Jeweller Magazine December 2011

JewellerDecember 2011 £6.50 The Voice of The Industry

the

The Jeweller is produced in conjunction with the British Jewellers’ Association

Keeping up appearances – display and store design ideasTop tips to achieve RJC certification • NAG 2011 review

Keeping up appearances – display and store design ideasTop tips to achieve RJC certification • NAG 2011 review

Jewellerthe

The Voice of the Industry 3

Contents |

Showing Off 32

There’s no time like the present – financial downturn

or not – to ramp up the shop-fit wow factor.

Belinda Morris talks to jewellers who are drawing in

customers with a bright new look.

Boxing Clever 42

Mary Brittain discovers how packaging companies

are working hard to help jewellers get their branding

message across to the customer

Setting a Good Example 46

As the number of UK jewellery businesses achieving

RJC certification steadily increases, Harriet Kelsall

describes the process in the hope that others will

take up the challenge

C O N T E N T S D E C 1 1

The National Association

of Goldsmiths

78a Luke Street,

London EC2A 4XG

Tel: 020 7613 4445

www.jewellers-online.org

Editor: Belinda Morris

Tel: 01692 538007

[email protected]

BJA Marketing & PR Manager:

Lindsey Straughton

[email protected]

Tel: 0121 237 1110

Sales Director: Ian Francis

Tel: 020 7613 4445

Fax: 020 7729 0143

[email protected]

Classified Advertising:

Neil Oakford

[email protected]

Art Director: Ben Page

[email protected]

Contributors:

Mary Brittain, Tony Gordon,

Miles Hoare, Jo Young

The Jeweller is published by the National Association ofGoldsmiths for circulation to members. For more informationabout The Jeweller visit: www.thejewellermagazine.com

The magazine is printed on paper and board that has metacceptable environmental accreditation standards.

Although every effort is made to ensure that the information supplied is accurate, the NAG disclaims and/or does not accept liability for any loss, damage or claim whatsoever that may result from the information given. Information and ideas are forguidance only and members should always consult their own professional advisers.The NAG accepts no responsibility for any advertiser, advertisement or insert in TheJeweller. Anyone having dealings with any advertiser must rely on their own enquiries.

Communiqué 4

Editor’s Letter 7

Industry News 8

NAG News 14

Member of the Month 16

Education & Training 18

IRV Review 20

BJA News 23

Jeweller Picks 26

Simon Says 30

Financial Jeweller 40

Security 44

Opinion: Tony Gordon 50

Insurance Matters 52

Legal Jeweller 54

Antique Jewellery 56

Letters 60

Notebook 62

Display Cabinet 64

The Last Word 66

JewellerThe Voice of The Industry www.thejewellermagazine.com

the

Cover ImageIn conjunction with

Hallmark Design and Shopfitting Ltd266 Kings Road, Kingstanding,

Birmingham, West Midlands B44 0SA Tel: 0121 355 3333 Fax 0121 355 5017

Email: [email protected]

Seven circles of Hell?Getting around London by public transportisn’t much fun at the best of times, so I mustconfess to having had mixed feelings aboutthe forthcoming Olympics. The Tube at rushhour is regularly like a scene from Dante’sInferno; add thousands of extra visitors and spectators – plus their rucksacks – andthe prospects for summer 2012 look grim. Transport for London predictions ofmeltdown and helpful suggestions likeavoiding the Tube had me, like others, contemplating an exodus for the games’duration. But that is to concentrate on thenegative. The reality is that next year thereare some exciting opportunities for business,and not just in the capital.

Besides the Olympics there’s the CulturalOlympiad, and we mustn’t forget theQueen’s Diamond Jubilee celebrations; butto take advantage needs prior planning. Is itworth it, and will only London benefit?Judging from what the British Business Clubtell me the Olympics have the potential togive the UK economy a boast of about £5.1billion in the long term, with immediate consumer spending of £750 million, sothere is money to be had. And it’s not allconcentrated in the South East. With variouscountries and sporting disciplines already

setting up pre-games training camps aroundthe country, and trade and inward missionsalready planning to travel to the UK there are opportunities over and above the obvious ones like providing corporatehospitality. Vancouver estimates that 2,500jobs were created as a result of businesscontacts made at the 2010 Winter Olympics,and Sydney has built on its sporting heritage since the games and claims tohave had over 11 million visitors to theOlympic Stadium since their event.

On the cultural side, various countries will be setting up national houses through-out 2012 to showcase their national characteristics. Fifteen venues are alreadyknown, and include Brazil, which will be taking Somerset House; the Czech Republictaking The Business Design Centre; Italy, the Queen Elizabeth II Conference Centre;and Switzerland at Glaziers’ Hall. More willfollow, but each will bring with it a retinue ofstaff and business contacts eager to spendtheir money. But, you might ask, “Isn’t it toolate for my company to get involved?” Theanswer apparently is ‘no’! The main Olympicwindow will stretch from March through toDecember 2012 and, apart from those withlicences actively looking for retailers to distribute their goods, there are still plenty of

opportunities to run Olympic themed activities.Again, according to the British BusinessClub, now is the time to think of the who,what and where of your Olympic event.

The top and bottom of itIn a difficult month for the economy, andparticularly retail, there has come moreunwelcome news about unemploymentlevels, especially among the young.Unemployment in the UK rose by 129,000in the three months to September to 2.62million; of those 1.02 million were between16 and 24 years old. At the same time, thenumber of self-employed reached a recordhigh of 4.09 million. Clearly the figures aren’tgood. The private sector is yet to generatesufficient jobs to absorb those shed by thepublic sector, and reading between the linesthere is as big a problem with the ‘under-employed’ as the unemployed. I mean oldermanagers taking short term assignments as‘consultants’; and young people, subsidised bytheir parents, making do with part-time work.

The young need to find their way in world;however another, less known, statistic showsthat you can teach old dogs new tricks. In the same week as the unemploymentstatistics came the news that the £1.4bn skillstraining scheme, intended to ameliorate

M I C H A E L H O A R E ’ S

CommuniquéMichael Hoare has a change of heart on the subject of theOlympics, considers the flip-side of the employment issue and rejoices in the continuing demise of the carrier bag.

| Comment

4 The Jeweller December 2011

youth unemployment, has seen a huge increase in uptake. Not sur-prising you might say. The figures, according to Further EducationWeekly, show that for those between 25 and 34 there has been a179% increase. But outstripping all others are the over 60s with an878% rise in registrations. Counter-intuitive you might think, untilyou realise that with no upper limit on the working age, and statepensions coming later, today’s sixty year old may have anothertwenty years of working life ahead. Just time to enjoy another career!

Bin there done that!Some months ago I wrote an item entitled ‘Taxes in the Bin’ aboutthe Irish Republic’s efforts to reduce the number of carrier bags incirculation, for both environmental and aesthetic reasons. Now theWelsh have followed suit, and from 1st October 2011, there hasbeen a minimum charge of 5p on all single use carrier bags. TheWelsh Government having concluded that this charge should beenough to influence consumer behavior and reduce the number ofbags given out without putting an unnecessary burden on shoppers.

Apparently Welsh shoppers took home an estimated 350 millioncarrier bags from the major supermarkets alone in 2009 – or 273bags per household excluding those from high street stores andsmaller shops. As the result of a voluntary agreement, members ofthe British Retail Consortium managed to make a 49% reductionagainst 2006 levels. Now, in the face of slowing progress, the chargehas been introduced to push the target even higher.

My own experience is that although we have an ample supply ofreusable ‘bags for life’ at home, memory failure or impulse buyingoften mean having to buy yet another single use bag, and this is the experience of about 40% of fellow shoppers. Clearly this can’tcontinue on a national scale, as it is estimated that UK shoppers go through 13,000 carrier bags in their lifetimes (DEFRA); 80% ofBritish shoppers put everything into free shopping bags; polyethyleneis not bio-degradable with each taking 500-1000 years to decompose;and even if they are biodegradable and fully compostable, they stillrepresent a waste of resources.

Welsh retailers are being encouraged to help by displaying posters,making reusable bags more appealing, and giving positive incentivesfor customers to bring their own bags. Meanwhile, further afield,sportswear manufacturer Puma has announced that their kit willsoon be recyclable. Talking to a German business magazine, FranzKoch said “We are confident that in the near future we will be ableto bring the first shoes, T shirts and bags that are either compostableor recyclable to the market.” It appears that the company is follow-ing the ‘Cradle to Cradle’ principles expounded by McDonough andBraungart in their 2002 book of the same name.

Professor Braungart is an advocate of the skillful use and re-useof materials so that environmental concerns do not limit economicgrowth. In practical terms it means that in the future Puma sportsequipment can be shredded and added to the potato peel and eggshells on the compost heap. It’s a laudable ambition, but is it a greatleap forward? My recollection of my teenage sons’ trainers was thatthey always smelled like a compost heap and I assumed they werealready decomposing!


Comment |


Comment |

Can there be any shop window more (potentially) Christmassy than a jeweller’s? The very

nature of our industry, the precious goods we have around us, really is the stuff of dreams.

Descriptions like ‘Aladdin’s Cave’ and ‘Treasure Trove’ are used when discussing a sparkling

profusion of our stock-in-trade. So it stands to reason that a beautifully-dressed window, at this

time of year particularly, should have more than an air of magic and glamour about it.

Please, if you have such a window, it’s not too late enter it in our Christmas Window Display

Competition. Just take a picture of it and wing it over to me – you may just win a bottle of

bubbly for your efforts!

It seems that for many of you, this will be the first Christmas for your brand spanking new

shop re-furb. It may be financially gloomy out there, but it hasn’t prevented a healthy number

of jewellers from giving their shops a new look. It could be anything from a complete face lift

to a judicious nip and tuck here and there… but whatever the move, the display equivalent

of Botox can only help further to lure the Christmas shoppers. Turn to page 32 for display tips,

case histories and some shop-fitting news, views and developments.

I don’t wish to cast a shadow over this happily hectic time of year, but aside from the

Champagne, mince pies and special festive gift-wrap, particular attention should also be paid

to security. If you haven’t done so already, I urge you to sign up to the SaferGems initiative.

It’s been proven to work and surely everyone could do with a little extra help (and several

more pairs of eyes) when it comes to protecting shop, stock, staff, customers… and yourself?

So all that remains is for me, on behalf of The Jeweller team, to wish you all a safe, prosperous,

fun-filled and very happy Christmas. See you at the start of what has to be a great New Year!

Page 46

Page 32

Editor’sLetter

This month:

“…we need to think aboutwhat we really want as ajewellery industry. Do wewant to make sure we arebehaving as responsiblyas we can? Yes.”

“Fierce competition is driving jewellers toimprove their look andthe presentation of theirstock. It’s not just tomaintain business, but to increase their slice of the cake.”

If you would like to comment on any of the issues raised in this edition of The Jewelleror any other trade-related matters please email the editor at: [email protected]

| Industry News


Retail jobs beingcut as sales fall

Fabergé returnsto London

For the first time in almost a century,Fabergé returns to London with a new

home in the heart of Mayfair, approximatelyhalf way between the original Dover andBond Street, which opened in 1906 and1910 respectively.

Due to the repatriation of Russianresources at the beginning of the First WorldWar, the last Fabergé store in London closedin 1915. That store, then located at 173Bond Street, was a renowned destinationvisited by royalty, nobility, potentates,tycoons, socialites and connoisseurs fromaround the world.

The new store features a striking lilac facadefor the festive season, echoing the guillocheand enamel techniques for which Fabergéwas renowned. The distinctive interior –created to appear warm as well as modern– is a fusion of old and new. The shop carriespieces from the key Fabergé collectionincluding: Les Fabuleuses de Fabergé, theSolyanka Treasures, the one-of-a-kind highjewellery egg pendants and the line of men’sand women’s watches.

Amagnificent 22.87 carat diamond solitairering is just one of the highlights of the

Bonhams Fine Jewellery Auction in NewYork on 13th December. It is one of a group of four ‘exceptional’ pieces from a private Californian collection. “The emerald-cut D flawless clarity, type IIa is a rare diamond,” explains Susan Abeles, directorof Jewellery US at Bonhams. “It belongs toan exclusive category of diamonds becauseof its colour, clarity and classification. Rarelydoes one find these superior qualities,

which have long been associated with theGolconda diamonds.”

Also included in the collection is a fancy yellow diamond necklace with a total weight of yellow diamonds of 82.26 carats,alternating with nearly colourless diamondsweighing 27.10 carats (estimated price$500,000-$750,000). This necklace is alsooffered in the sale with a similar braceletand pendant earrings.

A selection of outstanding diamonds, natural pearls and important signed pieces

were the highlights ofthe Fine JewellerySales that took placeon 8th December atBonhams, New BondStreet, London. Thetop lot of the sale wasa top quality diamond – an internally flawless,marquise-cut diamond ring, D colour weighing 9.22 carats, estimated to sell for£500,000-£700,000). The largest diamondin the sale, a brilliant cut diamond ringweighing 24.47 carats, was predicted to sellfor £170,00-£220,000.

Bonhams’ rare diamond sale

High street sales volumes fell, on a year ago in November, for the sixth consecutive month,with retailers expecting another decline in December, according to the CBI. Meanwhile

retailers are reducing their headcount at the fastest rate in two years. The CBI’s latest quarterly Distributive Trades Survey revealed that 26 per cent of retailers saw the volume ofsales rise in the year to November, while 44 per cent said they fell. The resulting roundedbalance of -19 per cent was weaker than expected (a balance of + four per cent) and represents the fastest decline in sales since March 2009 (-44 per cent).

However the news is not a black and white matter says the NAG’s CEO Michael Hoare.“This is a more complex issue than it appears at first glance. Not all retail sectors have reactedto the downturn in sales in the same way. While fashion retailers are cutting staff, jewellersrecognise that theirs is a specialist product that needs trained staff to sell; and for securityreasons alone staff numbers must not drop below an optimum level,” he explains.

“So, while our recent business survey showed that business confidence is at a very lowebb, jewellers were not planning cuts in manpower. Undoubtedly, the rise in VAT had aneffect on margins in fast moving sectors; the mild weather has affected clothing sales; andboth may have been the catalyst for job cuts. But it must also be remembered that the retaillandscape has been changing dramatically of late. For example, internet retailers need lessshops and less shop staff to achieve the same results as before, so there is no simple causeand effect here,” he adds.

The CBI’s announcement came ahead of the Chancellor’s Autumn Statement on 29thNovember and coincided with research launched by the British Retail Consortium whichgives ‘new evidence on retailing’s importance to kick-starting growth and job creation’. Theresearch – ‘UK Retailing: leading globally, serving locally’ – brings together data on all facetsof retailing for the first time. It makes the case for urgent action from the Chancellor – notjust statements of intent – to implement a credible plan for economic growth in which retailcan power the recovery.

The report, produced for the BRC by Oxford Economics and the Oxford Institute of Retail Management, shows that the sector – a great British success story – makes major contributions to: the economy (£292bn. of retail sales in 2010, 20 per cent of GDP, £180bn.of goods purchased for resale and £47bn. of goods and services used by retailers themselves)and employment (10.5 per cent of all jobs, 40 per cent of under 20s employment, 12 percent of total UK investment in training). Retailers already make substantial contribution to theExchequer (£18bn. from the four largest taxes alone).


Industry News |

S N I P P E T SAssay Office launches valuation service

The Sheffield Assay Office has collaboratedwith the Guild of Valuers to offer professionalbranded valuations on jewellery, watchesand silverware. With a same-day serviceavailable on its Valuation Days it can alsooffer a drop-off service, on-site visits at various locations and a quick turnaround onpostal valuations. The first Valuation Daytook place on 1st December. Prices aredependent on the total value of all itemscontained in the valuation. For informationon services and prices or to book a valuation appointment call 0114 231 2121or email: [email protected]

Mastermelt joins LBMA

Last month, precious metal reclamationcompany Mastermelt Ltd, was accepted asan associate member of the prestigiousLondon Bullion Market Association. TheLBMA is the principal body involved in thebuying and selling of physical gold and silver. Its membership is made up of leading international refiners, banks andbrokers, including all of the companiesinvolved in setting the daily gold and silverfixes. Gary Williams, head of PresmanMastermelts’ jewellery division said: “Weconsider it an honour to have been acceptedas an associate member and we look forward to taking an active role in thefuture.” Mastermelts Ltd is the parent company of Presman (Bullion) Ltd, the UK’soldest trade only scrap buying counter.

WF&Co introduced

Watchfinder, the on-line retailer of pre-ownedfine watches has been re-branded asWF&Co, with which moniker comes a number of new services for its customers,such as on-line magazine, membershipscheme, customer events, as well as a vintage watch section. More than 1,000pre-owned watches are held in stock, allsupported by a 12 month warranty, andnew watch sales are referred to a networkof authorised retailers. Many people needto sell a watch in order to buy a new one, and WF&Co is able to help retailers todo that – as well as being an outlet forretailers’ discontinued stock.

EC One winner named

Lapponia presents guest designer

Clarice Price-Thomas is the winner of EC One’s graduate jewellery design competition –EC One Unsigned. This year’s competition was judged by industry professionals including

Jos Skeates, jeweller designer and founder of the London-based shop, jewellery designerWilliam Cheshire and Rebecca Van Rooijen from Benchpeg.

“We were so pleased with the level of entries for the second year of the competition,” saysSkeates. “Clarice has produced work that really captured our imagination and her meticulousattention to detail and innovative way of bringing watch-making skills to jewellery, won usover. We expect great things from her – she could easily translate her work into a viable collection for most boutique jewellers.”

Clarice’s ‘Time Never Stops’ collection was created froma fascination with horology and time and is an intricateamalgamation of watch making and jewellery design. As the daughter of a watchmaker Clarice grew up surrounded by elements of that trade and was taught atan early age how to take a watch apart. The collectionincludes necklaces, earrings and rings, some of whichfeature moving parts, that, when turned, reveal the word‘love’. Clarice will now work closely with Jos and Alison Skeates, along with EC One’s in-housegoldsmith Jude Huntley to create a collection to be sold by the shop.

Finnish jewellery brand Lapponia hasannounced that Mari Isopahkala is to

be its Guest Designer 2012, after hercompetition entry entitled Pisara ‘Drop’won the first prize in the Next Episode jewellery design competition tocelebrate the company’s 50th anniversary.Mari’s unique entry serves as a basis forLapponia’s Winter Pearl collection.

In the award-winning Pisara jewellery the clusters of glimmering silver parts depict morningdew on leaves and grass. Mari’s original piece was turned into the Winter Pearl collectionthrough the addition of a new element – frost – conveyed by the rimy matte surface. Withthe assistance of one of Lapponia’s model goldsmiths, technical solutions were worked outand realised in the designed material – silver.

Wolverhampton jeweller John Henn of TA Henn is planning a motor bike ride from JohnO’Groats to Land’s End next April, to raise funds for a Motor Neurone Disease charity.

“Simon Cupitt, a jewellery designer maker, NAG member and all round solid gold man, has recently been diagnosed with the disease, at the age of 42,” explains Henn. “There arechallenging times ahead for him and his family, and as the grapevine has a habit of distortingreality I wanted to speak on Simon’s behalf. He is not looking for sympathy, just support fromall his friends and colleagues out there in Jewellery Land. Please feel free to email him yourpositive vibes (telephoning would be difficult) on [email protected] or write to himat the store: Cupitt Jewellers, Beech Tree House, 16 The Strand, Bromsgrove, Worcestershire,B61 8AB.” Henn’s Opinion feature in the next issue of The Jeweller will outline further detailsof the ride which will take place with the support of BMW motorbikes.

Charity motor bike ride

| Industry News


S N I P P E T SiPhone Apps for Signet

H. Samuel and Ernest Jones launched iPhoneApplications last month – the latest in astring of technological advances aimed atmaking purchases easier for the consumer,that the high street jewellers have implemented. Building on the success ofhsamuel.co.uk, Signet has also lauunchedlive webchat assistance on both sites,meaning that customers are able to discusstheir purchase and seek advice as they visitthe site. “Jewellery is an involved and emotional purchase, requiring real expertadvice,” says Julian Shirley, Signet’s head ofMultiChannel. “We want our customers tobe further reassured that we are with themevery step of the process, whichever channelthey choose to make their purchase.”

Award for CW Sellors

Following a record number of entries for theMidlands Family Business Awards, fine jewellers CW Sellors has been awarded runner-up in the Business of the Year category, at the event held last month. Theawards are judged by an independentpanel which takes into consideration theway businesses are run, their commitmentto staff training and welfare, outstandingcustomer service, turnover, innovation, family values and work in the community. Inthe case of CW Sellors, the judges paid specialtribute to the ‘beautiful product’ created.

Gold from Lola Rose

Fashion jewellery brand Lola Rose, foundedover 10 years ago and specialising in all-coloured stone pieces, will be launchingits first ever metal-based jewellery forSpring/Summer 2012.Taking inspiration fromRoman coin designs, theShield Ring features a beat-en gold-plated face that issoftened with a Swarovskicoloured crystal border.

Chet Baker watchlaunched by Oris

The latest edition to Oris’ ‘Cultre’ collection is a watch thatcelebrates the musical talent of Chet Baker. Renowned

for his rendition of My Funny Valentine, the hour indexes on the black dial are bars from the song and the 12 o’clockposition features the little clef, while the double bar line at8 o’clock represents the first eight bars of the song whichhave to be repeated.

The limited edition watch has a stainless steel case, withdouble curved sapphire crystal and a non-reflective coatingon the inside. The case back features a silhouette of Bakerwith his trumpet and the watch’s limited number, 1929 –the year of Baker’s birth. The strap is black leather with acrocodile imprint. The watch is presented in a unique boxwith a mechanically-driven metronome.

Introducing Fashion AngelThe brainchild of Alison Lewy, Fashion Angel provides mentoring, networking and business

funding for both new and established fashion industry entrepreneurs. The initiative seeksto challenge the high failure rate of designer and SME businesses in part due to lack of business skills, entrepreneurial training and underinvestment, by providing specialist mentoring and support from a collective of industry professionals.

Fashion Angel offers support in all aspects of a fashion-related business, whether it’s strategic,operational, specific issues or preparing a business for investment. It can help anyone with anew label, innovative idea, product or service in the fashion, jewellery or homewares sectors.

It also provides the link between angel investors that are committed to supporting theindustry and viable businesses looking for external funding to grow. The Fashion AngelBusiness Club is a networking community for creative businesses offering events and workshops that celebrate and support cutting edge design talent. The group will run regularnetworking events featuring speakers on topics of interest. www.fashion-angel.co.uk

The Gemmological Institute of America (GIA) has harnessed new technology to help educate and engage consumers on the four Cs of diamond quality. The new GIA 4Cs

iPad App for consumers is now downloadable for free on iTunes. A retailer version of thisApp, designed to be used at point of sale, is also downloadable for free from GIA’s retailersupport site: www.retailer.gia.edu

Both versions of the App feature video and interactive tools that teach consumers how GIAgrades diamonds using the four Cs. It explains the GIA grading scales for colour, clarity andcut and how diamond grades can affect value. The App also explains the origins of the caratsystem and provides information about fluorescence, diamond treatments and synthetics.

The App also features direct access to GIA Report Check, a secure online database of GIAgrading reports. Consumers can verify the contents of a GIA report and view a PDF versionof that report – directly from their iPads – by entering a GIA report number and carat weight.The feature also offers retailers the benefit of using reports as selling tools in a quick andconvenient way.

GIA creates 4Cs iPad App

| Industry News


S N I P P E T SAmber competition

Organisers of Amberif, Poland’s Amber,Jewellery and Gemstone Fair (21st-23rdMarch, 2012) have announced the detailsof the annual amber design competition.Open to individual designers as well asmanufacturing teams, the aim is to design‘an original piece of artistic jewellery orapplied art with amber’. As long as amber isthe focus of the piece, any other materialscan be used. Deadlines for entries is 10thFebruary, 2012 and for all details contact:[email protected] or visit: www.amberif.pl

Accolade for Vivienne Johnston

Jeweller Vivienne Johnston, founder ofGlasgow-based Fifi Bijoux, was announcedas one of the Future 100 Young SocialEntrepreneurs of the Year during GlobalEntrepreneurship Week 2011. GEW is ‘aworldwide movement of entreprenerialpeople with enterprising talents, who turntheir ideas into reality’. It began in the UK in2004 as Enterprise Week and since then hasspread to 115 countries, with nearly 24,000organisations. The Future 100 Awards werelaunched in 2008 to recognise and profileyoung entrepreneurs running businessesthat address people, planet and profit.

New stacking rings

Inspired by the famous luxurious shoppingdistrict in Tokyo and tapping into the trendfor layered jewellery, these new ‘Ginza’stacking rings by Tateossian are in sterlingsilver combined with stones such as amethyst,labradorite, onyx and black rutilated quartz.The whole collection, with prices starting at £75, comprises pendants, necklaces,bracelets and earrings as well as the rings,and will be launched in March.

RJC certification updateThe Responsible Jewellery Council has announced that its membership has grown to more

than 350 (and counting) of which, to date, 65 have achieved certification, meeting theethical, human rights, social and environmental standards as established by its MemberCertification System. Significantly for the UK jewellery industry, independent business HarrietKelsall Jewellery Design achieved this milestone in November and earlier this monthBeaverbrooks was also notified of its certification success (turn to p46 to read about first-hand experiences of the process involved).

Other companies that were certified in the last month are: Dialink France SAS, Dianco,interjewel (HK), Saraj Diamonds NV, Shainydiam BVBA, Aspeco NV, Antwerp Star DiamondsNV, Pluczenik Diamond Company NV, Excellent Facets Inc, Glorios Gems BVBA, E. SchreiberInc., Arjav Associates NV, Super Diam BVBA, Leo Schachter Jewelry inc. and Diajewel NV.

Also last month, the RJC announced that it and the not-for-profit organisation DiamondDevelopment Initiative International have agreed a Memorandum of Understanding to work cooperatively on advancing their shared objectives. These include: improving social,environmental and labour practices, and good governance in the artisanal diamond miningsector, enhanced relationships between large-scale and artisanal diamond mining andincreased market access for jewellery raw materials produced by the latter communities.

History of men’s jewellery show

APhD research student at Queen Mary, University of London, has curated a British Museumexhibition of contemporary jewellery inspired by men’s fashion from both the Renaissance

era and today. Natasha Awais-Dean is studying the significance of jewellery owned and worn bymen in the Tudor and Jacobean periods. For the exhibition she asked post-graduate craftsmenand women at Bishopsland Educational Trust, Oxfordshire, to design and make pieces inspiredby the British Museum’s Renaissance jewels, while also considering the tastes of modern men.

During the Renaissance period, men wore as much jewellery as women, Awais-Deanreveals. “Far from just adorning the body, their accessories could reflect their wealth, socialstatus, job, morals and lineage,” she explains. “For this display I wanted similar ideas to beconveyed in the modern pieces. The silversmiths’ works include a business-card holderengraved with the design of a Celtic dragon’s tail; chains inspired by Renaissance chains ofoffice and belt buckles and a brooch in the form of a Tudor chimney. The final collection isnow on display at the British Museum alongside original pieces from early-modern Europeanhistory, and runs until 30th January, 2012.

Diamonds that are fit for a QueenSlightly tangental to the jewellery industry,

but why not? To commemorate the Queen’sDiamond Jubilee next year, British fashion labelJaeger has created a really beautiful diamond printscarf and smaller neckerchief created by StuartStockdale. Oversized diamonds of different cutsfloat on a subtle, dusty pink background. The 100per cent silk pieces, which are sure to be futurecollectors’ items, have been printed in England,are priced at £50 and £99 and will be availablefrom Jaeger stores from February 2012.

| NAG News


Advanced Selling CourseTwo day (date TBC)Aimed at senior sales staff and facilitated byVirada Training – a company that specialisesin sales training for the luxury retail sector –this course focuses on daily real life salessituations, and shares the secrets of salesexcellence. Discover cutting edge salesinnovations and explore practical ways ofcreating a positive buying experience forevery customer; unlock personal potentialand enjoy even greater sales success.

Feedback from delegates:“Structure, content and trainer were superb;I have already recommended the trainingto another jeweller and to my boss so thatother members of our team may attend.”“Amazing; really positive. I can’t wait to putnew ideas and skills into practice.”“One of my staff says it’s the best thing shehas ever done! It has boosted her confidenceno end.”

Selling to Chinese customers Date TBCChinese customers already account for about30 per cent of the luxury goods market inBritain. Are you making the most of this salesopportunity? This one-day course will openeyes to cultural differences and expectations.Your team will learn how to provide the best possible service and maximise sales toChinese customers by creating the rightbuying experience.

Feedback from delegates:“Excellent presentation. Explained thingsclearly and precisely.”“Great. Very informative.”

Essential Display Seminar(18.04.12 and 4.10.12)The first steps to an eye catching shop window including instruction on the theoryand practise of display. Learn how to achievea visually exciting display with this very popular seminar facilitated by Judy Head.

Feedback from delegates:“Very complete. It has definitely improved mydisplay skills.”

Dynamic Display Workshop (23.05.12)Now take your display knowledge to anotherlevel. This new course is for management andsenior sales staff who have already completedthe Essential Display seminar or equivalentand it challenges attendees to design andbuild a new window display that will targetcustomers with a particular promotion –seasonal/Easter/Christmas for instance. Theworkshop will focus not only on display butwill also incorporate a strong marketing element that will require the delegates tolink their display to a plan of promotionalactivity to raise the profile of their store,guided by Judy Head.

Armed Robbery – Reducing the risk andimproving profitability – A Masterclass(1.04.12) This new one-day programme examines thehuman reaction to the impact of a robberyand provides a number of practical skillsthat have been shown to work in real life situations. Facilitated by Training For Successand accredited by the Institute of CriminalJustice Studies at the University of Portsmouththe programme carries both an insight intocurrent research within this area of criminalactivity and effective solutions for robberymanagement that can be applied immedi-ately within the working environment.

Diamonds and Diamond Grading(16/17.10.12)Eric Emms, the leading authority on diamondgrading, offers this practical seminar which

is presented specifically from the retailers’viewpoint. Included in the two-day course isthe identification of diamonds together withtreatments, clarity, colour and many otheraspects of diamond knowledge and a lookat corporate social responsibility issues.

Feedback from delegates:“A good investment to promote sales. I wouldhighly recommend it.”

For more information about NAG Seminarscall Amanda White on 020 7613 4445 oremail: [email protected]

NAG rolls out exciting newseminar programme for 2012

The NAG will be holding the first Council& Forum day on Wednesday 14th March

at the brand new Goldsmiths’ Centre inClerkenwell. The Centre, says the Goldsmiths’Company, promises to be ‘a visionary newdevelopment that will become a hub formembers of the Jewellery, Silversmithingand Allied Trades, the local community andthe general public – a unique space inwhich to work, learn and relax.’

We are very excited to be hosting theCouncil & Forum event at this impressivenew venue and hope that you will also joinus on the day. Further details are yet to beconfirmed. However if you would like toregister your interest please contact RituVerma at the NAG on: 020 7613 4445 oremail: [email protected]

Council &Forum event


NAG News |

New Member Applications

Members wishing to comment on any

of these applications can call Amy Oliver

on tel: 020 7613 4445 or email her at:

[email protected] within three

weeks of receipt of this issue.

Ordinary Member ApplicationsGuess & Co., Surbiton, SurreyDynasty Jewels Ltd, Hatton Garden, London

Allied ApplicationsSolitaire Gemmological Laboratories Ltd, London

Alumni AssociateRoger Mead, Hove, East Sussex

IRV Applications

If members wish to comment on any of

these, please contact Sandra Page on tel:

(029) 2081 3615.

New Member ApplicantsHannah M McWhirter PJDip PJGemDip

PJValDip FGA, Thurlow Champness & Son, Bury St Edmunds

Upgrading from Member to FellowPatricia Negus PJDip PJGemDIp PJValDip,

Durham

Retired/Resigned 2010-11

LapsedFuturo Ltd, Hatton Garden, LondonLionel H Webster, Ashbourne, DerbyshireBoshers Fine Jewels, Woking, SurreyByrne Jewellers, South Okendon, EssexA Baker & Sons Ltd, WarringtonR J Skupham Jeweller, Glossop, DerbyshireSydneys (Leeds) Ltd, Bradford, West YorkshireMeadows Watchmakers and Jewellers, LiverpoolStephen Diggle Jewellers, PeterboroughAurum (Croydon) Ltd, Croydon, SurreyC R Lowry, Lisburne, Co.Antrim, ROIClassic Watches of Warwick, Warwick,

WarwickshireF J Burger, Maidstone, KentGlydon & Guess Ltd,

Kingston-Upon-Thames, SurreyHenry Pidduck, Southport, MerseysideJenny Wren Jewellery, Cowbridge,

South GlamorganJohn Walker Jewellers, Workington, CumbriaJohnston’s of Grange Ltd,

Grange-Over-Sands, CumbriaLamont & Wells, Wimbledon, LondonR & R Stevenson Jewellers,

Haywards Heath, West SussexStoners, Shipley, West YorkshireWM Britton & Sons Ltd, Donegal Town, Donegal

Business Support – NAG Services• Education & Seminars: Discount on

education courses including the newJetPro diploma; last year NAG memberssaved over £100,000 on JET courses.This year we also launch our JET 2Online course. Discounted seminarcourses on a range of topics with experttuition to help your staff improve theirknowledge and boost sales. One andtwo day courses available.

• Executive Development Forum: Expert guidance on retail and businessmanagement issues; the strength of the EDF is the way in which informationand ideas are shared by group membersfor mutual benefit, while retaining fullconfidentiality.

• FREE Legal Helpline: Free legal advicethrough the NAG’s helpline. In 2010,members saved over £21,000 worth of solicitors’ hourly charges.

• Institute of Registered Valuers:Members using the services of anInstitute Registered Valuer can providecustomers with a professional valuationservice and are listed on the websitefree of charge.

• SaferGems: A national initiative in partnership with T H March, that sendsemail alerts to jewellers with informationon suspicious events and incidents.SaferGems works in conjunction with theUK police force and co-ordinates dataacross police forces to improve identification and conviction of criminals.

Information Services• Information Hotline: Access to the

latest trade information, contact detailsand advice from trained industry staff.

• The Jeweller magazine: The leadingtrade magazine is published ten times a year; written by the industry for the industry. Free subscription and discounted advertising for members.

• N:gauge newsletter: A free monthlyonline newsletter; all the latest industryinformation straight to your inbox.

• Website: Access to a wide range offact-files and downloads, web listing for jewellers, and information on NAG activities and services.

RepresentationThe Government, Trading Standards, industryand the media all turn to the Association foradvice. The NAG is a founding member ofthe Responsible Jewellery Council, with ourCEO Michael Hoare being elected as its UKrepresentative of the Trade Association Forum.We also have a strong international presence,in particular through our close associationwith CIBJO, the International JewelleryConfederation.

Recognition• Grant of Arms: Full

members are grantedthe privilege of usingthe NAG’s Grant ofArms on their printedmaterial, in store and on their website;epitomising professionalism and quality,and inspiring customer confidence.

• Logos: Use of the specially designedmembership logo on electronic sources and other material.

• Membership Certificates: Membershipcertificates sent out annually for membersto display in all their branches.

These are just a few of the many benefitsand services the NAG can offer. For moreinformation on our Financial Services andExternal Business Support Providers, contactAmy Oliver: [email protected] visit: www.jewellers-online.org

Update on the NAG’s Grant of ArmsThe National Association of GoldsmithsGrant of Arms is a source of pride for many of our members. It illustrates our credentials as a long-established and well-respected association, not only within thejewellery industry, but in industry as a whole.It epitomises professionalism, quality andinspires customer confidence.

As of 9th November 2011, due to populardemand, the Grant of Arms can now beused by full members of the Association ontheir websites. For more information pleasecontact Amy Oliver on tel: 020 7613 4445or email: [email protected]

NAG membership: How will you benefit?

| NAG News


Congratulations on winning the ‘HuntsPost Huntingdonshire Retailer of theYear’ award for 2010 – what do you thinkmade Piggott’s stand out?We were absolutely thrilled to win theaward. We feel that the thing that made usstand out was the customer service that weoffer. We are very lucky to have motivated,qualified staff that have been with the company for a number of years. They have built fantastic relationships with ourcustomers and take pride in finding the perfect piece of jewellery for them. Through this, we have many repeat customers and have also had some fantasticfeedback on our How was the Piggottsexperience for you? forms which we passedonto the judges of the competition.

The shop offers customers the opportunityto come to its ‘By Invitation Only DiamondEvenings’, which have always been verypopular. This enables them to view a largerange of diamond and gem set jewellerywhile sipping champagne and enjoyingcanapés. We try to make this an experiencefor our customers which locally no otherretailer provides.

You celebrated your 30th anniversary inSt. Ives on the 30th September; whatdrew you to and kept you in the area? We first visited St Ives just over 30 years ago to visit a relative and were so taken bythe small market town in Cambridgeshirethat when we heard one of the jewellerswas retiring we decided to sell our shop in

Wimbledon and move to St Ives. The townis so attractive with the river and ancientbridge and chapel that we decided wewould settle here for good and 10 years ago‘swapped’ our existing very small shop forthe large one we have now and we haven’tlooked back. Curiously on our first visit wearrived by train from Cambridge two weeksbefore the line closure and a few weeks agothe line re-opened as the longest guidedbus way in Europe.

Do you have any special plans for theshop over the Christmas period?We have a new shop floor supervisor whostarted a couple of months ago and has a lot of experience in merchandising –she is working her magic with our windowsin ways we have never done before. Thewindows are fantastic and we are alreadygetting very positive feedback from our customers, so this Christmas we are veryexcited about how the windows will look!

We are also holding a raffle where ourcustomers can win a Toy Watch. All proceedsare going to our local charity MAGPAS,which is an emergency medical charity thatrelies solely on donations. The charity has alittle added meaning for us as this summerone of our ladies was involved in a verynasty car accident and they came to her rescue. We have raised in excess of £2,000so far this year.

Additionally we are holding our salebefore Christmas, which is a first for us inthe 30 years of us trading in St Ives and so

overall we are hoping for a fantastic festivetrading period! The atmosphere at Christmasis lovely in the shop and we add to it byoffering our customers mulled wine in thebuild up to the day.

What do you predict will be the mostpopular items sold in Piggotts this winter season?For us, diamond pendants and earringshave always been popular as Christmasapproaches. We have been able to buysome amazing stock this year and I thinkthey will go very well! Then, of course, thereis the Pandora phenomenon, which for us is working very successfully.

We have also introduced Ti Sento thisyear and it is becoming very popular withour customers. We have also introducedsome new watch brands – Juicy Coutureand Toy Watch – which appear to be goingdown well with our younger customers.

From your experience, what do you thinkwill be the best selling jewellery in theyear ahead?It is rather hard for me to predict what willbe the best selling jewellery in 2012 as thetrade moves at such a rate. For us I thinkthat Ti Sento will be good. We have alsointroduced Babette Wasserman which isstarting to spark a bit of interest, so we arehoping for positive things there!

Every month, I ask our interviewee for ananecdote about their most memorablecustomer- does one spring to mind?My most memorable customer was acharming little old lady who called in andwanted a new battery for her clock, sheasked if we could fit a ‘Durex’ one as shehad heard they lasted a bit longer!

If you would like your business to be considered as Member of the Month,please write in and tell us why! Send anemail to: [email protected]

This issue Amy Oliver speaks to Michael Piggott of PiggottsJewellers in St. Ives, Cambridgeshire. The shop celebrated its 30th anniversary in September of this year, and in 2010 won ‘Hunts Post Huntingdonshire Retailer of the Year’.

NAG member of the MonthMichael and Linda Piggott


| NAG News: Education & Training

Another year is almost over and, as weonce again deck the halls and stuff the

turkey, the NAG has been reflecting on thehighs, lows and in-between bits of 2011.Before the events of the last 12 months areconsigned to the annals of history, nowseems as good a time as any to replay someof the Association’s best moments – itsimpressive achievements as well of those of its members.

Since the year kicked off, the NAG hasmade a number of great strides, particularlyin regard to education and training, with the launch of a number of new courses.Firstly the Association introduced JET Pro –the first course of its kind to offer a flexible modular structure designed specifically toimprove students’ key skills in the overallrunning of a jewellery business. Januaryproved to be a busy month for the education department with the launch ofJET Pro coinciding with the unveiling of theJET 1 Online course and the NAG’s newonline learning environment – both ofwhich were announced at IJL 2010.

Both of these new courses were revealedwhen the NAG took the new ‘Grow YourOwn’ campaign to February’s JewelleryShow. Designed to encourage businessleaders to think about growing the greenshoots out of recession, the campaignhas been continuing to give advice andinformation on cost-effective forms oftraining to ensure our members’ staff are trained to make the most of salesopportunities. The Jewellery Show (at SpringFair) was, as is ever the case, the ideal platform for the Luke Street team to get upclose and personal with our members.

Our continued commitment to educationwas sustained through March, when studentsfrom across the UK & Ireland, came togetherfor the NAG’s annual student award ceremony. For the 66th year running theAssociation invited graduates of the JETcourses to an evening of celebrations in thebeautiful surroundings of the Goldsmiths’Hall’s Livery Hall. A number of students werepraised for their outstanding achievements.For another year, the Greenough Trophywas awarded to the candidate with the

overall highest marks on the JET 2 course,and the Gemstone award went to the highest achiever to receive a GemstoneDiploma. It was another high-scoring yearand after the totals were totted up AbigailStradling of Allum & Sidaway in Dorchestertook away the Greenough Trophy, whileSarah Medhurst of John Medhurst in Bedfordwas presented with the Gemstone award.

April and May saw the NAG continue toprovide training and advice to those at thetop of the business structure, with anotherround of our Executive Development Forum.While Mike McGraw

and Michael Hoare facilitated discussionssurrounding sound business practices formanagers, the education department continued to promote the next round ofeducation improvements. The first of thesearrived in June, with our sold-out ‘Selling toChinese Customers’ course. However, thiswasn’t before the Luke Street staff hit thestreets to continue with our ‘Grow You Own’campaign during the aptly named HattonGarden Festival – a key event of LondonJewellery Week which took place in June.

As we moved into July, there was nosummer break for the educationdepartment as it was busy preparingthe ground for yet another courselaunch. With an overwhelmingresponse to the January launch ofthe online learning environment, the team took its second flagshipcourse – JET 2 – online as of the start of August. Buoyed by the introduction of these courses,the education department was

NAG 2011 highlights

Greenough Trophy award winner AbigailStradling with Patrick Fuller, NAG President

Sarah Medhurst, Gemstone Award winner, withNAG Chairman Nicholas Major and Patrick Fuller

Selling to Chinese Customers’ course


NAG News: Education & Training |

propelled deep into the second half of the year with the results of its yearly survey.The results of this showed that the amountof students enrolling on a JET course grewby over a third.

Entering September on a high, the education department once again had apresence at International Jewellery London.As proud sponsors of this annual industryextravaganza, the NAG team was out inforce to continue helping businesses to ‘grow their own’. In addition to ourusual commitments at IJL, this year the NAG invited two guest speakers togive seminars on SaferGems and Action For Market Towns. In keeping withthe NAG policy to inform and educate,members and non-members alike wereinvited to join us for two talks which hadbeen previewed at the council meetingearlier this year.

As if that wasn’t enough, the educationdepartment has been kept on its toes allyear round with students attending the finaltutorials before their exams at the end ofOctober. As always, the team has been facilitating, aiding and abetting students inthe final month leading up to the exam. And of course we extend our good wishesto all students, and hope for another round

of outstanding results which will be discussedin the bumper issue of The Jeweller early inthe new year, and celebrated in the AnnualAwards evening in March.

Over the last few weeks leading up toChristmas the education department will stillhave its nose to the grindstone as discussionsstart on the promises that 2012 will bring.These will include a new education centredwebsite as well as the new intake of studentsin January – it’s going to be yet anotherexciting year. With the festive period andthe new year done and dusted the education department will be fresh, restedand full of Christmas calories to burn, as it battles to make the most of thechallenges and opportunities to come.

We’d like to thank all students andmembers for their hard work over thelast year, and hope to continue thissuccess into 2012.

In this month’s issue we celebrate anotherwinner of the coveted Bransom JET 1

Project Assignment Award. Held in conjunctionwith Bransom Retail Systems, each monththe NAG’s education department enters allJET 1 assignments into a competition for ‘bestproject’. Selected by the external examiners,the award gives students the chance to berewarded with a trip to the prestigiousGoldsmiths’ Hall, for the presentation of certificates at our annual student award ceremony. Those who successfully completeall five assignments of JET 1 to a satisfactorystandard will be awarded a JET 1 certificateand are then entitled to continue on to JET 2and the completion of the ProfessionalJewellers’ Diploma.

From assignments received during themonth of October, the award goes to PaulaO’Brien of Hilson Jewellers in Glasgow. We’dlike to congratulate Paula on her project –she scooped the prize after presenting a‘first class piece of coursework’. Her tutor,Mark Houghton, told us: “Paula’s work hasbeen of a consistently high standardthroughout the course. Each assignmentwas well researched and referenced makingit easy to follow and a pleasure to mark.Added to that illustrations were amazinglydrawn throughout.”

When we spoke with the project moderators about Paula’s project, they commented that: ‘It is clear that Paula hasspent a great deal of time gathering information for this final piece of work. Shehas demonstrated the practical applicationof diamond product knowledge perfectly.From the way the assignment has beenanswered I am sure that Paula contributesto a very successful sales team. The finalsection dealing with the possible repair/restoration of the diamond ring is outstanding– the proposed solutions for the customerto consider are clearly outlined. Paula is avery worthy winner of the JET 1 BransomAward for October.”

Unsurprisingly Paula was delighted tolearn that she had romped home with thismonth’s top honour. “I’m surprised that it’sme, but it’s a real pleasure to know yourhard work is being acknowledged in such a way,” she said when given the news.

“I’ve spent five years in the trade, initiallystarting my training with a silversmithingcourse. However, as this was mainly workshop-based learning about craft, I wasquite new to the sales side of industry,” sheexplained. “I’d spoken to colleagues whotold me the JET 1 was a great course to geta further understanding of the trade. Aftersome personal research I decided this wasthe best option for me. I found the coursean excellent introduction into the sales side ofthings. The course was challenging but Markwas a great tutor and always respondedquickly if I came a cropper on any questions.I’d like to thank the tutors for their help, aswell as my colleagues who’ve been of greatsupport over the course.”

The Jeweller would also like to apologiseto last month’s winner, Lisa Hayball – whowas incorrectly reported as working in theGold & Silver Shop in Bath. In fact Lisa actually received the award while working inthe Gold & Platinum Studio in Bath. For more information on the JET courses,go to www.jewellers-online.org or call: 0207613 4445 (option 1). For information onBransom go to: www.bransom.co.uk

October Bransom Award Winner

The NAG’s Stacy Simpson at the Hatton Garden Festival

| NAG News: IRV Review


The newly-restored Hotel Russell inBloomsbury, London was the venue for

Gem-A’s 2011 Conference last month andonce again the IRV was delighted to be invited to attend to promote itself and itsmembers and fellows to a record number ofconference participants. This year saw 148delegates from Sweden, the USA, Germany,Switzerland, Israel, Greece, Canada, Spain,France, Italy, Hong Kong, Portugal, Australia,Finland and Denmark as well as the UK ofcourse – a truly international event.

The day started with Dr Jack Ogden,Gem-A’s CEO, welcoming delegates to theConference then handing over to JamesRiley, chairman of Gem-A, who introducedthe morning’s guest speakers.

First in the spotlight was Brian Jackson,research curator of mineralogy at theNational Museums of Scotland and chairmanof the Scottish Gemmological Association.His presentation – an absolute delight foran audience of gemmologists – was entitled

‘Optical Phenomena in Gemstones’ andlooked at stones that show a combination ofphenomena such as reflection, light trans-mission, diffraction, scattering, dispersion,absorption, pleochroism, polarisation, luminescence and refraction. These includedsome unusual effects such as the Usambaraeffect, contra luz opals, tenebrescence,colour shift and the Lowell effect, as well asmore familiar effects such as asterism.

Replacing Dr Adolf Peretti, who wasunable to attend as he is a victim of thefloods in Thailand (he sent delegates a short videoed apology from his dingy as he paddled along the street) was Willy Bieri, his colleague at GemResearch Swisslab in Lucerne. The presentation entitled‘Distinguishing natural Tibetan copper-bearing andesine from its diffusion-treatedcounterparts using advanced analyticalmethods’ included a short film showing DrPeretti’s visit to Tibet to research the claimsthat copper-bearing andesine is mined here.

Natural red copper andesines are highlyregarded as gemstones, very valuable andtraditionally found in Oregon, USA.

Claims that natural material was also available in Tibet, and in large quantities, leadto Dr Peretti’s field trip and after many testshe was able to confirm that natural materialis not available from this location and uponcareful inspection of the film, delegates couldactually see ‘guides’ dropping rough on theground for Dr Peretti to find! Tests revealedthat the rough found was in fact treatedfeldspar and had been ‘planted’ by theTibetan people. (His suspicions had beenroused when the guides pointed him to exactpositions rather than allowing him to searchwider afield for specimens.)

The final guest speaker for the morningwas Steve Bennett, managing director of

Gems TV. His talk demonstrated to delegateshow in recent years web and TV sales have been the fastest growing media forselling coloured gemstones, and have beeninstrumental in familiarising the public witha wide variety of gems. Bennett charted the growth of TV and web gem selling, withparticular focus on the involvement of hisown business and its history. He spoke ofthe growing problems of correct disclosureonline and environmental and ethical challenges facing the gem industry in relationto his own purchase and selling strategies.

Bennett’s passion for coloured gemstoneswas obvious. He said, “I got an addiction forgemstones in 2003 and then launchedGems TV in 2004: ever since I have beenfascinated by gemstones.” The first dedicatedjewellery channel in Europe, Gems TV hasprovided pieces to over 350,000 customers.

The first guest speaker of the afternoonwas Gary Roskin, a gemmologist, journalistand one of the world’s most highly regardedauthorities in the art and science of diamondgrading, having over 30 years’ experience as

NAG Institute of Registered Valuers R E V I E W

Gem mysteries uncoveredSandra Page was a guest at the recent Gem-A Conference – an event as fascinating for a ‘non-gemmologist’ as the gem-savvy delegates who attended

Delegates listening attentively. © Gem-A.

Alan Hart discussing the recutting of the Koh-i-Noor diamond. © Gem-A. Jack Ogden.


NAG News: IRV Review |

a professional diamond grader. His talk –‘The Blues Brothers, or Not: Comparing the Hope and Wittelsbach-Graff Diamonds’– reported on the unique opportunity he had to join a small but elite group of scientific experts to examine these twobeautiful blue diamonds. The aim was todetermine whether or not they came fromthe same crystal.

For the first time in more than 50 years thestones, the world’s largest fancy deep bluediamonds, with the Hope weighing 45.52ct and the Wittelsbach-Graff weighing31.06ct, were brought together at theSmithsonian Institute for an exhibition andthe opportunity could not be missed todetermine if, indeed, the diamonds wererelated. With the aid of a video Roskin showeddelegates the gemmological tests performedon the diamonds, showing previously unseenfootage taken of the analysis. He explainedthat he had felt extremely privileged to beinvited to this meeting to find the answer

to a question which had been raised onmany occasions over the years. As the testsprogressed it looked as if the diamondswere, indeed, ‘related’ – until the final test using the polariscope to observe thereaction under crossed polars revealed that they weren’t. The delegates were asdisappointed as the experts had been.

Synthetic diamonds came under scrutinywith an in-depth scientific presentation givenby Branko Deljanin, the head gemmologistand president of the Canadian GemologicalLaboratory in Vancouver. His focus was onthe screening of colour-enhanced diamonds,Suncrest HPHT processed diamonds as wellas synthetic diamonds. He also looked atthe testing of diamonds with standard and advanced instruments, as well as theircertification. The sources and identificationprocedures for colourless, pink, yellow, blue and green natural, enhanced and synthetic diamonds were also discussed.Deljanin also covered several methods ofdiamond typing, including UV lamp screening, polariscope testing and infraredusing the spectrometer.

A favourite gemstone among gemmologists– if the reaction of delegates is anything togo by – is the Pariba tourmaline, which wasthe subject of American geologist and gemmologist Brian Cook’s presentation. Hedetailed the history of the Cuprian Elbaite,or ‘Paraíba’ tourmaline as it is more commonly known, from 1988 to the presentday and looked at the geological and thegemmological perspectives, as well asdetailing the story of the stone. It transpiredthat many delegates were kicking themselvesfor not buying more samples back in the

late 1980s and 1990 when it was first available as it is no longer mined.

The last speaker of the day was Alan Hart,head of Mineral Collections at London’sNatural History Museum. His presentationlooked at ‘A modern evaluation of the origi-nal Koh-i-Noor diamond before re-cutting’.The ‘modern’ Koh-i-Noor diamond, heexplained, is the end product of an originalhistoric cut diamond which, when first displayed at the Great Exhibition of 1851,failed to impress the expectant crowds. Usinga near-perfect replica of the original ‘Mogul’stone, Hart assessed how the stone mayhave been cut originally, and how this unique gem might have fared in the presentday, asking whether the stone was a victim of its time due to its re-cut. Hisresearch has also revealed much about the show case used to display the diamondand he is still hopeful of finding the originalcage, complete with Chubb safe, whichhoused the stand and dome already in thepossession of the Museum. His aim is tounite the cage, stand and dome and replicastone to display at the Museum.

During the day delegates were invited tomatch four stones to their correct identity:they were all trillion-cut, black and of a similarsize but with different carat weights. DelegateFiona Hutchinson was the only competitionentrant to correctly identify them and won a bottle of champagne. In addition to theone-day Conference the Gem-A offered delegates a number of seminars and toursbefore and after the Conference, such asDeljanin’s seminar on basic gemmology anddiamond identification, and Jackson’s hands-on seminar on optical phenomena.

For those whose interest has been sparked,look out in 2012 for details of the nextGem-A Conference – an event open to all.

Fiona Hutchinson, winner of the Gem-A Education Competition. © Gem-A.

Dominic Mokof AGILdemonstratinghis jade colourwheel. © Gem-A.

Delegates dancing at the evening dinner.© Gem-A.

30TH JANUARY 2012


BJA News |

As another year draws to a close and thejewellery industry enters what is hopefully

going to be a busy time for us all, it is perhapsopportune to look back over the past 12months and take stock.

2011 has certainly kept us all on our toeswith the rocketing prices for raw materials andvolatile world events affecting businesses of allsizes. However, despite the very best attemptsof the media and events in the Euro Zone todrown us in doom, gloom and more doom,I’m pleased to be able to report that the BJAand its members would appear to be hangingon in there and carrying on regardless.

For the Association it has been an extremelypositive 12 months with membership numbersstanding at an all time high as more and morebusinesses can access and benefit from thewide and ever-expanding range of discountsand benefits the BJA provides. These are clearlystated on our recently revamped website –and with over 60 different possibilities, I defy

anyone in thetrade not to findsomething listedthat will savethem either timeor money.

For me the highlight of the year has beenwatching as ever stronger alliances developbetween the BJA and other industry bodies.We now have particularly strong links with theResponsible Jewellery Council – where ourCEO Simon Rainer has been closely involvedwith recent developments and through whichseveral of our member firms have nowreceived their ethical certification. 2011 hasalso seen a new closeness develop with the Company of Master Jewellers, where wenow facilitate a group of designer-crafts members to show at buying meetings. Wealso continue to work closely with all the major trade fair organisers including TheJewellery Show at Spring Fair International,

International Jewellery London and mostrecently Treasure and the Jewellery ShowLondon to provide a great deal for membersat these events. Finally I have been delightedto witness the BJA’s ongoing collaboration with the National Association of Goldsmiths.Together we have provided a strong and united voice for our industry and have alsohelped tackle the thorny issue of how to provide greater security for jewellers, theirstock, their premises and their staff.

Although no one would suggest that thingsare easy, jewellery is still being made and still being sold and jewellery firms offeringinnovative high-quality products and greatservice continue to prosper.

On this note I would like to take this opportunity to wish everyone a peaceful andprosperous 2012 and send you all best wishes for the holiday period.

Michael Hughes, Chairman

Several of the UK’s brightest jewellerydesigners were launched into the Chinese

jewellery market last week at a glitteringevent at Beijing’s smartest departmentstore, Shin Kong Place. The event, organisedby British Jewellery & Giftware International(BJGI) and designer Fei Liu, and supportedby UK Trade & Investment and the BJA via

its London Jewellery Export.com fund, waslaunched with a VIP reception on Tuesday8th November, starring famous Chineseactress Liu Shi Shi, and a catwalk show featuring jewellery from the UK designers.

The reception launched a four day in-storeshowcase, displaying products from UK jewellery designers and producers DoritJewellery, Leyla Abdollahi, Mahtab Hanna,Charles Green, Sarah Ho, Tomasz Donocik,and William Cheshire, and silverware fromChristopher Perry and the BirminghamAssay Office.

“It has been a pleasure to have beengiven this opportunity to work with UK Tradeand Investment and the British Jewelleryand Gift Federation to bring British designersto the Chinese market. It is a fantastic chancefor these young designers to experience thismarket and explore the potential is has forthem. At the same time, it is also a uniqueexperience for the Chinese consumer toview and buy the wonderful works of ourBritish Designers,” commented Fei Lui.

BJGI manager Mike Josypenko explained:“This event provides an ideal platform to showcase the work of some of the UK’s finest emerging talent, and a launch pad into one of the world’s fastest growing consumer markets. We are grateful for the tireless and inspirationalassistance of Birmingham designer Fei Liu,without whose help this event would havebeen impossible.”

Mike Hughes, chairman of the BJA

Taking stock...

UK jewellery stars shine in China!Fei Liu with actress Liu Shi Shi

| BJA News


The Jewellery Show London Taking place on the 12th and 13th June2012, The Jewellery Show London atSomerset House, will be the second editionto The Jewellery Show at Spring FairInternational. The event’s aim is to show-case the best international brands, suppliersand British jewellery designers within a cut-ting-edge and trend-driven environment.

The Embankment Galleries, famous fortemporary exhibitions focusing on latestfashion, design, art and architecture as well asbeing the home of London Fashion Week inrecent times, will provide the backdrop for theshow. This edited, high quality, transactionaltwo-day trade show hopes to attract retailbuyers from both the UK and abroad and willbe the perfect setting to buy and previewautumn/winter and Christmas 2012 collec-tions and to preview spring/summer 2013.

Exhibitors who are full members of theBJA or BATF by 15th February 2012 willreceive an approximate five per cent discounton their Jewellery Show London package.

To apply contact show director Julie Driscollon tel: 020 7728 3953 or email her at:[email protected]

Treasure This consumer facing show will provide aplatform for pioneering exhibitors from thevery best in contemporary jewellery design.Open to the public from Thursday 14th toSunday 17th June, visitors will be able to discover, buy and commission from anexclusive selection of the most innovativework available in jewellery today.

A panel comprising jewellery experts, onlineretailer Elizabeth Galton, contempory jewellerygallery owner Natalie Kabiri and ChristianCheeseman director of CRED Jewellery (thepioneering fair trade and ethical jewellery)will make the selection on the basis of thequality, originality and relevance of the productto the jewellery-loving audience at Treasure.

All exhibitors who are BJA members by15th February 2012 will receive a 10 percent discount on their Treasure package.

Fully inclusive stand package include highquality cabinet with integral lighting, marketingsupport including a profile page on Treasurewebsite and a listing in the event directory aswell as inclusion of new product images inthe show’s marketing material.

Additionally as part of the packageexhibitors will receive a ‘Designer’ listing andimage on the London Jewellery Week websitewith reciprocal web link and use of LondonJewellery Week logo.

New for 2012 will be the ‘Bridal Boutique’with an emphasis on this specialist, lucrativemarket. Essence, the ‘Ethical JewelleryPavilion’ at Treasure, will host the new collections from Fairtrade Fairmined Goldlicensees, alongside ethical and sustainablejewelers who successfully marry ethics andaesthetics. The 2012 event will showcase an expanded collection of the best designersin the emerging ethical jewellery movementas part of an international show.

Application deadline: 20th January 2012. For details call: 020 7241 7475, email:[email protected] or visit the website:www.treasureuk.com

New BJA discountsfor Jewellery WeekSomerset House will be the hub for Jewellery Week 2012 for both trade and consumers

with The Jewellery Show London and Treasure running consecutively in the EmbankmentGalleries. The BJA is pleased to announce that members will receive discounts on bothevents across the Design Quarter, Waterside Studio, Waterside Boutique and Upper LevelBoutique Packages.

The BJA will be 125 years old next year!Historically, in celebration of milestone

dates for our Association, we have commis-sioned a piece of silverware. “Looking backon the collection I have seen a few desk setsdating from the around the time of ourinception, and then again in the fifties; itwould be interesting to have a modern takeon an office accessory for this millennia,”commented marketing manager LindseyStraughton. “We would proudly display anduse it in the CEO’s office either on the desk

or the meeting table – I’m sure it will makean excellent talking point”

The competition is open to any UK company and the piece must be designed,made in silver and hallmarked in the UK.

“The work that the BJA does to support theBritish jewellery industry is truly outstandingand 125 years is certainly a key milestone. I amsure that the silverware competition willattract some inspiring designs and I can’twait to view them,” says Julie Driscoll, eventdirector of The Jewellery Show

Judging will be allinclusive with shortlisteddesigns being shownon the BJA stand atThe Jewellery Show at the NEC, 5th-9thFebruary 2012 and onthe Association website. The item or itemswill be presented to the BJA Chairman atJune’s AGM. Visit www.bja.org.uk/125awardor www.thejewelleryshow.com/bja125awardto download an entry form.

BJA Award 2012 at the Jewellery Show for commemorative silverware

Jewellerthe

picks...It may be a little too late to stock up on Christmas gift jewellery,but we think this selection of bright and beautiful baubles havethe requisite festive feel for this issue. And there's alwaysValentine’s Day to think about…

STEPHEN WEBSTER‘It Started with Eve’ is the name of a new line of couture cocktail rings which pay homage tosome of history’s glamorous yet deadly femmes fatales. The very decadent pieces are setwith gemstones such as tanzantite, peridot, red garnet, rubies and diamonds, with pricesstarting at £10,000. www.stephenwebster.com

�

CARATJust launched is ‘Horlogerie’ – the new collection of watches for women by luxuryfashion jewellery company Carat. FeaturingJapanese movements the timepieces feature pave synthetic gemstones on thebezel and straps that are available in a rangeof textures, such as water snake and patentlizard and colours (pink, red, white, blackand silver). Prices start at £140 retail.www.carat.co

NOOKANew York fashion design company Nookahas just launched in the UK, bringing with ita collection of very different, futuristic,patented timepieces. There are seven distinct displays available in over 85 modelsand in an array of colours and materials. TheZub 40 (£99) shown here is read in thesame way as a traditional digital watch, butwith a twist – a large window shows the hour,but a horizontal bar displays the minutesand a small window gives the seconds. Tide Distribution: Tel: 0844 812 6061

MARCO BICEGOBlack and white diamonds married with rose,yellow or white gold – the new additions toMarco Bicego’s ‘Goa’ collection have aclean, contemporary look, with flattenedcoils criss-crossing to create rings, necklacesand [email protected]

�

�

�

TROLLBEADSLove as well as the traditions of Christmas are celebrated in this latest line-up of hand-crafted beads by Danish Trollbeads. New for the season are two limited edition glass beadkits (rich red and dark blue); two gold and silver beads; a tiger’s eye and a glass with cz bead;a new lock and black diamond and white diamond – two additions to the Universal Uniquescollection. Looking for love? How about the Gold Mistletoe or Bouquet of Hearts beads?www.trollbeads.co.uk

LESTIE LEEEx-St Martins jewellery graduate, with a GIAgemmology course under her belt, Lestie Leehas launched her first jewellery collection,inspired by diamond cutting, as well as various global cultures and art. The jewellery,cast and hand-made in London and in various metals with and without stones,includes charm rings, earrings, bracelets,necklaces and this cuff, with prices from£140 to £3,500. www.lestielee.com

DEAKIN & FRANCISIf you’re looking for quirky gift ideas – forValentine’s day or any other time of the year– there’s sure to be something in Deakin &Francis’ cufflink collection. Take these green wellie links for instance, in three-dimensional, sterling silver with enamel finish. Fruit, flowers, teddies and hearts witha twist also feature in the range.www.cufflinks1786.co.uk

SHO FINE JEWELLERYThe fashion world is embracing colour and totally ‘on-trend’ is Sarah Ho with herSHO collection of fine jewellery. Marryingpreciousness with fun is this ‘Coin’ boulering featuring circles of stones – blue andyellow sapphires and tsavorites in yellowgold – set at different levels.www.shojewellery.com

HANNAH WALKERNature, death and decay may not sound likeperfect pressie themes, but in the hands ofjewellery designer Hannah Warner the off-beat inspiration that has resulted in skullrings and necklaces has a definite edgycharm. This necklace in 18ct gold vermeil,studded with five emeralds and a singlediamond was cast from a piece of coral.www.hannahwarner.com

�

�

�

�

�

KIKI MCDONOUGHThe fine jewellery designer has ‘curated’ a Valentine’s Day gift selection of her most popularpieces, which includes these almost-edible citrine cushion and bow earrings featuring diamonds on the bows. Other very feminine pieces in the collection are the heart-shapedstones in rings and necklaces. www.kikimcdonough.com

MEISSENTo celebrate the Chinese Year of theDragon, porcelain company turned jewellerymanufacturer Meissen has launched a collection of jewellery inspired by the myth-ical monster. Motifs, symbols and colourshave been drawn from the company’s 300year old archive for the rings and necklaces.This ‘Ring Mystery’ in 750 rose gold featuresorange quartz and 40 champagne diamonds.White gold, white diamonds, amethyst androck crystal also appear in the collection.www.meissen.com

CROW’S NESTCreated by Russian designer Daniel-PhillipBelevitch, Crow’s Nest Jewels is made inAustria (by the same factory that produce’sBulgari jewellery) and uses 18ct gold setwith gemstones including black and whitediamonds, garnet, blue topaz and tsavorite.Statement cocktail rings for her; black rhodium with spinel beads for his bracelet.www.crowsnestjewels.co.uk

TENDENCEIf you’re looking for a striking new watchbrand in the medium price bracket, thenhow about the just launched Tendence?With large polycarbonate cases – 43mm –and silicon straps, the Italian timepieceshave quartz movements, a chronographfunction and scratch-resistant PVD-platednon-reflective glass. Prices range fromaround £280-£795www.tendencewatches.co.uk

MARTICKThe natural world is the inspiration behindthe new ‘Shipwreck’ collection of silver jewellery by Martick. It includes pendants,earrings and necklaces which have beenmade by Mozambique craftsmen using traditional methods, with ‘weathered andwashed-out’ beads providing the accents.www.martickjewellery.com

ZARA TAYLORLondon-based jeweller Zara Taylor uses vintage jewellery, findings and stones tocreate her own brand of stylish jewellerythat is now finding favour with celebritiessuch as Kelly Rowland and Fearne Cotton.Made from a range of materials, frombronze and brass to silver and gemstones,the collection includes globe and tasselpendants and peace and love earrings.Initially available on-line the line is now beingwholesaled through Stroom Fashion.Tel: 020 8427 8115

�

�

�

�

�

�


| BJA Feature


This summer the British Jewellers’ Associationin conjunction with Holts Academy

organised an on-line survey specifically fordesigner makers and for jewellers working toprovide a service to the designer community.Their aim was to discover the needs of thisvery specific group with a view to developingnew services to meet those needs for thegeneral benefit of the trade.

The survey was widely distributed notonly by the BJA and Holts Academy but alsothrough the Worshipful Company ofGoldsmiths, Benchpeg and the major tradefair organisers with a view to reaching thewidest possible audience.

An impressive 50 per cent of the mailedrecipients responded to the call and out ofthe hundreds who replied 75 per cent weredesigner jewellers; others were mounters,setters, silversmiths, repairers and designers.On behalf of the BJA I would like to thankthem all for their time and their input.

The greatest proportion of replies (59 percent) came from London and the SouthEast with just 32 per cent from Birminghamand the Midlands and the remainder spread throughout the UK. The vast majorityof respondents (71 per cent) were soletraders with only 12 per cent being limited companies, 80 per cent describedthemselves as creating ‘designer jewellery’,with 41 per cent describing their productsas ‘fine jewellery’ and 23 per cent trading in ‘fashion jewellery’.

It was very rare for any of the businesseswho responded to employ more than twomembers of staff even though most ofthem had been in business for some time,with 20 per cent trading for 10-20 years.

When it came to selling their products, ‘wordof mouth’ was important to 70 per cent oftraders, while 62 per cent of those whoresponded sold through trade shows andexhibitions and 60 per cent through galleries.

The internet was also a significant saleschannel with 49 per cent of participantsselling online. Just 40 per cent of productswere sold to retailers but ‘sale or return’ iscommon practice with over 44 per cent ofthe group selling their products in this way.This is a finding of particular concern as saleor return is the least friendly practice for acompany’s cash flow as the capital investedyields a slow return.

Predictably perhaps the UK was far andaway the most important market with lessthan 40 per cent of respondents involved inselling overseas. That said, Europe, America,Asia and other international markets were all cited as export destinations forrespondents products.

While a third of respondents chose to skipthe questions with regard to annual turnoverthe answers from those who respondedwere revealing, with almost 35 per cent stating a turnover figure of less than £5,000 per annum and just 12 per centmaking over £100,000. The remainder fellsomewhere in between with 35 per centreporting a turnover of between £5,000and £40,000 a year.

There is no getting away from the fact thatthese figures – based as they are simply onturnover rather than earnings, or profit – areworryingly low and would barely provide aliving wage, especially for those based in theSouth East. The low levels of turnover aredoubly concerning as the survey reveals thatmost of the respondents are not newcomersto the industry and the figures would therefore suggest that many designer makerswill work for a number of years for poorremuneration. However, for some respon-dents (although the survey does not revealthis) jewellery making may be a part-timejob so no firm conclusions can be drawn.

The BJA has long suspected that inadequate business and production skills

Simon says!BJA CEO Simon Rainer reports on some illuminating informationrevealed by the Association’s recent survey of designer makersand on the pressing need it has highlighted for more industry-specific business training.


BJA Feature |

may, in part at least, be responsible for lowsales figures within the designer makercommunity and a further key element ofthe survey was to try and gauge to whatextent this is indeed the case and to identifyways in which a paucity of knowledge couldbe identified and addressed.

To this end, the survey asked participantsto rate their proficiency levels as ‘Beginner’‘Intermediate’ or ‘Professional’ across a rangeof skill options with a view to ascertainingwhere training might be required and atwhat level.

A resounding 80 per cent of participantsconfirmed that they would like further trainingin design, metal, business and IT skills, while62 per cent believe they could do with furthermanufacturing skills. Stone setting (50 percent), ethical and environmental matters (45per cent) and CAD and rapid prototyping(30 per cent) were other areas where significant training needs were identified.

The eight most pressing areas for actionhave now been identified as: traditional

design skills, metal skills, marketing, PR andbranding, sales and retail, book-keeping,manufacture and IT skills.

Addressing the skill shortageI am delighted to be able to report that, having digested and analysed all the information provided by the survey, the BJAand Holts Academy have now identifiedsome 30 courses for which they believe thereis a proven need. These courses which willbe certificated by the BJA will cover every-thing from photo-editing and spreadsheetsthrough to word processing and cash flow.

During the coming months Holts will produce detailed information about andguidelines as to the required content andteaching for these courses and the BJA willexplore ways in which they can be deliveredby appropriately qualified trainers to designermakers at different venues throughout the country. All participants will receive acertificate to show they have taken thecourse and it is hoped that these will, intime, become a worthwhile component intheir CV and will enhance their employabilitywith the industry.

Hands-on manufacturing skills courseswill clearly need to be delivered at HoltsAcademy or perhaps during summer schoolsat some of the country’s many universitieswith jewellery-making facilities, while thebusiness skills courses can be held at our own offices in Birmingham and otherappropriate venues countrywide. Although itis still early days we would welcomeapproaches from both individuals and institutions who would be interested indelivering these courses in their own area.

It is our profound wish that BJA trainingcourses will become an essential steppingstone for jewellery makers who have finisheda practical degree course and wish to set upin business with a full range of relevantskills. There is likely to be a small chargeinvolved but this will be kept at a minimum

and will be further subsidised for designermembers of the Association.

It is still in its infancy but we are extremelyoptimistic about this scheme. Much workremains to be done but we are confidentthat by the Spring of 2012 that we will havea full programme in place and soon thereafterbegin to see a positive effect on the viabilityand profitability of the designer maker businesses in the jewellery industry.

To register interest please send an email to:[email protected]

The low levels of turnover are doubly concerning as the surveyreveals that most of the respondents are not newcomers tothe industry and the figures would therefore suggest thatmany designer makers will work for a number of years forpoor remuneration.


Given that we are trading in what mighteuphemistically be described as

”challenging times”, it would be understand-able if new shop fits, refurbishments, facelifts and the like, were rather low down onyour average retailer’s ‘to-do’ list. But clearlythere’s nothing average about jewellers –when the going gets tough, the tough, itseems, reach for a ten litre tin of emulsion.

It certainly isn’t that the jewellery industry is immune to the effects of gloomyeconomic forecasts – there must be manyout there who have postponed any form of investment in the face of continuing bad financial news. But while the high streetin general is counting the cost, from our

industry perspective it’s not all doom andgloom. “I know retailers that are doing verywell, even expanding and investing in majorrefits and big marketing campaigns,” saysJudy Head of Head Creative Associates.“They are demonstrating confidence andthat has paid off for them.”

In fact, it could certainly be argued thatduring these difficult times, resting on one’slaurels is not necessarily the best option.“The market has changed and the retailer hasto accommodate those changes,” continuesHead. “Letting the store fall into disrepair ishardly likely to inspire confidence! This is anopportunity to clear out old stock that has notsold – it’s probably worth more as scrap now!

An economic downturn is no excuse to let standards drop – a retail face-lift or some window display tweaks might just bewhat’s needed to pull in the punters who do want to spend,says Belinda Morris.

Mococo byHallmark

Identity Jewellers by Hallmark


Feature |

Clear out the windows, throw out old displaymaterial and put in a new lighting system toshow the stock to its best advantage.”

David Griffin of Hallmark design agreesthat now is not the time to sit back and wait for the economy to improve beforeaddressing a store’s appearance. “Clients haverealised that, like pubs and restaurants, you can only go for so long without havinga face lift before business begins to suffer,”he says. “Competition on the high street isfierce and this competition is driving jewellersto improve their look and the presentation of

their stock. It’s not just to maintain business,but to increase their slice of the cake,” he explains.

Chris Evans, owner of Christopher EvansGoldsmiths in Poynton, Cheshire also maintains that now is a good a time as anyto consider a re-vamp. “Absolutely – youshould grab every opportunity,” he says. “If things slacken off make the most of thetime you’ve been given – provided there’smoney in the pot! It’s important to keepfresh and therefore ahead of the game.”

Norwich jeweller Winsor Bishop recentlyunveiled its newly extended store in LondonStreet – achieved by obtaining the premisesnext door. “We took this project on, on thecusp of recession so it was a huge risk. Butwe had to do it to progress our businessand keep ahead of the game,” says managingdirector Sophie Fulford. “We had a very clearstrategy, very clear budget and most of allwe had confidence in our business.”

To confirm his own opinion that an economic downturn is no excuse to twiddle

your thumbs, Griffin carried out a surveyamong the companies Hallmark refitted last year. “All reported an improved positionon the previous 12 months, some quite significantly, which was in stark contrast tothose who deferred the decision to thisyear,” he says. Hallmark itself has justenjoyed one of the busiest years for a longtime Griffin adds. Another survey, this timecarried out by the Shop and DisplayEquipment Association, reveals that almosthalf of its members have seen an increasein business over the past year and the same number expecting increased sales inthe year ahead.

It doesn’t necessarily require a completeoverhaul to create a sparkling new look.Mara Goes of The Jewellery Display Companyis finding that overall sales of their productshave increased recently as jewellers look fordisplay items that will create different looks,helping them to strand out. “They’re alsoasking for different seasonal displays andthemes and upgrading more often,” shesays. “Smaller tweaks like changing a basecolour in the window, using different fabricstopped off with new display sets andupgrading the imagery combined with newfree dress, can give you a £50,000 effect forunder £10,000.”

Let there be lightWhether it’s used as an instant and effectiveway of upgrading an existing shop fit, or incorporated into a completely new refurbishment, there’s no doubt that qualitylighting is way up on a jewellers’ wish-list.“In our experience when working with

jewellery retailers and store design-ers, lighting is high up on thedesign agenda,” confirms SimoneBreedon of Display Lighting, which was founded by lightingdesigner Paul Breedon. “Theirmain considerations are how it willcomplement and enhance thedesign of the cabinets and displaysand how the desired effect will be

created. It has to coordinatewith branding and initial

store concepts.”Having recently

completed ‘phaseone’ of a moderni-sation programme

– ‘Upstairs at EWPayne’ was revealed recently – the nitty gritty of the project is still

“Clear out the windows, throwout old display material andput in a new lighting systemto show the stock to its best advantage.”

Case history no.1 – Christopher Evans, Poynton, Cheshire“I wanted a completely different, fresh newlook for both of our stores and havingworked with a design company for ourStockton Heath branch two years ago, I feltI could project-manage the second onemyself. The shops are in villages, so a ‘slick’city centre look would not have been right– we wanted warm and friendly, not thecold, stark feel that some jewellers aregoing for.

“However, the effect we’ve achieved isdefinitely contemporary; a boutique lookand very new for us with lots of strong purples and greens – it’s great! For theshopfit we used local tradespeople andcraftsmen which has had knock-on benefits– it’s generated lots of good will in thecommunity and we’ve made new friends!

“I particularly wanted to install LED lighting as first and foremost it’s more cost-effectiveto run and emits less heat than our previous lighting – so much more comfortable for staffand customers. Also, Lumenal’s unit is neat and compact and the quality of the light reallybrings our diamonds to life.” Chris Evans, owner.

Display LED with spot, by Display Lighting

�

Lumenal atChristopher Evans

| Feature


fresh in the mind of Alistair Collier, managingdirector and great-grandson of the Bromleyjewellers. “Lighting is the area on which we consciously spent more time – andbudget,” he explains. “We already ownedsome incredibly beautiful antique displaycabinets and we were determined to keepthem. We have gone with LED lighting todisplay our jewellery in the best way. Wehave also purchased a bespoke chandelierby Baccarat to enhance the luxury feel – itreally is beautiful.”

Regardless of whether the eventual desiredlook of a shop is traditional or contemporary,Rococo or minimal, there’s no doubt thatthe way it, and its stock, is lit has been thekey area of change as far as store design isconcerned. “Retailers have realised thepotential benefits of switching to new

LED technology from more traditional low voltage light sources,” says Breedon,whose new website offers advice on allaspects of lighting displays and allowsdesigners to build their own specificationcodes on line.

A key advantage of LED is that it runscooler, for longer, uses less energy and has much more flexibility in terms of designand effect within displays than the low voltage options. For his shop’s re-fit ChrisEvans chose Lumenal’s LED ‘lighting solutions’ to enhance the shelf appeal of his jewellery. Thanks to their flexibility, thecolour of the light emitted by the company’s

Making your windows workThe NAG’s Dynamic Display Workshop – provided by Judy HeadVisual merchandising is both an art and a science. It needs a creative mind to design a powerful and exciting display, but without the science – that is the knowledge of what makes someone stop, look and eventually walk through the door of a shop to makea purchase – it will not be effective.

This new course is for management and senior sales staff, and it is a challenge: to designand build a new window display that will target customers with a particular promotion –seasonal/Easter/Christmas for instance. The workshop will focus not only on display butincorporate a strong marketing element that will require the delegates to link their displayto a plan of promotional activity to raise the profile of the store.

The day will start with a short introduction to the course, a reminder of the basic rules of display and some ideas on how delegates could create an effective promotionalplan for their store. They will be divided into two groups, each with a brief of the tasks theyhave to accomplish and the market they are targeting. Each group will measure up thespace and draw up their ideas for display, together with the promotional activity that theypropose will take place. They will then choose suitable stock and build the display. At theend of the day, we will look at the displays and assess whether they have fulfilled the brief. The criteria: • The students must have completed the Essential Display Course.• No more than eight students can attend the day – even numbers preferably.• A questionnaire will be sent out before the course takes place and students will

be asked to complete and return it before the training day.• Students who want to bring their own display material and props to use are asked

to inform us in advance.

“Smaller tweaks like changinga base colour in the window,using different fabrics toppedoff with new display setsand upgrading the imagery…can give a £50,000 effect for under £10,000.”

�

Display Lighting

The Jewellery Display Company

Azendi display by Display Lighting


145 Tottenham Court Road, London W1T 7NEbrowse: www.dzd.co.uk email: [email protected]

call: 020 7388 7488

Unlock the potential of your displays

Swiss designed and manufacturedshowcases to hire and buy. Give us a call and let us quote for your project.

0 2 0 8 7 8 6 8 3 4 4www.visionarydisplays.com

| Feature


Sirius Strip lights added greater sparkle tocertain metals and gemstones within thewall-recessed and counter unit displaycases. Warm white light was incorporated to make yellow gold pieces appear evenmore lustrous, while neutral white light optimised the appearance of platinum, silver and diamonds.

“The superior diodes used in our productswill guarantee the consistency of the specially designed light colours, as well as brightness, throughout the lifetime of the fittings, which is expected to be inexcess of 50,000 hours constant use,” says

Nick Wraith, Lumenal’s managing director.“That’s roughly equivalent to ten years,assuming 85 hours trading a week – it’s aresult of the design of the fittings combined with their inherent resistance to shocks and vibrations.”

The likes of Beaverbrooks, Azendi andDavid Morris are among the jeweller clientsof Display Lighting, which has recently introduced the new DisplayLED range. “Thisincorporates the latest SMD LED technologyinto a sleek and extremely slim-line circularaluminium profile for uniform illuminationof displays,” explains Breedon. The productcan be integrated as a free-standing, verticalor horizontally-mounted unit or as an integral part of the display itself using aneasily adjustable (and therefore flexible)shelving support system. Retailers can selectthe colour temperature to enhance theitems on display and there is the additionalbenefit of a spot which can be includedalong the profile.

Giddings Design has chosen LED lighting– colour-matched for diamonds – for itsrecently launched new showcases whichfeature low-ion glass which is of anti-banditspecification. The addition of new ultrasmooth Swiss locks means that security isstrongly addressed – without compromisingthe elegant design. The exterior panels, topsand interiors are built in such a way that theycan be adjusted and therefore unique toeach client. The contemporary clean lines ofthe high quality brushed stainless steelenhances the luxurious effect of the caseswhich are available to hire as well as buy.

Going with the trendsWhile starkly minimal might be one way togo, particularly for urban and/or designerstores, clearly the choice of interior design is a question of taste and in some cases dictated by the building itself. “It would appearthat, much like the current fashion ethos,there is not a single defining look or stylewhich retailers are leaning towards but rathera well put–together mix of classic designs,placed alongside carefully matched modernpieces,” is the opinion of Chris Sheriff, headof development at Leeds-based MSK DisplayWorks, which both designs and manufacturesretail display solutions. “Quality materials,precision finish, attention to detail and valuefor money seem to be the key elements fortoday’s jewellery retailer.”

For some though the style direction ispretty clear cut: “The trend is definitelytowards the modern, seen through the coloursand clean lines,” says Hallmark’s Griffin.Thinking along the same theme is ShaunBell, owner of Joshua James Jewellery inHessle which was launched in May 2009and will be undergoing an expansion nextyear. ”We want to incorporate the sameclean, sharp, stylish and mimimalist themesinto the new space,” he says.

If not an overall theme, then it might bethat new direction lies in the detail. ”For metwo things stand out,” says Head. “There’sthe use of large, eye catching images in the primary windows with curious three-dimensional illusions created in part by

Visual merchandising tipsfrom Judy Head• Be flexible. Change windows often and

be prepared to move stock around toplace the emphasis on pieces that are appropriate to the moment

• Consider LED lighting and combine it with spot lights to create differentmoods in the window. Make brightlights very bright – even though thesurrounding area may be dark

• Regarding security – perhaps re-thinkstore layout; open it up so that moreemphasis is placed on encouragingbrowsers to walk around displaysinside rather than cramming everything in the window

• Discreet seating areas – preferablytowards the back of the store – createan exclusive service feel and mightdesign out some opportunities for crime

Case history no. 2 – E.W. Payne, Bromley“Ultimately we were looking for the ‘wow factor’when we decided to refurbish our first floor andto help us understand how we could achieve thiswe visited a number of leading jewellers who hadrecently renovated their stores. We discussed boththe good and bad experiences! We were alsolooking for a welcoming ‘lounge’ feel, allowing ourclients to relax in a private and luxurious setting –along with a glass of champagne.

“We worked with a leading project manager anddesign and build company in our area, as we knewthey would be sympathetic to our 1930s building.Our brief to them was to mix the old and the new, without losing the character of the building– we’ve achieved that totally.” Alistair Collier, managing director

Display case byGiddings Design


Feature |

large format photographs and in part by theuse of props; it creates a magical, Alice inWonderland appearance. And fantasy themesare still popular – even futuristic but withoutthe metallic glitter – the colours are mutedand natural this year. I have also spotted a couple of backlit transparent images –something I have not seen for a long timeand it looked new and fresh with stock display against the light – very dramatic!

“We are now seeing the increasing use oflarge lightweight touch screens that enablecustomers to learn more about the productson show and even buy something,” she adds.“It has taken a very long time for screens to become thin and light enough (andattractive enough) to become a feature inthe shop window display but where thistechnology will really take off is for on-lineshopping, where large touch screens andvirtual mirror technology allow the customerto get an idea of what the product looks likewhen they wear it.”

Brand awarenessA number of recent store refurbishmentsand expansions have come about as retailers have taken on board the plethora of

branded jewellery (and watches of course).This adds a further dimension to a newdesign that might not have been an issue indays gone by. Based on many more enquiries

this year, MSK Display Works has noted thediversity of the projects which they arebeing asked to look at. In many instances,their customers are asking for a brand display solution which will complementtheir existing product ranges, prompted, for example, by the likes of Links of London,Thomas Sabo and Pandora.

“Branding continues to play a significantrole in clients’ turnover, and we strive toincorporate branded goods into a scheme,without them dominating the appearancewe are trying to achieve,” explains Griffin.“The life of a shop fit will be up to ten years and the mix of merchandise willchange many times during that period. It isessential that we try to make the furniture as flexible as we can, making a frameworkthat can be changed in the future, withoutdestroying the concept.”

“Beautifully–crafted claw and ball tables,which incorporate a secure glass displayarea and pin sharp LED lighting have, forexample, become a popular choice in brandenvironments,” says Sheriff. “It’s not a problem for us to manufacture pretty muchany size variation of this modern take on aclassic. What’s more, if a customer wantsthat table in bright blue, for example, ourin–house paint finishing facility can providejust that. In fact we’ve been asked for some ‘very interesting’ colour combinations!

Case history no. 3 – Stephen Charles Quance, Solihull“For our new flagship store we wanted somethingdifferent – smart, eye-catching, colourful. Much ofthe design is taken from our own home décor, soreally the store is designed from our own tastes.Once we’d worked out the colour scheme andthe wall covering in meetings with the designcompany, everything else seemed to fall into place.

“To draw the attention of shoppers and makethem step inside, the shop has a sparkling back wall,with a glittering dark floor to match. Picture framesare the running theme throughout the shop andthe boxes in the window have options to changethe surrounding colour. There is a comfortableseating area which is for personal shopping.

“The lighting has been the most difficult toachieve and we are still in the process of gettingit right. It looks stunning but we feel we can makesome tweaks to it in situ. All in all it’s completelydifferent from our original Jewellery Quarter shopwhich we had for 13 years.”Steven and Michelle Quance, owners

“There is not a single defining look or style which retailers areleaning towards but, rather, a well put–together mix of classicdesigns, placed alongside carefully matched modern pieces…”

�

Display case by Giddings Design

This really is the time for expressing individuality on the high street.”

The fact is that one of a jeweller’s key brands is the store itself. “As well asmore daring, jewellers are becoming morebrand conscious – we are inundated withbespoke requests and are finding thateveryone is trying to be more innovativeand wants to shout their names out more,”says Goes. An important ingredient in the MSK Display Works mix, says Sheriff isits brand design facility. “We have a team of experienced designers who have worked on large accounts in the industryand who know how vital brand positioningis to the perception of the consumer,” heexplains. “This affords smaller retailers the same opportunities as their larger counterparts to differentiate themselvesthrough a joined–up approach to brand and customer experience. Many mightrecognise this as being one such element,which we so often find under–utilised inmany privately–owned businesses on ourhigh streets today.”

It certainly didn’t go unattended to byWinsor Bishop when the time came for themto create their new look store. “We weregoverned mostly by the designs from thebrands that we hold and so the main pointfor us to address was that we maintainedour own sense of brand over and above themixture of others,” says Fulford. “It’s vital tohold your own identity.” �

| Feature


Case history no. 4 – Winsor Bishop, Norwich“We had big pressure regarding planningregulations because the two buildingswe were joining together to make onepremises are listed, and the condition ofthe newly acquired building was terrible.We had a very clear agenda but of courseonce the building teams started work,they came across so many hurdles andalso a few surprises!

“Making the store secure was also an issue because as soon as we had created the twoopenings to connect the buildings, it was an immediate security threat. We made sure weput thorough security measures in place.

“Lighting is everything in retail so we put in state of the art lighting in the new building,which looks wonderful. At the same time it immediately highlighted the age of the lightingin our original store, so we have merged the two by putting a combination across the twopremises. It’s great.” Sophie Fulford, managing director

Shop interior by MSK

Shop interior by MSK

Noble Gift Packaging, one of the world’s leading innovatorsin custom designed gift packaging, has been a trusted namefor high quality standards for over 35 years.

Our exciting and new collection of Zero-Tree™, Eco-Friendlybags and gift packaging is made from stone, bamboo,recycled bottles and environmentally friendly materialswhich highlight our commitment to the environment andto your customers.

Call us today for a quote!

Noble Gift Packaging Ltd73 Lockfield Avenue • Enfield • EN3 7PY

Tel: (+44) 020 8805 4111 • Email: [email protected]

| Financial Jeweller


Research that has been compiled from arecent survey of 5,000 consumers has

revealed that point of sale (PoS) innovationsare encouraging more shoppers to considerthe different credit options available. What isclear is that by offering finance options tocustomers, jewellery retailers can increasecustomer footfall into their stores and alsodrive on-line sales.

Tis the seasonDecember is obviously a key trading time forjewellers – as well as gifts it’s also a populartime of year for engagements. This willinvariably involve the purchase of an expensive item of jewellery and providingcustomers with different payment options,such as interest-free credit, allowing them tospread the cost, is imperative.

The survey revealed that the key reasonsfor consumers taking out in-store or on-linePoS finance services, such as interest-freecredit, to buy jewellery were: affordabilitywhen compared to other credit options(31%), a way to spread payments (61%)and the ease of applying for it (35%). It alsoemerged that 70 per cent would use pointof sale finance again, especially if interest-free periods and instant credit decisionswere available.

These statistics could help jewellery retailersto better understand how to capitalise oncredit-driven sales. A spokesperson fromBeaverbrooks, the UK jewellers with 65stores nationwide, commented on the use of PoS finance in the industry: “Interestfree finance is a wonderful tool for us as it enables customers to buy a more prestigious jewellery product than theymight ordinarily be able to afford. Providing

examples of how customers can pay withPoS finance is also beneficial as many shoppers do not realise how little themonthly payments can be.

“The online finance options that havebecome available recently could reallyincrease credit driven sales as they speedup the application and approvals processand take away the possibility for humaninaccuracies. These, and the wide variety ofcredit options available, can only be a goodthing for both retailers and consumers.”

The jewellery finance applications paidout by Hitachi Capital for the Christmas period have risen year on year for the last twoyears, from over £6million in 2009 to over£7.5million in 2010. As some consumershold off on purchasing decisions until thewinter period, these figures are expected torise again this year despite the squeeze onconsumer spending.

Online opportunitiesWith the e-commerce market worth a predicted £70 billion in 2011 and manyconsumers now choosing to shop online forjewellery, it is also important for retailers toconsider their online finance options.

Innovations such as e-signature technologyhave revolutionised the sale of goods andservices on-line. This enables shoppers to signtheir finance agreement on-line, as opposedto printing off the agreement, signing it andposting the document back; making thewhole process a viable option to paying by credit or debit card. It saves time andcuts costs, improving retailer cash flow aswell as the customer experience.

The rise in consumers taking out on-linePoS finance to buy jewellery is testament to

the importance of on-line finance availability;the survey shows a year on year rise inonline finance applications over the past twoyears and this is predicted to increase thisyear by up to 50 per cent.

Sales recovery in 2012?Figures published by the Finance & LeasingAssociation (FLA) show a slight increase inconsumer credit lending in 2011, but theFLA cautions that this does not signify arecovery across the credit markets.

There is still potential for growth withinthe credit industry, as only half of those surveyed (50%) had taken out in-store oron-line point of sale finance, such as interestfree credit, to buy goods or services.

In today’s unprecedented trading climatethe research provides interesting reading as there are a number of positive viewsfrom consumers on the use of credit and itsinfluence on retail sales.

The importance of promoting credit facilitiesand adopting a multi-channelled approachis also highlighted in the results, as a large percentage of customers (77%) wouldlike to be informed of their payment optionsbefore they complete the transaction. Sopromoting credit facilities in-store and on-linewould be a wise move if retailers are to capitalise on credit driven sales.

While it is recognised that PoS financeisn’t the only tool to drive sales, we shoulddevelop innovative point of sale financeoptions that are attractive to credit worthyconsumers looking to find affordable waysto shop for their jewellery.

As a result, consumers will benefit fromsome great deals and, reassuringly, areentering into the agreements wisely.

Capitalising on the festive PoS pushAs jewellers look forward to bumper festive sales, GeraldGrimes, chair of the Consumer Finance Committee for theFinance and Leasing Association and managing director of Hitachi Capital Consumer Finance, looks at public perceptions of point of sale finance.

THE NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF GOLDSMITHS is the largest and most active trade

association in the Jewellery industry.

Representing retailers within this sector for well over 100 years, we work together with

our members to promote the highest level of ethical, professional practice in the UK Jewellery

sector through ‘Education’, ‘Representation’ and ‘Communication’.

Today the potential and pitfalls of the jewellery industry are as complex as they are

challenging and as the industry’s major trade association, the NAG is committed to

providing our members with the necessary tools and information to ensure their

businesses are best equipped to take advantage of the challenges ahead.

Indeed we are, and have been, at the forefront of many industry matters – either

contesting, debating or discussing the key issues that effect our members and the

industry as a whole; whether it’s ‘The Kimberley Process’, ‘FairTrade Gold’, ‘CIBJO’,

‘Ethical Jewellery’ or ‘Action for Market Towns’ to name a few, the views of our

membership are always well represented at the ‘top table’.

Plus, more recently, the NAG has developed member initatives such as ‘Safergems’ (in

conjunction with TH March to improve the fight against crime), the ‘Executive Development

Forum’ (a member forum committed to sharing ideas and improving sales) and the

‘Institute of Registered Valuers’ (setting standards for

professional valuers). Add the NAG’s industry renowned JET I & 2 Education and Training

online courses to the list, as well as publishing its very own magazine The Jeweller, and

it is clear to see the NAG is proactively involved in all aspects of the trade.

The NAG is your voice and your trade association for the UK Jewellery industry –

collectively and together we can work to achieve a better industry for everyone.

If you would like to find out what working together can achieve for the benefitof all, please call Amy Oliver on 020 7613 4445 and find out about the differentmembership schemes available to retailers, manufacturers and designers.

Ask not what we can

do for you but what

together we can do

for the benefit of all. . .

Education • Representation • Communicationwww.jewellers-online.org

| BJA Feature


When you think of Tiffany & Co whatimage springs to mind? Is it the

exterior of one of their famous stores? Is it apiece of jewellery? Or is it that iconic littleblue box? For most of us I suspect it is thelatter and if ever anyone needed proof ofthe power of packaging then that modest,understated and so much-coveted objectmust surely be it.

Time was when navy or black faux-leatherboxes were ubiquitous among the nation’sjewellers but not anymore. Even the smallest independent jewellery store is now,according to Meyer Sarfati, marketing director of Noble Gift Packaging, wanting tofollow in the footsteps of the big boys andcreate their own branded look with three orfour items of packaging – a pouch, a box, an outer box and a bag – now the norm formost jewellery purchases.

“We introduced our bespoke packagingoption into the UK just four years ago and ithas rapidly become the biggest part of ourbusiness here,” Sarfati told me. But in thesedifficult economic times, isn’t this moreexpensive than buying off the shelf?

“Not necessarily – designing your ownlook and buying in large quantities can actually make it cheaper and it has theadded advantage of ensuring that you canmaintain a consistent look over a period oftime. If you buy just fifty boxes off the shelf,box for box you will pay more and by the time you come to reorder it the line may have gone and you will have to havesomething different, so having no consistencyfor your customers. If you buy 3,000 boxesyou will always have them in stock and canreorder using your own tooling before yourun out,” he said.

For those companies prepared to buyeven larger quantities – over 50,000 pieces– there are greater savings to be made and if you don’t have room to hold all thestock yourself, Noble will store it for you atno cost and deliver it to your premises asand when it’s needed.

The trend to bespoke packaging has alsobeen noticed by Tom Potter, general manager of BJA member InternationalPackaging Corporation, who confirmed that his customers too are now moreadventurous in their choices and are optingfor their own pantone colour – or more frequently colours – and logos rather thanbuying standard items.

Bespoke packaging has always been atthe heart of Claire Weldon’s business. TheJewellers’ Box Company has no off-the-shelfproducts with all its Fair Trade boxes beingmade to order in Bangladesh in sheep orgoat leather. The leather is tanned usingeco-friendly vegetable dyes to achieveunusual and subtle shades across a hugecolour spectrum. The company also offers awide choice of luxurious Italian-fabric linings,again across a gamut of hues. Logos andbranding messages can be embossedwherever required or used to create an all-over pattern.

So what is proving popular for Weldon atthe moment? “Dark brown, orange and redare currently hot colours and ‘blueberry’flock is selling well for linings; this is a richpurple-blue fabric which shows off jewellery

Boxing cleverGetting the packaging right is a key ingredient in any retailer’ssuccessful corporate branding strategy and there are plenty ofBJA members who can assist them to do just that. Mary Brittainspoke to some British packaging firms to discover what theyhave on offer.

International PackagingCorporation (UK) Ltd

Alish Wholesale


BJA Feature |

to great advantage. We’re also doing reallywell with ‘bead’ boxes, both small and large,with interior channels in which to storebeads for collectable bracelets,” she told me.“Another recent success has been our newlittle box for wedding rings – in which tworings can lie flat for taking to the actual ceremony instead of using a pouch. Theseare supplied embossed with the currentyear making them a romantic souvenir.”

Ethical matters have long been a hot topicfor jewellers when buying gold, diamondsand precious stones and it would seem thatthe same concerns are now being broughtto bear when purchasing packaging, with anincreasing number of retailers seeking outeco-friendly options.

This trend has become so popular atNoble Gift Packaging that the company hasrecently introduced a completely new rangeof ‘Zero Tree’ eco-friendly packaging. Therange includes paper bags made out of sometruly unlikely materials including ‘stone’, ‘PETplastic bottles’ and bamboo pulp to namebut a few. The ‘stone’ option is particularlyinteresting using calcium carbonate in awaterless manufacturing process whichrequires no chemical bleaching, toxic gas orhazardous substances.

According to Sarfati the resulting paperand card, while being more difficult to workwith than normal, wood-based paper, is

“beautiful to the touch while also beingtougher and harder to tear”. Productioncosts are higher and would, Safarti tells me,normally cost twice as much to buyalthough at present Noble is offering themat comparative prices to its non-eco ranges.

All the packaging companies I spoke with were equally passionate about theirproducts and all were convinced of the

importance to jewellers of investing wiselyand well in this area of their business. AsClaire Weldon explained: “If your customeris spending a couple of thousand poundson a piece of jewellery, you spending a fewpounds on a box to contain that jewellery isneither here nor there, and you shouldnever underestimate the importance of getting it just right.”

Ethical matters have longbeen a hot topic for jewellerswhen buying gold, diamondsand precious stones and itwould seem that the sameconcerns are now beingbrought to bear when purchasing packaging, with an increasing numberof retailers seeking out eco-friendly options.

The Jewellers’ Box Company

Just Brothers

| Security


Hardly a week goes by without ourSaferGems colleagues circulating an

alert about robberies or fraud allegedlycommitted by nationals from other parts ofEurope. As a small island clinging to theedge of the continent we can sometimes be a bit insular in our beliefs; not to say a little paranoid that we alone are the targetsof foreign criminals. If it is any comfort, we are not alone in this belief, and as the initiative begins to forge links with itscounterparts in other countries, we are finding that many share common concerns.In fact, through our links with our Frenchcounterparts we have discovered that weshare many of their concerns.

Saint Eloi, the French union of watch andjewellery traders, was set up in 1979 andrepresents over 1,500 outlets in France;accounting for half the sector’s annualturnover (2.5 billion Euros). They report thatFrench watch and jewellery traders arefaced with more robberies committed with extreme violence, increasing by 30 per cent in 2010, when over 190 suspectswere detained. Not unexpectedly Paris suffers most, with Bouches-du-Rhone andLanguedoc-Roussillon particular hotspotsbecause of their proximity to borders withother EU countries, allowing easy escape.

According to the French, one of the causesof the increase is the practice of buying goldback over the counter. Like the UK, Frenchgoldsmiths and jewellers are doing significantbusiness since the recent raw material pricerises. While there is an obligation for identityinformation to be collected and registeredin the livre de police there are fears that thisis circumvented by companies based in otherEuropean countries. The practice of buyingback gold over the counter provides a meansby which robbers get rid of their spoils, andthe French feel that disparities in laws acrossEurope have a bearing on the handling ofstolen goods. They cite Belgium and Holland,and particularly Antwerp, as being the hub for the handling of stolen stones andprecious metals.

Payment in cash is another problem high-lighted by our French counterparts. SinceJanuary 2011 the authorities have imposeda ceiling of €500, and while most jewellersare unaffected because their tendency hasalways been to supply new goods ratherthan cash, they are again concerned that thesame limitations do not apply across the EU.Aside from the economic harm resulting fromviolent robberies, our neighbours across the Channel have the same concerns aboutthe effect on shop staff, and having set up

psychological support units, are now countingthe cost. Staff recruitment and retention has also suffered, and problems with theavailability and cost of insurance are beginning to have a serious effect on theviability of many businesses.

Saint Eloi feels that part of the solution to this growing problem lies in closer co-operation between European policeforces, amendments to legislation – especiallythe money laundering directive – and somestandardisation of laws across the continent.We have an almost completely unregulatedsituation in the UK and it cannot be longbefore law enforcement agencies here seekto redress the imbalance. My view is thatmore regulation, while it may be necessary,will not cure the problem unless it can be applied in a practical way, and is not burdensome to jewellers.

Good newsIn early November SaferGems circulatedalerts containing images of a ‘family’ distraction team that had committed sleightof hand and distraction thefts at jewellerystores across England.

A couple of weeks later an eagle-eyedmember telephoned SaferGems to reportthat the family had just walked past hisstore. Having notified other jewellers in thearea he called our co-ordinator who promptlycontacted the local police force, whostopped a vehicle containing the distractionteam which consisted partly of an EasternEuropean female and a fourteen year old boy.

They were subsequently questioned aboutoffences committed in four other policeforce areas and as a result the female andyoung boy were bailed to addresses in theWest Midlands. Despite their not beingremanded into custody, this is another goodexample of SaferGems members identifyingsuspects from alerts and our links withpolice forces that have once again resultedin arrests being made.

If you have suspicions or incidents to share,please get in touch with SaferGems on tel:0845 272 7802, fax: 0845 272 7803 oremail: [email protected]

Two Way TrafficCrime against jewellers is not just a UK issue. Michael Hoarereports on the situation from the other side of the Channel as well as some good news closer to home.

www.sa fe rgems.org .uk


| Ethical Jeweller


During the past couple of years, almostevery issue of this magazine has

included a news story giving the names ofbusinesses that have achieved certificationfrom the Responsible Jewellery Council. The honourable roll call has included morethan a few diamond manufacturers and someglobally renowned retail brands… all veryencouraging developments.

However, this might give the impressionthat jumping through the necessary hoops toachieve this recognition of ethical complianceis only possible if you’re one of the ‘big boys’.It might also seem as though RJC certificationisn’t something that a small, independentjeweller (or even a UK-based multiple) needconcern himself with – particularly if theprocess is difficult or onerous.

Well, just to put a lie to this premise, it can be announced that last month HarrietKelsall Jewellery Design, an independentbusiness that cannot boast an outlet inBond or Sloane Streets, has passed the various appraisals and audits to achieve certification. It is, in fact, the first independentjewellers in the UK to do so and HarrietKelsall herself is extremely keen that verymany others will follow her lead. “I feel thatI am trail-blazing something really importantso that small businesses won’t get leftbehind,” she says.

“It isn’t enough for a company whichwants to be ethical to simply stock Fairtradegold and think that is enough to tick their‘ethical’ box,” she adds. “It is important forus to do this – but we need to do even better than that. Holding your business up

against a set of guidelines, showing anexample of a good company behaving wellis also important – as are many other aspectsof our behavior within this industry.”

Call her evangelical, but Kelsall is so convinced that RJC certification is “an excellent initiative” that she is more thanhappy to do what she can to help other smallbusinesses tackle the processes involved.“We would strongly urge other organisationsin the industry to strive for it,” she says.

“My feeling is that if we smaller businessesdon’t get involved in this, we put ourselvesat a disadvantage because bigger ones willbe able to say “look, we’re responsible –we’ve had an audit to prove it”.

“In fact the smaller companies mightactually be more responsible and should, intheory, find it easier to prove,” she adds.“My worry is that smaller businesses mightget frightened off and left at a disadvantagebecause of this.”

“It is certainly a robust review of a business which has leftme feeling much more confident about areas of the businesswhich had previously been a bit woolly…”

Setting agood exampleHarriet Kelsall Jewellery Design has just become the first independent jeweller in the UK to achieve RJC certification. No walk in the park… but well worth the effort on so many levels, as she is keen to explain.

The first British jeweller to receive the honourThe first UK-based retailer to achieve RJC certification was F Hinds. “We didn’t see anydirect commercial benefit, but felt it was the ‘right thing to do’. Just because somebody isinvolved in business doesn’t mean they don’t have the same view of right and wrong asthose looking in from outside. We felt that the RJC was an excellent initiative and werekeen to support it,” comments Andrew Hinds, director and diamond buyer. “The wholething was not too onerous given the scope of the RJC’s ambit – the codes of practice took some time to digest and process, but this was helped by the assessment criteriaspreadsheet which was very easy to use, albeit somewhat lengthy.

“Our auditors were extremely efficient and friendly – a joy to work with, taking a lot ofworry out of the process. Effective communication between the company and the auditors is very much a key to certification, and being organised prior to their visit. The RJC,in particular Anna Leach, were very helpful in the build up to certification and are literallyat hand to answer any questions or queries,” he adds.

“There were some minor changes we had to make which have since been implemented.Many of these made sense and formed part of the auditor’s recommendations rather thanthe assessment criteria – more a case of someone with a fresh, untainted perspectivelooking at how we do business and suggesting a different way of performing certain tasksand functions. Overall, it was quite a positive experience.”

Harriet Kelsall


Ethical Jeweller |

So, with the final audit and the preparationfor it is still fresh in her mind (and in theminds of her whole team!) Kelsall offers this outline and guide to gaining certificationin the sincere hope that others will beencouraged to follow her example.

No excuses“I often hear people say things like ‘Oh, Idon’t think the RJC thing is worth doing’.This is an utter cop-out!” she says. “Theyfeel it’s going to be too hard and don’t wantto think about it. They may have got as faras downloading the RJC documents and feltout of their depth – it’s ‘too difficult’.

”It’s true that the documents are writtenin ‘corporate speak’ and appear complicated,but that’s no reason not to do it. It’s the sortof language that usually has people like merun screaming in the opposite direction –but I have proved that it’s possible to do. I know that the NAG and the BJA together are looking at ways to simplify thedocumentation… once they have gatheredenough members from both organisationswho are keen to get certified.

“There is also a body of opinion that feels the RJC was set up by many of thebusinesses which may have historically donethe most ‘ethical harm’ in the jewelleryindustry. This is a different sort of cop-out.The fact, if true, isn’t relevant. What does itmatter who set it up? And if these companiesare now taking steps in the right direction,that can’t be a bad thing. Better late thannever, surely?

“If you’re reading this and thinking that wemust be a company with time on our hands,having managed to achieve certification –think again! We’re lucky enough to beincredibly busy, but I really wanted to check that we were behaving responsibly,”Kelsall adds.

The process“Essentially, all you have to do is think throughyour whole business and cover off all areascarefully,” she says. “Things to check are:• you have a ‘procedure’ where one is

needed• you’re obeying employment law• you are behaving responsibly in matters

such as money laundering, bribery,conflict diamonds, health and safety,hazardous chemicals etc. Check all ofthese with a fine tooth comb!

• you communicate with your team –make sure that everyone understandsthe important issues like conflict diamonds and product integrity. The latter includes issues like treatments– we hadn’t been detailing exactlywhat treatment had occurred to a diamond for instance. We went throughour stock and made sure this wasmore clearly described. I’m pleased we have done this because it’s sensible– now we can be confident that we

aren’t accidentally misleading a customerinto thinking that a colour-treated diamond is natural.

• training has been completed for allstaff and it is properly recorded.

• you have a business partner protocol.For us this was a change from an informal understanding of which supplier has what ethics etc, into a

spreadsheet detailing who has whatposition. This is not insisted upon by the RJC – but our own approach.

A self-audit“Ahead of the certification audit we neededto perform a self-audit which took our general manager a full working week to do.This was to check all 114 of the RJC’s questions against what we had in place.• The team were briefed in advance

about who might be asked what by theauditor. This was helpful and served toreally improve the understanding onthese areas of the business.

• We checked and researched newchanges to the law.

• Preparation is critical. Our general manager created a folder which tookthe auditor through each question andprovided copies of evidence for them.He also created his own working document for the code of practices,which was more ‘user-friendly’ than the RJC ‘self-assessment’ booklet

• We would advise a ‘final countdownprocess’ as this really helped buildmomentum and we felt a sense ofeveryone being ‘up for it’ and wantingto do well.

“If we smaller businessesdon’t get involved in this,we are putting ourselves at a disadvantage”

�

Harriet Kelsall Jewellery Design showroom

| Ethical Jeweller


The audit“This took a day in our HQ and another day in our second branch. For the latter the auditor chose a selection of questions,but you have to prepare everything as youcannot assume what will be asked. In ourcase a lot of attention was paid to HR andmoney-laundering (the non-jewellery areas)and less on product integrity and conflictdiamonds – this was probably due to theauditor’s expertise and comfort zone.

In all I would estimate that it took 10-15working days from looking at the documentation to completing the audit. Thecost of the audit was £1,200 and around£100 in expenses. It should also bestressed that most of what you have to do,genuinely needs to be done anyway.”

With all of the above in mind, Kelsall feels jewellers need to think about whatthey really want as a jewellery industry. “Dowe want to make sure we are behaving as responsibly as we can? Yes”, she says.“Does it make sense for there to be a list ofthings about our business which I shouldlook over so that I can check I am behavingresponsibly – by comparing my business toexamples of ‘good practice’ from responsiblebusinesses. Yes. This is all that the RJC isabout – it is as simple as that.”

It may have felt hard-going at times but in the final analysis Kelsall clearly feels thatthe effort has been worth it. “It is certainly arobust review of a business which has left me feeling much more confident about

areas of the business which had previouslybeen a bit woolly or which were reliant on information in my head rather thansomething simple written down showinghow things should be done,” she says.

And there’s no doubt that the industry as a whole will ultimately benefit from the RJC’s initiative. “The first independent jeweller achieving RJC certification is veryimportant – especially within the currentindustry context,” says BJA CEO Simon Rainer.“The last decade has seen considerablechange in the jewellery sector. Many moreminers, raw material processors, designersand jewellers want to act responsibly andethically, and with due respect for the planet and the people that populate it,” saysMichael Hoare, the NAG’s CEO. “In that timethere has also been a flourishing of ethicalinitiatives touching on all levels and segmentsof the sector. However the supply chain iscomplex with a proliferation of companiesand individuals playing their part in bringingproducts to market. The result is a web ofsometimes complementary, sometimesconflicting, and often overlapping schemes,each with their own priorities, time scales,and ultimate objectives,” he adds. “The RJCis the first to bring an integrated certificationscheme from mine to retail, and Harriet is in the vanguard of UK retailers achievingthat standard.” �

Beaverbrooks also achieves certificationAnother UK retailer to have received RJC certification is Beaverbrooks. “We were one ofthe first retailers to support the RJC when we joined in 2009. This was driven by our desire to play a part in building consumer confidence within the industry while purchasing diamond and gold jewellery,” says buyer Phillip McBride. “In recent years wehave spent a lot of time developing a greater understanding of the purpose of our business. We worked out which values we feel are key to our business – Integrity, Passion& Caring. We also developed a list of ‘behaviours’ giving people real clarity as to ‘how people are supposed to act around here’. We quickly realised that being part of the RJC and working within their ‘code of practices’ complements and fits very nicely into our ‘values and beliefs’. We actively encourage all of our suppliers to support the RJC code of practices too – we feel that achieving the accreditation can only further helpstrengthen this cause.

“Initially the idea of the self assessment was a little daunting and we thought it could betime consuming. However, once we had developed a strategy it was actually very inter-esting and enjoyable to analyse every area of the business and it was a good reminder ofall the great things that we already do well,” he explains.

“Having certification means we have a very strong message to give to all our customer-facing team members; they can now confidently say we work within the ‘code of practices’of the RJC and we support ethical sourcing practices through the supply chain. We feelthis is vital in order to build consumer confidence within our precious industry.”

Many more miners, rawmaterial processors, designers and jewellers want to act responsibly andethically, and with duerespect for the planet…”

Harriet Kelsall Jewellery Design showroom


Contact Gemvision to find out how

T: 0113 3899710 E: [email protected]

...you could turn a piece that your customer likes, into something they love.

Well now you can.

Imagine if...

Best Baltic Amber

To see more or for further information please contact us on tel: 01494 524124

or email: [email protected]

| Opinion: Tony Gordon


Sometimes I think of myself as the OldMan of the contemporary jewellery scene

– well, after almost 40 years selling the workvia my gallery and more than 30 in Dazzlewith my partner Christine, I have reason to!

In that time this niche has evolved enormously. It has grown to the point wheremakers are followed and collected and notjust by the mega-wealthy. Many now earn aliving from designing and making whereas,when I started, there were less than half adozen such designers and even they weresubsidised by teaching income.

Many designers are now well known, somefor sheer longevity, others for their specialities– such as Jane Adam for anodising aluminium,and Sheila McDonald for enameling. Manynow create work that is instantly recognisable– the benefit of stylisation!

Why such expansion? Initially it was becauseof the spread of specialised galleriesthroughout the country and latterly qualitycraft events like Chelsea Craft Fair and theGraham Hughes-inspired Loot at GoldsmithsHall. Dazzle itself, with its four annual exhibitions in Scotland, Manchester andLondon now has a 60,000 strong mailing list.

The other factor – a key one – has beenthe influence of a suddenly enthusiasticnational press, which has cottoned on tothis world of talented, trend-bucking design-ers. There’s also the interest created by theintriguing use of alternative materials –paper, wood, fabrics and an array of differ-ent plastics plus the more conventional silver, gold and platinum. Base metals andrefractory metals, such as titanium, offer acolour alternative to gemstones.

Also colleges are teaching new skills to amuch more international intake of students,

who in their turn influence the work beingproduced. South East Asians who can affordthe high fees and are staying in the UK aftergraduation are figuring prominently in majorexhibitions and are a huge influence onthose that follow.

So where is this branch of the industrygoing? Is it standing still or changing?

It is certainly evolving and I am not surewhether that is all for the good. I have a personal fear that galleries are quickly disappearing and that retail events such asDazzle may well ultimately join them. Thecause is the internet, which is dramaticallychanging the way people buy their jewellery.

Galleries and selling events have, to date,acted as showrooms, selling the work ofnew and established designers directly to thepublic; getting it known to a wider audience.However, the internet is about to kill all ofthis; the designers and the public are slowlysqueezing the very retailers who havechampioned them. The numbers of thesemiddle men/women are being steadilywhittled down as customers increasinglyvisit these ‘showrooms’ but then returnhome to buy online, direct from the makers.

Galleries and selling shows name all themakers showing. They have invested timeand money in these designers (taking themon at the point of graduation, nurturing andsupporting them while they learn the ropes)but are losing a huge and fast-decreasingvolume of sales. Buying direct from jewellers’websites often involves a reduced price, asthe makers inevitably discount to securesales, making the competition all the moreuneven. Many gallery owners clearly seetheir writing on the wall.

The ‘new jewellers’ route to the marketwill then have to be of their own making –spending huge sums on personal promotion,trade and retail shows where selection maynot be guaranteed. They will have to becometheir own retailers and simultaneously forfeitthe supportive network that the likes ofDazzle – which has a portfolio of over 1,000designers from all around the world – canoffer. Some will rely on the ever-expandingroute of social media – which means sellingthrough telephones, pcs, netbooks, laptopsand tablets… but not face to face.

You might argue that this is progress but Iwould question whether never feeling ortrying on the jewellery is progress. These areoften major investments – is this really theway the public want to go in the longer term?

Yes, we too have an online business andit’s booming, but, like other competing websites, is feeding off the same customerswho were loyal to our exhibitions and who know the work they are seeing onlinesimply because it has been introduced tothem in the flesh at Dazzle. Without theexhibitions these online clients will eventuallydisappear, but for how much longer can weafford to finance them?

The shows must go on!

Dazzle, the contemporary jewellery exhibition, celebrates its30th anniversary this month. Tony Gordon, the force behind thenationwide event reflects on the changing world of this sectorand his fears for its future.

Sue Gregor

Grainne Morton

BQW 136 Burnt Oak Broadway, Edgware, Middlesex HA8 0BB T: 020 8731 2563 [email protected]

£50,000PAID IMMEDIATELYUP TO

WE WANT TO BUY YOUR ROLEXAny condition, even broken or unwanted

Extra premiums paid for original paperwork and boxes

Call 0208 731 2563 now for a quote

VISIT US AT:

Spring Fair International

5th-9th Feb 2012, NEC BirminghamStand 17S42-T43

| Insurance Matters


Crime is one of the least attractive sides toour industry and something which may

have affected a retailer you know or even yourown business. Gangs and thieves operateall over the UK and their methods are notnew but they are becoming more frequentand more dangerous to businesses. As aninsurer we see firsthand the consequencesand the value of loss to the jewellery tradeeach year so in 2009, in partnership with theNAG, TH March developed SaferGems; aninitiative to provide much needed intelligenceand support for the continuous fight againstcrime in the jewellery and associated trades,including antique and fine art industries.

SaferGems is a unique proposition andwas set up to help address the serious crimesof which the jewellery trade is an increasingtarget. Unlike other security initiatives in placeat the time of its launch, SaferGems set out toidentify and help to address the issues thatcontribute to serious crime by compiling aconfidential national, geographical databaseof incidents, crimes and suspects. TheSaferGems database is vital for police andtheir ongoing enquiries; we have links to all

43 police forces in the UK and are adependable source for investigations.

SaferGems is not only integral to helpingpolice with their investigations but in turnpolice are vital to supplying information tohelp with SaferGems alerts. They are able tooffer intelligence on some of the crimeswhich jewellers do not report to SaferGemsand on a case-by-case basis are sometimesable to give confidential information whichcannot be made public but which is of useto SaferGems’ co-ordination of data.

Of course, it’s not just police who makeSaferGems a success but the jewellery tradetoo; retailers need to continue to log suspicious behaviour and criminal offences.If you have suffered firsthand or spottedsomething untoward then you need to makeother retailers aware, it’s easy to do andtakes just minutes – log a report at theSaferGems website www.SaferGems.org.ukor direct by phone on 0845 272 7802.Reports of activity are then sent to membersof the NAG, the BJA and also TH March policy holders. The reports highlight the suspicious activity from cars involved in a

robbery to CCTV images, as well as areas inwhich gangs and thieves are operating.

Since SaferGems launched in June 2009,over 1,110 reports have been made and420 alerts have been sent out. These havecovered thefts, robberies, burglaries, creditcard fraud and suspicious activity throughoutthe UK. As a direct result of SaferGems, 14arrests have been made and SaferGemshas assisted with a further 12 as well asbeing integral to ongoing police enquiries.

One example is that of two men who hadcommitted £2,300 worth of jewellery theftin Hull – this instance was picked up by theSaferGems team which linked the type ofcrime and description of criminals to previousreports that had been made from the trade.The offenders in question had committedcrimes in six police regions from Kent toNorth Yorkshire and South Wales but werestill unknown; it wasn’t until a similar offenceoccurred in the Lothian and Borders Policearea which then led to the arrest of a 33-year-old man and a 17-year-old boy.Police subsequently worked alongside theSaferGems team to obtain details of previous suspected crimes by the duo, whopleaded guilty to the robberies in Hull andSouth Wales and are currently on remand.

Following the arrests, Detective SergeantJohn Fuller from Humberside Police said:“The information and assistance given bySaferGems was invaluable and contributedto not only the identification of the men fortheir involvement with the Hull theft but alsoother linked offences. Ultimately, without thesupport of SaferGems it would have taken agreat deal of time to identify these men andbring them to justice.”

The arrests prove that the jewellery industryneeds this support to fight crime and combatas many offences as possible. SaferGemsgoes from strength-to-strength and continuesto gain momentum as more businesses usethe service. It’s a simple tactic to cut crimeand your information could be vital to thejewellery industry. Report suspicious activitythrough the website, then, if you are amember of the NAG, BJA or insured on aJewellers’ or Antique and Fine Art Dealers’Block Policy via TH March, look out for theSaferGems alerts. If you are not receivingthem, check that your e-mail address on thebranch page of the SaferGems website is upto date; if you cannot get access to the data,talk to TH March or your trade association.

two years on...In the light of continuing crime against those in the jewelleryindustry, Michael Ferraro of TH March sheds a more positivelight at the end of the tunnel.


1 s22 - 24 January, SECC, Glasgow

for gifts that sell

www.scotlandstradefairs.co.ukShow open times:Sunday 22 January 09.30-17.30Monday 23 January 09.30-17.30Tuesday 24 January 09.30-16.30

Scotland’sTrade Fair

Spring

Over 500 suppliers exhibiting the very best Scottish and International ranges with thousands of new ideas to tempt your customers.Clothing and textiles, jewellery and fashion accessories, bath and body, home and giftware, food and drink.

To register for your free visitor badge, see a full list of exhibitors or for further informationplease visit: www.scotlandstradefairs.co.uk

Scotland’s Trade Fairs are organised by Springboard Events Ltd on behalf of Clarion Events Ltd. Email: [email protected].

DaysShow

of Great Ideas!

Whether you are opening a new placeof business or refreshing your existing

premises, timing is key to ensuring thateverything is finished and ready for yourlaunch date. In particular, you will need toagree with your designers and fitters inadvance precisely what you require them todo and set out realistic timescales for theirpart in the work to be completed.

To prevent any dispute as to what hasbeen agreed, the scope and details of thework, costs and all deadlines will need to beclearly set out in the contract between thebusiness owner and the contractor. Butwhat can be done to ensure that the agreedtimescales are met?

Where a contract between a businessowner and contractor specifies a deadlinefor completion of work, the business ownermust be able to enforce that condition andto get the work back on track as quickly aspossible if the contractor falls behind.

Protect yourself: Liquidated DamagesClaiming damages for breach of contract isa lengthy process and will do nothing to assistthe business owner either in his relationshipwith the contractor or in having the premisesready for the launch date. A more practicalapproach would be to put a provision in placefor liquidated damages, which are an instantform of compensation that will motivate thecontractor to meet their deadlines and com-pensate the business owner if they do not.

Liquidated damages are a fixed sumagreed in advance by contracting parties ascompensation for a specific type of breach.The contract will set out the amount of

damages (or their method of calculation ifappropriate) and the circumstances in whichthey must be paid.

The advantage of this approach is itsspeed and simplicity. There is no need forthe parties to go to court for an award to bemade as the payment takes the form of adebt that becomes immediately payable onthe occurrence of the specified event (suchas missing a deadline), so the businessowner need only demand the paymentfrom the contractor.

Liquidated damages have the additionalbenefit that they encourage the contractorto meet deadlines since they will be aware oftheir financial obligations and how easily thecompensation can be claimed. Nevertheless,it is important that the agreed figure is agenuine pre-estimate of loss and the business owner must not be tempted to seta higher sum as an attempt to deter theconsultant from breaching the contract. A liquidated damages clause that is intendedas a deterrent will be seen by the court as apenalty and will not be enforceable.

Performance GuaranteeAs additional protection, the business ownermay consider entering into a performanceguarantee with a third party guarantor. Thisis a separate agreement under which theguarantor (most often the contractor’s parent company) provides a guarantee thatthe contractor will perform their obligationsat the agreed time in accordance with theterms of the contract. Should the contractorfail to meet their obligations, the guarantorwill be required to pay a sum of money tothe business owner. To avoid such liability,the guarantor will want to monitor and pushthe contractor to ensure timely performancebut if this does not happen, the businessowner has the right to payment. This can beparticularly useful where the contractor is anew company or the business owner hasconcerns about their solvency.

Due DiligenceEven where a guarantee is given, there is no substitute for carrying out adequate duediligence on the contractor before theirengagement. No business owner can affordthe risk of its contractor going out of businessbefore the work is complete, so it must takemeasures to research the contractor’s business,history, experience and client endorsementin order to be satisfied that the contractor isand will remain solvent.

ConclusionFitting or refitting a business premises canbe a costly business, but with advance plan-ning, a clearly defined work scope andtimescale and careful consideration of con-tract terms, business owners can greatlyreduce the risk of additional expensecaused by contractor delays and disputes.

For further information call 0118 952 7209or visit: www.boyesturner.com

| Legal Jeweller


Keeping to the timetableMeeting deadlines and avoiding delays is critical if you’re planning a shop launch or re-fi. Solicitor Louisa Brogden fromthe commercial and technology team at Boyes Turner offersadvice on keeping contractors on track.

| Antique Jewellery


The Pre-Raphaelite Brotherhood, as it wasknown, was formed in the late 1840s by

the English artists William Holman Hunt, JohnEverett Millais and Dante Gabriel Rossetti(the last of the three later came to be themost celebrated of the artists). These foundermembers were joined by William MichaelRossetti and others who together formed aseven member ‘brotherhood’.

As well as these founder members therewas a larger Pre-Raphaelite circle that includeda number of other prominent, Victorianpainters and writers like Ford Madox Brownand the poet Christina Rossetti. Later, therewas what became known as a ‘secondary’aesthetic stage of the movement, whichincluded the artists Edward Burne-Jones,William Morris and J W Inchnold.

The basic intention of the Pre-Raphaelitemovement was to reject the artistic rulesand concepts prevalent at the time, whichthe members believed was mechanistic.They believed that the classical poses used by Raphael, in particular, had had anegative influence on art (hence the namePre-Raphaelite), and were particularlyscathing in their opinion of the RoyalAcademy founder Sir Joshua Reynoldswhose work William Rossetti dismissed as“commonplace” and “conventional”.

Their intention was to produce art thatcelebrated detail, vibrant and intense colours,

interesting and unconventional composition,similar to those of earlier Quattrocento andFlemish art.

Art historians have long suggested thatRossetti, Millais and their mates were the‘Brit Artists’ of their day; perhaps a more aptmodern comparison to the Brotherhood,though, would be the punk movement ofthe 1970s. More Sex Pistols than Tracy Emin(whose work is, actually, rather more sensitiveand introspective than might be supposed),the Pre-Raphaelites were deliberately andself-consciously anti-authority and anarchicin belief. Where there were artistic rules inplace, the boys set out to break them. Theywere, in short, very rock and roll.

JewelleryJewellery plays a significant role in the paintings of the Pre-Raphaelites. Given thegroup’s preoccupation with fashion, clothingand adornment, it makes sense that thejewellery that features in their work is notput there without thought or without meaning; in each, the choice of jewel isalways well-considered and purposeful, andoccasionally steeped in symbolism.

One reason for this is that the Pre-Raphaelites were operating in the midst of a quiet social revolution, one that allowedartists, writers and musicians to mix with thesociety hostesses of the day – socialisingbetween the classes, in effect. This inter-mingling in the artists’ own social lives had,inevitably, an influence on their work: the fashions and accessories worn by thewomen in the Pre-Raphaelite circle makesits way into the dress of their painted figures. The jewellery worn by the women

in Pre-Raphaelite art echoes the taste forcurious, often antique jewellery shared bythe women in the artists’ ‘aesthetic’ circle.

In fact, in many cases, the jewellery isactually the same – jewellery historianshave matched several pieces of Rossetti’sjewellery, now held by the Victoria & AlbertMuseum, to examples in his paintings.

Focusing on ObjectsThe Pre-Raphaelites were interested in testingboundaries in art: where the convention ofthe day was to paint groups in low colourand semi-lit, for example, they would workin bright, brilliant colours and in even light.This artistic rebelliousness also helps toexplain, in a way, the prominence of someof the jewellery that you see in the artists’work. Theirs was often a very precise, photographic emphasis on particular (oftenmundane) objects within their paintings,

AntiqueJ E W E L L E R YThe Pre-Raphaelites – who they wereIn the first of a series of features looking at jewellery in art, Jo Youngdelves into the world of the Pre-Raphaelite artists and examines theirparticular love affair with jewellery.

I n a s s o c i a t i o n w i t h F e l l o w s

Edward Burne-Jones

Edward Burne-Jones brooch


Antique Jewellery |

especially those in the immediate foreground,which other artists would tend to leave inshade or blurred. Thus our attention is beingdrawn to specific, small objects in thesepaintings in a way that was quite deliberateand quite self-conscious.

Regina CordiumIn Rossetti’s work Regina Cordium, forexample, the model Ada Vernon wears astriking gold, heart-shaped necklace thatjewellery historians Geoffrey Munn andCharlotte Gere propose is likely Spanisheighteenth century work. It is, they say, verylike a similar piece in the jewellery collectionat the V&A. In the top right hand corner ofthe painting, Rossetti has also included alarge pendant, featuring a cupid, that thepair suggest is likely a depiction of a rockcrystal carving.

What makes the jewellery in this paintingso interesting is its centrality: the necklacearound the sitter’s neck is positioned in thevery heart of the image, and is one of the

larger and more detailed elements of thepainting as a whole. The pendant in thebackground, too, is given real prominencein terms of its size and the quality of thebrushwork used to paint it.

Artists as jewellersAnother tenet of the movement was thatthe artists should be free to experiment with their art and their abilities, and shouldnot be limited to working in one medium;they felt that they should work across thedifferent creative fields, from poetry andprose writing to the less esteemed world of domestic arts and crafts. It was out of this artistic experimentation that the Artsand Crafts movement – one of the most significant in domestic design – waseffectively born, with Morris, Burne-Jonesand Rossetti’s design partnership having aprofound influence on decoration well intothe twentieth century.

Some artists, like Burne-Jones, worked verysucessfully themselves as jewellery designers.

A leading light of the movement, Burne-Jonesproduced a wealth of sketches for jewellerypieces, some of which were produced bythe more celebrated jewellery firms of theirday – including Child & Child and Carlo andArthur Giuliano.

The Giuliano firm, which was founded inthe 1880s by Carlo Giuliano, specialised in

The BelovedOne of Rossetti’s most famous paintings

is The Beloved (pictured). Produced in1865-66, the subject of the painting is thebride from the Song of Solomon. It featuresa wealth of interesting jewellery pieces, wornby each of the four principle characters portrayed in the picture.

The painting is one of a series of half-length portraits that Rossetti painted duringthe 1860s that ostensibly celebrate womenwhom, the artist claimed, “enshrine themystery of existence”. Despite some of theless savoury actions undertaken by Rossettiin his personal life, Rosetti’s stated aim inhis art was to explore aspects of femininity:beauty, sexuality, idealised love and, ofcourse, the ever-important notion of purityand virtue.

All the paintings in this series showedwomen surrounded by items designed toshow off their beauty, like flowers, musicalinstruments and jewellery. This one, TheBeloved, was unique in including not one character but several. The bride isaccompanied by four other women and aslave boy, all of whom are lavishly draped inrich textiles and jewellery. Several pieces of

jewellery in this painting were precious tothe artist. The bridesmaid at the centre backof the image, wears a seed pearl circularhairpin to hold her veil in place that Rossettiowned and particularly loved; it appears notonly in this painting but in others, includingMonna Vanna, painted the same year.

The bride also wears a nineteenth centuryBurmese bracelet in the shape of watermonsters (Makara), which was bequeathedto the V&A by William Morris’s daughter, thedesigner May Morris, in the 1930s.

The inclusion of a black character in thiswork, incidentally, is quite significant; this was

the only black figure the artist ever painted,and its inclusion is steeped in possible political and social meaning.

Some art historians suggest that a clue tothe importance of this inclusion lies in thepassages from the biblical Song of Solomonthat are written on the frame of the painting:‘My Beloved is mine and I am his’.

Crucially, the Song of Solomon famouslyalso included the lines, ‘I am black butcomely, O ye daughters of Jerusalem’.Rossetti did not depict his female protagonist– the bride – as black, choosing instead tostick to the red-haired, pale-skinned modelof beauty that so fixated all the Pre-Raphaeliteartists. Instead he included the small blackboy as a means, perhaps, of exploring beautyin different racial types: there are severalracial types present in this painting, and references to different ethnic cultures in thejewellery and accessories depicted. Therobe that the bride wears appears to beJapanese, while her hair ornaments areChinese featherwork; the boy wears a pendant that has the appearance of beingNorth African, and was in fact a frontletowned by and borrowed from Rossetti’sartist friend George Price Boyce. Boyce, likeRossetti, was fascinated by jewellery andowned a large collection.

Regina Cordium

�

| Antique Jewellery


revivalist jewellery and was known for theskill of its enamelling work. The jeweller produced a large number of pieces of jewellery based on the designs of Burne-Jones and received patronage from otherPre-Raphaelite artists. Child & Child, meanwhile, was a partnership establishedin Knightsbridge in 1880. It too specialisedin enamel work, and was also a favourite of the Pre-Raphaelite artists.

Edward Burne-JonesBorn in Birmingham in 1833, Edward Burne-Jones was an artist and designer who workedclosely with William Morris within the decorative arts as well as working prolificallyas a fine artist – some of his best knownwork is on display in the Tate Britain.

Through his enthusiastic take up of arange of arts, Burne-Jones helped to revivethe commercial fortunes of a whole rangeof traditional crafts, from stained glass totapestries and ceramic tiles, to mosiacs and book illustration. His stained glass work(which is quietly gorgeous) can be foundright the way around England; Burne-Jonesdesigned the stained glass in Birmingham’s

St Philip’s Cathedral, in the Philip Webb-designed Cumbrian church St Martin’s, inBrampton, and in Christ Church, Oxford.

He famously created a series of woodcutsfor the Kelmscott Press folio of Chaucer,produced in 1896, which was by far themost successful edition the firm producedand are among the most celebrated of hiscontributions to ‘domestic’ arts and crafts.

In jewellery terms, Burne-Jones is one of the more interesting members of the Pre-Raphaelite movement, the latter stagesof which he is most associated with. Heappeared to rather like working with jewellery, and designed quite a few piecesof it – often reusing preparatory drawings anddesigns for work in other media. Like manyjewellers before and after him, Burne-Joneswas very keen on the heart as a jewellerymotif, both as a symbol and as a declarationof love. Indeed, in one of the best-knownpaintings of Burne-Jones’ wife Georgiana,painted by her brother-in-law Edward Poynter,she is wearing a simply-designed, heart-shaped lapis lazuli pendant surrounded bypearls, which is presumed to have been agift from her husband. �

‘Georgiana’, paintedby Edward Poynter

Giulianobrooch

The Executive Development Forum. Feel the benefits!

EDF

What’s it all about? Simple!

You have the jewellery knowledge so we concentrate on business development and improvement. Always bearing in mind the special nature of the sector and that each business is unique.

We share, we learn, we improve and we realise real business improvement.

WIIFM! That inevitable question – What’s in it for me?

Well for a start you are losing the isolation many independents feel; you are part of a supportive community.

You can benchmark your performance against the best. You are exposed to specialists and services specific to your type of business.

You gain a massive amount of information and a range of diverse opinions which stimulate business improvement.

Why not you? The EDF members are keen to improve their businesses and they do!

Just like you they have challenges, skills, management issues and limited time to cover the multitude of tasks in running a jewellers. But most of all they are determined to win!

Why don’t you join them and share in their success?

So what… Look, we could go on for hours extolling the virtues of the EDF and still not answer that one question that you want to ask. So we won’t.

But that doesn’t answer your burning question. So pick up the phone and talk to Amanda on 020 7613 4445 who will give you all the information you need.

| Letters


Two sentences in a recent SaferGems Bulletinset me thinking. Under the media stories

for August I read the following attributed tothe Express & Star:(1) ‘There is no legislation covering the buying and selling of gold and independentgold retailers are becoming increasinglycommon in most towns and cities.’(2) ‘Police officers were now pleading for achange in the law to require all scrap metaltransactions to be recorded and ID taken.’

Taking the first point it may be the casenationally but not locally. Here in Kent there is already a local government act. In

accordance with section 5(2) of the KentCounty Council Act 2001 and section 5(2)of the Medway Council Act 2001, theCouncils require registration of all personsdealing in second hand goods and a copy of their certificate must be conspicuouslydisplayed when dealing with the public from premises in Kent or Medway. Henceanyone trading in second hand goods,

and by implication gold, must be registered. Apparently only four other areasof the country are covered in a similar way.(I understand that two are possibly Durhamand Nottingham?)

If the second point is true, and the policealso wish this to be the case nationally,maybe the NAG should be pushing for it aswell since it already advocates the use ofgold buying books. Also, HMRC approves theuse of such documentation as a means oftracking gold sales, albeit for tax reasons!

I certainly believe the second hand tradeshould be registered nationally as it is in Kent.

At the very least the NAG should considerpromoting best practice once again.Michael Payne, Payne & Son

Michael Hoare, CEO NAG replies:Mr Payne makes a very valid point. The dramatic rise in metal prices on world markets has led to a proliferation of informal

metal trading businesses. None more sothan in the precious metal sector; but metalssuch as copper and lead have also beenattracting premium prices.

High prices and the ease with which metals can be traded have led to anincrease in criminal activity. There are few ofus who haven’t had a rail journey disruptedby cable theft and this problem, along withthe theft of lead from roofs and the recklessremoval of manhole covers and road signs has had a dramatic effect in terms ofinsurance losses, risk to life and limb, anddamage to public buildings. As a result thereare moves afoot to more closely monitorscrap dealers and the pressure is now on toextend this to jewellers and others who buyprecious metals.

For many jewellers, gold buying hasproved a lifeline in recent months, not onlyproviding income, but also driving footfall.The downside is that they have sometimesalso unwittingly provided an easy disposalroute for criminals, effectively launderingstolen gold. Our SaferGems intelligenceconfirms this, as do police contacts withwhom I have discussed the issue, and ourEuropean trade association contacts givethe same evidence.

Quite recently the NAG and BJA beganconsultation with a major UK police forcethat is intent on establishing a code of conduct for gold buyers. They were unawareof the Kent Act, but are now looking to it asa potential model for their own efforts. It istoo early to report on their progress, butboth of our associations are right behindtheir efforts to find a practical method ofauthenticating gold sales. If the right modelcan be found, then I think a national roll outwill follow in the near future.

The editor’s postbagthis month coversthe buying and selling of gold aswell as the efficacyof SaferGems.

Letters tothe Editor

In case there are any readers out there whoare still to be convinced that signing up for

SaferGems alerts is a good idea, I wanted to pass on my own recent experience. As acompany that buys in around £5 millionworth of precious metal a week, we naturallywork very closely with the Birmingham police.Our business is on the main road in theBirmingham Jewellery Quarter, so we are ina good position to report on much of what

goes on in the area. Recently we discoveredthat the BJA – of which we are a member –had joined up with the SaferGems initiative,so we signed up for the email alerts. No sooner had we done this than the firstalert we looked at showed seven suspectswanted for a number of robberies and distraction-type crimes, covering an areafrom Harrogate to Devon… I recognised allof them! I phoned the local authorities to letthem know that this group were known inthe Jewellery Quarter and a colleague in anearby jewellery business, who had also

looked at the SaferGems email was evenable to supply a car registration number.The upshot is that most of the seven havenow been arrested, which is excellent news.Crime, particularly against the jewelleryindustry, is reaching a dreadful level in this country – I've been at the sharp andvery unpleasant receiving end of it myself.The more that we can do to combat it thebetter and it’s clear that people are payingattention to the SaferGems alerts.Nigel Blackburn, Lois Jewellery Birmingham

Proof thatSaferGems works!

Gold purchasers should be registered

The downside is that [jewellers] have sometimes also unwittingly provided an easy disposal route for criminals,effectively laundering stolen gold.

Target the key decisionmakers with The Jeweller!

To advertise in the magazine contact sales director Ian Francis on tel: +44 (0) 20 7613 4445 or email: [email protected]

For subscriptions call Amanda White at the NAG on tel: +44 (0) 20 7613 4445 or email: [email protected]

The Jeweller is the only trade title that enjoys

the support of both UK trade associations, the

National Association of Goldsmiths (NAG) and the

British Jewellers’ Association (BJA). This authoritative

publication produced by the NAG has a 4,000+

strong circulation with a readership of over 17,000.

Now published ten times a year it has a broader

appeal across the industry for retailers, suppliers,

manufacturers, designers with news and comments

from both associations, reinforcing its position as

the ‘Voice of the Industry’.

Editorial contributions from respected people in

the industry, a controlled distribution to NAG and

BJA members, the targeting of influential industry

decision makers and a competitive rate card are

all factors that keep The Jeweller

one step ahead of its rivals and

ensure a cost-effective vehicle

for advertisers.

The Jeweller is the only publication

that you need to target the people

that you want to do business with.

The only trade titlewith the exclusive support of both theNAG and the BJA

| Regular


The Crown Jewels by Anna Keay(£38.00 Thames & Hudson)Written by the curatorial director of EnglishHeritage, this large format, beautifully illustrated book is the result of a collaborationbetween the publishers and The RoyalCollection and Historic Royal Palaces. It tellsthe story of what is the most complete collection of royal regalia in the world – this covers everything from the 12th centurysilver gilt spoon used for anointing at a coronation (described in a 1349 inventoryas of ‘antique forme’) to the major gems setin the various crowns. There are detailed

images, paintingsand photos ofthe regalia beingworn; explanatorytext based onoriginal research(recounting theCrown Jewels’d e v e l o p m e n t

over the centuries) and a complete inventory of the collection. Groups ofcrowns are shown in sequence, includingrather fascinating crown frames – withouttheir stones as well as one rather casual shotof the coronation jewels unceremoniously

laid out on a bench, waiting to be altered forthe future Queen Elizabeth ll.

Understanding Jewellery by DavidBennett & Daniella Mascetti(£45.95 Antique Collectors’ Club)This reprinted bookwritten by Fellowsof Gem-A offers a comprehensiveguide to 19th and20th century jew-ellery, from themethods used toidentify and date pieces, to the factors that can affect their value. Around 1,000colour illustrations are accompanied bystraightforward yet thorough explanations,including introductions to gemstones andstylistic developments of jewellery.

Practical Gemmology by DeeDeeCunningham (£25.99 Robert Hale)The original book of this title was first published in 1943 and has been throughsix editions since then, the last being in1976 – and a lot has happened in the worldof gemmology since then. There are a wholehost of topics that the author (a distinguished

gemmologist) has obviously needed to lookat: high tech treatments, synthetic diamonds,new developments in instruments and testing… Rather thanchapters, the book isdivided into lessons,each serving as aseparate lecture, withmuch more attentionpaid this time to gem species, as wellas organic gems (likeamber and coral) and pearl. Ideal for gemmology diploma students, this book iswritten clearly enough to be read by readersof all levels of understanding.

Paper Jewellery by Sarah Kelly(£45.95 Antique Collectors’ Club)The latest in ACC’s ‘design & make’ series,this guide to jewellery-making couldn’t befurther removed from the realm of preciousmetals and gemstones… seemingly. But toglance through its pages is to discoveranother definition of body adornment – abreathtaking collection of jewellery madefrom paper using a variety of different tech-niques. The author, one of the designers ofsuch jewellery, guides us through differentmethods of creation, from folding and pleating to crochetingand sculpting. Thereare also many exam-ples of paper usedtogether with other,finer materials like gold,silver and enamel. BluePeter this ain’t!

Sales & ExhibitionsDecemberCurrent-1st January 2012: Dazzle, Royal Exchange Theatre, ManchesterContemporary jewellery fair, open to thepublic. www.dazzle-exhibitions.com

Current-8th January 2012: Dazzle, National Theatre, South Bank, LondonDetails as above

Current-12th February2012: Reflection –Contemporary Visual Arts& Crafts in Edinburgh, City Arts Centre

A showcase of 22 selected artists and makerscelebrating 10 years of this sector in the cityincluding work by jeweller Clare Hillerby (left).www.edinburghmuseums.org.uk

January6th-15th: Wohoooh!!! National TaipeiUniversity of Education, Taipei City, TaiwanContemporary jewellery vs. art vs. design,from 10 makers from five nations.www.facebook.com/wohoooh

22nd-25th: Showcase Ireland: RDS (Main Hall), DublinIrish-made, design-led products will be on show at this fair which will include a

runway show, trends area, retail seminarsand networking events.www.showcaseireland.com

Jewellery & Watch Trade FairsDecember9th-11th: Mumbai Jewellery & Gem Fair,Bombay Exhibition Centre, Mumbai, IndiaThis inaugural Asian fair offers gold, silverand gemstone jewellery, loose stones andwatches. www.jewelryfair.in

January14th-19th: Vicenza Oro First, Fiera di Vicenza Spa, ItalyThe calendar of jewellery events kicks off

NotebookWhere to go, what to read, what to see…


Regular |

with this1500 exhibitor fair with all elementsof the industry including machinery andtechnical instruments. www.vicenzaoro.org

15th-17th: Top Drawer, Earls Court, LondonFashion and gift trade event, including costume jewellery. www.topdrawer.co.uk

22nd-24th: Scotland’s Trade Fair, Spring, SECC, GlasgowSee feature above for full story.www.scotlandstradefairs.co.uk

20th-23rd: Eclat de Mode, Porte deVersailles, ParisFeaturing around 500 fashion and fine

jewellery designers from around the world.www.bijorca.com

26th-29th: MACEF MilanoCostume jewellery, silverware and fashionaccessories are included in this home andgift show. www.macef-exhibition.com

29th-31st: AntwerpDiamond Trade Fair,Antwerp, BelgiumVisitors to this exclusive eventfor diamond buyers must

present a personal letter of invitationreceived from the fair organisers. To be considered, first register on-line. This year

invitations have been extended to buyersfrom Asia and North America, as well asEurope. www.antwerpdiamondfair.com

February5th-9th: The Jewellery Show at Spring Fair,NEC, BirminghamMajor jewellery exhibition including a newwatch sector. www.thejewelleryshow.com

10th-13th: Inhorgenta,New Munich Trade Fair CentreInternational trade fair for jewellery, watches,gemstones, pearls, silver and technology.www.inhorgenta.com

Akey date in the calendar of Scottishretailers and buyers is Scotland’s Trade

Fair 2012 which is to be held in Glasgowfrom 22nd-24th January. With over 500exhibitors across a huge range of homeware,gifts, textiles, clothing, jewellery and fashionaccessories it offers a perfect forum for buyers to browse and order from a diversemix of well-established producers to small,unique producers. Over a third of all stands will be showing jewellery and fashionaccessories with products ranging from highend to affordable fashion jewellery.

As jewellery continues to be a popularcategory it is expected that some 5,000 visitors from the UK and overseas will attend– many from galleries, gift shops, departmentstores, tourist outlets and garden centres, aswell as jewellery retailers.

The backbone ofthe fair is ShowcaseScotland with estab-lished exhibitors such as Ortak, Sheila Fleet, Wallis Hunter,Linda MacDonaldand Tartan Twist andyounger companies like Scottish Sea Glass(using re-claimed sea glass from Scottishbeaches); Highland Gems (GlastonburyFestival’s ‘Green Trader of the Year); RosaRed; Natalie Vardey and Solway Trading.

Beyond Showcase Scotland there is a largenumber of well-known, loyal manufacturers,distributors and importers all successfullyselling into the Scottish market such as NovaSilver, Seagems, Indulgence, and NewbridgeSilver. In addition, up and coming brandssuch as Jos von Arx; Chris Lewis; On a Stringand Peace of Mind will be exhibiting. Runningthrough the centre of the Show is theLaunch Gallery – a specially created area forcompanies under two years old. Here retailerscan find new products, some of which will belaunched to the trade for the first time at theshow and offer originality and innovation.This year’s Launch Gallery includes jewelleryand bags from Phemie by Emma Reid; big,bold, retro-feel jewellery by Twiggd andstained glass jewellery by Louise Nelson.

Best Product Awards will be given forproducts from each category and will be displayed in the centre of the show so thatbuyers can easily see some of the best andmost creative goods available. These will bejudged by a retailer, a journalist and MichelleCostigan, the buyer for National Trust forScotland. Last year’s jewellery winners wereBonnie Bling, Katie Cupcake, Circa 72 andPerfection of Production.

Mark Saunders, from Springboard whichorganises the fair says: “We are all aware ofthe challenging economic times for bothexhibitors and retailers. However, this show

offers an inspiring mix of products from largeand small producers which can often quicklyturn into best sellers. Housed in one exhibition hall right in the centre of Glasgow,it is ideal for buyers who want a taste ofgood quality, innovative products laid out inan easy-to-negotiate show. It is a ‘must attend’event for many jewellery retailers as someexhibitors will only exhibit at this show.”

Many retailers have commented on thequality of the stands at Scotland’s Trade Fairover the last few years. Cheryl Sievewrightfrom Woodlane in Stirlingshire said: “The showhas improved immeasurably over the yearsand I came away with a bag of orders.” JaneAtkinson from Bertie Browns in Perth said:“We found some very interesting jewellerydesigners and gained some new supplierswhich is very refreshing.” Exhibitor SheilaFleet added: “The show has a very dynamicfeel and attracts buyers from far and wide.”

Scotland’s Trade Fair, Spring – 22nd-24thJanuary 2012, SECC, Glasgow. Tel: 01877385772. www.scotlandstradefairs.co.uk Open hours: 9.30-5.30 Sunday and Monday;9.30-4.30 Tuesday. For enquiries email MarkSaunders at: [email protected]

Strong jewellery presence promisedat Scotland’s Trade Fair 2012

Tartan Twist

Highland Gems

Amber Jewellery Amber Jewellery

Diamond Dealer

VILLAMARTS LTDThe UK’s Leading Loose Diamond & Jewellery Wholesaler

We offer a complete and efficient service for all yourwholesale diamond needs at the best prices.

Visit www.villamarts.co.uk to find our daily updatedstock list of certificated diamonds.

For a quick quote or to arrange a meeting call:

020 7417 0260 / 026132-34 Greville Street, London EC1N 8TB

Diamond Dealer

Diamond JewelleryDiamond Dealer

Diamond Setters

Special Approval EnquiriesDiamond Jewellery All Styles

Leslie Donn Ltd 454 Bury Old Road, Prestwich, Manchester M25 1NL

Tel: 0161 773 0000 www.donnsjewellery.co.uk

Diamond Jewellery

CAD

Carrier Bags Computer Systems

Diamonds & Gemstones

T H E J E W E L L E R C L A S S I F I E D

DISPLAY CABINET

bqwrolex specialist

www.bqwatches.com

Call now for a FREE Quotation

020 8731 2563

We now specialise in the repair andrefurbishment of Gold Rolex Watch Bracelets

Is your Rolex watchbracelet stretchedand worn?

At BQ Watches wecan make it look

brand NEW

Repair Services

Pearls

Raw Pearls LimitedSuppliers of cultured pearls to the trade

Call us now and let usimprove your pearl sales

this Christmas!01460 281 496

www.rawpearls.comMember of the BJA. Over 30 years experience.

Pearls

Shopfitting

Titanium Jewellery

Pearl Restringing

Gemstones Jewellery Manufacturers

AGARS (est. 1946)

• The complete restringing service to the trade for over 60 years.

• Experience, quality and service at reasonable prices.

• Full insurance. All urgent repairsby return.

Call David or Stephen at Agars LtdPort Hall Mews, Dyke Road, Brighton BN1 5PBTel/fax: 01273 540330Email: [email protected] Member of the British

Jewellers’ Association

Display Illumination

• Specialist lighting manufacturer with over 20 years’ experience in the illumination of jewellery, counter and showcase displays.

• Design of bespoke lighting systems is our speciality• Experienced design team work closely to compliment and showcase

retailer’s products, branding and displays.• Wide range of LED Lighting systems available to enhance silver,

gold or diamonds.

For more details call our sales team on tel: 0161 207 3355 or visit our new website at: www.display-lighting.com

Watches

Signage

DISPLAY CABINETT H E J E W E L L E R C L A S S I F I E D

DISPLAYCABINET

T H E J E W E L L E R

� C l e a r , u n c l u t t e r e d d e s i g n� O n e u n i f o r m s i z e� O n e g r e a t v a l u e p r i c e� V o l u m e d i s c o u n t s a v a i l a b l e� F r e e a d d e s i g n s e r v i c e

Only £85 per insertion!To learn more or to make a booking

in the Jeweller display Cabinet email Neil Oakford at:

[email protected]

| Regular


How would you describe your personal style?Calm but passionate; fully committed (butalways there for the NAG); and fashionwise?– traditional!

Where is your favourite holidaydestination? Why?I don’t do holidays! I have very little time andthere are not many weeks that I have morethan a couple of days free! The closest I getis IJL and Spring Fair. I will save ‘proper’ holidays for when I retire!

Looking back at your career, what onething would you do differently if you had your time over?Chosen a quieter career!

If you could wave a magic wand andchange one thing about the jewelleryindustry, what would it be?It would have to be to bring some form ofconsistency to the diamond labs – there aretoo many stories about inconsistent gradingreports and it hurts the credibility of the jewellery industry. One thing I am very pleasedwith is the closer working relationship

between the NAG and the BJA. The ‘Voiceof the Industry’ is a powerful message.

When did you become obsessed with golf? I get accused of discussing golf all of thetime; really it is others who ask me! BeforeI became the chairman of the NAG I suggested to the Board of Directors, that weshould have a social event, such as a golfcompetition. The Board agreed, on the condition that I wouldorganise it. I didn’tplay, so thought that Ishould have a fewlessons. Since then Ihave become the‘hub’ of all that is golfwithin the jewelleryindustry, holding a database of over 150golfers. It is certainly an addictive sport!

To what do you attribute your success?Joining a long established family businesswith a great reputation. Customer care is topof our list of priorities, often taken to theextreme. A customer asked if I would mindcutting off a wedding ring for her elderlymother, but did we make ‘house calls’?

It wasn’t far out of my way so I called in. The mother was incredibly nervous andshouted out in pain… and that was before I got near her with the ring cutter! I cut the(luckily) fine ring off her hand, a quarter turnof the blade at a time, it took well over anhour – and the charge? A staggering £5… I should have been a plumber!

If not the jewellery business, what mightyour career have been?If dreaming, I suppose one of thoseobscenely-paid professional footballers; inreality, something in the exciting financialworld I suppose.

Tell us something not many peopleknow about you…I was a semi professional footballer, whenyounger and fitter (and slimmer!). I have aPADI qualification for scuba diving, andCoastal Skipper qualification for sailing.

What commitments do you have withyour local retail community?Well… chairman of the York Retail Forum;member of the York Business Forum; memberof the York Strategy Group; member of theMinster Quarter trading area committee;treasurer of Goodramgate Traders Association;committee member of Fashion City York;attendee of the NAG Yorkshire Centre meetings; regular interviewee of Radio York…

Quick fire (no deliberating)• Diamonds or coloured stones?

Diamonds• White or yellow metal? Yellow• Jewellery on men?

Definitely – it increases the market!• Delegator or control freak?

Control freak • Beatles or Rolling Stones?

Beatles – definitely!

Last WordThe

The Last Word of 2011 goes, to a man who surely needs nointroduction… but here’s one anyway: Frank Wood, golfer, man-about-town and co-owner of RA Braithwaite jewellers in York.

Personal ProfileAfter starting in commercial banking Frank ‘married into’ the jewellery tradein 1975. In 1981, following the passing of his father-in-law, Reg Braithwaite,Frank was asked if he liked the trade sufficiently to join it full time. In 1995,he and his wife Dianne took over the running of the family company. Frankwas Chairman of the NAG from 2008 to 2010, joined the Board of Directorsin 1997, was Honorary Treasurer for seven years, followed by chairman and currently deputy chairman. A Freeman of the City of London and aLiveryman of the Worshipful Company of Clockmakers, Frank also nowrepresents the NAG board on the BJA National Committee.

IDEX ONLINE DIAMONDTRADING NET WORKTHE SMARTEST WAY TO BUY AND SELL DIAMONDS

Join IDEX Online now and enjoy:

w w w . i d e x o n l i n e . c o m

Sterling Silver & Real Diamonds

BitesLoveSterling silver and real diamonds

Available January 2012

LOVE

BIT

ES 1

8CT

ROSE

GO

LD V

ERM

EIL

AND

DIA

MO

ND

PEN

DAN

T –

RRP

£65/

€75/

$105

. LO

VE B

ITES

18C

T G

OLD

VER

MEI

L AN

D D

IAM

ON

D P

END

ANT

– RR

P £5

5/€6

5/$9

0

Historic Originals, Unit A1 Worton Grange Estate, Worton Drive, Reading, RG2 0TGEmail: [email protected] Tel: 0118 975 3331 hotdiamonds.com

Documents

Jeweller Magazine December 2011