I in the following - MIL-STD-188everyspec.com/MIL-SPECS/MIL-SPECS-MIL-C/download.php?spec=M… · MIL-C-82172A(MC) *3.3,14.3 COIOr and colorfastness. All thread shallbe scarlet,shadeW,

MIL-C-82172A(MC)

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MJLITARY SPECIFICATIONCOAT, MAN’S: SCARLET,

DRUM AND BUGLE CORPS: DRUM MAJOR

b- This specification is approvedthe Department of Defense.

*1.1 Scope. This specificationand bugle corps coats.

*102 Classification. The coatesizesas specified (see 6.2):

2 May 1974

SUPERSEDINGMIL-C-82172(MC)13 November 1967

for use by all Departments and Agencies of

covers requirements for scarlet wool drum

shall be of one type in the following

Schedules of sizes

(Short, Regular, Long, Extra Long)

1.3 Individual orders.order, this specificationof Section 3, Table I,maytailoring practices.

.?

34

3536373839404142 ..

4446 ,.

When the coat is custom tailored to an individualshall govern except that the detailed requirementsbe modified to the extent necessary-for good custom

-,2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS

+:4 *201 me fo~l~~ doc~nts of the issue in effect on date of invitation

for bids or request for proposal, form a part of the specification to theextent specified herein.

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Downloaded from http://www.everyspec.com

MIL-C-82172A(MC)

SPECIFICATIONS

FEDERAL

R-N-91V-T-276V-T-280V-T-301DDD-L-20

DDD-T-86

MILITARY

MIL-C-326MIL-C-368MIL-B-3461MIL-P-15064MIL-C-16375MIL-C-21115MIL-C-43718MIL-C-82114

STANDARDS

FEDERAL

- Naphthalene, Technical.- Thread, Cotton..- Thread, Cotton Gimp, Buttonhole.- Thread, Silk.- Label; For Clothing, Equipage And Tentage

(GeneralUse).- Tape, Textile, Cotton; General Purpose.@nbleach- #

ed, Bleached, Or Dyed).

?

FED-STD-151FED-STD-191FED-STD-751

- Cloth, Sileaia, Cotton.’- Cloth, Satin, Rayon And Cloth, Twill Rayon.

.

- Buttons, Insignia, Metal, Uniform And Cap.- Pads, Shoulder And Sleeve-Head.- Cloth, Wigan, Cotton.

Cloth, Tropical, Wool, Polyester/Wool.- Cloth, Twill, Polyester And Cotton.

Coat Front For Coats, Musicians.

MILITARY

MIL-STD-105

MIL-STD-129

,,

Metal, Test Method.Textile Test Methods.Stitch, Seam, And Stitching.

Sampling Procedures And Tables For InspectionBy Attributes.

Marking For Shipment And Storage.

1 (.Copie.s;.ofspecifications and standards required by suppliers tn.connection.w,ith specific,.pr,ocurementfunctions shoyld be Obtained.fromthe pr~?ufi%, ,:,actiyity or .as..directedby’t.hecontFactin8.officer*) .,., . . .

*2.2 Other publications. The “followingdocument fo~s a Part of’:thi~‘sP~Ci-fication to the extent specified herein.issue in

apply..,,. ........::?.~.,

, ““

effect on date of invitation for

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Unless otherwise indicated, the.

bids or requetitfor..proposalsh%ll

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I MIL-C-82172A(MC)

CU@HFICATION COMMITTEE, AGENTUNIFORMUniform Freight Classification Rules

I

(Application for copies should be addressed to the Uniform ClassificationCommittee, Room 1106, 222 South Riverside Plaza, Chicago, Illinois 60606.)

3. REQUIREMENTS

3.1 Samples. Samples are furnished solely for guidance and information tothe supplier (see 6.3). Variation from the specification may appear in the

●

sample, in which case the specification shall govern.

“f *3.2 First article. Unless otherwise specified (see 6.2), before productionis commenced, a first article consisting of the number of finished coats speci-fied by the procuring activity (see 6.2) shall be submitted or made availableto the contracting officer or his authorized representative for approval. Theapproval of the first article authorizes the commencement of production, butdoes not relieve the supplier of responsibility for compliance with all pro-visions of this specification. The first article shall be manufactured by thesupplier in the same facilities to be used for the manufacture of the produc-tion items.

3.3.Materials.

*3.3.1 Basic material. The basic material shall be cloth, wool, tropical,scarlet shade 2502 (see 6.3), 10.5 ounce conforming to type I, class 1 of

e MIL-C-21115.

*3.3.2 Lining. Thematerial for lining the coats and collar and for &kingthe underarm shields, ‘collareyelet covers, coat hanger and straps to se-cure the lining to the bottom edge of the coat shall be cloth; rayon twill,scarlet shade 2506 (see 6.3), conforming to class 1 of MIL-C-368.

.

*3.3.3 Silesia or polyester and cotton. The stays for the armhole andshoulder seams, reinforcement pieces for the collar eyelets, bindings for thelower edge of the collar and neck edge of the coat front interlining shall becut from cloth, cotton, silesia, 4.5 ounce conforming to type I of MIL-C-326,or cloth, polyester and cotton twill, conforming to MIL-C-43718, except therequirement for nonfibrous material and seam efficiency shall not apply.The silesia or polyester and cotton shall be khaki shade 3707 for the armholeand shoulder seam stays, the collar eyelet reinforcement pieces and thebinding for the neck edge of fron’t interlining and black for the binding forthe lower edge of the collar interlining.

*3.3.4 Collar interlining. The material for the interlining the collar shallm be cloth, cotton, buckram, double texture, laminated, starch finish, natural

color, conforming to the following requirements when tested as specified inSection 4, Table III.

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MIL-C-82172A(MC)

*3.3.4.1 Cotton buckram. The buckram shall be made of cotton of suitablestaple length and grade to meet the requirements of this specification,thoroughly cleaned, well carded, drawn and evenly spun.

3.3.4.2 Weave. The weave of the single plies of the cloth shall be fourharness; 2 up and 2 down herringbone twill, 20 ends right and 20 ends left.

3.3.4.3 Texture. The two plies of the cloth shall each have a minimumthread count per inch of 50 in the warp and 20 in the filling.

*3.3.4.4 Laminated cloth. The two plies of the cloth shall be thoroughlyadhered together with a synthetic resin type laminating material which shallnot cause any objectionable odor in the finished cloth. The laminated clothshall show no evidence of delamination after being subjected to the wet (dry)cleaning, accelerated aging, and perspiration tests as specified in Section 4, .Table III.

*3.3.4.4.1 Finish. The laminated cloth shall have a starch finish. Theoriginal stiffness of the finished cloth, and.the stiffness of the clothafter being subjected to the wet (dry) cleaning, accelerated aging, andperspiration tests shall conform to the following when tested as specifiedin Section 4, Table III.

Stiffness, inch-pound: Minimum Maximum- original 0.60 0.95-“after accelerated aging 0.70 0.95- after wet (dry) cleaning 0.50 0.85- after perspiration 0.50 0.85

*3.3.4.4.2 Weight. The weight of the finished laminated cloth shall be 21to 23 ounces per square yard (see Section 4P Table III).

*3.3.4.4.3 Breaking strength. The breaking strength of the finished lami-nated cloth shall be 100 pounds minimum in the warp direction and 80 pounds

I minimum in the filling direction, when tested as specified in Section 4,Table III. After being subjected to the accelerated aging test, the breakingstrength of the cloth shall be not less than the ortginal breaking strength

I when tested as specified in Section 4, Table 111.

3.3.5 Reinforcement discs. The reinforcement discs for buttons secured to—the back side seam, with ring toggle,shall be punched from the cloth, cotton,buckram specified in 3.3.4.1. The reinforcement discs shall be 7/8 inch indiameter with l/8-inch diameter hole at the center.

I

*3.3.’6’P~ddingfor collar. The material for padding ‘the’collarshall be ‘“suitable cotton felt, white , weigh’ing 4.25 to 4.75 ounces per square yard w

when tested”as specif’ieii”in’Section 4, Table’III, - ,.&.

*3.3.7 Coat fronts. The coat fronts shall conform to class 1 of MIL-c-82114.

*3.3.8 Shoulder pads. The shoulder pads shall conform to the requirementsof type 1, class 2j of MIL-P-15064.


MIL-C-82172A(MC)

3.3.9 Sleeve head pads. The sleeve pads shall conform to type IV of ‘MIL-P-15064. ~

3.3.101/4 inchment for

*3*3.11

Stay tape. The stay tape for armholes shall be cotton, unbleached,wide, conforming to type III, class 1 of DDD-T-86, except the require-nonfibrous material shall not apply.

Piping. The piping material shall be cloth, polyester-wool blend,

black 2607 (see 6.3), conforming to type III of MIL-C-21115, cut 5/8 to 3/4inch wide for piping the shoulder straps, collar and ornamental sleeve patchesand 1 inch wide for piping front and bottom edges of the coat.

*3.3.12 Binding. The binding for the collar interlining shall be cut 1wide from the following materials:

(a) For upper edge of collar Interlining,cloth,blend as specified in 3.3.11.

(b) For lower edge of collar interlining cloth,polyester and cotton as specified in 3.3.3.

3.3.13 Wigan. The material for reinforcing the bottom

polyester wool

cotton;’stiea&

inch

or

edge of the sleevesshall be cloth, cotton, wigan, 2.5 ounces confoming to type I of MIL-C-16375.

3.3,14 Thread.

*3.3.14.1 Silk thread. The silk thread shall conform to V-T-301 as follows,except the requirements for extractable material shall not apply:

Use Tvpe CQss Tic-o . PlvBartacks and all outside I A

seaming and stitching.Machine felling. oMaking buttonholes in coat. I B and F 3Hand felling; and hand sewing. III 3 c 2

*3.3.14.2 Cotton thread. The cotton thread shall confom to V-T-276 asfollows:

Use Type Ticket No. Ply

All inside seaming and stitching. IC2 A 3Serging and overedge stitching. Ul 70 2Machine tacking armholes and .sewing on buttons. 1B3 24 4

The thread for basting shall be good couuaercialgrade cotton.

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MIL-C-82172A(MC)

*3.3,14.3 COIOr and colorfastness. All thread shall be scarlet,shade W,cable No. 66040, except the cotton thread for basting and machine tacking m

armholes may be white, and the cotton thread for overedge stitching thepiping at bottom edge of coats shall be black. The colored threads.shallshow the following colorfastness when tested as specified in the applicable ‘thread specification.

Thread CoIor Wet (dry) Cleaning !!l#KCotton Scarlet Good ---

Silk Scarlet Fair FairSilk Black Good

.Good

3.3.15 ~. The buttonhole gimp shall be cotton, No. 8, soft or glazedfinish conforming to type I or II of V-T-280. The color of the gimp shall be ?

scarlet,shade W, cable No. 66040,and shall show good fastness to wet (dry)cleaning.

*3.3.16 Ornamental braid. The ornamental braid for the coat fronts shallconform to the following requirementsTable III:

when tested as specified in Se,ction 4,

Cover:- material (covering)

color of wire- metal wire (undercoating)- plating material- winding thread

Core (stuffer):- material- number of threads (rein)- ply of thread (rein)- color

Weavenumber of carrier (rein)endsfcarriersshapewidth (in), (tiin)weight/linear yd. (grains)

Metal content (%):- goldsilver- copper

Fastness to:- water- wet (dry) cleaning

metal threadlight goldsilver and coppergold2 ply white or yellow cotton thread

cotton thread (soft) “72gold

plain braided126-8 (total 79)tubular3/8 +1/16154.5

0.30.6Remainder (traces of nickel and zinc)

goodgood

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MIL-C-82172A(MC)

e *3.3.17 Buttons.

*3.3.17.1 Insignia buttons. The insignia buttons shall be metal, gold

plated, enlisted design, 27-line for shoulders, belt loops, and ornamental

sleeve patches and 40-line for fronts, conforming to type I, style 3, class

subclass 2 of MIL-B-3461.A,

*3.3.17.2 Ring toggles. Ring toggles for securing the 27-line buttons to

coat, belt loops and ornamental sleeve patches shall conform’to MIL-B-3461...

*3,3.18 Hooks and eYes* The hooks and eyes for closing the collar shall be

brass, black enameled finish, size No. 16 commercial type. All surfaces and

d edges of the hooks and eyes shall be clean, smooth, free from burrs, toolmarks, sharp edges, and roughness. The hook and eye shall be thoroughly and

completely lacquered with the best available quality of black japanned

lacquer. The dry lacquer film shall be continuous,, level, adherents freefrom lint, dust, or other foreign inclusions that may affect appearance orserviceability, and shall withstand the test for tackiness specified in

4.3.2.

*3.3.19fication

,. ,...

“Labels. Each coat shall have a combination personal-clothing identi-label.and a size label as.follows: The coat is intended to be dry.

cleaned and the labels shall showfastness..to(dry cle.jningi : ~~ ,

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*3.,3.19,.1Combination personal-clothing identification-label. ~ The combina-tion personal-clothing identification label sh.aU conf~ti”to’.type I, classes1 and”10 (combined) of DDD-L-20 except all-printing and the Space”between thelines of printing shall be minimum 10 point (approximately 1/8 inch). Thecontent and format shall be as follows:

.:.

.*3.3.19.2

DDD-L-20.

SERVICE NO. . r.,

COLLAR SIZE , : ~-NOMENCLATURE (item description) ,-,, .,

CONTRACT NO. DATE. .

NAME OF CONTRACTOR ...

wOOL PRODUCTS ACT INFORMATION. ~ ~~., ,. ~~~ .

,:.

Size label. The size label shall conform to type I, class 2 ofThe label shall consist of the numerical size designation specified

in 1.2 followed by the letters S, R, L, or XL for Short,”Regular; Long andw Extra Long, as shown by the following example: ,.,

40 RStock number ,.

,“,,.., ,,

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MIL-C-82172A(MC)

The stock number may be incorporated in the identification label instead of ●in the size label.

*3.4 Design. The coat shall be the U.S. Marine Corps design shown on Figures1 through 3, a,seven-button, single breasted, form-fitting, fully lined coat,having a one-piece front with gold braid, waist and chest darts,a four-piece back without a center vent, belt loop to button, ornamentedsleeve ends, shoulder straps to button, and a standup collar with hooks andeyes for front closure and with worked eyelet at each end for removablebranch of service insignia. The top and bottom edges of collar, front andbottom edges of coat, the top, bottom and scalloped back edges of ornamentalsleeve patches, and the edges of shoulder straps shall be piped with thematerial specified in 3.3.11.

*3.5 Patterns. Standard patterns will be furnished to the supplier by theGovernment. The standard patterns shall not be altered in anyway and shallbe used only as a guide for cutting the supplier’s working patterns. Thesupplier’s working patterns shall be identical to the standard pattern. Thestandard patterns shall provide 5/8-inch allowance for center back, 3/&inchallowance for side seame; and 3/8-inch allowanse for all other seams, exceptas otherwise specified in Table I. Standard patterns show size and are marked

and notched for proper cutting, placement and assembly of component parts.

*3.5.1 List of pattern parts. Coats shall be cut from the materials speci-fied herein in accordance with the pattern parts indicated below:

Itemr2.3.4*5*6.

7.8.

9*

10●

11.12.

13.

14.15●

16.17.18.19●

20.21.

Pattern nomenclatureMaterial basic: Cloth, wool, tropicalFrontFront facing, rightFront facing, leftSide backCenter backTop sleeveUnder sleeveCollar, outer ply

Shoulder-straps, top plyshoulder straps, under plyOrnamental sleeve patch, top plyOrnamental sleeve patch, under plyBelt loops

Cloth, rayon, lining

FrontSide backCenter backTop sleeveUnder sleeveCollar liningCollar eyelet coverUnderarm shield

No. ofcut parts

2112222

2

22222

22

222124

.

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Item Pattern nomenclature

cloth, cotton, buckram.22. Collar interlining

Cloth, cotton silesia or polyester cotton

23. Collar - Interlining

MIL-c-82172A(MC)

No. Ofcut parts

1

Cloth, cotton, wigan

24. Reinforcement (bottom edges of sleeves) 2.

Markers25. Sleeve turnup and sleeve ornament

3.6 Construction.

3.6.1 Manufacturing requirements. The coats shall be manufactured inaccordance with the operations and the stitch, seam, and stitching tYpesspecified in Table I.

3.6.1.1 Operations. The supplier is not required to follow the exact se-

quence of the operations as listed in Table I, but all operations specifiedshall be used to manufacture the coats.

3.6.1.2 Stitches, seams, and stitching. The stitch, se~m and stitchingtypes specified in Table I shall conform to FED-STD-751.” The number ofstitches per inch as specified in Table I indicates the minimum andmaximum number permitted. All overedge stitching shall be done on serging

machines with a knife attachment properly set to trim the raveled edgewithout cutting the material.

3.6.1.2.1 Thread breaks and ends of seams. End of all seams and stitching

(stitch type 301), except ends of a continuous line of stitching, when not

caught in other seams or stitchings, shall be backpacked not less than 1/4inch. The ends of a continuous line of stitching shall be overlapped notless than 1/2 inch. Thread breaks shall be secured back of the break not

less than 1/2 inch.

3.6.1.3 Shade marking. The component parts of the coat, cut from one Piece

of wool and lining materials, including pairs of sleeve lininzs and underarmshields when cut from ends, shall be shade marked to insure a uniform shadeand size throughout the garment. Any method of shade marking may be used

except:

(a) Corrosive metal fastening devices.(b) Sew-on shade tickets.(c) Adhesive type tickets which show discoloration and the use

of an adhesive mass which adheres to the material upon removal of the tickets.

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MIL-c-82172A(MC)

TA8LE I MANUFACTURING REQUIREMENTS

OPNNO.

1. =. -

Cut coats in strict accord-ance with patterns furnished bythe Government.

b“. Cut all materials in thedirection of the warp as in-dicated by directional lineson the patterns.

c. Cut all<scarlet wool partsfrom one piece of basic mate-rial, except the’followingparts may be cut from ends:under ply of shoulder straps,and under ply of ornamentalsleeve patch. Parts cut fromends shall harmonize with theshade of the coat.

/

d. Cut the body and collarlinings, the collar eyeletcovers and the top ply of theunderarm shields from one pieceof rayon lining material. Allother rayon lining parts maybe cut from ends.. When pairsof sleeve linings are cut fromends,the shade of the sleevelinings shall match. Cut -thestrips for coat hanger andlining securing straps 1-118inches wide.

e. Cut cotton silesia or,poly-ester and cotton stays for

armhole and shoulder seams onthe bias,3/4 inch wide and 4~1/4 inches long. Cut cottonsilesia or polyester and cottonfor binding the neck edge of

the coat front interlining onthe bias, 3/4 inch wide andapproximately 5 inches long.Cut the silesia or polyesterand cotton for interliningcollar on the straight inaccordance with patternfurnished.

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-...- . ........“m......”m“.-.,nmnm-*,-”“lW5LIi L MANUJ!ALIUKLNLX lWL/UJ.NACIANL=I

seam or? stitches TMRIEADOPN OPERATION stitch Sti%cb’g PQT BobbinNO. Type TypQ Inch Needle

t.o~~er

1. Cutting. (cent’d).,.

f. Cut the cotton buckram forinterlining the collar on thestraight in accordance withthe pattern furnished.

.

g. Cut the cotton felt forpadding the collar 1-114 incheswide and of sufficient length .,

to fold over the ends of the .’

interlining for each size collar , ,..,,

h. Cut the piping material

(see 3.3.11) for piping the,,

front and bottom edges of coats,edges of shoulder straps~collar, and ornamental sleeve

,.

patches on the straight. Thepiping shall be cut 5/8 co 3/4 ~inch wide for shoulder strapsp

.;.

collar9 and ornamental sleeve1 patches, and 1 inch tide for ‘

, ,.J ,. <

front and bottom edges of coat.. .,.

Cut the applicable binding -..’

material (see 3.3.12) for the .,.,.+

top and bottom edges of thecollar interlining on the ...

Ih straight, 1-1]8 inches wide. .

.,,

i. Cut th@ wtgan foT rein-forcing the bottom of sleeves ~on the bias in accordance with ; ,..pattern. ~

...., .4 :.,

~. Punch @e reinforcement .. .. .:, ,.:

dkcs for kuttons setiuredto ; ..:. -,/.,.. ..‘, ~:.. ,,,;

the side .s+amfrom cloth9 cotto,$buckrsm. we reinforcement ~ : )

.,:,disc shall;be:.7./Bin+ diameter’ .,.>:;, “’-”” ‘: ‘ -“-’ .- ;,,:.:

wtth a U8-inch diamqer hole ‘ >:=,,....?’. .,.,:j.’... ,,:.,a~tthe center.

f,. ,:6,: ,;.., 4“;

: ..<,>, . ,.,,,,., ~.. -,. :

2. Fteplacemen&of dsmag~d parts. ~: .,.,,..>,,,,.,,.;;;,;,. .:,J..:... ........ ..’..,, i

if ;

a. Replac+ at time ~f cutting ~1

,. ,,.‘- ,...!’-’.”‘:”,.. ,., ,..

@ parts of coat co~taintng j .!., ,,,.:,,. . ,:hMes, ser$ously weakening de- ;

i$

f~cts such[.assmsshess mulkipl~ :H.i“z!::..> ,,:.: -< i;,,:<......: .!,... :i

fZoats9 lofse or wea~ening ~ .,. :; .,.,., .’: :.;-,- .:.i ,.:,:,:,.,.>, ~i

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MIL-c-82172A(HC)

TART17 T MA NTTUArTTTRINC RF.f)TITRF.MF.NTS.rl.u Mu A. *m...=.” .”..-..” --y-- .--—----

Sesxt or Stitches THREAD

OPN OPERATION Stitch Stitcll’g Par Bobbin

NO. Type Type Inch NeedleLo~~er

2. Replacement of damaged parts.(cent’d)

slubs, etc., expected to develop

into holes, shade bars and dyestreaks or unsightly slubs,etc., affecting appearance.

b. Replace any part damagedduring the manufacturing pro-cess by needle chews which may

be expected to develoholes, scissor or kni~eiz~:s,tears, holes, mends or burns inthe material, affectingappearance.

3. Shade marking.

a. Mark or ticket (see 3.6.1.3)all component parts cut fromone piece of basic and liningmaterials, and pairs of sleevelinings when cut ’from ends, toinsure uniform shade and sizethroughout the coat.

b. Tne use of tickets with any

metal fastening devices isprohibited on the rayon lining.

4. _&ke coat hanger and liningsecuring straps._—

Finishedappearance. The coathanger and lining securingstraps shall finish 1/4 to 3/8inch wi’de.

a. Fold the l-118-inch-wide 301 EFp-1 12-16 A Astrip of lining materialinhalf lengthwise.. Turn .theedges to the inside and seam1/16 inch from the turnededges

b. Cut the coat hanger 3-3/431/4 incheslong.’

C. Cut the”llning securing~ straps 4-1/2 ~1/4 inches long.

F.

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;IIL-c-82172A(NC)

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5.

6.

7.

TAELE I MANUFACTURING REQUIP&WENTS

OPERATION

Make collar eyelet covers.

Finished appearance. The collaxeyelet coversshall finish l-3/~+1/8 inches wide.—

a. Turn under the side edgesof the collar eyelet coversand stitch 1/16 to 1/8 inch frox

the folded edges, catching theturned under portions in thestitching.

b. Fold each cover in half

across the width and seam 1/16to 118 inch from the foldedside edges.

Make underarm shields.———

Finished appearance. Theshields shall finish smooth andflat without puckers, pleats,gathers or other distortions.

a. Position the two plies ofmaterial for the underarmshields with edges even. Seam

the two plies together alongthe curved side and bottomedges 3/8 inch from the edges.

b. Turn the shield right side

out, working out the seamededges completely.,

c. Press the shields smoothand flat with a heated pressinliron or pressing machine.

Make belt 1-.

Finished appearance. The’beltloops shd”l be unifoim in

appearance and shall finishsmooth and flat withoutpuckers, pleats, gathers orother distortions. Thebuttonholes shall be clean cut

ltitchType

301

301

301

)

aim or

titch’g~e

EFa-1(eachsideedge)

SSa-1

titchesPerInch

12-16

12-16

12-16

THRE

eeci1e

A

A

A

Dbbinorooper

A

A

A

r. “.

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PIIL-c-8”2172A(Mc)

“OPNNo:

TABLE I MA

OPERATION

Make belt loops. (cent’d)

well made, well worked overgimp to fit a 27-line insigniabutton. The gimp and ~threadshall be pulled through to theunderside of the loops. Thepurling of the ”buttonholesshalbeen the outside.

a. Fold the belt loops in halflengthwise face to face formingtwo plies.

b. Seam the two plies togethe~

along the side and pointed edge3/16 inch f~om the raw edges.

c., Trim corners and pointfor proper turning. :urn loopsworking out!the point and seame

edges completely.

d., Edgestitch the loops uni-formly 1/16 to lj8 inch fromfolded.andseamed edges. ,.

e. Make a horizontal;eyelet-erid,square-bar type button-

hole, cut 4/4 inch long, ineach loop n@dway between theback and front edges and withthe inside ~edgeof the eyelet-end of buttonhole to ;finish548 inch from pointed~end oflQop. :

~f; Secure& bartack the endof the buttonhole, c~tchingt~e ends o~ the gimp ~ndthread in tihebartac~. Trim

the ends of the gimp ~andthread. j ~

!?ACTURINGREQUIREMENTS

301

301

But-ton-hole

Bar-tack

stitchesPmInch

DBobbin

Lo&

ALk),

ALk)

,,F

Lk),

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8.

TABLE I MAN

Hake shoulder straps.

Finished appearance. Theshoulder straps shall be uni-form in appearance and shallfinish smooth and flat withouttwists, gathers, puckers, pleatsor other distortions. Thepiping shall be evenly workedout and shall extend uniformlyl/8 inch beyond the seamededges of the shoulder strap.The buttonholes shall be clean-Cut, well made, well worked eve:

gimp to fit a 27-line insigniabutton. The girnpand threadshall be pulled through to theunderside of the straps. The

purling of the buttotiole shallbe on the outside.

a. The shoulder straps shallbe made of two plies of basicmaterial piped with a 5/8-to 3/4-inch-wide strip ofpiping material specified in3.3.11.

b. Turn under one edge of the

piping 5/16 inch and stitchthrough all plies 1/16 inchfrom the turned raw edge.

c. Position the right side ofthe top ply of the shoulderstrap on the hemmed piping withthe raw edges of shoulder strapin line with the piping stitch-ing line.

d. Stitch shoulder strap to

piping along the back, frontand collar end 118 inch fromthe inner edge of piping.

e. Trim and notch piping inaccordance with good msnufac-tuming practice in order toprevent pulling and to elimi-nate gathers and bulges aroundthe collar”end.

~ACTURl

;titchType

301

301

-

15

: REQUIRI

;eam or

;titch”gType

EFa-1

-

NTs

Itntches

PawInch

12-16

10-16

-

mm

Ieedle

A

A(f

I

,obbincm

,ooper

A

A

lk) 0

1,


MIL-C-82172A(MC)

TABLE I MANUFACTURING REQUIREMENTS

Seam or Stitches THREADOPN OPERATION : Stitch Stitch’g Per BobbinNO. Type Type Inch Needle or

Looper

8. Make shoulderstraps. (cent’d)

f. Position the top ply on theunderply face to face, with theo“uteredge of piping and rawedge of the underply even andback notches matching.

g. Stitch along the back, 301 SSk-1 lo-i6 ,A Afront, and collarend through (a) (Silk)all plies 3116 inch from the (with-inner raw edge of piping. Trim outany excessmaterialif necessary. cord)

h. Turn the straps,working out

the piped edges completely.

i. Topstitch the straps uni- 301 SSk-1 12-16 A Aformly 3/16 inch from the folded (b) (Silk)edge .of the piping. (with-

outcord)

and topstitched

j. Press the shoulder strapssmooth and flat with a heatedpressing iron or pressing ma-chine.

k. Make a horizontal, eyelet- But- 60 per B Fend, square bar type buttonhole! ton- Button- (silk)‘cut3/4 inch long, in each hole holestrap, midway between the back not

and front edges and with the includinginside edge of the eyelet-end bartackof the buttonhole to finish5/8 inch from outer edge ofpiping at the collar end ofstrap.

o1. Securely bartack the end Bar- 21 per’ A

of the buttonhole catching the tack bartack (s:.lkj A

ends of the gimp and thread inthe bartack. Trim the ends ofthe gimp and thread.

.. .

,“

,...

16


NIL-C-82172A(MC)

I

I

I

I

t


OPN I OPERATIONNO.

19. Make ornamental sleeve patches.

Finished appearance. Theornamental sleeve patch shall buniform in appearance and shallfinish smooth and flat with-out twists, gathers, pleats~puckers or other distortions.The piping shall be evenlyworked out and shall extend uniformly 1/8 inch beyond theseamed edges of the sleevepatch. The eyelets shall bewell worked with the purling onthe outside of the sleeve patchand shall finish with a l/8-to3116-inch diameter opening.

a. The ornamental sleeve patchshall be made of two plies ofbasic material piped with a3/4-inch-wide strip of thepiping material specified in3.3.11. ,

b. Turn under one edge of thepiping 5/16 inch and stitchthrough all plies 1116 inchfrom the turned raw edge.

c. Position the right side ofthe top ply of sleeve patch onthe hemmed piping, with the rawedges of the sleeve patch inline with the piping stitchingline.

d. Join sleeve patch to pipingalong the top bottom andscalloped edge 1/8 inch fromthe inner edge of piping.

I e. Trim andnotch the outer

Iedge of piping alongthescalloped edge in order toprevent pulling and bulges onthe edges.

stitchType

301

301

SeaRIorStitch’gType

EFa-1

StitchesPerInch

.,.

12-16

12-16

THREAD

+

Bobbin

Needle orLooper

.

A A

A A(s:.lk)

r17


I

I

MIL-C-82172A(MC)

TARTJT’T MANTI’ACTWRTNC RROUI-TS,. ., -. —-- - ----------------- -_x-_.—-----

.. Seam or~pN ‘“ Stitches IHREAD

OPERATION Stitch Stitch’g Per : Bobbin:NO. Type TyplD Inch Needle “or‘

Looper

9. Make ornamental sleeve patches.(cent’d) ,.

f. Position the top ply ofsleeve patch on the underply,face to face, with the outeredge of piping and raw edge

of the underply even. ,.

g. Stitch along the top, 301 SSk-1 12-16 A ‘Abottom and scalloped edge (a)” (s:.Ik)through all plies 3/16 inch (with-from the inner raw edge of outpiping. Trim any excess mate- cord)rial if necessary.

h. Turn the sleeve patches,working out the pipingcompletely and forming smoothcorners and point at the scal-loped side edge.

i. Topstitch the sleeve patch- 301 SSk-1 12-16 A Aes uniformly 3116 inch from the” (b) (s:.lk)folded edge of the piping. (with-

out..3. Press the sleeve patches cordsmooth and-flat with a heated andpressing i+on or pressing top-machine. : stitched

k. Mark each sleeve patch, as.,

indicated by marks on pattern,f6r the location of threeeyelets.

i.,.

.1*..Make one eyelet at each Eye- 22 per A Amark through all plies of the let eyelet (s:.lk)

sleeve patches for attachinginsignia button.

10. Stitch and press dart inunder sleeves.

a? Fold the under sleeve, 301 SSa-1 12-16 A ,Amatching the cut edges of the (cut edges)sleeve darts. Stitch the en- Osf-1tire length of the dart 1/4 (foldedinch from the cut edges of the edge)

armhole and taper the line ofstitching to zero at the lowerfolded edges.

18

L_-


MIL-c-8217ZA(MC)

TAR117 T MAN1~ACTl;RTNGRECNJIREMENTS

I

I

I

,@

,9’

*..” ”.., . --------------- .— -—>–

Seam or Stitches THREAD

OPN OPERATION Stitch Stitch’g Per Bobbin

NO. Type we Inch NeedleLo~~er

10. Stitch and press dart in under____._—.sleeves.(cent’d)

b. ‘L’urnthe cut edges of thedart toward the forearm edgeand press the entire”dartsmooth and flat with a heatedpressing iron.

11. Seam sleeves at forearm.-.——- .——-— -----

Finished appearance. The fore-arm seam shall finish smoothand flat without twists,gathers, puckers or pleats andshall start and finish evenly.

Position the top sleeve 301 SSbd-1 12-16 A Aa.with upper forearm edge in line and

with the notch in the armhole SSa-1

edge of under sleeve and withthe notches in the lower fore-arm edge of top and undersleeve matching. Seam top and

under sleeves together 3/8 inchfrom forearm edge of top sleeve,

o

forming a tapered outlet on theunder sleeve.

b. Spread open the seam and

press flat with a heated press-ing iron.

c. Mark sleeve end for turn-up and mark the top sleeve forpositioning the ornamentalsleeve patch with patternmarker.

12. Baste wigan reinf~rcement tosleeve.

a. Position the sleeve on thewigan reinforcement piece withmarks and notches matching.

b. Baste sleeve and wigan Hand

piece together at the mark forthe bottom turnupo 1::

,

19


MIL-c-82172A(MC)

‘TABLE I MANUFACTURING REQUIREMENTS

SessIor Stitches THREADOPN OPERATION Stitch stitch’g Per Bobbin

NO. Type Type Inch NeedleLo;~er

12. Baste wigan reinforcement to—.sleeve. (cent’d)

c. Tack the sleeve to the 101 8-12 A A

reinforcement piece along theforearm seam allowance, and 3:: 8-12 A’ Aalong the backarm edges of thetop and under sleeve.

13. Join ornamental sleeve patchesto sleeves.

Finished appearance. Theornamental sleeve patch shall bcuniformly stitched to the topsleeve without twists, gathers,puckers, pleats, or rawedges. The folded front edge

of the patch shall not betopstitched. The position ofthe ornamental sleeve patchshall be as shown in Figure 4.The scalloped edge of sleevepatch shall be stitched to thesleeve at the corners andpoint only in order to facili-tate removal of insigniabuttons when pressing coat.

a. Mark the ornamental sleevepatch on the under ply 1/4 inchfrom the r’awedge. Positionthe sleeve patch on the sleevewith marks matchi’ngand withbottom edge of sleeve patch .,

even with mark for bottomturnupof sleeve.

.

b. Seam the sleeve patch to 301 LSa-1 12-16 A A

the sleeve at the mark. (s:.lk)

c.. Turn b’ackthe sleeve 301 12-16 A

~ t ~

‘A

piatchat the seamline and,,,-,

(S- lk)

stitch through the sleeve andwigan along the upper and ;

,. ,. -. .~.,f. :

bottom piped edges. The line

j :

;

of stitching shall be adjacent ‘“,. ....,,

::

to the stitching line of the ;. . ...:..,;.::;

sleeve patch piped edge and “,,.. .,-; ,t,~:

shall extend from tie turned

.... ..-. ... . ., ... .

\

20‘


MIL-c-82172A(MC)

OPNNO.

.—

13.

14.

15.

16.


OPERATION

Join ornamental sleeve patchesto sleeves. (cent‘d)

edge to approximately 112 inchover the pointed ends, and atthe center point the stitchingshall extend approximately 1/2inch on each side of the point.

Seam sleeves at backarm.

Finished appearance. Thebackarm seam shall finishsmooth and flat without twists,gathers, puckers or pleats andshall start and finish evenly.

a. Join the top and undersleeve together at the backarm.with a 318.inch seam, catchingthe ends of the wigan rein-forcement piece in the stitchin

b. Spread open the seam and

press smooth and flat with aheated pressing iron.

Baste and tack sleeve tu~upto reinforcement.

a. Turn up the bottom edge ofsleeve to the inside at themark and baste along the turnecedge.

b. Tack the raw edge of theturn up portion to the rein-forcement wigan piece withblindstitching.

Stitch and press dart inunder sleeve linings.

a. Fold the under sleeve lin-ing, matching the cut edges of,the under sleeve dart. Stitch

the entire length of the dart1/4 inch from the cut edges at

StitchType

301

Handor101

301or

Hand

301 ‘

Seam or

Stitch’gType

SSa-1

EFc-1

,....

SSa-1(cutedges)Osf-1

foldede~—.-

StitchesPerInch

. .

12-16

4-6

4-6

12-16

)

THRE

~eedle

A(s

A

(s;lk)

A

)lobbinor

.ooDer

Ak)

A

A

21


I

MIL-c-82172A(MC)

OPNNO.

16.

17.

18.

TABLE I MAN

OPERAT’1ON

Stitch and press dart in undersleeve linings. (conttd)

the armhole and taper the lineof stitching to zero at thelower folded edge.

b. Turn the cut edges of thedart toward the forearm edgeand press the entire dartsmooth and flat with a heatedpressing iron.

Seam sleeve lining at forearm.

Finished appearance. Theforearm seam shall finishsmooth and flat without twists,gathers, puckers or pleats andshall start and finish evenly.

a. Position the top sleevelining with upper forearm edgein line with the notch in thearmhole edge of under sleevelining and with the notches atlower foreann edge of top andunder sleeve lining matching”Seam the top and under sleevelining together 3/8 inch fromthe forearm edge of topsleevelining, forming a tapered out-let on the under sleeve lining.

Seam sleeve lining at backarm.

Finished appearance. The back-arm seam shall finish smoothand flat without twists,gathers, puckers or pleats andshall start and finish evenly.

a. Join the top and undersleeve liningsat the backarmwith a 3/8-inchseam.

;titchThe

301

301

; REQUIRE

;esmor;titch’gType

SSbd-1andSSa-1

SSa-1

NTS

~titchesPerInch

12-16

12-16

THRE

leedle

A

A

)

Iobbinor

,ooper

A

A

22


MIL-C-82172A(MC)

—.—.—-. ...—---------------..--—— .....”

I

.

.

e

.

e

Seesior Stitches THREAD

OPN OPERATION Stitch Stitch’g Per Bobbin


19. Assemble sleeve and sleeve

W&l& ..,“ ,

Finished appearance. The lin- .

ing shall be seamed to thesleeve without twists; gathers,.puckers or pleats.

a. Position the sleeve lining

on the sleeve with the upperedge of the lining extendingapproximately 1 inch beyond thearmhole edge of the sleeve.

b. Tack the sleeve lining to 301 6-8 A .A

the forearm and backarm seam or

allowance, respectively, of Hand 4-6

the top sleeve, commencing at

the top edge of the w“iganrein-forcement piece and extendingto approximately 6 inches fromarmhole edge at backarm andapproximately 4-1/2 inchesfrom armhole edge at ‘forearm.

c: Pull sleeve through lining.

lo, Fell tunuP of sleeve lining.

Finished appearance. Thesleeve lining shall not beshort, tight, or twisted atbottom of sleeves.

a. Turn under the bottom edge Hand

of sleeve lining to finish 1 orto 1-1/4 inches above the, 101

finished end of sleeve, andbaste to turnup of sleeve,or the sleeve lining may befelled to bottom sleeve withoutbasting.

b. Fell the folded edge of Hand 8-10

sleeve lining to the,turnup or (s!lk)

of the sleeve with blind- : 301 EFc-1 6-8 0

stitching. (b) “ (s;lk) ~.“.

,..

23


I

MIL-c-82172A(MC)

TADT u T MAxT1117AP’rTTRTXIC IJ17flI; TRT?>fKXlT<IJIDJJ12 A L-lru, u. m”.”...,. “ L. AS.(. ---- w...w

Seam or Stitches THREADDPN OPERATION Stitch Stitch’g Per ‘BobbinNO. Type Type Inch Needle

Lo~er

21. Press sleeves.— ..——-.—

Turn the sleeves right side outand assemble in pairs. Press

the lower half of sleevessmooth and flat,creasing at theforearm and backarm. The back-arm crease”shall be on the.back-arm seam. Remove basting atlower end of the sleeve.

22. Assemble collar interlining...— __—-—

Finished appearance. The bind-ing at the’top and bottom edgeof the collar interlining shallbe uniformly stitched 1/4 inchfrom the folded edges. The ~

binding shall not be tight orfull causing puckers, gathers,or pleats. The interlining,eyelet reinforcementpieces andedges of the binding shall besecurely caught in the stitch-ing. The interlining shallfinish with the eyelet rein-forcement pieces positioned onthe inside and the felt paddingon the outside. The collareyelet covers shall be posi- [tioned so that in the finishedcollar,the covers shall becentered over the eyelets.

a. Position the eyelet rein- 301 BSa-1 12-16 A A

forcement at each end of the (each

collar interlining. Bind the edge)upper and lower edge of theinterlining with l-lft+inch-wid:strip of binding material spec-ified in 3.3.12,catchingtheeyelet reinforcementsin theseams.

b. Positionthe strip of feltpaddingat the centerof inter-lining,with the ends of thefelt extendingapproximately1inch beyond end of the inter-lining.

24.


MIL-c-82172A(MC)

I

I

I

OPNNO.

22●

23.

TAELE I MAN

OPERATIW

Assemble collar interlining.(contld)

c. Stitch the padding throughinterlining and eyelet rein-forcement from end to end 1/8inch from the upper and loweredge of padding.

d. Lap the raw edge of thecollar eyelet cover 1/2 to 5/8inch on the top inside edge ofcollarinterlining. Seam thecovers to the interlining1/4inch from the raw edge of thecover.

pipe outer ply of collar.

Finished appearance. Thepiping shall extend at lower,upper and side edges of theouterply and shall be uni-formly stitched without twists,gathers$ puckers or pleats.

a. The outer ply shall consistof two plies of basic materialpiped at upper and loweredges with 314-inch wide stripof the piping materialspecified in 3.3,.11.

b. Position the two plies ofthe outer collar together (faceup and edges even)and stitchtogether from end to end, 118

inch from upper and loweredges.

c. Seam the 3/4-inch-wide

strip of piping to the twoplies of collar from end toend, 1/8 inch fron upper andlower edges.

‘ACTURI

;titchType

301

301

301

301

25

REQUIREMENTS\

3!

SSa-1I

12-16(

SSa-1 12-16

12-16

THw

leedle

A

A

A(s:

A(s

I

A

A

Ak)

Ak)


I

. .

MIL-c-82172A(MC)

----- - “’’” ?ACTURING’REQUI_~S3

DPN~~NO.

23.

24.

‘lA.tjLU 1 W

. .

OPERATION

Pipe outer ply of collar.(contid)

d. Turn back the piping andouter ply at upper and loweredges, respectively,unifo~lYworking the foldededge of thepipingbeyond the edges. Top-stitch the outer ply uniformly3/16 inch from the folded-edgeof piping.

Assemblecollar (seeFigure 5)

Finishedappearance. The collashall be assembledas shown inFigure 5 without twists, gathenpuckers or pleats. In the fin:

ished collar, the end of thelining shall extend approxi-mately 1/2 inch beyond the righend of collar and approximately2-1/2 inches beyond the leftend of the collar for the ex-tension tab. Eyelet cover

shall not ,becaught in theeyelet.a. Position the upper pipededge of collar 1/8 inch belowthe upper bound edge of collarinterlining with lower edgesof collar and collar inter-lining even. The collar shall

extend approximately 1 inchbeyond each end of collarinterlining.

b. Stitch collar to inter-lining along the upper andlower piped edge from end toend. Line of stitching shall

be adjacent to stitching ofpiped collar edge, catchingthe eyelet cover in thestitching.

c. Lap the upper piped edgeof collar:ass=bly over the ~upper raw edge of liningapproximately 1/2 inch withthe lining facing up. Stitch

:,titchType

301

301

301

....

iesm or;titch”gType

SSa-1

.,

LSa-1

kitchesPerInch

.12-16.

12-16

: .. ..

12-16

THR

ieedle

-

A(

A(

A(

--L_.

.,.$,. . . . ..$............

)

Iobbinor

.ooDer

A.k)

Alk)

Alk)

. ...- r...

.,

26-


MIL-C-82172A(14C),.”. .’

I

.

I

(mNC

24.

25.

.. ....

TABLE I MU

OPERATION

collar to liningand eyeletcover along piped edge adjacentto stitchingline of the collar”p$ped edge; The stitchingshall extend frcm center to

center of iydet covers,

d. smoothly fdd’dbe qlllaofthe cQUar padding and outerply to the inside over the ends”of the interlining assembly and:press Smoih aad flat with aheated prasshg iron &r pressing!amChine.

e. ‘h%m CQnhr Mdng at theseam CO thfiinside of the Cdh%ma press “smoothand flak with iheatedpr+dng iron or presfain~machine.

w&e colRarextension”tab.

Finishedappearance. The collarextexnshatab shall extend 3/4to 7/$ inch beyond the foldededgeat the left end of collar.

ma Turn the top ad ~oetm ‘edges and the end of the collarMing at the left W(MI.o! the:ollarto the Lnsick of ttme”Lining ad baste the turned)Ortioxlalqlagthe top9 front ,,midbottom ~edges to the body>f the ltning fwrming,the ::Ollar @xcfenstontab. t

): Stit6h ~th~CO~b!r”=te=iOO~

FACTUR

stitchType

Had “’

,-

301 ~

!tiitch.

fI

., ,

... .J ,---- ,... . . ..... ... . . . . . . . . . . .-i. . . . . . . ,. -.4 - .&,. .-. . . .-.-. . . ...4

G REQUIR

seam orstitda”a‘1’)p

,.

“,..,..

.4

.. -:., ..

.,.

.,.

.-

,..

,, .,

. ..’

.

..”..,

,, ..”’.

Ssc-?+:&’..a&&

Iotfumedges.)‘“osf-+”,.:f:oni’:edge)~””jSsa-1-:;

,(back:,:::edge],,,.’.,,.-

~.:‘,,,i;.::.. .,.

....,.......

mm

Siatche!PerInch

.

.(.

..

,...

.. .

,.

,,,<

m!

Needle

D.,Bobbinor ,.

Looper

.

‘~Ac} -’“

;

27


I

I

MIL-C-82172A(MC)

TABLE I MANUFACTURINGREQUIRENENTS

SeasIor Stitches THREADOPN OPERATfON Stitch Stitch’g Per BobbinNO. Type Type Inch Needle

Lo~er

26. Fell ends of collar.

Finished appearance. Theupper and lower piped edges ofthe collar at each end shallnot be visible on the outsideof the finished collar.

a. Fold the ends of collar to Hand . 2-3the inside, against the ends of (s!lk)

interlining. Tack collar to

reinforcement pieces and eyeletcovers with overcast stitching.

b. Make one eyelet on each end Eye- 22 per A A

of collar through all plies of let eyelet (silk)

collar midway between theupper .and bottom edges and 1-1/2 ~1/13inches from foldededge. The eyelet shall not go

through the eyelet cover.

27. Fold and stitch,$art in front.——X*.—-

Finished appearance. The dartsshall finish without gathers,puckers or pleats. Thestitching shall be 3/8 inchfrom the folded edge at thecenter.

a. Fold the front lining and 301 Osf-1 12-16 A A

stitch waist darts in accord-ance with marks indicatedon the pattern,tapering theupper and lower ends to a flatpoint, and securely tackingthe points.

28. Sew on identification labe&.

Finished appearance. Theidentification label shall bepositioned so that in thefinished coat, the label shallbe midway between front andback edges of the rightfacing with the bottomedge ofthe label approximately 4inches from the bottom finish-ed edge of coat.A

28

. —


k

MIL-C-82172A(MC)

TABLE I MANWACTURING REQUIREMENTS-—— .

Seam or Stitches THREADOPN OPEMTION Stitch Stitch’g Per Bobbin


28. Sew on identificationlabel.(cent‘d)

a. Sew the identification 301 SSa-1 i2-16 A A

label to the outsideof the (eachright facingwith a single edge)row of stitches1/16 to 1/8inch from each edge.

29. Join front iining to wool

@&%”

Finishedappearance. Theliningshall be carefullyjoined to the facing so thatin the finishedcoat the liningshall be smooth and flat alongthe facingwithout creases,bulges,overlappingof excessmaterialcm other distortion.

a. Positionthe liningon thewool facingwith the top edges.even.

b. Seam front edges of the 301 SSa-1 12-16 A A

lining to the back edge of thefacing 3/8-inch fromthe edge. “Thestitchingshallextend from top edge of facingto approximately1-1/4 inchesfrom bottom edge.

30. Assembleback lining.

Finishedappearance. The sideback liningshell be carefullyjoinedwithout gathers,puckers or pleats. The seamsshall start and finish evenly.

a. Positionand join the left 301 SSa-1 12-16 A “A

and right side back liningstothe respectivecenterbackliningwith a 3/8-inchseam.

b. Positionthe backs end joi~ 301 SSa-1 12-16 A. A

togetherat tliecenterwith a3/a-inchseam.

29


I

141L-C-82172A(MC)

TABLE I MANUFACTURINGREQUIREMENTS–-—>._________

on! :+ ~pEmTIQN”Seam or Stitd-ws THREAD““

No.stitch Stitlsla”g Pm Bobbin

Type Typ($ Inch ‘NQ(IIi.ile:. or.Looper

,.

31. Join side back and front

WQ!!i2Z”

Finishedappearance. The side ..back and front linings shall becarefully joined without gath- .,ers~ puckers or pleats. Theseams shall start and finish ~ ,,.evenly.

. .

a. Position and join the front 301 ‘ SSa-1” 12-16 ‘A’ ‘:” A ““and side back linings at the ,sides with a 3j4-inch seam.

32. Overedge stitch Mniug and, ...-

facing seams... .,

. ., .

a. Overedge stitch together “6-8 ‘70j2 ‘, 503 : “,’ .,-,; ,.,, 70/2the raw edges of the’facing

lining se~, side seam, side..

5:: 643 : “ 70/2 -, ‘“70j2buk seam and centei back seam ~~illowancei

, ..,., ,,:.

33. Press Iin%ng seams &d waist,,,,

darts. :,, .-

a. Turn the edge of fac&glining seti, the side seams and

.

side back ’seams toward the bac-$ press smooth.dd flat.

.

b Turn the waist darts to-&d the side seam and presssmooth ad flat. :

.,,.,,<

34. Assemble fronts. ‘ ,., ,.:,,

Finished appearance.. The . . ~,’. ..’. ,, ,

chest and;waist darts shall.,.. !., ... . . :.:.,“

fh@h W~$hOUt @th@~S, puck- ; ,,... , ,.,, .,: ;.{

Prs or pleats. The;stitchirig.. ,,~,.:.., ~.,>,.l,,-! .’.-’ .,, . ,.,,’,..,,

for the wiist daqts:sh+ll,be.,

3/8 inch {romthe: f(ild&d’edge , ‘“~ : .,.- .,. ,.. ‘.:. .,

ac the center. .,...:. : “,..... ...,. .,1.’..”.’?.. ,,,.,.2 .i‘.-.’,,.: . .’-: .> .,

a. Fold the fronts; matching : 301 ; ssg-~ : ;.;~2_~6t -.,~,~,,:. :Athe notch& of tlysqhe?t darts-< ~(cut edge)

.’\ Stitch the eni$tk~lengdh’’~~the “ ~“’:wf”-l- ‘“’”~,~:)’..!“ :.”’.“<parts 3/8.inch from ~thenotche+~ : (f@&& ?<$:, ::: ;...,,..,:;,..,,:,:

at the upper end, tapering the{ edge) ,..;$,,f,,,<..;.;“line of s~itching to,zero at :the lower !end. ;


MIL-c-82172A(MC).:..,,

I

I

I

OPNNO..

34.

35.

36.

37.

TABLE I MANUFACTURING REQUI~S

OPERATION

Assemble fronts. (cent’d)

b. Fold fronts and stitchwaist dart in accordance withmarks indicated on the pat-

tern, tapering the upper andlower ends to a flat point andsecurely tacking the points.

Press darts on fronts.

a. Turn the folded edge of thechest dart toward the armholeand press smooth and flat.

b. Turn the folded edge of thewaist dart toward the side seamand press smooth and flat.

Assemble side backs and center

g.

Finished appearance. The sideand center back shall be joinedwithout gathers, puckersorpleats. The seams shall startand finish evenly.

a. Position the center backwith notches matching and joinwith a 5f8-inch seam.

b. Position and join the leftand right side backs withnotches matching to the re-spective center back with a 3/8inch seam.

Join fronts and back.

Finished appearance. The frOnt

and back shall be joined with-out gathers, puckers or pleats.

The seams shallstart.and ‘.finish evenly. “’

{

;titch

Type

:’:,,

301

301

301

,:

ham or;titchegType

,.’.

. . .

“Osf-1

,,,

SSa-1

SSa-1

titchesPer .Inch “

. . .

12-16’””

12-16

12-16

.,.”.,.:

....”.,.,.. .

.

TWREAD‘1 Dbbin

aedle

,;

,.,.

A“

A

A

‘.

..

.,.

orDoper

A

A

A

.,

31


MIL-c-82172A(MC)

TABLE I MANUFACTURINGREQUIREMENTS

Seam or Stitches THREADOPN OPERATION Stitch Stitch’g Per BobbinNO. Type Type Inch Needle

Lo~er

37. Join frontsand back. (cent’d)

a. Positionand join frontsto 301 SSa-1 12-16 A Athe back at the sideswith a 3/4..inch seam.

b, Overedgestitchall raw 503 EFd-1 6-8 70/2 70/2edges of the joiningseams forfrontsand back. 5: EFd-1 6-8 70/2 70/2

c, Spreadopen side and backseAma and press smoothand flatwith a heated pressingiron.

38. Seam reinforcementstay to arm-hole and shoulder.

Finishedappearance. The sile-sia, or polyesterand cottonre-inforcementstays shall be sewnto the armholeand shoulderedges of the frontswithout gath-ers, puckersor pleats. The topend of the armholestay and low-er edge .ofthe shoulderstayshall form a right angle at thearmholewithout the stays over-lappingeach other.

a, Seam the 3/4-inch-widesile- 301 SSaa-1 12-16 A Asla, or polyesterand cottonstays to the undersideof thefront at the shoulderedge andupperfront edge of the armhole,respectively,1/8 inch from theouter edge. The stay at thearmholeshall extendfrom 1/2inch below the shoulderseamdown front edge of armholeapproximately4-1/2 inchesandthe-stayon the shouldershallextend frou”approximately1/2inch from armholeand neck.

39. Tape armholes.

a, Sew the cottontape”tothe 301 SSaa-1 12-16 A A

armholestartingwith one endapproximately1 inch above thenotch in the frontsand con-tinuingalong the lower and

. .

*

....

.

32


MIL-C-82172A(MC)

II

I

I

I

I

I

I

1

I

.

a

..

.

OPNNO.

39.

40.

41.

42.

TABLE I MANl

OPERATAON

.Tape armholes.

back edges of the armhole toapproximately 1/2 inch fromshoulderedge.

b. The tape shall be stitchedwith slight tensionalong thelower front edge of the armholeand shallbe held tautwhilestitchingalong the back edge.

Press shoulderbladesandarmholestapes.

a. Press the shoulderbladesend the armholetape smooth andflat with-a heated pressingiron or suitable typepressingmachine.

Mark and dress left front.

a. Mark and shape the leftfront edge from the top notchto the bottom frontnotch.

b. The mark line shall be 1inch from the upper edge to 1-1/8 inchesat the waistline.Continueon a straightlinefrom waistline to the notch atthe bottom edge.

NOTE: The dressingamd shapingshall be performedin the sew-ing room.

c. Where necessary,trim anyfrayededges along the rightfront and bottom.

Stitchpiping to coat.

Finishedappearance. Thepipingshall be uniformlystitchedto the coatwithoutMsts, gathers,Pu~ers orpleats. The piping shall ex-tend from the collarnotch attop edge of the right front,

CTuRn

StitchType

33

REQUIRFX

;eamor3titCh’gType

kitchesPerInch

THRE

Ieedleobbinor

,ooper


I

I

I

I

3PNNO.

42.

MIL-c-82172A(MC)


OPERATION

Stitch piping to coat.

along the bottomand up to thecollarnotch at top edge of the,left front.

a. Positionthe l-inch-widestrip of piping materialon theoutsideof left and right frontwith edge even with top,front,and bottom edges of coat.Stitchpiping to coat 118 inchfrom edge. The pipingshallextendfrom the bottom rightfront edge to the collarrtotchat the top edge of left front.

b. Turn the piping to theinaide,foldingthe cornerssmoothand flat and workingoutthe foldededge of piping uni-formly,1/8 inch beyond theedgesof the coat.

c. Topstitch the coat to thepiped edges uniformly 3/16 inchfrom the folded edge of thepiping, catching the turnedunder portion of the piping inthe stitching

d. Notch OUt any excess piph~

materialat the top and bottomfront cornersto eliminatebulkiness. ‘him the inner edg~of piping on the left frontonly from the upper front downto approximately1 to 1-1/2inchesbelow waistlineso thatthe pipingwill not interferewith frontbuttonholes.

e. Serge stitch the raw edgeof the pipingat the bottomedge of coat only.

-

titchType

301

301

503

5:

km or Stitches THREAD

;titch’g Per Bobbin

Type inch NeedleLo~er

SSa-1. 12-16 A A(Silk)

12-16 A A(Si1A)

EFd-1 6-8 70/2 70/2

EFd-1 6-8 70/2 ~~ 70/2

!.,

~.

34

I


I

I

1.!0 —OPNNO

42.

43,

44.

TABLE I MA

OPERATION

Stitch piping to coat. (cent’d)

f. Press the piped edgesofcoat smoothand flatwith aheatedpressingiron or press-ing machine

Interlinefronts.

a. Positionthe left and rightfrontson the respectivecoatfrontinterliningsand bastethe interliningand frontstogetherfrom approximately3-1/2 inchesdown from the shoul-der edge to approximately 2inches from the bottom edge ofthe front.

b, Baste along the shoulderallowingroom for settingtheshoulderpad, workingthe full-ness in the frontstowardsthearmhole. Baste along the frontof the armholeapproximately1-1/2 inchesfrom the edge andcontinueto baste down the backedge of interlining,acrossthewaist dart, to approximately2 inchesfrom the bottomedge cfronts. Baste along the topedge from the bastingstitchesfor the shoulderto approximately 1-1/2 inchesfrom the frontedge. Continueto basteapproximatelyl-lj2 inchesfrouthe front edge to the bottomedge of fronts.

Trim coat frontinterlining.

a. Trim the top edge of coatinterliningeven with the topedge of frontsfrom the pointof the shoulderto the collarnotch.

?ACTUR

StitchType

Handor301

Handor301

b. Notch the top edge of theinterlining in Line with thecollar notch.

35

L!EWE!

Seam orStitch’gType

Hopper

Hopper

WTs

Stitc}PerInch

MIL-C-82172A(MC)

THRE

ieedle

.

)bobbinor

.ooper

I

I


MIL-C-82172A(MC)

I

I

TABLE I MANUFACTURINGREQUI-TS

SWniior stitches THREAD

OPN oPERATION stitch Stitch’&l Pm Bobbin

NO. Type Typla Inch NeedleLo;~er

44. Trim coat front interlining.(cent’d)c. Remove stitches joining thefront edge of eilesiaor poly-ester and cottonto coat frontinterlinin~approximately1/2inch back from front and topedge of fronts.

d. Turn the fronts.insideoutand trim the interliningonly,approximately114 inch backfrom the front and top edge offronts.

e. Trim the shoulderedge ofthe coat front interliningtoapproximately3/4 inch fromshoulderat armholeedge offrontsand taper the trimmingto 3/8 inch at the neck.

.

45. Bind front and top edge ofinterlining;

a. Fold the sileaiaor poly- “301 EPa-3 12-16 A “A

ester and cottonback and overthe to~ and front raw edge.ofthe interlining. Stitch thefront turnedunder portionofthe eilesiaor polyesterandcotton to the body of theinterliningwith three rowsof stitches1/4 inch apart,pLacingthe first row 1/8 inch

..

from folded front edge andcatchingthe upper turnedunderportionin the stitching.

46. Bind top neck edge of inter-lining.

Finishedappearance. The’cottonsileslaor polyesterand

cottonbinding shall be uniform“-...

lY stitchedto the top edge of.the coat front interliningfrom

the collarnotch to the shoul-der point.

.,, ..

36


Ii

I

,

DPNNO.

46.

47●

MIL-c-82172A(MC)

TABLE I MANUFACTUR~G REQUI~S

OPERATION

Bind top neck edge of inter-lining. (cent’d)

a. Lap the 3/4-inch-wide bind-ing on the outside of the coat’front interlining from the col-lar notch to the shoulder pointapproximately 114 inch. Stitchthe binding to the interlining1/8 inch from the raw edge ofthe binding,

b. Smoothlyfold the free edgeof the bindingover the topedge and to the undersideofthe interlining, Secure thefree edge of binding to theinterliningwith a row ofstitches1/8 inch from the rawedge of the binding,

Fell piping to coat front in-terlining.

a. Place the inner edge-ofpiping on the outsideof theinterliningat the top,frontand bottom edges. Baste P$Pin~to interliningthroughthefronts.

b. Fell the upper front andlower inner edge of the pipingto the coat front interlining.

c. Pull and removebastingstitchesfrom piping.

d. Press the left and rightfrontson a suitabletype heated pressingmachine,with thecheat to conformto the shapeof the body.

StitchType

301

301

101

301or

Hand

37

ham or;titch’gwe

LSa-1

EFc-1

kitchesPerInch

12-16

12-16

4-6

4-6

IIIRE

eedle

A

A

A

c(silk’

obbinorooper

A

A

A

—


I

MIL-C-82172A(MC)

TAllI.UT MANITUAf!TllRTNCRF.OIITREMFNTS.— -- -. .. ..-.- ... ”.-..--.” --% . -- ——-. . .

SesaIor Stitches THREADOPN OPERATION Stitch Stitch’g Per IBobbinNo. Type Type Inch Needle

l.o~~er

48. Mark fronts for positioning thebraid and buttonholea(see Figure& I

a. Mark the location of sevenbuttonholes on the outside ofleft front. The top and bottombuttonholes shall be in accord-ance with the mark on the pat-tern. The remaining five

buttonholes shall be evenlyspaced.

b. Extend each buttonhole linetowards the armhole edge. Thesecond buttonhole line A-Cshall extend to within 1-1/4inches from armholeedge and 5/8inch from the front piped edge.The lower buttonhole line B-Dshall be 1 inch shorter thanline A-C as shown in Figure 6.

c.”’Bisect lines A-C and B-Dand connectthe bisectingpointsE-F with a straightline (seeFigure6).

d. Positionthe left frontonthe right front face to face,with collarnotches and armholeedges even. Trace the sameline on the right front tocoincide with the lines on theleft front; the lines on theright front shall extend 3/4to 1 inch from the front pipededge. The bisecting line onthe right front shall be iden-tical to line E-F on the leftfront.

e. Draw a circle 7/8+1/32, -Oinch in diameter on eachhorizontalline, centeredtothe bisect line E-F and withthe edge of each circle touch-ing the horizontal line form-ing a figure 8 design asshown on Figure 6.

38


t

MIL-c-82172A(MC)


OPERATION

Baste gold braid to fronts.(seeFigures6 and 7).

a. The braid shall be basted asshown in Figure 7 tO the frontson the marks shown in Figure 6.On the left side of the coat,the edge of the braid shall fol-low the edge of the buttonholemarks.

Stitch gold braid to fronts(seeFigure 7).

a, The braid shall.bestitchedto frontsas shown in Figure 71/16 inch from each edge of thebraid except the stitching shallnot cross over the center of th(figure 8 design. The braid onthe left front only shall be un.stitched for approximately 3inches from front end of the‘bu~ionholeloop %raid.

Set belt 100VS.

Finishedappearance. The beltloops shall finishverticallystraight.

a. Center the belt loopsverticallyon the side seam witthe pointedend towardsthebottom of the coat and with theraw edge of the loop in hori-zontalalignmentwiththemarkfor the bottom buttonholeasindicatedby the pattern.

b. Seam loops to the coat 1/4inch from the raw edge.

c. Turn the loop at,thesea%with the pointedend!towardsthe top edge of coat, and se-cure loop to”coatwith a rowof stitches1/4 inch from thetaised edge.

StitchType

Hand

301

301

301

-

SessiorStitcit’g

Type

SSa-1(eachedge)

LSq-2(a)

LSq-2,(b]

,titches THREAD

Per Bobbin

Inch NeedleLo~er

12-16 A A(Silk)

12-16 A A(silk)

i2-16 A’ A(si:.k)

..... . .. .

39


MIL-C-82172A(MC)


SWmi or stitches mEADOPN CWERATION stitch St.itch’g Per ;BobbinNo. Type ~e Inch Needle

Lo;~er

52. Join facing to fronts.

a. PositionEhe left and rightfronts to the respectivefrontfacings (faceto face),withthe waistlinenotch of the frontin line with the notch on thefacingand with the front pipededge approximately3/8 inch fromthe front edge of facing, Markthe facingalong the top,frontand bottom edges.

b. Lap the front edge of the 301 LSa-1 12-16 A Aright and left fronts,respec- (Sil%)tivelyon the outsideof thefacingat the marks and jointhe front and facing togetheras close as possible to, but noton top of, the stitching joiningthe piping to the front. Thestitching shall extend ‘fromtopto bottom edge of coat frontedge only.

c. Trim excess facing materialwhere necessary.

,.

53. Baste front edges.

a. Turn the facing-lining 101assemblies to the inside of orfronts. Baste along the front Handedge of left and right fronts,working the facing back fromthe folded edge of the piping.

54. Baste facinp,(second time).

Baste the facing to the Hand

;;onts approximately 1-1/4 or

inches from the top, front and 301 Hopperbottom edges of the coat, hold-ing the lower corner of thecoat in such a manner as tocause the lower front edge ofthe fronts to roll inward to-wartisthe back edge of thefacin~.

*

40

1-


MIL-c-82172A(MC)

I

I

t

I

OPNNO.

54.

55.

56.

TABLE I MANUFA-NG REQU1~s

OPERATION

Baste facing (secondtime).(cent‘d)b. Turn under and baste thetop edge of the facing to thefronts from the collarnotchto the front edges catchingtheturnedunder portionof thefacingin the baeting.

d. him under the bOttOm edgeof the fadbingat themarkandbasfse.a$ongthe foldededge.

‘hackfacingstoIhnhezrlintigo

a.. ‘hackthe right ad Leftfacing-liming seam SMLcwanncetotheImspectlwe coat frontinwrl%iniOngfrom apprpdmtely2-1/2 %IVIcbersfrom bottanmedgeof coat to approximately3inches from the sbotdderedge.

a. Fond the frm.a Ubdng inaccordsmcewith the nWches9fo-mg the chest pleat,andbaste along the entirecenterof the pleat. The foldededgeof the pleat on the outsideoftie liningshall,bet..owmnk%th{WlokDk.

b: Baste the front Iintng$0”.the coat9 qtartingat the lowelmd of chest pleats @ntinuing,:

... ..-. ... .. . . .. . .. ... ... ,,.,-. . . . . ... ,- -“. ‘-

StitchType

.-.

SeamorStitch’$Type

Hopper

Hopper

E@peu

X%&n

liop~glc

‘.,,,,.... .

,;.~,. ,

Hopper

jtitchesPerInch

4-6

4-6

.. .

..

.. ........ ., .... .$,.-. . . . . .

THREADmxi-

Veedle

(A)(AC)

,...,.

.. . . . .,.’ , -. . .

41


MIL-C-82172A(MC)

TABLE I MANUFACTURINGREQUIREMENTS1

Seam or Stitches THREADOPN OPERATION StitchStitch’g Per BobbinNO. Type “Type Inch Needle

Lo~er

56. Baste front liningsto coat.(cent’d)

along lower edge of armholeapproximately 2 inches from the

edge, and ending at the sideseam. Match side seams of coatand lining and continue bastingas close as possible to the sideseam and then across the bottomtowards the front approximately4 inches from piped bottom edgeof coat.

57. Baste back lininz to coat.

a. Fold the back lining, form- Hand Hoppering approximately a l-inch-widepleat at the center back. 3:Baste the back lining to thecoat along the center pleatfrom the top end, to approxi-mately 4 inches from bottomfinished edge of coat.

b. Baste back lining to coat Hand Hopperstarting at side seam and orcontinuing approximately 3 301inches from the armhole andshoulder edges.

58. Hem bottom.edge of lininfi

Finished appearance. The hemshall be uniformly stitched andshall finish smooth and flatwithout twists, gathers, puck-ers or pleats. ‘The hem shallbe 3/4 ~1/8 inch wide. Thelining securing straps shall bqpositioned on the side seam out-lets of the lining with one edgeeven with the serged edge.

ht

a. Hem the bottom edge of bodj 301 EFb-1 12-16 A A

lining with the raw edge turnedunder and with one end of thesecuring straps positioned and

,,

caught in the stitching 1/16inch from the upper.folded edgqof hem.

A r

42


.

e

I

I

I

I

MIL-C-82172A(MC)

TABLE I MANUFACTURINGREOIJIREMENTS——-— —.——.---. .----— .- .—=-. -— —.-.

Seamor Stitches TNREADOPN OPERATION Stitch Stitch’g Per BobbinNO. Type we Inch Needle

Loser

59. Tack the lininfzsecuring strapsto bottom of coat.

Finishedappearance. The liningsecuringstrapswhen tackedto

.

the bottom edge of coat shallnot cause Msts or other dis-tortionsto either the coat orthe lining. The end of thesecuringstrapsshall finish“betweenthe piping at bottomedge of coat and side seamallowance. In the finishedcoat, the liningshall not bevisiblebelow the bottom edgeof coat,

a. Positionand securelytack 301 A’ A

the free end of the securingstraps to the piping at thebottom edge of coat throughtheside seam allowance. /’

b. Positionthe bottom edge 301 Osf-1 A Aof the lining so that in thefinishedcoat, the liningshall not be visiblebelow thebottom edge of coat. Fold thelining securingstraps acrossthe width and stitch approxi-mately 1/4 inch from the foldedend in order to hold the liningin position.

60. Fell facings.

a. Fell the fac$ng to the Hand 8-10piping at the bottom edge of (stlk)the wat, startingat thebottom edge of the liningandcontinuingalong the back andbottom edges of facing to thefront edge of coat.

b. Fell the foldededge”of Hand 8-10the facingsto the piping along (S:lk)the top edge from collarnotchto front edge of coat.

a ., .43-


MI&C-8217~”(MC)

TABLE I -ACTURING REQU1kEMENTS

,..seam or stitches THREAD

OPN OPERATION StitchStitdn’g Bar BobbinNO. Type Type, Inch Nwdle or

Looper

61. Trim liningand interlining.

a. Trim the excess coat front,interliningand front liningat the armhole.

b. Trim back liningeven atthe neck. .

c. Trim the shoulderedge ofthe front and back lining toapproximately3/4 inch fromshoulderat the armholeedgeand taper the trimmingto 3/8inch at the neck.

62. Baste shoulderpad to coat.

a. Insertshoulderpads Nandbetweeninterliningand chestpaddingof coat fronts. Se- 3: Hoppercurely tack the pad to theinterliningand chest paddingonly.

63. Make buttonholes.

Finishedappearance. Thebuttonholesshall be clean cut,well made, well worked overgimp to fit 40-lineinsigniabuttons. The stitchingof thebuttonholesshall be securelycaughtin the basic material.The gimp and threadshallbepulled throughto the under-

‘“aide of the front. The pur-llng of the buttonholesshallbe on the outs$deof thefronts. The inaideedge ofthe eyelet end of the button-. .....hole shall be 5/8 %nch fromthe front edge of coat. Thebuttonholesshall be cut first

,.

type. .,

a. Remove the basting Oritheunstitchedportionof the braid.

.

44

—


I

MIL-c-82172A(MC)

t

I

I

I

OPNNO.

63.

64

‘IABLEI W

OPERATION

Mske buttonholea. (cent’d)

b. Mark the left front for thelocationof seven buttonholes.The marks for the top and bot-tom buttonholesshall be inaccordancewith the patterns.The marks for the remainingfivbuttonholesshall be evenlyspaced.

c. Make one horizontaleyelet-end square-bartype buttonhole,cut 1-1/8 inches long at eachof the marks.

d. Securelybartack the endof each buttonhole,catchingthe ends of the gimp and threadin the bartack. Trim the endsof the gimp and thread.

e. Rebastethe unstitchedpor-tion of the braid around thebuttonholesand completelystitch that portionof thebraid throughthe facingasshown on Figure 3.

Seam shoulders.

Finishedappearance. Theshoulderseam shall ftnishwithouta distortedappearance,

a. Join the back to the front:at the shoulderswith a 3/8-inch seam,working in the full”ness on the back in accord-ance with good manufacturingpractice.

b. Spreadopen the shoulderseam and press flat,holdingthe shouldersshort and exer-cising much care in Pressingin order not toeffecta dis-tortedappearmce in the fin-ished seam. The pressingshal

be accomplishedwith a heated

FACTUR

StitchType

utton-hole

Bar-tack

301

45

; REQUIREMENTS

SeamorStitch’gType

SSa-1

;titchesPerInch

60 per]utton-Iole(notin-:luding>artack)

21 perbartack

12-16

0

THRE

eedle

—

B(s

A(s

A

obbinorooper

Fk)

Ak)

A

I


I

MIL-C-82172A(MC)

TABLE I MANUFACTURINGREQUIREMENTS1

Seam or Stit%hes THREADOPN OPERATION ‘Stitch Stitch’g Per BobbinNO. Type Type Inch Needle

Lo~er

64. Seam shoulders. (cent’d)

pressingiron or pressingma-chine over a suitableblock.

c. Positionthe front linlng Handand coat front interliningat ; orthe neck, shoulderand armhole “301 Hopperedges of the fronts. Baste allplies togetheron the outsidealong the front edge of armholeand continuealong the shoulderseam and gorge, catchingtheshoulderpad in the beating.Turn the coat on the inside.

65. Baste back lining and facing-liningassemblyat shoulders.

a. Turn under end lap the Handshoulderedge of the back lin-ing on the facing-liningae-sembly. Baste lining to coatalong the folded edge of theback liningwith the top endof the chest pleat caughtinthe basting.

d66. Seam necklinewith size label

and coat hanger.

Finishedappearance. The neck-line shall finish smooth andflat,without Msts, pleatsor puckers. The size labelshall be positionedbetweenthe ends of the coat hangerand the ends of the coathangershall be positionedso that in ,the finishedcoat the h~geropeningshall be 2 ~1/8inches long when measuredalong the lower edge of collarlining.

a. Join facingsand back lin~ 301 SSa-1 12-16 A Aing to coat at the neckline ;from collarnotch to collarnotch wjth a l/4-inchseamend with the upper edge of thesize label and the ends of the

.

46

‘r


MIL-C-82172A(MC)

TABLE I MANUFACTURINGREQUIRFJfENTS

Seau or Stitches THREAD

OPN OPERATION Stitch Stitch’g Per BobbinNo* Type Type Inch Needle

Lover

66. ‘Seamnecklinewith size labeland coat hanger. (cent’d)

hanger positionedand caughtin the stitchingat the insidecenterback.

b. Press the necklineof thecoat smooth and flat with aheated pressingiron or press-lug machine.

67. Set collarwith lining.

Finishedappearance. The collti‘shall be carefullyjoined tothe coat without distortionofthe collar.

a. Mark the necklineon theInside3/8 to 1/2 inch frmtop edge for proper positioningof collar.

b. Positionthe collarwiththe lower edge lappedon theoutsidetop edge of the’coatat the mark.

c. Seam the collarfrom end to 301 LSa-1 12-16 A

end, to the wat, as close as (s:.lk)A

possibleto, but not on top of,the stitchingfor the piping atthe lower edge of the collar.The stitchingshall not bethroughthe collar lining.

68. Set shoulderstraps.

Finishedappearance. Theshoulderstraps shall be uni-formlystitchedto the coatwithout twists,puckers,pleatsor other distortion. On thefinishedcoat, the straps,in-cludingthe piping,shall be2-3/8~118 incheswide at th’earmholeseam and shall taperto 1-3/4~l18inches wide atthe buttonhotieyelet end.

.47


I

MIL-C-82172A(MC)

TAR1.R. T MANITFACFHRTNC RWNITRRMENTS

OPN.“NO.

-

“68.

69.

OPERATION

,,

Set shoulderstraps. (cont~d)

a. Positionthe shoulderstrap,withthe back edge 1/4 to 1/2inch to the back of the shouldeseam at the armholeand withthe roundedend of the scraps,on the finishedcoat, 11’4to3/8 inch from loweredge ofcollare

b. Seam the shoulderstraps tothe coat 1/4 inch from the arm-hole edge. ‘Eriauthe shoulderstrapseven with the armholewhere necessary. Turn the coaton the inside.

Set skews.

Finishedappearance. The arm-hole sleeve seam shall finishwithout tWiStS~ gathers, puck-ers or pleats.

a. Positionsleeveon outsideof coat at the armhole, withbackarmseam of sleevematch-ing the side back seam and witlnotch in top sleeve and frontmatchhge

b. Jotn the sleeve to the coatwith a 3/8-inchseam,catchingthe end of the shoulderstrapsin the stitching.

co Press II& entirearmholesmooth andflat with a heatedpressingiron,exercisingcarenpt to stretch the armhole.Spread operiupper part of thearmhole-sleeveseam from thebackarm seam of sleeve to~pproximately midway betweenshoulder seam and notch atfront edge-of armholeandpress smooth and flat with aheated pressing”ironi

,----- ------- -—_---—v..-

Se”ill or Stitches;titch stitch*g PerType me Inch

t

301 Ssa-1 12-~6

,.

I

301 Ssa.-l 12-16

,.

..

,. .....+.,.,>...,

,,, .,:

‘ . ,.. . . .,

.“. “>-..~,,..,:“,.+ -......... .. ...

,,<-..,:., ,’:-..:,,,

-I’m

Ieedle

A

A

..’,,.

.~,...,..

,.*,

... .

:’ .,.:,., . .

.. . ..-..

obbinor

,ooDer

Ak)

A

48....


I

t

I

I

I

I

I

I

I

MIL-C-82172A(MC)

TABLE I MANUFACTURINGREQUIRRfENTS1

SeaaI or Stitches THREAD

OPN oPERATION Stitch Stitch’g Per Bobbin

NO. Type Type Inch NeedleLo~er

69. Set sleeves. (cent’d)

d. Fold the excessmaterialatarmholepit up to the line ofstitchingof the armholesleeveseam, forminga hinge effect.The fold shall extend from thearmholenotch to approximately4 inches from the backarmseam.

e, Press the fold smooth andflatwith a heated pressingiror.

70. Baste armhole.

a. Baste around the entire Hand ,’armholeon the Inside,holdingthe back lining,shoulderpad 3:: Hopper :, .:!..and front liningin place and .,,.“-.- :,-,,.~,

distributing fullness evenly.Turn coat on the outside.

::,.::, .. ,..,.’: ..’ :...3*..,.,, ,: ., ‘W?.:-.::<,,!, .“,.,...::j:

b. Mete around the outside Hand ; ‘ !-.,:;.:,,.,.:.:.’

armhole adjacent to the arm-hole seam, forcing out the arm- 3: Hopper ‘,, .,;,,, :,,

hole in the basting. The bast-:,-

ing shall extend from the back- . .. .,

arm seam of sleeves to thefront notch of coat.

,,

71. Set underarm shields.

a. Baete or tack underarm Hand

shieldsat the base of armhole.3: .“

72. Stitchsleeve head Pads andliningsat armhole.

Finishedappearance. The arm-hole shall not be distortedorpuckereddue to stitchingthesleevehead pads end liningsat the armhole.

a. Positionthe sleeveheadpad on the sleeveswith thefoldededge of the pad approxi~mately 1/8 inch back from theraw edge of the armhole- .sleeveseam and with the one ‘

n b 1 4.,..

1

1

49


MIL-C-82172A(MC)

TAELE I MANUFACTURING REQUIREMENTS

I

OPNNO.

72-

73●

74.

OPERATION

Stitchsleevehead vads andliningsat armhole.(cent’d)

end of the pad matchingthenotch $n the fronts.

b. Stitch the sleevehead padto the sleeve from end to end,throughthe armhole-sleeveseamallowance,1/8 inch from thefoldededge of the pad, catch-i~ the front and back liningsand the shoulderpad in thestitching. Continuestitchingthe lid,ngsaround the remaind~of the armhole,catchingtheunderarmshieldsin the stitch-ing and triumingaway the ex-cess material.

c. The underarmshieldmay bebasted to the armholepriorto stitching.

Tack underarm shield to lining,

Finishedappearance. Thetackingfor the underarmshieldshall finishapproxi-mately 1/2 inch from the seamxedges.

a. Tack the underside of theunderarm shields to body lin-ing along the side and bottomedges.

Fell back linlng and facing-liningassemblyat shoulders.

a. Fell the back liningandfacing-liningassemblytogethe]at the shoulders,placing thestitchingover the folded edgeof back liningand securingthe top end of the chest pleatin the felling.

StitchType

301

Hand

Hand

—.

SeaaIorStitch’gType

SSa-1

5titchesPerInch

4-6

4-6

8-10

TiRI

{eedle

24/4

(siL)

(S:lk

)lobbinor

.ooper

24/4

I

e

..-

..

50


II MIL-c-82172A(MC)

—

I

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TABLH I MANUFACTURINGREQUIREMENTS

OPNNO.

OPERATION StitclType

74.

I

Fell back liningand facing-liningassemblyat shoulders.(cent‘d)

b. Fell the foldededge of Handfacing to the piping along thetop edge from collarnotch tofront edge of coat.

75*

I

Fell sleeve lining at armhole. Ia. Positionthe sleeve liningat the armholewith the backand forearmseems of the sleeveand sleeve liningmatching.

b. Turn under the armholeedgof the sleeve liniug and lapthe liningon the outsideofthe front and back liningandthe top edge of the underarmshield. Fell the sleeve I.ininto the coat around the entirearmhole,placing the stitchingover the folded edge of thesleevelining, catchingtheunderarmshield in the fellingand distributingthe fullnessin accordancewith good com-mercialpractice. Backstitchthe lower armholeedge frombackarmseam of sleeve to thefront edge of the shield.

OR

c. Machine stitch the loweredge of the sleeve liming,atthe armhole,on the inaidefrom forearmseam to backarmseam and hand fell the re-mainingportion as specifiedin operations74b abwe.

301

OR

seam 02Stitch’Type

SSa-1

Stitche~PerInch

8-10

8-10

12-16

THREADBobbin

NeedleLo~~er

(s:lk)

(s;lk)

A, A

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MIL-c-82172A(MC)

TAREE 1 MANUFACTIIRINGREQUIREMENTS----- - .- —.. ------- —--- .—=-—-—.—. .. .1

SsJamor Stitches TNREAD

IPN OPERATION Stitch Stitch’g Par Bobbin

NO. Type Type Inch NeedleLo~er

75● Fell sleeve liningat armhole.(cent’d)

d. Machinestitch the lower Machin 8-10

edge of the sleeve lining at (Sia)the armholeon the insidefromforearmseam to backarmseamand stitch the remainingpor-tion of the sleeve liningatthe armholewith machinesimu-lated hand felling.,

NOTE: It is requiredthat.thesimulatedhand fellingproducedby machineshall be equal to or

,’

better than the hand felling.

76. Mark for eyeletson shoulders.

a. Mark each shoulderfor the. .

locationof one eyelet for re-movable insigniabuttons toalignwith the eyelet of button-hole in shoulderstraps. .Onthe finished.coat, the shoulderstrap shall lie smooth and flatwithout twistingor bulging.

77. Make eyelets.

Finishedappearance. The eyele1shall be well workedwith thepurlingof the eyeleton the

‘.

outside-ofthe shoulder.The eyele’tsshall finishkrithal/8-inchdiameteropening. ,,

. . .“

a. Make .oneeye~etat the mark Eyelet 22 per A. A

on each shoulderthroughall eyelet “.-( SLIM

,pliea. ,.., .,,.\ ....,:...,,

78. Sew hooks and eyes to collar.,. ‘ .’,’ ,.”,:,.,....’.

,,;,;. .’

;Finishedappearance. The hooks‘shallbe;positionedon the ..,

~collarso that in we fimishe~;coat the.topand bottomhooks:\shallbe~approxi-tely 1/4 inch ‘~from top:andbottomedges,re+ :

j

. . .. ... .,.

-..

.

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MIL-C-82172A(MC)

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OPNNO

78 e

79,

TABLE I M

OPEWTU.IN

Sew hooks and eyes to collar.(cent’d)

spectivelyof collarand the rmaininghook shall be midwaybetween top and bottomhooks.The eyea shall be positionedtengage the hooks, effectingaflat, smooth closureat frontof collarwithoutmis~ignmentor gapping.

a. Positionand eecurelysewthreehooks to the right endand three.eyee to the left endof the collar,

Finish collar.

a. Securelytack the lowercornersof the collar to thecoat.

b. Turn under the end and topedge of the liningat the righend of the collarand positionthe folded edge of the linlngunder the hook. Fell the folded end of the collar lining tothe end of the collarand con-tinue fellingalong the topfolded edge to the end of thestitchingjoining the liningto the collar.

c. Turn under and fell thelower edge of the collar lin-ing to the coat from end toen~catchimg the turnedunderportionof the lining at the -right end in the felling.

NOTE: The lower edge ofcollar Liningmay be basted :to coat prior to felling.

d. Fell~thecolla~extension’.tab to the left end;of the CO1lar and continuealyg the ~

JFACTURINGREQUIR

StitchType

Hand

Hand

Hand

Hand

Hand

-

53

seamorStitcl)’gType

mNTs

StitchesPerInch

16 perlookandeye

8-10

8-10

8-10

...

8-10

ml

Veedle

~ :.?

(Sfli)”doublebread)

(stlk)

(s;lk)

(S:lk)

,.

‘c(silk)

3Bobbin

Lo&er


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MIL-82172A(MC)

TABLE 1 MANUFACTURINGREQUIREMENTS

ISesm or Stitches THREAD

OPN OPERATION Stitch Stitch’g Per BobbinNO. Type Type Inch Needle

Lo~er

79● Finish collar. (cent’d)

folded top edge to the end ofthe stitching joining the lin-ing to the collar.

e. Turn the collar eyelet Hand 8-10covers to the inside of the (sflk)collar and fell”the front edge,from top to bottom edge. Con-tinue the felling along the

bottom edge for a distance of1/2 inch from front edge.

m. Clean coat.

a. Pull any basting thread,trim and remove any loose endsof threadand remove any spots,stains and tickets without in-jury to the material.

81. Press coat.

a. The coat shall be well ..

pressed throughoutwith aheated pressingiron or prees-ing machine of a type suitableto obtain the desiredshape andappearancein accordancewithgood manufacturingpractices.

b. Press the fronts smoothand flat, straighteningandshaptng the front edges endworking fullnesstowardsthechest. Care shall be exercisedin pressingthe fronts so thatthe bottom edgea are even.

c. Press the entire collarsmooth and flat.

d. Press the fronts on a bodymathine,shrinking‘ad properlyshaping the chest.

54

.

..

m


a

-..

OPNNO

81,

TABLE I ~

OPERATION

Press coat. (cent’d)

e. Press the sides,workingthe fullnesstowardsthe back.

f. Press the back smooth andflat, removingall fullness.

g“ Press the sleevessmoothand flat, creasingat the back’arm and forearm. The back-arm creaseshall be on the bat]arm seam. The forearmandbackarmcreaseshall extend un:form.lyto a point approximstel;3 to 3-1/2 inchesbelow thebase of the armhole.

h. Block the shouldersto re-move the fullnessand pressshoulderssmooth on a shoulder’shapingmachine. Press theshoulderstrap flat.

i. Press the armholessolidfrom the inside,creasingthearmholeat the front, andcreasingthe excessmsterlalthe armpit. The armpitandback of the armholeshall beheld shortwhile pressing.

j. Block the armholeson apressingbuck, shrinkingthetop sleeves.

k. Press lower edge of coatsmooth,flat and even.

1. Remove all wrinklesand

al

impressionsfrom under shoulde~straps.

m. Press body lining through-out, removingall back wrinklaand cresses. Press the frontand back liningpleatssmoothand flat.

n. Remove all gloss marks.

NUPACT

StitcType

liGREQUI

Sean orStitch’1Type

MENTs

StitchePerInch

MIL-C-82172A(MC)

Needle

THREADBobbin

Lo~~er

55


MIL-C-82172A(MC)

TAELE I MANUFACTURING REQUIREMENTS

3PNNO.

81.

82,

83,

84.

85.

OPERATION

Press coat. (cent’d)

o. Remove any wrinkles andcreasesmissed by previouspressingoperations.

Mark for belt 100P buttons.

a, Mark each side seam for thelocationof one removable27-line insigniabutton to properlalignwith the eyeletbutton-hole in the belt loop.

Cut opening for belt loopbuttons.

a. Cut an’approximately1/4inch vertical long openingatthe mark on each aide seam.The openingshall be madethroughside seam of the woolparts of the coat only.

b, Securelytack or.bartackeach end of the opening.

Mark for buttonson the rightfront. ,,

a. Mark the locationfor sew-ing sevsn 40-lineinsigniabuttons to the right front ofthe coat to properlyengagewith the buttonholeson the le:front. The mark for the.topbutton shall be in line withthe right front.endof collarand remainingbuttons shall bein verticalalignmentwith thetop button.

Attach and sew on buttons.

Finished appearance. The but-tons shall be aLigned with thebuttonholes to secure a smoothand complete closure withoutbulging or misalignment.

I I 1

kitchType

Rendor301

Seam ot Stitches THREAD

Stitch’g Per BobbinType Inch Needle

Lo~er

.,

2-5 c

4-6 A A(s1!.k)

;,.;*,

..,.‘ .,”,

. .,. .,

.

.

56

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MIL-c-82172A(MC)

7ARTU T MANHuAC17TRTNCRT?.fMITRFlfEtW%.--” * . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..- .- y-. .—— ---

Seam or Stitches THREADOPN OPERATION Stitch Stitch’g Per BobbinNO. Type Type Inch Needle

Lo;~er,.

85. Attach and sew on buttons.

(cent’d)

a. Insert the shank of one27-line insignia button througheach eyelet on shoulders, orna-mental sleeve patch, and througtcut openings at side seams.

b. Attach reinforcement disc(see 3.3.5)”-through”the shank.of button on each side seam.Secure buttons to shoulders,side seam and ornamental sleevepatch with a metal ring toggle.

c. Button belt loop.

d. Sew one 40-line insignia Hand 8 wraps 241+...button at’each of the marks on’ (double

the right front through all thread)

plies.

e. The insignia button on thefront shall be sewn with thehead of the eagle upright.

. ..,

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.’.....’....

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57.:,..


MIL-C-82172A(MC)

,- *3.7 Finished measurements. The finished coat shall conform to the measure- ●ments shown in Table 11./,-

Table II. Coat measurements/Back Sleeve

Size Breast ~f length~/ length~/

Shortinches inches inches

34 35 28-3/4 17-1/2 >35363738394041424446

36373839404142434547

28-7/82929-1/829-1/429-3/829-1/229-5/829-3/43030-1/4

17-1/217-1/217-1/2 :.17-1/217-1/217-1/217-1/217-1/217-1/217-1/2

Regularinches inches inches

34 35 29-3/4 18-1/235363738394041424446

36373839404142434547

29-7/83030-1/830-1/430-3/830-1/230-5/830-3/43131-1/4

18-11218-1/218-1/218-1/218-1/218-1/218-1/218-1/218-1/218-1/2

Longinches inches inches

34 35 30-3/4 19-1/235363738394041424446

363738394041.

;;4547

30-7/83131-1/831-1/431-3/831-1/231-5/831-3/43232-1/4

19-lj2 =

19-1/219-1/219-1/2 .

19-1/219-1/219-1/219-1/2 ‘ ;,19-1/219-1/2

L.’ ●

...

58


I

MIL-c-82172A(MC)

oTable II. Coat measurements ~/ (cent’d)

Back SleeveSize Breast z/ length ~! length ~/

Extra Longinches inches fnches

34 35 32-1/4 20-1/235363738

G 394041

.. 424446

36373839404142434547

32-3/832-1/232-5/832-3/432-7/8

%833-1/433-1/233-3/4

20-1/220-1/220-1/220-1/220-1/220-1/220-1/220-1/220-1/220-1/2

&/ Tolerance for all measurements ~318 inch.~/ Breast measurements taken w$th coat buttoned, from folded edge to folded

edge in line with pit of armhole; multiply by two.~/ Back length measurement shall be taken along center ‘backseam, from lower

edge of collar to piped bottom edge of coat.~/ Sleeve length measurement shall be taken along forearm seam from pit of

m

armhole to bottom edge of sleeve.

*3.8 workmanshi~. me finished coats shall conform to the quality and gradeof product established by this specification. The occurrence of defectsshall not exceed the levels set by the applicable acceptable quality levels[AQL’s).

4. QUALITY ASSURANCE PROVISIONS

*4.1 Responsibiliq for ixa~~ection. Unless otherwise specifted in the con-tractor purchaseorderD the supplier is responsible for the performance ofall inspection requirements as specified herein. Except as okhetiise speci-fied innthe contract or order, the supplier may use his own or any other fa-cilities suitable ‘forthe performance of the inspectionrequirementsspeci-fied herein, ‘unlessdisapproved by thi(kwernment. The Governmentreservesthe right to perform any of the inspections set forth in the specificationwhere %ns-~ectiotisare deemed necessary to hssure suppli~s and seqdces con-form toptesdribed reqtiiretnents. ‘

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MIL-C-82172A(MC)

*4.1.1 Certificate of compliance. ~Jherecertificates of compliance are sub-mitted, the Government reserves the right to check test such items to deter- ●mine the validity of the certification.

*4.2 Inspection. Inspection shall be in accordance with the provisions setforth in MIL-STD-105, except where otherwise indicated herein.

*4.2.1 First article inspection. When first article is required, inspectionshall be performed on a completely fabricated coat for conformance to allprovisions of this specification. =

*4.2.2Component and material inspection. In accordance with 4.1 above, com-ponents and materials shall be tested in accordance with all the requirementsof referenced specifications, figures and standards unless otherwise excluded, ,.

amended, modified or qualified in this specification or applicable purchasedocument. In addition to testing provisions contained in subsidiary specifi-cations, figures and standards, testing shall be performed on componentslisted in Table 111 for characteristics noted. Wherever applicable, tests,shall be conducted in accordance with FED-STD-191. When the “Results reportedas” columns are not indicated, they shall be reported as required by the ref-erenced test method. All test reports shall contain individual values uti-lized in expressing the final results.

*4.2.2.1 Sampling for testing. Unless otherwise specified in subsidiaryspecifications, sampling shall be inshall be unacceptable if one or morequirement specified herein.

Lot size800 or less

accordance with the following. The lotsample units fail to meet any test re-

Sample size2

801 or,22,000 inclusive 322,001 and over 5

The unit for expressing lot sizes and sample unit for testing each componentshall be in accordance with applicable subsidiary specifications and asfollows:

Component Lot sizes expressed as Sample unit for testin~Cloth, cotton, buckram yards 2 yards full width(collar interlining)

Padding for collar yards 1/4 yard full widthHook and eye 100 each 2 each, hook and eye

,:*4.2.2.2 In-process inspection. Inspection shall be performed during manu-facturing of the end item to ascertain that the operations are performed asspecified herein. The Government reserves the right to determine the accepta-bility of construction methods not performed in accordance with specified re-quirements for operations or subassemblies.


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MIL-C-82172A(MC)

*4.2.3 Examination of end item. The end item shall be examined for defects

listed in 4.2.3.2 through 4.2.3.5. The sample unit shall be one coat.

*4.2.3.1 Classification of defects. All defects shall be classified as in-

dicated below, except those with an asterisk (*) in classification column

which shall be classified as follows:

Major

Minor

4.2.3.2

defect - When seriously affecting appearance or serviceability.A defect - When affecting appearance or serviceability but not

seriously.

General defects” General defects shall be classified as follows:

Classification

Major (*) MinorExamine Defect AB

Buttonholes a. One or more omitted, added or(construction) wrong type.

b. Not corresponding to size ofbutton:- too small,not permitting button

to enter buttonhole.too large, 3/8 inch or morelonger than the diameter ofbutton (measured at inside ofpurling).

c. Buttonhole not securely caught onfabri~ causing stitching to pullaway from fabric.

d. Bartack missing or loose on:one buttonhole.

- two or more buttonholes.

e. Bartack misplaced not servingintended purpose on:one buttonhole.


f. One or more broken stitches in:

one buttonhole.- two or more buttonholes.

g“ More than 2 skipped stitches in:one buttonhole.


x

x

x

x

xx,

x

xx

x

,..:

x

x

65


MIL-C-82172A(MC)

ClassificationMajor (*) Minor

Examine Defect AB

h. Ragged edges, affecting appearance,

or exposed interlining not coloredwith reddish indelible ink.

x

x

x

Any uncut buttonhole. >

Gimp omitted in one or more button-holes or ends of gimp not pulledthrough to underside.

I

I

I

I

.

k. Stitches per buttonhole (not in-cluding bartack) less than theminimum specified):- one or two stitches- three or more stitches.

xx

One or more buttonholes finishedwith purling on the underside.

I 10i

●j

x

One missing, loose, broken, defectiveor improper size or type.

Buttons or a.ring toggles x

b. Two or more missing, loose,defectiveor improper size or type. x

IOne or more buttons sewn with thehead of the eagle in other thanupright position.

c.

x IiNOTE : Buttons shall be considered defective if they have sharp, rough,

cracked, or split edges; unsound soldering; scratches; dents; blemishes orimbedded foreign matter; loose shanks; or are poorly plated or badly shaded.

Cleanness a. One or more spots or stains.of apermanent nature. clearly noticeable:

on the outside. x- on the inside. x

b. One or more removable,spots orstains clearly noticeable:- on the outside.-on the inside.

xx

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MIL-C-82172A(MC)

e ClassificationMajor (*) Minor .

Examine Defect AB

c. Threads ends not trimmed through-

Components and a...

assembly

,. b.

Cutting

a Eyelets

a.

b.

c.

a.(construction)

b.

c.

d.

e.

f.

out garment, or one or morebastings not removed, or two ormore shade tickets not removed.

Any component part or requiredoperation omitted (unless other-wise classified herein). *

Any defective component or defectof assembly (not herein classified). *

Any component part of basic woolmaterial not cut in accordance withdirectional lines on patterns or inaccordance withquirements.

Piping material

Any lining part

specification re-

cut on the bias.

not cut in accordancewith directional lines on patterns,or in accordance with specificationrequirements.

One or more omitted or added.

Wrong type.

Eyelet not securely caught on fabric,causing stitching to pull away fromfabric. x

Diameter of inside opening lessthan 1/8 inch or more than 1/4inch.

One or more eyelets uncut.

One or more broken stitches in:- one eyelet.- two or more eyelets.

x

x

x

x

x

x

x

x-

1,

67


MIL-C-82172A(MC)

ClassificationMajor (*) Minor ●

g*

h.

a.

b.

c.

d.

e.

a!

b.

c.

d.

e.

Examine Defect AB

More than two skipped stitches

Hooks and eyes

Material defectsand damages

in one or more eyelets.

One or more eyelets finished withpurling on the underside.

One hook or eye omitted.

Two or more hooks or eyesomitted.

Not specified type or size.

Hook or eye not securely tackedto ends of collar.

Not aligned, causing collar endsto be uneven by 1/4 inch or morewhen ’frontis”buttoned and,hookaand eyes are fastened.

1

Any weakening defect, such assmash, multiple float, and looseslub.

Any hole.

Shade bar, unsightly slub, etc.,affecting appearance:- on outside.- on inside.

Scissors or knife cut, tear, mendor burn;

Needle chews that may develop into

x

x

x

x

x

x

x

*

*

*

x

*

a hole. *

-.

.

1 NOTE : Material defects and workmanship damages are to be classified as

indicated above only when the-condition is one which definitely weakens thefabric or when it is so conspicuously located-as to be clearly noticeable.Weakening or nonweakening conditions which are inconspicuous and have negli-

gible effect on serviceability are to be classified as follows: ..

Material defect No defectWorkmanship damages Minor B defect

68

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MIL-C-82172A(MC)

e ClassificationMajor (*) Minor

Examine Defect AB

Pressing a. *

b.

c.

G d.

e.●.

f.

h.

i.

jg

k.

1.

m.

Seams and a.

stitchings

..

Burned or scorched.

Pressing omitted entire garment.

Armhole stretched.

Poorly pressed (unless otherwise

indicated).

Basting or pressing impressions notremoved on major portion of coat.

Gloss not removed on major portionof coat.

Armholes,not blocked or poorly

blocked, affecting appearance.

Edges bulky, i.e., not pressed

solid, affecting appearance.

Inside of armhole not creased asrequired.

Sleeve not creased at front or

backarm seam.

Wrinkles or pressing impressionsnot removed under side or centerback seam allowance.

Linings not pressed smooth.

Armhole seam not pressed openacross top as required.

Accuracy of seaming:1. Any seam twisted~ puckered or

pleated, affecting appearance.2. Part of garment caught.in any

unrelated operation or.stitching.

3. Unsightly hand felling or blind-

sti.tching exposed on outside of

coat, affecting appearance.

x

*

x

x

x

x

x

x

x

x

x

x,

x

*

x

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MIL-C-82172A(MC)

I


Examine Defect AB4. ~ds of all stitching (when not

caught in other seams or stitch-ing) not backpacked or back-stitched as required.

5. Wrong color of thread or twoshades of thread used on out-side of coat, affectingappearance.

b. Gage of stitching (edge or raisedstitching):1. Irregular, i.e., unevenly gaged,

or various stitchings not uni-form, affecting appearance.

I 2. Beyond range of width specifiedor varies more than 1/16 inchwhen no range is specified.

c. Open seams:1. On outside:

up to 1/4 inch inclusive.more than 1/4 inch but notmore than 1/2 inch.

- more than 1/2 inch.2. On inside:

more than 1/2 inch (exceptmachine felling).up to 1/2 inch inclusive(except machine felling).up to 1 inch inclusive(machine felling).more than 1 inch (machinefelling).

x

*

x

x

x

xx

x

x

x

x

stitches or two or more continuous skipped orNOTE: One or more brokenrun-off stitches constitute an open seam.

d. Raw edges:1. On outside:

up to 1/8 inch inclusive.more than 1/8 inch but notmore than 1/4 inch.

- more than 1/4 inch.2. On inside:

- rnore.than1/8 inch but notmore than 1/4 inch.

- more than 1/4 inch.

x

xx

xx

.

..

70


MIL-C-82172A(MC)

@ClassificationMajor (*) Minor

Examine Defect AllNOTE: Raw edges shall be classified as such when they occur at places

where an edge is required to be turned under. RSW edges not caught in stitch-

.

ing

the

shall be classified as an open seam.

e. Run-offs (see classification ofopen seams).

f. Stitch tension:1. Loose tension resulting in

loose seam.2. Loose tension on raised or

edge stitching,resulting inloosely exposed bobbin ortop thread. x

3. Tight tension (stitches breakwhen normal strain is applied). X

NOTE: Puckering is evidence of tight tension. men puckering iS evident,inspector shall test seam by exerting pull in lengthwise direction of seam.

g. Stitches per inch (excludinglabels).1. Less than minimum specified:

one or two stitches. x- three stitches. x- four or more stitches. x

NOTE: To be scored only if condition exists

h.

i.

.

+.Shaded parts a.

b..,.’.,

Stitch and seam type:1. Wrong stitch or seam

on major portion of seam.

type. x

Stitching skipped or broken (onedge or raised stitching when seamis seamed, turned and stitched):- 1/4 inch or more but not more

than l/2”inch.-more than 1/2 inch.

.,.,

Any,outside part shaded?

+y l&ing part ba&:,ghaded except,Q,eeye lining.., . ., .:<‘.<

xx

*

x

‘-71


MIL-C-82172A(MG)

ClassificationM~jo~ (*) Minor

Examine Defect AB

c. Sleeve liningparts badly shaded,orparts not matchingea”chother. x

4.2,3.3Detaileddefects (outsideof coat). Detaileddefecteon outsideofcoatwith coat buttoned,on form shall be classifiedas follows:

ClassificationMajor (*I Minor

Emmine Defect AB

Collar (cori- a.structionandsetting) b.

...Interlin& omitted. x

Interliningtight or twiste~causingpuckerson collar,affectingappear-ance. x

Tight at joiningto front or back,causingpuckersor pleats at neckof coat, affectingappearance.

c.

I *

Pipingirregular,affectingappearance.

d,x

x

I

Collar ends overlappingwhen fastened.e.

f. Collarends spreadopen more than 3/8hch when fastened. x

Front finishedends of collarunevenin width by 3/16 inch or more.

g.x

I h..

i.

One ply of outer basic material. x

Bindingstrip at top or bottomedge of interliningomitted. x

j. Bindingstrip at top or bottomedge of interliningother th~materialspecified. x

k. Bindingstrip at top edge of inter-liningpositionedmore than 1/8inch beyond top edge of piping onouter ply of collar.

....1

Ix

x

1. Bindingstrip at top edge of inter-liningirregularIn width,affectingappearanceor not exposedbeyond topedge of piping on outer ply of collar,

●72

I


I

I

I

I

II

I

II

I

..

,,,

MIL-C-82172A(MC)


Examine Defect AB

m. Collar irregular in width by

n.

1/4 inch or-more.

Center of eyeletsends of collar:- less than 1-3/8less than 1-1/4

- more than 1-5/8more than 1-3/4

- less than 1-1/41-3/4 inches.

from finished

inches but notinches.inches but notinches.inches or more than

x

x

xx

o.

P*

Alignment of a.front buttonsand buttonholes

Length of a.buttoned fronts

xx

x

x

x

b.

c.

Shoulder a.(construction)

Shoulder pads a.

b.

I

One or both eyelets off-centerwith top and bottom edges ofcollar by more than 1/4 inch.

Collar off-center by more than3/8 inch.

Not aligned, causing a noticeablebulge or twist on fronts whenbuttoned, affecting appearance.

Left frontat corner shorter thanright front at bottom by:more than l/8.inch but notmore than 1/4 inch.more than 1/4 inch.

....

Left front at corner longer thanright front by:- more than 1/4 inch but not ,more than 3/8 inch. “ x

- more than 3/8 inch. xRight front at corner e~osedbeyond bottom edge of left’frontby more than’1/8 imch. x

Improperly’joined or set,causiug ‘“sho”ulder,s’or”back”to’,~wist. *

,. ..

Not completely caught:;iri”’a&holetacking? , ..:,:.’.,,.,’:!:..:.~,.” x

Misplaced,not““ke~ing’the~riteridedpurpose, i.e., too farback or toofar forward. x

73,j:.


I1

MIL-C-82172A(MC)

Classification~jor (*) Mi~~r

Examine Defect AB

c. One or both pads omitted. x

Shoulder straps a. Misplaced, i.e., one strap furtherforward or back from position ofother strap, affecting appearance.

b.

c.

d.

e.

f.

h.

II

Misplaced, so that it will not lieflat when buttoned, causing bulgeor Mst on strap.

Poorly shaped.

Shoulder seam exposed beyond backedge of shoulder strap (exceptrounded end).

Width of shoulder strap at armholeseam (including piping):- less than 2-1/4 inches but notless than 2-1/8 inches.

- more than 2-1/2 inches but notmore than 2-5/8 inches.

- less than 2-1/8 inches ormore than 2-5/8 inches.

Width of shoulder strap acrosscenter of buttonhole eyelet(including piping):- less than 1-5/8 inches but not

less than 1-1/2 inches.more than 1-7/8 inches but notmore than 2 inches.

- less than 1-1/2 inches ormore than 2 inches.

x

x

x

x

x

x

x

x

-.

.

Rounded end of shoulder strappositioned less than 1/4 inchor more than 3/8 inch fromcollar edge.

... 1x

I

Pipingirregular in width, ~

affecting appearance. x .-’-

74


I

I

I

I

t

I

MIL-C-82172A(MC)

@ClassificationMajor (*) Minor

Examine Defect AB

i. Upper side of strap full or. .twiste~ affecting appearance. ox

.

Position of a.shoulder strap.button andbuttonl@e

b.

d.

—Armholes a..(Comcruction)

be

62.

....<.

Back edge of strap less than1/4 inch or inorethan 1/2inch from shoulder seam atarmhole.

Button not aligned with button-hole causing a bulge or twiston strap or puckers on shoulders9affecting appearance.

?ih+ttonsnot uniformly set by

more than 1/4 inch,

Buttonhole $/4 inch Qr moreoff Csntero

x

x

x

x

T.apedj$oo tight, kauskg’@d&@~g-axQtnrd aish~le

seaim9’’’,~ie,ii@g@g appear-ancti. -““ *

... .,.

Ciooked”se,am,.af$ect$tng “appe~rance. ,4 x,..’.

‘bps Stttchilag@xposq’dtid visibli on ’out+id~sti’rfafxi. ..’.

.,..; .’: ,:. ., ,.:,,

,. ,.,,-’,:’.,-:.,

x

x

75.


I

IMIL-C-82172A(MC)


_@uunine Defect AB

e. Sleeve head pads not complete-

Sleeves

I

ly tacked to armholes, or mis-placed,not serving intendedpurpose.

f. One or both sleeve head padsomitted.

a. Setting and hang:1. Sleeve fullness misplaced,

affecting appearance.2. Backarm seam of sleeve

not matching side backseam by:more than 1/4 inch butnot more than 1/2inch.

- more than 1/2 inch.3. Hang of sleeves on the

same coat in oppositedirection b~ morethan 2 inches.

4. Sleeve tight in armhole,i.e., roll effect notpresent.

b. Sleeve lining:1.

2.

3.

4.

5.

Twisted,-tight, or short,causing bulge, twist,or puckering on outsideof sleeves.Sleeve lining too long,causing lining to sagat bottom more than1/2 inch.

Sleeve lining seams outof alignment more than3/4 inch with sleeveseams at armholes or atbottomof sleeves.Cutdart on undersleeveomitted.One or both dartsnotpressedflat.

76

x

x

x

x

i

..

*

x

.,.

x

x


eMIL-C-82172A(MC)


Examine Defect AB

c. Construction of sleeves:

.

1.

2.

...3.

4.

5*

Wigan twisted, tight orpleated, causing ridgesor puckering on outside ofbottom of sleeves, affect-ing appearance.Tacking on bottom turnup

to body of sleeve omittedor insecure.Sleeve bottom edge unevenby more than 1/4 inch.Tacking on one or bothsleeve lining seams tosleeve seams omitted, orinsecure.Bottom edge of sleeveMningt urnup less than 1inch or more than 1-1/4inches up from bottom edgeof sleeve.

d. Ornamental sleeve pieces:

0“

1. Piping irregular, affect-ing appearance.

2* Ornamental piece stitchedto sleeve too full ortwisted, affecting appear-ance.

3. Length of ornamental piece(including piping):- less than 5-7/8 inchesbut not less than 5-5/8inches.

- more than 6-1/8 inchesbut not more than 6-3/8 inches.

- less than 5-5/8 inchesor more than 6-3/8 inches;....

4. Width at top and bottompoints (including piping):less than 2-3/8 in&~but not less than 2-1/8

x

x

x

x

x

x

x

x

x

x

inches. xmore than2-5/8 inchesbut not more,than 2-7/8inches. xleas than 2-1/8 inchesor more than 2-7/8,inches. x

77


MIL-C-82172A(MC)

I

ClassificationMajor (*)Minor

Examine Defect AB5. Width at centerpoint

(includingpiping):- less than 2-5/8 inchesbut not less than 2-3/8inches. x

- more than 2-7/8 inchesbut not more than 3-1/8inches”.’” x

- less than 2-3/8 inchesor more than 3-1/8 ~nchee.

6. Poorly shaped,affecttngappearance.

7.,S&t cm crookedly affect-ing appe?~a~ce.

8. Misplaced,i.i., one pieceftirtherfotiaFdcm back,fromposiiioka:~fother

“’piecegaffecting appearance....,.. r.

9. Bottom edge nbt horizontalwith bottom edge Of sleeveby mwrti?tharkX/.8~nch.

,..,.,.io; Cl&mgnta~,piece stitched to

,-.. . . ,deeve withpcninted., endsto-

,. ..e;

,,

“!...

...-...”

ward fore.gm seam of sleeve. x,.

Posittonof buttc)nsOn OZlta-

mental $ieces. (measurements

&de’.fP,mn cen’ter,cifb~tton]:~.’”’Fromt~p tin~b~ttom edges

(includingpiped edge):- L@ss khan 3/4 inch batnot less”than 1/2 inch.

- more’tban””linch but notmore ‘thait”i-1{4 inches.

-<less than 1/2 inch or., “morethan-l-l/4inches.

2. ‘Eop...orbottom button from,. scal&ope~ gdge.including

x

x

x

x

x

x

x

x

x

x

x


MIL-C-82172A(MC)

e ClassificationMajor (*) Minor

Examine Defect AB3. Center button from pointed

.

Body (outside)

Chest darts

a,

b.

a.

b.

edge (including piped edge):- less than 7/8 inch but notless than 5/8 inch. x

- more than 1-1/8 inchesbut not more than 1-3/8inches. x

- less than 5/8 inch or morethan 1-3/8 inches. x

4. Center button not in line withpointed edge by more than 1/4 inch.

x

Fitting of body lining:

1. Tight, short, or Msted,causing fullness or twiston outside of coat, affect-ing appearance. *

Fitting of frontinterlinings:

d.

1 ‘=r e.

x

c.

I

10

2.

One

Tight, short, or Msted,causing fullness or twiston outside of coat, affect-ing appearance. *

Too full, causing coatfront to have a vavyappearance. *

or both omitted. x

i’1 Waistdarts a.

b.

c.

Ends of one or both darts notproperly tapered,causing bulgeor fullness, affecting appear-ance.

Darts not of uniform length by1/4 inch or more. x

Cut edges of dartnot turnedtowardsarmhole.

Not pressed smoth andeffecting 8~earance.

Oneor bothomitted.

x

flat,x

x

Topor lowerendon oneor bothdartsnot properly tapered,caue-ing bulge or fullness, effectingappearance. x

Length of darts n6t *form in ‘.length by 1/4 inchormore. x

79

1.. . .


MIL-C-82172A(MC)


Examine Defect AB ●d. Folded edge not pressed toward

Ornamental frontbraid (position,construction andsetting)

.:

e.

f.

a.

b.

c.

d.

side seam. x

Not pressed smooth and flat. x

Alignment of both waist darts:- top or bottom end out of hori-

zontal ali~ment by 1/4 inch xor more

One or more rows of braid omittedor added. x

One or more rows of braid on leftfront not horizontally aligned withcorresponding row on right frontby more than 1/2 inch. x

One or more rows of braid notformed with a figure 8. x

Diameter of figure 8 circle lessthan 27132 inch or more than7/8inch.

Stitching of one or more rows ofbraid not started or ended asindicated by Figure 6.

Stitching on one or more rows ofbraid not uniform in width,affecting appearance.

x

e.

x

f.

g*

h,

i.

k.;,...~:;,.

1.

Ends of stitching on one or morerows of braid not securely tacked.

One or more rows of braid not lyingsmooth,’i.e., puckered, twisted,pleated or having excessive full-ness, affecting appearance.

. .

One or more .rowsof-braid set ontighq causing puckers, twists or

-.

pleats-onfront. ~~~ .. ‘ *..’.:~3:-..:. : :

Braid not pressed smooth or flat.<.

x. .-:.. ;.!;:,._\,:.,,..,,..,,,,,. -;: .:.” .’ “.:>.;.+

Braid loop around one or more‘“-buttonholesnot+ropezl~ positioned,.zestric’ting::use:of the buttonhole. x.“..”.!, :.:..;-...’.,,.. .,:

Front edge of.one o~.more rows ofbraid on left front finished less

x

x

*

I


MIL-C-82172A(MC)


Examine Defect AB

m. Any row of braid on left frontout of vertical alignment bymore than 1/8 inch. x

xI

II

II

I

III

I

I

I

1

II

i1

!

Front and a.bottom edges

Front edges stretched, affectingappearance.

b. Tape or piping set on tight,causing puckering on front,affecting appearance. x

x

..

Front or bottom piping irregular,affecting appearance.

c.

d. Bottom edge stretched, puckered,or uneven, affecting appearance. x

Bottom corner of left front pOOrlyshaped, affecting appearance.

e.x

*

x

f. Left front rolling outward belowbottom button.

Front edge irregular, affectingappearance.

Piping tight on front or bottomedge, causing puckering outsideof coat, affecting appearance. x

xLeft front not dressed as specified.i.

Short, tight or twisted, causingfullness or twists on fronts,affecting appearance.

Front a.

facings*

Back side a.panel seams

Curved panel seam on back of coatstretched or distorted, affectingappearance. x

x

.-Belt loops a.(construction

* and position)

Poorly shaped or not of uniformshape or size, affecting appear-

ance.

81


MIL-CG82172A~C].

ClassificationMajor (*] Minor

Examine Defect h“ ‘Bb. “--Pointed end of one or both loops

c.

d.

e.

f.

h.

Belt loop a.

buttonhole andbutton (positionand button attach-ment)

b.

c.

d.

1 e.

Cut opening for a.

Ibelt loop buttons

b.

not ~oward top of coat.

Bottom end of one or both loopsout of horizontal a~$gnment withbottom front button~ole by:- more than 3/4

,more than 31$

One or both notside seam.

One or both noti.e., set on anappearance.

inch below or

inch above,

stitched on the

x

x

x

vertically straightsangle, affecting

x

Alignment of both loops:- top or bottom end out of

horizontal alignment bymOT@ than 1/4 inch.

One or more edges not prope~lyforced out, i.e., having a fold orlip of 1/8 inch or more.

Bottom of loop not centered on sfdeseam by more than 1/4 inch.

Button not aligned with buttonhole,causing a bulge or twist on loopor puckers on coat, affectingappearance.

Buttons no; uniformly set by morethanl/4 inch.

Buttonhole 1/4 inch or more off

center.

Buttonhole from pointed end of loop:,- less than 1/2 inch or more than

3/4 inch.

Reinforcement disc beneath one orboth buttons omitted.

One or both omitted.

Opening not constructed vertically.

x

x

x

?,,

x

x

x

‘x

x

x

x

82


I1i

1

I

I

!

I

I

I

eMIL-C-82172A(MC)’ . ‘

“Classification ‘.,t Major (*) Minor

Examine Defect AB

.,

.T

@

“,.’

.

$......

c.

d.

e.

J?rontbuttonholes a.(position)

b.

d.b.,. c,.

Front bUttOIIS a.

(position).,

b.

:..,,,,,,.,:,

One ormore ends on one or bothopenings “not securely tacked.

Opening constructed through bodylining.

Misp~aced, i.e., more than 1/4inch from marks indicatedbypatt@rns”or no”tpositionedonside seam.

Positionfrom front edge includingpiped edge:- “lessthan $12 inch but pot less

than 318 inch or moq,ethan 3/4 sinch but not more than 7/8 inch.

- less than 3/8,Lnckaor more than

7}8 IbM1. ‘ ‘.,,,.

More than 1/4inchfrom equalspacing.

Top:or”b6ttom btittonholkpositionedmore than 1/2 inkh from patternmarks. .,

Unevenly,spaced .$Fom.front,edge,~ymore than”3/M inch...,.

Out of vertical alignment by 1/4tnchormore. t‘.” ‘.

:.. . ...

Center of top ‘buttonriotin vert%-cal alig~ment,w$th:~ight epd ofcollar”by 1/4 inch or more.

i.’ :.,.~

x

x

x

x

x

x

x

x

x

*4.2.3.4 Detaileddef&cts (ins%de’bfe6at.).~’’DetatX@d defects on inside ofcodk shall be classified as follows:

.-. ,,.,~...c.,,

., ... . >,;:., ,,. ,;. : : ,,. ,. ... ,:.. * Classification“’,’-:,::’, .,-, :,J.:.,! Major (*) Minor

Examine *’:‘:<defect‘-”- ; ‘.:’‘..-,.,,.-.

AB... ...2. . .. ,

Right front eyelet a. Front raw edgesnot stttched to-

cover (constructionp ;, gg?th!$rpE$or,-tQ<s~*~g:,:Q;:yight.:..presence and x‘-:.ficigg:;d;;:.:.‘“’:-,:;’,. ‘m>,: .,...-,.;,~..,Dosition)

.j>.:~. ,.

b. Upper or Imwr seamed edge nothand felled to facing. x

c. Upper or lQwer seam edge not se-curely handetitchedto facing. x

de Omitted.


I

MIL-C-82172A(MC)

●Classification

Major (*)MinorExamine Defect AB

e. Front corner of eyelet

Labels

Hanger

f.

a.

b.

c.

d.

a.

b.

C9

d.

coverexposededge of right

Frontedge ofless than 1/4than 3/4 inchedge of right

beyondupperfront. x

cover positionedinchor morein from frontfront. x

Any requiredlabelmissing,incorrect,illegible,or sizelabelnot securelycaughtinstitching.

Identificationlabelnotstitchedon 4 sides.

Bottomedge of identificationlabelless than 3 inchesor morethan5 inchesfrombottomfin-ishededge of coat.

Identificationlabelnot stitchedto outsideof rightfacing.

Hangeromittedor endsnot se-curelystitched.

Less than1-7/8inchesor morethan 2-1/8incheslongmeasuredalongthe loweredge of collarlining.

Hangernot stitchedto neck ofcoatprior to seamingcollartoneck of coat.

Finishedwidthless than 1/4inch or more than 3/8 inchwide.

x

x

x

x

x

84


e MIL-c-82172A(MC)


Examine Defect ABFront facings a. Fullness or pleats on facings

c. b.

● Body linings

c.

d.

a.

b.

c*

d.

e.

f.

~*

h.

1.

between eyelets, buttonholes, orbetween front edge and eyeletsor buttonholes.

Tacking on back edge to 1 orboth interlinings:- omitted.- insecure or incomplete for adistance of more than 4-1/2inches below shoulder seams, ormore than 4 inches above bot-

X

x

tom edge of coat.

Felling at bottom edgefacing or back edge ofomitted or insecure onboth facings.

of frontfacingone or

x

Felling along folded edge of oneor both facings at collar notchomitted or insecure.

Excessive puckering or pleated.

Twisted,not affecting smoothnesson outside of coat.

One or both chest pleats onshoulders omitted.

Folded edge of 1 or both chestpleats facing front edge of coat.

Pleat omitted at center of backlinfng. ~

Pleat less than 1/2 inch in depthat center of back lining.

@ttom hem less than 5/8 inch or❑ore than7/8&nchwide.

Liningtoolong,i.e.,exposedbe-yondbottomedgeof coat.

Facing-liningseam,sideseamsand-sidebackseamsnotto-rdsbackor notpressed smooth and flat.

x

x

x

x

x

x

x

x

x

x

●I

I/

85


MIL-C-82172A(MC)

Classification ●~...,,.. .. .. . . Major (*) MinorExmiirie Defect AB

j.: ,Waistdartsno? towards &he side“’seshs qr not pressed smooth and flat. x

Lining a, Oneor”both”’omittedor insecure. x(securirigstraps) b. Lessthan.1/4inchor morethan

x 73/8inc~;wlde..,

c, One.oT b~th posit&d more thanl,}nch,fkasi,d.~ seam. x

.,,,..,, .. .

Serge oroveredge

I stitching

I Underarmshields

I

I

‘“’d. ““End oq:”~ne’gi,bo~h~.~rap~notfiiis~ed ietwtietithe piping atbottom{edge of &o&tiand sideseqm::allowa,ce.v,,,. .,,

,, ,,e..,..@o;o$otbohot’hot‘fo,l&e~”&d.... ....!

stitched acre@-widthe :3...

f. .~g o~;bpth,not<pr~p~rly aetachedto’l*n@g.@ep.,or ‘coa<.causing:,:.t,,‘.......tw$st.,or.dl~guxtionRo,.eieherthe l~ning or coat.

,:..:. ..:-,,,. ,. s ,.

t3. One M iiotki exposed”ii’iycmd,,.:.,bottom;edge.ofcoat.

,,.

a. Basic materhl;.. - omitted on one ‘or.moreraw

edges Eor..seamsjo$nlng

fronts and back where,.. Specified. ... ‘

,~.,,.,..,.,,:..,.-..,,,.,., j.

b, -Lining joined sesms:,-....,.”---- -,. otitted~~on,on&’@r”mor&

seams where specified:

x

x

x

x ●

x

x

x

x

x

x


I

I

I

t

t

@

MIL-C-8217ZA{MC) ““

,’.’

Classification. .Major (*) ~n&

,.

Examine Defect ~,: ~

e. Puckered, pleated, or twisted. x:.,..

f.

Inside of a.

armhole

Collar lining a.

extension pteceb.

collar Mlduugand eyeletcovers

d.

e,

f.

h.

One or both shields misplaced,. ; ...

not serving intended purpose. x,,.. . .

Backstitching at armpit of arm-hole from backarm seam of sleeve’ ‘to front edge of shield o~tted. x

,,Omitted.

..x,.,

Extending less than”l/2 inch ormore than 1 inch beyond left ,,end of collar.

Felling omitted or insecure atend or top edges.

St$tching at top,frontandbottomedges or across widthof collar (forming box stitch]tab omitted.

Ends of collar liningnotsecure-ly tmkd.

(he or both eyelet covers omitted.

One or both eyelet coversnotcovering eyelete

,’Wdth Of collareyeletleasthan1-5/8 inches or more than 1-7/8inches.

Felling on front edge and along.Iower.corner of one or botheyelet covers omitted.

Felling along lower corner ofone or both eyelet covers extend-ing for a distance of more than3/4 inch.

Top or bottom hook positionedless than 1/4 inch from top orbottom edges respectively ofcollar.

Remaining hook not positionedmidway between top and bottomhook.

87

x

x’

x

x

x

x

x

x

x

x

x

I


MIL-C-82172A(MC)

I

I

*4.2.365Finished measurements, Anymeasurementdeviatingfromnominaldimensionandtoleranceincludedin Table11 shallmeasurement defect. Sleeve lengths uneven by morescored as a size measurement defect.

be scoredas a sizethan1/2inchshallbe

*4.2.3.6InspectionlevelsandAQLIS. Inspection

pressed in defects per 100 units (DHU) shall be as

4.2.3.2 through 4.2.3.4

InspectionLevelIIof MIL-STD-1OS

AQL‘S Major

MajorTotalMinor

andMinorA (combined)Major,MinorA andB (combined)

4.2.3.5

Inspection Level S-3 MIL-STD-105

Oneclass

levelsand AQL’sex-follows:

1.5DHU10,0DHU40.0DHU

4.0 DHU

*4.2.4Examination of preparation for delivery requirements. An examina-tion shall be made to determine compliance with packaging, packing andmarking requirements of Section5 of thisspecification.Defects shall bescored in accordance with the list below. The sample unit shall be oneshipping container fully prepared for delivery with the exception that itneed not be sealed. Defects of closure listed below shall be examined onshipping containers fully prepared for delivery. The lot size shall be thenumber of shipping containers in the end item inspection lot. The inspec-tion level shall be S-2 and the AQL shall be 4.0 DHU.

ExamineMarking (exterior andinterior)

Materials

Workmanship

Content

DefectOmitted, incorrect, illegible, of improper size,location, sequence, or method of application.

Any component missing or damaged.

Inadequateapplicableof components,suchasincompleteclosureof caseliners,containerflaps,loosestrapping,inadequatestapling.Bulgingor distortionof containers.

Numberof coatspercontaineris moreor less Ithanrequired. t“

88


MIL-C-82172A(MC)

*4.3Tests. Tests shall be in accordance with the following:

*4.3.1 Metal composition. Chemical composition shall be determined inaccordance with test method III of FED-STD-151.

*4.3.2 Test for tackiness. At room temperature (60° to 80”F) press apiece of tissue paper against the lacquered surface for 30 seconds, usingany pressure capable of being exerted by the thumb and two fingers. Thetissue shall not adhere to the lacquered surface, but shall fall free whenpressure is released,~

*4.3.3 Quantity of gold and silver. At least two pieces, 1 yard each,shall be assayed for the quantity of gold and silver. The quantities of

.*gold and silver may be determined by standard commercial methods of assay,but in case of dispute, shall be determined in accordance with 4.3.3.1and 4.3.3.2, respectively.

*4.3.3.1 Gold content. Boil sufficient braid to bear 1 gram of alloy(accuratelyweighed) with 60 milliliters(ml) 1:1 nitric acid (HN03) in a400-ml beaker u=ing a small flame or hot plate. Continue boiling~until all

metals except the gold are in solution. Dilute to 200 ml with hot water.

Filter through a rapid ashless filter paper, and wash several times withhot water. Take the filter paper with the gold (cutting off any excess fil-

1ter paper), wrap in a 2-inch by 2-inch piece of silver-free lead foil, androll into a ball. Place the ball in the hollow of a bone ash cupel, and add

lead shot around the ball. Place cupel in a muffle furnace for 1 hour at

1,0000C. Remove from the furnace, and examine hollow for flakes of gold, im-

0

purities and discolored gold bead. If any are noticed, add additional lead

shot and return cupel to the muffle furnace for 1 hour. Otherwise, coolthe ~old bead and wei~h. The gold content shall be calculated us follows:

Gold Content =“W (Au)X 100= P (Au)Ws

Whereas: W(AU) - Weight of goldus - Weight of sampleP - Percent of gold

1 *4.3.3.2 Silver content. Dilute the filtrate, from 4.3.3.1 to a 1,000-ml

volumetric flask, and dilute to the mark. Pipette a 200-ml aliquot from the

flask into a 400-ml beaker. Heat to boiling, and add hydrochloric acid

(3:100) drop by drop from a pipette until precipitation is complete (1 ml of

‘) hydrochloric acid solution precipitates about 0.038 grams of silver). Whensolution has cooled and precipitate has settled, determine whether precipita-

1 ticm is complete by adding a few drops of the hydrochloric acid (3:100). IfII > solution remains clear, filter on a weighed porcelain Gooch crucible. Wash

the precipitate several times with HN03 (1:200) and finally with cold water.

I protect the silver chloride from the light, dry in an oven for not less than

I2 hours, cool and weigh. The silver content shall be calculated as follows:

II

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89


MIL-C-82172A(MC)

Silver Content = W(AgCl) X 752.63X5Ws

Whereas:

W(AgCl) = Weight of silver chloride

Ws = Weight of sample minus weight of gold

*4.3.3.3 Alloy content. Alloy content is ascertained by difference betweengold and silver content.5. PREPARATION FOR DELIVERY

k~,~ packaging and packing.Unless otherwise specified (see 6.2), thecoats shall be packaged in accordance with good commercial practice andpacked in a manner to insure carrier acceptance and safe delivery at des-tination. Containers shall be in accordance with Uniform Freight Classi-fication Rules or regulations of other carriers applicable to the mode oftransportation.

5.2Marking. In addition to any special marking required by the contractor order, the shipping containers shall be marked in accordance with therequirements of MIL-STD-129.

5.3 Moth repellency. Not less than 8 ounces of naphthalene, conforming

to class B of R-N-91,0r equal, shall be uniformly distributed throughoutthe entire contents<of shipping container, except when coats are made ofmoth repellent treated cloth.

6. NOTES.

6.1 Intended use. The coats described herein are intended for wear byenlisted male personnel of the U.S. Marine Corps Drum and Bugle Corps(Drum Major).

herein,

*6.2B~

*6.2 Orderingdata, Purchasersshouldexerciseany desiredoptionsofferedand procurement documents should specify the following:

Procurement requirements.

(a) Title,nwber anddateof thespecification.(b) Sizesrequired(see1.2).(c) ,~ether firstarticle is required(see3.2).(d) Number of coats in first article(see3.2).(e) Whencoatsshallnocbe packagedandpackedin accordance

with’commercial practice (see 5.1).

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*6.2!.2Contract.data requirements..Data conformingto DataItemDescriptionsDI-R-4803;DI-R-4805.DI-T-4901,DI-T-4902.DI-T-4903andDI-’E-4904willusuallybe requiredfordelive&in connectionwiththisso required,suchdatawillbe specifiedfordeliveryoneludedin thecontract.

specification.a DD Form 1423

Whenin-

90


i

MIL-C-82172A(MC)

6.3 Samples and shade samples. For information regarding availability ofsample coats and standard shades specified, address inquiry to the procuringactivity issuing the invitation for bids.

*604 First artic-eO First article examination, test and approval shall beas specified by the contracting officer (see 3.2).

*605 ~rginal notations. The margins of this specifications are marked withan asterisk to indicate where changes (additions~modifications, corrections,deletions) from the previous issue were made. This was done as a convenienceonly and the Government assumes no liability whatsoever for any inaccuracies inthese notations. Bidders and contractors are cautioned to evaluate the require-ments of this document based on the entire content irrespective of the marginalnotations and relationship of the last previous issue.

Preparing activityNavy- MC

Project No. 8405-N581

91


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M.C.S.A .826: R.G.E2 May 1971


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FIG.& .COAT, MA N’S:SCARLET,

DRUM AND BUGLECORPS; DRUM MAJOR97 nM. C.S. A.

826: RG.152 May 1974


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STANDARD1ZATIONIXIWIAENT IMPROVEMENT PROPOSALI

OMB ApprovalNO. 22-R255

INSTRUCTIONS: The purpose of this form is to solicit beneficial comments which will help achieve procure-ment of suitable products at reasonable coat and minimum delay, or will otherwise enhance uae of the document,DoD contractors, government activities, or manufacturers/ vendors who are prospective suppliers of the productare invited to submit comments to the government. Fold on lines on reverse side, staple in corner, and send topreparing activity. Comments submitted on this form do not constitute or imply authorization to waive anyportion of the referenced document(s) or to amend contractual requirements. Attach any pertinent data whichmay be of use in improving this document. If there are additional papers, attach to form and place both in anenvelope addressed to preparing activity.

)OCUMENT IDENTIFIER AND TITLE

JAME OF ORGANIZATION AND ADDRESS CONTRACT NUMBER

MATERIAL PROCURED UNDER A

n DIRECT GOVERNMENT CONTRACT m SU~CONTRAC

HAS ANY PART OF THE 00 CUMENT CREATED PROBLEMS OR REQUIRED INTERPRETATION IN PROCUREMENTUSE?A. GIVE PARAGRAPH NUMBER AND WOROt NG.

B. RECOMMENDATIONS FOR CORRECTING THE DEFICIENCIES

COMMENTS ON ANY DOCUMENT REQUIREMENT CONSIDERED TOO RIGID

IS THE DOCUMENT RESTRICTIVE?.

(g YE, a NO (If ●8YesSS, in what way?)

REMARKS

U❑MI TTED BY (Prfnted IX typed name and address - Optfonaf) TELEPHoNE NO.

DATE

— — —-

Dl) :::;21 426 S/N 0102 -O14-18UZREPLACES EDITION OF ! JAN 136 WHICH MAY BE USED

7i U.S. GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE: !972—714. S6S/3404 2.1


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Commanding General (826)Marine Corps Supply Activity1100 South Broad StreetPhiladelphia, Pennsylvania 19146

POSTAGE AND FEES PAID

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*DOD-317 US.MAIL

OFFICIAL BUSINESSPENALTY FOR PRIVATE USE S30G

I FOLD,,


Documents

I in the following - MIL-STD-188everyspec.com/MIL-SPECS/MIL-SPECS-MIL-C/download.php?spec=M… · MIL-C-82172A(MC) *3.3,14.3 COIOr and colorfastness. All thread shallbe scarlet,shadeW,