The Jeweller

JewellerDecember 2010 £6.50 The Voice of The Industry

the

The Jeweller is produced in conjunction with the British Jewellers’ Association

Kevin Coleman tributeSecrets of jewellery photography revealedNew directions for store design and display

Jewellerthe

1 0 0 % E X E C U T I O N

JUNGHANS – THE GERMAN WATCH

Distributor and Service centre forJunghans in the UK and Eire

Telephone: 01698 283388

Fax: 01698 285677

Email: [email protected]

The Voice of the Industry 3

Contents |

Obituary: Kevin ColemanFriends and family pay tribute to the former

chairman of the NAG who passed away in October 14

Providing an alternativeMary Brittain talks to BJA members who are

finding off-beat ways to reach consumers 26

Dress up. . . Trim down. . .Store design trends and money saving tips

for refitting, investigated by Tom Allen 30

Photo finishBelinda Morris looks at the fine art of

jewellery photography 44

It’s a love thingValentine’s Day is just round the corner

and BJA members are all heart 50

C O N T E N T S D E C 1 0

The National Association

of Goldsmiths

78a Luke Street,

London EC2A 4XG

Tel: 020 7613 4445

www.jewellers-online.org

Editor: Belinda Morris

Tel: 01692 538007

[email protected]

BJA Marketing & PR Manager

Lindsey Straughton

[email protected]

Tel: 0121 237 1110

CUBE Publishing

Sales Director: Ian Francis

Tel: 020 7833 5500

[email protected]

Art Director: Ben Page

[email protected]

Publisher: Neil Oakford

[email protected]

Contributors:

Tom Allen, Mary Brittain,

John Henn, Jo Young

The Jeweller is published by CUBE Publishing on behalf of theNational Association of Goldsmiths for circulation to members.For further information about The Jeweller please visit:www.thejewellermagazine.com

The magazine is printed on paper and board that has metacceptable environmental accreditation standards.

Although every effort is made to ensure that the information supplied is accurate, the NAG disclaims and/or does not accept liability for any loss, damage or claim whatsoever that may result from the information given. Information and ideas are forguidance only and members should always consult their own professional advisers.The publisher accepts no responsibility for any advertiser, advertisement or insert in TheJeweller. Anyone having dealings with any advertiser must rely on their own enquiries.

Communiqué 4

Editor’s Letter 7

Industry News 8

Member of the Month 17

BJA News 18

Security Update 20

Jeweller Picks 22

Opinion: John Henn 28

BJA: Brits a hit in Paris 38

Ethical Jeweller 41

Insurance Matters 42

Antique Jeweller 52

Education & Training 56

Legal Jeweller 58

IRV Review 60

Notebook 62

Appointments 63

Display Cabinet 64

The Last Word 66

Cover ImageContemporary jewellers – designed and installed by

Hallmark Design and Shopfitting Ltd266 Kings Road, Kingstanding,

Birmingham, West Midlands B44 0SATel: 0121 355 3333 Fax: 0121 355 5017

Email: [email protected]: www.hallmarkdesign.co.uk

JewellerThe Voice of The Industry www.thejewellermagazine.com

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4 The Jeweller December 2010

Resolutions

Right now we’re in a period of enforcedausterity with our coalition government

imposing eye-watering cuts to publicspending. At such times jewellers need toknow they have someone in their corner;putting their point of view; standing up fortheir rights. That’s where the NationalAssociation of Goldsmiths comes in. TheNAG has been active since 1894, and rightfrom the off we have used our collectivestrength to benefit individual members.That’s why we often apply the epithet ‘bythe trade for the trade’ to our efforts.

We’re not in it for the money; we’re acompany limited by guarantee, with a not-for-profit ethos; and our Board of twelve, allelected from the membership, give theirtime for free. As does Council, which consistsof representatives from independents,multiples, buying groups, associations, andregional groups, that meets twice yearly togive its advice and consider importantissues. Our October meeting considered thevexed issue of security in the run up toChristmas, and next year will present equallychallenging subject matter.

At this time of year our thoughts focus ontargets for the future, and these have beentaxing our Board of late as I have laid before

them a number of challenging objectives forthe coming six months.

Train to Gain

Aside from implementing significant ITchanges, our short term goals include

realising the potential of JET 1 and Jet 2 intheir online versions; promoting the brandnew JetPro programme to aspiring businessowners and managers; and completing thefirst draft of the new IRV qualifications.Meanwhile the government’s attention is onthe skills gap and plans to close it partlythrough apprenticeships. We have anestablished relationship with Skillsmart, theSector Skills Council for retail, and next on ourlist of challenges is national accreditation.

The next Council meeting on 10th Marchhas to be accommodated, contents agreed,and speakers engaged; the EducationAwards on the same day have to beorganised and the hundred or so graduandsand supporters informed and marshalled;while we make preparations for the AGM

and Luncheon on 29th June. Added to that,in the coming months the NAG will belooking into the subjects of ‘successionplanning’ and ‘extending working lives’ aspart of a series of round table discussionsstarting in the spring. Other subjects areonline learning; security protocols and thefundamentals of online selling.

Talk Talk

As our publications n-gauge and TheJeweller grow in authority and frequency,

so does our thirst for information andinteresting angles on the people,procedures, and opinions that populate ourindustry grows. While n-gauge concentrateson the legal and technical, and providesadvice on compliance issues, The Jewellerhas the luxury of space in which toelaborate. This year our co-operation withthe BJA has brought forth an interestingnew perspective.

Secure Grip

Security is never far from our minds,particularly now, and NAG takes part in

numerous local and national initiativespromoting a secure environment forjewellers. In particular we are part of a METPolice working party looking into securityprocedures in London. A set of protocols is

in development and once agreed we willbegin the process of promotion andpromulgation throughout the industry.

We are especially proud of the work wehave done with TH March in establishingSaferGems. It has raised our standing withpolice forces across the country; gathered

M I C H A E L H O A R E ’ S

CommuniquéThe NAG’s chairman Michael Hoare looks ahead to2011 and the long-as-your-arm ‘to do’ list facing theAssociation and its members for the months ahead.

“We are especially proud of the work we have done... in establishingSaferGems. It has raised our standing with police forces... gatheredsubstantial data banks and contributed to the arrest of criminals.”

| Comment


Comment |

substantial data banks and contributed to the arrest of criminals. Thechallenge in the coming months is to spread the net wider; gettingmore retailers and the wider industry on board.

Our Place in the World

Although only a small island on the fringes of Europe, as a nation wehave always punched above our weight on international affairs, and

so it is with the jewellery sector. As pivotal members of CIBJO, theInternational Jewellery Federation, we have been represented on itsBoard for many years. Soon we will know the identity of the 2011Congress hosts, and prepare our delegation to present an informedand unified position to our international counterparts.

Nomenclature, manufacturing procedures, and standards oftesting will jostle with ethics, to top the agenda. No matter where thedebate leads, the UK will field high calibre representatives, and thiscan only be achieved through thorough preparation. Moves are alsoafoot to establish a group representing the interests of Europeannations; taking into account specific legislation, and we will bekeeping a watchful eye on these developments.

RJC

As founder members of the Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC)we will undertake a certification process before the end of 2011

to fulfil our membership obligations. This should not be too onerousbecause our trading relationships are relatively simple compared tothose trading jewellery products; nevertheless, time and thought willbe required. It will soon be time to respond to the second round ofconsultations on RJC’s proposal for a chain of custody, and hopefullywe will be able to put forward a unified response to what could bea very far reaching initiative.

The Good Fight

Red-tape, and bureaucracy have a stranglehold over business lifeand pre-election attendees at Council will recall that this single

issue gained general approval from the assembled politicians. Nowwe have the opportunity to hold the new government to account,and through our connections we will be contributing to a review byLord Young, the Prime Minister’s Enterprise Advisor, into the waygovernment departments interact with and affect small business.Also high on the agenda are the finance and credit facilities availableto business through the banks.

Fast Forward

So, the road is already mapped; the budget has been thrashedout; the objectives are clear; now we must concentrate on

making things happen. Along the way we will have to jump somehurdles, and it wouldn’t be a trade association if we didn’t get the odd spanner thrown in the works, but I know that with yourcontinued support we can have a positive effect on the tradingenvironment for jewellers. Happy Christmas!

Metalor is pleased to introduce a new set of stock list cards in an easy to usehandy format detailing our extensiverange of precious metal products for thejewellery trade user. All these productsare available from stock for same daydespatch where ever possible.

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Comment |

Are you bored of reading about The Nuptials yet? Hmm, getting that way myself. The flurry of

excitement that I felt on first hearing the news (I like a romantic story) is maybe wearing

off a little now. I've probably over-dosed on the media feeding frenzy – caring about who

will make the frock can stretch only so far. But there's no denying the fact that we could use

some good news… and this is good news. The Baby Jesus’ birthday notwithstanding, things

do seem a little doom-laden at the moment.

We need this fillip – there’s nothing like a royal beano of this kind to set the tills ringing,

particularly after Christmas when things traditionally go a bit flat, retail- as well as spirit-wise.

It’s nice to have something to look forward to – think of the boost to tourism, the potential

renewed interest in sapphires (again) and the possible rush of other couples naming the day

and going for it in lavish style.

This issue of The Jeweller brings further glad tidings, courtesy of jewellery designer-

retailer Harriet Kelsall who, acting on a feature she read in the magazine earlier this year, is

now working with a very deserving, burgeoning Soweto-based jewellery supplier. Ooh the

positive power of the press… we couldn’t be more chuffed. Read more on p.41.

The unhelpfully premature arrival of snow (great on Christmas Day, completely pointless

in November) has probably dampened things a little on the high street. But on the other

hand, doesn't it make you feel festive… just a bit? At time of going to press I’m well on my

way to the required one dozen different mince pies for my lucky 2011; I’ve already taken

the chill off with glüh wein and a space is being cleared for the tree. Happy Christmas and

a very prosperous new year to all our readers from The Jeweller magazine team!

Page 26

Page 44

Editor’sLetter

This month:

“Seeing my jewellerybeing tried on helps menotice things I need tochange. You have to be prepared to learnand to listen...”

“A detailed briefremoves ambiguity, but can constrain thecreative process; while a total free reign is rarely that…”

If you would like to comment on any of the issues raised in this edition of The Jewelleror any other trade-related matters please email the editor at: [email protected]

| Industry News


The Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC)has announced that Cartier, a founding

member of the Council, has become certified against the ethical, human rights,social and environmental standards estab-lished by the RJC’s Member CertificationSystem. Founded in 1847, the internationallyrenowned house of luxury, which designsand manufactures exclusive collections offine jewellery, wristwatches and accessories,has approximately 300 Cartier boutiquesworldwide. “The RJC warmly congratulatesCartier on becoming the second RJC CertifiedMember. [This] results from a successfulverification assessment conducted by SGS,a highly regarded and international auditingcompany accredited by RJC in July 2010.Cartier now occupies a unique position toact as a role model within the internationaljewellery industry,” says Michael Rae, RJC’sChief Executive Officer.

All Commercial Members of the RJC havecommitted to be audited by accredited,third party auditors to verify the company’sconformance with the RJC’s Code ofPractices and become certified within twoyears of joining the RJC. “Since 1847, theCartier Maison has embodied a tradition ofexcellence, a tradition which has become ourduty,” says Bernard Fornas, Cartier’s President

and CEO. “This duty of excellence… alsoextends to the way in which we conduct our activities – ethically, socially, and environmentally. This is what drove ourdecision to co-found the RJC in 2005. We believe the RJC standard is a powerfuland effective way to drive positive changethrough the jewellery supply chain frommining all the way to retail.”

The news comes as two important piecesof ‘pioneering’ Cartier jewellery come up forauction at Bonhams in London this month.This Art Deco necklace created in 1936 wasnoted not only for its many cuts of diamondssitting on pierced geometric plaques butalso for the use of the rare metal platinum.The signed necklace is estimated to fetchbetween £100,000 and £150,000.

Just days after the historical purchase of the world’s ‘finest pink diamond’, the ‘Graff Pink’,Laurence Graff has announced the acquisition of two more important stones. The 196

carat and 184 carat rough diamonds were successfully acquired for a total of $22,736,360during a sealed-bid tender in Antwerp on 25th November.

The Letšeng mine, based in the Maluti Mountains in Lesotho, is a mine of growing significance,having produced three of the world’s top 20 diamonds ever discovered. This is Graff’s fifthsignificant purchase of a notable Letšeng diamond in recent years and follows other notablestones such as the 603 carat ‘Lesotho Promise’, the 493 carat ‘Letšeng Legacy’ and the mostrecent acquisition – the 478 carat ‘Light of Letšeng’, which was then polished to reveal theGraff Constellation, the world’s first round brilliant flawless diamond to exceed 100 carats.

“We are delighted with the successful acquisition of these two major stones. This purchasefurther demonstrates our continuing investment in the industry and the world’s finest diamonds.We look forward to the challenge of cutting and polishing these stones and releasing theirfull potential,” says Graff, founder and chairman of Graff Diamonds Holdings.

Graff buys more top diamonds

The Gemological Institute of America hasannounced the six key speakers for the

research track of Symposium 2011 (29th-30thMay, 2011) at Carlsbad. Dr. Mark Newton,University of Warwick, U.K. – treated diamonddetection; Dr. Gaston Giuliani, French Centerfor Petrographic and Geochemical Research –the geology of coloured stone deposits; Dr. Thomas Stachel, University of Alberta –Canadian diamond geology; Dr. AhmadjanAbduriyim, Tokyo’s Gemmological Associationof All Japan-Zenhokyo – geographic origindetermination; Ken Scarratt, MD of GIASoutheast Asia – pearl identification and Dr. George Rossman, California Institute ofTechnology – advanced gem characterisation.For details email: [email protected]

Speakers forGIA symposiumCartier is second

RJC certified member

New website for Elodie

Elodie, the sterling silver jewellery companyhas relaunched its website, the timing of

which coincides with its new brand image.The focus is on a visually aspirational site thatreflects the product offering and the newwebsite has been updated to provide existingand new customers an easy-to-navigate, fullyintegrated service with a faster site speed.

The relaunched website includes an easy touse categorised product page, allowing thecustomer to click on to Elodie’s popular collections, greatly diminishing the amount oftime spent browsing. In addition to the new‘About Us’ section which defines the brand’sDNA, there is a fully functioning stockist page,which is key to the ongoing development ofthe brand and highlights its continued supportto its network of stockists.


Industry News |

S N I P P E T SSparkling expansion for Stoner Group

Bespoke jewellers The Stoner Group hasexpanded into new state-of-the-art premisesin Harrogate, North Yorkshire. The nicheLondon-style boutique will specialise in diamond jewellery incorporating the finestD and E coloured diamonds, as well asRolex watches. The former head designer atthe Goldsmith chain, Georgio Gerakio, willjoin MD Chris Stoner in providing designand consultation services to clients fromacross the UK.

Chris Stoner, a gemmologist and diamondgrader, who is carrying on the family dynastyof his father, Phillip Stoner. said: “Our newstore will focus on jewellery we havedesigned and created ourselves. We arespecialising in the rarest diamonds to createunique pieces of jewellery which will rivalBond Street jewellers.”

Tateossian winners announced

Christie’s in London last month saw theannouncement of the winners of theTateossian jewellery design competition.Elizaveta Gnatchenko and Grace Cross arethe top two of the six Central Saint Martinsgraduates tasked with designing a smallcapsule collection for Tateossian and whose winning collections will be available exclusively at Tateossian stores in 2011. The competition forms part of the company’s20 year anniversary celebrations. Judges for the prize included David Furnish, Vogue Jewellery Editor Carol Woolton, GQEditor Dylan Jones and The Sunday Timescolumnist AA Gill.

One of the two winners, ElizavetaGnatchenko with (from left) Pedro Girao,chairman of Christie’s European AdvisoryBoard, David Furnish and Robert Tateossian

Ute Decker launchesFairtrade gold collectionEthical jeweller Ute Decker will reveal a Fairtrade gold collection on Valentine’s Day 2011,

at the launch of the world’s first independently certified ethical gold. Known for her minimalist sculptural jewellery in recycled silver and bio-resin, Decker will be one of the first jewellers worldwide to launch a collection in Fairtrade Eco gold, mined under Fairtradestandards, and without the use of toxic chemicals.

The Fairtrade Foundation and Alliance for Responsible Mining (ARM) have collaborated ona joint venture to introduce the world’s first independent ethical certification system for gold.

“I am proud to support small scale miners, their rights, livelihoods and our environment,”says Decker. “Fifteen per cent of the Fairtrade premium will directly benefit the artisanal mining communities; paying for a midwife, schools and clean water. I already have severalpre-orders for pieces in Fairtrade gold; my clients want to be part of this historical event, givingexpression to their values.” Ute Decker’s one-off and small series sculptural jewellery worksin Fairtrade gold will feature the Fairtrade and Fairmined ‘jewel-stamp’ next to the traditionalhallmarking, to guarantee the gold’s provenance in each piece.

The Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC) is advising its members to be vigilant about tradingdiamonds that do not carry the full authority of the Kimberley Process. The RJC points out

that until consensus is reached, trade in Marange diamonds can only take place in compliancewith the Kimberley Process’ Joint Work Plan agreed to in June 2010.

The RJC Code of Practices includes four provisions requiring conformance with theKimberley Process Certification Scheme (KPCS) for rough diamonds. As part of the RJCCertification process, RJC members undergo independent, third party auditing of their relevant business practices to evidence their conformance with the RJC’s Code of Practices.Full compliance with the KPCS is vital for RJC members and for the entire jewellery industry.

The RJC is continuing consultations with stakeholders on the development of a RJC Chain-of-Custody certification standard for the diamond, gold and platinum jewellery supply chains.RJC Chain-of-Custody certification would be voluntary and complementary to the RJC’s existing independent third party certification of its members’ responsible business practices.A discussion paper containing a draft Chain-of-Custody Standard is currently open for publiccomment until 31 January, 2011.

For more information about the RJC Chain-of-Custody certification initiative visit the website at: www.responsiblejewellery.com/chain-of-custody.html

RJC advises diamond vigilance

During December The Birmingham Assay Office is running a consumer hallmarking campaignin the Midlands and it will also feature a hallmarking awareness campaign in association

with Smooth Radio 105.7FM. The campaign will aim to increase consumer understanding ofthe value of hallmarking. It will explain that when buying fine jewellery this festive season –“make sure you ask to see the hallmarks – they are your guarantee of the precious metalcontent”. There must be at least three different marks to be a full legal UK hallmark.

During this trading period, all divisions of the Birmingham Assay Office will be working until1pm on Friday 24th December, while the Laboratory will work until close of business on23rd December. The Office will reopen on 4th January, 2011.

Assay Office runs consumer hallmarking awareness campaign

| Industry News


RCA Scholarship2010 awardedThe Goldsmiths’ Company has chosen silversmith, Jennifer Grey, a graduate of

Glasgow School of Art, to be the recipient of its first Royal College of Art Scholarship. The scholarship, which will be awarded every two years, forms part of the Company’s on-going support for the craft and industry.

The Company has enjoyed a long relationship with the RCA and for more than 10 yearshas provided a bursary for a promising silversmithing student at the College to assist themwith working in precious materials and alleviate the financial burden this can cause duringtheir postgraduate studies.

Peter Taylor, director of Technology and Training, said: “The Company is constantly strivingto improve its support for excellence in craftsmanship and design and it recognises thattoday’s students have to cope with many burdens during their studies – particularly financialones. The Company’s new RCA Scholarship is designed to alleviate any such burdens by providing one RCA postgraduate student with not only financial help but also mentoring support over the two years of their course.” As such Jennifer Grey has to date been granted£2,000 to help with living costs, a £2,000 precious metal bursary and the RCA has receiveda cheque for £2,500 to go towards her tuition fees.

The criteria for this new scholarship are that it “be awarded to an individual who demonstratesoutstanding practical ability and potential in craftsmanship and design and needs financialsupport during their time at the Royal College of Art”. In addition the selection panel waslooking for an outstanding silversmith with an ambition to pursue their craft to the highest level and a commitment to a career in the industry.

Silversmith awardThe Goldsmiths’ Company’s annual Young Designer

Silversmith Award competition has been won thisyear by Ben Ryan (22) of Welwyn Garden City, who atthe time of being chosen was a post-graduate student atBishopsland Educational Trust. He was guided throughthe process of creating his winning design – a presentationdish for mussels – by silversmiths Carl Padgham andAndrew Putland of Puckley in Kent, the £4,000 prize goingtowards the cost of translating the design into silver. The finished piece will be presented by the Goldsmith’sCompany to an appropriate national museum. Ryan alsoreceives £500 for himself.

S N I P P E T SRoyal Wedding guests can rent jewels from Earnest Jones

The ‘Golden Ticket’ winners attending theRoyal Wedding next April needn’t worry

about standing up to worldwide scrutiny –Ernest Jones is to offer a special ‘Red CarpetRocks’ rental service to the privileged hundred. The guests will be able to takeadvantage of a celebrity-style makeoverfrom a central London salon and choosefrom a roomful of precious gems to wearon the day, courtesy of the jeweller. With jewels from £20 to £11,000 tochoose from, including a stunning array ofchocolate-coloured diamonds, the guestswill be invited to a London showroom andgiven styling assistance. A deposit will berequired to ensure safety of the jewelleryand the guests will be given the option ofpurchasing the pieces at a reduced rateafter the event.

New generation takes over at Talbots Group

A new generation of siblings has taken over the jewellery display and packagingcompany Talbots Group. Julie Fowler-Drake,Rosalind and Andrew Fowler are followingin the footsteps of their father who first tookon and built up Talbots over 40 years ago.

An exciting future with an emphasis onnew design and fresh ideas is promised.Between the three of them, they alreadyhave various business and creative successstories under their belts: Julie, now managingdirector, previously created revolutionarykids clothing company Brights and Stripes.Andrew set up creative advertising agencyBrothers and Sisters three years ago. Withclients including adidas and Sky, this cuttingedge business has relaunched TalbotsGroup with a new catalogue and website,and is planning to release fresh thinking onhow great packaging can enhance theexperience of receiving jewellery as a gift.

Family-run business Talbots has alsorecently re-branded itself as ‘Talbots Group’(Talbots Birmingham Ltd, Boxpads, andPickering and Mayell). As well as jewelleryboxes, the company provides matchingbags, jewellery display and other sundries,many of which are made to order.

Acombination of private pledges, ticket sales and live auction led to a total of $1millionraised for the Diamond Empowerment Fund (DEF) charity, held at the Banqueting

Hall in London last month. The auction, consisting of diamond jewellery, travel packages and celebrity experiences and MC’d by Tim Dabson of the Diamond Trading Company raised$500,000. Among the attendees at the gala dinner evening were Varda Shine, CEO of DTC; Nicky Oppenheimer, chairman of De Beers; Russell Simmons, founder of DEF and Anna Martin, MD of Diamond Jewellery for Standard Chartered. DEF’s mission is to raise funds to go towards supporting education initiatives in the African communities arounddiamond mines.

Diamond benefit raises $1million

| Industry News


Jet1 Project Awardwinner announcedThe NAG and Bransom have announced

the recipient of October’s Bransom JET 1Project Award. Sarah Berkeley of Pravins inBristol will receive a certificate and be invitedto the NAG’s prestigious Presentation ofAwards at Goldsmiths’ Hall.

Berkeley’s tutor, Anne Bray comments: “I think Sarah should be well rewarded forher good and very prompt assignments. Shehad only been in the trade for seven months when she enrolled in April. Her assignments werereceived absolutely on time every month in spite of having a house move during her course.”

The project’s moderator found that “Sarah had produced an answer that has the ‘Wow factor’; each section has been given a full detailed coverage of the subject and is well illustrated. The most impressive part of the answer is contained in the last 10 pages whichdetail the work that may be required to the diamond ring. Very sound practical possibilitiesare put forward for the repair or remake into another piece of jewellery and the hand-drawnillustrations in this section of the project are amazing. Sarah really does deserve to be thewinner of the JET 1 Project Award for October 2010.”

“It is absolutely brilliant to win the award, and gives me a real sense of achievement,” saysBerkeley. “It has given me confidence to continue within the industry. Pravins is a great family run business, and they have really helped me become part of their team. They’vebeen very supportive, and I’d like to thank them all. I’d also like to thank tutor Anne Bray forhelping me through, and I look forward to taking the JET 2 course in the near future.”

Students who successfully complete all five assignments of JET 1 to a satisfactory standardwill be awarded a JET 1 certificate and are then entitled to continue on to JET 2 and thecompletion of the Professional Jewellers’ Diploma.

For more information on the JET courses, go to www.jewellers-online.org or call 020 76134445 (option 1). For information on Bransom go to: www.bransom.co.uk

S N I P P E T SBlacklock jewellery auction

In celebration of its March web-basedrelaunch, fine English jeweller BlacklockJewellery of Sunderland, is holding anonline closed tender auction for an item ofBlacklock jewellery. A one-off piece fromthe Xanadu collection has been created,featuring 18ct white gold tendrils with acreamy pink South Seas pearl at its centre. The auction, held in collaborationwith the Macmillan Cancer Support charity,commences at 12pm on the 7th ofDecember and closes a week later at 12pmon the 14th of December.

“It feels appropriate to celebrate our firstChristmas since relaunch by teaming upwith such a great cause to give somethingback. It gives our loyal customers and fansthe chance to buy a piece of our fine jewellery at a price that they want to pay,”says Chris Blacklock.

Four star dining at Lumbers

250 guests were entertained over threenights last month by Leicester jewellersLumbers as its boutique was transformedinto a Michelin Star restaurant. The novelconcept allowed loyal clients of the jewellerto enjoy a sumptuous four-course meal,preview the latest jewellery from aroundthe world and be entertained by X Factorand Eurovision star Andy Abraham.

The opulent, fine dining experienceincluded a champagne reception courtesyof Henriot, followed by a four course gourmet meal provided by the FinesseCollection, a luxurious East Midlands Hotelgroup. While guests dined they were able toview jewellery from brands such as Breitling,Chopard, Breguet, Bulgari, Mont Blanc anda selection of exclusive yellow diamonds.The volume of sales on the high street was higher in November than a year ago, for the

fifth consecutive month, as shoppers started gearing up for Christmas. The CBI’s latestquarterly Distributive Trades survey revealed that 55 per cent of retailers saw the volume ofsales rise in the two weeks to November 10th, while 13 per cent said they fell.

Sales grew most strongly in November for grocers and clothing retailers and looking ahead to the crucial pre-Christmas period, retailers expect strong sales volume growth tocontinue in December (+45 per cent), and a net 11 per cent of retailers expect the overallbusiness situation to improve over the next three months. Ian McCafferty, CBI ChiefEconomic Adviser, said: “Looking into the New Year, retail sales growth may lose some of itssparkle, as consumers rein in spending after Christmas. Confidence remains fragile, VAT isrising in January, and a combination of weak wage growth and high inflation is eating intohousehold incomes.”

Christmas brings boost tohigh street sales says CBI

Ifirst met Kevin at the NAG Conference inParis 1981. It was Kevin’s first conference

and apart from the craic over a few drinks inthe bar during the event, we had a ball atthe ‘De Beers – Intergold River Seine CruiseDinner Evening. It was clear from the outsetthat Kevin enjoyed life and shared my beliefthat if you worked hard you were entitled toenjoy yourself at the same pace.

While this was his first Conference it wasby far not his last; we had fun at each. ButConference was not the only event wesupported – it seemed no matter what wason in the trade the pair of us were there. Like‘two peas in a pod’ we turned up again andagain, roping in the likes of Bridget O’Hagan,Robert Vander Woerd, Aidan Farrell, EricSmyth etc. No matter what the event wealways found a fun angle and got the bantergoing. Truely we didn’t need an excuse to gettogether; people reckoned we would turnup if someone was opening a tin of beans!

I was delighted in 1983 when Kevin joinedme on the NAG council and we exchangedmany ideas of how we would like to see theNAG be at the forefront and oversee radicalchanges that were crying out to be made inthe retail jewellery sector. It is no secret thatboth of us could get more than a littlefrustrated at times and we were not behindthe door saying so. Both of us were firstgeneration jewellers and our views on howthe trade was changing was somewhatdifferent than the norm at the time, so youcan imagine the craic we had discussingwhat we should do to change policy.

In the early 80s John Bischoff, a colleaguefrom his Timex days approached Kevin tobecome a director and chairman of a newbuying group he was forming: ‘IndependentJewellers’. Kevin knew that I had formed a‘wholesale’ company to get round theproblems we had buying from source so heconvinced John that I should be involved

and so another chapter with Kevin cameabout. I had been part of the NAG group thattravelled to the USA in 1981 on a fact-findingmission which had been set up with greathelp with the then CEO of Jewellers ofAmerica, Mike Roman. Mike, Kevin and Istruck up a great friendship and when I toldMike about the new buying group headvised that we should meet a friend of his in the USA Carat Club – Bill Roberts. Billwas owner and CEO of the biggest buyinggroup in the USA, the IJO.

With the help of Mike this meeting wasarranged and not only did we receive somegreat ideas to a dd to the benefits of our‘Independent Jewellers’ members, Billbecame a fantastic pal and Kevin and Ienjoyed many very happy trips to the USAstaying with Bill at his amazing home inWestport, Connecticut and attending theirbuying meetings and conferences. Kevinand I also used to fly to Antwerp to team upwith Bill when he brought groups of hismembers to buy diamonds; these openedup more contacts and new friends andmore trips for us both to enjoy together.

Joining Kevin on the Business ServiceCommittee we set about sharing ourexperiences from the USA. As the three dayNAG Conferences were losing their appealKevin and I put forward the idea of havingone day events. We looked at what webelieved would interest and draw members:good speakers with interesting subjects,plus five minute presentations from fellowjewellers. Speakers were briefed that wewanted action packed content… and theydelivered. The blend of speakers Kevin and

| NAG News


Kevin ColemanChairman of the NAG (1994-1996)Kevin Coleman, a former chairman of the National Associationof Goldsmiths, who died aged 64 in October, is rememberedhere for his passion for life and the industry, for his dedication, his humour and his irrepressible, independent spirit.

A wonderful dear friend and colleague for 30 years by Jack Murphy


NAG News |

I had heard in the States with those from theBritish Isles, plus our fellow jewellers were ahit and we had great fun over a ten yearperiod putting these events together andmade many great friends among the jewellerswho supported them. The ‘icing on the cake’was without doubt the one we held in NewYork as part of the NAG Centenary year withKevin as Centenary Chairman.

Kevin and I were fellow Rotarians andvisited each other’s club. We invited a numberof the St Neots members to Newry for a visitand twenty years later these annual trips stilltake place. Four clubs are now involved:Newry and St Neots plus Dundalk in theRepublic of Ireland and Tournai from Belgium.Each year we visit a different country inrotation, England, Belgium and Ireland. Kevinwill be sadly missed by all who have enjoyedhis company on these trips over the years.

For Kevin’s 50th birthday I presented him with a crystal spirit decanter and had it engraved with over three dozen ‘oneliners’ to remind him of some of thefantastic trips and events we had enjoyedtogether over the years. He would alwaysbring it out whenever I visited and we would sit and giggle like kids rememberingthose marvellous memories and amazingcharacters we were lucky to meet.

Among the many things we enjoyed was the Morecambe & Wise Show and weused to have a laugh about some of theirsketches – like ‘playing all the right notesbut not necessarily in the right order’. BringMe Sunshine was always one of those songswe would break into now and again and atthe end of those One Day Conferences wewould always do that silly dance of Eric andErnie’s, singing Bring Me Sunshine andhaving a real good laugh.

We used to joke that we would like to becarried out of the church for the last time to

this refrain and I passed on this fact to Pattieand the girls. At his funeral Kevin’s energyfor life and enjoyment throughout the years was remembered with the renderingof Bring Me Sunshine creating a little smileat a time of such sadness and loss.

I’m really going to miss Kevin; I don’t thinka week went by over the last thirty years thatwe did not chat on the phone. It used to beabout ideas we had for the ‘BusinessService Committee’ or subjects for his veryfamous Coleman’s Column in BritishJeweller and later in this magazine. Lately itmay have been a chat about a new supplier,a crib about an unreasonable customer, orabout the football results over the weekend.Whatever the subject there would alwayshave been a few laughs and lots of slagging.

I always looked forward to those calls;hearing how his girls were taking over somuch of the day to day hassle for him andnew ideas they had planned. It’s hard tobelieve I will not enjoy those calls ever again– but I have the wonderful memories tolook back on; memories of a wonderfulfriend whom I shared so many very happyevents with over the last thirty years.

“He brought us sunshine with his smile,brought us laughter all the while…”

My father was one of the most interesting,fun, articulate, courageous and

passionate people you could hope to meet.He was a veritable fount of knowledge as heavidly read a whole kaleidoscope of materialwhich meant there was barely a subject youcould throw at him that he wouldn't be ableto comment on. I should know – I tried, andfailed, on many an occasion to catch himout. This is one of the factors that made himsuch a wonderful father – there wasn't asituation we girls ever threw at him that hecouldn’t sort out. Once he’d grabbed hispen and paper and “put all the factors intothe equation’ a solution was never far away.

I loved him so much because he adoredlife. Never again will we meet a man with somuch to live for who so simply adored lifeand its variety of experiences. He thrived onchange. He said himself that the only problemwith life was ‘pace’ – he could never getthings to move quick enough. He wasalways saying “we have to move quicker

Becky – there's so much to do”. This usedto drive me a little crazy – the fact that hewas never satisfied, always wanted more.But it made me a better person because it was contagious – he made you want toexpand your own boundaries with him.

I loved his laugh – and, boy, did he loveto laugh! We all have such happy, oftenhilarious memories of all the times wespent together as a family. And though hewas a constant wind-up merchant (mainlyat mum’s expense) his sharp wit alwaysmade sure we had a great time. His love offamily was at the heart of everything he did.He strove to be a success – with no helpfrom anyone. At the age of 19 he set out onhis own, very chartered course to achievemany goals. Success to him meant freedom– the freedom to achieve more of his goals.He strove and he strove, and his passionand hard work produced a fabulouscompany that I’m delighted and honouredto be part of.

He was passionate about Baker Brothers,and he quite simply loved his job. He oftensaid he was dealing in the best aspect ofpeople’s lives – the celebration of love –and this man loved his diamonds! Hiscareer was very diverse and on his journeyhe had a wonderful life and met somefascinating people.

I will not dwell on the cancer, because ofmy hate of it, and I feel very sad that aftersuch an unbelievable effort of sheer willpower that he didn't slay the beast. It wasnot for want of trying – nine years ago hewas given six months to live, but that onlymade him more determined to prove themwrong. The only aspect of his illness I willmention is that my mother surpassedherself on every possible level in how shecared for him and rallied him on. She is aremarkable woman – which she wouldhave to be to live for 42 years with such acomplex man. He loved her with all hisheart – they truly were kindred spirits.

My eulogy to Kevin written and read at his funeral by his daughter Becky

It is never easy to remember when you firstmet someone and particularly so when,

however seldom you meet, when you domeet again you seem to pick up where you left off from the last occasion. This is arather long winded way of saying that I don’t remember when I first met Kevin butit is likely that it was at the NAG’s ParisConference of 1981. By then I was well onmy way to becoming one of ‘yesterday’s men’having taken up my place on the ‘backbenches’ of the NAG Council following mychairmanship of the Association in the year1976-78. However it was clear from theoutset that Kevin and I would ‘get along’and that we certainly did.

One aspect of Kevin’s personality I shallalways recall is that the sun always seemedto be shining when you met him. So muchso that the immediate impression was thathe would be always joking and that therewould be no need to take him seriously.How wrong can you be? Others I am surewill pay tribute to his enduring work on the Business Services Committee of theNAG when he was in his prime, but I wasnot in the picture really in those years.

I know however that Kevin had the ability, orwas it simply the knack, of catching peopleoff their guard and some found thatuncomfortable. Such an attribute – for thatis what I believe it to be – makes me think of the word ‘maverick’ and so Ichecked its meaning in the OED. I wascorrect in my thinking, for the definition

there says ‘an unorthodox or independent-minded person’ and so, yes, to me Kevinwas a maverick.

Looking back over the years I amdisappointed that I didn’t have the chanceto work closely with Kevin – or perhaps it isjust as well for harmony! Others knew himmuch better than I did and in reading Jack Murphy’s moving and very personaltribute I realise that I missed a lot. Kevin waskind enough to ask me to speak at theNAG’s Centenary Conference – where myfee was agreed to be a Mars bar! – andafterwards wrote a very generous note ofthanks in the centenary booklet. It was amemorable occasion. In that booklet thereis a wonderful photograph of Kevin asincoming NAG chairman and I think it reallyshows you the man, smiling as usual.

This year has not been kind to the NAG aswe have lost yet another good friend toillness: Edward Wain, Michael Norman andnow Kevin. The NAG has been enriched bytheir dedication and hard work for the tradeand none more so than Kevin. So anotherchapter has closed and in adding my thanksto those of others I recall yet again thewords written long ago: If, of all words oftongue and pen the saddest are “it mighthave been.” More sad are these we dailysee: it is, but hadn’t ought to be.

| NAG News


A tribute to the late Kevin Colemanby David J. Callaghan FGA


NAG News |

Tell us a bit about your business… Howdid you go from woodwork in your father’sshop to making jewellery?I came from a family who were very focussedon running their own businesses and myfather refused to let any of his children go touniversity as he thought it was a bit of awaste of time. Over twenty years ago manypeople of my parents’ generation felt thesame thing about university and I was noteligible for a grant. This meant that I had tobe very persuasive in coming up with aplausible idea for a career path, that wouldresult in a lucrative business. At the time,making jewellery was just a thought, it wasn’tas well known as a career path as it is today.I did an evening class and absolutely fell inlove with it from the first time I touched apiece of metal.

Your work features a lot of unusual and coloured gemstones. Do you createmainly one-off pieces?We have a huge amount of one-off pieces.We’re based on a small island and the last thing you want is to turn up to a partywhere people are wearing the same as you.It’s lovely working with the different gemstones; each one is unique. We alsohave the limited edition line which runs for

one or two years. Very often people don’trealise it’s there the first year, so it tends totake off in the second year. For this rangewe’d only make about a hundred piecesmaximum. The third collection is theCatherine Best Signature range whichincludes Love for Life (which relates to my father who passed away) as well asStarburst and the CB engagement and wedding rings. Although it does evolve overthe years, jewellery from this range willalways be available.

What’s your favourite gemstone and why?I would probably say tanzanite. It’s beenvery good to me in my lifetime. I rememberI went out of my way to buy my first piece.I then bought my second… and then thethird… I was one of few jewellery designersusing this stone at the time. I absolutely lovethe depth and the colour – there’s some-thing very spiritual about it.

What is your biggest inspiration whendesigning a piece of jewellery? Life – everything that’s natural. From theflowers and trees to the sky and the sea…everything that just exists. I suppose to anextent people can be very inspirational too.I’m very much a ‘people person’.

The studios are based in really interestingbuildings…Both mills are so beautiful. They are madefrom the most amazing local granite and aresteeped in history. I love the fact there areno sharp edges to the walls at the mills;they have a very natural form.

Can you share a story with our readersabout memorable customers?We had a gentleman call up one day sayingthat he’d inherited a lot of jewellery from hismother, but that his wife didn’t really like it.He’d been into the studio before and purchased a few pieces, but this time hewanted to know if we could redesign thejewellery. I said to him that he should sendit to us and we’d have a look at it and seewhat we could do. He was quite certain hedidn’t want to send it, and I was trying topersuade him that it was quite safe to post.After the third phone call I really couldn’tunderstand why he didn’t want to post thejewellery to us and at no point did he let onwhat the jewellery looked like. He decidedto visit us in person and he brought this bigchest of jewellery with him… inside werepieces that had 15ct rubies and 10ct diamonds… It was unreal. There was so muchof it that it took me months to design. Wemade some phenomenal pieces. I can nowsee why he was reluctant to send it by post!

If you would like your business to be considered as Member of the Month pleaseemail [email protected].

In this issue’s Member of the Month, Harshita Deolia talks toCatherine Best, an award-winning designer-maker based in theChannel Islands. With unique studios based in a converted millin Guernsey and in a windmill in Jersey, they are the perfectsetting for customers to see how her creations are a fusion of traditional workmanship and contemporary designs.

Member of the Month

I was one of few jewellery designers using this stone at the time. I absolutely love the depth and the colour – there’s something very spiritual about it.

| BJA News


The forthcoming royalwedding has undoubt-

edly brought some goodnews into an otherwisepretty bleak world picture.But as pictures of PrincessDiana’s ring on Kate’s finger whizzed around theworld to grace front pageseverywhere, I did feel an element of regret onbehalf of our industry, but fully understandthe sentiment behind the gifting.

The ring is undoubtedly beautiful (in aconservative, Crown Jewels sort of way), but it is hardly cutting edge and it certainlydoes not represent the vibrant, fashionablejewellery for which Britain and many membersof this Association are rightly becomingincreasingly well-known. It has also all beenseen before.

The hoo-ha about ‘the’ dress on the otherhand has only just begun. The media iscrammed with speculation about which hot,

young British designer, like the Emanuelsbefore them, will make their name and quitepossibly their fortune by being the chosenone. This story is going to run for monthsand the ultimate dress will undoubtedly setglobal fashion trends for far longer than that.

The ring however is already yesterday’snews. In fact I would like to bet that there arejewellers countrywide reading this piece who still have the look-alike pieces theycommissioned the first time round and failedto sell lurking in their stock cupboard.

Just imagine how different things wouldhave been if Prince William had commis-sioned one of the rising stars of British jewellery design to create a new ring for hissoon-to-be princess. What if the design they chose had employed cutting-edge techniques not normally seen in the averagejewellery shop? What if the ring looked completely unlike a traditional engagementring? Or incorporated a quirky modern material or unusual stone?

Any one of these options, let alone all ofthem, would have got people talking andbrought jewellery straight to the forefront ofthe popular consciousness. More importantlyit would also have set tills ringing as brides-to-be everywhere got a peek at just how greatcontemporary British jewellery design can be.

Perhaps it isn’t too late. Rather than optingfor a plain Welsh gold band like Di, maybeKate will cut a dash with a wedding ring for2011. However if that is to happen, we theindustry had better start shouting the casefrom the rooftops for the new, the exciting andthe different. Are there any aspiring designersout there looking for a commission? Weneed to show, not just Kate but womeneverywhere, that it’s not just the fashionindustry that can set the trend and gettongues wagging.

Keeping up with latest stringent regulationswith regard to both employment law

and health and safety issues can be a full-time job and the penalties for non-compliance, or for tribunal claims, can bedevastating.

To assist its members, both large andsmall, to ensure that they are fully compliant,the BJA has been negotiating with the health and safety and employment expertPeninsula to give members access to itsservices at a discounted rate.

A free introductory seminar is to be held atthe BJA’s conference facility in Birminghamon 18th January, 2011 to assist members in understanding the current position. Topicsto be covered include age discrimination,pregnancy rights, temporary lay-offs anddealing with ‘sickies’. There will also be a lookat risk profiling and how businesses can behelped to manage their health and safety

policies; new fire risk assessment regulations;liability insurance; lone worker policy andstaff induction training.

“This seminar, which is full of useful hints and tips, is really a must for all our members,” says the BJA’s Lindsey Straughton.

“Regulations now apply to companies of allsizes and non-compliance simply isn’t anoption. The services Peninsula offers will helpmembers to ensure they have the right systems in place for their particular businessneeds and will keep them regularly updated.Signing up for this service provides the addedbenefit of access to a 24 hour help line andthe provision of indemnity to cover lawyerscosts in the event of a legal problem.”

To book your place at the Seminar pleasecontact Peninsula on 0844 892 2771 quoting your BJA membership number.

Mike Hughes, chairman of the BJA

A royal opportunity missed

Free employment and Health & Safety law seminar for BJA members in January


BJA News |

Founded in 1964, Catherine Jones inCambridge was one of the UK’s first

contemporary jewellery retailers and hasbeen at the forefront of the movement eversince. It is thus no surprise to discover thatits current MD and BJA national committeemember, Vanessa Burkitt is busily carryingon the tradition of the shop’s eponymousfounder, her mother Catherine, in creating afew ‘firsts’ of her own.

Burkitt, who was formerly a political andTV journalist and her son Matthew (a formerCity trader) took over the running of theshop when Jones retired in 2003 and itwasn’t very long before Vanessa becamethe first ever retailer to join the BJA’sNational Committee – drawn there, shesays, by her consuming interest in the ethicsof jewellery production and her enthusiasmfor supporting British design.

Since taking over the business, motherand son have undertaken a number of significant projects and Mathew has sincereturned to the world of finance. The projects included a complete refit of thepremises; the installation of a sophisticatedcomputer, stock-control and general management system and most recently atotal rebrand of the website complete with

glamorous shots of the supermodel, CarolineSalisbury, taken during a photo shoot stagedat a local manor house.

The refit – featuring the company’s trademark Cambridge blue – was created toecho the company’s design ethos andBurkitt’s respect for the hand-made. Bespokecraftsmanship is reflected in every aspect ofthe interior. “We wanted to echo the wholeidea of real things made by real people, andcreate an ‘envelope’ to show off the work,”she explains. “We used a specialist artisancompany to dress the walls using an ancientVenetian technique where plaster is stainedwith pigment and then hand-polished withbeeswax to create a wonderfully subtle andlustrous effect. The display cabinets are alsobespoke and have been finished usinganother Italian technique of hand-craftedand crackled gesso, to complement thewalls,” she adds.

The final stages of the refit coincided withthe very worst of the credit crunch as well asmajor rebuilding works which led to shopsin the immediate area remaining empty formany months… potential customers werehardly being drawn to the street. “It was avery difficult time. We really held our breathbut I believe our investment in the premises

helped to see us through, as well as the greatstaff I have who major in customer service,”she says. The area is now booming againwith a number of new complementary shopshaving opened along the street.

So why did a retailer join the BJA which isnormally seen as the preserve of the supplyside of the industry? “Things are changing –there is now considerable overlap,” sheexplains. “Manufacturers frequently retail orsell on-line while retailers manufacture; this is good for the industry and we can all learn from each other. When I took onthe shop there was real controversy ragingabout sales of rough diamonds or ‘ConflictDiamonds’ funding wars in Africa, aboutwhich I felt great concern. I was drawn tothe BJA by its very positive stance and theexcellent work it was doing in educating the industry about this and the wholeKimberley Process,” she adds.

Four years later ethical matters are stillhigh on Burkitt’s and the BJA’s agenda, so much so that she has recently agreed to chair a sub-committee within theAssociation with special responsibility forworking to improve further the transparencyin the diamond supply chain. And she andthe BJA’s CEO, Simon Rainer, are currentlyworking closely together to define the scopeof this significant initiative.

“Working with jewellery is fantastic. Wedesign and manufacture great work in thiscountry and I am very sad to see so manyBritish producers struggling in the currentcircumstances. The more we at the BJA cando to represent them and to develop theinitiatives they need to support the trade,the better it will be for everybody,” she says.

Retail representative on the BJA National Committee

Vanessa Burkitt

Catherine Jones in Cambridge

| Security Update


The run up to the festive season getslonger every year and in October

preparations were well in hand for mostretailers, so the recent NAG Council meetingwas just the right time to review securityprocedures in advance of the silly season.Not just physical security measures, but alsothe processes that employers and staffadopt to ward off attempts; behaviours toadopt while a crime is in progress; and thedos and don’ts after any incident.

The added bonus of lunch at Fortnum andMasons attracted an audience of about fifty,first to get some hints and tips on reviewingyour procedures from Mark Beale (above) ofthe Metropolitan Police; a chance to brushup on some of the scams and modusoperandi employed by minor criminals,presented by Ian Kirke of Training forSuccess; and get an insight into where stolengoods end up, from Jim Mathieson ofetelligencia.

From his experience of addressingrobberies in the Metropolitan Police area,Mark Beale identified a number of issueswhich make the jeweller vulnerable. Many,regrettably, are problems which in the mainare self-inflicted. They include CCTVcameras pointing at walls or inappropriatelysited; poor or broken CCTV systems; remotesafe locking not used or broken; staff notfollowing procedures correctly; safes open

or with too short a time delay; and displaylimits not in place or exceeded. Countingthe direct costs of robbery, such as loss ofstock and cash, is relatively easy, as is theloss of profits through store closure. But justas damaging to business, and less easilycalculated, are the human and indirectcosts. Following a robbery, staff go off sickor, in many cases, leave the businessaltogether; then there are the consequentialcosts of recruiting and training theirreplacements; and time taken to attendcourt. Add in damage to displays; perhaps adisruptive post-event HSE investigation; andpossibly raised insurance premiums... andcosts really begin to build up.

Beale’s recommendations for reducingrisk include: undertaking frequent risk andsecurity reviews; ensuring that security

policies are implemented; investing inappropriate security equipment; continuallytraining staff in security issues andprocedures; joining a local crime reductioninitiative; and collaboration with otherjewellers in the neighbourhood. Last, butnot least, Mark reminded his audience toreport all crime and suspicious incidents toSaferGems: www.safergems.org.uk

SaferGems Update

October alone saw more than fifty incidentsand attacks reported to SaferGems,

bringing the total since the scheme’sinception in July 2009 to more than 550.Evidence over the last six months alsoconfirms that on average forty-five incidentsare reported to the scheme co-ordinator everymonth. Of these incidents approximately 200have taken place on West Midlands, ThamesValley and Metropolitan Police force areas.

Forty-six forces in total have been subject toincidents, which shows that jewellery crimeis increasing and remains a national problem.

SaferGems alerts remain integral to thesuccess of the SaferGems operation, withalmost 200 circulated since July 2009; theyare now being disseminated within policeforce intranet systems and being used ondaily briefing sheets within intelligence units.SaferGems is also being recognised as asource of information on police intelligencereports. They remain a useful ‘heads up’ forthe industry when attacks, attempts orincidents have occurred; have beeninstrumental in preventing and detectingoffences; and are also being used bymembers as part of their staff recruitmentand training. The circulation of distractionalerts in particular has proved successful withincidents and offences being linked not onlyregionally but nationally assisting businessesto recognise and identify potential suspectsand vehicles. The alerts have also beensuccessfully used as a means of circulatingstolen property and assisting police enquiries.

Principle trends include: smash and grabrobberies, perpetrated by attackers onmotorcycles armed with sledgehammers;multiple attacks on Asian jewellers in the

West Midlands; thefts targeting high valuewatch displays; and attacks on travellingjewellery sales people. Of particular concernis an increase in violent attacks on domesticpremises, which seem to be motivated bythe attractive market price of gold.

However there is good news to report,and SaferGems has received commendationsfrom the Police for its involvement in thearrest, in Leicestershire, of a gang of SouthAmericans who targeted jewellery reps;providing intelligence resulting in sentencesof up to six years for a Hampshire gang;alerting police to another sales rep offencein Coventry; identifying antique thieves inNorth Yorkshire; and the recovery of stolenjewellery by the Met. There really is noexcuse, sign up now!

Christmas Security As the Christmas period approaches, thieves, distraction merchants,and violent robbers gear up to take advantage of the crowds, darkernights and higher stock levels that assist them in their attempts tomake a dishonest living, says Michael Hoare.

“Forty six forces in total have been subject to incidents,which shows that jewellery crime is increasing andremains a national problem”


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Jewellerthe

picks...

RAYMOND WEILNoemia is the elegant and very femininenew ladies’ collection from Genevawatchmaker Raymond Weil. The polishedsteel case is set with diamonds, and the dial studded by four Roman numerals andeight full-cut diamonds. The watch comesin two different sizes – 27mm or 32mm indiameter according to model – with saddle-stitched leather strap or polished/brushedsteel bracelet. www.raymond-weil.com

DOWER & HALLWinter Bloom is a collection inspired by a20 year old Liberty art fabric print designedto celebrate Dower & Hall’s 20th anniversary.Silver and rose gold plated chain, togetherwith oxidised silver chain are used to holdsilver flowers with rose gold plate centres aswell as silver bud-like bells for extremelytactile pieces. www.dowerandhall.com

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RUBINIAThe Italian hand-made jewellery brandRubinia has just launched into the UK.‘Gioielli Secondo Natura’ is the firstcollection to be seen here and consists ofgems mounted in natural elements to givethe jewelllery pieces shapes that areunrepeatable. Each one is unique as far ascolour, style, cut and features, andcompletely handmade by craftsmen tocreate different combinations of stones andnatural mountings. Opal, turquoise, agateand aquamarine appear to be growing onbases of gold and silver leaf resin, taguanut, buffalo horn, ebony and shell.www.rubinia.com

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RACHEL ENTWISTLELondon-based jewellery design RachelEntwistle has created a collection of ethicaljewellery for Survival, the international triblepeoples rights organisation. The Organic leafand Lily pendant and earrings have beenmade from recycled brass and sterlingsilver. To help towards campaigns whichprotect land, community and environmentalrights, 15 per cent of sales will go direct to Survival. www.rachelentwistle.co.uk

SWATCHThe iconic Swiss maker of colourful fashionwatches has introduced a new five-pieceChrono Black Collection. Each model comeswith a black dial with colour contrasts andhighlights framed by the signature 47mmcase in brushed stainless steel with blackPVD. Black dominates each model – fromthe black stainless steel case and texturedblack rubber strap, to black dial and bezel.Vibrant colours on the dial and hands adda subtle highlight. www.swatch.com

ELENA CANTERSpanish jewellery designer and sculptorElena Canter launched her collection ofdramatic, avante garde jewellery pieces atLondon Fashion Week in February 2009.Inspired by the industrial structures of hernative Bilbao, she works in bronze, bluesilver and copper for her anatomical, tactilenecklaces, pendants, bracelets and rings.www.elenacanter.com

LUCAS JACKSelf-taught jewellery designer and one-time banker Nick Bartley launched Lucas Jack fouryears ago with the aim of creating quality, affordable, colourful jewellery. The 18 carat gold bangles, rings, bracelets, earrings and necklces are made from recycled ‘scraps’ anddecorated with stones such as chalcedony, amethyst, sandstone and peridot, as well as resin.www.lucasjack.com

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ST BARTHS COUTUREInspired by the exotic Caribbean island, St Barths Couture is the brainchild of CharlotteWilson, who wanted to create a collection of afforable, glamorous jewellery that echoed therelaxed, colourful but sophisticated way of dressing there. As well as bangles and chains, the line also includes Swarovski crystal-encrusted leather cuffs and wire cuffs in gold, silverand gunmetal grey. www.stbarthscouture.com

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KONPLOTTDespite having its own shops in cities as far-flung as Moscow, Paris, Peking andBerlin, the fashion jewellery brand Konplott– created by Miranda Konstantinidou – isonly now looking at the UK market. Thehandmade pieces using many differentmaterials, from brass and glass to crystaland embroidery thread, are bold, playful,textural and diverse in terms of themes –for spring/summer 2011 moving fromroses to African beadwork inspirations.Sales: 01304 224 288

DIAMOND BY APPOINTMENTNow designing totally through its own in-house design team, Belfast-based Diamondby Appointment has created three newstyles of platinum bridal bands. A ‘cocktail’of high-tech programmes has enabled thecompany to produce extremely clear anddetailed photo-realistic imagery from whichretailers can select. In addition, through thecompany's website, jewellers have theability to dial into its full stock-holding.www.diamondbyappointment.com

PERRELETSwiss watchmaker Perrelet has launchedthe Turbine XL – a breakaway from thebrand’s more classic models. Continuingthe same aeronautical inspiration as theoriginal Turbine, the new models, includingthis limited edition version in rose gold andDCL steel feature the double rotor in thegenerous 50mm case. www.perrelet.com

SWITCHCLICKThe bead phenomenon has just taken anew direction, with SwitchClick. This cleversterling silver ring, with its removable bar,allows the customer to wear a bead from allthe renowned brands, on their finger.Whether it's Truth, Lovelinks or Pandora, thelook of the ring, which retains its tension,allows for endless changes of look. Retailerscan also buy two styles of chain with aspecial 'ornament' loop that allows the ringto be attached and create a pendant. Ringsretail at £55 and the Starter Pack comeswith POS display, leaflets, 10 rings in ninesizes and two chains. Call: 01670 510222for details.

KIMBERLEY WATERHOUSEUsing slate from the west coast of Scotland,jewellery designer maker KimberleyWaterhouse has produced a very personalcollection of work. Using traditional skillsand modern techniques she creates naturaljewellery pieces which are tactile andsculptural – letting the slate speak for itself. She combines the slate with silverand gold to enhance the precious quality of the stone.www.kimberleywaterhouse.com

TRISORIThe London-based Italian duo behindTrisori, which launches this month, havebeen inspired by the geometry of Venetianvillas and the baroque spirit of Sicily, for a collection that remains contemporary in feel. Colour is a key hallmark of the line, which incorporates stones such astourmalines, iolites, citrine, garnet, chalcedonyand onyx set in gold plate for bold partypieces. www.trisori.com

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| BJA Retail Ideas


The AtelierDuffy is another designer who has gonedown the ‘atelier’ route. When I spoke tohim he was in the process of putting the finishing touches to a workshop/retail outletin the hip Shoreditch area of London. Hisshowroom, which will be open only ‘onappointment’ is ultra fashionable. Usingwhat he describes as ‘a white canvas’ thejewellery is displayed in black cases madefrom ornate picture frames. There is a centrepiece of an ancient safe with animal skullsand pieces of taxidermy to complete thelook which Duffy says has ‘a warmer feel’than most galleries.

As well as showing his own work, Duffywill carry jewellery and accessories from otherdesigners he admires. He sees no conflictbetween his ‘shop’ and the retailers he supplies. “None of them are based anywherenear me and in any case I don’t want a shopas such – more an area where I can showoff not just my collections but also mybespoke pieces, which is the area of mywork that I most enjoy,” he explains.

The Pop-up ShopFor those designers who have neither thespace nor the inclination to create a salesarea within their workshop, another alternative

way to retail is the ‘pop-up’ shop, whereby atenant takes space in otherwise emptypremises for just a week or two (often at apeppercorn rent) and creates their owntemporary retail outlet. This is a rapidlygrowing phenomenon. A recent search on‘Google’ offered me some eight million‘pop-up shop’ options!

A pop-up shop worked well last Christmasfor the designer maker, Daisy Knights. Shehad only just graduated when she waspicked as a ‘Bright Young Gem’ atInternational Jewellery London. Taking apop-up shop in December was an ideal way,as the company’s sales director, MichelleHiggs states, to capitalise on that success andto bring Knight’s jewellery to a wider audience.

“We went initially into a pop-up shop onthe Fulham Road in London as part of agroup of designers and when that tenancyended we decided to take the whole space

for ourselves,” she explains. “We had a bigparty on the opening night and eventuallystayed for two weeks. The sales easily covered the rent.”

Higgs believes that the impermanence of the pop-up shop is one of its attractions.“It makes it special. It also helps sales becausecustomers know if they don’t buy it whenthey see it, it quite literally wont be therenext week. In fact Daisy made some specialone-off pieces to really build on that fact,”she adds.

So how, in such a short time, do youattract people to the shop? “You need agood location but social networking is reallyimportant too. Daisy has a big following on Twitter and Facebook and some quitewell-known bloggers visited the shop andthen blogged about it, which drew in theirfollowers too,” says Higgs.

Providing an alternativeAs more and more consumers seek jewellery that is a little outside the mainstream, new retail outlets are springing up toprovide tempting alternatives to the traditional high street store.Mary Brittain spoke to some members of the BJA who are ringing the retail changes.

The ultimate goal must be to have lots of retail sales,” says the designer jeweller WilliamCheshire who has recently opened a small sales area and showroom within his production

facility just off Hatton Garden.Although Cheshire supplies galleries and independent retailers on a wholesale basis, he

believes that there are also numerous advantages in selling directly to the consumer.“Customers have always come to the studio to pick up commissions, and creating a salesarea has given me a great opportunity to show them what else I can do,” he says.

But doesn’t dealing with consumers directly also cause problems? “Well it can certainly bechallenging, but you do get instant feedback and it shows you what works and what doesn’t,”he says. “Seeing my jewellery being tried on helps me notice things I need to change. You have to be prepared to learn and to listen. Having more contact with consumers hasalso given me a sense of what people like, what sells and where to build up stock,” he adds.

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“I don’t want a shop as such – more an area where I can show off not just my collections but also mybespoke pieces.” Duffy

Duffy

William Cheshire


BJA Retail Ideas |

Assisted SpaceWhile not exactly pop-up shops, CraftCentral’s two retail venues – one in London’sSt John’s Square and the other in ClerkenwellGreen – offer members the chance to retailtheir products for just a short period, andthis is a tactic which has worked well for theLondon designer Sarah Herriott. Space costsfrom around £90 a week for the shop, toaround £120 for the larger space and then there is public liability and insurancecosts on top.

“Showing your jewellery in a retail environ-ment definitely helps you to pick up newcustomers. Sometimes people don’t evencome into the shop, they simply see a piecein the window and then they track youdown later. I also have a cabinet of jewellerypermanently on display in my workshop forexactly the same reasons – it gives peoplea wider understanding of what you do,”Herriott says.

Another choice for designers looking for a little help on the route to retail is Platformin Hatton Garden. This is a not-for-profit initiative set up in 2009 and, as Jamie Hansonexplains, all the jewellery in the gallery is displayed on a sale-or-return basis withPlatform marking up the designers’ whole-sale prices by 2.5 per cent and taking its cutas and when a product is sold. “Unlike aconventional jewellery shop we don’t dictateto suppliers what their wholesale price shouldbe, although we will advise them if we think they are pitching it too low or toohigh,” says Hanson.

To ensure that high-standards are main-tained, jewellery is selected by Platform’smanager Sarah Hutchison, herself a well-established designer maker whose role is alsoto counsel and advise inexperienced makersand students with regard to their designs.

“A conventional retailer will simply take a

designer’s work and absorb it into their stock.At Platform we give designers the chance toestablish their own brand awareness. Theirname and details appear with their workand we tell consumers all about them,”explains Hanson. “We also flag them up onour website, so that even after their time inthe gallery is over they can still be contactedby customers who may have seen their workbut not managed to buy it while it was ondisplay,” says Hanson.

The Commercial GalleryFor those designers who do not fancy goingit alone on the route to retail, there are nowplenty of commercial galleries and shopswhich will take their work. And one shop thathas been at the cutting edge of alternativejewellery retailing since it was formed someten years ago is ‘Wave’. Jo Henderson andher husband Paul have rapidly established ahighly-successful group of five jewellerystores with a sixth just about to open. Wavenow has three outlets in the Lakes; a flagship store in Manchester and a recentlyopened boutique in London’s Knightsbridge.Interestingly the couple is now to open ‘The W Collection’ in a shop adjacent toWave in Manchester. This shop, which is, Jo says, deliberately more ‘hard edged’ and

‘quirky’ than Wave, takes the Hendersonsback to their roots in so far as it will be runon a sale-or-return basis and will carry workfrom designers who are less mainstreamthan those sold in Wave itself.

“It will be a great testing ground for youngdesigners who may not yet be ready tomeet the needs of Wave, although we arehopeful that some of the people we stockwill progress and grow into being able toserve a broader market. The W Collectionwill also fill the undoubted demand formore cutting-edge designs,” Jo explains.

Although a designer herself, Henderson isslightly sceptical about the recent designerrush to retail. “Retailing jewellery and makingjewellery are two very different things.Retailing is a real skill and I would urgedesigners to think about it very carefully,”she advises.

Henderson is also keen to point out thatif designers are going to go directly to theconsumer then they must do so at priceswhich do not undercut those of their wholesale customers. “If they are selling toconsumers more cheaply or making salesonline instead of directing them to localstockists, they are doing nothing to help theindustry,” she warns.

These rules are, however, well understoodby the many designers who successfullystraddle both camps. Among the long list ofthriving maker/retailers who belong to theBJA are Diane Hall and Dan Dower whoselong-established ‘Dower & Hall’ is a shiningexample of contemporary jewellery retailing.So too is James Newman’s flourishing shop in Birmingham’s Jewellery Quarter;Alexander Davies’ quirky emporium nearSelfridges and Josef Koppman’s studio inthe Oxo Tower, London.

The final word goes to William Cheshire,who on his business card urges his customersto ‘Escape from the politely organised’.Could that be what this move towards alternative retailing is all about?

“Retailing is a real skill and I would urge designers tothink about it very carefully.” Henderson

Wave – The W Collection

Platform


Irecently found myself, along withothers, in the beautiful surroundings of

Fawsley Hall in Northamptonshire – anelegant if somewhat draughty Englishcountry house (my French wife, used tohermetically-sealed houses, might nothowever see beyond the gaps in the sashwindows). The oldest parts of the hall datefrom the beginning of the 16th century –worth stopping overnight if you are in thearea (www.fawsleyhall.com). Prior to myarrival – for a team-building event – I hadundertaken a Personal Profile Analysis,which is a study to identify the DNA of yourcharacter. It is widely used to ensure peopleworking together will benefit from eachother’s contribution rather than fight against it.The result of answering fifteen or somultiple choice questions was to receive anine page summary of my strengths andweaknesses – it was as if someone haddownloaded my own personal software.

The information arrived with a suggestionto give the document to someone whoknows you well to see what he or shethinks. I duly gave it to my darling wife whoexclaimed the reference to me being ‘highly

organised at home’ must be some computermalfunction, but in truth you could believe itwas written by someone who had know meall their life. So it was with the rest of us.Seemingly we are all of a certain type; youcannot change the person you are – justunderstand the areas you will excel in andavoid the areas you don’t.

The four categories are as follows:Dominant – 20 per cent of the population;Influential – 20 per cent; Steady – 50 per centand Compliant, just 10 per cent. It seemswe lost a lot of the ‘Dominant’ gene pool to the land of opportunity a few hundred

years ago, when they were given the greenlight to start again in the ‘New World’, but wekept a few to give us such personalities likeWinston Churchill, Margaret Thatcher and ofcourse Knight of the moment Lord Sugar.

The Influential category, a similar amount,gives us the great communicators. They are

friendly, positive, and like to be the centre ofthe stage. They are persuasive and verbal –such people as Bill Clinton and RichardBranson. Their downside is that they areself-conscious, suspicious and serious.

The Steady majority are the people thatactually make the country function andwithout them nothing happens. They aredependable, kind and good listeners. Theyin turn are also, on the downside, eager,restless and demonstrative. Steady, reallydefines the country – the fact that we willwait in a queue rather than jump it.

The Compliant group are the sort ofpeople who will run a tech department of acomputer company. They will come into yourstore and ask you the calibre of the watchthey may buy. They are the sorts of peoplewho will talk at you, and when you speakthey are not listening – just preparing thenext thing to say. They thrive on detail,accuracy, and are perfectionists. Fortunatelymore live in Germany and Switzerland thanin the UK. But they can make ‘stuff’ very wellindeed. One in any team is essential though,as they make sure you don’t walk into thesame roadblock that your predecessor didten years ago. In my NAG experience JackClelland-Brown was this person. He wouldrecall unheard of laws and protocols, keepingthe Association safe. Michael does a prettygood job in his absence it has to be said.

The whole concept is irrefutable. In thepast it was known as gut feeling, and thereis no doubting its benefits for teamdynamics. Whether a member of staff whoignores the blindingly obvious because itjust isn’t on their radar (like a full bin forexample) or a client who seems to ask somany questions. The trick is to understandthe pros and cons and coach accordingly. Itwas www.thomasinternational.net that wasthe provider and perhaps we will see if the

service may be made available to all at aspecial rate. For sure it will be in my nextrecruitment process.

From my keyboard and my soul I wishyou all a very happy and prosperousChristmas. Hopefully my daughter Amélie atnine months will not require jewellery.

What it does show you is rather than getting irritated by someone’s activities, you can understand thatthey don’t see what you see.

| Opinion : John Henn

Your character understood– wow what a revelation!John Henn submits to a little character analysis… and learnssomething about the rest of us.

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What is good design?’ It can have as manyanswers as there are people to ask.

For some it might mean minimalism, whileothers prefer certain colours and there arethose who have a very specific design thatthey are not willing to compromise on. It is,however, a question that a retailer mustanswer when considering a shop refit.

‘A whole new store look’ might not be thefirst thought to cross the mind at the tail-endof a recession; expensive operations oftenrequiring the closure of premises for a weekor more – it is understandable that mostowners shy away from the loss of tradingtime as we approach busy selling periods.

However this has not stopped severaljewellers from refitting current premises oreven opening entirely new stores. A fewindependents as well as big businesseshave taken the plunge and gambled on anew look to draw customers in this holidayseason, with names including Nicholas Wylde,Michael Lynes and Swarovski appearing on shop-fitters’ lists. In fact Nathalie Colin,creative director of Swarovski, says that therecession actually inspired the company tobe more innovative: “Crisis obliges brandsto be even more creative than usual, which we did. As a result, Swarovski openednumerous boutiques worldwide.”

This year the Shop and Display EquipmentAssociation (SDEA), a trade body that aimsto provide its members with purchasingpower and advice on trends in the shop-fitting and retail display markets, hasrevealed that demand for shop-fitting is onthe rise for the first time in two years. “A resounding 72.2 per cent [of the membership] registered an increase in sales over the last six months comparedwith the previous six months,” reports theAssociation’s September survey. This is fol-lowed by predictions of business increasingstill further in the new year. Lawrence Cutler, director of the SDEA, has called the movement, “a remarkable turnaround,”pointing to “the renewed energy and confidence now being experienced withinthe shop-fittings and display market.”

New Retail Week surveys by John Ryanalso chime with the SDEA’s conclusions,with several shop-fitters and recruitmentagencies serving the sector seeing anupturn in interest in recent months. Theconsensus appears to be that while not yetback to pre-2008 levels, the market isundergoing a significant increase in activity.

Why the sudden change? Retailers were,understandably, less willing to commit to

Tom Allen investigates the predictions for store design trends in2011 and reveals how and where you can save money in a refit.


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Swarovski

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investing in new store layouts for uncertainbenefits during the recession, but it appearsthat now that spending is on the increase,confidence is also returning to the highstreet and more store owners are willing toinvest in renewing their own brand to fitnew trends. Bath and Bristol-based NicholasWylde, who last updated his image 12 yearsago, opted for a subtle change in his colourscheme – from blue and gold to blue andsilver – to give his corporate image “a certaincrispness.” Meanwhile Michael Lynes, a jeweller whose customer base favours theappearance of a traditional jewellery shop,designed his new store in Henley to utilisean “updated traditional look,” where he compromised between volume and design.

Selling a showJudy Head of Head Creative Associates, acompany that works with small- to medium-sized businesses to raise the profile of theirgoods and services, makes a point of payingparticular attention to trends in windowsand displays. “The trend is definitely againstcrowded windows,” she says. “In part this is

due to buyers being very careful with howand when they invest their money in stock,and many jewellers still carry far too much.But it is also a response to the marketdemand to be entertained, to be made tofeel special and happy.” Head runs displayworkshops for the NAG and will be runningthe Essential course on 12th May and thenon 6th October next year.

Other trends that have been seen overthe past year include a favouring of brightcolours, theatrics and themed displays,especially in the run-up to Christmas. It mayseem like this contradicts the discreet-but-classy direction seen elsewhere, but really isjust a different way of promoting brands andstores. Displays that tell a story or reflect current popular desires for animals, fantasyfigures and retro designs have been verysuccessful, and of course these subjects allbring a wealth of colour and shapes notseen in jewellery stores for several years.

Displays that tell a story and have an easily understood message are incredibly

popular. “The story,” says Head, “should berelevant to the moment. Now it is Christmas;immediately after the break the weddingplanning season gets underway and this ispotentially big business.” Seasonal displaysare very popular, and the first half of theyear sees not only marital matters, but

Valentine’s Day, Easter, and Mother’s Day aswell, which then transition smoothly intosummer’s weddings.

Mistakes, however, are all too easy tomake when it comes to store design, andone of the most common places to make

them is in windows and display cases. It might be tempting to go as large andcolourful as possible to attract business, butremember that anything overly decorativewill detract attention from your product. Inaddition flexibility is key, with big displaysnow seen as a big mistake. “I regularly comeacross modular systems that don’t fit in the window and in some cases are so largethat it is impossible to reach the product displayed on it,” comments Head.

Selling sparkleA good white light has long been the preferred way of displaying jewellery tomake it really shine. In the past this was provided by halogen lamps, which are still alow cost option, but the real news lately isthe growing popularity of LEDs (light-emitting diodes), which have reached thepoint at which they are a viable alternativeto halogens.

The big draw of LED technology is two-fold: first the long service life (some canallegedly run for up to 11 years), and secondly the efficiency: back in 2003, CreeInc. developed an LED than produced 65lumens per Watt (lm/W) – more than fourtimes as efficient as standard 60-100 Wattincandescent lights, which operate ataround 15 lm/W, and the technology hasonly improved since then. Cree Inc.’s most recent development is a laboratoryprototype that achieves 208 lm/W at room temperature.

LEDs are a flexible lighting source, able toachieve a spectrum of colour temperatures.Simone Breedon of Display Lighting Ltd.,

Both independent retailers and big businesses have takenthe plunge and gambled on a new look to draw customers in this holiday season…

The DiaLumen system, marketedin the UK by P.J. Watson

Peter Jackson’s entrance, created by Hallmark

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a specialist manufacturer of lighting designedspecifically for retail and exhibition displays,praises this ability: “The colour temperatureof a white LED can vary dramatically andranges between 3000K – that has a yellowish appearance – up to 7000K, givinga bluish tinge to displays that is particularlygood for giving extra sparkle to diamonds,crystal and silver.”

One piece of LED technology that warrantsa particular mention is the DiaLumen system.Developed by Cyril and Jean-Claude Piletand marketed in the UK by P.J. Watson, itconsists of sets of moving warm and coldwhite LEDs that simulate natural sunlightinside the display case, allowing the jewelleryto really sparkle. “In the showcase, theDiaLumen system keeps the magic alive,”the advert boasts, and I must agree.

Reservations about LEDs are natural,though, and the technology does have itsdownsides. David Griffin of Hallmark Designand Shopfitting Ltd. says, “In order toachieve the levels required to illuminate amass display, you need to install ten timesmore fittings than the number of the conventional light fittings, which increasesthe initial cost. There is of course a paybackin the amount of energy used, but coupledwith the higher initial investment, this maytake several years to achieve.”

With rising energy prices the industry buzzis all about efficiency, with David Griffincommenting that it will probably be “thebiggest challenge shop designers will face inthe future.” LEDs are built for efficiency, andnewer ceramic halide lamps provide thesame amount of light as comparable incan-descents, at one fifth of the power usage.

Meanwhile the traditional low voltage halogens still provide vast amounts of good,clean white light; Stephanie Swallow ofApple Display and Shopfitting says, “We uselow voltage lights in window areas, as theintensity is a bit brighter than LEDs.”

There is a wide range of lighting availableto the commercial jeweller, and when considering a refit it is a case of choosingthe right lights to fit the store. Mark Giddingsof Giddings Design, which has a fantasticgrasp on contemporary trends in the shop-fitting market, says, “It requires knowledgeand professionalism to specify ‘which’ shouldgo ‘where’ to achieve the desired effect.”

Although there is a growing trend towardsLEDs, most companies still offer choicesand will be happy to advise you on the besttype – or types – of lighting for your store. If you are unsure how a specific light will look,then ask for pictures or go to a showroomto see the effect. As with all shop-fitting situations, do not make the mistake ofaccepting a proposed change without knowing exactly how it will look; this willhelp you to avoid heartache later on.

If it is not the windows, then the lightingis the area of the store most commonly misunderstood by jewellers – perhapsbecause it is so much a part of the back-ground ambience. According to MarkGiddings, misuse of lighting is in fact the firstand foremost mistake made by retailers.This is an area of the store where thoughtand investment will really pay off, so makesure you take time – possibly a full day – todiscuss it with your designer and hammerout a firm plan that you are both happy with.Finally, be aware to steer clear of ‘gimmicks’,like overuse of coloured lighting.

“We are not designing just for today, but for the future.”

Davril’s modern frontage designed by Hallmark

Jewellery glittering in a display case at Azendi

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Selling yourselfAnd so to return to a point discussed at thestart of this article – what makes gooddesign? When considering a store refit thisshould be a retailer's first question, as theanswer will define what the new premiseslook like. While thinking about that though, it's also important to take intoaccount how the new store will reflect theshop's brand image.

A shop embodies a brand. It is what customers will come to associate with thebusiness, and so it is important to give thema clear statement to show them what it represents. “The brand and reputation of thestore is by far the most important messagethat you have to put across to your potentialcustomers,” says Head; meanwhile designerDavid Griffin says, “It is vital that the designof a shop reflects the place the retailer wishesto position themselves in the marketplace.Customer perception is critical.”

So how does one go about ‘branding’ astore? The key is in cohesion; a brand canbe identified because of the similarity of thedesigns and materials, and this also holdstrue for a store. The shop as a whole will

look more impressive if the displays share aunifying feature, such as corporate colours, orsomething that defines the premises. TakeNicholas Wylde’s new premises in Bristol: it uses oak fixtures throughout, and so customers are constantly reminded of theunity of the store. Wylde’s use of his recentlyupdated corporate colours of blue and silveris also a focal point. Watts Design was boththe designer and shop-fitter of the refit.

Swarovski’s new boutique on Oxford Streetwas designed with the aforementionedquestion in mind: to the company theanswer is, “a design which fully reflects thebrand DNA.” As such the entire store

purposefully fits together with clean whitelines and sparkling crystalline formationsthroughout, leaving plenty of space dedicatedto the Swarovski products. “The priority wasto create a universe that perfectly expressesSwarovski’s identity. The new boutiquedesign clearly refers to our precisely cut

facets, and sets off our quest for perfection,innovation, creativity and refinement,” saysNathalie Colin.

But cohesion isn’t always about consis-tency. Part of what pulls Kruger Jewellers inWallasey together is the variety of its décor.With one wall made of moulded wood witha gloss finish, another covered in auberginebeaded effect paper, and yet another covered in silver and black pixelated paper,the interior could never be referred to as‘conventional’. However it is this differencethat makes the store, owned by Gill and Diederik Kruger, stand out and gives it the image that links it with the bespoke

jewellery sold there. The store was designedand refitted by Robert Nicholas Interiors.“He was very keen to use unusual materialsand create a bold, unconventional interior… he also created a minimalist retro-style window display which is verystriking and really complements the unique

“The brand and reputation of the store is by far the mostimportant message that you have to put across to yourpotential customers…”

Domino’s creative suite by Giddings Design


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style of our jewellery,” says DebbieFlowerday, the store’s assistant manager.Optical illusions that trick the customer arealso used: the back wall, although it appearspadded, is actually covered with the pixelated wallpaper, and the ‘recessed’chandelier – a real talking point – is actuallymade up of halogen-powered crystal bulbs on a mirrored ceiling plate. It is certainly one of the more inspired designsI’ve seen recently.

Counting the costJewellers are unfortunate in that their stores are among the most expensive of any retail premises to refit, with extremelyspecialist attention to detail required when it comes to lighting, detail and joinery. Thisis only made worse for those jewellers whodo not realise that there are many certified,trustworthy independents out there who willbe able to do the work for the same price orless than the larger firms.

One such business in Designing Interiors;owner and designer Deborah Ingram worksalongside shop-fitters, specialising in helpingretailers on a budget. She has several tipson how a retailer might be able to affordthat refit that he or she has been worriedabout – although for the most in-depthadvice you will have to go to the source!“However low a budget is, vast improvementscan be made to an existing store throughprioritising accordingly. For completely newshops, we would always advocate designingfor the best case scenario, and then working backwards from there to secure theright look for the right price,” she says.Although it is important for the retailer’svision to come through, Ingram also advisestrusting a designer’s judgement: “It can be difficult to be objective about the environments that [the retailers] have grownup in. As designers it is in our interest to provide the right solution.”

Stores on a budget tend to be smaller,but size is no obstacle to success – and why should it be? Large stores have moreroom for displays, but there is also the riskof clutter; an immediate turn-off to a potential customer. “Size does not matter aslong as the maximum focus to the stock isachieved through simple design, good lighting and good displays,” says Ingram.“Jewellers must de-clutter as much as possible, and that can be done for free.”

Protecting yourselfAlthough not every retailer has to worryabout budget, all do need to think aboutprotecting the investment they have in thestore. Which leads on to an important issue for jewellers – that of security.

Crime, including theft and armed robberies,rose dramatically in the recession. The infamous Graff Diamonds robbery, whichcost the Mayfair store roughly £40 million,made national headlines in 2009, but it wasfar from the only store to have suffered.

“As a result of the highly publicisedincrease of bandit attacks upon jewellerypremises, property owners are not justimplementing preventative measures withinthe window areas of the shop front, but also the entrance doors, which are nowbeing identified as a weak area that requiresserious consideration,” says Cheryl Jones of Door Systems Design, which designs,manufactures and installs doors for retailpremises. To counter this threat the company offers the All Glass Anti-BanditEntrance Door System, which can withstanda repeated attack with a sledge hammer foran average of 45 seconds.

It is important to find a reputable companyto do any security work – preferably a specialist. “If you don’t use a specialist shop-fitter, like a joiner, it is often the case that you have to compromise [on design],but the design specialists often includesecurity as standard,” says Michael Lynes.This includes companies such as HallmarkDesign and Giddings Design. “Ideally itwould be a wonderful society we live in ifeverything on display could be touched,though sadly this is not the case,” says MarkGiddings. “However, recent developments inglass, information technology, and securitytechnology allow refinement of ideals to suitmost applications.”

Happily, most companies are willing andable to incorporate security measures intonew store layouts. Some, such as AppleDisplay, specifically build to blend the twoaspects of store design together, makingsure that all areas are open and visible to staff. Nicholas Wylde has had an officeinstalled at the end of his new shop, whichis long and narrow, as an extra securitymeasure allowing the manager to work in aquiet environment while being able to keepan eye on events on the shop floor andreact accordingly. Keeping some membersof your staff separate like this is a good wayto respond to any sort of possibility of thestore being held up, as it allows someone to call for help.

“Jewellers must de-clutter as much as possible…”

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Most companies agree that there neednot be any compromise between designand security – both are important andachievable with some creative thinking.Nathalie Colin affirms what many jewellerswill be thinking, saying, “Security is a must you cannot compromise on, so theissue does not even occur; security has to fit the standards.”

Looking to the futureIn 2010 we saw a growth away from the‘traditional’ jeweller’s image and towardsmore minimalist, clean cut premises, andmany design companies are predicting moreof the same in 2011. It is important to keepon top of these trends and to take advantageof them, although do not let fashion completely decide how your store will look;as David Griffin points out: “We are notdesigning just for today, but for the future.”

“I think there will be a continuation of‘free-spirit’ thinking and a resolution to create a more personal and distinct ‘brand’styling to really engage with customers,”predicts Giddings. “The eco bias move tomore powerful LED lighting will continue asthese lights develop and become powerfulenough to use in retail situations. They havea particular benefit in counter displayswhere extremely low residual heat build-upcombines with options for choosing theactual colour temperature of lights to matchthe desired lighting effect.”

Deborah Ingram shares this view. Althoughshe is also of the opinion that trends shouldnot dictate design, she sees LEDs ready to

jump in popularity: “The only ‘trend’ that Ican see having major implications for all isLED lighting; to date we have resisted them,preferring dichroic lighting for the quality ofsparkle, but with their improvements andlow running costs the demand for good LEDsolutions is increasing.”

Stephanie Swallow of Apple Display agreeswith Judy Head’s conclusions of earlier:standout, interesting and innovative window

displays will remain popular, as will openstores and simplicity. “[Jewellers] don’tseem to be going for the traditional windowdisplays anymore, they seem to be going formore freestanding glazed units and simpledesign to open up the shop and createmore light,” she says.

Time to be boldAlthough the shop-fitting market is recovering, it is still suffering from the after-effects of the recession. Competition forbusiness has driven prices downwards, andmany companies are now offering the sameservices at a much more affordable cost.

Retailers who are bold enough to seizethe moment could be rewarded with a storerefit at excellent value, provided that theyknow what they are looking for and are notafraid to shop around to find just what theywant. Stay true to the vision you have foryour store, is the message, but do not lockyourself into a theme that cannot bechanged at a later date. As David Griffinreminds: “Shopping follows trends and fashions, and our shops must reflect thesechanges. We have to design in flexibility sothat at very little cost the shop can assumea brand new image.” �

Common shop-fitting mistakes“All too often the last consideration in store design is lighting and its effects. The lightingshould be viewed as the icing on the cake; I often see some fantastic store designs andideas let down by inadequate lighting design.” Ron Coleman, Director, BARO

“The use of somewhat old fashioned ‘halogen spot lights’ within display cabinets.Producing immense amounts of heat, they can create an extremely uncomfortable ‘hot’environment in which to peruse your potential expensive purchase! One assistant actuallyhad burns on her hands from retrieving jewellery from the oven-like display!”Steve Burridge, Hera UK

“Over-embellishing an interior distracts from the product; self- and badly-covered displayitems are a crime; poor and wrong lighting can be fatal; shop-fitters with no design teamor no experience who ‘have a go’ are a false economy.”Deborah Ingram, Designing Interiors

“Too many jewellers ignore the important fact that their customers want a bit of variety, so changing the windows frequently – every day is just fine – will show that you care aboutthem, care about your stock and appear to be busy even if you are not!”Judy Head, Head Creative Associates

“On occasion we have noticed that people have merchandised their new shop-fit incorrectly,such as not utilising display space to its advantage, or overstocking. Use of old suppliers’cabinets/displays is also a problem.”Stephanie Swallow, Apple Display and Shopfitting

One of several differently-textured, display case walls at Kruger


Swiss designed and manufacturedshowcases to hire and buy. Give us a call and let us quote for your project.

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To register for your free visitor badge and for further information please visit

www.scotlandstradefairs.co.uk

Thousands of products for you to choose from for the year ahead, from trusted favourites to brand new suppliers.

Over 500 suppliers exhibiting the very best Scottish and international ranges with thousands of new ideas to tempt your customers.

New companies to the show include:Talbot Fashions, Carrie Elspeth, Trollbeads, Watch This Space, Carrie Me, Newbridge Silverware,Peace Of Mind, Kutuu, Eve Shaw, Kimberley Waterhouse, Rovini Jewellery, I Am Jewellery.

The Launch Gallery, showcasing brand new companies will host another 30 exciting companies with brand new ideas and includes:Anna Hinnigan, Corinne Lapierre, Kimberley Waterhouse, Emma Dolan, Lil Bubba Things, Northumbrian Candle Co, Corsbie Furnitureand Cards by Nina Molloy.

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Scotland’sTrade Fair

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Paris Fashion Weeks comprise essentiallyfour different events – two ‘Shows’ and

two ‘Pre-Shows. Thanks to the 100,000international buyers these events attractParis is becoming an increasingly importantdestination for British designers, with some 250 companies – jewellery, fashion

and accessory producers – taking part this year. However for the uninitiated it isnot easy to know where and when theyshould exhibit.

“One of the very complicated thingsabout exhibiting at Paris Fashion Week is themultitude of different venues and differentcompanies organising events and it is difficultfor the outsider to know where best to showtheir wares,” says Lindsey Straughton.

Both the BJA and ‘UK Fashion Exports’ (partof UK Trade & Investment) can offer would-be jewellery exhibitors help and informationand the latter produces a very useful map‘Brits in Paris’ which directs visitors to whereBritish companies are exhibiting.

Among the British designers at this year’sautumn event were Erickson Beamon at‘Tranoi’ at the Louvre; Katie Rowlands at‘Vauxhall Fashion Scout’ at Galerie Ouizeman;Akong at ‘Vendome Luxury Trade Show’,Place Vendome; Perle de Lune at ‘The Box’and Alex Monroe and Kira Bella at ‘PremiereClasse’ in the Jarden des Tuileries.

New this yearFirst-timers this year were Jasmine Alexander,Duffy and Alexander Davis who exhibitedtogether as ‘The British Fire First’ in the fashionable Nadine Gallery on Rue d’Algerwith rave reviews in the global media.

“It is really gratifying to see how thesebusinesses have grown their export profilessince they first exhibited with LJE at Kara twoyears ago,” says Straughton who attended

the event. “Their return to Paris in their ownright is exactly the outcome we would havehoped for from the mentoring they receivedthrough the project.”

Details of a number of London-based jewellery exporters can be found on theLondon Jewellery Export’s website at:www.londonjewelleryexports.com

| BJA Designer Exports


Brits a hit in ParisThis autumn’s Paris Fashion Week (1st-4th October) was a hugesuccess for a number of British jewellery designers, many ofwhom participated in the British Jewellers’ Association’s project‘London Jewellery Exports’.

www.alexmonroe.com

www.ericksonbeamon.com

www.katie-rowland.com

www.jasminealexander.com


Ethical Jeweller |

It struck me as remarkable – what Paul wasdoing to help this community – and when

I realised that he was just down the roadfrom me I gave him a call; maybe I couldhelp in some way,” explains Kelsall. “Paulsuggested that perhaps I could buy some ofNqobile’s jewellery, but as we retail only ourown designs that wasn’t possible. I thenrealised that I needed beads for a braceletdesign and remembered that Paul saidNqobile also worked with glass.” Bingo.

Using NQJ’s work as a starting point,Kelsall provided Nqobile with a rough guideto colours that she wanted, along withshapes and sizes of the hand-made beads,and then left the actual designs to him. “I ordered a hundred beads and asked for20 of five designs,” she says, “but when the order arrived I was amazed to discoverthat I’d been sent a hundred unique beads– each one was totally different!

“And the quality is exceptional. They aresimilar to those made by the leading beadsuppliers, but taken to a new level; theyhave incredible depth and each one is a tinywork of art – they must have taken a longtime to make. We have put them onto astatic silver bangle and they look amazing.”

Because Harriet Kelsall Jewellery is knownfor creating certain designs and then moving

on to a new look, the bead collection willhave a limited run, but she is definitelyencouraged to work with Nqobile again onnew pieces. In the meantime NQJ hasreceived a further, much-needed fillip: on16th November the company was declaredone of the winners in the Soweta regionals ofthe SAB KickStart Awards, a platform createdto stimulate sustainable enterprise develop-ment in South Africa. An early morning text to Sturgeon confirmed that Nqobile hadbeen given a grant of 60,000 Rand (about£5,500) and a package of office equipmentincluding printer, scanner and Blackberry.The win also places Nqobile in the running

for next year’s national awards, the prize forwhich includes invaluable mentorship.

Alongside opening his first UK account –the beginning of what he hopes to be anever increasing export portfolio – this prize isa fitting cap to what has been an eventfulyear for Nqobile. He now employs four people– as we go to press – with the hope ofincreasing this to five by Christmas; this has been a roller coaster of an experiencefor him and in his words: “I feel like cryingsometimes because it’s tough and it takes a lot of sacrifices”

Nqobile and Spurgeon will also be rollingout this very same model early next year,working with ladies in Kenya (also mentionedin our April feature) that have or have beenaffected by Aids and or violence. This directapproach to aiding those marginalised ordisadvantaged has proved very effective anddoes not rely solely on hand-outs, but rathera ‘hand up’. “We have decided to call thisproject ‘Cornerstone’ as it embraces theconcept of a people once rejected and sidelined to a new era of respect andempowerment,” explains Spurgeon.

And having also learned about Spurgeon’sinvolvement with this craft-coperative,Harriet Kelsall has also offered to producedesigns for jewellery pieces that the groupcan produce. “It’s still in its embryonic stageand the ideas have to be realistic andachievable as well as of the highest quality,but I feel fairly confident that if this story isput together in a cohesive and commercialway, with jewellery that is a stylish fusion ofEuropean and African product, it will work,”says Spurgeon. “Some things, for some reason strike a chord and so you have torun with them… otherwise you lose out onsome deeper, personal level.”

Beads from Nqobile on a silver bracelet by Harriet Kelsall

“

Amani Women Group in Nairobi

In The Jeweller back in April we ran a particularly inspirationalstory about designer jeweller Paul Spurgeon and the work thathe is doing with Soweto Township-based business NQ Jewellery(NQJ), owned and run by Nqobile Nkosi. The feature instantlycaught the eye of NAG member Harriet Kelsall who runs a successful jewellery design and retail business with outlets inHertfordshire and Cambridge, and today she too is workingwith the talented young maker.

Soweto Success Story

Make sure you’re kept in the know by subscribing to the only jewellery trade magazine supported by the industry’s two key trade bodies for retailersand manufacturers, the National Association ofGoldsmiths and the British Jewellers Association.

Cost of 10 issues including p&p = £77.00

Sign up today to ensure you receive our bumper100 page Spring Fair preview issue!

Simply complete and return this form to: National Association of Goldsmiths, 78a Luke Street, London, EC2A 4XG or email: [email protected]

| Insurance Matters


Having the right insurance policy –worth its weight in goldAre you aware of the impact that the rising price of gold couldhave on your business? Jewellery insurance expert Neil McFarlanefrom T.H. March suggests that you should consider it.

If preparing for the New Year and the risein VAT isn’t enough to worry about, then it

certainly isn't the time to find yourself at aloss when it comes to the cost of gold.

Recent years have seen the value of goldskyrocket and in the past year the price hasincreased by a further 25 per cent, with eachday bringing the possibility of a further rise.Although its independent value neveressentially changes, its worth against paper money has been steadily increasing,particularly in light of the ongoing instabilityof the economic market.

As jewellers, this dramatic increase wouldcertainly not have escaped your attentionand it is important that precautions aremaintained to ensure you do not find

yourself out of pocket. As professional insurance brokers, T.H. March would like tomake you aware of the possible implicationsthat could arise from this inflation withregards to your current insurance cover.

Many of you will have a ‘replacement costprice’ basis of settlement, which enablesyou to claim for the cost to replace items atthe time of loss – not the cost at which they were originally purchased. If you haveitems of stock purchased over 12 monthsago, the cost to replace these today will besubstantially higher, so this basis of coverwill prove beneficial. However, it is essentialthat your total stock sum insured on yourpolicy is adequate to take into account current replacement values.

If you have an ‘original cost price’ or ‘costprice plus a percentage’ basis of settlement,the difference in replacement prices overtime will not alter. However, the financialrepercussions of this fixed arrangementcould be huge and devastating in the eventof a loss, due to the extra cost you wouldhave to fund to replace your stock in thecurrent market.

It is strongly recommended that you regularly carry out revaluation of your stockto ensure you are adequately protected, taking into account the current bullion andgem prices. Should you need any advice or information on insurance policies includingthe T.H. March jewellers block insurancevisit: www.thmarch.co.uk

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Unsurprisingly, images of jewellery dropinto my inbox every day. Much of it is

unsolicited (though always welcome) andthe rest has been requested by me, to illus-trate or support some feature or another.Whether accompanying a press release oran introductory letter however, the imageshave been sent in the hope that they willmake it on to the pages of The Jeweller.Sometimes they do… and then again,sometimes they don’t.

My eventual choice of one photographover another is never arbitrary. And by thesame score, a decision to abandon a wholeset of pictures from one source is never ran-

dom – it’s generally that the images areunusable. Photographing jewellery is noteasy and getting it wrong, in one way oranother, is all too commonplace.

So, what constitutes good photography?Well, from my perspective and in the veryfirst instance, an image that I am sent has tobe of a quality and resolution that is highenough to reproduce in the magazine. If,once it is scaled up beyond two centimetressquare, say, it becomes an indistinct blur,then it’s trashed I am afraid. Sometimes wehave time to call in a better version… butvery often we don’t – working to a tightdeadline rarely permits this.

When it’s good…But before I am even sure whether the size is adequate, a decision is made oninstinct and on personal preference, almostsubconsciously, as a reaction to the image.How could it be otherwise? “The whole purpose of a jewellery photograph is tomake the person looking at it want to buyand own it. It should convey the essence ofthe design and make the viewer want topick it off the page,” says photographer PaulHartley, whose clients this year have includedthe likes of Goldsmiths, Beaverbrooks,Christopher Wharton and Mappin & Webb.

“Good photography is when the jewellerycomes alive and I guess it should actuallylook better than it looks in real life,” says New York-based Graeme Montgomerywhose current clients include Graff andSwarovski and whose editorial work appearsin magazines such as Tatler and VogueGioiello. “It has to make the piece desirableand should do justice to the craft and thematerial,” adds Elke Bock who is responsiblefor photographing the collections of designerUte Decker.

There’s a lot for the photographer to consider: “Good photography should showevery aspect of the piece; be perfectly lit;metals should be discernible as polished ormatt; stones should be clear, contrasted andshow the full spectrum of colour, or, withdiamonds, show refraction and natural fire,”explains Andrew Neilson, to whom the likesof Garrard have entrusted their imagery.


Photographing jewellery is a fine art, requiring care, technicalknow-how, craftsmanship and much patience. Belinda Morrisexplains why it should never be undertaken lightly.

Graeme Montgomery for Bazaar

Packshot Factory


Feature |

Hardly surprisingly, the big internationalluxury brands tend to be in a league of their own when it comes to great jewelleryphotography. When asked for their opinionon who gets it right, Cartier’s name comesup time and time with the professionals.And this is closely followed by Holly Golightly’sfavourite store – “the most common requestwe get is: ‘Can you make it look like Tiffany?’”says Julia Rydzynska, managing director ofPackshot Factory – and Gucci (“they combinegreat imaging with trend-leading fashion layouts,” says Neilson). With my consumerhat on, I’m personally drawn to those ads inVogue that show a detailed close-up of apiece on one page, with a ‘lifestyle’ modelshot opposite – Chanel and Dior are bothusing this inspirational device pre-Christmas.

And when it’s bad…No need to name names, but those photographers who are renowned for theirwork with jewellery (and watches) are quickto identify what constitutes a bad image. “Badphotography makes the jewellery ugly,” saysHartley. “Common mistakes I see are that theitem is poorly lit; often leaden-looking; over-retouched or under-corrected; dark under-litdiamonds; over-lit bleached out diamonds;amateurish, careless arrangements of chainsetc etc. Corners are being cut because ittakes a long time to do it correctly.”

“I think jewellery is the hardest thing to photograph,” says Montgomery, “and notmany get it right. Bad is when you just seeall the flaws and the jewellery looks dull andflat. Often you are showing it larger than lifesize and, when it is frozen still in a picture, itis hard not to see all the tiny scratches andflaws. Also gems sparkle when they moveunder the lights. In a stills picture you can’tcapture that so you have to in some wayimply it,” he adds.

“Jewellery is a pretty complicated subjectvisually, by which I mean it has often gotintricate reflective outlines and is quite

fine so that, if it’s placed against busy backgrounds, it visually fights them and islost,” explains Hartley. “Bad jewellery photography will often have an interestingbut over-fussy background that swamps the jewellery. It’s all too easy to get carriedaway by the props and styling and lose sight of the purpose of the shot.”

And why is it that poor photographymakes its way into advertising and editorial?Montgomery has his view: “Most jewellersare very conservative and don’t really seemto understand fashion and imagery.Foolishly, I think, they tend not to invest in itin the way they need to,” he says. As youmight expect me to say, the key to gettingthe images that you want and your jewellerydeserves, does not lie in doing it yourself,but to go to a professional.

Brief encounterFinding a photographer is the easy bit; on-line there are hundreds. “Selecting theright one for you is trickier, though,” saysphotographer Jonathan Pollack. “However, ifyou like the images on a photographer’swebsite and they are in the right location,make an appointment to see them with theirportfolio. The right professional photographerwill have in-depth knowledge of all the factors required for a successful shoot.”

Having chosen a photographer the nextstage is to brief them as to your requirements.“You may ask ‘why brief them – they shouldknow what to do?’ Let me put it this way,would you ever commission a builder tobuild an extension for you without a brief?So, communication is key,” Pollack adds.

The whole purpose of a jewellery photograph is to make theperson looking at it want to buy and own it. It should conveythe essence of the design and make the viewer want to pickit off the page…

Andrew Neilson

Paul Hartley – Azuelos ring

�

| Feature


It’s not a straightforward business though.“A detailed brief removes ambiguity, but canconstrain the creative process; while a totalfree reign is rarely that, and invariably endsup in rework to meet the virtual brief… thatwas probably there all the time,” explainsNeilson. “Understand what your client reallywants, show him what you think he needsand then listen – that way everyone endsup delighted.”

For Graeme Montgomery a starting pointis essential. “The minimum is for a client togive you a pile of pictures that they love,” hesays. “One of the joys of my job is that every client is different. Some know exactlywhat they want and it is up to me to give it to them – but hopefully make it better. For other people they need to be led throughthe process. Ideally brands should work withart directors who will look at their brand and

come up with a coherent image directionthat is right for it.”

In Hartley’s view “the best shoots are acollaboration and the most important part islistening to the client at the briefing phase.”He finds that he or she usually has a mentalimage of the kind of brand they’d like toproject and he’ll be given examples of existingimagery as a guide for the sort of look orarrangements. “More often we work out astyle that suits them and I try to introducenew ideas so that the result is greater thanthe sum of its parts,” he says.

Whether to go for the girlOne fundamental that has to be sorted fromthe start, is whether a jewellery collectionshould be photographed on a model or not.It’s a budgetry consideration (models don’t

come cheap) as well as an aesthetic andstrategic one. “Putting jewellery on a girlalways sexes it up and is good for image,but the pieces always end up quite small in the pictures,” warns Montgomery.

“It’s all about what the image is trying todo or convey,” explains Rydzynska. “To sell a particular product you are best to shoot abeautifully lit item on a white background

to concentrate on the product itself withoutdistractions. If you are trying to convey alifestyle choice to the end user, then youmight try something more creative withprops or models.”

And Pollock is quick to highlight how thesums can add up. “Using models adds the glamour and the mood to the material,but I would always recommend using professional models from model agencies,”he says. “They are well worth the investmentand the best way is to organise a castingprior to the shoot to select the right modelfor your promotion. It is not cheap but when executed properly with a makeupartist and stylist to source the clothing, theshots will speak themselves and sell yourproduct,” he adds.

Ideally brands should workwith art directors who willlook at their brand and comeup with a coherent imagedirection that is right for it.

Graeme Montgomery for Graff

Lucy Davenport for Anthony Blakeney

Paul Hartley for Winterson Pearls

�


Packshot Factory Ltd Studio Photography & Image Manipulationa: 39-41 New Oxford Street London WC1A 1BNt: 020 7379 3080 :: f: 020 7240 9568w: www.packshotfactory.co.uke: [email protected]

Jewellery photography for advertising, catalogues & websites.

| Feature


A good photographer, who is used toshooting jewellery on models, will knowthese things, but it’s important to check thatthe chosen girl has perfect skin and thatincludes hands and finger nails – retouchingis a time-consuming, painstaking and there-fore expensive process.

Counting the costHow much a photo shoot costs is a piece ofstring thing of course – there are many ele-ments to take into account. But there are afew general rules of thumb. “You will needone budget for photography and another forretouching,” explains Pollock. “At the cheap-er end a single piece of jewellery can beshot in five minutes and for under £10, butit will have limited use as it will be of poorquality. At the other end of the spectrum asingle shot will cost many hundreds ofpounds and take all day if not two. Midrange prices – expect to pay anywhere from £25 to £300 per shot depending onquantity and the type of brief.

”For good photography, the budget needsto allow for retouching and is an additionalfee,” he continues. “The price will vary but onaverage it will be about 30 to 40 per cent ofthe photographer’s fee. The retoucher’s jobis to remove the scratches, dust, fingerprints

and to improve for example the clarity ofany stones. In addition, they improve thelook of the shank, chains and bangles andmake any colour corrections. Retouchingenhances good photography, but it cannotimprove poorly lit jewellery.”

Of course there are some – namely thosewho sell on-line – for who good photographyis essential. “Some will think that to shoot afull collection is costly and something thatcan be cut back on,” says Lucy Davenportwhose clients include Anthony Blakeney,“but I feel it is worth doing. If you can’tafford to have the full collection shot, consider selecting your key pieces and havethose shot professionally, or just one piece,

for example for the opening page on yourwebsite, to create an impact. If your piecesare shot well, the jewellery looks fantasticand the whole look of your website oronline shop will be given a face lift, lookingcleaner and professional.” �

DIY Photography TipsIf you must do-it-yourself, here are a few tips from Packshot Factory...• Spend as much as you can afford on a high quality camera and macro lens. • Digital will show you the results immediately which will help when experimenting. • Don’t waste money on cheap equipment as you will end up going to a

professional anyway.• Practise with different lighting set-ups.• Learn Photoshop if you want to produce high end imagery.

…from Lucy Davenport:• If you’re wanting to save budget and shoot your own material, my suggestion is

to be critical. I’m yet to see someone who isn’t a professional shoot well on a white background.

• However, I have seen some stunning images that a jeweller has shot on texturedbackgrounds and just using natural light.

• I would also suggest you shoot digitally as you get instant results and can immediately see if your composition and lighting is working.

…and from Paul Hartley:• Less is More – put fewer items on a page. • Put space around the items and also space around the edge of the page. Don’t arrange

items to the edge of the page unless they break the edge.• Use a digital single-lens reflex camera with a macro lens and a good sturdy tripod.

…and one or two warnings:“Don’t do it! The secret if you want to know (but I doubt it will help) is that it is likeshooting in a hall of mirrors. Every surface reflects what is at an angle to it. That’s why it is so hard.” Graeme Montgomery

“Jewellery light cubes are great for stock references and valuation references, but theyproduce grey flat results and unless you’re very skilled at Photoshop you’ll struggle andthe results will be disappointing.” Paul Hartley

“Photographing jewellery on models can be a minefield – casting is key as well as thetranslation of the brief.” Elke Bock

“Engage a professional. Good photography should never be sacrificed when it’s the most fundamental aspect of launching a product.” Andrew Neilson

If your pieces are shot well,the jewellery looks fantasticand the whole look of yourwebsite or online shop willbe given a face lift.

JonathanPollock

Elke Bock

Be sure you are the stockist in your area!

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| BJA Valentine’s Jewellery


It’s a love thingHearts & Kisses for Valentine’s Day 2011 from the BJA

FREDERICK BThe ‘Intimacy’ range showcases its unique and exclusive ‘intimate setting’ which positionsone stone over another or series of stones so that they are almost touching. All rings in the‘Passion collection’ are in platinum and are available in 0.50ct – 3.00ct with clarity optionsof H/si to D flawless. All are designed to be paired and fit snugly with the intimate fit wedding and eternity bands. The channel set ring featured has baby pink sapphires below afine white diamond. RRP: £5,500. T: 020 7043 8136 W: www.frederickb.com

LEBLASThis intricate heart pendant features heartswithin hearts and is included in the newspring/summer 2011 collection by ethicaljewellers Leblas. It is in 18ct white goldadorned with diamonds. RRP: £845 T: 020 7730 3418 W: www.leblas.com

ZINFINITYThe Aurora collection, inspired by light andshadow, is created by entwining sterling silver with pure silver and gemstone hearts.As the sun falls on the jewellery a colouredheart shadow will appear on the body.Available in a wide range of colours. RRP: for earrings and pendants from £49. T: 07944 974 891 W: www.Zinfinity.co.uk

POLY PHILIPPOU The Greek Hearts Collection is a range ofstriking pendants, earrings, charms andbracelets – the pretty textured hearts arebased on a traditional Greek design and on Hellenic vintage jewellery. These piecesare made from solid silver and are hall-marked. RRP: £40-£125 T: 07775 658833 W: www.polyphilippou.com

DOWER & HALL Designed to enclose a picture or love token– and then worn close to the heart – thesehand-carved lockets deserve to be on everygirl’s wish list. Look out for classic solid silverhearts, stylised oval shapes with delicateengraving or round designs set with prettygemstones such as diamond or amethyst.RRP: from £160. T: 020 7819 9047 W: www.dowerandhall.com

DOMINOThis heart-shaped, diamond-set pendantand earring suite is from Domino. The contemporary-styled pieces, in either yellowor white 18ct gold with HSi brilliant-cut diamonds, come nestling on black tissue in their own heart-shaped, red, papier-mâché presentation box. And this lovinggesture won’t break the bank, with the pendant retailing at under £200 and earrings at just over £400. T: 0121 236 4772W: www.dominojewellery.com


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Dress - Joe Challita Photograph - Dave Piper

CONTACTS PROMOTE SUCCESS.

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| Antique Jewellery

Elizabeth Taylor is known for many things.There’s her illustrious cinematic career,

which began in 1942 when she was justnine years old; her beauty; her enthusiasmfor getting hitched (seven husbands at last

count) and her admirable and tireless effortsas a charitable fundraiser (so far, she hashelped raise many tens of millions of dollars for her AIDS charity, The ElizabethTaylor Aids Foundation).

However, aside from all of this, Taylor isalmost as well known these days for anotherof her personal enthusiasms: jewellery. Theactress is a lifelong lover of fine jewellery, andowner of some amazing diamond pieceswhich, according to the actress herself, wereall gifts from husbands and admirers. As she(modestly, of course) put it, “I’m fortunateto have some very important pieces of jewellery. I don’t believe I own any of thepieces. I believe that I am their custodian,here to enjoy them, to give them the besttreatment in the world, to watch after theirsafety, and to love them.”

Taylor Burton diamond With Elizabeth Taylor and jewellery, it is hardto know where to start, but probably thebest place is in the Parke-Bernet Galleries inNew York where, at an auction in October1969, she became the intended recipientof a huge diamond, weighing in at nearly 70 carats. This became known, for obviousreasons, as the Taylor Burton diamond. Byfar the most famous of Taylor’s diamonds,the Taylor Burton diamond was a whopping69.42-carat pear-shape. This D Flawless pieceof loveliness was cut from a rough stoneweighing 240.80 carats, found in the SouthAfrican Premier Mine in 1966. The stone wasfirst owned by Harry Winston, after which itbelonged to Harriet Annenberg Ames, sisterof the then US ambassador in LondonWalter Annenberg. Declaring it too big to beworn, Annenberg-Ames put the stone up forauction to save it from languishing in a safe.“I found myself positively cringing andkeeping my gloves on for fear it would

have been seen. I have always been anextremely gregarious person and I did not

AntiqueJ E W E L L E R YDiamond LizWhen you think of famous and fabulous bauble lovers, you think,almost instantly, of Elizabeth Taylor. Jo Young takes a rummagethrough the London-born star's diamond-filled jewellery box

I n a s s o c i a t i o n w i t h F e l l o w s & S o n s


Antique Jewellery |

enjoy that feeling. It sat in a bank vault foryears. It seemed foolish to keep it if onecould not use it. As things are in New Yorkone could not possibly wear it publicly,” she said in a statement in 1969.

The diamond actually sold in the auctionitself to Cartier, only then being bought –and named – for Elizabeth Taylor. RobertKenmore, then chairman of the board of the jewellery firm, placed the winning bid of$1,050,000, to scenes of understandablygreat excitement in the auction room. To putthis figure into its proper context, the highestprice previously paid for a diamond was$305,000 for what was known as theRovensky diamond, which was set into anecklace and weight around 46.50 carats.

The stone was duly named ‘the Cartier’,but the story didn’t end there: eventualbuyer Richard Burton, who had underbid at the auction itself, approached Cartier and made them a (presumably rather good)offer for the stone. Cartier were happy, in anycase; as Kenmore splendidly enigmaticallyput it to the press, “We’re happy that MissTaylor is happy”.

The Taylor Burton diamond initially wenton display at Cartier’s store in New York,where it was viewed by more than 6,000people a day. Fascinated by the staggeringprice tag of the stone, they queued roundthe block.

Taylor herself did not actually get to showoff the Taylor Burton diamond publicly untila month after the auction, when she wore it to the then Princess Grace’s 40th birthdayparty in Monaco (as you do). Quite what theother guests made of the diamond flashing

at them over the dinner table is not known:presumably it must have been something ofa talking point!

Eventually, Elizabeth Taylor sold the diamondin 1978, two years after her divorce fromRichard Burton. She used the proceeds,admirably enough, to build a hospital inAfrica, while the stone itself was later recut.

Hollywood romanceLike much of her jewellery, this showstoppingpiece was bought for Taylor by the best-known of her husbands: the Welsh actor,drinker and all-round charmer Richard Burton.The size of this particular diamond and itsvalue, coupled with the tempestuous natureof the pair’s relationship (they famouslymarried twice, divorcing one another in1974 only to walk down the aisle a secondtime the following year), helped to seal the legend of the Taylor-Burton marriage inthe public imagination. For many people –not least of them, Elizabeth Taylor herself –this was a relationship that was truly thereal-life epitome of the kind of tragic, passionate and enduring love affairs theydepicted together on screen.

For those young ’uns whose knowledgeof mid-twentieth century film stars is necessarily shakier than my own, a briefbiography: Elizabeth Taylor and RichardBurton met in 1960, when they were filming the hugely expensive epic,Cleopatra. Taylor – then the highest paidactress in Hollywood – played the leadingrole, while Burton was her love interest,Marc Anthony. With both married to other

people, their affair was followed avidly in thepress, and though they both later divorcedtheir spouses and married one another, thingsnever settled into domestic bliss for thecouple. The marriages that followed (onelasting a decade, from 1964 to 1974, thesecond taking place the following year andlasting a mere matter of months) could best be described as ‘stormy’. Both were bigcharacters and heavy drinkers, touched withclassic thespian egomanaical tendencies.The pair lived a thoroughly glamorous existence (think mansions, parties and privateplanes) but apparently fought like cat and dogmuch of the time. Still, despite – or perhapsbecause of – the tempestousness of thecouple’s relationship, theirs is regarded asone of the most thrilling romances ofHollywood’s great age and their exploits andgrand (often diamond-shaped) romanticgestures were chronicled faithfully in thetabloids of the day.

Krupp DiamondThe Taylor-Burton diamond was not, though,the first significant piece of jewellery thatBurton bought for his wife. He started off a little more (ahem) modestly with the33.19-carat Asscher-cut Krupp diamond,which he bought in 1968. It had belongedto Vera Krupp, wife of the steel magnateAlfred Krupp. After it was bought for her,Taylor had the stone set in a ring, which shehas worn for countless public appearancessince, both as herself in television interviewsand live appearances and, perhaps a littlemore bizarrely, in character on film. So often is Taylor seen wearing the Krupp ring,that it was even animated on screen when the actress turned up for a cameo onThe Simpsons.

Still owned by Taylor today, the Krupp diamond cost Burton $305,000 when hebought it at auction, at Sotheby’s, in May1968. Taylor describes the ring as her “veryfavourite” piece of jewellery.

La Peregrina PearlLa Peregrina Pearl too was a gift fromRichard Burton, and to me – despite thesize and value of her other diamonds andjewellery pieces – it is by far the most interesting piece in Taylor’s collection,thanks to its extraordinary provenance.

The pearl, which was bought by Burton asa Valentine’s Day present in 1969, is a largepear-shape white pearl, one of the mostfamous pearls in the world. It was originallydiscovered in 1513, weighing 223.8 grains,off the Pearl Islands in the Gulf of Panama.

The pearl, which translates in Spanish as‘the Pilgrim’ or ‘the Wanderer’, became partof the Spanish Crown Jewels in the first halfof the sixteenth century, after which it wasgiven as a gift to England’s Queen Mary byPhillip II just before their wedding in 1554.The pearl returned to Spain after Mary’sdeath in 1558, and stayed there for 250years, being worn by various Spanish queenconsorts. In the nineteenth century, thepearl’s story picks up again. In 1808,Napoleon Bonaparte captured Spain,installing his brother Joseph on the throne.However, the French forces were soon over-thrown at the Battle of Vitoria, and a defeatedJoseph is said to have fled Madrid carryingthe pearl with him. It was at this point thatthe pearl got its name.

La Peregrina was passed to Joseph’snephew Charles Louis Napoleon, who soldit to the Marques of Abercorn while in exile in London. With the Abercorns itremained until passing back into the handsof royalty in 1969 – this time of theHollywood variety.

The ‘Taj Mahal’ diamond Yet another gift from Burton, this was a largeheart-shaped stone, with an Arabic inscrip-tion written on each side of it. Taylor has thestone set into a gold necklace, with rubiesand diamonds surrounding it. As far as legendwould have it, Burton said of this piece, “I would have liked to buy her the Taj Mahal,but it would cost too much to transport”.

Burton’s enthusiasm for diamond buyingis in itself of interest to a contemporaryobserver; in this modern age of female self-purchasing, it seems unusual to most ofus that a man would spend the sort of

money that Burton did in lavishing ElizabethTaylor with extraordinary gems. But it seemsthat there was some canny thinking goingon behind the romance: at one time thehighest paid actor in the world, Burton clearlysaw these gems as investments as much aspretty presents. “Diamonds are an investment.When people no longer want to see Liz andI on the screen, then we can sell off a fewbaubles,” he is quoted as saying.

Elizabeth Taylor todayMuch of what we know about ElizabethTaylor’s jewellery collection – the storiesbehind the stones, if you like – comes fromTaylor herself, from the pages of her 2002book, My Love Affair with Jewelry. In it, shegives a full profile of each of the pieces inher collection, and explains how she cameto own them. “I knew that I wanted to giveothers a glimpse of the thrills and pure happiness that these beautiful creations have

| Antique Jewellery


Fellows (Est. 1876) Forthcoming Auctions

• Secondhand Jewellery & Watches –Thursday 6th January, Thursday 20th January, Thursday 3rd & 17th FebruaryThursday 10th & 24th March

• Antique & Modern Jewellery – Thursday 13th January, Thursday 3rd March• Silver, Plated Ware, Coins & Medals – Monday 7th March• Costume & Silver Jewellery & Novelties – Monday 7th March• Wrist & Pocket Watches – Monday 17th JanuaryA catalogue is available at www.fellows.co.uk or by post. Online bidding is available at www.the-saleroom.com/fellows

For further information please call Heather Bailey on 0121 212 2131.

Queen Mary wearing the Peregrina Pearl

The Taylor Burton diamond


Antique Jewellery |

given me,” she says. If nothing else, the book clearly shows Taylor to be an enthusiastic, knowledgable collector – she’s no passiverecipient of baubles, despite some of the more fabulously outlandishstatements she makes in the book. “I mean, how many youngwomen get a set of rubies just for doing something wholesome like swimming laps? Or win a diamond ring at Ping-Pong with theirhusband…? Well, I did, and for all of these memories and the people in my life I feel blessed.”

Indeed. Having spent a lifetime wearing some of the world’s best known

pieces of jewellery, it seemed perhaps only right that Taylor put hername to a collection of her own. In 2007, her brand House of TaylorJewelry was born. The company sells fine jewellery, including diamonds, watches and coloured stones under the House of Taylor,Elizabeth and Kathy Ireland Jewelry brands.

For Taylor herself, the loveaffair with the jewellery worldgoes on. The former actress(who, these days, makesfew public appearances dueto her advancing age andpoor health) recently held ajewellery auction, comprisedof donated pieces, that raisedhundreds of thousands forher AIDS charity. Among thepieces that she put up forauction was, rather poignantlyreally, her engagement ringfrom Richard Burton. Ever thedramatic actress, Taylor onlyremoved the ring from her

finger when she was stood in front of the sale crowd. “Please knowthat it is not easy for me to give this away,” she said.

Garish? Me?What makes Elizabeth Taylor such an interesting study as a jewellerywearer is, in my opinion, the way in which she manages – somehow– not to look foolish while wearing the pieces she owns. This is nosmall feat: we’re talking about a woman, let’s not forget, who hasthe kind of self-confidence it takes to wear a $1m diamond to aPrincess’s birthday party.

Elizabeth Taylor loves 30 carat stones, she owns 30 carat stones,and by god, she’s going to wear them. And this flies in the face, does it not, of what we think we know about wearing jewellery well?We are taught that understated is elegant, that less is more. Andfrankly, there’s a reason for this particular adage: big bling is something that is very difficult to carry off… and still look good. On most people, a 33 carat diamond ring would seem preposterous;on Elizabeth Taylor it seems entirely appropriate because to her –you can see it in her eyes in every photograph – it absolutely isappropriate. Put simply, there’s a certain panache that comes withhaving Elizabeth Taylor’s sort of accessorising gall that means shedoesn’t look ludicrous wearing huge stones, when the rest of us nodoubt would.

And that, you see, is Hollywood.


L A T E S T N E W S F R O M T H E E D U C A T I O N D E P A R T M E N T

2010 has been yet another prosperousyear for the NAG's education department.

Sixty-five years in the running, and we arestill offering first class education and trainingto all our members. From the young novice,to the business leader, no-one is overlookedwith our new and updated trainingprogrammes. “We’ve seen the introductionand restructuring of our educationprogrammes, another two rounds ofexcellent exam results, and the celebrationof sixty-five years of exceptional training,”says education manager, Victoria Wingate.“We’ve continued our commitment tooffering seminars, workshops and eventsthroughout the year. I’m so proud that theNAG celebrated 65 years of exam success.

It is quite an achievement and proves justhow far the we have come – we’re stillgoing strong and are looking to do the samefor another 65 years!” she adds.

Our year commenced in A* form, withthe extremely positive results of our studentsurvey. An incredible one-hundred percentof students responded that they would saythe JET 1 and JET 2 courses were good orexcellent, with many using words such as“fantastic”, “great” and “a joy”. All said theywere especially pleased with the tuition theyreceived, and would definitely recommendboth courses to a colleague. The surveyconfirmed our belief that it’s the tutorsthemselves that make a real difference tothe learning experiences. ThroughoutJanuary we announced a number oftutorials and workshops for JET 1 and 2students, before heating up the FebruarySpring Fair in Birmingham, with a summerholiday theme.

March saw one of our most prestigiousevents: the annual Presentation of

Awards ceremony. At this gold platedoccasion, all JET graduates are invited tocollect their diplomas – with exceptionallyhigh achievers receiving special accoladesfor their hard work. Each year the studentwith the highest aggregate marks in theProfessional Jewellers’ Diploma, wins thecoveted Greenough Trophy, which, this year,was presented to Claudia Sarti of LaingInternational, Glasgow. The Gemstone Award,for the highest aggregate marks in theProfessional Jewellers’ Gemstone Diplomawas presented to Steven Pyke of Pyke & Sons,Birkenhead. Over 90 students attended with

friends and relatives, to receive their awards.“The Presentation of Awards Ceremony isdefinitely one of the highlights of 2010,”explains Wingate. “Seeing graduates collectingtheir diplomas after their hard work anddedication is wonderful. It’s a great eveningof celebration with lots of proud, supportivefamily members looking on. It’s a superb eventfor the industry and proves that educationmust be at the forefront for success”.

This success continued into April, with theinitial announcements of our new trainingprogram appearing on the horizon; whilechanges to our valuation diploma werediscussed. The end of April saw the diamondgrading seminar, provided by our friends atDiamond Group Services, who lead twospectacular and informative, two-dayseminars, in the Belgian capital, Antwerp.

NAG Viva La 2010A year in the life of Education and Training

“An incredible one-hundredpercent of students respondedthat they would say the JET 1and JET 2 courses were goodor excellent”

Claudia Sarti wonthe Greenough

Trophy

Celebrating 65 years of NAG education


Spring crept up on us, as May saw theannouncement of the upcoming

Executive Development Forum (EDF)conferences and nervous students wereushered into halls for the ProfessionalJewellers exams. Then June the educationdepartment was busy behind the scenesputting together a new managementfocused course, as well as a new way forstudents to study the flagship JET 1 & JET 2programs. We also focused on the annualcongress for the EDF which was held at theSaïd Business Centre which forms part ofOxford University’s business and economicsdepartment. The congress invites executivesof our member organisations to gettogether to discuss solutions to industry-wide problems. Headed by Mike McGraw of Development Initiatives, the EDF allowsbusiness leaders to meet in groupworkshops, to work through any issues theymay all be experiencing, and come up withan applicable model they may be able touse to solve these issues.

As the summer rolled around, weprepared ourselves for September’sInternational Jewellery London (IJL). Wealways have a presence at the show,however, this year was different, as the eventsaw the launch of two new NAG trainingproducts, and the celebration of sixty-fiveyears of continued commitment to trainingin the industry. Firstly we launched our new

online training facility, which allows studentsto study our flagship JET 1 and JET 2 in ourpaper-free learning environment. A day later,we launched our new modular distancelearning program, JET Pro. The new JETcourse allows more senior members of staffto take a number of modules to plug in gapsin their skills. It was a very proud momentfor the NAG. “The two IJL launches provethat we continue to move forward," saysWingate. NAG education is evolving just asthe trade is, and we will always look toprovide the very best in trade education. Wereflected on sixty-five years of education butalso showed how we continue to evolve”.

Towards the end of the year, the 22ndannual Loughborough IRV conference tookplace and saw another round of workshopsand seminars geared towards raising theprofile of valuers within the industry. With notime to rest, CEO Michael Hoare give apresentation at the Theft & Serious CrimeSymposium in October, outlining thetriumphs of the NAG and T.H March’sSaferGems initiative; before attending thelast Meeting for the Members of the Council,on the 12th of the month. Both eventsfocused on security and safety in thejewellery industry, as well as engagingmembers in discussion about the highs andlows of the past three-quarters of the year.

Our busy year is still littered with eventsthat will, no doubt, be reported in upcoming

issues of The Jeweller in 2011. However,the education department would like tothank all students and tutors for making thisone another excellent year. With our newtraining package and online learningenvironment live as of January 2011, welook forward to another challenging andexciting year ahead of us.

For more information on the work of theeducation department, workshops, seminars,the new courses or any of the events above,please get in touch on 020 7613 4445.Alternatively, you can e-mail the educationdepartment at: [email protected]

Education + Training |

Our summer holiday-themeddisplay at The Spring Fair

| Legal Jeweller


It is difficult, in particular for emerging andenterprising new businesses, to commit to

long leases of commercial premises withoutthe help of a crystal ball. What if plans for growth prove to be over ambitious?What if import costs (in particular the cost ofgold) increase further, knocking thousandsoff the bottom line? Given these kinds of considerations, in today’s competitive market, there is an increasing demand forshort flexible leases which give the tenant a right to end the lease early.

It is therefore vital that tenants are able to exercise breaks where they exist. Theopportunities to make mistakes when drafting or serving a break notice is on theincrease. Many tenants are caught out byserving break clauses incorrectly or by failingto comply with strict conditions set out in

their lease. In particular, recent case lawhighlights the importance of ensuringabsolute compliance where the conditionsor procedure to exercise the break are prescribed in the lease. Some solicitors arealso getting this wrong on a regular basis,increasing the number of negligence actions year on year!

If you are an occupier of commercialpremises (retail, warehouse, offices or otherwise) and are intending to exerciseyour break clause, we would suggest the following useful tips:1. Your advisors must draft the break

notice correctly. Although certain minormistakes can be excused, more often

than not a mistake in relation to prescribed information or detail willrender the break noticevoid. For example, do notguess the identity of yourlandlord but check the registered proprietor at theLand Registry and checkthat there has been nosubsequent change of name at Companies House.

2. Ensure that the notice is served correctly– the lease will often prescribe themethod of service and any minor mistake may invalidate the notice. For example, if the lease states that the notice needs to be served by handat the registered office, then it will be

invalid if served by first class post! A court found a notice served on bluepaper to be void because the leasesaid it should be served on pink paper!

3. Ensure that any conditions are met –perhaps the most striking case, demon-strating how strict the courts can be,was where a right to break was madesubject to the tenant complying with itscovenants, including the obligation toredecorate. Although the tenant redec-orated the premises the court held thatthe redecoration was insufficient becausethe lease specified that the premisesshould be decorated with three coats ofpaint and the tenant had used only two!

4. Seek legal advice well in advance ofthe notice period set out in the breakclause giving your solicitors sufficienttime to properly address all of theabove issues and eradicate mistakes.

Clearly during lease negotiations it isimportant for both landlords and tenants toaddress the subject of break clauses early toeradicate future problems as far as possible.

But what if your requirements havechanged and the break date is a few yearsaway? Don’t panic because you may beable to renegotiate better terms with yourlandlord early, in return for giving up yourright to break. For example, this couldinclude securing a further rent-free period orextending the length of the lease but at alower rent that is more manageable.Landlords are often happy to discuss thesepossibilities because of the risk of incurringa rental void if the tenant subsequentlyexercises the break clause later on.

We have found that landlords may renegotiate terms even where there is nobreak clause so it is always sensible to discussany such possibilities with your professionaladvisors – don’t suffer in silence!

Nick Carter, Partner and Head of PropertyBoyes Turner Solicitorswww.boyesturner.com

Recent case law highlights the importance of ensuringabsolute compliance where the conditions or procedure to exercise the break are prescribed in the lease.

Have you reachedbreaking point?Feeling trapped by your commercial lease? Having a right to terminate early can be paramount to a business’s success – but tenants need to be wary!


Current

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who is increasingly becoming disenchanted

with the tiresome obstacles, excuses, forced purchasing

and poor continuity of stock.

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If you have surplus new Pandora stock you wish to move

discreetly through your business then give me a call.

Silver Bracelets (590702) £27 Silver Necklets (590702) £45 Leather Bracelets £14 Silver Charms £10 Murano Glass £12

Wood £12 Silver clips £11 etc, etc.

Payment to be made by return

Contact Keith Peters - Managing Director

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15, Sanderson Arcade, Morpeth, Northumberland,

NE61 1NS

Tel - O1670 518000 or Email: [email protected]

in strictest confidence.

www.thejewellersguild.co.uk


The Gem-A’s 2010 Conference took placeat the Hilton London Kensington hotel

on Sunday 7th November and the Institutewas delighted to be invited to attend for thefirst time to promote itself and its membersand fellows to the 130 plus Conferenceparticipants. This is truly an internationalevent attracting delegates from as far afieldas Canada, the USA and Sir Lanka, as wellas many European countries and all parts of the UK. Institute chairman JonathanLambert attended with me, in what turnedout to be an highly informative, entertainingand enjoyable day.

Dr Jack Ogden, the Gem-A’s chiefexecutive opened the Conference and wassupported during the day by James Riley,chairman of the Gem-A’s Board andProfessor Andrew Rankin, the Gem-A’spresident. Prior to the start of theConference participants were able topurchase instruments and books fromGemmological Instruments Ltd and viewdisplays of organic gemstones, glass filledrubies and fossilised opals, as well as learnfrom Alan Hodgkinson how to use his visual optic techniques. In addition to the

Institute, the Scottish GemmologicalAssociation, The GemGuide and the Gem-A’s educational, laboratory and membershipwere also present.

The first guest speaker was Andrew Codyfrom Cody Opals (Australia) Pty Ltd,Melbourne, Australia who gave an illustratedpresentation on the origins of opal (duringthe Cretaceous period) and included the

natural history, geology and gemmology ofthis beautiful gemstone. Cody is particularlysmitten by opalised fossils and had animpressive selection on display fordelegates to see – including a fossiliseddinosaur poo – cue for a ripple of laughteramong the audience.

Unfortunately, the next scheduled guestspeaker, Gioia de Simone was unable toattend due to family commitments but thepopular and entertaining Rui Galopim deCarvalho from Portugal came to the Gem-A’srescue and presented an illustrated talk onPortugal’s breathtaking historical jewelsincluding many beautiful religious artefactswhich are on display in a number of thecountry’s museums.

Next on the podium was Christopher PSmith from the American GemologicalLaboratories in New York, who gave apresentation on rubies – taking a look at theincreasing quantities of treated stones

NAG Institute of Registered Valuers R E V I E W

Gemmology and the Gem MarketIRV co-ordinator Sandra Page reports on Gem-A’s action andinformation-packed one-day conference.

Testing visual optics with Alan Hodkinson, president of the Scottish Gemmological Association


IRV Review |

coming onto the market, many of which hereferred to as composites as they contain somuch glass. He showed delegates what tolook for to help identify these stones butalso warned that some treatments are verysophisticated and need the use of advancedapparatus. This is a major concern for many delegates at the Conference –including a number of the Institute’smembers and fellows.

Following lunch Michael Hügi of the SwissGemmological Society in Bern entertaineddelegates with an illustrated presentationwhich revealed the hidden beauty ofinclusions in gemstones using the latestdigital photomicrography.

The fifth speaker for the day, Dr MichaelKrzemnicki from the SSEF SwissGemmological Institute in Basel, reported on the variety of gemstones which havepassed through its laboratory in the lastyear. He paid particular attention to culturedpearls, illustrating the lengths some farmersare going to to bring to the market placepearls which are not what they appear tobe. He also caused many a gasp among the audience when describing the size of some of the gemstones he had beenprivileged to handle.

Maggie Campbell Pedersen’s presentationwas on amber, copal and somequestionable ‘green stuff’ which sheassured delegates was not Kryptonite! Shespoke of her purchases from the likes ofeBay and shared her testing methods withdelegates – the use of a hammer not being

one that she would recommend for mostgemstones! She shared her knowledge ofthe beauty of amber with the audience andreported on the various ways used today toalter the appearance of resins to producegreen material.

The last speaker for the day was RichardDrucker of Gemworld International Inc ofIllinois, who touched on a subject very dearto valuers’ hearts: the prices of gemstones.He took a historical look at the price ofgems, such as emerald, tying the rise andfall (and vice versa) in prices to worldevents, political intervention, changingdemand and, of course, such issues astreatments.

As a non-gemmologist I was concernedthat the day would be very scientific but I was amazed by the variation in thepresentations and surprised just how relevantthe majority of it was to the Institute ofRegistered Valuers. Fortunately theConference is open to non-members of theGem-A so I highly recommend this event toall IRVs and suggests they keep an eye outfor the announcement of the date of the2011 Conference.

After the Conference a number ofdelegates stayed on to join in the Gem-ADinner and Disco. After the meal Dr Ogdeninformed guests that this was the lastConference for Mary Burland, the Gem-A’sdirector of publications and organiser of the Conference, as she is retiring at the endof the year after 46 years with the Association(part of which included working with theNAG before the two bodies split in 1990).

Representatives of the Scottish GemmologicalAssociation (MIRV Gillian O’Brien and Brian Jackson) presented Burland with ahandmade silver brooch set with smokyquartz and on behalf of the American Gem Trade Association Richard Druckerpresented her with an invitation to attendtheir Gala Dinner in Tucson next February.In conjunction with this invitation, the Gem-A presented her with flights and hotelaccommodation for a week at the 2011Tucson Gem Show, an event she has alwayslonged to attend.

In addition to the one-day Conference theGem-A also arranged a number of seminarsand tours before and after the Conference.

On Saturday Ted Themelis ran a one-dayseminar on the latest heat-treatment of ruby and sapphire; on Monday FIRV JohnBenjamin held a one-day seminar onjewellery design, taking participants on athousand year tour of the evolution ofinternational jewellery design. Tuesdayoffered a half-day workshop onphotomicrography with Conference guestspeaker Michael Hügi; a private viewing ofthe Crown Jewels at the Tower of Londonand an evening presentation on the MagicWorld of Diamonds with Marijan Dundek,author of the best-selling guide Diamonds.

Monday night also saw the Association’sGraduation Ceremony and Presentation ofAwards at Goldsmiths’ Hall. We offer ourcongratulations to FIRV Shirley Mitchell andMIRV Jacqueline Sanders who bothreceived their Diamond Grading Diplomasat the ceremony.

Mary Burland, who is retiring from Gem-A,with Richard Drucker.

Delegates at the conference

Rui Galopim de Carvalho

| Regular


BooksPaul Flato Jeweler to the Stars(£45.00, ACC Publishing Group)It’s possible that you have never heard ofhim, but in fact Paul Flato might be describedas Hollywood’s first celebrity jeweller. Even the briefestskim throughthis gorgeouslyillustrated bookwill tell you thatthese were jew-els to get a per-son (such asGreta Garbo and Katherine Hepburn)noticed. Of German origins and born inTexas, he became apprenticed to a NewYork jeweller in 1921, then started his own

business two years later. At the height of hiscareer he was more famous than Tiffany orHarry Winston.

Now: Jewels by Norman Weber(£25.00, Arnoldsche)The work of German jewellery artist NormanWeber – about as uncompromising as youcan get in termsof attitude andapproach – isexplored for thefirst time in thisbook, whose illus-trations match hislove of the surrealand the sensual.All classic notions

of jewellery are turned on their head by thecreator who works with materials as diverseas silver-gilt and gold and plastic, lacquerand digital print. The book accompanies anexhibition to be held in Brescia and Munichearly next year.

Art Meets Jewellery: 20 years of GalerieSlavik, Vienna (£35.00, Arnoldsche)This book marks the 20th anniversary ofRenate Slavik’s international contemporaryjewellery-art gallery in Vienna. The learnedantique dealeris renownedfor bringingtogether themost diverseand excitinggroup of tal-ents – somees tab l i shed ,some up-and-coming –working withthe most diverse range of materials, frompaper, plastic and sheet metal to the more‘noble’ gold, pearls and diamonds.

Sales & ExhibitionsDecemberNow until 8th Jan 2011, Dazzle, National Theatre foyer, LondonRecent graduates will be among the 80+contemporary jewellery designers exhibiting atthis fair which has been running since 1981.www.dazzle-exhibitions.com

21st Nov-8th Jan 2011, Dazzle,Manchester Town Hall

A record number of new designers will beexhibiting at this show, which will be openseven days a week.www.dazzle-exhibitions.com

January13th-6th Feb: Future Map 10, Kentish Town, London NW5An exhibition of graduating artists – includingjewellery designers – from the six colleges ofthe University of the Arts London. www.arts.ac.uk/futuremap/

14th Jan-27th Feb: Alchemists, New Brewery Arts, CirencesterAn exhibition showing the work of around26 contemporary jewellery artists who workwith precious as well as unusual materials www.newbreweryarts.org.uk

31st Jan-26th Feb: Jacqueline Mina:Dialogues in Gold, Goldsmiths’ Hall, LondonArtist-goldsmith Mina will show her original,fused and textural jewlllery in this exhibitionthat will focus on the highlights of 30 yearsof her studio work. Her free and innovativeapproach to precious materials can be seen

in the pieces on loan from public and private collections.www.thegoldsmiths.co.uk

Jewellery & Watch Trade FairsJanuary23rd-26th: Scotland’s Trade Fairs, ScottishExhibition Centre, GlasgowDesign-led as well as volume gift collectionsfrom around 500 companies showing fashion, accessories, china and glass as wellas jewellery from both new designers andestablished names like Sheila Fleet.www.scotlandstradefairs.co.uk

NotebookWhere to go, what to read, what to see…

Jewellery by Melissa James on show at Scotland’s Trade Fairs

A piece by Jacqueline Mina at Dialogues in Gold

R E C R U I T M E N T

Are you looking to recruit staff for retail, manufacturing,design, sales, jobbing, management, admin and finance?

Advertise your jewellery and watch vacancies in The Jewellermagazine Appointments section and on the JewellerRecruitment online site (www.jeweller-recruitment.co.uk)simultaneously at very competitive rates.

Call Ian Francis on tel: 020 7833 5500 or email him at:[email protected] to book your recruitment advertising in The Jeweller magazine.

APPOINTMENTST H E J E W E L L E R

We are a family run jewellers established 47 years ago, currently

with four shops located in Cheshire. We are looking for a

full-time Mobile Manager to relieve the Partners and

existing Managers as required.

In addition we have a vacancy for a full time Sales Consultant.

The successful applicant will have a proven track record

of retail jewellery experience. Own transport is essential.

Salary will be commensurate with experience and ability.

Please send your letter of application including your C.V. to:

Mr Michael Jones

PR Jones Watchmaker & Jeweller

11 Chestergate, Macclesfield

Cheshire SK11 6BX

We are an established independent jewellerand have an extensive workshop on ourpremises with three goldsmiths handlingcustomer’s repairs and commissions.

We are looking for a sales consultantto join our rapidly expanding business.

The successful applicant will have previousexperience and a good knowledge of diamonds and other precious stones.

Salary dependent on experience and ability.

Applications: If you are interested in joining us pleasesend your CV to: Mr Matthew Dunn, Woods Jewellers, 5-7 Chipstead Valley Road,Coulsdon, Surrey CR5 2RBor e-mail it to: [email protected]

Jewellery Project Lead Instructor£14,497-£16,390 p.a. inclusive30 hours per week, 5 days over a 7 day period

Much Hadham, near Bishop’s Stortford

St. Elizabeth’s is looking to appoint a Lead Instructor, delivering programmes to people with learning disabilities enabling them to createjewellery for exhibition and sale. You will also support clients in theirday to day activities including personal care, ensuring a therapeuticbenefit for the individual. This is an exciting and unique opportunityto bring your talents, skills and enthusiasm to this Social Enterprise.

Closing Date: 23rd December 2010 • Interviews: 7th January 2011For an informal discussion please telephone Yvonne Smith, Senior Lead,on 01279 843451, ext 244.

We offer a competitive employment package including a flexible shiftpattern, commitment to staff development, supportive managementand staff benefits, an optional contributory pension scheme, childcarevoucher scheme, subsidised transport from Harlow and Bishops Stortfordand a range of staff discounts for high street, leisure and gym.

Download an application pack from www.stelizabeths.org.uk for further details. Alternatively e-mail: [email protected] contact reception on 01279 843451.

St Elizabeth’s Centre is committed to safeguarding and promoting the welfare of children, vulnerable adults and young people. The successful applicant(s) will be required to undertakean enhanced criminal records check. We are an equal opportunities employer welcomingapplications from all sections of the community. Registered Charity 1068661

Amber Jewellery

Diamond Dealer

VILLAMARTS LTDThe UK’s Leading Loose Diamond & Jewellery Wholesaler

We offer a complete and efficient service for all yourwholesale diamond needs at the best prices.

Visit www.villamarts.co.uk to find our daily updatedstock list of certificated diamonds.

For a quick quote or to arrange a meeting call:

020 7417 0260 / 026132-34 Greville Street, London EC1N 8TB

Diamond Dealer

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T H E J E W E L L E R C L A S S I F I E D

Computer Systems

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Diamond SettersDiamond Jewellery

Chain Manufacturers

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Jewellery Studiofor sale in the heart of

Western Australia’s southwest. • Shows consistently strong growth every

year since being established in 2002. • Stock consists of a high quality handmade

range supplemented with selected suppliers.• Would suit manufacturing jeweller,

husband/wife team.• Well positioned, lucrative business. • Owners looking to semi-retire.• Further information on enquiry.

Contact Mary: [email protected]

bqwrolex specialist

www.bqwatches.com

Call now for a FREE Quotation

020 8731 2563

We now specialise in the repair andrefurbishment of Gold Rolex Watch Bracelets

Is your Rolex watchbracelet stretchedand worn?

At BQ Watches wecan make it look

brand NEW

Repair Services Shopfitting

DISPLAY CABINETT H E J E W E L L E R C L A S S I F I E D

Titanium Jewellery

Pearl Restringing

Repairs

A-Line Jewellery• Handmade jewellery• All setting including channel, pavé etc.• Repairs of all kinds• Polishing, rhodium and black rhodium• 18 carat and platinum ring mounts• CAD and laser work undertaken• Diamonds and coloured stones supplied• Over 30 years experience• Postal service

Ground Floor, 22 Hatton Garden,London EC1N 8BATel: 020 7405 7684

Email: [email protected]

Jewellery Repairs

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T H E J E W E L L E R

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Only £85 per insertion!Call Neil Oakford on 020 7833 500 or

email: [email protected] for furtherinformation and to make a booking in

the Jeweller display Cabinet

Platinum

Jewellery Manufacturers

AGARS (est. 1946)

• The complete restringing service to the trade for over 60 years.

• Experience, quality and service at reasonable prices.

• Full insurance. All urgent repairsby return.

Call David or Stephen at Agars LtdPort Hall Mews, Dyke Road, Brighton BN1 5PBTel/fax: 01273 540330Email: [email protected] Member of the British

Jewellers’ Association

Precious Stones, Beads and Pearls

Signage

Golfing Holiday Let

La Sella Resort – Denia SpainEnjoy a fantastic holiday on the Costa Blanca

Golf • Tennis • Horse Riding • SpaModern 3 bedroom townhouse for hire throughout the year on the splendid 'La Sella Golf' complex, close to the coastal towns of Denia and Javea.For more details visit www.golf-lasella.co.uk

or call Toni Steele 07534 892124

| Regular


How would you describe your personal style?I like to feel that I am approachable and fairminded enough to hear both sides of anargument. Having said that I do like tochallenge preconceptions and develop myown independent views.

Where is your favourite holiday destination? Why?I’m still busy finding out. Every time I gosomewhere new it becomes my favouritefor a while. I was in Rome last year andAthens this year, and enjoyed them both.

What three words describe you best…in your view Handsome, debonair, and humorous!… and according to others?Tall, receding, and angry! Clearly I have selfawareness ‘issues’!

Looking back at your career, what onething would you do differently if youhad your time over?When I graduated in the seventies, we weresuffering a depression and jobs were in shortsupply. To keep the wolf from the door, I tooka job in retail management. Ultimately thatexperience laid the foundations of what provedto be a stimulating and rewarding career.

However, if I had my time over maybe todayI’d be doing something in the visual arts.

If you could wave a magic wand andchange one thing about the jewelleryindustry, what would it be?I would banish conflict, exploitation, andenvironmental degradation; make supplychains completely transparent, and allproducts traceable; then we could settle the ethics debate.

Do you know the price of a pint of milk?Yes! Don’t forget, I used to run a supermarket.

To what do you attribute your success?There aren’t any magic formulas and luckinvariably plays its part in success, but theoft quoted and variously attributed saying,“the more I practice, the luckier I get”, prettymuch sums up my belief.

Tell us something not many peopleknow about you…I’m an atheist, but interested in religion.

Favourite shopping destination For sheer shopping immersion, you can’tbeat the Mall of America outside Minneapoliswith its 520 stores. Jewellery-wise it’s probablythe Royal Exchange, in the City of London.

If you hadn’t gone into the jewellerybusiness, what career would you have chosen?If I hadn’t fallen into trade associationmanagement I’d probably be a pennilesssculptor, which is what I trained for.

What would you like to find under theChristmas tree?If we are talking about reality not fantasy,then a copy of A History of the World in 100Objects, by Neil MacGregor, would be nice.

What's your favourite festive tipple?Last year I made a quantity of sloe gin. Theresults were pretty good so I have increasedmy production this year and I am lookingforward to tasting the results at Christmas!

Quick fire (no deliberating)• Football or cricket? (Team?) Not really

interested in either, but I follow the ups and downs of Oxford United.

• Diamonds or coloured stones?Coloured stones

• White or yellow metal? Yellow• Bentley or Roller? Neither. Not

interested! • Delegator or control freak? My NAG

colleagues had a mug printed for mewith ‘You’re not the messiah. You’re justa very naughty boy!’ Go figure!

• Beatles or Rolling Stones?Rolling Stones

Last WordThe

We think that The Last Word in the last issue of 2010 should really go to our very own CEO here at The Jeweller Towers – Michael Hoare.He managed to find time between all those committee meetings toreveal his hidden depths and qualities.

Personal ProfileMichael Hoare joined the NAG in October 2000, having previously held a seniorposition at British Shops and Stores Association. His career has been mostly retailfocused, and included spells in retail management and training consultancy before hejoined the Drapers Chamber of Trade, which later absorbed the National Associationof Retail Furnishers. He is currently the president of the Institute of AssociationManagement and a Freeman of the Goldsmiths’ Company.

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