Who's Hungry? Magazine | Late Fall 2013 | No 9

l a t e f a l l 2 0 1 3 N O 0 09

2

FEATURES

2 C O N T E N T S

22

28

Top 5:Savory Pies

Stone Soup:Glamgaiting

20

46

Portrait of a Chef:Lars Kronmark

High Spirits

58 The Art of the Wine Pour

48 Sugar Plum Dreams

06 In Season: Apples

3

4 Contributors

5 Letter from Steve

6 In Season: Apples

20 Portrait of a Chef

22 Top 5: Savory Pies

28 Stone Soup: Glamgating

46 High Spirits

48 Sugar Plum Dreams

58 The Art of the Wine Pour

60 The Cow and the Turkey

72 Eat Your Kale

78 How We Did It

80 Recipe Index

CONTENTS

CONTACTSmedia inquiriesJudith Mara | [email protected]

Deirdre O’Shea | [email protected]

sponsorship opportunitiesDeirdre O’Shea | [email protected]

representationSchumann & Company | www.schumannco.com

[email protected] | 312.432.1702

stephen hamilton 1520 W. Fulton | Chicago, IL 60607

www.stephenhamilton.com

N O 0 09

3C O N T E N T S

78 How We Did It

60

72

The Cow and the Turkey

Eat Your Kale

4 C O N T R I B U T O R S

judith mara | Editor and Writer

Judith has worked with Stephen for almost

seven years and helps to lead the editorial concept

and execution of Who’s Hungry?™ magazine. An

award-winning former creative director for major

ad agencies such as Leo Burnett and J. Walter

Thompson, Judith sweats the details, pens Weather Permitting and

literally hand writes How We Did It.

ian law | Design

Ian designed every aspect of Who’s Hungry?™

magazine with meticulous attention to detail and

typography, and helped turn static images into an

interactive experience. His award-winning design

work has been featured in the pages of Print,

Creativity, How, PDN and Graphic Design USA.

a special thanks to: Bryan Kendall and Airstream of Chicago, Tim Burton, Paula Walters, Buffalo Trace Bourbon, Ashley Mastroianni,

Tricia Schiffmacher, Ina Pinkney, Cece Campise, Ruth Siegel, Michael Anthony, Rick Bayless, Brent Ridge, Josh Kilmer-Purcell, Chad Robertson,

Eric Ripert, John-Gustin Birkitt, Justin Brunson, Lars Kronmark, Tim Havidic, Molly Glackin, Johnny Costello, Benjamin Schiller, Mindy Segal,

Elizabeth Falkner, Della Gossett, Paula Haney, Tom Hamilton, Juan Palomino, Andrew Burkle, Justin Paris, Raymond Barrera, William Smith,

David Raine, Josephine Orba, Walter Moeller

dannielle kyrillos | Writer and Television Commentator

A series judge on Bravo’s Top Chef Just Desserts,

Dannielle is an expert on stylish entertaining, food,

fashion, and travel. She appears regularly on NBC’s

Today and The Nate Berkus Show, as well as on E!

News, BetterTV, CNBC, CNN, and local morning programming in New York

and Philadelphia. For Who’s Hungry?™ magazine, Danielle sought out the

top five savory pies from around the country.

c o n t r i b u t o r s N O 0 0 9

deirdre o’shea | Production Director

If you have worked with Stephen Hamilton,

you’ve worked with Deirdre. Drawing on 15 years

of experience in managing photography studios,

Deirdre has a hand in nearly every aspect of

Stephen’s business. She’s been instrumental in

organizing the magazine’s shoots, sourcing ingredients, and always keeping

production on schedule.

kathryn o’malley | Editor and Writer

Kathryn’s love of food is matched only by her

passion for writing about it; as part of the Who’s

Hungry?™ editorial team, she indulges in a bit of

both. Her popular food blog, dramaticpancake.com,

garners more than 40,000 unique viewers per month

and highlights the people and stories behind great recipes.

audarshia townsend | WriterFueled by an obsession with Chicago’s vibrant

culinary scene, Audarshia Townsend was one of

the first two editors at metromix.com. And while

she continues to write lifestyle features for the

Chicago Tribune, Essence, Los Angeles Times, The

Huffington Post and more, she also connects

with readers through her dining and drinking blog, 312diningdiva.com.

For Who’s Hungry?™ magazine, Audarshia shares a sexy, celebratory

cocktail rooted in the Roaring Twenties.

david sedaris | Humorist, Writer and Radio CommentatorOne of America’s greatest humorists, David Sedaris is

a master of satire and the bestselling author of Barrel

Fever, Me Talk Pretty One Day, Holidays on Ice, and many

more. He is also a playwright and regular commentator

for National Public Radio. For Who’s Hungry?™

magazine, David treats us to a holiday fable in which

barnyard animals take on suspiciously human traits.

Portrait by Hugh Hamrick

5L E T T E R F R O M S T E V E

Once the leaves start falling and the

weather gets cold, I start gearing up for

the holidays–all of the festive food, the

comfort of family and all the unexpected

surprises that come with the season.

LETTER FROM STEVE

As a kid, holiday surprises came wrapped as gifts,

but now I see them as sharing fun and funny

moments. That’s why I am particularly excited

by humorist David Sedaris’s tale, The Cow and

the Turkey. It’s a quirky tale that challenges the

Thanksgiving turkey. Plus, we took a creative

leap and illustrated his story with photographs

and recipes for holiday leftovers from some

great chefs.

It has also been fun to give “sugar plums” a whole

new meaning. Sugar plums will still dance in

children’s heads, but Tim Burton’s sugar plum

persimmon purée is delicious and healthier

than any candy we can think of. In “Sugar

Plum Dreams,” four famous pastry chefs share

exclusive sugar plum holiday desserts.

Speaking of famous chefs, we are refocusing

on the fantastic ideas that they bring to

our magazine readers. We invited chefs Eric

Ripert, Michael Anthony, Rick Bayless and the

Beekman Boys to share with us their best-loved

apple recipes. In “Apples” you’ll relish classic

Caramel Apples, a Fine Apple Tart, Apple-Fennel

Guacamole and more.

You’ve heard of glamping…we had some genuine

fall fun by adding a dash of glamour to tailgating

in “Glamgating”––our latest twist on Stone Soup.

With a gleaming Airstream RV trailer, Buffalo

Trace Bourbon, a roasted pig infused with aged

maple syrup and a guest list including eight of

Chicago’s finest chefs, no one even thought of

asking, Who’s Hungry?

Happiest of holidays from the Who’s Hungry?™

crew. See you in 2014!

STEVE, DEIRDRE, IAN, JUDITH,

KATHRYN AND CECE

6 I N S E A S O N : A P P L E S

IN SEASON

The season’s most seductive fruit is ripe

for the picking, dangling from the treetops

like so many colorful, shining ornaments.

But what to do with all that bounty? For

answers both sweet and savory, we turned

to six of the country’s most inspiring chefs,

who served up everything from comforting

caramel apples to unconventional—yet

nonetheless incredible—guacamole.

b y

K AT H RY N O ’ M A L L E Y

7P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y S T E P H E N H A M I LT O N


View recipe on page 80 »

caramel apples


The apple is the most diverse food plant in the

world, with over 2,500 varieties grown in the

United States. They come in all different sizes,

textures and flavors, with a range of colors

including red, green, yellow and russet (meaning

they’re covered in a slightly rough, brownish

skin). Russet types may not be the prettiest, but

they often have excellent flavor.

Caramel ApplesNo one does modern vintage quite like

the Beekman Boys, Josh Kilmer-Purcell

and Brent Ridge—and for proof, look no

further than their latest cookbook,

The Beekman 1802 Heirloom Dessert

Cookbook. The beautiful nod to nostalgia

is brimming with decadent recipes for

old-time favorites like lemon meringue

pie, blackberry betty and, of course,

caramel apples. We can’t get enough of

the salted peanuts set against the sweet

caramel coating.

Josh Kilmer-Purcell &

Brent Ridge


The best baking apples offer a nice balance of

sweet and tart flavors as well as flesh that won’t

break down as they cook. For a dessert with more

complex flavor and texture, try mixing a few

varieties—Granny Smith, Honeycrisp, Pink Lady

(Cripps Pink), Mutsu (Crispin), Golden Delicious

and Gala are all great choices.



gramercy tavern apple pie

12

Bohemian Apple Layer CakeThe co-owner of San Francisco’s Tartine Bakery with his

wife Elisabeth Prueitt, Chad Robertson makes some of

the best—if not the best—bread in America. But he also

crafts some pretty insane desserts. Try this fragrant,

autumnal beauty (from Robertson’s new cookbook,

Tartine Book No. 3) that’s sweetened with prunes and

raisins; spiced with cinnamon, cloves and nutmeg;

layered with apple butter and prune compote; and

finished with a smooth cider frosting.

I N S E A S O N : A P P L E S

Chad Robertson



Fine Apple Tart You know that any recipe from four-star Le

Bernardin chef Eric Ripert is going to be a good

one, but if it brings together butter, sugar,

apples and pastry dough—all the better. This

elegant apple tart is made even more special

with the addition of a small amount of apple

brandy, called Calvados, in the glaze.

Eric Ripert



eric ripert’s fine apple tart

16

Apple picking season begins in late August

and lasts through November. But because

they keep well in cold storage, locally

grown apples can be found well into

winter. Of note, the fruit will ripen six to

10 times faster at room temperature than

if stored in the refrigerator.

I N S E A S O N : A P P L E S

17

Apple-Fennel GuacamoleWholly guacamole! That’s all we could say about

this adventurous twist on a dip that subs apple for

tomato, fennel for onion, and thyme for cilantro.

Grab a bag of chips and prepare to have your mind

blown—from chef Rick Bayless, we’d expect no less.

P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y S T E P H E N H A M I LT O N

Rick Bayless

View recipe by Rick Bayless on page 84 »

apple-fennel guacamole

I N S E A S O N : A P P L E S18

Executive Chef Michael Anthony is the driving force

behind the iconic Gramercy Tavern, and with the release

of The Gramercy Tavern Cookbook, his simple yet striking

dishes are now even more accessible. In this one, a

garnish of diced apples lends a perfectly crisp finish to a

vibrant seasonal soup.

Michael Anthony



red kuri squash soup with brussels sprouts and apples

20

P O R T R A I T O F A

CHEFb y K AT H RY N O ’ M A L L E Y

Lars Kronmark

20 P O R T R A I T O F A C H E F : L A R S K R O N M A R K


Despite straddling two challenging

worlds as chef and teacher, Lars

Kronmark has proven adept at

handling both. In August of 1995,

he was selected from among

the finest culinary educators in

the United States to open the

Culinary Institute of America at

Greystone. Since then, he has

spearheaded new programs for

industry professionals; contributed

annually to the Worlds for Flavors

International Conference and

Festival; traveled extensively for

international education projects;

and, of course, continued to make

exceptional food.

As a teacher, Chef Kronmark may

be used to asking questions—but

today the tables are turned as

our previously featured chef,

Justin Brunson, quizzes him on

his evolving career, favorite food

towns, the country’s greatest

chefs and more.

from the beginning of your career to the present, what would you say has changed most about working in a kitchen? I think the technology, for sure. In the past, I must

have made a thousand things the hard way. Certain

things were done simply because that’s how it

always was. But today there are a lot of tools and

resources available to make things a little bit easier.

who do you consider to be the top 5 chefs in america?It seems hard to give five names when we are so

saturated with great chefs in an era of amazing

food. I believe there are talented chefs in every state,

many of whom never get the exposure they deserve.

Go find them!

what are your favorite new food towns in america?I kind of love southern Mississippi, New Orleans

and Memphis.

what is your earliest food memory?My dad was a hunter back in Denmark, and my mum

cooked pheasant in a sauce made with mushrooms,

bacon and red currants. It was to die for.

what will be served at your last meal?Coastal Italian seafood like mussels, clams and raw tuna,

with tons of lemon juice, olive oil and garlic. I’d eat it

wearing nothing more than my swim pants, and a glass

of cold white wine from the north of Venice in my hand.

T O P 5 : S AV O RY P I E S

b y D A N N I E L L E K Y R I L L O S

22

savory pies

TOP 5

23P H OTO G R A P H Y B Y S T E P H E N H A M I LTO N

One of the innumerable reasons potpie is so

beloved by so many is that by definition, it can

encompass almost anything. It is a stew of

leftovers, of vegetables and often meat, with

crust. Anything needing saving from waste gets

thrown under the lid. Which is why a slight twist

on a traditional escargot preparation becomes

like six tiny potpies, fancifully fit for forest

gnomes and brunch-lovers alike. The butter and

garlic are the broth, and the escargots definitely

prefer these hats to their old shells. Church and

State is one of the best American iterations of the

French bistro, a pioneer in downtown Los Angeles.

It is somehow industrial, airy, cozy and convivial,

and by giving each snail in an order its own pot

and piecrust, it makes two antique peasant dishes

fresh and frisky.

Dannielle Kyrillos, a series judge

on Bravo’s Top Chef Just Desserts

and expert on all things food

and entertaining, shares her five

favorite Savory Pies from around

the country.

Portrait by Peter Hurley

1 escargots de bourgogne en croûte CHURCH AND STATE

1850 INDUSTRIAL ST., #100

LOS ANGELES, CA 90021

212.405.1434

WWW.CHURCHANDSTATEBISTRO.COM

24 T O P 5 : S AV O RY P I E S

lancaster-style “sticky” pot pie PLAIN & FANCY FARM RESTAURANT

3121 OLD PHILADELPHIA PIKE

BIRD-IN-HAND, PA 17505

WWW.PLAINANDFANCYFARM.COM

1.800.669.3568

Anyone from anywhere near Central

Pennsylvania will describe the horror they felt

upon learning that most of the country thinks

“potpie” has a light, flaky crust. In our minds,

potpie has no light or crust-related aspects, and

its defining characteristic is thick, wet, dumpling-

esque noodles that are like kisses from a very

snuggly Labrador. These doughy ribbons swim

in a very yellow, gravy-like chicken broth that

2simmers for hours on end with shreds and

chunks of chicken, carrots, corn and celery. It

might be where the phrases “stick to your ribs”

and “cure what ails you” originated. The charming

and old-school Plain and Fancy is in the heart

of Amish country and its potpie exemplifies this

style. Fair warning: It is hard to recalibrate potpie

perspective after tasting this kind.


fraunces tavern pot pieFRAUNCES TAVERN | 54 PEARL ST. | NEW YORK, NY 10004 | 212.968.1776

WWW.FRAUNCESTAVERN.COM

3Classic. Crusty. Colonial. Fitting descriptors of

both chicken potpie and perhaps the very best

setting in which to enjoy it, Fraunces Tavern.

Potpie is one of America’s oldest culinary

marvels, and it’s rumored to have been George

Washington’s favorite dish. In this very spot, one

of New York City’s longest-standing structures,

the founding father bid his loyal officers farewell

in 1783. It’s debatable whether potpie was served

that evening, but it is now, and it’s everything

the category should be: flaky, creamy and hearty.

The very traditional version stands on its own

merit, but taken in these woody, fireplace-strewn

environs it is an archetype. Food snobs might

care that a Dublin-based mini-chain runs the

restaurant, but that in no way detracts from an

authenticity every new restaurant seems to try so

hard to create from whole cloth.

SMOG (steak, onion, mushroom, gruyère)

DANGEROUSLY DELICIOUS PIES | 1339 H ST. NE | WASHINGTON, DC 20002 | 202.398.7437

WWW.DANGEROUSPIESDC.COM

If, like front man and head baker Rodney Henry,

you toured with a rock band and also knew how

to make extremely choice piecrust, SMOG is

precisely what you’d whip up after a long stretch

on the road. It tastes like home: sweet roasted

onions, earthy mushrooms, soothing cream,

meaty steak, melty Gruyère. To work with that

lineup, the crust has to be substantial but giving,

T O P 5 : S AV O RY P I E S26

and it is. It is toothsome crust perfection. SMOG

envelopes you and gets stuck in your head and

is what you crave on a cold or sad day, catchy

but substantial like a good song—not surprising

coming from a musician such as Henry. His pie

empire has grown to include outlets around DC

and in Baltimore and he’s taken a spin on TV, but

everything he sells is still made by hand.

4

Kind of like the musicians who play

every night at The Family Wash in uber-

hip East Nashville, savory pies are the

underappreciated heroes of supper. There’s

nothing flashy about them, they haven’t

brought anyone riches or fame (Marie

Callender does NOT count!) and their guts

are a hodgepodge of yesterday’s glory, but

they make your soul warm. Served in those

crinkly tin pans and hatted with luscious

mashed potatoes and an endearing

amount of really sharp cheddar, these

5shepherd’s pies turn the dive-y setting

and accompanying tunes into the spirit-

nourishing backdrop for a really good

alt-country movie. Especially on Tuesdays,

when a pint of good beer and a pie are ten

bucks. There’s a lamb and beef version

and a lentil-based vegetarian pie that has

turned more than one carnivore, and like

every other situation in life where roasted

garlic is an option, “yes” is the right answer

to that one.

27P H OTO G R A P H Y B Y S T E P H E N H A M I LTO N

5shepherd’s pieTHE FAMILY WASH

2038 GREENWOOD AVE.

NASHVILLE, TN 37206

615.226.6070

WWW.FAMILYWASH.COM

shepherd’s pie

STONE SOUP28 S T O N E S O U P | G L A M G AT I N G

glamgatingb y

J U D I T H M A R A


Glamgating is what happens when

you add a dash of glamour to your

traditional tailgate—with sensational

results. It is also the latest twist on

our Stone Soup feature, a semi-regular

series based on the iconic tale of

villagers coming together to create a

grand meal that feeds the entire town.

S T O N E S O U P | G L A M G AT I N G30

Rain and chilly weather was predicted,

but the Midwest likes its curveballs: The

sun came piercing through the skyline

at the very last minute, and it turned out

to be the kind of autumn afternoon that

Chicagoans can’t resist. It was a great day

for sporting newbies and football fans alike

to mingle together and enjoy the outdoors.

Because it’s tailgating season, a

“glamgating” party seemed to be the

perfect way to mix things up at our latest

Stone Soup gathering. Of course, it took

some planning to get that “glam” part

in place—we wanted to make sure this

tailgate was unlike anything our guests

had ever experienced. To that end, all

the stops were pulled: a gleaming new

Airsteam trailer; a roasted pig infused with

aged maple syrup; an amazing guest list

including eight of Chicago’s finest chefs;

over twenty side dishes and desserts

contributed by the chefs and other guests;

hot apple cider spiked with Buffalo Trace

Bourbon; and a surprise guest of honor––

the venerable TV anchor, Bill Kurtis.


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4

1. Stephen Hamilton | 2. Tim Burton – Maple Wood Farm | 3. Giuseppe Tentori – Executive Chef GT Oyster & Boka Chicago | 4. Michael Shenfeld

– Real Estate Consultant | 5. Kate Bernot – Nightlife Reporter Red Eye | 6. Mike Mech – The Bungalow Chef | 7. Carol Mackey – Living60010

Website | 8. Joe Campise | 9. Ashley Mastroianni – Buffalo Trace Brand Ambassador | 10. Chef Dale Levitski | 11. Linda Levy | 12.Yervant

Chalkagian | 13. JuneElise Marsigan – Room 1520 Venue Manager | 14. Greg Burton – son of Tim Burton | 15. Chris Bishop | 16. Dave Mackey –

Former Blackhawk Player | 17. Chrissie Mena | 18. Haley Lertola – Room 1520 Venue Manager | 19. Bryan Kendall – Airstream Repsentative |

20. Stan Revas | 21. Ina Pinkney – “Breakfast Queen”, Owner and Chef of Ina’s | 22. Doug Wilson | 23. Judith Dunbar-Hines | 24. Michael Fiddler –

Executive Chef Trump | 25. Maggie Revas | 26. Deirdre O’Shea – Producer for Stephen Hamilton | 27. George Campise | 28. Rodelio Aglibot – The

Food Buddha & Chef-Owner E+O Food and Drink | 29. Cliff Etters | 30. Ray Anguiani – Mixologist Atwood Cafe | 31. Derek Simcik – Executive

Chef Atwood Cafe | 32. Bill Kurtis – Tall Grass Beef | 33. Karl Helfrich – Pastry Chef European Imports

S T O N E S O U P | G L A M G AT I N G

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18 19

13 14

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P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y S T E P H E N H A M I LT O N | G L A M G A I T I N G P O R T R A I T S B Y J U S T I N PA R I S

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S T O N E S O U P | G L A M G AT I N G34


Friends of WH? came from far and near.

First to arrive was Tim Burton of Burton’s

Maplewood Farm. Tim came all the way

from Medora, Indiana, bearing the gift

of a 45-pound pig and his La Caja China

(pronounced la caha cheena) pig roaster.

With a three-hour head start on smoking

the pig, Tim filled the parking lot with the

warm, smoky scent of maple and pork.

Meanwhile, Bryan Kendall of Airstream

of Chicago in Joliet, Illinois, hitched up a

new International Serenity RV trailer—a

gorgeous silver backdrop for the feast that

was about to unfold.

36

We love to see the magic that happens

when chefs, food ambassadors and regular

cooks contribute a dish to the same table.

As always, the results were astonishing:

bulgur wheat and Brussels sprouts salads,

fresh spinach and artichoke dip, hot beef

and vegetable stews, red wine caramel

glazed apples, oatmeal cookies, banana

bread, baklava and a glorious apple,

persimmon and cranberry crisp. Slowly, a

fall food theme emerged that had nothing

to do with typical football fare.

S T O N E S O U P | G L A M G AT I N G


38 S T O N E S O U P | G L A M G AT I N G



Introductions were made as soon as dishes

were handed off and cocktails were poured.

Chefs enjoyed reconnecting with other

chefs they don’t see very often. Everyone

was happy to see chef Rodelio Aglibot (TLC,

Food Buddha) and congratulate him on his

newest restaurant. It was also fun to see

chef Dale Levitski (Top Chef alum) the day

after he returned from a cooking-filled

summer in Montana. Plus, he brought the

most gorgeous vegetable market salad ever

seen in a concrete parking lot.


Chef Ina Pinkney (Ina’s, Taste Memories)

reigned over the crowd and treated

everyone to pumpkin cheesecake and

heirloom tomato bruschetta. New dad,

chef Giuseppe Tentori (GT Fish & Oyster,

BOKA), went super-casual with a creamy

and very cheesy shrimp mac and cheese

that appealed to the child in all of us. Chef

Michael Mech (Bungalow Chef) outdid

himself with his grandmother’s German

potato salad.



But the real showstopper—even in the

eyes of the seasoned professionals—was

the moment when Tim Burton and his

son pulled the golden, glistening whole

pig from its roasting box and carried it

ceremoniously to the carving table. The

pig was moist and juicy, the salted meat

blending flawlessly with sweet maple syrup.

Thirty pounds of tender pork disappeared

fast––snout, cheeks, ears and all.

We can’t do it every year—and at some

point we’ll have to settle for beer and

chicken wings—but that’s exactly what

made this glamgate so special.


45

GLAMGATING MENU WHOLE ROAST PIG

Tim Burton (Burton’s Maplewood Farms)

CHINESE ALMOND COOKIES

Sam Jorden (graphic designer)

MARKET VEGETABLE SALAD

Chef Dale Levitski

(Sprout, Frog & Tail, Top Chef runner up)

BULGUR WHEAT SALAD

Carol Hojem Mackey

(The Suburban Epicurean, food editor Living60010)

BUFFALO TRACE HOT CIDER

Ashley Mastroianni (Buffalo Trace Bourbon)

and Taylor Ortiz

GERMAN POTATO SALAD

RED WINE CARAMEL GLAZED APPLES

Chef Michael Mech (Bungalow Chef)

OATMEAL COOKIES

Chrissie Mena (founder/president of Living60010)

HEIRLOOM TOMATO BRUSCHETTA

PUMPKIN CHEESECAKES

Ina Pinkney (Ina’s Restaurant, Taste Memories)

MINI BANANA BREADS

Meg Saherlie (owner of In Stitches)

MAC AND CHEESE WITH SHRIMP

Chef Giuseppe Tentori (BOKA, GT Fish & Oyster)

BEEF STEW & VEGETABLE STEW

Doug Wilson (foodie groupie and HR professional)

SPINACH AND ARTICHOKE DIP

BRUSSELS SPROUT SALAD

APPLE PERSIMMON AND CRANBERRY CRISP

The Who’s Hungry? Kitchens


4646 H I G H S P I R I T S : B E G I N N I N G T O E N D

b y

A U D A R S H I A T O W N S E N D

HIGH SPIRITS

At Chicago’s Berkshire Room, located in

the trendy River North neighborhood,

the craft cocktail lounge pays homage to

the 1920’s in décor and drinks. The bar’s

interior boasts its predecessor’s original

terrazzo composite flooring as well as

steel shutters from a Kentucky bourbon

distillery. And the menu, of course,

effortlessly dances between classic and

contemporary elixirs, with the “barrel

finished” cocktail list offering up some

satisfying gems.

Of note is the newest addition, Beginning

to End, made with rum, scotch and rye

and aged approximately four to seven

months in Atlantico rum barrels. Created

by Berkshire bartender Johnny Costello,

the celebratory sipper boasts the type of

back story that would put a smile on Al

Capone’s face.

BEGINNING to END

With this year’s reboot of The Great Gatsby and the continuing popularity

of HBO’s Boardwalk Empire, Americans remain fascinated with the Roaring

Twenties. The romanticizing of a colorful era filled with images of flirty

flappers, dangerously dapper gangsters and Prohibition never seems to go

away—especially when it comes to cocktails.

According to Berkshire Room partner

Benjamin Schiller, Costello came

up with the name of the cocktail as

he traced the travels of a barrel’s

“beginning to end.” In the United States

it’s illegal to use barrels more than once

to age spirits (e.g., gin, vodka, whiskey),

but bartenders skirt around the law by

aging cocktails in used casks.

The time Beginning to End spent in

the Atlantico rum barrels produces

richer, heavier nuances, says Schiller.

The finished product arrives to the

customer in a coupe, showcasing a

deep, mahogany hue.

47

Amended recipe by Johnny Costello on page 86 »

beginning to end


BERKSHIRE ROOM | JOHNNY COSTELLO15 E. OHIO ST. | CHICAGO, IL 60611

LOBBY LEVEL OF ACME HOTEL

WWW.THEBERKSHIREROOM.COM

312.894.0800

48 S U G A R P L U M D R E A M S48

. . .

E X C E R P T F R O M

The Sugar-Plum Tree by Eugene Field

1850 -1895

Sugar Plum Dreams

. . .

Persimmon Desserts That Will Dance In Your Head

b y

JUDITH MARA w i t h TIM BURTON

· Have you ever heard of the Sugar-Plum Tree? ‘T is a m

arvel of great renown! It bloom

s on the shore of the Lollipop sea · In the garden of Shut-Eye Town; The fruit that it bears is so wondrou

sly sw

eet ·

(A

s th

ose

who

hav

e ta

sted

it

say)

· T

hat

good

litt

le c

hild

ren

have

onl

y to

eat ·

Of t

hat fruit t

o be happy next day

49P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y S T E P H E N H A M I LT O N 49

What are Sugar

Plums?

For almost two hundred years, children have anticipated the

night before Christmas with visions of sugar plums dancing

in their heads. The Sugar Plum Fairy, ruler of the Land of

Sweets in Tchaikovsky’s Nutcracker Ballet, dances with

sweets from all over the world. And Chicago writer Eugene

Field wrote a famous children’s poem The Sugar-Plum Tree

during the same era. Sugar plums were obviously something

outstanding, but nobody really knows exactly what they are.

50

Children from long ago dreamt about

sugar plums like today’s kids dream

about Nerds and Skittles. So, many

people have assumed that sugar plums

were a type of candy or dragée. Others

have concluded that they were a dried

plum rolled in sugar.

Then it was recognized that historically

all sweet dried fruits were referred

to as plums (plum pudding anyone?).

In England, as far back as the 17th

century, the word “plum” was thought to

comprehensively mean sweet, delectable

or delightful.

The children were nestled all snug in their beds,

While visions of sugar-plums danced in their heads.

And mamma in her ‘kerchief, and I in my cap,

Had just settled our brains for a long winter’s nap. . . .

E X C E R P T F R O M

A Visit from St. Nicholas by Clement Clark Moore

1822

S U G A R P L U M D R E A M S


View recipe by Mindy Segal on page 88 »

sugar plum and smoked almond linzer squares with spiced butterscotch cream

52 S U G A R P L U M D R E A M S

53

sticky toffee sugar plum pudding and sugar plum gelato

View recipe by Elizabeth Falkner on page 90 »


There are many words people use to

describe the flavor of a persimmon.

Pastry Chef Mindy Segal sums it up this

way, “[A persimmon] tastes like a cross

between a quince and a under ripe pear”.

Grower Tim Burton says, “I’ve had two

people say the flavor takes them back

to the flavor of a Creamsicle”. We’ve

also heard they taste like apricots and

mangos or both. All this means is they

have a mild flavor of their own and are

very sweet––a lot like what you’d think a

sugar plum would taste like.

American persimmons are related to

Hachiya persimmons, the heart-shaped

variety that is common in grocery stores,

and should be handled in the same

way. The fruit needs to be super ripe

and extremely soft to the touch before

extracting the pulp. If all you can get

are firm persimmons you must let them

undergo the bletting (sit until they are

over ripe) process for a few days. Some

people remove the skins, others only

remove the seeds before puréeing.

To Purchase Burton’s Sugar

Plum Pureé online visit:

www.burtonsmaplewoodfarm.com

American Persimmon

Basics


Jumping across the Atlantic Ocean,

American colonists were introduced

to new varieties of “plums” by Native

Americans. William Strachey, the first

Secretary of The Colony, was the first to

connect American persimmons grown

on our soil to “plombs” (plums) in his

manuscript titled Historie of Travaile

into Virginia Britania, written in 1612.

“They have a plomb (plum) which they call

pessemmins (persimmon), like to a medler

(fruit) ... they grow on a most high tree.

When they are not fully ripe, they are harsh

and choakie, and furre (fur) in a man’s

mouth ... howbeit, being taken fully ripe, yt

is a reasonable pleasant fruict, somewhat

lushious. I have seene our people put them

into their baked and sodden puddings; there

be whose taste that allows them to be as

pretious (precious) as the English apricock;

I confesse it is a good kind of horse plomb.”

Strachey very accurately described

this mysterious fruit, even though

through time American persimmons

have evolved into a bigger, sweeter

cultivar. And, between being a “plum”

(sweet) and a “plomp” (plum), it is

understandable how today’s growers

such as Tim Burton of Maplewoods

Farm in Medora, Indiana fondly call

American persimmons sugar plums.


sugar plum panna cotta with bourbon barrel aged maple syrup

View recipe by Della Gossett on page 87 »

56

Not even knowing the complete history,

Tim and his family have always thought

of the persimmons that grow on their

farm as sugar plums for very good

reasons.

Their sugar plums are harvested from

October through December. It is no

accident that this fruit is harvested

around the holidays when they plop to

the ground, because persimmons cannot

be eaten unripe. If you do, you’ll never

forget the experience.

The acute astringency of a persimmon

will wick all the moisture from your

mouth in just one bite.

But don’t let that intimidate you. If you

can get ahold of tree-fallen persimmons,

store-bought persimmons that you

have bletted (let sit) until crinkled and

overripe, or frozen persimmon purée,

you will have sugar plums dancing in

your head with sugary pleasure.

Replace our pumpkin pie at Thanksgiving?

Some think that is sacrilegious. Others

think persimmon purée is the best thing

that happened to holiday desserts since

pumpkin. To find out what expert chefs

think, Tim sent four famous pastry chefs

some of his sugar plum purée to create

holiday desserts.

For all four chefs this was the first time

using American persimmon purée in

a recipe, and all four were more than

pleased that sugar plums really do grow

on trees.

“We forgo the traditional pumpkin

pie for my wife Angie’s sugar plum

pie or pudding; everyone can’t wait

for the holidays because of these,”

says Tim.



Amended recipe by Paula Haney on page 92 »

persimmon pie

T H E A R T O F T H E W I N E P O U R

The Art of the

Wine Pour

58

Everyone knows that there’s an art to making wine—but what about

capturing it on camera? How do you turn the wine pour itself into a

piece of art? To portray the magic of wine in a single shot, you need

to stimulate the viewer’s senses and most importantly, convey a

sense of movement. Here’s how.

BACKLIGHTING

Lighting directed towards

the camera, from behind the

glass, gives the wine a lovely,

glowing hue.

FLAVOR CUES

A barrel in the background of

the photo grounds the scene and

suggests rich notes of oak.

SPECIAL EFFECTS

A custom rig, created by Geoff Binns-

Calvey, pumps wine continuously through

the bottom of a wine bottle and into a

special wine glass. Although you can’t

see it, there’s a small tube connected to

the bottom of the glass that lets Geoff

control how high—or how low—the wine

flows. This, of course, makes timing the

photo much easier.

b y

K AT H RY N O ’ M A L L E Y


Wine Pour

59

60 T H E C O W A N D T H E T U R K E Y B Y DAV I D S E DA R I S60

In this allegorical tale from famed humorist David Sedaris, an

innocent turkey has the last laugh over the selfish, greedy cow

who didn’t get him anything for Christmas. But as most of us

(hopefully) know, the holiday season is less about taking and

more about sharing, connection and generosity. That means if

you’re serving dinner for family and friends, you’re probably

going to plan for too much food. And that, of course, means

plenty of leftovers just waiting to be reinvented.

The Cow

Turkeyand the

b y D AV I D S E D A R I S

intro and captions by Kathryn O’Malley


62

The cow was notoriously cheap. So it

surprised everyone when she voted, yes,

for the secret Santa program. It was the

horse’s suggestion and she backed it

immediately saying, “I choose the turkey.”

“That’s not exactly the way it works,”

the pig explained. “It’s secret, see? So

we each draw a name and keep it to

ourselves until Christmas morning.”

“Why do you have to be like that?” the

cow asked.

And the duck sighed, “Here we go.”

“First you ask me to give someone a

Christmas present,” the cow continued,

“And then you tell me it has to be done

your way. Like, oh, I have four legs so I’m

better than everyone else.”

“Don’t you have four legs?” the pig asked.

“All right, just because you have a curly

tail,” the cow said. The pig tried looking

behind him. But all he could see were his

sides.

“Is it curly, curly?” he asked the rooster,

“Or curly, kinky?”

“The point is that I’m a little tired of being

pushed around,” the cow said. “I think a lot

of us are.” This was her all over. So rather

than spending the next week listening to

her complain, it was decided that the cow

would give to the turkey and that everyone

else would keep their name a secret.

There were, of course, no shops in the

barnyard, which was a shame as all of

the animals had money—coins mainly,

dropped by the farmer and his children as

they went about their chores. The cow once

had close to $3 and gave it to a calf the

farmer planned on taking into town.

T H E C O W A N D T H E T U R K E Y B Y DAV I D S E DA R I S

63

“I want you to buy me a knapsack,”

she told him, “Just like the one that the

farmer’s daughter has, only bigger and

blue instead of green. Can you remember

that?” The calf had tucked the money

into his cheek before being led out of the

barn. “And wouldn’t you know it,” the

cow later complained, “Isn’t it just my

luck that he never came back?”

She’d spent the first few days of his

absence in a constant, almost giddy,

state of anticipation. Watching the barn

door, listening for the sound of the truck,

waiting for that knapsack, something

that would belong only to her. When it no

longer made sense to hope, she turned

to self-pity then rage. The calf had taken

advantage of her, had spent her precious

money on a bus ticket and boarded

thinking, so long, sucker.

It was a consolation then to overhear

the farmer talking to his wife and learn

that taking an animal into town was a

euphemism for hitting him in the head

with an electric hammer. So long, sucker.


6464

Milking put the cow in close proximity to

humans, much closer than any of the other

animals. And she learned a lot by keeping

her ears open—local gossip, the rising cost

of fuel oil, and countless little things, the

menu for Christmas dinner, for instance.

The family had spent Thanksgiving visiting

the farmer’s mother in her retirement

home and had eaten what tasted like

potato chips soaked in chicken fat. Now

they were going to make up for it. “Big

time,” the farmer’s wife said. And with all

the trimmings.



66

The turkey didn’t know that he would

be killed on Christmas Eve. No one did,

except for the cow. That’s why she’d

specifically chosen his name for the

secret Santa program. It got her off the

hook and made it more fun to watch his

pointless, fidgety enthusiasm.

“You’ll never in a million years guess

what I got you,” she said to him a day

after the names were drawn.

“Is it a bath mat?” the turkey asked. He’d

seen one hanging on the clothesline and

was obsessed with it for some reason.

“It’s a towel for the floor,” he kept telling

everyone. “I mean really, isn’t that just the

greatest idea you ever heard in your life?”

“Oh, this is a lot better than a bath mat,”

the cow said, chuckling as the turkey

sputtered, “No way,” and “What could

possibly be better than a bath mat?”

“You’ll see come Christmas morning,”

she told him.


View recipe by John-Gustin Birkitt on page 93 »

twice baked potatoes


TWICE BAKED POTATOES

This isn’t your mother’s baked

potato. Chef John-Gustin Birkitt

incorporates everything good into

these stellar, twice-baked spuds:

crème fraîche, ricotta, eggs, bacon

and freshly grated Parmesan cheese.

68

NEW MEXICAN GREEN CHILE TURKEY

Justin Brunson drew on flavors like chile,

cumin and lime to create this Southwestern

spin on turkey, perfect for nestling into

warm tortillas and topping with cheddar,

sour cream and cilantro.


View recipe by Justin Brunson on page 94 »

new mexico green chile turkey


Most of the animals were giving food

as their secret Santa gift. No one came

out and actually said it, but the cow had

noticed them setting a little aside. Not

just scraps, but the best parts—oats from

the horse, thick crusts of bread from

the pig. Even the rooster—who was the

biggest glutton of all—had managed to

sacrifice and had stockpiled a fistful of

grain behind an empty gas can in the far

corner of the barn.

He and the others were surely hungry,

yet none of them complained about it.

And this bothered the cow more than

anything. How could they be so corny? She

looked at the pig who sat smiling in his pen

and then at the turkey who’d hung a sprig

of mistletoe from the end of his waddle

and was waltzing across the floor saying,

“Any takers?” Even to other guys. It was his

cheerfulness that irritated her the most.

And so, on the morning of Christmas Eve

she pulled him aside for a little talk about

the future.

“The farmer will be cutting your head

off at around noon,” she said. “His son

wanted him to use a chainsaw, but he’s a

traditionalist so we’ll probably be sticking

with the axe.” The turkey laughed, thinking

it was a joke. But then he saw the pleasure

in the cow’s face and knew that she was

telling the truth.

“How long have you known?” he asked.

“A few weeks,” the cow told him. “I meant

to tell you earlier, but what with all the

excitement, I guess I forgot.”

“Kill me and eat me?” The cow nodded. The

turkey removed the mistletoe from the end

of his waddle. “Well, golly,” he said, “Don’t I

feel stupid?”

Not wanting to spoil anyone’s Christmas,

the turkey announced that he would be

spending the holiday with relatives, “The

wild side of the family,” he said, “Just flew in

last night from Kentucky.”

When noon arrived and the farmer showed

up, he followed him out of the barn without

complaint saying, “So long everyone,” and

“See you in a few days.” They all waved

goodbye except for the cow, who lowered

her head toward her empty trough. She

was just thinking that a little extra food

might be nice when a horrible thought

occurred to her.

The rooster was standing in the doorway

and she almost trampled him on her

way outside shouting, “Wait, come back.

Whose name did you draw?”

“Say, what?” the turkey said.

“I said, whose name did you get?

Who’s supposed to receive your

secret Santa present?”

“You’ll see,” the turkey said, his voice

a little song that hung in the air long

after he disappeared.

70 T H E C O W A N D T H E T U R K E Y B Y DAV I D S E DA R I S


THANKSGIVING PUDDING

Chef Tim Havidic is used to pushing

the boundaries at Chicago’s

renowned restaurant iNG—short

for “imagining new gastronomy.”

But when it comes to Thanksgiving

comfort food, his approach is a bit

more relaxed; all you need are a

few simple ingredients to totally

transform your leftover turkey and

dinner rolls.

View recipe by Tim Havidic on page 95 »

thanksgiving pudding

72 E AT YO U R K A L E72

EAT your KALEWEATHER PERMITTING

b y J U D I T H M A R A


TEN YEARS AGO you never heard much

about kale. Yes, it was chopped and tossed

into some Asian dishes, soups and sautéed

greens, but I for one certainly didn’t know

it was kale. And it was not something

mothers nagged kids into eating by saying,

eat your kale, it will make you big and

strong. Actually, the first time I recall

recognizing kale, it was planted next to fall

mums in a flower box.

Now kale is loved, revered and cooked

in every conceivable way. Scores of

American chefs, bloggers, farmers,

cooks and health gurus have turned us

into believers, making kale almost as

common as lettuce. Kale, the antioxidant,

anti-inflammatory, anti-cancer, anti-

cholesterol superfood is everything we

want in a vegetable. Plus, it tastes good.

74

WITH A MILD FLAVOR when raw and a gentle cabbage taste

when cooked, kale is versatile and easy to

prepare, which is possibly another reason

it has taken off to the extreme. When you

see kale piled high next to squash and

pumpkins, it is prime kale harvest time at

the farmer’s markets and green grocers.

Once the frost hits, kale still in the ground

gets sweeter and milder. If you are a first-

time kale eater, this is the time to try it.

Kale is a humble vegetable that is

related to cabbage and broccoli. It’s not

like heirloom tomatoes (yet), where there

are suddenly a multitude of varieties

with cute names. There are only a few

varieties of kale readily available. Most

common is curly kale (aka green kale),

which you can find almost anywhere

vegetables are sold. It is a sturdy variety

with the strongest flavor when cooked.

Our favorite is the tender cavolo nero, or

Tuscan kale (aka dinosaur kale, black kale).

Its long, slender, green-black leaves are

more delicate and have less bitterness

than curly kale. At farmer’s markets you

can also find Siberian or Russian kale,

which (no surprise) is the most cold hardy

and has a cabbage-pepper taste. Flowering

kale (aka Kamome kale) is very pretty

with white to purple center leaves. While

it is edible, it is also very bitter and is best

used as a floral accent.

74 E AT YO U R K A L E


SOME KALE BASICS

When buying kale, choose bunches with

small to medium, deep green leaves, because

small leaves will be more tender and milder-

tasting than large ones. Store in a plastic bag

in the coldest part of the fridge for three to

five days. Don’t wash until ready to use.

Before cooking, strip the center ribs

out of the larger leaves and discard.

Wash leaves thoroughly in cold

water and then pat dry. Tear into

pieces, cut into strips or chop as

directed by your recipe.

Kale also freezes well. Strip the center ribs out

of the larger leaves and discard. Cut the leaves

crosswise into strips and blanch in salted

boiling water for 30 seconds. Drain and refresh

in cold water, then squeeze the water out and

freeze the leaves in quart-size freezer bags.

76 E AT YO U R K A L E

77

It’s often served in soups, pasta, gratins

and stews. It can be added to eggs, pizza,

casseroles, salads, potatoes, quiche,

mac and cheese and stir-fries, and it’s

a perfect choice when trying to sneak a

little something healthy into a dish. And

we want to thank whoever came up with

making kale chips.

KALE IN THE KITCHEN

There are copious amounts of kale recipes

on the web, and hundreds of ways to

search for them. Kale is one of the few

leafy greens that you can eat raw, sautéed,

steamed, boiled, baked, fried and even

drink in a smoothie.


View recipes on page 96 »

kale focused recipes

78 H O W W E D I D I T


Deconstructing a shot

from Stephen Hamilton’s

The Restaurant Project

favorite dish

Scallops

Restaurant

Restaurant: Hubbard Inn

Chicago, IL

food stylist

Josephine Orba

prop stylist

Tom Hamilton

HOW WE DID IT

b y J U D I T H M A R A

80 R E C I P E I N D E X

Line a baking sheet with foil and lightly

butter the foil. Poke a hole in the stem end

of each apple and insert a cinnamon stick or

lollipop stick.

Bring a large saucepan with a couple of

inches of water to a simmer. Keep at the

ready for after the caramel is made.

In a medium saucepan, combine the sugar,

maple syrup, water, salt, and cinnamon and

bring to a boil over medium heat, brushing

the sides of the pan with a damp pastry

caramel apples

by Josh Kilmer-Purcell and Brent Ridge, Authors and TV Personalities

ingredients:

· Softened butter for the foil

· 4 small apples

· 4 long cinnamon sticks or lollipop sticks

· 1cup granulated sugar

· 1/4 cup maple syrup or honey

· 1/3 cup water

· 1/2 teaspoon salt

· 1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon

· 2 tablespoons unsalted butter

· 1 cup salted peanuts, coarsely chopped

·

serves 4

You’ll need a candy thermometer for these classic autumn treats.

brush to prevent any crystals from forming.

Add the butter and cook the caramel,

without stirring, until a candy thermometer

registers 300°F.

Set the caramel pan into the larger pan of

simmering water to keep the caramel warm

so it won’t harden. Quickly, but very carefully,

dip each apple into the caramel, leaving the

area around the stem uncoated. Roll the

apples in the nuts to coat. Set the apples on

the buttered foil to cool.

81R E C I P E I N D E X

fine apple tart

by Eric Ripert, Le Bernardin Executive Chef

ingredients for apple compote:

· 2 granny smith apples

· 2 tablespoons sugar

· 1/2 tablespoon lemon juice

· 1 vanilla bean

makes 1 tart serving 4 people

First, make the apple compote. Peel and finely dice the

apple, then mix with the sugar, lemon juice and vanilla

bean. Place in a small pot and cook on a medium heat

until the apple has softened. Reserve in a bowl covered

with plastic wrap and chill.

Next, make the glaze. Place all ingredients in a small

pot, bring to a boil and pour into a bowl. Let chill.

Finally, assemble the tart. Prick the disk of frozen puff

pastry all over with a fork and place on a cookie sheet

lined with parchment paper or a silicone non-stick

baking sheet. Evenly spread the apple compote over

the tart. Peel the remaining 4 granny smith apples

and cut into 1/8-thick slices. Neatly cover the compote

with shingled apple slices. Brush the apples with

melted butter and sprinkle with the sugar. Bake in a

350-degree oven for about 40 minutes, until the puff

pastry is cooked and the apples are golden at the

edges. Gently brush the apple tart with a little of the

Calvados glaze to give it a nice sheen.

Serve with whipped cream or vanilla ice cream.

ingredients for glaze:

· 1/2 cup sugar

· 1/4 cup water

· 1/4 cup Calvados

ingredients for tart:

· 1 10-inch disk of frozen

store-bought puff pastry

· 4 granny smith apples

· 1 stick of butter, melted

· 1 tablespoon sugar

82

makes 1 pie

gramercy tavern apple pie

by Michael Anthony, Gramercy Tavern Executive Chef

Apple Pie – Gramercy Tavern’s apple pie is an annual

favorite. They make it with a bunch of different kinds

of apples (Winesap, Honeycrisp, Fuji, Granny Smith,

and more..) but the recipe allows for using just one kind

– or however many you have. It’s a warm, rustic, and

classically festive dish for Fall and for the holidays.

R E C I P E I N D E X

83

to make the pie:

Preheat the oven to 400˚F, with a rack in the bottom

position.

In a large bowl, whisk together the sugar, cornstarch,

cinnamon, and salt.

On a lightly floured surface, roll one disk of dough into

a 13-inch circle, then fit it into a 9-inch pie dish. Roll

the other disk into a 13-inch circle.

Add the apples to the sugar mixture and toss

thoroughly. (We combine the apples with the sugar at

the last minute so the mixture stays drier and doesn’t

weight down the dough.) Pour the apple mixture into

the dish. We call for just the right amount of apples.

Don’t be afraid if you see them piled high. Cover with

the remaining dough circle, then trim the excess

dough, and crimp the edges.

Cut about a dozen slits all over the pie. Sprinkle

liberally with sugar and cinnamon and place on a

baking sheet lined with aluminum foil. (This way you

needn’t worry about any juices that may bubble over.)

Bake until the crust is golden and the filling is bubbly,

65 to 75 minutes. Transfer the pie to a rack and serve

warm or at room temperature.

ingredients for pie:

· 3⁄4 cup sugar, plus more for sprinkling

· 3 tablespoons cornstarch

· 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon, plus more for sprinkling

· 1⁄2 teaspoon salt

· Pie Dough

· All-purpose flour for rolling

· 8 medium apples (about 31⁄2 pounds), peeled, cored,

and cut into 1⁄4-inch slices

to make the pie dough:

In a large bowl, stir together the flour and salt. Add

the butter and toss to coat with the flour, then flatten

the bits of butter between your fingertips. Add the

vegetable shortening, toss to coat with the flour

mixture, and then flatten into pieces a little bigger than

the butter. (Using just the tips of your fingers helps

produce a flaky crust.)

Sprinkle ¾ cup of the ice water over the flour mixture

and gently toss to incorporate. Use a rubber spatula to

push the dry flour into the liquid, but do not stir the

mixture. This gentle process of “hydrating” the flour

without stirring makes all the difference. If the mixture

is too dry and won’t come together when you gently

squeeze a handful, sprinkle with another tablespoon

of water and toss again. Continue the process until

the dough just holds together, adding as little water

and handling the dough as little as possible. Some dry

patches and crumbs are okay— they will moisten as

the dough rests.

Divide the dough into 2 balls, flatten into disks, and

wrap well in plastic. Refrigerate for at least 2 hours, or

overnight. The dough can be frozen for up to a month;

thaw overnight in the refrigerator.

ingredients for pie dough:

· 3 cups all-purpose flour, plus more for rolling

· 1 teaspoon salt

· 10 tablespoons (1 1⁄4 sticks) unsalted butter, cut into

small cubes and chilled

· 1⁄2 cup plus 2 tablespoons vegetable shortening, chilled

· Up to 1 cup ice water



Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

Cut the fennel bulb in half, then cut each half into three

wedges. Arrange in a small baking dish and drizzle with the

olive oil. Measure in 1/4 cup water, sprinkle with 1/2 teaspoon

salt, cover with foil, and bake until tender (about one hour).

Cool. Move the fennel to a cutting board and pull off any

fibrous outer layers, cut out and discard the pieces of core

holding each wedge together, then chop the remainder into

small pieces.

While the fennel is cooking, scoop the apple pieces into a bowl

and sprinkle them with the lime juice. Toss to combine, and

refrigerate until ready to use. Cut the avocado into halves and

scoop the flesh from each into a large bowl. With a large fork,

the back of a large spoon, or an old-fashioned potato masher,

coarsely mash the avocado.

Add the thyme, chopped pepper, apples (including all of the

lime juice) and the chopped fennel to the avocado and stir to

combine. Taste and season with salt. Serve with Kohlrabi spears

or your favorite tortilla chips.

recipe: apple fennel guacamole

by Rick Bayless, Frontera Grill Executive Chef

serves 8

ingredients:

· 1 medium fennel bulb, stalks and fronds cut off

· 1 tablespoon olive oil

· salt, to taste

· 1/2 medium apple (a crisp-textured one like Granny Smith

works well here), peeled, cored and cut into 1/4-inch pieces

· 2 tablespoons fresh lime juice

· 3 ripe medium-large avocados

· 1 generous teaspoon chopped fresh thyme

· 1 large fresh serrano or 1 small jalapeño, stemmed, seeded

if you wish and finely chopped


serves 6

Tie up the bay leaf, thyme, cloves, and coriander in a piece of

cheesecloth to make a sachet.

In a large pot, heat 2 tablespoons of the oil over medium-low heat. Add

the leeks, shallots, and garlic and cook, stirring occasionally, until the

leeks are softened, 5 to 7 minutes. Add the cubed squash and carrots,

season with salt and pepper, and cook, stirring, for a few minutes.

Increase the heat to high, add the orange juice, and simmer until

reduced by half. Add the broth, allspice, cinnamon, and sachet, bring to

a simmer, and cook until the squash and carrots are very tender, about

35 minutes. Remove from the heat.

In a small saucepan, cook 3 tablespoons of the butter over medium heat

until it melts and the milk solids turn golden brown, about 2 minutes.

Stir the browned butter into the soup, along with the honey.

Discard the sachet and set aside 1½ cups of the soup broth. Process the

remaining soup in batches in a blender until very smooth and creamy,

then pass through a fine-mesh strainer back into the pot. Thin the soup

as needed with the reserved liquid; I prefer a thin consistency. Season

with salt, pepper, and lemon juice, cover, and keep hot.

In a very small saucepan, cover the finely diced squash with an inch of

water, bring to a simmer, and cook until just tender, about 3 minutes.

Drain the squash, toss with the remaining ½ tablespoon butter, and

season with salt.

Meanwhile, in a small skillet, heat the remaining 1 tablespoon oil over

medium-high heat, then add the Brussels sprout leaves and toss for a

minute. Add a splash of water and continue to cook for 1 to 2 minutes.

Drain and season with salt.

Ladle the soup into bowls, then top with the diced squash, apples, and

Brussels sprout leaves.

red kuri squash soup with brussels sprouts and apples

by Michael Anthony, Gramercy Tavern Executive Chef

ingredients:

· 1 bay leaf

· 1 sprig thyme

· 2 cloves

· 1 teaspoon coriander seeds

· 3 tablespoons olive oil

· 2 medium leeks (white parts), halved lengthwise and thinly sliced

· 5 shallots, thinly sliced

· 1 garlic clove, minced

· 6 cups peeled, seeded, and cubed red kuri squash,

plus 1⁄2 cup finely diced

· 2 medium carrots, sliced

· Salt and pepper

· 1⁄2 cup orange juice

· 6 cups Vegetable Broth (page 118) or water

· 1⁄8 teaspoon ground allspice

· 1⁄8 teaspoon ground cinnamon

· 31⁄2 tablespoons unsalted butter

· 1 tablespoon honey

· Fresh lemon juice

· Large leaves from 6 Brussels sprouts

· 1⁄2 cup peeled, cored, and finely diced sweet firm apple,

such as Honeycrisp, tossed with a little

· lemon juice


Combine all ingredients in a mixing

glass, add ice, stir and pour into

coupe. Express oils of lemon swath,

discard swath and enjoy.

ingredients:

· 1 ½ oz. Atlantico Private Cask Rum

· ½ oz. Famous Grouse

· .75 oz. Wild Turkey Rye

· ½ oz. Cocchi Americano

· ¼ oz. Benedictine

serves 4

berkshire room’s beginning to end (abbreviated version)

by Johnny Costello


ingredients:

· 1 c. sugar plum puree

· 3 Tbs. Maple Syrup

· ¼ c. light brown sugar

· 1 c. half and half

· ½ c. cream

· ½ tsp agar agar (available at gourmet stores or online)

· Pinch of salt

makes 4

Pastry chef Della Gossett, the medal-winning

former pastry chef at Charlie Trotter’s, is now

the executive pastry chef at Wolfgang Puck’s

Spago Beverly Hills. Her Sugar Plum Panna

Cotta is simple to make, delicious and turns a

classic recipe into world class holiday fare.

Blend sugar plum puree and maple syrup together,

set aside.

Whisk cream, half and half, brown sugar, agar agar

and salt together.

Bring cream mixture to a boil. Whisk sugar plum

puree and maple syrup into the hot cream mixture.

Immediately pour into molds or cups. Chill until cold

and set.

When set, invert the panna cotta onto a plate. Serve

with a drizzle of maple syrup, fresh persimmon and

gingersnap crumbs.

sugar plum panna cotta with bourbon barrel aged maple syrup

by Della Gossett, Wolfgang Puck’s Spago Beverly Hills


makes 24 bars

sugar plum & smoked almond linzer squares with spiced butterscotch cream

by Mindy Segal, Mindy’s Hot Chocolate

James Beard Best Pastry Chef 2012, and restaurateur,

Mindy Segal, created Sugar Plum & Smoked Almond

Linzer Squares with Spiced Butterscotch Cream.

She added almond paste and a touch of whiskey to

compliment the sweetness of the persimmons.


to make linzer squares:

In a Cuisinart or grinder, combine almonds & 1 cup

of flour. Grind until almonds are powder. Combine

with rest of dry ingredients and set aside.

In a mixer, with a paddle attachment, cream batter

and sugar until light and fluffy. Add yolks one at a

time and mix until combined. Scrape bowl and make

homogeneous. Add all dry ingredients and vanilla

extract and orange zest Mix on low until combined.

Scrape bowl and bring together completely. Spray a

half sheet pan with vegetable spray and line with

parchment paper. Spray again.Spread evenly on

sheet pan (approx. 2/3 of batter). Combine sugar

plum puree and apple butter thoroughly. Spread

evenly on top of linzer batter. Combine rest of

batter with the 3 egg whites and mix thoroughly

until combined. With a pastry bag and a pastry tip

(approx. ¼ in. diameter) fill the bag with batter. Pipe

horizontal line from one end of sheet pan to the

other about ½ in. apart. Then, do the same thing

vertically to create a lattice pattern. Bake in a 350°

oven for approx. 25-30 minutes. Let Cool. When cool,

remove pastry from sheet pan and put onto a cutting

board. Cut lattice square into 1 inch squares. Serve

warm with a dollop of Spiced Butterscotch Cream.

to make butterscoth cream:

In a heavy duty sauce pot, heat cream until hot

While heating, toast all spices until hot and crush

into a powder. Steep with the vanilla bean in hot

cream. In another heavy duty sauce pot, over

medium heat, melt sugars, salt and butter just until

melted. Add hot spiced cream slowly, reducing a

little before adding more. Strain spices out from

butterscotch. Taste sauce and adjust seasoning.

Should taste slightly salty. Let cool to room temp.

Whip remaining cups of cream to soft peaks. Add

cooled butterscotch to taste. Preserve leftover

butterscotch for later use. Can be stored in

refrigerator for two weeks

ingredients for linzer squares:

· 12 oz butter (room temperature)

· 1 cup granulated sugar

· 1 ½ cups smoked almonds

· 3 eggs (separated)

· 3 cups of all purpose flour

· ½ tbsp. baking powder

· 1 tsp. kosher salt or sea salt

· ½ tsp. cinnamon

· Pinch nutmeg

· ½ cup “sugar plum” or persimmon pulp

· ½ cup apple butter

· ¼ tsp. vanilla extract

· Zest of 1 orange

ingredients for butterscoth cream:

· 1/2 cup light brown sugar

· 1/2 cup dark brown sugar

· 1/2 cup butter

· 1 tsp. salt

· 2 cups heavy cream + 2 cups for whipping

· 2 each cinnamon whole

· ½ whole nutmeg

· 1 tsp. whole black pepper

· 1 each vanilla bean


serves 4 to 6

sticky toffee sugar plum pudding and sugar plum gelato

by Elizabeth Falkner, Consulting Chef, Iron Chef America, Top Chef Masters

Chef Elizabeth Falkner has competed on Iron Chef

America, been a judge on Top Chef and Top Chefs

Masters and has had many other TV appearances.

Already a lover of fuyu and hachiya persimmons,

Elizabeth created Sugar Plum Pudding and Sugar Plum

Gelato with Burton’s Sugar Plum Pureé.


to make puddin:

Preheat oven to 325˚. Bring water

to boil and add baking soda. Stir in

persimmon puree and set aside to

cool. Cream butter, brown sugar and

maple syrup together in a mixer. Mix

in eggs, one at a time. Stir in flour,

baking powder and salt, add the

persimmon mixture and stir until

smooth. Pour into a loaf pan, cover

with foil and place in a water bath.

Bake for 35 to 40 minutes or until set

to serve:

Slice or spoon some of the pudding

onto each plate. Spoon toffee sauce

over and garnish with a little more

maple syrup, slash of bourbon

(optional) and fresh pecans or walnuts.

Finish with scoop of Sugar Plum Gelato.

to make sauce:

Combine the butter, cream, sugar

and syrup in a medium saucepan and

bring to a boil. Reduce temperature

and simmer about 5 minutes or until

slightly thicker. Add vanilla and salt.

to make gelato:

Combine the milk and cream in a

saucepan and bring just to a boil,

remove from heat. Meanwhile, whisk

the yolks and sugar together. Temper

the milk (add a small portion) into

the yolks and sugar and whisk. Add

all the milk to the egg mixture. Pour it

back into the saucepan and cook over

medium heat until it thickens slightly.

Add the persimmon puree and salt.

Pour into a freezer proof container,

cover with plastic wrap and freeze

until solid.

ingredients for pudding:

· 1/2 cup persimmon purée

· 1 (8 g.) teaspoon baking soda

· 1/2 cup water

· 1/4 cup butter

· 1/2 cup brown sugar

· 1/2 cup maple syrup

· 2 eggs

· 7/8 cup (7 oz.) all purpose flour

· 1 1/2 (12 g.) teaspoons baking powder


ingredients for sauce:

· 1/4 cup butter

· 8 oz heavy cream

· 5/8 cup (5 oz) brown sugar

· 1/4 cup maple syrup

· 1/4 teaspoon vanilla extract


ingredients for gelato:

· 1 quart milk

· 8 oz heavy cream

· 4 egg yolks

· 3/4 cup sugar

· 1 cup persimmon puree



Indiana native, Paula Haney, is a pastry chef, author and

owner of Hoosier Mama Pie Company. She also is no stranger

to persimmons and gives classic pumpkin pie some stiff

competition with her Persimmon Pie recipe from her new book,

Hoosier Mama Book of Pie.

Preheat the oven to 350F (180C). Using a spatula or the back of a serving

spoon, press the pulp through a tami or fine-mesh strainer. Place the

persimmon pulp in a medium bowl and sprinkle the orange zest over

it. Whisk in the eggs, cream, butter, and vanilla paste, stirring well after

each addition. In a separate bowl, combine the granulated sugar, brown

sugar, cinnamon, mace and salt. Whisk or mix with your hands to break

up the brown sugar until thoroughly combined. Add the dry ingredients

to the persimmon mixture and whisk until just combined. Pour the

filling into the pie shell and bake for 45 minutes to 1 hour, or until the

edge of the pie is slightly puffed and the center of the pie is dry to the

touch. The top of the pie will color slightly. Cool to room temperature

and then chill in the refrigerator for at least 2 hours, up to overnight,

before slicing.

The baked pie can be stored in the refrigerator for up to 3 days. Do not

store the pie at room temperature.

persimmon pie

by Paula Haney, Hoosier Mama Pie Company (from The Hoosier Mama Book of Pie: Recipes, Techniques,

and Wisdom from the Hoosier Mama Pie Company)

ingredients:

· 1 single-crust blind-baked pie dough shell

· 1 cup strained American persimmon pulp

· zest of 1/2 orange

· 3 large eggs

· 1 cup (237 ml) heavy cream

· 1 Tablespoon unsalted butter, melted

· 1 teaspoon vanilla paste

· 2/3 cup granulated sugar

· 2 Tablespoons dark brown sugar

· 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

· 1/4 teaspoon ground mace

· 1/4 teaspoon kosher salt


ingredients:

· 6 large Russet baking potatoes

· 1/4 cup crème fraîche

· 1/2 cup ricotta cheese

· 2 egg yolks

· 1/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese

· 2 teaspoons garlic salt

· 1/4 teaspoon ground white pepper

· Juice of half a lemon

makes 6Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Wash potatoes

well and pierce several times with a fork.

Season with salt and freshly ground black

pepper. Wrap in foil and place directly onto

oven rack for approximately 1 hour. When

potatoes are cooked through, you should be

able to easily pass a pairing knife into the

centers. Cut the top third off the potatoes,

scooping out approximately 80% of the

“flesh” and set aside. You should now have

canoe-shaped potato shells. Pass potato

flesh through a food mill into a mixing bowl.

Add all ingredients from the crème fraîche

to the lemon juice. Fold together until well

combined but without over-mixing. Reserve

one third of mixture and place in piping

twice baked potatoes

by John-Gustin Birkitt, The French Hound Chef and Owner

garniture:

· 6 scallions, sliced

· 6 strips of bacon, cooked and chopped

· 2 ounces grated cheddar cheese, divided

· 1 tablespoon lemon confit, minced

· 2 tablespoons chopped fresh tarragon

· 1/2 teaspoon garlic salt

bag fitted with a large star tip. Add all

remaining ingredients: bacon, cheddar

(reserving half an ounce), scallions,

tarragon, lemon confit & garlic salt. Fold to

combine.

Using a spoon, fill each cavity of potato

shells a little past full. Now using the

piping bag with reserved potato mixture,

pipe the top of each potato. Sprinkle

reserved grated cheddar cheese on top of

each potato.

Baked stuffed potatoes for 15-18 minutes

or until a thermometer inserted into the

center reaches 155 degrees. Garnish with a

sprinkle of chives.


ingredients:

· 1 ½ pounds New Mexico green chile peppers, roasted, peeled,

seeded and diced

· 2 tablespoons grape seed oil or other clean-flavored cooking oil

· 4 pounds leftover turkey meat (dark meat is preferable)

· 3 cups yellow onion, peeled and diced

· 8 cloves fresh garlic, peeled and sliced

· 2 tablespoons ancho or other dried chile powder

· 1½ tablespoons ground cumin

· 12 ounces green tomatillos, husks removed and finely diced

· 4 cups turkey or low-sodium chicken broth

· 1 cup canned tomatoes, drained

· 1/2 cup cilantro leaves, roughly chopped

· 2 tablespoons fresh lime juice

makes 8

Shred turkey into bite-sized pieces. Pour the oil in a

large, heavy pot; over medium heat sweat the garlic

and onions until translucent. Add the tomatillos

and continue to cook an additional 5 minutes before

adding all remaining ingredients except the turkey

and lime juice. Cook at a low simmer for 1½ hours.

During the last ten minutes, add the leftover turkey

and lime juice. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

Place your favorite toppings in small bowls and serve

alongside the turkey.

new mexican green chile turkey

by Justin Brunson, Old Major Executive Chef

optional toppings:

· 8 eggs, poached, over-easy or sous vide

· 16 ounces grated cheddar or pepper jack cheese

· 3 limes, quartered

· 1 cup cilantro, chopped

· 3 jalapeño peppers, thinly sliced

· 12 each corn and flour tortillas, warmed

· 8 ounces sour cream

95

Preheat oven to 300 degrees. Make the custard base: In a

large mixing bowl, whisk together the half and half, egg

yolks, eggs, and salt. Set aside.

In a small sauté pan, add the butter, onion, garlic and

sage, and cook over medium-low heat until the onion

softens and becomes translucent. Remove from heat

and add the shredded turkey and cubed dinner rolls. Mix

together and divide into tall ramekins (for individual

portions) or a small hotel pan (for one large bread

pudding).

Pour the custard base over the bread pudding and press

down. Let sit at least one hour, but preferably overnight.

Cover with foil and bake in a water bath for 30 minutes.

Remove foil and glaze the pudding with cranberry sauce.

Return to oven and bake for an additional 10-15 minutes,

until slightly browned. Serve with leftover gravy, if

desired.

thanksgiving pudding

by Tim Havidic, iNG Executive Chef

ingredients:

· 2 cups half and half

· 4 egg yolks

· 2 whole eggs

· 1 tablespoon salt

· 1 tablespoon butter

· 1 small onion, diced

· 4 cloves garlic, minced

· 2 large sage leaves

· 1 cup turkey leg meat, shredded

· 4-5 small dinner rolls, cut into 1-inch cubes

makes 4



kale recipes

by Judith Mara

kale chips

Preheat oven to 300 degrees F. Line a

large baking sheet with parchment paper.

Place 2 cups torn kale leaves in a large

bowl and toss with 1 tablespoon olive oil.

Transfer to the prepared baking sheet,

laying all the leaves flat. Sprinkle with 1/4

teaspoon salt or other seasonings. Bake

for 20 to 25 minutes or until crisp. Serve

right away.

Note: The lower the temperature kale

chips are baked at, the longer they will

keep. You can bake them at 170˚ to 200˚,

just increase the baking time to 1 to 2

hours. Check for doneness every

30 minutes.

sautéed kale

For the best results when sautéing, use Cavolo

Nero or young, tender curly kale leaves.

For 4 side dish servings use about 1 1/2 - 2

pounds of kale, 3 tablespoons olive oil, 2 cloves

of garlic––sliced thin crosswise, some chicken

broth or water, salt and 2 tablespoons fresh

lemon juice or red wine vinegar.

Wash kale, remove any tough ribs and tear or

cut leaves into pieces. Slice garlic and measure

out 1/2 cup of broth. In a large sauté or sauce

pan (with a cover) heat the olive oil over

medium-high heat. Add the garlic, stir but do

not brown. Add the broth and the kale then

toss (a tong works best) to combine. Cover

and cook for about 5 to 6 minutes. Remove

the cover, and cook until the broth has

evaporated. Turn the heat down, sprinkle on

some salt and add the lemon juice or vinegar.

Toss and serve.

grilled kale

Try this to accompany grilled steaks

or sausages.

Heat grill to medium high. Wash and dry

a bunch of kale. In a big bowl, add about

2 tablespoons of olive oil. Season the olive

oil with any combination of crushed or

minced garlic, red pepper flakes, fresh

pepper, fresh lemon juice and/or red wine

or balsamic vinegar. (Short cut: use leftover

vinaigrette as the base.) Whisk the olive oil

mixture and taste for balance and adjust.

Toss the kale leaves in the bowl to evenly

coat. Sprinkle with sea salt.

Position kale leaves on a portable grill pan

and place on grill. They will cook fast. Grill

kale for 2 minutes and turn. Check to see

of they are crisp. If not, grill 1 to 2 minutes

longer. You can cut any tough stems from

the leaves before serving or just serve as is.


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Who's Hungry? Magazine | Late Fall 2013 | No 9