fen71c2 - MIL-STD-188everyspec.com/MIL-SPECS/MIL-SPECS-MIL-DTL/download.php?... · list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements documents cited

-.

e I INCH-POUND I

MIL-DTL-82156D(MC)21 October 1997SUPERSEDINGMIL-c-82156C (MC)13 June 1995

DETAIL SPECIFICATION

COAT, MAN’S - SCARLET, DRUMAND BUGLE CORPS, MUSICIANS

This specification is approved for use by U.S. Marine Corps,Department of the Navy, and is available for use by allDepartments and Agencies of the Department of Defense.

1. SCOPE

1, 1.1. scoDe. This specification covers requirements formusician’s scarlet wool drum and bugle corps coats.

1.2. Classification. The coats will be one type in the followingsizes as specified (see 6.2):

Beneficial comments (recommendations, additions, deletions)and any pertinent data which may be of use in improving thisdocument should be addressed to the Commander (PSE-D),Marine Corps Systems Command, Quantico, VA 22134-5010 byusing the Standardization Document Improvement Proposal (DDForm 1426) appearing at the end of this document or byletr-r.

AMSC N/A FSC 8405

e~STRIBUTION STATEMENT A. Approved for public release;distribution is unlimited.

Downloaded from http://www.everyspec.com

(Short,

34 35 36

1.3. Individual orders.

MIL-DTL-82156D (MC)

Schedule of sizes

Reqular, Lonq, Extra Lonq)-

37 38 39 40 41 42 44 46

When the coat is custom tailored to anindividual order, this specification will govern except that thedetail requirements of Section 3, Table I, may be modified to theextent necessary for good custom tailoring practices.

2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS

2.1. General. The documents listed in this section are specifiedin,sections 3 and 4 of this specification. This section does notinclude documents cited in other sections of this specificationor recommended for additional information or as examples. Whileevery effort has been made to ensure the completeness of thislist, document users are cautioned that they must meet allspecified requirements documents cited in sections 3 and 4 ofthis specification, whether or not they are listed.

2.2. Government documents.

2.2.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The followingspecifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of thisdocument to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwisespecified, the issues of these documents are those listed in theissue of the Department of Defense Index of Specifications andStandards (DoDISS) and supplement thereto, cited in thesolicitation (see 6.2) .

SPECIFICATIONS

FEDERALA-A-50196A-A-50198A-A-50199

A-A-52071

A-A-52094A-A-52097A-A-52106

Thread, SilkThread, Gimp, Cotton, ButtonholeThread, Polyester Core, Cotton or PolyesterCoveredTape, Textile, Cotton, General Purpose(Unbleached, Bleachedr or Dyed)Thread, CottonCloth, Wigan, Cotton“Cloth, Twill or Plain Weave, Polyester and ●poIyester Blend

2


MIL-DTL-82156D(MC)

49 DDD-L-20 - Label: For Clothing, Equipage, and Tentage

(General Use)

DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSEMIL-c-368MIL-DTL-3461MIL-P-15064141L-E-20652

MIL-c-21115MIL-DTL-82114

STANDARDS

FEDERALFED-STD-191 -FED-STD-751 -

Cloth, Satin, Rayon and Cloth, Twill, RayonButton, Insignia, Metal, Uniform and CaPPads, Shoulder and Sleeve-HeadEyelets, Metallic, Eyelet Washers (GeneralSpecification For)Cloth, Tropical: Wool, Polyester/WoolCoat Front - For Coats, Musicians

Textile Test MethodsStitches, Seams, and Stitchings

(Unless otherwise indicated, copiesspecifications, standards, handbooks areStandardization Document Order Desk, 700

of the aboveavailable from theRobbins Avenue, Building

@

40, Philadelphia, PA 19111-5094.)

2.3. Non-Government publications. The following document(s) form

a Part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unlessotherwise specified, the issues of the documents which are DoDadopted are those listed in the issue of the DoDISS cited in thesolicitation. Unless otherwise specified, the issues ofdocuments not listed in the DoDISS are the issues of thedocuments cited in the solicitation (see 6.2).

ASTM E1282 -

(Application for

Standard Guide for Specifying the ChemicalCompositions and Selecting SamplingPractices and Quantitative Analysis Methodsfor Metals and Alloys

copies should be addressed to AmericanSociety for Testing and Materials, 1916 Race Street,Philadelphia, PA 19103.)

ANSI/ASQC Z1.4 - Sampling Procedures and Tables forInspection by Attributes

3


MIL-DTL-82156D(MC)

(Application for copies should be addressed to The AmericanNational Standards Institute, 11 West 42nd Street, New York, NY ●10036.)

Department of Defense (DoD) Standard Color Card ofOfficial Standardized Shades for Sewing Threads 1968

(Application for copies should be addressed to the ColorAssociation of the United States, Inc., 409 W. 44th Street, NewYork, NY 10016-0927. )

2.4. Order of precedence. In the event of a conflict between thetext of this document and the references cited herein, the textof this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document,however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless aspecific exemption has been obtained.

3. REQUIREMENTS

3.1. Standard sample. Standard samples are furnished solely forguidance and information to the contractor (see 6.3). Variationfrom this specification may appear in the sample, in which casethe specification shall govern. ●3.2. First article. When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall besubjected to first ,article inspection in accordance with 4.3.

3.3. Materials.

3.3.1 Basic material. The basic material shall be cloth, wool,

tropical, scarlet, ”shade 2502 (see”6.3), 10.5 ounces, conformingto type I, class 1 of MIL-C-21115.”

3.3.2 Lining. The material for lining the coat and collar andfor making the underarm shields, collar eyelet covers, coathanger, straps to secure the lining to the bottom edge of thecoat, and the front eyelet cover shall be cloth, satin rayontwill, scarlet, shade 2506 (see 6.3), conforming to class 1 ofMIL-C-368.

3.3.3 Cloth, twill or plain weave. The stays for the armholeand shoulder seams; the reinforcementeyelets; and the binding for the neckinterlining and the lower edge of thecut from cloth, twill or plain weave,

4

pieces for the collaredge of the coat frontcollar interlining shall bepolyester or polyester ●


MIL-DTL-82156D(MC)

e blend conforming to A-A-52106, except the requirement fornon-fibrous material and seam efficiency shall not apply. The

color of the cloth shall be natural, for the armhole and shoulderseam stays, the collar eyelet reinforcement pieces, and thebinding for the neck edge of the coat front interlining; andblack for the binding for the lower edge of the collarinterlining.

3.3.4 Collar interlining. The material for interlining thecollar shall be cloth, cotton buckram, double texture, laminatedstarch finish, natural color, conforming to type IV of A-A-501B6.The weight of the laminated cloth shall be 21 to 23 ounces persquare yard.

3.3.5 Reinforcement discs. The reinforcement discs for thebuttons secured to the back side seam, with ring toggles, shallbe punched from cloth, cotton, buckram specified in 3.3.4. Thereinforcement discs shall be 7/8 inch in diameter with a 1/8 inchdiameter hole at the center.

3.3.6 Paddina for collar. The material for padding the collar

a

shall be suitable cotton felt, white, weight 4.25 to 4.75 ouncesper square yard.

3.3.7 Coat fronts. The coat fronts shall conform to class 1 ofMIL-OTL-82114 .

3.3.8 Shoulder pads. The shoulder pad shall conform to therequirements of type I, class 2 of MIL-P-15064.

3.3.9 Sleeve-head pads. The sleeve-head pads shall conform totype IV of MIL-P-15064.

3.3.10 Stav tape. The stay tape for armholes shall be cotton,unbleached 1/4 inch wide, conforming to type II, class 1 ofA-A-52071, except the requirements for non-fibrous material shallnot apply.

3.3.11 Piping. The material for piping shall be cloth,polyester/wool blend, black, shade 2607 (see 6.3), conforming totype III of MIL-C-21115, cut 5/8 to 3/4 inch wide for the pipingfor shoulder straps, lower edge of collar, and ornamental sleevepatches; and 1 inch wide for piping the front and bottom edges of

ethe coat.

5


3.3.11.l.Vinvl piping.of the collar shall beserrated edges.

MIL-DTL-82156D (MC)

The white vinyl piping for the upper edgetubular, with 7/16 inch wide welt and ●

3.3.12 Bias bindinq. The binding for the underarm shields shallbe bias cut out of the material specified in 3.3.2., The bindingshall be 5/8 to 7/8 inch wide and have sized edges.

3.3.13 m. The materialthe sleeves shall be cloth,to type I of A-A-52097.

3.3.14 Thread.

3.3.14.l.Silk thread.as follows, except thenot apply.

for reinforcing the bottom edge ofcotton wigan, 2.5 ounces, conforming

The silk thread shall conform to A–A-50196requirements for extractable matter shall

Use Type Class Ticket No. Ply

Bartacks and all outside I Aseaming and stitching.

Machine felling. oMaking buttonholes in coat. I B and”F 3Hand felling and hand III 3 c 2selling.

3.3.14.2.Cotton thread. The cotton thread shall conform toA-A-52094 as follows:

Use Type Ticket No. Ply

All inside seaming and stitching. III A 3Serging and overedge stitching. I 70 2Machine tacking armholes. I 40 3

The thread for basting shall be good commercial grade cotton. Asan alternate to the cotton thread, a polyester corer cotton orpolyester covered thread conforming to A-A-50199, ticket No. 70,2-ply or ticket No. 50, 2-ply may be used.

3.3.14.3.Color and colorfastness. All thread shall be dyedscarlet, shade W, cable No. 66040, except the cotton thread forbasting and machine tacking armholes may be white, and the cottonthread for,overedge stitch the piping at the bottom edge of the ●

6


MIL-DTL-82156D(MC)

@coats shall be black. The colored threads shall show thefollowing colorfastness when tested as specified in the

applicable thread specification:

Thread Color Wet (drv) Cleaninq Liqht

Cotton Scarlet Good --

Silk Scarlet Fair FairSilk Black Good Good

NOTE : See DoD Standard Color Card of Standardized Shades forSewing Threads 1968.

3.3.15 W. The buttonhole gimp shall be cotton, ticket No. 8,soft or glazed finish, conforming to type I or II of A-A-50198.The color of the gimp shall be scarlet, shade W, cable No. 66040,and shall show good fastness to wet (dry) cleaning.

3.3.16 Buttons.

3.3.16.1.1nsiqnia buttons. The insignia buttons shall be metal,

@

gold plated, 27-line for shoulders, belt loops and-ornamentalsleeve patches and 40-line for fronts, conforming to type I,style 3, class A, subclass 1 of MIL-DTL-3461.

3.3.16.2.Rina toqqles. Ring toggles for securing the 27-lineinsignia buttons to the belt loops, ornamental sleeve patches andshoulder straps shall conform to MIL-DTL-3461.

3.3.17 Collar closure hook and eye. The hook and eye for closingthe collar shall be brass, black, japanned finish or blackchemical finish, followed by a clear lacquer coating and conformto the requirements of Figure 6.

3.3.17.l.Evelets. The eyelets for the collar shall be brass,rolled flange type, with the barrel scored with six to eightscores. The eyelets shall conform to MIL-E-20652, sheet 1A-BE108and be enameled a black shade.

3.3.18 Labels Each coat shall have a combinationidentif=~/instruction label and size label conforming toDDD-L-20. The coats are intended to be wet (dry) cleaned and the

alabel shall show fastness to wet (dry) cleaning.

7


MIL-DTL-82156D(MC)

3.3.18.1.Combination identification/instruction label. Thecombination identification/instruction label shall conform totype VI, classes 1 and 3 (combined) of DDD-L-20, except allprinting and the space between lines of printing shall be minimum10 point (approximately 1/8 inch). The content and format shallbe as follows:

●

Nomenclature:Contract number:Name of contractor:Wool Products Act information:DRY CLEAN ONLY

3.3.18.2.Size label. The size label shall be type VI, class 2 ofDDD-L-20. The la”belshall consist of the numerical sizedesignation specified in 1.2 followed by the letter S (short), R(regular), L (long), or XL (extra long) as shown by the followingexample:

40R

3.4. Desiqn. The coat shall be the U.S. Marine Corps designshown on Figures 1 through 4. The coat shall be seven button,single breasted, form-fitting, fully lined having a one-piece e

front; waist and chest darts; a four-piece back without a centervent; belt loops to button; ornamented at sleeve ends; shoulderstraps to button; and a stand up collar with hook and eye forfront closure and a metal eyelet at each end for removable branchof service insignia. The top and bottom edges of the collar; thefront and bottom edges of the coat; the top, bottom, andscalloped back edges of the ornamental sleeve patches; and theedges of the shoulder straps shall be piped with the materialspecified in 3.3.11.

3.5. Patterns. Standard patterns will be furnished to thecontractor by the Government. The standard patterns shall not bealtered in any way and shall be used only as a guide for cuttingthe contractor’s working patterns. The contractor’s workingpatterns shall be identical to the standard pattern. Thestandard patterns shall provide 5/8 inch allowance for centerback,’ 3/4 inch allowance for side seams, and 3/8 inch allowancefor all other seams except as otherwise specified in Table I.Standard patterns show size and are marked and notched for propercutting, placement and assembly of component parts.

. ●8


MIL-DTL-82156D(MC)

e 3.5.1 List of pattern Darts. Coats shall bematerials specified herein in accordance withindicated below:

cutthe

from thepattern parts

ITEM I PATTERN NOMENCLATURE INO. OF CUT PARTS

Material basic: Cloth, wool, tropical

1 Front 22 Front facing, right 13 Front facing, left 14 Side back 25 Center back 26 Top sleeve 27 Under sleeve 28 Collar, outer ply 29 Shoulder straps, top ply 210 Shoulder straps, under ply 211 Ornamental sleeve patch, top ply 212 Ornamental sleeve patch, under ply 213 Belt loops 214 Underarm shields 2

Material: Cloth, rayon lining

15 Front 216 Side back 217 Center back 218 Top sleeve 219 Under sleeve 220 Collar lining 121 Collar eyelet cover 222 Underarm shield 423 Front eyelet cover 1

Material: Cloth, cotton buckram

24 Collar interlining 1

Marker

25 Sleeve turnup and sleeveornamentation marker


MIL-DTL-82156D(MC)

3.6. Construction.

3.6.1 Manufacturing requirements. The coat shall bemanufactured in accordance with the operations and the stitch,seam, and stitching types specified in Table I.

3.6.1.1. Operations. The contractor is not required to followthe exact sequence of the operations as listed in Table I, butall operations specified shall be used to manufacture the coats.

3.6.1.2. Stitches, seams and stitchinq. The stitch, seam andstitching types specified in Table I shall conform toFED-STD-751. The number of stitches per inch as specified inTable I indicates the minimum and maximum number permitted. Al1overedge stitching shall be done on serging machine with a knifeattachment properly set to trim the raveled edge without cuttingthe material.

3.6.1.2.1 Tackinq and backstitching. Ends all seams andstitching (stitch type 301), except ends of a continuous line ofstitching, when not caught in other seams or stitches, shall bebackstitched not less than 1/4 inch. The ends of a continuousline of stitching shall be overlapped not less than 1/2 inch. ●Thread breaks shall be secured back of the break not less than1/2 inch.

3.6.1.3. Shade markings. The component parts of the coat cutfrom one piece of wool and lining materials, including pairs ofsleeve linings and underarm shields when cut from ends, shall beshade marked to ensure a uniform shade and size throughout thegarment. Any method of shade marking may be used except:

a. Corrosive metal fastening devices.b. Sew-on shade tickets.c. Adhesive type tickets where adhesive causes

discoloration or whose adhesive mass adheres to the material uponremoval of the tickets.

10


MIL-DTL-82156D(MC)

o TABLE I. Manufact

No OPERATION

1

e

Cuttinq.

a. Cutcoatsin strict accordancewith thepatterns furnished by theGovernment.

b. Cut all materialsin thedirection of thewarpas indicated bythe directional lines on thepatterns.

c. Cut all scarlet wool parts of thecoat from one piece of basicmaterial, except the following partsmay be cut from ends: under ply ofshoulder strapsandunder ply oforneimental sleeve patch. Partscutfrom ends shall harmonize with theshade of the coat.

d. Cut the body and collar linings,the front eyelet covers, and the topply of the underarm shields from onepiece of rayon lining material.Allother rayon lining parts may be cutfrom ends. Whenpairsof sleeveliningsarecut fromends, the shadeof the sleeve linings shall match.Cut the strips for coat hanger andlining securingstraps1-1/8incheswide.

e. Cut twill or plain weave staysfor the armhole and shoulder seams onthe bias 3/8 inch wide and 4 i 1/4inches long. Cut the twill or plainweave for binding the neck edge ofthe coat front interlining on thebias, 3/4 inch wide and approximately5 inches long. Cut the twill orplain weave reinforcement pieces ofcollar eyelets not less than 2 incheslong by 1-3/4 inches wide.

f. Cut the cotton buckram forinterlining the collar on thestraight in accordance with thepattern furnished.

g. Cut the cotton felt, for padding

the Collar, 1-1/4 inches wide and ofsufficient length to fold over theends of the interlining for each sizecollar.

inq :

STCHTYPE

quirem(

ssAn/STCHTYPE

t-s.

rCH/IbBOB/LPR

11


MIL-DTL-82156D (MC)

TABLE I. Manufacturing requirements - Continued.

No OPERATION

1

2

3

Cuttinq. (cent’d)

h. Cut the piping material (see3.3.11) for piping the frent andbottom edges of coats, the edges ofthe shoulder straps, lower edge ofcollar, and ornamental sleeve patch,on the straight. The piping shallbut cut 5/8 to 3/4 inch wide forshoulder straps, and ornamentalsleeve patches, and 1 inch wide forfront and bottom edges of coat. cutthe binding material specified in3.3.12 for the top and bottom edgesof the collar interlining 1-1/8inches wide on the straight.

i. Cut the wigan for reinforcing thebottom of the sleeves on the bias inaccordance with the patteKn,

j. Punch the reinforcement discs forbuttons secured to the side seam fromcloth, cotton buckram. Thereinforcement discs shall be 7/8 inchin diameter with 1/8 inch diameterhole at the center.

Replacement of damaqed parts.

a. At the time of cutting replaceany part, of coat containing holes;seriously weakening defects, such assmashes, multiple floats, loose orweakening slubs, etc. expected todevelop into holes: shade bars anddye streaks; or unsightly slubs etc. ,affecting appearance.

b. Replace any part damaged duringthe manufacturing process by needlechews which may be expected todevelop into holes, scissor or knifecuts, tears, mends or burns, in thematerial, affecting appearance.

Shade marking.

a. Mark or ticket (see 3.6.1.3) allcomponent parts cut from one piece ofbasic and lining materials, and pairsof sleeve joinings when cut fromends, to ensure uniform shade andsize through the coat.

STCHTYPE

ssAN/STCHTYPE rCH/I? NDL

SOB/LPR

12


MIL-DTL-82156D(MC)

q requirements - Continued.

‘~No I OPESATION

3

4

495

6

10

shade markinq. (cent‘d)

b. The use of tickets with any metalfastening devices is prohibited onthe rayon lining.

~n ghanaer nd inin ri~.

Finished appearance. The coat hangerand lining securing straps shallfinish 1/4 to 3/0 inch wide.

a. Fold the 1-1/8 inch wide strip oflining material in half lengthwise,turn the edges to the inside and seam1/16 inch from the turned edges.

b. cut the coac hanger 3-3/4 ? 1/4inches long.

c. Cut the lining securing scraps4-lf2 ~ 1/4 inches long.

Make collar eyelet covers.

Finished appearance. The collareyelet covers shall finish 1-3/4 ~1/8 inches wide.

a. Tttrnunder the side edges of thecollar eyelet cover and stitch 1/16to 1/8 inch from foIded edges,catching the turned under portions inthe stitching.

b. Fold each cover in half acrossthe width and seam 1/16 to 1/8 inchfrom the folded side edges.

Make unclerarm shiqJ@.

Finished appearance. The shieldsshall be made from one ply of basicmaterial and shaII finish smooth andflat without puckers, pleats,gathers, or other distortions.

a. Bind the rounded edge of shieldwith bias binding, turning under theoutside raw edge of the binding only,and catching the turned under portionin the stitching 1/16 inch from thefolded edge.

STCHTYPE

301

301

301

301

SSAWsTCHTYPE

E*1

EFa-1(each

lde edge

Ssa-1

Ssa-1

rCH/11

12-16

12-16

12-16

12-16

NDL

A

A

A

A

SOBILPR

A

A

A

A

13


—

N(—7

8

MIL-DTL-82156D(MC),


OPERATION

Make frent evelet cover.

a. Fold front eyelet cover in halflengthwise, turn in the raw top andbottom edges and seam 1/16 to 1/8inch from the raw edge and folded topand bottom edges.

Make belt loops.

Finished appearance. The belt loopsshall be uniform in appearance andshall finish smooth and flat withoutpuckers, pleats, gathers, or otherdistortions. The buttcmholes shallbe clean cut, well made and wellworked over gimp to fit a 27-lineinsignia button. The gimp and threadshall be pulled through to theunderside of the loops. The purlingof the buttonholes shall be O“ theoutside.

a. Fold the belt loops in halflengthwise, face to face, forming twoplies.

b. Seam the two plies together alongthe side and pointed’ edges, 3/16 inchfrom the raw edges.

c. Trim the corners and point forproper turning. Turn loops, workingout completely the po”int and seamededges. .

d. Edge stitch the 100pa u-tiformly1/16 to 1/8 inch from folded andseamed edges.

e. Make a horizontal, eyelet end,square-bar type buttonhole, cut 314inch long, in each loop midwaybetween the back and front edges,with the inside edge of the eyeletend of the buttonhole finishing 5/8inch from pointed end of the loop.

STCHTYPE

301

301

301

button-holes

SEAwSTCHTYPE

SSa-1raw edgeSsc-1

(top andbottomedges )

SSe-2

(a)

SSe-2

(b)(seamededges )Osf-1

(foldededges )

;TCH/11

12-16

12-16

12-16

50 perutt On-hole(notincl.

,artack)

NOL

A

Asilk)

Asilk)

Bsilk)

BOBILPR

A

A(silk)

A(silk)

F[silk)

.

14


MIL-DTL-82156D(MC)

@TABLE I. Manufacturing requirements - Continued.

I

NO OPERATION

8 tlakebelt 100D.T. (cent‘d)

f. Securely bartack the end of thebuttonholes, catching the ends of thegimp and thread in the bartack. Trimthe ends of the gimp and thread.

9 pake sboulder 3traDa.

Finished appearance. The shoulderstraps shall be uniform in appearanceand shall finish smoth and flat,without twists, gathers, puckers,pleats, or other distortions. Thepiping shall be evenly worked out andshall extend uniformly 1/8 inchbeyond the seamed edges of theshoulder straps. The buttonholesshall be clean cut, well made andwell worked over the gimp to fit a27-line insignia button. The gimpand thread shall be pulled through cothe underside of the scraps. The

lapurling of the buttonhole> shall beon the outside.

—.a. The shoulder straps shall be madeof two plies of basic material, pipedwith a S/a to 3/4 inch wide strip ofpiping material specified in 3.3.11.

b. Turn under one edge of the piping5/16 inch and seam the turned underportion to the body of the piping 1/8inch from the turned raw edge.

c. Position the right side of thecop ply of the shoulder strap on thehemmed piping with the raw edges ofshoulder strap in line with thepiping stitching line.

d. Join shoulder strap to pipingalong che back, front and collar end,1/8 inch from the inner edge ofpiping.

e. Trim and notch the piping inaccordance with good manufacturingpractices in order to prevent pullingand to eliminate gathers and bulgesaround the collar end.

STCHTYPE

artack

301

301

SEAWSTCHTYPE

EFa-1

SSe-2la)

rcH/Ifi

1 persrtac)

10-14

10-14

NDL

Asilk)

A

Asilk)

SOB/LPR

A[silk)

A

A

(Silk)

15


MIL-DTL-82156D(MC)


NO I OPESATION

9 Make shoulder straps. (cent‘d),.

f. Position the top ply on the underply face to face, with the outer edgeof piping and raw edge of the underply even and back notches matching.

9. Stitch along the back, front, andcollar end through all plies 3/16inch from the inner raw edge of thepiping. Trim any excess material ifnecessary.

h. Turn the straps, completelyworking out the piped edges.

i. TopStitch the straps uniformly,3/16 inch from the folded edge of thepiping.

I

]. Press the shoulder straps smoothand flat with a heated pressing ironor pressing machine.

k. Make a horizcmtal, eyelet end,square-bar type buttonhole cut 3/4inch long, in each strap, midwaybetween the back and front edges, andwith the inside edge of the eyeletend of the buttonhole finishing 5/8inch from outer edge of piping at thecollar end of strap.

1. Securely bartack the end of thebuttonhole, catching the ends of thegimp and thread in the bartack. Trimthe ends of the gimp and thread.

STCHTYPE

301

301

301

uttOn-hole

artack

ssAM/STCHTYPE

SSk-1(a)

(withoutcord )

SSk-1

(a)(withoutcord)

SSk-1(b)

{withoutord andtOp-

titched)

;TCH/II

10-14

10-14

10-14

60 per,uttOn-hole

21 per,artac}

NDL

Asilk)

Asilk)

A

Bsilk)

Asilk)

A

(Silk)

A

(silk]

A

F(silk)

A(Silk)

●BOB/LPR

16


MIL-DTL-82156D(MC)

o TABLE I. Manufacturing requirements - Continued.

I

NO OPESATION

10

10

9

Make ornamental sleeve oatches.

Finished appearance. The ornament a1sleeve patch shall be uniform in

appearance and shall finish smooth‘and flat, without twists,gathers,puckers,or otherdistortions.Thepipingshall be evenly worked out ancshall extend unifomnly l/B inchbeyond the seamed edges of the sleevepatch. The eyelet shall be wellworked with the purling on theoutside of the sleeve patch and shallfinish with a l/E to 3/16 inchdiameter opening.

Make ornamental sleeve va~hea.(cent‘d)

a. The ornamental sleeve patch shallbe made of two plies of basicmaterial, piped with a 5/8 to 3/4inch wide strip of piping materialspecified in 3.3.11.

b. Turn under one edge of the pipin~5/16 inch. Seam the turned underportion co the body of the piping 1/8inch from the folded edge.

c. Position the right side of thetop Ply of sleeve patch on the hemmedpiping, with the raw edges of thesleeve patch in line with the pipingstitching line.

d. Join sleeve patch to the pipingalong the top, bottom and scallopededge 1/8 inch from the inner edge ofthe piping.

e. Trim and notch the outer edge ofpiping along the scalloped edge inorder to prevent pulling and bulgeson the edges.

f. Position the top ply of sleevepatch on the under ply, face to face,with the outer edge of piping and ra~

edge of the under ply even.

STCHTYPE

301

301

SSAMlSTCHTYPE

EFa-1

SS0-2(a)

TCH/IN

12-16

12-16

NDL

A

Asilk)

S08/LPR

A

Asilk)

17


—

NO—

MIL-DTL-82156D (MC)


OPEAATION

9. Stitch along the top, bottom andscalloped edge, through all plies,3/16 inch from the inner raw edge ofthe piping. Trim any excess materialif necessary.

h. Turn the sleeve patches, workingthe piping out completely and formingsmooth corners and point at thescalloped side edge.

i. Topstitch the sleeve patchesuniformly, 3/16 inch from the foldededge of the piping.

10 Make ornamental sleeve Datches.(cent’d)

11

]. Press the sleeve patches smoothand flat with a heated pressing ironor pressing machine.

k. Mark each sleeve patch asindicated by the marks on patterns,for the location of three eyelets.

1. Make one eyelet at each markthrough all plies of the sleeve patchfor attaching insignia button.

Stitch and Press dart in ““dersleeves.

a. Fold the under sleeve, matchingthe cut edges of the sleeve dart.Stitch the entire length of the dart1/4 inch from the cut edges of thearmhole, tapering the line ofstitching to zero at the lower foldededge.

b. Turn the cut edges of the darttoward the forearm edge and press theentire dart smooth and flat with aheated pressing iron.

12 Seam sleeves at forearm.

Finished appearance. The forearmseam shall finish smooth and flatwithout twists, gathers, puckers, orpleats and shall start and finishevenly.

STCHTYPE

301

301

Eyelet

301

ssAM/STCHTYPE

SSk-1

(a)(withoutcord )

SSk-1(b)

(withoutcord and

tOp-]titched)

SSa-1(cut

edges )Osf-1(foldededge )

TCH/IK

12-16

12-16

?2 per:yelet

12-16

NDL

Asilk)

A:silk)

Asilk)

A

●soB/LPR

A:silk)

A:silk)

A

[silk)

A

18


MIL-DTL-82156D(MC)

a requirements - Continued.

‘~No I OPERATION

12

13

e

14

a. Position the top sleeve with the

upper fOrea~ edge in line with thenotch in the armhole edge of theunder sleeve and with the notches inthe lower forearm edge of top andunder sleeves matching. Se.9m the topand under sleeves together 3/8 inchfrom forearm edge of the top sleeve,forming a tapered outlet on the undersleeve.

b. Spread open the seam and pressflat with a heated pressing iron.

Seam sleeves at forearm. (cent‘d)

c. Mark the sleeve end for turnupand mark the top sleeve forpositioning the ornamental sleevepatch with pattern marker.

Baste wiqan reinforcement to sleeve.

a. Position the sleeve on the wiganreinforcement piece with marks andnotches m8cching.

b. Saste the sleeve and wigan piecetogether at the umrk for the bottomturnup.

Join ornamental sleeve vatches to topsleeves.

Finished appearance. The ornamentalsleeve patch shall be uniformlystitched co the top sleeve withouttwists, gathers, puckers, pleats orraw edges. The folded front edge ofthe patch shall not be,topstitched.The dimensions and position of theornamental sleeve patch shall be asshown in Figure 4. The scallopededge of sleeve patch shall bestitched to the sleeve at the cornersand point only, in order tofacilitate removal of insigniabuttons when pressing coat.

STCHTYPE

301

Handor101

SmrvsTCHTYPE

Ssbd-1and

SSa-1

TCH/11

12-16

NDL

A

SOB/LPR

A

@

19


MIL-DTL-82156D(MC)


NO I OPERATION

14

15

16

a. Mark the ornamental sleeve patchon the under ply 1/4 inch from theraw edge. Position the sleeve patchon the sleeve with marks matching andwith the bottom edge of the sleevepatch even with the mark for thebottom turnup of the sleeve.

b. Seam the sleeve patch to thesleeve at the mark.

Join ornamental sleeve patches to tonsleeves. (cent’d)

c. Turn back the sleeve patch at theseamline and stitch through thesleeve and wigan along the upper andbottom piped edges. The line ofstitching shall be adjacent to thestitching line of the sleeve patchpiped edge and shall extend from theturned edge to approximately 1/2 inchover the pointed ends. At the centerpoint, the stitching shall extend

approximately 1/2 inch on each sideof the point.

Seam sleeves at backarm.

Finished appearance.. The backarmseam shall finish smooth and flatwithout twists, gathers, puckers, orpleats and shall start and finishevenly.

a. Join the top and under sleevestogether at the backarm with a 3/8in;h seam, catching the ends of thewiqan reinforcement piece in thestitching.

b. Spread open the seam and presssmooth and flat with a heatedpressing iron.

lBaste a“d tack sleeve t“rn”p toIreinforcement.

a. Turn up the bottom edge of thesleeve to the inside at the mark.Baste along the turned edge.

STCHTYPE

301

301

301

ssAM/STCHTYPE

LSa-1

LSbj-1

Ssa-1

TCH/11

12-16

12-16

12-16

NDL

Asilk)

Asilk)

A

BOB/LPR

A

(Silk)

A(silk)

A

.

20


MIL-DTL-82156D(MC)

e~e “1=’”’””-C“”’’””””a a

NO I OPERATION

b. Tack the raw edge of theturned-up portion to thereinforcement wigan piece with blindstitching.

17 scitch and me ss dart in under sleeve~.

a. Fold the under sleeve lining,mstching the cut edge of theundersleevedart. Stitchtheentirelengthof thedart,114inchfromthecutedgesof thearmhole,taperingtheline of stitching to zero at thelower folded edge.

b. Turn the cut edges of the darttoward the forearm edge and press theentire dart smooth and flat with aheated pressing iron.

a 18 Seam sleeve linin.aat forearm.

Finished appearance. The forearmseam shall finish smooth and flatwithout twists, gathers, puckers, orpleats and shall start and finishevenly.

a. Position the top sleeve liningwith upper forearm edge in line with

the notch in the armhole edge ofunder sleeve lining. With thenotches at lower forearm edge of topand under sleeve lining mstching,ses.mthe top and under sleeve liningtogether, 3/8 inch from the foreatmedge of top sleeve lining, forming atapered outlet on the under sleevelining.

19 Seam sleeve lininu at backarm.

Finished appearance. The backazmshall finish smooth and flat withouttwists, gathers, puckers, or pleats

and shall start and finish evenly.

6. Join the top and under sleevelinings at the backamn with a 3/8

e linch seam.

STCHTYPE

Handor101

Jorlor

Hand

301

301

301

sEAt4/STCHTYPE

EFc-1

Ssa-1

[cutedges )OSf-1[foldededge )

SSM-1and

SSa-1

SSa-1

:TCH/It

4-6

4-6

12-16

12-16

12-16

NOL

A[silk)

A

A

A

SOBILPR

c(Silk)

A

A

A

21


MIL-DTL-82156D(MC)


NO OPER4TION

20 Assemble sleeve and sleeve lining.

Finished appearance. The lining

shall be seamed to the sleeve withouttwists, gathers, puckers, or pleats.

20 Assemble sleeve and sleeve lininq.

21

[cent’d)

a. Position the sleeve lining on thesleeve with the upper edge of thelini’ngextended approximately 1 inchbeyond the armhole edge of thesleeve.

b. Tack the sleeve lining to theforearm and backarm seam allowance,respectively, of the top sleeve,commencing at the top edge of thewigan reinforcement piece andextending to approximately 6 inchesfrom armhole edge at backarm and

approximately 4-1/2 inches fromarmhole edge at the forearm.

c. Pull sleeve through lining.

Fell turnup of sleeve lining.

Finished appearance. The sleevelining shall not be short, tight, ortwisted at the bottom of the sleeve.Ia. Turn under the bottom edge ofsleeve lining to finish 1 to 1-1/4inches above the finished end’ofsleeve. Saste to turnup of thesleeve, or, the sleeve lining may befelled to bottom sleeve withoutbasting.

b. Fell the folded edge of thesleeve lining to the turnup of thesleeve with blind stitching.

22 Press sleeves.

a. Turn the sleeves right side outand assemble in pairs. Press thelower half of the sleeves smooth andflat, creasing at the forearm andbackarm. The backarm crease shall b(on the backarm seam. Remove thebasting at lower end of the sleeve.

STCHTYPE

301or

Hand

Handor

101

Handor301

ssAN/STCHTYPE

Ssa-1

EFc-1(b)

TCH/IN

6-8

4-6

8-10

6-B

NDL

Asilk)A

csilk)

osilk)

●SOB/LPR

c[silk)

o[silk)

22


MIL-DTL-82156D(MC)


‘~NO I OPEPATION

23 A9seti le c~ ini g.

Finished appearance. The interliningis made of one ply of plastic[mylar), one Ply of laminated buckranand one ply of polyester twill orplain weave cloth. The interliningshall be constructed without twists,pleats or distortions.

a. position the plastic, buckram anctwill or plain cloth together andjoin with a 1/8 inch seam on theupper and lower edges. Theinterlining shall finish with thetwill cloth on the inside and theplastic on the outside (see Figure

15).

b. Up the raw edge of the collareyelet cover 1/2 to 5/8 inch on thetop inside edge of collarinterlining. Seam the covers to theinterlining 1/4 inch from the rawedge of the cover. In the finishedcoat, the collar eyelet covers shallbe centered over the collar eyelet.

Pioe outer 91v of collar.

Finished appearance. The pipingshall extend at upper, lower, andside edges of the outer Ply. Itshall be uniformly stitched withouttwists, gathers, puckers or pleat9.

a. The outer ply of the collar shallconsist of two plies of basicmaterial, piped at the upper edgewith the vinyl cord and lower edgewith 5/8 to 3/4 inch wide strip ofthe pipingmaterialspecified in3.3.11.

b. Position the two plies of thecollar face up and edges even.Stitch them together from end to end.1/8 inch from the upper and lower?dges.

STCHTYPE

301

SSAwSTCHTYPE

BSa- 1

leachedge)

TCH/11

12-16

NOL

A

BOB/LPR

A

23


MIL-DTL-82156D(MC)


NO OPEPATION

1.. seam the 5/B to 3/4 inch wideIstrip of piping to the lower edge of

24

25

the two plies of collar from end toend, 1/8 inch from the upper andlower edges. Seam the vinyl cord tothe upper collar edge.

Pipe outer vlv of collar. (cent’d)

d. Turn back the piping and outerply at upper and lower edges,uniformly working the folded edge ofthe piping beyond the edges.Topstitch the outer ply uniformly3/16 inch from the folded edge ofpiping.

Assemble collar.

Finished appearance. The collarshall be assembled without twists,gathers, puckers or pleats. In the

finished collar, the end of thelining shall extend approximately 1/2inch beyond the right end of collarand approximately 2-1/2 inches beyond

the left end of the collar for theextension tab. The eyelet c,overshall not be caught in the eyelet.

a. Position the upper piped edge ofcollar 1/0 inch below the upper boundedge of collar interlining with loweredges of collar’ and collarinterlining even. The collar shallextend approximately 1 inch beyondeach end of collar interlining.

b. Stitch collar to interliningalong the upper and lower piped edgefrom edge to end. The line ofstitching shall be adjacent tostitching of the piped collar edge,catching the eyelet cover in thestitching.

STCHTYPE

301

301

301

SSAMSTCHTYPE

SSe-2

BSm-3(b)

SSa-1

rCH/I?

12-16

12-16

12-16

NDL

Asilk)

Asilk)

Asilk)

● “BOB/LPR

A(silk)

A(silk)

A[silk)

24


MIL-DTL-82156D(MC)

a ~e “’=’”’”’s-con’’””””a Q

NO 0PE2L4TION

c. L.Spthe upper piped edge ofcollar assembly over the upper rawedge of lining, approximately inhalf, with the lining facing UP.Stitch collar to lining and eyeletcover along piped edge adjscent tostitching line of the collar pipededge. The stitching shall extendfrOm Center to center of the eyeletcovers.

d. Smoothly fold the ends of thecollar padding and outer ply to theinside over the ends of theinterlining assembly, and press-th and flat with a heatedpressing iron or pressing machine.

25 &s9emble Colla~. (cent’d)

e. Turn the collar lining at theseams to the inside of the collar andpress smooch and flat with a heated

9pressing iron or pressing machine.

26 Flakecollar extension tab.

Finished appearance. The collarextension tab shall extend 3/4 to 1/8,inch beyond the folded edge of the!left end of the collar.

a. ‘Turn che top and bottom edges and,the end of the collar lining at the‘left end of the collar to the inside~of the lining. LWste the turnedportion along the top, front, andbottom edges to the body of thelining, forming the collar extension‘tab.

b. Stitch the collar extension tab1/16 inch from the top, front, andbottom edges. Continue che stitchingat the back of the tab to top row,forming a 1-3/8 to 1-1/2 inch widelbOX stitch.

STCHTYPE

301

Hand

301

SSAwSTCHTYPE

LSa-1

Ssc-1!top andbocc.amedges )Osf-1(front)SSa-1(backedge )

12-16

12-16

NOL

A

Asilk)

SOBILPR

A

A

(Silk)

25


MIL-DTL-82156D(MC)

TABLE 1. Manufacturing requirements - Continued.

NO OPEWTION

27 Fell ends of collar.

Finished appearance. The upper andlower piped edges of the collar ateach end shall not be visible on theoutside of the finished collar.

a. Fold the ends of collar to theinside, against the end ofinterlining. Tack the collar toreinforcement pieces and eyeletcovers with overcast stitching.

b. Insert one metal eyelet, throughall plies of the collar, midwaybetween the upper and bottom edge and1-1/2 t 1/8 inches from the foldededge of either end of the collar.

28 Fold and stitch dart in front lininq.

Finished appearance. The darts shallfinish without gathers, puckers orpleats. The stitching shall be 3/8inch from the folded edqe at thecenter.

a. Fold the front lining and stitchwaist darts i“ accordance with marksindicated on the pattern. Taper the

uPPer and 10wer ends to a flat point,and securely tack the poirits.

29 Sew on identification label.

Finished appearance. Theidentification label shall bepositioned so that, in the finishedcoat, the label shall be midwaybetween front and back edges of theright facing, with the bottom edge ofthe label approximately 4 inches fro=the bottom finished edge of coat.

a. Sew the identification label tothe outside of the right facing witha single row of stitches, 1/16 inchfrom each edge.

STCHTYPE

Hand

301

301

ssAN/STCHTYPE

Osf-1

SSa-1(eachedge )

TCH/IN

2-3

12-16

12-16

NDL

csilk)

A

A

80s/LPR

aA

A

26


MIL-DTL-82156D(MC)

>a requirements - Continued.

‘~NoI OPEAATION

30 Loin front linina to wool facing.

Finished appearance. The liningshall be carefully joined to thefacing so that, in the finished coat,the lining shall be smooth and flatalong the facing without creases,bulges, overlapping of excessmaterial, or other distortion.

a. Position the lining on the woolfacing with the top edges even.

b. Seam front edges of the lining tcthe back edge of the facing 3/8 inchfrom the edge. The stitching shallextend from top edge of facing to

aPPrOxi~tely 1-1/4 inches from thebottom edges.

31 Assemble back lininq.

Finished appearance. The side backlining shall be carefully joined

@

without gathers, puckers or pleats.

The seam shall start and finishevenly.

a. Position and join the left andright side back linings to therespective center backs lining with 83/8 inch seam.

b. Position the backs and join themtogether at the center with e 3/8inch seam.

32 Join side back and front liningS.

33

Finished appearance. The side backand front linings shall be carefullyjoined without gathers, puckers orpleats. The seams shall start andfinish evenly.

a. Position and join the front andside back linings at the sides with a3/4 inch seam.

IOvered.aeetitch 1inina and facing

2?A!!12.

a. Overedge stitch together the rawedges of the facing lining, side,

@

side back, and center back seamallowance.

STCHTYPE

301

301

301

301

503

:0=4

ssAn/STCHTYPE

Ssa-1

Ssa-1

Ssa-1

SSa-1

Ssa-1

TCHII

12-16

12-16

12-16

12-16

6-8

6-8

NDL

A

A

A

A

10/2

70/2

ROBILPR

A

A

A

A

70/2

70/2

27


MIL-DTL-82156D(MC)


NO OPEPATION

34 Pres9 linina seams and waiat darts.

a. Turn the edge of facing-liningseam, the side seams, and side backseams toward the back and presssmooth and flat.

b. Turn the waist darts toward theside seam and press smooth and flat.

35 Assetile fronts.

Finished appearance. The chest andwaist darts shall finish withoutgathers, puckers or pleats. Thestitching for the waist darts shallbe 3/8 inch from the folded edge atthe center.

35 Assemble fronts. (cent’d)

a. Fold the fronts, matching thenotches of the chest darts. Stitchthe entire length of the darts 3/8

36

37

inch from the notches at the upperend, tapering the line of stitchingto zero at the lower end.

b. Fold the fronts and stitch thewaist dart in accordance with themarks indicated on t“hepattern.Taper the upper and lower ends to aflat point and securely tack thepoints.

Press darts on fronts.

a. Turn the folded edge of the chestdarts towards the armhole and presssmooth and flat.

b. Turn the folded edge of the waistdarts towards the armhole and presssmooth and flat.

Assemble back.

Finished appearance. The side andcenter backs shall be joined withoutgathers, puckers or pleats. Theseams shall start and finish evenly.

a. Position the center back withnotches matching and join with a 5/8inch seam.

STCHTYPE

301

301

301

SSAWSTCHTYPE

Ssa-1:ut edgeOsf-1(foldededge )

Osf-1

SSa-1

12-16

12-16

12-16

NDL

A

A

A

BOB/LPR

A

●A

A

28


MIL-DTL-82156D(MC)

(l requirements - Continued.

‘~No OPEAATION

b. Position and join the left andright side backs to the respectivecenter back with a 3/8 inch seem.

38 .30in fronts and back.

Finished appearance. The fronts andback shall be joined without gathers,puckers or pleats. The seam shallstart and finish evenly.

a. Position and join the fronts cothe back at the sides with a 3/4 inchseam.

39 Overedqe stitch front and back seams.

a. Overedge stitch all raw edges ofthe jOining seams for front and back.

b. Spread open the side and backseams and press smooth and flat witha heated pressing iron.

@40 Seam reinforcement stav to armhole

and shoulder.

Finished appearance. The polyesterand cotton reinforcement stays shall,be sevn to the armhole and shoulderedges of the fronts without gathers,puckers or pleats. The top end ofthe armhole stay and lower edge ofthe shoulder stay shall form a right

an91e at the armhole without thestays overlapping each other.

a. Seam the 3/4 inch wide stay tothe shoulder edges and upper frontedges of the armhole, 1/8 inch fromthe outer edges. The stay at thearmhole shall extend from 1/2 inchbelow the shoulder seam down thefront edge of the armhole

approximately 4-1/2 inches; the stayat the shoulder shall extend

8Ppr0XiM6tel Y 1/2 inch from azmholeand neck.

STCHTYPE

301

301

503

5°0:

301

ssAf4/STCHTYPE

Ssa-1

Ssa-1

EFd-

EFd-

SSaa-1

;TCH/11

12-16

12-16

6-8

6-8

12-16

NDL

A

A

10I2

10I2

A

SOBILPR

A

A

70/2

70/2

A

29


MIL-DTL-82156D(MC)


NO 0PER4TION

41 TaPe armholes.

a. Sew the cotton tape to thearmhole. Start with one end

aPPrOX1_tely 1 inch above the notchin the fronts and continue along thelower and back edge of the armhole to

approximately 1/2 inch from theshoulder edge.

b. The tape shall be stitched withslight tension along the lower frontedges of the armhole and shall beheld taut while stitching along theback edge.

42 Press shoulder blades and armhole

UQSLZ.

a. Press the shoulder blades and thearmhole tape smooth and flat with aheated pressing iron or suitable typepressing machine.

43 Mark and dress left frOnt.

a. Mark and shape the left frontedge from the top notch to the bottonfront notch.

b. The mark line shall be 1 inchfrom the upper edge to 1-1/8 inchesat the waist line. Continue on astraight line from the waist line tothe notch at the bottom edge.

NOTE : The dressing and shaping shallbe performed in the sewing room.

c. Where necessary, trim any frayededges along the right front”andbottom edges.

44 Stitch uiDina to coat.

Finished appearance. The pipingshall be uniformly stitched to thecoat without twists, gathers, pucker:or pleats. The piping shall extendfrom the collar notch at top edge ofthe right front, along the bottom amup to the collar notch at the topedge of the left front.

STCHTYPE

301

sEAN/STCHTYPE

Ssaa-1

rCH/1>

12-16

NOL

A

BOBILPR

A

30


MIL-DTL-82156D(MC)

e TABLE I. Manufacturing requirements - Continued.

NO OPERATION

a. Position the 1 inch wide strip 01piping material on the outside ofleft and right fronts, with edgeseven with top, front, and bottomedges of coat. Stitch piping to coat1/8 inch from edge. The piping shallextend from bottm right front edgeto the collar notch at the top edgeof left front.

44 Stitch r.ivina to coac. (cont”d)

b. Turn the piping to the insida,fold-ing the corners smooch and flat,and working out the folded edge ofpiping uniformly, 1/8 inch beyond theedges of the coat. Topstitch thepiped edges of the coat uniformly3/16 inch from the folded edge of thepiping, catching the turned underportion of the piping in thestitching.

e

c. Cut out any axcess pipingmaterial at the top and bottom frontcorners to eliminate bulkiness. Trimthe inner edge of piping on the leftfront only, from the upper front downto approximately 1-1/2 to 2 inchesbelow the waistline, so that thepiping will not interfere with front0f the buttonholes.

d. Serge stitch the raw edge Of thepiping at the bottom edge of thecoat.

e Press the piped edge of the coatsmooch and flat with a heatedpressing iron or pressing m8chine.

45 1nterline fronts.

a . Position the laft and rightfrents on the respective coat frontinterlinings. Baste the interliningsand fronts together from

aPPrOxi~tal Y 3-1/2 inches down fromthe shoulder edge to approximately 2irichesup from the bottom edge of thefrent.

STCHTYPE

301

301

503or504

Hand

3°0rl

SPAWSTCHTYPE

SSa-1

SSe-2(b)

EFd- 1

EFd-1

Hopper

TCH/I

12-16

12-16

6-8

6-8

NOL

A;silk:

Asilk)

70/2

70/2

sOBILPR

A

(Silk)

A(silk)

10/2

70/2

31


MIL-DTL-82156D(MC)


No I OPERATION

45 Interline fronts. (cent’d)

b. Baste along the shoulder,allowing room for setting theshoulder pad, working the fullness inthe frent towards the armhole. Baste

along the front of the armholeapproximately 1 inch from the edge.Continue to baste down the back edgeof interlining, across the waistdart, to approximately 2 inches fromthe bottom edge of fronts. Bastealong the top edge from the bastingstitches for the shoulder to

approximately 1-1/2 inches from thefront edge. Continue to baste

approximately 1-1/2 inches from thefront edge to the bottom edge offronts.

46 Trim coat front interlining.

a. Trim the top edge of coatinterlining even with the top edge offrents, from the point of theshoulder to the collar notch.

b. Notch the top edge of theinterlining in line with the collarnotch.

c. Remove the stitches joining thefront edge of polyester and cottoncloth to coat front interlining,

approximately 1/2 inch back fromfront and top edge of the fronts.

d. Trim the interlining only, evenwith the front and bottom edges ofthe fronts.

e. Turn the fronts inside out andtrim the interlining only,approximately 1/4 inch back from thefrent and top edge of fronts.

f. Trim the shoulder edge of thecoat front interlining to

aPPIOXimatel Y 314 inch from Shedderat armhole edge of fronts; taper thetrimming to 3/8 inch at the neck.

STCHTYPE

Handor301

SEAWSTCHTYPE

Hopper

TCH/Ib

-

NOLBOB/LPR

32


MIL-DTL-82156D(MC)

@TABLE I. Manufacturing requirements - Continued.

NO I OPEPATION

47 Bind front and ton edae 0<Interlining.

a. Smoothly fold the polyester andcotcon, at the top and front edge ofthe interlining, over the respectiveraw edges to the underside. Securethe front turned under portion of thepolyester and cotton co the body ofthe interlining with three rows ofstitches 1/4 inch apart. Place thefirst row 1/8 inch from folded frontedge and catch the upper turned underportion in the stitching.

48 Bind ton neck edae of interlining.

Finished appearance. The polyesterand cotton binding shall be uniformlystitched to the top edge of the coatfront interlining from the collarnotch co the shoulder point.

e

a. LaP the 3/4 inch wide binding onthe outside of the coat frontinterlining, from the collar notch tothe shoulder point, approximately 1/4inch. Stitch the binding to theinterlining, 1/8 inch from the rawedge of the binding.

b. Smoothly fold the free edge ofthe binding over the top edge and tothe underside of the interlining.Secure the free edge of binding tothe interlining with a row ofstitches 1/8 inch from the raw edgeof the binding.

49 Fell pioino to coat frontinterlining.

a. Place the inner edge of thepiping on the outside of theinterlining at the cop, front, andbottom edges. Baste piping to theinterlining through the fronts.

b. Fell the upper front and lowerinner edge of the piping to the coatfront interlining.

c. Pull

@

stitchestab and remove bastingfrom che piping.

STCHTYPE

301

301

301

101

301or

Hand

sEAu/STCHTYPE

EFa-1

LSa-1

BSa-1

EFc-1

TCH/11

12-16

12-16

12-16

4-6

4-6

NOL

A

A

A

Asilk)A

BOB/LPR

A

A

A

c(Silk)

33


MIL-DTL-82156D(MC)


NO OPERATION

49 Fell DiDina to coat frontinterlining. (cent’d)

d. Press the left and right. frontson a suitable type pressing machine.The chest to conform to the shape ofthe body.

50 Set belt 100DS.

Finished appearance. The belt loops

shall finish vertically straight.

a. Center the belt loops verticallyon the side seam with the pointed endtowards the bottom of the coat andwith the raw edge of the loop inhorizontal alignment with the markfor the bottom buttonhole asindicated, by the pattern.

b. Seam the looPs to the coat 1/4inch from the raw edge.

c. Turn the loop at the seam, withthe pointed end towards the top edgeof coat, and secure the looP to thecoat with a row of stitches 1/4 inchfrom the raised edge.

51 Join facina to fronts.

a. Position ;he left and rightfronts to the respective frontfacings (face to face) with thewaistline notch of the front in linewith the notch on the facing and withthe front piped edge approximately3/8 inch from the front edge offacing. Mark the facing along thetop, front, and bottom edge of thecoat.

b. Lap the front edge of the rightand left fronts on the outside of thefacing at the respective marks. Jointhe front and facing as close aspossible to, but not on toP of, thestitching, joining the piping to thefront. The stitching shall extendfrom top to bottom edge of coat frontedge only.

c. Trim excess facing material wherenecessary.

34

STCHTYPE

301

301

301

ssAt4/STCHTYPE

LSq-2(a)

LSq-2

lb)

LSa-1

rCH/Ih

12-16

12-16

12-16

NDL

Asilk)

Asilk)

Asilk)

●BOB/LPR

A(silk)

A(silk) ●

A

(silk)


MIL-DTL-82156D(MC)

c1 requirements - Continued.

‘~NO OPEPJ4TION

52

54

Join front evelec cover to riaht&&@g.

a. Mark the outside of the rightfacing 1/2 inch from the seam joiningfacing to the front. Hark the upperedge of facing in such a manner thatthe front corner of the eyelet covershall finish approximately 1/4 inchdown from the folded edge of piping.

b. u.p the front raw edge of theeyelet cover on the outside of theright facing at the marks. Seam theeyelet cover to the facing only, 1/4inch from ran edge of eyelet cover.

c. Turn back the eyelet cover at theseem and topstitch the cover throughthe facing only, 1/8 to 3/16 inchfrom the raised edge.

Baste front edg~.

a. Turn the facing-lining 8ssemblieSto the inside of fronts. Se.etealongthe front edge of the left and rightfronts, working the facing back fromthe folded edge of the piping.

Saste facina (second timel.

a. Saste the facing to the fronts

8PPr0Xi~tely 1-1/4 inches from thetop, front, and bottom edges of thecoat, holding the lower corner of thecoat in such a manner as to cause thelower front edge of the fronts toroll inward towards the back edge ofthe facing.

b. Turn under and baste the cop edgeof the facing to the fronts from thecollar notch to the front edge,catching the turned under portion ofthe facing to the basting.

STCHTYPE

301

301

101

Hand

300=1

Hand

3°0rl

SsiwSTCHTYPE

LSq-1

(a)

LSq-1

(a)

Hopper

Hopper

TCH/11

12-16

12-16

NDL

Asilk)

Asilk)

s09/LPR

A(silk)

A

(silk)

35


MIL-DTL-82156D (MC)


NO OPERATION

54 Baste facina (second time) . (cent’dl

c. Baste the facing to the fronts asclose as possible to thefacing-lining seam, placing thefullness over the chest anddistributing the fullness in thefacing in accordance with goodcommercial practice. The bastingshall extend approximately 3 inchesfrom shoulder edge of the facings toapproximately 1-1/4 inches from thelower edge of the facing.

d. Turn under the bottom edge of thefacing at the mark and baste alongthe folded edge.

55 Lack facinc!s to interlining.

a. Tack the right and leftfacing-lining seam allowance to therespective coat front interliningfrom approximately 2-1/2 inches frombottom edge of coat to approximately3 inches from the shoulder edge.

56 Baste lininqs to coat.

a. Fold the front 11nin9 inaccordance with the notches, formingthe chest pleat, and baste along theentire center of the pleat. Thefolded edge of the pleat on theoutside of the lining shall betowards the armhole.

b. Baste the front lining to thecoat, starting at the lower end ofchest pleat, continuing along thelower edge of armhole approximately 2inches from the edge, and ending atthe side seam. Match the side seamsof coat and lining. Continue bastingas close as possible to the side seamand then across the bottom towardsthe front, approximately 4 inchesfrom piped bottom edge of coat.

STCHTYPE

Hand

300=1

Handor301

Handor103

Handor301

Handor301

sEAf4/STCHTYPE

Hopper

Hopper

SSm-1

Hopper

Hopper

!CH/IN

2-6

4-6

NOL

csilk)A

silk)

BOB/LPR

36


MIL-DTL-82156D(MC)

9 TABLE I. Manufacturing requirements - Continued.

NO OPESATION

56 easte lininws to coac. (cent‘d)

c. Fold the back lining, fOKMing an

approximately 1 inch wide pleat atthe center back. Baste the backlining to the coat along the centerpleat from the top end to

approximately 4 inches from thebottom finished edge of coat.

d. Fmste back lining to coat. Startat side seam and continue

approximately 3 inches from thearmhole and shoulder edges.

57 Hem battom ed.aeof lininq.

Finished appearance. The hem shallbe uniformly stitched and shallfinish smooth end flat withouttwists, gathers, puckers or pleats.The hem shall be 3/4 ~ 1/S inch wide.The lining securing straps shall be

9

positioned on the side seam outletsof the lining with one edge even withthe Serged edge.

a. Hem the bottom edge of bodylining with the raw edge turned underand with one end of the securingscraps positioned and caught in thestitching, 1/16 inch from the upperfolded edge of hem.

58 Tack the lininq securinq straDs cobottom of coat.

Finished appearance. The liningsecuring straps when tacked to thebottom edge of coat shall not causetwists or other distortions to either

the coat or the lining. The end ofthe securing straps shall finishbetween the piping ac bottom edge ofcoat and side seam allowance. In thefinished coat, the lining shall not.be visible below the bottom edge ofcoat .

a. Position and securely tack thefree end of the securing straps tothe piping at the bottom edge of coatthrough the side seam allowance.

e

37

STCHTYPE

Hand

3;1

Hand

300=1

301

301

SsiwSTCHTYPE

Hopper

Hopper

EPb-1

SSbh-3

TCH/Ih

12-16

12-16

NDL

A

I+

sOBILPR

A

A


MIL-DTL-82156D(MC)


NO OPESATION

58 Tack the linina Securina StraDS tobottom of coat. (cent’d)

b. Position the bottom edge of thelining so that, in the finished coat,the lining shall not be visible belowthe bottom edge of the coat. Fold

the lining securing straps across thewidth and stitch approximately 1/4

inch from the folded end in order tohold the lining in position.

59 Fell facinqa.

a. Fell the facing to the piping atthe bottom edge of the coat. Startat the bottom edge of the lining andIcontinue along the back and bottom

60

61

edges of the facing to the front edgeof the coat.

b. Fell the folded edge of thefacings to the piping along the topedge from the collar notch to frontedge of the coat.

Trim lininq and interli”inq.

a. Trim the excess coat fIOntinterlining and front lining at thearmhole.

b. Trim back lining even at theneck.

c. Trim the shoulder edge of thefront and back lining toapprOX1mately 3/4 inch from Shoulderat the armhole edge and taper thetrimming to 3/8 inch at the neck.

Baste shoulder Dad to coat.

a. Insert shoulder pads betweeninterlining and chest padding of coatfronts. Securely tack the pads tothe interlining and chest paddingonly.

62 Seam shoulders.

Finished appearance. The shoulderseam shall finish without a distortecappearance.

STCHTYPE

301

Hand

Hand

Handor301

SSAnlSTCHTYPE

Osf-1

Hopper

!CH/IN

6-10

8-10

8-10

NDL

A

csilk)

csilk)

A

BOB/LPR

38


MIL-DTL-82156D(MC)


‘~NO OPESATION

62 Seam shoulders. (cent’d)

a. Join the back to the fronts atthe shoulder9 with a 3/8 inch seam,working in the fullness on the backin accordance with good manufacturingpractice.

b. Spread open the shoulder seam andpress flat, holding the shouldersshort and exercising much care inpressing in order not to effect adistorted appearance in the finishedseam. The pressing shall beaccomplished with a heated pressingiron or pressing machine over asuitable block.

c. Position the front lining andcoat front interlining at the neck,shoulder and armhole edges of thefronts. Baste all plies togetheralong the front edge of armhole.

9

Continue along the shoulder seam andgorge, catching the shoulder pad inthe basting.

63 Set shoulder straos.

Finished appearance. The shoulderstraps shall be uniformly stitched cothe coat without twists, puckers,pleats or other distortion. On thefinished coat, the straps, includingthe piping, shall be 2-3/8 ~ 1/8

inches wide at the armhole seam andshall taper to 1-3/4 I 1/8 incheswide at the buttonhole eyelet end.

a. Position the shoulder straps withthe back edge 1/4 to 1/2 inch to theback of the shoulder seam at thearmhole and with the rounded end ofthe straps, on the finished coat, 1/4to 3/8 inch from lower edge of thecollar.

b. Seam the shoulder straps to thecoat 3/8 inch from the armhole edge.Trim the shoulder straps even withthe armhole where necessary. Turnthe coat on the inside.

STC14TYPE

301

Hand

3%1

301

SEAMsTCHTYPE

Ssa-1

Hopper

Ssa-1

TCH/11

12-16

12-16

NOL

A

Asilk)

BOBILPR

A

A(silk)

39


MIL-DTL-82156D(MC)


NO OPERATION

64 Baste back lininu and facina-liningassembly at shoulders.

a. Turn under and lap the shoulderedge of the back lining on thefacing-lining assembly. Baste thelining to the coat along the foldededge of the back lining with the topend of the chest pleat caught in thebasting.

65 Seam neckline with size label andcoat hanuer:

Finished appearance. The necklineshall finish smooth and flat, withouttwists, pleats or puckers. The sizelabel shall be positioned between theends of the coat hanger and the endsof the coat hanger shall bepositioned so that, in the finishedcoat, the hanger opening shall be 2 ?1/8incheslong when measured alongthe lower edge of the collar lining.

a. Join the facings and back liningto coat at the neckline, from collarnotch to collar notch, with a 1/4inch seam and with the upper edge ofthe size label and the ends of thehanger positioned and caught in thestitching at the inside center back.

b. Press the neckline of the coatsmooth and flat with a heatedpressing iron or pressing machine.

66 Set collar with lininq. .

Finished appearance. The collarshall be carefully joined to the coatwithout distortion of the collar.

a. Mark the neckline on the inside,3/0 to 1/2 inch from top edge, forproper positioning of collar.

b. Position the collar with thelower edge lapped on the outside topedge of the coat at the mark.

STCHTYPE

Hand

301

ssAm/STCHTYPE

SSa-1

TCH/11

12-16

NDL

A

BOS/LPR

40


NC—6{

MIL-DTL-82156D(MC)


OPERATION

~ 1 Wi ining. (cent’d)

c. Seam the collar, from end to end,to the coat as close as possible to,but not on top of, the stitching forthe piping at the lower edge of thecollar. The stitching shall not bethrough the collar lining.

sake butto nholes.

Finished appearance. The buttonhole:shall be clean cut, well made, wellworked over gimp to fit 40-lineinsignia buttons. The stitching ofthe buttonholes shall be securelycaught in the basic material. The~imp and thread shall be pulledthrough to the underside of thefront. The purling of thebuttonholes shall be on the outsidesf the fronts. The inside edge of[he eyelet end of the buttonholeshall be 5/8 inch from the front edgeCIf coat . The buttonholes shall becut-first type.

9. Mark the left front for thelocation of seven buttonholes. Thenarks for the top and bottom

xtttonholes shall be in accordanceiith the patterns. The marks for theremaining five buttonholes shall be?venly spaced.

>. Make one horizontal, eyelet end,!quare-bar type buttonhole, cut 1-1/4~nches long, at each of the marks.

:. Securely bartack the end of each>uttonhole, catching the ends of the~imp and thread in the bartack. Triu:he ends of the gimp and thread.

jet sleeves.

?inished appearance. Theimttole-sleeve seam shall finish#ithout twists, gathers, puckers oraleats.

STCHTYPE

301

button-hole

Iarcack

SEMISTCHTYPE

LSa-1

TCH/Ib

12-16

$0 peruttOn-hole(notincl.

artack)

!1 perartack

NDL

A

Bsilk)

Asilk)

BOBILPR

A

F(silk)

A(silk)

41


MIL-DTL-82156D(MC)


NO OPERATION

68 Set sleeves. (cent’d)

a. Position the sleeve on outside ofcoat at the armhole, with backarmseam of sleeve matching the side backseam, and with notch in the topsleeve and the front matching.

b. Join the sleeve to the coat witha 3/8 inch seam, catching the end ofthe shoulder straps in the stitching.

c. Press the entire armhole smoothand flat with a heated pressing iron.Exercise care not to stretch thearmhole. Spread open upper part ofthe armhole-sleeve seam from thebackarm seam of sleeve to

approximately midway between shoulderseam and notch at front edge ofarmhole. Press smooth and flat witha heated pressing iron.

d. Fold the excess material at thearmhole pit up to the line of thestitching of the armhole sleeve seam,forming a hinge effect. The fold

shall extend from the arn!Aole “etchto approximately 4 inches from thebackarm seam.

e. Press the fold smooth and flatwith a heated ‘pressing iron.

69 Baste armhole.

a. Baste around the entire armholeon the inside, holding the backlining, shoulder pad and front liningin place and distributing fullnessevenly. Turn the coat on theoutside.

b. Baste around the outside armholeadjacent to the armhole seam, forcin<out the armhole in the basting. Thebasting shall extend from the backarnseam of the sleeve to the front notclof coat.

70 Set underarm shields.

a. Baste or tack underarm

the base of the armhole.shields al

STCHTYPE

301

Hand

Hand

Handor301

SEAMISTCHTYPE

SSa-1 12-16

NDL

A

BOBILPR

A

42


MIL-DTL-82156D(MC)

e ~e “’=’”’”’s-‘O”’l””””a a

NO

72

73

OPESATION

Stitch sleeve-head Dads and linin~

fitarndtole.

Finished appearance. The armholeshall not be distorted or puckereddue to stitching the sleeve-head padsand linings at the armhole.

a. Position the sleeve-head pad onthe sleeve with the folded edge ofthe pad approximately 1/8 inch backfrom the raw edge of thearmhole-sleeve seam and with the oneend of the pad matching the notch inthe fronts.

b. Stitch the sleeve-head pad to thesleeve front, end to end, through thearmhole-sleeve seam allowance, 1/8inch from the folded edge of the pad,catching the front and back liningsand the shoulder pad in thestitching. Continue stitching thelinings around the remainder of thearmhole, catching the underarmshields in the stitching and trimmingaway the excess meterial.

c. The underarm shield may be bastedto the ardtole prior to stitching.

Tack underarm shield to Iininq.

Finished appearance. The tacking for

the underamshieldshallfinishapproximately1/2inch from theseamed edges.

a. Tack the underside of theunderarm shields to the body liningalong the side and bottom edges.

~ack Iinina and facina-lininqassemblv at shoulders.

a. Fell the back lining andfacing-lining assemiYly together atthe shoulders. Place the stitchingover the folded edge of back liningand secure the top end of the chestpleat in the felling.

b. Fell the folded edge of facing tothe piping along the top edge fromcollar notch to frent edge of coat.

STCHTYPE

Hand

3%

301

301

Hand

Hand

Hand

SEMISTCHTYPE

Ssa-1

Ssa-1

TCH/Xl

4-6

4-6

4-6

8-1o

8-10

NOL

A

24/4

csilk)

csilk)

csilk)

SOB/LPR

A

24/4

43


MIL-DTL-82156D(MC)

TABLE I. Manufacturing requirements - continued:

I

NO OPESATION

74 Fell sleeve linina at armhole.

a. Position the sleeve lining at thearmhole with the back and forearmseams of the sleeve and sleeve liningmatching.

b. Turn under the armhole edge ofthe sleeve lining. Lap the lining onthe outside of the front and backlining and the top edge of theunderarm shield. Fell the sleevelining to the coat around the entirearmhole. Place the stitching overthe folded edge of the sleeve lining,catching the underarm shield in thefilling, and distribute the fullnessin accordance with good commercialpractice. Backstitch the lowerarmhole edge from the backamn seam ofsleeve to the front edge of theshield.

-Or-

C. Machine stitch the lower edge ofthe sleeve lining at the armhole, onthe inside from forearm seam tobackarm seam. Hand fell theremaining portion as”specified inoperation 74 .b.

-Or-

al. Machine stitch the lower edge ofthe sleeve lining at the armhole, onthe inside, from forearm seam tobackarm seam. Stitch the remainingportion of the sleeve lining at thearmhole with machine simulated handfelling.

NOTE : It is required that thesimulated hand felling produced bymachine shall be equal to or betterthan the hand felling.

STCHTYPE

Hand

301

[achint

ssAM/STCHTYPE

Ssa-1

rcH/Ih

8-10

12-16

8-1o

NOL

csilk)

A

csilk]

BOB/LPR

44


MIL-DTL-82156D(MC)


‘~NO OPERATION

15 Mark for evelets in shoulders.

a. Hark each shoulder for thelocation of one eyelet for removableinsignia buttons to align with theeyelet of buttonhole in the shoulderstrap. On the finished coat, theshoulder strap shall lie smooth andflat without twisting or bulging.

16 flake evelets.

l-l

@

78

Finished appearance. The eyeletshall be well worked with purling ofthe eyelet on the outside of theshoulder. The eyelets shall finishwith a 1/8 co 3/16 inch diameteropening.

a. Make one eyelet at the mark oneach shoulder through all plieS.

Sew hook and eve to collar.

Finished appearance. The hook andeye shall be positioned to properlyengage each other, effecting a flat.

smooth closure at the front of thecollar without misalignment.

a. Position and securely sew thehook to the right end and the eye tothe left end of the collar. The hookand eye shall be Wsitioned withtheir front edges even with therespective front ends of the collarand securely sewn to the collar atthe top and bottom edge of the hookand eye. The stitching on each 9ideshall not be more than 3/8 inch fromthe front end of the collar throughthe individual holes at che rear ofthe hook and eye.

Finish collar.

a. Securely tack the lower cornersof the collar to the coat.

STCHTYPE

Eyelet

Hand

Hand

SsAn/STCHTYPE TCH/11

!2 perlyelet

[2 perhookand;2 pereye

8-10

NDL

Asilk)

csilk)~oublcmead )

c

S09/LPR

A

{silk)

45


—

NC—78

7?

8(

MIL-DTL-82156D (MC)

TABLE I. Manufacturing requirements .-Continued.

OPERATION

?inish collar. {cent’d)

>. Turn under the end and top edge>f the lining at the right end of the:ollar. Position the folded edge of:he lining under the hook and fell it:0 the end of the collar. COnt inuefelling along the top folded edge to:he end of the stitching joining thelining to the collar.

:. Turn under and fell the lower:dqe of the collar lining to the coatFrom end to end, catching the turnedmder portion of the lining at theright end in the felling.

SOTE: The lower edge of the collarLining may be basted to the coat?rior to felling.

i. Fell the collar extension tab to

the left end of the collar andcontinue along the folded top edge tcthe end of this stitching joining thelining to the collar.

f!. Turn the collar eyelet covers tothe inside of the collar and fell thefront edge, from top to bottom edge.Zontinue the felling along the bottonedge for a distance of 1/2 inch fromthe front edge.

Fell fron’teyelet cover.

a. Turn the front eyelet cover toinside. Securely fell the upper andlower seamed edges of the cover tothe facing, placing stitching overthe folded edges of the cover.

!larkfor buttons on riaht front.

a. Mark the location for sewingseven 40-line insignia buttons to thfright front of the coat to properlyengage with the buttonhole of theleft front.” The mark for top buttonshall be in line with right front en<of collar and remaining buttons shallbe in vertical alignment with topmark.

STCHTYPE

Hand

Hand

Hand

Hand

Hand

ssAM/STCHTYPE TCH/IN

8-1o

8-10

8-1o

8-10

6-8

NDL

csilk)

c:silk)

c‘silk)

csilk)

c:silk)

sowLPR

46


MIL-DTL-82156D(MC)

e TABLE I. Manufacturinca requirements - Continued.

INO I OPERATION

01l~ew 0

n buttons.

a. Sew on 40-line insignia button ateach of the m8rks on the right frontthrough all plies.

b. The insignia buttons cm the frontshall be sewn with the head of theeagle upright.

e2 Clean coa~.

a. pull any basting thread and trimand remove any loose ends of thread.Remove any spots, stains and ticketswithout injury to the material.

83 Press coat.

a. The coat shall be well pressedthroughout with a heated pressingironor Pressingmachineof a typesuitable to obtain the desired shape

e

and appearance in accordance withgood manufacturing practices.

b. Press the fronts smooth and flat,straightening and shaping the frontedges and working fullness towardsthe chest. Care shall be exercisedin pressing the fronts so that thebottom edges are even.

c. Press the entire collar smoothand flat.

d. Press the fronts on a bodymachine, shrinking and properlyshaping the chest.

e. Press the sides, working thefullness towards the back.

f. Press the back smooth and flat,removing all fullness.

9. Press the sleeves smooth andflat, creasing at the backarm andforearm sema. The backarm creaseshall be on the backarm seam. Theforearm and backarm crease shall

extend unifotmly to a pointapproximately 3 to 3-1/2 inches below

@

Iche base of ihe armhole.

STCHTYPE

Hand

sEAn/STCHTYPE rCH/IN

1 per,uttonioublcTread)

NDL

24/4

BOBILPR

47


MIL-DTL-82156D(MC)


NO OPERATION

83 Press coat. (cent’d)

h. Block the shoulders to remove thefullness and press shoulders smoothon a shoulder shaping machine. Pressthe shoulder strap flat.

i. Press the armholes solid from theinside, creasing the armhole at thefrent, and creasing the excessmaterial at the armpit. The armpitand back of the armhole shall be heldshort while pressing.

j. Block the armholes on a pressingbuck, shrinking the top sleeves.

k. Press the lower edge of the coatsmooth, flat, and even.

1. Remove all wrinkles andimpressions from under shoulderstraps.

m. Press body lining throughout,removing all back wrinkles andcreases. Press the front and backlining pleats smooth and flat.

n. Remove all gloss,marks.

o. Remove any wrinkles and creasesmissed by previous pressingoperations.

84 Mark for belt looP button.

a. Mark each side seam for thelocation of one removable 27-lineinsignia button to properly alignwith the eyelet buttonhole in thebelt loop.

85 Cut openina for belt looP buttons.

a. Cut a vertical opening,

approximately 1/4 inch long, at themark on each side seam. The openingshall be made through the side seamof the wool parts of the coat only.

b. Securely tack or bartack each encof the opening.

\

STCHTYPE

Handor301

SEANISTCHTYPE ?CH/IK

2-4

4-6

NDL

csilk]A

silk!

BOB/LPR

a

A[silk)

●48


MIL-DTL-82156D(MC)

@TABLE I. ~anufacturina requirements - Continued.

I

NO OPEP.ATION

86 Attach buttons.

a. Sew one 40-Iine insignia buttonat each of the marks on the rightfront. The buttons shall be sewnthrough all plies of materials.

b. Inset the shank on one 27-lineinsignia button through each eyeleton shoulders, ornamental sleevepatch, and through the openings atthe side seams.

c. Attach a reinforcement disc (See3.3.5) over the shank of the buttonon each side seam. Secure buttons toshoulders, side seam and ornamentalsleeve patch with metal ring toggleS.

d. Button belt 100P9.

STCHTYPE

SFJWSTCHTYPE TCH/11 NDL

SOB/LPR

3.7. Finished measurements. The finished measurements shall

@

conform to those listed in Table II.

Table II. Finished measurements. II

Size Breast ~/ Back length ~1 Sleeve length l/(inches) (inches) (inches) (inches)

Short

3435363738394041424446

3536373839404142434547

28-3/428-7/82929-1/829-1/429-3/829-1/229-5/829-3/43030-1/4

17-1/217-1/217-1/217-1/217-1/217-1/217-1/217-1/217-1/217-1/217-1/2

49


MIL-DTL-82156D(MC)

Table II. Finished measurements - Continued. ~/

Sizea

Breast z/ Back length 2/ Sleeve length ~/(inches) (inches) (inches) (inches)

1 1 I

Regular

34 35 29-3/4 18-1/235 36 29-7/836

18-1/237 30 18-1/2

37 38. 30-1/8 18-1/238 39 30-1/4 18-1/239 40 30-3/8 18-1/240 41 30-1/2 18-1/241 42 30-5/8 18-1/242 43 30-3/4 18-.1/244 45 31 18-1/246 47 31-1/4 18-1/2

3435363738394041424446

Long

3536373839404142434547

30-3/430-7/83131-1/831-1/431-3/831-1/231-5/831-3/43232-1/4

Extra Long

34 3535 3636 3737 3838 3939 4040 4141 4242 4344 4546 47

19-1/219-1/219-1/219-1/219-1/219-1/219-1/219-1/219-1/219-1/219-1/2

9D

32-1/4 20-1/232-3/8 20-1/232-1/2 20-1/232-5/8 20-1/232-3/4 20-1/232-7/8 20-1/233 20-1/233-1/8 20-1/233-1/4 20-1/233-1/2 20-1/233-3/4 20-1/2

~/ Tolerance for all measurements shall be f 3/8 inch.

. ●50


@

iJ Breastfolded

MIL-DTL-82156D(MC)

measurement shall be taken with coat buttoned, fromedge to folded edge in line with the pit of the

armhole; multiply by 2.

Back length measurement shall beseam, from the lower edge of theedge of the coat.

taken along the center backcollar to the piped bottom

Sleeve length measurement shall be taken along the forearmseam from the pit of the armhole to the bottom edge of thesleeve.

3.8. Workmanship. The finished coats shall conform to thequality and grade of product established by this specification.

3.9. Recvcled, recovered., or environmentallv preferablematerials. Recycled, recovered, or environmentally preferablematerials should be used to the maximum extent possible providedthat the material meets or exceeds the operational andmaintenance requirements, and promotes economically advantageouslife cycle costs.

@4. VERIFICATION

4.1. Classification of inspection.specified herein are classified as

a. First article inspection

The inspection requirementsfollows:

(see 4.3).b. Conformance inspection (see 4.4).

4.2. ~pection conditions. Unless otherwise specified, allinspections shall be performed in accordance with the testconditions specified in Table III.

51


MIL-DTL-82156D(MC)

Table III. Test methods.

Reqmt. Test No.det. Resultscomponents Characteristics para. method perS/unit reportedas

Hook and eye Tackiness 3.3.17 4.5.2 1 Pass of fail

Padding felt Material identification 3.3.6 1200 1 Pass or fail

(for collar)Weight, oz per sq yd 3.3.6 5041 5 Avg. of the 5

det. tonearest 0.1oz.

Color 3.3.6 Visual 1 Pass or fail

4.3. First article inspection.(see 6.2), it shall be examined

4.4.2.1 and 4.4.2.2.

4.4. Conformance inspection.

When a first article is requiredfor the defects specified in

4.4.1 Component and material testinq. Components and materialsshall be tested in accordance withall the requirements ofreference specifications, fiaures, and standard unless otherwiseexcluded, amended, modified or qualified in this specification or

applicable purchase document. In addition to the testingprovisions contained in subsidiary specifications, figures, and ●standards, tesring shall be performed on the components listed inTable III for the characteristics noted. Wherever applicable,tests shall be conducted in accordance with ASTM E1282 andFED-STD-191. When the “Results reports as” columns are notindicated, they shall be reported as required by the referencedtest method. All test reports contain individual values utilizedin expressing the final results.

4.4.1.1. Samplinq for testing. Unless otherwise specified insubsidiary specifications, sampling shall be in accordance withANSI/ASQC Z1.4. The unit for expressing lot sizes and sampleunit fore testing each component shall be in accordance withapplicable subsidiary specifications and as follows:

Component Expressed as Sample unit for testinq

Hook and eye 100 each two each, hook and eyePadding for collar yards 1/4 yard full width

4.4.1.2. In-process inspection. An inspection shall be performedduring manufacture of the end item to ascertain that the ●

52


MIL-DTL-82156D(MC)

operations are performed as specified herein. The Government

reserves the right to determine the acceptability of constructionmethods not performed in accordance with the specifiedrequirements for operations or subassemblies.

4.4.2 Examination of end item. The defects found duringexamination of the end item shall be classified in accordancewith 4.4.2.2 through 4.4.2.5. The sample unit shall be one coat.

4.4.2.1. Classification of defects. All defects shall beclassified as indicated, except those numbered 1 through 23 inthe major classification column, which shall be classified asfollows:

Major defect - When seriously affecting appearance orserviceability.

Minor A defect - When not seriously affecting appearance orserviceability.

4.4.2.2. General defects. General defects shall be classified asindicated below.

eExamine

Buttonholes(construction)

Defects

a. One or more omitted oradded.

b. Wrong type or uncut.

c. Not corresponding to size ofbutton:

- too small, not permittingbutton to enter buttonhole.

- too large, 3/8 inch ormore longer than the diameterof button (measured at insideof purling) .

d. Buttonhole not securelycaught on fabric, causingstitching to pull away fromfabric.

e. Bartack missing or loose on:- one buttonhole.- two or more buttonholes.

Classification

Iajox

X

102

103

104

MinorA

—

201

202

203

B

53


MIL-DTL-82156D (MC)

Examine

Buttonholes(construction)(cent’d)

Buttons or rin(toggles

Defects

f. Bartack misplaced notserving intended purpose on:

- one buttonhole.- two or more buttonholes.

3. One or more broken stitchesin:


h. More than two skippedstitches in:


i. Ragged edges, affectingappearance.

j. Gimp omitted in one or morebuttonholes.

k. Stitches per buttonhole (notincluding bartack) less thanthe minimum specified:

- one or two stitches.- three or “more stitches.

1. One or more buttonholesfinished with purling on theunderside.

m. Ends of gimp not pulledthrough the underside on one ormore buttonholes.

a. Missing, loose, broken, ordefective:

- one button or ring toggle.- two or more buttons or two

or more ring toggles.

b. Not specified type, size,color or finish.

c. One or more buttons rightfront sewn with the head of theeagle in other than uprightposition.

classification

ajor Minor ●A B

105

106

107

?04

?05

?06

207

~138

209

210

301

302

303

●304

305

306

54


MIL-DTL-82156D(MC)

e Classification

Examine Defects Major MinorAB

NOTE : Buttons shall be considered defective if they havesharp, rough, cracked, or split edges; unsoundsoldering, scratches; dents, blemishes or imbeddedforeiqn matter on face side of button; loose shanks; orare b~dly shaded.

Cleanness

Components andassembly

Cutting

Evelet

49(construction’

a. One or more removable spotsor stains clearly noticeableoutside of the coat.

b. One or more removable spotsclearly noticeable on theinside of the coat.

c. One or more spots or stainsof an obvious permanent nature.

d. Thread ends not trimmed,loose thread ends, two or moreshade markings, or bastings notremoved throughout garment (tobe scored when the conditionexists on major portion ofcoat) .

a. Any defective component ordefect of assembly (not hereinclassified) .

b. Any component part orrequired operation omitted (notherein classified).

a. Any component part of basicwool material not cut inaccordance with directionallines on patterns or inaccordance with thespecification requirements.

b. Piping or binding materialcut on bias

c. Any lining part not cut inaccordance with directionallines on patterns.

a. One or more omitted oradded.

b. Wrong type.

55

1

2

3

108

109

211

212

213

214

215

307


MIL-DTL-132156D(MC)

Examine

Metal eyelet

(collar)

Hook and eye

Materialdefects anddamages

Defects

:. Eyelet not securely caughtm fabric, causing stitching to>u1l away from fabric.

i. Diameter of inside openingless than 1/8 inch or more than1/4 inch.

z. One or more eyelets uncut.

f. One or more broken stitchesin:

- one eyelet.- two or more eyelets.

3. More than two skippedstitches in one or moreayelets.

h. One or more eyelets finished~ith the purling on theunderside.

a.

b.

c.

a.

b.

Any omitted.

Defective eyelet.

Not specified type or size.

Not specified type or size.

Not’alianed, causina collarends to be-uneven by 174 inchor ‘more when front is buttonedand hook and eye are fastened.

c. Hook and eye not securelytacked to ends of collar.

d. Hook and eye misplaced;i.e., hook positioned on leftend, eye positioned on rightend of the collar.

a. Any weakening defects, suchas smash, multiple float, andloose slub, etc., that maydevelop into a hole.

b. Any hole (including drillholes) .

.

56

[ajor

110

4

5

~ication

MinorA B

!16

?17

?18

?19

220

221

222

?23

224

?25

308

309

310


MIL-DTL-82156D(MC)

eExamine Defects

c. Shade bar, unsightly slub,etc. :

- on outside.- on inside.

d. Needle chews which maydevelop into a hole.

e. Scissors or knife cut, tear,mend, or burn.

Classification

Major MinorA B

6226

7

8

NOTE : Material defects and workmanship damages are to beclassified as indicated above only when the condition isone which definitely weakens the fabric or when it is soconspicuously located as to be clearly noticeable.Weakening or nonweakening conditions which areinconspicuous and have negligible effect onserviceability are to be classified as follows:

Material defect - No defectWorkmanship damages - Minor B defect

ePressing

Pressing(cent’d)

a. Burned or scorched.

b. Pressing omitted (entiregarment).

c. Poorly pressed (unlessotherwise indicated).

d. Armhole stretched, affectingappearance.

e. Basting or pressingimpressions not removed onmajor portion of the coat.

f. Gloss not removed throughoutcoat, affecting appearance.

g. Armholes not blocked orblocked poorly.

h. Inside of armholes notpressed solid.

i. Edges bulky, i.e., notpressed solid, affectingappearance..

9

227

228

229

23o

231

311

312

313

57


Examine

Seams andstitching

Seams andstitching(cent’d)

MIL-DTL-82156D(MC)

Defects

j. Sleeve not creased asrequired on forearm and backarmseam.

k. Armhole sleeve seam not?ressed open from backarm seam~f sleeve and across top asspecified.

1. Linings not pressed smooth.

a. Accuracy of seaming:

1. Any seam twisted,puckered or pleated, affectingappearance.

2. Part of garment caughtany unrelated operation orstitching.

3. Unsightly hand fellingblind stitching exposed onoutside of coat, affectingappearance.

4. Ends of all stitching

in

or

(when not caught in other seamsor stitching) not backpacked orbackstitched as required.

5. Wrong color of thread ortwo shades of thread used onoutside of coat, affectingappearance.

b. Gage of stitching (edge orraised stitching) :

1. Irregular, i.e., unevenlygated; or various stitching notuniform, affecting appearance.

2. Beyond range of widthspecified; or varies more than1/16 inch when no range isspecified.

Classification

Minor a!ajor

10

11

A

232

233

234

235

B

314

315

316

317

58


@ Examine

MIL-DTL-82156D(MC)

Defects

c. Open seams:

1. On outside:- up to 1/4

inclusive.- more than

not more than 1/2- more than

2. On inside:- more than

(except machine felling).- up to 1/2 inch

inclusive (except machinefelling).

up to 1 inch inclusive(machine felling).

- more than 1 inch(machine felling).

inch

1/4 inch butinch.1/2 inch.

1/2 inch

classification

Iajor

111

MinorA

236

237

238

NOTE : One or more broken stitches or two or more continuous

@

skipped or runoff stitches constitute an c

i. Raw edges:

1. On outside:- UP tO 1/8

inclusive.- more than


2. On inside:- more than


inch



len seam.

112

239

240

B

318

319

320

321

322

NOTE : Raw edges shall be classified as such when they occur atplaces where an edge is required to be turned under.Raw edges not caught in stitching shall be classified asopen seams.

Seams andstitching(cent’d)

@

e. Runoffs (see CldSSificatiOnof open seams) .

f. Stitch tension:

1. Loose tensionin loose seam.

resulting 113

59


Examine

MIL-DTL-82156D(MC)

Classification

Defects Major Minor ●AB

2. Loose tension on raised 241 Ior edge stitching, resulting inloosely exposed bobbin or topthread.

3. Tight tension (stitches 114break when normal strain isapplied) .

NOTE : Puckering is evidence of tight tension. When puckeringis evident, the inspector shall test the seam byexerting pull in lengthwise direction of seam.

9. Stitches per inch (excludinglabels):

1. Less than minimumspecified:

- one or more stitches.- three stitches. 242- four stitches or more. 115

323

NOTE : To be scored only if condition exists on a major portion

●of seam.

Shaded parts

h. Wrong stitch and seam type.

i. Stitching skipped or broken(on edge or raised stitchingwhen seam is seamed, turned andstitched) :

- 1/4 inch or more but notmore than 1/2 inch.

- more than 1/2 inch.

a. On outside.

b. On inside:

1. Any lining part badlyshaded (except sleeve lining) .

2. Any lining part badlyshaded; or pairs not matchingeach other.

12

243

244

245

324

325

60


MIL-DTL-U2156D(MC)

@

4.4.2.3. Detailed defects (outside of coat). Detailed defects on

outside of coat with coat buttoned on form shall be classified asfollows:

Classification

Examine

Collar(constructionand setting)

Defects

a. Interlining omitted.

b. Interlining tight ortwisted, causing puckers oncollar, affecting appearance.

c. Tight at joining to front orback, causing puckers or pleatsat neck of coat, affectingappearance.

d. Piping irregular, affectingappearance.

e. Collar ends overlapping whenfastened.

f. Collar ends spread open morethan 3/8 inch when fastened.

9. One ply of outer basicmaterial.

h. Binding strip at top orbottom edge of interliningomitted.

i. Binding strip at top orbottom edge of interliningother than material specified.

j. Center of eyelets fromfinished ends of collar lessthan 1-1/4 inches or more than1-3/4 inches.

k. One or both eyeletsoff-center with top and bottomedges of collar by more than1/4 inch.

1. Collar off-center by morethan 3/8 inch.

,ajor

116

13

117

MinorA—

!46

?47

?48

?49

250

251

~52

253

B

326

61


MIL-DTL-82156D(MC)

Examine

Collar(constructionand setting)(cent’d)

Alignment offront buttonsand buttonholes

Length offronts

Shoulder(construction)

Shoulder pads

Defects

n. Binding strip at top edge ofinterlining positioned more:han 1/8 inch beyond top edge>f piping on outer ply of:ollar.

-1.Binding strip at top edge ofinterlining irregular in width,affecting appearance; or not?xposed beyond top edge onouter ply of collar.

>. Collar irregular in width by1/4 inch or more.

?. Front finished ends ofcollar uneven in width by 3/16inch or more.

3. Not aligned, causing anoticeable bulge or twist onfronts when buttoned, affectingappearance.

a. Left front at corner shorterthan right front at bottom by:

- more than 1/8 inch but notno”rethan 1/4 inch.


b. Left front at corner longerthan right front by:

- more than 1/4 inch but notmore than 3/8 inch.


c. Right front at cornerexposed beyond edge of leftfront by more than 1/8 inch.

a. Improperly joined or set,causing shoulder or back totwist.

a. Not completely caught inarmhole tacking.

Classification

Iajor Minor ●

118

119

120

14

A

254

255

256

257

258

259

260

B

327

62


MIL-DTL-82156D(MC)

eExamine

Shoulder pads(cent’d)

Shoulder straps[constructionand setting)

9

Defects

b. Misplaced not serving theintended purpose; i.e., too farback or too far forward.

c. One or both pads omitted.

a. Misplaced; i.e., one strapfurther forward or back fromposition of other strap,affecting appearance.

b. Misplaced; so that it willnot lie flat when buttoned,causing bulge or twist onstrap.

c. Poorly shaped.

d. Shoulder seam exposed beyondback edge of shoulder strap(except rounded end).

e. Width of shoulder strap atarmhole seam (including piping)less than 2-1/8 inches or morethan 2-5/8 inches.

f. Width of shoulder strapacross center of buttonholeeyelet (including piping) lessthan 1-1/2 inches or more than2 inches.

9= Rounded end of shoulderstrap positioned less than 1/4inch or more than 3/8 inch fromcollar edge.

h. Piping irregular in width,affecting appearance.

i. Upper side of strap full ortwisted, affecting appearance.

j. Back edge of strap less than1/4 inch or more than 1/2 inchfrom shoulder seam at armhole.

Classification

lajoK

15

MinorA

K

262

263

264

265

266

267

B

328

329

330

331

63


MIL-DTL-82156D(MC)

Examine

Shoulder strapbuttonhole andbutton

Armholes(construction)

Sleeves .

Defects

3. Button not aligned withwttonhole, causing a bulge ortwist on strap or puckers onshoulders, affectingAppearance.

b. Buttons not uniformly set bynore than 1/4 inch.

c. Buttonhole 1/4 inch or moreoff center.

d. Buttonhole from outer edgeof piping at the collar end ofthe strap:

- less than 5/8 inch but notless than 1/2 inch, or morethan 3/4 inch.

- less than 1/2 inch.

a. Badly stretched, affectingappearance.

b. Taped too.tight, causingpuckering around armhole seam,affecting appearance.

c. Crooked seam, affectingappearance.

d. Tape stitching exposed andvisible to outside surface.

e. Sleeve-head pads notcompletely tacked.to armholes;or misplaced, not servingintended purpose.

f. One or both sleeve-head pad.iomitted.

a. Setting and hang:

1. Sleeve fullnessmisplaced, affectingappearance.

classification

ajor Minor ●A B

16

17

268

269

270

271

272

273

274

275

332

333

64


e Examine

Sleeves(cent’d)

MIL-DTL-82156D(MC)

Defects

2. Backarm seam of sleevenot matching side back seam by:

- more than 1/4 inch butnot more than 1/2 inch.


3. Hang of sleeves on thesame coat in opposite directionby more than 2 inches.

4. Sleeve tight in armholei.e., roll effect not present

b. Sleeve lining:

1. Twisted, tight, or shor’causing bulge, twist, or

,

puckering on outside of sleeve.

2. Sleeve lining too long,causing lining to sag at bottommore than 1/2 inch.

3. Sleeve lining seams outof alignment more than 3/4 inchwith sleeve seams at armhole orat bottom of sleeve.

4. Cut dart on lining undersleeve omitted.

5. One or both lining dartsnot pressed flat.

c. Construction of sleeves:

1. Wigan twisted, tight orpleated, causing ridges orpuckering on outside of bottomof sleeves, affectingappearance.

2. Tacking on bottom turnupto wigan omitted or insecure.

3. Sleeve bottom edge unevenby more than 1/4 inch.

4. Tacking on one or bothsleeve lining seams to sleeveseams omitted, or insecure.

65

Classification

ajor

121

18

MinorA

—

276

277

278

279

280

B

334

335

336

337

338

339


MIL-DTL-82156D (MC)

Examine

Sleeves(cent’d)

Defects

5. Bottom edge of sleevelining turnup less than 1 inch”sr more than 1-1/2 inches upfrom bottom edge of sleeve.

6. Cut dart on wool undersleeve omitted.

7. One or both wool sleevedarts not pressed open, smoothand flat.

d. Ornamental sleeve pieces:

1. Piping irregular,affecting appearance.

2. Ornamental piece stitchedto sleeve too full or twisted,affecting appearance.

3. Length of ornamentalpiece (including piping) lessthan 5-5/8 inches or more than6-3/8 inches.

4. Width at top and bottompoints (including piping) lessthan 2-1/8 inches or more than2-7/8 inches.

5. Width at center point(includina DiDina) less than2-3/8 inc~e~ ~r ;ore than 3-1/8inches.

6. Poorly shaped,appearance.

7. Set on crookedaffecting appearance

affecting

YI

8. Misplaced; i.e., onepiece further forward or backfrom position of other piece,affecting appearance.

9. Bottom edge nothorizontal with bottom edge ofsleeve by more than 1/8 inch.

ajox

classification

Minor aAB

—

281

282

283

284

285

286

287

288

28$

29C

40

41

66


@ Examine

Sleeves(cent’d)

Body (outside)

MIL-DTL-82156D(MC)

Defects

10. Ornamental piecestitched to sleeve with pointedends toward forearm seam ofsleeve.

e. Position of buttons onornamental pieces (measurementsmade from center of button):

1. Front top and bottomedges (including piped edges):

- less than 3/4 inch butnot less than l/2 inch.

- more than 1 inch butnot more than 1-1/4 inches.

- less than 1/2 inch ormore than 1-1/4 inches.

2. Top or bottom button fromscalloped edge (including pipededge) :

- less than 5/8 inchnot less than 3/8 inch.

- more than 7/8 inchnot more than 1-1/8 inches

- less than 3/8 inchmore than 1-1/8 inches.

3. Center button from

but

but

or

pointed edge (including pipededge) :

- less than 1/8 inch butnot less than 5/8 inch.

- more than 1-1/8 inchesbut not more than 1-3/8 inches.

- less than 5/8 inch ormore than 1-3/8 inches.

4. Center button not in linewith pointed edge by more than1/4 inch.

a. Fitting of body liningstight, short, or twisted,causing fullness or twist onoutside of coat, affectingappearance.

Iajor

122

19

MinorA B

291

292

293

294

342

343

344

345

346

347

67


Examine

Body (outside)(cent’d)

Chest darts

Waist darts

MIL-DTL-82156D(MC)

Defects

>. Fitting of frontinterlining:

1. Tight, short, or twisted,causing fullness or twist onoutside of coat, affectingappearance.

2. Too full, causing coatfront to have a wavyappearance.

a. One or both omitted.

b. End of one or both darts notproperly tapered, causing bulgeof fullness, affectingappearance.

c. Equal length of darts notuniform by 1/4 inch or more.

d. Cut edges of dart not turnedtowards armhole.

e. Not pressed smooth and flat.


b.’Top or lower end of one orboth darts not properlytapered, causing bulge orfullness, affecting appearance.

c. Equal length of darts notuniform in length by 1/4 inchor more.

d. Alignment of both waistdarts:

- top or bottom end out ofhorizontal alignment by 1/4inch or more.

e. Folded edge not pressedtoward side seam.

f. Not pressed smooth and flat.

9. Top or lower end,of one orboth darts rIOt SeCUrelY

backstitched.

68 .

classification

Minor ●ajor

20

21

123

124

A B

295

296

297

298

299

348

349

●

350

351

352


MIL-DTL-82156D(MC)

e Examine

Front andbottom edges

Front facings

Back side panelseams

Belt loops(constructionand position)

Defects

a. Front edges stretched,affecting appearance.

b. Piping set on tight, causingpuckering on front, affectingappearance.

c. Front or bottom pipingirregular, affectingappearance.

d. Bottom edge stretching,puckered, or uneven, affectingappearance.

e. Bottom corner or left frontpoorly shaped, affectingappearance.

f. Left front rolling outwardbelow bottom button.

9. Front edge irregular,affecting appearance.

h. Piping tight on front orbottom edge, causing puckeringoutside of coat, affectingappearance.

i. Left front not dressed asspecified.

a. Short, tight or twisted,causing fullness or twists onfronts, affecting appearance.

a. Curved panel seam on back ofcoat stretched or distorted,affecting appearance.

a. Poorly shaped or not ofuniform shape, affectingappearance.

b. Bottom end of one or bothloops out of horizontalalignment with bottom frontbuttonhole by:

more than 3/4 inch belowor more than 3/8 inch above.

69

Classification

,ajor

22

23

MinorA

q

02a

03a

04a

05a

O6a

07a

08a

09a

10a

B

353


MIL-DTL-82156D(MC)

Examine

Belt loops(constructionand position)(cent’d)

Belt loopbuttonhole andbutton(position andbuttonholeattachment )

Openings cutfor belt loopbuttons

Defects

:. Pointed end of one or bothloops not toward top of coat.

i. One or both not stitched on:he side seam.

:. One or both not verticallystraight; i.e., set on anangle, affecting appearance.

f. Alignment of both loops:- top or bottom end out of

horizontal alignment by morethan 1/4 inch.

~. One or more edges notproperly forced out; i.e.,having a fold or lip of 1/8inch or more.

h. Bottom of loop not centeredon side seam by more than 1/4inch.

a. Button not aligned withbuttonhole, causing a bulge ortwist on loop or puckers oncoat, affecting appearance.

b. Buttons not uniformly set bymore than 1/4 inch.

c. Buttonhole 1/4 inch or moreoff center.

d. Buttonhole less than 1/2inch or more than 3/4 inch frompointed end of loop.

e. Reinforcement disc beneathone or both buttons omitted.


b. Opening not constructedvertically.

c. One or more ends on one orboth openings not securelytacked.

125

A

lli

12i

classification

ajor Minor ●

!15

!16a

?17a

B

354

355

356

357

70


Examine

Openings cutfor belt loopbuttons(cent’d)

Frontbuttonholes(position)

@Front eyelets(position)

Front buttons(position)

MIL-DTL-82156D(MC)

Defects

d. Opening constructed throughbody lining.

e. Misplaced; i.e., more than1/4 inch from marks indicatedby patterns, or not positionedon side seam.

a. Position from front edge(including piped edge) lessthan 3/8 inch or more than 7/8inch.

b. More than 1/4 from equalspacing.

c. Top or bottom buttonholepositioned more than 1/2 inchfrom pattern marks.

d. Unevenly spaced from frontedge by more than 3/16 inch.

a. Center of top eyelet not invertical alignment with rightend of collar by 1/4 inch ormore.

b. Lower eyelets not invertical alignment with topeyelet by 1/4 inch or more.

c. More than 1/4 inch fromequal spacing.

a. Out of vertical alignment by1/4 inch or more.

Classification

Iajoz

126

MinorA B

71


MIL-DTL-82156D(MC)

4.4.2.4. Detailed defects (inside of coat~. Detailed defects on

inside of coat shall be classified as follows:

Examine I Defects

1

Right front a. Front raw edges not stitchedeyelet cover together prior to seaming to right

Labels

Hanger

facing.

b. Upper or lower seamed edge nothand felled to facing.

c. Upper or lower seam edge notsecurely hand stitched to facing.

d. Omitted.

e. Front ‘corner of eyelet coverexposed beyond upper edge of rightfront.

f. Front edge of cover positionedless than 1/4 inch or more than3/4 inch in from front edge ofright front.

a. Any required label missing,incorrect, or illegible; or sizelabel not securely caught institching.

b. Identification label notstitched on all four sides.

c. Bottom edge of identificationlabel less than 3 inches or morethan 5 inches from bottom finishecedge of coat.

d. Identification label notstitched to outside of rightfacing.

a. Hanger omitted or ends notsecurely stitched.

b. Less than 1-7/8 inches or morethan 2-1/8 inches long measuredalong the lower edge of the colla:lining.

classification

ajox

127

128

129

MinorA—?9a

30a

31a

32a

33a

B

358

359

360

361

72


MIL-DTL-82156D(MC)

eExamine

Hanger(cent’d)

Front facings

Body linings

Defects

c. Hanger not stitched to neck ofcoat prior to seaming collar toneck of coat.

d. Finished width less than 1/4inch or more than 3/8 inch wide.

a. Fullness or pleats on facingsbetween eyelets; buttonholes; orbetween front edgebuttonholes.

b. Tacking on backboth interlinings:

- omitted.

and eyelet or

edge to one or

- insecure or incomplete for adistance of more than 4-1/2 inchesbelow shoulder seams, or more tharfour inches above bottom edge ofcoat.

c. Felling at bottom or back edgeof front facings omitted orinsecure on one or both facings.

d. Felling along folded edge ofone or both facings at collarnotch omitted or insecure.

a. Excessive puckering or pleated.

b. Twisted, not affectingsmoothness on outside of coat.

c. One or both chest pleats on “shoulder omitted.

d. Folded edge of one or bothchest pleats facing front edge ofcoat.

e. Pleatlining.

f. Pleatdepth at

omitted at center of bat)

less than 1/2 inch incenter of back lining.

9. Bottom hem less than 5/8 inchor more than 7/8 inch wide.

73

classification

ajol MinorA B

34a

’35E

36:

!37i

!38~

!39:

!40:

362

363

364

365

366

367

368


MIL-DTL-82156D(MC)

Examine

Body linings(cent’d)

Lining -securingstraps

Serge oroveredgestitching

Serge or

overedgestitching(lining joinecseams)

Underarmshields

Defects

1. Lining too long; i.e., exposed~eyond bottom edge of coat.

L. Facing-lining seam, side seams,and side back seams not towardsoack or not pressed smooth andflat.

j. Waist darts not towards theside seams or not pressed smoothand flat.

3. One or both omitted orinsecure.

b. Less than 1/4 inch or more tha!3/8 inch wide.

c. One or both positioned morethan 1 “inch from side seam.

d. End of one or both straps notfinished between the piping at thibottom edge of the coat and theside seam allowance.

e. One or both not folded andstitched across width.

f. One or both not properlyattached to the lining hem o“rcoat; causing twist or distortionto either the lining or the coat.

9. One or both exposed beyondbottom edge of the coat.

a. Omitted where specified on oneor more raw edges for seamsjoining fronts and back.

a. Omitted where specified on oneor more seams.


b. Not two-piece liningconstruction.

lassificationm

ajor MinorA B

41a

42a

43a

442

!45;

!46:

!47i

?48~

?49i

?50i

369

370

371

●372

74


e Examine

Inside ofarmhole

Collar liningextensionpiece

Collar “liningand eyeletcovers

MIL-DTL-82156D(MC)

classification

Defects

c. Tacking on one or both shields,along side or bottom edge to bodylining, omitted or insecure.

d. Top edge not caught in armholetacking or stitching when tackedby hand.

e. Puckered, pleated, or twisted.

f. One or both shields misplaced,not serving intended purpose.

a. Backstitching at armpit ofarmhole, from backarm seam ofsleeve to front edge of shieldomitted.

a. Omitted.

b. Extended less than 1/2 inch ormore than 1 inch beyond left endof collar.

c. Felling omitted or insecure atend or top edges.

d. Stitching at top, front andbottom edges, or across width ofcollar tab (forming box stitch)omitted.

a. Ends of collar lining notsecurely tacked.

b. One or both eyelet coversomitted.

c. One or both eyelet covers notcovering eyelet.

d. Width of collar eyelet lessthan 1-5/8 inches or more than1-7/8 inches.

,ajo]

130

MinorA B

“51e

52?

53;

’54:

’55:

373

374

375

376

377

378

379

75


MIL-DTL-82156D(MC)

Classification

Examine Defects Major Minor ●AB

Collar lining e. Felling on front edge and along 256aand eyelet lower corner of one or both eyeletcovers covers omitted.(cent’d)

f. Felling along lower corners of 380one or both eyelet coversextending for a distance of morethan 3/4 inch.

4.4.2.5. Finished measurements. Any measurement deviating fromthe nominal dimensions and tolerance specified in Table II shallbe classified as a size measurement defect. Sleeve lengthsuneven by more than 1/2 inch shall be scored as a sizemeasurement defect.

4.5. ~.

4.5.1 Metal composition. Chemical composition shall bedetermined in accordance with ASTM E1282.

4.5.2 Test for tackiness. At room temperature (60”F to 80”F), e

press a piece of tissue paper against the lacquered surface for30 seconds, using any pressure capable of being exerted by thethumb and two fingers. The tissue shall not adhere to thelacquered surface, but shall fall free when pressure is released.

5. PACKAGING

5.1. Packaqing. For acquisition purposes, the packagingrequirements shall be as specified in the contract or order (see6.2). When actual packaging of material is to be performed byDepartment of Defense (DoD) personnel, these personnel need tocontact the responsible packaging activity to ascertain requisitepackaging requirements. Packaging requirements are maintained bythe Inventory Control Point’s packaging activity within theMilitary Department of Defense Agency, or within the MilitaryDepartment’s Systems Command. Packaging data retrieval isavailable from the managing Military Department’s or DefenseAgency’s automated packaging files, CD-ROM products, or bycontacting the responsible packaging activity.

76


MIL-DTL-82156D(MC)

49 6. NOTES

(This section contains information of a general orexplanatory nature that may be helpful, but is not mandatory.)

6.1. Intended use. The coat described herein is intended forweaz by enlisted male personnel of the U.S. Marine Corps Drum andBugle Corps (Drum Major).

6.2. Acquisition requirements. Acquisition documents mustspecify the following:

a. Title, number, and date of the specification.b. Issue of DoDISS to be cited in the solicitation, and if

required, the specific issue of individual documents referenced(see 2.2).

c. Packaging requirements (see 5.1).d. Whether first article is required (see 3.2).e. Number of coats in first article (see 3.2).

6.3. Standard sample. For information regarding the availability

@

of standard sample costs and standard shades specified, addressinquiry to the procuring activity issuing the invitation forbids.

6.4. Fiaures. Figures 1 through 6 are furnished for informationpurposes only. To the extent of any inconsistencies between thewritten specification and the figures, the written specificationwill govern.

6.5. Vinvl pipinq. Thielex Plastics Company has manufacturedvinyl piping meeting the requirements of 3.3.11.1.

6.6. Subiect term (keyword) listinq.

DressEnlistedMusic

77


MIL-DTL-82156D(MC)

6.7. Chanqes from Drevious issue. Marginal notations are notused in this revision to identify changes with respect to theprevious issue due to the extent of the changes.

Preparing Activity:Navy - MC

Project”No. 8405-N326

78


MIL-DTL-82156D(MC)

@

Figure 1. Coat, Man’s, Scarlet, Drumand Bugle Corps, MUSiCian

79


MIL-DTL-82156D (MC)

~ BIACKFlflNG

- ..-._-

BLACKPIPING

Figure 2. Coat, Man’s, Scarlet, Drumand Bugle Corps, Musician.

80


MIL-DTL-82156D(MC)

.@

SHOUIDERKE4T

LININGWFRON’IwELEl

IRICNl - INSIDEWEW

Figure 3. Coat, Man’s, Scarlet, Drumand Bugle Corps, Musician

81


MIL-DTL-82156D(MC)

u.oa-,


82


,

MIL-DTL-82156D(MC)


83


MIL-DTL-82156D(MC)

Figure 6. Coat, Man’s, Scarletrand Bugle Corps, Musician

Drum

84


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