The Burgundy Portfolio’s 2013 En Primeur Offer · The Burgundy Portfolio Ltd. [email protected] 07557-796165 Domaine Jérôme Balmet, Clochemerle, Vaux-en-Beaujolais

The Burgundy Portfolio’s 2013 En Primeur Offer

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The Burgundy Portfolio Ltd. [email protected] 07557-796165

The 2013 Burgundy Vintage

One could never claim that 2013 was an easy vintage but therein lies the rub as we feel it is the measure of a grower to rise to the challenge and we feel all of the wines in this, our carefully selected offer have merit. Dame Nature was not kind from the very beginning… Spring was cold and wet and then sun poked its head out at the beginning of July and bit-by-bit the grapes ripened with a vintage of quality and quality promised. Then on the 23rd July – disaster! A horrific hailstorm cut across the Côte de Beaune. Some vineyard holdings were wiped out and for the rest quantities were greatly reduced with reports of growers tragically losing two thirds of their potential harvest and some even more! For those that wanted to get away in August it was possible and one cannot blame them for taking a break away from such devastating news and many spent as much time as in their vineyards giving their remaining remnants the best care to ensure quality in a vintage which, no longer, was to be one of quantity.

Chardonnay grapes flourished coupling refreshing acidity with an attractive level of fruit to give some very stylish wines. The oft-perceived ugly duckling of Aligoté has shone in this vintage too.

Pinot Noir took longer to come together with a battle fought for many with ripeness going hand-in-hand with a quantity rejected due to disease. But desiring quality overall won out with a lovely concentration and phenolic ripeness evident in our early tastings. Following all-important cellar work our growers have made some real stunners. Aromas beguile, latent acidities give poise and a succulent fruit charms. We have not forgotten our friends from Beaujolais and, for us, their wines are even better than our previously-favoured 2011’s – irresistible from the start but will cellar well too.

We give some preferences in red and white at all levels throughout this Offer and also offer some exciting deals that may well tempt. Much conjecture has already been made on the subject of pricing and, as before, I have encouraged our stable of growers to charge us (and our customers) what is required to continue in their thrilling work. What ’s not to like? Please do not neglect our three New Growers from south to north: Jérôme Balmet, Romain & Jean-Guillaume Chapuis and Céline & Frédéric Gueguen. Like a good football manager, we like to put new growers under the spotlight from time to time. That said testament to the quality of our “old favourites” that must always be playing to the high level required to win a place in our team Portfolio. Burgundy is made in small quantities – the wines coming historically from tiny parcels or just a few rows of vines granted by Napoleonic Law. These wines are produced by growers to only be offered to our customers within a limited window i.e. until the end of this Offer/until they sell out. We cannot carry stock of these rare wines so we will only buy based on orders received. Burgundians must be seen as farmers rather than businessmen – albeit farmers with some very expensive land and evermore-sought-after end product and when you only have one barrel (= 25 cases) of a wine for the world’s consumption inevitably this is not too difficult! We have alluded to this inherent rarity throughout this Offer and will endeavour to be fair to all that are kind enough to place an order with us. The wines (with only a very few exceptions) in this Offer are only shipped by us to the UK. We are honoured to share with you access to our exciting finds sourced following our regular visits to the Burgundy region over the past 15 years. Using personal contacts, grower-to-grower recommendations, getting our hands dirty, door-stepping and sometimes even drinking (or should that be tasting?) new discoveries alongside a hearty Lièvre à la Royale and so:

“The time has come," the Walrus said, "to talk of many things:

...sealing-wax, Of cabbages and kings,

…And whether pigs have wings."

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Contents The 2013 Burgundy Vintage ..................................................................................................................................................... i

Domaine Jérôme Balmet, Clochemerle, Vaux-en-Beaujolais ................................................................................................. 1

Domaine Benoît Trichard, Odenas ........................................................................................................................................... 1

Domaine de la Choupette, Santenay ....................................................................................................................................... 3

White Wine Selections ............................................................................................................................................................. 3

Domaine Florent Garaudet, Monthélie ................................................................................................................................... 6

Domaine Marie-Christine & Vincent Perrin, Volnay ............................................................................................................. 7

Chapuis & Chapuis, Pommard ................................................................................................................................................ 8

Chapuis & Chapuis Special Selection ...................................................................................................................................... 8

Domaine Emmanuel Giboulot, Beaune .................................................................................................................................. 9

Maison Pascal Clément, Savigny-lès-Beaune ......................................................................................................................... 9

Domaine Jean-Claude Rateau, Beaune ................................................................................................................................. 10

Domain Odile Chaudat, Corgoloin ......................................................................................................................................... 11

Chaudat’s Choices ................................................................................................................................................................... 11

Domaine Jean-Pierre Bony/Fabienne Bony, Nuits-Saint-Georges ..................................................................................... 12

Domaine Audiffred, Vosne-Romanée ................................................................................................................................... 12

Red Wine Selections ............................................................................................................................................................... 14

Domaine Odoul-Coquard, Morey-Saint-Denis ..................................................................................................................... 14

The Order of Things ............................................................................................................................................................... 16

Terms and Conditions ............................................................................................................................................................ 16

Acknowledgements ................................................................................................................................................................ 16

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Domaine Jérôme Balmet, Clochemerle, Vaux-en-Beaujolais

Jérôme is a free and charming spirit we found propping up a bar of a wine shop in urban Lyon and

is making some of the most drinkable young wine we had the good fortune to taste on our travels.

Here we can see a glimpse of the great quality of 2013 Beaujolais. I could say highly drinkable but

perhaps very moreish is an even better descriptor? Absolutely “Vins Naturels sans Intrants”.

La Côte de Vaux £140.00 per 12

Cherryade red in colour with delicate berried fruits and violets on the nose. Soft, rounded style

with a prickle of acidity giving definition. Lovely now but will keep for the mid-term with ease.

Domaine Benoît Trichard, Odenas

Pierre and Michel frères are the sons of the late Benoît and together make some of the

most exciting range of wines that we have privilege to carry. Their Moulin-à-Vent

comes in two cuvées: “L’Exception” which has a two year élevage in new oak barrels

and has a keen following whenever we are allowed more. We currently stock their 2011

vintage whilst their “Mortperay” is detailed for your delectation below. Please do not

confuse their Brouilly and Côte de Brouilly Crus. The latter is a rarity when compared

with the former…

Brouilly £115.00 per 12

Ripe griotte cherry with significant depth for this appellation that is often dismissed as a “vin de soif” but not so from

this grower!

Côte de Brouilly £120.00 per 12

From the oldest Cru vineyard of Beaujolais and a tiny 315 hectares in size versus its neighbour Brouilly’s holdings.

Real depth of flavour and significant style makes this a sensible option to cellar as we have proven with gusto for

their 2007 vintage.

Moulin-à-Vent “Mortperay” £125.00 per 12

Very fine. Rich and full-bodied effort from this cuvée that has impressive length and layers of complexity. Great

structure enhanced by its careful élevage partially in oak barrels. A find.

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Domaine Céline & Frédéric Gueguen, Préhy, Chablis

After some 15 years working for some of the most renowned domains in Chablis (including Domaines Durup & Brocard) this married couple have now founded their very own domain using vines entrusted to them and their experience shines through. In style, minerality is evident throughout coupled with a balance and poise we look from this region but have often been disappointed not to find. Saint-Bris £120.00 per 12 Since 2003 the village Saint-Bris has had the right to bottle under their own name as before then one had the mouthful of Sauvignon de Saint-Bris to play with for this is the only appellation that is allowed to and specialises in growing the Sauvignon Blanc (and Sauvignon Gris) grape. A great introduction to this unique appellation showing hints of lemon rind on the nose with a lovely rounded palate from its old vines making in whole a very charming combination. Chablis £135.00 per 12 Elegant nose of white flowers and white stone fruit coupled with some refreshing nectarine on the palate with significant zippy acidity held in reserve. Roasted white meats and river fish would be classic combinations for this taster. Chablis 1er Cru, Vaucoupin £115.00 per 6 £220.00 per 12 Explosive start with rich complex nose of peach and pear combined with a certain nuttiness. Pure, fully-formed white fruits with a real depth. Ultra-sophisticated wine with a length that goes on and on. Very exciting kit.

Domaine Nathalie & Gilles Fèvre, Fontenay-près-Chablis

As the Fèvres move into their first decade of trading; we at The Burgundy Portfolio are delighted to have prospered alongside them. Especially as they now sell to over 70 different countries worldwide! From their state-of-the-art winery run by Nathalie in a picturesque location found close by Gilles’s inherited vines we continue to see great things. Even their car park could be classified as Premier Cru Chablis… Chablis £130.00 per 12 Green/gold. Lemon and lime on the nose. On the palate some smart acidity and with a

certain richness too. Good length and all comes together at the end. Chablis 1er Cru, Fourchaume £200.00 per 12 Green/gold in colour with baked apple on the nose. Rich, rounded and with a supple, comforting style coupled with an interesting nuttiness make this one to watch. Chablis 1er Cru, Mont de Milieu £115.00 per 6 £220.00 per 12 Pale yellow. Charming aromas of white flowers. Great initial attack of acidity that broadens with white fruits evident with some heft and excellent length aptly proving their ½ hectare plot is something very special.

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Domaine de la Choupette, Santenay

The time had come. There had been much discussion after we had successfully prised some of their Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru from the clutches of rapacious negoçiants whether Puligny-Montrachet would be another string to our bow and so here it is – their debut vintage. We have also broadened our range of their red wines and although Santenay may not always grab the headlines we know well that these wines will reward any careful cellarer. Puligny-Montrachet £155.00 per 6 £300.00 per 12 Opens with a lovely fragrance of white flowers with hallmark tension. Stylish with long length. Impresses. Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru, Morgeot £195.00 per 6 £380.00 per 12 More brooding with depth and layers of complexity fanning out like a confident bridge player showing their tricks that do not even need to be played. Santenay “Vieilles Vignes” £120.00 per 6 £230.00 per 12 We don’t normally get offered this wine as it is usually snaffled by their loyal French clientele. But we had to have it! 60-70 year old vines give body and fragrance to the red fruits that charm. Santenay “Comme Dessus” £125.00 per 6 £240.00 per 12 Attractive brambly nose with all in balance. Broad strokes and medium-bodied in style. A keeper. Santenay 1er Cru, La Comme £150.00 per 6 £290.00 per 12 Summer pudding coupled with an excellent length that captivates. Many nuances that make this an enticing combination. Buy it, forget it and then enjoy it! Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru, Morgeot £155.00 per 6 £310.00 per 12 Cassis with an enhancing touch of sloe. Complexity just hangs there in the mouth saying “come and get me”. One of the reasons we love to have red Chassagne-Montrachet in our Portfolio

White Wine Selections

Chardonnay and Aligoté equally worked for us (not often we can say that!) and this year we even have a Grand Cru in

white to tempt you with too.

Bourgogne Chardonnay & Bourgogne Aligoté, Dom. Albert Joly

These were on top form and worth noting that Sylvie (Albert’s daughter) has kept her prices keen for GB. As we are

one of her favourite exporters – ahem!

Chablis 1er Cru, Vaucoupin, Domaine Céline & Fréderic Gueguen

For anyone to “join our club” they have to impress us and this wine has the makings of something very special. Their

Chablis and Saint-Bris should not be dismissed lightly either.

Montagny 1er Cru, Les Coères, Maison Pascal Clément

As ever, much to taste with Pascal and I loved this in spite of my reservations about this appellation (usually). But

don’t want to give his Pernand-Vergelesses or his brace of Savigny-les-Beaunes and Meursaults up either! What’s a

guy to do?

Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru En Remilly, Domaine Bouard-Bonnefoy

One of the most difficult choices was narrowing Fabrice’s tempting trio of 1er Crus down to “just” one but for my

desert island it would hard to resist this option.

Corton-Charlemagne, Grand Cru, Maison en Belles Lies

Not for everyone but for this taster I found this irresistible. Worked biodynamically, unfiltered and only seeing a

smidge of new oak. How it used to be.

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Domaine Bouard-Bonnefoy, Chassagne-Montrachet As we move up-country we happen upon the wines of Fabrice Bouard. This year we went to see him a little earlier than usual and came away with some tasty new appellations and a welcome return for his only barrel of Bourgogne Rouge. N.b. for his 1er Crus we find only small quantities are made so please do not wait too long before letting us know your requirements. Bourgogne Aligoté £130.00 per 12 A new wine for Fabrice to offer us and we are so glad he did! A N Others tend to dismiss this

native grape and more fool them. Raised in an old oak barrel and a smidge in stainless steel forms a tasty little number for those evenings when a thirst just needs to be slaked. Bourgogne £165.00 per 12 We see this as the “big brother” of the Aligoté. Serious, reserved but with a concentration of fruit that whispers of its origins close by “Chassagne-Montrachet proper”. For your consideration. Chassagne-Montrachet £155.00 per 6 £300.00 per 12 Village Chassagne can be a rarity as those negoçiants use their wiles to bottle under their own label. 75 cases were made for world and just as their 2011 is starting to blossom and show its white fruits and structure after careful cellaring this is one to tuck away. Chassagne -Montrachet 1er Cru, Les Macherelles £205.00 per 6 £400.00 per 12 Due east of the Village and abutting 1er Cru Chenevottes this has a richness, stylish full fruit and long length. It will be lovely to see this wine evolve over time. Chassagne -Montrachet 1er Cru, Les Chenevottes £215.00 per 6 £420.00 per 12 A racy number with Conference pear-like fruit held carefully in check by its acidity. All there but there’s not much to be had! Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru, En Remilly £225.00 per 6 £440.00 per 12 One barrel made. If you could imagine the two other 1er Crus blended and enhanced with a hint of ginger (I almost wrote Ginger Spice!) and the volume turned up you would be close to seeing the attraction of this wine. We fight for our allocation. Do not dally. Bourgogne £150.00 per 12 A welcome return for this Burgundy Portfolio staple. Half the juice was carefully placed in an old oak barrel to give roundedness whilst the remainder was reserved in a stainless steel tank. Wild strawberry fruit followed by something serious. Glad to have some more on our books. Chassagne-Montrachet “Vieilles Vignes” £125.00 per 6 £240.00 per 12 Griotte cherry. Rich roundedness. All too drinkable when the time comes…

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Maison en Belles Lies, Saint-Aubin

It is always a pleasure to meet with Pierre Fenals and see what vines he has sourced and what new and unfiltered excitements he has for our customers. We have even gained some magnums – but not many of these rarities! This year we have the welcome return of the enigmatic L’Étrange as well as his Maranges and Bourgogne Aligoté. But that is not all as he has even sourced another Grand Cru from Corton-Charlemagne - no less! This is from Le Charlemagne sector of the fabled hill and sits close by the vines of Bonneau du Martray and Coche-Dury no less – so something very special. Yes, this Corton-Charlemagne was our favourite white wine. Bourgogne Aligoté £140.00 per 12 A richer, fuller style of Aligoté with a poise that just hangs there. Surprised to see Beaune’s wine bars are already selling as their House White. Then again, they may have a point… Santenay £105.00 per 6 £200.00 per 12 MAGNUMS £115.00 per 3 For me, Mirabelle plum. That fleshiness tempered with an interesting lightning flash of acidity. Will fill out with ease. Corton-Charlemagne, Grand Cru £455.00 per 6 £900.00 per 12 Kicks off with a defining acidity. Full body with oh such complexity. Tension and then layers of interest on the back plate. Length that goes on and on and on. Old vines and just 100 cases for the world. I expect the majority will end up in Japan and Scandinavia. Stake your claim. Hautes-Côtes de Beaune “Les Châtaigniers” £190.00 per 12

MAGNUMS £110.00 per 3 Always a charmer and its tight red fruits make it especially of interest this year. Such fragrance. I see no reason to cellar but cellar it will. L’Etrange £180.00 per 12 "The Strange One". This wine has a keen following with both our on and off-Trade clients. Why? Well there is nothing else like as the Pinot Noir, Gamay and Pinot Beurot (aka Pinot Gris) all come together to make an enticing whole. I’d give another six months to knit together and then they’ll be no stopping it. Maranges £115.00 per 6 £220.00 per 12

MAGNUMS £125.00 per 3 Red and black fruits come together here on the nose and Pierre gives some polish to a Village that can oft be dismissed as “rustic”. Not the case here! Globs of fruit on the palate. Like this a lot! Aloxe-Corton “Les Caillettes” £170.00 per 6 £330.00 per 12 Understated in its elegance. Could come out with metaphors involving Savile Row tailoring but easier and probably best to think about its roundedness, lovely fruiting and bright future. A complete wine with dash. Corton-Perrières, Grand Cru £320.00 per 6 £630.00 per 12 Reticent “but not for drinking tomorrow!” Whole bunch fruit lifts the whole giving detail to the tannic structure. On the back palate opens up with a sensation of carefully poised complexity like a boulder about to roll down a hill. We can see proper potential here.

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Domaine Albert Joly, Puligny-Montrachet

There is never much made at this estate and their fame is spreading as far as China now too! But we were there first and so have the lion’s share to offer. “Quality” is definitely a watchword here with each parcel being tended with TLC by Sylvie and her brother-in-law and that has been enhanced further by racking and bottling by the lunar calendar. It is evident that their Bourgogne vines neighbour Puligny-Montrachet proper whilst counter-intuitively the vines of Puligny-Montrachet “Les Charmes” border Meursault 1er Cru, Les Charmes (see Pascal Clement’s effort later) but you could not find two more different wines! Bourgogne Aligoté £120.00 per 12

No surprises here - another winner. Good length, honest wine. Some surprising depth too. Bourgogne Chardonnay £170.00 per 12 Rounded with a touch of creaminess. Very fresh and elegant now but give it a couple of years… Puligny-Montrachet "Les Tremblots" £180.00 per 6 £350.00 per 12 From the Chassagne-Montrachet side of Puligny this shows an intense more masculine style. Layers of fruit and acidity will combine to bring forth an attractive number. Puligny-Montrachet "Les Charmes" £225.00 per 6 £440.00 per 12 More oak evident on the nose initially in its infancy. Followed up by broad strokes of preserved lemon and a whiff of the baker’s shop. Finesse on the palate combined with a richness that for us are indicative of 1er Cru status. A steal!

Domaine Florent Garaudet, Monthélie

Things go from strength to strength for Florent with him being named as "One to Watch" by Tim Atkin M.W. at last year’s En Primeur tastings. His quantities have been decimated (many times!) by hail but Florent remains resolute. All is not straightforward for a young vigneron but his wines do tick the boxes with him bringing in "Guide Hachette" and our expanding off-trade client list. Bourgogne £165.00 per 12 A mini-Meursault. Last year we sold out our holdings quickly after release. Rounded and full with citrus hints. Monthelie “Sous le Cellier” £140.00 per 6 £270.00 per 12 Bigger, fuller and something special indeed to find in white. Florent continues to master his holdings here making a wine that speaks lightly of its humble origins. Meursault £170.00 per 6 £330.00 per 12 Now this has some depth! Hallmark rich style with a touch of spice gives a compelling whole. Arguably has 1er Cru pretensions. One to watch indeed! Puligny-Montrachet £180.00 per 6 £350.00 per 12 A bit reduced initially but given some air fills out. Pretty wine with delicate white flowers giving interest. Keeps on going. Some skill here.

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Monthélie £115.00 per 6 £220.00 per 12 Deep nose of red wine poaching liquor. Raspberry fruit with a softness and acidity that is attractive now and when those tannins integrate we will have a nice little number. Monthélie 1er Cru, Les Champs Fuillots £145.00 per 6 £280.00 per 12 More black berried fruits and spice here. Rich yet reserved depth with a roundedness for the patient. Keeps on truckin’… Monthélie 1er Cru, La Taupine £150.00 per 6 £290.00 per 12 Lovely style. I like this for its upper register of bold red fruits. Not a hint of rusticity and careful sorting give a wine that has medium body and a lushness that attracts. Monthélie 1er Cru, Les Mons Hélios £230.00 per 6 £450.00 per 12 No missing the quality here for “just” a Village wine! Tiny yields, expert élevage in a special wood and TLC combine to give a very special effort. So much brooding depth but wholly balanced. Unique.

Domaine Marie-Christine & Vincent Perrin, Volnay

We have convinced Vincent to include his 2013 Meursault “En L’Ormeau” after we sold out on successive offers enviable cellars stocks of both his 2010 and 2008 vintages in quick succession. Of note is that Vincent has been experimenting with using fewer chemicals in his wine-making and we were impressed by the silky smoothness that he has coaxed from his wines. A Draconian sorting and refrigerated vans both had their part to play. A perennial favourite on top form and, as ever, his prices are more than fair, dare I whisper “bargainous”? Saint-Romain "Combe Bazin" £105.00 per 6 £200.00 per 12

Elegant style with white fruits and style. Fills out in the glass. Meursault “En l’Ormeau” £145.00 per 6 £280.00 per 12 70 year old vines give a certain nuttiness and richness. Long length. A wine that does exactly what it should. Bourgogne £170.00 per 12 Soft and supple fruits with a hint of berried acidity adding class. Mini-Volnay. Volnay “Cuvée Marie” £130.00 per 6 £250.00 per 12 Violet nose. Depth and style with silky texture. Vincent’s dialling down of sulphur throughout this range preserves even more pretty fruit here than usual. Bravo! Pommard “Chanlains” £155.00 per 6 £300.00 per 12 Rich, full with stunning black cherry fruit. Suave and sophisticated. Plush. Hints of bitter chocolate. Volnay 1er Cru, Sous la Carelle de la Chapelle £195.00 per 6 £380.00 per 12 Highly perfumed cherry fruit on nose. Complexity with broad velvety strokes on the palate. The whole is opulently rounded with an excellent length. Volnay 1er Cru, Les Gigottes, Monopole £205.00 per 6 £400.00 per 12 Wild woodland strawberries with palate so finely tuned and compelling in its intensity. Comes to a crescendo and then tails off with a “wow”. Something very special here.

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Chapuis & Chapuis, Pommard

Many will know my comments about meeting a grower for the first time is a little like a blind date in both of you have an interest but unsure of where you will end! Perhaps this was more of an arranged marriage as we were introduced by Romain’s cousin: Lolo. Lolo runs an enviable wine bar in Beaune and well as being a fine refuge from Beaune’s fleshpots; it is somewhere to indulge in Vins d’Autres Regions… But on meeting Romain (the other Chapuis is his brother Jean-Guillaume: a lawyer) an oenologue and flying winemaker we felt at home. Each of the wines adds something to our Portfolio and we look forward to a long-term relationship with this grower very much on the up. Côte-de-Nuits Villages “Les Chaillots” £110.00 per 6 £210.00 per 12 An eye-opener as what can be done with low yields as for us equal to a Village level from the Côte de Nuit. Smoked meat. Gentle spice. Stylish stuff. Pernand-Vergelesses “Les Belles Filles” £125.00 per 6 £240.00 per 12 Ruby red. Very generous forest fruit with a significant depth and polish. Real panache! Chorey-lès-Beaune “Les Bons Ores” £115.00 per 6 £220.00 per 12 Lovely cherry fruit on the nose. More savoury on the palate but with speckles of vibrant red and black fruits and a fleshiness that impresses. Is this really “just” Chorey?! Mercurey 1er Cru, Clos l’Evêque £130.00 per 6 £250.00 per 12 Most serious yet. Deep, dark fruits but then again that high gloss finish like a Guardsman’s boot. This has a superabundant style with globs of fruit that demands further examination. Will cellar exceptionally well or be broached before time with impunity…

Chapuis & Chapuis Special Selection

We greatly admired all of our wines from this dynamic discovery but are well aware that those that did not come to

our tasting might need a little bit more convincing and so, after due consideration a very Special Offer has been

proposed on their En Primeur Pricing viz:

1 x 6 bottle case of each of their four wines would normally be £480.00 I.B.

Special Selection price = £445.00

1 x 12 bottle case of each of their four wines would normally be £920.00 I.B.

Special Selection price = £830.00

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Domaine Emmanuel Giboulot, Beaune

The legal challenges of Emmanuel v. French bureaucracy have been catalogued elsewhere –

even appearing on The Guardian’s front page! We are delighted of his victory for common sense

and biodynamics and even more delighted to be able to offer the wines below. Some are new to

us as we work on getting the very best from this prime and tiny domain. Quantities, as ever, are

small but if you have interest there is availability for all comers - at time of writing!

Côte de Beaune “Combe d’Eve” £190.00 per 6 £370.00 per 12

Restrained nose and body too. Hints of citrus. But then the spring uncoils and we see the

sweeping tension of this speciality wine. Stylish with richness. A velvet smoking jacket?

Rully 1er Cru, La Pucelle £200.00 per 6 £390.00 per 12

Pith, rind and flesh of a lemon on the attack but the plate more finely tuned with stone fruits and dash of acidity

giving such definition. Rully by way of Puligny-Montrachet? Compelling.

Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes-de-Nuits “Sous le Mont” £115.00 per 6 £220.00 per 12

Vibrant red fruit on the nose that gently beckons in a come-hither fashion building to a luscious full-bodied palate.

Yum!

Saint-Romain “ En Chevrot” £140.00 per 6 £270.00 per 12

Pretty wine. Super depth and poise with a precision that can be ignored. Emmanuel gets lots of Press for this whites

but these reds are real beauty-show winners in this vintage especially.

Beaune “Lulune” £175.00 per 6 £340.00 per 12

Refreshing red fruits on the nose and when combined with a prickle of tannin and the acidity we love in this Village

makes a wine of complexity and unforgettable but carefully balanced concentration. Our equal largest allocation

and even that’s not much for the thirsty!

Maison Pascal Clément, Savigny-lès-Beaune

Pascal is perhaps the most cheekily confident of our growers but as we work ever closer we cannot but admire his handiwork. It is a little like going to an old-fashioned sweet shop with such a plethora of choices. There are even four red wines but we are very happy indeed with our barrel of Savigny 1er Cru, Aux Gravains where its stony soil brings forth quality. You could think that this is a Meursault masterclass (following his training at Coche-Dury) but our heart is close to his ever-popular Pernand-Vergelesses (from the non 1er Cru part of Combottes), for everyday drinking. From the off it is hard to beat his Bourgogne “Fût” and we were so impressed by his Montagny 1er Cru and Savigny-les-Beaune Blanc we could not resist! Well, you know I don’t like to have favourites! Bourgogne "Fût" £150.00 per 12 Oak-aged and showing it! But given time (as seen when re-tasted on the 13th January) evolves into a pleasant style that pleases the pocket book and the palate. Montagny 1er Cru, Les Coères £105.00 per 6 £200.00 per 12 Our first Montagny 1er Cru! Oh, we had been disappointed with other’s efforts in the past and now here was something we wanted! Has all you want from white Burgundy without the outlay. Yes, there are still some bargains to be had from the Côte Chalonnaise. Savigny-lès-Beaune “Dessus de Vermots” £110.00 per 6 £210.00 per 12 Now this was interesting… Has a freshness and weight that entranced. White fruits and a touch of spice make a great addition to our fold. Glib to say but sometimes the most “everyday” appellations have to shout louder. Unmissable.

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Pernand-Vergelesses "Les Combottes" £125.00 per 6 £240.00 per 12 Touch of intriguing apricot fruit on the nose. Then hallmark nuttiness comes through on the taut palate that begs to be savoured over the longer term. Mini-Corton? Perhaps more a showpiece Pernand-Vergelesses and none the worse for that! Saint-Aubin 1er Cru, Le Charmois £160.00 per 6 £310.00 per 12 Not just any old "overdiscovered" Saint-Aubin that seem to be yesterday’s news for many; this is pitch perfect and sings of its especial origins close by Chassagne-Montrachet. Meursault “Aux Grands Charrons” £205.00 per 6 £400.00 per 12 Big and rich and hints of hazelnut too. Meursault can be a difficult master but Pascal’s experience brings forth a fine tune. With time will show that buttery style that no other Village replicates. Meursault, 1er Cru, Les Charmes £355.00 per 6 £700.00 per 12 If Meursault had a Grand Cru perhaps Les Charmes would be one in contention so this wine needs little introduction! This is has it all with a potency that just demands your attention. There is some balance here amongst the full richness. One for the cellar. No rush! Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Cru, Aux Gravains £140.00 per 6 £270.00 per 12 One barrel of this made and we are delighted with our allocation. It is 1er Cru for a reason and is redolent of ripe blackcurrant fruits. Sometimes only a Savigny will do the trick.

Domaine Jean-Claude Rateau, Beaune

Much has been made of Jean-Claude’s moustache but we prefer to concentrate on his biodynamic wines! These were very much “on song” and not only have we expanded our selection to encompass another Beaune (at Village level) but also his family’s holdings in Gevrey-Chambertin which farming must keep him very busy whizzing up and down the RN74 when he is not in Alsace… Beaune 1er Cru, Les Coucherias £165.00 per 6 £320.00 per 12

Laser beam-focussed Granny Smith here with a certain crispness that fills out to a measured whole. Very much a "drink or keep" kind of wine. But so hard to resist when initially tasted. Beaune “Les Beaux et Bons” £125.00 per 6 £240.00 per 12 Bit closed on the nose - well it is a chilly cellar! Then on the palate we see Jean-Claude’s deft touch. Long length with redcurrant fruits coming together to a mellow whole. Beaune “Les Prévoles” £135.00 per 6 £260.00 per 12 Very feminine and elegant. Lithe and finely tuned. A new one for us but we just had to have it. She’s a keeper! Beaune 1er Cru, Les Reversées £160.00 per 6 £310.00 per 12 Oh so balanced. Very smooth and mellow. Excellent length with broad brushstrokes of griotte cherry fruit and a certain sweetness. Think I will have mine with poached wild salmon. Gevrey-Chambertin £155.00 per 6 £300.00 per 12 Another new addition for us as we work ever closer with this safe pair of hands. From an intriguing parcel just below the Grand Cru of Le Chambertin. Sweet fruit, complexity and a hint of liquorice we like in our Gevrey-Chambertins. A find.

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Domain Odile Chaudat, Corgoloin

The kind of wines you cannot help but like albeit not from the most "sexy" of appellations but, perhaps, therein lie the Holy Grail of "value"? We had high expectations for Odile’s wines after her best-selling 2012’s and these did not disappoint. Stunning style, will cellar like a dream and another Burgundy Portfolio exclusive! Côtes-de-Nuits Villages £110.00 per 6 £210.00 per 12 Two barrels made. Depth and a polish make this an essential addition this year. Supple, rounded with full black fruits and spice make it an ideal addition to our “lunchtime Burgundy” selections. I am sure Madame Chaudat often wonders what our GB customers think of her wines as we are her only exporter but she hides it very well! Ladoix “les Champs Pusset” £115.00 per 6 £220.00 per 12 Two and two-thirds barrels here! Such delicacy and complexity too. Arguably riper strawberry fruits in more profusion to her CdN. Lovely long length. Why not have both?

Chaudat’s Choices

Madame Odile suggested we should support both of her red wines after having a veritable success with her Ladoix in

2012 and, upon tasting them, it was really not a burden! Tellingly at our En Primeur Tasting even Sebastien raised an

eyebrow at their attractive qualities and so our pencil has been especially sharpened as below:

1 x 6 bottle case of each of her two 2013 wines would normally be £225.00 I.B.

Chaudat’s Choices price = £210.00

1 x 12 bottle case of each of her 2013 wines would normally be £430.00 I.B.

Chaudat’s Choices price = £390.00

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Domaine Jean-Pierre Bony/Fabienne Bony, Nuits-Saint-Georges

A word or two of explanation re: why/what is Fabienne Bony? Fabienne is the first lady in

charge of the family estate and modestly uses her father’s name over the door. From all

appearances her forefathers were busy men and the story why their vines in “Damodes”

were not given 1er Cru status like all their neighbours continues to be a source of wonder…

She has big ideas and through sensible use of her negoçiant card a.k.a. Fabienne Bony has

expanded their holdings now into two Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Crus: Pruliers (for red) and

from this year onwards: Les Terres Blanches (for white). Only 2 barrels are made of each –

so that’s 50 cases for the world. Please form an orderly queue!

Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru, Les Terres Blanches £215.00 per 6 £420.00 per 12

Fabienne’s debut vintage of this special blend of 50% Chardonnay and 50% Pinot Blanc. We have only 48 bottles of

this nectar. Enchanting hints of spice with rounded ripe fruits make a scintillating number that will give pleasure in

the mid to longer term.

Nuits-Saint-Georges £135.00 per 6 £260.00 per 12

Good heft but not too heavy. Good fruit but not over-extracted. Good style but not flashy. “Everyday” Nuits-Saint-

Georges?

Nuits-Saint-Georges “Les Damodes” £150.00 per 6 £290.00 per 12

Now this wine has its followers and it is not secret that this comes from Les Damodes where only a part is not

classified as 1er Cru. So, in short, their loss is our gain! Grown up style with blackberry fruits abounding and a

lovely rich, smooth finish.

Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru, Les Pruliers £205.00 per 6 £400.00 per 12

Now this has some layers! Red and black fleshy fruits. More concentration with time in cellar demanded to evolve

its tannins but when all those nuances knit together we will have something special. Serious kit.

Crémant de Bourgogne N.V. £135.00 per 12

A staple for many customers as they tend to agree with us that a good Crémant is significantly better than an

average to poor Champagne! Rich in Pinot Noir with good bottle age this has the rich creaminess (geddit?) that we

look for in our fizzes and you wholly deserve.

Domaine Audiffred, Vosne-Romanée

It was with a bit of trepidation that we ventured to see Henri as he had gravely told us there

would be no red or white Beaune for us from the 2014 vintage due to hail sadly wiping out

his holdings. These are personal favourites and one could not really help as to wonder as to

the quality of his 2013 vintage and we were not disappointed! Across the board great

typicity is shown here. Each in turn shows enticing qualities that make Burgundy our

privilege and honour to work alongside. We have an established client base for these wines

and would ask you to respect “la pyramide” when casting your hat in the ring for his show-

stopping Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru, Aux Reignots. Yes indeed, this wine was this writer’s

favourite red.

Beaune “Chaume Gaufriot” £155.00 per £300.00 per 12 Intriguing white wine. Touches of herbaceousness on the nose with acacia honey too. Très gastronomique. Real depth and so much in store for the lucky cellarer.

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Bourgogne £170.00 per 12

Henri thought this (and his other reds) were comparable to his 2010 vintage with a little more richness. This was exciting news for us! Here where his vines border Vosne-Romanée proper we begin to get a sense of the velvety texture and richness that draws so many to this cult Village. Heady stuff.

Beaune “Chaume Gaufriot” £150.00 per 6 £290.00 per 12

Already starting to show why this is such a special wine. Lovely mid-palate of fruits of the forest coupled with significant depth. Not a 1er cru but perhaps in the hands of a master?

Morey-Saint-Denis £165.00 per 6 £320.00 per 12

Wild strawberry with a superbly polished palate. Morey-Saint-Denis is often seen the Cinderella to its “Ugly Sister” neighbours of Chambolle-Musigny and Gevrey-Chambertin but in 2013 we feel it showing its majesty. With the news that LVMH have bought the renowned estate of Clos des Lambrays perhaps now is the time for this Village’s star to shine even more brightly? Great value here.

Gevrey-Chambertin “Les Marchais” £195.00 per 6 £380.00 per 12

We love liquorice on our Gevrey-Chambertin and this has the expression we seek. There is also some smoked meat (sign of a great Pinot Noir © Yves Darviot) and some lovely red fruit too. Excellent. Sadly only one barrel was made.

Nuits-Saint-Georges “Les Argillats” £205.00 per 6 £400.00 per 12

With an unusual sandy and clay terroir this wine has a lightness of touch and well as a supple roundedness which when coupled to its black fruits makes a very special wine that will cellar with ease and has so much excitement in store.

Aloxe-Corton “Les Valozières” £215.00 per 6 £410.00 per 12

This was stunning and notable as comes from the part of this notable vineyard that is not classified as 1er Cru. Hmmm bit of a theme here! A showy wine that really sang for us this year and, even better, we managed to gain access to stocks. Aloxe-Corton is often misunderstood but this rich full-bodied example shows why the French can get so excited about this appellation!

Vosne-Romanée £205.00 per 6 £400.00 per 12

A blend of Henri’s smaller parcels of the eponymous Village. Velvety? Yes. Rich perfumed nose. Yes. Iron fist subtly there for an exciting future? Yes.

Vosne-Romanée “Aux Champs Perdrix” £235.00 per 6 £460.00 per 12

This vineyard borders the monopole of La Tache and is keenly sought after for its richness and complexity that is easily of 1er Cru status. But there is an elusive style too from Henri’s careful ministrations with a subtle spicing and complementary tannins. All very exciting before…

Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru, Aux Reignots £205.00 per 3 £400.00 per 6

Intense colour. Crême de cassis nose. Such concentration here – more like an essence than a wine! Coats the inside of the mouth and then just hangs there providing an incredibly long finish of explosive black and red fruits and that’s from his only barrel. We are lucky enough to receive twenty-four bottles of this exceptional wine and allocate in special three bottle cases to those that show the minimum support of two other wines from Henri’s very special domain. This year with the thrilling line-up above that really should not be a problem at all!

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Red Wine Selections Pinot Noir and Gamay were both of keen interest to us this year:

Côte de Brouilly, Domaine Benoît Trichard

Irresistible and if I had to pick just one this enviable domaine: this would be it. Their Moulin-à-Vent “Mortperay” was

a stunner too as was their richer style of Brouilly.

Pernand-Vergelesses “Les Belles Filles”, Chapuis & Chapuis

I loved all of their wines and there is a Special Offer for those that would like to stock up. But their use of terroir here

especially charmed me.

Volnay 1er Cru Les Gigottes, Monopole, Domaine Marie-Christine & Vincent Perrin

A monopoly is only farmed by one grower and Vincent is a superb custodian of his 2.93 hectares here.

Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Aux Reignots, Domaine Audiffred

This was a real stunner and if you would like access to at least three bottles i.e. 1% of the total made please let me know

soonest.

Clos de Vougeot, Grand Cru, Domaine Odoul-Coquard

Yes, their Charmes-Chambertin not be neglected in the cellar of serious follower of this domaine but this exceptional

wine will also be found in my own cellar!

Domaine Odoul-Coquard, Morey-Saint-Denis

A grower we are proud to have been working with from "way back when" when we were

introduced by a French lady customer. Such loyalty is aptly rewarded when we can offer

access to his Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru, Les Baudes and Morey-Saint-Denis "Aux

Cheseaux" and once again, the very first wine The Burgundy Portfolio imported:

Bourgogne Passetoutgrains sometimes known as ACC’s house red. Yes, Sebastien has now

been wholly discovered by the world away from his sleepy Village but, no doubt, his range

of wines "impress me much". With fulsome apologies to Shania…

Bourgogne Passetoutgrains £100.00 per 12

For the first time this has been placed in aged François Frères barrels as well as stainless steel tank by Sebastien and

its quality shows. Careful blend of 1/3 Pinot Noir and 2/3 Gamay. We have only 10 cases so if you are usually buy

one you may want a brace?

Bourgogne £165.00 per 12

This wine is already a cellar staple for many its quality. One should not need reminding that we at The Burgundy

Portfolio see generic wines aka Bourgognes as a way to keep happy whilst waiting for a grower’s 1er and Grand

Crus to mature and they have the advantage of being excellent value too!

Gevrey-Chambertin £165.00 per 6 £320.00 per 12

Pretty red fruit. Liquorice. Style of something more serious? Silky smooth too. We liked this a lot but then there is

their 1er Cru Aux Combottes…

Morey-St-Denis “Aux Cheseaux” £165.00 per 6 £320.00 per 12

A wine for gourmands. As aforementioned, sometimes Morey-Saint-Denis can be lost in the noise but this drew our

attention and after a bit of banter managed to secure a stunning parcel for GB.

Chambolle-Musigny £175.00 per 6 £340.00 per 12

A richer style of Chambolle-Musigny with its black fruit and spice enticing from the off. The exciting thing will be to

cellar alongside his 1er Cru Baudes but I will let you make your own decisions here.

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Morey-St-Denis 1er Cru, Clos la Riotte £275.00 per 6 £540.00 per 12

The Odoul-Coquard family farm this vineyard for the eponymous Village’s celebrations so their burden is notable!

They also take two thirds of the harvest for their troubles. What’s it like? Rich, full and all-too-drinkable. There is a

concentration that stops one in its tracks and real pride in their work is all too evident.

Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru, Aux Combottes £280.00 per 6 £550.00 per 12

A Bonne Maman bramble jelly would be an interesting comparison here – it was made! Ruby red in colour with a

super concentration. This has real charm (psychosomatic link with their Charmes-Chambertin, Grand Cru below?)

and is another Ferry-like smoothie.

Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru, Les Baudes £295.00 per 6 £580.00 per 12

We can be proprietorial with our finds and Sebastien knows how we love this wine that we have bought when ‘ere

we are able. Griotte compote would be the signature fruit here and such polish on the finish but, then again, pas de

surprise for this neighbour of Bonnes-Mares, Grand Cru. This charming man (with apologies to The Smiths).

Charmes-Chambertin, Grand Cru £370.00 per 6 £730.00 per 12

Garnet red. Enticing heady perfume. Gently spiced black berried fruits with a length that carries you down the hill

to the RN74 and then back up again! Super class from Sebastien here from his tiny 0.17 hectare holding. Wild

raspberries evident in its youth. The future? Well let’s see in a decade’s time…

Clos de Vougeot, Grand Cru £395.00 per 6 £780.00 per 12

Darkly fascinating. Sloes showing on the nose and, for us, a touch of Dairy Milk on the palate with ample black

fruits combined with immense power kept in reserve just like Robin Masters’s sleek and debonair hounds. It would

be infanticide to broach before its tenth birthday. I think I’ll be keeping some for my far-off 60th birthday

celebrations instead.

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The Order of Things

We at The Burgundy Portfolio feel that the very best indicator of the quality of a wine is the grower e.g. you can have

inherited a Grand Cru plot but still make poor quality wine! But we do not work with such growers and so will not

name names! Instead we prefer to source from our growers of quality that make a wine that often outclasses its

humble appellation e.g. Vincent Perrin’s Bourgogne Rouge is as good as others that sell as Volnay close by, Pascal

Clement’s Pernand-Vergelesses “Les Combottes” is as good as others’ 1er Crus and Sebastien Odoul-Coquard’s

Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru, Les Baudes is of Grand Cru quality. To name but a few…

There are four levels of AOC (Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée): Regional (e.g. Bourgogne Rouge) = 54% of AOC;

Village (e.g. Beaune “Chaume Gaufriot”) = 34% of AOC 1er Cru (e.g. Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Les Terres Blanches)

= 10% of AOC and Grand Cru (e.g. Clos de Vougeot) = 1.5% of AOC.

This is “la pyramide” alluded to and, as ever, our growers encourage us to remind our customers to support a selection

of their wines and not just to “cherry pick” their rarest and most sought-after appellations. For if you would like a

grower’s very “top” wine in your personal cellar; rest assured you will not be the only one and so to show a breadth of

interest in all of their work is only fair!

Our thoughts on drinking dates and the scoring of points: when a wine is “ready to drink” is a personal view and

decanting and likewise, any food or company(!) served alongside can affect one’s judgement. So, we do not project

drinking dates as see them as a moveable feast. That said if you are stocking up for a special occasion or cellar, please

do feel free to ask our views on drinkability. We also leave the assorted critics to score a wine on points and humbly

suggest we have tried to select the very “best” for you, dear customer.

Terms and Conditions

All prices for our Burgundy En Primeur 2013 Offer are quoted In Bond lying in EHD. All wines are offered in 75cl

bottles unless otherwise specified. Yes, there are a few covetable magnums available. Customers who decide to have

their wine, on landing, delivered out of this bond to a preferred address and will be required to pay Duty and VAT at

the prevailing rates on release (at time of writing: £24.60 per 12-bottle case and 20% respectively for still wines) and

delivery at cost. Customers can also have their wine transferred to another bonded account and will have delivery

charged at cost.

All orders will be confirmed subject to demand, stocks remaining and sometimes based on support of a domain’s range

of wines. If you have any specific requests or queries please do let us know soonest, especially in this vintage, as we

would like to help if at all possible. Sometimes we (and growers too!) do make mistakes.

Payment must be made on receipt of invoice in order to ensure allocation. If we do not receive settlement within 28

days of said invoice we reserve the right to re-allocate your order for these very special wines available in limited

quantities. We accept payment can be made by cheque (payable to The Burgundy Portfolio Limited) or by

BACS/CHAPS to our company bank account. Our Bank details will be seen at the bottom of your invoice.

Acknowledgements

For this, our latest Burgundy En Primeur Offer it is only right and proper that we thank those that have helped in its

construction: Isabelle Partridge Keane has helped make sense of my ramblings and create the look. Pictures have been

taken by Doctor Webb and Messrs. Desmier, Hampden-White and even by the Luddite himself with his trusty mure

and even sometimes garnered from the growers' websites (where they exist). Props to MM Morgan, Dupont and

Metayer for their expert chauffeuring too.

Many others have been supportive too in coming with me into chilly cellars, not correcting my stream of consciousness

French and acting as straight men when my English sense of humour malfunctions. It really does not need to be said

but, as ever, our Portfolio of growers have been most generous with their time and patience with our burgeoning

business. We look forward to seeing their fame grow on this side of La Manche.

AWCC

This Offer will close on Sunday 1st March 2015. Many of our wines offered will sadly sell out long before this date. E&OE

Copyright The Burgundy Portfolio Ltd. 2015

Documents

The Burgundy Portfolio’s 2013 En Primeur Offer · The Burgundy Portfolio Ltd. [email protected] 07557-796165 Domaine Jérôme Balmet, Clochemerle, Vaux-en-Beaujolais