SIO Waves & BeachesCore Observations & Predictions of

Nearshore wavesSurfzone currentsBeach change

Regional Coastal Ocean Observing Systems Integrated Observations & Predictions of

Physical, Chemical, andBiological properties of the coastal ocean.

State and Federal AgenciesNOAA/NWS/NCEPUSACEUSGSFEMA

Private Sector Businesses Engineering firms Marine weather providers

General PublicCoastal SafetyCoastal PlanningMarine NavigationMarine Recreation

SIO Waves and Beaches

Model Prediction (MOP) System

Wave Monitoring

Wave Buoy NetworkNOAA WW3 Forecasts

Surfzone Monitoring

Current Measurements Dye/Drifter Tracking Jetski Sand level Surveys

Beach Modeling

Beach width changeInundation levels

Coastal Wave Modeling

Breaking wave heightsRadiation stresses (Sxx,Sxy)

Beach Monitoring

LIDARATV Sand level surveys

Surfzone Modeling

Current Direction & SpeedBottom Velocities

Public

Access

To Core

Coastal

Environment

Variables

Via

“MOP Sites”

Alongcoast Model Prediction

“MOP” Sites

- 10m water depth.- 100m alongshore spacing.

CA Counties with Operational MOP Wave Information

Each MOP Site also has an associated cross-shore MOPTransect and MOP Polygon.

Predicted surfzone averaged alongshore currentswill be provided for each MOP transect on a relatively straight beach without obstructions. A seasonalcross-shore bathymetry profile is assumed if thereis no recent survey data.

MOP Alongshore Currents

MOP Site Inundation

Predicted Inundation Elevations will be providedfor transects with simpleshoreline profiles

Known elevation that results inparking lot flooding at this location

Each MOP Polygon contains a set of MOP Sandboxes.

Torrey Pines (MOP SD0584) Beach Width Change

Width Change (m)

Date

modelmeasured

MOP Beach Width Change

A data-adaptive cross-shore radiation stress (Sxx) model will provide beach change predictions for MOP Polygons with sufficient beach survey information.