Who's Hungry? Magazine | Late Summer 2013 | No 8

l a t e s u m m e r 2 0 1 3 N O 0 08

2

FEATURES

2 C O N T E N T S

22 High Spirits: Fine & Shandy 24

38

12

In Season:Sweet Shades of Gold

Weather Permitting:Bright Green

The Makingof Ina’s Cookbook

06 Top 5: Summer Classics 20 Portrait of a Chef:Justin Brunson

3

4 Contributors

5 Letter from Steve

6 Top 5: Summer Classics

12 Ina’s Cookbook

20 Portrait of a Chef

22 High Spirits

24 In Season: Sweet Shades of Gold

38 Bright Green

48 The Art of the Ice Cube

50 A Day in the Life

62 Hidden Gems: Hot Doug’s

64 Bison is Back

76 Food Porn Continued

82 How We Did It

84 Recipe Index

CONTENTS

CONTACTSmedia inquiriesJudith Mara | [email protected]

Deirdre O’Shea | [email protected]

sponsorship opportunitiesDeirdre O’Shea | [email protected]

representationSchumann & Company | www.schumannco.com

[email protected] | 312.432.1702

stephen hamilton 1520 W. Fulton | Chicago, IL 60607

www.stephenhamilton.com

N O 0 08

3C O N T E N T S

48 The Art of the Ice Cube

76 Food Porn Continued

82 How We Did It

62 Hidden Gems:Hot Doug’s

50

64

A Day in the Life

Bison is Back

4

inga witscher | Dairy Farmer and Host of Around The Farm Table

As a fourth generation dairy farmer, Inga isn’t afraid

to get her hands dirty. Tending cattle, plucking

vegetables from the garden, baking bread, and

making cheese: Inga does it all, and makes it all look easy. Her new PBS

series, Around the Farm Table, focuses on the work of local farmers, seasonal

ingredients and what to do with them. For Who’s Hungry?™ magazine, Inga

shares her daily adventures from a bustling farm, where the sound of cows

in the morning is the only alarm clock she needs.

C O N T R I B U T O R S

judith mara | Editor and Writer

Judith has worked with Stephen for almost

seven years and helps to lead the editorial concept

and execution of Who’s Hungry?™ magazine. An

award-winning former creative director for major

ad agencies such as Leo Burnett and J. Walter

Thompson, Judith sweats the details, pens Weather Permitting and

literally hand writes How We Did It.

ian law | Design

Ian designed every aspect of Who’s Hungry?™

magazine with meticulous attention to detail and

typography, and helped turn static images into an

interactive experience. His award-winning design

work has been featured in the pages of Print,

Creativity, How, PDN and Graphic Design USA.

dannielle kyrillos | Writer and Television Commentator

A series judge on Bravo’s Top Chef Just Desserts,

Dannielle is an expert on stylish entertaining, food,

fashion, and travel. She appears regularly on NBC’s

Today and The Nate Berkus Show, as well as on E!

News, BetterTV, CNBC, CNN, and local morning programming in New York

and Philadelphia. For Who’s Hungry?™ magazine, Dannielle scouts out the

season’s summer classics.

ina pinkney | Chef and Owner of INA’S

Ina has been satisfying Chicago’s appetite since

1991, when she founded her namesake restaurant

and turned it into one of the city’s most beloved

breakfast spots. A frequent guest on local news and

cable TV, the acclaimed chef has also been featured in publications such as

The New York Times, The Wall Street Journal, Gourmet, Vogue, and many more. For

Who’s Hungry?™ magazine, Ina opens her kitchen doors and lets us peak

into the process behind her upcoming cookbook—an exciting collaboration

with Stephen Hamilton.

c o n t r i b u t o r s N O 0 0 8

deirdre o’shea | Production Director

If you have worked with Stephen Hamilton,

you’ve worked with Deirdre. Drawing on 15 years

of experience in managing photography studios,

Deirdre has a hand in nearly every aspect of

Stephen’s business. She’s been instrumental in

organizing the magazine’s shoots, sourcing ingredients, and always keeping

production on schedule.

kathryn o’malley | Editor and Writer

Kathryn’s love of food is matched only by her

passion for writing about it; as part of the Who’s

Hungry?™ editorial team, she indulges in a bit of

both. Her popular food blog, dramaticpancake.com,

garners more than 40,000 unique viewers per month

and highlights the people and stories behind great recipes.

heather sperling | Chicago Editor of Tasting Table and Co-founder of Fête

Heather is the Chicago editor of Tasting Table, a

free daily email publication about the country’s

best food, drink, chefs and more. A co-founder of

Fête (a pop-up night market and cultural festival

celebrating the finest in Chicago’s food and design) and food editor of The

Chicagoan, her work has appeared in Plate magazine, TheAtlantic.com, and Planet

Green. For Who’s Hungry?™ magazine, Heather explores some of the best—

and most colorful—drinks of the season.

bryan olsen | Writer and Performer

Bryan Olsen is a writer and performer for Barely

Political’s “The Key of Awesome.” Additionally, he

wrote for Comedy Central’s Roast of David Hasselhoff,

and sold a screenplay to Paramount Pictures and

Ivan Reitman. As an actor, Mr. Olsen has appeared

on several episodes of Comedy Central’s Chappelle’s Show. For Who’s Hungry?™

magazine, Bryan gets dirty with some tantalizing food porn.

todd womack | Comedian and Writer

Todd Womack is a Brooklyn-based comedian who

has been a writer/performer on the gigantic YouTube

series The Key of Awesome, since 2010. The series has

over 1 billion views to date, and can be found on the

YouTube channel “Barely Political.” His credits include

Good Morning America, 20/20, Chappelle’s Show; and appearances on Bravo, VH-1,

TNT, and in Esquire magazine. For Who’s Hungry?™ magazine, Todd gets dirty

with some tantalizing food porn.

5L E T T E R F R O M S T E V E | P O R T R A I T S B Y A N D R E W B U R K L E

a special thanks to: Geovanna Salas, Sarah Kosokowski, Meg Galus, CeCe Campise, Art Smith, Justin Brunson, Joe Ricketts, Ruth Siegel,

Nate Summer, Jen Straus, Doug Sohn, Jackie Doran, Raymond Barrera, Justin Paris, Josephine Orba, Vanessa Dubiel, Geoff Binns-Calvey, Sara Cruz,

Melissa Schwister, Tom Hamilton, Juan Palomino, Paula Walters, Kaitlyn McQuaid, Bryan Olsen, Todd Womack, Seana Monahan,and Fausto Jara,

Hans early-Nelson (Primitive Precision)

I have the best job on earth. And it just keeps getting

more interesting and exciting every year. Pushing the

boundaries of food photography is a thrilling challenge.

And that is what’s important about this issue––capturing

food related “experiences” to bring an increased dimension

to our stories.

LETTER FROM STEVE

Food doesn’t spend its life sitting on

a plate. At some point it was growing,

blooming, mooing, clucking, snorting,

buzzing or whatever comes naturally.

That’s a fascinating connection I

continually appreciate.

Which is what brought my crew and I

to Joe Ricketts’ Double T Bison Ranch in

Wyoming. In “Bison is Back” we visit this

great American animal and explore why

bison is finding its rightful place––once

again––on our tables.

We’ve wanted to do a story on honeybees

for a while, but had to wait for the right

season. In “Sweet Shades of Gold” I get

up close and personal to thousands

of honeybees at Heritage Prairie Farm

in Illinois. And top pastry chefs share

creative dessert recipes from Honey

Ganache to Honey Nougatine.

At St. Isidore’s Mead Dairy Farm in

Wisconsin we get a first person glimpse

of the routine of a sustainable dairy farm

in “A Day in the Life”. The dairy herd

was sweet, gentle and very cooperative

considering that dawn was just breaking

over the pastures. I couldn’t wait to taste

Hannah, Jenny and Mae’s fresh milk in my

coffee at breakfast. Who’s Hungry?™

STEPHEN HAMILTON

T O P 5 : S U M M E R C L A S S I C S

To us Americans, a campfire in summer

probably means grilled meats and

toasted marshmallows. Our Spanish

friends see it a bit differently: The

quintessential summer experience

involving an open fire is friends

gathered around a giant paella pan,

simmering a lusty broth and rice

and seafood and vegetables, all of it

infused with the smoke of whatever

wood is fueling the fire. A close indoor

PaellaJALEO

480 7TH ST., NW

WASHINGTON, DC 20004

202.628.7949

WWW.JALEO.COM

Dannielle Kyrillos, a series judge

on Bravo’s Top Chef Just Desserts

and expert on all things food

and entertaining, shares her five

favorite Summer Classics from

around the country.

Portrait by Peter Hurley

6

TOP 5approximation of this fiery camaraderie

is to be had at Jaleo, Spanish national

treasure Jose Andres’s tapas spot. You

can be sure the chef once questioned

by the FBI for importing a paella pan so

big it looked like a satellite, and who as

a boy yearned for his father to let him

tend the paella fire (it’s a very manly

job), captures the essence of Spanish

summer: intoxicating herbs and spices,

rich shrimp flavors and rice-just-so.

1

7

b y D A N N I E L L E K Y R I L L O S

P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y S T E P H E N H A M I LT O N

Summer ClassicsTOP 5

2 Tacos Pescados (Fish Tacos) LA CONDESA

400A WEST 2ND ST.

AUSTIN, TX 78701

512.499.0300

WWW.LACONDESA.COM/AUSTIN

Texans have the recipe for staying happy in the heat down pat: tequila,

cocktails and tacos. It’s a recipe perfect in its simplicity, and at Austin’s

La Condesa, chef Rene Ortiz and Food & Wine’s Best New Pastry Chef

Laura Sawicki elevate it by using majestically fresh ingredients and

layering flavors and textures like modern Mexican wizards. La Condesa

is in super-hip Austin’s hippest district, and eating there makes you

feel cool by association, but everything about the place feels genuine

and real. The griddled Texas redfish tacos, crunchy with green cabbage,

punchy with chipotle aioli and pico de gallo, and nestled in crispy,

corn-y tortillas, are miniature masterpieces—summer in three bites.

8 T O P 5 : S U M M E R C L A S S I C S

9P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y S T E P H E N H A M I LT O N

When Summer picked a mascot, Lobster won,

hands—er, claws—down. And while that kooky

crustacean most often appears in summer casual

garb, just thrown on a buttery roll, he embodies

the finest summer splendor when dressed to

the nines in Clark Frasier and Marc Gaier’s

elegant and exotic lobster shortcake at Arrows

Restaurant. The James Beard Best Chefs of the

Northeast have been pioneers of sustainable

sourcing and cooking, enveloping diners in the

Lobster ShortcakeARROWS RESTAURANT

BERWICK ROAD, PO BOX 803

OGUNQUIT, ME 03907

207.361.1100

WWW.ARROWSRESTAURANT.COM

rugged goodness that is Maine for more than

twenty years. “The…lobster…comes from the

chilly, rough seas right nearby, brought to us

by the people who caught it…” the chefs have

explained. Gaier and Frasier are true to the old

New England ways and the purest ingredients

while adding their own Southeast Asian-inspired

tweaks, giving lobster the tastiest summer

costume imaginable.

3

View recipe on page 84 »

lobster shortcake

10

Famed chef Sam Mason has partnered with

husband-and-wife team Mohan and Holiday

Kumar to craft what might be the most

outrageously addictive, ridiculously creamy,

perfectly savory version of the most classic

summer dish of all: ice cream. Licking a cone of

ice cream slowly enough to savor it but quickly

enough so it doesn’t melt is the ultimate and

often only way to cool off in summer in the city,

and the gang’s new Brooklyn shop captures the

childlike wonder we all feel with a cone in hand

with scrumptious sophistication. Using locally

sourced milk from Battenkill Valley Creamery

in flavors such as blueberry buttermilk, toasted

almond coffee bean and manchego pineapple,

Mason crafts irresistible combinations that are

silky, pure and unforgettable. OddFellows also

serves milkshakes, craft sodas and sorbets.

Ice Cream ConesODDFELLOWS ICE CREAM CO.

175 KENT AVE.

BROOKLYN, NY 11249

347.599.0556

WWW.ODDFELLOWSNYC.COM

T O P 5 : S U M M E R C L A S S I C S

4

11

Blueberry CrostataHUCKLEBERRY

1014 WILSHIRE BLVD.

SANTA MONICA, CA 90401

310.451.2311

WWW.HUCKLEBERRYCAFE.COM


There are those hazy, lazy beach days etched

into our memories like old movies, with the

light so perfect and the salty waves so frisky

and the wind so gentle that they could only take

place in Southern California. And along with the

seagull soundtrack and golden hue is the distinct

sensation of breaking apart and biting into a

crumbly, juicy peach or berry crostata you picked

up that morning at Huckleberry in Santa Monica.

Cruising by the sweet little café (part of chef-baker

Zoe Nathan and her husband Josh Loeb’s growing

empire of beautiful rusticity) and selecting pastries

and sandwiches bursting with farmer’s market

produce is as much a part of the ritual as the

ocean swim. It’s almost as if the crostata’s recipe

includes the luscious fruit dribbling onto your skin

and mixing with the saltwater dried on your chin.

5

12 T H E M A K I N G O F I N A’ S C O O K B O O K12


heavenly hots

13

They’re everywhere. In every

room. On my counter. On my

nightstand. Overflowing my

bookcases. COOKBOOKS!

I read them like novels,

because, in a sense, they

are. The time, effort and

expertise that produces each

one is to be honored...revered.

13

Writing a cookbook was always on

my mind but seemed too daunting a

task when running a restaurant and

not having an office staff to help. But

that all changed when Steve Hamilton

encouraged me to think about it and

promised to take the photographs.

It was that magnificent offer that

propelled me to start writing down

the stories I wanted to share to go

along with the recipes.

THE MAKING OF

ina’s Cookbook


14 T H E M A K I N G O F I N A’ S C O O K B O O K

When Steve showed up at Ina’s with a

carful of equipment and the best staff in

the food photography business to set up

shop upstairs, my terrific kitchen crew

went into high gear to produce all the

food you’ve come to expect and love.


Steve’s Note: Our plan was to shoot a

single dessert straight on, as shown at the

top of this page. But when I saw how great

the ramekins looked when they came out of

the kitchen, I shot all four of them from a

straight-down angle, then three (pictured),

then two, then one.

To keep up the pace of shooting a cookbook,

we built two side-by-side sets. One straight

down and another 3/4-angle “beauty” set.

This allowed us to be shooting on one set

while setting up for another shot on the other

set. (Check out Raymond’s set diagram.)


crisp topping


Does it matter that sometimes a recipe

doesn’t work? Or that the print is too

small to read? Or that the photographs are

bunched up and nowhere near the recipe?

You bet it does!

Steve’s Note: There is always collaboration

between a client and myself. Here, I am

discussing a test shot with Ina before we

shoot the final shot.


ina’s vegetable hash



ina’s award-winning fried chicken



gingerbread pancakes

19PHOTOGRAPHY BY STEPHEN HAMILTON

The images created reminded us that we do

serve delicious and beautiful food every day and

now we’ll be able to share it with all of you.

This book will be my love letter to everyone I’ve

fed and to all of you who make breakfast.

Steve’s Note: Collaboration of the

crew is important as well. It takes

an entire team to accomplish a great

shot. It’s not only about lighting,

props, angles, etc.; it’s about

directing all of these talents.

The gingerbread pancakes look like

they are being eaten. After I shot

the whole pancakes, I took a fork

and dipped it in whipped cream and

removed a piece as if a bite was

taken. Then I repeated removing

bites until I got the look I wanted.

We shot it that way, then added the

syrup for the final shot.

20

P O R T R A I T O F A

CHEFb y K AT H RY N O ’ M A L L E Y

Justin Brunson’s

20 P O R T R A I T O F A C H E F : J U S T I N B R U N S O N

2121

honey, what began your love affair with pigs? I think back when I was a child and remember the cool time in the

fall and spending time with my grandparents, and it seems like they

were always preparing for winter. But thats is when I remember

my first love affair with that sweet smell of pork chops cooking in

my grandmother’s cast iron skillet, in the fat rendered from that

morning’s bacon. So that’s what started it, I’m sure, but learning

about cooking and how one animal can be used for so many

different things is what pushed me over the edge to be such

a pork fan.

name three adjectives that define your cuisine.Traditional, whimsical, delectable.

diners are taking a special interest in nose-to-tail eating right now. why do you think that is?I think people are really into where their food is coming from right

now, and the idea of nose-to-tail starts with farming, I think. I

don’t know any guys doing this that don’t know their farmers

directly. It’s also the most responsible way to bring product into the

restaurant— my pigs are raised about an hour and twenty minutes

away from the restaurant and live on a great diet of grasses, grains

and vegetables. They live a good life and have a proper death,

which is the most important part of an animal’s life. Also, using the

whole animal, not wasting any of it is important to people who are

conscious of what they feed themselves.

what would you say is unique about the denver culinary scene?Denver is a culinarily young town that is just getting ready to take

off and put itself on the map. We have many great young chefs

and this great pride of localness here. The farmers and chefs are

working together now and we all know that will make a brighter

future for the food scene here. One thing that makes us unique here

is that we get along for the most part—not too many haters here

which makes for some great events together.

any new projects in the works? what can we look forward to in the future?Well, in October my team and I will be opening another Masterpiece

Delicatessen in the Uptown neighborhood here in Denver so the

sandwich lovers on the other side of town will be satisfied.

I also have several other concepts I would love to do, including a

fried chicken shack because Denver deserves my grandmother’s

fried chicken.

what do you like to do when you’re off-duty? any trashy television we should know about?Day off? What’s that? I have 3 businesses! But on the chance I get

one, I like to get up to the mountains and fly fish whenever possible.

Hopefully there will be more of that time off stuff in the future.

And as far as trashy TV, Breaking Bad in my mind is the best tv show

ever written.


Justin Brunson has a penchant for pork.

At his popular Denver eatery, Old Major,

two or three humanely raised hogs are

butchered in house every Wednesday,

and then ground, cured, seasoned, cooked

and incorporated into dishes across the

menu. Fancy ingredients abound (think

fois gras and Lillet gelée), but the restaurant

maintains a down-to-earth charm that

keeps the place cozy.

For a more casual—but just as enticing—option, head a few blocks over

to Masterpiece Delicatessen, Brunson’s highly acclaimed deli with a

second outpost set to launch this fall. Sandwiches here are built with

superior skill and exceptional ingredients, from twelve-hour braised

brisket to white truffle egg salad. Dry-cured, peachwood-smoked maple

bacon from Brunson’s own Denver Bacon Company can be purchased at

the counter and and will soon be available online.

Ready to pig out? Dig into our interview with Chef Brunson, led by the

King of Comfort Food and our previously featured chef, Art Smith.

View recipe on page 91»

tasso ham

Brunson’s perfectly seasoned Tasso Ham takes the humble

sandwich from ordinary to extraordinary.

2222 H I G H S P I R I T S : F I N E & S H A N DY


tamarind shandy HIGH SPIRITS

b y

H E AT H E R S P E R L I N G

FINE &SHANDY


Many will argue that it’s hard to top the satisfaction of an ice-cold beer on a sweltering summer day.

That hasn’t stopped bartenders from

trying. Beer-based cocktails are in

season, spurring creativity and slaking

thirst across the country.

The most familiar forms are the

Michelada, based on the trinity of hot

sauce, lime and beer, and the Shandy,

classically a combination of beer

and lemonade. These templates have

inspired legions of clever riffs, from a

Roman Michelada at San Francisco’s

Locanda (Campari, lime juice, Italian

beer) to an Eastern Shore Shandy at Wit

& Wisdom in Baltimore, where pilsner

is spiked with lemon juice, vodka and

Old Bay simple syrup.

At the new Uncle Boon’s in New York, fiery

Thai dishes demand a cool, refreshing

counterpoint. Enter the Tamarind Shandy,

a refreshing, sophisticated drink that’s

designed to battle heat, both on the plate

and in the air. “In Thailand, you’re drinking

beer,” says Thai-born chef and owner Ann

Redding, whose Nolita restaurant matches

traditionalism with gentle innovation, with

exciting, unusual results. “We sat down

with a bunch of Thai ingredients, and this

is what happened.”

Tamarind, lime and palm sugar lend

flavor to the drink. They’re ingredients

essential to traditional pad Thai,

and to Uncle Boon’s version of mee

krob, crispy noodles in tamarind

sauce, there embellished with fried

sweetbreads. Tamarind-palm sugar

syrup and lime juice are topped with

beer—currently Goose Island’s Sofie

saison—and a hearty dose of house-

made pomelo bitters, made with the

fruit’s juice and rind.

Use any citrus bitters when making

this drink at home—and do make

it at home. Complex, gently sweet

and superbly refreshing, it’s a

simple showstopper at a summer

cookout, as comfortable next to a

chile-and fish-sauce-laden salad

as a beer-can chicken or smoky,

low-and-slow barbecue.

It’s summer satisfaction, improved.

24

IN SEASON

SWEET SHADES

OF GOLD

My mom’s brother was an accountant by day and a mad scientist

by night. He and his son conducted chemistry experiments as

entertainment, and their small Oklahoma garage doubled as a sewing

room for my uncle’s most prized invention, a ventilated beekeeping

suit. He was relentlessly curious and endearingly quirky, and after

years of backyard beekeeping, he created and marketed the kind of bee

suit he himself wanted to wear: one that was durable, protective, and

breathable—even at the height of an Oklahoma summer.

When my uncle passed away unexpectedly,

my mother took over the bee suit business

and has been running it ever since. Thanks to

a gift from my uncle, I also grew up sharing a

backyard with some 30,000 Italian bees. And

though the yellow-streaked stunners have

been circling my family for a while now, it

wasn’t until I set out to write about them that

B Y K AT H RY N O ’ M A L L E Y

I realized how little I knew of their secret,

mysterious lives—and the remarkable

effort involved in creating just a single

spoonful of honey.

Stock your pantry with different varieties,

and let the following recipes help guide you

to your favorites.

I N S E A S O N : S W E E T S H A D E S O F G O L D


26 I N S E A S O N : S W E E T S H A D E S O F G O L D

27

HUMBLE WORKERS

Bees work hard. Really hard. To make just

one pound of honey, bees must visit some

2 million flowers. We depend on them for

one of our favorite sweeteners, but they are

also responsible for over $16 billion worth of

agricultural product through pollination. Our

supermarkets would look much different had

honeybees not appeared on the scene more

than 100 million years ago.




Raw comb honey, courtesy of Heritage Prairie Farm in Elburn, Illinois

A forager honeybee stores nectar in a special

region of its gut called a crop. When fully

loaded, the bee returns to the hive and

transfers the nectar to the aptly named

receiver bees that are waiting on the front

porch for delivery. The receiver bees take the

nectar, now mixed with enzymes from the

forager’s special stomach, to the honeycomb,

where they complete the process of

transforming nectar to honey.

FROM

NECTAR

TO

HONEY




honey nougatine by geovanna salas

I N S E A S O N : S W E E T S H A D E S O F G O L D


milk honey pudding by meg galus

32


It’s easy to forget that honey is a seasonal

food since it lasts indefinitely. But honey is

entirely dependent on local climate and the

nectar of blossoming flowers, which influence

the color, flavor and aroma of honey much like

the sea shapes an oyster or a barrel impacts

wine. As a general rule of thumb, light honeys

are faintly sweet (clover), amber honeys are

richly mellow (blueberry), and dark honeys

are bold and robust (buckwheat).

A Seasonal

TREAT



honey mandeleines by sarah kosokowski



honey vanilla ice cream by sarah kosokowski


milk chocolate honey ganache by sarah kosokowski

One of the simplest and easiest ways to

enjoy honey is on its own—scooped up

by the spoonful—or stirred into a hot cup

of tea. The sweet, molten gold can also

be spread over buttered toast, drizzled

atop oatmeal and baked into breads. Or it

can be used to more decadent effect, as

evidenced in these desserts.

endless

applications



3838 B R I G H T G R E E N

39

Bright Green

mint

b y J U D I T H M A R A

Almost everywhere, farmer’s markets are sporting tables piled

with basil, mint, thyme, arugula, rosemary, parsley and many

other types of fresh culinary herbs. Nothing smells as heavenly

and few edibles pack a bigger punch of raw flavor.

39

There is hardly a cuisine in the world

that doesn’t use fresh herbs to brighten

the flavors of a dish. For many, herbs are

used in traditional dishes without much

thought as to why. It’s just been done that

way for hundreds of years. This is because

many herbs have become indigenous to

certain climates and soils.

But with the popularity of diverse ethnic

cuisines in this country, a great variety of

culinary herbs are available to everyone,

everywhere. Many farmers we’ve spoken to

say that people ask them all the time about

how to use, store, cut and grow herbs.

Maybe we can help.

WEATHER PERMITTING




roasted potatoes with rosemary & sage


A dozen things you may or may not know about culinary herb s

arugula, fennel, chicory and hops are herbsMany people don’t know that some of our

common greens are actually herbs. This is

important because it opens your mind to

thinking of herbs in a broader way. Arugula

and fennel can both be made into center-of-

the-plate dishes rather than being relegated

to the side as a garnish. Both also make

great pesto sauces to toss with pasta or use

as a pizza topping. And what would beer

taste like without the bitter slap of hops?

herbs aren’t savory or sweetYou often hear people describe herbs as

sweet, savory or spicy. But herbs are flavor

neutral. Herbs do not contain sugar. Nor do

they contain sodium. Their flavor comes

from oils. So don’t be hesitant to use herbs

with fruit, in desserts or in baking. Or to use

herbs like mint in savory dishes. You’ll be

delighted with how flexible herbs are in

the kitchen.

many herb stems are great for cookingThe leaves of herbs such as cilantro, parsley

and dill weed are too fragile to cook for long

periods of time. But their hardier stems pack

a lot of flavor and can be cooked for hours in

a broth, bouquet garni, braise or with beans.

You can also use whole stems of thyme and

fennel in the same way. Rosemary, mint

and tarragon stems are woody and are

better thrown onto the fire of a hot grill

for extra flavor.

sagerosemary


if i buy basil on wednesday will it still be fresh on saturday?More than likely the answer to that question is yes, if

you store herbs properly. The easiest way to store them

is to wrap them in a barely damp paper towel and put

them in a plastic bag in the refrigerator. Then wash them

and pat them dry just before using. It’s also trendy now

to store basil upright (like a bunch of flowers) in a glass

with an inch or two of water, cover with a plastic bag and

put in the refrigerator.

the best way to store fresh herbs is to grow them yourselfThat’s right, the best way to keep fresh herbs

longer is to grow them yourself. Which is

pretty easy because most pests don’t like

herbs and you don’t need to fertilize them.

It’s best to buy herb plants from a local farmer

because you know they will grow in your area.

Also, they shouldn’t be overwatered but never

let the roots dry out, especially rosemary. And

always pinch off any flowers the minute you

see them.

basil


don’t buy culinary herbs with flowers (basil, oregano, sage, parsley, cilantro, thyme, mint, tarragon)Once an herb plant starts to flower it puts

all its effort into flowering, decreasing the

flavor in the leaves. So never buy herbs

with flowers on them unless you’re going

to make tea with the blossoms. If that is

that is the only plant available, then taste a

leaf to make sure it still has lots of flavor.

it’s not hard to learn the difference between herbsIdentifying the look or taste of various herbs

seems to puzzle many cooks, but this is

easy to fix. Next time you’re at the farmer’s

market, pull a small piece of leaf off an herb

and taste it. (You may want to ask if you can

do this.) If you do this often enough, you’ll

quickly become familiar with herbs.

Never buy herb s with flowers on them

thyme

marjorum


cilantro is mexican. basil is italian.That’s not the whole truth. We know many

Italian chefs that cook with thyme and

sage as much or more than basil. Cilantro,

the most widely used herb in the world, is

predominantly used in Asian cooking. Basil

is also a popular herb used in Asian cooking

and mint is used in almost every cuisine.

We make this point to encourage cooks to

be open to a broader understanding of how

to use these magic morsels when cooking.

The famous Italian fish dish, branzino,

wouldn’t be same without fresh thyme.

Green curry without basil is unthinkable.

mix them upWe wish more farmers would sell mixed

bouquets of herbs that you could just chop

up and add to a potato or bean salad or

sprinkle over a filet or bruschetta. Until they

do, mix up your own bouquets from leftover

herbs. Start with flat leaf parsley and add

basil, chives, oregano, dill, thyme and/or

tarragon in any quantity and chop together.

For a topping, add a little olive oil.

chop them up. throw them in. but when?Fresh herb leaves range from sturdy

(rosemary, thyme, sage, fresh bay) to soft

(basil, cilantro, chervil, tarragon, sorrel) to

somewhere in-between (oregano, chives,

parsley, marjoram). A rule of thumb is

that sturdier herbs can take a little heat.

Soft herbs are always added at the end of

cooking. If not, the flavor will just melt away.

parsley

oregano

45P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y S T E P H E N H A M I LT O N 45


farm market vegetable cheese tart

46 B R I G H T G R E E N46

herbs are edible garnishesWe use a lot of fresh herbs for garnish

in our photography. They lend freshness

to a photograph. But we never garnish a

dish without considering if the herb(s)

we select will also add fresh flavor to the

dish in real life. Gone are the days of the

tasteless curly parsley garnishes. To stay

are the days of making everything you

put in and on a dish matter.


cut, rock and rollWe find vegetable cleavers are the best

tool for a home cook to chop herbs.

Their long straight edge gives a clean

cut to herbs with minimal bruising. If

you don’t have a cleaver, use a sharp


herb stuffed tomatoes

chef’s knife and cut by pressing down

and rocking forward in one motion.

We also recommend cutting on a wood

board as opposed to plastic, as the

blade can push deeper into wood and

make a cleaner cut.

The last word on cutting is how to cut

basil julienne style. Luckily it’s simple:

Stack basil leaves on top of each other,

largest to smallest. Roll them up

lengthwise and cut crosswise into 1/8-

to 1/4-inch pieces.

T H E A R T O F T H E I C E C U B E

THE ART of the

ICE CUBE

48

b y

K AT H RY N O ’ M A L L E Y

P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y S T E P H E N H A M I LT O N 49

It’s a glorious moment in The Wizard of Oz

when the Wicked Witch of the West utters the

now infamous lines, “I’m melting, I’m melting!”

But ice cubes melting on a photography set?

Well, not quite so glorious. These sparkling little

cubes help make a cold beverage look positively

refreshing, and it’s important that they

remain solid, or at least partially solid, over

the course of an hours-long shoot. Thankfully,

when real ice just won’t cut it, there are a

number of convincing alternatives ready to

stand in its place.

SILICONE CUBES Silicone cubes, concocted

by special effects man Geoff

Binns-Calvey, have a texture

similar to Jell-O but look

perfectly real in a still photo.

The squishy material makes it

easy to manipulate and break

into different shapes and sizes.

ACRYLIC OR PLASTIC ICE

Photographers and stylists can

make ice cubes out of acrylic or

plastic, or purchase pre-made

cubes online. But with many cubes

costing as much as $50 a piece,

these can add up quickly.

REAL ICEDon’t forget about frozen water!

For casual shoots that don’t

require many adjustments, real

ice works perfectly well. You

can make your ice with an ice

cube tray, of course, or you can

source it from an ice provider

in all different shapes, textures

and sizes. In need of a 400-pound

iceberg-sized hunk? They’ve got

you covered.

50 A D AY I N T H E L I F E50

51

“Red Sky in the morning sailors takes warning”…. That’s ok!

We need the rain. This time of year our pastures can benefit

from all the moisture they can absorb.

With my overalls tucked into my barn

boots, I head out into the field as the sun

rises over Wisconsin. Dragging my feet

through the morning dew, I take a mental

note of what’s growing in the pasture.

P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y S T E P H E N H A M I LT O N 51

A Day in the Lifeb y I N G A W I T S C H E R

There’s clover and plantain, crows foot

trefoil and a few pesky thistles ready to

bloom. Overall it looks good. We will be

able to move the cows into this pasture

after the weekend.

ST

. I

SID

ORE’S

ME

AD

Wisconsin

52

On our farm, St. Isidore’s Mead, we

practice Managed Intensive Grazing,

which means we move the cows to a

fresh strip of grass every 12 hours. The

cows are turned into a new pasture

after the morning and evening milkings.

A D AY I N T H E L I F E52

They spend that time eating a diverse diet

of native grasses and wild herbs which

give their milk a clean, grassy flavor. The

cows in turn fertilize the ground behind

them, improving the soils for the future.


S t. Isidore’s Mead

54

“Ca-boss, Ca-boss, come on ladies, let’s go”“Ca-boss, Ca-boss, come on ladies, let’s go,”

I call out to our 15 Jersey cows as, one by

one, they begin to rise. First is Hannah; she

stands up and immediately whips her long

brown tail across her back before going into

a downward dog-like stretch and then heads

off to the water tank. Next Jenny and Mae

stand up, arch their backs and file into the

line of cows heading towards the barn.

A D AY I N T H E L I F E


56 A D AY I N T H E L I F E


Back at the barn, my husband Joe sanitizes

all the milking equipment. Producing high

quality milk is extremely important to

us. We will never produce a large amount

of milk, but we work to produce the best

quality. To ensure that high quality, we

milk the old-fashioned way, using a bucket

milking system. The bucket milkers are

gentler on the cows’ udders, and also on

the milk. In a conventional/factory farm

system, milk is pumped dozens of times.

That pumping shatters the fat globules

of the milk. When handled gently, the

milk stays in its truest form, creating a

fuller flavored milk, perfect for making

St. Isidore’s cheese.

58 A D AY I N T H E L I F E

59

At the age of 61, my father, a third

generation dairy farmer, became a licensed

Wisconsin State cheese maker. Now, when

the cows are eating grass as the seasons

allow, we transform our grass-fed, organic,

high quality milk into a farmstead raw milk

cheese. Today is one of those days when

we can deliver the milk to him, still warm

from the morning’s milking.


60

After 8 hours of stirring, then adding

the rennet and cultures, the curd comes

together. The cheese is then pressed and

wrapped in butter-soaked cheesecloth,

then pressed again to form 20-pound

round truckles. A label is sewn into the

cheesecloth with the date, the name of

the pasture the cows were grazing in,

a description of the weather and the

names of the cows who produced the

milk. The cheese is then moved into a

cave with the correct temperature and

humidity. The truckles are turned and

brushed continuously throughout a

one-year hibernation in the cave. This

guarantees even moisture throughout

the truckle. Mold will grow on the cheese

which will provide flavor.

After the evening milking, Joe follows the

cows to the field and I make a pit stop

to make martinis and grab some curds

out of the fridge from this morning’s

cheese make. Sitting with Joe in the clover,

cocktails in hand, we listen to the cows

graze—this is a tradition my father started

when we first moved to St. Isidore’s Mead.

With the last sip of gin, the rain starts

to sprinkle, and we head for home.

A D AY I N T H E L I F E


6262

b y

J U D I T H M A R A

Hidden Gem

HOT DOUG’S “THE DOG” AND “FOIE GRAS AND SAUTERNES DUCK SAUSAGE”

Technically (according to our strict

requirements), Hot Doug’s is a hidden

gem. It’s off the beaten path and you

have to seek out the neighborhood

and the restaurant. What makes the

place easy to find is when the line of

hungry humanity curls around the

block. Once inside, choosing a sausage

from the menu is surprisingly daunting

considering Hot Doug’s serves one thing

and serves it to perfection—sausages.

Yes there are fries, but no burgers, no

wraps and certainly no pizza.

We gave Doug carte blanche to choose

his favorite “gem” to feature. He chose

two, giving the persuasive reason that

they represent the two sides of his

menu––classic and creative. His picks

were a Chicago–style hot dog with

mustard, sport peppers, tomatoes,

pickle, relish and celery salt, and a

playful Foie Gras and Sauternes Duck

Sausage with Truffle Aioli, Foie Gras

Mousse and Fleur de Sel.

Chicago-style hot dogs have a long

history as a cheap meal dating back to

the Depression. It still is today at Hot

Doug’s for only $2 per dog. The Foie

Gras and Sauternes Duck Sausage is

pure Doug at his creative best. Using

an existing high quality duck sausage

and playing around, Doug concocted

this fan favorite. He paired the sausage

The best dishes that no one knows about…yet

HIDDENYou could argue that Hot Doug’s

is not a hidden gem because any

food-focused person in Chicago

has heard of this encased meat

emporium. After all, Hot Doug’s is

what local legends are made of: Doug

Sohn avoids a career path but loves

to cook so he goes to chef’s school.

After he finishes, he’s working as a

cookbook editor and eats a bad hot

dog. Two and a half years later he

opens Hot Doug’s to bring back the

hot dog the way it should be done.

“People weren’t doing it justice and

I wanted to restore respectability to

the sausage,” he explains.

with foie gras mousse, truffles and a

sprinkle of fluer de sel and thought it

would be funny to offer it on his menu,

never thinking it would take off.

For those who will be discovering Hot

Doug’s for the first time, here are a few

newbie tips. Hot Doug’s only accepts

cash. They are hard-core about closing

at 4:00 p.m., however if you are in

line by 4:00 p.m. you will get served.

And the real inside scoop is that on

Fridays and Saturdays they serve Duck

Fat Fries, iconic fries cooked in duck

fat. Just another reason why a humble

neighborhood sausage shop is stuff

legends are made of.

Be sure to check out Doug’s colorful and

irreverent new book Hot Doug’s: The Book,

at www.shopbenchmark.com/hotdougs.

< Gems >

H I D D E N G E M S : H O T D O U G ’ S

6363

HOT DOUG’SMonday–Saturday: 10:30 a.m.-4:00 p.m.

Closed Sundays

773.279.9550

3324 N. California Ave.

Chicago, IL 60618

www.hotdougs.com


64 B I S O N I S B A C K64

BISONis back

b y K AT H RY N O ’ M A L L E Y


“This scenery already rich pleasing and beautiful was still farther

heightened by immense herds of buffalo, deer, elk and antelopes

which we saw in every direction feeding on the hills and plains. I

do not think I exaggerate when I estimate the number of buffalo

which could be comprehended at one view to amount to 3000.”

— Meriwether Lewis, September 17, 1804, near present-day Chamerlain, South Dakota

66 B I S O N I S B A C K66


BISON FACT

Once upon a time, the great American

bison—often mistakenly called

buffalo—flourished in the tens of

millions and covered the Great Plains

in a blanket of shaggy brown. By the

late 19th century, however, settlers

had killed some 50 million bison for

food, sport and to deprive Native

Americans of their most valuable

natural resource. Enormous herds

were reduced to near extinction.

Bison are the heaviest land animals in North

America, often weighing a ton or more and

standing 5 to 6 feet tall at the shoulders. They

have large heads, massive humps and sharp

curved horns that can grow up to 2 feet long.

Despite their formidable size and bulk, bison

can sprint at speeds up to 40 miles per hour.

68 B I S O N I S B A C K

69

Propelled by the efforts of early

conservationists, the bison population

began a slow bounce back in 1905.

Recent interest in the animals as a

healthy, sustainable alternative to beef


has only quickened their resurgence.

Today, bison can be found at parks,

reserves and ranches around the

country, as well as on the plates of

adventurous eaters.

70

Joe Ricketts, entrepreneur and

philanthropist, has played a powerful role

in returning the meat to our menus. In

2003, Ricketts founded High Plains Bison,

a retailer of natural bison meat and the

official bison vendor at Chicago’s Wrigley

Field. At Ricketts’s quiet Wyoming ranch,

his bison graze in lumbering herds, heads

bowed, with shoulders as broad and

jagged as the mountains that stand in the

distance. Though much has changed since

the days of Lewis and Clark, one thing

remains the same: the undeniable thrill

at seeing these majestic creatures at

home in their natural habitat.

B I S O N I S B A C K70




Bison has a delicious, delicate flavor—lighter

and somewhat sweeter than beef—and an

impressive nutritional profile. Bison-industry

regulations require that bison raised for

their meat are never treated with artificial-

growth hormones, chemicals or unnecessary

antibiotics. Moreover, bison meat contains

far less fat, calories and cholesterol than

beef, but higher levels of iron, omega-3’s

and other nutrients.

BISON FACT


Because bison is so lean, its preparation

requires a little extra care to ensure it doesn’t

dry out. This means that steaks should never

be cooked beyond medium, and tougher cuts

(such as chuck, brisket and short ribs) are

best cooked low and slow for the most tender

and flavorful results.

BISON FACT


76 F O O D P O R N C O N T I N U E D76

FOOD PORN

continued


Captions by Bryan Olsen and Todd Womack of the amazing web series The Key of Awesome. Find it at www.youtube.com/barelypolitical.

78 F O O D P O R N C O N T I N U E D

79

Why would some sick bastard ice their asparagus? Did the asparagus sprain its ankle or something? I’m contacting the

authorities. Who has Padma’s number?

ICED ASPARAGUS


80

These tomatoes saw what was in the Ark at the end of Raiders of the Lost Ark.

squished tomatoes

F O O D P O R N C O N T I N U E D


82 H O W W E D I D I T

Deconstructing a shot

from Stephen Hamilton’s

The Restaurant Project

favorite dish

Led Zepplin Burger

Restaurant

Restaurant: Kuma’s Corner

Chicago, IL

food stylist

Jen Straus

prop stylist

Paula Walters

HOW WE DID IT

b y J U D I T H M A R A


84

reheating the lobster

Melt one pound butter in a small stainless steel pot and have it hot,

but not so warm that it is boiling or turning color, medium heat should

work well on most stoves.

Using a basket or a slotted spoon place the lobster in the butter for a

minute or until it feels warm to the touch. Do not overheat the lobster

as the tails will begin to curl and become tough.

Remove the lobster from the butter and place in a warm bowl with

just enough rum sauce to coat it lightly.

Assemble shortcakes with curried shallots, butter poached lobster

and lime vanilla rum sauce. Garnish with small sprigs of cilantro,

basil, and mint finish with a brunoise of shaved green papaya,

mango and pineapple.

butter poached maine lobster (from Arrows Restaurant in Ogunquit, Maine)

ingredients

· 6- 1 1/4 pound lobsters, cooked and picked from the shell

· 1/2 pound unsalted butter

cooking the lobster

In a saucepan, boil milk, water, butter, sugar and sea salt together.

Add the flour and cook until dry.

Bring a very large pot of salted water to a rapid boil. Drop the

live lobsters into the water and cook for nine minutes.

Drain into a sink and cool with ice and running cold water.

Pick off the tails and the claws and knuckles, discard the bodies.

Crack the shells gently with a heavy knife or cleaver and remove

the meat from the shell. (Using scissors will help remove the

knuckle meat easier).

Squeezing the tail firmly until it cracks will also allow you to

then remove the tail meat by pulling the shell apart. Split the

tails in half lengthwise.

Be certain the cartilage inside the claw is removed by making a

small slit and sliding it out. This can be done the morning of the

dinner and refrigerated until ready for dinner.

R E C I P E I N D E X

85

curried shallots

ingredients

· 8 shallots thinly sliced

· 1 tablespoon ginger finely chopped

· 1 serrano chili

· 1 teaspoon tumeric

· 1 tablespoon Madras curry powder

· 1 teaspoon kosher salt

· 1 cup rice wine vinegar

method

Put all ingredients into a stainless pot and

bring to a boil, turn off and allow to cool.

lime vanilla rum sauce

ingredients

· ½ cup lime juice

· ½ cup rice wine vinegar

· ¼ cup dark rum

· 1 serrano chili

· ½ vanilla bean split

· ¼ cup shallots

· 1 tablespoon ginger peeled and thinly sliced

· ½ pound unsalted butter

· Kosher salt

· Fresh ground pepper

· 1 teaspoon lime juice

· 1 teaspoon rum

method

Place the first seven ingredients into a

stainless sauce pan over medium heat and

reduce the liquids by 2/3 rd.

Then whisk in softened butter, season with

salt and pepper, add lime juice and rum.

Strain through a fine sieve discarding solid

ingredients.

Serve at once or hold in a warm place for

up to one hour.

mark’s shortcake

ingredients

· 1½ cups all purpose flour

· 1 ½ teaspoons baking powder

· ½ teaspoons baking soda

· 1 teaspoons salt

· 1 ½ sticks butter cubed then frozen

· ¾ to 1 cup buttermilk

· ¼ cup heavy cream

· 1/8 tsp ground clove

method

Combine dry ingredients. Cut in butter.

Add buttermilk until a soft dough is

formed. Roll out to a ½ inch thickness and

cut with a 3 inch cutter. Brush with cream

and bake at 325F.


86 R E C I P E I N D E X

In a mixing bowl (or blender or processor) beat the eggs. Add

the remaining ingredients and blend until smooth.

Heat a griddle or fry pan on medium high heat. Coat with a

thin film of oil. Carefully ‘drop’ a large spoonful of batter until

it makes a circle of about 3 inches. When a few bubbles appear

on the top, turn them over very carefully and cook until lightly

browned.

We serve them with a peach, raspberry, blueberry compote. I

personally think maple syrup is too strong a flavor for them.

ingredients:

· 4 eggs

· 2 cups sour cream

· 1/4 cup cakeflour

· 2 Tbsp. potato starch

· 3 Tbsp. sugar

· 1/2 tsp. baking soda

· 1/2 tsp. salt

heavenly hots

by Ina Pinkney

When I tasted these light-as-air packed-with-flavor little pancakes, I was hooked.

87R E C I P E I N D E X

Put all dry ingredients into a food processor and combine.

Add butter and ‘pulse’ 7-10 times until the butter pieces are

quite small - about the size of rice.

Fill an 8 oz. ramekin with blueberries and put 1/4 cup of

topping on each.

Store the topping in an airtight container in the refrigerator.

Bake the Crisps at 375 degrees for 15-17 minutes.

ingredients:

· 7oz. flour

· 4oz. sugar, white

· 4oz. sugar, light brown

· 1/2 tsp. cinnamon

· 1/2 tsp. nutmeg

· 6 oz. butter, unsalted, cut into small pieces

crisp topping

by Ina Pinkney

88 R E C I P E I N D E X

Bring 6 qt. of lightly salted water to a boil.

Using a perforated pasta basket, cook sweet potatoes in boiling water until

tender. Remove to an ice bath. Drain thoroughly when chilled. Using the same

method, cook the red potatoes and then cook Brussels sprouts until tender.

Heat a large sauté pan to medium high. Add 1 Tbsp. canola oil to pan. Sauté

onions until lightly browned. Remove from pan to cool. Add 2 Tbsp. canola oil

to pan. Sauté mushrooms until lightly browned. Remove from pan to cool.

Split eggplant in half lengthwise. Score skin and rub with 1Tbsp. canola

oil. Season lightly with Kosher salt and place on a cookie sheet lined with

parchment paper. Roast at 400 F for 15-20 minutes until very tender. Cool, peel

and coarsely chop flesh.

To assemble hash, mix all vegetables thoroughly. Into heavy cream, mix

all additional ingredients. Pour heavy cream mixture over vegetables, mix

thoroughly and refrigerate overnight to allow flavors to develop.

To serve, heat a sauté pan to medium and film with canola oil. Add desired

amount of hash and cook until steaming hot. Serve with poached eggs.

ingredients:

· Butter | 1440g

· 1 ½ lb. Sweet potatoes, peeled and diced

· 1 lb. Red potatoes, peeled and diced

· ½ lb. Brussels sprouts, fresh or frozen

· 4 Tbsp. Canola oil

· 2 Spanish onion, medium, sliced

· 1 Eggplant, medium

· 2 tsp. Kosher salt

· 1 lb. Corn, frozen kernels

· 1 c. Cream, heavy

· 2 tsp. Oregano, dried

· 2 tsp. Thyme, dried

· 1 Tbsp. Garlic, minced

· 2 Tbsp. Lea and Perrins Worsctershire sauce

· 4 tsp. Tamari, gluten free

· 2 tsp. Black pepper, freshly ground

· 2 tsp. Kosher salt (plus additional)

· 1 Tbsp. Ina’s Dirty Spice Mix (recipe, page )

ina’s vegetable hash

by Ina Pinkney


Wash the chicken and trim any visible fat.

Mix the garlic powder, salt, and pepper into

the buttermilk.

Put the chicken into a 1 gallon self-closing

plastic bag and pour in the buttermilk.

Close the bag, place on a cookie sheet

or into a bowl and refrigerate for 2 hours

or overnight.

Into a large, heavy 6 quart pot, put the oil

and heat over medium heat until it reaches

275°F, using a thermometer.

While the oil is heating, remove the

chicken from the bag and place on a rack

to drain.

For coating, combine flour, garlic powder,

salt and pepper into a large mixing bowl

and combine.

Dredge and press the chicken into the

flour mixture.

Shake off any excess flour. Re-dredge if any

part is missing coverage.

CAREFULLY AND SLOWLY put the

chicken into the hot oil SKIN SIDE

DOWN.

Leave it alone (I’m not kidding!) for 10

minutes. Then you can gently turn the

pieces to keep them separate.

cooking times:Wings: 13-15 minutes,

Legs: 15-17 minutes,

Thighs: 18-20 minutes,

Breasts: 20-25 minutes

If you’re not sure the chicken is done, use

the tip of a sharp knife and poke to see if

the juices run clear or use an instant-read

thermometer, which should read 160°F.

ina’s award-winning fried chicken

by Ina Pinkney

ingredients:

· 2/3 cup sugar

· 2 1/2- 3 pounds chicken- natural or organic cut into 8 pieces

· 1/2 gallon Buttermilk

· 1 tsp. Garlic powder



· 3 quarts Trans fat-free oil (we use Canola)

coating:

· 4 cups Flour, all purpose

· 2 tsp. Garlic powder



90

Yield: about 20 (3 inch) pancakes Preheat oven to 200.

Sift all dry ingredients together in a large mixing bowl

and stir vigorously.

Combine all wet ingredients and mix until well blended. Stir into

flour mixture and blend well without over mixing.

Heat non-stick pan or griddle over medium-high heat and brush

with oil. Pour 1/4 cup of batter onto the griddle for each pancake.

Cook until bubbles appear on the tops - about 3 minutes.

Turn over and cook about 1 minute more.

Place pancakes, uncovered, on a oven-safe platter in the oven until

all pancakes are made.

NOTE: You can find potato starch (not flour) in a box in the Jewish

Food Section of your supermarket. It might also be in the natural

food area.

ingredients:

· 5 oz. flour

· 1/2 cup each - sugar, potato starch * see

note at bottom

· 1/4 cup whole wheat flour

· 1 tsp. each - baking soda, ground ginger,

ground cloves, dry mustard

· 1/4 tsp. pumpkin pie spice

· 1/2 tsp. salt

· 16 oz. buttermilk

· 1/2 cup sour cream

· 2 eggs

· 1/4 cup vegetable oil

· 2 Tbsp. molasses

gingerbread pancakes

by Ina Pinkney


91

- Rub meat evenly with cure and let sit for 9 days wrapped,

preferably in cryo-vac

- Rinse in cold water

- Rub with rub and smoke at 225 degrees to internal

temp of 160 degrees

- Cool completely

ingredients:

· Pork Ham Cuts (roughly 5#/20#) | 1ea | 4ea

· Kosher Salt | 53g | 212g

· Onion Powder | 25g | 100g

· Brown Sugar | 22g | 88g

· Black Pepper | 15g | 60g

· White Pepper | 15g | 60g

· Garlic Powder | 10g | 40g

· Pink Salt #1 | 7g | 24g

· Hot Paprika | 4g | 16g

· Cayenne Pepper | 5g | 20g

· .Allspice | 5g | 2g

tasso ham

by Justin Brunson

rub

· 1c Black Pepper (rough grind)

· 1T Cayenne Pepper

· 2T Garlic Powder


92

tamarind simple syrup:

· 8 tsp. tamarind paste

· 2 cups palm sugar

· Add 3 cups boiling water

ingredients:

· 1 1/2 oz. Tamarind Simple Syrup

· 1 oz. fresh lime juice

· 5 dashes of house-made pomelo bitters

(substitute grapefruit or any citrus bitters)

· Top with Goose Island Sofie

serves 1

tamarind shandy

From Uncle Boon’s, New York, NY


93

tamarind simple syrup:

· 8 tsp. tamarind paste

· 2 cups palm sugar

· Add 3 cups boiling water

Combine sugar and honey in a heavy sauce pot and bring

to a boil, stirring constantly. Stop stirring and bring syrup

to 360°F. Remove from heat and stir in butter and nuts.

Scrape the mixture onto baking sheet lined with lightly oiled

parchment paper. Spread evenly with an oiled spatula, or

press into the pan with a lightly oiled piece of foil. Be careful,

it’s hot! Let cool until set. Chop coarsely.

ingredients:

· 2/3 cup sugar

· 1/2 cup honey

· 1 tablespoon butter

· 1 cup toasted almonds or pistachios

honey nougatine

by Geovanna Salas, Pastry Chef at Table Fifty-Two


94

To bloom gelatin: Completely submerge gelatin sheets in ice water and wait

until they soften, about 5 minutes.

Bring the cream, honey and milk powder to a boil over high heat. Using a

whisk, slowly temper the hot liquid into the egg yolks, making sure not to

curdle the yolks in the process. Add to the cream mixture and cook until it

reaches 82°C or nappe, when the liquid is thick enough that when you run

your finger down the back of the spatula it holds a line.

Remove from heat and strain the mixture into an ice bath (an empty bowl

set over a bowl of ice). Add the bloomed gelatin after about a minute, and

whisk. Chill in the fridge until set.

Mix lightly and portion into cups.

ingredients:

· Egg yolks | 120g

· Local raw honey | 100g

· Cream | 500g

· Nonfat milk powder | 50g

· Gelatin sheets | 8g

milk honey pudding

by Meg Galus, Executive Pastry Chef at Park Hyatt Chicago and NoMI restaurant


95

Cream butter, sugars and honey until light and fluffy. Add

eggs, one at a time, until incorporated. Mix in all sifted dry

ingredients until just combined. Pipe into Madeleine molds

and freeze until ready to bake. Bake at 325°F for 10 minutes,

turn, then bake 4 more minutes until golden brown. Unmold

and dust with confectioners’ sugar.

ingredients:

· Butter | 1440g

· Sugar | 1200g

· Light brown sugar | 160g

· Honey | 240g

· Salt | 16g

· Eggs | 1600g

· Cake flour | 720g

· All-purpose flour | 720g

· Baking powder | 40g

honey madeleines

by Sarah Kosokowski, Corporate Pastry Chef at Valrhona, Inc, Eastern Region


96

Combine milk, cream, vanilla extract, vanilla bean, and honey in a heavy

saucepan over high heat and bring to a boil. Combine sugar, glucose powder, milk

powder, salt and stabilizer in a mixing bowl. Add yolks to the powdery mixture

and temper into hot liquid. Over medium heat and stirring frequently with a

spatula, cook to nappe or until mixture thickens enough that when you run your

finger down the back of the spatula it holds a line. Remove from heat and whisk

in butter until melted. Strain with a fine strainer to catch any bits. Allow to chill.

*For orange ginger ice cream, to 3 liters of honey vanilla ice cream base, add:

· 1 teaspoon orange extract

· Ginger puree | 50g

· Fabbri mandarin delipaste | 170g

ingredients:

· Milk | 2700g

· Cream | 1430g

· Vanilla extract | 25g

· Vanilla beans | 3ea.

· Honey | 550g

· Sugar | 200g

· Glucose powder | 310g

· Milk powder | 170g

· Salt | 8g

· Stabilizer | 12g

· Egg yolks | 840g

· Butter | 225g

honey vanilla ice cream



97

Boil cream, vanilla, and honey in a heavy saucepan over

medium-high heat. Remove from heat and pour over milk

chocolate and mix until smooth. Add softened butter and

burr ??? and mix again until smooth. Pour into two ½ sheet

pans lined with silpat or aluminum foil, shiny side up; let set

overnight before cutting into small pieces.

ingredients:

· 1 cup sliced rhubarb

· Cream | 1400g

· Vanilla bean | 1 ea.

· Honey | 200g

· Milk chocolate | 2kg

· Butter, room temperature | 400g

milk chocolate honey ganache



98

Use any type of red, yellow white or purple (boiling) potatoes you find at

the farmer’s market. Rosemary and sage are sturdier types of herbs and

can hold up to baking. This is a great side dish to accompany pork, beef

or grilled fish.

Preheat oven to 400˚

Toss the potatoes, herbs, and garlic together in a baking dish large

enough to hold them in one layer. Drizzle the olive oil over the potatoes

and give them another toss. Sprinkle a little salt and pepper over the

potatoes (you can always add more later).

Roast for 20 minutes, turn over, then roast another 10-15 minutes or

until browned and soft. Taste for seasoning. Serve piping hot.

ingredients:

· 1 1/2 pounds potatoes (see note above) scrubbed

and cut into 1 1/2-inch chunks

· 2-3 Rosemary sprigs, cut into smaller sprigs and

smashed with the flat side of a knife

· 10 very small sage leaves or large leaves cut into

1/2-inch pieces

· 5 garlic cloves (optional) smashed with the flat

side of a knife

· 4 Tablespoons olive oil

· Kosher salt and fresh ground pepper

serves 4

roasted potatoes with rosemary & sage

by Judith Mara


99

Thaw pastry according to instructions.

With a rolling pin, roll out both pastry sheets on a lightly

floured surface. Roll into 10” x 14” rectangles or 12” x 12”

squares. Transfer one sheet to a large baking sheet. Cut

remaining pastry into 4, 13” long x 2-inch wide strips. Brush an

1-inch perimeter around the pastry on the baking sheet with

egg wash. Twist one of the pastry strips and place on an edge

of the pastry flush with the bottom but leaving about 1-inch of

space on the top. Lightly press ends down. Repeat all around

the pastry until an edge is formed. Brush top with remaining

egg wash. (Use leftover pastry to make cheese or cinnamon

straws.)

Prick the bottom of the pastry with a fork about a dozen times

and spread the mustard across the bottom. Refrigerate at least

15 minutes.

Place oven rack in the middle and preheat oven to 400˚.

While dough is resting, add 1 tablespoon olive oil to a sauté

pan and heat on medium-high. Sauté onion slices until they are

slightly browned, remove from heat.

Top the pastry with the cheese, the tomatoes and the onions.

Bake until golden and crisp and cheese is soft, about 20 minutes.

When pastry is done, remove from oven and top with arugula.

Lift some of the tomatoes and onions up over the arugula. Tart

can be served warm or at room temperature.

* You can also make this with one sheet of puff pastry but

it will be smaller. Instructions: Roll out pastry as instructed

above. Using a sharp knife, lightly score a line around the

pastry, 1-inch in from the edge to create a rim, then prick the

inner rectangle with a fork. Continue as instructed reducing

the amount of toppings.

serves 8

farm market vegetable cheese tart

by Judith Mara

This tart is a real show stopper dish with

fresh vegetables and arugula (yes, arugula,

sometimes called rocket, is an herb) from the

farmer’s market.

ingredients:

· 2 sheets all-butter puff pastry* (Dufour or Trader

Joes are preferred, unless you make your own)

· 1 egg, whisked

· 1 tablespoon whole grain or Dijon mustard

· 1 1/2 cups (give or take a little) grated Gruyere,

sliced Taleggio or 1 cup crumbled goat cheese

· 1 pint small tomatoes such as Sun Gold, cherry

or grape, halved and sprinkled with a touch of salt.

· 1 medium red onion, cut in 1/4-inch slices

· Olive oil

· 1 bunch of arugula or rocket


100

Pre heat oven to 375˚ or heat grill.

Slice tomato in half. With the cut side up, sprinkle with salt and pepper.

Let sit for at least 5 minutes. Meanwhile, chop the herbs, and mix

grated cheese and bread crumbs together in a small bowl. Place tomato

halves on a doubled sheet of foil. Sprinkle tomatoes with chopped herbs

(reserve a small amount for garnish) and then the cheese mixture,

drizzle with a little olive oil and pat down.

If baking, transfer tomatoes on foil to a baking dish and bake for 18-20

minutes. If grilling, close foil around tomatoes. Place to the side of the

grill. Check after 10-15 minutes to see if they are soft. Continue grilling

until done.

Optional serving idea: Drizzle with aged balsamic vinegar.

ingredients:

· 1 beefsteak tomato

· Sea salt and fresh ground pepper

· Handful of fresh, chopped herbs: any

combination of basil, oregano, Italian parsley,

tarragon, arugula or thyme

· 3 tablespoons freshly grated Parmesan or

Pecorino cheese

· 2 tablespoons dry breadcrumbs

· Olive oil

· Aged balsamic vinegar (optional)

serves 2, per tomato

herb stuffed tomatoes

by Judith Mara



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Who's Hungry? Magazine | Late Summer 2013 | No 8