LNE & Spa—the magazine for skin care and spa professionals November 2011 $7.50

Page 4 • www.LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • November 2011

spaWinter Survival Kit 47Enhance Your Spa's Setup 60The Perfect Body's

Worst Enemy 64Spa News 69

skinThe Gold Standard in Skin Care 27 Dispelling the Myths About Chemical Peels 28

Dermaplaning 31Treatments for the

Global Guest 36Skin News 43

Treatments for the Global Guest exfoliating solutions page 36

The Perfect Body's Worst Enemy page 64

green spaServing up Eco-Yummy Hors d'oeuvres 101You Are

What You Wear! 102'Tis the Season 106Green Spa News 109

businessMarketing to Men During the Holidays 71Holiday Cheer 72How To Give Thanks 76Just A Little Bit Special 86The Importance of Optimizing

Your Web Presence 90Branding 94Biz News 97

Holiday Cheer plan for success

page 72

You Are What You Wear!

beware, your workout clothing may be toxic!

page 102

spa&CONTENTSNOVEMBER 2011 VOLUME 26 NUMBER 11

Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa, American Edition, (USPS 003-687) (ISSN 1043-9641) is published monthly, 12 times per year and is sold exclusively by subscription. Publisher’s Name: Jean Jacques Legrand, M.D., 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, FL, 33134. Periodical postage paid at Miami, Florida, with additional mailing offices. Postmaster: Send address changes to: Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa, American Edition, 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, Florida 33134, United States Subscription: Annual Rate $45.00 Canada Subscription: $55.00 (American) 1st Class Postage Overseas Subscription: Two years for $140.00 (U.S.) Air Mail Postage

Covercourtesy ofEric Zemmour

extrasFrom the Editor 6Spa of the Month: Elle Spa at

Eden Roc, Miami Beach, FL 10Recap: The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa,

Long Beach, CA 21Holiday Gift Guide 48LNE & Spa Awards 80Calendar of Events 126Advertisers’ Index 130image

Marketing Cosmetics During the Holidays 111

Glamorous and Sexy 112Inspire Seasonal Cheer 115Holiday Haute Couture 120Image News 123

Inspire Seasonal Cheerpage 115

November 2011 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 31

ESTHETICIANS DO NOT PERFORMthesameservicesasmedicaldoctors.Asestheticians,wecleanseandmassagethe

skin,exfoliatesuperficiallayersfromthefaceandwaxunwantedhairaway.Estheticiansandestheticnursescanreceiveadvancedtraininginspecificserviceswithinaphysician’spractice,depend-ingonthestateregulationofestheticlicensing.

Asskincareservicesevolvetomeettheneedsanddemandsoftheclientele,main-tainingasafeenvironmentwithinyourscopeofpracticemayhavedevelopedsome“gray”areas.Oneofthese“gray”areasconcernsder-maplaning,aprocessthatcanbesoadvanceditcanbereferencedasamedicalprocedure,maybeperformedasasuperficialexfoliationtreatment,orcanbesomethingassimpleasshaving.Myultimateperspectiveontheissueofdermaplaningis:whatissafefortheclientandwithinmyscopeofpractice?Yet,isseemsasthoughestheticiansdonothaveaunifiedvoiceindefiningthisprocedureandthetoolswehavetoperformit.Theprocessofderma-planingneedstobedefinedforboththemedi-calandestheticscopeofpracticetoensurethesafetyofthosewhoreceivethistreatment.

DefinitionWithinthemedicalcommunity(particularlyplasticsurgeons),dermaplaningisviewedasanoninvasivesurgicalprocedurethatcanes-sentiallystripawaydeadskintoimprovetheappearanceoffinelines,wrinklesandacnescarring.Thetechniquemaybeusedsynony-mouslywithdermabrasion(nottobemistakenformicrodermabrasion)onmanymedicalweb-sitesandpatents—hencethename“derma,”relatingtothedermis,and“planing”fromthewordplanethatreferstoatoolusedtosmoothasurface.Themostcommonlyusedtoolisatypeofscalpel,asurgeon’stoolthatcancauseirreversibledamageifusedimproperly.

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dermaplaningBY TINA ZILLMANN

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Estheticians should not use scalpels unless they are trained and under a physician’s supervision, and abiding by state board regulations.

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Estheticiansshouldnotusescalpelsunlesstheyaretrainedandunderaphysician’ssupervision,andabidingbystateboardregulations.Thisisultimatelyforthesafetyoftheclient.

Fromanestheticperspective,dermaplan-inghasbeenperformedwithascalpeloradisposablesafetyrazor.Somepracticesmayadvertisedermaplaningasanexfoliationtreat-ment,whileothersusetheprocedureforhairremoval.Anestheticskincarepracticeshoulduseadisposablesafetyrazororaneyebrowrazor.Thistoolissoldinpublicdrugstores;itequipsaspecialbladetohelppreventskinlacerations,andishousedinaplasticcasingsoitmayfunctionasasingle-useitem.Aswithanyshavingprocess,verysuperficialdeadskincellsmaybeexfoliatedwhilethetechniqueisbeingperformed;however,itisnotoutsideanesthetician’sscopeofpracticetoexfoliatevery

superficiallayersofdeadskin.Forexample,asaskincarepractitionerandlicensedes-thetician,Ihaveshavedthevellushairoffasopposedtowaxing,aprocessmanyestheti-ciansrefertoasdermaplaning.Aboutayearago,theStateofTexasCosmetologyBoardannouncedthatonlybarbersarelicensedtoshavetheface,limitingthelegalpracticeofdermaplaningtobarbers.Recently,theFloridaCosmetologyBoardruledthatitdoesnotal-lowdermaplaningunlessitisperformedbyamedicalprofessional.However,Arizonaallowsestheticianstodermaplane,aprocessreferredtoas“epidermalleveling”or“microplaning.”

NecessityDermaplaningisnecessaryinanestheticprac-ticebecauseofclientdemandsandneeds.Hormonalchangesinwomenaffecttheskinandbody,andestheticdermaplaningessen-tiallyshavesvellushairfromtheface.Asidefromalossofelasticity,skinthinninganddry-ness,vellushaironthefacebecomesavisibleproblemonmiddle-agedwomen.Theirmake-updoesnotsetwell,andtheyfeel“wooly”andaged.Facialwaxingisstillacommonpracticefortheremovalofthishair,buttheprocedureispronetomanyproblems.Thehairissofinethatgentlefacialwaxesmaynotpickitallup,andamaturewoman’sskinmaybemoresusceptibletoburningortearing.Combinethesevariableswithexfoliationtreatments,cosmeceuticalskincareproductuseathome,and/oruseofcertainprescriptiondrugs—andtheriskofdamagingtheskinandcausingdiscomfortisevengreater.Damagestotheclient’sskinortotheiroverallappearanceafterahairremovalservicepromptsomeofthemostprevalentlawsuitsweexperi-enceasskincareproviderstoday.

Anotheroptionthatmaynotbeacces-sibletomostestheticiansislaserorintensepulsedlight(IPL)hairremovalmethods.Theselight-basedtreatmentsmaynotcapturethepigmentofthehairandremovethehairef-fectivelywithoutconsequencestotheskin.Incomparingthethreemainmethodsofhairremovalforthisclienttype,dermaplaningisobviouslythebettersuited.Sinceitstransitionandessentialtransformationintotheestheticindustry,ithasbecomeawidelysought-afterprocedureforclientelewhohaveexperiencedthedifferenthairremovalmethods.

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Many estheticians and dermatologists

suggest women shave their face to help keep the skin rejuvenated, but in

the treatment room it is still referred to

as dermaplaning.

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changeinthefuture.Mostpublicinformationaboutfemaleshavingfocusesontheexfoliationaspects,andhowitgivestheskinarefinedap-pearanceandhealthyglow;thehairremovalisjustanotherperkthatcomeswiththeprocess.Inthemeantime,dermaplaningwithadispos-able,single-usesafetyrazororeyebrowrazorinthetreatmentroomisthesaferalternativetofacialwaxingorlight-basedhairremoval.

The fine printUltimately,theformalprocessofdermaplan-ingisnotapplicabletoestheticpractices,eventhoughithasevolvedfromitsinceptiondecadesago.TheSan Diego Entertainer Magazinepub-lishedanarticlecalled,“ShouldWomenShaveforSmootherSkin?”ItincludedthisquotefromanursewhoworkedforaSanDiegoplasticsurgeon:“Iseearemarkableimprovementinmyclient’sskinafterIperformdermaplaning,whichisalmostexactlywhatshavingdoes.”

Theonlydifferencemaybethatanurseun-deraphysician’scarewoulduseascalpel,notadisposablesafetyrazor,andtheywouldplanethefaceasanexfoliatingprocedure,notjustforhairremoval.Manyestheticsprofessionalsfeelthatstatelegislationshouldnotoutlawderma-planingbyestheticians;butratherthatitshouldoutlinetheboundariessothatclientscanreceiveasafehairremovaltreatmentfromalicensedskincareprofessional.Yes,shavingexfoliatestheskin,butitisnotoutsideanesthetician’sscopeofpracticetoexfoliatesomesuperficiallayersofskin.Asestheticians,weshouldofferthisoptioninadditiontofacialwaxing,whichmaycausedamagetosomeclients'withfragileorsensitiveskin.Replacingwaxingwithshavinginthesecaseshelpsusavoidpotentiallawsuitsandlossofbusiness.n

Tina Zillmann is vice pres-ident and director of Skin Rejuvenation Clinique, Inc. and Ad vanced Rejuvenating Con cepts. She is a practicing estheti-cian and a nationally rec-ognized public speaker and published writer in

the skin care industry. Zillmann has received the Female Entrepreneur of the Year award from the National Association of Women Business Owners, and served as the president of the Aesthetic International Association from 2009-2010.

So, is it shaving?Havingpresentedtheoptions,whynotjustcallitshaving?Asaskincareprovider,youcanpollyourclients:wouldtheyrathergotothebarbertohavetheirvellushairremoved?Womenshavetheirlegsandunderarms.Menshavetheirface.Asmentionedpreviously,inTexasonlylicensedbarbersareallowedtoshavetheface.Theotherwaytoasktheques-tioncouldbe:wouldyoubemorelikelytoseeyourskincareprovidertocontouranddefineyourfacialfeatureswithadermaplaningpro-cedureorashave?

Manyestheticiansanddermatologistsac-tuallysuggestwomenshavetheirfacetohelpkeeptheskinrejuvenated,butinthetreatmentroomitisstillreferredtoasdermaplaning.Assimpleastheprocessmayseem,thereisnoth-inginherentlyfeminineaboutawomanshavingherface,althoughrumorhasitthatElizabethTaylorandMarilynMonroedidsotoexfoliatetheirskinandmakeitradiant.ArecentonlinesurveyfromThe Huffington Postasks,“Wouldyoushaveyourface?(Ladiesonly!);”theper-centagesatthetimethisarticlewaswrittenwere46.4percent“yes”and53.6percent“no”(asanonlinepost,thesenumbersmayhavesincechanged).Determiningwhetherornotawomanshavingherfaceissociallyaccept-ablemaynothaveasolidanswertoday.Somewomenonlyshavewhentheirsignificantotherisnotlooking,someshavenexttotheirsignifi-cantother,andsomewillnotevenentertainthethought—eventhoughtheymayhavehaddermaplaningperformedbytheirskincareprovider.Thestatusquohasnotsettledonwhetherornotitisacceptable,butthatmay

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Many esthetics professionals feel

that state legislation should not outlaw

dermaplaning by estheticians;

but rather that it should outline the boundaries so that clients can receive a safe hair removal

treatment from a licensed skin care

professional.