Who's Hungry? Magazine | Early Summer 2012 | No 2

1

e a r ly s u m m e r 2 0 1 2 N o 0 02

FEATURES

22

40

30

24 Weather Permitting

5 Great Al Frescos

High Spirits

Stone Soup

2 C O N T E N T S

12 In Season

4 Contributors

5 Letter from Steve

6 Stylist’s Corner

8 Out of the Bag

10 Art of the Ice Cream Scoop

12 In Season

22 5 Great Al Frescos

24 Weather Permitting

28 Portrait of a Chef

30 Stone Soup

40 High Spirits

42 The Simple Life

54 How We Did It

CONTENTS

CONTACTS

3C O N T E N T S

media inquiriesJudith Mara | [email protected]

Deirdre O’Shea | [email protected]

sponsorship opportunitiesDeirdre O’Shea | [email protected]

representationSchumann & Company | www.schumannco.com

[email protected] | 312.432.1702

stephen hamilton 1520 W. Fulton | Chicago, IL 60607

www.stephenhamilton.com

42 The Simple Life

4 C O N T R I B U T O R S

judith mara | Editor and Writer

Judith has worked with Stephen for the last six

years and helped to lead the editorial concept

and execution of Who’s Hungry?™ magazine. An

award-winning former creative director for major

ad agencies such as Leo Burnett and J. Walter

Thompson, Judith penned “Weather Permitting”

and literally hand wrote “How We Did It.”

ian law | Design

Ian designed every aspect of Who’s Hungry?™

magazine with meticulous attention to detail and

typography, and helped turn static images into an

interactive experience. His award-winning design

work has been featured in the pages of Print,

Creativity, How, PDN and Graphic Design USA.

Deirdre o’Shea | Production Director

If you have worked with Stephen Hamilton,

you’ve worked with Deirdre. Drawing on 15

years of experience in managing photography

studios, Deirdre has a hand in nearly every

aspect of Stephen’s business. She’s been

instrumental in organizing the magazine’s

shoots, sourcing ingredients, and always

keeping production on schedule.

a special thanks to: Geoff Binns-Calvey, Walter Moeller, Josephine Orba, Breana Moeller,

Tom Hamilton, Juan Palomino, Raymond Barrera, Ruth Siegel, Sandy Rosencrans, Justin Paris, Andrew Burkle,

Pete Klein, Sarah Grueneberg, Giuseppe and Christy Tentori, Rodelio Aglibot, Matt and Stevi Savage,

Michael and Lori Shenfeld, Sam Jorden, Malika Ameen, Gale Gand, Jeni Britton Bauer, and Celeste Campise.

Sara Moulton | Chef, Cookbook Author, Television Personality

One of the hardest-working women in the food

biz, Sara has hosted multiple Food Network

shows, served as Gourmet magazine’s executive

chef for 23 years, and balanced it all with family

life. She has written three cookbooks, and hosts

her own PBS show, “Sara’s Weeknight Meals.”

For Who’s Hungry? ™ magazine, Sara recounts

the magical draw of her family’s summer home,

Laurel Farm.

kate bernot | Editor and Writer

A freelance food writer and editor, Kate Bernot

has contributed to RedEye, Chicago Sun-Times,

Conde Nast Traveler, Serious Eats Chicago, and

BlackboardEats. She helped develop the editorial

vision of Who’s Hungry? ™ magazine, and tried

not to get too hungry while writing about ice

cream sundaes, potluck parties, and Giuseppe

Tentori’s clam chowder for this issue.

steve dolinsky | Writer

Since 2003, Steve has been the recognizable face

of ABC 7’s “The Hungry Hound,” fi ling reports on

the best eats in Chicago. He has also appeared

as a guest judge on “Iron Chef America”, as a

contributor to “Unique Eats”, and serves as one

of the Academy Judges for “The World’s 50 Best

Restaurants.” For Who’s Hungry? ™ magazine,

Steve ticked off his favorite al fresco restaurants

across the country.

c o n t r i b u t o r s N o 0 0 2

5

Summer is simplicity. It’s the season when Mother Nature

makes us grateful for the smallest of gifts, like a warm

breeze or a bite of juicy strawberry. It turns us all into kids

again, giddy at the thought of a day outside.

L E T T E R F R O M S T E V E | C O N T R I B U T O R S ’ P O R T R A I T S B Y A N D R E W B U R K L E | S T E V E ’ S P O R T R A I T B Y AV E RY H O U S E

LETTER FROM STEVE

That enthusiasm runs through all the

stories in this second issue. I am honored

to publish a personal essay from Sara

Moulton, former Gourmet Magazine

executive chef and Food Network host,

about idyllic summers spent at her family’s

Massachusetts country home. It’s the

perfect story to take with you to the beach

or the lake, where you can stare out at the

water and enjoy its calming effects.

There are also plenty of delicious recipes

to inspire your ultimate picnic or backyard

cook-out. “In Season” features frozen

treats from some of the country’s best

pastry chefs like Gale Gand, Malika Ameen,

Celeste Campise, and ice cream wizard

Jeni Britton Bauer. The sundaes, floats, and

ice cream sandwiches are easy enough

to whip up on a lazy summer afternoon,

but beautiful enough to serve to company.

Kids—even the grown-up kind—are sure

to enjoy eating them as much as I enjoyed

photographing them.

“Weather Permitting” is especially

fascinating in this issue because of

the unpredictable spring weather that

complicated farmers’ harvests across the

Great Lakes region. Some of our favorite

fruits suffered because of late frosts, but

the ones that are at markets now look and

taste as beautiful as ever.

Whether you spend your June and July at

the lake, the beach, or just in your own

backyard, don’t forget to pause to ask

“Who’s Hungry?™”

STEPHEN HAMILTON

6 S T Y L I S T ’ S C O R N E R : B A C K YA R D B A Z A A R

7P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y S T E P H E N H A M I LT O N | S T Y L E D B Y T O M H A M I LT O N

Backyard Bazaar

Prop styling brings a table to

life, setting the mood for the

meal ahead. Tom Hamilton,

one of the nation’s best-

traveled stylists, and brother

to Stephen Hamilton, often

draws on his own far-fl ung

voyages for inspiration.

Here, Tom recalled his picnics in

locations as exotic as Kenya, India, and

Morocco. With an eye for each stitch and

brushstroke, he brought all the textures

and colors into bold but calming, harmony.

The trick to layering patterns, says Tom,

is to choose one color family and vary the

size of the prints. This exotic picnic makes

use of Uzbek fabrics, Egyptian glassware,

and Vietnamese baskets, and brings a

global perspective to the most intimate

of spaces: Tom’s own backyard.

CORNERSTYLIST’S

tom hamilton

8

To make complex shots look effortless,

Stephen Hamilton sometimes requires

the assistance of Geoff Binns-Calvey.

A special effects designer, engineer,

and all-around handyman, he has

constructed everything from flame

rigs to champagne fountains for the

studio. If it doesn’t already exist,

Geoff can create it. Of course, this

wizardry requires some complex

gadgets, many of which he carries

in his toolbox or infinite number

of pockets. From razors to lasers,

here’s what might be tucked inside

Geoff’s overalls…

8 O U T O F T H E B A G : G E O F F B I N N S - C A LV E Y

LEATHERMAN MULTI-TOOL WAVEGeoff’s “constant companion,”

this multi-tool packs a dozen

tools into one package. It’s like a

Swiss Army knife… on steroids.

It folds out to reveal a diamond

file, scissors, a screwdriver,

a can opener, and more.

OUT of

the BAG

1

99

HEMOSTATSNormally reserved for the operating room,

these medical pliers come in handy when

working with small wires, very hot metal,

or both. They’re also helpful for extending

one’s reach when building a photo set.

LASER BEAMThis over-cranked green laser is

imported from China because

this bright a beam isn’t available

in the United States. Geoff uses

it to point to specific areas of a

rig or to small details on set.

X-ACTO KNIFE WITH #11 BLADEThe #11 blade, Geoff’s favorite, is made of

durable carbon steel so it won’t wear out

no matter how many cardboard packages

he cuts through. He stores it in this trusty,

one-of-a-kind sheath.

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P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y S T E P H E N H A M I LT O N

10 T H E A R T O F T H E I C E C R E A M S C O O P

THE ART

of the ICE CREAM

SCOOPb y

K AT E B E R N O T

Ice cream is the Mount Everest

of food photography. If you can

style and shoot frozen treats,

you know you’ve conquered

one of the toughest foods in

the business. What makes it so

difficult? Hot studio lights and

a melting product, for starters,

but there’s also the quest to

capture just the right texture

and shape of the dessert. Click

on the bullets below for the full

“scoop” on our methods.

11

THE CREAMFirst, gallons of ice cream are stored in a

freezer that keeps them cold, but not rock

hard. That way, the ice cream is easily

scooped and molded into the perfect shape.

Once the stylist shaves off a perfect curlicue,

it is stored in a dry ice freezer that can drop

to -40 degrees Fahrenheit. Once it is really

frozen, the scoop is brought onto the photo

set.

»

»

»

»

THE CURLIce cream can take different shapes

depending on the instrument used to scoop

it. Walter Moeller cut away the cardboard

packaging with scissors, then made this

shape with a paddle rather than

a traditional ice cream scoop.

THE DROPSUnlike some photographers, Stephen

uses real ice cream on his shoots. A few

strategically placed, melted drops drive

home this natural approach.

THE CHIPS Not all scoops of mint ice cream have an

even distribution of chocolate chips, so

food stylist Walter Moeller used tweezers

to add chips to areas that looked sparse.


12

Refrigeration is a modern invention, but

frozen desserts have existed since the

time of the Persian Empire. As far back as

400 B.C., the Persians enjoyed fruit syrups

poured over snow, which they obtained

from the tops of tall mountains and kept

cool in underground chambers. Thankfully,

the farthest you’ll have to travel for ice

cream these days is to your kitchen freezer.

Perk up those store-bought pints with these

recipes for easy, nostalgic treats from some

of the nation’s top pastry chefs.

May

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I N S E A S O N : A F R O Z E N F E A S T12

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A Frozen Feast

b y K AT E B E R N O T

I N S E A S O N

P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y S T E P H E N H A M I LT O N 13

14 I N S E A S O N : A F R O Z E N F E A S T

G A L E G A N D recipe by

Gale Gand, award-winning pastry chef at

Tru in Chicago, began to pine for classic

American root beer fl oats when she was

working in England in the mid-1990s.

Being in a root beer-free zone, she had to

make the dessert herself. This quest to

perfect an at-home root beer fl oat had

two results: fi rst, the recipe for her easy

but elegant root beer granita-vanilla

parfait, and second, the name of her

newly adopted terrier, Rootie.

15P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y S T E P H E N H A M I LT O N

root beer granita-vanilla parfait(makes 4 servings)

6 cups (1 ½ quarts) root beer

1 quart vanilla ice cream

4 elbow straws

Click to view complete recipe »

Thanks to the recent chicness

of small-batch, artisan foods,

your grocer’s freezer is

probably chock-full of a

whole rainbow of gourmet

ice cream fl avors.

But even though Ben & Jerry’s has been

twisting Americans’ taste buds for more

than 30 years, research shows that our

favorite fl avors remain good ol’ fashioned

chocolate and vanilla. According to a

Harris poll, scoops of butter pecan and

mint chocolate chip still can’t shake

our love affair with the basics. There’s

something undeniably nostalgic about ice

cream and its rituals, like digging wooden

spoons into Dixie cups or running after

the ice cream truck’s siren song. It’s that

nostalgia that really inspired these pastry

chefs’ recipes, which can all be recreated at

home without ever having to touch your ice

cream maker.

16

s’more ice cream sandwiches( makes 6 servings )

1 1/2 sticks soft butter, 3/4 cup dark brown sugar, 1 egg,

1 yolk, 1/2 cup sugar, 1/4 cup honey, 1 1/2 tsp baking powder,

1/2 tsp baking soda, 1 tsp cinnamon, 1 tsp premium pure vanilla

extract, 2 cups all purpose fl our, 1/2 cup graham fl our


I N S E A S O N : A F R O Z E N F E A S T

C E L E S T E C A M P I S E r e c i p e b y


one night in bangkok sundae( makes 6 servings )

6 bananas, sliced lengthwise in half

Bangkok Peanut Ice Cream (main

fl avors are peanut butter, coconut and

cayenne), 1 1/2 cups Praline Sauce,

warmed, Whipped Cream, About 3/4

cup Spanish peanuts, 6 Fortune Cookies,

1 basil sprig or 6 cilantro sprigs


J E N I B R I T TON B AU E R recipe by

Jeni Britton Bauer, of Jeni’s Splendid

Ice Creams in Columbus, OH,

concocted her “One Night in

Bangkok” sundae with all the

familiar fl avors of an ooey-gooey

candy bar like peanuts, coconut, and

pralines. There’s no denying that it’s

her comfort food: During her two

pregnancies, Bauer admits she ate a

few of these sundaes each week.

And if you happen to have kids

underfoot, invite them into the kitchen

with you to whip up a batch of s’more

ice cream sandwiches. At Spiaggia in

Chicago, pastry chef Celeste Campise

bakes composed Italian desserts on a

daily basis. But when she’s at home, she

says she’s much more likely to whip up

something inspired by childhood, like

these soft-baked graham cookies fi lled

with chocolate gelato and marshmallow

fl uff. Just one bite packs a whole

summer’s worth of campfi re nights.

Excerpted from Jeni’s Splendid Ice Creams at Home

by Jeni Britton Bauer (Artisan Books). Copyright 2011.


recipe by

homemade ginger soda with strawberry“ice”(makes 4 servings)

ginger soda½ cup water, 2 tablespoons peeled

and grated fresh ginger, ¾ cup organic

cane sugar, ¼ cup fresh lime juice,

1 teaspoon kosher salt, 3 cups very

cold club soda

strawberry “ice”1 pound organic strawberries, 2 tablespoons

organic cane sugar, ½ cup water, ¼ cup

sugar, 1 bag chamomile tea, Pinch of salt

Click to view complete recipe »M A L I K A A M E E N

Besides the nostalgia factor, there’s also

timing to consider when it comes to frozen

desserts. When kids’ soccer teammates

unexpectedly drop by after practice, or

when guests linger after a barbecue, it’s

handy to have an arsenal of no-fuss treats

that can be whipped up with minimal time

in the kitchen. Malika Ameen, a former Top

Chef contestant, owner of ByM Desserts,

and busy mother herself, shares her recipe

for homemade ginger soda with strawberry

ice. It’s simple but sophisticated, requiring

just a few minutes in the kitchen but still

elegant enough to serve to guests. After all,

summer is about enjoying time outside, not

slaving over a mixing bowl.



Grocers’ freezers are packed with all sorts

of frosty cartons. It’s useful to know what

distinguishes one variety from another, because

when a product contains only a handful of

ingredients, each one affects the treat’s texture

and flavor. Here’s your crash course.

ice Cream The classic American ice cream

begins with a custard base of milk,

cream, and sugar, and usually

contains egg yolks. Some varieties

may omit the eggs and add cream

cheese or half and half, plus various

flavorings such as vanilla beans,

chocolate, or fruit. The base churns

as it is frozen, which adds

air to lighten the texture.

gelatoThis Italian dessert also begins

with a custard base but churns

the ingredients much more slowly,

meaning less air is folded into

the mixture. This produces a

denser, richer product. Somewhat

deceptively, gelato often contains

less milk and eggs, making its fat

content lower than that of ice cream.


sorbetThe vegan’s choice, sorbet is

dairy- and egg-free. A base of

juice or flavored water is churned

with simple syrup, so it retains a

light texture similar to ice cream.

Sherbet is like sorbet, but with

the addition of dairy.

granitaLike sorbet, this dessert of Sicilian

origins begins with a base of

water, sugar, and flavorings.

Instead of churning in a machine,

the granita base is mixed by

hand, then left to sit in a freezer.

Periodically, the chunks are

broken up, giving a coarser, more

snow cone-like texture to the ice.

frozen yogurt This trendy treat is often

considered a “healthier”

alternative to ice cream, and

sometimes, it can be: Subbing

yogurt for cream means less

calories and less fat in a typical

serving, plus the addition of

probiotics. But be careful—some

yogurt brands compensate for

the lack of cream by adding lots

of sugar.

Move over, cake pops! Ice cream balls are a cool,

quick dessert that kids—and adults—will love

this summer. Scoop ice cream with a melon

baller, roll it in your favorite toppings, and devour.

22 5 G R E AT A L F R E S C O S

GREAT AL FRESCOSb y

S T E V E D O L I N S K Y

We asked Steve Dolinsky, Food Reporter for ABC 7 News in Chicago and 12-time James Beard Award

winner, what fi ve al frescos he thinks are worth a special trip.

Portrait by Todd Rosenberg Photography

23

Foreign Cinema »2534 mission st., san FranCisCo

How about a little Hog Island oyster with your

Hitchcock? This cool, casual Mediterranean-

influenced gem in the Mission would be a worthy

destination for its food alone. But throw in a

covered courtyard with films projected onto

a giant two-story wall outside, and suddenly,

those house-cured sardines and cauliflower or

that massive smoked masala pork chop with a

chanterelle-radicchio-leek bread pudding taste

that much better.

PiCColo sogno »464 n. Halsted st., CHiCago

Tony Priolo’s “little dream” came to fruition after

a long stint at Coco Pazzo downtown. But this

chef must also have a green thumb, because

stepping into the enormous, tree-lined patio that

seats about 150 is like stumbling onto your long-

lost Italian uncle’s villa somewhere in the Veneto.

On any given warm summer night in Chicago,

you can bet the tables will be full, and not just

because of the scenery. Priolo makes everything

from scratch here, from the pastas all the way

down to the tiny grissini, or bread sticks.

Vinegar Hill House »72 Hudson aVe., Brooklyn

Half the fun of going to Vinegar Hill House is the

trek itself. Whether you take the F train to York

and walk a few more blocks or drive over the

Manhattan Bridge, this quaint haven in Brooklyn

has an even more charming patio. With large,

horizontal branches strung with intermittent

light bulbs, it could be a scene from a Zach Braff

coming-of-age film about the young couple that

finds love over a bottle of Sangiovese: She goes

for the beet risotto while he opts for a Red Wattle

breed pork chop and some Cheddar grits.

salinas »136 9tH aVe., new york City

In Manhattan, of course, love doesn’t come

cheap. But in Chelsea, there is plenty to love at

this vibrant Spanish restaurant, which focuses

on the Mediterranean coast and Balearic Islands.

There is no denying the perfection of nibbling

on blistered shishito peppers and Jamón Ibérico

while sitting beneath the inky black New York

City sky under a large, retractable roof. Come

after 12 p.m. on a weekend for brunch, and get a

clear view of the sky and surrounding buildings–

there’s no doubt you’re in the city.

gjelina »1429 aBBot kinney BlVd., VeniCe BeaCH

Thank goodness for the 405, because even on a

bad day, you can finagle your way from LAX to

Gjelina in about 20 minutes. That means if there’s

a layover, you’ve got do whatever you can to get

to Venice Beach for a taste of what is surely some

of the best food in the region. The restaurant

leans Mediterranean, with charcuterie platters

and charred pizzas rife with briny olives, capers

and homemade sausage. But sitting in the cozy

backyard, with portable heaters that get turned

on whenever the temperature even threatens

to dip below 60, I find myself hunkering down

on the long, cushioned couch and plunging my

dessert spoon into a cup of the intensely delicious

butterscotch budino (pudding) topped with fluffy

whipped cream and sea salt.


24

WEATHER PERMITTINGby J U D I T H M A R AEarly Summer Fruit. And a Late Frost.

W E AT H E R P E R M I T T I N G : E A R LY S U M M E R F R U I T. A N D A L AT E F R O S T

25

We admire our local, small farmers

in more ways that we can count. And

their dependency on Mother Nature

to cooperate is just one reason why

they deserve our heartfelt respect and

gratitude. Sadly, the fruit belt across the

Great Lakes area including Michigan,

Pennsylvania, New York State, and

Ontario severely felt her wrath this

spring. An early heat wave in March, then

an extended period of cold weather and

a late April frost to boot, nearly wiped

out the entire fruit crop. Hardest hit

appear to be cherries, apples, peaches

and plums.

cherriesEven though there are over 1,000 varieties

of cherries, there are two major types:

sweet and tart (sour cherries). Everyone

knows what to do with juicy sweet

cherries––pop in your mouth and spit

out the pit. But what about tart cherries?

About 4 cups will make a fi ne cherry pie

and some splendid jam. But a real treat

is to dry them. Take any amount of pitted

tart cherries, simmer them with 2 cups

of sugar and water for 20 minutes, drain

and place in a dehydrator or 165˚F oven

for 3 to 4 hours.

strawberriesOur favorite strawberries are not the

gigantic berries you fi nd year round in

grocery stores. We love the small, dense and

red-all-the-way-through strawberries that

local farmers grow across the country. Our

favorite variety to search for is the Alpine

strawberry (fraises des bois) because it is

tiny, juicy and packed with sweet fl avor.

Michigan grower Peter Klein of Seedling Fruit

claims to have lost 80 to 85% of his apple and

peach crop, more of his pears and a bit less

of his cherries. Lucky for midwest farmers

market patrons, his strawberries, blueberries

and raspberries fared a little better.

So while you’ll see some early summer fruit

still fi lling fruit stands, it is hard to predict

just how scarce a Michigan apple is going to

be come September. We’ll let you know…


26

watermelonJust when the searing heat starts kicking

up dust in Texas and other hot southern

states, watermelons make their refreshing

appearance. How to pick out a ripe one?

Thumping it with your hand may tell you if it

“sounds” juicy, but a better way is to look at its

underside. A ripe watermelon should have a

creamy yellow spot from where it laid on the

ground and ripened in the sun.

blueberriesBlueberries are considered to be a superfruit

with a list of health benefits too long to

mention here. So it is good to know that

blueberries freeze well for future use. Wash

the berries and pat them very dry. Spread

them out in a single layer on a cookie sheet

and freeze them for about 3 hours. Quickly

transfer the frozen berries to a freezer bag

and lay flat in the freezer to store.

raspberriesOdds are you won’t find raspberries at

farmers markets in areas that have high

year round temperatures. But in the East,

Northeast, Midwest, North and on the

West Coast, they are plentiful starting in

late June and July. Raspberries come in

rich colors of red, purple, black and gold,

with gold being the sweetest.

W E AT H E R P E R M I T T I N G : E A R LY S U M M E R F R U I T. A N D A L AT E F R O S T

27

Eighty-two percent of apricots grown in the US

are dried. So if you are lucky enough to fi nd some

fresh apricots at the market, enjoy this rare treat.

You can nibble them like you would a peach, or

you can be inventive. Any tart, jam, cake or pie

recipe that contains peaches or nectarines can

be substituted with apricots.

How to select a ripe melon? Sniff it. If it smells

sweet, then it is ripe. If you are not eating a

melon right away, don’t buy it ripe. Let it sit at

room temperature for a couple days, and when

you smell a fragrant aroma you’ll know that it is

begging to be eaten.

apricots

cantaloupe


giuseppe tentori

P O R T R A I T O F A

C H E Fb y K AT E B E R N O T

P O R T R A I T O F A C H E F : G I U S E P P E T E N T O R I28

29

An obsession with seasonal ingredients,

Italian technique, and fresh seafood has

earned him a Michelin star and the title

of Food & Wine’s Best New Chef 2008.

But it’s his warm hospitality that makes

each meal at his restaurants especially

memorable. We invited Sarah Gruene-

berg, the subject of last issue’s “Portrait

of a Chef”, to submit the questions she’s

been dying to ask Giuseppe…. and forced

him to answer them.

what’s your most embarrassing kitchen moment?

My most embarrassing moment happened

when I was working at Charlie Trotter’s in

1998. I was working the vegetable station,

and I was using white truffles. I just put

two pieces of shaved white truffle on a dish,

because they’re very expensive. I thought I

was doing the guy a favor. And I remember

Charlie yelling at me: “Are you Italian or

what?” I learned that if you’re going to use

something, you better really use it.

what ingredient do you cook with that would surprise people?

Licorice. At BOKA I used to do short ribs

braised in licorice—not even fennel, just

regular black licorice.

what’s the secret ingredient in your legendary clam chowder?

Really, Sarah? Okay. It’s bacon and

cornstarch.

when mentoring, what’s the trait you most look for in a young cook?

Their care and passion. The other night, I

had to yell at one of my guys on the line

because he put a dish up for the server and

he knew it wasn’t cooked right. I pulled

him aside and explained to him, it’s very

important that you do this right, because at

the end of the day, you have to be proud of

what you do. And he understood that.

if you were going to open another restaurant, what would the concept be?

An Italian steakhouse. That’s my dream.


From a childhood spent on his

grandmother’s farm in Italy to a

career at the helm of Chicago’s

BOKA and GT Fish & Oyster,

Giuseppe Tentori has always

let his passions guide him.

AT GT Fish & Oyster, Giuseppe Tentori

serves seasonal King Crab legs with clarified

butter and aromatic citrus wedges.

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S O N E b y

K AT E B E R N O T

portraits by

SMILEBOOTH

PUO

S T O N E S O U P

31

Imagine a modern, urban dinner party

inspired by the classic folktale of Stone

Soup. At the start of this canonical

story, a trio of hungry and weary

travelers arrives in a village in search

of a warm meal. A large cauldron

in the town square is fi lled with

water and one simple, smooth stone.

Despite a scarcity of ingredients, the

townspeople each contribute one item

from their pantries to the pot, until

the fl avors blend to produce a hearty,

comforting stew. Stone Soup is a tale

of cooperation and generosity,

of coming together for a shared meal

and a warm welcome. This story is

also the perfect model for the sort of

non-traditional potluck that only

Stephen Hamilton could plan.


32

Decisively, he tucked those dog-eared copies

of Gourmet and sauce-splattered Silver Palate

cookbooks back on the shelves in favor of a

more spontaneous meal. He approached the

dinner party the way he does photography,

always beginning with the question: “How

can I do this differently?”

He found his answer in the tale of Stone

Soup, a storybook that he often read to his

children when they were young. To make this

ancient tale of community and teamwork

come alive for the 21st century, Stephen set

a few ground rules for his party invitees: No

recipes. No planning. No pressure.

When Stephen Hamilton

decided to throw an early

summer dinner party, the

first step he took was to

cast aside all his recipes.

S T O N E S O U P

33

Ten guests would arrive at his home,

where ample proteins, vegetables, herbs,

and seasonings would be provided. Then,

everyone, regardless of his or her level of

culinary prowess, would cook a dish. The

goal was to swap meticulous planning for

spontaneity. Like a confi dent photographer

working with natural light and real

subjects, guests were asked to loosen up,

work with what they were given, and have

a fantastic time along the way.

When the evening of the party arrived,

a varied crowd assembled around the

kitchen’s center island. Among the guests

were cooks of all levels, from curious home

cooks all the way to some of the nation’s

top chefs, including Rodelio Aglibot (star of

TLC’s “Food Buddha”), Giuseppe Tentori (of

Chicago’s BOKA and GT Fish & Oyster), and

Celeste Campise (pastry chef at Chicago’s

Michelin-starred Spiaggia). But like a good

stew, each ingredient—and each cook—

mattered. Prop stylists, photographers,

graphic designers, and real estate agents all

tied on their aprons too, ready to add their

fl avor to the meal.

“These are the ingredients I picked up at

the market,” Stephen announced to the

culinary army. “We have more than enough

protein, fruit, and vegetables, and you’re

also welcome to use all the condiments

and dry goods in my pantry, plus whatever

herbs are growing on my deck. Alright, let’s

get cooking!”

P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y S T E P H E N H A M I LT O N & A N D R E W B U R K L E

34

As is true of many dinner

parties, there was a sense of

unfamiliarity at the beginning

of the evening. Many of the

diners had not met each other

before, and were diverse in

age, profession, hometown,

and ethnicity. But because

the host traded small talk

and canapés for an on-

the-fl y potluck feast, new

acquaintances became fast

friends with little effort.

S T O N E S O U P

35

There is something about the

act of cooking a meal that brings

out a person’s character. True to

form, Giuseppe Tentori played

the entertainer, calmly preparing

charred Brussels sprouts and

pancetta while simultaneously

keeping an eye on pork loin

sautéing in a pan. Prop stylist

Juan Palomino stirred a fl avorful,

vibrant pot of yellow rice for

paella as he explained the native

foods of his home country of

Colombia. He swapped stories

of South American travel with

graphic designer Sam Jorden,

who began to marinate tender

rock shrimp in blood orange

and spicy red pepper sauce.

Photographers Matt and Stevi

Savage set up a Smilebooth

which—along with a few

glasses of red wine—prompted

everyone to let loose in front of

the camera.

P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y S T E P H E N H A M I LT O N & A N D R E W B U R K L E

36

While laughter bounced around the room like

sunbeams, myriad scents wafted from the

stovetop: tangy Vietnamese fish sauce, grilled

fennel, rich roasting lamb chops, and buttery

baked profiteroles. This wasn’t the fussy,

multi-course meal that one would pluck from

the pages of a magazine, but it was a family-

style feast made better for its contrasts.

S T O N E S O U P

37P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y S T E P H E N H A M I LT O N & A N D R E W B U R K L E

Using the ingredients

provided, guests came

up with dishes both

familiar and exotic.

Some drew on childhood

memories and family

secrets, while others

took a global approach

and tried their hands at

new dishes.

what the group made »

38

When the cooks had fi nished, platters were

laid out, colorful as a quilt. After the happy

clamor of cooking died down, a reverential

silence followed as the guests contemplated

the meal: a dinner made better for its

diversity, for its juxtaposition of gourmet and

nostalgic, for its familiarity and ingenuity—

a truly contemporary stone soup.

S T O N E S O U P

39

Looking to recreate your own Stone

Soup dinner party? A smart idea is to

stock up on proteins, vegetables, and

herbs that are all in season. If it grows

together, it likely goes together.

Click to view complete grocery list »

39P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y S T E P H E N H A M I LT O N & A N D R E W B U R K L E

40 H I G H S P I R I T S

The star of a great

margarita isn’t fussy

preparation; it’s the

tang of fresh citrus

and the delicious

lick of a salt rim.

That’s why, summer after summer, this

cocktail is king. To keep your recipe

fresh, try coating the lip of the glass with

flavored salts in place of the regular kind.

It adds a twist to the end of each sip,

whether you’re craving spice, citrus, or

herbal flavors.

Sure, you can find these blends at

specialty grocery stores, but they’re just

as easy to make at home. Pulse grated

lime and lemon zest in a blender with

kosher salt or sea salt for an added

citrus pop. Combine equal parts salt and

roasted, grated Szechuan peppers for a bit

of lingering heat. Or, if your herb garden is

in bloom, toss the salt with your freshest

picked leaves. Whichever garnishes you

choose, remember the 2-1-1-1 ratio for

margaritas: Two parts tequila to one part

each lime juice and triple sec, plus one

whole day to enjoy the drinks.

ROCK S T E A DY

b y

K AT E B E R N O T


T H E S I M P L E L I F E 42

T H E S I M P L E L I F E

Celebrity TV chef and cookbook author Sara Moulton

shares her memoir of escaping to Laurel Farm,

her family’s treasured haven

tucked away in rural Massachusetts.

Stephen Hamilton captures her story and recipes

through images from his own great escapes.

b y S A R A M O U LT O N

P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y S T E P H E N H A M I LT O N | R E C I P E S B Y S A R A M O U LT O N 43

44 T H E S I M P L E L I F E

My parents bought a farmhouse with a barn in

northeast Massachusetts when I was seven. Built in

1726, it has beams on the ceiling and six fireplaces,

(including a huge one in the living room with a

big hook for hanging pots, and a baking oven).

The house and barn are surrounded on all sides

by fields and then forest.

45P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y S T E P H E N H A M I LT O N | R E C I P E S B Y S A R A M O U LT O N

We have almost a hundred acres, although

a significant chunk of a back forest has

been taken over by beavers. There is a

pond in the middle of one of the fields

and a stream running through much of

the forest. It is like a wildlife preserve.

It is very, very quiet.

We have almost a hundred

acres, although a significant

chunk of a back forest has

been taken over by beavers.

My folks own it with my aunt and uncle.

Each couple had three kids, all of the kids

got married and most of them had kids.

Now we don’t fit there at one time without

setting up sleeping tents on the back lawn,

which we refer to as the wedding lawn

because many of us got married there.


Every summer since my daughter Ruthie was four, my little

family—me, the husband and two kids—go up for a week in

late August, just the four of us.

I look forward to it all year. But it takes

awhile to get adjusted. We are not used to

the country and its silence, or its animal

sounds. The frogs wake us up at night. We

worry about the ax murderers breaking in.

It doesn’t help that there is a ghost. Old

farmer Heywood’s brother was murdered

in the barn in the late 1930s by two young

thugs from a nearby town looking for

money. Sometimes we think we hear him.

But finally, we get into a routine and relax.

There is a framed photo by the front door

in the kitchen, a New Yorker cartoon that

depicts a business man coming up from

the subway into a beautiful forest. That

is how we feel after a day or two. My kids

(now 25 and 21) like to play tennis on our

beaten up court and Ping-Pong in the barn.

My husband checks out all the yard sales

and flea markets, scouring for Christmas

music for his annual Christmas DVD. Me,

I read books and take long rigorous walks

and, oddly enough, focus on making

new recipes.

It helps that we usually have a good-size

vegetable garden in the backyard. Everyone

gets together and plants on Memorial

Day weekend. There are always assorted

lettuces, broccoli, tomatoes (big and

cherry), chiles, squashes, and herbs. The

row of raspberry bushes has already shed

its crop before we get there, but usually

the wild blueberries are ripening during

our stay. And we can supplement from a

farm stand down the road that not only

has fresh corn every day (August is the best

time for corn), but also sells other fruits,

vegetables and locally raised lamb, pork

and beef.


mexican-style street corn( makes 4 servings )

4 ears corn, husks removed, 1/3 cup

mayonnaise, 1/4 cup fresh herbs such as

cilantro, oregano, basil, thyme or parsley,

or a mixture, 1/2 garlic clove, minced, 1/4

pound very cold Cheddar cheese



slow-roasted spiced baby back ribs(makes 6 servings)

6 pounds baby back ribs,¼ cup sweet or hot paprika, 2 tablespoons kosher salt

½ cup fi rmly packed dark brown sugar, ¼ cup chili powder, 5 to 6 garlic cloves, minced,

2 tablespoons ground cumin, 1 tablespoon dry mustard, 1 teaspoon cayenne pepper or

more to taste, 4 cups your favorite store-bought barbecue sauce


49PHOTOGRAPHY BY STEPHEN HAMILTON | RECIPES BY SARA MOULTON

The town center boasts two churches, a

town green complete with bandstand for

Wednesday night concerts, and a run-

down old general store that sells penny

candy, hardware, wine, a few staples,

and tucked in the back, a butcher shop

and deli run by Pat and Linda. Pat makes

a large variety of excellent sausages.

Sometimes when we are lucky, we get

there just as he is fi nishing his homemade

kielbasa and he will give us a warm piece

right out of the smoker.


The light at that time of day, especially

in August, is magical. We can see the

wedding lawn, back field and pond

from this vantage point. Sometimes

there is a great blue heron hanging out

by the water hunting frogs. We put in

a stone fountain two years ago for my

parent’s anniversary which provides a

soothing sound track.

The most important part of the

day for me is from 6:00 to 7:00

when we all go out and sit behind

the house next to the flower

garden, drink a glass of wine or

gin and tonic and hang out.


sparkling watermelon lemonade ( makes 6 drinks )

4 cups cubed fresh watermelon (seeds

removed), 5 to 6 tablespoons superfi ne

sugar or to taste, 1/2 cup fresh lemon

juice, seltzer, well chilled, Fresh mint

or herb sprigs for garnish



dill pickle cucumber slices ( makes 1 1/3 cups )

One 5 to 6 inch piece cucumber,

1/4 red onion, sliced thin,

2 tablespoons fresh dill leaves or

1 teaspoon dried, 2 tablespoons

cider vinegar, 1 1/2 teaspoons

sugar, 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt,

1/8 teaspoon freshly ground black

pepper, 4 large romaine lettuce leaves



“Fried” Catfish Sandwich( makes 4 servings )

8 slices bacon - optional, 2 plum tomatoes, Kosher salt, ¾ c mayon-

naise, ¼ c fresh basil leaves, ½ teaspoon freshly grated lemon zest,

Freshly ground black pepper, 4 slices fi rm white bread, ¼ c Wondra

or unbleached all-purpose fl our, 1 large egg , Four 4 oz catfi sh fi l-

lets, ¼ c extra virgin olive oil, 8 slices rustic bread

4 large romaine lettuce leaves


I prep dinner from 5:30 to 6:00, and then

the kids join me after cocktail hour to fi nish

making the dishes. We eat at the kitchen table,

a wooden picnic table covered with a colorful

plastic tablecloth and cloth napkins. I insist on

lighting candles although I don’t think anyone

else cares. We make simple fare, eat it with

pleasure, and talk about the day just past and

the one to come. Occasionally I manage to

drag everyone out to the back fi eld to look at

the stars. Then we go to bed and try not to be

distracted by the things in nature that go bump

in the night.

5454 H O W W E D I D I T

Deconstructing a shot

from Stephen Hamilton’s

The Restaurant Project

favorite dish

Tostada De Pollo

with a Tecate Margarita

Restaurant

Big Star, Chicago

food stylist

Carol Smoler

prop stylist

Tom Hamilton

HOW WE DID IT

b y J U D I T H M A R A


E A R LY S U M M E R 2 0 1 2

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Who's Hungry? Magazine | Early Summer 2012 | No 2