Babc burgundy seminar_slide_share_2015

BURGUNDYFROM NORTH TO SOUTH

with:

William Fevre, Bouchard Pere & Fils, and Villa Ponciago

PARIS

Beaune

Lyon

ChablisCHABLIS REGION

CÔTE DE NUITS

CÔTEDE BEAUNE

CÔTECHALONNAISE

CÔTEMÂCONNAISE

Dijon

Chablis

Beaune

Burgundy and its five vineyardsBurgundy

BURGUNDY

• Continental Climate

• Northern Latitude

• High rainfall

• Susceptible to hailstorms

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THE MONKS 6th century: Grégoire de Tours (538-594), bishop and historian, compared the quality of the wines from the slopes to the west of Dijon to Falernum (a wine famous in Antiquity).7th century: Emergence of the monasteries.8th century: Charlemagne encouraged the establishment of the monasteries through gifts of vineyards, resulting in the emergence of state-of-the-art viticultural work.12th century: The cistercian monks were searching for perfection: beginning of the construction of the Clos de Vougeot and its winery, the most modern in the world.

THE POWERFUL14th century: The Dukes of Burgundy put fear into the kings of France and the princes of Europe, the wines of Beaune were served at the official court dinners.1395: Ordinance of Philippe le Hardi which banished the Gamay grape variety from the Beaune region in favour of Pinot Noir, and which prohibited the use of manures prejudicial to the quality of the wines.15th century: first official recognition of viticultural Burgundy:1416: Decree of King Charles VI "The wines called Wines of Burgundy are those produced above the Pont de Sens, as well as those in the Pays de l'Auxerrois and the Pays de Beaune."

THE OBSERVERS16th century: Olivier de Serres - agronomist (1539-1619): notes in 1660 that "the climate, soil and grape variety are the foundation of the vineyard".

18th century: Abbot Tainturier in 1763, then Dom Denise, demonstrated the role of the natural milieu and terroir.

Dismantling of the Clos following the French Revolution.Emergence in the 19th century of a commercial bourgeoisie that developed the wine trade in France and abroad, relying on the reputation of certain established named parcels.

1831 with Doctor Morelot, 1855 with Doctor Lavalle:birth of the wine hierarchy as a result of their observations.

1861: First official classification of the wines from every region of the Côte-d'Or.

Gradual setting up of the appellations contrôlées during the 1930s - the continuation of this long work of observation.

THIS SYSTEM IS STILL IN PLACE TODAY

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TODAY

2015: Burgundy (Côte d’Or) named a UNESCO World Heritage site.2013: Burgundy suffers a string of low yielding vintages: 2010-2013. 2011: New appellation Coteaux Bourguignons announced, includes entire region (with Beaujolais) allows for wines to be made from 1 or more of any of the authorized varieties: Aligoté, Chardonnay, Melon, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris for whites; for reds, the principal varieties are Gamay, Pinot Noir.2010: One of smallest harvests on record since 1997, also one of the highest quality.

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A proliferation of terroirsOriginality of the vineyard

Terroirs exist thanks to the combination of several natural and human elements in a given geographical location

A TERROIR= AN APPELLATION

= A WINECLIMATE

VINE SOIL

NATURE

TOPOGRAPHYMAN

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Competitive Set

THE TERROIR : THE LAND IN BURGUNDY

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THE TERROIR : THE PLACE IN BURGUNDY

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CLAY, FOR STRUCTURE AND POWER.LIMESTONE, FOR FINESSE AND ELEGANCE.

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CHABLIS: WILLIAM FÈVRE

History of the vineyards

• The history of wine-making in Chablis goes back to 865 AD with the development of vineyards by the monks of Saint-Martin-de-Tours on slopes facing the Serein River that cuts through that village.

• At that time and for the centuries that followed, the Chablis wine trade grew substantially thanks to the waterways that made it possible to supply Paris from Auxerre.

• With the French Revolution, estates changed hands but remained successful, and the total vineyard surface area reached 38,000 hectares.

• The end of the 19th century saw the coming of phylloxera in 1887, which wreaked havoc and reduced the vineyards to almost nothing.

• It was only at the beginning of the 1950s, when the Chablis vineyard surface area was less than 400 hectares, that Chablis wine production took off again with the growth of mechanization and setting up of anti-frost systems (another plague for the wines of the region).

• The current productive vineyard surface area is 4,580 hectares.

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Appellations

CHABLISGRAND CRU

CHABLISPREMIER CRU

CHABLIS

PETIT CHABLIS

CHABLIS

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Originality of vineyards

- A semi-continental climactic zone marked by strong temperature fluctuations- the marriage between Chardonnay, (one of the most noble of all grape varieties), and the Kimmeridgian subsoil, • Kimmeridgian : thin marly limestone containing shellfish

fossils (esp. exogyra virgula)• Soil : mixture of the weathered sub-soil and fragments of

Portlandian hard limestone• A unique formation perfectly suited to the Chardonnay

grape• Marl brings power and fruit and the limestone, finesse

and minerality

.

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Viticulture & Vinfication

- Vines mostly trained to double Guyot.- There is some mechanical harvesting (not at WILLIAM FÈVRE).- Vinfication is predominantly stainless steel, generally less oaked than Cote d’Or wines. The proportion of oak use generally increases as you move up the quality spectrum.-Chablis musts have to be fermented in the commune of Chablis only.-Wines Produced in Chablis AC:

• St. Bris (Sauvignon Blanc) • Irancy (red)• Petit Chablis• Chablis• Chablis Premier Cru• Chablis Grand Cru

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• Founded in 1959 by William Fevre, the estate was purchased by Maisons & Domaines Henriot in 1998.

• 51 hectares of William Fevre’s estate has been farmed organically since 2006, with the balance 27ha of new vineyards acquired in early 2015 undergoing organic conversion.

• William Fevre owns 15.9 hectares of Premier Cru vineyards and the largest array of Grands Crus (15.2 hectares) vineyards in Chablis.

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• Located on “historical” terroirs, dating from before the extension of the vineyard areas that occurred in the 1970’s, the William Fevre Domaine is at the very heart of the Chablis vineyards.

• The Grands Crus are the pinnacle of Chablis production. Spread out over only 100 hectares, from a single hillside, there are 7 Grands Crus: Les Clos, Les Preuses, Vaudésir, Valmur, Bougros, Grenouilles and Blanchot. William Fevre produces these seven Chablis Grands Crus that illustrate all the Domaine’s know-how, with purity, intensity, and aromatic delicacy.


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TASTING CHABLIS: WILLIAM FÈVRE

Appellation: AC Chablis Premier CruFermentation: pressing of the grapes in a pneumatic press, settling of the juice. Alcoholic fermentation : 40 to 50% in 4 to 5 years old French oak barrels, the remainder in small stainless steel vats.Ageing: aging on fines lees. 40 % in 4 to 5 years old French oak barrels, the remainder in small stainless steel vats until racking in February. Further aging in stainless steel vats until bottling.

Appellation: AC Chablis Grand Cru Fermentation: pressing of the grapes in a pneumatic press, settling of the juice. Alcoholic fermentation: 50 to 60% in 4 to 5 years old French oak barrels, the remainder in small stainless steel vats.Ageing: aging on fines lees. 60 % in 4 to 5 years old French oak barrels, the remainder in small stainless steel vats until racking in March. Further aging in stainless steel vats until bottling.

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An economically divided vineyard

Originality of the vineyard

Over the generations and successive inheritances, the domaines were increasingly divided up. Today several owners share the same appellation.

LE MONTRACHET8 hectares = 14 owners

Bouchard Pere & Fils owns 0,89 ha (11% of the total appellation surface)

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CÔTE D’OR: BOUCHARD PÈRE & FILS

VITICULTURE & VINIFICATION:

• Pinot Noir & Chardonnay used almost exclusively; Gamay, Pinot Blanc and Pinot Gris for Passetoutgrains and Coteaux Bourguignons (very small quantities).

• Clonal selection of Pinot Noir is especially important, single Guyot training is most common, mechanical harvesting is quite rare.

• Whole bunch press can used in part, depending on vintage (reds only), fermentation often in open top vats for about 14-21 days depending on the producer. Ageing always in French oak, typically for 11-24 months, with Grand Crus seeing the longest oak ageing.

• New oak often used for Grand Crus and riper vintages, proportions are linked to producer style, Côte de Beaune whites can be barrel-fermented – premier and grand crus often are.

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CÔTE DE NUITS: BOUCHARD PÈRE & FILS

• The vines of the Côte de Nuits and Hautes Côtes de Nuits stretch over 20km from north to south. This area is the center for the region’s red Grands Crus.

• Between Dijon and Corgoloin, the wines grow along a narrow strip of hillside that is around 20km long and in parts, just 200 meters wide.

• Protected from the worst of the rain by the escarpment, hail is a frequent problem.

• Soils are limestone base with a mixed soil containing a high proportion of marl.

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Côte d'Or: Nord - Côte de Nuits


GRANDS CRUS

PREMIERS CRUSVILLAGEAPPELLATIONSREGIONALAPPELLATIONS FIXIN

GEVREY CHAMBERTIN

CHAMBOLLE-MUSIGNY

PREMEAUX-PRISSEY

NUITS-SAINT-GEORGES

VOSNE-ROMANEE,

VOUGEOT

MOREY-SAINT-DENIS

MARSANNAY-LA-CÔTE

Essentially red wines:n Structured and tannic(Gevrey-Chambertin, Nuits-Saint-Georges)Ageing potential: Very good

n Distinguished and elegant(Vosne-Romanée, Chambolle-Musigny)Ageing potential: Very good

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CÔTE DE NUITS: BOUCHARD PÈRE & FILS

KEY VILLAGES: Gevrey Chambertin: Musclar, pruny, firm, spicy, dark

garnet color • Key Grands Crus: (9 total) Chambertin,

Chambertin-Clos de Beze, Charmes-Chambertin, Chapelle-Chambertin, Griotte-Chambertin, Mazis-Chambertin

Chambolle Musigny: perfumed, delicate, roses, violets• Grands Crus: (2 total) Le Musigny, Les Bonnes Mares

Vosne Romanée: opulent, elegant, violets, cream, iron fist in velvet glove• Key Grands Crus: (6 total) Romanée-Conti, La

Romanée, La Tâche, Richebourg, Romanée-Saint-Vivant

Nuits St. Georges: earthy, tannic, meaty, muscular, black cherry, chocolate• No Grands Crus

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TASTING THE CÔTE DE NUITS: BOUCHARD PÈRE & FILS

Appellation: AC Gevrey ChambertinFermentation: The grapes are 66% de-stemmed, pre-fermentation maceration for 3 days, then extractive maceration during 2 and a half weeks with punching-down. Total vatting time 17 days.Ageing: In French oak (Allier 33%, Nevers 33%, Vosges 34%) with 32% new, the rest second and third use.

BOUCHARD PÈRE & FILS: THE DOMAINE

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• Bouchard Pere & Fils are the largest landowners in the Côte d’Or with over 130 hectares of vineyards, 12 of them are Grands Crus and 74 Premiers Crus.

• Founded in 1731 by Michel Bouchard in Volnay, the firm was acquired by the Henriot family in 1995; who have undertaken significant investments in viticulture and vinification.

• Headquartered in the Château de Beaune, a 15th century former fortress where today millions of bottles rest in the cellars, including a rare collection of pre-phylloxera wines.

• The entire domaine is farmed sustainably, with a growing portion farmed organically with an eye to convert the whole domaine in the future.

BOUCHARD PÈRE & FILS: THE DOMAINE

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• 10 grands crus for a total surface of 12 hectares:• The smallest: Bâtard-Montrachet (white grand cru) • The largest: Le Corton (red grand cru)

• 28 premiers crus for a total surface of 74 hectares:• The smallest: Gevrey-Chambertin Les Cazetiers (red

premier cru) • The largest: Savigny-Les-Beaune Les Lavieres (red

premier cru)

• 44 hectares in village and regional appellations.

• The total surface of the domaine consists of 130 hectares in the heart of the Côte-d'Or: 130 parcels spread out in 580 sub-parcels located in 17 different villages. The estate is about 45% farmed organically, with the goal to increase organic farming across the entire domaine.

The Story of Montrachet

The Seigneur of Montrachet set off on a crusade, entrusting his virgin daughter to his favorite Chevalier (knight).

In his absence, what happened, happened, and a child was born illegitimately.

On his return from the Crusades, the Seigneur discovered this Bâtard (bastard), who started to cry when he saw him. The Seigneur then said: “Criots-Bâtard!” (The bastard cries!).But he was a good man, and welcomed the child into the family with these words: “Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet” (Welcome, Bastard of Montrachet).

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CÔTE DE BEAUNE: BOUCHARD PÈRE & FILS

• Between Ladoix-Serrigny and the hillsides of the Maranges, the Côte de Beaune winegrowing region covers 20km from north to south.

• Facing the morning sun, these vineyards are never more than a few hundred meters wide.

• Around the town of Beaune, the vineyards are mainly planted with Pinot Noir, although the Chardonnay grape produces a few marvels on the Corton hill. From Meursault onwards, the Chardonnay grape dominates.

• Limestone based soil with fragmented limestone often found in white wine vineyards.

• Only 1 red Grand Cru exists, but this is the land of superlative whites and top-performing premier crus reds.

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Côte d'Or: Sud - Côte de Beaune


GRANDS CRUS

PREMIERS CRUSVILLAGEAPPELLATIONSREGIONALAPPELLATIONS

CHASSAGNE –MONTRACHET

BEAUNE

PULIGNY –MONTRACHET

MEURSAULTMONTHELIE

,VOLNAY

POMMARD

CHOREY-LES-BEAUNE

LADOIX-SERRIGNY

PERNANDVERGELESSES

ALOXE-CORTON

SAVIGNY-LES-BEAUNE

AUXEY- DURESSES

SAINT-ROMAIN

SAINT-AUBIN

SANTENAYDEZIZE-

LES-MARANGES

SAMPIGNY- LES-MARANGES

CHEILLY-LES-MARANGES

Red wines :

n Fine and elegant (Beaune, Savigny-Les-Beaune,Volnay)

Ageing potential: Goodn Full-bodied and powerful (Pommard,Aloxe-Corton)Ageing potential: Very good

White wines:n Round and mellow (Meursault)Ageing potential: Good

nPowerful and racy (Chassagne-Montrachet,Puligny-Montrachet, Aloxe-Corton)Ageing potential: Very Good

Production in the Côte d'Or : 2/3 red wines, 1/3 white wines

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WHITE KEY VILLAGES:

Puligny Montrachet: crisp acid, marked minerality, zesty, focused, lean• Grands Crus: (4 total) Montrachet, Bienvenues-

Bâtard-Montrachet, Bâtard-Montrachet and Chevalier-Montrachet

Chassagne Montrachet: sits in between fatter Meursault and leaner Puligny Montrachet – earthy, broad-shouldered• Grands Crus: (3 total) Montrachet, Bâtard-

Montrachet and Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet

Meursault: fat texture, full-bodied, nutty (almonds, marzipan), buttery• No Grands Crus, Key Premier Crus: (19

total) Charmes, Perrieres, Genevrieres, Les Gouttes d’Or

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TASTING THE CÔTE DE BEAUNE WHITES: BOUCHARD PÈRE & FILS

Appellation: AC MeursaultFermentation: Cold settled after 24 hours, the must starts fermentation in thermo-regulated tanks. One week after beginning alcoholic fermentation placed into oak barrels for the end of fermentation. Ageing: In French oak (Allier 60%, Nevers 40%) with 10% new, the rest second and third use.

Appellation: AC Puligny MontrachetFermentation: Cold settled after 24 hours, the must starts fermentation in thermo-regulated tanks. One week after beginning alcoholic fermentation placed into oak barrels for the end of fermentation. Ageing: In French oak (Allier 50%, Nevers 50%) with 12% new, the rest second and third use.

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RED KEY VILLAGES: Pommard: outlier in the Côte de Beaune with clay soils,

fat, muscular• Key Premier Crus: (27 total) Les Rugiens,

Les Épenots, Les Pézerolles

Aloxe Corton: savory, meaty, perfumed, dark color• Grands Crus: (1 total) Le Corton

Volnay: aromatically intense, fragrant, elegant, perfumed• Key Premier Crus: (30 total) Clos de la Barre, Les

Caillerets, Clos des Chênes, Volnay-Santenots

Savigny les Beaune: strawberry scented, delicate, elegant• Key Premier Crus (22 total): Les Vergelesses, Les

Lavieres, Les Marconnets

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TASTING THE CÔTE DE BEAUNE REDS: BOUCHARD PÈRE & FILS

Appellation: AC Beaune Premier CruFermentation: The grapes are 80% de-stemmed, pre-fermentation maceration for 3-4 days, then extractive maceration during 3 weeks with punching-down. Total vatting time 15 days.Ageing: In French oak (Allier 20% + Troncais 25% Nevers 35% + Vosges 20%) with 25% new, the rest second and third use.

Appellation: AC Pommard Premier CruFermentation: The grapes are 100% de-stemmed, pre-fermentation maceration for 3-4 days, then extractive maceration during 3 weeks with punching-down. Total vatting time 17 days.Ageing: In French oak (Allier, Nevers, Vosges) with 35% new, the rest second and third use.

Appellation: AC Le Corton Grand CruFermentation: The grapes are 80% de-stemmed, pre-fermentation maceration for 4 days , then extractive maceration for 3 weeks with punching-down, total vatting 11 days. Ageing: In French oak (Allier 30%, Nevers 30%, Vosges 40%) with 45% new, the rest second and third use.

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Côte Chalonnaise


PREMIERS CRUS

VILLAGEAPPELLATIONSREGIONALAPPELLATIONS

BOUZERONRULLY

MERCUREY

GIVRY

MONTAGNY

Essentially red wines:n Fruity and full-bodied

(Mercurey, Givry)Ageing potential: Good

Some white wines:n Rich and perfumed (Rully, Montagny)Ageing potential: To drink young

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THE CÔTE CHALONNAISE: BOUCHARD PÈRE & FILS

• A bit warmer than the Côte-d'Or, vineyards are mostly at higher altitudes, ripening is a bit later.

• Soil is fragmented limestone and marl, hilly outcroppings.• Single Guyot training with some machine harvesting,

vinification is similar to the Côte-d'Or, but new oak is rarely used.

• Wines are lighter in style than in the Côte-d'Or, more light-weight and less textured.

• Premier Cru vineyards are: Rully, Montagny and Mercurey.

Wines produced in the Côte Chalonnaise include:• Generic and sparkling Burgundy• Bourgogne Aligoté-Bouzeron

• Rully – white and red• Givry, mostly red• Montagny – white only

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Mâconnais


CHARDONNAY

SOLUTRE-POUILLY,

FUISSE, LOCHE

,

VINZELLESSAINT-VERAN

,

MÂCON VILLAGESMÂCON (BLANC-ROUGE-ROSÉ) POUILLY-FUISSÉPOUILLY-VINZELLESPOUILLY-LOCHÉSAINT-VÉRAN

Essentially white wines:n Supple, fresh and perfumed

(Mâcon-Villages, Pouilly-Fuissé) Ageing potential: To drink young

Some red wines:n Fruity and straightforward

(Mâcon rouge)Ageing potential: To drink young

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THE MÂCONNAIS: BOUCHARD PÈRE & FILS

• Significantly warmer (especially in summer) than the Côte-d'Or.

• Small, rolling hills based on limestone. Red wines are produced where the soil has more sand and clay.

• Single Guyot training or Taille à queue du Mâconnais (cane lopped around a semi-circle).

• Most wines are vinified and aged in stainless steel, however Pouilly-Fuissé is often aged in oak, with a good portion new .

• There are no Premier Cru Vineyards.• Wines are mostly whites, mostly un-oaked, crisp, light and

fresh. Reds are very light.

Wines produced in the Mâconnais include:• Mâcon, Mâcon-Superiéur• Mâcon-Villages, Mâcon+ Village Name• St.-Véran

• Pouilly-Vinzelles, Pouilly-Louché, Pouilly-Fuissé

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TASTING THE MÂCONNAIS: BOUCHARD PÈRE & FILS

Appellation: AC Pouilly-FuisséFermentation: Cold settled after 24 hours, the must starts fermentation in thermo-regulated tanks. One week after beginning alcoholic fermentation placed into oak barrels for the end of fermentation. Ageing: In 10-15% French oak (a portion of which is new depending on the profile of the vintage) the remainder in stainless steel, for 9-10 months.

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Beaujolais

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BEAUJOLAIS: VILLA PONCIAGO

• The warmest region in Burgundy – hot summers, cool winters.

• Composed largely of granite hills, some patches of chalky clay (white wine production), Southern Beaujolais is flat and sandy.

• Some single Guyot, traditional bush-trained vines (gobelet) still common. Hand harvesting dominates. Gamay for reds, Chardonnay for whites.

• Vinification has traditionally been carbonic maceration, short maceration often in inert oak, early bottling. Today, move towards Burgundian winemaking, less carbonic maceration, whole cluster press, longer vatting and ageing.

Wines produced in Beaujolais:• Beaujolais, Beaujolais Superiéur• Beaujolais Villages• Cru Beaujolais• Beaujolais Blanc & Beaujolais Rosé

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BEAUJOLAIS: VILLA PONCIAGO Cru Beaujolais

Fleurie is one of the ten « Crus » in the Beaujolais region and has always enjoyed a special reputation

More than ten centuries of history•Vines have existed in Beaujolais at least since the Roman era•Crus recognised by INAO in 1936•For some crus, « climats » indexed

The CrusCrus : terroir located on slopes with rocky soil• Fleurie: « feminine » violets, finesse,

one of the longest lived• Moulin-à-Vent: high tannnins, one of

the longest lived• Brouilly: brooding, dense• Côte de Brouilly: structured, elegant

• St. Amour: intensely red-fruited• Chénas: minerally, light• Juliénas: red cherries, cassis-like with

age• Chiroubles: delicate, light• Régnié: full-bodied, red currants• Morgon: dense, firm, minerally

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BEAUJOLAIS: VILLA PONCIAGO VILLA PONCIAGO

Villa Ponciago is an homage to ten centuries of cultivating the vine in Fleurie. Villa Ponciago is the estate’s first known name, in Latin, when the property was donated to the Abbaye de Cluny in the year 949 AD.

Purchased by the Henriot family in 2008, the estate is 49 hectares situated on some of the best terroirs in Fleurie.

Gamay produced in a Burgundian style with no carbonic maceration used.

Terroir driven wines from the Fleurie Cru, all finesse and elegance, sublimated by the silky texture of oak maturing in aged casks. Delicious wines.

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TASTING BEAUJOLAIS: VILLA PONCIAGO

Appellation: AC Fleurie Fermentation: 100% de-stemmed to remove Gamay’s green stalks. Cold maceration (pre-fermentation), then a long fermentation (8-12 days) to allow the terroir aromas to emerge. Ageing: Depending on the vintage, 20-30% aged in used French oak casks (1-4 years old), the remainder is aged for 5 months in small tanks to preserve freshness.

Appellation: AC FleurieFermentation: 100% de-stemmed to remove Gamay’s green stalks. Cold maceration (pre-fermentation), then a long fermentation (10-15 days) to allow the terroir aromas to emerge. Ageing: Depending on the vintage, 40%-60% aged in used French oak barrels (1-4 years old), 10% in new oak demi-muids (400 l), the remainder is matured for 6-8 months in small tanks to preserve freshness.

Education

Babc burgundy seminar_slide_share_2015