The Jeweller Magazine

JewellerOctober 2011 £6.50 The Voice of The Industry

the

The Jeweller is produced in conjunction with the British Jewellers’ Association

The Diamond IssueSpotlight on the diamond market

Human rights impact � The issue of certification

Plus – tips to maximise your festive window display!

Jewellerthe

The Voice of the Industry 3

Contents |

Putting on the Glitz 24

Tips on creating the best seasonal window displays

and announcing our festive window competition

The Diamond Issue� Certificate Survey 28

The thorny subject of diamond certification

comes under NAG member scrutiny

� Diamonds and Human Rights 34

Jeweller and activist Greg Valerio looks at

how the Kimberley Process might regain

its lost credibility

� Saying it with Diamonds 48

From prices to choice cuts – Belinda Morris

puts the diamond market in the spotlight

Showstoppers 42

Mary Brittain reviews the highlights of last month’s

IJL, courtesy of BJA members

C O N T E N T S O C T 1 1

The National Association

of Goldsmiths

78a Luke Street,

London EC2A 4XG

Tel: 020 7613 4445

www.jewellers-online.org

Editor: Belinda Morris

Tel: 01692 538007

[email protected]

BJA Marketing & PR Manager:

Lindsey Straughton

[email protected]

Tel: 0121 237 1110

Sales Director: Ian FrancisTel: 020 7613 4445

Fax: 020 7729 0143

[email protected]

Classified Advertising: Neil [email protected]

Art Director: Ben [email protected]

Contributors:Mary Brittain, Henrik Dinesen,

John Henn, Miles Hoare,

Greg Valerio, Jo Young

The Jeweller is published by the National Association ofGoldsmiths for circulation to members. For more informationabout The Jeweller visit: www.thejewellermagazine.com

The magazine is printed on paper and board that has metacceptable environmental accreditation standards.

Although every effort is made to ensure that the information supplied is accurate, the NAG disclaims and/or does not accept liability for any loss, damage or claim whatsoever that may result from the information given. Information and ideas are forguidance only and members should always consult their own professional advisers.The NAG accepts no responsibility for any advertiser, advertisement or insert in TheJeweller. Anyone having dealings with any advertiser must rely on their own enquiries.

Communiqué 4

Editor’s Letter 7

Industry News 8

NAG News 14

Member of the Month 16

Education & Training 18

IRV Review 20

BJA News 23

Copenhagen Show Report 30

Security 32

Legal Jeweller 36

Brand Profile 38

Opinion: John Henn 40

Simon Says 45

BJA Christmas Sparkle 46

Antique Jewellery 60

Insurance Matters 64

Notebook 66

Display Cabinet 68

The Last Word 70

Cover ImageIn conjunction with

Corona Jewellery CompanyTel: 01299 832813

Email: [email protected]

JewellerThe Voice of The Industry www.thejewellermagazine.com

the

Modest but choppyAs I write these notes, some politicians and commentators are calling for modeststimulus spending to leaven the austerityloaf that most of the UK is chewing on. Of course, these proclamations could havemore to do with gaining visibility at the partyconferences than serious economic strategy,but there is no doubt that we could all dowith something to smile about. While thegovernment’s measures reassure the creditratings agencies that they mean what they say about reducing debt, they alsoheighten the feeling of gloom exacerbatedby the transition to autumn weather. As acommuter I have long since reached thatstate of negative equilibrium where it’s darkwhen I leave home in the morning and darkwhen I get home over thirteen hours later.

So, in preparation for a meeting with theBank of England recently, I thought I shouldfind out if my mood was reflected by business leaders, and whether it translatedinto business activity. My straw poll, conducted among a small cross section ofmembers big and small, couldn’t have beenclearer. The mood is flat, and expectationsof consumer spending are low. The newsisn’t all bad on employment with staff

numbers expected to remain static andaverage pay rises likely to be up to two percent; this is probably because the flexibilityof the retail workforce allowed members to act fast to reduce headcount when therecession first hit. But the pleasant surprisewas that jewellers don’t expect to reduceinvestment in the next six months.

Quite where they will find the funds is another matter! As was to become

evident at my meeting, some sectors like engineering and manufacturing areexperiencing reasonable demand; exportsto Europe and S. E. Asia are strong and UK high technology products are indemand. However, export credit guaranteesand help with trade export assistance isminimal; and the conclusion is that

banks are not interested in financing theexpansion of the UK economy.

According to the Bank of England theeconomy is experiencing a ’modest butchoppy’ recovery. But inflation is still a problem, fuelled by a big rise in oil andcommodity prices, and will not come back into line until the anniversaries of VAT,utility, and oil increases are passed at theend of 2012. Meanwhile the consequencesare that with average wage rises standing at 2.5 per cent and inflation at 4.5 per cent,consumer spending power continues todecline. That, of course, presupposes thatpeople remain in work. Most around thetable agreed that notwithstanding poor figures announced that day, unemploymenthad been lower than predicted, but maskeda deeper problem – the ‘underemployed’.Many, particularly the young, having settledfor part-time work as an alternative tounemployment, do not appear on the officialstatistics. Already under strain from inflationarypressures, just how long family budgets cansubsidise this remains to be seen.

As for the effect on business, it was illuminating to contrast our own sector –where inflation brought about by dramaticraw material price rises climbs upward –with the construction sector where demandis flat and labour rates haven’t increased for two years. It will take the finest minds of the ‘B of E’ to work out how to manage

M I C H A E L H O A R E ’ S

CommuniquéFrom economic doom and gloom to more cheerful and encouraging jewellery industry news – presenting the ‘stream of consciousness’jottings of a bewildered chief executive!

Most around the table agreed that notwithstanding poor figures announced that day, unemployment had been lower than predicted, but masked a deeper problem – the ‘underemployed’. Many, particularly the young, having settled for part-time work as an alternative to unemployment, do not appear on the official statistics.

| Comment

4 The Jeweller October 2011

an economy running at such dramatically different speeds. By thetime you read these notes, the Monetary Policy Committee will havespoken; will it be more ‘wait and see’ than ‘hurry up and wait’? Thenation holds its breath!

Safe, vibrant, optimisticThe economy aside, what most jewellers need, alongside somerelief from the current gloom, is a safe vibrant locality from which totrade… and well trained staff! Encouraging the latter has been theNAG’s stock in trade for over 65 years. This year our theme hasbeen ‘Grow Your Own’ in the sense that with a bit of nurturing youcan make your existing staff excel. We have also been getting ourcourses online; at the Loughborough Conference we announced thelaunch of CAT, the last element leading to a fully functioning valuationsqualification; but what to do about security and the shopping environment? At September’s brilliant IJL show we turned our attentionyet again to these very subjects; sponsoring workshops from Met

Police colleague Mark Beale, our SaferGems initiative, and lastlyfrom our new friends at Action for Market Towns. I have written andspoken many times about SaferGems – we were reminded again of itssuccesses at IJL – but only last week I was privileged to experiencethe security community’s reaction when we presented it for theircritical appraisal. I am delighted to say that the reaction was an almostuniversal thumbs up from people who know the value of intelligenceand the assistance it gives to an under-resourced police force.

With this morning’s newspaper headlines trumpeting the early onsetof store Christmas departments in a desperate attempt to set thetills ringing; the British Retail Consortium suggesting that working ina shop is better value than a university degree; and David Cameroninsisting that “the high street should be at the very heart of everycommunity”, everyone’s attention is back on retail and its role as aneconomic barometer. Mary Portas, hired by the government to leadan independent review into the UK’s troubled high street, has beenpromoting her report due out in November. It’s to identify what thegovernment, local authorities and businesses can do to promote thedevelopment of more ‘prosperous and diverse high streets’. Actionfor Market Towns (AMT), a national charity that has already done alot of the spade work on the vitality and viability of small towns,magnanimously welcomed the focus on town centres whenannounced, but I wonder what, apart from publicity, the ‘Queen of Shops’ can bring to the party that AMT hasn’t already thought of.I suspect that the answer doesn’t lie in dramatic gestures but local government and traders getting together to apply the principlesof ‘Grow Your Own’!

However, export credit guarantees and help with trade export assistance is minimal;and the conclusion is that banks are notinterested in financing the expansion of the UK economy.


Comment |


Comment |

This morning I drove through my local market town on the way to my office, to be greeted

by the unaccustomed sight of a policeman standing outside our one and only jewellers.

The metal security grid had been cut away and a widow was boarded up. How dreadful!

Not just for the retailer – whose stock tends towards the middle rather than the top end –

but also for the town. I’ve lived here for almost 20 years and it’s only in the last one or two

that such a crime has reared its ugly head.

It’s a salutary reminder that cosy rural idylls are probably a thing of the past – no-one is

immune. But we can still take actions to make changes – check Michael Hoare’s Security

report on page 32 for a reminder of how.

Rising insurance premiums are the last thing we need – there are enough price hikes

elsewhere to mess with margins. Take diamonds for instance... they’re all over the place.

But while price is obviously an influencing factor in how the market is faring, it isn’t the

only one. In my feature on the gems (page 48) those who specialise in diamond jewellery

wax lyrical about their enduring appeal (hang the cost!) and throw in a few trend tips and

selling hints.

Lest we forget though, not every diamond is as pure as it ought to be. Jeweller and tireless

activist Greg Valerio reminds us that the ethical problems have not magically disappeared –

despite best efforts by some many over the past few years. Resting on laurels and burying

heads in the sand are not options… discuss.

As most visitors and exhibitors (and the BJA’s show round-up on page 42) will confirm,

IJL last month offered its usual blend of sparkle, enlightenment and gossip. There was also

the heady frisson of danger to be had – if one attempted to cross the Boulevard without

first looking left and right, there was the very real danger of being trampled on by an

Amazonian model in stilettos, black lycra and diamond choker. What a way to go!

Page 48

Page 28

Editor’sLetter

This month:

“Retailers need to put a bit more oomph in sellingdiamonds than simplysaying that they sparkleand quoting the tired old‘4-Cs’ mantra.”

“We always inform customers that certificates are an opinion only, carrying no weight in law, and are purely the viewpointof the individual graderwho examined the stone”

If you would like to comment on any of the issues raised in this edition of The Jewelleror any other trade-related matters please email the editor at: [email protected]

| Industry News


As part of a milestone agreement reachedbetween the De Beers Group and the

Government of the Republic of Botswana,the De Beers Group will transfer its London-based rough diamond sales activity toBotswana. The 10-year contract will transform that country into one of theworld’s leading diamond trading and manufacturing hubs. The agreement is thelongest sales contract ever agreed betweenthe two partners.

Some De Beers operations will remain in Hatton Garden, which has hosted theauctions since the 19th century – marketing,human resources and administration – but it is thought that of the 370 or so members of staff at De Beers, around 100will have to move to Botswana or lose their jobs. De Beers’ new facility, which is already built, is near the airport atGaborone, Botswana’s capital. Sightholderswill also be looking at rather more complextravel arrangements in future – once directflights from major trading centres toGaborone have been introduced.

Nicky Oppenheimer, Chairman of DeBeers, commented, “With this agreement, DeBeers cements its commitment to being the

driving force behind Botswana’s emergenceas a world-leading diamond trading andmanufacturing centre. The transformationthat this agreement sets out is testament toour belief in the future of Botswana, and isa clear acknowledgment that De Beers’ success is only possible with a profoundunderstanding that the aspirations of ourpartners must be at the core of our business. I am proud of this moment andexcited by what we will build together.”

Mr Oppenheimer added that, as a resultof the agreement, “Botswana has preservedand enhanced a highly successful route tomarket, focused on maximising the value ofher natural resource, and De Beers has

secured long-term and uninterrupted accessto the largest supply of diamonds in theworld. This is a once in a generation opportunity for Botswana and De Beers toshape the future of the diamond industry,and we look forward to working with ourpartners to provide our Sightholders withthe continuity and quality of supply theyexpect while pushing beneficiation togreater levels than ever seen before.”

Commenting on the move, Harry Levy,president of the London Diamond Boursemakes the point that there have been “persistent rumours” that De Beers are“going to close their operations completelyand sell out”. He adds that as they have“their main African business in Botswana soit makes sense to move there until they dosell out.” Besides the fact that some in theLondon diamond trade will lose touch withsome good friends, he sees the impact onHatton Garden as minimal. “One thought iswhat will happen to their sight-holders who travelled 10 times a year to London? I don’t know how happy they will be to goto Botswana every five weeks. Perhaps theywill bring the sight boxes to the establishedcutting centres,” he adds.

Emap Connect, the organiser of JewelleryShow 2012, has announced that there

is to be a dedicated watch area – Time –within the show. Luxury watch distributorBQ Watches, traders of pre-owned premiumbrands such as Rolex, Cartier and Breitling,is the new watch partner for this event, whichwill take place from 5th - 9th February at theNEC Birmingham.

Other watch makers that have signed upto join Time include long-standing exhibitorat The Jewellery Show, Condor Group –owner of the Royal London, CannibalWatches and Time Co brands – along witha host of other market leading suppliers,many of which have never been seenbefore at the NEC or haven’t exhibited forseveral years.

1853 will bring Revue Thommen,Alessandro Baldieri, Torgoen Swiss andKennett to the show and visitors can alsolook forward to seeing Storm Watches, IsseyMiyake, Festina, Chic, George, IdentifyLondon, Oasis, Playboy and Puma Freefall,Henley, Wingmaster, Ravel, Tom Dexter,Oozoo, Louis Frey, Switch, Danish Designs,Time IT and Icon Watches.

Speaking of the launch of Time, eventdirector Julie Driscoll comments: “We arealways looking to enhance the offering forour customers. After several conversationswith numerous retailers and exhibitors itbecame clear that there was a need for awatch section within The Jewellery Show,and we saw an opportunity to create amore rounded offering for buyers.”

Assay Officeopens doors

The Birmingham Assay Office is openingits doors to the general public for one

day only on Tuesday 6th December. Usuallythese visits are available to organised groupsonly, so this is a unique opportunity to seethe spectacular Silver Collection, the Library,and to hear about the history of hallmarkingand The Birmingham Assay Office. Visitorswill be met with a warm welcome, includingcoffee and biscuits before the visit, andafterwards, in the Gift Shop, they will beable to buy gifts such as books and silveritems all made in Birmingham’s JewelleryQuarter and hallmarked at The BirminghamAssay Office. There are options of an 11amor a 2pm visit, with limited spaces, so earlybooking is advised. Call: 0871 871 6020 oremail: [email protected]

De Beers moves to Botswana

Nicky Oppenheimer, Chairman of De Beers andMr Kedikilwe, Botswana’s minister of minerals,Energy and Water Resources

Time at The Jewellery Show


Industry News |

New plans for LondonJewellery Week 2012Now in its fifth year, London Jewellery Week has announced plans and changes for the

2012 event. The showcase for jewellery brands and designer talent will be taking placea week later than previous years to incorporate the 2012 social and jewellery calendars andwill now run from Monday 11th June until Sunday 17th June 2012.

The Jewellery Show has been officially chosen as the 2012 trade partner of LJW and following this year’s one-day trade show, The Jewellery Show London will be a two-day tradeevent taking place on 12th and 13th June and held at Somerset House. The show will befollowed directly by the consumer show – and one of the cornerstone events of the week– Treasure. Some brands and jewellery designers will exhibit at both events and some suppliers will be trade only.

Another development for 2012 is the relocation of LJW to it’s new ‘home’ at SomersetHouse, on the Strand. The venue has played a huge part in the heritage of London and provides a heart for the various events that will take place in the City. ‘Treasure’ will take placeat Somerset House from 14th June until 17th June.

“We are proud to be invited to host the centrepiece of London Jewellery Week at SomersetHouse. Treasure has always been in inspirational venues since the first show in 2008 at the Tower of London, so this is the right move for London Jewellery Week and Treasure,”says Della Tinsley, director of LJW. The new venue will enable us to expand Essence, theEthical Jewellery pavilion further and create other specialist pavilions, alongside the exciting introduction of the trade days.

Winsor Bishop unveils store expansionOn 27th September, family-run independent

jeweller Winsor Bishop, which has been a partof the Norwich City landscape for 175, opened thedoors to its newly extended store. The ribbon wascut by managing director Sophie Fulford who tookover the reins from her father, Robert Croydeneight years ago. The restoration, which has taken ayear, involved buying the premises next door andknocking-through to create one large space – now

more than twice the size of the original shop. This has allowed for a series of boutiques forthe high-end watch brands that are exclusive to Winsor Bishop such as Patek Philippe,Panerei, Hublot and Breitling as well as Rolex, Tag Heuer and Omega.

The larger store will now appeal to a broader range of customers by introducing moreaffordable brands such as Missoma, Hoxton and Links of London.

More updates for RJC

The Responsible Jewellery Council has announced that FRED, the Paris-based jewelleryretailer has achieved certification, meeting the human rights, social and environmental

standards as established by the RJC’s Member Certification System. Other businesses thatachieved certification last month include Swiss watch manufacturer Baume et Mercier; Swisswatch and jewellery brand Piaget; Antwerp-based Star Diamond Group, Yaelstar and AMCNV; diamond cutting and polishing manufacturer Dalumi Europe and New York diamondmanufacturing company Lazare Kaplan.

S N I P P E T SNew touch screen watchlaunched by Swatch

Swiss fashion brandSwatch has introduced‘Touch’, a colourful lineof timepieces with big-screen LCD dialsand a touch-sensitivezone in place of pushbuttons. The screenwill give access to sixdigital functions –time, date, chrono, alarm, timer and beep – with a backlight to assure readabilityunder all conditions. The digital numeralsare set-off against a black background,while the plastic cases are colour-matchedto the silicone straps (RRP £100).

New attractions for Dubai show

Dubai International Jewellery Show (10th-13th November, 2011), which attractsaround 300 exhibitors from 30 countries,will feature a number of new attractions this year. These will include a jewellery fashion show; a special area for ‘luxury jewellery‘; the Dubai Jewellery Awards –with categories for both newcomer as wellas established designers and an ‘onlinesocial business matching service’.www.thejewelleryshow.com

Bentley and Skinner hostsAkelo show

Piccadilly jeweller Bentley & Skinner is tohost an exhibition to celebrate the 25thanniversary of Italian goldsmith and sculptorAndrea Cagnetti, known artistically as Akelowho creates jewellery and golden objects –all unique pieces. “Objects of such sublimequality appear only occasionally throughouthistory, when an artist demonstrates anability to meet the challenges of ancient

techniques,redevelopingthem how-ever in anoriginal way”,commentedMary Pixley,

curator of European and American art andarchaeology. Bentley & Skinner will host theexhibition from 2nd - 19th November.

| Industry News


S N I P P E T SFine jewellery for Boden

The hugely successful British fashion brandBoden has introduced its first collection offine jewellery in sterling silver. The line comprises charms, bracelets, necklace anda pendant and retail between £35 and£135. Previously the brand had limited its jewellery to accessory pieces in other, non-precious materials. The collection isavailable online only. www.boden.co.uk

Stephen Webster bridal line

Award-winning British jewellery designerStephen Webster is launching his first collection of engagement and weddingrings. Inspired by traditional styles but witha contemporary twist the rings are in 18ctwhite, yellow and rose gold and set withForever™ diamonds crafted by Dali Diamond.“For us, this is an important new step”, saysWebster. “At a moment that more and moreconsumers are questioning the origins and journey of the diamonds they buy, theForevermark™ diamonds used in our newcollection provide a major reassurance anda seal of quality.

Jewellery & Giftware Ball

This year’s Jewellery & Giftware Ball, held inaid of the British Jewellery Giftware &Finishing Federation Benevolent Society willtake place on 1st December at the ClarendonSuites in Birmingham. The NEC ChampagneCocktail reception will be followed by a four-course dinner then dancing to a rock’n’rollband. Tickets are £550+VAT for a table of ten or £59+VAT per person. For details contact Lynn Snead on 0121 744 1046

Call for creativeindustries actionAnew report from the the CBI says that the creative industries sector is expected to employ

1.3 million people by 2013, potentially making it larger than financial services. But, itwarns that in order for the sector to meet its potential, urgent action is needed to train peopleto the required skills levels.

“First and foremost we must ensure that all young people leave school with a strong graspof the basics. Solid maths and science ability is particularly vital,” says Susan Anderson, CBIdirector for education and skills. “These companies also expect a more detailed knowledgeof IT and benefit from people with broader creative skills, so the Government must adaptthe curriculum to meet these needs.”

“As well as getting the basics right at a school level, we want to see greater collaborationbetween universities and companies so that courses keep up-to-date with the realities andneeds of today’s creative industries market,” she added. “It’s also crucial that we continue todevelop the skills of the current workforce. Apprenticeships are an important way of achievingthis and the Government needs to press ahead with its plans to reduce bureaucracy andbreak down barriers to entry for smaller firms.”

Commenting on the CBI’s call, Michael Hoare, the NAG’s CEO says “The missing componentin most creative degrees is business awareness. I don’t think graduates are short of creativity,good ideas, or basic manual skills, what they lack is any understanding of business processes,and this is the key interface where universities and businesses should co-operate. Overrecent years the financial sector has been pretty good at giving students on sandwich courseswork experience that often ultimately ends up in a job offer. The creative industries shouldtake a leaf out of their book. Having said that, our new JET Pro course is ideal for graduateentrants into retail who need business skills. ”

Out of dirt... comes palladiumThe streets of London may not actually be paved with gold, but apparently, nestling

amongst the grime lie minute particles of palladium. Waste management company Veoliais to extract the precious metal from the tens of thousands of tons of dust recovered fromthe roads and pavements of Britain’s cities each year. If the scheme proves successful, thefirm plans to recycle other metals from the debris.

A new processing plant near Rugby will sift through 30,000 of road sweepings allowing 90per cent of the debris to be recycled. After filtering, shaking, spinning and sieving the resultingfine grey dust is treated with chemicals and passed through membranes to extract the palladium. Veolia estimates that it will extract 5kg of the metal annually, worth £80,000.

New face of Ortak

Actress Sarah Parish, star of TV shows such as Cutting Itand Mistresses has been unveiled as the new face of

Ortak jewellery for 2011/12 – taking over from CarolSmilie and her daughter. Sarah stars in the company’s newmarketing campaign which rolled out across its fifteen UKstores and online at www.ortak.co.uk last month. Ortak’steam of in-house designers, Clare T Goodall and LauraChristie, created the new collections, which include ‘AWalk in the Woods’, ‘Luna’, ‘Harvest’ and ‘Kooky’, using hotglass enamel and intricately crafted sterling silver.

| Industry News


Harriet Kelsall wins national awardHarriet Kelsall, founder and managing director of bespoke

jewellery design company Harriet Kelsall Jewellery has beennamed Woman of the Year 2011 at the Specsavers Everywomanin Retail Awards. It was the top prize of the glittering ceremonywhich was held at London’s Savoy hotel last month. Harriet hadbeen shortlisted in the Entrepreneur of the Year category but wenton to triumph over all of the other nominees to clinch the award.

The judges said that “Harriet’s vision, innovative approach andsuccess makes her an outstanding role model who will inspiremore women to choose a career in retail. The Woman of the YearAward recognises the woman who is a truly inspirational and visionary individual and HarrietKelsall is an exceptional role model for the industry”.

Kelsall started the business in 1998 from her spare bedroom and in just over 10 yearsshe now employs nearly 30 staff with an annual turnover of £1.5 million. Harriet said: “I amabsolutely amazed and thrilled to receive this award, it is a huge honour and to be recognised by the retail industry for our efforts and successes is very rewarding. I see this asan award for the whole team rather than being just about me. They are so brilliant and weall passionately drive the business forward together.”

PureJewels triumph at Lonmin AwardsDesigners supported by London-based jewellery retailer

PureJewels scooped four of the eight prestigious,platinum-based Lonmin Design Innovation Awards. Onshow on the Johnson Matthey stand at IJL were pieces by Anthony Roussel, Sarah Ho and Laura Strand (in the Emerging Designer category) and Anna Loucah in theEstablished Designer category. Other winners of the competition, created to promote platinum as well as raisethe design standards of contemporary jewellery, wereLeyla Abdollahi, Alexander Davis, Zoe Harding and Fei Liu.

Theo Fennell hits theroad to find ad models

British jeweller Theo Fennell has opted for an unusualway of promoting its first fine silver jewellery collection,

Alias. In June this year it launched the Alias ‘Open Road’project in partnership with online style magazine DazedDigital. The Alias and Dazed teams attended five of the UK’s top festivals this summer, casting for individuals with a unique sense of style to be part of the Alias ‘family’ for itsSpring/Summer 2012 advertising campaign.

At the end of the tour a voting system was in place to allow the public to vote for who theyconsidered to have the most individual style. The finalists each won a £1000 gift voucher to spend on the Alias collection and the opportunity to feature in the forthcoming Alias adcampaign. Glastonbury attendee Jen Popplewell from Leeds and Charlene O’Rourke fromKent who was spotted at the Isle of Wight festival were the two winners.

S N I P P E T SGemvision partners Holts

Gemvision’s Matrix jewellery design software– the latest version of which was launchedat IJL – is to feature in a new jewellery manufacturing training scheme run by HoltsAcademy of Jewellery, based in HattonGarden. The Industry Certified CAD Designqualification (ICCD) is the first in the UK tofollow standards set by the industry andrecognised qualification bodies, which leads to a Level 3 Diploma in PreciousMetal CAD CAM.

Hulquist launches UK showroom

Precious Juice Agencieswhich runs Danish fashion jewellery brandHulquist in the UK hasopened a new showroomin World’s End, Chelsea,London. Working on shortorders the company istaking orders and top-ups from now untilChristmas, while the Spring 2012 collectionwill be available in November. Having oncesold solely though lifestyle and fashionstores, Hulquist is now proving to be a cost-conscious addition to an increasing numberof jewellery retailers.

F Hinds award winner

Birmingham based Sian Hughes has scoopeda jewellery design Award, sponsored byhigh street jewellery retailer F. Hinds and IJL.Hughes, who operates from her workshopin the Jewellery Quarter, won the ‘NewlyEstablished Designer Category’ of the ‘HighStreet by Design’ competition with herFolded Heart Collection.

Gemworld, Munich

Following its restructure in 2009, gems andjewellery will play an even stronger role inMunich’s international trade fair aimed atthe mineral and fossil scene. There will nowbe four separate areas at the Munich Show,including Gemworld – for precious stonesand fine jewellery, and Stoneworld – for finestone accessories. 1,250 exhibitors from 56countries will show at the fair which will runfrom 28th-30th October at the Trade FairCentre. Gemworld will also show thefamous blue Wittelsbach Diamond.

SILVER ANDSTAINLESS STEEL JEWELLERY FOR MENNEW 2012 COLLECTION

To become an authorised stockist, contact Saleson T: 01376 532 000 E: [email protected]

| NAG News


For as long as we can remember, the NAGhas been lending its industry-recognised

support to London’s biggest and brightestjewellery show – International JewelleryLondon (IJL). And this year was no different,as Luke Street staff descended on EarlsCourt 2 to spread the good word of theassociation's tireless work on behalf of retailjewellers up and down the country.

In a change to previous shows, this yearthe NAG set up stall with our friends at theBritish Jewellers Association (BJA), to continueto promote our flourishing ‘Grow Your Own’campaign and report on our work over thelast year. Located near to the Boulevard

Runway and opposite the Inspire SeminarTheatre, the NAG stand offered snacks andchampagne to visitors as a welcome breakfrom pounding the aisles and viewing newjewellery trends. While weary buyers restedtheir feet they were entertained by ourfriendly team, with issues such as security,training, and community problems facingretail jewellers today up for discussion.

Over the four days, guests were able toattend a number of enlightening talks rangingfrom the formation of diamonds, to utilisingsocial media and boosting retail sales. TheNAG lent their support as ever, by hosting aseminar by Mark Beale, current president of

the Metropolitan Police Flying Squad. His‘Keep It Simple’ talk outlined the straightfor-ward, yet often overlooked security detailsthat could make the difference when it comesto being targeted by criminals.

Added to this was another NAG seminar,this time given by Alan Townsend, Ex-Metropolitan Police Flying Squad andSaferGems advocate, who gave a talk onthe effectiveness of the SaferGems scheme,which has seen another successful year.

Mike King from Action for Market Townsjoined IJL on Tuesday, after impressing CouncilMembers back in March with his workshopbilled as ‘An interactive workshop focusedon specific aspects of market towns’.

So, another IJL came to a close, but itlives on in spirit – as the inspiring wordsspoken during the four days will begin toforge the future for the industry over thenext year. A sentiment shared by NAG CEOMichael Hoare. “The Inspiration Theatregave us all a huge amount to think aboutover the coming months, with its range of thought-provoking and educational talks,” he says. “I really enjoyed a lot of the seminar programme, and the catwalkshowed off some real gems, if you’ll excusethe pun. All in all, the whole show seemedto have a great buzz about it and I thoughtit proved yet again what a vital role IJL playsin not only the purchase of stock but alsothe exchange of ideas that will pave the wayfor the Christmas period and beyond.”

The NAG has recently endorsed TheGemmological Association of Great

Britain’s (Gem-A) newly updated Foundationin Gemmology course.

Graduates of the course will receive their Certificate in Gemmology and may thenuse the designation ‘Cert. GA’ after theirnames. Should they wish to pursue theirstudies further, they may proceed to Gem-A’srenowned Diploma in Gemmology, leadingto eligibility for election to full Gem-AFellowship (FGA) status.

Valuers wishing to become NAG InstituteRegistered Valuers (IRV) will require theGem-A Diploma in Gemmology and be ofGem-A Fellowship Status (FGAs), or have anequivalent level of gemmological training.

Michael Hoare,NAG CEO, said: “Formany years the NAGhas provided a gemcourse for its mem-bers. Gemstones area vital componentof jewellery, andknowledge of gem-mology is essential for many of those in thetrade. Nevertheless, gem education is aspecialist and rapidly evolving field. Thisnewly updated course provides an excellentintroduction to the identification of thegems that retailers and valuers are likely to encounter in jewellery and covers valueand quality factors.”

Dr Jack Ogden, Gem-A CEO, said: “Gem-Awas born 100 years ago as an NAG committee, set up to develop gem educationfor UK jewellery retailers. It is now a separateorganisation, an educational charity offeringgemmology courses worldwide.”

Gem-A’s Foundation in Gemmology coursemay be studied at home by a unique blendof conventional distance learning and e-learn-ing (with some practical face-to-face semi-nars), in London at evening or day classes.

For more details about Gem-A educationplease visit: www.gem-a.com/education.aspxFor more information about the NAG visit:www.jewellers-online.org For informationon the NAG Institute of Registered Valuersgo to www.jewelleryvaluers.org

The NAG at IJL 2011

NAG endorses Gem-A gemmology course


NAG News |

New Member Applications

Members wishing to comment on any of these applications can call Amy Oliver on tel: 020 7613 4445 or email her at: [email protected] within threeweeks of receipt of this issue.

Allied ApplicationsClogau Gold of Wales Ltd, Bodelwyddan, Wales

Gold-N-Diamonds, Atlanta, Georgia, USA

Icegrade Group Ltd (MRFS Group), Kingston-Upon-Thames

Prakash Gem Merchant & Jeweller, Harborne,Birmingham

Alumni Associate ApplicationsJonathan Paul Tabard, Tadworth, Surrey

Alumni Fellow ApplicationsMichelle Knust, Enfield, London

Sarah Ann Medhurst, Bedford

The day before IJL started, the NAG’s own Jonathan Lambert appeared on the BBC Your Money programme to discuss the relative worth of having treasured items

regularly valued for insurance purposes. Following on from NAG research surrounding the issue, Lambert appeared on the show

to discuss how retail jewellers are part of a group that includes more than six million homeowners whose jewellery and family heirlooms are not correctly valued. The issue comes to lightas many have found that in the case of loss or theft of these items, insurance companiesare unwilling to match the original price of the item without a trusted valuation certificate.Speaking from his position aschairman of the NAG’s Institute of Registered Valuers, Lambertoutlined “the minute cost of valuing an item, compared to theamount lost if an insurance company decides not to pay out”.Lambert’s comments come aftera wave of reports within theindustry about proper valuations,and a number of customersbeing stung when an insurancecompany is unable or unwilling topay out to replace the items.

With the price of silver at nine times its value 10 years ago, and gold prices rocketing upa further 50 per cent over the last year, it’s important that both jewellers and homeownersalike undertake valuations of their most precious items. With the relative value of jewelleryincreasing through these difficult financial times, it’s important that customers and retailersare protecting themselves against further loss by taking heed from these calls.

To see Lambert’s comments first-hand, visit the BBC ‘Your Money’ website, and click on the link ‘Under-Insurance Warning For Millions’. For more information on how to approacha valuation, you can either contact your insurance provider to see what’s required wheninsuring valuable items, the valuers they trust, and how to get a valuation. Alternatively, youcan contact the IRV by email: [email protected]

NAG Council & Forum on BelfastThe next Council & Forum will be held

on 18th October 2011 on board the historical HMS Belfast and is most definitelya NAG event not to be missed. As alwaysthe invitation is open to all NAG members…so please do not miss out!

Apart from NAG business, the day’s proceedings will also involve a guided tourthroughout the ship followed by a threecourse lunch in the fascinating surroundingof The Gun Room. If you would like to attend

or to learn further details, please contactRitu Verma on tel: 020 7613 4445 or emailher at: [email protected]

NAG education andtraining – selling toChinese customers

Chinese customers already account forabout 30 per cent of the luxury goods

market in Britain and, on average, eachChinese tourist spends double the amountof an American tourist and come to the UK all year round, not just at peak times.Added to this, Chinese tourist numbers arepredicted to double by 2014.

This is why the NAG’s ‘Selling to ChineseCustomers’ training course makes suchsense to jewellery retailers. Facilitated byVirada Training, the one-day course (dateand location to be confirmed) was createdspecifically for sales people working in theluxury retail sector and tells you everythingyou need to know about dealing withChinese customers.

It includes practical advice on dealingwith the cultural differences; the dos anddon’ts that can make or break a sale andtop tips to close more sales and get moreChinese customers. The course covers fivecore areas: China and Chinese customers;Chinese cultural influences on shoppingbehavior; interacting with Chinese cus-tomers; adapting your sales approach forChinese customers and key phrases inMandarin you need to know

For a brochure or to book a place contact:Amanda White on tel: 020 7613 4445 oremail: [email protected]

IRV – looking after ‘your money’

| NAG News


Congratulations on your very significantanniversary! How did you mark the day?There were 40 of us at the celebrations –including staff and customers. We took abox at Carlisle Racecourse on Ladies Nighton 1st August and sponsored a race andpresented a trophy to the winning owners.There was a marquee in which we hadAntwerp Diamonds, Pequignet Watches and Ti-Sento Jewellery displaying theirgoods, and as a special treat we provided an 18ct yellow gold and steel LadiesPequignet Diamond set watch valued at£1,720, which a lucky race goer won in afree draw on the night. The evening proveda great success for all concerned and theladies certainly enjoyed looking at the jewellery. On the actual date when I firststarted in the jewellery trade – 9th October– my staff and I will be having a specialmeal together at a rather nice hotel in theLake District.

How do think the jewellery industry has changed over the last 50 years? Have there been any particular trendsthat are noteworthy?The trade has changed enormously over thepast 50 years. There are a lot more multiplesthan there were when I started. With theadvent of shopping channels and the internet it has certainly made our task ofselling a lot more challenging. We havelearned to be much more pro-active.

There have been a number of trends thatstand out in the memory. In the mid ’70sthe ingot craze was amazing, as well as theamount of 9ct three-bar gate bracelets wesold. In the late ’90s we got involved inimporting lapis lazuli globes from China whichproved very popular for a couple of years.The past few years of course have seen therise of the bead and charm link phenomenon.

Do you have any predictions for theindustry in the near future?Predictions for the future are not easy; ifthey were we all would be millionaires! Whowould have thought gold would have reachedsuch a high price? Certain watch houses aregetting very dictatorial, and I can see thatgetting worse. It would not surprise me ifthey opened their own shops and did awaywith traditional jewellers. I think the goodindependent jeweller needs to be very awareof fast changing trends and also have agood bespoke side to his normal business.There will always be, I hope, a demand forthe best quality and great service combinedwith an excellent knowledge of our trade.

What, at the moment, is the best sellingjewellery at Beadle & Hill?Diamonds are still very strong, particularlysingle stones and half hoops in white goldor platinum. Specialist cut diamonds are alsomaking their mark, such as the ‘Phoenix’ cutrange of diamonds. Ti-Sento silver jewellery,

Tianguis Jackson silver jewellery andNomination links are also very strong sellers.

Have you ever thought of expandingBeadle & Hill?I started Beadle and Hill in 1976 in a smallshop in Fisher Street, and have moved tobigger premises over the intervening years, until two years ago when we decidedto downsize to our present location. We donot sell the large items such as canteens ofcutlery, silver holloware, crystal glasses etc,so we don’t need as much space for display.In the late ’70s we did have another shop in Penrith for a number of years, but it did not prove very successful so we decided tomove to bigger premises in Carlisle andconcentrate all our efforts into one shop.

The business joined the NAG very earlyon… What prompted you to join and subsequently remain in membership?The information and services that the NAG gives to its members is invaluable.Knowledge is power no matter what tradeyou are working in, so I had no hesitation inapplying to become a member and wouldencourage any aspiring jeweller to join.

Every issue we ask our Member of theMonth for a memorable story about acustomer – does one spring to mind?There are many such stories about customers,but very few that I would dare divulge at this moment in time! However, one thatsticks in my mind is the day that BobbyStokoe came into the shop. As I am fromSunderland, and he was the manager ofSAFC when Sunderland beat Leeds Utd in the 1973 FA Cup, it was a great thrillmeeting him. He also showed me his FAWinners medal.

If you would like your business to be considered as Member of the Month,please write in and tell us why! Send anemail to: [email protected]

This issue Amy Oliver speaks to Jon Beadle of Beadle & Hill Ltdin Carlisle, Cumbria which opened in 1976 and has been an NAGmember since 1977. Jon celebrates his 50th anniversary in thetrade this year.

NAG member of the Month

| NAG News: Education & Training


In this month’s issue, we’re celebrating not one, but two JET 1 projects as winners

of the coveted Bransom JET 1 ProjectAssignment Award. Held in conjunction withour friends at Bransom Retail Systems, eachmonth, the NAG’s education departmententers the best JET 1 assignments into acompetition for ‘best project’. Selected bythe external examiners, the award gives students the chance to be rewarded with atrip to the prestigious Goldsmiths’ Hall, forthe presentation of certificate at our annualstudent award ceremony.

Looking back to July, the first of our twowinners, is Victoria Jolly of The JewelleryOutlet in York. Victoria has created a project that was described as ‘highly commendable’ by the external marker,

and the piece she submitted clearly reflectsa huge amount of talent. When we caughtup with Victoria to ask how it felt to be named as one of the project winners she told us: “I was so surprised to get the phone call. I worked extremely hard onthe project, so it’s wonderful to receive the recognition. I found the course bothenjoyable and challenging. I’d taken the timeto do some extra research, which obviouslyreally helped when it came to the project.The course itself has been hard, but I’vereally enjoyed it. It’s given me so muchmore confidence in my customer serviceand sales abilities. I’d like to thank everyonewho’s supported me through the courseand I hope I can continue this hard work inthe day to day job and beyond.”

Commenting on the quality of Victoria’sproject, her course tutor said: “She has been a very good student who hasshown great commitment to the course.

Her research and presentation have been of the highest standard resulting in topmarks.” The project marker, who graded theproject, informed us that “Victoria producedextremely good answers for each assignment.I am particularly impressed with the contentand the presentation of the project. It ishighly commendable. The project answer isparticularly good because Victoria has taken each of the four Cs and explained itsmeaning and relevance to diamond grading. It is clear she has given a greatdeal of serious thought to just how eachsection has been worded; this helps thereader follow the train of thought.Numerous feasible practical solutions wereput forward as to the possible ways of usingthe diamond ring, and each were explainedfully and with a sound dialogue methodologythat was refreshing to read. Really well doneto Victoria, who’s a very worthy winner ofthe Bransom Award for July.”

Our second student to be recognised, is August winner, Wai-on Leon Li of

Mappin & Web in Guilford. Another veryworthy recipient of the award, Leon’s tutorMichelle McCormick thought that Leon’sassignments were always on time and well presented, which made it a pleasure to read and mark. “His work is always easyto read – a quality that will stand him ingood stead in his future studies,” she says.“He demonstrated a ‘professional attitude’in presenting product knowledge in a sellingsituation. There is no doubt Leon makes a personal contribution to his company’sprofessional sales team.”

In addition the project moderator felt that:“There is one word to describe the quality ofthis final piece of JET 1 online assignmentwork, and that word is ‘OUTSTANDING’!Leon has described the four Cs in a reallyclever and interesting way. He has given anoverview of the whole story of the four Csand has demonstrated a clear understandingof customers’ desires and the role that asales person needs to play. The use of modern technology to assist in sales hasbeen implemented too. This project clearlyshows us that Leon has a full understandingabout the four Cs, product knowledge andthe needs of a customer. This is a superbproject which also could also be used toassist in staff training. All five assignmentshave been of excellent standard and well presented too. I’m glad to announceLeon as the winner of the August award. It’s extremely well deserved.”

It’s clear from these comments that Leontakes his work very seriously. A feeling that

Two students become Bransom Award winners

I found the course both enjoyable and challenging. I’d takenthe time to do some extra research, which obviously reallyhelped when it came to the project. The course itself hasbeen hard, but I’ve really enjoyed it. It’s given me so muchmore confidence in my customer service and sales abilities.


NAG News: Education & Training |

Contact the National Association of Goldsmiths on:

Email: [email protected]: 020 7613 4445 Web: www.jewellers-online.org

was definitely felt when we broke the news to Leon. “I was delighted to hear from the education department that I’d won.It was really unexpected, but I’m so pleased,”he says. “The course itself was amazing. I’d been planning to do it for ages and it wasonly now, with the support of my regionalmanager, I could take it on. I’ve been in theindustry for about three years now, and havebeen slowly gaining experience until I feltthe time was right to take the JET 1 course.

Having taken the course now, I realise Ishould’ve done it a long time ago. My tutor,Michelle was greatly supportive, and thetutorials she hosted to guide us along wereof great help. I’d like to thank Michelle, andCharles O’Costa (my regional manager) forall the support during the course. It’s been agreat learning experience, and I’d definitelyrecommend everyone who’s joining thejewellery industry to do Jet 1.”

Once again, we’d like to congratulate ourwinners on their extremely hard work, andhope they continue their great successes.

Students who successfully complete allfive assignments of JET 1 to a satisfactorystandard will be awarded a JET 1 certificate

and are then entitled to continue on to JET2 and the completion of the ProfessionalJewellers’ Diploma.

For more information on the JET courses, go to www.jewellers-online.org or call 0207613 4445 (option 1). For information onBransom visit: www.bransom.co.uk

Sadly, the jewellery sector remains a high-risk target for organised and

violent criminal activity. Faced with the ever-increasing occurrences of armed robberythe NAG’s education and training departmentis introducing a new one-day security programme for its members. The seminar –‘Armed Robbery – Reducing the Risk andImproving Profitability’ – will be facilitated byleading UK risk consultancy TFS and will beheld later this month (date to be confirmed).

The programme will examine the humanreaction to the impact of a robbery and will

provide a number of practical skills that havebeen shown to work in real life situations.Simple and easy to remember tactics will be demonstrated to address preventativemeasures and delegates will be shown howto deal with an attack and remain safethroughout. Post-scene management willalso be covered.

Delivered by an experienced team ofsecurity professionals, this masterclass eventwill provide a significant return on investment,that includes a supporting CD training modulefor immediate use within a business.

During the programme you will learn howto: disrupt a potential attack; display safe staffbehaviours during a robbery; observe andcollect important descriptive data; correctlyreport the event to police; and establishwhat motivates criminals to attack a certainbusiness? What would always deter them?The level of violence used or threatened.

For more information on the programmecontact Amanda White at the NAG on tel: 020 7613 4445 or email her at: [email protected]

NAG introduces new security programme

Having taken the coursenow, I realise I should’vedone it a long time ago.

| NAG News: IRV Review


There’s a great deal of knowledge andexperience out there and by simply

sending an email members of the IRV EmailGroup are able to tap into this resource.Other members might be able to assist withall manner of topics relating to our trade –and often not just relating to valuing.

For instance, the IRV Email Group can beused to: find suppliers/manufacturers tohelp you with a job, or help you learn more about the less famous makes anddesigners; seek help with valuing/sourcingthe unusual, rare or specialist pieces such as natural black pearls, bronze trophies, civic regalia, ecclesiastical items, designer/retailer-specific pieces, etc; find out moreabout unique engravings, commemorativecoins, commissioned wristwatches and sothe list goes on.

Horological items often come in for valuation or repair – whether they are clocks

or watches. In this instance Group memberswill be able to help with information onmakers, as well as restoration and values,whether the item is a Rolex or Vertex,Bueche Girod or Omega – and every othermake in timepiece history.

Members can also help to identify unusualmarks – including those ‘hallmarks’ that infact aren’t hallmarks at all (and you may find others who have also come across thesame marks).

And it’s not just the rare and unusual thatyou might need help with valuing – recentemails have thrown up amber, aquamarine,branded diamonds and coloured diamonds.Fellow IRVers might also be able to shedsome light on silver pieces, perhaps help toidentify the makers, age, and value ofpieces, whether they are ‘home-grown’,continental or from further afield. And thenthere are the reproduction pieces – thosethat are clearly ‘marketed’ and those madeto deceive.

Added to all of the above are any issueswhich need to be brought to Group members’ attention. This might include: the care required in dealing with clients;guidance on how best to value itemsimported from abroad, or those that havebeen embellished or ‘adapted’.

The IRV Email Group also provides anideal platform to offer to others items thatare no longer required such as tools, booksetc; hear about the latest press coverageand news about our industry and let another Group member know if you believeyou’ve recently seen the item they nowhave in their possession.

The Institute is extremely grateful to thosemembers of the Group who regularly helptheir fellow Group members with theirenquiries, in short, the idea behind theGroup would not work without them.

If you would like to join the Group, eitherto benefit from the expertise and knowledgeof its members, or to contribute and assistit, please contact Sandra Page, the IRV’s co-ordinator, at: [email protected] in the trade are welcome to join.

Loughborough underway!As we go to press the IRV’s LoughboroughConference has just taken place. The Institutewelcomed over 140 delegates to the annualevent held at Loughborough university, a fullreport of which will appear in the Novemberissue of The Jeweller.

NAG Institute of Registered Valuers R E V I E W

The IRV Email Group– a vital link for valuers/jewellers and a valuable source of knowledge and experienceFrom time to time the IRV pages in The Jeweller draw attentionto some of the subjects that are raised through the IRV EmailGroup network. It can make for extremely insightful readingsays Sandra Page.

This image and bottom left: items that havefeatured in IRV Email Group discussions

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BJA News |

The weather has been something of apreoccupation in the news media

recently, with the natural turbulence reflectingthe battering of global economies. So asHurricanes Irene and Katia fade into the history books, what is the outlook for thejewellery industry?

Although national and international gloomand doom continues unabated, the newscloser to home would appear to be morepromising. Exhibitor numbers at this year’sInternational Jewellery London were highand attendance figures were up by a smallpercentage, to stand at close to 10,000.Feedback from BJA member firms was, as isever the case, somewhat mixed, but I know ofa number of both large and small businesses,across a diverse range of products, whichenjoyed excellent trading.

For the first time ever the BJA and theNAG joined forces for the show with a combined stand and a joint message as‘The Voice of the Industry’. Together we provided a strong and united front regardingindustry specific topics such as securityissues and ethical trading.

IJL provided the BJA with an opportunity toshowcase our recently revamped websitewww.bja.org.uk which was prominently displayed on a large flat TV-style screen on the stand and was available onlinethroughout the fair. Feedback was extremelypositive and many visitors were genuinelyamazed to discover the wealth of useful features that the site now offers the industry.If you haven’t visited it yet do go.

I also urge all those members who havenot yet taken advantage of the new, online‘update your details’ facility, in theMember’s Area of the site, to do so. This willhelp you to keep your company’s onlineprofile fresh and your product images current. The site provides a fantastic andcomprehensive, year-round, sourcing facility for buyers seeking out products andservices and if you’re not in, you could miss out.

Another coup for the BJA was Kickstart.This group stand for designer makers issponsored by IJL and curated by The BJA’sLindsey Straughton and Aldyth Crowtherwho both choose and mentor those who

take part. Thestand not onlylooked extremelystylish, but alsoshowcased someexciting productsproving a magnetto buyers at theshow. This initia-tive which is nowin its third year has been a tremendouslaunch pad for a growing number of up-and-coming jewellery businesses and it wasgratifying to see so many previousKickStarters taking their own stands at theshow this year.

So what conclusions can we draw? Arewe all in for stormy weather in our businesslives in the months to come, or willChristmas be clement? Personally after such a successful IJL, I prefer to think theoutlook’s fair!

Michael Hughes, Chairman

Mike Hughes, chairman of the BJA

The outlook’s fair!

This year the Autumn Fair International,which was held at NEC Birmingham last

month, offered a new award – given by the fair organisers EMAP and the BJA’s sister association British Travelgoods andAccessories Association (BTAA). ‘Best NewCollection’ at the show put the spotlight onBritish brands and individual designer-makers producing cutting edge travel goods,handbags and accessories to the higheststandard and BJA member BalaganJewellery was one of the two runner-uprecipients of the award.

BTAA chief executive Diana Fiveash said“we are overjoyed to be running this competition in conjunction with EMAP atAutumn Fair International. We’ve had somany new innovative designs following onwith the latest trends. Our judges have had a fun but difficult time selecting theshortlisted products.”

The BJA’s Anna Gibson attended theevent and discovered an impressive line upof brands providing a broad choice of jewellery styles. “Particularly outstandingwere the cutting edge designs which gave a refreshing look to high quality yet well-priced and wearable fashion jewellery. Many of the autumn collections took theirinspiration from elements found in forests,with dramatic colours including the latesttrends in metallic tones such as rose gold.

The passion and enthusiasm of designers ofwholesale silver jewellery provided diverseand unique individuality,” she reports.

“The choice was endless, from companiesimporting high-quality, ethnic-style,fashionably funky necklaces and bangles, todesigners offering very individual, quirkypieces. Added to this, the catwalk provideda really inspirational showcase of newtrends for buyers.”

Balagan wins award at Autumn Fair International

Rachel Parkin of Balagan on their stand at IJL

Balagan necklace


If you haven’t already planned how yourChristmas windows are going to look this

year, it might be a good idea to think aboutit now! You could, of course, drag out thetired old decs from the back of the stockroom and hope for the best. Better thoughto give seasonal sales figures a bit of aboost with displays that will really lure thegift-hunters.

This selection of festive window displaysfrom a handful of cutting edge jewellerystores and global brands might provideartistic food for thought and creative consultant Judy Head offers her expert adviceon making the best of what you’ve got.

And because we know you’ve got it in you,we hope you might feel inspired to enter our‘Best Window Display of Christmas 2011’

competition. Send your photos to the editor([email protected]) by 12th Decemberand we’ll award a special afternoon teaand ‘experience’ prize to the best entry. The top three entries will also receive a bottle of Champagne and we’ll publish ourfavourites in the New Year.

Judy Head onChristmas display trends…• Last year we saw the return of theme

dressing and lively displays with dramaticlighting and props. This year the trendis still is even more theatrical with 3Deffects, giant photographs and layers of

Putting on the

Have you got Christmas all wrapped up, display-wise? Here aresome pearls of wisdom on creating the best seasonal windowsand a few inspirational ideas from Christmas past…

Cartier

Boodles


Feature |

backdrops so that the stock appears litwithin a framework of the fantasy theme.

• Lots of backlit images and warmcolours – subtle gold and brown thisyear rather than the bold red and silverof 2010.

• A harder, more commercial edge hasbeen seen in windows recently – giantimages of the stock or pictures of models wearing a selection of stockseen laid out beneath it. These imagesreflect the advertising campaign beingrun by the brand, remind the consumerof the promotion and the retailer thatthey have a limited amount of time tomaximise the opportunity!

• Christmas is still the major season forconsumer spend, and the big stores –and many small independents – viewthe sales figures for the last quarter ofthe year as an indicator of the salestrends to come. But Christmas isalways Christmas. No matter how grim the economic forecast may be,the consumer will spend money ongifts and make it a happy family occasion. So the stores allocate large

budgets for visual merchandising, and the window displays and interiordisplays are planned 12 months ormore in advance. Sadly, many jewellersdo not invest in their displays, and socannot be surprised that their figuresreflect their general lack of interest and confidence.

• With so much at stake and so manymore retailers and e-tailers selling jewellery, it is more important thanever to present the stock in an imaginative and exciting way to stopthose potential buyers in the street and persuade them to take the firststep in the sales process – walkthrough the door of your shop.

No matter how grim the economic forecast may be, the consumer will spend money on gifts and make it a happyfamily occasion.

Asprey

Chopard

Rox

Christmas display byJudy Headusing jewellery by Lapponia

�

| Feature


…and tips for creating agreat Christmas display:

• Invest in new clean display stands andprops – and throw away the tired tinseland broken Christmas bells. Try puttingin two or three areas of free dresseddisplay using images and props to create drama

• Clutter creates confusion. Limit theamount you put in the front windowand use a few simple speaker tickersabout one or two unusual pieces topull people through the door.

• Make it really easy to see the stock andencourage your customers to ask forfurther information, a catalogue orleaflet. You could even offer them amince pie and a glass of bubbly

• Dress the interior of the store to reflect the window display – make it adventurous and exciting

• Try a fantasy theme – even a story –and create a window that will stoppassers-by in their tracks

• Change the layout of the windows toreflect the type of product that poten-

tial customers might be looking for. For example, it is the season forengagements so perhaps a larger than usual display of engagement ringsand other betrothal gifts, illustrated with images of young love. Or maybe a small display about the history of the betrothal ring, some famous lovematches or a competition for the most unusual engagement.

• Use quotes, testimonials or simplemessages printed on vinyl and placedon the inside of your window toencourage customers to walk through the door

• Make sure you have the name of your shop at eye level in the window. If your customer sees something theylike, you want them to rememberwhere they saw it

• This is the moment to throw out non-performing brands and put in someinteresting pieces that will appeal toyour market

• Try accessorising a life size photographicimage with real jewellery

• Use animation. For example, a screenwith slide or video display, or lights that flicker to resemble candlelight �

Solange Azagury-Partridge

Theo Fennell

Tiffany & Co.

Bulgari


As consumers’ disposable income hasdeclined they are shopping around more

for ‘best value’. In fact recent surveys indicatethat most customers of engagement ringsresearch diamonds on the internet prior tomaking a purchase. They are also more likelyto seek reassurance that their purchase represents real value for money; often relyingon diamond certificates for this purpose.

Yet retailers and valuers often report tothe NAG that they believe certain certificatesare “not worth the paper they’re written on”,and some laboratories “constantly exaggeratetheir grades by up to four grades higher thanothers”. If this is indeed the case, can anycertificates be relied upon to represent the‘true’ qualities, and therefore the value, of adiamond? Also, if some jewellers turn theirdiamond stock over to these certificates togive the illusion of better value, are the public being deceived? And at the sametime, are some retailers being penalised forlooking expensive when compared to suchexaggerated grades?

As customers are now being encouragedto see diamonds as a ‘commodity’ they mightexpect an international standard to allow

them to ‘compare apples with apples’. Is thevariability of certain certificates making comparative shopping a futile exercise?

The response to these questions makesfor very interesting reading: for instance,almost all those surveyed (87.3 per cent)felt that the seeking by customers of a certificate was becoming widespread, yetno-one was of the opinion that all certificates/ laboratories are equal. A fairlyconclusive number (90.5 per cent) agreedthat there should be an international standard for diamond certification, given thatinconsistent certificates present a problem

to the customers/insurers of 80 per cent ofthe respondents.

But who should set such a standard?Almost half thought GIA would be the bestcandidate; while a few others wonderedwhether CIBJO might be apt. The assayoffices and NAG were also mooted, while

many others admitted they simply didn’tknow. As for who might police any standard…the jury’s definitely out on that one!

The issue is by no means straightforward.“It is impossible to set a benchmark and criteria that every retailer would adhere to,”said one respondent, adding that “as anindustry there is too much self interest andprofit motive. In an ideal world it would be wonderful if we were all singing from the same hymn sheet, but I do not think thiswill happen in my lifetime.”

Finally, we asked for a few personal viewson diamond certification. The feedback waspretty revealing:• “I think the fact there is no criteria for

certificating diamonds means that youcannot compare, for example, a GIAcertificated diamond to an IGI certificateddiamond. You can only compare whenit is the same company certifcating thediamond. I believe the current system isvery confusing for customers becausethey are not always getting what theyare paying for”

• “Who would pay for the policing? It would have to be an accredited body.In the UK the NMO would over see it.Could CIBJO have a role in this?Artificially overstated certificates are justas serious as artificial stone treatments”.

• “They are a nuisance to the retail trade in that they have ‘commoditised’diamonds, whereas they should besold on their appearance/performanceand value”.

• “I rather thought that the whole pointof originally introducing certification(decades ago) was to create an industrystandard. It’s a pity it has been adulterated to such a point that we are discussing introducing a new standard! Sad times”

• “It is not an exact science and is a subjective analysis, so an internationalstandard would be very hard to implement and police. There are alwaysgoing to be disagreements due to allsorts of conditions unless you have aselect few regulated labs with exactly


Diamond certificates– our survey says...Last month members of the NAG were surveyed on the issue ofdiamond certification and, as we suspected, it’s a thorny subject.

But who should set such a standard? Many admitted theysimply didn’t know. As for who might police any standard…the jury’s definitely out on that one!

the same equipment and lighting conditions, but even then it is still ultimately a human opinion”

• “Stones should not be certificatedwhile mounted; issuing labs should benon profit-making; [there should be] no certs for stones under .25pts.; thereshould not be an SI3 designation andlabs should not be involved in values”

• “Certs are a very useful tool – men particularly like them. In general customers don’t understand them. It’s up to retailers to have the expertise to explain them”.

• “We ALWAYS inform customers thatcertificates are an OPINION only, carrying no weight in law, and are purelythe viewpoint of the individual graderwho examined the stone. They existonly as added reassurance to the consumer, but should never be reliedon in isolation – always seek the help of a knowledgable retailer or diamond dealer!”

• “There are very few labs that the reputable diamond dealers respect andthis should be followed by reputableretail jewellers. However the lessrespected labs give shops an unfairadvantage by grading too generously.Most knowledgable jewellers know this but many still choose to use these certs because they can sell thestones cheaper and it gives them anadvantage”.

• “Most retailers are well aware of thedifference in the quality of certificatesand anybody representing a lesserreport as the same as the best reports,without fully explaining the differences,is deliberately setting out to deceivetheir customers”

• “The internet holds far too much information, which becomes confusingand customers may well feel that the‘certificate’ takes away much of theirconfusion. They may understand caratand colour and a little of clarity BUT

there is no way that the average customer has any idea of whether or not they are purchasing a well cut and made diamond”

• “Customers have no idea that they are‘paying an upcharge’ for the certificatewhich they can avoid if they use well-informed educated ‘fair’ jewellers whoimpart their knowledge in educatingthe customer about their purchase”.

• “Customers have been brainwashed by ‘marketeers’ to expect a certificateddiamond; they expect a certificate

for diamond engagement rings BUTnever mention the topic for pendantsor diamond ear studs”.

• “Some customers just want the bit ofpaper to say it’s a diamond – colour etc seems less important to them.They want value for money, a piece ofpaper to say its diamond… and this ishow the cheaper certs are being used.It’s another tool to help sell a bog standard item. We would prefer onestandard to apply to all diamonds –there is a big difference between certs”.


Diamond Survey |

Do your customers research diamondson the internet before purchase?

Yes: 52.4%No: 0Sometimes:47.6%

Do your customers seek the reassurance of a diamond certificate?

Yes: 42.8%No: 3.2%Sometimes: 54%

Do you think this is becoming more widespread in the trade?

Yes: 87.3%No: 4.8%Maybe: 7.9%

Do you think all certificates/laboratories are equal?

Yes: 0No: 98.4%Sometimes: 1.6%

Do diamond certificates enable customers to make a fair comparisonbetween diamonds/shops?

Yes: 3.2%No: 37.1%To some extent:59.7%

Should there be an international standard for diamond certification?

Yes: 90.5%No: 9.5%

Do you think inconsistent certificatespresent a problem to customers/insurers?

Yes: 81%No: 0Sometimes: 19%

NAG Diamond Survey Results

“Stones should not be certificated while mounted;issuing labs should be non profit-making…”


Ask your average high street shopper whatproducts they associate with Denmark

and you’d probably get a combination ofDanish bacon, Lego, Carlsberg or all three.However due to the recent expansion ofDanish jewellery suppliers into the UK marketit is now just as likely your interviewees willbe sporting a Danish-designed charmbracelet, necklace or ring. Yet despite thisincrease in interest and knowledge ofDanish and Scandinavian design, our near-neighbours are often overlooked.

A good starting point to explore this influential market is a visit to the CopenhagenJewellery Fair, the largest jewellery and watchtrade fair in Scandinavia. The August 2011event comprised around 200 differentexhibitors, mainly from Denmark and theother Scandinavian countries as well as afew from Europe and further afield. All aspectsof the industry were covered, from fashionjewellery, gem stones and watches through tohollowware, casting technology and security.

The fair attracted 6,381 visitors over itsfour days which was unfortunately a sizeabledecline from the previous year’s figure of

7,152. However this wasn’t all bad news asinternational visitors grew 16 per cent relativeto 2010 giving Christoffer Ritzau, managingdirector of the Danish Jewellers’ Association(who helped organise the fair), somethingto be pleased about.

“The growing number of internationalbuyers reflects the positive international focusfor Danish suppliers and manufacturerswho are currently generating their growthon the international markets,” he explained.“However, the fair saw a decline in the number of Danish buyers, where purchasingpower is being influenced by the problemswe know too well – an imminent election,uncertainty regarding the global economy,high savings levels and inactive consumers.”

Beyond the exhibition stands there wasplenty more going on at the show. The BellaNordic Jewellery Award added a glamorouselement to the proceedings. Being held forthe fifth time, it is the biggest competitionfor goldsmiths in the Nordic region. Thecompetition finalists were ten skilled goldsmiths from Denmark, Finland, Iceland,Norway and Sweden, who competed overthree days of the show to produce a pieceof jewellery. The glamour and crowds wereevident on the Sunday when the winner,Charlotte Christina Larsen from Denmark,received her 50,000 Danish kroner first prizefrom HRH Princess Marie, the award’s patron.

New talented designer-makers were alsogiven a chance to shine through the BrandNew Copenhagen 2011 initiative. Each up-and-coming designer was given his or herown display cabinets located in the BrandNew section, right in the centre of the fair.This allowed potential buyers to peruse theircreations as well as giving them the chanceto win the Brand New Award. Twenty differentdesigners from numerous countries tookadvantage of the minimal cost to exhibit.This year’s winner was Frans Middelhoekfrom the Netherlands, who won the use ofan exhibition stand at next year’s fair.

Away from main business of the show,the Copenhagen Jewellery Fair also offeredstrategic and academic lectures as well asworkshops and fashion exhibits. One keenlyattended lecture outlined the upcomingautumn and winter trends in the jewelleryindustry. This was given by the editor of the Danish Goldsmith Association’s trademagazine AuClock and all-round jewelleryexpert – Nina Hald.

Hald predicted that black would likelydominate once again. “Black is always a surething – the most classic colour, which youcan never go wrong with,” she announced.However it would not all be dark – “rich

The NAG’s Henrik Dinesen visited the recent CopenhagenJewellery Fair to discover how the Scandinavian jewelleryindustry is faring and if its design is worth further investigation.

Wonderful, wonderful

Copenhagen!

Competitors in the BellaNordic Jewellery Awards

Frans Middelhoek


Feature |

colours will serve as a counterweight to thejet-black theme; every company presents its interpretation of the season’s paletteespecially through the use of specific gemstones. Warm colours combined withgold (or gilt); cooler shades with silver. Thecolours are usually intense, with a naturalfocus on pearls which come in many shades– both natural and dyed,” she continued.

“Three jewellery categories will primarilydominate the profiling of coming collections:bangles, sautoirs and chokers. Chokers willnever become a mainstream necklace category, so in reality the tight neck creationssold will be short necklaces with more conventional pendants. The alternative is verylong, thin necklaces, such as silver chainsdivided by the collections’ individual motifs.”She also mentioned other trends – punchedmetal work, including bangles and rings,would also be popular especially with motifssuch as hearts or stars ‘stamped’ out of themetal. Minimalism would be the overridingstyle with stars as a favourite motif. Abstractmotifs would also be a feature includingelongated drops and eternal circles.

Overall the mood at the fair was upbeatwith both retailers and suppliers optimisticfor the future. Ritzau has been working hardto promote Danish jewellery suppliers onthe international stage, so as to take fulladvantage of the recent growing interest.Coming from a strategy and marketing background, he has been keen to build astrong brand for Danish jewellery designabroad. “The supply side of the Danish jewellery industry has come far in buildingup business across borders, following in thefootsteps of Georg Jensen, Trollbeads andPandora. We are always looking for new waysor new partners to help build our suppliers’businesses internationally,” he explained.

Seeing the relatively small size of theDanish jewellery industry as advantageousrather than a hindrance, Ritzau is presentlyworking on a website that will act as a collective on-line store for the whole of theindustry – www.danishjewelery.com will allow

buyers to browse the jewellery collections ofthe major companies through to the smalldesigner-makers, all on one site. This shouldalso help to combat one of the major problems facing Danish jewellery suppliers;the selling of reproductions of their originaldesigns abroad. Some jewellery ranges cantake years to reach certain internationalmarkets, by which time local manufacturershave brought out their own versions of thedesign. The new website will give instantaccess to the world market and thus theability to export the original design from dayone. If enough suppliers join the website, it should be a very strong tool for the Danish jewellery industry. Ritzau is hoping tolaunch the website in three months time,firstly targeting English-speaking markets.

After being hit by the financial crisis followed by political uncertainty, Danishretailers have had a hard time of late.However sales are now slowly on theincrease and with an election called, thefuture looks positive. Line Bech, managingdirector of the National Jeweller andWatchmaker Association, believes the crisishas been a catalyst for change. “Customershave fundamentally changed and the retailersare adapting to this, though it will take time,”she said. “Their businesses have to be moreservice minded; listening to the wants of theconsumer, changing their stock accordinglyand dealing with customers’ needs even ifthey occur outside traditional working hours.”

The other major problem facing retailersis crime. Europe’s open borders have led to

huge increases in burglaries by mainly EastEuropean gangs, making the police’s work,stretching across several international borders,extremely difficult and arrests are rare. Thishas put insurance premiums through the roofand some jewellery retailers even struggleto find an insurance company willing towork with them. The response has been toset a crime prevention scheme, similar tothe NAG’s SaferGems, bringing together all the various retailers, from across thecountry, in partnership with the police. The venture is still in its infancy but the earlyindications are good.

The Copenhagen Jewellery Fair was asmall and friendly show. It may not have the footfall of other international jewellery exhibitions but there are plenty of networkingopportunities. If Scandinavian design is ofparticular interest to your business then it is well worth a visit. Although with the continued growth in the influence of theScandinavian jewellery industry, this maywell become one of the premier events on the international jewellery circuit.

The response has been to set a crime prevention scheme,similar to the NAG’s SaferGems, bringing together all the various retailers in partnership with the police.

| Security


SaferGems colleagues Dick Hanks, AlanTownsend and Lee Henderson were in

the spotlight recently when they gave apresentation to other security industry professionals at the IBP Focus on Robberyand Serious Crime Symposium on Hayling Island. The event attracts the mostknowledgeable people in the sector, as wellas some interested bystanders such as me,and this year the excellent results achievedby SaferGems from a standing start twoyears ago were applauded by the industry.Readers of this column will be well aware ofthese successes but it was a great pleasurefor the team to receive the recognition oftheir peers.

Highlights of a packed agenda includedGraham Mott, from LINK who demonstratedthe level of intelligence and organisationemployed by ATM fraudsters who commitcrimes against the 64,000 machines thatdispense more than 70 per cent of the UK’scash. Crimes range from mugging ATMclients, which results in relatively lowrewards – but has the greatest impact onthe victim – to skimming which has leastimpact on victims, but the highest rewardfor the criminal. While the UK and Germanysuffer the most card fraud, with 2.1 millionmachines worldwide, the numbers mustescalate internationally. Biometric identitysolutions could virtually eliminate card fraudbut customers’ concerns about access tobiometric data limit its use to date.

Graham Sunderland concentrated onrepeat victimisation and noted that criminalsoften re-visit the scenes of their crime.Research also shows that the more often youare the victim of crime the greater the chancesof being attacked again. It is astonishing tohear that in the UK, four per cent of peoplesuffer 44 per cent of all crime; 59 per centof retail crime is against only three per cent ofpremises; 75 per cent of all repeat robberiesare committed by the same offenders and19 per cent of armed robbers returned for a subsequent attack.

Kevin Tasker from the Centre for CrisisPsychology talked about the effect that robberies have on victims. Experiencing or

witnessing verbal or physical assault or threatsof death and serious injury leave victimsfeeling frightened, helpless, distressed, withdrawn and angry. And it can also lead tofeelings of survivor guilt. Thankfully mostrobbers are appeased by money and mostvictims don’t get injured. But, although 40per cent of victims suffer no reaction, 60 percent will suffer significant psychological andphysical symptoms which may last for years.

SaferGems edited highlightsIt’s not every day that you circulate a pictureof a JCB digger in connection with a jewellerytheft, but mid way through the month theteam received some intelligence about thetheft of a pair of JCBs. One had already beenused to attack a cash centre in the WestMidlands and the fear was that the othermight play a part in a jewellery robbery. Thistime the call was just for extra vigilance, butit just goes to show the lengths that robberswill go to.

Next day the team were on the case of aman suspected of using cloned credit cardsfor purchases of high value goods inEdinburgh. No threat of violence, but a cacheof cloned cards, and a request for informationfrom other potential victims was issued.

Distraction thieves were in the frame thefollowing day, using a well known distractiontechnique to get away with gold braceletsvalued at over £600. Unluckily for them,they have now been linked to similaroffences in Staffordshire, Hampshire andSuffolk. So when the net finally closes onthem the charge sheet might be a bit longerthan they anticipated.

There was no subtlety employed by ournext set of offenders, who threatened staff ata Yorkshire jewellers’ with weapons in anattempt to steal. Their vehicle and MO islinked to two similar offences in same area.

These are just a sample of the alertsissued over a three week period at the endof August. Others included attacks by malespreviously known to have visited a shopposing as customers; a distraction leading tothe theft of a watch valued at over £19,000;and intelligence concerning internationaldiamond thieves believed to be in Londonduring IJL – a good illustration of the varietyof cases handled by our team. If you’vesomething to report, get in touch on 0845272 7802 or visit: www.safergems.org

Conference onserious crimeMichael Hoare offers some shocking crime statistics as revealedat a recent security symposium, but counters these with a fewencouraging SaferGems successes.

SaferGems colleagues Lee Henderson, Alan Townsend and Dick Hanks

Although 40 per cent of victims suffer no reaction, 60 per centwill suffer significant psychological and physical symptomswhich may last for years.


If diamonds were potatoes we would allhave burnt our fingers to a crisp long ago.

I confess this article will not read well bythose who have invested into diamondspurely as dealers. Diamonds are a humanrights issue in their own right and given the rapid decline in the credibility of theKimberley Process (KP) in the last 12 monthsthey will undoubtedly continue to be one.Let me explain.

Firstly let’s start at source. As I have pointedout many times over the years, small-scaleminers make up the overwhelming majorityof people employed in the mining sector.

More than a million African artisanal diamonddiggers and their families live and work in absolute poverty, outside the formaleconomy, in countries struggling to recoverfrom the ravages of war.

I have witnessed this truth in recentmonths as I have begun a new phase of my journey in jewellery through establishinga partnership with Fairtrade Africa – a cooperative movement among artisan miners in Africa. An elderly man with a prosthetic limb approached me on a recenttrip to Sierra Leone, shook my hand andasked if I would educate his grandchildren

in the way of peace so that war neverreturned to his country.

The historical conflicts in Sierra Leone,Angola, Cote D’Ivoire or, currently, DR Congoand Zimbabwe are real and continue to havea devastating impact on the lives of the poor,their communities and the infrastructure ofthose countries. Diamonds as we all knowhave been a very real driver in prolongingthose conflicts. The tragedy of war is thelegacy of ruined generations and 10 years ofthe KP does not mean everything is now OK.

Historically these conflict stones haveenriched us all and not a penny has everbeen paid in reparations by the traders whogreedily enriched themselves on the backsof these conflicts. This is why certain sectionsof the diamond industry who now so proudly boast about their founding supportfor the Kimberley Process, face such amoral dilemma. To call for the reinstatementof Zimbabwe diamond exports under theauspices of the KP is to deny the veryfounding principles of the KP and is clearhypocrisy. One senior member of the diamond fraternity is on record as saying at the 34th World Diamond Congress in2010: “Now I would like to ask each andeveryone of us to consider whether opposing

the legitimisation of Zimbabwe diamondexports benefits the citizens of that countryor hurts them. After that, we can also askourselves whether we helped or hurt thediamond and jewellery industries the worldover and all the people that make arespectable, honest living in it?”

These very same miners and citizenshave been imprisoned, gunshipped off the diamond fields, illegally detained andtortured in secret camps. As a jeweller thequestion I have to ask myself is: “Do I wantsuch a diamond in my shop?” Obviously theanswer to that question is NO.


and Human Rights

| Ethical Jeweller

Greg Valerio is known as a fearless campaigner who does notmince words or shy away from awkward issues. In this article hesets out the measures that he feels the Kimberley Process mustaccept if it is to regain the moral high ground and the confidenceof the trade. While Greg’s views may make uncomfortable reading, we reproduce them in the interest of informed debate.

DIAMONDSand Human Rights

The Kimberley Processand Zimbabwe“Miners, retailers, and consumers haverelied on the Kimberley Process to stopblood diamonds from being sold, but withChairman Yamba’s decision, the KP hasbetrayed their trust,” said Arvind Ganesan,business and human rights director at HumanRights Watch. “Governments and companiesshould ignore his decision unless they wantto make blood diamonds available to consumers and ruin the credibility of theKimberley Process as well.”

As of the 5th September 2011 theKimberley Process website has Zimbabwelisted as being in full compliance with the KP.

These blood diamonds – as the AugustBBC Panorama programme aired andHuman Rights Watch has shown – continueto be stones that enrich the elite, persecutethe poor, suppress and censor the voice oftruth and systemically abuse human rights.It would seem therefore that there is a clashof values at the very core of the diamondstory that manifests itself in the question:“What is more important, human rights ormaking money at any price”. I am the first to admit that these two ideas are not mutually exclusive, yet in the heavily politicised diamond world, agreement ishard come by and confusion abounds.

And it is here that I am critical of The WorldDiamond Council, the body established toact as the governance framework for the KP.Firstly it welcomed the legal export of stonesfrom Marange in 2010. Then in less than six months it cautiously re-welcomed theintroduction of exports from Marange, butasks members to apply due diligence on allstones coming from Marange. Yet the factremains that the human rights abuses in the diamond fields of Zimbabwe have led the KP into utter confusion and division.The International Diamond ManufacturersAssociation alongside The ResponsibleJewellery Council have all shown a distinctlack of principled leadership in their vacillation over whether Zimbabwe shouldbe included or excluded from KP. It wouldappear as if all their press releases werewritten by lawyers. I have to be honest,given the huge body of evidence of bloodyabuses and blood spilt in the Marangeregion, it should not be a difficult decision.Zimbabwe out!

We need a Kimberley Process that hasinternational credibility and the tragedy isthat Kimberley has become a discreditedsystem and everyone in the industry knowsit is not working. Equally this vacuum ofstrategic leadership means the civil societyand campiagn groups are rightly becomingmore vocal about the veracity of the claims about ethics and conflict being spunby the industry. Here are some of my suggestions on how the KP can begin torestore its credibility:

1. It needs a full time secretariat for KP thatis representative of all stakeholders.

2. It needs to be properly funded by thediamond industry.

3. Human rights abuses need to beincluded in its terms of reference as areason to be excluded from the process.

4. The KP monitor (independent of the secretariat) needs to be 100 per cent fully independent and have no political or financial interests in diamond companies.

5. Cutting and polishing should be includedin the process, so that there is a full,accountable and transparent supplychain from mine to retail.

6. A representative of alluvial diamond diggers should have a permanent seat on the secretariat to ensure the voice of the majority.

7. The process should be directlyaccountable to the United Nations.

This may well lead to a smaller, leanerfit-for-purpose Kimberley Process,

but I believe it would mean one in whichthe international community can havegreater faith. Also it will mean the industrywould know which countries it can do business with and those it cannot.

The diamond brand as sold to the consumer is the icon of luxury, aspirationand purity. We talk of flawless perfectionbeing forged in the ancient fires of volcanicactivity and we seek to immortalise ourcommitments of love in this rock of compressed carbon. Yet its public image is– like all things in the world of politics – notits reality and substance. We have allowed,for commercial reasons only, the intentionaldivorce between product and ethics and assuch are now paying the price in the slowerosion of the diamond brand. For my partI would have the diamond become the newsymbol of the upholding of internationalhuman rights and the promotion of peace.It may just be the redemptive angle the diamond industry has been looking for.Greg ValerioJeweller and activist


Ethical Jeweller |

Given the huge body of evidence of bloody abusesand blood spilt in theMarange region, it should not be a difficult decision.Zimbabwe out!

| Legal Jeweller


All retailers – including jewellers – who selltheir products online may be tempted

to use a well-known brand name to attractcustomers who may be willing to consider analternative to the brand they were seeking,or who have simply used the brand nameas a search term to find similar products.

Four key areas could give rise to liabilityfor trade mark infringement – AdWords,meta tags, linking and domain names.

AdWordsAdWords are an increasingly popularmethod of optimising search engine results.Advertisers can purchase (pay per click) anAdword from the search engine Google (inthis instance). This results in the advertiser’sadvert showing in the sponsored links sectionof the search results when the AdWord istyped into the search engine.

However, an advertiser will infringe a registered trade mark if it uses another’sregistered trade mark as an AdWord and theadvert that appears after entering theAdWord as a search term does not enablethe average internet user (or enables thatuser only with difficulty) to ascertain whetherthe goods or services referred to in thatadvert originate from the trade mark owneror an undertaking economically connectedto it, or from a third party.

One might think that it would be quite easyto be able to differentiate an advertisementfrom the trade mark proprietor’s business.However, recently questions have beenreferred to the European Court of Justice inInterflora v M&S regarding confusion as tothe origin of goods or services arising whenthe competitor’s advertisement leads somemembers of the public to believe that thecompetitor is a member of the trade markproprietor’s commercial network when it isnot. We await the ECJ’s decision as to whether

M&S will be liable for trade mark infringementfor use of the word ‘Interflora’ as an AdWord.Until the outcome of this decision is known,caution should be used when consideringusing another’s trade mark as an AdWord.

Meta TagsThe most recent case on meta tag abuse is Reed Executive plc v Reed BusinessInformation Ltd in 2004. The Court ofAppeal held that there was no trade markinfringement by the use of the words ‘ReedBusiness Information’ in the meta tags ofthe Defendant. The fact that meta tags areinvisible to customers searching or visiting awebsite resulted in the court concludingthat there can be no likelihood of confusion.However, the facts of the case were very

specific and it is possible that in a differentsituation the outcome could have been different. In other European countries, thecourts have leaned towards finding that useof registered trade marks in meta tags constitutes trade mark infringement.

Domain NamesUse of another’s trade mark in a domainname is likely to constitute trade markinfringement if it is used for similar goods orservices to those for which the trade mark isregistered. The position is no different to theestablished law on trade mark infringement.

As well as bringing proceedings in the court,trade mark owners are also able to use WorldIntellectual Property Organisation’s arbitrationand mediation centre to apply for the transferor cancellation of a domain name which is

identical or confusingly similar to their trademark, provided there is an element of badfaith in the registration of the domain name.

LinkingIt may seem helpful to website users to create a link from one website to another.This is often done by including the trademark of the linked site on the linking siteand customers can click on this to take themto the trade mark holder’s site. However, theremay be circumstances where this constitutestrade mark infringement. For example, thelinking site may take unfair advantage of thecontent on the linked site or customersviewing the website might incorrectlybelieve that the linked site is part of thetrade mark holder’s site.

The case law on linking is not developed,but it is possible that use of a trade markwithout the consent of the proprietor willresult in a claim for passing off or trade markinfringement. It would therefore be bestpractice to obtain the consent of the trademark proprietor if you wish to use a trademark in a link. Please also note that in certain circumstances, linking can constitutecopyright infringement.

ConclusionBusinesses must understand the implicationsof using AdWords, meta tags, linking anddomain names and that these do not contain any trade marks. Businesses shouldalso ensure that their trade marks are notused by competitors in this manner. www.boyesturner.com

Online retailing: how toavoid trade mark trapsThe internet provides new avenues for use of a third party’strade mark and the courts have been grappling with what typesof use constitute trade mark infringement. Intellectual propertysolicitor Holly Strube from law firm Boyes Turner explains.

Trade mark owners are also able to apply for the transfer or cancellation of a domain name which is identical or confusingly similar to their trade mark…

*CREATED FROM RECYCLED

SILVER AND GOLD

™

| Feature


In May this year the prestigious World’s Top10 Diamond Brands list for 2011 included a

name that was a newcomer to this particularroll call of luxury businesses. The new entry, in at number eight (as Tony Blackburn mightonce have said) was Lili Diamonds. What’smore, there at number six, was the brandCrisscut®, of which Lili is a partner.

Not bad going for a business that startedout just over 50 years ago as a small polishingworkshop in Israel. Arguably, it has also beenthe icing on the cake for a year that has seena number of pretty exciting developmentsfor the company which now has affiliates inNew York and Hong Kong, as well as one ofthe biggest factories in the Israeli diamondindustry – the polishing workshop employsover one hundred craftsmen.

Today Lili Diamonds is renowned for itsstraight edged diamonds manufacture andin particular, widely known for its innovativespecial cuts – globally-registered patents,including the aforementioned Crisscut® withits 85-facet configuration that highlights thestone’s length and adds a feeling of depth.

At the Diamond and Jewelry Exhibition inHong Kong in March and then at the JCK LasVegas show in June, Lili Diamonds unveiledthe latest in its impressive line-up of specialcuts – the Meteor Cut®. It is the most recentpiece of a lavish, carefully-compiled jigsaw thatnow includes a new logo, refreshed website,corporate video, updated catalogue and ahefty online publicity campaign (including, asyou might expect, social media site Facebook).It’s been a busy year for Lili Diamonds!

Compiled by executives, consultants andaffiliates of US-based management and consultancy firm United Brands, the Top Tenlist, with several luxury categories, is basedon several criteria such as product quality,design, performance, value, consumerrecognition, brand differentiation and marketing effectiveness. “This is a highly

esteemed honour,” acknowledges marketingmanager Nadav Attar, “and it’s undoubtedlythanks to our multi-year strategy aimed at making the most of our competitiveadvantages – which include new brandingand state-of-the-art website.”

The celestial branding – you need to visitlilidiamonds.com to get the full starry effectwith its 3D imaging and plethora of animations– provided the inspiration for the Meteor Cut®.Auspiciously enough it was created on the10th day of the 10th month 2010 and isdescribed by managing director Dotan Siman-Tov as a “perfectly built decagonal shape”with 10 straight walls built of 71 facets. “It took 10 months of diligent work and

Jewellerthe

Belinda Morris discovers a diamond brand with stellar aspirations that are taking it into a galaxy all of its own!

Brand ProfileLili Diamonds

“It took 10 months of diligentwork and persistentattempts to overcome the technical challenges, in order to cut the diamondwith flawless symmetry…”

L to R: Isaac Siman-Tov, managing director; Nadav Attar, marketing manager; Dotan Siman-Tov, managing director with two models

Meteor Cut® three stones ring


persistent attempts to overcome the technicalchallenges, in order to cut the diamond withflawless symmetry,” he adds. “Each facet is perfectly angled so that it radiates dazzlingbrilliance. We know that it has great marketing potential, but we have beenastounded by our clients’ response andenthusiasm – it seems that the MeteorCut® is about to become another one of LiliDiamonds’ signature pieces.”

Clearly, in a market that has seen atremendous rise recently in consumerawareness and knowledge of diamonds(along with ever-changing preferences) it’simportant to stand out from the crowd… inorder to stay ahead of the game (if you’llexcuse the metaphor over-load). “We arespecialised in a small niche which we call‘Unique Designs’,” says Attar, describing therange of proprietary diamonds which areworldwide protected, “and we have aresearch and development departmentwhich creates new shapes according toclients’ requests or our ideas.”

Sitting alongside the traditional cuts(emerald, square emerald, princess, radiantand cushion) that continue to play a majorrole in the business, the Crisscut®,Crisscut®Cushion, Wondercut® and MeteorCut® offer distinctive and very different diamonds for an increasingly demandingmarket. The R&D team conducts surveysamong designers and consumers – fromvarious market segments – around theworld, to determine what is being looked forand so arrive at innovative new directions.

This includes tailored designs createdexclusively for a company; customised tosatisfy a corporate or consumer craving. It might even mean a stone cut to the shape of a company logo. Lili Diamonds also

provides its customers with matching pairs and layouts, designed to be inlaid into rings, necklaces and bracelets – theseries of diamonds will be of matching carat weight, colour, clarity and cut, all perfectlycomplementing one another.

It was in response to customer demandthat in 2002 Lili Diamonds expanded itsworld to incorporate diamond jewellery and timepieces. It began in a modest waybut today has grown to become a major partof the whole business. With designers in HongKong and New York – working to create for different global aesthetic sensibilities and cultural preferences – Lili Jewelry®

unveils new collections throughout the year,including high-end pieces specifically for theelite luxury market.

Gemologists, stone cutters, polishers anddesigners come together to realise thedreams, no matter how fantastical, of eachclient. From design blueprint and prototype torefinements and alterations, the final designis a result of exhaustive and rigorous attentionto detail and quality control. Top quality stonesare cherry-picked by Lili Diamonds and twofurther special cuts, which are exclusive to and

sold through the Lili Jewelry brand only – LilyCut® and Orchidea®Cut easily recognisablethanks to their four petals – are added to the array of diamonds from which the fashion-led, statement jewellery pieces arecreated… as well as the more classic stylesand bridal jewellery.

Ask Nadav Attar what the best way to selldiamonds is and he replies, without hesitation:“Marketing, marketing and marketing – youneed to sell the dream.” As we go to press,a quick peek at its Facebook page indicatesthat 7,430 people ‘like’ what they see – andthat’s just two months after launching. Thestellar stratagem appears to be working.www.lilidiamonds.com www.lilijewelry.com

The Meteor Cut®

| Opinion: John Henn


Tuesday the 9th of August dawned likeany other. Amélie, our 17 month old

daughter, grabbed my legs as we werepreparing for nursery, leaving a trail from herwet nose across my just dry-cleanedtrousers. Unusually I had my classic MGAbooked in for a MOT in the afternoon…

There was trouble in London and we hadseen the carpet store go up in smoke –miraculously not killing anybody. Our storehad opened as usual when soon after anundercover policeman came in to talk to me.“We are expecting ‘trouble at mill’,” he said,“and we would like you to take ‘appropriateprecautions’. By the way, we know about‘SaferGems’ but our man is away and weare not sure what to do.” “So is mine,” I said,“but I’ll work it out and pass it on straightaway to everyone who may be affected.”

I passed the warning on to SaferGemsand it seemed the clock was ticking. A callcame in from my part-time secretary whowas on her way home – ASDA was beingattacked and a mob was on the move upinto the city. That gave us around 20 minutesbefore they arrived at Princess Street.

At 3pm five of us left the store on herown. She had survived since 1935 in hercurrent state, and the street had seen riotvans before during the 1970s and 80s.

There was a sense of real dread about the streets and I was considering whether ornot to run the gauntlet of the ring road in anopen-topped very shiny classic sports car. I drove out of the city to my MOT station;she passed the test and we went home totune into the local media.

The videos on the networks during thenight were crazy. Two small streets next toours were on everywhere – we’ve all seenthe footage! Although we have an elevatedCCTV camera overlooking us, the policewere not willing or able to give any news.Finally we received a call that confirmed thestore had been attacked but there was noevidence anyone had effected an entry. We went to sleep relieved.

The old girl had stood firm in the face of adetermined, if pointless, assault. Had moreeffort been directed at one particular pointthe outcome may have been different, butas it was the 11.5mm laminated banditglass had done its job. Several thousandpounds and a quantity of mascara and shewould be her old self again. Was it all over?The authorities could not be sure so upwent the wood.

Wednesday the 10th of August was quiteeventful. Once we’d established that thebroom-wielding mob walking towards us

were the clean-up squad, and not the second wave, the refreshments arrived!Bottles of water, cakes, biscuits and chocolates were brought in by well-wishersand clients alike. Next I was shaking hands with the Mayor of Wolverhampton –alarmingly he wasn’t letting go until the local paper had the best shot. He promisedthat his office would help with any requestsfor help I could think of. For starters I wasconsidering those planners who’d turneddown my application for a full shutteredfrontage four years earlier. I’d like to meetthem outside my store at noon, pens drawn.

Next in was our local MP – he was alsovery sympathetic and explained that a VVIPmight be coming to the city later in the dayand would I be free to meet him? I couldnot remember who he was batting for, butagreed anyway. So later that day I andanother dozen or so retailers, big and small,found ourselves shaking hands with the PMhimself. What a delightful and immenselyskilled man! He recapped his day so far,who he had met and what he had learnt.

Frankly he must have started at dawn andnot stopped since and it was only 2.30pm.After us he was off to meet the parents ofthe three dead young men in Birmingham.

Mr Cameron summarised what we had discussed and, after promising to bring upour points in ’the house’ the next day, he was gone. True to his word ’planningobstructions for security shuttering in citieslike Wolverhampton should be looked at for high risk businesses’ was reported fromparliament the very next morning.

So ended quite an extraordinary day. Weleft at 5.30 with the last piece of woodscrewed into place over the entrance. As Itype this I am pleased to report the make-upcase has been put away for another day andthe quotations for external shutters with the’cyanide rain’ feature (I’m joking… or am I?)are dropping on my desk.

24 hours in retailRecalling the traumatic effects of the riots and meeting the PM

H.W. Tankel (Scotland) Ltd, 33A Gordon Street, Glasgow G1 3PFTel 0141 226 2200 • Fax 0141 221 3040 • Email: [email protected]

www.tankel.co.uk

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There was plenty to see at this year’sInternational Jewellery London which

took place from 4th – 8th September atEarls Court Two. The show, which enjoyed atwo per cent increase in numbers on 2010,had a fresh look and some new attractions.The format for the fashion shows hadchanged to feature a catwalk that ran theentire length of the central aisle. Models,wearing eye-catching jewellery and notmuch else, strutted their stuff to loud musicseveral times a day, while the on-going programme of seminars in the newly createdtheatre at the back of the hall featured interesting topics and added gravitas.

So what took my eye? There seemed tome to be several trends coming throughstrongly. Black is undoubtedly the new blackand whether it was Whitby jet mixed withgold and diamonds from C W Sellors;Alexander Davis’s Dendritic carbon fibre,shiny, black cuff with silver and gold-platedspheres or Shaun Leane’s iconic ‘Blackthorn’collection featuring dark pearls and blackspinel set in silver, it demanded attention.Still on the black theme, oxidised silver was ubiquitous, with LA10 using it to effect across its ranges. It also looked goodwhen mixed with silver and 22ct gold vermeil by Kokkino. Blackened 18ct gold

was the feature of Fiore della Notte, a newcollaboration between Jersey Pearl anddesigner Annaloucah.

Dome-shaped rings were de rigeur andbrightly-coloured cabochon stones featuredin many new collections. Domino’s‘Sassolini’ range in yellow gold has beendesigned to stack and at retail prices around£300, to bring precious jewellery to ayounger audience. At the other end of theprice spectrum, Andrew Geoghegan’s wonderfully asymmetric ‘Satellite’ cocktailrings with their open shanks and diamonddetails were pure sophistication. Also domedwas the prize-winning ‘Stardust Collection’from Jian, which scooped the technicalinnovation award at the show. The best wayto describe this concept is to imagine achild’s ‘snow shaker’ toy but to substitutethe ‘snow’ for precious stones floating in a liquid filled sapphire dome to provide continual movement and sparkle. A greatselling point for retailers is that the ‘domes’(the most costly part of the concept) can be screwed onto different-sized ring shanksfor efficient stock control.

Platinum was much in evidence. Thestunning pieces that won the Lonmin sponsored Design Innovation Awards wereon display on the Johnson Matthey standwith no fewer than four of the eight winningdesigns coming from BJA members. It wasalso BJA members, Sarah Jordan, Dennis &Lavery and Fei Lui, who triumphed in thePGI’s Platinum Trail at the show.

Another trend spotted throughout the showwas for the weird and whacky. Birminghamcufflink producer Deakin & Francis was inundated with enquiries for its recentlylaunched ‘Eccentric Collection’ of silver andenamel cufflinks featuring everything from

ShowstoppersThe BJA’s familiar, purple unicorn logo was much on evidenceon stands at this year’s IJL. Mary Brittain sought out those displaying it to discover what the Association’s many memberswho were exhibiting at the fair had on offer.

it D

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onds

Deakin & Francis


BJA Feature |

chilli peppers and bananas through toshrimps and handguns. If it’s quirky youwant, then jewellery doesn’t come muchfunkier than that produced by Jianhuiwhose stand was also sporting chilli-inspireddesigns in brightly coloured glass. Also a littleoff-the-wall – unless that is you are a fan of mega-popular computer phenomena – is The Sims 3™, Jeremy Hoye’s new collection based on the ‘Plumbob’, the virtualgreen stone which is central to this game.

New to IJL and great value was ITDiamonds, a cleverly packaged and marketedrhodium-plated brass alloy collection withdiamond accents from Nathan & Stock. Alsonew and competitively priced was OSO (OneSeason Only) from Paul Kennedy. As thename suggests this is a high fashion range,in various materials, which will be changedtwice yearly to meet the latest fashion trends.Buy while you can…

Those looking for the innovative, werenaturally drawn to the KickStart stand, sponsored by IJL and organised by the BJA.The stand is now in its third year and is aproven launch pad for new talent as provenby the growing number of ex-KickStartersexhibiting solo at the show. These included

Alexander Simpson, Daisy Knight andMomocreatura to name but a few.

Of course IJL is not just about jewelleryand the BJA had many members providingnew products and services to jewellery producers. Sutton Tools was offering twoexclusive new implements from the USA –a saw and an anticlastic raising stake – while

GemVision, suppliers of CAD jewellery solutions, showcased ‘Counter Sketch’ adesign tool for retailers to use in store whichallows them not only to create bespokewedding jewellery designs for their customers,but also to have them manufactured forthem by the US jewellery giant Stuller.

“Feedback from our members followingany show is always a little mixed,” says theBJA’s marketing manager, Lindsey Straughton,“but I am pleased to say that most of those towhom I spoke seemed to have had goodtrading at IJL. The KickStart Designers debutedwell, which was unsurprising as between themthey had produced real showstoppers.”

BJA members setting the trends at IJL...it Diamonds (main picture opposite page)offers 36 designs in rhodium-plated brassalloy with diamond accents. RRPs £25-50

New at the show… Domed

Another newcomer

‘Stardust Collection’ from Jian is available insterling silver, 18ct gold or platinum withsemi-precious stones, diamonds, rubies orsapphires. RRPs from £195 (silver) to£12,495 (18ct and 3cts of diamonds).

OSO – a versatile collection from PaulKennedy that combines sterling silver withcrystal and coloured cords – the coloursvarying according to the story. The Glaciercollection consists of organic shapes, somesolid, some open. RRP £110

‘Knew Concepts’ lightweight, anodised aluminium saw in various sizes from SuttonTools. Prices from £31.50 - £45 +VAT.

Practical

Black is undoubtedly the new black and, whether it wasWhitby jet mixed with gold and diamonds or dark pearls and black spinel set in silver, it demanded attention.

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| BJA Feature


Below: Interchangeable Cross Heart pendantin 9ct gold and Whitby jet from W Hammond,part of C W Sellors group.

Right: Fiore della Notte is the fleur-de-lys inspired collection by Jersey Pearl in collaboration withAnnaloucah featuring 18ct blackened gold, Akoya pearlsand fairmined Tanzananian rubies. RRP £1,500-£3,500

Above: Ruthenium plated silver ring and plain silver ring with pearls from the LA10 Collection byCeltic Art. Trade prices are £88.50 (plated) and £60unplated.

Back to black

The icing on the cake of ‘a hugely successfulshow’ for Dennis & Lavery was winning notone but two Platinum Trail awards: the BestCommercial Design for the Vortex tri-setshown here and Retailers’ Choice Award forBest Platinum Experience RRP Tri-set£1,980 - £2760

Prize winning

Sarah Jordan’s award-winning platinumOasis Rings with 0.52ct brilliant cut diamond.RRP £5,250

Rising TalentSpirit is the name of Alexandra Simpson’snew collection of necklaces, earrings andother pieces that centre around a three-petal sterling silver flower. It is set with atanzanite stone and a tear drop freshwaterpearl swings below. RRP: £32 - £5,000

A small selection of the many silver andenamel cufflink designs by Deakin & FrancisRRPs up to approx £300.

Whacky

One of the greatest marketing tools inthe corporate armoury is the phrase

‘public opinion’. The cynic in me believesthat a small groundswell of consumer reaction can be manipulated to then represent mainstream thought, which ofcourse can never be supported by empiricalevidence. And this, in my opinion, is what theUK jewellery industry will shortly be subjectto in the matters of ethical sourcing; withjewellery businesses increasingly having toprovide evidence of sustainable corporatesocial responsibility practices.

In the UK, we are experiencing a gentlegroundswell of increasing consumer demandfor ethically sourced jewellery products. Atthe other end of the supply chain, the aspiringdesigner makers are earnestly bringing ethically produced products to market, thusmeeting consumer demand, albeit at theniche, higher reaches of the jewellery market.

My question is: what is the jewelleryindustry going to do when consumer demandfor ethical products goes mainstream andforward-looking manufacturers cite ‘publicopinion’ as their modus operandi for bringing

such products to market? Where will theindustry then stand?

Most recently, I was approached by a newUK supplier who aims to take ethicallysourced jewellery to the mass market. It won’tbe long before others follow.

As a pragmatist and marketer, I applaudthe supply of product to meet consumerdemand. My biggest fear however is that asan industry we are not ready to provide aunited front on the moves we are making to demonstrate that the traceability in the

supply chain is transparent. Just take a look at the foodstuffs and cotton industries.Does the jewellery supply chain offer anysimilar consumer assurances in the exactprovenance of the product?

And behind all of this concern is that toomuch knowledge is probably a dangerousthing. Does the consumer for example needto know of the workings of the KimberleyProcess and the inter-country disagree-ments? I would argue not. All the consumerneeds to know is that the diamond they buymeets all of their aspirational, aesthetic andhumanitarian needs. The question is howdo we meet those needs?

As a mature jewellery market, the UK isfacing many challenges – none more sothan economic pressures and the rising costof raw materials. As the momentumtowards ethically sourced jewellery increas-es, we as an industry must be responsiblefor constantly adding value to our products.Just imagine for a moment that you are aretailer whose USP is that you can absolutelyconclusively demonstrate to every consumerthe provenance of every item you sell.

What a great sales pitch that would be! If this industry is to survive and grow that’sexactly the information we all need to betelling our customers.

In the BJA’s attempt to address this issue,a small working party has been formed with the NAG to firstly understand the issuesand then work with UK industry to provideconstructive trade and consumer guidance.

Meeting recently with a group of NGOsdemonstrated two key requirements – wewere prepared to engage and have dialogue.

It was apparent that the issues faced by the jewellery industry are not unique andhave been solved by other industries. Thechallenge is to find like for like comparisonsand propose change on that basis.

Our main question to them all was verystraightforward – if you represented the UKjewellery industry, what would you do toeffect change?

Their feedback included the requirementsfor us to understand what is currently going on in the international markets regarding raising standards, traceability and transparency. We were advised to

understand the implications of the DoddsFrank Act, the new European version currently in discussions, the workings of theBristol Bay initiative, the Fairtrade/Fairminedgold supply chain, the IRMA initiatives, thenew OECD regulations, the workings of theRJC, CIBJO guidelines in addition to manymore sources of information.

The key pieces of advice resulting from ourmeeting were not to be overly ambitious,and to understand where the gaps are inthe current initiatives. Taking this advice hasled us to conclude that we are all in this forthe long haul. However, our short termobjective is to provide clear and conciseindustry guidance notes. In other words,providing qualitative and sufficient empiricalevidence for valued and informed opinionsto be made.

Simon says!BJA CEO Simon Rainer looks at how ethical practices can beachievable if those in the jewellery industry work together


BJA Feature |

Just imagine for a moment that you are a retailer whose USP is that you can absolutely conclusively demonstrate to every consumer the provenance of every item you sell.What a great sales pitch that would be!

| BJA Feature


Christmas SparkleAdd a touch of dazzling glamour to your Christmas offer with thisselection of beautiful pieces from BJA members.

MiripuriMirroring the flamboyant plumage of theexotic Bird of Paradise, the Paradiso collectioncaptures the dramatic spread of its elongatedtail feathers. Each sterling silver piece isavailable in either a plain style or inset withfaceted marquise gemstones. www.miripurijewellery.com

Arabel LebrusanSpanish-born Arabel fuses traditional artistry with modern design and sustainablepractices. This Diamond Leaf flower ring is made in 18ct recycled white gold and setwith 1.1ct VVS diamonds that catch thelight from all directions.www.arabellebrusan.com

Sho Fine JewelleryThe motivation for Sarah Ho’s coin collectionwas the ancient Chinese coin which wassaid to bring fortune and success. Each yearSarah’s grandfather would give her such acoin. The Coin Boule rings are in 18ct goldand set with white and cognac diamondswith pink sapphires or blue and yellow sapphires and tsavorites.www.shojewellery.com

JianhuiThis Crystal collection from Chinese-born,London-based designer Jianhui comprisesretro-style cluster clip-on earrings, snakebracelet and choker with cubic zirconiaflowers. www.jianhui.co.uk

MischaCreated in tribute to Vincent van Gogh andinspired by his Starry Night paintings isMischa's luxury Statement Ring Collection,which is available in 18ct rose or yellowgold vermeil or sterling silver and set withgemstones. www.mischa.co.uk

Germes Designer Saveria Geronimi’s Crystalis collection is hand-made from silver and features a slave bracelet with Swarovki crystal ball (available in white or black) witha chain connected to a silver band ring.www.germesboutique.com

Tomasz DonocikAward-winning fine jewellery designer TomaszDonocik is inspired by the sinister side ofnatural beauty – as witnessed by the venusfly trap for instance. This Venus Bombayring is in 18ct rose gold set with tsavorite.www.tomaszdonocik.com

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Diamonds – assought-after as ever,regardless of price.But clever design,canny marketing,thorough knowledgeand plenty of passion are everything, discoversBelinda Morris

Saying it with

Image courtesy of Domino


It would seem these days that diamondsare never out of the news. Of course, in

terms of our own industry news that is justas it ought to be and it has always been thecase. However, just recently they’re findingtheir way onto the pages of the nationals –the upcoming Christie’s sale of ElizabethTaylor’s stupendous collection of stonkinggreat diamond-set pieces is one such snippetthat has grabbed the public’s attention. Andwe can gasp in amazement at the Bulgariwhite and blue diamond ring that sold atBonhams last month for a whopping£1.9million (recession? what recession?).How about the recent discovery of a planetmade of diamond, a mere 4,000 light yearsaway? Then there’s De Beers taking its leaveof Hatton Garden – that somewhat more

sobering story warranted a full page in theMail on Sunday recently. The spectre of so-called blood diamonds – an ongoing issue– can also be relied upon to rise up in thepress from time to time.

What is the big diamond story from ourtrade’s perspective though? If we take thequestion of ethics as a given, what are theelements that are driving the market at themoment? Are diamonds (at any price) still a girl – and a jeweller’s – best friend?

Is the price right?Whichever way they move, the price of diamonds is certainly a challenge for theindustry. At a seminar during IJL, Edahn Golan,editor of Idex Online (which examines theprices of both rough and polished stones)put the recent fall in prices of rough into

chronological perspective. He reminded usthat after the sharp fall in 2009, there was asteep recovery in 2010, leading to a bigspike in May this year.

External factors like booms and recessionsplay their part, he added, but internal ones– like trade shows – also have their effect:prices spike before every one; recently seenin Hong Kong, Basel and Las Vegas, This isbecause diamonds are purchased in largeamounts to prepare for fairs, which leads toincreased optimism for sellers. Prices usuallyfall again post-show. It should also be notedthat below two carats diamond prices arefairly static.

Supply and demand are of course huge factors when it comes to the price ofdiamonds. Martin Rapaport, chairman of theRapaport Group, who also gave a diamondindustry talk during IJL, explained that whilediamond supply is relatively stable at themoment, “demand is shifting geographically,economically, generationally, and sociallytowards the Far East and a younger market”.Golan agrees, pointing out that in China 80 per cent of brides last year received adiamond set wedding ring – a trend thatbegan in Shanghai. In India good rains haveled to a lot of disposable income so evenmore gold and diamonds are being boughtfor weddings. Even in Japan, which has suffered more than its fair share of disastersthis year, sales of diamonds through depart-ment stores have risen over five per cent.

Added to this is the fact that no new diamond mines have been discovered

recently – so no new sources of diamondsin the next decade – prices are sure toincrease further, despite having decreasedrecently, is Golan’s view. During IJL I spoketo some of the exhibiting diamond and diamond jewellery suppliers. Price was certainly a recurring topic for discusion.

“There’s confusion for retailers becauseof so much volatility,” says Sakait Kedia,managing director of SK Diamonds. “Sopeople are buying what they need – independents still have to do business.”

“It’s a highly price-sensitive market.Retailers want a diamond quality that hits acommercially-viable retail price,” explains

Tony Tankel of HW Tankel. “It has to be –and be perceived to be – excellent value formoney. Two, three, four years ago the designof the ring was more important than the diamond itself. Now that has flipped; nowit’s more about the price. Customers arelooking for value and then juggle the rest –like the quality of the stone, which has tolook right to the end-user,” he adds. “Thoseretailers who are being flexible with marginsare doing considerably better – especially ifthey are trying to compete with the internet.A diamond has to be a commodity – inter-esting and beautiful – but still a commodity.We have to earn a living.”

“As the prices soar, jewellery aimed at certain price brackets has now been pushedinto a higher category and not everyonesees the value,” adds Ariel Tivon of TivonFine Jewellery. “The problem is that we mostoften judge – physically and psychologically

Diamond Feature |

“A diamond has to be a commodity – interesting and beautiful– but still a commodity. We have to earn a living…”

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Corona

Saint Maurice

SHO Fine Jewellery

– with our eyes and a small jewellery itemmay now appear to be very expensive inrelation to its physical size, thanks to thesum of its parts, i.e. very high gold and diamond prices.”

Nor is the niche, bespoke designer end ofthe market immune to the effects of soaringcosts. “The rise in polished prices has been phenomenal and together with thecontinuing surge in gold and platinumprices we are having to be very ‘thoughtful’with our prices,” says jeweller Nicholas James.“We have decided that we won’t water downour ranges by trying to make lighter designs aswe have spent 15 years gaining a reputationfor offering substantial and weighty pieces,so we have to strategise our pricing a littlemore. These are challenging times and yes,there has been a negative impact on businessas a result of climbing prices. It is hard toexplain how, in some cases, the price of adiamond has risen 40 per cent in six weeks!

“However, with the exception of gold(which I personally think will continue toclimb in price), things will settle; these higherprices will remain and the consumer willregain confidence and start to buy with a little less caution than we are seeing now.

It must be unnerving for customers to seethese continual price rises and it has putpeople off buying as they see instability andthis in turn leads to a lack of trust in thevalue of the product. All we can do is explainthe situation and if anything, try to ‘flip’ it by saying if prices continue rising, then nowis a good time to buy. And even this monthwe have seen signs that people are puttingtheir worries to one side and buying again,”he adds.

When it comes to design, a certain amountof fine-tuning might have to come into play;a few tweaks to help bring down costs ormaybe a whole new line that incorporatessmaller stones or finer details. “Our clientsare not by any means all so rich that price isimmaterial, that’s only a few oligarchs and


You don’t need to be reminded of thefour Cs or how a diamond is a symbolof everlasting love, so here are a fewrandom facts about the stone – takenfrom the new De Beers Jewellery book– that you (and your customers) maynot have been aware of:• Traditionally, in India, a jeweller working

with diamonds often lived at court andwas considered as important as aphysician or astrologer.

• The earliest diamonds known to manwere discovered in Golconda, India,where the deep, diamond-carpetedpits were said to be guarded by snakes,so miners sent birds down to pick up the diamonds.

• Hindus in those early times believedthat diamonds were created whenlightening bolts struck rocks.

• The ancient belief was that Cupid’sarrows were tipped with diamonds.

• Astrologically, diamonds were associated with sacred moonlight;they were worn in battle as a symbolof courage and virtue, to imbue thewearer with magical strength and also,more practically, to deflect blows.

• Diamond roughs became widely usedin rings in the Roman period whenthey were prized for their supernaturalpowers of bravery and strength, andtheir ability to triumph over life’s tribulations.

• Agnès Sorel, the beautiful but low-born favourite mistress of Charles VIIof France, is reputed to have beenthe first commoner to wear diamonds.

• The catch phrase ‘A Diamond isForever’ was dreamt up in 1947 byone Frances Gerety, a young NewYork agency copywriter.

• A 13th century text stated that if awoman was incensed by her hus-band, relations would be soothed ifshe wore a diamond!

• René Just Hauy, famous mineralogistwrote in 1817: ‘gemstones are theflowers of the mineral world and thefancy coloured diamond is the orchid’.

• For every natural coloured diamondthere are some 10,000 colourlessspecimens

Diamond Pointers

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Gemex

PJ Watson

Jig Pattni


the whole of Bond Street is trying to seducethem at the same time,” says StephenWebster. “We have however designed acompletely new core collection that looksvery contemporary, still with a SW edge buthas a more open, delicate feel. I have alwaysrefused to dumb down the design.”

Carli Onguc of online retail jewellery business Diamonds & Rings has noticed thatcustomers are opting for lower diamondcolour and clarities, while still being able toachieve their desired carat weight for budget.It’s a trend that Tim Sebrechts at 5C has alsonoticed – “an echo of three years ago whengold prices led to customers asking for verylightweight items. These days nothing is

‘cheap’ in diamond jewellery, even in the‘first price’ segment,” he says.

“Because of the economy people arebeing forced to be more creative – so perhaps they’re considering more smaller,maybe pavé stones,” says jewellery designerAlexander Davis. “But they still wantbespoke and an engagement ring shouldn’tbe skimped on. Compared to what else isspent on a wedding it’s good value!”

The cuts aboveThe price of diamonds not only has animpact on the quality of stones retailers andconsumers are choosing, but also the shape.While round stones are undoubtedly thebiggest sellers – always were, always will be– the fact that prices of these have risen

much more than fancy cuts, has meant thatfor some fancies are enjoying something ofa moment. “For the same quality you canget quite a bit bigger fancy cut – square arevery much in fashion, as well as pear andheart shapes,” says Ricky Krochmal ofKrochmal & Lieber.

Neil Josyfon of Josyfon agrees that priceis influencing cut. “It’s been all about roundsbut for fashion pieces in particular, the difference in price between rounds and fancies has made fancies more popular;people are looking at other options – likecushions,” he says. “What’s most importantis that the stone is nicely manufactured – I physically go to the market and choose it.”

Gemex also sell more rounds than anyother shape, closely followed by princesscuts. “But all our stones are so well calibrated,which means that straight-edged baguettesare selling very well,” adds Lee Ruben ofGemex, “and we also do a lot of marquise,emerald and carré.”

Creators of bespoke jewellery, particularlythe more avante garde jewellers, find thattheir customers are more adventurous withtheir choice of diamond shapes. “Peoplewant more design from me, they’re notlooking for standard,” confirms Davis. “Theytend to be open-minded about the shape ofa stone. If they don’t go for rounds – whichcarry a premium – they can get bigger for

their money. I love cushion shapes for moststones.” At Nicholas James, while round brilliants are the popular ‘safe’ choice, they’reseeing “a huge surge in demand for fancyshapes – pear and marquise in particular.”

“We still find that a colourless round brilliantcut is an extremely popular and classic choice;however we are noticing a move towardssome other cuts from our clients,” adds NickyGoodman of Goodman Morris. “Rose andold cuts seem to sit well with the slightly more‘boho’ and vintage looks that are emerging.I find myself wondering if their more subtletwinkle as opposed to the brilliant cut’s obvious fiery sparkle is a reflection of amood of understatement. A move againstconspicuous consumption and ostentationin these financially uncertain times; almost a‘stealth wealth’ thing perhaps.”

“The cut that will make or break a diamond and creates thedifference between something that is ordinary and a diamondthat can take your breath away”

| Diamond Feature

Stubbs & Co

London Road

Goodman Morris

The four Cs and thequestion of certsThe fact that the ‘four Cs’ are what contributeto the value and look of a diamond isunquestioned and some would argue thatall are as important as each other. Facedwith plumping for just one and you will find that there are those happy to stick theirnecks out.

“If all else is equal my preference leanstowards cut,” says Jon Phillips of Corona.The true beauty of a diamond can only be released when a diamond is cut to maximise brilliance, fire and scintillation.”Designer John Calleija agrees. “The cut isalways going to be the most important – agood cut will always make the diamonddance with light and beauty. It is really thecut that will make or break a diamond andcreates the difference between somethingthat is ordinary and a diamond that can

take your breath away.” At London jewellersW&W it is also cut that is most important totheir clients, but owner Richard Warrenderwould add C for Client’s specifications andC for Cost – the budget in mind – to thegrading system.

“Most stones are pretty well cut, that’s parfor the course – for me colour is the mostimportant – more than clarity,” argues Davis.“With ratings clarity is a matter of opinionand people have preferences, but colour isvery fixed and can be judged accurately.Most people can’t afford a D flawless, but with a DSI1 you can get a good stone,the flaws can’t be seen and you can’t get abetter colour. Brides want perfection.”

“The quality of the cut, the way it’s cutand the life of the stone once cut is of

paramount importance”, says Paul Spurgeon.”My favourite cut of diamond is the marquiseas it lends itself perfectly to the fluidity ofmy designs.”

“The cut and shape are most important –it doesn’t matter how high or low thecolour,” insists Josyfon. “People read somuch on the internet and get so wound upabout it. When it gets so technical thatshould be left to the professional – andeven then I look at the diamond, not thetable, particularly with fancies. A certificatewont tell you if a diamond is brown forinstance.” He does however feel that certificates are important. “I don’t see it as a problem that there are different standardsof certificates – as long as one is aware andit is priced accordingly.”


Diamond Feature |

• Take the client’s budget, advise on the stone, colour clarity and size etc.; give them options and let themdecide which path they wish to follow(Nick Aris, Majestic Jewellery)

• Honesty and value are key in forminga close and trusting relationship withyour client (Richard Warrender, W&W)

• Don’t stretch the truth – the financialincentive to exaggerate the quality of a jewellery product can be significant(Jon Phillips, Corona Jewellery)

• You have to really work with the fantastic stories that diamonds have in jewellery. Also, demonstrate the difference between a piece that has a beautiful stone versus one without(Stephen Webster)

• If there’s a story to tell it’s importantthat the retailer and staff understandthe brand and its values, as this will help to sell a piece (Sarah Ho, Sho Fine Jewellery)

• Enthuse the customer on the designof the ring and the designer if possible– how the designer personally selectsthe stone. Hook them with a ‘story’(Andrew Geoghegan)

• Understand the customer’s needs andthen match the ideal stone to theirpersonality – some might prefer a largerstone to a quality one (Jig Pattni)

• Focus on the beauty of the piece

that the customer is trying on – it isstill, primarily, an emotional purchase(David Shem-Tov, Stubbs & Co)

• Sell the individual diamond, not the certificate. If the diamond looks stunning then the certificate meansnothing (Phillip Beale, Charles Green)

• Explain the four Cs to help the buyingprocess and show how you can ‘tradeoff’ one C against another and stillhave a beautiful stone (Russell Shor, GIA)

• If the retailer understands and canexplain why two stones can look similar but differ a lot in price he can win the trust of the customer (Tim Sebrechts, 5C Jewelry)

• Take a diamond course – you need tobe a pro today to guide the customer,particularly in the face of internet information… and misinformation(Ricky Krochmal, Krochmal & Lieber)

• Share your knowledge and passion,and take your time. Customers needto feel confident that they are makinginformed choices (Nicky Goodman, Goodman Morris)

• Follow up the sale – for instance apersonal note card of appreciation, or a phone call or even flowers –great for repeat business and creating customer loyalty (Jon Phillips, Corona Jewellery)

A few tips for selling diamond jewellery…Designers and manufacturers offer a few helpful hints on how to make that sale

�

Fei Liu

Lalique

Launched on 15th September and responding to industry demand, the IDEXDiamond Price Report is now being published weekly.

“What is perfect about our price report is that it takes hundreds of thousands of data points from thousands of industry players, and appliesstandard statistical tools to generate the report. It is driven solely by objective and consistent methodologies,” says Ehud Cohen, chairman ofIDEX Online. “Objectivity and transparency in the diamond industry has alwaysbeen one of IDEX’s core values. It is high time the industry received a price tool that reflectsthe market objectively. We look forward to continuing to answer our customers’ needs.”

Intended as a guideline and available only to diamond-industry professionals, the reportincludes rounds and fancies, ranging in sizes from 0.18 carats to 5.99 carats. It will beavailable at www.idexonline.com/prices and will be inside IDEX Magazine starting with the November issue.

“Certificates have become more andmore important because consumers havebecome a lot more savvy,” says Lee Ruben. “It’s so easy to go online and Google‘diamonds’ that people think they’re expertsafter ten minutes. A verbal answer isn’tenough, now they want it on paper, so acertificate really helps retailers with sales.”

Jeweller Jig Pattni agrees. “A certificate isreassuring to the customer – okay it affectsthe profit margin but it also wins trust. When selling a diamond I also mention thata certificate is like a great CV – but you needto meet the diamond to see if it’s the rightstone for you.”

There are those who are in two minds on the question of certificates. “It really

undermines the age-old tradition of trust,”says Paul Spurgeon. “For some reason apiece of paper seems to be more importantthan the actual beauty and individual characteristics of a diamond and being able to recognise these characteristics. Eventhe top three labs vary with their results.” In the view of Ariel Tivon a certificate is “asleep-safe factor, particularly with prices flying so high. But I believe people – consumers and the trade – at times put toomuch value in it. Remember, the certificateis only an opinion. A good opinion but stillan opinion,” he adds.

Ethical optionsThe issue of diamonds from Zimbabwenotwithstanding (for Greg Valerio’s view onthis turn to page 34) it goes without sayingthat the majority of diamond jewellery manufacturers and designers are at pains toemphasise that the stones they buy aresourced with the utmost care and attentionvis a vis traceability; their ethical credentialsunimpeachable.

So, trusting your own supplier aside, whatother safeguards are available to retailerswishing to reassure customers?

“It’s not possible to be one hundred percent precise on the origins of rough diamonds,other than goods purchased from Russia orthose bought with a Canadian certificateand mark on the girdle,” explains jewellerPaul Spurgeon. An example of the latter mightbe Canadian-mined Maple Leaf Diamondswhich are set in Corona Jewellery. The company also belongs to the ResponsibleJewellery Council, which adds further weightto its ethical credentails.

Not widely available as yet, but nowappearing on the horizon, are recycled diamonds. On the back of recent high pricesof gold, metal recycling has become bigbusiness in most parts of the world. However,recycling diamonds is a more complex business – there are difficulties associatedwith correctly grading, sorting and recuttingnumerous small separate stones.

Undaunted by such obstacles New York-based White Pine Diamonds, launched in2009 by Oxford University geology graduateBen Burne, buys all sizes, shapes, gradesand conditions of diamonds. The businessmodel is to buy sufficient quantities ofmixed sizes and shapes to then sell them as matching parcels back into the jewellerymarket. “This would be to recycle what is

| Diamond Feature


Diamond Price Report now published weekly

�

Stephen Webster

W&W

Calleija

Tivon

Charles Green


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estimated to be in excess of 4.5 billioncarats of jewellery-grade diamonds whichhave been cut since the first diamonds weremined in the late 1800s,” says Tim Phillips,a geology graduate colleague of Burne’s,who has recently joined the partnership.

The company is focussing on smallersizes of diamonds which have traditionallybeen lower margin and harder to re-sell intothe market. And as well as white diamonds,black, brown, yellow and artificially coloureddiamonds will also be bought and sold. Thesources for their stones are varied: excessstock, scrap and broken stones from jewellerymanufacturers and left-over pulled stonesfrom gold recycling or pawnbroking.“Despite the barriers to the recycled trade indiamonds, we feel that being an earlymover into this side of the market will putus in a good position for an inevitable transition by consumers towards more environmentally-responsible and ethically-sourced jewellery,” says Phillips.

Diamond trends…It’s taken as read that rounds are far andaway the most popular stones and that forwedding jewellery in particular white metal– OK, platinum – is the main choice formounts, but that isn’t to say that diamondtrends are static and safe. Especially so inthe case of fashion. Rose and yellow

gold are increasingly chosen for diamondset fashion pieces by the likes of Domino,which is also seeing a demand for vintage-look Ascher, emerald and princesscut stones and Nicholas James where rosegold and brown diamonds makes for a winning combination.

“We have noticed two distinct trend directions,” says Nicky Goodman. “There’s a look that could loosely be described ascontemporary classics, where brilliant cutscome into their own – clean, modern,streamlined designs, often with strong, simplegraphic shapes, defined and highlighted bypavé set diamonds, for example our pavé setwave rings and the egg link or ovoid bangle.”

Goodman Morris’ other strong story is thevintage/boho look. “Many of our customersare choosing coloured stones, from warmyellows, sophisticated and subtle champagnesthrough to richly toned chocolate brownstones,” explains Goodman. “We contrastthese with textured and coloured metals;

lots of beaten andbuffed 18ct yellowand red gold. Wehave a whole col-lection of rustyhammers for thatjust dug up look!”The trend towardswarmer tones ofred gold and non-rhod ium-p l a t edwhite gold set withsquare and rectan-gular stones is keyat Cox & Power.

Never seemingly out of fashion, black ismore prevalent than ever now – identifiedin a recent Rapaport Diamond Conferenceas the first of the top three current trends.Black diamonds are the stone of choice for Jig Pattni’s white gold ‘Scenes of Love’collection and at London Road the brightoffering of gem set gold jewellery has beenjoined by a very striking black diamond tasseled collection. And at Domino, the‘Trends & Fashion’ pieces now include blackdiamonds and Stephen Webster has always

championed the gothically-glamorous inkytones – as well as brown, beautifully set offby rose gold. So successful have these beenthat he is now introducing a wider range ofcoloured diamonds. Brands like Tivon andClogau and designers such as Fei Liu arepoised to add colours to their repertoire,while others like Calleija (rare pink Argyle

diamonds, from blush through to reds), Sho (pinks as well as champagne through tocognac) and 5C (all colours of the rainbowas well as black with black rhodium-platedgold) are already smitten.

| Diamond Feature


Recycling diamonds is a complex business – there are difficulties associated with correctly grading, sorting and recutting numerous small separate stones.

�

Jada

Paul Spurgeon

Cox &Power

Shawish

Target the key decisionmakers with The Jeweller!

To advertise in the magazine contact sales director Ian Francis on tel: +44 (0) 20 7613 4445 or email: [email protected]

For subscriptions call Amanda White at the NAG on tel: +44 (0) 20 7613 4445 or email: [email protected]

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Now published ten times a year it has a broader

appeal across the industry for retailers, suppliers,

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Editorial contributions from respected people in

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Diamond Feature |

…and highlights Majestic Jewellery (below)“As goldsmiths we see lots of invisibly-setjewellery come to us for stone replacementsetc. Unfortunately glue is the only option inalmost all cases,” explains Nick Aris of ArisJewellers who was so impressed with MajesticJewellery that he has become sole agent inthe UK for the brand. Launched into the UK(and Europe) at IJL last month award-winningMajestic Jewellery carries worldwide patentsfor its particular manufacture which featuresthe invisibly-set honeycomb of diamonds thatare cut so precisely that they sit perfectlytogether and are set on six sides to ensuretotal security. The effect is one single diamondset as pear, round, oval, heart, marquise andradiant shapes.

Andrew Geoghegan (below)The designer maker has turned his attentionto gents wedding rings with the launch ofthe Reveal range with its subtle sprinkling ofdiamonds and inspired by his best-sellingengagement ring. “This market has needed

a little sprucing up for a while and now that UK men are becoming a little moreadventurous in their tastes, this launch isperfectly timed,” he says.

Bonds of Union (right)With various roles at different jewelleryhouses (head gemmologist at Tiffany forexample) under his belt, Denis Bellessort haslaunched his own luxury jewellery brand –Bonds of Union. The collection of hand-madepieces, predominantly in vermeil, alsoincludes the special limited edition ‘SacredHeart’ cross pendant. In 18ct gold it features58 round brilliant-cut scintillating diamonds(a total of .58ct) that reveal a blue heart

when seen under a UV light (did you knowthat diamonds can fluoresce?). The brand’sapt slogan? ‘Say it with Diamonds’! �

Diamonds are not just the beneficiaries of great marketing over the last few generations,they are also rather remarkable stones. With ever-more discerning customers wanting

knowledge, stories and enthusiasm about gems, so retailers need to put a bit more oomphin selling diamonds than simply saying that they sparkle and quoting the tired old ‘4-Cs’mantra. Wise up, diamonds really are special, and have the credentials to prove it.

First of all, diamonds are the hardest naturally occurring material in the universe so nowonder that our word diamond derives from the ancient ‘adamas’ meaning invincible. Youcan’t get much more special than that! It is a unique gem and, more pragmatically, canonly be scratched by another diamond.

Diamonds are also the only gem that is composed of a single element – carbon. Uniqueagain! We are a carbon-based life form, so clearly affinity there… But is this too scientificto explain to your customers? Not if you do it right. Just say that their diamond is formedfrom the closest possible bond of the element that is fundamental to life itself and so diamonds can be thought of as genuinely embodying unity and closeness through eternity.Science not schmalz, well sort of.

Diamonds as a direct symbol of love might not be quite as old as some marketing suggests, but neither is this ‘love’ association just a figment of De Beers’ imagination.Diamond rings were frequently associated with engagement or betrothal rings in Victoriantimes, especially in Victorian romantic fiction. So there is genuine tradition here that couldbe tapped with the right marketing approach.

Diamonds were also a symbol of love in another way. According to one Medieval writer,if a man suspected his wife of being unfaithful he should place a diamond under her pillow as she slept. If she embraced him in her sleep his fears were unfounded, but if shetossed and turned and fell out of bed, she was indeed unfaithful. Not an easy bit of loreto use in selling, unless you boost diamond sales by providing a secret guide for womenwho are eager for a diamond and good at feigning sleep.

Of course, much comes down to price still, and price is based on those 4Cs, so you doalso need to know about colour and clarity and all that stuff. So I’ll tell you what we’ll do,email me a diamond marketing blurb (350 words max) based on the Medieval pillow testand the one we think is the cleverest or funniest will win a free place on one of Gem-A’sfamous one-day practical diamond grading seminars.

Dr Jack Ogden is Chief Executive of Gem-A, provider of internationally-renowned gemeducation. Website: www.gem-a.com Email: [email protected]

Some more diamond sales tips and a challenge from Gem-A’s Jack Ogden

Clogau Gold

| Antique Jewellery


The richest merchandise of all, and themost soveraigne commoditie throughout

the whole world, as these pearls”. So spokethe Roman encyclopaedist Pliny the elder,probably the first natural historian there everwas, in 77AD.

As has been explored previously in thesepages, pearls were the very first naturalobjects to ever be prized as gems – longbefore the South African landscape wastransformed by the discovery of diamonds,and before, even, rubies and emeralds werefirst prized by the world’s kings, queens andwealthiest citizens. Pearls would have firstbeen found off the waters of Ceylon (nowSri Lanka) and the southern tip of India, welike to think by (a very surprised) prehistoricshellfish-eating fisherman or woman. Beforetoo long pearls were objects prized by several civilisations, including the Egyptian,among whose ancient ruins and gravespearl remnants have been found. Everythingabout the pearl has been, for centuries,revered. Even pearl water was once considered to hold medicinal properties, by everyone from Roman emperors toFrench kings: Shakespeare (ever one tospot a trend) even referenced pearl (or‘union’, as pearls were often then known)water drinking in one of his best-knownworks, Hamlet.

The King shall drink to Hamlet’s better breath;An in the cup an union shall be thrown…

Just as interesting as the natural historyand life of the pearl itself, though, are theinterweaving stories of individual pearls –the biographies, if you will, of the superstarsof the pearl world.

First up is, probably unsurprisingly, theThree Brethren Jewel, one of the most celebrated jewels of the fifteenth century.

The Three BrethrenThe Three Brethren – or three brothers –

was a jewelled pendant that is one of thebest known pieces of Tudor jewellery. The‘brothers’ in the jewel’s title were formedfrom three very large, rectangular spinels orbalas rubies, spaced apart by three equallylarge pearls and with a fourth large pearldrop hanging below. Finishing off the mainbody of the pendant was a point-cut diamond

in the centre, which was produced by Louisde Berquen, the best known diamond-cutter of his time.

A quite interesting sideline to this – at leastas far as jewellery ‘geeks’ such as myself areconcerned – is that Louis de Berquen was acutter under the patronage of a man calledJacques Couer (1395 – 1456), an extremelyrich financier and diamond merchant from Bourges in central France. One of thethings that makes Couer significant is that itwas he who first popularised the wearing ofdiamonds by women at a time when dia-monds were exclusively worn by men. Hedid so by presenting diamond jewellery asgifts to the King’s mistress, Agnes Sorel, whowas consort to the then King Charles VII.

Perhaps unsurprisingly, Couer won Sorel’sadmiration and it was she who persuadedthe King to make Couer his financial adviserand Master of his Royal Mint.

In any case, this extraordinary piece ofjewellery was first recorded in an inventoryof 1419, but is thought to have dated fromthe beginning of the century and to havebeen inherited by the Duke of Burgundy,Charles the Bold (1433 – 1477) from hisfather. It seems that Charles the Bold – takingwhat many might consider a somewhat cavalier approach to jewellery security – tookthe Three Brethren, along with a secondimportant jewel known as the White Rose, into battle with him, where he lost itfighting at the Battle of Granson against theSwiss in 1476. The story has it that the jewels were looted from Charles’s tent byan opportunist soldier.

Several versions of what happened nextto the Three Brethren exist; one is that it

AntiqueJ E W E L L E R YCelebrated Pearls (part one)Of all the natural materials prized by jewellers, pearls have thelongest and arguably the most interesting history. In the first of twoarticles, Jo Young shares the biographies of some of the best-knownand most celebrated pearls the world has known.

I n a s s o c i a t i o n w i t h F e l l o w s

“

Everything about the pearlhas been, for centuries,revered. Even pearl waterwas once considered tohold medicinal properties

Queen Elizabeth Iwearing The ThreeBrethren in the famousErmine Portrait


Antique Jewellery |

was bought by Jacob Fugger of theAugsburg merchant family from theMagistrates of Berne, with Fugger’s sonnegotiating its sale to Henry VIII just beforeHenry died in 1547 and selling it ultimatelyto Edward VI in 1551. Another is thatEdward bought it himself in Antwerp. As historian Roy Strong put it in a BurlingtonMagazine article on the Three Brethren from 1966, “From 1476 until it was finallyacquired in 1551 the pendant… was the subject of various discreet and highlysecret transactions”.

What is known for sure is that the jewel wasgiven to Mary I when she married Philip II ofSpain, and later still, was worn by QueenElizabeth I. Elizabeth appears to have beenparticularly fond of the jewel, and wasdepicted wearing it in the famous ErminePortrait, which she sat for in Hatfield Houseand which was painted by the celebratedTudor miniaturist Nicholas Hilliard.

Like many an important historical jewellerypiece – their value and easy transportabilitybeing part of their appeal to ever-wary monarchs and leaders – the Three Brethrenwas pawned several times, first by Charles Iand then by his wife Henrietta Maria (alongwith several items from the English crown jewels). Remarkably, the piece wasnever ‘redeemed’ and was subsequentlysold on by the Bank of Lombardy inRotterdam. The piece was last seen in 1650in its original form.

What’s fascinating about the Three Brethren,at least from an aesthetic perspective, is that it actually was quite an ugly piece ofjewellery; though the stones and pearlswithin it were breathtaking in their size, itwas not a pretty design and it is really theamazing provenance of the Three Brethrenthat makes it so historically important.

La PeregrinaMary I, who was Queen of England from1553 to 1558, was quite a collector of valuable jewellery pieces, acquiring manysignificant gems throughout her reign, particularly from the Spanish treasury. Themost celebrated of these was called LaPeregrina (or ‘The Unconquerable’). BloodyMary as she was known – thanks to herpenchant for killing off Protestants in a brutal, coercive attempt to convert Englandback to Catholicism – apparently wore thejewel for her (somewhat disasterous) 1554wedding to Philip II, as it appears in severalpaintings of the wedding now on display inMadrid’s Prado, as well as in HamptonCourt and Winchester Cathedral.

The drop pearl necklace has a similarlylong and fascinating biography as the ThreeBrethren. Legend has it that La Peregrina wasfound by a slave pearl fisherman in Panama,who was then awarded his freedom inexchange for the priceless pearl; anotherversion of the story is that it was found inVenezuela, where Chistopher Columbushad been the first European to discoverpearl fisheries in 1498. In any case, thepearl found its way to Europe where it waspresented to the Spanish King Philip II byDon Diego de Temes.

When Mary Tudor died, La Peregrina wasreturned to Spain – we know this becausethe jewellery pops up in portraits of the celebrated Spanish artist Velazquez – whereit remained until 1813. That year JosephBonaparte, brother of Napoleon, took thepearl with him when fleeing Madrid for Parisafter the French defeat at the Battle of Vitoria.Having passed onto subsequent membersof the same family, La Peregrina was sold tothe Marques of Abercorn in London.

As regular readers of Antique Jewellery mayremember, La Peregrina was then sold by the Abercorns to a different characteraltogether in the shape of the actressElizabeth Taylor in 1969. At the time of the

sale, auction house Sotheby’s described thepiece (perhaps a little sparsely) as, ‘weighingapproximately 203.84 grains suspendedfrom a foliate platinum mount set withnumerous old-mine and rose diamonds’.Taylor’s then-husband Richard Burton paid$37,000 for the gem.

Joseph Bonaparte, brotherof Napoleon, took the pearlwith him when fleeingMadrid for Paris after theFrench defeat at the Battleof Vitoria

�La Peregrina

Mary I wearing the La Peregrina

Elisabeth Taylor wasLa Peregrina’s mostrecent owner

| Antique Jewellery


Following Taylor’s recent death, in Marchthis year, La Peregrina is, rather excitingly, onthe move again. In April, a month afterTaylor’s death, a UK auction house – thistime Christie’s – announced that it wouldbe holding an auction of the actress’s famedjewellery collection, which is esimated to beworth over £100m.

The collection is going on a three month-long tour around the world, starting thismonth, which will take in stops includingMoscow, London, Dubai, Geneva, Paris,Hong Kong and Los Angeles. The tour willend in New York, where the collection willtake over Christie’s entire gallery space aheadof a four day sale from 13th-16th December.

La PelegrinaOften confused with La Peregrina is a second similarly-named pearl piece, LaPelegrina. This too belonged to the SpanishCrown jewels, and was given by Philip IV tohis daughter Maria Theresa on her marriageto Louis XIV in 1660, when it went with her to France. The jewellery didn’t bringMaria Theresa much luck: her husband hada notoriously roving eye, and she was forced

to endure the indignity of a whole parade of his mistresses throughout their 23 yearmarriage. Considerably more tragic still, thecouple had five children together, only oneof whom survived into adulthood.

After Maria Therese’s death in 1683 thepearl effectively ‘disappared’ for a time. Howexactly it travelled is not known, but thepearl later turned up in Russia in the early

nineteenth century, where it is believed bysome – although, as is often the case inthese things, certainly not all – to havebelonged for some time to a pair of antiquarian brothers called the Zozinas. The brothers are said to have kept the pearlin a gold-mounted sea urchin shell, with aconvex lens over the top of it as a cover.

This pearl weighed considerably less thanLa Peregrina at just over 111 grains, but thisone is notable for being almost perfectlyspherical in shape and of a particularly highquality. What people talk about with thispearl is its lustre: it is said that, due to its silvery hue, it appears at times to be almosttransparent. La Pelegrina was later sold to aseries of Russian nobles, among them theYusopovs. During the October Revolution in1917 a large number of the family’s jewellerypieces were looted by the Bolsheviks, butfor whatever reason La Pelegrina was notamong them. Family member Prince FelixYusopov – who is best known for his part inthe murder of Rasputin – was able to holdon to the jewel and smuggle it out of Russia,not parting with it until 1953 when it wassold in Switzerland to a Geneva jeweller. �

Zinaida Yusapovawearing LaPelegrina

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| Insurance Matters


Over the last month the jewellery industryhas been rocked by both disturbing

and distressing activities caused by the riotsthroughout the country. Many businesses andindividuals have been victims of criminalityand wanton destruction.

If you have been unfortunate enough tohave suffered damage, your insurance brokerand insurance company should have beenthere to help you get back to business asfast as possible. Should such attacks takeplace in the future, it’s very important youtake action as soon as possible to get backon track.

In the immediate aftermath, it is essentialthat you notify your insurance broker orinsurer that you have suffered damage,together with the extent of this damage anda likely estimate, if possible, for the repairs.

Insurers require notification of any losswithin one week of the date the damagewas caused with a list, as accurate as possible, of the damage caused even if youdo not yet have formal written estimates orinvoices. The method of notification andsubsequent paperwork required will varyfrom insurer to insurer.

This is because under the terms of the Riot(Damages) Act 1886 insurers are able torecover their outlay for material damage andtheft, but not business interruption, from thelocal police authority. Normally they onlyhave 14 days from the date of the damage,for a written statement to be submitted.However this has now been extended to 42days – but this does not mean you shoulddefer submitting your information.

Also, you will need to distinguish betweena genuine ‘riot’, which must involve 12 ormore people involved in or threateningunlawful activity, or malicious damage, whichmay involve a smaller number of peopletaking ‘advantage’ of a current situation. In either case your insurance policy shouldcover any damage and loss suffered.

Remember that your insurance brokerand insurance company are there to help

you and work with you to enable you to getback to business as quickly as possible.

While many of you may view the purchaseof your insurance policy as an expense ‘youcould do without’, it is in times such as we’veseen over the last month that you willappreciate the peace of mind that will comewith buying the right policy, through theright insurance broker, with the right insurer.

The criminal acts witnessed during theriots only serve to remind us of the severityof crime and the danger it can be to yourbusiness. With this in mind, we need toremember there are procedures in place tofight crime; one method is SaferGems.

SaferGems, developed by the NAG and T H March in 2009, helps to address theserious crimes to which the jewellery andassociated trades are increasingly being targeted by specialist gangs and ruthlessamateurs. Unlike other security initiativesalready in place, SaferGems identifies andhelps to address the issues that contributeto serious crime by compiling a confidential,national database of incidents, crimes andsuspects.

A specialist independent team, includinga serving police officer with direct access topolice intelligence (from across the UK) co-ordinates information supplied by membersand local police forces. This in turn enablesdata to be compiled about criminal activityinvolving the jewellery trade in different policeareas, which could help lead to criminal proceedings, convictions and ultimately areduction in crime for the whole industry.

Once information is recorded and collated,alerts are sent to members on a local,regional or national basis. The alerts contain

details of criminal methods of operation andwhere possible describe criminals and suspects. Retailers therefore have uniqueinsight and positive intelligence into activecriminal threats that could affect them atany time.

SaferGems is included in as part of the T.H.March Jewellers Block policy, to find outmore visit: www.safergems.org.uk

Reading the Riot ActIn the wake of August’s riots, insurance brokers T H March offersadvice to jewellers who may have found themselves at thesharp end of events.

Under the terms of the Riot (Damages) Act 1886 insurers areable to recover their outlay for material damage and theft,but not business interruption, from the local police authority.

Now you can offer a bespoke design service for unlimit-ed choice, without the overheads of carrying high-value stock. Working with the customer, you can transform any idea or ring into that perfect piece, beautifully crafted by leading global diamantaire Stuller. Maybe it’s time to reinvent the way you do business.

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Introducing cutting-edge technology for a new era in jewellery retailing. The new Countersketch Studio Version 2.5 lets you capitalise on the trend for personalised jewellery.

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Cabinets ofCuriosities byPatrick Mauries(£29.95 Thames &Hudson)Ok, it’s not strictlyspeaking a jewelleryor gemstone book,but collectors, mag-pies, historians, art lovers and fans of theweird and wonderful will find it captivating.The author traces the history (largely 17th

century) of cabinets of curiosities – fromshelves in a small cupboard to, more often,whole rooms – they groaned with theweight of everything from the beautiful tothe downright disturbing. Arts and sciencescame together in these over flowing cabinets, which were laid out to impress,amaze and even shock viewers. Minerals inparticular were collected, for their beauty aswell as their scientific value, along withshells, gold artifacts, carved ivory and coraland small dead animals.

De Beers Jewellery text by Vivienne Becker (£100.00 Assouline – www.assouline.com)This luxuriously-presented tome not only tellsthe story of De Beers and the creation of DeBeers Diamond Jewellers in 2001, but takesus right back to the history of the gemsthemselves. Not just the science bit, but alsothe myths and legends; their discovery inSouth Africa; an explanation of the four Cs;how diamonds are cut and the unpredictablebeauty of coloured diamonds are amongthe subjects covered. Ofcourse, the major partof the book is devotedto story behind the jewellery collection; the design inspirationand creative conceptsbehind it; the purchasingexperience and the working practices of De Beers today. Go on, treat yourself!

Sales & ExhibitionsOctoberNow-8th January, 2012: Picasso to Koons:Artist as Jeweler, Museum of Arts andDesign, New YorkOver 240 one-of-a-kind or limited editionpieces created by artists not normally knownfor their jewellery – including Max Ernst,Jasper Johns and Anish Kapoor.www.madmuseum.org

November5th November-8th January: DazzleChristmas exhibition. National Theatre,South Bank, LondonParties on the opening week-end will kick off this show of designer jewellery,including new talent from among this year’s graduates.www.dazzle-exhibitions.com

18th-20th: DesireSilver Jewellery &Silversmithing Fair,The Guildhall,WinchesterAround 70 newand establishedBritish designermakers who are

working in a variety of materials, from goldand silver to bronze and copper. Ring shown by Maria Helena Spector.

19th November-1st January: DazzleChristmas exhibition. Royal ExchangeTheatre, St Anne’s Square, ManchesterContemporary jewellery fair – details as per previous listing.

24th-27th: Made in Clerkenwell: Winter Open Studios at Craft Central, 21 Clerkenwell Green, London EC1Explore the design community, watch themakers at work (ceramics, fashion and interiors as well as jewellery) and shop earlyfor Christmas. www.craftcentral.org.uk/madeinclerkenwell

Jewellery & Watch Trade FairsOctober17th-21st: JWS Abu Dhabi, Abu DhabiNational Exhibition Centre, United Arab EmiratesInternational watch and jewellery showwww.jws.ae

18th-30th: The Gemworld Munich, Neuen Messe, Munich, GermanyThe special exhibit at the international gemstone and jewellery show this year will be‘European Classics’ including the legendaryblue diamond called Wittlesbach Graff.www.gemworldmunich.com

28th-30th:Mineralientage, Neuen Messe, Munich,GermanyOn display will be min-erals, precious stones,crystals, fossils and jewellery, as well as literature and accessories.www.mineralientage.de

November10th-13th: Dubai International JewelleryWeek, Dubai World Trade CentrePrestigious watch and jewellery brandsshowing at this fair which is open to thetrade and public.www.jewelleryshow.com

24th-27th: Hong Kong Jewelry ManufacturersShow, HK Convention & Exhibition CentreDiamond, platinum and fine gold jewellery,plus pearls, jade, opals, gemstones and jewellery watches.www.jewelryshows.org

NotebookWhere to go, what to read, what to see…

Bronagh Kennedy at Winter Open Studios

Amber Jewellery Amber Jewellery

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How would you describe your personal style?Aggressively honest and transparent.

Where is your favourite holiday destination? Why?Miami Beach. I was born there.

What three words describe you best…in your view and according to others?Maverick. Out-of-the-box thinker.

Looking back at your career, what onething would you do differently if you had your time over?I would have hired more people and faster.

If you could wave a magic wand andchange one thing about the jewelleryindustry, what would it be?Fair prices and markets for artisanal diggers.

What book are you currently reading? Who Moved My Cheese? It'sa simple story aboutchange and how to dealwith it by Dr SpencerJohnson

Favourite shopping destination (shop, street, city or country)?I prefer to do my shopping online, becauseit is fast, easy, convenient and cheap.

If not the jewellery business, whatmight your career have been?I began by brokering rough and polisheddiamonds, so probably a commodities trader.

Tell us something not many peopleknow about you…I have scuba dived to depths of over 120ft.

Do you Tweet? No.

Quick fire (no deliberating)• Red or white wine? Both!• What is your favourite cut of diamond?

Round• White or yellow metal? White• TV or radio? TV• Jewellery on men? Yes or No? Yes• Delegator or control freak?

Delegator• Fish and chips or Chinese/Indian? Indian• Beatles or Rolling Stones? Beatles

Last WordThe

In this diamond-themed issue, the subject of The Last Wordis, appropriately enough, Martin Rapaport, leading diamondexpert and chairman of the Rapaport Group

Personal ProfileMartin began his career in the diamond industry in 1975 as an apprenticediamond cleaver in Antwerp. In 1978, he established the Rapaport DiamondPrice List, followed in 1980 by RapNet – Rapaport Diamond Trading Network,now the world’s largest B2B online network currently offering daily diamondlistings of over 700,000 diamonds worth over $5 billion. The Group alsoprovides diamond grading and certification services with GIA Lab Directservices and Martin is a member of many jewellery clubs and associationsincluding New York Diamond Dealers Club, Belgium Diamond Bourse and Israel Diamond Exchange.

In the next issue of Coloured StonesDo the ‘big five’ still reign over the gemstone market?

Branded JewelleryWe talk to key players who have happily embraced this increasingly important sector of the market.

JewellerThe Voice of The Industry

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