LNE & Spa - September 2012

LNE & Spa—the magazine for skin care and spa professionals September 2012 $7.50

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Sustainable Farming Practices, Handmade Products, Recyclable Packaging, Vegetable Inks in Printing,

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Page 4 • www.LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • September 2012

CONTENTSSEPTEMBER 2012 VOLUME 27 NUMBER 9

businessBaskets of Love 83 Spa Operations Interview 84Technology and

Your Business 88The Power of Pink 91When Bad Managers Ruin Good Employees 94Biz News 97

spaCancer on the Breast 59 First, Do No Harm 60Pamper Me Pink 72

Owner’s Column 78Spa News 81

skinAre You Listening? 25 Defining Skin Cancer 28

The Facial Room 36Oncology Ingredients 42Deciphering Double Blind Studies 46Skin News 55

Defining Skin Cancer page 28

Pamper Me Pink soothing the side effects of chemotherapy and radiation page 72

The Power of Pink creating the atmosphere

page 91

organic & wellnessMedicinal Plants 99 Create a Space of Tranquility 100PTSD Therapies for the Spa 104The Healing Power of Homeopathy 108A Deeper Meaning for

Today’s “Health Spa” 112Organic & Wellness News 115

imagePermanent Cosmetics Restore Femininity 117 The Gentle Touch of Beauty 118

Lash Therapy 119Image News 121

Lash Therapy lash experts providing beauty 24/7 page 119

Covercourtesy of Franck Provost

extrasFrom the Editor 6Spa of the Month: The Springs Integrative Medicine & Spa

Center, Clifton Springs, NY 10Breast Cancer Awareness in Your Spa 64Calendar of Events 124Advertisers’ Index 130

PTSD Therapies for the Spa

page 104

Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa, American Edition, (USPS 003-687) (ISSN 1043-9641) is published monthly, 12 times per year and is sold exclusively by subscription. Publisher’s Name: Jean Jacques Legrand, M.D., 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, FL, 33134. Periodical postage paid at Miami, Florida, with additional mailing offices. Postmaster: Send address changes to: Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa, American Edition, 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, Florida 33134, United States Subscription: Annual Rate $45.00 Canada Subscription: $55.00 (American) 1st Class Postage Overseas Subscription: Two years for $140.00 (U.S.) Air Mail Postage

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THE SEPTEMBER ISSUE OF LNE & SPA is dedicated to those who have been touched by cancer. We particularly emphasize breast

cancer in recognition of next month’s Breast Cancer Awareness theme. In this edition, we focus on how our industry can reach out to oncology patients, their families and their caretakers; providing them with encouragement and support by facilitating healing through therapeutic services. We address the sensi-tive issue of working with those in extended care or hospice facilities. A spa can become a sanctuary for someone in the midst of a crisis; it is up to us to provide an atmosphere that offers stress-relieving services that give our guests a sense of well-being and comfort.

Through the combination of traditional Western medicine and complementary therapies, spas can provide services and treatments that not only tackle physical pain but also improve patients’ mental state. By helping patients develop a positive mindset, which ultimately strengthens the immune system and accelerates healing, these special guests are certain to feel better about themselves.

The month of September is also special because The International Congress of Esthetics & Spa, Long Beach is happening in beautiful California on the 9th and 10th! The exceptional quality of speakers, classes, networking events and vendors at this world class educational event always make it a fun and rewarding experience. Join in on the festivities and enhance your education, network with your peers and grow your career. We are thrilled that we can partner with licensed therapists and spa professionals who are serious about their careers and our industry as a whole. I look forward to seeing you in Long Beach! n

Wishing you all the best success,

—Denise R. Fuller, [email protected]

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3929 PONCE DE LEON BLVD. CORAL GABLES, FLORIDA 33134

800.471.0229 (USA)

305.443.2322 Worldwide fax 305.443.1664 www.lneonline.com

e-mail: [email protected] [email protected]

Publisher Dr. Jean Jacques Legrand

Chief exeCutive OffiCer Rodolphe Legrand [email protected]

editOr in Chief Denise R. Fuller [email protected]

Art direCtOr Sacha Smith [email protected]

AssistAnt editOr Amanda Clinton Winter [email protected]

direCtOr Of sAles Danni Boucher [email protected]

MArketing direCtOr Christèle de La Haye [email protected]

COnferenCe COOrdinAtOr Laura G. Bazo [email protected]

exhibitOr OPerAtiOns AssistAnt Mayli Bueno [email protected]

internAtiOnAl editOr Michele de Lattre-Pierantoni 7 Avenue Stephane-Mallarme, 75017

Paris, France - 43 80 06 47

ADVISORY BOARD Lydia Sarfati • Rob Trow • Ben Johnson, M.D.

Lake Louise • Nina Curtis • Diane Buccola

Contributors

Printed with 100% soy-based ink. This magazine is recyclable.

Please recycle where facilities exist.

Samuella BeckerLinda BertautKrista BourneKris CampbellLiv ContrerasShelly CookNina CurtisMarni Bell Federer

Denise R. FullerLinda Harding-Bond Brian HathawayKrista IngerickMatana LePlaeCharlyne MeinhardLes Moore, N.D.Toni MuirheadHeather Paulson, N.D.

Cassandra RafuseElizabeth Rice, N.D.Robert SachsDavid SuzukiMary TurnerMelany WhitneyAnne C. WillisNoreen Young



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SPA OF THE MONTH

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A VISIT TO THE SPRINGS INTEGRATIVE MEDICINE & SPA CENTER is both a journey back in time to the early days of American medicine and a leap forward, into a future where medical approaches will be integrated with time tested spa therapies. Built near mineral springs that were the sacred healing waters of local Native American tribes in ancient times, the present day spa is located in a wing of a modern regional hospital complex. In the 1800s, the waters were plumbed into a red brick sani-tarium, which is still an impressive edifice in the center of the picturesque Victorian village of Clifton Springs. The area is located in the heart of the Finger Lakes region of northern New York state, less than 30 miles from Rochester and just over 200 miles from New York City. The old Victorian homes that surround the hospital and spa have been beautifully restored to their former glory of the days when political and spiritual stars would visit, and local industrialists had summer homes in the area just so they could enjoy the restorative value of the hot springs.

by Krista Ingerick and Les Moore, N.D., M.S.O.M.

HISTORY OF HEALING THE SPRINGS INTEGRATIVE MEDICINE & SPA CENTER CLIFTON SPRINGS, NY

THE VILLAGE OF CLIFTON

SPRINGS WAS FOUNDED IN

1850 BY DR. HENRY FOSTER.

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Historical significanceThe village of Clifton Springs was founded in 1850 by Dr. Henry Foster, when the field of medi-cine as we know it today was still a very new sci-ence. His Clifton Springs Sanitarium combined the most advanced medical technology of the day together with spiritual and psychological counseling, recommendations for diet and nu-trition and therapies that included herbal medi-cine, homeopathy, massage and hydrotherapy. Dr. Foster also recognized the inherent healing benefits of being surrounded by natural beauty

and bathing in warm spring water. He viewed this peaceful rural setting as the perfect environ-ment for fully restoring the deeply stressed and seriously ill to health. His original vision was to establish a place where guests could come from all over the world to rest, rejuvenate and heal before returning to their lives as more inspired, useful citizens. This is the same mission carried on today by naturopathic doctor Les Moore and his team of holistic health spa professionals. Just as they do today, treatments then focused on the healing waters that are offered to all guests, whether for pure relaxation or for healing serious illness. As in the past, The Springs, in combination with Clifton Springs Hospital, is maintaining its rich tradition of always being a place far ahead of

its time, a place of true innovation. Historically, it was the site of many “firsts” for the medical field in the U.S.: the first X-ray machine; the first open-ward psychiatric care facilities; and the first hospital to have a full-time chaplain recognizing spiritual wellness as a valuable part of the heal-ing process. Now, under Dr. Moore’s guidance, The Springs is distinguishing itself as being in the vanguard where modern and traditional heal-ing therapies and technologies come together, creating a holistic vision that attracts spa goers and clients seeking health and healing. This is similar to the past, when people from all over the world came to Dr. Foster’s Sanitarium to “take the water cure.”

Modern revivalThe revival of the spa began in 2000, as part of Clifton Springs Hospital & Clinic’s 150th an-niversary celebration. The Integrative Medicine Center and Spa was created to provide integra-

tive medical care, spa therapies and educational programs for the local community and hospital patients, bringing Dr. Foster’s vision and the facility full circle. This was the result of the ini-tial work by a local nurse, who knew about the rich healing tradition of the springs, but had to travel and seek out holistic therapies elsewhere to augment her treatment for breast cancer. She helped form a committee that researched the viability of bringing back treatments that could help people heal in body, mind and spirit, an ap-proach that has recently been termed “CAM,” for Complementary and Alternative Medicine. The hospital added acupuncture, massage therapy, chiropractic and naturopathic medicine. The

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the main building of the Clifton Springs Sanitarium was completed in 1896

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There is no better time than now to reinvent your business and the way you serve your clients. The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, Long Beach is the most inspirational conference for spa and skin care professionals, with informative educational sessions that encompass topics relevant to every sector of the industry. It is also the event where you can meet and network with many other like-minded professionals, and find an exhibitors’ floor flooded with the best companies in the business showcasing the latest cutting-edge products and equipment!

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2012 LONG BEACH, CA

the international congressof esthetics anD sPa

Presented by:

the MUst-attenD conference for sPa & sKin care Professionals

Endorsed by:

There is no better time than now to reinvent your business and the way you serve your clients. The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, Long Beach is the most inspirational conference for spa and skin care professionals, with informative educational sessions that encompass topics relevant to every sector of the industry. It is also the event where you can meet and network with many other like-minded professionals, and find an exhibitors’ floor flooded with the best companies in the business showcasing the latest cutting-edge products and equipment!





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mineral spring water was piped from the same aquifer source as the old sanitarium into a wing of the hospital where The Springs’ services were expanded to encompass other areas of health, beauty and wellness. This type of program is a first for the area, if not the nation.

One of a kind Today, clientele seek everything from pure re-laxation, rejuvenation, relief for specific condi-tions and pain management. In addition, cli-ents dealing with complex medical conditions are referred through the hospital, all the way through to end-of-life palliative care. The staff is able to care for a broad spectrum of needs in a way that not only recognizes the value of modern Western medicine, but integrates a cli-ent’s care with therapies that value the innate healing abilities of the whole human organism. Services are available for anyone living in the local community, visitors, hospital staff, nursing home residents and inpatients. Complimentary naturopathic, acupuncture and massage consul-tations and treatment are available to every pa-tient admitted to the hospital with a physician’s order. Clifton Springs Hospital is very special, if

not totally unique in that it provides integrative medical and spa therapies to both outpatients and inpatients, including those in palliative care or at the joint replacement center, cancer center, nursing home, long-term care center, behav-ior health and addictions recovery center. All these specialties are part of the same medical campus amidst forest and rolling hills, bordered by a mineral springs-fed creek. The Integrative Medicine Center and Spa also works with the Veteran’s Administration, treating veterans with Post-Traumatic Stress Disorder, chronic pain and other disorders.

Diverse offeringsThe knowledgeable staff is continually expand-ing on the core service menu, developing both seasonal treatments and goal-oriented pack-ages. Dr. Moore’s team presently offers natu-ropathic medicine, acupuncture, hydrotherapy, massage therapy, chiropractic, hypnotherapy, various Ayurvedic spa services, aromatherapy and a range of other results-oriented spa treatments, in addition to educational programs, lectures and events. One of the main goals is to provide care that is not only effective, but offers genuine ser-vices rooted in various cultural traditions. Many of these traditions value the therapeutic benefits of mineral springs, which have proven their value in modern times and have been valued over the

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GLOBAL TREATMENTS• Chinese acupuncture and classical Chinese medicine.• Moor Peat baths and body treatments, using therapeutic peat harvested from the

Czech Republic and treatment methods developed in Europe.

• Mineral baths, which have a strong medical history in Europe, Asia and North America.• European skin care and spa treatments that

use minimally processed, primarily organic and highly effective ingredients.

• Tibetan and Indian Ayurvedic spa therapies: a. Abhyanga, a full body massage with custom oil blends b. Shirodhara, playing a fine stream of oil on the forehead c. Ayurvedic foot reflexology and kansa (bronze) wand massage d. Ayurvedic lifestyle

consultations and marmapuncture (Ayurvedic acupuncture)• European biological medicine.

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centuries. Some massage, naturopathic and aro-matherapy services are composites of several different natural medical traditions from around the world. Other treatments are more specific to particular parts of the globe (see sidebar on page 16).

True teamworkThe staff feel there are tremendous benefits to offering these services to their clients, and are well aware that such treatments, especially of-fered as part of a well-planned and integrated healing approach, are rarely available in more rural areas of the country. They are grateful that Clifton Springs, though a tiny village itself, is in a central location, with easy access to near-by expressways and major roads that cross the state so they are within easy reach of the local and surrounding areas. And, in the true spirit of holism, they appreciate the opportunity to work alongside the regional hospital’s physicians and

staff. This feeling is reciprocated, as services at The Springs are well supported by the busy main hospital outpatient program. Furthermore, selec-tion of the spa staff is handled very carefully by the hospital’s human resources and medical staff offices. Stringent interview and hiring processes ensure that staff is highly skilled and capable of treating guests with complex medical histories or medical needs. This includes conditions and circumstances rarely seen, and skills not often needed in a typical American spa setting. The result is a strong, creative and highly effective team, with each therapist contributing something unique to the entire department.

Though the atmosphere does not resemble that of the fanciest spas and provides a more clinical setting, the staff feels like an extended family. Each member of the close knit team fills multiple roles to ensure that the department runs smoothly, with each treatment being carried out with the highest level of professionalism.

Over the years, the area’s medical commu-nity in the area has become more welcoming and accepting of the unique services offered at The Springs. When asked how this has been accomplished, the answer is results. Clients re-turn to their own medical doctors looking, feel-ing and truly being in better health. With their multi-disciplinary team approach, guests are offered an integrative combination of therapies to help them heal from their unique and very specific concerns. No two people are treated

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spa of the month

SUCCESS STORYThirty-five years ago, Gianna Glavin was a young mother and graduate student when a drunk driver changed her life. The accident left her with a permanent tracheotomy, a pulmonary disorder, a fractured spine, digestive problems and severe osteoarthritis. Although conventional medicine saved Gianna’s life, it wasn’t helping her manage her chronic pain and disorders. Beginning in 1989, she and her husband traveled to the Bircher-Benner clinic in Zurich, Switzerland for relief until the clinic closed. After extensive research, they found Dr. Les Moore at Clifton Springs Hospital. Since her first appointment, Glavin feels her health has improved dramatically, thanks to an individualized program of natu-ropathy, Ayurveda, acupuncture, hydrotherapy, massage and spa services. Now, instead of flying to Europe, she makes the one hour drive to Clifton Springs on a regular basis. “I am so grateful to Dr. Moore and Clifton Springs,” says Glavin. “What he has achieved since I’ve been coming here can only be described as astounding.”

THE WATERS AT THE SPRINGS HAVE A HIGH proportion of dissolved salts, magnesium and cal-cium. Sulphur is also present in the waters. The ben-efits of soaking in the mineral water at The Springs include detoxification, reduction of inflammation and relief from musculoskeletal pain. Skin conditions, digestive disorders and fibromyalgia receive relief. General immunity, health and wellness are enhanced. Clients may come solely for the purpose of soaking in the waters, and often they choose to combine a soak with services such as massage or acupuncture. Additional ways that the waters are incorporated into services include inhalation and the use of hot and cold compresses. The team at The Springs has also developed custom therapeutic mineral baths, which incorporate herbs, salts, minerals and other natural substances into the water to enhance the healing effects.

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exactly the same; each client has their own indi-vidual needs, preferences, concerns and back-ground. Patients admitted to the hospital may receive complimentary consultations and a spa bath. Imagine a hospital where a consult with a naturopath and a mineral springs bath is a stan-dard welcome. Staff also provide one-on-one treatments in a spa-like setting, away from the hustle and bustle of the main hospital.

Customized preferencesThe most frequently sought after services include massage therapy, naturopathic medicine, acu-puncture and spa therapies. Skin care services, waxing, manicures and pedicures are also an im-portant part of the service menu, and are steady contributors to the revenue stream. As in most spas, services are scheduled according to a pre-defined menu. However, rather than leaving cli-ents to just pick and choose at will, The Springs’ staff takes each client’s condition into account. Individual needs strongly guide the selection and style of the treatment. And because some clients come with serious medical needs, the intake forms tend to be long and medically explicit. Some cli-ents find the intake forms and process somewhat cumbersome, especially when their primary goal is simply relaxation. However, due to the fact that the majority of the clientele seek out services at

The Springs because of the ability of the staff to deal with complex medical conditions, chronic disease, acute and chronic pain conditions, the staff finds a thorough intake process integral to their ability to fully meet the needs of the cli-ents and provide the best treatment possible. They realize that without it, such individualized treatment would be impossible, and possibly less safe. In both the short and long run, most clients are thankful for the extra time and con-sideration they receive at The Springs, as well as the skills and expertise that each practitioner brings to the team. The whole treatment team believes in the words of Henri de Mondeville, who is credited with saying, “Anyone who be-lieves that anything can be suited to everyone is a great fool, because medicine is practiced not on mankind in general, but on every individual

in particular.” This type of individual customized approach is indeed a core value for every team member at Clifton Springs Hospital’s Integrative Medicine Center and Spa.

Although the Integrative Medicine Center and Spa offers spa services that can be performed in a day spa setting, a large proportion of the patients come there seeking integrative care for chronic diseases. Many of these patients have multiple chronic diseases and pain, including chronic fatigue syndrome, fibromyalgia, post-traumatic stress disorder, cancer, chronic pain syndromes, hypothyroidism, ulcerative colitis, Crohn’s disease, neurological disorders, migraines, Lyme disease and other recalcitrant diseases. Because they use whole medical systems such as naturopathy and homeopathy, along with detoxification and rejuvenation systems such as Ayurveda and spa

spa of the month|the springs integrative medicine & spa center

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THE MOST FREQUENTLY SOUGHT AFTER SERVICES INCLUDE MASSAGE

THERAPY, NATUROPATHIC MEDICINE, ACUPUNCTURE AND SPA THERAPIES.

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Page 22 • www.LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • September 2012Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #318 on reader service card

spa of the month|the springs integrative medicine & spa center

MOST SERVICES ARE NOT COVERED

BY INSURANCE, AND THEREFORE ARE AN OUT-OF-

POCKET EXPENSE FOR CLIENTS.

medicine, they are often able to help some patients that haven’t responded to conventional care, even after multiple visits with numerous specialists.

AccessibilityWhile medical providers refer some pa-tients for services at The Springs, the majority of the clientele is self-referred. Most services are not covered by insur-ance, and therefore are an out-of-pock-et expense for clients. For this reason,

The Springs attempts to keep service rates reasonable, which allows clients to receive services on a more frequent basis, especially when dealing with a particular medical condition or concern. Prepaid packages and special promo-tions marketed through an email list also support clientele by making services more affordable. The Springs also offers complimentary services and discounts for patients receiving treatment at the hospital’s cancer center. For potential clients in the surrounding community who demonstrate financial need, funds earmarked for integrative medicine are available through the Clifton Springs Hospital Foundation, and may be grant-ed to assist with out of pocket expens-es. Ayurveda, the traditional healing system of India, has always supported the idea that healing services, no mat-ter the severity of the condition, should be affordable. Whether following in an-cient oriental traditions or in the spiritual footstep of their founders, The Springs is working to reach this goal. Going for a bath in one of their huge shiny white tubs, you are just as likely to see a local farmer as a New York City runway model or granny in a wheelchair. This is truly a place of deep healing for everyone. n

Krista Ingerick is the operations man-ager of The Springs Integrative Medicine Center & Spa of Clifton Springs, NY. A licensed massage therapist, she has de-veloped a massage therapy practice that specializes in chronic pain man-agement, injury rehabilitation and or-thopedic massage, as well as prenatal massage. Ingerick incorporates multiple modalities into her sessions, and en-courages a multidisciplinary approach to health and wellness.

Les Moore, N.D., M.S.O.M., is a licensed acupuncturist and a pioneer of integrative medicine. He has authored two books on healing, and lectures internationally on the subject. Dr. Moore currently serves as the Director of Integrative Medicine at Clifton Springs Hospital and Clinic in Clifton Springs, NY.


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September 2012 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 25

ADVICE: Don’t go on restrictive diet plans. When we restrict calorie intake, it can slow down the metabolism and make losing weight almost impossible. It’s much more important to eat a bal-anced diet with a high water content. It should be full of fruits and vegetables, fiber, lean protein and high quality fats. The body knows how to properly utilize the nutrients that these foods contain, which makes losing weight and keep-ing it off much easier, especially when coupled with a sound exercise program (rebounding to assist the lymphatic sys-tem) and quality rest.

This question also presents an oppor-tunity for you to speak with your clients about your professional slimming and toning body treatments that can further assist them in their program. Sign them up for a series of treatments so that they can experience maximum results.

CLIENT: “No matter how much sleep I get, I still have dark circles under my eyes!”ADVICE: In Traditional Chinese Med icine (TCM), the area under the eye is associ-ated with the “energy” of the kidneys. This doesn’t mean that there is a problem with the kidneys, but instead that the en-ergy, “Qi,” may be stagnant, sluggish or weak. More sleep may not be the answer.

DO YOUR CLIENTS COMPLAIN about lack of sleep, stress and other health and beauty issues? This may be a golden opportunity for you to assist them in improving their health and beau-ty needs with your professional treat-ments and products, so listen up!

Common client statements and ideas on how to assist themCLIENT: “I am so tired … I love coming to see you because I feel like I catch up on my sleep for the month!”ADVICE: Fatigue can be caused by so many different things; lack of sleep, poor diet, premenstrual time, stress ... the list goes on. Aromatherapy, acupressure and reflexology can assist your clients by relaxing, restoring and rejuvenating their bodies. Creating home care pro-grams that outline ways to relax, such as diffusing essential oils and taking aro-matherapy baths (e.g., bergamot, laven-der, rosemary) can be very therapeutic. Peppermint, basil, lemon and angelica work so much better than caffeine and other stimulants to increase energy with-out over-amping the adrenal glands.

CLIENT: “I can’t seem to keep extra weight off—even though I’m always dieting!”

The body could also be dehydrated. Plenty of purified water (eight glasses a day depending on the water content of your food) and ionic trace minerals are important to keep the lymph and body fluids functioning properly. Teas such as juniper berry, uva ursi and alfalfa work to support kidney function. Cucumbers, watermelon, leafy greens and grapefruit are all high water content foods that also aid in kidney function. Keep sliced cucumbers in a glass container in the re-frigerator and place over the eyes for 10 minutes first thing in the morning when you wake up or while taking a bath. The cucumbers are cooling, refreshing and increase microcirculation.

Clients are making a host of other comments and asking for our help. Listen closely to see if you’ve been miss-ing anything. You might be surprised! It’s so easy for us to get comfortable and friendly with our clients, but we must always remember that they are com-ing to us because of our expertise, and with the expectation that they will gain the desired results from our treatments, products and knowledge. Take the time to listen with open ears and see with new eyes; it will prove to be healthy for the growth of your business. n

Nina Curtis is principal of Curtis Communications, Nina Curtis & Associates and the Nile Institute. Curtis received her MBA from Pepperdine University and consults for leading companies in the personal care industry. With more than 20 years of experience, she holds certifications in aromatherapy, reflexology, acupressure and color light therapy. Curtis has been instrumental in the development of training programs for salons and spas nationwide.

by Nina Curtis

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THE MosT ExquisiTE skin carE & spa EvEnT in THE indusTry

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THE inTErnaTional congrEssof EsTHETics and spa

Presented by:

The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, Philadelphia is about working together and sharing our knowledge, helping one another to reach new levels of success. The two-day event offers the unique opportunity to attend cutting-edge career-boosting lectures and demonstrations, interact with our platform of associations, mingle with your peers at networking events and walk an exhibit floor flooded with hundreds of the best new and well established companies showcasing the latest trends and products!

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skin

BY ANNE C. WILLIS

L OVE YOUR SKIN, BECAUSE YOU could be one of the two million new skin cancer patients who are diagnosed an-

nually. The identification of skin cancers and the treatment has certainly become more sci-entific, but skin cancer has been a recognized skin disease for centuries. French physician René Laennec, who talked about cancer in a lecture in 1804, is credited with being the first to identify melanoma as a disease. It is be-lieved that he also gave the disease its name. Dr. Laennec’s findings were published in 1806.

It is proposed that the first person to have actually operated on a skin cancer lesion was Scottish anatomist and surgeon John Hunter in 1787. Dr. Hunter did not know what the le-sion was, although he said that it looked like a “cancerous fungous excrescence,” translated to mean “cancerous fungus.”

However, there is earlier evidence of skin can-cer, which is found among writings of Cornelius Celsus, who lived in the early part of the first cen-tury (28 B.C. - 50 A.D.). Celsus was a Roman en-cyclopedist who wrote on the topic of medicine and translated the Greek word “carcinos” into “cancer,” a Latin word meaning crab. Galen (130 A.D. - 200 A.D.), the last and most influential of the great ancient medical practitioners, used the Greek term “oncos” to refer to a growth or tumor that looked malignant. It wasn’t until the beginning of the 19th century when “carcinoma” became a synonym for “cancer,” and the ending “oma” was used to designate some cancerous lesions.

Ancient Arab and Greek writings also iden-tify ailments that we now believe to have been cancer. The writings claim that there is no treat-ment for the disease, but as far back as 300 B.C., Romans used ginger root to treat all forms of cancer. Dioscorides, who wrote Materia Medica in the fourth century, also lists the use of red clo-ver and autumn crocus to fight cancer, and this includes skin cancer.

The causes of skin cancer continue to be at the forefront of modern medicine. Nutritional deficiencies, lack of detoxification, free radicals, depletion of ozone, use of chemical sunblocks and cancer therapies themselves are all contributing factors. Estheticians can play a key role in moni-toring the health of their clients’ skin, and that in-cludes checking for suspicious lesions or growths.

Skin disordersThe skin is the only system that can be observed in its entirety for abnormalities and disease. It can provide clues to underlying disease in the body and reflect the state of its own health. Such clues include changes in skin color, turgor (the distension and displacement of fluid in the skin), lesions and eruptions. A lesion can be defined as a wound or other injury to the skin, with causes ranging from systemic diseases; underlying in-fections; exposure to bacteria, fungi, viruses and parasites; or an allergic reaction to food or drugs. Lesions can be categorized as flat, elevated or depressed, and can either be benign or cancer-ous. There are numerous types of benign lesions, each having its own medical term, as shown in the following list:

continues

DEFINING

SKIN CANCER

THE TWO MOST COMMON TYPES ARE BASAL CELL CANCER AND SQUAMOUS CELL CANCER. THEY USUALLY FORM ON THE HEAD, FACE, CHEST/NECK, HANDS AND ARMS.



FLAT LESIONS:• Macule: Flat, colored spot less than 1 cm in diameter (e.g., freckle).• Plaque: Flat or lightly raised

lesion more than 1 cm in diameter.ELEVATED LESIONS:• Bulla: Raised, fluid-filled lesion

or blister greater than 1 cm (e.g., severe poison oak).

• Nodule: Solid, raised lesion larger than a papule, 0.6 to 2 cm in diameter (e.g., small tumor).

• Papule: Small, circular, solid elevation of the skin less than 1 cm in diameter (e.g., wart, pimple).

The warning signs of skin cancerSkin cancers, including melanoma, basal cell carcinoma and squamous cell carcinoma, often originate in the form of changes in the skin. They can be new growths or precancerous lesions that are not cancer, but could become cancer over time. The two most common types are basal cell cancer and squamous cell cancer. They usu-ally form on the head, face, chest/neck, hands and arms. In the past 30 years, there has been a rise in skin abnormalities. Lack of nutrients, adrenal fatigue, insulin resistance and pharma-ceuticals have all contributed to this increase. It continues

MOST MELANOMAS PRESENT AS A DARK, MOLE-

LIKE SPOT THAT SPREADS. UNLIKE A MOLE, IT HAS

AN IRREGULAR BORDER.

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can be confusing when trying to identify these lesions and if they pose any danger. If caught early enough, lives can be saved.

Rules for detectionThe following signs can help you detect cancer-ous skin changes.

Asymmetry: Normally, the moles that you see on healthy skin are symmetrical. For exam-ple, if you divide them into exact halves, each half of the mole resembles the other half. But in cases of skin cancer, the moles are irregular in symmetry, and each half of the mole does not bear any resemblance to the other half.

Border irregularity: A normal or a benign mole contains smooth borders. In cases of skin problems such as cancer, the moles bear irregu-lar borders that are uneven and may not even be seen properly.

Color: Any color of the mole that is differ-ent from the regular brown color is important to note. A regular mole will be one shade or color, but a problematic mole will contain shades of black or brown, and even red or blue lines may be seen as the problem progresses.

Diameter: A mole generally has a diameter of 6 mm. It should be noted when a mole is much larger or smaller than this. A mole that contin-ues to grow is even more cause for concern.

Evaluation: One last sign of skin cancer that needs to be noted is elevation of the mole. A mole is generally on the same level as the skin. If a mole is found to be elevated with an irregular surface, it should be checked for cancer. Cancerous moles generally increase in height very rapidly.

Feel: A change in sensation, such as itchi-ness, tenderness or pain.

The three major types of skin cancer:Pre-cancerous: Actinic keratosis, hypertrophic actinic keratosis or pigmented actinic keratosis may appear as pink, skin-colored or gray, flat, scaly growths that have a rough, “sandpapery” feel when touched. Actinic keratosis cancers vary in size but are often about the diameter of a pen-cil eraser, and range in thickness from barely el-evated above the skin’s surface to a thick “warty” growth. The word keratosis comes from the Greek word “kerat,” which means “horn” or scale, and the suffix “osis,” which means“condition.” The word actinic is derived from the Greek word “aktis,” meaning “ray.”


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skin|defining skin cancer

MELANOMA IS MOST COMMON IN PEOPLE WITH FAIR SKIN, BUT CAN OCCUR IN PEOPLE OF ALL SKIN COLORS.

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Basal cell carcinoma: Basal cell carcinoma is an open sore that bleeds, oozes or crusts and remains open for a few weeks, only to heal up and then bleed again. A persistent, non-healing sore is a very common sign of an early BCC.Other types of basal cell carcinoma• Superficialbasalcellcarcinoma• Infiltratingbasalcellcarcinoma• Seborrheadermatitis

Squamous cell carcinomas: Squamous cell carcinomas typically appear as a persistent thick, rough, scaly patch that can bleed if bumped. They also appear as flat cells that look like fish scales. The word “squamous” came from the Latin term “squama,” meaning “the scale of a fish or serpent.” They often look like warts, and sometimes appear as open sores with a raised border and crusted surface over an elevated pebbly base.

Bowen’s disease is a precancerous skin condition caused by abnormal cells growing in the epidermis. These cells are not invasive or malignant (cancerous). If left untreated, Bowen’s disease may develop into squamous cell carcinoma.

Malignant melanoma: Melanoma is the most danger-ous form of skin cancer, a malignancy of the melanocyte, the cell that produces pigment in the skin. Melanoma comes from the word “melan” from melanocytes, the pigment cells of the skin plus “oma,” meaning tumor. Melanoma is most common in people with fair skin, but can occur in people of all skin colors. Most melanomas present as a dark, mole-like spot that spreads. Unlike a mole, it has an irregular border. A susceptibility to melanoma may be genetically inherited, and risk increases with overexposure to the sun and sunburn.Other types of melanoma cancer• Superficialspreadingmalignantmelanoma• Nodularmelanoma• Lentigomelanoma• Acrallentiginousmelanoma

Benign skin lesions: There are a number of skin lesions that are considered benign, but resemble skin cancers. The following represents some of these lesions: Benign skin lesions that resemble basal cell carcinoma• Fibrouspapule• Tricoepithlelioma• Keliod

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more than a cosmetic imperfection. It could signify a threat to one’s health and well-being. n

Anne C. Willis, a licensed esthetician and worldwide leader in holistic and medical skin therapies, is the founder of De la Terre Skincare. She is an accredited skin care instructor and the director of Oncology Skin Therapeutics™, bringing more than 30 years of experience and knowledge to the new generation of skin therapists. Willis coauthored The Esthetician’s Guide to Working With Physicians, and has been featured in numerous publications. For more information, contact her at [email protected] or visit www.delaterreskincare.com.

skin|defining skin cancer


THE INCREASE IN SKIN LESIONS AND

ABNORMALITIES MAKES IT NECESSARY TO STAY INFORMED AND BE OBSERVANT.

• Sebacioushyplasia• CommonwartBenign skin lesions that resemble squamous cell carcinoma• Keratoacanthoma• Eczema/atopicdermatitis• Contactdermatitis• Psoriasis• SeborrheicdermatitisBenign skin lesions that resemble malignant melanoma• Seborrheickeratosis (age spots/barnacles)• Solarlentigines (sunspots/liver spots)• Melanocyticnevi• Lentigines(freckles)• Bluenevi• PigmentedbasalcellcarcinomaBenign tumors• Epidermoid• Lipomas• Cherryangiomas• Dermatofibromas

ConclusionSkin has changed in quality and depth through the years. The challenge in caring for the skin has developed be-yond oily, dry and combination skin types. The increase in skin lesions and abnormalities makes it necessary for skin care professionals to stay informed and be observant. When in doubt, it is best to refer the client to a physician. Be sure to document changes in your client’s skin for their safety and yours. Just as importantly, don’t neglect hav-ing your own skin checked for any ab-normal changes! A blemish could be



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AS AN ESTHETICIAN, WE SEE A WIDE VARIETY of skin conditions, along with a diverse array of client personalities. Throughout our day, we may see a bridal party of enthusiastic girlfriends celebrating the next step in a woman’s life. But later we may have a more introspective guest, a woman whose demeanor is solemn and quiet. You can see in her eyes that something is not quite right. You look again and are even more sure of your instinct; clearly this client’s visit is about more than just wanting a good facial. You welcome her into your treatment room, your sanctuary of love and healing, and gently ask her about her skin needs.

As she becomes more comfortable, the flood-gates open up. As her story spills out, she reveals the dismay, shock and pain she and her family are going through. She is 42 years old, a mother of two young children, and she has breast can-

cer. She explains that she decided to book this facial on a whim, but she knew that she needed additional care. She says that as soon as she sat down in your spa, she felt relaxed for the first time in months.

Have you heard a story similar to this from a client before? Guests will often “unload” their stories, whether they are going through an ill-ness, job loss, divorce or any number of other life stressors that have consumed them. They look to you and your hands as the key to re-moving the hurt and stress of life, along with restoring the health of their skin.

As therapists, we have tools that are spe-cifically designed to assist in relaxation, which we can use to enhance our services. Make your treatment room the ultimate sanctuary for guests to unwind and de-stress.

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skin|the facial room

Halotherapy is a treatment that is gaining momentum, and many resort spas are now creating salt rooms for their guests. The Aria Resort in Las Vegas, NV created a salt medita-tion room that includes a wall of illuminated salt bricks which encourage the healing of skin irri-tations and upper respiratory problems. The air leaves clients with radiant and dewy skin, while salt lamps and lounge chairs provide vibration therapy in rhythm to soothing music.

Halotherapy assists the healing of irritated skin, reduces upper respiratory problems, improves im-munity and encourages relaxation. Breathe Salt & Yoga in Jupiter, FL offers three salt lounges; each has been meticulously designed to enhance the treatment experience. Guests can also be in the quiet Relaxation Room while the young ones romp around in the fun Children/Family room. There is also a one-of-a-kind Yoga Room.

Breathe Salt & Yoga created the salt lounges to be a place where people could experience the benefits of salt therapy. Estheticians and spas that don’t have the space to offer a salt meditation lounge can instead have salt lamps, salt soap and a Salt Suite Feet treatment as an add-on service for a facial.

During a facial, offer a beneficial salt therapy treatment for the feet while the client’s mask is on.

Needed: Bowl, pitcher, two towels• Placeatowelattheendofthetreatment

table before the service.• Addwarmwatertothebowl,withone

tablespoon of Dead Sea salt.

• Placethebowlontothetreatmenttableand gently submerge the client’s feet in the water. Soak for five minutes.

• Removetherightfootandapplyasaltscrub. With gentle movements, begin to exfoliate the bottom of the foot, and move up to the top of the leg. When finished, place the foot on a towel.

• Takeatowelfromahotcabinetandremovesalt scrub. Use caution not to use a towel that is too hot, as this can burn the soles.

• Mixtwotablespoonsofkaolinclayandapinch of Dead Sea salt. Mix, apply to foot and wrap in a warm, dry towel. Kaolin clay is gentle and nourishing.

• Repeatthesestepsontheotherfoot.• Cleanthebowlofwater,addfreshwarm

water, remove the towel and place the foot with the clay/salt mixture in the bowl. Cascade water from a pitcher over the foot and remove mask. Pat the foot dry and place it on the treatment table.

• Repeatontheotherfoot.• Applyhealingbalm,payingspecial

attention to any rough areas or cracks in the heels. Wash hands and resume the facial treatment.

Additional relaxation enhancementsColor and sound therapy are simple solutions to any treatment room. Colors interact with the human energy system in a unique way to sta-bilize physical, emotional, mental and spiritual conditions. Patients diagnosed with cancer feel a tremendous sense of peace and relief once they experience the positive effects of color therapy. Diseases such as cancer take a toll on the patient’s emotional state of mind; color therapy seeks to bring peace and help them cope with life in a stronger frame of mind.

Sound therapy harnesses the power of fre-quency and vibration to affect health and well-ness. It is an effective tool to help restore bal-ance in the body, alleviate pain and accelerate healing. Offer sound therapy with a high quality set of noise cancellation earphones for optimal listening. This is often a great retail product to help the guest continue with their spa service for an at-home stress reduction treatment.

continues

HALOTHERAPY ASSISTS THE HEALING OF

IRRITATED SKIN, REDUCES UPPER

RESPIRATORY PROBLEMS,

IMPROVES IMMUNITY AND

ENCOURAGES RELAXATION.

The Spa & Salon at Aria Salt Room

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Gemstone therapyMy favorite gemstone is rose quartz. I am continually drawn to these beautiful stones, which soothe irritated and inflamed skin and help to balance emotions, making them especially helpful in dissipating anger and tension.

Incorporate emeralds into your facials and treatments for clients who are undergoing chemotherapy. Emeralds are good at targeting and drawing out radiation toxicity.

Turquoise is considered to be the master healer of all stones, which protects against environmental pollutants, strengthens the body, guards against all disease, improves

absorption of nutrients and aids tis-sue regeneration.

Malachite stone is considered to be regenerative, and works on blocked energy. Many energy workers and therapists view tumors as blocked energy that has been trapped—and is now causing physical pain. Malachite helps get the flow of energy moving through the body again.

Stone facial tipsFor stone facials, work with more than one stone, preferably three. Following the gemstone massage, you can place a stone in each hand, over the heart chakra and continue with your facial. If your client is comfortable with this therapy, encourage placement of the stone over the diseased area.

Move slowly and gently, as sudden moves can startle your guest. Clients with an illness may have fragile skin and bruise easily, so avoid any services using tapotement with stones; stick to long, effleurage movements. Include a massage me-dium such as cream or oil. I prefer rosehip oil, as it is incred-ibly healing. Keep in mind that stones can be slippery, and you don’t want them shooting out of your hand and across the room, hitting your client or falling on the floor. Practice a few times on your own before working on a paying client.

A spa can become a sanctuary for our clients in the midst of a crisis; it is up to us to provide an atmosphere that offers stress-relieving services that give our guests a sense of well-being and comfort. Take notice of how your treatment room is set up. Is it inviting and comforting? Every guest should be offered the ultimate in service, therapeutic results, kindness and love by a warm and empathetic esthetician. Create a treatment room that will be your guests’ inner sanctum of healing. n

Denise R. Fuller is the editorinchief of Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa. She is an Australian certified beauty therapist and a licensed esthetician, nail technician and body wrapping instructor for the state of Florida. She has trained spa professionals around the world, owned a skin care distribution company and has been recognized by Cambridge Who’s Who. Fuller founded the National Aesthetic Spa Network, and she is passionate about building relationships, developing partnerships, mentoring and networking to create a stronger industry.

skin|the facial room


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CANCER PATIENTS DEAL WITH many different skin conditions due to the disease itself, treatments they re-ceive and medications they take. The skin is extremely compromised. Looking at skin care labels can be daunting for the esthetician on a daily basis. However, we need to be extremely careful when dealing with someone undergoing treat-ment to make sure we are not adding ingredients that may cause further ir-ritation or harm. Anthocyanins, poly-phenols and flavonoids are important ingredients that are increasingly used in today’s skin care. There are many stud-ies that show their positive benefits for skins challenged with cancer and other health issues.

These three types of extractions are considered the “mega extract” from fruits and plants of certain colors. They are the “heart” of the key molecules that contain the specialized antioxidants from a particular fruit or plant. The deeper the color of the plant, the stronger the antioxidant power.

These key molecules are antioxidants that a plant uses to protect itself from UV radiation, fungal infections, environmen-tal stress and even climates with extreme

temperatures and conditions. If these are able to protect the plant, imagine how exciting it is to transfer the same concept to the skin care of someone un-dergoing treatment and the skin condi-tions that come with it. These conditions

may include, but are not limited to the following: dry, itchy, rash, photosensi-tive, immune compromised, pustules/papules and hyperpigmentation.

RED ALGAE: Algae is found in the oceans, near the shore area of rocks with rough surfaces. It’s actually green in the early stages of growth, and becomes a purplish-red as it matures. Its polyphenol and flavonoid extracts are considered highly effective against DNA damaging UV sun exposure. Red algae has several other benefits that can help compro-mised skin, including antioxidant, anti-bacterial, anti-microbial, antibiotic and free radical fighting properties.

JOJOBA OIL: Jojoba oil is actu-ally a liquid wax derived from a jojoba seed. Persons undergoing any kind of

cancer treatments particularly need the skin to be hydrated and moisturized. The molecular structure of jojoba oil is the closest to our own skin’s sebum, which allows it to be easily absorbed and to restore the skin’s natural oil balance

without clogging pores. Jojoba oil con-tains polyphenols of approximately 3% tannins and 0.5% phytosterols, which will help reduce inflammation and itchi-ness. Jojoba oil has other benefits that can help fragile skin, including antibac-terial, anti-microbial, anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, anti-aging, anti-viral and free-radical fighting properties.

BLACK RICE: Depending on the extraction point of the plant, black rice contains anthocyanins, polyphenols and flavonoids. Recent studies have reported that an anthocyanin-rich extract from black rice inhibits breast cancer cell growth (taken internally). Based on its internal abilities, black rice is starting to appear in topical products for its anti-oxidant properties and to help reduce

by Kris Campbell

scrutinizing labels

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By offering UV protection, antioxidant and antibacterial properties, many of the skin

conditions that arise can be calmed.

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inflammation. Black rice has several other benefits that can help someone diag-nosed with cancer, including anti-viral, antibacterial, antioxidant, anti-aging, UV protection, moisturizing, anti-microbial and free-radical fighting properties.

GREEN TEA: Green tea contains high levels of polyphenols. Studies have shown that it may help certain types of cancer. The most potent one is epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG) (some-times called epigallocatechin-3-gal-late). EGCG has several other benefits that can help someone with sensitive and fragile skin, including anti-viral, antioxidant, antibacterial, antimicro-bial, anticarcinogenic, anti-aging, anti-inflammatory and free-radical fighting properties, as well as UV protection.

BROCCOLI: Polyphenols, flavonoids, and anthocyanins can all be extracted from broccoli. Studies on the benefits

of broccoli, both internal and exter-nal, have shown that it can strengthen health challenged skin. There is also evidence of positive results with UV pro-tection from broccoli when it is added to a topical formulation. Broccoli has several other benefits that can help someone with challenged skin, includ-ing: antioxidant, anti-microbial, antibac-terial, anti-inflammatory, anti-allergic, anti-viral, anti-aging, hydrating and free-radical fighting properties, as well as UV protection.

Anthocyanins, polyphenols and fla-vonoids seem to be a great new class of ingredients that cover a broader spec-trum of the needs that affect this group. By offering UV protection, antioxidant and antibacterial properties, many of the skin conditions that arise can be calmed. These types of ingredients also offer anti-aging properties that every-one looks for in skin care. As a person moves out of the treatment phase into a

recovery phase, their skin will have new challenges. Skin will not be exactly as it once was, but it will actually have what is called a “new normal” skin type. The body, including the skin, may function differently after treatment since it had to adapt to the changes.

Every professional needs to close-ly scrutinize all treatments and prod-ucts for whatever challenges a client may have, including cancer. n

Kris Campbell is an esthetician and the CEO of Tecniche™. She has worked for a cosmeceutical laboratory for the FDA, and is passionate about helping individuals with skin affected by health issues or sensitivity. Campbell is enthusiastic about training, speaking and writing on the topic of health challenged skin (including oncology esthetics), as well as product development.

skin|oncology ingredients

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BY KRISTA BOURNE

DECIPHERINGPUTTING CLINICAL

TRIALS TO THE TEST

HERE YOU ARE: A NEWLY LICENSED esthetician, fresh out of esthetic school. Or maybe you are an experienced esthetician with several years behind the esthetic table under your belt, and it’s time to make a very important, informed decision about bringing in the best skin care line suited to your clientele and skin care focus. You’ve thoroughly read all the slick marketing claims and waded through the pretty packag-ing options. You’ve slapped and spread and sniffed each lovely sample you received on your own skin (and a few willing friends). You’ve even closely scrutinized each product’s ingredient list. But you still can’t make a decision.

How do you make sure that you choose the best option? How do you ensure you are choos-ing a product that actually lives up to the active ingredient marketing claims and gives your clien-tele the visible results they desire?

The easiest way to separate the wheat from the chaff in the cosmeceutical market is to look for products that have authentic clinical study or clinical trial information. This is very differ-ent than seeing the phrases, “dermatologist tested” or “clinically tested.” I’m talking about an actual clinical study on the product line you are interested in, with real study data that is readily available for you to see.

Because the FDA does not require cosmetic companies to prove their claims, few compa-nies do conduct costly clinical studies. It can also be difficult to obtain actual clinical study data, as many companies conducting studies do not publish results or make the data readily accessible. Cosmetic companies also have to be careful of the very fine line between a cos-metic that shows activity in the skin and a drug, which has the ability to change skin biologically.

The proof for evidence-based science con-sists of human clinical trials that follow a pre-defined protocol to test how well it works on

people. This is what is accepted as unbiased proof of effectiveness for specific diseases or conditions. Clinical trials are important to help distinguish true efficacy based on statistical sig-nificance. The goal is to have a 95 percent or higher probability of the same result occurring each time the study takes place.

You might be thinking, “Wait a minute, I’m an esthetician, and as much as I love to learn about ingredients, I’m no scientist.” You have no idea what to do with study data once it’s in your hands. Phrases like “P-value” and “statistical significance” could be words spoken in Swahili for all you know. This article will help you solve the mystery of interpreting clinical study data.

The gold standard for cosmetic clinical test-ing would closely resemble a Phase 1 clinical trial the FDA conducts for new drugs. Look for the terms double-blinded, prospective, ran-domized, controlled human clinical trial against placebo or an approved prescription product, conducted by a third party research group with the finished formula. The focus of Phase 1 drug trials includes understanding drug metabolism, the relationship between structure and activity, mechanism of action, side effects associated with increasing doses and potentially discover-ing early evidence of effectiveness and safety.

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DOUBLE BLIND STUDIES



What do the terms mean, and why do they matter?Here are common terms you will see when analyzing data:Open label vs. single blind vs. double blind: In open label studies, both the patient and the re-searcher know which treatment is received; whether it is X or Y. In single blind studies, the patient does not know whether he is getting X or Y, but the researcher does. In double blind studies, neither the patient nor the researcher knows which treat-ment is received.

Prospective vs. retrospective: Prospective studies gather data as the trial takes place. Retro-spective studies gather data after the trial is com-pleted to see if there is any correlation related to the outcome. Bias is more common in retro-spective studies than it is in prospective studies.

Randomization: In randomized trials, a com-puter randomly selects which patients receive the test and which ones receive the control.

Controlled: There is a comparison group. One group receives a placebo, a treatment or no treatment.

In vitro vs. in vivo: In vitro trials are conducted via test tube or petri dish in a laboratory envi-ronment. In vivo trials involve actual human or animal skin at small, localized sites.

Single center vs. multi-center: At a single cen-ter trial, there is only one researcher running the study at one clinic. At a multi-center trial, there is more than one research site involved in the study to test climactic and geographical differences.

Split face or full face parallel: One half of the face receives the test product, and the other half gets the control product in the split face. In a full face parallel, a portion of the study panel-ists received tested material, and other patients received a placebo or active control. Split face uses fewer people to reach statistically signifi-cant results. In full face parallels, both groups are tested at the same time. Full face parallel is the type of study required by the FDA.

There are three things you are looking for in the study results:

P-value: This value is a measure of prob-ability. For example, a p-value of <0.05 is the measure of probability when the study produces the same result 95 percent of the time if the clinical study is conducted 100 times. A p-value of 0.10 means the same result would occur 90 percent of the time.

Statistically significant: There is enough dif-ference between the two products to produce a predictable result. The smaller the p-value, the more significant the result is said to be. A “trend” toward statistical significance is 90 percent predict-ability, or a p-value of <0.10. So, if one product is said to be statistically superior to another prod-uct, then more than 95 percent of the time this product will continue to be superior to the other.

Statistically vs. numerically superior: Simply because a raw numerical score is superior does not mean there is a clinical, reproducible differ-ence between the two products.

The bottom line is to find the p-value in the results section. If the p-value is not mentioned in the results, or if the p-value is higher than 0.05, then the clinical data is not scientifically strong enough to support claims that the product works.

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IN VITRO TRIALS ARE CONDUCTED VIA TEST TUBE OR PETRI DISH IN A LABORATORY ENVIRONMENT.

IN VIVO TRIALS INVOLVE ACTUAL HUMAN OR ANIMAL SKIN AT SMALL, LOCALIZED SITES.

skin|deciphering double blind studies




More questions you need to askThe more questions you ask, the easier it will be to make an informed decision.

1. What was studied, a single ingredient or the finished marketed formulation? Once a spe-cific ingredient is mixed into a multi-ingredient formula, does that ingredient maintain its tested activity? Is the biologically active or therapeu-tic range of the ingredient known, and is that concentration used in this cosmeceutical? Only gold standard testing can truly prove the effects.

2. Was it tested in-vitro or in-vivo? Rarely does the in-vitro tested ingredient maintain activity or stability after mixing into a finished formulation. Is it then delivered at a high enough concentration to the targeted cell receptors in the skin for a therapeutic effect?

3. Who conducted the study? In-house laboratory studies often have a lesser chance of having truly objective data. Utilizing test-ing by the National Institute of Health (NIH) studying individual ingredients in vitro does not speak to the efficacy or safety of the ac-tual finished product being sold.

4. How long was the study conducted? For a trial to be relevant for affecting all skin cells, in-cluding melanocytes, the study must last a mini-mum of 12 weeks, but ideally it should last four to six months.

5. Were the studies controlled with a pla-cebo or prescription active? Or was it compared to an improvement from baseline? It is important to take the “placebo effect” out of the assessment.

6. How many subjects participated in the study? A product will probably not be effective in the market if statistically significant clinical results are not seen in a study with a minimum of 12 patients.

7. To what anatomic site was the product applied? The answer to this question is very sig-nificant if a company is asking you to believe that a product works on aging or facial skin. A study performed on the forearm, or another part of the body that does not have the same lipid ratios or concentrations in the skin of the face, would not necessarily produce the same results on facial skin.

8. Were the same parameters compared? This includes duration, time of year, frequency of use, climate, age of the patient and race.

9. Who analyzed the data? Look for der-matological reviewers or other expert investiga-tors. These individuals will know exactly what to look for and how to properly measure the data. A study claiming that its panelists saw a difference does not lend itself to any true sci-entific support if experts cannot determine any statistical change.

10. Has the data been accepted for peer re-view? Academic publication in a peer reviewed journal or discussed by the American Academy of Dermatology supports the scientific validity of the study, indicating that the results were meaningful for patients or clients.

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THE STUDY MUST LAST A MINIMUM

OF 12 WEEKS, BUT IDEALLY IT SHOULD LAST

FOUR TO SIX MONTHS.


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Again, because studies are not an FDA requirement, cosmetic companies are find-ing that clinical studies are the best way to stand out in a crowded, competitive market. Depending on the product regimen tested, a 12-week study could cost at least as much as a full page ad in a consumer magazine. It’s important to note whether a company’s mar-keting dollars are more devoted to advertising than scientific substantiation.

If the cosmeceutical line you are interest-ed in does have studies available, ask to see the data—or the publications in which the data was reported. Resources for published study data include professional peer-reviewed journals, such as the Journal of the American

Academy of Dermatology, Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, Skin & Aging or PCI Journal, which is targeted to estheticians.

Making the decision to carry a specific product line is always tough. With so many factors affecting the decision (like packaging, product education, minimum order require-ments, markups and shipping costs), deciding whether a product actually works should not have to be one of them. Anyone can create a compelling marketing story with words that sound scientific. Always keep in mind what you learned here, and make true scientific evidence a top priority. n

Krista Bourne is a licensed esthetician. She serves as the director of esthetics education at Episciences, Inc., the manufacturer of Epionce cosmeceutical products. Bourne and Dr. Carl Thornfeldt coauthored The New Ideal in Skin Health, a book published in January 2010.

skin|deciphering double blind studies

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MORE NEWS

SKIN CARE PRODUCTS AND TREATMENTS

SKIN

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SOOTHING SOLUTIONThe Comfort Cleansing Mousse from Christina cleans and soothes skin while maintaining essential moisture. The soap-free, non-irritating mousse gently removes stress-inducing impurities to reveal a radiant, healthy and youthful complexion, says the company.www.christina-cosmeceuticals.com

PERFECT PACKAGINGTONE by Bio-Therapeutic is now available in an 8 oz. size, ideal for retail sales. The powerful blend of amino acids and orange flower oil help to rebalance, calm and soothe the skin, says the company. www.bio-therapeutic.com

ADDRESSING DIVERSITY With the unparelleled growth of the ethnic market, African Americans and Asians are increasingly seeking services and products designed to address their unique skin care needs. Global Skin Solutions is a board certified dermatology endorsed corrective product line formulated for global skins.www.globalskin-solutions.com

PROTECTIVE PAPAYA The Revitalize: Therapeutic Papaya Mask Treatment Set from PCA SKIN® provides a powerful combination of papaya purée and fruit extracts from lemon, orange and apple to brighten a dull complexion and effectively reduce hyperkeratinized cells, leaving the skin with a healthy glow. Replenishing Gel and Calming Balm, both treatment enhancement products, soothe and calm while providing antioxidant protection post-procedure.www.pcaskin.com

PUT IT ALL TOGETHERClarisonic® introduces their new Acne Clarifying Collection, a gentle yet powerful one-step cleansing regimen that pairs the patented sonic technology of the Mia 2™ with the Acne Cleansing brush head and Acne Daily Clarifying Cleanser. www.Clarisonic.com/professional


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Page 56 • www.LNEONLINE.com

SKIN

NEW

S SUPER STATIONControl Corrective introduces the Control Facial Bar®, a profitable, all-inclusive, comprehensive facial treatment model designed

for easy set-up and use in spas. The Control Facial Bar offers skin care specialists a complete and attractive facial station that includes sleek hydraulic chairs, enough Control Corrective products for hundreds of treatments and an express treatment menu featuring six 20-minute facials. It is available in three order packages: The CC Micro Bar for stand-alone or small spaces, a CC Mini Bar for a mid-size duo facial station or a CC Bar Room, ideal for outfitting an entire spa. www.controlcorrective.com

SUN SAVVY SPRITZERDon’t let your clients slack off on sun protection just because summer is over! SAIAN’s Sunscreen Mist SPF 29 is a light, water-based formula that refreshes and soothes the skin, and is especially formulated for sensitive or acneic skin. It is perfect for use after laser treatments, chemical peels, microdermabrasion or plastic surgery, and offers complete protection from harmful UVA and UVB rays, says the company. www.saian.net

CLEAR AND CALMMurad’s Overnight Soothing Gel for red, irritated skin is an antioxidant-rich formula that soothes skin on contact. It works overnight to help reduce tenderness and irritation, improve the appearance of redness caused by acne and calm sunburned or sensitive skin. www.murad.com

FRESH APPEARANCELady Burd Cosmetics launches new packaging for the Men’s Skincare line with a new and improved masculine look. The Facial Scrub with Mandarin Orange and Aloe thoroughly exfoliates dead skin cells, infuses the skin with nutrients and reduces the appearance of fine lines. www.ladyburd.com

DYNAMIC FORMULADermclar recently launched its scientifically innovative Liposomes Serums Line, which combines the collagen stimulating benefit of peptides and the deeper dermal penetration

of liposomes, delivering true skin transformation, says the company. One of the products in the line is Descrem, formulated with glycolic acid and Chromabright™, a groundbreaking ingredient that prevents UV-induced skin damage in addition to its powerful brightening properties. www.dermclarusa.com


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WHEN I FIRST MOVED FROM New York City to sunny Florida years ago, I was excited to be able to enjoy the weather of the famous Sunshine State. Between working and traveling, I spent my time off relaxing under the sun’s rays. A friendship developed between myself and a spa owner, who offered me tanning sessions in her facility. She encouraged me to use it, saying it was a safe mode of tanning, and pointing out that the tanning process would actually be accelerated by the sessions. Because the tanning sessions were spa services, I felt safe.

Mind you, this experience was years ago, before the American Academy of Dermatology stated that indoor tanning was unsafe. Even so, how many clients today still feel the same way I did about the safety of tanning salons?

Despite my friend’s assurances and my own trust in the safety of a spa facil-ity, cancer entered my body and my life a few years later. Even though I had not spent many hours, days and years outside in the sun, I did not escape skin cancer. I was ashamed I had gotten it—I felt like I should have known better.

My cancer was squamous cell car-cinoma, a unique case of breast cancer that is not the typical type you often hear about. It is skin cancer on the breast. Construction workers, lifeguards and people who do any other kind of outdoor work with no shirts on are more suscep-tible to it, as are many people who love the outdoors and the sunshine.

My breast skin cancer started with a small raised brown dot, which resembled the colored candy dots that you see on cupcakes and birthday cakes. This can-cerous blemish was located near the areola, and seemed to pop up out of nowhere. I felt no discomfort or pain.

When the biopsy returned positive, the dermatologist said I should have a plastic surgeon surgically remove it be-cause it was in such a delicate area. Moh’s surgery was recommended. When I was getting dressed to go to the hospital on the morning of the surgery, I found yet another spot on the same right breast, a few spaces away from the first. Terrified, I showed the doctor the second one that had appeared. Both of the cancerous le-gions were removed, and both left scars.

After the surgery and follow up ther-apy, I was free of skin cancer. Now I rarely expose myself to the sun, despite still living in Florida. I apply sunscreen to my face and body as part of my daily beauty routine.

As a beauty therapist, I have been on a mission for several years now, and tell my entire clientele—both male and female—about this form of cancer. I want to educate them on the dangers of skin cancer. Clients have said that they are tan-ning to attract a man or to appear thinner. Discourage tanning beds, and offer retail and service alternatives.

Retail a line of sunscreens, sunless tanners, tan towelettes and lip care with UV protection.

I have also showed the chart pictured above to my clients so they know what types of suspicious looking marks to be

by Noreen Young

spa cancer on the breast

aware of. As licensed professionals, we need to encourage our clients to get regular skin checkups. This suggestion may save their life!

Your clients may not even notice that an unusual mole has appeared on their skin. Skin cancer isn’t always on the face, arms or hands. For many, the spots ap-pear on different locations of the body. Your client may not see them or realize they are in danger.

You are not diagnosing; you are en-couraging your clients to be responsi-ble about their health by having annual mole checkups. I learned a valuable les-son, and I am grateful that things turned out well for me in the end. This experi-ence is one that I never want to repeat! Protection is essential to living a long life with healthy skin. n

Noreen Young is a makeup artist and sought after speaker in the salon/spa industry. She has worked with designer Diane Von Furstenberg, actor Martin Short and many sports professionals and other celebrities. Her experience includes work on Larry King Live and several television networks. Young released a makeup and skin care DVD entitled Diamonds Aren’t a Girl’s Best Friend … Makeup Is! For more information, call 904.739.2560.

the ABCDEs of melanoma courtesy of the American Academy of Dermatology



“FIRST, DO NO HARM.” THESE ARE the words that inspired me to create my niche as an oncology massage therapist.

All too often, I hear patients share horror stories about bad experiences they have had with massage services. That is why it became my mission to create a basic oncology massage train-ing program. I wanted to ensure that cancer survivors could find a spa that realized the importance of the “First, Do No Harm” principle, and that every patient deserves the benefits of touch.

Cancer treatments can last for years, and oncology massage addresses the effects of cancer on the body, as well as the side effects caused by cancer treat-ment. Whether it is breast cancer, mul-tiple myeloma, lymphoma or leukemia, gynecological cancers or bone cancers, oncology massage offers physical and emotional support.

Time away from treatment helps re-store and revitalize patients. Comfort oriented massage can help with the side effects of anxiety, fatigue and some-times pain.

My role as an oncology massage therapist at Memorial Cancer Institute includes offering massage to patients

throughout their cancer treatment into survivorship, and educating patients on the importance of seeking massage ther-apists with oncology training. “For many of our patients, any visit to the office, whether for active treatment or follow-up, is extremely stressful,” says Aruna Mani, M.D., a medical oncologist at Memorial Breast Cancer Center. “Having a quick

onsite massage and a few words of en-couragement is enormously beneficial for the emotional health of our patients. Beyond this, Toni has been able to pro-vide tips for management of post-oper-ative pain and restricted range of mo-tion long after active physical therapy has ended, and many find it helpful to regain function at home.”

Comfort-oriented oncology mas-sage training should cover a broad va-riety of topics:• Basicfactsaboutcancer.• Mythsversustruthsregarding

massage and cancer. • Cancertreatments:surgery,che-

motherapy, radiation treatment and biological hormonal therapy.

• Longandshort-termside effects of cancer treatments.

• Communicationskills.• Intake forms.• Hands-onpractice,includ-

ing massage, assessments and modifications.

• Riskpreventionand education for lymph edema.

• Emotionalcopingskillsforbothpatient and massage therapist.

• Researchonthebenefitsofmas-sage for patients in treatment.

• Resourcesand networking information.

• Self-carestrategies to prevent burnout.

• Self-carehomework for the patient.

• Assessingthesafetyof spa techniques and products.

Medications and cancer treatments are forever changing, and the Internet is a great resource for researching che-motherapies and other medications.

by Toni Muirhead

oncology massage

spa|

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Modifications to prevent lymph edema are a key component of oncology massage treatments, as is educating your clients on how they themselves can

help minimize their risk of developing lymph edema.

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For example, an online search will tell you that some drugs cause rashes, heart problems, blood clots, connective tissue damage and chemotherapy-induced peripheral neuropathy. Long-term side effects may include osteoporosis and fibrotic tissue near surgical sites.

Massage modifications must be made to enhance a survivor’s well-be-ing during and after treatment.

Breast cancer surgery may cause the patient’s shoulders to rotate in-ward, the back to stoop over and pain to develop in the neck once they are back to work. Oncology massage and gentle stretching works within the guidelines of the post-operative recov-ery, allowing a patient to return to the normal range of motion more quickly and without injury.

Radiation and nodal dissection cre-ate a risk for lymph edema. Modifications to prevent lymph edema are a key com-ponent of oncology massage treat-ments, as is educating your client on how they themselves can help minimize their risk of developing lymph edema.

A safe massage in a beautiful spa is a wonderful respite for body and soul. I routinely hear from spa owners and massage therapists about their interest in adding oncology massage to their spa menu. However, they voice con-cerns about working with oncology cli-ents. These include not having enough time to get proper intakes; patients not being forthright with their medical his-tory; clients that demand deep work; and legal disclaimers that restrict clients from receiving spa treatments “unless they have been out of treatment for one year.” Spa owners state that they see the importance of training, yet they are reluctant to train staff out of concern that they will take the knowledge elsewhere. Patient safety and training feasibility

can be major roadblocks for both the massage therapist and the spa owner.

Monika Norman, owner of Spa Esoteric in Mckinney, TX hosted a train-ing class for her employees and other local massage therapists. Patients in treatment have been very grateful to have access to a safe spa that gives them peace of mind when they come for their massages.

When real life scenarios are dis-cussed in oncology massage trainings, seasoned massage therapists have an opportunity to brainstorm ways that on-cology massage can be incorporated into the spa setting. Some of these pos-sibilities include:• Designinga30-minutemassage

for the patient who cannot toler-ate and/or afford an hour-long massage.

• Creatingprogramsthatallowpatients and caregivers to enjoy reduced prices for services during specific times.

• Providinganenvironmentthatisfree of intense fragrances.

• Closeproximitytorestrooms.• Ensuringexceptionalsanitationof

linens and equipment.• Beingcognizantofcopingskills

and boundaries, in regards to the emotional issues that come along with cancer. Discussing these topics allows class

participants to have a better understand-ing of what it takes to provide services to oncology patients in a spa setting.

Spa providers are experts at offer-ing healing environments to help their clients find relaxation and restoration. Waterfalls, beautiful gardens, aroma-therapy, music, lighting, calm voices ... the intent is magical and meant to make one relax. I truly see spas as the “first responders” for patients. Jennifer

Amato, the medical sales executive of Oncology Massage Advocate Forever, has been an enthusiastic messenger for educating spas about offering safe massage services for cancer survivors. “Proper oncology massage protocols are realistic approaches to effectively support patients in cancer treatment; mind, body and spiritual,” she explains. “I was inspired to join in this call to action through my personal experience of see-ing my late father suffer from improper and harmful massage treatment.”

While many hospitals believe in this approach to care, they are frequently unable to fund the much needed ser-vice. When local spas partner with local cancer centers, it is a win-win for all. Spas can offer a loving atmosphere of attentiveness and acceptance. Now, all that is needed to complete the circle of healing is staff training. n

Antoinette Muirhead initiated the out-patient massage program at Memorial West Cancer Center. She is also a patient advocate, and has taken part in numerous patient advoca-cy conferences, including the Living Beyond Breast Cancer conference for the past five years. To learn about her oncology massage training in the spa setting, visit www.tonimuirhead.com.

spa|oncology massage

While many hospitals believe in this approach to care, they are frequently unable to fund the much needed service. When local spas partner with local cancer centers, it is a win-win for all.

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http://www.tonimuirhead.com


1. Rose-Jasmine Moisturizing MilkFLEUR’Swww.lespausa.com

l ww5.komen.org

2. Lemon Oat Goat’s Milk Soap Beauty BarBOTANOLUTIONwww.botanolution.com

3. Cucumber SpritzRHONDA ALLISONwww.rhondaallison.com

4. Taheebo Nail BalmTECNICHEwww.tecniche.com

5. Skin CreamMY GIRLS SKIN CAREwww.mygirlscream.com

6. Pink Ribbon ParrafinAMBER PRODUCTSwww.amberproducts.com

l ww5.komen.org

l standup2cancer.org

7. Whoopie Cream With Shea ButterFARMHOUSE FRESHwww.farmhousefreshgoods.com

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breast cancerawareness IN YOUR

SPA

l charities donated to

http://www.lespausa.com

http://www.botanolution.com

http://www.rhondaallison.com

http://www.tecniche.com

http://www.mygirlscream.com

http://www.amberproducts.com

http://www.farmhousefreshgoods.com

8. Pomegranate Massage CreamLE MIEUXwww.lemieuxcosmetics.com

9. Skin CrémeCAROLLA’S BEESWAXwww.carollas.com

10. Pink Marbacka Bath & Body WashTERRA DOLCEwww.terradolcespa.com

11. Pink StickRINSE BATH & BODY CO.www.rinsesoap.com

12. Cherry Marzipan Anti-Aging Hand & Body LotionBUBALINAwww.skin-organics.com

13. Pampered TempleSIMI ESSENTIALSwww.simiessentials.com

14. Mild Citrus Face CleanserC’EST BON ORGANICSwww.cestbonorganics.com

15. Revitalizing LotionPROVENCE COSMETICSwww.provencecosmetics.com

16. Aromatic Body Lotion Plus Ylang Ylang + Vanilla PlanifoliaPURE PLANT SPA www.pureplantspa.com

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BREAST CANCER AWARENESS MONTH in October is a chance for us all to make a positive impact in the fight against a disease that affects the lives of thousands of women, men and the ones they love each year. This special photo feature highlights items for which proceeds are donated to the cause, as well as products that meet the unique needs of cancer patients. Stock your backbar and retail shelves with these special items to show your support for this worthy cause!

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http://www.lemieuxcosmetics.com

http://www.carollas.com

http://www.terradolcespa.com

http://www.skin-organics.com

http://www.simiessentials.com

http://www.cestbonorganics.com

http://www.provencecosmetics.com

http://www.pureplantspa.com


1. Hydrating MistTARA SPA THERAPYwww.taraspa.com

2. Magic OilBRIGIT TRUE ORGANICSwww.brigittrueorganics.com

3. Pomegranate Breast Massage OilDIAMOND WAY AYURVEDAwww.diamondwayayurveda.com

4. All-in-one Body OilHUMAN + KINDwww.humanandkind.com

5. Active Vitamin D Serum-OilDR. DENNIS GROSS SKINCAREwww.dgskincare.com

6. Body OilKNEIPPwww.kneippus.com

7. Organic Kukui Sensitive Facial Oil TreatmentLILY FARM FRESH SKIN CAREwww.lilyorganics.com

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http://www.taraspa.com

http://www.brigittrueorganics.com

http://www.diamondwayayurveda.com

http://www.humanandkind.com

http://www.dgskincare.com

http://www.kneippus.com

http://www.lilyorganics.com


8. Herb Rich SerumDE LA TERRE SKINCAREwww.delaterreskincare.com

9. Herbal Recovery OilÉMINENCE ORGANIC SKIN CAREwww.eminenceorganics.com

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10. Renew Anti-Aging SerumIMMUNO-VIVAwww.immunoviva.com

11. Ageless Eyes Revitalizing Eye SerumSEVANIwww.sevanibeauty.com

12. Sultan’s Secret Nourishing Oil With ArganFLEUR’Swww.lespausa.com

l ww5.komen.org

13. Moroccan Argan OilSHEA TERRAwww.sheaterraorganics.com

breast cancer awareness in your spa


http://www.delaterreskincare.com

http://www.eminenceorganics.com

http://www.immunoviva.com

http://www.sevanibeauty.com

http://www.lespausa.com

http://www.sheaterraorganics.com


1. The Pink KitHYDROPEPTIDEwww.hydropeptide.com

l www.lookgoodfeelbetter.org

2. Eyelash Renewal SerumRAPIDLASHwww.rapidlash.com

l ww5.komen.org

l www.cancer.org

3. Ultra Eyelash ConditionerLUKSUS COSMETICSwww.luksuscosmetics.com

4. Double Trouble MascaraLASHEMwww.lashem.com

5. MascaraBLINC COSMETICSwww.blincinc.com

l www.cancer.org

6. Eyelash ConditionerLASHFOODwww.lashfood.com

7. Eyelash ConditionerREVITALASHwww.revitalash.com

l www.avonfoundation.org

8. Cherish Lip FixationJANE IREDALE—THE SKIN CARE MAKEUPwww.janeiredale.com

l www.lbbc.org

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http://www.hydropeptide.com

http://www.lookgoodfeelbetter.org

http://www.rapidlash.com

http://www.cancer.org

http://www.luksuscosmetics.com

http://www.lashem.com

http://www.blincinc.com


http://www.lashfood.com

http://www.revitalash.com

http://www.avonfoundation.org

http://www.janeiredale.com

http://www.lbbc.org


9. Hydro Dynamic Ultra MoisturizerMURADwww.murad.com

l www.cityofhope.org

10. Rehydrating Lip GlazeAVEDAwww.aveda.com

11. Hydra Firm Eye & Lip GelLOTUS MOONwww.smbessentials.com

12. Line Fix Gel EyelinerCAILYN COSMETICSwww.cailyncosmetics.com

13. 23 Karat Intensive Eye TreatmentYÜM GOURMET SKINCAREwww.yumskincare.com

14. Pink of Hearts Nail LacquerO.P.I.www.opi.com

l www.breastcancercampaign.org

15. Rejuvenating Day Eye CreamCHRISTINAwww.christina-cosmeceuticals.com

16. Liquid Eye LinerMINERALOGIEwww.mineralogie.biz

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http://www.murad.com

http://www.cityofhope.org

http://www.aveda.com

http://www.smbessentials.com

http://www.cailyncosmetics.com

http://www.yumskincare.com

http://www.opi.com

http://www.breastcancercampaign.org

http://www.christina-cosmeceuticals.com

http://www.mineralogie.biz

1. Extreme CreamDERMAWAREwww.dermaware.com

2. BIO Restore Crème With CaviarLIRA CLINICALwww.liraclinical.com

l ww5.komen.org

3. Anti Wrinkle Face RefinerNATURE PURE www.naturepure.com

4. Smooth Radiance Face TreatmentMEG 21www.meg21.com

5. Poly Vitamin SerumIS CLINICALwww.isclinical.com

l www.breastcancerdeadline2020.org

l www.iscancercare.com

6. Sensitivity Corrective ComplexMD CORRECTIVE CAREwww.mdcorrectivecare.com

7. Skin Nourishing BalmCONTROL CORRECTIVEwww.controlcorrective.com

8. Liposomal Growth Factor SerumOSMOSIS SKINCAREwww.osmosisskincare.com

9. The Solution for Chemotherapy and Radiation Support Kit PCA SKINwww.pcaskin.com

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http://www.dermaware.com

http://www.liraclinical.com

http://www.naturepure.com

http://www.meg21.com

http://www.isclinical.com

http://www.breastcancerdeadline2020.org

http://www.iscancercare.com

http://www.mdcorrectivecare.com

http://www.controlcorrective.com

http://www.osmosisskincare.com

http://www.pcaskin.com


10. Hydraskin EssentialDARPHINwww.darphin.com

l www.bcrfcure.org

11. Advanced Recovery CreamADVANCED REJUVENATING CONCEPTSwww.arcskincare.com

12. Facial Day MoisturizerORGANIC OLIVE ESSENCEwww.organicoliveessence.com

13. A.C.E. Cream for Sensitive SkinSESHA SKIN THERAPYwww.seshaskin.com

14. Super Moisture CreamDERMAESTHETICSwww.dermaestheticsusa.com

15. Pure Grapefruit MoisturizerSHIRA ESTHETICSwww.shiraesthetics.com

l ww5.komen.org

16. Linden & Marigold Rejuvenating TreatmentILIKE ORGANIC SKINCARE www.szepelet.com

17. Nanosphere Plus Stem Cell SerumDERMASWISSwww.dermaswiss.com

l www.cancer.org

18. TiZO for Ultra Sensitive SkinFALLENE, LTD.www.fallene.com

19. RADX Moisture TherapyRADXwww.radxhelps.com

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http://www.darphin.com

http://www.bcrfcure.org

http://www.arcskincare.com

http://www.organicoliveessence.com

http://www.seshaskin.com

http://www.dermaestheticsusa.com

http://www.shiraesthetics.com

http://www.szepelet.com

http://www.dermaswiss.com


http://www.radxhelps.com

BY SAMUELLA BECKER

PAMPER ME

SOOTHING THE SIDE EFFECTS OF CHEMOTHERAPY AND RADIATION

OUR APPEARANCE IS IMPORTANT to us, which makes dealing with an ill-ness and its after effects all that much more stressful. Surgery, chemothera-py and radiation can take a toll on the body—inside and out.

Spas, with their focus on healing and wellness, provide the perfect en-vironment to revitalize the mind, body and spirit.

The Joanna Vargas Salon, Skin Care Sanctuary in New York City offers detoxi-fying spa treatments like lymphatic mas-sage and LED light therapy to reduce scarring after surgery. In the following interview, esthetician and owner Joanna Vargas explains which skin care products to use, ingredients to avoid and why the term “hydrate and soothe” should be a breast cancer survivor’s new mantra.

A healthy diet and good nutrition is more important than ever as one is un-dergoing cancer treatments. Yet keep-ing food down can be an issue. Sally Kravich, bicoastal holistic nutritionist, author of Vibrant Living, iridologist and consultant to spas across the country, offers soothing soup recipes on page 75 to help these clients cope with nau-sea and rebound appetites.

Joanna Vargas has been a licensed esthetician in the state of New York for 15 years, and her clientele spans the globe. Mumbai, Dubai, Rome, Tel Aviv, Paris, London and Los Angeles are all ports of call for her. She is cer-tified in manual lymphatic drain-age by the renowned Dr. Vodder School International.InNovemberof2006,she officially opened the doors to her namesake salon on Manhattan’s Fifth Avenue and never looked back. She shares valuable insight on skin care tips and products for the cancer client.PINK p

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Q: Chemotherapy and radiation can leave a breast cancer pa-

tient’s skin dry, flaky, itchy and more sen-sitive to sunlight and wind. What skin care tips do you have regarding prod-uct selection?

JV: During and after a client’s can-cer treatment, I would seek out

any products that are simple, with very few ingredients. You want to make sure you understand what you are putting on their body, and then if your client has any type of reaction to a product, you can quickly figure out the cause of the irritation. I would avoid anything artificial in nature, whether it be an ingredient or an added fragrance. Anything less than 100percentnaturalandorganicwouldnot be acceptable. You only want to use products that are soothing to the skin. To treat any other skin problem would be premature. Many things about the skin will improve on their own as the body heals. Its biggest problem will be irrita-tion due to the treatment, so you want to just address that alone. I would also avoid the temptation to exfoliate their skin. It may be flaky, but this is also a sign of skin sensitivity, rather than the need to exfoliate. ‘Hydrate and soothe’ should be your mantra for treating cancer clients.

Q: Are there any ingredients in particular to look for on the la-

bel? Such as larch tree extract—which is super hydrating for thirsty skin? Which organic and/or natural skin care brands in particular would you recommend?

JV: I would use products that con-tain shea butter, vitamin E, hy-

aluronic acid and aloe. All of these in-gredients really work well with the body to re-establish good moisture levels in the skin, and boost its ability to heal

itself as well as it did before the illness.

Q: What ingredients should be avoided?

JV: Chemical sunscreens are high-ly toxic and may affect the en-

docrine system. It is better to use physi-cal sunscreens like titanium and zinc.

Formaldehyde is found in many per-sonal care products, and it is a known car-cinogen. It is used as a preservative in non-natural products, which is why I choose organic and natural products every time. Prolonged exposure does cause cancer, and at the minimum can cause dermatitis. Petrochemicals are highly toxic and can cause premature aging. Propylene gly-col can cause hives, eczema and dry skin!

Q: Breast reconstruction, even when performed by the best plastic

surgeons, can still leave scars. Is there any way to diminish the appearance of these physical reminders, which can lead to improved mental and emotional health?

JV: Many women use the LED light therapy bed to reduce

the visibility of scarring after surgery. Over time, many of the marks can be reduced dramatically. While a scar will never disappear completely, it softens with a series of weekly LED treatments. I would recommend between 12 and 24 sessions for this purpose.

Q: Lymphoedema, a condition in which excess fluid is retained

by the lymph nodes and causes swelling in the arms or legs, is a common con-dition that develops following breast cancer treatment. Since the lymphatic system plays an integral role in the body’s immune system, drainage is necessary. What treatments does your salon offer?

JV: Once your client is declared cancer-free, it is once again safe

to stimulate the lymphatic system. Their doctor will not let them do so before they have a clean bill of health. A nice, soothing lymphatic drainage massage for the face and neck (where the majority of your lymph nodes are) will do wonders to restore the healthy flow of the lymph throughout the body.

Q: October is Breast Cancer Aware-ness Month. How does your sa-

lon plan to ‘get into the pink?’

JV: ‘Best friends’ who have stood by a breast cancer patient/

survivorwillreceive$50offspaservicesfor the whole month.

Feed the soulSally Kravich is a bicoastal nutri-tional coach for female profes-sionals, celebri-ties and athletes,

enabling them to get red carpet ready and maintain optimal performance lev-els. For over 25 years, Kravich’s expertise has been cited in many publications for health and beauty, addressing women of all ages, and has even been said to prompt some “miracle” pregnancies.

During chemotherapy, many patients become nauseous, lack the proper rec-ommended daily intake of nutrients and experience overall discomfort. Kravich’s soup recipes have provided comfort-ing satisfaction for people with cancer who are undergoing chemotherapy and radiation to navigate through the side effects of treatment.

“Vegetables have healing qualities and nutrients,” Kravich explains. “The more sensitive someone’s stomach or digestive system is, the more they need cooked veg-etables and other cooked foods. Many oncologists will not allow vitamins in their patient’s daily regimen. However, they are open to nutritional foods.”

“ANYTHING LESS THAN 100 PERCENT NATURAL AND ORGANIC WOULD NOT BE ACCEPTABLE.

YOU ONLY WANT TO USE PRODUCTS THAT ARE SOOTHING TO THE SKIN.”

KRAVICH



Kravich’s soothing soup recipesOptional: Organic chicken and/or brown rice can be added to any of these recipes.HEALING SOUP 1 onion, peeled and diced

5-6 stalks celery, diced

1 bunch parsley, chopped without stems

4 large carrots, peeled and chopped

1 parsnip, peeled and chopped

1 celery root, peeled and diced

2 turnips, peeled and diced

4 zucchini, chopped into small pieces

1 small butternut squash, peeled and cut into small chunks

2 cubes of rapunzel vegan bouillon cubes (find at whole foods)1/2 gallon good water

This recipe makes a huge batch of soup. Leftovers can be frozen.

Add spices and sea salt according to your taste. I add a dash of nutmeg and thyme, a little paprika and pink Tibetan sea salt.

Pre-chop all the veggies and set out a big cooking pot. Over a medium flame, stir fry the onion with a little olive oil or grapeseed oil, followed by the celery. After they have become translucent, add in the chopped parsley. Next, toss in the hard veggies: carrots, parsnips, celery root and turnips. After they have soft-ened, add the sliced zucchini and finally the butternut squash. When the mixture becomes a thick stew, add 1 gallon of water and the bouillon cubes OR 1 quart of water and a box of organic “Pacific” chicken or organic vegetable broth. Simmeruncoveredfor45-60minutes.This makes enough soup for several days.

BUTTERNUT SQUASH SOUP1 cup diced carrots or apple

2 cups butternut squash, cooked and mashed

4 cups organic vegetable broth

1 tbs olive oil or butter

ginger and cinnamon to taste

Cut butternut squash into halves; reserve seeds. Place squash in covered glass baking dish; add ¼ cup of wa-ter and drizzle a little olive oil or 1 tsp of

butterontop.Bakeat350°for1hour.Scoop the inside pulp from the skin and mash. This should make about 2 cups.

While the squash bakes, steam 1 cup of diced carrots. Purée carrots and squash together. Add broth and spices. Heatonmediumlowfor10minutes.

ZUCCHINI SOUP1 bunch celery

2 bunches parsley

5-6 carrots

1 leek or onion 6 cloves garlic (optional)1 parsnip

6-8 zucchinis

1 yam or 1 cup butternut squash

2 rapunzel vegan boullion cubes or 1 box organic chicken or vegetable broth

Optional:Add2-3leavesofesca-role, collard greens or 2 bok choy bulbs.

You may add any other veggies you want. Add spices and sea salt accord-ing to your taste.

Pre-chop all the veggies. Get out a big cooking pot. Over a medium flame, stir fry or sauté the celery, garlic and leeks. When they become translucent, add in the chopped parsley. At this stage you can add chicken, if you wish.

Next, add in the hard veggies: car-rots, parsnip and yam. After they have softened, add in the sliced zucchini. The mixture will become a thick stew.

Add 1 gallon of water with the boul-lion cubes, or 1 quart of water and a box of organic chicken or vegetable broth. At this stage, you can add a handful of brown rice if you wish.

Cook uncovered on a low flame for 45-60minutes.Thismakesenoughsoupforat least 4-5 days. Leftovers can be frozen.

ROASTED WINTER VEGGIES 1 celery root, washed and peeled

1 butternut squash (peel and remove seeds)1 turnip, washed and peeled

1 sweet potato or yam (wash and leave peel on)1 beet, washed and peeled

2 parsnips (wash and peel)2-3 tbs olive oil 1 tsp nutmeg

salt and pepper (to taste)Dice all veggies into approximately

1 inch squares. In a small cup, mix olive oil and spices. Place diced vegetables in a large mixing bowl and add olive oil. Thoroughly saturate the veggies

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ROASTED VEGGIE SOUPPurée 2 cups of the leftover roasted veggies with 1 box of organic vegeta-ble broth (Pacific or Imagine). A little powdered rosemary can be added to bring out an aromatic flavor in the soup. Simmer on medium low heat for about 10minutesandserve.

Providing soothing services for your special guests can be achieved through the therapeutic touch of a therapist, and taking the time to integrate products, techniques, protocols, equipment and healthy edible options. When guests enter a spa, they appreciate the details. But when a guest who has just survived a major health crisis is welcomed with genuine warmth, compassion and all the elements of healing, the spa be-comes a place of refuge that they rely on to strengthen and restore their body, mind and spirit. n

Samuella Becker is the founder and CEO of TigressPR. She is especially pas-sionate about launching new businesses, which she did for the Joanna Vargas Salon, Skin Care Sanctuary in 2006. Other cur-rent clients in-clude The Actors Studio Drama School at Pace University, holistic nutritionist/au-thor Sally Kravich and the MIT Enterprise Forum of NYC. Learn more about Becker at LinkedIn.

spa|pamper me pink


with the oil, and place them in a large glassbakingdish.Cookat375°for45 minutes. For softer veggies, cook coveredfor30minutesanduncovered

for 15 minutes. This recipe makes a great addition to a holiday meal. The leftovers can be turned into a roasted veggie soup.

When a guest who has just survived a major health crisis

is welcomed with genuine warmth,

compassion and all the elements of healing, the spa becomes a

place of refuge.

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JO BELL ENTERED THE ROOM WITH a slightly anxious smile and carefully un-rolled the plans that her architect had justdrawnupforher3,500squarefootEuropean-inspired dream spa. The new facility would house a Vichy rain shower, an infrared sauna, three massage rooms, Italian tiled bathrooms and changing ar-eas, a dining area, multiple consultation rooms and a relaxation room with space for expansion upstairs. This dream had been years in the making—the seeds of whichwereplantedin2001inasmallrented space in an office complex in Villa Rica, GA. In those early days, Jo was the first person in the metro Atlanta area to offer detoxifying therapeutic inch loss body wraps at European Body Wrap. She had spent her days wrapping clients, then washing and rolling wraps when she got home at night. From the very begin-ning, she felt that the service she offered was divinely inspired. A higher power was leading her every step of the way as she proceeded into uncharted terri-tory, into an industry that had very little exposure in her small Georgia town. As Jo turned the pages of the spa’s build-ing plans, she recalled those early days with a smile, realizing that with every step of the journey, her faith had led

her to use the spa for more than just beauty services; it had enabled her to touch and heal her community. She had committed to do just that. By the time she set out to build on her own land, her one-woman body wrap operation had grown to employ several massage therapists, estheticians and a nail tech-nician. It had developed into an amaz-ing day spa.

That was five years ago. From the outset, Jo knew she wanted her busi-ness to be an oasis where the weary were always welcomed and blessed.

After much thought and meditation, Jo took that first step of faith and began what has become a very successful and well-received spa business, and it all began with a body wrap and a prayer.

Jo wanted to offer more than just a spa treatment; she wanted to extend healing by incorporating the gift of prayer into her services for her clients. The guests responded enthusiastically,

and started to request that she keep their family members in her prayers. Jo was thrilled at how the community responded to this faith-based action, and she began taking prayer requests through the spa’s website from spa go-ers all over the world. Her leap of faith became utilized throughout her entire facility as faith-based therapy. However Jo is aware that not all clients may want prayer included in their service, so she allows each client to lead and direct their service. Jo places the most im-portance on showing respect, love and kindness to each guest.

Jonowemploys16people,includ-ing her daughter, Crystal Bell Dempsey, a licensed esthetician who has worked alongside her mother in the business since she was a teenager. Her close friend Judy Kangas has served as spa manager at European Body Wrap for the past nine years. The entire staff at

by Marni Bell Federer

a higher calling, faith-based therapy

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RESULTS . . .ICES LONG BEACH | SEPTEMBER 9-10 | BOOTH #309

1.877.777.2305 | www.osmos i s sk incare.com

Osmosis guarantees it.Acne: Heal all stages of acne and significantly improve scarring

Hyperpigmentation: Permanently treat melasma and age spots

Rosacea: Clear and improve topical and internal causes of rosacea

Aging: Complete reversal of aging skin

The Permanent Solution for Most Hyperpigmentation Presented by Dr. Ben Johnson, Founder & CEO Date: Sunday, September 9, 2012Time: 2:00pm - 3:15pm Room: 103 A

Timeless Aging: Remarkable Scientific Breakthroughs Make It Possible Presented by Dr. Ben Johnson, Founder & CEO Date: Monday, September 10, 2012Time: 2:00pm - 3:15pm Room: 103 A

Osmosis guarantees to fix your client’s skin issues or your money back!

Does your sk incare company do that?


RESULTS . . .ICES LONG BEACH | SEPTEMBER 9-10 | BOOT H #309

1.877.777.2305 | www.osmos i s sk incare.com

Osmosis guarantees it.Acne: Heal all stages of acne and significantly improve scarring

Hyperpigmentation: Permanently treat melasma and age spots

Rosacea: Clear and improve topical and internal causes of rosacea

Aging: Complete reversal of aging skin

The Permanent Solution for Most Hyperpigmentation Presented by Dr. Ben Johnson, Founder & CEO Date: Sunday, September 9, 2012Time: 2:00pm - 3:15pm Room: 103 A

Timeless Aging: Remarkable Scientific Breakthroughs Make It Possible Presented by Dr. Ben Johnson, Founder & CEO Date: Monday, September 10, 2012Time: 2:00pm - 3:15pm Room: 103 A

Osmosis guarantees to fix your client’s skin issues or your money back!

Does your sk incare company do that?


http://www.osmosisskincare.com


European Body Wrap has become an extension of Jo’s family. They encour-age one another and foster an envi-ronment of love, peace and southern hospitality. They minister to others with their touch. For Jo, her spa has become more than she ever imagined it could be; it has become a wellspring of bless-ings for many.

The entire European Body Wrap team extends its charitable reach outside the doors of the spa. They are involved in many community outreach programs, such as the gift giving Angel Tree pro-

gram at Christmas. European Body Wrap’s involvement in this program demon-strates that love and a healing touch is shared by this spa through more than a massage; it is their mission to offer help and healing. Jo Bell has changed the landscape for the way spirituality is viewed in the spa.

Even though the spa is outside of Atlanta, many affluent clients travel to visit the spa due to the high level of service, peace and tranquility they experience.

Jo frequently tells her clients that “everything in here is a gift from above—I am just managing it while I am here.”

She has found that the key to suc-cess is much more than the bricks and mortar that make up her beautiful spa; the key is found in surrendering it all, and bringing light and love to her cli-ents and community.

Anyone who finds themselves in need of a holistic and healing touch, friendly conversation or respite from the

hectic pace of this life can be assured that they can find it all at European Body Wrap on South Carroll Road in Villa Rica, GA. The entire team loves to reach out, offer time honored spa therapies and whisper blessings of hope and heal-ing. For the European Body Wrap team, being able to offer faith based therapy to their clients and provide a serene sanctuary for the body, soul and spirit is truly a gift. n

Marni Bell Federer lives with her husband and three daughters in Bremen, GA. She earned her M.A. in English at the University of West Georgia in 2005, where she is currently a junior in the nursing program.

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MORE NEWS

BODY, EQUIPMENT AND SUPPLY PRODUCTS

SPA

NEW

STHERAPEUTIC HEAT Relax your clients’ trigger points and soothe sore muscles with Sassi Stones, rechargeable hot massage stones with built-in heating elements. They warm in less than a minute, and remain hot for up to two hours per charge. Only the bottom half of the stone heats up, ensuring comfort for the massage therapist while handling them. It can be used on the skin with minimal oils, lotions and creams or even over clothing. It includes two stones, two batteries and two AC chargers.www.sassistones.com

BUST BOOSTER Your clients can tone, firm and lift their bust with the help of the Toning Bust Gel from Phytomer. Specifically designed for the bust area, it has a light gel texture and contains active ingredients that regenerate the skin. The powerful marine ingredients leave the bust firmer and more lifted, says the company. During the month of October, Phytomer is donating a portion of proceeds from all body products purchased toward finding a cure for breast cancer. www.phytomerusa.com

GORGEOUS GLOWYour clients can create a gorgeous, sun kissed glow while helping the cause against breast cancer with the Special Edition Breast Cancer box from Fake Bake®. It contains the following: Babe Tools Lip Gloss, Flawless Self-Tan Liquid & Mitt and Bronzy Babe® Tinted Body Glow. A percentage of the sales are shared with the Doreen Frasier Breast Cancer Foundation, which finances research for women’s breast cancer.www.fakebake.com

TIGHTENING TREATMENT The Body Wrap System by DermaSwiss is an innovative alternative for body inch loss, toning, slimming, contouring and anti-cellulite treatments. The combination of creams (Body Exfoliant cream, Bio-Activator Gel, Booster Cream, Lifting Cream) and wraps (Booster and Firming) captures body heat during 45-minute sessions, triggering fat combustion and eliminating toxins through the lymphatic system. www.dermaswiss.com

HEALTHY HEALINGThe Recovery Ointment from Hanna Isul is a cosmetic rejuvenating and healing product formulated with aloe barbadensis leaf juice, shea butter, avocado oil and vitamins A, B, C, D and E. Among other benefits, it builds the skin’s immune system, heals damaged skin, boosts tissue and cell regeneration and is excellent for use post-operation or post-radiation. www.hannaisul.com


http://www.phytomerusa.com

http://www.dermaswiss.com


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COLOR THERAPY The Color Aromas Pink-Scented Aromatherapy Body Oil and Mister by Conscious Colors offers perfect healing support for women with breast cancer, says the company. “The scent of the pure essential oil blend of lavender, palmarosa and pink grapefruit immediately invokes the color pink into one’s memory while soothing the nervous system and lifting the emotions,” explains formula developer Constance Hart. Each product comes with a pretty pink glass bead and impresses the color pink’s healing message, “I am loving.”www.consciouscolors.com

TREATMENT ENHANCERAfter a skin exfoliation treatment, clients may need additional serums for skin lightening, acne, moisturizing or vitamin enhancement to complete their treatment. Altair Instruments’ Hydro Wand® allows you to give their skin a cosmeceutical infusion of these products after exfoliation to enhance your signature skin care treatment. It is offered in two tip configurations: 12mm and 19mm. There are three different surfaces to choose from: Smooth (no diamonds), Fine and Medium grit diamond tip. The Hydro Wand can be used with any of the Altair Instruments systems.www.BuyDiamondTome.com

BETTER BREAST COMFORTThe Adjustable Breast Comfort system, developed by Contour Table Systems, is the only adjustable patent pending answer to women’s issues with prone positioning, says the company. A cushioned platform moves below the table for breast comfort, and above the table as a head rest or upper back lift to aid in shoulder work and chest stretching.www.contourtablesystems.com

SLEEPING BEAUTYBella Il Fiore introduces Bella’s Goodnight Gorgeous Sleep Mask Collection! The one-hundred percent silk sleep masks, trimmed in romantic ruffles and delicate embroidery, are designed to help your clients get some serious shut eye! During Breast Cancer Awareness month this October, BellaIlFioreisdonating20percent of the sales from their Sleep Masks to the National Breast Cancer Foundation. www.bellabeauty.net www.nationalbreastcancer.org

FIRM AND FLAWLESSThe Ultra Slim Effect from Provence Cosmetics’ Bioslimming product line reduces the “heavy” feeling of legs, says the company. Essential oils in the formula boost circulation, disperse bruises and reduce the appearance of broken capillaries and varicose veins.www.bioslimming.com


http://www.consciouscolors.com

http://www.bellabeauty.net

http://www.nationalbreastcancer.org


3. Shampoo-in-a-cap. For patients who cannot easily get out of bed, these shampoos-in-a-cap are an absolute lux-ury. They look like a shower cap, but in-side they contain a lathering shampoo and conditioner combination. Simply put it on the head, massage into hair for a few minutes, remove and discard! Hair can then be towel or blow-dried. And we all know how important looking good is to feeling better!

4. A daily agenda. To keep track of all the appointments, names and phone numbers that are important to remem-ber—and to mark the day when patients are released and come home!

5. Pill organizer. The best are those that are broken up into each day, and can hold enough medication for one week. This is an excellent aid to keep track of all prescribed medicines and any physician-approved supplements that are part of the patient’s daily regime.

6. Soft button-front pyjamas. After surgery, lifting the arms can be very painful, so any warm shirts that button in the front make it much easier to change clothes.

7. Baby wipes. Kept at the bedside, these can be used to wipe down hands, clean the face and enable patients to wash themselves in private, without the assistance of nurses.

8. Mints. Dry air and medications can result in bad breath. Mints help moisten the mouth and freshen breath, and are an excellent alternative to have onhand if maintaining daily oral hygiene be-comes difficult.

9. Hydrating and sensitive skin care products. Cancer treatments result in dry, dull skin, which needs regular mois-turizing. Choose products that are spe-cifically made for oncology patients, for-

ONE OF THE MOST DIFFICULT aspects of cancer treatments is the time spent in the hospital undergoing any variety of medical procedures. Many cancer patients do not live near a hos-pital or clinic that specializes in the care they require, so they spend a lot of time away from the nurturing and supportive environment of family and friends. Long hospital stays are sometimes required, or the patients find lodging in compas-sionate care houses funded by chari-ties or medical centers. Spas that offer oncology esthetics services should also consider selling retail products that are helpful to cancer patients, and one of the best ways to do this is to provide the patients, or their friends and family, with a unique opportunity to fill a decorative gift bag or basket with a certain number of goodies from your retail stock. By of-fering three different sizes, even children or grandchildren can help put together a personalized gift for their loved one. Consider regularly retailing the follow-ing products—not only for your oncol-ogy patients, but for any other clients facing medical issues.

1. Warm, comforting slippers! Hos-pital floors are cold and can be slippery, so a pair of comfortable slippers kept by the bedside will combat chilly feet and ward off possible slips.

2. A small throw pillow. Surgery, lymphedema, catheters and other is-sues may require that an arm or leg be slightly raised, and hospital pillows are often too big and bulky for that. Small, square throw pillows are ideal, allowing for a good range of motion in hospital beds, and they’re easy to carry around for use on the go.

mulated with ingredients that are gentle, natural and nourishing to keep their skin hydrated and healthy.

10. Gift certificates for oncology esthetics services. These make the per-fect pampering present for those who deserve only the best!

Spa gift baskets are an excellent way to remind cancer patients that we are here for them, and that they are always in our hearts, no matter the distance that separates us. n

Cassandra Rafuse is a master herbalist with 10 years of experience and profi-ciency in several other natural health modalities. A dedicated professional student, she is also a licensed makeup artist and an expert in spa therapies from around the world. Rafuse is the owner of Sabai Wellness Spa, an eco-spa in Fredericton, New Brunswick, Canada.

by Cassandra Rafuse

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SPA OPERATIONS INTERVIEWCHRISTINE HAYS, VICE PRESIDENT OF SPA OPERATIONS, THE OBEROI GROUP

I HAD THE PRIVILEGE OF INTER-viewing Ms. Christine Hays during a one-month training assignment I had with The Oberoi Group. During this time I had the opportunity to stay at many of their various locations, and find out from firsthand experience why Oberoi hotels are ranked among the top 10 hotel brands in the world.

Your spa menus offer unique treat-ments, including some that I have not seen in the United States. Can you tell me a bit about them? Oberoi spas offers many exotic treatments for the face and body. We offer a variety of Ayurveda inspired treatments, such as Abhyanga. This is a traditional Indian massage in which a combination of soothing and symmetrical strokes is applied to regulate the circulatory and nervous system. The warm medicinal oils are carefully chosen according to your ‘dosha’ or body type to balance your well-being.

Our other Ayurveda treatments in-clude Hot Herbal Poultice, which uti-lizes warm pouches filled with herbs. It is good for stimulating circulation and reducing aches, pains and swelling. Shirodhara is another popular treat-ment; this is an ancient Indian therapy using warm medicated oils that flow from a specially designed copper ves-sel. A gentle stream of warm oils is di-rected onto the third eye, which in turn triggers healing and calms the mind.

I actually had the Shirodhara treat-ment, but it was combined with Abhyanga. Yes, when combined it can be a long, extremely relaxing and almost hypnotic experience. Typically, you will be asked to take a short Ayurvedic ques-tionnaire to determine your body con-stitution, otherwise known in Ayurveda as your dosha. Your therapist selects the Ayurveda-inspired oil based on your do-sha. You will then take a brief steam to relax and soothe the mind and muscles.

Afterward, your therapist will perform the Indian foot bath ritual with healing neem leaves. You will then be given a relaxing head and back massage that addresses many trigger points to relieve stress, after which the Abhyanga mas-sage is performed. Once that is done, you will be guided on to the “Droni,” a traditional Ayurveda bed made from the healing neem tree for the Shirodhara treatment, which can be quite soothing. It is wonderful for insomniacs. Almost ev-eryone sleeps better after this treatment. Also, the oils used in the treatment are enriched, and provide powerful condi-tioning for the hair.

I noticed a series of brass bowls in the treatment rooms—are they related to Ayurveda? We have two types of bowls which look like brass, although they are made up of seven metals that relate to the seven chakra energy centers of the body. Each bowl has a different note, and each note relates to a chakra. p

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The smallest bowls are related to Ayur veda as they are used in Padab-hyanga, which is the traditional Ayur-vedic reflexology focusing on the mar-ma points of the feet and lower legs. Our therapists incorporate the warm kasa bowls, creating an intense therapy as the metal of the bowls interact with the energy force of the body.

The other bowls that you may have seen in our leisure hotels are the Sacred Tibetan Singing Bowls. These bowls are also made up of seven metals, and are used for a treatment to balance the Chakra energy centers of the body.

In the Chakra Balancing treatment, our therapists place the bowls on the chakras and hit them with a mallet, cre-ating sound and vibration throughout the body which balances the chakra energy centers. The ultimate combi-nation is applying hot herbal poultice to the muscles to warm and soothe them, accompanied by the resonat-ing sounds and vibrations from sacred bowls. This is not an Ayurveda therapy, although it does incorporate Ayurvedic principles. All of these ancient Asian therapies intertwine at some level, fo-cusing on opening blockages to bring you into balance.

Our indigenous treatments at The Oberoi Spas are also quite exotic. Each spa is located in completely different parts of India and abroad. Every one of them offers a wide array of natural in-digenous ingredients that represent the region. For example, we offer honey and coconut at The Oberoi Mumbai, since the hotel is situated on the Arabian Sea and coconuts are abundant in this re-gion. At Wildflower Hall, located in the Himalayas, we are using spices grown in the region, along with Himalayan salts for our body exfoliation treatment.

Cross-gender massages have pre-viously been taboo, although it has become a widely acceptable practice. While Ayurveda treatments are tradi-tionally not performed cross-gender, at

Oberoi Spas our Ayurveda treatments are ‘inspired;’ therefore all of our thera-pists perform Ayurveda treatments on either gender.

Aside from incorporating indigenous ingredients in your treatments, which product lines do you use? At Oberoi Spas we offer treatments using a beau-tiful line from Hungary, which focuses on thermal waters and Hungarian Moor Mud. We also offer treatments with two well known Indian brands; both are luxury Ayurveda product lines. We are finding that our Indian guests prefer a well known international line, and our foreign guests prefer to explore the Indian treatments and products.

Retailing is also a very new concept in Indian spas, and we are tapping into new ideas and products to retail in the spa. We most recently benefitted from the amazing retail training that you had provided for 10 of our spas and 80 ther-apists. We are already seeing fantastic results, as our therapists are becoming

more engaged with our guests, bring-ing the spas to another level.

What do you predict for the future with regard to hot spa trends? Spa trends are leaning toward wellness spas and medical tourism. I’m finding that spa goers are seeking more than pam-pering and setting goals to make a change or difference in their lives.

Himalayan pink salt inhalation rooms, which are extremely beneficial for lungs and skin care, are becoming a spa trend. Hamams are also becoming more and more popular.

Yoga is another strong aspect in spas, as it is a form of balancing the body, mind and spirit. All of our spas of-fer a complimentary yoga session each morning, although at the Oberoi lei-sure hotel spas, we have in-house yogis who guide our guests through a variety of yoga sessions. They are passionate about sharing the knowledge of breath, movement and meditation. At some of


our spas you can opt for private yoga, pranyama (yogic breathing techniques) and meditation sessions. Yoga can only add to one’s true ‘Indian Experience.’

What aspect of a treatment at the Oberoi make it ‘world class’ and unique? It is not about the treatments alone or our amazing destinations; at the end of the day it’s about the entire experience. From the moment our guests arrive in our spas, all their senses are activated.

We greet each guest with a Namaste; hands folded in prayer position as we escort the guest to the treatment room. The therapist provides our guests with a short introduction of the therapy room, and instructs them on how to prepare themselves for the treatment. The ther-apist then excuses themself and waits outside the therapy suite while the guest is getting comfortable in their robe and slippers. The guest knocks on the door when they are ready for the therapist to enter the room, rather than the thera-pist asking the guest if they are ready.

We begin each treatment with a foot wash ritual, during which the thera-pist explains the treatment’s duration and benefits. The guest is then guided through an aromatic journey to select the oil used for the therapy. The thera-pist discusses the ingredients and ben-efits of that particular oil. They then ask the guest about their medical his-tory and areas of concentration. Once our guest is situated on the massage table, the therapist endows the guest with a “Bindi Touch.” This entails the therapist placing an oil of choice in their hands, and placing cupped hands over their guests’ eyes and nose, and guiding them through an inhalation process, followed by a welcome touch and gentle rocking. Post treatment, the guest relaxes in the luxury of our own relaxation area, remains in the treat-ment suite to enjoy a steam therapy or simply unwinds with an herbal tea or other health beverage.

Each therapy suite is housed with a private restroom, steam and show-

er for the guests’ personalized experi-ence. Some of our treatment suites have clawed bathtubs, where we offer luxu-rious bathing rituals with flower petals and candles.

Our therapists are genuine through-out the duration of the treatment, as it is not about the therapy alone. It is the entire experience that makes all the dif-ference in the world. n

Linda Harding-Bond is president of Moontide Consulting and Principal of Ethnic Skin Aficionado, an interactive blog site. She special-izes in ethnic skin care training from a global per-spective and re-tail sales. Bond is also an award winning estheti-cian at Rescue Rittenhouse Spa in Philadelphia. She may be contacted at [email protected].

business|spa operations interview



mailto:Linda@lindathes�kindiva.com




Please visit us at The International Congress of Esthetics & Spa, Long Beach, CA at booths 500, 502, 504Classroom: 202 C, Time: Sunday (September 09, 2012) at 02:00 – 03:15 pm


MODERN TECHNOLOGY HAS ENHANCED every aspect of our culture today, including the world of esthetics. Historically, a business owner may have been vacillating on whether or not to introduce skin care technology into their business. Today’s question revolves around the type, size and cost of the technology that best suits the needs of their business.

Although there seems to be an endless ar-ray of technology to choose from, generally we can consider them in three different categories: hand held, mid-size and large technology—of-ten referred to as “pro” for professional. The cost of each technology usually parallels the size and category. For example, hand held gear is generally the lowest cost technology, and pro typically carries the highest cost.

Many assume that hand held gear and ac-cent technology are reserved for those busi-nesses who cannot afford large pro devices. This assumption is completely misguided. A good analogy and model to consider is Apple. It is common for one person to own an iPhone, iPad, MacBook Air and iMac Desktop Pro; I do. While my iPhone is handy for a variety of tasks, surfing the Web is much more interest-ing on my iPad. I travel with my MacBook Air, but in my office I prefer my iMac Desktop Pro because of the faster speed and large display. Each one of the Apple products plays a role in my daily life, and in my pursuit to building a successful business.

Defining technologyHand held equipment is just what the name in-dicates—held by hand. It is small, light, compact and battery operated. It is made and designed for quick and convenient use. Since it does not need to be plugged in, this type of technology can be used in any environment. Because of its lightweight and petite design, it can usually be worn or kept on the skin therapist with lanyards or handy gear tool belts that forward thinking manufacturers have designed. The quality of most hand held technology is professional grade, and designed to be used day in and day out in a professional environment, with costs ranging from $40 to $700. Professional hand held tech-nology may include skin magnification devices with white LED and UV lights to expose sun damage and congestion; self lit vision visors with

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multiple magnification intensities that can be worn by the skin therapist at all times; quick moisture analysis devices that work on the ba-sis of bio-impedance technology; ultrasonic/microcurrent skin scrubbers that help with the exfoliation process and greatly encourage prod-uct penetration; and mini microcurrent devices designed for mini lifting services.

Although there are a handful of very large, well designed, complete skin analysis systems, they are very expensive, ranging from $15,000 to $30,000. They take up the better part of a treatment room, and at least 30 minutes are required to go through the complete analysis. None of these attributes are conducive to to-day’s skin therapist, who often is the only per-son in their business and generally works out of one room. Having a good hand held white light LED/UV magnification tool, a self lit white light LED vision visor, and a compact moisture analysis tool will cost you less than $150. These three tools eliminate the need for the über ex-pensive systems and a rickety, space consum-ing magnifying lamp. These types of tools are agile and well designed, and can be used very rapidly during your consultation. Just as impor-tantly, they can be used during the service, as the skin is changing and reacting to different products and technology. Because they are on your person at all times, they can also be used in any environment—in the room or out, includ-ing the retail area!

What’s your accent?Accent technology is generally mid-sized and mid-priced. Unlike battery operated, hand held technology, they are powered by a wall recep-tacle; plugging them in is required. Compared to large pro technology, accent technology is very compact, and takes up less space in the treatment room. Although they are not as mo-

bile as hand held technology, they can easily be moved from room to room, and light enough to realistically be moved to different locations. This is an important feature, as many skin therapists work at more than one location.

Accent technology focuses on services that are predominantly add on, splash or accent. They are usually a secondary technology to large pro technology. This positioning is the driving factor of the size and cost of this category of equipment. Two prime examples of accent tech-nology are LED and oxygen. Both are excellent technologies, and almost always combined with a stand alone pro technology. Historically, some of the higher-end LED technologies have sold for as high as $30,000, whereas today’s forward thinking accent LED technology is sold for as little as $2,000. Efficient design can result in a $28,000 savings for the professional.

Are accent devices as good and effective as the large pro devices? In many cases, yes. While they are tapered down versions of pro technology with fewer bells and whistles, well designed accent technology will definitely get the job done. As importantly, strategically pur-chased accent technology frees up needed capital to diversify the overall range of technol-ogy that you have to offer on your menu and further strengthens your business.

Go pro!Larger, stand alone pro devices are just that: “professional.” They are generally larger in size, heavier, awkward to move and significantly higher in price. How much more? Although the price of pro technology will vary depending on the type of technology, most sells for $4,000 to $10,000, with the majority idling in the $4,000 to $6,000 range. Two good examples of pro technology are microcurrent and wet/dry micro-

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Accent technology frees up needed capital to diversify the overall range of technology

that you have to offer on your menu and further strengthens your business.



dermabrasion. Both can be used in a service by themselves and facilitate an excellent result. Of course, they work even better when layered with other technology. Nonetheless, their ability to “stand alone” is what defines them as pro-fessional technology.

Which one looks like a smarter choice? Option B allows you to obtain a diverse array of technology (nine different de-vices), while at the same time leaves you $45,000 of capital that can be infused into your business or saved for future needs.

Being small in size does not mean that a technological device is not effective. Smart, forward thinking manufactur-ers are spending their research and development dollars on creating intelligent and effective technology in small and sleek designs that are affordable to all. This movement in our culture has allowed more than 100 million users to enjoy the iPhone, and be part of this new and exciting culture.

In today’s world of skin care, we are inundated with tech-nology choices. Remember to keep it simple and logical, and think about the Apple philosophy. Work with companies that parellel this philosophy and have smart technology op-tions that allow you to achieve maximum success through your results. Do business with companies that have a sincere vested interest in giving you the best value for your dollar. n

David Suzuki, president of Bio-Therapeutic, Inc., has been an active, licensed member of the esthetics in-dustry for more than 18 years. He is an authority on technology and regu-latory issues, including FDA submis-sion and acquisition. Suzuki serves as an advisor to institutions and state boards, writes for numerous industry publications and journals and conducts educational seminars and classes. E-mail him at [email protected] or visit www.bio-therapeutic.com.

business|technology and your business

NEW GENERATION OF EXFOLIATING ACIDS

for all skin types - to be incorporated into every facial, rejuvenating treatment and corrective procedure!

ALPHA-ECO PEELIdeal blend of acids for maximum, well-tolerated brightening; includes Glycolic, Lactic, Phytic, Kojic and Azelaic Retinol and botanical lighteners boost lightening and brightening.

LACTO-BERRY PLUS PEELNon-irritating 30% Lactic, Salicylic, Malic, Tartaric and Citric Acid blend. Powerful antioxidants Resveratrol, Pomegranate, Goji Berry and Bilberry combat infl ammation, calm reddened complexion fi ght free radical damage.

COMPLEXION RESTORATIVE PEEL(mandelic, malic, phytic acids)A gentle none irritating phytobioactive peel for all skin types. Provides antibacterial, antioxidant, and cellular support. Accelerates cell turnover while providing skin lightening.

LABELLE PROFESSIONAL SKINCARE-

Treatments • Equipment • Education

Perfecting your esthetic services...

Toll Free: 888.200.3977 www.5starformulators.comSay you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #180 on reader service card

Here are two examples of different strategic purchasing packages:A. $30,000 Pro LED device $25,000 skin analysis system $55,000 total investment

B. $1,000 array of hand held technology (5 devices) $2,000 Accent LED system $3,000 Accent oxygen system $4,000 Pro wet/dry microdermabrasion system $4,000 Pro microcurrent system $14,000 total investment



http://www.bio-therapeutic.com

http://www.5starformulators.com


IT’S BEEN NEARLY TEN YEARS SINCE I was diagnosed with breast cancer. I still remember the sinking feeling deep in the pit of my stomach when I received the phone call bearing the news. Until that point, I had been assured by numer-ous doctors that the lump in my breast did not appear to be cancerous. The consensus was that it looked like a hor-monal condition that would fluctuate with my cycle. Even so, I didn’t want to take any chances. I had a surgeon remove the lump and test it just so I could be 100 percent certain that I was okay. I expected him to call and tell me that it was benign and there was no need to worry. But the test gave us an answer none of us had expected: I had Stage I breast cancer.

The first thing I thought about were my two sons, ages three and five at the time. What would happen to them if something happened to me? What if I wasn’t going to be able to see them grow into young men? It was a horrible feeling. I called my ex-husband and told him about my diagnosis. I cried, he cried, and we cried together. But after a few days, I knew there was only so much crying I could do. Crying gave me the emotional release I needed, but it wasn’t helping me to heal or to make the most of each precious day that I had with my family and friends.

Having a positive attitude will bring about positive circumstances in your life. I knew that I’d have to regain that attitude in order to have the strength I needed to battle this disease. That’s not to say that once I changed my attitude, everything

was immediately okay. I definitely had bad days—really bad days where I was sick as a dog and completely miserable. I had to undergo a lumpectomy followed by six months of chemotherapy and four months of radiation therapy. All of my hair fell out, including my eyebrows and lashes. But it was all worth it when my cancer went into remission a year af-ter being diagnosed. The scariest year of my life was now behind me.

After this experience, I realized how important it is for us to take care of ourselves healthwise. If I hadn’t in-sisted on having my lump examined, the cancer could have spread. This is why I think it’s a great idea for beauty professionals to do something special during the month of October, which is Breast Cancer Awareness Month. In our industry, we interact with dozens of people on a weekly basis, and we have the opportunity to encourage them to make positive choices when it comes to looking and feeling good. This October, your spa can take this a step further by incorporating breast cancer awareness information into your client interaction. After all, looking good is great, but be-ing healthy is what is most important.

One of the most common signs of breast cancer awareness is the pink ribbon. Over the past 20 years, it has grown to become the international sig-nal for breast cancer awareness. This ribbon can be incorporated into your logo and the design can be placed at the front desk with accompanying hand-outs that provide breast cancer facts and

detection tips. While many women have seen these tips before, the handouts can serve as an important reminder. A recent study conducted by Susan G. Komen for the Cure found that many women in the U.S. are not following the recom-mended guidelines for mammography screenings—they are having their first screening later than recommended, not having screenings at regular intervals or not receiving appropriate and timely follow-up for positive screening results. Providing this information to clients can help reinforce the importance of being proactive when it comes to your health.

To complement these handouts, spa employees can wear pink ribbons throughout the month of October. You can also offer pink refreshments to your customers. The refreshments can include drinks like pink lemonade, and treats like cupcakes or doughnuts with pink frost-ing. You can even use extensions in your hair to give it a pink streak!

Spas are also a great place to hold fundraisers for breast cancer research. The medical spa where I work has part-nered with Susan G. Komen for the Cure to donate a portion of the proceeds from the sale of certain treatments during a designated time period. You can also ask clients if they’d like to donate $1 to breast cancer research when they are paying for their spa services. Another great idea is offering a discounted service to anyone who participates in “Race for the Cure” or another local run/walk for breast cancer research.

by Shelly Cook

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In addition to creating awareness and raising money for this cause, we can also offer support to survivors. Certain treatments and procedures can help renew the self-esteem and confidence of a person who has struggled with this disease. Many cancer survivors have endured hair loss, skin discoloration and surgical scarring, among other side effects while undergoing treatment.

Light-based treatments can pro-duce amazing results when treating

surgical scars and discoloration caused by chemotherapy and other cancer treatments. One of the most effective procedures to reduce the appearance of these marks is fractional skin rejuve-nation. I have used a series of fractional laser treatments to treat a scar on my chest, and it has faded tremendously.

Fractional skin rejuvenation is most often looked at as an anti-aging tool that can reduce the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles and stretch marks.

However, this technology is also ex-tremely effective for reducing the ap-pearance of scars and hyperpigmented skin. A fractional laser utilizes a stan-dard beam of laser light that is split into thousands of tiny microbeams. These beams penetrate the skin to stimulate collagen growth and improve skin tex-ture. A fractional treatment can be used to treat skin anywhere on the body. The treatment is non-ablative, and the client can return to work immediately following the procedure.

If you are not trained to use cos-metic lasers, acquiring the skills needed to offer these procedures is not as dif-ficult as you might think. Regulations vary by state, but the industry-accepted standard is two weeks of combined classroom and clinical hands-on edu-cation. Comprehensive education and training are beneficial to understanding the proper techniques and safety proto-cols associated with these procedures.

There are many ways to raise the awareness of breast cancer and show support to the individuals and fami-lies impacted by the disease. Creating a “pink” atmosphere in your spa is a great way to do that. The color has be-come a very powerful reminder that this disease is something we should all be concerned about. According to Susan G. Komen for the Cure, someone in the world is diagnosed with breast cancer every 19 seconds. It is up to each of us to take the necessary steps to pro-tect our health and encourage others to do the same. n

Shelley Cook is a clinical laser instructor at National Laser Institute school of medi-cal esthetics. On a monthly basis, she teaches es-theticians, medi-cal professionals and others how to perform safe and effective cosmetic laser treatments. For more information, visit www.nationallaserinstitute.com or call 800.982.6817.

business|the power of pink



http://www.nationallaserinstitute.com



WHEN BAD MANAGERS RUIN GOOD EMPLOYEES

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YOU CAN HIRE THE RIGHT employees for your busi-ness, but if your managers don’t manage them well,

those good employees may wind up messing up rather than stepping up.

Take this example: Jen and Tim are managers of two different departments of a very large spa, but they share the same frustrations about their respective employees.

“You won’t believe it,” Jen grumbles over her morning coffee in the employ-ee break room. “We’ve got to rework the entire spa menu that Ronald turned in! I paid for his overtime last week to get it finished, and today I found out that he didn’t follow the company for-mat! I’m so mad at him ...”

Tim nods and snorts, “Yeah, my em-ployees are worthless too. They all start out so upbeat and sunny, but before long they’re always complaining and slacking.”

Quick to blame their employees for mistakes, these two managers seem to be blind to their own failure to give their employees proper direction and encouragement. They don’t consider the possibility that their poor manage-ment skills are contributing to their employees’ poor performance.

Bad managers are everywhere, and there are many possible reasons for their lack of leadership skills. Like Jen, they may be new to managing others, or they may have been reluctantly promoted into management. Good technical man-agers can be bad at managing others if they themselves have not received management training or mentoring by a good manager.

What to do about itThree decades of field research with 100 mid to large size U.S. organizations across a broad cross section of indus-

tries has identified seven key manage-ment behaviors that encourage good employees and help them become top performers.

Jen and Tim became better managers when they learned to:C = CHALLENGE EMPLOYEES WITH NEW OPPORTUNITIES.Jen had previously made the mistake of pigeonholing her employees into routine tasks and offering them little chance to learn new skills. She is now applying better management skills, identifying which employees are ready for cross-training, and which ones are excited to take on additional tasks or show interest in growth opportunities.

R = RECOGNIZE RESULTS IN REAL TIME.Tim was so immersed in his own work that he ignored the daily accomplish-ments of his staff members. With man-agement training, Tim now makes sure that he observes his staff’s on-the-job performance and praises an employee’s good results at the time of achieve-ment. This makes his employees feel appreciated for their efforts, and there-fore want to achieve even more.

E = ENSURE A HEALTHY RATE OF CHANGE.Prior to receiving coaching by her experienced manager, Jen regular-ly changed the directions she gave her employees several times a day. Her manager taught her how to avoid passing down knee-jerk reactions that confused employees and drained their confidence. She now holds short “hud-dles” every morning with staff to clarify the goals and the direction they should follow for the day.

BY CHARLYNE MEINHARD

USE POSITIVE MANAGEMENT TACTICS TO CREATE GOOD EMPLOYEES

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A = ADOPT AN OPEN DOOR CLIMATE.Before getting valuable guidance from his boss, Tim would spout the company statement of having an “open-door pol-icy,” and then sputter furiously when no employees ever approached him about issues or concerns. His boss encouraged him to set specific times to meet with each employee every week. Tim is now more accessible, and his employees feel empowered to list their questions and issues to cover in their individual 30-minute meetings every week.

T = TRANSCEND THE GOAL OF MAKING A PROFIT.Previously, Jen hammered the issue of cost savings so much that her employ-ees began taking shortcuts in the ser-vices they provided in terms of time and quality. She saw a bigger picture once she read and discussed the com-pany’s annual report with her director. Jen now heightens employees’ aware-ness of their role in customer perception and long-term satisfaction. Employees now readily respond to meeting and beating customer expectations. They are more committed to accuracy, com-pleteness and timeliness.

E = ENCOURAGE FLEXIBILITY AND INNOVATION.Before his “field trip” to competing spas in the area, Tim had always demand-ed that his employees follow the same



business|when bad managers ruin good employees

BUILDING A STRENGTH-DEVELOPMENT

PLAN OFFERS MORE INSIGHT INTO EACH

EMPLOYEE THAN EITHER OF THEM IMAGINED.

check-in procedures that had been es-tablished years ago. But after seeing and hearing about client problems that arose from this system, Tim’s eyes were opened to the need for change in his department. He now regularly initiates problem-solving discussions with employ-ees. They are energized by the oppor-tunity to contribute, and often surprise

him with practical solutions that he never would have thought of on his own.

S = Strengthen employee strengths.A significant step forward into good management for Jen and Tim was learn-ing to set individual goals for employ-ee development. Publicly complain-ing about the faults of their employees previously dominated their interactions with staff. Private discussions on their performance strengths have made Jen and Tim’s working relationships with each employee more positive. Building a strength development plan offers them more insight into each employee than either of them had imagined.

How about you?Think about yourself as a manager, di-rector or owner. Do you use the kind of management skills that will help your employees be the best they can be?

Now more than ever, all employees and managers need to be the best at their jobs, becoming highly productive problem solvers who help grow the business. Businesses can no longer af-ford to let managers get by with bad—or even average—management skills.

Focus on applying the tips discussed in this article to upgrade your manage-ment skills for today’s world. They will help you produce better employees, get better results, experience less frus-tration yourself and create a much more synergistic working environment for your spa. n

Charlyne Meinhard is a speaker, train-er and chief results officer of Next Level Consulting, a consulting firm specializing in change leadership, tal-ent development and innovation. Meinhard inspires and teaches man-agers to lead successful changes in organizations. She is also the author of Change Agents to the Rescue! and Ahead of Change. For more informa-tion, visit www.NextLevelForYou.com, email [email protected] or call 804.382.5054.



http://www.NextLevelForYou.com



MORE NEWS

COMMERCE, TRADE, INDUSTRY AND PEOPLE

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ADVANCED LEARNINGDevin Romero, the national Rhonda Allison educator and founder of The Treatment Room in San Francisco, CA, has announced the opening of the Rhonda Allison Education Center. The Center, which first opened in May, features interactive, hands-on classes. “I want to take esthetics to the next level by bringing professionals together to interact, share and grow by expanding their knowledge of advanced skin care,” says Romero. “My goal for the Center is to help fellow skin professionals advance their careers, while allowing them to experience the culture and passion behind Rhonda Allison.”www.rhondaallison.com

FOREIGN VISITORKane Hammond, the Australian distributor for Bio-Therapeutic, recently visited the company’s corporate headquarters in Seattle. He spent

a week learning about Bio-Therapeutic’s latest innovations, and met with many of the company’s team members to discuss marketing and sales in Australia. Pictured here with Dena and David Suzuki.www.bio-therapeutic.com

A NEW KIND OF APPThe Shout Lounge, a revolutionary new social media application from Linkup, gives spas and salons

constant access to targeted content for their social media. It connects local businesses

with suppliers and media to help them access content for their social media and other digital marketing. The Shout Lounge can provide insight into future marketing strategies thanks to built in analytics and reporting, which show what content generates the most engagement with clients.www.theshoutlounge.comwww.linkupmarketing.com

LNE & SPA SUPPORTS SKILLS USA!LNE & Spa was a proud sponsor of this year’s Skills USA Esthetics Competition. The annual event is based on evaluating each contestant’s preparation for employment, and to recognize exceptional students for their excellence and professionalism in the field of esthetics. This year, 38 competitors selected at state level across the U.S. participated in the competition in Kansas City, MO on June 24-27. Competitors were judged on a kit preparation, written exam, verbal presentation, facial massage, daytime makeup and fantasy makeup. Six overall winners were chosen, including a first, second and third place winner for each secondary and post-secondary division. www.lneonline.comwww.skillsusa.org

EDUCATIONAL EXPANSIONPCA Skin® is proud to announce the launch of their new online courses, which provide physicians and clinicians yet another way to stay on the cutting edge of skin health science. The Daily Care Product Overview and Professional Treatment Overview are the first of many new educational offerings from PCA, says the company. www.pcaskin.com/education


http://www.rhondaallison.com

http://www.linkupmarketing.com


http://www.skillsusa.org


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SCOMPASSIONATE TRAINING

More than 20 licensed professionals from all over the country participated in Anne Willis’ three-day Oncology Skin Therapeutics™ course in June. Five oncology patients volunteered

to receive treatment at the training as part of the hands-on therapeutic care. This allowed students the opportunity to distinguish the various changes to skin, the intervals at which they occur and the treatments that should be administered. Humility, compassion, reverence and gratitude were a few emotional expressions that emerged during the three-day intensive course, and many friendships formed among participants, says Willis.www.annecwillis.com

SEASON FINALEThe final 2012 Spa Connection event is happening on September 13th from 4 p.m. to 9:00 p.m. at the Hotel Del Coronado in Coronado, CA.

Speakers featured at the event include “The Godmother of the Spa” Deborah Szekely and internationally renowned wellness expert Nina Curtis, among others. Spa Connection event attendees include qualified properties, spas and influential decision makers. www.thespaconnect.com

EXCITING LAUNCH!Bio France Lab skin care debuts at The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, Long Beach on September 9-10. The Lavender skin care line is manufactured in the U.S. with authentic French pure essential oil from high altitudes, which promotes natural healing, says the company. The peel-off masks are made in France, with French alginate and natural organic ingredients infused with fruit, pure essential oil and vitamins.

GRAND OPENINGSpa Source USA celebrated a grand opening in Grand Prairie, TX on July 16. Spa Source USA ships its products to Malta, France, Italy, Canada, Switzerland and Vietnam. In addition to exporting their products, the new small business in Grand Prairie is offering spa treatments. It is connected to a learning institute, which may potentially partner with Dubiski Career High School’s cosmetology program. Spa Source USA will bring approximately 30 new jobs to the city. www.spasourceusa.com

BRIDGING THE GAP Spa4ThePink (S4TP) is a non-profit cause that educates spa professionals in integrative therapies and oncology modified techniques for esthetics. Nontoxique, Sanitas Skincare, Elite Therapeutics and DermaQuest are all sponsoring a teleseries starting in January to introduce spa professionals and oncology specialists to one another. The objective is to help validate the integration of spa services into cancer therapies. Nontoxique’s partnership is part of a new retail fundraising model, SHARE2, that helps raise funds to provide spa therapies and skin care for cancer patients who cannot afford them. www.nontoxique.comwww.spa4thepink.org

SZEKELY


http://www.thespaconnect.com

http://www.spasourceusa.com

http://www.nontoxique.com

http://www.spa4thepink.org


plant and forget that they actually have medicinal values. Professor Bodeker and I have worked on several of these initia-tives through the years, in places like Bali, Northern Thailand and Malaysia. Our goal is to take this corporate and social responsibility initiative to communities, and explain to people the simplicity of integrating their flora into daily living. Teaching others the value of growing and harvesting medicinal plants can then

be extended to charitable organizations such as the Don Chan Temple, the lo-cal orphanage run by Buddhist monks that holds more than 800 orphans. We hope to replace Western medicine phi-losophies with plants for the children of this orphanage, to help the ones who are suffering from illnesses or other ail-ments. The resort currently sponsors this orphanage with weekly donations from our own organic vegetable garden.

The simplicity of this initiative dem-onstrates how simple it can be for a resort spa to practice corporate and social responsibility. Living in Asia has taught me that there are so many op-portunities to heal the body without the use of Western medicines—and you do not have to live in Asia to experience it.

Seek out plants that are indigenous to your area. You do not need a lot of room to create your own natural land-scape where guests can enjoy the scen-

THE MANDARIN ORIENTAL DHARA Dhevi resort in Chiang Mai, Thailand has a strong commitment to corporate and social responsibility. The goal is to integrate medicinal plants into the 60 acres on the resort property, and then to blend the plants into services, treat-ments, food and beverages.

Professor Gerry Bodeker, one of the world’s leading experts on medicinal plants and integrated medicine, has

helped our spa to incorporate the key medicinal plants and their value into our efforts to create a better commu-nity, and to educate our guests on the amazing benefits of a tropical garden.

We wanted to teach our guests how to produce their own herbal compresses and infuse their steam rooms. With a clear understanding of plants and flora (native plant life), the guest can experi-ment and learn that medicinal plants can help alleviate ailments such as back-aches, digestion issues or even bug bites. Guests are able to handpick plants from around the resort to enjoy in fresh herbal drinks or salads. These culinary delights are made to aid in digestion, help with headaches or simply provide high doses of the vitamins and minerals the body requires. Our guests find this edible edu-cation to be a great experience!

Plants are everywhere, and more of-ten than not, we simply view them as a

ery and also partake in selecting their own ingredients for their service. Simple plants such as lavender are beautiful, easy to care for and blend nicely into a wrap or facial. Chamomile is another hearty and attractive plant that can be incorporated into services or beverages. You may want to create seasonal menus that match the ingredients in the garden at various times of the year.

by Brian Hathaway

organic & wellness medicinal plants

You do not need a lot of room to create your own natural landscape where guests can enjoy

the scenery and also partake in selecting their own ingredients for their service.

gardens on the grounds of Mandarin Oriental Dhara Dhevi resort

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Creating a garden oasis with acces-sible herbs and medicinal plants to en-gage and educate your clients is simple. Organize your plan and allow the natural beauty of the landscape to provide a harvest you can share with your guests. Clients will recreate this experience after they leave your spa, and it will always remind them of their wonderful experi-ence at your facility. n

Brian Hathaway is the director of spa and wellness for Mandarin Oriental Dhara Dhevi Resort in Chiang Mai, Thailand. He can be reached at [email protected].



organic & wellness

FOR THOSE IN EXTENDED CARE OR HOSPICE

OVER THE YEARS, I HAVE LEARNED the most about life from the death of peo-ple I love. While the topic of death and dying is often avoided, I have found it to be a source of healing. Any time that we can contribute to someone’s healing pro-cess—whether it’s physical, mental, emo-tional or spiritual healing, it is a blessing and an opportunity to honor that person.

When someone is ill, it is our na-ture to want to keep them alive … to save them. However, there is so much more to us than our physical body. We are spiritual beings in a physical body. While our body is temporary, our spirit is eternal. The body may not heal, but the spirit can always heal. When the spirit is healed before one passes on, the mind and emotions heal at the same time.

I was a regional manager for a major retailer, making the long drive home on a back road late one afternoon. There was little traffic and a lot of nature … rolling fields, farmland and occasionally cattle. I remember it distinctly because it was the same stretch of road where I first learned of Elvis’ death. As I was driving, a message came into my head: “Someone is leaving soon.” The mes-sage was very clear, yet I questioned it. But again I heard it: “Someone is leaving soon.” Startled by this, I went through my mental rolodex of friends and col-leagues. The names flipped by, one by one, until I thought of Lani. Bingo! I felt certain that she was the one leaving.

Lani was a massage therapist and friend who worked at my chiropractor’s office. We had performed our belly

c. Offer space and/or coordinate a “Life Celebration” event with family and friends.Two weeks after my first visit, I came

back to be with Lani, her sister and an-other friend who was also a healer. By now, Lani was unable to speak and rarely ate. She could hear us and be present with us, but she could not communicate with words. We created a sacred space by clearing the energy in the room with sound and Reiki. The three of us took turns performing Reiki on Lani, her fam-ily and each other. It was very intimate.

Create a healing space of tranquil-ity, whether in your treatment room or while visiting a sick client in a hospi-tal or hospice. Take measures to clear your space or you will subject yourself and your clients to unhealthy energy. Negative energy is sticky. It stays in place until it is cleared. There are sev-eral simple ways to clean energy be-tween appointments.

a. Use aromatherapy in a spray to mist around the room. Include sage with frankincense, rosemary, lavender, clary sage or myrrh.

b. The vibration of sound, from sing ing bowls or chimes, clears energy. Whether you play the music yourself or use a record-ing, either method will work.

c. Perform a blessing or say a prayer to clear energy and bring love and light into your space.

We celebrated Lani’s life and had fun in the room as she watched. We were anything but solemn; we were not merely sitting around waiting for her to die. Lani’s

dance debut with another friend in San Francisco the previous year. It was un-settling to have this inside knowledge before even talking to her, and I had been out of touch with her for awhile.

Once home, I called Lani’s office to find out that she had collapsed at work. After she had undergone a series of tests, it was discovered that she had an inoperable brain tumor. I called Lani to let her know that I would visit, and asked her if she had any special requests.

“Yes,” she responded. “I want a haircut and a manicure.” I was amazed at the simplicity of her response.

The tumor in Lani’s brain was so large that it changed the shape of her head. It was a disturbing sight, and neither of us said anything about it. The team of thera-pists that traveled to the facility showered her with love through a manicure, hand massage and haircut. Lani’s eyes sparkled as she soaked in every moment of the at-tention. It was incredibly rewarding to be with her during this experience.

In situations like this, don’t wait. When someone you know is ill, reach out to let them know you care. This is the most op-portune time to offer your support to the client and caregivers, which can be done in several ways. a. Create a special menu of services

for people who are ill. Include simple pleasures, oncology esthetics, Reiki, gemstone therapy and Chakra balancing.

b. Provide a menu of relaxation and wellness services for caregivers as well.

BY LINDA BERTAUT

CREATE A SPACE OF

tranquility



20-year-old daughter Karen gave a trib-ute to her mom by learning her mother’s portion of our belly dance debut. Karen had watched our video, and learned ev-ery move down to the last hip bump. Dressed in full costume, the three of us did the dance for Lani in her room, with Karen taking her mother’s place in the dance. Lani beamed. It was the best gift a daughter could give her dying mother.

Spiritual practices come from being; more so than doing. When you are full of your self … of your own spirit energy … you instinctively know what to do. When continues

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full of spirit, you automatically engage in spiritual practices and connect to oth-ers by being present. Your job is to be yourself and share your innate gifts. To do this, find a peaceful place within.a. Quiet the mind and emotions

through meditation, prayer and journaling.

b. Move your body with yoga, dance or walking in nature.

c. Feed your spirit; have fun by doing what you love.

d. Appreciate yourself and others; give thanks.

We experienced a force greater than ourselves in the room that weekend. All we had to do was be present and let the magic unfold before us. Our job was to love and serve. Lani’s eyes said everything; she was content and happy.

Lani’s spirit was healed in the last six weeks of her life. I was grateful for the advance notice I had received so I could contribute to her healing process before she passed. For the first time, Lani was able to receive the love and support of others. She was complete. That was a



huge gift … to be a part of the experience and to witness it. After she passed, I felt peace and gratitude from her. There were no regrets. My life was altered.

We are never really separated from our loved ones. The saying, “I’m with you in spirit,” is true. Our loved ones remain with us in our memories, hearts and spirit. If someone you know and care about is ill, I encourage you to talk about it

with them. Don’t pretend that it doesn’t exist. Be present and focus on them. Sometimes all someone needs to heal is to know that they matter—that their life makes a differ-ence to somebody else.

In 1997, the book On Death and Dying was published by psychologist Elizabeth Kübler-Ross. The publication changed the way the medical field cares for terminally ill patients. The five stages of dying are now widely accepted, and can be used as a guide for understanding what you, your clients and their caregivers may be experiencing. Please note that individuals may not neccessarily follow the stages in the order indicated.

The five stages of dying (DABDA) from the Kübler-Ross model: 1. Denial. “I feel fine.” “This can’t be happening—not to me.” Denial and refusing to accept the facts is usually a temporary defense; however some people remain locked in this stage. 2. Anger. “Why me? It’s not fair!” “Who is to blame?”In this stage, the person may be difficult to care for due to misplaced feelings of rage and envy. Do your best to remain detached and non-judgmental.3. Bargaining. “I’ll do anything if I can have a few more years.” The third stage involves the hope that the individual can somehow postpone or avoid death in exchange for a reformed lifestyle. 4. Depression. “I’m so sad, why bother with anything?”“I’m going to die soon, so what’s the point?”In this stage, the dying person may become silent, refuse visitors and spend a great deal of time crying and grieving. It’s natural to feel sadness, regret, fear and uncertainty when dying. Feeling these emotions indicates that the person has begun to accept the situation.5. Acceptance. “It’s going to be okay.” “I can’t fight it, so I may as well prepare for it.”In this last stage, individuals begin to come to terms with their mortality. The person who is dying can enter this stage long before the loved ones they leave behind. n

Author, esthetician, Reiki master teach-er and award-winning inner- and outer-beauty expert, Linda Bertaut special-izes in bringing inner beauty to the surface. Known as the Reiki master teacher of the beauty industry, Bertaut founded Bertaut Beauty to help pro-fessionals add value to their services by training them in her signature well-ness techniques and products. Join Bertaut at her blog www.chakralicious.com, contact her at [email protected] or call 626.405.0424.

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BY ROBERT SACHS

PTSD THERAPIESFOR THE SPA

POST TRAUMATIC STRESS DISORDER

IN OUR CULTURE, POST-TRAUMATIC stress disorder (PTSD) is commonly thought of as a problem specifical-ly associated with soldiers and war. Although this is a limited view of the disorder, at least it is an acknowledge-ment of the pain and trauma that our fighting men and women in the military may incur from their service to us all. It is also a far cry from years past, when even the veterans’ health organizations were in disagreement about whether or not to recognize this fact of warfare. In this regard, we have come a long way.

The fact is that PTSD is not just a phenomenon of war. When any kind of unexpected and traumatizing events occur, post-traumatic stress is a com-mon response.

The symptoms of PTSD, such as a numbing of feelings, loss of interest in daily activity, sudden weight gain, anxi-ety, depression, sleeplessness and in-somnia can arise when we experience a sudden death in the family, illness, terrorist attack, rape, domestic violence or a natural, environmental or manmade

tional stress our soldiers experience with PTSD, we live in a culture that encour-ages us to say that we are “fine” when we are not, and to say that “it’s all good,” when in fact things are not good with us. Additionally, when the pain and discon-nection are too much, we are encouraged to self-medicate with alcohol, prescription medications or a host of illegal mind and mood altering drugs. I honestly believe that we are a drug taking culture; we do not face or adapt to our challenges as

much as we chase away the pain that challenges bring us. In the long run, this leads to more addiction, and more mem-bers of our aging population suffering from dementia as a result of years of mind numbing, pain killing habits.

That is why I see spas and spa thera-pists as being on the front line, in charge of changing the course of these unfortu-nate trends in our culture. In the speed

disaster (such as a hurricane, earthquake, house fire or nuclear meltdown). Even a sudden loss of income and the changes that creates in our living circumstances and sense of well-being can be a trigger.

When we broaden the lens and look at all of these traumatic events of the unstable times we live in, it is easy to realize that many people are suffering with varying degrees of post traumatic stress. Within the spa, this includes not only our clients, but also our co-workers

and even ourselves. Therefore, when a spa therapist walks into the room to soothe, comfort and bring healing en-ergy to their client, they too may be in need of the same for themselves. PTSD affects the culture, atmosphere and ap-proach to care and comfort of every spa or facility that offers healing.

But just like the stigma that used to be associated with the mental and emo-

TWO RECOMMENDATIONS THAT FALL INTO THE LIFESTYLE CATEGORY AND ARE PROVING

THEMSELVES TO BE HIGHLY EFFECTIVE IN ADDRESSING PTSD ARE YOGA AND MEDITATION.

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and hustle of turbulent times, spas are an oasis to cultivate a more healthy and positive response to the challenges and traumas we face, day in and day out.

While most of us are familiar with the adage in medicine which says, “Physician, heal thyself,” the same could be said for spa therapists. Unless this reality is acknowledged and ad-dressed, we will continue to see staff burnout and turnover. It is one of the reasons I have written any number of articles talking about staff wellness; a need to create more space and time for therapists to receive treatments, take proper breaks and so on. On the same note, the recommendations that follow are as much for therapists as they are for the clients we serve.

Without question, everyone would probably like to see a reduction of stress in their lives; with a happy home life, plenty of money in the bank and ample time for blissful vacations with ever smiling friends. But while these things may all happen sporadically and for brief periods of time, it is senseless to endlessly hope for this to be the an-swer. Rather, it would seem that stress “inoculation” is a far better first step in addressing the many challenges of life.

There is an old Buddhist slogan: “It is easier to put on shoes than try to cover the world in leather.” Life hap-pens. Based on our lifestyle, we will be either better or lesser equipped to manage life’s trials and tribulations as they come at us. A good diet, exercise, healthy hygiene practices, quality rest and ample time to spend with family or friends—a sense of community—all contribute to creating the kind of in-oculation that makes stressful events more easy to cope with. Such a lifestyle also gives you more resilience and re-sources when the stressors are greater than what you have previously expe-rienced. This lifestyle is a foundation you can build upon, the type of lifestyle that every spa should be sharing and modeling for each and every client that walks through the door.

In the tradition of Ayurveda, the sci-ence of well-being that my wife Melanie continues

and I teach, this is called “first level med-icine.” These first four levels of medicine are considered to be 90 to 95 percent of the game. Get your lifestyle in order and promote such a lifestyle amongst your family, friends and clients, and so many of the vicissitudes of life become much more manageable from the very start. An Ayurvedic understanding of different body types and how they are effected by environment and circum-stance makes this paradigm even more effective in honing the optimal lifestyle to deal with and be more resilient in the face of stressful challenges. With respect to Ayurveda in general, two recom-mendations that fall into the lifestyle category and are proving themselves to be highly effective in addressing PTSD are yoga and meditation.

However, there are certainly still times when life gets the best of us; events occur that push us beyond what we are capable of managing well. This is where a second level of Ayurvedic healing comes in. On this level, there

are forms of body work, hydrothera-pies and supplementation, all intended to detox the buildup of physical and emotional stress we are accumulating, as well as rejuvenating that which has become depleted. The therapies we have found to be most effective on this level from the tradition of Ayurveda are Shirodhara, the playing of a warm stream of oil onto the forehead for a period of time; Abhyanga, full body ole-ation using body/mind specific oils and the application of vital energy points known as marmas; Marma chilitsa, the specific use of marma points which are to the chakra grid what acupuncture points are to the acupuncture merid-ians; and chakra work itself, includ-ing subtle therapies such as reiki. Like yoga and meditation, the reason for their effectiveness in addressing PTSD is that such therapies work at both an emotional and physical level. Mind and body are implicitly treated simultane-ously through these approaches, as the mind is always considered to take precedence, but also the cause for all things physical. In its appreciation of the subtle elements, energies and points, Ayurveda provides an explanation for promoting the mind-body approach and yielding the greatest benefits for those suffering with PTSD.

While spa goers and those who have sought out alternative and com-plimentary medicine have heard of or experienced the benefits of such therapies and lifestyle recommenda-tions, this does not mean that their benefits for post-traumatic stress have ever been overtly discussed or em-phasized. Few spa menus would tout such claims. However, it is interesting to note that in the last three to five years, more and more veterans and veteran organizations have come to recognize the value of practices such as yoga and meditation—important components to a healthy lifestyle—and the role of both massage and hydrotherapy. Both sec-ond level Ayurvedic healing approaches play a part in the treatment and ongo-ing support for those living with and

WE LIVE IN A CULTURE THAT ENCOURAGES US TO SAY THAT WE ARE “FINE” WHEN WE ARE NOT, AND TO SAY THAT “IT’S ALL GOOD,” WHEN IN FACT THINGS ARE NOT GOOD WITH US.

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trying to overcome the effects of PTSD. We have also seen the benefit of wa-ter-based therapies, such as hot tubs and watsu, in both detoxification and relaxation, respectively. One program still in its infancy is the Warrior Water Center project, developed by former Brig. General James T. Cook, who sees the value of these therapies and life-style recommendations for returning veterans and their families.

Along with our support of this proj-ect, year after year we have seen how educating clients in healthy and bal-anced lifestyles, supported by detoxi-fying and rejuvenating body therapies of Ayurveda, has long-term benefits, and transforms the lives of those who have suffered traumas, regardless of how such events have come to them.

We should not forget that there are many whose lives have already been touched with disasters and hurtful trau-mas of life that none of us would hope to face. The weight they carry from the

traumas of their past make them feel numb to life. In my book, The Wisdom of The Buddhist Masters, I had the opportunity to interview some of the wisest people I know, who suggested that in the uncertainty of our times, we should think about the welfare of those around us to help overcome our fear of what could happen next.

We all need to become healthier and more realistic in our lives, accepting the truth of impermanence and the sheer fragileness of life itself. We cannot hide from our own mortality. To move through life with this awareness is actually quite liberating. It invites us to live life fully, alive and conscious. The stresses and traumas we have experienced do not have to define or limit the love we have for life. By building a healthy, vibrant lifestyle, cleansing and rejuvenating our minds and bodies to shed the accumulation of stress, and doing it all in the context of a supportive community ensures that when our life on Earth ends, we are able

to face whatever comes next with a smile on our face and love in our hearts.

This type of wellness is what we want anyway. So why not start doing what it takes today? How incredible would it be if every spa consciously—and with commitment—communicated such a vision? n

Robert Sachs is a counselor, licensed mas-sage therapist and educator. He is the au-thor of Tibetan Ayur veda: Health Secrets from The Roof of The World and co-author with Melanie Sachs of Ayur-vedic Spa. Visit Sachs’ website at www.DiamondWayAyurveda.com, e-mail him at [email protected], call him toll-free at 866.303.3321 or phone/fax him at 805.543.9291.

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homeopathythe healing power of

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THANKS TO CANCER ADVOCACY GROUPS, THE AWARENESS surrounding this potentially devastating disease has increased dras-tically over the past decade. With this awareness comes increased funding for medical research, which has led to the dramatic in-crease in life-saving discoveries for current and future patients with

cancer. Interestingly enough, one of the emerging therapies on the treatment landscape is homeopathy, a 200-year-old system of medicine that is used suc-cessfully today by over 100 million people worldwide.

Homeopathy is a system of medicine in which very diluted substances from na-ture are used to stimulate a healing response in the body. Homeopathic remedies are gentle, non-toxic and safe to use with other cancer therapies, both conven-tional and alternative types.

Homeopathy is a “vitalistic” approach to medicine, meaning that its philosophy is founded on the principle that the human body has an amazing capacity to heal itself. Given the right stimulus, the body can easily regain balance and homeosta-sis within its physiological functions, restoring an individual’s health and wellness.

There are hundreds of high-quality, peer-reviewed, pre-clinical and clinical stud-ies that demonstrate the efficacy of homeopathy in the treatment of disease. With reference to cancer, research has shown homeopathy to be quite effective in remov-ing malignancy and lessening the side effects of conventional treatment without diminishing the treatment’s efficacy.

One recent study showed significant and stable improvement in mental and physical fatigue, as well as improved quality of life for patients treated with home-opathy alongside conventional medical care.1. Another study that focused solely on homeopathic therapy without convention-

al treatments showed greatly increased survival rates for pancreatic, liver and stomach cancers, as compared with patients receiving conventional treatment.

2. Findings from a third study suggest that ultra-diluted homeopathic remedies can kill breast cancer cells in Petri dishes.

3. The goal of homeopathic treatment of cancer is twofold. Inherently, homeopathic treatment increases an individual’s health by strengthening the immune system and allowing the body to build its own defenses against cancer growth and re-currence. When symptoms of the actual cancer are present—and are unrelated to chemotherapy, radiation or surgery, treatment can be focused directly on the tumor or cancer cells in an effort to eradicate cancer with specific treatment. Homeopathy is a very precise approach to an individual’s experience with

cancer and cancer treatment. Every patient with cancer experiences a specific set of symptoms, unique in pattern, intensity, quality and occurrence; this individu-ality is reflected in choosing the single most appropriate homeopathic remedy for treatment. Ten patients with colon cancer seeking homeopathic treatment would most likely be prescribed a different homeopathic remedy based on their individual expressions of the disease. 4

BY ELIZABETH RICE, N.D.

holistic remedies for health

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Homeopathic remedies come in several forms: tablets, powders, liquids and ointments. Tablets are the most common and popular of these. Tablets are sugar pills infused with the liquid remedy. They are taken sublingually (dissolved under the tongue).

NOT ONLY CAN HOMEOPATHY BE USED TO TREAT COMPLEX DISEASES LIKE CANCER, IT CAN ALSO BE EASILY APPLIED TO MORE COMMON EVERYDAY HEALTH ISSUES, SUCH AS ACNE, ALLERGIES, ECZEMA AND MOOD DISORDERS.




This same principle applies to treat-ing patients who undergo conventional treatments such as chemotherapy, radia-tion and surgery. For example, a vast majority of patients experience fatigue during chemotherapy. Some may ex-perience this fatigue as weakness and

have difficulty getting out of bed, while others may be able to get out of bed but have difficulty performing simple tasks. And still others are able to perform daily tasks, but consistently hit a wall at certain times every day. Addressing this individual susceptibility is a core prin-ciple of homeopathic treatment.

Not only can homeopathy be used to treat complex diseases like cancer, it can also be easily applied to more common everyday health issues, such as acne, allergies, eczema and mood dis-orders. Therefore, it can be very useful in a spa or any wellness environment.

Common homeopathic remedies, including arnica montana or cantharis,

would come in handy for patients feeling the after-effects of a deep tissue massage or chemical peel. A single dose of arnica montana 30C would be greatly indicated for the sore, bruised feeling that follows a very successful deep tissue body treat-ment aimed at releasing knots and ten-sion in the muscle fibers. Cantharis 30C would be greatly indicated to help de-crease the burning and redness following a chemical facial peel. Any swelling with redness accompanied by heat following a chemical peel might be greatly reduced by a single dose of apis mellifica 30C.

A very common remedy for skin af-flictions—including eczema, is sulphur. Sulphur can provide effective relief in a case of eczema where the skin is dry, red and very itchy, prompting the person to scratch it until they bleed. Their eczema would also be worse after bathing, espe-cially in hot water, and the itching would aggravate at night in bed. Typically, pa-tients with eczema require chronic treat-ment, as the condition often relapses and remits before a complete cure is achieved.

Acne vulgaris can be successfully treated with homeopathy by remedies such as natrum muriaticum, staphysagria, or silicea terra depending on the individu-al’s presentation, and quite often the men-tal/emotional state of the patient as well.

Clients in a spa and wellness envi-ronment would also greatly benefit from a more fundamental approach to their chronic skin conditions by partnering with a trained homeopathic practitioner for a fully individualized intake, evaluation and homeopathic remedy prescription. n

Elizabeth Rice, N.D., is co-founder of the Arizona Natural Health Center Cancer Care team. She is one of only a few physicians in the country to have com-pleted a spe-cialty residency in homeopathy. The homeopathic approach to cancer treatment addresses the underlying im-balances in the body, contributing to cancer growth and function.

COMMON HOMEOPATHIC REMEDIES, INCLUDING ARNICA

MONTANA OR CANTHARIS, WOULD COME IN HANDY FOR PATIENTS FEELING THE AFTER-

EFFECTS OF A DEEP TISSUE MASSAGE OR CHEMICAL PEEL.




INCORPORATING INTEGRATIVE ONCOLOGY INTO

THE SPA EXPERIENCE

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TODAY’S “HEALTH SPA”A DEEPER MEANING FOR



BY HEATHER PAULSON, N.D.

INCORPORATING INTEGRATIVE ONCOLOGY INTO

THE SPA EXPERIENCE

al well-being, clearer thinking, decreased neuropathy and improvements in mobility.

Acupuncture for cancer careAcupuncture is one of the most re-searched areas of integrative medi-cine in oncology. Studies have looked at the use of acupuncture for reducing serious treatment side effects such as neuropathy (numbness and tingling), sleep disturbances, fatigue, pain and hot flashes.

Notably, acupuncture can also be helpful in reducing chemotherapy-in-duced nausea and vomiting, particularly by stimulating the point Pericardium 6 (P6). Point stimulation to P6 using acu-pressure also seems to be effective.

Acupuncturists can obtain specialized training in cancer care through Memorial Sloan Kettering and M.D. Anderson.

Massage for cancer careMassage therapy is currently being stud-ied for emotional support, pain relief, reduction of blood pressure, increased energy and swelling. In my clinical prac-tice, I often recommend myofascial re-lease for post-surgical rehabilitation.

When I was treating a 56-year-old female who had gotten a mastectomy for breast cancer, she was only able to lift her arm as high as her nose. This limited motion started three years ago, immediately following her mastectomy. I referred her for myofascial release to break up scar tissue and improve motion. The patient came back after six weeks of treatment, and was able to raise her arm over her head. She was thrilled! After years of being limited by restricted

MANY PEOPLE WITH CANCER, AS well as those who have survived the ill-ness, often ask the question: “Is there something more I could be doing?” As a matter of fact, the answer is usually a resounding “yes.” Participation in “inte-grative oncology” at a wellness spa can have a profound impact, and provides a sense of empowerment outside the doctor’s office. Simply put, it is a great way to feel support, hope and vitality for the cancer journey.

But in order to understand how a spa environment can support someone diag-nosed with cancer, one must understand the definition of a few terms.

Conventional medicine is a system of medicine that uses drugs, surgery and radiation to treat disease.

Complementary medicine is a sup-portive therapy that is used in conjunc-tion with conventional medical care. Complementary treatments are non-pharmacological, and reduce physical and emotional symptoms of disease.

Alternative medicine is a therapy chosen by a patient in place of con-ventional medical care.

Integrative medicine combines con-ventional medical care with complemen-tary and alternative therapies to provide a safe, effective and holistic model of health care for patients.

Integrative cancer care can easily be part of the spa experience with mo-dalities such as acupuncture, massage, myofascial release, yoga, meditation, nutrition and exercise.

The long-term impact of these types of complementary and integrative treat-ments include stress reduction, weight management, increased energy, emotion-

movement, she could finally reach the top shelf in her cupboards.

Yoga and meditation for cancer careThe use of meditation and yoga can be invaluable for the emotional and spiritual recovery after a cancer diag-nosis. Beyond emotional support, guid-ed meditation techniques have been shown to improve surgical results by improving wound healing and decreas-ing intake of pain medication. Yoga and meditation can be used for reducing fatigue and medication induced joint pain, improve “chemo brain” and re-duce cortisol. Yoga might also improve bone density, which can be effected by certain cancer medications. Cancer survivors can join a group yoga class or work one on one with a yoga thera-pist, depending on their specific con-cerns and limitations. A great resource for yoga therapists is the International Association of Yoga Therapy (IAYT).

Precautions in treating people with cancerIt is important for any spa facility to rec-ognize certain precautions while treating cancer survivors. One area of concern is weight loss during conventional treat-ment. Often, weight loss during treat-ment results from a loss of muscle mass rather than fat mass. Losing muscle mass exposes cancer patients to increased weakness and fatigue. You can monitor weight loss with bioelectrical impedance assessment, or BIA, which tracks fat and muscle mass while clients make dietary changes and improve exercise routines.

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Also, treatment of any areas of lymph-edema or edema without specialized training is highly discouraged. It would be ideal to hire a therapist with addi-tional training in wrapping, massaging and preventing edema.

Before initiating any sauna or hot/cold water therapies, be sure the client has been cleared by a physician for treat-ment. Cancer treatments can decrease the function of the heart and lungs. Start slowly with your treatments and limit the length of the initial treatment to see how your client responds before proceeding.

Skin changes are another side effect of cancer treatment. Estheticians should be aware that following cancer treatment, skin can have an increase in small blood ves-sels, redness and sensitivity. Even if a client did not have problems in the past, they may have problems with exfoliation and peels after cancer treatment. Also, certain medications can cause sun sensitivity, es-pecially the medications used for breast cancer, colon cancer and lymphoma.

Utilizing experts in integrative oncologyIf you or your facility decide to begin offering specialty services for people with cancer, be sure to use qualified and specialty-trained staff. If you are look-ing for experts in medicine and com-plementary care, you can look to the Oncology Association of Naturopathic Physicians (OncANP) for additional sup-port and guidance.

Naturopathic physicians are the most highly trained doctors in the use of natural therapies, nutrition, herbs and homeopathy in the treatment of serious health conditions. The OncANP provides board certification in naturopathic oncol-ogy, which represents the highest level of expertise in combining integrative therapies with conventional oncology.

Today there are an estimated 12 mil-lion cancer survivors in the United States. Thus, supporting cancer survivors is a great place for spas to begin their “inte-grative oncology” programs. However,

when you take the time to train staff and use resources such as integrative phy-sicians, the treatments offered at your facility could help improve the quality of life for those currently dealing with cancer, as well as survivors. n

Heather Paulson, N.D., a Fellow of the American Board of Naturopathic Oncology, is a member of the Arizona Natural Health Center Cancer Care team and one of the most accom-plished naturo-pathic oncologists in the country. In addition to treat-ing patients, Dr. Paulson teach-es oncology at the Southwest College of Naturopathic Medicine and volunteers for the Desert Cancer Foundation of Arizona, where she sits on the board. She can be reached at [email protected].

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if a technician is going to even attempt to help these special clients, they must have many years of experience in the field under their belts, and they should have taken advanced paramedical train-ing in dealing with skin that has been burned, or previously undergone laser or radiation treatment. Keep in mind that skin that has been lasered in the past will continue to “eat” anything it recognizes as foreign matter. Clients must wait at least three to six months after the medical treatment to try to re-pigment any area.

Certification by The Society of Perm-anent Cosmetic Professionals (spcp.org) is the bare minimum accreditation clients should seek when choosing a knowledgeable practitioner. A portfolio of “before and after” images provides an additional reference to skill and es-thetics. You should include many photos of your work for your potential clients to review. Their confidence in your abilities will make them see your work as a viable answer to their prayer.

The consultation and analysis that you provide as the certified permanent cos-metic professional should indicate com-passion and expertise, an additional ba-rometer for the patient who has recently gone through a major life change. You do not want your client to feel “buyer’s remorse.” If they conduct a careful review of their options, they will find the certified technician that best satisfies their needs. This is a permanent decision; the only way to restore color within skin is tattooing it. There is no such thing as a “semi-perma-nent” procedure. All color fades a bit over time, but the procedure of implanting a “micron of pigment” provides a perma-nent benefit when it is done well. So it is important for clients to be certain that you are the right person to help them.

“I FEEL NAKED UNTIL I PUT MY face on.” Have you ever heard a woman say this? For many women, putting on their makeup is more than just a part of their morning routine; it is a symbol of their femininity. This is even more true for those suffering from cancer, alopecia and Parkinson’s disease, not to mention anyone who is a burn victim, scarred, sight impaired or has a cleft lip. Like doing their hair and dabbing on their favorite scent, applying eye makeup and lipstick makes women feel more beautiful, self-confident and ready to face whatever the day has in store. Even women who favor the natural look and choose to skip foundation prefer the way they look with a dash of eyeliner, a swipe of mascara and a touch of lip-stick. Makeup enhances our natural beauty and makes us feel good about ourselves. Those with obvious facial scars have the added burden of needing more makeup base to cover those imperfections.

A long illness, stroke, arthritis, muscu-lar dystrophy, accident or degenerative disease such as alopecia or cancer strikes at the very core of who a person is, as an individual and as a woman. The inabil-ity to apply makeup when motor skills are lost and hands shake beyond one’s control can be a tragic blow to a wom-an’s femininity and general sense of self. Without makeup, she no longer sees the woman she once was when she looks in the mirror, and this is a loss that cuts her deeply. We are there to listen to our cli-ent to find out how she used to put on her makeup when she was able to, and then to replicate that for her as best we can. This helps her feel closer to the way she used to feel about herself as a wom-an. Permanent cosmetics can restore a woman’s sense of personal beauty and confidence in her appearance. However,

Various contraindications may also delay treatment. For example, those who are currently undergoing chemotherapy, during which the immune system is com-promised, should seek the advice of their physician as to the best time to start any permanent cosmetic procedure after finishing chemotherapy. Certain medica-tions can also be contraindications, such as Synthroid, which may influence the stability of color over time. Remember, the body’s skin changes, and so will any coloration exposed to sun without SPF protection. However it takes years to fade, and maintenance applications will keep color fresh.

Permanent cosmetics is an excellent choice for any woman, and an educated client will be more pleased with the re-sults than one who goes to someone who is not certified or did not take the time to explain the process. As professionals, the services and treatment we give are always done with the finest attention to detail, but it is the compassion and care we of-fer that make a lasting impression. n

Melany Whitney is a nationally rec-ognized expert and spokesperson for the permanent makeup industry. A board certified permanent makeup artist instructor, member and trainer for the Society of Permanent Cosmetic Professionals, Whitney has taught at the Florida College of Natural Health. She frequently appears on television and is quoted in national publications sharing her expertise. For more in-formation or to contact Whitney, visit www.permanentmkup.com.

by Melany Whitney

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IN TIMES PAST, CANCER WAS A disease that was spoken of in hushed, frightened tones ... sadly, it has now become a common illness, as more cases are diagnosed than ever before. Fortunately, the treatments for cancer have improved and survival rates are higher than ever.

It seems that the dreaded disease has infiltrated our families, economy, businesses and society more than any-one ever thought possible. I will never forget the day I received a phone call from my mother while she was in treat-ment, asking me to help her remove the last of the hair on her head. Combing the last loose hairs away from her scalp as tears streamed down my face was a traumatic event for me. I vowed then that I would reach out and help as many people facing this great challenge as I possibly could.

So how can we as beauty profession-als care for clients who are diagnosed with cancer, and are enduring chemo-therapy and radiation treatments? There are a number of ways we can reach out to those who are battling against this enemy to their health!

Each person is a three-part being: body, spirit and soul. As a professional makeup artist and esthetician, I try to treat all areas with my own gifts and skills. One way to reach out to women in our community is by volunteering for the Look Good, Feel Better Program.

In 1987, a physician contacted former Personal Care Products Council president Ed Kavanaugh and asked how he could arrange a “makeover” for one of his pa-tients that was enduring cancer treat-

ments. The woman was so depressed and self-conscious that she would not even venture outside of her hospital room. Kavanaugh made some calls, obtained some cosmetics and a cos-metologist, and provided the woman with a makeover that not only changed her appearance, but her entire outlook.

Soon, the American Cancer So-ciety, Personal Care Products Council, Professional Beauty Association and National Cosmetology Association all joined forces to launch this wonderful volunteer program, which encouraged the restoration of a sense of beauty to thousands of women in 1989.

Over the past several years, a num-ber of my personal clients have been diagnosed with different forms of cancer that left them exhausted, pale and losing hair. Just as the disease requires them to take special care of themselves, the rest of us need to use our skills to take special care of these women in need. Not only are they in emotional distress, their skin is in distress as well.

First and foremost, always be lov-ing and compassionate about the situ-ation that clients with cancer are going

through. Second, speak in upbeat and positive tones, encouraging them with a few valuable makeup techniques and tips. A very gentle touch is required. Some of the side effects your clients may encounter are dryness, photosensitivity, hyperpigmentation, flushing and rashes. While touching their skin or applying makeup, use an extra gentle touch and pressure so as not to abrade the skin or cause any discomfort.

Use only products that are formu-lated for sensitive skin, and avoid any-thing that contains perfumes, dyes or harsh additives. There are now good skin care lines available that cater to these skin types, and will not upset or distress the skin further. Choose the very softest makeup brushes and teach your client step by step how to redraw brows and lashes that have fallen out due to treatments. Nails are also of-ten dehydrated, and extra moisture is needed for them.

The rewarding sense of satisfaction I feel when a woman looks in the mir-ror after her makeover and beams with happiness is truly the greatest feeling! By giving our clients affected by cancer a new look, we are helping them face their day a little stronger, with a much more positive attitude and a smile that brightens their whole face. n

Mary Turner is the owner of Mary Turner Skin Care and Day Spa in New Castle, PA. Licensed since 1983, she has been a makeup artist for runway modeling, professional modeling shoots and televi-sion. Turner is the director of the National Aesthetic Spa Network for the Northeast.

by Mary Turner

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LASHFULLY IS AN UPSCALE BEAUTY lounge with several locations in California that specializes in lash application and enhancing the eye area. We believe that all women deserve to look their very best.

Our philosophy is to educate clients on how to keep their natural lashes healthy while wearing lash extensions. To ensure maximum effectiveness, our

lash artists take the time to thoroughly explain to clients the dos and don’ts of maintaining healthy lashes. Clients are also given an aftercare kit and detailed instructions that specify how to care for their new full set of lashes.

In order to keep lashes healthy while wearing extensions, we suggest the daily application of hormone-free lash growth conditioners to enhance the natural growth cycle of the lashes. This is vital to strengthening, thicken-ing and reinforcing the natural lashes.

We feel that no matter what condi-tion the client’s lashes are in when they come to us for help, we have the knowl-edge, skills and products to help with the recovery to healthier, more luscious

lashes. Each Lashfully lash artist is rigor-ously trained; they go through numer-ous tests to ensure that the application process has the best results. Use only medical-grade lashes and adhesives that have been tested to ensure that they are safe to use around the eye. For the most sensitive clients, a lash technician should carry specially formulated adhe-sives that won’t be irritating.

Lashes are the most important part of the face, and we feel that no woman should have to give that up. We are es-pecially supportive of clients who are going through or have gone through cancer treatments like chemotherapy. Every woman is beautiful and deserves to feel and look her very best every day. That is the reason we offer several lash and makeup options that result in a cus-tomized, stylish and natural look. Use the thinnest and lightest band lashes that are discreet enough to look natu-ral and effortless. In addition to being practically invisible, these band lashes can be customized to each individual, including those in any stage of cancer treatment. We stock over 70 types of

lashes that vary in length, curvature and thickness in order to customize a look that matches each client’s desire. This is an alternative service to undergo while waiting for natural lashes to re-cover from the harsh cancer therapies.

Prostaglandin-free lash growth se-rums and conditioners are highly sug-gested for those who are in “lash rehab.” These clients will be back to batting their beautiful lashes if they use these products day and night. Once the lash-es are back to their healthy state, lash extensions can be applied. We start by using the lightest of lashes, and build up to a thicker lash. Never apply thicker lashes during the rehab stage until you know that the natural lashes can with-stand them.

The most important thing clients should consider when it comes to get-ting lash extensions is where they get them. Educate and encourage clients to visit a reputable facility that specializes

by Liv Contreras and Matana LePlae

lash experts providing beauty 24/7

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PROSTAGLANDIN-FREE LASH GROWTH SERUMS AND CONDITIONERS ARE HIGHLY SUGGESTED

FOR THOSE WHO ARE IN “LASH REHAB.”

lash therapy



Liv Contreras is the co-founder of Lashfully. She has been a li-censed esthe-tician for more than 17 years. Contreras is an instructor of ad-vanced esthetics, and has specialized in lash extensions for over 10 years.

Matana LePlae is the co-founder of Lashfully. With a passion for cre-ating brands and experiences, she designs each Lashfully loca-tion. LaPlae is a huge fan of lash extensions and the way they provide a polished, beautiful look with little everyday effort.

in lash application, a place that uses a non-formaldehyde adhesive, and will not apply lashes that are too heavy.

Lash extensions are a great way to enhance natural beauty 24/7 and create additional revenue for any salon or spa. Lash artists are the specialized experts on extensions, and have the opportunity to give clients confidence in their appear-ance at any stage of life. n

image|lash therapy


Visit us in Long Beach,

CA at booth 513,Sept. 9-10

LASHFULLY EYELASH SERVICES MENU Full Set of Customized Eyelash Extensions: $250Touch-Up Eyelash Extensions: $75Bottom Eyelash Extensions: $45Lash Extension Light (lasts 4-7 days): $75Variety of Strip Eyelashes: $18 - $25Eyelash Tinting: $20Glamour Lashes, including eye makeup (lasts 2-3 days): $35Glamour Lashes (no makeup): $25

LASH EXTENSIONS ARE A GREAT WAY

TO ENHANCE NATURAL BEAUTY 24/7 AND CREATE

ADDITIONAL REVENUE FOR ANY

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MORE NEWS

MAKEUP, TOOLS AND TRENDS

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AROMATIC SELECTIONSThe three distinct Solid Perfume Blending Palettes from Mélange Perfume make a great spa retail item and gift idea to brighten anyone’s day. Each Palette contains four solid perfumes and blending instructions. They are hand-poured using essential oils and fine fragrance notes with a signature base of jojoba oil and beeswax. The pleasing natural aromas can also help lift the spirits of guests struggling with an illness. www.melangeperfume.com

GET A BOOST!Help your clients enhance the appearance of their bust area with glotherapeutics’ Volumizing Breast Cream, a hydrating cream that tones the breasts and décolletage and boosts volume, says the company. The formula’s botanical blend of ingredients helps stimulate blood flow and provides nourishment and protection.www.gloprofessional.com

BLING IT ON!Make your clients feel glamorous and give their eyes sparkle with Goddess Lashes. The luxurious 100 percent mink lashes are handmade, with a seamless adhesive band to allow the extensions to be worn up to 25 times while retaining their original look and shape, says the company. Swarovski crystals can be added to the temporary lashes, or they can be applied without any adornments for a more natural look.www.goddesslashes.com

PROTECT AND CORRECTThe Amazing Base® SPF 20 from jane iredale—THE SKIN CARE MAKEUP, is a loose mineral foundation with a creamy, luminous look and UVA/UVB broad-spectrum sun protection. It provides exceptional, silky coverage of any condition including redness, brown spots, eczema or rosacea. Free of oil, talc, dyes and parabens, it is highly water resistant.www.janeiredale.com


http://www.melangeperfume.com

Page 122 • www.LNEONLINE.com

EYE OPENINGThe Chella Brow & Eye Collection incorporates 21 products that address all aspects of brow, lash and eye enhancement. From color kits and conditioners to masks and mascara, each product is specifically formulated to enhance the eye and create a more beautiful look. www.chella.com

LASTING LASH ENHANCEMENTThe amazing 28 Day Mascara from Godefroy® can tint eyelashes for up to six weeks. The gel formula’s foolproof, easy application enables precise application, requires no mixing and does not drip. In less than five minutes, your clients leave your spa looking their best for a month or more! It is available in black and brown. www.godefroybeauty.com

SWEET SENSATIONThe delicious Not Your Mother’s lipgloss from Irresistible Beauty Cosmetics has the delightful smell of baked cookies. The nude pink shade is sexy, shiny and filled with macadamia nut oil, rose hip oil and other beneficial ingredients.www.irresistiblebeautycosmetics.com

RECAPTURING YOUTHThe new Digital Hand by Bellaire Industry is an innovative permanent makeup device that is quiet, safe and easy to use. It features a five speed digital control. The microneedling device allows users to stimulate collagen and elastin growth while improving skin tone. Both compact devices use disposable needle cartridges that ensure the safety of both the user and the client, says the company. www.bellaireindustry.com

IMA

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EWS MAKEUP,

TOOLS AND TRENDS

SOFT, NATURAL LIPSThe pretty, ultra glamorous pink Gourmandise des Alpes lip balm from Pure Altitude provides lips with nutrition and repair, says the company. The formula of edelweiss, raspberry oil, beeswax, shea butter and vitamin E insulates lips from harmful outside elements to protect them, and helps chapped lips to regenerate. www.pure-altitude.com


http://www.chella.com

http://www.godefroybeauty.com

http://www.bellaireindustry.com


PRODUCTSRefectocil Tint Pure Black, Blue-Black, Natural Brown, Light Brown, Deep Blue, Graphite, Chestnut, Red and Blonde Bleaching Paste. 1.877.547.5463 www.dermagraphicsinc.com

EDUCATION / TRAININGLEARN NEW TECHNIQUES THROUGH DVDS - FREE CATALOG Aesthetic VideoSource offers award-winning, comprehensive instructional DVDs: Facials, Facial Massage, Facial Equipment Techniques, Waxing, BOTOX, Dermal Fillers, Laser Hair Removal, Spa & Body Treatments, Threading, Manicures, Pedicures, Makeup, and Massage. 800.414.2434 www.VideoShelf.com. Free sample video clips online.

EMPLOYMENTRD Management is the USA agent for several International companies. Specifically, we are looking for Superior Sales Reps for two important brands: MATIS-Paris and Academie Scientifique – Two outstanding skincare lines. We are also looking for part time trainers for each of these brands. Prime territories are available – territories can be flexible full or part-time. Come grow with us! Contact us for more details and to submit your resume email to: [email protected]

Éminence Organic Skin Care is looking for their next outstanding International Trainer. Must be a licensed esthetician, have 2 years experience with Éminence products and willing to travel extensivly. Previous training experience an asset. Visit www.eminenceorganics.com to learn more.

We are a French cosmeceutical skin care company distributed through a network of 70 business partners in 64 countries around the world. We are actually looking for an exclusive business partner in the USA. For more information please visit our website at www.ericson-laboratoire.com or send an e-mail to [email protected]

Image Skincare seeks Territory Managers to join U.S. sales force Are you an esthetician? Do you want an income with no limits? Do you have sales experience? Are you self-motivated with an entrepreneurial mindset? Would you like a flexible schedule? Do you LOVE this business? If you have answered “yes” to these questions and are interested in working for the most fun, dynamic and innovative company in the cosmeceutical industry, send your resume to [email protected] and visit http://www.imageskincare.com/pages/job-opportunities for a list of available territories.

classified ads

To place an ad, please call 800.471.0229 ext. 103, e-mail [email protected] or visit www.lneonline.com.


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WEB-EXCLUSIVE ARTICLES ...DAILY BREAKING NEWS ...

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http://www.imageskincare.com/pages/job-opportunities




SEPTEMBER 8Integrating Wellness Services in the Spa, Salon and Health Care Worlds

by Day Spa Association.Long Beach, CA. 800.471.0229.

National Esthetic Teacher Training Conference

by NCEA. Long Beach, CA. 800.471.0229.

SEPTEMBER 9-10The International Congress of Esthetics and Spaby Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa and Dermascope.Long Beach, CA. 800.471.0229.

SEPTEMBER 10Know Your Facial Anatomy

by Bio-Therapeutic. Seattle, WA. 800.976.2544.

SEPTEMBER 10-145-Day Intenisve Skin & Body Care Training

by Phytomer. Salt Lake City, UT. 800.227.8051.

Full-Spectrum Reiki for Beauty Professionals: Integrated Reiki Spa Treatments

by Linda Bertaut at Bertaut Beauty. Pasadena and San Francisco, CA. 626.405.0424.

HydroPeptide Product Training Seminar

by HydroPeptide. Webinars held Mondays at 10 a.m. PST. www.hydropeptide.com/webinars.

Seasonal Peels and Unusual Actives

by A Natural Difference Skincare.Encinitas, CA. 888.568.3150.


by A Natural Difference Skincare.Long Beach, CA. 888.568.3150.


by A Natural Difference Skincare.Seattle, WA. 888.568.3150.

West

SEPTEMBER (ONGOING)Advanced Chemical Peels with Skin Assessment

by A Natural Difference.Encinitas, CA. 888.568.3150.

Advanced Chemical Peels with Skin Assessment

by A Natural Difference Skincare.Long Beach, CA.888.568.3150.


by A Natural Difference Skincare.Seattle, WA. 888.568.3150.

Antiqua Prima Level I Introductory Classes

by Laura L. Root. Webinars held every Monday and Friday. 866.358.1694 Ext. 4.Distance learning available.

WestCentralEastInternational

WEST | CENTRAL | EAST

CALENDAR OF EVENTS


http://www.hydropeptide.com/webinars


Pumpkin Rejuvenationby Advanced Rejuvenating Concepts. Webinar at 6:00 p.m. P.S.T.800.689.0499.

SEPTEMBER 30Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar

by PCA Skin.Denver, CO. 877.PCA.SKIN.

Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar

by PCA Skin.Riverside, CA. 877.PCA.SKIN.


by PCA Skin.San Diego, CA. 877.PCA.SKIN.


by PCA Skin.Scottsdale, AZ. 877.PCA.SKIN.


by PCA Skin. San Francisco, CA. 877.PCA.SKIN.

SEPTEMBER 18Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course



by PCA Skin. Los Angeles, CA. 877.PCA.SKIN.


by PCA Skin. Los Angeles, CA. 877.PCA.SKIN.

SEPTEMBER 26Energize Your Skin With ATP


SEPTEMBER 11Bio-Brasion Curriculum


SEPTEMBER 12Bio-Dermology Curriculum


SEPTEMBER 13Bio-Ultimate Platinum Curriculum

by Bio-Therapeutic. Seattle, WA. 800.976.2544.P

SEPTEMBER 14Bio-Synthesis Curriculum


SEPTEMBER 16Advanced Peeling Techniques for Complex Skin Conditions: A Hands-on Course


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OCTOBER 21In-House Product Knowledge Training

by Skin Script Skin Care. Tempe, AZ. 480.543.1121.

Central

SEPTEMBER(ONGOING)Advanced Chemical Peels with Skin Assessment

by A Natural Difference Skincare.Dallas, TX. 888.568.3150.

HydroPeptide Product Training Webinar

by HydroPeptide. Webinars held Mondays at 12 p.m. C.S.T. www.hydropeptide.com/webinars.

SEPTEMBER 9Skin Biology & Peel Seminar

by PCA Skin.Houston, TX. 877.PCA.SKIN.


by PCA Skin.Chicago, IL.877.PCA.SKIN.

OCTOBER 15Inside the Age Defying Facial


OCTOBER 15-173-Day Intensive Skin Care Training

by Phytomer. Salt Lake City, UT. 800.227.8051.P

OCTOBER 16Bio-Dermology Curriculum

by Bio-Therapeutic. Seattle, WA. 800.976.2544.P

OCTOBER 17Bio-Ultimate Platinum Curriculum

by Bio-Therapeutic. Seattle, WA. 800.976.2544.PTES

OCTOBER 18Bio-Synthesis Curriculum


1-Day Intensive Organic Skin & Body Care Training

by Fleur’s. Salt Lake City, UT. 877.353.8777.

OCTOBER 2Webinar: Melanogenesis and Pigmentation


OCTOBER 4Webinar: Addressing Acne


OCTOBER 7Methode Physiodermie Product Knowledge

by Methode Physiodermie. Denver, CO. 800.263.8888.

Physiotonifying of the Faceby Methode Physiodermie. Denver, CO. 800.263.8888.

OCTOBER 11Webinar: Skin Texture


OCTOBER 14-152 Day “Skin-tensive” Training: Advanced Skin Histology, Analysis and Treatments


calendar|west|central

CALENDAR OF EVENTS


http://www.hydropeptide.com/webinars



by A Natural Difference Skincare.Philadelphia, PA. 888.568.3150.


by A Natural Difference Skincare.Wilmington, DE. 888.568.3150.

Antiqua Prima Level I Introductory Classes

by Laura L. Root. Webinars held every Monday and Friday. 866.358.1694 Ext. 4.

HydroPeptide Product Training Webinar

by HydroPeptide.Webinars held Mondays at 1 p.m. EST.www.hydropeptide.com/webinars.

Knowledge is Power Seriesby A Natural Difference Skincare. Cooper City, FL. 888.568.3150.

Seasonal Peels & Unusual Actives

by A Natural Difference Skincare. Atlanta, GA. 888.568.3150.

Skin Biology & Peel Seminar

by PCA Skin.Joliet, IL.877.PCA.SKIN.

OCTOBER 28-29Concierge Aesthetics

by Advanced Rejuvenating Concepts. San Antonio, TX. 800.689.0499.PTE

East

SEPTEMBER (ONGOING)Advanced Chemical Peels with Skin Assessment

by A Natural Difference Skincare.Atlanta, GA. 888.568.3150.


by A Natural Difference Skincare.Columbus, OH. 888.568.3150.


by A Natural Difference Skincare.Fort Lauderdale, FL. 888.568.3150.


by PCA Skin.Chicago, IL. 877.PCA.SKIN.


by PCA Skin.San Antonio, TX.877.PCA.SKIN.


by PCA Skin.Milwaukee, WI. 877.PCA.SKIN.

Advanced Peeling Techniques for Complex Skin Conditions: A Hands-on Course

by PCA Skin.Oklahoma City, OK. 877.PCA.SKIN.

Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course

by PCA Skin. San Antonio, TX. 877.PCA.SKIN.

SEPTEMBER 26Pumpkin Rejuvenation

by Advanced Rejuvenating Concepts. Webinar at 8:00 p.m. C.S.T.800.689.0499.

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by PCA Skin.Atlanta, GA. 877.PCA.SKIN.


by PCA Skin.Charlotte, NC. 877.PCA.SKIN.


by PCA Skin.West Palm Beach, FL. 877.PCA.SKIN.

SEPTEMBER 16-17A Holistic Approach to the Treatment of Menopausal Women

by Eve Taylor. Southbury, CT. 800.461.3745.


by PCA Skin.Atlanta, GA. 877.PCA.SKIN.


by PCA Skin. Atlanta, GA. 877.PCA.SKIN.

Skin Biology & Peel Seminarby PCA Skin. New York, NY. 877.PCA.SKIN.


by PCA Skin.Fort Lauderdale, FL. 877.PCA.SKIN.


by PCA Skin.Baltimore, MD. 877.PCA.SKIN.


by PCA Skin. Boston, MA. 877.PCA.SKIN.


by PCA Skin.New York, NY. 877.PCA.SKIN.

SEPTEMBER 10-112-Day Product Knowledge & Facial Bar Workshop: The Art of Recommendation

by Repêchage. Secaucus, NJ. 800.248.SKIN.


by A Natural Difference Skincare. Columbus, OH. 888.568.3150.


by A Natural Difference Skincare. Fort Lauderdale, FL. 888.568.3150.


by A Natural Difference Skincare.Philadelphia, PA. 888.568.3150.


by A Natural Difference Skincare.Wilmington, DE. 888.568.3150.


by PCA Skin. Baltimore, MD. 877.PCA.SKIN.


by PCA Skin. Boston, MA. 877.PCA.SKIN.

calendar|east

CALENDAR OF EVENTS



OCTOBER 29-313-Day Anti-Aging Academy: Aging Factors Influencing Visible Aging of the Skin & Professional Solutions



by PCA Skin.Charlotte, NC. 877.PCA.SKIN.


by PCA Skin.West Palm Beach, FL. 877.PCA.SKIN.

SEPTEMBER 18Peel Basics: A Hands-on Course

by Eve Taylor. Southbury, CT. 800.461.3745.


by PCA Skin.Ann Arbor, MI. 877.PCA.SKIN.


by PCA Skin.Providence, RI. 877.PCA.SKIN.

SEPTEMBER 24Four Layer Facial® (Spanish)



by PCA Skin. Ann Arbor, MI. 877.PCA.SKIN.


by PCA Skin. Providence, RI. 877.PCA.SKIN.

SEPTEMBER 26Pumpkin Rejuvenation

by Advanced Rejuvenating Concepts. Webinar at 9:00 p.m. E.S.T. 800.689.0499.


by PCA Skin. Indianapolis, IN.877.PCA.SKIN.

OCTOBER 1-22-Day Hydra-Medic Problem Skin Workshop


OCTOBER 28-29The International Congress of Esthetics and Spaby Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa and Dermascope.Philadelphia, PA. 800.471.0229.

calendar|east

The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, Long Beach 2012September 9-10 • Long Beach, CA1.800.471.0229

The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, Philadelphia 2012October 28-29 • Philadelphia, PA1.800.471.0229

The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, Miami Beach 2013April 7-8 • Miami Beach, FL1.800.471.0229

The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, Dallas 2013May 5-6 • Arlington, TX1.800.471.0229

The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, Long Beach 2013September 29-30 • Long Beach, CA1.800.471.0229

The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, Philadelphia 2013October 27-28 • Philadelphia, PA1.800.471.0229

TRADE SHOWSSponsored by Les Nouvelles

Esthétiques & Spa and Dermascope



*Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa/American Edition has all publishing rights reserved. Reproduction in part or in whole without written permission by the publisher is prohibited. *Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa/American Edition is protected through Trademark registration in the United States and in foreign countries where Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa/American Edition circulates. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for unsolicited manuscripts. Articles appearing in this journal may not previously have been published elsewhere either inside or out-side the United States of America. Exceptions to this rule will be made only by agreement in writing between the author and the editors. The editors reserve the right to edit letters and other submitted materials or omit letters that are considered outside the laws of libel, slander and good taste. Claims and other statements by written and/or advertisement do not neces-sarily reflect the opinions of the Publisher/Editor of Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa. Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa’s Publisher/Editor assume no responsibility for any and all claims. Publisher is not responsible for any mailing delays beyond our control. *Direct all advertising rate inquiries to: Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa/American Edition, Advertising Department, 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, Florida 33134.

advertisers’ indexReader

Service No.PageNumber

90 .............. 5 Star Formulators ..................................................www.5starformulators.com ............................................ 1805 ................ A Natural Difference ................................................www.anaturaldifference.com ......................................... 2326 ................ Advanced Rejuvenating Concepts .........................www.arcskincare.com .................................................... 12096 .............. Allied Health Association .......................................www.alliedhealth.net ..................................................... 20963 .............. Athena Beauty Inc ..................................................www.athenabeauty.com ................................................ 162114 ............ Ayu Sunless .............................................................www.ayusunless.com ..................................................... 3558 ................ Beautiful Image ......................................................www.beautifulimagellc.com .......................................... 183120 ............ Bellaire Industry .....................................................www.bellaireindustry.com .............................................. 18931,32 ......... Bio-Therapeutic .....................................................www.bio-therapeutic.com ............................................. 139106 ............ Biomani ..................................................................www.biomaniskincare.com ............................................ 27677 .............. Bioslimming ...........................................................www.bioslimming.com .................................................. 33557 .............. Bon Vital’ ................................................................www.bonvital.com ......................................................... 26592 .............. Brushes by Karen ...................................................www.brushesbykaren.com ............................................. 10437 .............. Christina .................................................................www.christina-usa.com .................................................. 107103 ............ Circadia by Dr. Pugliese .........................................www.circadia.com ......................................................... 1019 ................ Clarisonic ...............................................................www.clarisonic.com/professional .................................. 35254 .............. Clear FX .................................................................www.clearfxskin.com ..................................................... 33224 .............. Cosmétiques France Laure.....................................www.francelaure.com .................................................... 199132 ............ Darphin ..................................................................www.darphin.com ......................................................... 159114 ............ Dermafile ...............................................................www.dermafile.com....................................................... 29686 .............. DermaMed .............................................................www.DermaMedSolutions.com ..................................... 15293 .............. DermaSwiss ............................................................www.dermaswiss.com ................................................... 245111 ............ DermAware ............................................................www.dermaware.com .................................................... 25653 .............. Dr. Grandel .............................................................www.grandel-usa.com ................................................... 10987 .............. Dr. Jeff ....................................................................www.dr-jeff.com ............................................................ 24823 .............. Edge Systems ..........................................................www.HydraFacial.com ................................................... 2012-3 ..............Éminence Organic Skin Care .................................www.eminenceorganics.com ........................................... 15722 ...............Enspri .....................................................................www.enspriskincare.com ................................................. 31849 .............. Equipro ..................................................................www.equipro-bty.com ..................................................... 242107 ............ Extend Your Lashes ..................................................www.extendyourlashes.com .......................................... 23652 .............. Global Skin Solutions ..............................................www.globalskin-solutions.com ........................................ 333102 ............ Hale Cosmeceuticals ................................................www.halecosmeceuticals.com ....................................... 13351 .............. Hydropeptide .........................................................www.hydropeptide.com .................................................. 27817 .............. Image Skincare .......................................................www.imageskincare.com ................................................. 17819 .............. Innovative Skincare ................................................www.innovativeskincare.com ........................................... 24014-15 ........ International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, The ....... longbeach.skincareshows.com ...........................................26-27 ........ International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, The .......philadelphia.skincareshows.com ........................................131 ............ Jojoba Company ..........................................................www.jojobacompany.com ............................................. 10845 .............. Laboratoires Reynard ...............................................www.labreynard.com ..................................................... 14813 .............. Lady Burd .....................................................................www.ladyburd.com........................................................ 11941 .............. Le Mieux ......................................................................www.lemieuxcosmetics.com ......................................... 29435 .............. Lucrèce Physicians’ Aesthetic Research ...................www.lucrece.com .......................................................... 26375 .............. Michael Marcus ...........................................................www.michaelmarcus.com .............................................. 16976 .............. Mineral Mine ...........................................................www.mineral-mine.com ................................................. 10379 .............. Osmosis ..................................................................www.osmosisskincare.com ............................................ 1117 ................ PCA Skin ......................................................................www.pcaskin.com .......................................................... 11058 .............. PFB Vanish ...................................................................www.pfbvanish.com ...................................................... 22943 .............. Rapidlash .....................................................................www.rapidlash.com ....................................................... 22434 .............. Rejuvi Laboratory ..........................................................www.rejuvilab.com ........................................................ 14939 .............. Repêchage ....................................................................www.repechage.com ..................................................... 19680 .............. Saian .......................................................................www.saian.net ............................................................... 16540 .............. Select Spa Source .........................................................www.selectspa.com ....................................................... 253110 ............ Sesha Skin Therapy .......................................................www.seshaskin.com ....................................................... 27111 .............. Shira ..............................................................................www.shirausa.com ......................................................... 24921 .............. Skin Script................................................................www.skinscriptrx.com .................................................... 28933 .............. Szep Élet/ilike ................................................................www.szepelet.com ........................................................ 27444 .............. Tecniche ........................................................................www.tecniche.com ........................................................ 153123 ............ Teka Fine Line Brushes ..................................................www.tekabrushonline.com ............................................ 19561 .............. Terraderma/Pibbs ...................................................www.pibbs.com ............................................................. 129


No animal testing / cruelty-free

Contact [email protected]

www.jojobacompany.com

1-800 - 2 JOJOBA ( 1-800-256-5622 )

Available in Pesticide-Free andUSDA Certified 100% Organicin gallons as well as in the sizes shown above.

(Litre, 250 ml, 125 ml and 1 oz)

The Jojoba CompanySince 1994

Our HobaCare® 100% Pure Jojoba: The Professional’s Choice Aestheticians, massage therapists, and aroma therapists use our HobaCare® Jojoba on their clients and, most flattering of all, on themselves. They know our jojoba is absolutely pure; it has no fillers, additives or preservatives. And, it’s incredibly versatile. Use our HobaCare Jojoba for:

• removing make-up, facial massage, and deep-cleansing the skin • all massage modalities requiring direct contact with the skin

• revitalizing hair and scalp

• enriching the skin after a shower or bath

• providing soothing relief from psoriasis

• conditioning and softening cuticles

• soothing skin after exposure to the sun

• blending essential oils (our website has many useful recipes)

HobaCare is non-allergenic. It does not stain, and does not clog pores or turn

rancid. Our Jojoba has an indefinite shelf life.

Pure and safe for everyone’s skinno animal testing / cruelty-free

no animal testing / cruelty-free

Pure & Safe for even a newborn’s skin









Documents

LNE & Spa - September 2012