.13 34,258.00

Compania Minas Buenaventu BVN NYSE $26.540 $35.210 32.67% $35.350 $9.000 $198.1 25.41 8,605.00

Eastern Platinum ELR TSX $0.510 $0.580 13.73% $0.960 $0.185 $29.6 N/A 374.00

Eldorado Gold ELD TSX $12.240 $12.160 -0.65% $13.090 $3.440 $80.5 22.8 4,319.00

Equinox Minerals Ltd. EQN TSX $2.800 $3.460 23.57% $3.460 $0.760 $112.4 23.57 2,308.00

First Quantum Minerals FM TSX $69.400 $70.000 0.86% $77.070 $12.750 $377.0 N/A 5,291.00

FNX Mining Company FNX TSX $9.370 $9.380 0.11% $11.360 $2.000 $65.3 N/A 788.00

Fortune Valley Resources FVX TSX-V $0.050 $0.080 60.00% $0.100 $0.005 N/A N/A 3.00

Gammon Gold GAM TSX $6.820 $9.160 34.31% $10.230 $2.680 $50.9 87.9 1,086.00

Gold Fields GFI NYSE $12.470 $13.780 10.51% $15.000 $4.640 $902.2 51.88 9,459.00

Goldcorp Inc. G TSX $39.520 $42.980 8.76% $46.450 $17.770 $632.7 19.67 30,354.00

Iamgold Corp. IMG TSX $13.220 $15.130 14.45% $16.970 $2.930 $263.9 488 5,184.00

International Royalty IRC TSX $3.890 $4.320 11.05% $4.850 $1.300 $8.9 69.33 326.00

Ivanhoe Mines IVN TSX $9.710 $13.760 41.71% $13.950 $2.060 $37.8 N/A 4,934.00

Kinross Gold K TSX $21.480 $23.330 8.61% $25.220 $8.960 $592.8 N/A 15,592.00

Lundin Mining LUN TSX $3.950 $3.610 -8.61% $4.180 $0.690 $233.6 N/A 1,918.00

Newmont Mining NMC TSX $45.010 $47.000 4.42% $59.600 $27.140 $1,602.0 31.18 20,309.00

NovaGold Resources NG TSX $4.280 $5.500 28.50% $7.160 $0.475 $16.5 N/A 958.00

Pan American Silver PAA TSX $22.530 $24.580 9.10% $26.680 $11.120 $113.8 N/A 2,038.00

Red Back Mining Inc. RBI TSX $10.160 $12.030 18.41% $13.300 $3.280 $82.1 29.24 2,557.00

Silver Standard Resources SSO TSX $20.100 $23.080 14.83% $27.690 $6.870 $5.7 N/A 1,461.00

Silver Wheaton SLW TSX $10.930 $13.590 24.34% $14.250 $3.070 $48.4 76.59 4,055.00

Teck Resources Ltd. TCK.B TSX $29.800 $29.500 -1.01% $31.060 $3.350 $2,168.0 21.07 13,756.00

Yamana Gold Inc. YRI TSX $9.900 $11.520 16.36% $13.010 $4.290 $274.8 15.86 8,021.00

Anglo American PLC AAUKY OTC $15.950 $15.880 -0.44% $17.700 $6.210 N/A 9.41 39,520.00

Azure Resources Corp. AZU TSX-V $0.100 $0.100 0.00% $0.140 $0.045 $0.5 0.61 5.00

BHP Billiton Ltd. BHP NYSE $65.060 $66.010 1.46% $69.460 $24.530 N/A 14.62 105,570.00

Diamcor Mining DMI TSX-V $0.310 $0.220 -29.03% $0.350 $0.130 N/A N/A 2.00

Diamond Fields Int’l. DFI TSX $0.055 $0.100 81.82% $0.250 $0.025 $0.4 N/A 4.00

Diamond North Resources DDN TSX-V $0.160 $0.165 3.13% $0.650 $0.100 N/A 38.99 14.00

Dios Exploration DOS TSX-V $0.190 $0.165 -13.16% $0.250 $0.050 N/A N/A 7.00

Harry Winston Diamond HW TSX $6.180 $9.050 46.44% $14.240 $2.190 $107.6 N/A 658.00

Mountain Province Diamonds MPV TSX $1.710 $2.680 56.73% $3.490 $0.730 0 N/A 163.00

Moydow Mines Int’l. Inc. MOY TSX $0.140 $0.170 21.43% $0.200 $0.050 0 N/A 9.00

New Nadina Expls Ltd. NNA TSX-V $0.090 $0.065 -27.78% $0.200 $0.045 N/A N/A 2.00

Rio Tinto RTP NYSE $162.830 $170.290 4.58% $259.700 $59.200 N/A N/A 40,747.00

Sanatana Diamonds Inc. STA TSX-V $0.075 $0.090 20.00% $0.290 $0.040 N/A N/A 6.00

Shear Minerals Ltd. SRM TSX-V $0.060 $0.080 33.33% $0.160 $0.035 N/A 9 7.00

Starfield Resources Inc. SRU TSX $0.170 $0.145 -14.71% $0.520 $0.070 $0.0 N/A 47.00

Stornoway Diamond SWY TSX $0.115 $0.190 65.22% $0.275 $0.055 $0.0 N/A 45.00

True North Gems TGX TSX-V $0.120 $0.135 12.50% $0.215 $0.050 N/A N/A 9.00

Western Standard Metals WSM TSX-V $0.130 $0.370 184.62% $0.375 $0.050 N/A N/A N/A

Birks & Mayors BMJ AMEX $0.470 $0.550 17.02% $1.500 $0.200 N/A N/A 6.00

Fossil Inc. FOSL Nasdaq $25.570 $28.450 11.26% $30.000 $11.000 $315.9 15.5 1,797.00

Sears Canada SCC TSX $20.050 $21.250 5.99% $24.480 $15.000 $1,250.0 10.15 2,272.00

Signet Group SIG NYSE $22.620 $26.330 16.40% $28.440 $5.910 $710.8 N/A 2,602.00

Tiffany & Co. TIF NYSE $31.010 $38.530 24.25% $39.400 $16.700 $612.5 20.43 4,709.00

Wal-Mart WMT NYSE $51.880 $49.090 -5.38% $60.300 $46.250 $100,910.0 14.2 190,934.00

Zale Corporation ZLC NYSE $6.370 $7.150 12.24% $26.250 $0.890 N/A N/A 208.00

Gold COMX $999.300

Silver COMX $16.630

Platinum NYME $1,289.800

Palladium COMX $298.550

*This selection of securities is not to be interpreted as a solicitation and companies are not endorsed by Rive Gauche Media.

Company Name StockSymbol

Exchange Price08/14/09

Price09/30/09

% Change

52-WeekHigh

52-WeekLow

Last QuarterRevenue ($Millions)

P/ERatio

MarketCap

($Millions)

GeMstones

Jewellers & retailers

coMModities

AGS Awards CGA Title, Makes HistoryErica Sanchez-Hawkins of Erica’s Fine Jewellery has achieved the Certified Gemologist Appraiser (CGA) title from the American Gem Society (AGS). The CGA accreditation is the highest level of achievement in the jewellery industry. Approximately 400 jewellers in North America have earned this title, and only 20% are goldsmiths as well, Sanchez-Hawkins being one of these out of 80. Sanchez-Hawkins makes history with this accreditation as the first African-American/Hispanic female to obtain the title. She was also elected a member of the National Association of Jewellery Appraisers (NAJA) in August.

Sanghavi Diamonds Named Top Indian Importer of Polished Diamonds to U.S.India’s Gem and Jewellery Export Promotion Council (GJEPC) has given Sanghavi Diamonds the award for highest importer of cut and polished diamonds into the U.S. for 2008-2009. The award is sponsored by the Ministry of Commerce and the government of India. Sanghavi Diamonds President Nitin Jobanputra says, “We at Sanghavi Diamonds have been persistent at providing the highest level of customer satisfaction through the hard work and dedication of our team. The loyalty and reliability of our customers has brought us to levels we have not seen before.”

Delcam Establishes California OfficeDelcam has established an office in California following its acquisition of the assets and goodwill of its reseller, VIZION Technologies. VIZION staff will become direct employees to ensure continuity of service to Delcam software users in the state.

Stuller Inc. Looks to Social Media Applications for Marketing CampaignStuller, Inc. recently announced its Red Box Diamond giveaway via Facebook. Stuller made the announcement in conjunction with the release of its iPhone application, with the aim of driving bridal shoppers to their local, independent Red Box Diamond retailers. They will also be promoting their diamond campaign with monthly advertisements on a popular bridal planning website, and through a Facebook fan page. [CJ]

026-030.CJ_FTR_re copy.indd 30 10/29/09 11:18:01 AM


INTRODUCING BY

High-End Fashion Jewellery & Loose DiamondsNova Diamonds Inc.

221 Victoria St. Lower LevelToronto, Ontario, Canada, M5B 1V4

Phone: 416-868-6682 Fax: 416-868-0666


CJ.Nov09_Mirage_Nova_Ad.indd 1 10/29/09 2:54:42 PM


miningnews

MPH Ventures to Acquire Gold Properties MPH Ventures Corp. is set to acquire three contiguous gold properties referred to as the Godfrey Gold property. Located 20km west of Timmins, ON, and 9km northwest of the Lakeshore Gold Timmins mine, the 700-acre acquisition is located in the Godfrey and Bristol Townships. For this fall, an exploration program consisting of line cutting, mechanical trenching and ground geophysics is planned, followed by a drilling program. MPH Ventures Corp., a gold and molybdenum exploration company, is focused on mineral development in Canada.

De Beers Cancels ShutdownA four-week shutdown is off the books for De Beers Canada. The industry giant is canceling the planned four-week winter shutdown of its Snap Lake diamond mine, located in Canada’s Northwest Territories. According to the company, the motivation behind the move is the improving conditions of the global diamond industry. “This is a good news decision in response to some positive trends we are seeing in the market place,” said Jim Gowans, the CEO of De Beers’ Canadian unit. The decision follows a similar one made by nearby Diavik diamond mine, owned by Harry Winston and Rio Tinto.

Eldorado Buyout ApprovedEldorado Gold Corp’s $1.36-billion buyout of Australian-listed company Sino Mining Ltd. has been approved by the Australian government. Eldorado’s offer, announced in August of this year, is worth $6.73 (Australian) per share, based on the firm’s last trade. Eldorado already owned 19.8% of Sino Gold before the offer was put on the table (due to its purchase of Gold Fields’ stake in July,) with the aim to double its gold production in China.

Petra Diamonds Discovers Rare FindPetra Diamonds has discovered a 507.55ct white diamond, one of the largest high-quality rough diamonds ever found, at South Africa’s Cullinan mine. An initial examination has revealed that the diamond is just over 100 grams (or 3.5 ounces) with exceptional colour and clarity. Found alongside it were three other impressive and

similar white gems: a large diamond of 168.00 carats and two other stones of 58.50 and 53.30 carats. This is not the first extraordinary diamond found at the mine. In May 2008, the mine produced a sparkling 101.27ct diamond. Previously owned by De Beers, Cullinan is the third richest diamond-producing mine in South Africa.

Mines Ministers Meeting Urged to Promote Sustainability The Mining Association of Canada encouraged governments at the 66th annual Mines Ministers meeting to take action in sustaining Canada’s mining industry. While some 32 mines in Canada were suspended or closed, many were operating below capacity in the first half of this year. In response, the association calls for the government’s increased dedication to economic development in terms of initiatives such as increased open access to land and tax incentives to encourage increased investment. The association’s annual Facts and Figures 2009 publication cites the significant contribution of the mining sector to Canada’s GDP in 2008 ($40 billion) and the record-high $11.5-billion in taxes and royalties the sector shelled out to all levels of the Canadian government. The report ultimately illustrates the advantages of securing the long-term stability of the industry.

Chidliak Exploration Finds New DiamondsCanada-based Peregrine Diamonds Ltd. has made a new discovery of diamonds at the Chidliak exploration property in Baffin Island, Nunavut. Funded by BHP Billiton Ltd., the 2009 exploration recovered a 0.64ct off-white, translucent octahedroid in a 220.9 kg sample from the CH-7 kimberlite. The sample also yielded 664 diamonds larger than the 0.075mm sieve size, and 11 larger than the 0.600mm, with CH-4 and CH-8 bearing 15 and 17 diamonds larger than 0.600mm sieve size.

Mercartor Buys Stingray Mercartor Minerals Ltd. will buy out Stingray Copper Inc. in a $44.1-million stock deal to expand its operations and capitalize on Stingray’s El Pilar project in Sonora, Mexico. Mercator will buy all issued and

outstanding Stingray shares at an exchange ratio of 0.25 Mercator shares per Stingray share. The offer represents a 52% premium to Stingray’s closing price of $0.48 on Thursday. While Michael Surratt, the chief executive of Mercator, will remain CEO of the combined company, Peter Mordaunt, the CEO of Stingray, will become chief operating officer of the combined company. The deal is scheduled to close by the end of the year.

Canadian Mines Sign Mongolian Agreement Canada-listed Ivanhoe Mines and Rio Tinto have signed a long-term investment agreement with the Mongolian government to build and operate Oyu Tolgoi, a copper/gold mining complex in the country’s south Gobi region. The deal to develop the $3-billion mine, with one of the world’s biggest untapped copper and gold deposits, will increase the global supply of copper by 2%. Production is scheduled to start in 2013, at an average of 450,000 tonnes of copper per year and 330,000 ounces of gold over 35 years. Six years in the making, the deal was ultimately made possible when the Mongolian government lifted its decision to repeal its windfall profits tax in late August.

Wabush Mines to be SoldSubsidiaries of the world’s largest steel maker and a United States Steel Corp. subsidiary are planning to sell their minority stake in a Canadian iron ore mine to a Montreal-based company. ArcelorMittal Dofsco announced that it would sell its 28.6% interest in Wabush Mines to Consolidated Thompson Iron Mines Ltd. for $34.28 million, citing that it was “no longer a core part of the company’s mining strategy.” U.S. Steel Canada Inc., on the other hand, sold its near 45% stake for an undisclosed amount of money. Wabush Mines owns and operates iron ore mining pelliet facilities in Newfoundland and Labrador, Quebec, representing 31 million tonnes of iron ore reserve and 1.2 million tonnes of iron ore produced for the company last year. Wabush Mines continues to operate ArcelorMittal Mines Canada, formerly known as Quebec Cartier Mining. The sale is still subject to right of first refusal by Wabush Mines third owner Cliffs Natural Resources Inc. and regulatory approvals. [CJ]

032.CJ_MiningNews.indd 32 10/29/09 11:19:38 AM


sectionhead

Now might be the best time to be a jewellery student. The industry is in the midst of a transition that has shifted, and in some cases destroyed, longstanding traditions and structures within the industry. These changes, brought about by the rise of the Internet as an affective force and hastened

by the sudden economic downturn, mark a period of what economists call “creative destruction:” a period of transformation that follows radical innovation. Today’s student will enter an industry that is radically different in the areas of retail, manufacturing, distribution and marketing than it was even five years ago.

Retail ReasonTraditionally, retailers were the gatekeepers to the market. If you wanted to sell your product, a retailer had to agree to put it in his showcase. The supply chain had a push model, where manufacturers made a product and a road representative placed that product in a retailer’s store. Today, the model is shifting towards a pull model where customers come into a store seeking specific products or brands that they have already seen advertised.

Now What?The future of retailing is changing. Are new graduates ready?

By RoBin GamBhiR

marketwatch


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A long time ago (before the advent of shopping malls), jewellers had stand-alone stores that weren’t on every corner. The proprietors in these stores either produced what they sold or knew how to produce what they were reselling. That hasn’t been the case in chain stores for some time. These days, to be successful, you need to pay your staff proper wages and you have to hire people who know the product; the old adage that if you pay peanuts, you get monkeys holds. It used to be that a student would graduate and go to work for minimum wage in a chain store for experience. These days, they can make the jewellery they were trained to make in school and sell it themselves on places like etsy.com.

Branding 101A startling number of retailers credited their very survival to the sales of readily available, affordably-priced wholesale brands. With their margins and markets protected, and a steady stream of consumers coming through the door prompted by big-brand marketing machines from those brands, it’s no wonder that retailers are becoming fixated on product with a strong marketing image.

In Canada, branding has been hit and miss, and is still largely the province of Canadian diamonds. In fact, the story of branded Canadian diamonds indicates a lack of sophistication, and ultimately a lack of understanding amongst suppliers, that a brand is more than just a name and logo. A brand has to have values, a value proposition, a message and an appeal for consumers.

A Diamond DealIn the past, retailers made a lot of their margin on diamond sales, which yielded at least keystone. These days, margins have shrunk considerably to the point where in a city like Toronto, for example, a carat size diamond might be sold for as little as $500 over cost. Instead, retailers have been charging more for the mount, but there is still a considerable shortfall

over what the same diamond ring might have sold for ten years ago. One exception to this troubling trend is Canadian diamonds. As they are not widely available on sites like Blue Nile, Canadian diamonds are not under the same price pressure as other diamonds. Canadian diamonds can command, we are told, between five percent and ten percent more than other diamonds. And independent jewellers across Canada have access to their own diamond search through OpenBlue Networks, whose inventory of Canadian diamonds is almost ten times what Blue Nile has available and is perhaps the largest collection on the web. That inventory is a combination of the major dealers in Canadian diamonds.

Earlier this year, one of the diamond suppliers on our system approached us because he felt his diamonds might appear expensive online when retailers were marking them up at keystone. We knew that retailers needed guidance when it came to the markup of diamonds online. Working with two major Canadian diamond suppliers, we built supplier price guides, an opt-in program wherein the retailers markup would be determined by the supplier. What that meant was that retailers who opt in to this program would see their keystone markup start declining after the $1,000 cost for the stone threshold was passed, and slide to about 35% on stones over $5,000 at cost.

These price guides are the start of what could result in list prices for diamonds which, my writer’s opinion, would be a very good thing for Canadian diamonds. The plethora of brands, which was really just a means of segmenting the market, hasn’t properly addressed the issue of preserving margin. And in this environment, the only real brand is Canada as the country of origin. The rest is just packaging. If the Canadian diamond industry worked together to protect margins which, from a retail perspective, is a huge attraction in branded goods, it would lead to a healthier market for all.

“In the past, retailers made a lot of their margin on diamond sales, which

yielded at least keystone. These days, margins have shrunk considerably

to the point where in a city like Toronto, for example, a carat size

diamond might be sold for as little as $500 over cost.”




Manufacturing MarvelAs CAD and rapid prototyping becomes less expensive and more mainstream, the number of retailers manufacturing their own products will grow. Domestic manufacturers will need to either establish their own consumer brands based on more than just a logo (think design and materials) or they will need to sell based on what they can produce better, cheaper or deliver faster than their foreign competitors.

Marketing MavericksWhile the cost of getting a message out there has become almost free with online marketing, some people in the industry are grappling with their message, or if they even have one at all. That’s something new. Brands weren’t much of a factor in retail sales (the retailer was the brand) and everything was kind of generic. So, to the extent that De Beers marketed diamonds as an aspirational purchase, that was all the messaging the industry needed.

Online marketing, with an effective website as a minimum, is crucial to success. The trend is clear: consumers are checking out retailers on the web before they visit their stores. In this kind of environment, having a message is what will set retailers apart. What’s a message? It’s the answer to the question, “Why should I buy from you?” and the answer must always centre around exclusivity of some kind. That could be because you are a dealer for a particular brand, you have a goldsmith on the premises, or you offer value-adds such as warranties, insurance and other services with purchases.

Distribution DealsOur business is based on relationships, and travellers who attend trade shows and go from store to store carrying lines form many of those relationships. It is, sadly, a dying art, as retiring travellers are not being replaced by new, younger entries to the field. Since family firms dominate our business, the children of the founders sometimes replace the independent travellers who retire. But with the business of travelling with live goods becoming increasingly dangerous, independent travellers are leaving the road and fewer founders are willing to put their children at risk. This, combined with increasing insurance premiums and shrinking margins, has endangered this approach to distribution. If good retailers are key to the industry’s success, travellers are not far behind in this equation. To fill the void, companies are using trade shows (which are held in a secure environment) and travellers are carrying laptops, CDs and brass and glass samples instead of live-delivery goods. So as we move through these changes, travelling sales people may eventually become a thing of the past in our industry as it has in some other industries.

What Does the Future Hold?All of these changes will make us better. They will make us better marketers, more efficient manufacturers and great retailers; what we lose in some areas we will gain in others. And, we are not alone: many industries are facing the same disruptions to the established order. So someone entering the industry in the next few years will encounter fewer barriers to entry along with higher standards for retail, marketing, branding and production. And that will only serve the industry well in the future. [CJ]


marketwatch

everything

everlasting

Nevermore

INspIr atIoNal

let your sales message sustain

Brand your store(s)

Free to consumer and free to you

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Like anything in life, bad experiences stand out more boldly than the good. When any of us makes an error, it might be a good thing to lose a little sleep over it, because when mistakes don’t

bother us, we cease to care about them, and we are therefore more likely to make them. The good craftsman is proud to display his work.

Appraisers should work from the point of view that the appraisal is a legal document, and might need to be defended in court, and for that reason, it had better be thorough and complete. At Harold Weinstein, we, as appraisers, often work as expert witnesses, and in these cases, our credentials, abilities and, perhaps most importantly, our documents come under close scrutiny. The appraisals are being read and interpreted by lawyers who, on the one side, are intent on proving us right, and on the other, intent on proving us wrong.

Providing detail is important. Sometimes appraisals don’t include measurements of gems because estimating weight based on visual appearance is quicker, but this makes it more difficult to prove a gem’s identity in court. Estimated weights are potentially less accurate if the measurements were not taken. Even face-up dimensions are not reliable. We see round diamonds that are 5.90mm diameter, but are 1.00ct in weight — not 0.77ct, which might be expected in a well-proportioned diamond of that diameter.

It really is important to be complete and accurate in an appraisal. The problem is balancing the best work with profitability. Good work takes time, and the more time you spend writing each appraisal, the fewer appraisals you will write, and the less money you make. This is why we see appraisals that say:

“One 3.2g 14k yellow gold ring containing numerous diamonds. Replacement value: $1,200.”

Jewellers Vigilance Canada (JVC) has published the Jewellery Appraisal Guidelines that set out the minimum acceptable standards for the preparation of appraisals. The Guidelines are available at the JVC website, and are now the standard accepted by the insurance industry.

The Jewellery Appraisal Guidelines establish parameters for description and detail, and itemize what is necessary for a complete appraisal. These guidelines were prepared over many years by JVC, in collaboration with the jewellery trade, the insurance industry and departments of the federal government.

Writing a fully fleshed-out appraisal requires details, grading and identification of gems, details of metal, construction methods and pertinent brands if any, plus many other features.

If your appraisal includes grading of gems, any trade-specific terminology must be explained and understandable to the jewellery owner. Saying a diamond is “VS-1, G, princess cut, 1.00ct, and measuring 5.60 x 5.60 x 3.92mm” could be equivalent to saying the diamond is a “herbozzle with a clathyfield pong” to an uneducated consumer. Your appraisal needs to have explanatory notes for any specialized terminology.

We see old appraisals that have grading for diamonds and gems that are unique to the appraiser, and this causes headaches for updates on lost items. What exactly is a “4-16-FB” 1.00ct round diamond? What on earth is a “Jacinth,” and is that “smoky topaz” really topaz at all? It is necessary to use the correct names for gems. Standardized diamond grading terminology is simpler because it is used by almost everyone. Simple and clear language is essential.

Older appraisals often have simple but vague terminology: “One 14k yellow gold lady’s ring with a 1.00ct fine quality diamond” is often as descriptive as we see in appraisals from the 1940s to 1970s.

Through the looking glassAppraisals: the good, the bad and the ugly.By Duncan Parker

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The appraisal really needs to be more thorough. What is fine quality, anyway? Maybe it depends upon where it was sold. It doesn’t help to be vague.

Accuracy is important. How many times have appraisers made assumptions about gems? Just because it looks like an emerald doesn’t mean it is an emerald. When I am teaching, I have an exercise for students using 10 stones that all look similar; yellowish green apatite, tourmaline, peridot, zircon, demantoid garnet, Brazilianite and so on, just to remind students that visual identification is only a start. You really do have to actually test the gems. We can all make mistakes, but with care they can be avoided as much as possible. Visual identification is a great hazard, and can lead to costly mistakes. We often see synthetic sapphires or rubies identified as natural, and vice-versa. Such mistakes are based on hasty work. If the owner acted on the information in such an appraisal and sold the item based on that, it could be disastrously costly when the error comes to light.

How many gemologists have incorrectly identified gems in appraisals? This is a common problem, partly because an appraisal is so inexpensive that proper and thorough work can make the appraisal cost-ineffective. It is quick and easy to incorrectly identify gems, fail to test metals or avoid describing an item of jewellery. It is even possible to write appraisals without even seeing the items of jewellery. There are appraisals written on standard models of jewellery for which a sample was seen, and the centre diamond graded by the appraiser, but the item described in the appraisal was not fully evaluated by the appraiser. These practices might make the appraisal process more cost effective, but they are in contravention of the Jewellery Appraisal Guidelines.

If an item takes a long time to appraise, requires research or other extra work, has many different gems, has hundreds or thousands of gems or needs advanced testing, it is reasonable to charge extra for the work.

At a recent conference, a panel discussion focused on appraisals, and the values placed upon them. One panelist was put on the spot because appraisals from his company reflect prices that are far higher than have ever been charged by any retailer. His explanation was that he was working in a “range of markets,” but he couldn’t explain the precise extent of that range.

We are seeing lots of items purchased through Internet “webtailers” (to coin a phrase), which have sold for tiny margins. If I appraise these for the price that might be charged by a main-street retailer, my value will be absurd compared to the price paid. Conversely, if I appraise something purchased in a main-street retailer for the amount that might be paid on the web, my value would generate some questions. This is a source of much discussion in the appraising world now. We should appraise to the market of the particular client.

We often appraise items that were purchased in Internet-based auctions. Usually the price paid was either insanely low or way too high because the thing is synthetic or imitation and virtually worthless. Internet auctions are not a good source of cost pricing for all things. On the other hand, conventional auctions (that are often simultaneously web based) are an important source of pricing, if you generally use at least three results for accuracy. The reason for this is that Dupuis, Sotheby’s or Christie’s, for instance, have professionals who identify and describe gems and jewellery accurately, and some dude selling things on the “web” hasn’t, or chooses not to disclose what he knows.

While mistakes can happen, they can be largely avoided by being attentive and thorough. Appraisers have certain resources to work with, and can honestly arrive at values that are high or low, but we should do our best to be as fair and accurate as possible. It is inexcusable to have a major error in an appraisal, and it is simply immoral to write innacurate, incomplete and shoddy appraisals in order to save time and make more profit. [CJ]

facevalue

“How many gemologists have incorrectly identified

gems in appraisals? This is a common problem,

partly because an appraisal is so inexpensive that

proper and thorough work can make the appraisal

cost-ineffective.”




CJ_Nov09_Vianna_Ad.indd 1 10/29/09 2:56:42 PM

http://www.viannajoias.com.br


From left to right: Lisette Couture, Danielle Couture, Élie Couture, Francine Couture, Stéphane Lavoie, Jeannine Couture and Guy Couture.

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S téphane Lavoie of Bijoutierie Giffard in Quebec City believes radical changes are taking place in the jewellery business. “� e high price of gold combined with the state of this economy will force the industry to create smaller, lighter jewellery,” he says. “� is will

inevitably limit or restrict to some extent the gold content in jewellery of non-branded products, and has led manufacturers to use other, cheaper materials such as silver, palladium and titanium. � at implies an intial investment in terms of money and time.”

MetamorphosisGiffard says major changes are fl uttering through the jewellery industry.

BY CAROL BESLER

PHOTOGRAPHY BY JEROME SCULLINO ��




The BFly Girls Collection for ages 5 and older has been a huge hit, especially the BFly watches and silver earrings with the signature butterfly gem cut.

Surprisingly, Lavoie believes this will ultimately be a positive development. “A little while back, many retailers did not seem too concerned about offering more affordable products. Now, the majority have changed their minds because of the economic situation,” says Lavoie. “I don’t want to say that the difficult economic situation is a good thing, but rather that it is forcing us to reevaluate our opportunities. It is also important to note that attractive lower price-point products bring new customers into the stores and open the way to selling some higher price-point products.”

It Takes TwoLavoie’s family owns and operates two jewellery stores in Quebec City. The original store, opened in 1944, is located in the Chemin Royal district of the city, ten minutes from downtown. It remains the company’s headquarters. After a new law was passed in Quebec a couple of years ago, all small cities in the area were merged to become Quebec City. The original store is in “a more ancestral part of town,” says Lavoie. “There is not a lot of development.” He adds, “We have a lot of long-time customers in that part of the city, but people come from other parts of the city to our store, and have for a long time because of our custom jeweller, Guy Couture. He can do anything you want, using gold and stones. He has created a lot of exclusive pieces, including gemstones with special cuts, that are really pieces of art.” Couture’s followers now include the second generation of families who have been customers. “Even if they have moved away, they come back to

Giffard when they need jewellery,” he says. “Now we’re doing ear piercing for girls whose mothers came in for ear piercing when they were girls.” The Lavoie-Couture family know most of the customers by name — in fact, the customers usually know each other, which makes the store something of a neighbourhood drop-in centre.

Giffard’s second location, opened in 1978, is located at Promenades Mall in Beauport, which is five minutes from the main store. “But it is in a totally new section of town where there are a lot of young families and new housing developments,” says Lavoie. The demographic mix between the two stores is typical of that in most cities, in the sense that the average age of the customer at the main store is 50 and, in the suburban mall location, more like 35. “It’s a great mall,” says Lavoie. “We have a lot more traffic. We have more modern and young brands in the mall [Guess Watches, Harley Davidson watch collection], but we offer the same repair and custom design service.” In terms of customers’ average income, Lavoie says it’s a very wide range: for example, $30,000 to 250,000 and higher for the main store, and $20,000 to $80,000 for the mall store. “So even though the two locations are very close to each other, the customers are so different,” stresses Lavoie. “Also it’s more convenient for transporting the repairs and special orders to head office daily. We had another store in a surrounding city at one point, but after one of our family members had a big accident, we decided to concentrate on our two main locations.”




coverstory

All-in-One ApproachBijouterie Giffard practices what it preaches. The stores are rigorously middle-market, allowing Giffard to cater to a broad market, carrying brands such as Bulova, Wittnauer and J.S.N Diamond Jewellery. The company manufactures at least 40% of its jewellery inventory, including the formulation of its own gold alloys (“secret recipes,” according to Lavoie), and that does not always involve high-karat gold. Aside from that, the store’s philosophy is generally not to crowd the showcase with an abundance of lines. “We try to stay away from jewellery that gets lost in the showcase,” says Lavoie. “When you mix innovative product, for example, such as our in-house brand, with more classical pieces, you lose the impact. This is true for all branded products. They should have exclusive displays because marketing recognition is crucial.” The stores are owned by his uncle, Guy Couture, his mother, Danielle Lavoie, and two aunts, Francine and Lisette Couture. One of the strengths of having a family business, says Lavoie, is that “we work for a common goal, so we seldom count the hours we put in. We’re always there for each other and we all have a passion for the trade we were brought up in.” As long as everyone respects the line between family and family business, it works, he says, although he admits it was “initially a little hard to structure the company because everybody has their own ideas and experience. But we came to understand the importance of each other’s strengths and who would fit best into each role.”

Over the years, the structure fell into place, and today, each family member covers a specific territory: Danielle handles watch repair and sales, while his aunt Francine does accounting, and Lisette manages the Bijouterie Giffard store at Promenades Beauport. Guy Couture is a trained lapidary who is also in charge of production, custom design and, of course, serves as the resident master gem cutter. As for Stéphane, who incidentally has a PhD in physical chemistry, “I still enjoy doing sales in our family stores during the Christmas season. It gives me a chance to speak directly to our customers and get their feedback, which I thoroughly enjoy.” Even Stéphane’s grandmother, Jeannine Couture, helps out part-time in both stores. “She loves chatting with the clients,” he says, with customer service being a key part of the store environment.

Giffard currently employees 11 sales staff, including family members, whose main function might be equated with that of grandmother Couture’s. “They need good product knowledge, including gemmology,” says Lavoie. “But mostly, they need to be good listeners and chat with the customers.”

Small-Town Future“Small-town retail jewellers face special challenges. We need to develop a special relationship with the customers,” says Lavoie. “We know a lot of our good customers by name. We like talking with people and understanding their reality. In this world of overconsumption, we believe that there is the need to go back to the important things.




We help the customer make the right purchase (or repair) even if the right choice is less profitable for us.” The team believes in honesty and his customers know it. That is why he believes they keep coming back again. “I’m sure we are similar to a lot of nice smaller jewellery stores in Canada. The traffic is less in smaller towns, but we are not only selling jewels and watches. We do a lot of repair, and this helps during the slower periods.”

He also points out the freedom of flexible hours. “One advantage is that we can close one day if we want, or we can shorten the opening hours in the summer. One of the main challenges in having a street location is that we need to continually advertise that we are still there. People are buying more and more in the malls. When we have too many customers in our mall store, we sometimes mention that they can take their time at our other store to see other collections, with more expensive jewels.”

Despite his belief that jewellers will become more accommodating with the products they carry and the varying price of metals affecting business, there’s also the pressing thought of the state of the jewellery industry in general on Lavoie’s mind. “The major challenge facing the jewellery industry is the competition from other luxury segments, such as clothing and electronics,” he explains. “There is not enough advertising from the jewellery industry to compete with the other fields. We need to promote more Canadian products overall and in relation to that, we need to keep a certain level of quality in our jewellery.”

Although the store does radio advertising and sends local flyers, they do not usually advertise discounts. “Our philosophy is to sell at a low price already, so we don’t offer big discounts. We are the kind of store that if you see a product elsewhere at 50-to-70% off, you have good chance to find it at an even lower price (our full price) in our store,” says Lavoie.

The boutique also occasionally has in-store events. For example, when Guy created his first high-end collection with natural gemstones in the Butterfly Cut, “we invited all our best customers to discover the collection in a private evening event with a nice banquet,” says Lavoie. Like many jewellery retail operations today, Giffard prefers to manufacture as much of its own inventory as possible, and emphasizes the importance of store brands. “Of course, we are very proud of our in-house collections,” says Lavoie, but he also points out, “we do keep other standard kids’ collections, and we sell a lot of those pieces too. We believe in stocking a good variety and letting the customer choose. We need to always find new products to show to our customers, and trade shows show us these new styles. We need to rethink or refresh our buying experience to match the new generations.” Lavoie also gives much thought to this new generation, who will no doubt look for other buying avenues and strategies, small town or not. “There is the Internet trend rising. The benefit of buying in a jewellery store as opposed to online is the good service and help. But we believe that the Internet sales will be more problematic in the following years for the retailers if they don’t offer products online.”

With a hometown legacy that’s strong and proud and a successful in-house brand making waves, there’s no doubt Giffard and its style of retailing will stand the test of time for generations to come. [CJ]

Innovative In-House BrandingOne of the most interesting parts of Bijouterie Giffard’s operation is their in-

house Bfly brand that is created and manufactured by a sister company

founded by Stéphane Lavoie, Guy Couture and Couture’s son Elie. The basis

of the line is the Butterfly cut, which was invented by Guy over a two-year

period of experimentation, from 1998 to 2000. The result was the Butterfly

Cut, a 39-facet cut with an arrangement of facets and a shape that combine

to resemble a butterfly — a cut that was later adapted to diamonds. “Guy

brought us on board after a couple of years on his own, trying to start a

company around the cut,” says Lavoie. “He couldn’t do everything himself

— sales, marketing, strategy — so we teamed up and helped him to create

the collection.” The rest, as they say, is history. The brand began as a ladies’

collection, sold only as a store brand, with butterfly-cut natural gemstones

such as amethyst, blue topaz, garnet, citrine, tourmaline, tanzanite and

butterfly diamonds. But it gradually metamorphosed into something else.

“Each year, we were stupefied to see how customers came back to complete

their Butterfly Gem collections, or choose them as a gift for family members,”

says Lavoie. “At that time, we only had collections for women, and it was

the pride of our retail store, but we knew that the potential was much more

important. We rapidly found that the best way to start another aspect to the

business was in the kids market.” It was an immediate success, and Lavoie

believes that is because of the symbolism. “The butterfly is a highly symbolic

creature with universal appeal,” says Stéphane. “Butterflies represent birth,

change and transformation.” The Bfly jewellery collection focuses on what

Lavoie describes as kids’ and girls’ jewellery. “The reason why we chose

the young girls’ category is because of the popularity of the butterflies for

that age group.” Even if the cut is suitable for women’s jewellery, we feel

that the butterfly’s symbolism of life has a stronger meaning as it applies to

babies and young girls, particularly in birthstone collections. What little girl

wouldn’t want a butterfly?” The Butterfly cut, which hit the market just at the

beginning of the era of the custom, specialized cut, has received widespread

recognition, and Couture is widely recognized as a notable lapidary for his

developments. In 2001, he was asked to cut a diamond using the Butterfly

cut from a 26.49-carat rough diamond found in a core sample at the Matane

diamond site in Northern Quebec.




coverstory




The pearl has been through a major transition over the past decade. Once considered a white gem like diamonds, the cultured pearl is now being positioned by many dealers as a coloured stone, with

almost as many hues as sapphire or tourmaline.

Mauve, brown or orange pearls from China now seem more common than classic white akoya pearls from Japan. In fact, plenty of white pearls now come from China too, and they’re grown in freshwater lakes, not saltwater bays, using mussels rather than oysters.

This change in pearl-growing mollusk and locale has meant profound differences in the variety of pearls available on the market. Some of these differences are good, and some not so good. On the one hand, there is greater choice, more quality levels — and more accepted quality levels — and, above all, prices in the pearl market are lower than ever before.

Until about 20 years ago, Japan was the undisputed ruler of the pearl world. It was the Japanese akoya pearl cultivators who set the international standard of pearl beauty. It dictated that pearls should be round, smooth, glossy and, above all, white. There were exceptions to the rule — golden pearls from Burma in the 1950s and ’60s, then black pearls from French Polynesia in the 1970s. But these were mainly limited-edition pearls sold in small, selective markets. The vast majority of pearls remained mainly white.

At some point, however, quantity took precedence over quality among some of Japan’s producers, who overcrowded the waters with nucleated oysters and implemented shortened growing times. By the late 1980s, Japan was producing tons of thin-nacre pearls that could not be expected to last as long as the pearls it had produced in the preceding decades. Worse, environmental mismanagement began to pollute the pristine waters needed for farming.

The Original

Suddenly, it’s a new pearl world again.

By Carol Besler

Beauty

Multi-colour baroque South Sea pearl and freshwater pearl necklace, in 18k yellow gold and yellow and pink sapphires totaling 5.07 carats.

pearlfeature

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And so the stage was set for the rapid emergence of new pearl-producing powers, most notably China, which has transformed aesthetic standards for this gem. Chinese farmers usually get two production cycles out of their pearl-growing mussels. During the � rst cycle, lasting around two years, the emphasis is on round pearls. If harvested pearls are put back in the water for another two-year cycle, empty pearl sacs start generating second-growth free-form pearls of their own accord. Called “petal pearls” because of their � ower-petal shapes, these pearls have found popularity with consumers looking for more individualistic pearls. So have black and white spontaneous-growth saltwater equivalents called “keshi” from Tahiti, Indonesia and Australia.

� e vast majority — about 95% — of pearls produced today come from the fresh waters of China, mainly because production has spiraled out of control. In 2007, China harvested an estimated 1,500 metric tons of pearls, and depending on who you talk to, anywhere between 25% and 50% were useable in jewellery. If converted into strands, that would equal between about 13-million and 26-million of them. � is explains why Chinese pearl-strand prices are so low. According to pearl dealer Bert Frankian of Louis Frankian Jewellers in Toronto, the harvested-to-useable ratio is closer to 25%, at the low end of the range. “� e top quality is not as available as everyone thinks,” says Frankian. “You can get the kind of freshwater pearls that are white, with top lustre and round shape — pearls that roll on a tabletop without wobbling — but they’re as rare as the top akoyas.”

Strand of multi-coloured pastel freshwater pearls in various shapes, from Imperial Deltah, New York.

A PEARL PRIMER

Most CJ readers already know the basics of pearl type and quality, but it never hurts to have a short reminder. Use it as crib notes on the store fl oor when customers come in asking for information.

Cultured pearls are cultivated by inserting a nucleus into a mollusk living in either freshwater or saltwater. Freshwater pearls are any pearls from freshwater mollusks.Akoya pearls are cultured saltwater pearls from the akoya oyster.Black Tahitian pearls are large, dark pearls grown in French Polynesia.South Sea pearls are large pearls cultivated in the warm South Sea between northern Australia and southern China.Nacre (also known as mother-of-pearl) is the compound secreted by the oyster that forms the pearl. Cultured freshwater pearls are solid nacre. Cultured saltwater pearls have a nucleus and then many layers of nacre, the number and thickness of which infl uence the quality of the pearl. Solid nacre is not necessarily better; freshwater pearls are still inexpensive despite being solid nacre since they are easy to cultivate and often baroque instead of round.Luster is the soft, satiny sheen of a pearl, traditionally a major factor in determining its worth. Colour Body colour refers to the main colour (white, pink, black, etc.), while overtone refers to washes of colour that augment the body colour (ie: gold or rose overtones). Colour is a factor in matching for strands, although mixed-colour strands are becoming very popular, as are mixed-species (combining fresh and saltwater pearls).Orient Orient, or iridescence, is infl uenced by the layering and thickness of nacre; a large number of very thin layers will produce the nicest pearls.Surface Traditionally, the more blemish-free the pearl, the more valuable it is. Small blemishes, such as a spots or bubbles, are not as serious as structural faults like chips or cracks. Today, naturally grooved, or “circle,” pearls (Tahitian black pearls, for example) are also acceptable and look great.Shape Round or near-round pearls are the most desirable according to tradition, but some people feel that off-round or irregular shapes (baroque) are just as beautiful. Ask your supplier about “petal pearls” and “keshi” (spontaneous-growth pearls with free-form shapes). Size Pearl value rises exponentially with size. All other factors being equal, a very large pearl will cost far more than a small pearl.

pearlfeature




pearlfeature

Most Chinese freshwater pearls are naturally white, peach and lilac. Many farmers expand the range of colour by dyeing freshwater pearls, but if they are white, mauve or peach, the colour is usually natural. But “colour is a matter of taste,” says Frankian. “Some of these new colours, particularly those which are dyed, are undesireable. Most people who are looking for � ne jewellery still prefer white.”

The main advantage of freshwater pearls, everyone agrees, is price. Chinese freshwaters can be immensely a� ordable. But Frankian argues “there is no margin. It’s too competitive. It’s like a game of limbo — how low can you go? And you can’t win, because someone can always go lower.” He adds, “there is huge overproduction. Everyone who has a swamp can grow pearls, and the tendency is to overstock the waters, so there isn’t enough plankton to feed them all.”

Still, the emergence of China as the world’s leading pearl producer has brought unprecedented pearl diversity, to the extent that the pearl as a gem species seems to have been reinvented. Top quality pearls, however, remain rare and at the end of the day, are still the most sought-after. [CJ]

Pearl Advertisers in this issue

Pandora Jewelleryt: 410.309.0200w: www.pandora-jewelry.com

Jomarkt: 905.264.0400

MCD Pearlst: 416.368.2690w: www.mcdpearls.com

Siffarit: 416.441.1010w: www.siffari.com

Stullert: 337.262.7700w: www.stuller.com

J.S.N. Jewelleryt: 800.470.7374w: www.jsnjewellery.com

Mirage t: 877.BY.MIRAGEw: www.miragecreations.com

“The main advantage of freshwater pearls,

everyone agrees, is price.”

These chocolate, golden, white and peach/pink coloured strands demonstrates the wide variety of colours available in freshwater pearls. From Imperial Deltah, New York.

An assortment of freshwater pearls, fresh from the water, courtesy of Honora, New York.



www.pandora-jewelry.com

www.mcdpearls.com

www.siffari.com

www.stuller.com

www.jsnjewellery.com

www.miragecreations.com



The winners of the 2009 Excellence in Design Awards, Canada’s only jewellery design competition, were announced on September 14th at a reception hosted by Canadian Jeweller

magazine at JCK Toronto. For the over 100 guests, it was a chance to honour some of Canada’s most talented fine jewellery designers. For the finalists in the competition, it was an opportunity to gain recognition for their creativity and craftsmanship.

Excellence in Design attracted over 60 entries in five categories from jewellery designers across the country. Three finalists in each category — Diamonds, Canadian Diamonds, Pearls, Platinum and Coloured Gemstones — were chosen by a prestigious panel of judges that included: John Thompson, Director of Sales and Operation, Birks and Mayors, Toronto; Martha Glenny, Jewellery Design Professor, George Brown College; Mayur Davé, President, Mayur Davé Gems and Designs; Peter Stein, President, MCD Pearl Imports and Norbert Brinkhaus, Proprietor, Brinkhaus Jewellers. The judges then selected an overall winner in each category.

The designs were judged on the following criteria: originality, creativity, beauty, wearability and quality of workmanship, with further consideration given to marketability. A highlight of the Toronto jewellery trade show, the awards reception was attended by jewellery designers Varouj Tabakian, Jewellery by Varouj; Michael daCosta, Fortunes Fine Jewellery and Herman Hess, Foresite Fine Jewellery, all of Toronto, as well as Durga Chokhani of London and Noam Hakak of Montreal. Also attending were judges Martha Glenny, Peter Stein, and Mayur Davé along with jewellery industry notables such as Adom Knadjian, Backes and Strauss Ltd.; Peter Myerson, Myerson’s Ltd.; Ken Mulhall, Canadian Jewellers Association and Alex Barcados, C.D. Barcados Co. Ltd.

The winners in each category were announced by Norma Meneguzzi Spall, coordinator of the Excellence in Design Competition, with Olivier Felicio, Publisher of Canadian Jeweller, presenting the awards. Here’s a look at the 2009 Excellence in Design Award winners and Honourable Mentions in each category:

Celebrating Canadian jewellery with the Excellence In Design 2009 competition at JCK Toronto.

By Norma meNeguzzi Spall

Leaders of the Pack

excellenceindesign

056-061.CJ_Excellence_re.indd 49 11/4/09 4:12:45 PM



HONOURABLE MENTION

Durga Chokhani

karat Fine Jewellery, lonDon, on

Scalloped-Edge Diamond NecklaceScalloped bands of 14k white gold feature 28 round brilliant-cut diamonds weighing 0.63tcw and a 0.42ct pear-shaped chocolate-coloured diamond, plus a 0.44ct pear-shaped champagne-coloured diamond. The pendant hangs from a delicate 14k white gold chain.

DIAMONDS WINNER

MiChael DaCosta

Fortunes Fine Jewellers, toronto

Diamond Hair BroochThis whimsical hair brooch, a throwback to a romantic period of days gone by, is handmade and features 84 round brilliant-cut diamonds weighing 1.30cts.

HONOURABLE MENTION

DaviD Blitt

troy shoppe Jewellers, Calgary

Diamond and Gold RingThree round brilliant-cut diamonds emerge from a nest of 18k rose gold with platinum accents in this 18k white gold ladies’ ring. Bands of diamonds add brilliant highlights for a total diamond weight of 1.14cts.




excellenceindesign

PLATINUM WINNER

Alfredo AlvArez

Aurum designs, ToronTo

A Swirl of Platinum Elegance A swirl of platinum set with 33 diamonds of 0.66tcw hugs a 2.68ct green tourmaline in this elegant ladies’ ring.

HONOURABLE MENTION

HermAn Hess

foresiTe Jewellers, ToronTo

Double-decker Platinum RingA boldly designed double-decker, platinum ring features a natural blue square-cut sapphire, bezel-set in a raised square setting and surrounded by round brilliant-cut diamonds totalling 0.47ct. The bottom shank of the ring is set with a centre line of fancy yellow diamonds and 58 round brilliant-cut white diamonds on either side totalling 1.37tcw.

HONOURABLE MENTION

micHAel dAcosTA

forTunes fine Jewellers, ToronTo

Art-Nouveau Inspired Platinum NecklaceThis art-nouveau inspired handmade platinum floral necklace is adaptable to take alternate centre pieces. The necklace contains 110 round stones made up of green tourmaline, tsavorites and emeralds, along with 24 natural fancy

yellow diamonds weighing 0.60tcw and white diamonds weighing 0.72tcw.




CANADIAN DIAMONDS WINNER

LLyn StreLau

JeweLS By DeSign, CaLgary

Diamond and Gold Cuff BraceletA bezel-set, excalibur cut diamond is strategically placed between an open and solid cuff in this polished and bead-blasted 18k yellow and 19k white gold bracelet. The cuff is hinged at the top and locked by spring action at the bottom.

HONOURABLE MENTION

MiChaeL DaCoSta

FortuneS Fine JeweLLerS, toronto

Trembling Diamond Top RingTrembling diamond tops weighing 0.90tcw are accented by 22 round brilliant-cut diamonds weighing 0.10tcw in this fanciful ladies’ 18k yellow and white gold ring that has movement and style.

HONOURABLE MENTION

MyLeS MinDhaM

MinDhaM Fine JeweLLery, toronto

Fluid Diamond Drop EarringsPure elegance aptly describes these fluid Canadian diamond drop earrings featuring two diamonds, each weighing 0.33ct, two round brilliant-cut diamonds, each weighing 0.10ct, and two round brilliant-cut diamonds, each weighing 0.04ct. The Canadian diamonds burst like shooting stars in the centre of the drop and are enhanced by 152 round brilliant-cut diamonds in a bead setting, weighing 0.98tcw.




PEARLS WINNER

Herman Hess

Foresite Jewellers, toronto

Pearl Choker and Earring SetSilver-grey and pink-rose pearls interspersed with diamonds are delicately balanced on 14k white gold wires creating a softly romantic choker and matching earrings.

HONOURABLE MENTION

mark katzeFF

mark katzeFF GoldsmitH inc., edmonton

Mother-of-Pearl and Tahitian Pearl NecklaceThis modern necklace features a 14k white gold pendant inlaid with mother-of-pearl and a 0.04ct bezel-set, round brilliant-cut diamond. A Tahitian pearl tops off a pavé strip containing 19 round brilliant-cut diamonds, giving the necklace a futuristic appeal.

HONOURABLE MENTION

wanda Jane woycenko

treasurers Fine Jewellers, Bonnyville, aB

Tahitian Pearl EntrapmentA beautiful Tahitian pearl is entrapped in 14k white gold, accented with micro pavé-set diamonds totalling 0.45ct. The uniqueness of the ring is how the pearl rolls to highlight the varying hues of the pearl’s nacre.

excellenceindesign




COLOURED GEMSTONES WINNER

Noam Hakak

Noam Carver FiNe Jewellery, moNtreal

Candy Floss Inspired Gemstone RingA 14k white gold ring takes on the look of candy floss with a rare uvarovite garnet and a pink colbalto calcite. A strip of round brilliant-cut diamonds of 0.24tcw separate the two stones. Pink sapphires of 0.65tcw and tsavorite weighing 1.04tcw are added as accents.

HONOURABLE MENTION

mark katzeFF

mark katzeFF GoldsmitH iNC., edmoNtoN

Slate and Blue Zircon Pendant/BroochThe use of slate gives this 14k yellow and white gold pendant/brooch an organic backdrop for a 2.50ct round blue zircon and nine yellow, bezel-set sapphires.

HONOURABLE MENTION

varouJ tabakiaN

Jewellery by varouJ, toroNto

Geometric Gemstone RingThis handmade, custom-designed ring showcases two geometric-shaped, laser-cut tourmalines — one pink at 6.50ct and the other green at 3.50ct. A 1.80ct checkerboard-cut tapered citrine baguette is set on one side of the shank, while a 0.10ct diamond baquette is added for accent.

excellenceindesign



industrybuzz

The Excellence in Design Awards reception was a recognition of the Canadian jewellery industry’s culture and craftmanship. Attended by more than 100 guests including some of the industry’s top designers, the night was a resounding successs.

Excellence In Design AwardsSeptember 14, 2009

From left to right, top to bottom:1. From Left: Herman Hess (Foresite Jewellers), Varouj Tabakian (Jewellery by Varouj), Michael daCosta (Fortunes Fine Jewellery), Durga Chokhani (Karat Fine Jewellery Design), Olivier Felicio (Canadian Jeweller magazine) and Noam Hakak (Noam Carver Fine Jewellery). 2. Durga Chokhani and Olivier Felicio.3. Coloured Gemstones winner Noam Hakak and Olivier Felicio.4. Pearl category winner Herman Hess and Olivier Felicio.





The story of J.S.N. is a Horatio Alger tale set in the real world. Founded in Toronto in 1985, the company is the brainchild of Joseph Shilon, a Georgian who was forced to leave his homeland

with little more than a suitcase during the period of Soviet anti-Jewish policies. He first relocated to Israel, becoming a diamond cutter at the age of 15, and eventually settled in Canada.

“He started working for a few houses, and then went off on his own. It’s a true ‘Canadian Dream’ story,” says Steve Reale, Director of International Sales and Marketing for J.S.N. Jewellery Inc. “Now, he considers himself truly Canadian, and this is his only home. He has said he would never leave; we’ve been pressured to go to London or New York, but he wants to remain here.”

Survivor StoryMine to market, J.S.N. does it all.By Sarah B. hood

Contemporary colour stone ring with Canadian white diamonds

050-051.CJ_Company_re.indd 56 11/3/09 4:06:54 PM


companyprofi le


Since its founding, J.S.N. has grown into a world leader in jewellery manufacturing. “It’s solely based on Joseph; he’s such a visionary and so ahead of his time. What he’s always focused on is a� ordable luxury jewellery for everyone,” says Reale. “He is still considered the new kid on the block here, but to the rest of the world, the company is as known as a true heavyweight.” J.S.N. has just been invited to show in Hall 2 at BaselWorld next spring, which he says is, “an extreme privilege; you’re there with all the powerhouses.”

From corporate head offices in Toronto, J.S.N. coordinates business activities and distribution in more than 20 countries. European a� airs are managed from a London o� ce. A recently opened o� ce in Washington will handle U.S. and international duty-free business, while a Bangkok o� ce and a sales o� ce in Mumbai support dealers in the Paci� c Rim.

� e company makes substantial diamond purchases annually. About 20% of these are Canadian diamonds, through Harry Winston’s share of the Diavik mine; these stones are all sold in the North American market under the brand name of Canadian Ice Diamonds. J.S.N. is also a non-Canadian diamond siteholder.

Among the first Canadian manufacturers to embrace offshore production, the company began manufacturing in Bangkok in 1996, and has recently opened a diamond cutting facility in Chiang Mai, � ailand. With room for 3,000 cutters, the Chiang Mai plant will handle all the company’s diamond cutting.

J.S.N.’s customers include Goldsmith/Mappin Webb in the U.K. and Signet, along with Fred Meyer in the U.S. “We also deal with all the Canadian majors,” says Reale. “In Canada and the U.S., we have over 550 independent retailers.”

Even during the recent economic downturn, the company has not faltered. “Joseph has always said that his style is set to thrive in tough economic times, because he provides jewellery based on the market,” says Reale.

“Joseph says people can look at this downturn with fear or as a great opportunity. As people started walking away from Canadian sites, we actually increased our business. � e philosophy is: if someone is going to be buying jewellery, they’re going to be buying it from our retailers,” he says. “Our second most popular area would be the U.K., and the U.K. was one of the most a� ected by this economic downturn, but we haven’t been hurt by it. It shows how our product turns and how strong a company we are.”

A critical element in the success of the company has been its approach to marketing and merchandising, which has not been afraid to borrow tactics from other industries. For instance, “my background is in the food industry, so I’ve been trying to bring some food strategies into jewellery, and I think it’s been successful,” says Reale.

Steve Reale & J.S.N. Asian team with Mr. & Mrs Ron Hoffman (Canadian Ambassador to Thailand) at offi cial launch of Canadian Ice Diamonds at the Bangkok International Fair.

“He is still considered the new kid on the block here, but to the rest of the world,

the company is known as a true heavyweight.”

050-051.CJ_Company_re.indd 57 11/2/09 10:26:54 AM



J.S.N. pours enormous energy into supporting its retailers. “We provide them not only with a product, but also with a strategy,” he says. “We do a full catalogue support system; we kind of shocked the industry in 2003 by offering loss-leader strategies, and we have great Christmas promotions.”

When Reale first came into the jewellery industry, he says, he was surprised to see how little attention was paid to catalogues. “In 2003, when I came to the business, I saw very generic jewellery catalogues,” he says.

“We have more of a theme: this year we’re using ‘Diamond Wonderland.’ We just launched our Canadian diamond; what better than an Ice Princess feel?” Of course, “At the end of the day, I don’t really want to sell the catalogues, I want to sell jewellery,” he qualifies, “but our competition isn’t other jewellers: it’s iPods; it’s jackets; it’s fashion. We have to make our advertising as alluring as other industries.”

Women are key drivers of jewellery sales, and also make up the largest proportion of magazine industry consumers, Reale points out. Therefore it makes sense to use a magazine format to sell jewellery.

“It’s done incredibly well for our retailers that have bought into it,” Reale says. “The jewellers constantly say it’s our marketing tools that help bring people into our stores. What’s nice is when one of our competitors says ‘You know, your catalogue was great.’”

The promotional material uses numerous ploys that are rarely associated with jewellery sales, Reale admits. “We’ve done scratch-and-wins; we’ll do anything we can to sell jewellery. We want to show them that we’re on the leading edge, and we jump to another campaign every year.”

One catalogue allowed consumers to add a sticker to the catalogue that said ‘I love it!’ or ‘I want it!’” In that case, Reale says, one store reported a customer coming in to make a purchase for his wife based on the sticker: “They had kept the catalogue in the household for over one month.”

J.S.N. has also created jewellery at a wide range of price points. One initiative in this regard is a brand of family jewellery called Always and Forever, which lets consumers pick out the birthstones of family members for rings and pendants. On Mother’s Day, each piece is packaged with a card and a pink ribbon informing the recipient that a portion of proceeds will go to the Breast Cancer Society of Canada.

For the lower price-point jewellery, J.S.N. developed a custom countertop display tower. “A lot of jewellers thought it was maybe too much like a department store presentation,” Reale says, “but we were seeing too many non-jewellers making money from jewellery. Now no one has to go outside our industry to buy their jewellery — people would much rather buy their jewellery from a great jewellery store.”

Another line, called Lulu London, takes advantage of technical advances in the area of electroforming. “We’re one of the handful of people in the world who can actually do diamond-set electroforming,” says Reale. Because the weight of gold is so slight in these pieces, “you’re able to get this big look and these incredible price points; that technology is only getting better every year, and it really has a place in the market over the next few years.”

Ultimately, he says, “The whole premise of our company, no matter what success we have, is always based on Joseph’s inspiration. He’s a grandfather with the energy of a 15-year-old, and jewellery is his passion; he truly loves this business.”

Shilon and his business also have a passion for Canada and the local industry. “It’s great that our international business has brought us onto the world stage, but we are a Canadian business; Canada is our home,” says Reale.

“We’ve got to band together and figure out how to make our industry strong,” he says. “We need to take care of our industry. If we build a strong industry, we’re all good.” [CJ]

companyprofile

Left: All-Canadian comfort-fit anniversary bands.

Right: Three-stone loose-linked pendant.

050-051.CJ_Company_re.indd 58 11/2/09 10:27:14 AM


It took some global travel and a fairytale childhood to inspire Manya Tessler’s whimsical creations that are sure to become future trends in jewellery design. The 34-year-old Tessler grew up in Philadelphia,

where her father used to read “The Owl & The Pussycat,” along with other Edward Lear poems. While attending Wesleyan University in Pennsylvania, the young student studied abroad in Rome at the Tyler School of Art for one semester. Most college summers were spent in Mexico, except for the months she worked at Maison des Jeunes in Montréal co-teaching photography to children. Upon graduation, Tessler journeyed to Japan where she taught Spanish and English, ultimately moving back to the

East coast to New York City. In 2004, Manya began freelancing for a Brooklyn toy company and it’s in Brooklyn today where Manya lives with her husband Roumen Vragov, whom she married in 2006. Together they formed Manya & Roumen, LLC, a jewellery design company that began on Valentine’s Day of this year, where each piece tells its own story and each wearer interprets the story in their own way. Still new to the scene, the duo has already won the 2009 Mort Abelson New Designer of the Year Award at the JA NY Summer Show and received honourable mention at the WJA Diva Awards in the Canadian Diamond Diva category. There’s no doubt more accolades are set to come for this design team.

Only nine months old, CJ introduces the newest name in jewellery design: Manya & Roumen.

By Bonnie Siegler

Rising Stars

“Goose Cuff,” in sterling silver and oxidized silver, with 18k yellow gold beak and pink sapphire eye.


designerprofile

053-055.CJ_Designer_re.indd 59 11/2/09 10:28:09 AM


Canadian Jeweller (CJ): You wrote a children’s book, “Yuki’s Ride Home” — how did writing that book influence your jewellery’s originality?

Manya: It helped me to develop animal characters with personality and attention to detail. Also when I add colour, using gemstones, the designs are not just a simple sculpture. Right now I’m working on a chameleon ring in both gold and silver versions. With the silver, I want to use earthy stones like turquoise, so they’re vibrant stones, but not glittery.

CJ: In looking at your rings and other designs, it looks like certain fables and fairytales are seen throughout your work. Which ones influenced your creativity and what stories were your favourites growing up?

Manya: One of my rings is called “The Owl and the Pussycat” and my dad read that story to me a lot. “Where The Sidewalk Ends” was another favourite. It’s a lot of poetry with many line drawings. I create pieces that invoke wonder and intrigue, and recreate pieces like the perfect curve of a swan’s neck.

CJ: What are some other inspirations for your designs?

Manya: My husband and I visited Barcelona two summers ago and we saw this wonderful graffiti on the shop shades. They had unique takes on everything from animals to people. So illustrative graffiti is an idea that stimulates me. Also, watching YouTube inspired me into making my husband’s wedding ring, which is two entwined buffalo. The video shows a little buffalo snatched by a crocodile while the two other larger buffalo run off. In seconds, hundreds and hundreds of buffalo come back to rescue the baby. It’s really quite beautiful.

CJ: Why do you design and carve your jewellery pieces out of wax before casting them in metal?

Manya: I used to do clay sculptures and build miniature sets, then photograph them. So I feel comfortable working with clay, but the wax is even better because it’s harder so you can carve it while the definition and detail remain. I enjoy the carving more than the polishing of the pieces.

CJ: Do you prefer textured finished pieces or smooth ones?

Manya: It depends on the piece. For the chameleon ring I’m working on, I want him to be textured because they have that reptilian skin but I did a snail ring and the shell is textured, but the snail’s body is smooth. I hope the cool smoothness of the metal feels good against the skin while the textured metals stimulate.

CJ: I’ve looked at a few of your pieces and wanted to ask you about the influence behind the design and how you hope the wearer will feel. One is the “Grove Snail Ring” with 14 opals and ruby in 18k gold.

Manya: I chose the opals because I wanted a stone that would resemble dewdrops, with a story that it’s first thing in the morning with dewdrops on a snail. I find beauty in a lot of things that others find strange or ugly. And the ruby is his eye.

“Great Blue Heron Ring” in 18k yellow gold with ruby and tsavorite garnet.

“Celestial Eye Goldfish ring” in 18k yellow gold with two swiss blue topazes.




CJ: “The Raven and Berries Ring” has a black diamond, seven rubies and a black pearl. What is the inspiration for this piece?

Manya: That one is inspired by the fable, “The Raven and The Fox.” The rubies represent berries, black diamond is the eye of the raven and black pearl is representative of the moon.

CJ: “The Goose Cuff ” is unique and it veers away from your usual 18k gold to sterling silver.

Manya: A page in my children’s book is a birds-eye view of birds and there they are seagulls. Instead of doing a seagull, I ended up depicting a goose. But I hope to do a seagull for the winter designs.

CJ: What do you see jewellery trends embracing this winter?

Manya: I’m not really up on trends, though I do read fashion magazines. I’m always hoping the trend goes towards big jewellery pieces because I like making them. As for my new designs for the winter, there’s the chameleon ring I spoke about, and a mouse ring. He’s going to look like he’s perched on the wearer’s finger and eating a grain of rice or corn, so I’ll use a pearl for that.

CJ: You’ve lived in almost every corner of the world, but what area would you say has contributed the most to your originality, imagination and design?

Manya: Rome, because of the sculptures, but then every place has its own inspiration for me. When I lived in Japan, I was really motivated by nature because I was living by the ocean and was inspired by all the life around the water. Montreal’s influence was the time spent with children, so maybe that’s where I got some of my whimsical ideas. But if it’s whimsy or originality or whatever, we hope that each piece makes the wearer feel special and maybe elicits curiosity with others. [CJ]

“Grove Snail Ring” in 18k yellow gold, with 14 opals and a ruby.


designerprofile

ever-gorgeous

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Let your sales message sustain

Brand your store(s)


educationaL




RevolutionaryRoad The curious and growing world

of online learning.

By AmBer KlAehn


062-063.CJ_Tech_re2.indd 62 10/29/09 1:24:19 PM


techfeature


E very September, I find myself gazing wistfully at students going back to school and wish I were joining them. I miss the anticipation of exciting courses, new teachers and classmates,

buying school supplies and breaking the spine on pristine textbooks. I may not have appreciated it in high school or university, but today I crave the pursuit of knowledge, and I continue to sign up for at least one new learning opportunity every year.

These days, my classroom is at my desk. I have exchanged textbooks for the world of online learning. And it is an exciting new world.

The way we live, work and think have all been irreversibly altered by technology. Education is no different. E-learning is the latest trend in technological advances, making learning easy, current, flexible and cost-effective. More importantly, it’s good for business. Leading companies recognize that education is not a one-time event, but that learning needs to be a continuous and integral part of work and life. Education keeps employees up-to-date with developments, and enhances performance and job satisfaction. Business success is more and more dependent upon high-quality employees who are able to provide premium service learned through ongoing, effective training programs. As retailers, we need to know more than ever before. And we need the ability to process new information at a faster pace to keep up with consumers who are increasingly knowledgeable due to the Internet. In this economy, we face a major challenge to keep our staff current and proficient.

E-learning is the answer. The trend toward e-learning is booming because it addresses organizations’ growing learning needs. E-learning delivers efficient and flexible training methods. It is convenient, cost-effective and enables customized content.

In the jewellery industry, e-learning has applications for customer-service training, product knowledge and professional development. Suppliers are showcasing their product specifications in high-tech formats. The American Gem Society now has certification online.

Courses can be tailored to meet your organization’s specific needs and requirements. Specific data such as your own policies, procedures and contact information can be added to greatly increase the relevance of the training experience.

The concept of e-learning offers uniformity and consistency in course material and delivery. In classroom courses, delivered at different times

or by different instructors, the material delivered and emphasis of content is subject to more variance. With e-learning, all trainees see and hear exactly the same subject matter.

Another benefit of e-learning is that an employee’s progress can be automatically tracked, including the dates and time spent in a course, and scores on any exams. Tests can be used to continually assess a student’s knowledge, and to suggest areas of focus where additional learning is required.

With access from anywhere at anytime, employees can train when it is convenient for them. They can learn at home or the office, and continue at a learning pace that is comfortable for them. A known benefit of being able to proceed at one’s own pace is that the trainee learns the material more thoroughly and experiences significantly higher rates of retention than in classroom learning. Online courses also offer a variety of delivery methods to help enhance learning and retention. Audio, videos, graphics and scrolling text accommodate different learning styles and provide students with numerous ways to absorb course content. Interactive games, multiple choice, true/false and fill-in-the-blank tests all engage the user for a better learning experience. With these methods, students learn the right answers and can be provided with explanations for wrong answers.

We are also starting to see more use of virtual classrooms and audio/video conferencing. These instructor-led, online learning sessions provide an opportunity for all of the participants to log on at the same time and communicate with the instructor and other students.

With e-learning, employees no longer need to be away from work for extended periods of time while attending courses. This results in direct savings from reduced travel expenses, as well as time and opportunity loss.

With traditional training methods, companies generally spend more money on expenses, such as f lights and hotels, than on the actual training programs. If lost opportunity is taken into account, the actual costs of training are even higher. Time spent travelling and in classrooms is time when staff is unable to perform daily work requirements, and increases the potential of missed sales while associates are off the sales floor.

Live, classroom-based training is becoming too cost-prohibitive and burdensome. Trainers and consultants can be expensive, not to mention the inconvenience of getting the instructor and students together in the same place at the same time. It is also often too expensive and disruptive to send all employees for training at once because it lessens the effectiveness of the intended results. E-learning enables group learning with less disruption, at lower cost.

All in all, it’s no surprise that technology plays a very important role in education and learning. E-learning’s popularity is rapidly growing as a delivery method of training, and most companies are finding that including it in their overall learning strategy offers clear benefits. [CJ]

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fi nancefeature

One Step Ahead Attracting top talent to your small business.BY HOWARD GROSFIELD

constant challenge for small businesses, not just in the Canadian jewellery industry, but across the board, is how to � nd and hold onto the best employees. � e issue is even more signi� cant in

a down economy when small business owners’ time and money may already be spread thin.

Attracting new employees is much like attracting new customers. It’s not enough to just post an ad with the job requirements anymore; businesses that convey their values, unique bene� ts and create consistent messaging will reach the kind of people right for their position.

� e idea of “employment branding” has become crucial for large and small businesses alike. Why? As the baby-boomer generation approaches retirement, there’ll be more openings for fewer people, and the war for talent will become even more competitive. At the same time, online recruiting is shi� ing the balance of power towards job candidates, who can now research and assess competing o� ers more comprehensively than ever before. With that backdrop, using some or all of the following proactive measures in your hunt for talent can help yield better results.Your website is a powerful recruitment tool.

Job candidates are researching you as deeply as you’re researching them, which means you need to pay attention to what your website says about your company as a place to work. Consider creating an “employment” home page that underscores the advantages of working for your organization. � is is not a listing of job openings but an employment marketing tactic. Talk about some of the “wow” bene� ts you provide. Publish case studies of how people have grown with your company. Help candidates answer the question, “What’s in it for me?”

Think Strategically About Talent One tactic is to think not just about what you need a new employee to do, but what kind of person will do the best job. � at means � rst identifying the strategic goals for your company, and then identifying the talent you’ll need in order to get there — your “people” strategy needs to be part of your “business” strategy.

So having not only a job description, but also a list of ideal personal qualities, including values, culture and ways of working will help pull together a pool of candidates you can tap for both current and future openings.

Know Why People Work for YouRecruiting and retention are inextricably linked, so having a clear picture of your work environment from an employee’s standpoint can help you communicate what it would be like to work for you, and how a prospective employee will � t with your company’s culture.

Ask your employees what they like about working for you. Is it the mutually respectful, fun atmosphere? Great customers? Better quality of life? A � exible work schedule? Less bureaucracy? In other words, what would someone say when asked by an outsider, “What is it like to work there?” Knowing how current employees would answer these questions is critical if you’re using a referral program to recruit.

Make Your Job Ads Stand OutOnce you’ve gathered all that information, it’s good to step back and consider what your job ad will say about your company. Simply listing job responsibilities and needed quali� cations says little to candidates. � e trend towards online job postings means you have much more opportunity to talk not just about the speci� c job, but also the management style culture of your company, work practices, opportunities for career growth and industry recognition and awards. People want to work for “the best” and by speaking about what you o� er employees in return for their work encourages candidates to pursue your company.

Go Beyond Ads, Postings and Job FairsTo build the best candidate pool, you need to broaden recruiting e� orts beyond the tried and true. Talk to people about the types of people you might need — to your current employees, suppliers, customers, and even your neighbours.

Trade shows can be a great opportunity to meet candidates. And generating some good PR that shows your unique work environment — a few nice words in a newspaper or on TV — can start a � ood of resumes.

Bosses o� en talk about how “lucky” they were to � nd a great employee. But by casting a wide net, presenting your company in the best light, and looking at your job vacancy from a prospective employee’s vantage point will help to take luck out of the equation. [CJ]

Howard Grosfi eld is Vice President & General Manager, Small Business Services, American Express Canada & International. The American Express Small Business Monitor is a quarterly survey of small business owners across the country.


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O ver the past year, while the true business world has been tightening its belt, the educational sector has been growing. As experienced workers are laid o� or retire, many turn to colleges

to explore potential new careers. � is is certainly true in the jewellery industry, which, even these days, o� ers attractive opportunities to the entrepreneurially minded-person.

Canada has a network of one-year certificate and two-year diploma programs in jewellery and gemmology, mostly in community colleges focusing on technical cra� skills. � ese include New Brunswick College of Cra� and Design and two major schools in Québec: the École de joaillerie de Montréal and the École de joaillerie de Québec. Ontario has full-time programs at George Brown College in Toronto and Georgian College in Barrie, with some instruction also o� ered at the Canadian Gemmological Association and Fleming College in Haliburton.

British Columbia also has a range of options, including the Canadian Institute of Gemmology, Vancouver Community College and Kootenay School of the Arts at Selkirk College. In the North, Nunavut Arctic College o� ers a jewellery program, while the Yellowknife Campus of Aurora College runs a highly-specialized program in diamond cutting and polishing designed to serve the emerging market created by Canadian mining.

“In Canada, there’s a de� nite distinction between programs that o� er BFA and those that offer two- to three-year programs,” says Greg Merrall, coordinator of the Jewellery and Metals and Goldsmithing programs at Georgian College. He refers to the Ontario College of Art and Design (OCAD) in Toronto, Nova Scotia College of Art and Design University in Halifax and Alberta College of Art and Design in Calgary, which are all � ne art colleges that train original designers rather than craft technicians. “I don’t think they’re competitive; I think they’re complementary,” he says.

Jewellery and gemmology program enrolments are on the rise despite a tightening job market.

BY SARAH B. HOOD

School ReportSchool ReportCard

educationfeature


065-067.CJ_Education_re2.indd 65 10/30/09 10:12:29 AM


Georgian College offers a two-year diploma in Jewellery and Metals and a one-year postgraduate certificate in Goldsmithing and Silversmithing. “Enrolment is up,” Merrall reports. “Our student base is primarily small-town and rural from across the country, so our mix has always included high school graduates, people who have finished college or university and are back at school in their late 20s or 30s, and people who are in their late 40s or early 50s starting a second career.”

This combination provides for “the best learning opportunities for everyone,” Merrall says. “The younger students may be more naive, but they know no boundaries. The more mature students understand time management. Put them all together and you get a great mix.” He adds, “Over 90% of my students get work in the jewellery industry almost immediately.”

However, enrolment is down at the Canadian Institute of Gemmology (CIG) in Vancouver, which offers a flexible program, mainly via distance education, with an Accredited Gemmologist diploma and Diamond Expert or Fine Jewellery Expert certificates.

“We have experienced a considerable drop in enrolment that reflects the situation in the industry,” says CIG Director of Education J. Wolf Kuehn. “We have students ranging in age from 16 up to 82. I find that only about 30% of our students come from the industry, and the other 70% come from the general public.”

At George Brown in Toronto, students can take a one-year certificate in Gemmology or Jewellery Essentials, a two-year diploma in Jewellery Methods, or a three-year diploma in Jewellery Arts. “It’s important that institutions don’t have too much overlap in terms of programs, so that we use our government funding and our resources the best we can, so that we’re not flooding the market,” says Wing-Ki Chan, George Brown’s Coordinator for Jewellery Studies.

“It’s quite well spread in Ontario; George Brown has a very solid technical training reputation. OCAD has a focus on fine arts, and Georgian has lapidary as part of the curriculum; unique to that program,” says Chan, adding that her programs are “very full” this year.

Although manufacturing jobs are less available, “we always have a fair number of students who go into the industry as business owners, as entrepreneurs,” says Chan. “We still have students who go into the industry as bench workers, and I don’t think the number has lessened, but it is more important for graduates to look across Canada. They should take advantage of Canada being a big country and look at jobs in other provinces.”

Like Georgian College, George Brown has always had strong enrolment from mature students. “We have a lot of people coming to our program who have already had two or three careers and raised a family, and now they’re doing something for themselves,” she says. “They bring to the program a lot of business experience that is an adjunct to what they’re learning in the program.”

The Canadian Gemmological Association in Toronto has put some of its courses on hold while undergoing a process of registration with the provincial government that will give the program stronger credentials, reports President Duncan Parker. “We are currently offering a diamond grading course — something there’s a lot of interest in — and a coloured gemstone course. We’re

not offering a diploma program until the certification registration is complete.”




Parker sees diminished demand for employees in the industry, but says registrations are up because of an increase in general interest courses. “Our graduates are not going into a conventional job environment; they may become self-employed or start a business in buying gems. There are people who appraise, consult, sort gemstones or work as gemmologists in retail stores. There are similar trends all over — increased enrolment and decreased demand for conventional employment,” he says.

Students who are part of family businesses also make up a proportion of the student body. “The jewellery industry does tend to be family-related,” says Parker. “In my experience, fewer and fewer of those businesses have people in the next generation wanting to go on in the business-they see how hard and how long their parents are working. However, many students of gemmology are training to work in their family businesses.”

“We don’t get a lot, but certainly it’s a consideration,” says Merrall. “Every small town in Canada has a jewellery store, and those kids have to go somewhere to learn about jewellery.”

“Both in gemmology and jewellery, we have a fair number of students who come from jewellery families,” says Chan. One current student comes from a fifth-generation business: Mitton’s Jewellery in Ridgetown, Ontario. Both last year and this coming spring, the business is hosting an exhibit of student work in partnership with the college. “He’s not the only one; he’s one of the examples,” she says.

Educational institutions can only take students part of the way along their learning path; the industry must also be involved. “A lot of the retail industry doesn’t realize that a trained sales force is important. They are not aware of that; it is neglected,” says Kuehn.

“Employers have to accept some responsibility for training,” says Merrall. “Many people in the industry want specific skill sets, but our job is to provide a more generic, well-rounded education so graduates have a grasp of the whole industry, not just a part of it. While our students are trying to figure out where they fit in, it’s up to us to offer them as many chances for success as we can.”

“It’s important for the programs to be up-to-date and stay current with the industry,” says Chan. “It’s also good that the industry understands the kind of education we give our students so they know their strengths and what additional training they will need to bring them up to speed with the business. The industry needs skilled workers, and the colleges need industry support. We can only be successful if we work together.” [CJ]


educationfeature

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ALBERTAAlberta College of Art and Design:1407-14th Ave NW, Calgary, AB T2N 4R3 T: (403) 284-7600 F: (403) 289-6682W: www.acad.caPrograms: BFA, Major in Jewellery & Metals (four years)Contact: Charles Lewton-Brain, headT: (403) 338-5537E: [email protected]

YUKON, NORTHWEST TERRITORIES, IQALUITAurora College, Yellowknife Campus:Bag 9700, 5004, 54th St, Yellowknife, NT X1A 2R3T: (867) 920-3030, (866) 291-4866W: www.auroracollege.nt.caProgram: Diamond Cutting & Polishing (22 weeks)Contact: Courtney Keenan, instructorT: (867) 873-7585

Nunavut Arctic College - Nunatta Campus:PO Box 600, Iqaluit, NU X0A 0H0T: (867) 979-7200F: (867) 857-7102W: www.nac.nu.caPrograms: Diploma in Jewellery & Metalwork (two years)Contact: Beata Hejnowicz, senior instructorT: (867) 979-7267, (866) 988-4636F: 867-979-7107

BRITISH COLUMBIACanadian Institute of Gemmology - Pacifi c School of Jewellery Arts:Box 57010, Vancouver, BC V5K 5G6T: (604) 530-8569W: www.cigem.caPrograms: Accredited Gemmologist (CIG) Diploma (one- or two-year programs), Diamond Expert (CIG) certifi cate, Fine Jewellery Expert (CIG) certifi cateContact: J. Wolf Kuehn, director of education, T: (604) 530-8569E: [email protected]

Kootenay School of the Arts at Selkirk College:606 Victoria St, Nelson, BC V1L 4K9T: (250) 352-2821, (877) 552-2821F: (250) 352-1625 W: www.selkirk.ca/ksaPrograms: Diploma in Jewellery & Small Object Design (two years), Certifi cate in Metal (one year)Contact: Laura White, chairT: (250) 352-2821 x24E: [email protected]

Vancouver Community College:250 West Pender St, Vancouver, BC V6B 1S9T: (604) 443-8300F: (604) 443-8588W: www.vcc.caPrograms: Jewellery Art and Design Diploma (two years), Gemmology Certifi cation Program (two years, part-time), Canadian Jeweller Jets program from the Canadian Jewellers Association (intensive program in 15 books), Graduate Sales Associate Certifi cation from the Jewellers Education Foundation of the American Gem Society (12 hours), Jewellery electivesContact: Donna Hawrelko, program coordinatorT: (604) 443-8670F: (604) 443-8393

Directory of Canadian Jewellery Education ProgramsORIGINALLY COMPILED BY SARAH B. HOOD

UPDATED BY SUBHA ARULVARATHAN

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www.acad.ca

www.auroracollege.nt.ca

www.nac.nu.ca

www.cigem.ca

www.selkirk.ca/ksa

www.vcc.ca

educationfeature


ONTARIOCanadian Gemmological Association:1767 Avenue RdToronto, ON M5M 3Y8T: 416-785-0962, (877) 244-3090F: 416-785-9043E: [email protected]: www.canadiangemmological.comPrograms: advanced courses, general interest courses

Fleming College’s Haliburton School of the Arts:297 College Dr, PO Box 839 Haliburton, ON K0M 1S0T: (705) 457-1680 x3, (866) 353-6464W: www.haliburtonschoolofthearts.caProgram: Jewellery Essentials (15 weeks intensive)Contact: Jennifer Bain, coordinatorT: (705) 457-1680 x6743E: jbain@fl emingc.on.ca

George Brown College - Jewellery Arts & Gemmology:PO Box 1015, Station B, Toronto, ON M5T 2T9T: (416) 415-2000, (800) 265-2000W: www.georgebrown.caPrograms: Gemmology (one year), Jewellery Arts (three years), Jewellery Essentials (one year), Jewellery Methods (two years)T: (416) 415-5000 x4462E: [email protected]

Georgian College - School of Design & Visual Arts:1 Georgian Dr, Barrie, ON L4M 3X9T: (705) 722-1968F: (705) 722-1531E: www.jewelleryschool.caPrograms: Jewellery & Metals (two-year diploma), Goldsmithing & Silversmithing (one-year postgraduate)Contact: Greg Merrall, coordinatorT: (705) 728-1968, x1287E: [email protected]

Ontario College of Art & Design-Material Art & Design:100 McCaul St, Toronto, ON, M5T 1W1T: (416) 977-6000F: (416) 977-6006W: www.ocad.caProgram: BDes, Major in Jewellery/Metalsmithing (four years)Contact: Beth Alber, Material Arts and Design chairT: (416) 977-6000 x309E: [email protected]

QUÉBECÉcole de joaillerie de Montréal:417 de Maisonneuve Blvd W, 9th fl , Montréal, QC H3A 1L2T: (514) 281-9922, (877) 281-9922F: (514) 281-9933W: www.ecoledejoailerie.comPrograms: Diplôme des Études Collégiales/DEC (three years, offered through Cégep de Vieux-Montréal), Introductory Jewellery Techniques (420 hours: 7 levels of 60 hours each), plus advanced courses, general interest courses Contact: Carole Plante, directorT: (514) 281-9922E: [email protected]

École de Joaillerie de Québec:299, 3e Avenue, local 304 Québec, QC G1L 2V7T: (418) 648-8003F: (418) 648-6235W: www.ecoledejoaillerie.caPrograms: Techniques de Métiers d’art-joaillerie DEC (Jewellery techniques diploma, three years), Le perfectionnement des artisans (professional development, fall or spring sessions), Cours d’initiation à la joaillerie (general interest, 6-15 hours)Contact: Micheline Boucher, directorT: (418) 648-8003E: [email protected]

NEW BRUNSWICKNew Brunswick College of Craft & Design:457 Queen St, PO Box 6000, Fredericton, NB E3B 5H1T: (506) 453-2305F: (506) 457-7352W: www.nbccd.ca/nbccdPrograms: Diploma in Fine Craft, specialty in Jewellery/Metal Arts (two years) Contact: Michael Maynard, principal and academic deanE: [email protected]

NOVA SCOTIANova Scotia College of Art & Design University - Craft Division:5163 Duke St, Halifax, NS B3J 3J6T: (902) 444-9600F: (902) 425-2420W: www.nscad.ns.caPrograms: BFA, Major in Jewellery Design & Metalsmithing (four years)Contact: Heather Harris, administrative secretaryT: (902) 494-8154E: [email protected]

068-069.CJ_EducationDir.indd 69 10/29/09 11:23:03 AM


www.canadiangemmological.com

www.haliburtonschoolofthearts.ca

www.georgebrown.ca

www.jewelleryschool.ca

www.ocad.ca

www.ecoledejoailerie.com

www.ecoledejoaillerie.ca

www.nbccd.ca/nbccd

www.nscad.ns.ca


It’s that time of year again — the third installment of Vicenzaoro. As usual, this year’s Choice exhibit did not disappoint, serving as a platform to push sales and boost orders just in time for the holiday rush. It also serves as a sneak peak of what’s to come in terms of design and

style, with a few treats and updates of current initiatives along the way.

This September’s show saw 1,333 exhibitors, 993 of which were from Italy. Often regarded as a Mecca for jewellery design and gold, it was no surprise that buyers came from far and wide with excitement and anticipation to see the latest offerings from the country. The exhibition area, impressive at 53,000-square-metres, boasted four pavilions showcasing everything from fine and commercial gold ware to precious stones and pearls.

Despite rocky economic outlooks and a major shift within the Italian industry, the marvelous and majestic City Of Gold is shining brighter than ever.

By Paul aguirre

Bright Lights, Gold City Doublet rings in peach gold with

rutile quartz and blue agate, rutile quartz and paste of jade,

rutile quartz and mother of pearl by Roberto Coin.

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showfeature


Shuttle RefinementsOne of the show’s highlights was definitely Gold Expressions 2009, a joint venture between organizing body Fiera di Vicenza and the World Gold Council; it’s one of the Council’s key marketing initiatives to promote the ‘Made in Italy’ product to stimulate global consumer demand. Launched at the January show, the exhibition returned to Vicenza after touring the globe. An interesting point of the project is that it unites the Italian jewellery designers and manufacturers, providing interesting insights into trends and linking retail manufacturers and, eventually, consumers. “Since its launch in 2004, Gold Expressions has established an international reputation for both innovation and creativity, becoming a focal point that enables both media and buyers to identify trendsetting collections,” noted Philip Olden, WGC Managing Director. Interestingly enough, the WGC reported a 25% drop in gold during the first quarter of 2009, while China recorded a growth of 3%; it’s evident that times are shifting.

Trends forecaster Worth Global Style Network provided the perspective on emerging trends, grouping the offerings into three trends: Connect, bridging cultural boundaries for detail, colour and texture; extraOrdinary, reminding us that jewellery is still very much a part of fashion with quality craftsmanship; and Transform, playing heavily on the influences found in nature and translated into a majority of the collections. Another fascinating moment of the show was the “mai sedersi sugli allori” (Never sit down on your laurels) chair sculpture installations by artist Carla Tolomeo. Made from fabric, marble, ceramic and bronze, they illustrated the perfect partnership between design and function, honouring beauty before practicality.

Brand Lab, a new space introduced to promote the world of advertising and marketing, along with retailing and merchandising, was also a hit at the show. It linked retailers and other interested parties to event planners, interior designers, furniture suppliers and security systems. There was also a plethora of other services retailers will most likely need at some point in this new era of retailing, where reaching the consumer by any means possible will become a stronger priority over time — be it a visual courtship from the window or clever invite-only gatherings throughout the year. It called into question the important concept of store redesign — the changing landscape of how consumers view the retail outlet. Retailers need to reassess their possibilities, and this was the perfect venue in which to decide what that may be: a store redesign? Promotional events? Sometimes consumers can be caught up in judging a book by its cover, so a multidimensional approach is now necessary to maintain such an impact. For this, Brand Lab did its job, living up to its “creation, evolution, revolution” motto by offering seminars, meetings and professional advice on these very topics: how do we evolve and change while staying practical? And what about foreign and new exhibitors? According to Domenico Girardi, General Manager of Fiera di Vicenza, because of the recession, there is a change in who the show is courting for future seasons. “Not only more distributors, but also manufacturing companies. Young, new companies and new designers are the future of the business; foreign exhibitors are anticipated to grow from 25% to 35%, but they must be top-of-the-range.”

Enamel and gold earrings by Bliss.

Enamel and gold necklace by Bliss.

070-073.CJ_Vicenza.indd 71 10/29/09 10:56:47 AM



The show itself is also changing, and in retrospect, offered insight into and explored the relationship between customers and retailers. “That is why,” continued Girardi, “we insisted at this show — with workshops and seminars — on the theme of the sales outlet and of the evolution of retailing and consumption models, also thanks to the collaboration with the Italian Gold Jewellery Retailers Federation (Federdettaglianti), which brought 600 operators to Vicenza. In any case, Vicenzaoro Choice’s focus is specifically on the retailing sector.”

Hot TopicsThere was also much talk about intellectual property and economic development at this September’s show, with many discussions and seminars centered on the topic. Organized by the Ministry of Economic Development and the Department for Enterprise and Internationalization in collaboration with several other bodies, including the Intellectual Property Organization, there was a strong focus on discussing a strategy to strengthen business practices and protect intangible assets. Guest speakers included Diego Nardin, Managing Director of Fope Gioielli, and designer Marco Bicego.

However, the standout development out of Italy at the moment isn’t only the country’s designers or stunning creations, but also its objective to enhance and preserve the Italian jewellery sector. And so came the Assicor movement. Developed by the Italian Association of the Chambers of Commerce, it was founded “to promote coordination and productive development of the jewellery, silver and related industries” and presented its Gioiello Italiano (Italian Jewels) project, an integrated communications and marketing project to promote the Made in Italy movement. The project has two objectives: to achieve a unified coordinated image for foreign markets and to create and design promotional tools to push sales in the domestic market. A big part of the Assicor project is to refine and

craft Made In Italy branding as a set of values and a reference for what can be qualified as such, much like organizing bodies do in other industries like natural health or the organic/eco-friendly claim when products are usually awarded an EcoCert or USDA logo. This new “image” was used for the first time last May at the JCK Las Vegas show in the Italian Pavilion, through the design of the Assicor booth and educational documents. The new logo bears a monogram of the letters G and I, in the shades of brown and gold, which has become the distinctive mark of the Italian jewellery industry. In foreign markets, the logo also comes with the motto “Yes, it’s true. Italian Jewellery Culture” underlined with national colours. Consumers want branded jewellery, to help them identify what is what, making for more sound and secure purchasing practices. They feel “safer” buying branded items, and this alliance’s purpose is to help and serve the industry and its people. With 25,000 points of sale in Italy, it’s difficult to ensure authenticity across all sectors, which is important to protect the Italian name, so this new “signature for products” will let consumers and the industry know which brands to trust.

The concept of luxury was also on everyone’s list this show, with many of the industry’s heavyweights voicing their opinions. “The misunderstanding of luxury is that jewellery is an art,” commented hotelier turned jeweller Roberto Coin when he sat down with CJ. “We want to sell class and style at affordable prices.” Starting his business at age 33, he wasn’t born into the industry, but has now made over 50,000 pieces, which is almost 600 new styles/models a year. “We are a family business. We do the sketches, we do the communications. I write all of my press releases. I want people to know these are my thoughts.” When asked about the economic toll on his business, he’s very frank: “My business is always ok. The others can answer that. Everyone has gone down, it’s obvious. Some more, some less.” But with this new evolution of luxury and the direction of the industry, how does he manage to stay ahead? “By making good designs. People copy the past, but they cannot copy the future. This makes me proud when people copy my designs, but I’m not afraid to move forward and see what’s next.” Even Marco Bicego chimed in on the luxury debate. “I believe in everyday luxury, the kind that is very versatile. I want to create pieces a woman can wear with everything from jeans to dresses.”

Damiani Sunflower ring with sapphires, amethyst, quartz and white diamonds.

Romantica ring by Chimento, with black and

white diamonds

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A LOOK AHEAD: 2011 TRENDSWant a look ahead at future trends? For the third year in a row, Fiera di Vicenza has partnered with the TJF Group to uncover the TJF Trendbook 2011+, exclusively previewed at the Choice show. A new addition this year is the inclusion of high-end accessories into the jewellery market. Here’s a look at the megatrends to look out for:

Generation HopeIt’s been said that when we look back in history, the new Obama Generation will be regarded as Generation H for Hope. Emerging from global crisis, design will flourish with inventive, hopeful and inspirational pieces reflecting the brightness of future generations. Expect bright gems, diamond pavés and sun/fire motifs to accompany this trend.

Exotic WonderSummarized as “fascinating though unfamiliar.” Blends with powerful tribal and traditional references come into the mix. Expect wooden elements with circular constructions, accompanied by silver and exotic pearls.

Vintage EternalOriginally a term to replace the word “old”, vintage has been a hot topic in design and culture for the last decade, influencing everything from music to fashion. With old Victorian references, and 1920s ornate jewels, expect a strong influence from technological innovations and creativity to take what’s old and make it new again.

Synchronicity This trend draws on the use of music, video and lighting to create performance art to express mental states and the “hallucinations of the web generation.” Borrowed from the 1912 American art movement, this term “summarizes the research into aesthetic and culture harmony associated with music.”

For the moment, there is naturally a heavy influence in gold coming out of Italy. As a main metal used, gold represents about 80% of what was shown in various collections. There was also a lot of emphasis placed on silver collections, as it’s the most affordable and accessible metal now to bring in new consumers that will one day be able to afford other collections. Another big trend was jewellery for children, fun and playful. Italy has always had a very high-fashion drive, mixing elements of fine jewellery with elements of fashion jewellery, but in high-quality and precious materials. Big chunky necklaces in brushed gold came from Nanis while over-the-top chains and rings were big sellers for Hong Kong and Emirates regions from Marco Bicego.

Alessandro Pagliami, Regional Sales Manager for Chimento, also believes in accessibility with the introduction of its new CHOICE collection in silver, aimed at a younger crowd with less disposable income. “In 2008, we had fewer sales, it was obviously not going well for everyone. But in 2009, we focused on market share and getting the word out there, getting our pieces out there,” with the U.S. and Americas as the second most important market on their agenda. By far, this show’s success story has to be Lui-Jo. With a huge following in Italy, the brand has now opened up to foreign markets in Holland, Belgium and Dubai, with Canada and the U.S. on the horizon. What makes their story exciting is that the company has increased sales dramatically in two years, and is forecasted to sell 7,000,000 over Christmas, up from 800,000 in 2007. Last year, the company sold 3,000,000, so it’s evident that its philosophy of selling in speciality boutiques with a wide range of materials and styles for both men and women is clearly working for them.

What’s Next?The Choice show was no doubt a resounding success as final numbers are promising. At a moment when Italy’s gold sector is in question, there was a 28% increase in the number of buyers compared to the September 2008 show, with a total of 13,670: 9,413 Italian and 4,257 from abroad. “We are satisfied with the result,” noted Girardi, “a figure which should be analyzed in depth, bearing in mind that the operators at the autumn fair traditionally come from Italy, in particular, and Europe in general: these are the markets that order quantities ahead of the end-of-year festivities. Compared with Choice 2008, the European countries with the highest number of operators include Spain (with a 7.4% increase), France (at 43%) and Germany (at 9.74%). The Greek presence was also highly significant.”

So it would seem that the City of Gold can rest assured it will stay on top of the jewellery market for the time being. There are a lot of interesting things coming out of Italy at the moment, from new designers to new initiatives, and the best is yet to come, but only time will tell. Stay tuned, Vicenzaoro First will debut on January 16, 2010 and guarantees to build on the strength, growth and creativity of, as the Italians would say, gioiello Italiano. [CJ]

Romantica necklace and earrings by Chimento.

070-073.CJ_Vicenza.indd 73 11/3/09 4:10:20 PM



Fall ForwardAs we enter a new season, we look at the trends that will set the tone for the months ahead. BY BONNIE SIEGLER

� e end of summer brought out young, beautiful Hollywood stars sizzling in some of the newest trends in jewellery design. While stars sipped on bikini-body friendly cocktails, there was nothing low-calorie about their bling. From fancy coloured diamonds to pink sapphires, jewels sparkled and dazzled in the sizzling setting sun.

Dexter star Julie Benz chose a pair of platinum and diamond � ower drop earrings to wear at the 15th Annual Screen Actors Guild Awards in Los Angeles. � e earrings (valued at US $30,000) revealed 2.10 carats of white diamonds and 30 carats of black diamonds.

Kristen Bell is a girl about town lately — on small and big screens, as well at all of the hottest events. For the 35th Annual Saturn Awards in Los Angeles, the star donned a Le Vian chocolate and white pavé diamond domed ring set in 14k yellow gold valued at US $6,248.

Dexterand diamond � ower drop earrings to wear at the 15th Annual Angeles. � e earrings (valued at US $30,000) revealed 2.10 carats of white diamonds and 30 carats of black diamonds.

Julie Benz

Kristen Bell

074-075.CJ_StarWatch_re.indd 74 10/29/09 12:02:43 PM


Though she isn’t considered a youth anymore, Demi Moore continues to look amazing, maybe even better

than decades ago. At the premiere of her hubbie Ashton Kutcher’s movie Spread in Hollywood,

the ageless actress chose a pair of Neil LanePlatinum diamond and gold earrings

valued at US $3,500.

Evan Rachel Wood dazzled at the Cinema Society screening of her new film Whatever Works in New York choosing Neil Lane’s fancy coloured diamond and platinum cu� bracelet.

Evan Rachel Wood

Demi Moore


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what’son

upcoming eventsEvery effort has been made to publish accurate information but please contact show organizers to confirm. If you would like dates added, please contact [email protected].

November | CaNadaJVC Jewellers’ Ball NoVemBer 7Regency Ballroom, Four Seasons HotelToronto, [email protected]

FHNB Fashion and Accessory exposéNoVemBer 18 - 19The Round Up Centre, Stampede ParkCalgary, Alberta1-403-277-9527consultant@fashionhasnoborders.comwww.fashionhasnoborders.com

November | USaJacksonville Christmas Gem, Jewelry and Bead Show NoVemBer 13 - 15Jacksonville, Floridawww.akssshow.com

miami Beach Antique Jewelry and Watch Show NoVemBer 13 - 15Miami Beach, Floridawww.miamibeachantiquejewelry andwatchshow.com

Gem Faire NoVemBer 13 - 15Tacoma Dome Convention CenterTacoma, [email protected]

West Coast Gem and mineral Show NoVemBer 13 - 15Holiday InnCosta Mesa, Californiawww.mzexpos.com

The Whole Bead ShowNoVemBer 13 - 15 Scottish Rite Event CenterSan Diego, California1-800-292-2577www.wholebead.com

Bead renaissance ShowNoVemBer 13 - 15Tulsa Expo SquareTulsa, Oklahomawww.beadshow.com

International Gem and Jewelry ShowNoVemBer 20 - 22Exhibition Hall and Northwest Rooms, Seattle CenterSeattle, Washington1-301-294-1640www.intergem.com

mid-South Jewelry and Accessories Fair NoVemBer 21 - 24Memphis, Tennessee 1-630-241-9865www.gift2jewelry.com

14th Annual Thanksgiving Gem-Jewelry-Bead Show NoVemBer 26 - 28The Coliseum BallroomSt. Petersburg, Florida1-941-954-0202www.frankcoxproductions.com

November | INterNatIoNalIFJA and IWCF NoVemBer 12 -14Office des Foires et Expositions de CasablancaCasablanca, Morocco+ 9714 340 [email protected]@emirates.net.ae www.ifjamorocco.com

Jeweller expo Ukraine 2009 NoVemBer 19 - 22Kiev Expo Plaza Exhibition CenterOdessa, Odes’Ka Oblast’, Ukraine(0038044) 490 [email protected]

Hong Kong International Jewelry manufacturers’ Show NoVemBer 26 - 29Hong Kong Exhibtion and Convention CenterHong Kong, China(852) 2766 [email protected] www.jewelryshows.org

deCember | USa34th Annual Christmas Gem, Jewelry and Bead Show DeCemBer 4 - 6 Sarasota Municipal Auditorium Sarasota, Florida1-941-954-0202www.frankcoxproductions.com

TransWorld’s Jewelry, Fashion and Accessories Show DeCemBer 4 - 6Schaumburg, Illinois 1-800-323-5462www.jfashow.com

Gem FaireDeCemBer 4 - 6Earl Warren ShowgroundsSanta Barbara, [email protected]

American Gem expo: Beads and Jewelry and Gift ShowDeCemBer 5 - 6 Double Tree Hotel Biltmore Asheville, North Carolinawww.americangemexpo.com

Baton rouge Jewelry and General merchandise Show DeCemBer 12 - 14 Baton Rouge, Louisiana 1-630-241-9865www.gift2jewelry.com

Christmas Gem Jewelry and Bead ShowDeCemBer 18 - 20Northshore Harbor Convention CenterSlidell, Louisianawww.aksshow.com

Gem Faire DeCemBer 18 - 20 Scottish Rite Event CenterSacramento, [email protected]

deCember | INterNatIoNalKara expoDeCemBer 4 - 6Bourse de CommerceParis, Ile-De-France, France+ 33 (0) 1 55 77 11 [email protected]

mineralien HamburgDeCemBer 5 - 6Hamburg Messe und CongressHamburg, Germany+ 49 40 3569 - [email protected]

Delhi International Jewellery ShowDeCemBer 11 - 14Pragati MaidanNew Delhi, Delhi, India + 91 11 46110364www.dijs.in


084.CJ_WhatsOn_re.indd 76 11/2/09 10:39:43 AM

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showcaseA D V E R T I S I N G

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Studio Publicity ad Final May 5th.indd 1 5/5/09 7:06:44 PM






Edmonton Findings House Ltd.Watch and Jewelery SuppliesClock and Watch Movements

All Kinds of Batteries & Watch CrystalsWax Patterns, Gem Stones, & Findings

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10524 - 124 St.Edmonton, Alberta

Canada T5N 1R9

EdmontonFindings.indd 1 7/16/09 11:45:31 AM

PRECIOUS METALS DEALEREXPRESS GOLD REFINING LTD.

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Project2:Express Gold Marketplace ad 2/25/09 3:11 PM Page 1

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Dynamic Gems Group IncWholesale Diamonds and Jewellery

Untitled-1 1 10/30/09 12:01:02 PM

A D V E R T I S I N G

marketplaceFor more information on how to advertise in this section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please contact:

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ALPHA JEWELLERS SUPPLIES FOURNITURES POUR BIJOUTIERS ALPHA INC.

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Lala Diamond PDF:Layout 1 12/10/08 6:52 PM Page 1

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Perrin ad:Layout 1 3/23/09 7:00 PM Page 1

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CanadianJeweller.indt 1 7/15/09 12:13:12 PM

Revolution.Introducing the new canadianjeweller.com

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DECEMBER ad

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Revolution.Introducing the new canadianjeweller.com

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classifi edFor more information on how to advertise in this section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please

contact: Sarah Perkin 416-203-7900 ext. 6126, [email protected] or Lucy Holden 514-381-5196, [email protected].

AGENTS/REPS WANTEDSeeking well established Sales Reps for Southwestern, Central, Northwest and Northeastern Ontario who are looking to add to existing lines a medium to high-end fashion jewellery line. Please forward resume via fax 416-667-8671 or by email to [email protected]

JEWELLERY STORE FOR SALESuccessful family owned business since 1951. Owner retiring. 1250 sq � . Modern downtown building and � xtures. Turn Key $175,000 complete. Inventory separate. Wallaceburg (between Chatham and Sarnia) 519-627-5781, 519-436-7229.

OKANAGAN “GEM” FOR SALE

Successful, independent jewellery store for sale in beautiful downtown Kelowna. Recently renovated showroom and goldsmith shop. Service oriented, excellent reputation with established clientele. Will assist with transition. Owners retiring. Contact [email protected] or Jerry 250-717-2195.

B U Y I N GBROKEN/CHIPPED DIAMONDS

CENSOR – SINCE 1917212-764-7130 IMMEDIATE PAYMENT!

HELP WANTED

High end jewellery store in Victoria BC is looking for a motivated individual for sales and bench work on a full time basis. We would like you to have good communication skills and a solid general knowledge of jewellery. We prefer a candidate familiar with basic jewellery making, like repairs, to spend some time at the bench. We o� er a great working environment to encourage a long term commitment from you. Wages and bene� ts will re� ect your experience. Please contact us directly at [email protected] or by phone at 250-858-7611.

Bogart's Jewellers is seeking a Goldsmith, in St. John's, NL. Jewellery repair experience is required. Salary is negotiable. Resumes can be forwarded to Richard Rooney or Gina Butt at heado� [email protected] or faxed to 709-739-5210. Or contact us at 709-739-5073.

AGENTS/REPS WANTEDNorth American distributor looking for agent(s) in major urban areas. previous experience in jewellery & watches required. Ability to manage sales programs and sales campaigns. Integrity, organization, process and communication skills. Competitive market commission. Send your resume to [email protected].

LOOKING

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GBA marketing class.:Layout 1 3/24/09 2:35 PM Page 1

You’ve probably noticed a change in Canadian Jeweller covers the

past few issues, as they’ve featured some of the top retailers in

the industry. We’re always looking for new businesses to shine a

spotlight on, so if you’re interested, we’d love to hear from you.

To have your store grace the cover of an upcoming CJ, and to

expose your business to a whole new audience, make sure to send

an email request to [email protected]

Calling all Canadian

Jewellery Retailers...

canadian jewellermagazinewww.canadianjeweller.com

130

PLUS: ALL THE LATEST MARKET NEWS, TRENDS & EVENTS

NOVEMBER 2009$25

Guy Couture and Stephane Lavoie from Quebec’s Bijouterie Giffard

Rising StarsIntroducing the newest design darlings Manya & Roumen

One Step AheadAttracting top talent in tough times

Educational SpotlightWhat it takes to become a jeweller and what happens after graduation

Bright Lights, Gold CityItalian jewellery is still going strong with insights direct from Charm at Vicenza

Metamorphosis

Special Feature

The Winners of

CJ’s Excellence in

Design Awards



www.fastfix.com



sectionhead

Fax Now to: 1-888-849-0155 or 416-703-6392 | or Mail card today to: 60 Bloor St. West, Suite 1106, Toronto, ON, M4W 3B8

PAGE

85 GET FREE INFORMATION! SEE A PRODUCT YOU LIKE? WANT MORE INFORMATION, ABSOLUTELY FREE?…

on any product advertised in this issue

BY FAXOR MAIL

1. See product you want info on

2. Use this quick reference list below to fi nd its free info number (it’s also on the ad)

3. Write the number(s) on the attached free info card

4. Mail or fax us at 1-888-849-0155 or 416-703-6392

5. Receive free info direct from as many advertisers as you like

CONNECT WITH… page write # CONNECT WITH… page write #

Stuller 2 101

Sapir Diamonds 3 103

UBM Asia Ltd. 4 104

Pandora 5 105

O’Neill Diamonds 6 106

GS Laboratories 7 107

JSN Jewellery 8 108

JSN Jewellery 9 108

Butterfl y Gems 11 109

The Whole Media AG 13 110

Gee ‘n Gee Importers 15 111

Hong Kong Trade Development Council 17 112

Atlantic Engravings 19 113

Five Star Diamonds 23 114

Sanghavi Diamonds 25 115

CGTA - Living and Giving with Style 27 116

Rousseau Chain Imports 28 117

MCD Pearls 28 118

Selling area of your store under 1,000 sq.ft. 1,001 - 3,000 sq.ft. 3,001 - 5,000 sq.ft. over 5,000 sq.ft. Approximate annual sales volume under $500,000 $500,000 - $1 million $1 million - $5 million $5 million - $10 million $10 million - $20 million over $20 million

Categories you personally manage Retailer Designer Gemologist Supplier Manufacturer Other _________________________________

Which category best describes your business classifi cation? Education Retailer Manufacturer Wholesaler Importer Designer Services (repair, appraisals, etc.) Other: ________________________________

Number of employees at your location 1-3 4-8 9-12 over 13

Number of locations: ______________________

Signature: __________________________________________ Date: _______________

Your Name: _________________________________________ Title: ________________

Company Name: ___________________________________________________________

Address: _________________________________________________________________

City: ________________________________ Province: ___________________________

Postal Code: ______________________________________________________________

Phone: ______________________________ Fax: _______________________________

Email Address (optional): _____________________________________________________

2. Use this quick

Five Star Gold 29 119

Nova Diamonds 31 120

Vianna Brasil 39 121

Jomark 87 123

Mirage Creations 88 124

Butterfl y Gems 18 125

Jomark 18 126

Nova Diamonds 18 127

Siffari 18 128

JSN Jewellery 20 129

Atlantic Engraving 20 130

Stuller 20 131

Baselworld 20 132

Vianna Brasil 21 133

Gee ‘n Gee Importers 21 134

GS Laboratories 21 135

Pandora 21 136

Yes! Please send me or continue to send me Canadian Jeweller magazine No, don’t send

NOVEMBER 2009WRITE IN THE NUMBERS HERE FOR EACH PRODUCT YOU WANT MORE DETAILED INFORMATION ON

USE QUICK REFERENCE LIST AT TOP OF PAGE

Reserved exclusively for retailers

Example

101

STEP 1 STEP 2

STEP 3

STEP 4

To qualify, check circles:

* FREE Info Card & Subscription To receive free information you must print clearly and fi ll out form completely.

089.CJ_FaxBack.indd 85 11/2/09 12:56:18 PM



– Paul Aguirre

Affordable is in — so have some fun and treat yourself… and everyone else for that matter. If recent shows and shifts within the industry are any indication, silver is all the rage from runway to showcase. With over 25 years in the business, Winnipeg-based designer Hilary Druxman releases Collection 52, her newest offerings for fall that fit perfectly

within the silver craze. Our favourite? This hand-crafted sterling silver multi-chain bracelet on a sleek slide clasp. Perfect for any occasion, any outfit and any woman. Valued at $280.

lastword

Actress Peggy Joyce once sAid:

It takes all the fun out of a bracelet

if you have to buy it yourself.“

”

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CJ_Nov09_Jomark_Ad.indd 1 10/29/09 2:59:39 PM

Mirage Creations Inc.221 Victoria Street, Lower Level, Toronto, Ontario, Canada M5B 1V4

Local: (416) 366-9595 Toll Free: (877) BY MIRAGE Fax: (416) 366-9677www.miragecreations.com e-mail: [email protected]


CJ.Nov09_Mirage_Ad.indd 1 10/29/09 3:02:08 PM

www.miragecreations.com

Documents

Canadian Jeweller Magazine November 2009