Canadian Jeweller - June/July 2011 Issue

PLUS: ALL THE LATEST MARKET NEWS, TRENDS & EVENTS

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JUNE/JULY 2011

Scan Me! to go to our

new CJ website

f o r t h e b u s i n e s s o f r e t a i l i n g j e we l l e r y s i n c e 1879

David and Darren Barthau of Barthau Jewellers, Stouffville, ON.

David and Darren Barthau of The FamilyIt Runs In

Baselworld 2011 Watchmakers celebrate recovery with a dazzling show

READER’SCHOICE COVER!

44% of voters!

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24 Gold Group Ltd.Gold Dealer & Refining Company

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swiss made.

self made.Sir Richard Branson Founder of Virgin Group.

THERE IS A MOMENT WHEN IMAGINATION BECOMES INNOVATION.Perhaps no one captures this moment more often than Sir Richard Branson. Of course, this

doesn’t happen by chance. It happens because he pursues vision. Relentlessly. That is why

he wears Bulova Accutron. The timepiece that reinvents accuracy time and again.

Bulova Accutron: Innovation never rests.

From the Gemini Collection

Sir Richard Branson’s proceeds from the photo shoot were donatedto Virgin Unite, Virgin’s non-profit foundation. www.virginunite.com

www.bulova.com

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27 Queen St, East, Suite 1100, Toronto, Ontario M5C 2M6T: 416.955.9415 • Toll Free: 800.216.0899 • F: 416.955.9621

www.midasjewelryinc.ca • Email: [email protected]

Whether your needs are simple or elaborate, let Midas be your Source for select Wedding Bands. We specialize in custom orders, small or large, and are positioned to increase your sales margins. At Midas, we manufacture in all

precious metals and also offer:

New 19K Extreme White© • Displays • Marketing Kits • Buy-back ProgramsIncentive Programs • Co-op AdvertisingFo

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27 Queen St, East, Suite 1100, Toronto, Ontario M5C 2M6T: 416.955.9415 • Toll Free: 800.216.0899 • F: 416.955.9621

www.midasjewelryinc.ca • Email: [email protected]

Whether your needs are simple or elaborate, let Midas be your Source for select Wedding Bands. We specialize in custom orders, small or large, and are positioned to increase your sales margins. At Midas, we manufacture in all

precious metals and also offer:

New 19K Extreme White© • Displays • Marketing Kits • Buy-back ProgramsIncentive Programs • Co-op Advertising

CJ.Jan11_Midas.indd 3 5/11/11 9:16:09 AM

And behind every great jeweller, there’s Stuller.

From the fashionably modern to the quietly classic, Stuller is the

bridal authority with the most up-to-date styles and solutions in

the industry. We offer a vast selection of bridal jewellery, mountings,

and components as well as unique selling tools for customization.

And our unparalleled customer service and overnight delivery always

keep you running smoothly. For a wealth of ideas and solutions, call

800-877-7777, or visit us at stuller.com. That’s the beauty of it all.

Visit us at JCK Las Vegas at PC-850 and ET&S 6265.

Behind every “It’s perfect,” there’s a great jeweller.

The DTC logo is a trademark used under license from DTC.

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And behind every great jeweller, there’s Stuller.

From the fashionably modern to the quietly classic, Stuller is the

bridal authority with the most up-to-date styles and solutions in

the industry. We offer a vast selection of bridal jewellery, mountings,

and components as well as unique selling tools for customization.

And our unparalleled customer service and overnight delivery always

keep you running smoothly. For a wealth of ideas and solutions, call

800-877-7777, or visit us at stuller.com. That’s the beauty of it all.

Visit us at JCK Las Vegas at PC-850 and ET&S 6265.

Behind every “It’s perfect,” there’s a great jeweller.

The DTC logo is a trademark used under license from DTC.

CJ_Stuller.indd 3 5/12/11 4:34:56 PM

Phone: 1.866.682.6823 Email: [email protected] Web: tiggroup.ca

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Phone: 1.866.682.6823 Email: [email protected] Website: tiggroup.ca

Diamond & Sterling Silver

Sterling Silver

18K Gold, Sterling Silver & Color

®

MEN’S COLLECTION

Ostbye_JBMagazine.indd 1 5/11/11 11:16 AMCJ_TIG Ostbye.indd 1 5/11/11 2:42:51 PM


HSS JewelleryExclusively Representedin Canada by TIG Group52 Hawthorne Ave, Suite 201, Ottawa Ontario, K1S 0B1Jewellery

The budget fo r th i s adwas r id icu lous ly low

i n o rder to pass -on thesav ings to you .

We w i sh tobr ing back pro f i tab i l i ty

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12 CJ j u n e / j u ly 2 0 1 1 | w w w . c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r . c o m

Jewellery, the experience of personal transformation and identity

EstablishEd 1879 june/july 2011 • vol. 132, no. 4

Olivier Felicio Editor-in-Chief | [email protected] lucy holden Associate Publisher | [email protected]

Carlos Weigle Editor | [email protected] Katherine low Copy Editor | [email protected]

Jessica Uniac Editorial Assistant | [email protected]

scott Jordan Art Director | [email protected] angie Gaal Design Intern | [email protected]

Elizabeth Valiaho Production Coordinator | [email protected]

Melanie seth Controller & Operations | [email protected] leslie Witol Finance Administrator | [email protected]

Matthew Pompey Web Programmer | [email protected] Poredos Sales Assistant | [email protected]

CONtRibUtORs

salEslucy holden

Jeff Yamaguchi

CiRCUlatiONGarth atkinson

head Office

Montreal Office

AssociAte publisher

tel. (416) 203-7900 ext. 6117

email [email protected]

ADVertisiNG sAles

tel. (416) 203-7900 ext. 6122


publicAtioN pArtNers

345 Kingston road, suite 101

pickering, ontario, l1V 1A1

toll free 1-877-547-2246


60 bloor street West, suite 1106

toronto, ontario, M4W 3b8

tel. (416) 203-7900 fax (416) 703-6392

555 chabanel street West, suite 1507

Montreal, Quebec, h2N 2J2

tel. (514) 381-5196 fax (514) 381-6223

toll free 1-888-358-8186 ext. 6117

subscription Ratescanada — one year, $185; two years, $175; three years $160. united states — one year, us$205. Foreign — one year us$205 (subscriptions include buyers’ Guide is-

sues.) 8% p.s.t. for Newfoundland, New brunswick and Nova scotia residents. single copies — $25; buyers’ Guide $40. bulk rates — six or more subscriptions, $17.50

per subscription per year (canada only).

Change of addressemail: [email protected] telephone: 1-877-547-2246 fax: 905-509-0735

or send your cover label and new address to canadian Jeweller c/o publication partners, 345 Kingston road, suite 101, pickering, oN canada l1V 1A1

Published by Rive Gauche Media ii inc.

canada post canadian publications Mail sales product Agreement No. 40678000. the publisher does not assume any responsibility for the contents of any advertisement and any and all representations or warranties made in such advertising are those of the advertiser and not of the publisher. the publisher is not liable to any advertiser for any misprints in advertising not the fault of the publisher and in such an event the limit of the publisher’s liability shall not exceed the amount of the publisher’s charge for such advertising. No portion of this publication may be reproduced, in all or part, without the express written permission of the publisher. canadian Jeweller magazine is pleased to review unsolicited submissions for editorial consideration under the following conditions: all material submitted for editorial consideration (photographs, illustrations, written text in electronic or hard copy format) may be used by canadian Jeweller and their affiliates for editorial purposes in any media (whether printed, electronic, internet, disc, etc.) without the consent of, or the payment of compensation to, the party providing such material. please direct submissions to the editor, canadian. return undeliverable items to rive Gauche Media, 60 bloor street West, ste. 1106, toronto, oN canada M4W 3b8.

Kelechi Achonu, carol besler, lorraine Depasque, Douglas hall, Deryck lewis, Duncan parker, Kelly ross, bonnie siegler, sarah Vincett, irina lytchak.

CMCAAUDITED

8 CJ J A N U A R Y / F E B R U A R Y 2 0 1 1 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m

Check our Website forMonthly Specials!

Phone

Email: [email protected]

1.800.663.6472Fax 1.800.316.2999

www.karatimports.com

ESTABLISHED 1879 VOL. 132, NO. 1

Olivier Felicio Editor-in-Chief | [email protected] Lucy Holden Associate Publisher | [email protected]

Carol Besler Consulting Editor Paul Aguirre Associate Editor | [email protected]

Scott Jordan Art Director | [email protected] Elena Viltovskaia Designer | [email protected]

Stacy Karjala Designer | [email protected] Elizabeth Valiaho Production Coordinator | [email protected]

Melanie Seth Controller & Operations | [email protected] Sunjoyo Tanto Web Programmer | [email protected]

Erin Poredos Sales Assistant | [email protected]

CONTRIBUTORS

SALESLucy Holden

Jeff Yamaguchi

Karolann Cassman

CIRCULATIONGarth Atkinson

Head Office

Montreal Office

ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER

TEL. (416) 203-7900 ext. 6117

EMAIL [email protected]

ADVERTISING SALES

TEL. (416) 203-7900 ext. 6122


ADVERTISING SALES

TEL. (416) 203-7900 ext. 6126


PUBLICATION PARTNERS

345 Kingston Road, Suite 101

Pickering, Ontario, L1V 1A1

TOLL FREE 1-877-547-2246


60 Bloor Street West, Suite 1106

Toronto, Ontario, M4W 3B8

TEL. (416) 203-7900 FAX (416) 703-6392

555 Chabanel Street West, Suite 1507

Montreal, Quebec, H2N 2J2

TEL. (514) 381-5196 FAX (514) 381-6223

TOLL FREE 1-888-358-8186 ext. 6117

Subscription RatesCanada — one year, $185; two years, $175; three years $160. United States — one year, US$205. Foreign — one year US$205 (Subscriptions include Buyers’ Guide is-

sues.) 8% P.S.T. for Newfoundland, New Brunswick and Nova Scotia residents. Single copies — $25; Buyers’ Guide $40. Bulk rates — six or more subscriptions, $17.50

per subscription per year (Canada only).

Change of Addressemail: [email protected] telephone: 1-877-547-2246 fax: 905-509-0735

or send your cover label and new address to Canadian Jeweller c/o Publication Partners, 345 Kingston Road, Suite 101, Pickering, ON Canada L1V 1A1

Published by Rive Gauche Media II Inc.

Canada Post Canadian Publications Mail Sales Product Agreement No. 40678000. The publisher does not assume any responsibility for the contents of any advertisement and any and all representations or warranties made in such advertising are those of the advertiser and not of the publisher. The publisher is not liable to any advertiser for any misprints in advertising not the fault of the publisher and in such an event the limit of the publisher’s liability shall not exceed the amount of the publisher’s charge for such advertising. No portion of this publication may be reproduced, in all or part, without the express written permission of the publisher. Canadian Jeweller magazine is pleased to review unsolicited submissions for editorial consideration under the following conditions: all material submitted for editorial consideration (photographs, illustrations, written text in electronic or hard copy format) may be used by Canadian Jeweller and their affiliates for editorial purposes in any media (whether printed, electronic, internet, disc, etc.) without the consent of, or the payment of compensation to, the party providing such material. Please direct submissions to the Editor, Canadian. Return undeliverable items to Rive Gauche Media, 60 Bloor Street West, Ste. 1106, Toronto, ON Canada M4W 3B8.

O�cial magazine of JVC

For details, write #106 on Free Info Page, page 80

Chris Davey, Lorraine DePasque, Martin Irving, John Lamont, Charles Lewton-Brian, Donna Jean MacKinnon, Duncan Parker, Lihn Pham, Dean Sanderson, Bonnie Siegler.

008.CJ_Masthead.indd 8 12/16/10 11:28:53 AM008.CJ_Masthead.indd 12 5/12/11 10:10:29 AM

For a free, no obligation quote, call Jewelers Mutual at 800-558-6411 or e-mail [email protected] | manufacturers | wholesalers | custom designers | repair business | appraisers | personal jewelry

Coverage you can count on. People you can count on.

thieves had meticulously planned every aspect

of their overnight burglary. fortunately for anita, she

had also planned carefully, protecting her business

with the one insurer who knows the jewelry industry

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watch anita tell her alarming story and learn more about

jewelers mutual coverage at

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anIta thIgPEn diamonds r forever, kennesaw, ga

“When we arrived that morning,

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blow torches they used to cut into the safes. they literally

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For details, write #106 on Free Info Page, page 96.

CJ_Jewelers Mutual.indd 1 5/11/11 9:21:20 AM


[FEATURES]46. Canada: a Gem nation Our country not only produces fine diamonds but also some other amazing stones.

52. it runs in the family Barthau Jewellers built its reputation on three generation of jewellers and watchmakers.

58. jewellery redefined 2011’s top trend ... with staying power for 2012.

66. a modern ClassiC Vintage themes and new technologies dominate Baselworld 2011.

78. Best Case sCenario A flurry of new materials and alloys represents a transformation of the way watches are cased.

82. jCk and Couture shows Excitement builds around new products debuting at the Las Vegas shows in June.

june/july 2011

52

78

66

Correction: Martin Irving – who wrote the mining feature in our April/May issue – is the Director of True North Gems.

You picked our cover! As a matter of fact, 44 per cent of you chose our current cover over three other options. If you’d like to pick our next one, make sure to vote at canadianjeweller.com.

010-012.CJ_Contents.indd 14 5/12/11 5:24:19 PM

J E W E L L E R T O D AY. S U P E R H E R O T O M O R R O W .

E X C L U S I V E L YE N D O R S E D B Y

Make your customers aware of Personal Jewelry Insurance from Jewelers Mutual Insurance Company and you just mightsave the day! To learn how you can share information about Jewelers Mutual’s Personal Jewelry Insurance program with your customers,

visit JewelersMutual.ca. To order materials, click the “Canadian retailers” link in the lower left corner of the homepage.

800-558-6411 • [email protected]

*Personal Jewelry Insurance not available in Québec.

P E R S O N A L J E W E L R Y I N S U R A N C E

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[DEPARTMENTS] june/july 2011

18. letter from the editor

20. Product showcase

28. star watch

32. who’s news

36. for the record

42. tight and bright Vector tightening is an excellent technique to put loose gemstones back in place.

64. a leaP of faith PAJ bets on Elle, a sterling silver fashion jewellery line, and it pays off, big time.

28

64

74. the colour of love Anita Agrawal creates timeless pieces with coloured gemstones.

80. the industry of fakes Counterfeit watches are boosting a US$650 billion criminal business.

87. showcase/marketPlace

96. fax back

98. last word

74

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letterfromeditor

Some might argue jewellery is not a necessity, and they would probably be right. Nobody actually needs jewellery – even if you think you do! However, we want jewellery, and desire has proven to be almost as powerful as necessity. We crave that special something that reflects who we are, that represents a defining moment, or that helps send a message about what we want in life.

A ring is passed from generation to generation and becomes a symbol of a family. A watch turns into a rite of passage into adulthood or proof of our career achievements. A necklace is all it takes for you to feel unique and turn heads at a significant event. We don’t need jewellery, that’s true. Nonetheless, we value it, sometimes more than any of the many objects that populate our lives.

It is that feeling that propels me into this great new adventure called Canadian Jeweller. As its new Editor, I am ready to be amazed and inspired by your stories, delighted by your jewellery and creativity. I’ll be your voice and your advocate.

What better way to start on this journey than to report on BaselWorld 2011 and the astonishing pieces that talk about long-gone days and a brave new future? Or to dive into the dazzling world of JCK Vegas, a show like no other, in a city like no other? Or to be humbled by the passion and dedication of three generations of Barthau jewellers?

Please join me. It will be an honour to be in your company.

Carlos WeigleEditor

Carlos Weigle

A bright new journey

Photography by McKenzie James; Styling by Kelechi Achonu; Makeup by Liz Robertson

014.CJ_EditorLetter.indd 18 5/16/11 3:05:21 PM

swiss chicswiss made

SWISS MADE - www.rodaniacanada.com

RODANIA CANADA INC.1255 University St., # 508Montreal, Qc., H3B 3V8

Tel.: 514 842-9136Fax: 514 842-9137Toll Free: 1-877-RODANIA (763-2642)[email protected]

Visit us at the Montreal Expo Prestige Jewellery showfrom the 28th - 30th of August - Booth # 619 - 623


CJ_Rodania.indd 1 5/11/11 9:24:56 AM


productshowcase

3. Pandora

This sterling-silver ring with a hand-carved pink shell rose is part of the

Pandora Ring Upon Ring collection. Wear this delicately detailed ring

alone or stacked with others in the collection to create your own look.

View the entire collection at pandora.net. For more information write 142

on page 96.

1. Stuller Summertime Style

Sleek styling and accessible price points make Ceramic Couture™

watches from Stuller the perfect gift for any occasion. Poised to drive store

sales, the contemporary metals jewellery collection features a variety of

designs for men and women in new White Dura Tungsten™ and Dura

Cobalt™, stainless steel, titanium, ceramic and Dura Tungsten™. For more

information write 140 on page 96.

2. nova

This butterfly inspired ring and earring set are now available at Nova

Diamonds. The earrings (ER8-1065) are beautifully set with 3.48 total carat

weight of brown diamonds and 21.47 total carat weight of smokey quartz in

18k rose and white gold. The matching ring (LF8-1701) is set with 2.44 total

carat weight of brown diamonds and 18.10 total carat weight of smokey

quartz. For more information write 141 on page 96.

4. elle Sterling Silver Jewellery

Timeless elegance and cutting edge style, ELLE Jewellery’s “Ambrosia”

collection features affordable pieces inspired by the world’s largest fashion

publication. Its pleasing assortment of cascading circles and droplets of sky

blue topaz and amethyst is also adorned with ELLE Jewellery’s signature

genuine ruby logo symbolizing a woman’s strength and beauty. For more

information write 143 on page 96.

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BUILD YOUR FUTURE CLIENTELEUnique Birthstone Collection for babies andyoung girls with superior quality productsthat are durable, attractive and safe. Lifetimewarranty on gold jewels.

3291 chemin Royal . Québec . QC . Canada . G1E 1V8 . 418.660.2909 . 1.888.660.3292

USA Patent 6158243 . CA Patent 2206353 . FR Patent 9807224

bfl y.ca

BUILD YOUR FUTURE CLIENTELEUnique Birthstone Collection for babies andyoung girls with superior quality products

Meet us at The JCK Las Vegas Show

Mandalay Bay Hotel and Convention Center, June 3-6 2011

Booth B5183

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productshowcase

1. Hong Kong Jewellery & gem Fair

The June and September editions of the show serve as a comprehensive

platform to advocate the jewellery trade every year. A strong track record of

excellence has made both events a prominent fixture in the global jewellery

trade’s events calendar. Save the date and plan your visit now! www.

JewelleryNetAsia.com. For more information, write 144 on the Free Info

Card on page 96.

4. ready mounts inc.

For the past 25 years we have provided our customers with superior

products and services. Proudly offering a large selection of engagement

and wedding bands, that features styles ranging from simple classics to

current designer trends. Our products are attractive, crafted in the highest

regard of quality and at a competitive price. For more information, write 147

on the Free Info Card on page 96.

3. PH design

The FINGERPRINT wedding band is a romantic metaphor for the love you

and your partner share for one another. Wear your love’s finger print as a

heartfelt expression of your devotion. For more information or a quote on this

unique design, call PH Design at 416 367-2870 or visit www.phdesign.ca. For

more information, write 146 on the Free Info Card on page 96.

1 4

2. see you in edmonton

For over 30 years, the Western Canadian Jewellery Expo (August 12-14, 2011)

has showcased the latest trends, packaging, equipment and technology for

the jewellery industry. In one of the best economic regions in North America,

the Expo is considered to be the top writing jewellery show in Canada. Visit

www.wcjexpo.com. For more information, write 145 on the Free Info Card

on page 96.

3

2


PH DESIGN | 149 CHURCH STREET | 2ND FLOOR | TORONTO, ONTARIO | M5B 1Y4(416) 367-2870 | [email protected] | WWW.PHDESIGN.CA

C OLOUR THEORYMake sure y our a ccessories a re jus t a s

b ri ght as your Spring Wardrobe .

Colour is one of the strongest fashion trends this Spring and our extensive inventoryof coloured gemstones and diamonds can complete your perfect look.

At PH Design, our full service workshop can produce a single ring or a large complicated order with ease. With over 25 experienced jewellery craftsmen whose specialities include custom

design, the creation of waxes, moulds and CNC generated jewellery,your order will go out on time and on budget.

Let PH Design be a solution provider for your most complicated custom orders. For moreinformation, please schedule an appointment or visit us online at www.phdesign.ca.


CJ_PH Design.indd 1 5/11/11 9:29:27 AM


productshowcase

1. Happy Customers return

Order your FREE jeweller guide today to discover the benefits of the

Personal Jewelry Program from Jewelers Mutual Insurance Company – the

only company specializing exclusively in jewellery insurance in the United

States and Canada*. Learn how this unmatched program can strengthen

your business. For details, write 148 on the Free Info Card on page 96.

*not available in Quebec

2. proteCt yourself

Order Jewelers Mutual Insurance Company’s Security Guide for Retail

Jewellery Businesses today! This guide will help you reduce your risk of

theft. Exclusively endorsed by the Canadian Jewellers Association, Jewelers

Mutual is the only company specializing exclusively in jewellery insurance

in the U.S. and Canada. Visit JewelersMutual.ca or call 800-558-6411. For

details, write 149 on the Free Info Card on page 96.

32

4. Image fIftH avenue

Classic ladies’ bracelets with a modern look in 18k white and yellow gold,

can be worn for any occasion. Not only do they look good, but they also

feel good on the wrist. For more information write 151 on page 96.

1

3. Bulova flIes HIgH

The limited-edition Bulova Accutron Conqueror, inspired by the famous

Lone Eagle timepiece that Bulova awarded to Colonel Charles A. Lindbergh

in 1927, when he became the first person to complete a solo non-stop flight

across the Atlantic. Individually numbered. Model 63B152. Suggested

retail, $4,900. For details, write 150 on the Free Info Card on page 96.

4

5. gold, 24/7

For the most accurate gold pricing, turn to 24 Gold Group Ltd. Specializing

in real-time gold pricing, clients are given the most precise, right up to the

second, pricing possible. Visit 24gold.ca twenty-four hours a day, seven

days a week, for the most exact gold pricing available or call 416-214-2443.

For more information, write 152 on the Free Info Card on page 96.


Printing, growing and milling of your files. Design services also available.

In stock finished mounts and semi mounts

Featuring our new bridal collection

215 Vicotria St. Suite B3, Toronto, Ontario M5B 1T9p. 416.366.4046 f. 416.366.5162 [email protected]

www.readymounts.com

Say hello to our team.

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productshowcase

3. Chamilia’s New sieNa ColleCtioN

Luscious color, stunning designs, all inspired by centuries-old hills art and

architecture of Tuscany. Rich reds, umbers and greens reminiscent of sun-

drenched olive groves and vineyards. Twenty-four artisan bead designs,

bracelets and necklaces in 14k rose and yellow gold and sterling silver

complete the Siena Collection. For more information write 155 on page 96.

2. PolygoN

Over 2,800 jewellery professionals choose Polygon. Since 1984, Polygon has

helped gem & jewellery professionals gain invaluable knowledge and find

unique trading opportunities that have significantly impacted the year-over-

year growth of their businesses. Find out how you can join the industry’s most

active online community & trading network! Call 1-800-221-4435 or email

[email protected]. For details, write 154 on the Free Info Card on page 96.

4

3

5. gia’s Free retail suPPort Kit

Confidently educate your customers about the 4Cs, the GIA International

Diamond Grading System™, and GIA reports. GIA’s Retailer Support Kits

include effective in-store displays and collateral designed to help you tell the

4Cs story and let your customers know you carry diamonds graded by GIA.

For more information write 157 on page 96.

1. ashley aNNe ColleCtioN uNveiliNg

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2

1


SeptemberHong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair

19 - 23 September 2011AsiaWorld-Expo • Hong KongDiamonds, Pearls, Gemstones, Equipment and Packaging

21 - 25 September 2011Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition CentreFine Finished Jewellery

www.JewelleryNetAsia.com

UBM Asia Ltd17/F, China Resources Building, 26 Harbour Road, Wanchai, Hong Kong Tel : (852) 2516 1677 / 2585 6179Fax : (852) 3749 7319Email : [email protected]

The World’s Number OneFine Jewellery Event

9JG11 Ad 9x10.875inch_EN.indd 1 18/04/2011 5:22 PM


CJ_UBM ASIA.indd 1 5/11/11 9:32:34 AM


Looking her winning best in Neil Lane’s fancy coloured

diamond and platinum chains, Serena Williams dazzled

at the pre-Grammy Gala and Salute to Industry Icons

in Beverly Hills. It was a total of 60 carats of fancy

coloured diamonds. ($150,000).

starwatch

By Bonnie Siegler

Carla Gugino attended the premiere of Sucker Punch

at Hollywood’s Grauman’s Chinese Theatre showing off an Adeler 18k andecine

diamond ring ($9,790).

Spring FlingColoured stones, flowers and bows are some of the stars’ top choices for the season.

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starwatch

Oscar winner Jennifer Hudson has been mesmerizing audiences with her slimmed down figure and superb singing voice. And she wowed them again at her album release party for I Remember Me at Tenjune in New York City wearing a Bavna diamond 14k gold dome ring (price upon request) and a Bavna white gold bangle with pavé diamonds ($18,900).

Mandy Moore belted out a tune at the

Academy Awards in Hollywood but what

caught the audience’s attention was her

swirling open ribbon diamond and platinum

Neil Lane hair bow ($100,000). It was 15

carats of diamonds set in patented silver and

gold that enchanted everyone.

The 2011 Film

Independent Spirit

Awards held at the Santa

Monica Beach brought out an

A-list crowd including Eva Mendes

who chose a Le Vian 2.59-carat

diamond flower ring in 18k black

gold to glisten in the sun.

($14,947).

022-023.CJ_StarWatch.indd 30 5/12/11 1:37:09 PM

Look for Pandora advertisements in the following June and July publications; Flare, Châtelaine French, and ELLE Canada

Be inspired at pandora.net

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OUR JOURNEY TAKES A romantic turn.

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32 CJ J U N E / J U LY 2 0 1 1 | W W W . C A N A D I A N J E W E L L E R . C O M

who’snews

Changes at Citizen WatchKevin Kaye has been named president of Citizen Watch Company of Canada, a� er serving as executive vice-president and general manager since 1992. Kaye was hired to oversee sales, marketing, product development, distribution and � nance, and under his leadership, Citizen quickly grew to become one of the largest mid-priced watch brands in Canada. Kaye has held several key positions in the Canadian jewellery industry, including president of the Canadian Jewellers Association, president of Jewellers Vigilance Canada and president of the Canadian 24-Karat Club. In an interview with Canadian Jeweller, Kaye re� ects on his beginnings: "When I opened the company for Citizen, there really was no market share. So over the past 19 years, we have just continued to grow and grow and grow, and we now have the largest market share presence in the mid-price category." In terms of how his appointment may a� ect the company, Kaye doesn't anticipate any major change in direction. As he points out, "I opened the company, so I look at Citizen of Canada as my baby. I started it and have grown it to the position it is now. My promotion is a recognition of my accomplishments, rather than pointing to a new strategy. I’m not going to change what has made the company successful." Which includes to continue supporting the highly popular Eco-Drive watch line.Is it hard to still be motivated, a� er 19 years of working at the same company? Not for Kaye: "I like to get involved and try to make a di� erence, not just for our company but for our industry as a whole," with initiatives such as the Glitter of Hope Lottery (in support of Sunnybrook's Odette Cancer Centre).Adds Kaye: "What also keeps me challenged is new product development, and being part of an industry that I think is fascinating and healthy, one that keeps evolving."

People making headlines in the jewellery industry

Ulysse Nardin head Rolf Schnyder diesRolf Schnyder, CEO of Swiss watch brand Ulysse Nardin, unexpectedly passed away on April 14, following a short illness. A statement released by the company stated: “With the passing of Rolf Schnyder, the watchmaking industry has lost one of its greatest visionaries, while Ulysse Nardin has lost an important source of innovation for the � rm. We are profoundly moved and distraught at this sudden loss.” � e statement noted that “the operational running of the business by the current members of management can be kept going without interruption, and continued in the spirit of Rolf Schnyder’s vision.” Schnyder had acquired the family � rm Ulysse Nardin in 1983, and since that time held the role of president and CEO. Under his leadership, the brand rose to the top of the mechanical watchmaking sector, with numerous innovations, including the � rst astronomical wristwatch. Schnyder’s successor was announced April 29. Patrik Ho� man was appointed to the position of CEO. He has been a top manager at Ulysse Nardin since 1999, as director of the U.S. corporate o� ces in Boca Raton, and has played a signi� cant role in the success of the brand

in North and Central America. “� anks to the innovative energy of the company, and in harmony with the intentions of the visionary Rolf W. Schnyder and his tireless pioneering spirit, we stand by the strategy of independence,” says Ho� mann.

Stuller appoints ZaleStuller has promoted 30-year industry veteran Stanley Zale to merchandise vice-president of diamonds and gemstones. Zale served until now as vice-president of diamonds. By this appointment, Stuller is consolidating some of its business units. “We believe the consolidation of these two business segments will provide us with opportunities to better serve our customers by capitalizing on the unique knowledge existing on both product teams,” says Jay Jackson, Stuller president and CEO. “And with the success Stanley has demonstrated with regards to our diamond business, I know he’ll bring the same enthusiasm and professionalism to the combined unit.” Prior to joining Stuller, Zale was vice-president of sales and product development at Louis Glick and Company in New York. “I am very excited to be leading a great team of the top technical professionals in the industry,” says Zale. “It’s very powerful when you combine our work force with a single-purpose vision of wowing our customers. � e impact is huge.”

Kevin Kaye

Stanley Zale

XX-XX.CJ_WhosNews.indd 32 5/12/11 4:29:47 PM

d e d i c a t e d t o p e r f e c t i o n

Please visit www.seikocan.com to view our full range of Seiko watches.To become an authorized Seiko dealer, please contact Kelvin Cheong at 1-800-668-6571.

sk cj ad jun0311.indd 1 06/04/11 1:07 PM

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who’snews

� e road to � nding your true calling is rarely a straight one. In Steve Turac’s case, for instance, jewellery had been persistently tempting him while he tried his best to avoid it. “� e truth is, I always resisted being in the business, even though I’ve had family working in it for a very long time,” explains Turac. He � nally gave in. “It was destiny,” he admits. Fate took him from a career in corporate telecommunications to one � lled with diamonds and gold. Being a seasoned businessman, Turac knew he had to lead his own company – that’s when the TIG Group was born.� e business took o� pretty quickly. TIG � rst bene� ted from an exclusive agreement with New York-based Suberi Brothers – which expired at the end of last year – and more recently, from its association with industry giant Julius Klein Group, one of the largest diamond companies in the world. As Turac describes it, “they (Julius Klein Group) share the same philosophy we do: it’s not about selling just jewellery but also bringing back pro� tability for our retailers.”� at approach has served Turac and his partner, David Hayes – who brings more than 25 years of experience to the mix – really well. Today, TIG carries brands such as Ritani (the second largest branded engagement ring line in the world), Ostbye (which includes lines such as She, Diva and Re� ections of Color), Imperial Pearls (a fashion-forward pearl line) and the HSS Jewellery Programs (a price-pointed line featuring high-quality, basic designs).TIG also represents (exclusively in Canada) someone who was instrumental in converting Turac into the jewellery businessman he is today: Sir Gabriel “Gabi” Tolkowsky, one of the world’s most renowned diamond cutters. “I had the honour of working with him for the past four years,” explains Turac, “and he always taught me to work hard and make sure to do what’s best for

TIG: the path to successSteve Turac and David Hayes bring their passion to the jewellery business

our industry and the rest will take care of itself.”Even though TIG is growing, Turac and Hayes want to keep it as a “boutique-style” company, one that o� ers a more personalized approach. “One of the things we won’t do,” explains Turac, “is to bring any brand to Canada that we do not service ourselves. We also have an infrastructure: a goldsmith on duty, bilingual customer service, customs clearance services and so on.” � ey chose to deal with independent retailers only, and o� er a wide selection of products, from a $49-piece to a recently sold quarter-million diamond. � ey also have their own areas of expertise: Turac handles the branded pieces while Hayes takes care of the loose diamonds. Finding your own path is great; sharing it with someone you trust is truly outstanding. [CJ]

BY CARLOS WEIGLE

Smokey quartz silver ring with 18k gold accent, from Ostbye’s Re� ection of Color collection.

Steve Turac

XX-XX.CJ_WhosNews.indd 34 5/12/11 4:30:05 PM

Reverse colours available on all rings.

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Catalogue available on request. Almost 100 new models added.

Bijouterie / Jewellery

Quebec, contact Marcel Dumontet Tel: (514) 865-7235Ontario, contact Vahan Mele Tel: (647) 284-5067

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Tel: (514) 845-0066Fax: (514) 845-3697Toll Free: 1 888 [email protected]

Visit our website for more selections: www.legajeweller.com

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news | trends | events

WFDB Presidents’ MeetingThe World Federation of Diamond Bourses (WFDB) held its annual Presidents’ Meeting recently in Dubai, discussing a number of issues, including non-disclosure of High Pressure High Temperature (HPHT)-treated diamonds and actions against offenders, as well as expansion of the WFDB Mark.Donna Baker, president of the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) gave a presentation on the GIA’s recent decision to cancel accounts with clients who had repeatedly submitted High Pressure High Temperature (HPHT)-treated stones to their lab without prior disclosure. Baker said the GIA will provide the names of those clients and other relevant related information to the WFDB and the International Diamond Manufacturers Association (IDMA), subject to legal examination.Participants in the meeting also agreed that WFDB bylaws, rules and regulations need to be updated and adjusted to reflect the trading channels, such as online trading, online sales and auctions. In addition, WFDB president Avi Paz noted that since the WFDB is to widen its membership circle by offering associate or affiliate membership to diamond producing countries and possibly to diamond mining companies, it will need to review its bylaws and rules to include these new members.

Retail training on Lake GenevaA new institute, the Swiss Retail Management Institute for Watches & Jewellery, has been created

near Geneva. Its goal is to “train the new generations of high jewellery and haute horlogerie

retailers,” says a statement from the new school. The mandate will be to teach the necessary

fundamentals to manage a multi-brand store, incuding brand management, stock management,

marketing, public relations, safety, decoration, sales techniques, management, administration,

gemmology and haute horology. For information, contact www.swissretailmanagement.ch.

ON OUR RADAR

Israel diamond exports soarIsrael exported a net of US$2.1 billion worth of polished diamonds in the first quarter of 2011, a 45.7 per cent increase compared to the US$1.45 billion exported during the first quarter of the previous year. Of the total net, about 45 per cent of exports by value went to the U.S., Israel’s leading diamond export destination, while 26 per cent went to Hong Kong, 9 per cent to Switzerland, 8 per cent to Belgium and 2 per cent to China. Polished diamond imports in the quarter increased 48.5 per cent to $1.2 billion.

U.S. jeweller admits to fraudU.S. jeweller Ralph Esmerian faces jail time after pleading guilty to three counts of fraud in the case that led to the bankruptcy of Fred Leighton Jewelers. A fourth-generation jeweller, Esmerian was charged with stealing or double-pledging more than US$48 million in embezzled jewellery and artifacts. Using these assets as collateral, he secured more than US$210 million in loans to finance his own business operations and acquire Fred Leighton in 2006. According to a report in Women’s Wear Daily, Esmerian acknowledged committing wire fraud, bankruptcy fraud and concealment of assets belonging to the estate of a debtor. In addition to fines that could top $750,000, he could have faced a maximum of 30 years in prison, but instead will face between 97 months and ten years when he is sentenced on July 22nd.Merrill Lynch attempted to recoup part of its $177 million in loans by auctioning off some of Esmerian’s personal collection at Christie’s. Esmerian had sought to sell the pieces, earlier part of the collateral, on his own and put Fred Leighton into Chapter 11 bankruptcy protection in April 2008 to prevent the auction from going forward. Esmerian was arrested on Nov. 22.


XX-XX.CJ_FTR.indd 36 5/12/11 1:16:03 PM

Swiss

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fortherecord

MCD Pearl ImportsA selection of pearl strands,

loose pearls and pearl jewellery

27 Queen St. E, Suite 703 Toronto, ON M5C 2M6T (416) 368-2690 • F (416) 368-2426

Email [email protected]

MCD Pearls Ad layout 1/20/11 6:09 PM Page 1 GIA improves pearl testingThe Gemological Institute of America says

it has introduced significant advancements

in its pearl testing process, using highly

advanced micro-CT X-ray units that

produce high-definition 3-D images of

individual pearls. These new units enable

GIA to rapidly gain fully rotational 3-D

images of the internal growth structures

of pearls in just 15 to 20 minutes; older

units take three to five hours or more. This

new technology enables GIA laboratories

to assess much larger groups of pearls

more quickly and in greater detail than any

previously employed technology.

“We are confident these state-of-the-

art units will give unparalleled service

to the pearl industry,” says Tom Moses,

GIA senior vice-president of Lab and

Research. “This equipment reflects GIA’s

80-year commitment to pearl research,

providing the public and trade with the

most advanced pearl identification, using

the most innovative and sophisticated

technology. Kenneth Scarratt, Nick Sturman

and the rest of the pearl identification team

have more than 100 total years of hands-

on experience examining and identifying

almost every pearl type.”

ON OUR RADARCrimes against jewellers decrease in U.S.The total number of crimes against the fine jewellery industry in the U.S. decreased by 4.5 per cent in 2010, according to the Jewelers’ Security Alliance. In its 2010 Annual Crime Report, JSA reports total dollar losses of US$81 million were suffered by victims, which represents a decrease of 17 per cent from 2009.“The cumulative effect of taking hundreds of jewellery criminals off the streets year after year has had a strong impact on reducing crime,” says JSA president John Kennedy. Increased efforts by the FBI and local law enforcement agencies resulted in the arrests of 538 criminals who attacked the industry in 2010. Kennedy adds that increased information-sharing by jewellers and the police regarding suspects, crimes and scams, as well as the impact of JSA’s local Crime Prevention Networks Project also aided in deterring crime. Kennedy notes that the decreased crime rate contradicts popular wisdom that crime against

the jewellery industry would increase in an economic downturn. He points to several economically driven key factors that helped: fewer retail stores as targets, since many had closed, fewer traveling jewellery salespersons on the road, and lower inventories in retail stores.According to the report, grab-and-run crimes continued to be one of the most frequent crimes against the industry, with 359 reported to the JSA. Burglaries, with 312 crimes, are not far behind.

Interpol tracks Basel thievesFour diamonds worth US$10 million were stolen at BaselWorld in March, and international police agency Interpol has released photos of suspects, taken by surveillance cameras at the show. The diamonds were stolen from a booth in Hall 3.0, while an employee was distracted by one of the gang members, according to a report on Antwerp Facets Online.


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Watches/Jewellery at auctionThe Sotheby’s April watch and clock auction in New York totaled US$5.8 million. Highlighs include a Patek Philippe 18k yellow gold perpetual calendar chronograph, and a musical singing bird automaton clock with hour and half-hour striking, made by Piguet & Meylan and Frederic Rochat, circa 1828 – each of which fetched US$302,500.The Sotheby’s jewellery sale in Hong Kong in April netted US53.5 million. Highlights include: a 25.5-carat, D-color flawless diamond, which sold for US$5.1 million, or US$200,000 per carat; a pair of Harry Winston diamond pendant earrings weighing 36.4-carats, which sold for US$2.4 million; and a 26.67-carat Burmese ruby cabochon and diamond ring by Bulgari, for US$2.4 million. Meanwhile, Christie’s is set to auction the jewellery owned by Elizabeth Taylor, who passed away in March. Among the jewels are the 33.19-carat Krupp

diamond and the 69-carat Taylor-Burton diamond, a gift from Richard Burton. Christie’s New York auction in April totaled US$31.7 million. The top lot was a rectangular-cut, D-color, internally flawless, 37.16-carat diamond, which sold for US$4,450,500.

Fund to help victims; aftershocks in TokyoA group of jewellers and jewellery organizations have launched a fundraising organization to help the victims of the tsunami and earthquake that hit Japan in February. Jewelers for Japan is asking jewellers and consumers to donate scrap gold and silver jewellery, which refiner Rio Grande will convert to cash without a refining fee. All proceeds will be donated to the Red Cross and earmarked for Japan relief. For information, contact www.jewelersforjapan.org.At the recent WFDB President’s Meeting,

Tokyo Diamond Exchange president Michio Iwasaki reported on the state of the diamond industry in Japan following the disastrous earthquake and tsunami that struck the country last month. “The disasters had a big influence on the diamond and jewellery industry of Japan, he said. “Department and retail stores shortened their business hours and all the jewellery exhibitions in Tokyo were canceled. Almost all of the Indian diamond dealers in Tokyo closed their offices and returned home and have not come back yet.” Iwasaki added that the diamond market in Japan has dropped to about 30 per cent of what it was before the earthquake and that sales at one of the largest jewellery chain stores dropped 50 per cent after the earthquake but most probably that figure is even lower. “It certainly will take some considerable time for the Japanese jewellery and diamond industry to recover,” Iwasaki reported.

Rio Tinto touts human rights; production decreases Diamond mining giant Rio Tinto has partnered with the Danish Institute for Human Rights to develop human rights tools for international businesses. Rio Tinto will support the expansion of the DIHR’s Human Rights and Business Country Portal, a website that helps businesses identify, assess and address human rights risks in specific countries. Meanwhile, Rio Tinto’s diamond production fell 29 per cent year-over-year; a 22 per cent decrease in the first quarter, due to lower grades and heavy rains in March, leading to a temporary stop in production. Production at Argyle, its Australian mine, dropped by 35 per cent year-over-year. Production at Diavik, Rio Tinto’s Canadian diamond mine, was 13 per cent lower in the first quarter. Production at the company’s site in Murowa, Zimbabwe, increased by 55 per cent year-over-year.

CJA cautions against Marange diamonds Following the release of a statement from Mathieu Yamba, the Chair of the Kimberley Process, announcing that stocks and production from the Mbada and Canadile mining concessions in Marange, Zimbabwe can be exported with “immediate effect,” the Canadian Jewellers Association has nevertheless cautioned its members against dealing in diamonds from the region. “As you know, there have been alleged human rights abuses, as well as legal issues surrounding diamond production from this region,” says CJA president David Ritter. “As such, we urge all CJA members to practice extreme caution and the necessary due diligence, doing what they can, within their spheres of influence, to protect the integrity of the diamonds they trade in. This includes requiring your suppliers to provide additional written reassurances, beyond the World Diamond Council’s (WDC) System of Warranties statement, that the diamonds they supply have not been obtained in violation of applicable national laws and/or sanctions and have not originated from Marange, Zimbabwe. Until there is further progress made on the various issues surrounding diamonds from the Marange region, CJA recommends that members do not trade in these diamonds.” Ritter notes the association continues to support the KP, working with the Canadian government and other key stakeholders to prevent any further damage to consumer confidence in diamonds. [CJ]


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CJ_Polygon.indd 1 5/11/11 9:56:03 AM


benchfeature

Gemstones that become loose in their settings can cause damage to the gem and the prongs trying to hold them or can ultimately become dislodged and lost. When viewing a jewellery piece with a loose gemstone, inspect it to determine that it was properly set to begin with. If it was, regular inspections can catch the problem in the early stages, before any damage or loss can occur.

If a properly set gemstone does come loose, however, a technique called vector tightening can be used to quickly and safely secure it back in its setting.

Vector tightening is an excellent technique to put loose gemstones back in place

BY DOUGLAS HALL, WITH MARK B. MANN

Gemstones that become loose in their settings can cause damage to the gem and the prongs trying to hold them or can ultimately become dislodged

Tight Bright

and the prongs trying to hold them or can ultimately become dislodged to put loose gemstones back in placeGemstones that become loose in their settings can cause damage to the gem and the prongs trying to hold them or can ultimately become dislodged

Vector tightening is an excellent technique Vector tightening is an excellent technique to put loose gemstones back in place

TightTight Brightand

XX-XX.CJ_Bench_REV.indd 42 5/12/11 1:55:23 PM

Finished Jewellery & Loose DiamondsNova Diamonds Inc.

221 Victoria St. Lower LevelToronto, Ontario, Canada, M5B 1V4

Phone: 416-868-6682 Fax: 416-868-0666

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CJ_Nova.indd 1 5/11/11 9:57:04 AM


Errors in workmanship includE:

Prong contact is 30-50% of crown distance.

• Prong contact is measured along the crown. Measurement from the

girdle to table is 100%.

Prong height is 75-100% of table height.

• Table height is measured vertically from the girdle to the top of the

table. Measurement from the girdle to the table is 100%.

Prong removal is 40-50% of original prong thickness.

• Prong removal is the amount of metal removed from the prong to

create the bearing or seat for the gemstone to be seated into.

The prong bearing is cut to conform to the crown, girdle and

pavilion, and there are no visible open spaces.

• A bearing is a seat cut into each prong to fit gemstone angles so it

sits level in the setting.

The setter cut the bearing (where the gemstone resides) too large. No method will tighten a gemstone when the bearing is too big.

The bearing for the gemstone was cut larger than its diameter.

The bearing should be precise and in full contact with the crown, girdle and pavilion. There should be no visible space.

The bearing does not conform to the gemstone crown, girdle and pavilion.

Thin prongs will open easily during normal wear and cause the gemstone to become loose.

The prong depth was overcut and is too thin.

Gemstones can loosen in prong settings because of wear-related issues or errors in workmanship when they were originally set. Gemstones set to quality metrics include the following features:


45 W W W . C A N A D I A N J E W E L L E R . C O M | J U N E / J U LY 2 0 1 1 CJ

benchfeature

� ere are other errors in prong workmanship that can contribute to loose gemstones. � e prongs are:• Not fully bent onto the crown of the gemstone.• Too thin at the top and provide little or no security.• On a very sharp angle – 30° or less will easily bend on impact.

To demonstrate the vector gemstone tightening method, we’ll use a six-prong head with a round brilliant-cut stone. If you try to tighten the gemstone by simply pushing the prongs in toward the centre of it – seemingly the most direct way – it probably won’t be secure, and you risk damage to it. Th at’s because the “memory” of the metal in the prong will cause it to spring back to its original position and the gemstone will still be loose.

In vector tightening, you move the prongs in two diff erent directions (vectors) to overcome the metal memory. Metal memory is the natural tendency for a prong to spring back into the location where it was residing when pushing in only one direction. Th e prongs end up closer to the centre of the stone and hold it tightly. You can use fl at or chain-nose pliers to vector tighten, but parallel-jaw pliers work best.

First, thoroughly clean the mounting. Next, gently squeeze the two prongs on the upper right side (1, upper and lower right) toward each other. Next, do the same thing with the prongs on the lower left side (2). As you squeeze the prongs toward each other, they will “slide” around the contour of the gemstone. Don’t squeeze too hard – just reduce the distance between the side prongs by roughly one-third.

At this point, the space between the top right prongs and the bottom left prongs should appear too large, and the space between the prongs on the right and left sides should appear too small.

Next, squeeze the side two prongs (3, upper right and lower right) toward each other so they end up with what looks like the original spacing. Repeat with the opposing prongs (4). Th en repeat (5, and then 6). Th e gemstone is now tight and the prongs evenly spaced around it.

Moving the prongs in two directions provides tension and they become somewhat spring-loaded to hold the gemstone securely.

Th e vector gemstone tightening method is taught in the GIA Jewelry Manufacturing Arts program. To learn more about GIA’s Jewelry Manufacturing Arts short lab and longer term on-campus classes, visit www.gia.edu. To see a video on vector tightening of a loose gemstone set into a four-prong mounting, go to http://www.gia.edu/research-resources/library/tips-from-the-bench/index.html. [CJ]

Douglas Hall is GIA’s Jewelry Manufacturing Arts Instructor and Mark B. Mann is GIA’s Jewelry Manufacturing Arts Global Director.



sectionheader

A Gem Nation?Canada:Even though diamonds take the spotlight, our country produces some other amazing stonesBy Duncan Parker

gemologyfeature

Twenty years ago, anyone in the gem trade would raise their eyebrows if you said Canada was a gem-producing nation. “What gems?” they’d ask.

Canada is known internationally as a country of “hewers of wood and drawers of water.” We produce natural resources that aren’t known for their beauty so much as their practicality. Minerals such as manganese, titanium, iron and beryllium don’t sound very exciting, and are primarily mined for manufacturing. For the most part, we export raw materials and import manufactured goods.

However, in the few short years since Canada’s first diamond mine, Ekati, opened in October 1998, our country has become an important gem producer, mostly thanks to its four current diamond mines – Ekati, Diavik, and Snap Lake in the Northwest Territories, and Victor in Ontario. Even though diamonds get all the press, Canada has been producing other

gems for decades. Sadly, many of them are not considered economically viable to mine. Nevertheless, some gems manage to “make the cut.”

Nephrite jade, for instance, has been mined in British Columbia for centuries, being used for tools by local First Nations peoples due to its strength and toughness. In the last century, it’s said that Chinese workers in the Fraser Valley recognized nephrite among the pebbles and boulders in the river and sent this rough material to China for carving and processing into decorative items such as polar bears and penguins. B.C.’s nephrite jade is collected along the Fraser River, and is sometimes removed by helicopter to the factories where it is sawn and prepared for sale. There are some companies that make tiles of this green gem in Canada. B.C. jade is sold all over the world.

Ammolite is also a gem known to every visitor to our country. Unique to Canada, ammolite is found in fossil beds in Alberta and the brilliantly iridescent ammonite shell has been commercially mined since the 1970s.

XX-XX.CJ_Gemology2.indd 46 5/12/11 2:36:35 PM

A master eye for gems … born or made? Coming from four generations of jewelers undoubtedly piqued my interest in this great business. But one needs to constantly train their eye by looking at gems – the more you learn, the better you will be at identifying and pricing gems, as well as being an eff ective salesperson and well-rounded businessman.

Something most people don’t know about you. GIA is what brought me to Christie’s. After studying in Santa Monica, I attended a GIA Career Fair where I had my fi rst interview with the company.

Ok. Defi nitely a story there? I started work when I was 17 and fi ve years into it, I thought I knew pretty much everything there was to know … until I enrolled at GIA. The Institute’s meticulous training and high standards exposed me to a whole new world of expertise.

Ultimate sales edge … emotion or expertise? Jewelry is an emotional shopping experience, but expertise plays a decisive role. It’s wonderful to show people a brilliant diamond, but it means more when you can follow up with a skillful explanation of the 4Cs exemplifi ed in that particular gem.

Lean economy. Less jewelry? At the nexus of the downturn in late 2008, we sold the Wittelsbach Blue Diamond for $24 million, a world record price back then for any gem ever sold at auction. When you have great gems and jewels, the money makes itself available.

Any advice to the up and coming? Don’t lose the passion that brought you to this business, and above all, keep learning every day.

Sooner or later, the world’s most extraordinary gems will cross paths with

RAHUL KADAKIA. Here, Christie’s Senior VP, Head of Jewelry Americas,

shares priceless insight into the jewelry business and the value of an expert education.

GIA gratefully acknowledges those who, for 80 years, have used our resources to further

world expertise in gems. Invest in your success at WWW.GIA.EDU

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Its layered structure produces colours that can cover the spectrum and prove to be quite vivid in appearance. The material is inherently thin and is usually sold as a doublet or triplet, sometimes stabilized with polymer resins. In terms of colour, the ammolite looks a little like opal, and can show flashes of virtually any colour, from pinpoints to large patches. Ammolite is sold loose and mounted in precious metal jewellery.

In addition to being sold in Canada’s principal tourist centres, ammolite has successfully been sold through shopping channels in a number of countries. The gem is sold unmounted and also in jewellery designed to highlight the cabochon-cut gems. Until diamonds were discovered, ammolite was the most consistently successful gem extraction and finishing business in Canada. The Korite Company was the first to commercially mine ammolite and remains the principal operator.

Several years ago, emeralds were discovered in the Yukon Territory. The stones were very exciting and received a lot of attention at the time. The discovery of emeralds, as it often happens, was accidental: geologist William A. Wengzynowski stumbled onto them while exploring for something entirely different. The source is relatively small, and being in the Yukon, located in a cold and inhospitable environment at certain times of the year. These conditions, combined with the translucent nature of the emeralds, led from excitement to putting development on the back burner.

The STone Searcher

Canadian Gemmological Association vice-president, Bradley Wilson, of Alpine Gems, is someone who knows gem sources in our

country well. In fact, Wilson spends his summers in the more remote parts of Canada, doing exploratory or geological research work, and while he is exploring, he often seeks gem materials. Knowing the geology of the region he visits, he is able to determine what gem materials might likely be found in any given area.

During his presentations at conferences, Wilson has described finds of topaz in B.C., blue spinel, lapis lazuli, and sapphire in Baffin Island, for example. These sources, as with the emerald source in the Yukon, are remote and costly to exploit, and may not yield gems able to compete, price-wise, with those extracted from warm places with easy access and local, inexpensive labour. The only way these sources of interesting but costly gems can make economic sense is if they are marketed as a unique specialty product.

Sodalite is a blue gem mined in Bancroft, Ont. This gem doesn’t really compete with lapis lazuli from Afghanistan, but at least you don’t have to deal with an armed conflict. Sodalite is a slightly mottled, nearly opaque, dark blue gem that is used for beads, carvings and cabochons.

Another gem from that region is apatite. This stone can be green, yellow or blue, but the ones usually found in Ontario are yellowish green and often look a little like peridot. It is often transparent and was commercially marketed in Ontario in the 1970s as “trilliumite,” after Ontario’s provincial flower. Apatite is also soft and is best not worn as a ring stone. It didn’t last long as a commercially marketed gem.

Amethyst is another gem that represents the province. It is mined in Thunder Bay and is found in nice-looking, transparent crystals.

This purple variety of quartz is available in very large quantities from Brazil, where larger supplies and lower

labour costs keep the Ontario gems a novelty item for local collectors and as souvenirs. There

are areas in Ontario where amethysts can be

collected for a fee.

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“Amethyst is mined in Thunder Bay, Ont. and is found in nice-looking, transparent crystals.”



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Miner for a day

Speaking of which, fee collecting is another way to make a Canadian gem source economically viable. In the Okanagan Valley in B.C., for example, Bob Yorke-Hardy discovered opal (yes, in Canada!), and though the mine isn’t able to produce huge quantities of the gem, it’s able to support a business, including a fee for collecting system. The way this works is that the visitor pays $50 and can collect for the day, taking away as much as 2.5kg of material. Some of the opal really is very pretty, with good flashes of mixed bright colours.

In order to have a viable fee for collecting business there must be enough material to support it, it must be near to roads so that visitors can get there, and the gem material should be recognizable so the visitors can find it. Fortunately, opals fit the bill.

Some gems are not accessible or don’t look like much when they are in the ground. Identifying them requires specialists, such as Wilson. In fact, it’s possible to purchase Canadian gems he has found, collected and polished. The gems he carries aren’t in huge quantities or calibrated in sizes, they are more one-of-a-kind and often unusual, like scapolite from Kimmirut, in Nunavut. Demantoid garnet (yes, the most collectible and costly green

garnet) is actually found at Asbestos, Que., and the cinnamon-coloured hessonite garnet is found at Mont Ste Hillaire, Que. These gems are rare and important collector specimens from Canada, but are actually also very wearable.

On the east coast, we have a gem that bears the name of its origins: Labradorite. This gem, found of course in Newfoundland and Labrador, is an iridescent stone that looks translucent and grey, but has a blue to green reflective flash, like a moonstone. This gem is mined on a small scale in Labrador.

Another couple of gems that bear local names are perthite and bytownite, named after both Perth, and Bytown, Ont. Perthite has a light, whitish grey colour with a blue iridescent flash. Bytownite can be transparent and is sometimes faceted as a light yellowish gem.

We all know Canada is a vast and diverse country and can yield so much by way of wealth. We also know that this great country offers some of the finest gems in the form of diamonds, yet it is equally exciting to learn that it hides these secret caches of other gems that are worth looking into and marketing as our own. [CJ]

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ItFamily

runsin the

Barthau Jewellers built its reputation on three generations of jewellers and watchmakers

ItFamily

runsin the

BY CARLOS WEIGLE

photography by Deryck Lewis • styLing by keLechi achonu

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coverstory

53 w w w . c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r . c o m | j u n e / j u ly 2 0 1 1 CJDarren and David Barthau.


DDetermination, craftsmanship, work ethic … When you carry all those qualities in your blood, it’s not easy to escape from your destiny. In fact, it’s best to embrace it, value what you have and start on your own path. David Barthau knows this process very well.

His started, as it often happens, with his parents. His father, Lloyd, was very sick when he was young. “After he left the hospital,” recalls David, “he was told he wouldn’t be able to walk. Against all odds, he learned how to walk again. He trained as a watchmaker and was so determined that he left his crutches behind on his first day at work.”

A watchmaker was born. Lloyd was also someone who could lift his eyes from the workbench and envision a life in the jewellery business. “He always wanted to have his own store,” says David. “As a kid, I remember he would constantly be looking at different places to open one. Dad ended up seeing a place in Markham, on the main street. It was an old shoe store that had originally been a bank. He ended up buying the

property, renovating it and putting an addition in the back, since we were going to live upstairs.”

Becoming a jeweller took a lot of effort and training, which he developed while doing trade work from his house, prior to opening the store in ’68, since he was primarily a watchmaker. “He worked long hours, and hard. He was a hands-on kind of person, one who would give that personalized service. That generated a lot of admiration and respect for him,” says David.

The first years were not easy; when the store first opened, David was going to school, doing the odd jobs and living with his father in Markham while his mother remained in Toronto. The passion for watchmaking and fine craftsmanship was passed on to David, yet he explored other options. In high school he was specializing in electronics. As he recalls, “I could just see the advancement in that field, switching from tubes to transistors. I could also see the transistor would only be temporary, before something else came along. I then realized I didn’t want to be in a field that was constantly changing. Who knew that jewellery and watches would change as much as they have!”



coverstory

Oftentimes, jewellery has great sentimental value, even when

you’re a jeweller yourself. In David Barthau’s case, it’s his

diamond ring that has a special place in his heart. “When

my grandfather passed away, he left me some money,” he

explains. “So I thought, what best way to honour him than to

buy a diamond in his memory. I picked the nicest one that I saw

at that time, which had a very good cut. I made it into a ring and

have worn it just about every day since.” Also of sentimental

value is his wedding band, which he’ll have to change since

it’s becoming too thin. Ironically, he can’t make up his mind:

“I do designs all the time, yet I haven’t come across the one

that I want.”

“When we sell Ontario diamonds, we’re able to sell something that is socially, environmentally and economically advantageous.”


A very speciAl diAmond

That, added to his mechanical skills and family background, put David back in the path of becoming a watchmaker. He started working with jewellery, training in the store, and discovered he actually enjoyed it. Following in his father’s steps, he enrolled to learn the trade at George Brown College in Toronto, later rounding out his education with a scholarship program with WOSTEP in Switzerland. He later became an instructor at George Brown College.

Just like Lloyd, David wanted to have his own store, which he opened, along with his wife Janet, in 1978. The chosen location was in Stouffville, Ont., not too far from his father’s original store. Both stores bore the name Barthau Jewellers. “We ran them independently but together,” explains David. “We’d advertise together and if somebody wanted to return something to my store that they’d bought at his store, I would accept it.” Of course each one of them had his own management style, yet that didn’t create any conflicts. “We always got along quite well,” says David.

Such a strong legacy was bound to go on. Darren, the eldest of David and Janet’s three kids, decided to join the business. Surprisingly, his parents were not thrilled at first. They talked to him about the really long hours, especially over the holidays, when everyone is celebrating, as well as other challenges that come with the territory. Nevertheless, Darren had already acquired a taste for jewellery and watches and couldn’t be dissuaded. He did his formal training at George Brown College and the resident program at GIA in Carlsbad, California. Of course he also learned a lot just by being around his parents in the store. “He’s now a Master Graduate Gemologist and he really excels at what he does,” says David.


Nowadays, father and son work together in their Stouffville location, Darren more on the business side and David enjoying working on jewellery and watches. Does David see Darren opening up his own store, just like he did? “No, I think it will be more like me backing out and him taking over.”

To keep abreast of the trends, styles and business practices you have to be involved, and David credits that to their close to 30-year involvement with both the Canadian Jewellery Group (CJG) and the Independent Jewelers Organization (IJO), the networking and training – as well the Internet discussion channels – for helping them move forward.

Creating something from scratch or giving an old piece a new lease on life is what makes David’s eyes light up. “We design and create. I enjoy taking an old piece of jewellery and modifying it. I remember we once took an old watch and turned it into a pendant – it was a phenomenal piece.”

Things have definitely changed, from a technical standpoint, since David learned the basics with his father. Even though he still uses the workbench Lloyd had, he’s also incorporated the latest technologies into creating beautiful jewellery. “I’ve been using computer-assisted design and milling for the past five to eight years. These are great tools, since we can show the customer an image of what we’re going to make for them before we even start working in metal.”

Customers’ needs have also changed. “When dad started the business, there was a lot of giftware and figurines, along with the watches and jewellery.” They’re better informed and more demanding. They’d also rather buy local, even when it comes to jewellery. As David puts it: “Today, when we sell Ontario diamonds, we’re able to sell something that is socially, environmentally and economically advantageous. Also, when you’re dealing with Victor (Ontario) diamonds, you know you're getting only the top 10 per cent, so when a customers buys one, they know it’s more of a premium diamond.” David proudly says that he owns the 51st certified Ontario diamond. He and Janet have also visited the Diavik diamond mine in the Northwest Territories. “It was quite an experience that we were later able to relay to our customers.”


David Barthau admires a handful of Ontario’s Victor diamonds (far left); David and his wife Janet at the Diavik diamond mine in the Northwest Territories (top and left).


coverstory

The jewellery landscape has also changed significantly. “To compete today you’ve got to have the brands and products people want. Yet you want to be able to sell something you can stand behind. When customers come into the store, they want an experience,” says David. He notices that “these days, younger people want larger diamonds – and to pay less for them.” He acknowledges the spectacular rise of Pandora – “it reminds me of the charm fever of the ’70s” and points out the success of the ELLE jewellery line.

Customers want convenience as well. That’s what made the Barthaus move, a few months ago, from their downtown Stouffville location to one with better access, lots of parking and surrounded by other big stores. “Our look is also more modern,” adds David. That is evident when you go into the store, a bright, open and sophisticated space. Gone are the creaking floors and the “character” of the old store where they spent the last two and a half decades. There’s an inevitable hint of nostalgia in the air but there’s also the sense that the new location is going to improve their customers’ shopping experience. In spite of the new environment, the Barthau’s dedication remains strong. “We are in a small town,” explains David, “and if you are not reputable, you won’t be in business for long.”

Adapting to rapidly-changing times is essential to keep you in any business. Keeping the passion alive is probably equally important. “For me, it’s the satisfaction of having someone wear something that we made, a symbol of their love, one that will be cherished by a family for generations. I mean, what can be better than that?” asks David with a smile. “Or even restoring a piece


that’s been a family heirloom and bringing it back to life. Also redesigning, taking a piece, keeping its original intent and making something new out of it. That’s kind of fun!”

Actually, when you’re David Barthau, there is something better than that: helping those in your community. Eleven years ago, the jeweller started, along with the local Lions Club, the Lions Vision Screening program for children. “That’s probably the biggest project I’ve been involved with,” he admits. The program has successfully detected children with previously undiagnosed vision problems who were wrongly believed to have learning disabilities.

The Barthaus have also been involved in other community projects, such as Wings of Freedom (an organization that helps abused women) and Charity Angels, as well as sponsoring Whistle Radio, a local community radio station. David’s efforts haven’t gone unnoticed: last year he was the recipient of the first lifetime achievement award given by the Whitchurch-Stouffville Chamber of Commerce.

The family tradition goes on. The hours spent trying to find the perfect shape for a ring or getting lost in the intricacies of a watch mechanism were well spent. The eternal search for beauty and the struggle to find balance in an unbalanced world will never cease. David Barthau and his family know all of this well. It’s in their blood, after all. [CJ]

A Pandora bracelet can be customized with more than 600 available chain pieces.



2011’s top trends . . . with staying power for 2012By Lorraine DePasque

s the jewellery industry recovers from the recession, a few trends begin to emerge.

Perhaps most significant is that the classics – a “safe” route throughout the recession–have taken a back seat. And in their place: unconventional designs. According to retailers, designers and other industry experts, as the economy shows signs of recovery, the consumer mindset on fine jewellery has shifted, repositioning non-traditional designs firmly up front. With this emerging desire for non-traditional, the design community has responded by originating collections with new alloys, unusual metal mixes and gems not recently seen in fine fabrications.

Jewelleryredefined

Sliced sapphire necklace from Yvel’s Rainbow Collection.

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productfocus

“ColleCtor” CaChet

Meg Henne Gibson, owner of Henne Jewelers, Pittsburgh, Pa., says, “Now is the time to look for out-of-the-ordinary collector-type pieces. For the past two years, consumers have focused on price point, but now they will be actively searching for something more expensive, as long as the pieces are unusual, valuable and collectible. We’re seeing that our clients demand Alex Sepkus and other collector pieces – and it has made us realize that, as a retailer, we need to get out of our comfort zone of thinking our customers are still overly price-conscious.”

Toronto-based jewellery designer Anne Sportun has seen this new “collector trumps price” consumer mindset firsthand. “Our jewellers are telling us that their customers want something to pass down. More so than in the past, their purchasing seems to have become very emotional. When we introduced our Stardust collection last year, our retailers bought the smaller pendant, which retails at about $3,500. But now they’re coming back and trading it in for the larger one, which sells for $4,600. They say their customer wants something special – that’s what’s important right now.”

At Greenwich Jewellers in New York City’s Wall Street district, owner Jennifer Gandia says, “This year we’re really looking for collections that are distinctive – new designers with a unique point of view – because we see that’s what our customer wants.”

Jeanne Johngren, owner of Jeanne Johngren Design, Princeton, NJ, and president of the Contemporary Jewellery Design Group (CJDG), says, “One of the strongest trends right now is the consumer really caring about the individuality of a product. As a result of the economic slump, they’ve come to a place where quality and greater acceptance of the unconventional are important. And the story behind the artwork of the product is now more important than ever.”

KeY ClaSSIFICatIoNS:> Ultra-long necklaces: 40- to 72-inch lengths for layering and wrapping, usually featuring bold gemstone colour and large ornamental sections of

metal, some with matching bracelets to add length.

> Bracelets: Three types, including: cuffs that aren’t bulky, often in paper-thin metal or with cutouts; bangles in medium widths, not as thin as

before; designs with interchangeable elements.

> Coloured-stone Fashion Rings: Many one-of-a-kind styles, frequently with textured surfaces and bezels. Great attention to details.

> Linear Drop Earrings: Thin, not quite touching the shoulder, usually with gumdrops of color at bottom.

> Pendants: Medium-sized, particularly in darkened non-precious alternative metals, palladium and ultra-high-karat yellow gold touches.

Huge, coloured stones, such as the labradorite featured in this Anne Sportun ring, are all the rage.



productfocus

Metals: Mixed and darkened

That said, one of this year’s biggest stories is mixed metals, often precious mixed with alternative metals, including titanium, stainless steel and bronze. From new, proprietary alloy mixes to creative combinations of three, four and more different metals on a single piece, such innovation is, in fact, creating an exciting chapter in the industry as a whole. “Designers are doing things like alloy exploration to set themselves apart,” says Johngren. “Innovators like Pamela Froman, Aaron Henry, and Gurhan give them a new palette to explore.” Gurhan, known for his signature 24k yellow gold, introduced a collection in Basel that marries his 24k with patinated cast bronze.

“Gold mixed with other metals continues to be a big trend this year, given the volatile metals market, says Cindy Edelstein, president of the Jewelers Resource Bureau. “And we’re seeing fine jewellery retailers open to lots of new ideas like this, which will give them fashion and creativity at affordable price points – for example, under $1,500.”

Quebec’s Pierre-Yves Paquette of Pierre-Yves Joaillier, Saint-Sauveur, Que., agrees, saying when he exhibited at the Buyers Market of American Craft Show in February, this is what jewellers were really interested in, especially pieces with more silver. “And they like the oxidized silver – more toward black – with touches of karat gold,” he says, “and my pieces that mix blackened steel.” The blackened direction is very strong, underscores Edelstein. “It started out small a few years ago, but now it is one of the most important looks in jewellery fashion.”

Paquette creates pieces that are fashion-directional and, at the same time, highly collectible, as they’re often handcrafted by the artist in the mokume

gane technique. He typically mixes silver with 18k yellow gold, 22k “lemon gold,” steel and palladium. “I

like the look of palladium white gold,” he says, “because I don’t have to plate it in order for it to be white.”

At this time, palladium is positioned to become even stronger in the coming year, as Palladium Alliance

International is currently developing plans to launch its largest-ever U.S. trade and consumer marketing campaign to promote palladium jewellery. It will highlight designers who are embracing the precious metal – which (at press time) was little more than half the price of gold.

non-traditional bridal

When talking trends, one of the notable directions is unconventional bridal – in the metals, the gems and

the styling. Edelstein says, “Contemporary metals, such as titanium and cobalt alloys, are getting stronger in the bridal

market.” Elizabeth Mandros Miller, owner of Mystique Fine Jewelry Design in Alexandria, Va., says that with the growing popularity of darkened surfaces, she’s even selling wedding bands with oxidized gold finishes. “And our customers, particularly younger ones, like unusual cuts, for example, rough diamond centres.” Anne Sportun says her rough diamond centre bridal designs are also popular. “But this year, I can’t keep up with the demand for our engagement rings with diamond slices, including milky whites, grays and browns.”

Even if the stone is a more traditional round, says Pierre-Yves Paquette, “The younger generation just doesn’t seem to want a traditional colorless diamond centre anymore.” One of his best-selling engagement rings over the past year has been a handcrafted mokume gane design that – in mixes of different metals – is set with a champagne, blue or pink diamond.

Ultra–long necklaces featuring metal are here to stay, as shown in this blackened sterling-silver ball pendant, by Dana David.


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productfocus

Sapphire’S Spectrum SparkleS

Did you notice that sapphire appears in all three gem colour groupings? That’s because it’s a key trend this year. Taking a cue from retailers who say their customer is craving something different, an increasing number of designers are concentrating on the many shades of sapphire and frequently mixing those shades on a single piece. Where once the consumer thought of this corundum as a gem in the blue family only, the collective understanding has finally broadened.

In Basel, Yvel’s 18k gold natural sapphire Rainbow Collection of slices of sapphire in blues, greys, greens, pinks and purples, was one of its strongest purchases – with or without diamond accents. Anne Sportun says, “My sapphire Stardust collection, which mixes fancies, is absolutely my hottest line right now.” [CJ]

a colour exploSion

With all precious metal prices hitting new price highs, a huge focus of new collections is on coloured stones – and especially huge stones. Many of the gems being used are those not widely chosen by contemporary fine jewellery designers in the recent past – sugilite, aquamarine, and green opal, for example. As you shop for the fall and holiday seasons, keep in mind three gem colour stories: green, blue and purple. Within those, watch out for some of this year’s favorites:GREEN: Chrysoprase, moonstone, tourmaline, prehnite, fluorite (green quartz), fancy sapphire, green opal, green garnet and jade.BLUE: Aquamarine, tourmaline, turquoise and sapphire. Lapis (if designers can get it) and moonstone and labradorite (both huge last year) are still appearing in some collections.PURPLE: Sugilite, violet quartz, lavender jade, fancy sapphire and eggplant-hued Tahitians. And amethyst, as always.

Multi-coloured sapphires make Anne Sportun’s Stardust ring shine.

Blackened sterling-silver and 18k gold ring, with lapis-lazuli, diamonds and tsavorites, by John Apel.

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PAJ bets on ELLE, a sterling silver fashion jewellery line, and it pays o� , big time

BY CARLOS WEIGLE

faithA leap of

ELLE Jewellery “Heart of Hearts” Collection, sterling silver 3 in 1 Forever Heart pendant 18”

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companyprofi le

New ideas are certainly risky – you venture into

uncharted waters and, even if you have a great concept in mind, there’s no way of knowing how the market will react to it. Starting with a well-recognized brand is a good � rst step, yet it o� ers no guarantees. So when ELLE – the world’s largest fashion magazine – decided to create its own sterling silver jewellery brand, some had their doubts.

In 2002, ELLE partnered with Dallas-based company, Prime Art and Jewel, to make this vision a reality. Founded by Felix Chen in 1976, PAJ is one of the world’s largest jewellery manufacturers and distributors, with o� ces in New York, Dallas and Toronto – which was established in 1997 with the purchase of Bijoux Continental. A fully integrated jewellery company, PAJ’s strengths in design, production, and distribution of sterling silver jewellery made them the perfect � t for expanding the ELLE brand into the world of fashion jewellery.

� e ELLE jewellery line was launched in Canada in 2003, but not without challenges. “Back then, the thought of sterling silver in a jewellery store was almost unheard of. Most jewellers didn’t think silver fashion jewellery was such a great idea, and customers wanted gold, since that was the precious metal of choice. But, once they saw the actual items and recognized how beautiful and well made they were, the retailers were easily won over,” recalls Mary Frick-Milan, PAJ Canada’s Vice President of Sales & Marketing. In spite of the di� culties, there was something unique about ELLE Jewellery that allowed it to stand the test of time.

From that point on, the ELLE Jewellery brand soared to new heights. From being just a small percentage of PAJ’s total revenue in Canada, it soon became a major part of it (the rest is composed by PAJ’s department store private brands). Pricing was also a deciding factor in the brand’s success. With most pieces averaging $100 – $200, it suddenly became a� ordable to own well-designed, precious metal jewellery. As Frick-Milan explains it, “it � lled a gap in the market, since there were no jewellery lines that made sterling silver pieces with the type of fashion appeal that ELLE had: we were able to o� er something that no one else could, at prices people could a� ord.”

EVERYTHING IS BEAUTIFUL

Design, of course, was also crucial. ELLE wanted to � nd someone who could bridge the North-American/European divide and be a passionate drive for its

collections worldwide. � ey found just that with Claire Vessot. � e Montreal-based designer managed “to interpret every market in a way that worked,” says Frick-Milan. “� ey also wanted to make sure that when you see a jewellery

piece, you know that it’s ELLE.” � e award-winning designer made the ELLE

brand recognizable with the way she draws inspiration from everyday items. As Frick-

Milan puts it “she sees beauty in everything.”

Pricing, packaging, design and materials are the key elements that made the ELLE brand distinct and

recognizable. Bold reds represent the brand’s trademark color, in addition to the signature genuine ruby incorporated into the

design of each and every ELLE piece. “We also work with a lot of semi-precious stones,” explains Frick-Milan, “such as black onyx, rose and smoky quartz, mother of pearl…”

Another element that helped put customers at ease was the fact that ELLE Jewellery started making rhodium-plated pieces, which protects against tarnishing. � at initiative started in Canada and was a� erwards adopted by the U.S., when they realized how that plating choice provides the bene� t of low maintenance for customers.

Even though PAJ’s private brand business is still doing extremely well – the company has clients such as Wal Mart, Zellers, � e Bay, Sears and � e Shopping Channel – the ELLE Jewellery line has been a constant reason for joy. “It grew 25 to 30 per cent every year over the last three years, and we’re expecting a 15 to 20 per cent growth in 2011,” says Frick-Milan. It has also been a positive in� uence for other reasons. “We never had a jewellery line that was as fun to sell as ELLE,” she admits. “We’re passionate about the product, we love it, and we wear it. So, I think it makes it an easy sell.” [CJ]

ELLE Jewellery “Re� ections” Collection, sterling silver

ring and wide cu�

ELLE Jewellery “Harmony” Collection, sterling silver oval link rose quartz bracelet, 7.5”

XX-XX.CJ_CompanyProfile2.indd 65 5/12/11 11:49:00 AM


Vintage themes and new technologies dominate Baselworld 2011 while the watch industry celebrates the return to

record sales.BY CARLOS WEIGLE WITH OLIVIER FELICIO IN BASEL

AMODERN CLASSIC

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baselfeature



In today’s world, words have certainly become devalued, while numbers seem to provide reassurance and speak louder than anything else. So while many analysts touted Baselworld 2011 as an undisputed success

and proof that the recession is over – at least for the global watch industry – the annual Swiss show had some numbers to back that up.

A total of 1,892 exhibitors enthusiastically welcomed a crowd of 103,200 visitors (up 2.5 per cent compared to last year and the second best result of all times) and 3,055 media representatives (a 5 per cent increase over last year) from more than 100 countries. Sales, most importantly, were also on the positive side. In fact, a recent report by Global Industry Analysts estimates the global watch market will reach US$46.6 billion by 2017. Much of that growth is predicted to come from China, which has become the second largest market for luxury watches in the world. Meanwhile, other emerging markets, especially Brazil, are expected to grow quite rapidly.

As Jacques J. Duchêne, president of the Exhibitors’ Committee summarized after the show’s closing, “We can speak of an excellent year. We, as exhibitors, are very satisfied and have achieved highly gratifying sales. The expectations for this year’s Baselworld were exceptionally high – precisely

after two particularly positive months at the start of the year. And they were certainly fulfilled.”

Canadians who attended the show also agree. “There was certainly a positive buzz at Basel,” confirms J. Kevin Kaye, president of Citizen Watch Company of Canada (read our interview with Kaye on page 32). Kaye also confirms the main trends observed in Basel: “New technologies abound. There was also more of a resurgence of simple, classic designs.”

Olivier Felicio, Canadian Jeweller’s editor-in-chief, who also attended the Swiss watch show, agrees: “You could see a combination of old and modern elements at work; vintage elements were matched with incredible technical innovations.”

The recent recession made the brands revisit their most iconic models and elements in search of something that could stand the test of time, instead of trying to launch a completely new – and possibly short-lived fad. They wanted to show customers that they care for their heritage while showcasing their technical advancements. The new sobriety made for thinner cases (at least in men’s watches) and fewer diamond-heavy bezels.

Rado – Ceramica White, a fully ceramic timepiece with a sleek bracelet-style

white band and gold dial.


1. Ulysse NardiN – Freak diavolo

The Freak Diavolo boasts an ultramodern and

daring design with escapement wheels built

entirely out of silicium and a tourbillon carousel

that has no true dial, crown or hands.

2.HUblot – MP-02 key oF tiMe

Crafted by a team of 30 watch artisans, this

futuristic timepiece is set in rugged titanium on

a black rubber strap and allows its wearer to

manually adjust the speed of time to their liking.

3. HerMÈs – arceaU le teMPs sUsPeNdU

This classic circular dial accessorized by a

crocodile-skin band is reflective of its name by

allowing its wearer to literally suspend time with

the press of a button.

4. FrÉdÉriqUe coNstaNt – aMoUr Heart beat

collectioN

Designed to seduce a woman, the pieces in

the new Amour Heart Beat Collection exude

femininity with a heart-shaped decoration and

“Amour” written out on the dial.

5. tag HeUer – MikrotiMer FlyiNg 1000

The first ever chronograph to measure the

1/1000th of a second, the Mikrotimer is a highly

complex mechanism marked by a bold and

sophisticated design.


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With so many top-notch exhibitors, it was hard to pick favourites. Some brands, though, really managed to stand out. One of them was certainly TAG Heuer. In the technology front, they struck with the Mikrotimer Flying 1000, the only mechanical chronograph to measure and display 1/1,000th of a second with an oscillating system that vibrates 125 times faster than most existing chronographs. As for a vintage watch, TAG drew inspiration from its illustrious sports heritage to launch a new version of a classic: the Monza Automatic Chronograph Calibre 36. This timepiece – one that brings back memories of Ferrari’s F1 successes in the ‘70s – combines sleek looks with a full-throttle Calibre 36 movement.

Ulysse Nardin, which lost its president last April (see page 32), had another hit with the launch of a new version of its popular Freak line, the Freak Diavolo. Among other advancements, the Diavolo uses silicium in its hairspring and throughout the majority of its escapement. To avoid a possible shortage of silicium in the market, Ulysse Nardin announced it has purchased 50 per cent of Sigatec, a company dedicated to producing silicon micro-parts. Another innovation is Caliber 118, the first member of a family of movements with an in-house-produced and patented DIAMonSIL – an alliance of silicium and man-made diamonds – escapement. In terms of classic designs, Ulysse Nardin presented Alexander the Great, a new addition to its Minute Repeater Westminster Carillon Tourbillon Jaquemarts line.

On the fashion watch side Swarovski jumped on the ceramic wagon in its own, unique way. The Octea Sport White Ceramic is cut from a single ceramic piece, with a sunray pattern, which proved to be a challenge, especially in terms of the unidirectional rotating bezel. In keeping things fresh, the company also showcased its new men’s watches line.

baselfeature

Rado’s FiRsts

With such an amazing array of brands asking for attention, it’s

very easy to get lost in the crowd. Rado (part of the Swatch

Group) is not at risk for that. In fact, it came well-prepared to

Baselworld, with two “firsts” in hand.

One is the True Thinline, which at a mere 5 mm tall –and a quartz

movement of less than 1mm – it is the world’s thinnest ceramic

watch. The eye-catching timepiece features clear gold coloured

indexes accentuated by the fully integrated domed sapphire

crystal. The case and buckle, both in high-tech ceramics, fit

perfectly into the integrated rubber bracelet.

A leader in the use of ceramics in watches, Rado also announced

another first, the introduction of Ceramos, a fusion of high-tech

ceramic and metal that results in a very light but extremely hard

material. It also adjusts quickly to skin temperature, offering

unrivalled comfort levels when used to make watch bracelets

and cases. Now available in the D-Star collection, Ceramos puts

Rado as a front-runner in terms of innovative watch materials.

Swatch Group’s Taryn Doobay and Olivier Felicio

Swarovski – Elis Lady & MiniThis timepiece features a crystal mesh strap and a square-shaped dial decorated by nine

hand-applied clear crystals.


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Hublot, wild at Heart

If cutting-edge – whether in terms of mechanics or design – is

your thing, then Hublot is your brand. This year the company

managed to impress…again! Jean-Claude Biver, the company’s

CEO put on a great show while presenting their new watches

at Basel, even though some of them were so stunning they

probably didn’t even need an introduction.

Especially when we’re talking about the MP-02 Key of Time,

the second member of the Masterpiece collection (launched

last January). This engineering achievement allows customers

to “modulate” time to their liking. In fact, it can make time

run “slower” or “faster” and then take you back to “real” time

whenever you wish - or need – to. Made of microblasted titanium

with black DLC coating, this was one of the stars of the show.

Another interesting offering – for those who enjoy something

a little more subdued – is the The Cathedral minute repeater,

tourbillon and column wheel chronograph made almost entirely

from carbon fibre that also features two different “gongs” (one

for hours and the other for minutes).

The “wild ladies” in attendance were also in luck. The Big Bang

Leopard 41 mm in red gold with automatic chronograph features

a leopard print and is designed to be a good match for both

daytime and elegant evening occasions.

Speaking of fresh ideas, Frederique Constant hired ShuQi, a famous Taiwanese-born movie star (possibly trying to target the growing Asian market) to design its lovely Amour Ladies Automatic Collection. The company is also focusing its effort on another booming demographic, girls aged 12 to 16 (with its new Junior Ladies Collection), as part of a very aggressive expansion plan.

Also focused on the younger spectrum of the market is TechnoMarine, which attracted good crowds with its eye-catching sport models and innovations including a ceramic bracelet for its Cruise Ceramic collection.

One company that did really well with an homage to vintage designs was Hamilton. The American brand showcased the new Thin-O-Matic, honouring the flattest automatic watch of the ‘60s; the Pan-Europ, a technologically advanced timepiece inspired on a watch from the early ‘70s; and the Lady Hamilton Vintage, a tribute to an original piece launched in 1908.

Another American company, Jorg Gray – the one that famously landed on President Obama’s wrist – garnered attention with its first Baselworld appearance. Jorg Gray also recently announced a partnership with Canadian IndyCar superstar, Alex Tagliani.

More vintage themes were brought up by Ingersoll with its Mickey Mouse ‘30s Collection, which brings back a successful line of watches centred on the Disney character, originally launched in 1933. The collection retains the look of the original watches and includes not only wristwatches but also whimsical pocket watches.

Overall, Baselworld 2011 proved to be a good omen of great things to come: a market that shows signs of economic recovery, increasing sales, beautiful designs and technical prowess. The rest, only time will tell. [CJ]

Watch Advertisers in this issue

Bandat: 514.332.9298w: www.bandacanada.com

Bulovat: 416.398.1222w: www.fcanddadv.com

Muehle-Glashuettet: 613.288.0650w: www.muehle-glashuette.ca

Pandorat: 410.234.2522w: www.gkv.com

Odysseyt: 905.886.9966

Pierre Laurentt: 905.479.4601w: www.pierrelaurent.com

Rodania Canadat: 514.842.9136w: www.rodaniacanada.com

Stullert: 337.262.7700w: www.stuller.com

Wenger’st: 514.337.4455w: www.wengersltd.com

baselfeature

Hublot’s Marine Lemonnier Brennan

and Olivier Felicio


AIR MILES® CORPORATE INCENTIVES

GRAPHIC STANDARDS

Buffer Zone / Free SpaceThe buffer zone or free space around the logo must be 0.25”. This area must be clear of all text and/or graphics.

1

0.25”

CORPORATE INCENTIVES

0.25”

Logos ProvidedThese are the logos that will be provided to you. These graphic standards will apply to all logos. The English colour version is used as the primary example in the following pages.

CORPORATE INCENTIVESCORPORATE INCENTIVES

English – Available in Spot (Pantone), Process (CMYK, RGB, WEB), Black & White, and Black only.

French – Available in Spot (Pantone), Process (CMYK, RGB, WEB), Black & White, and Black only.

MESuRES INCITATIVESPOuR LES ENTREPRISES

MESuRES INCITATIVESPOuR LES ENTREPRISES

1004_07_AM_Incent_GraphicStandar1 1 3/16/07 12:17:50 PM

www.cardinalwatch.comEmail: [email protected]

Fax: 514-337-4581 Toll-free: 800-561-3214

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VEThe Colour of

Anita Agrawal creates timeless pieces with coloured gemstones By Bonnie Siegler

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designerprofi le

Even though she is not a jewellery designer by trade, Canadian native Anita Agrawal has 15 years’ experience in the � ne jewellery, manufacturing and wholesale industry. She also has a background in social anthropology,

e-business and politics. Most recently, Agrawal has been responsible for website development, o� ce management and volume corporate sales for her family’s company, Best Bargains Jewellery, a 2010 PROFIT W100 company. With this background, Anita combined her love of creativity and jewellery making into launching her own product line of jewellery in May 2010: “Jewels By Anita.”

“Gold prices were really starting to get very high and yet, there was still a demand for high-quality, a� ordable jewellery,” says Agrawal about the inspiration behind the formation of her product line. “I realized that this could allow me to try out some unique designs that would be of interest to an emerging middle market. � ere is always a demand for quality jewellery, but it’s the nature of those items that changes.” Indeed, Anita foresaw people purchasing classic – yet contemporary – pieces that were in the under - $2,000 category instead of luxury jewellery items. “Jewels by Anita really came out from me trying to explore custom designing. Best Bargains will be celebrating its 20th year in the industry, and I wanted to challenge their ideas and bring in something fresh to our traditional line of products.”

� e line, formally established last year, followed a rather organic process. “I was already fabricating pieces here and there for Best Bargains,” says Agrawal from her Toronto home. “My company name was suggested by one of our customers because I am drawn to and use primarily coloured stones for my pieces, and she thought it re� ected the simple elegance of my line.” In fact, Anita’s � rst jewellery design seven years ago was a double blue topaz briolette pendant with a South Sea pearl. “I have always loved South Sea pearls but found designs with them to be fairly expensive. Yet I was able to create our design for well under $200, and it’s still something we have in stock regularly.”

14k Yellow gold fresh water coin pearl necklace, accented with smokey quartz with 14k Yellow gold fresh water coin pearl earrings and 14k yellow gold fresh water coin pearl bracelet.

Anita Agrawal.

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Having attended major jewellery shows throughout Canada and the world, such as Inhorgenta, Basel, the Hong Kong Jewellery and Watch Fair, JCK Las Vegas, JCK

Toronto and the Prestige Expo in Montreal as an exhibitor, and working at a wholesale level, Anita gained valuable knowledge of what people are drawn to when looking at jewellery. “And that’s primarily value,” she says. “Value is not just about the monetary worth of something, but also about the quality of product and customer service experience.” Being in this industry from a young age, Anita has had the opportunity to have an insider’s look into customer purchasing habits and what design elements have stood the test of time.

Beginning with sterling silver, Anita has since segued to 14k gold, preferring this precious metal due to its investment purposes and what it ultimately adds to the value of the product. “I prefer yellow gold, though a lot of designers have started liking white metals. Oftentimes, the yellow makes certain stones such as rubies, tanzanite and emeralds stand out and adds so much more warmth to the pieces. With my line, I used those classic design elements so that each piece is something women of all ages can wear throughout the years.”

Ultimately, Anita has determined that frequent buyers of coloured stone designs are looking for a story to unfold. “Unlike diamonds, coloured stones offer a story of romance, nostalgia or an escape. People know diamonds, they understand diamonds and, when you see one, you know what it is emblematic of, but coloured stones remind us of a place, an adventure, a loved one or a

great vacation. It could be a special someone’s birthstone or a piece of jewellery with a coloured stone that has been handed down to them through generations.”

With Anita’s line, multi-coloured stones are used generously. “They just add such a huge splash of colour to your wardrobe and really make a bold impression.”

More popular designs run the gamut from earrings to 36-inch opera length necklaces, with best-selling gemstones being tanzanite, multi-coloured sapphires and mystic topaz. “Pieces with interesting cuts of gemstones have been very popular, as have concave cuttings. I have found earrings around $150 wholesale have been consistently popular with my customers.”

With global sales throughout Canada and the U.S., primarily at small and medium-sized jewellery stores and chains, what sets this line apart from others is its wearability and affordability factors. “It’s easy to transition the pieces from daytime casual to a glamorous evening look. None of the pieces are so delicate that they can only be worn on special occasions,” says Agrawal. The designs are essentially go-to pieces whether you’re in jeans and a tee, business suit or an evening outfit.

Being a novice in the ever-growing field of jewellery design, Anita says she will continue creating her popular motifs and begin integrating black and coloured diamonds into her collection. “My ultimate goal is to create timeless and classic pieces that really showcase the gemstone I’m working with and have it do the talking.” For more information about “Jewels by Anita,” please contact Anita at [email protected]. [CJ]

1

2

3

1) 14k white gold handmade tanzanite earrings, set with over 2 carats of tanzanite and accented with white sapphires.2) 14k yellow gold handmade multi-coloured sapphire earrings, set with over 4 carats of gemstones. 3) 14k yellow gold handmade green amethyst briolette earrings, accented with pink tourmaline.

designerprofile

XX-XX.CJ_DesignerProfile.indd 76 5/12/11 1:49:50 PM

WESTERN CANADIANJEWELLERYE X P O

Thank you to all participating exhibitors, sponsors, and attendeesfor making our 2010 show a huge success.

We look forward to seeing you again in 2011!

Shaw Conference Center - Halls B & C ∫ Edmonton, ABAugust 12th to 14th, 2011

www.wcjexpo.com - email: [email protected] - 780.467.9549

The WCJE is dedicated to providing Canadian jewellery retailers with the best opportunity to discover the latest industry trends offered by the industry’s leading suppliers.

The perfect place to buy, network and learn. Don’t miss Canada’s most successful jewellery event.

Shaw Conference Center - Halls B & C ∫ Edmonton, ABAugust 12th to 14th, 2011

[email protected] or [email protected] - 780.467.9549www.wcjexpo.com

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What’s in a watch case? There have been more developments in new alloys and materials for watch

cases in the past five years than in the previous 50 years. Not only have we seen titanium and ceramic take their place alongside steel, gold and platinum as standard materials for the construction of watch cases, the emergence of newly mixed alloys of palladium and aluminum, among other elements, is also underway in the laboratories of the big brands. The following watch brands have introduced new case materials recently that, while proprietary for now, give some indication of the future direction of this segment of watch engineering.

The case of Richard Mille’s RM038, also known as the Bubba Watson Tourbillon (named for the pro golfer) is made of AZ91, an aluminum/magnesium/zinc alloy, which is then coated with a ceramic compound called titalyt II. AZ91 is lightweight, yet durable enough to take the shock of Bubba’s killer drive (he is the longest driver on the PGA Tour). The watch’s bottom plate, bridges and balance cock are made of titanium. (Left)

Bes

t C

aseScenario

A flurry of new materials and alloys represents a transformation of the way watches are casedBy Carol Besler

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watchmaterials

Panerai recently introduced a new case material that is a composite of aluminum and ceramic, which is highly resistant to scratches and temperature changes and is lightweight. It has also released a Luminor Submersible with a bronze case, an alloy of copper and tin that is particularly resistant to salt water. Its aesthetic advantage is that it acquires an interesting patina over time, which gives it a vintage look. (Top)

The case of the Zenith El Primero Stratos Flyback chronograph is made of alchrom, an alloy of aluminum and steel that is lighter than steel, but just as hard. Since the base metal is aluminum, it can be anodized rather than PVD coated. So the color of the metal is changed rather than coated. The result here is an edgy black finish. The material is great for adventure watches; in fact, a special “Pole to Pole” edition of the watch is being made to commemorate the upcoming three-month journey from the North Pole to the South Pole by Swedish explorer Johan Ernst Nilson.

In the quest for an even greater clarity of sound from its minute repeaters Breguet has created something it unofficially calls “liquid metal,” as a kind of secondary casing around the movement of its new striking watch, the Hora Mundi. The coating, an anthracite grey alloy of platinum-related metals, amplifies the sound of the hammers striking the gongs.

Chanel, having put ceramic on the map with the introduction of the J12 a decade ago, has now developed a ceramic/titanium alloy that is diamond polished, which it calls chromatic. The ceramic, says Chanel, is yttrium-based rather than mineral-based, which makes it 20 per cent harder and more scratch-resistant (and more difficult to finish – diamonds are set into white gold, rather than directly into the chromatic case). It is also 5 per cent lighter than traditional ceramic, and is thermo-neutral. This year Chanel also created a ceramic rotor. (Middle)

Montblanc has entered the realm of new materials with a dual-carbon treated case, introduced in its TimeWalker Dual Carbon series. The case is finished with a special thermal carbon treatment in addition to the standard DLC (diamond-like carbon) finish, making it intensely durable and scratch-resistant.

Harry Winston uses its own trademarked zalium, an alloy of aluminum and zirconium, on its Project Z series of watches. The material is similar to the zirconium-based alloy used in aeronautical engineering because of its hardness. Combined with aluminum, zirconium is hypo-allergenic and corrosion-resistant, making zalium highly durable. It is also lightweight, and is known for its lustrous gunmetal finish. (Bottom) [CJ]

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The Industry of Fakes Counterfeit watches are boosting

a $650-billion criminal businessBy Cpl. Kelly Ross

In 1996, JVC entered into a partnership with the Royal Canadian Mounted Police. Thus began JVC’s commitment to assist and support law enforcement. Much has transpired over the past 15 years. Having just returned from a jewellery crime awareness training forum at RCMP Headquarters, I am encouraged by the level of engagement and interest shown by the RCMP members who participated. Cpl. Kelly Ross led the forum with his vast expertise and knowledge of our industry. Among the many topics covered, copyright infringement was front and centre. Cpl. Ross shares his knowledge and observations on this issue.

Phyllis Richard, Executive Director, JVC

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jvcfeature

In the village square of Nassau, Bahamas, is an artisanal market. Tented from the sun and housing hundreds of street vendors, one can � nd unique handcra� ed vacation souvenirs for any collection. Dispersed

within the same market are dozens of vendors that peddle counterfeit merchandise the likes of brand names such as Louis Vuitton, Chanel, Gucci and Rolex. Ironically, the historical Pirate Museum, only a block away from the market, would suggest that piracy had been eliminated in the 19th century. One block in the other direction is a genuine Rolex dealer.

By modern-day de� nition in Mirriam-Webster’s dictionary, piracy includes “the unauthorized use of another’s production, invention, or conception, esp. in infringement of copyright.” At the Nassau market, one vendor displays dozens of counterfeit Rolex and Gucci watches on a table at one of the most visible and desirable locals. � e table of watches is not hidden from view nor located away in a dark corner of the market. It is perfectly situated to intercept the tourists arriving by way of water taxi and cruise boat. A closer look at the so-called Rolex watches reveals they are counterfeit. � ey have many of the Rolex markings and even a hang tag that says Rolex. “How much for the Rolex watch?” I ask. “It’s $65,” says the vendor while handing it to me. He doesn’t bother to tell me it is a fake. I tell him, “A buddy of mine says I can get these for $30 in the market.” He says, “Not $30, you can have it for $45.” I told him I’d think about it, but before I le� he let me take a picture of the table of watches.

Counterfeit goods are certainly not limited to the Bahamas and Canada, and the rest of the world is not immune to this problem. High-value, brand-named watches are common targets of counterfeit manufacturers, and can be found at brick-and-mortar retail locations, � ea markets and increasingly through Internet sales.

� e sale of counterfeit goods can involve the criminal o� ences of the� and fraud. � e the� is in fact the the� of the copyright that is owned by the copyright holder. In general, a product name, logo, design or other creation made by someone is considered the creator’s property. Speci� cally, this is known as Intellectual Property Rights (I.P.R.) and the owner of the I.P.R has the right to use it in the manufacture and sale of their wares. In this respect, if someone engages in unauthorized use of another’s I.P.R., then there has likely been the� of that intellectual property. � e fraud can occur when someone sells a counterfeit article as the genuine goods. However, there are some who know that what they are purchasing is, in fact, counterfeit. Perhaps part of the problem is that the simple possession of these goods is not a crime under the Copyright Act.

� e I.P.R. holder is victim of these crimes, as are the people who purchase counterfeit goods believing they are the genuine articles. By some estimates this global the� of rights holders’ property is valued at approximately US$650 billion annually. While these numbers illustrate the magnitude of crime faced by the I.P.R holders and the public, what is hard to gauge – but clearly an issue – is the peripheral damage that extends to legitimate goods retailers. While the luxury watch market has seen excellent growth in the past decade, it could be expected that counterfeit watches would have a negative impact on the sales of the genuine watches. As such, the loss of sale of a genuine watch impacts beyond the sale of legitimate goods and extends potential losses to accessories and future sales of other products and services.

In Canada, the RCMP deals with counterfeit watches and other counterfeit merchandise through its Federal Enforcement Sections and Customs and Excise Units. O� en the RCMP, working with the Canada Border Services Agency (CBSA), can identify and prosecute those who engage in this criminal activity. However, assistance from the jewellery industry and the public is also very important in � ushing out the manufacturers and vendors of counterfeit goods. In addition, any successful prosecution requires the I.P.R. holder to assist police with authenticating goods seized, to con� rm they are counterfeit. [CJ]

Cpl. Kelly Ross is the coordinator of the “K” Division Diamond Program of the RCMP and is based in Edmonton, Alberta.

XX-XX.CJ_JVC.indd 81 5/12/11 1:23:48 PM

JCK and Couture shows offer something for all

Excitement builds around new products debuting at the Las Vegas shows in June

BY CAROL BESLER

Stuller is launching its White Dura Tungsten™ and Dura Cobalt™ collections, new alloys that are scratch resistant and color fast. Stuller is exhibiting in the Plumb Club at JCK Show.

C anadian retailers, who attend the JCK Show in Las Vegas in droves (1,000 Canucks attended last year), have high expectations this year. In this post-recessionary market, with the price of gold

soaring, the word on everyone’s shopping list is value, or as Ottawa retailer Judy Richards of Davidson’s Jewellers, says, “Big look, small price!” She adds: “For the under $1,000 market,” a segment that is growing in both quantity of brands and quality of workmanship. Others are aiming to strengthen relationships with existing suppliers and lock up co-op promotion and advertising deals for the coming year. “My goal is to expand my brand o� erings, possibly add a new watch line, and to network with other retailers,” says Pat � ompson of Diamond Design in St. John’s. Of course, the main goal is to search the JCK, LUXURY and Couture shows for trends and new materials, including the many new alloys and platings emerging in the market. Here is a sampling of some of the new products coming to Las Vegas for the June shows. � is is only a small selection of the thousands of new products launching at the show, and the only way to ensure you don’t miss anything is to attend! While the Couture Show remains at its usual venue this year – the Wynn Hotel, June 2-6 – the JCK Show occupies a new venue, at Mandalay Bay, June 3-6, with LUXURY at JCK from May 31 to June 6 also at Mandalay Bay. � e show � oor will be reorganized according to product groupings, and exhibitors can be searched at http://www.jcklasvegasshow.com/en/For-Buyers/Find-Exhibitors. [CJ]


XX-XX.CJ_JCK.indd 82 5/12/11 2:01:17 PM

showpreview

Smokecloak Instant Protection for Jewellers

What are you waiting for? Call for a Quote! [email protected] www.smokecloak.ca

Now that you have negotiated great insurance premiums, chances are your deductible has risen.What is protecting that deductible? Smokecloak will help you remain claim free!Install SmokeCloak® and within seconds of a break-in, the protected area is fi lled with an impenetrable cloud of fog. This provides an effective barrier and forces the intruders to leave the premises.

Diamond snake wrap bracelet by Amrapali. (JCK Show)

18k rose gold ring with cognac and white icy diamonds, by Hellmuth. (JCK Show)

Baroque South Sea and fresh water pearls with pink sapphire or yellow sapphire clasp from the Pastel Collection by Yvel. (Couture Show)


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EXCELLENCE iNdesignAward Ceremony & Reception

The Annual

To find out how you can become a sponsor of this prestigious event, please contact Olivier Felicioat [email protected] or call 416-203-7900 X 6107.

For complete details on how to enter your designs, contact Melanie Seth at [email protected] or 416-203-7900 X 6114.

NEW! Entry deadline is July 8th, 2011, 5 p.m. *Enter online as well at www.canadianjeweller.com

2011 Categories

1. DIAMONDS & COLOURED DIAMONDS: Any piece of jewellery that puts diamonds or coloured diamonds in the spotlight.Each design must have a minimum diamond content of 1 carat.

2. CANADIAN DIAMONDS: Entries must feature Canadian diamonds and be accompanied by certification attesting to each diamond’s Canadian ori-gin. Smaller accent stones need not be Canadian.

3. PEARLS: The central design element in these entries must be natural pearls. Other gemstones and diamonds can be usedas accent stones.

4. PLATINUM: The overall metal content of these designs must be a minimum of 75 percent platinum, but any combinationof gemstones and gold may be used.

5. COLOURED GEMSTONES: These entries, which must feature coloured gemstones as the central design element, will bejudged on creativity

Excellence In Design_NEW.qxd:Layout 1 5/16/11 9:19 AM Page 1

DESIGNER’S NAME

COMPANY OR STUDENT AFFILIATION

ADDRESS CITY

PROVINCE POSTAL CODE

PHONE FAX

EMAIL ADDRESS

CATEGORY

TYPE OF JEWELLERY VALUE OF DESIGN (SPECIFY RETAIL OR MATERIALS)

Describe the piece, including metal used and karat value, gemstone types, weights, cuts and colour. (Complex designs should be accompaniedby technical details.)

ENCLOSED IS: MY FINISHED PIECE(S) OF JEWELLERY.AN ENTRY FEE OF $30 (CHEQUE CAN BE MADE PAYABLE TO RIVE GAUCHE MEDIA.)

I understand the entry rules and regulations and I abide by those terms.

SIGNATURE

SEND ENTRY FORM TO: Excellence in Design, Rive Gauche Media, 60 Bloor Street West, Suite 1106, Toronto, ON M4W 3B8.

RULES, REGULATIONS AND INFORMATION

• Jewellery must have been designed and made in

Canada.

• Jewellery must incorporate precious metals and must

adhere to the criteria set out in each category.

• All gemstones must be natural. Synthetics are

not permitted. Students may substitute CZ for

diamonds.

• One submission per designer, per category.

• Contestant assumes all liability for designs and

jewellery submitted. Although we will take reasonable

precautions while the jewellery is in our possession,

Canadian Jeweller cannot be responsible for

insuring the jewellery. We suggest you extend your

own policy to cover your piece or pieces for loss,

theft or damage for the duration of the competition.

• In each category, three finalists will be selected.

Judges will then choose an overall winner in

each category.

• To enter, submit finished jewellery, an entry form and

a $30 fee for each package.

• Entry deadling is July 8th, 2011, 5 p.m.

• Entries will be returned by a courier at the expense of

the designer. To arrange for the return, please contact

a Canadian Jeweller representative at (416) 203-7900.

• Winning entries and all information provided about

the entries may be used for promotional purposes.

Slides, renderings and other reproductions of the de-

signs, as well as press releases, will also be used for

this purpose.

Entries will be judged on the basis of originality, cre-

ativity, beauty, wearability and quality of workmanship.

Consideration will also be given to marketability.

ENTER CANADIAN JEWELLER’SEXCELLENCE IN DESIGN COMPETITION

Excellence In Design_NEW.qxd:Layout 1 5/16/11 9:20 AM Page 2

An Ounce of Prevention is Worth 2,267.9 Carats of Cure.

Get your Crime Prevention Package:

• Access to a database on criminal activity • Alerts on jewellery crime in Canada• Crime Prevention Manual CD • Access to JVC Security Library • Crime Prevention Bulletins on effective security procedures

Sign up now at www.jewellerycrimecanada.ca or call 1-800-636-9536

Arm yourself with knowledge and tools to protect your business.

Jewellers Vigilance Canada

An independent, non-profit association to advance ethical practices within the Canadian jewellery industry.

C r i M e P r e V e n t i o n • r e S o u r C e P r o t e C t i o n • S A f e t y A w A r e n e S S

0052 JVC CanJewl Jun_JulF.indd 1 4/8/11 8:23:17 AM

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CJ_JVC.indd 1 5/11/11 10:08:43 AM

showcaseA D V E R T I S I N G

For more information on how to advertise in this section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please contact: Lucy Holden 514-381-5196, [email protected]

Summer collection

1400 Sauve O. # 227 . Mtl, Qc . H4N 1C5 Tel.:514.332.9298 Fax: 514.332.4158 [email protected] www.bandacanada.com

Variety of Styles & colors

Ready

Catalogues available on request

Swiss

Beginning August 1st 2011

Hagerty Distributors

H&W Perrin416-422-4600

Burney Giftware416-736-9990

Prestige Pak Inc.514-387-8888

Reliable Watch / Jean Michel514-866-1095

Habsons Jewellery Supply604-708-9700

Once again, we are running our popular summer promotion and there will be lots of free product. Don’t miss out! Contact any of the Hagerty distributors listed below for more details.

Visit us online at www.hagertycanada.ca.

SUMMER PROMOTIONPut your logo here

bfl y.ca - bfl yusa.com

Meet us at

The

JCK Las Vegas Show

Booth B5183


CREATIVE GEMS Inc.Serving the Industry Since 1992

Precious, Semi-precious, Loose Gemstones, Diamonds and all kinds of Beads

Now CarryingColoured Diamonds

21 Dundas Sq., Suite 712, Toronto, ON Canada M5B 1B7Tel: 647-430-8969 • Fax: 647-439-0782 • Cell: 416-319-3378

e-mail: [email protected] • website: www.mittaljewels.com

Factory: B-125, Sethi Colony, Jaipur, India

Creative Gems layout 4/28/11 5:39 PM Page 1

087-094.CJ_Showcase-Market.indd 87 5/11/11 11:26:27 AM



pure beautyhas a name...

Exclusively available in Canada through

J.W. HISTED DIAMONDS LTD.Vancouver, B.C.1-800-663-1458

Online inventory

www.jwdiamonds.ca

All NORDIC FIRE Diamonds are GIA Certified for accurate grading.

J.W. Histead showcase ad:Layout 1 3/4/09 1:41 PM Page 1


showcase_ad.indd 1 05/05/2011 6:46:04 PM




MBDB50001CT - 18KVS2-S11

$560Machine

Set

MCDB50201.30CT - 18K

VS2-S11$675

MachineSet

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$1350

MBDB50151.40CT - 18K

VS2-S11$750LCDB5025

1CT - 18KVS2-S11

$515 LCDB50501.50CT - 14K

VS2-S11$735

Fits Sub& GMT

18KY - $325SS - $100

Inserts$25

LBDB50151CT - 18KVS2-S11

$550

LCDB50702CT - 14KVS2-S11

$935LDBD5005.70CT - 18K

VS2-S11$415

Your Headquarters For All Rolex Aftermarket Accessories

We Stock ManyDifferent Styles And Sizes Of Aftermarket Watchbands, Including SS, Two Tone, 14K And 18k All Gold Watchbands.

To

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888.699.8947F.S. ENTERPRISEwww.fsenterprise.com

RLPD515 18K 1.85ct $2700

RMPD500 18KY $2850

RMJ1010 SS $100

RLJ2012 18K/SS $400 Two Tone

RLO3025 18K/SS $425 Two Tone

RMJ1002 18K/SS

$575 Two Tone

RMO4055R

18K/SS

Rose Gold

$600

We Also Stock Date, Mid-size, And No Date Diamond Bezels.

F.S. Enterprise is Not Affiliated with Rolex Watch, U.S.A., Inc. Rolex is a Registered Trademark of Rolex, U.S.A., Inc.

Price based on $1000-$1100 Gold

HOTSELLER

HOTSELLER

1059Findco_DZ 1 3/16/10 1:49:00 PM

27 Queen St, East, Suite 1100, Toronto, Ontario M5C 2M6T: 416.955.9415 • Toll Free: 800.216.0899 • F: 416.955.9621www.midasjewelryinc.ca • Email: [email protected]





A D V E R T I S I N G

marketplaceA D V E R T I S I N G


703-27 Queen St. E., Toronto, ON, M5C2M6416.368.2690 [email protected]

catalogue available upon request

MCD PEARL IMPORTSa selection of strands, loose pearls and pearl jewellery

MCD Pearls Showcase 1/20/11 5:08 PM Page 1

PRECIOUS METALS DEALEREXPRESS GOLD REFINING LTD.

ASSAYING • REFINING •• NO MINIMUM LOTS OR MINIMUM CHARGES• 4TH GENERATION EXPERIENCEIN PRECIOUS METALS TRADELET US EARN YOUR TRUSTWeb: www.xau.caTel: (416) 363-0584 • Fax: (416) 363-9633 • Toll Free: 1-888-401-111121 Dundas Square, Suite 401, Toronto, ON M5B 1B7 Email:[email protected]

Project2:Express Gold Marketplace ad 2/25/09 3:11 PM Page 1

400 - 215 Victoria St, Toronto, ON M5B 1T9Phone: 416.363.0584 | Toll-Free: 1.888.401.1111

Email: [email protected]

ExprEss Gold rEfininG ltd.YOUR PRECIOUS METALS DEALER

Express Gold Refining has acquired the latest Assaying technology to provide you with the fastest and most accurate results. We guarantee to settle your GOLD, SILVER, PLATINUM and DENTAL scrap in less than an 1 hour of receiving it. We will return to you gold bars, silver, platinum or buy your metal at the most competitive market prices.

Express Gold Refining is YOUR PRECIOUS METAL DEALER OF CHOICE.Please visit our website for the latest up-to-the minute prices in the Canadian Market.http://www.xau.ca

SOUTH CHINA JEWELLERY LTD

SOUTH CHINA JEWELLERY LTD

MIDTOWN PLAZA , SASKATOONCORNWALL CENTRE , REGINA

SOUTH CHINA JEWELRY LTD.International Importer, Manufacturer, Retail and Wholesale of High Quality Diamonds

and Jewellery. Serving Canada since 1985.

HAVING PROBLEMS FINDING THE RIGHT DIAMONDS FOR THE RIGHT PRICE?• Specialize in rounds and princess cut diamonds 0.01ct - 2.00ct.

• Excellent cut diamonds in G.I.A. and E.G.L. Certificates• Diamond Semi Mounts available in Latest design

Southchinajewelry.comOpen 7 days a week for your convenience

Ph: 1-306-931-3328 Fax: 1-306-975-96271st Avenue Midtown Plaza Saskatoon, SK S7K 1J9




marketplaceFor more information on how to advertise in this section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please contact: Lucy Holden 514-381-5196, [email protected]

Insurance for Customers Jewellery

cjFebMar10_CJB_Ad_rev.indd 1 1/29/10 3:14:36 PM

• Finishing: 2 weeks turn around

• Print, Mill, Grow your CAD, STL files 2-3 days

• Casting Provided

• All jobs set under microscope

• Our jobs guaranteed

410 Chrislea Rd, Unit 9, Woodbridge, OntarioTel: 905-264-9976 • Toll Free: [email protected] • www.prestigemfg.ca

Since 1996

CUSTOM DESIGN & FINISHING

PRINT, MILL & GROW

SERVICE GUARANTEE

J O H N ’ S W H O L E S A L E

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The Murano Collection™

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YADIRA BARAHONACELL: 519-617-2468

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COLOMBIAN EMERALDS

DIRECT DISTRIBUTORFROM THE MINES

WHOLESALE

If You’re Reading It, You Know It Works!

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Call: 1.888.358.8186



from as low asComplete System $125/month

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Jewelry Sales Reps. WantedCanadian Distributorship and

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See us atNew York Intl. Gift

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FEATURING OUR MOST POPULAR COLLECTIONS

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WEDDING BANDSTENNIS MOUNTSRING MOUNTSRINGS, CHARMSBRACELETS/BANGLES10K, 14K, 18K, PLATINUM &STERLING SILVER JEWELLERYCHAINSITALIAN JEWELLERYFINDINGS/METAL FINDINGSTITANIUM/TUNGSTEN/COBALT &STAINLESS STEEL JEWELLERYJEWELLERS TOOLSBOX & DISPLAYSAND MORE...

NEW

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SERVICES WE OFFERENGRAVING OF GOLD, METALS AND GLASS

PHOTO ENGRAVINGLASER SOLDERING

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Happy Anniversary

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VIEW OUR CATALOGUES ONLINE @w w w . M A R Y J E W E L L E R Y . c o m

COLLECTION







CanadianJeweller.indt 1 7/15/09 12:13:12 PM

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Studio Publicity ad Final May 5th.indd 1 5/5/09 7:06:44 PM

STEWART’S HOROLOGYREPAIR & RESTORATION

• QUALITY service & attention to detail• 5 highly qualified technicians• Large inventory of parts & access to all major supply houses• Repairs to fine watches, quartz & mechanical• Restoration of pocket watches

1515 Portage Avenue, Winnipeg, MB R3G 0W7, CanadaTel: (204) 789-9620 Email: [email protected]

You’ve probably noticed a change in Canadian Jeweller covers the past few issues, as they’ve featured some of the top retailers in the industry. We’re always looking for new businesses to shine a spotlight on, so if you’re interested, we’d love to hear from you.

To have your store grace the cover of an upcoming CJ, and to expose your business to a whole new audience, make sure to send an email request to [email protected]

Callingall Canadian Jewellery

Retailers...

PLUS: ALL THE LATEST MARKET NEWS, TRENDS & EVENTS

JUNE/JULY 2011

Scan Me! to go to our new CJ website

f o r t h e b u s i n e s s o f r e t a i l i n g j e we l l e r y s i n c e 1879

David and Darren Barthau of

Barthau Jewellers, Stouffville, ON.

David and Darren Barthau of

The FamilyIt Runs InBaselworld 2011

Watchmakers celebrate recovery with a dazzling show

READER’SCHOICE COVER!44% of voters!

LaLa Diamond Cutting & Repairs Inc.

• Cutters of Rough Diamonds• Old Mine Cuts and Repairs to All Shapes

• Buy Diamond Roughs and Broken Diamonds

21 Dundas Square, Suite 805Toronto, Ontario M5B 1B7Tel/Fax: (416) 368-6883

email: [email protected]

Lala Diamond PDF:Layout 1 12/10/08 6:52 PM Page 1

LaLa Diamond Cutting & Repairs Inc.\ Cutters of Rough Diamonds

\ Old Mine Cuts and Repairs to All Shapes\ Buy Diamond Roughs and Broken Diamonds

Over 20 Years [email protected]

Ramesh MistryTel: 416-368-6883

21 Dundas Square, Suite 805Toronto, Ontario M5B 1B7

• GOLD• YELLOW• WHITE• PINK• GREEN• STERLING• BRONZE

• PALLADIUM• PLATINUM• SILVADIUM• S-STEEL• PRESET• MOLDS• ALLOYS

ALLOYCOINTERNATIONAL INC

CALL TOLL FREE: 1-888-475-5384Phone: 514-845-5384 • [email protected] • www.alloyco.com

55 Mont Royal W., suite 600, Montreal, Quebec, Canada, H2T 2S6


087-094.CJ_Showcase-Market.indd 93 5/12/11 4:54:14 PM



ABA.B. MACHINERY

PlasticInjectorsNew & Used

PULSE POINT STUDIO 60 STUDIO 30LASER WELDERS

New & Used machinery andequipment for jewellersBUY - SELL - TRADEwww.abmachinery.com

Tel: (514) 737-1660Fax: (514) 737-9335

Toll Free: (888) 901-8888Email: [email protected]

ABA.B. MACHINERY




Tel: (514) 737-1660Fax: (514) 737-9335


ABA.B. MACHINERY




Tel: (514) 737-1660Fax: (514) 737-9335


Refining - Assaying - Trading

Let Us Earn Your Confidence-Call Us Before You RefineTel: (416)7366052 Fax:(416)7364334 Toll Free:1-800-785-2371

Actual size 3.9" by 2.0"

Precious metal specialists and refiners of gold and platinum jewellery scrap

Web:www.refinegold.ca E-mail: [email protected] 359 Canarctic Drive,Downsview, Ontario, M3J 2P9

Check for our refining specials and on line prices At: www.refinegold.ca and www.goldrefiner.ca

Refine-All Metals Ltd.

Oakville, Ontario jewellery store, established 30+ years in busy plaza with loyal customer base and excellent reputation. Turnkey operation with display cases, safes, security system. With or without inventory. Serious enquiries, please email to: [email protected]

BUSINESS OPPORTUNITY


classifiedFor more information on how to advertise in this section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please contact: Lucy Holden 514-381-5196, [email protected]

H & W PERRIN Co. LtdCanada’s Leading Supplier of Watch & Clock Materials

PERRINS’ stocks a complete range of findings and settings for the jeweller and adeep stock of materials for the clock & watchmakers

We inventory a large selection of tools, equipment & supplies for all the trades.

A long standing tradition of service since 1929.If you aren’t doing business with us, you’re doing it the hard way!PHONE: (416) 422-4600 . . . . . .Toll Free 1-800-387-5117FAX: (416) 422-0290 . . . . . .Toll Free 1-800-741-6139

� [email protected]

Perrin ad:Layout 1 3/23/09 7:00 PM Page 1

Opportunity exists for established jewellery sales agents to take on a huge range of jewellery without having to carry a single sample. Bee jewellery have introduced a revolutionary new iPad selling system, which replaces the tradi-tional sample range. Approved agents will be supplied with a brand new iPad, installed with sim card, and software containing a complete range of Bee jewellery. Bee Jewellery, based in Australia, has now been servicing Canadian customers for more than 10 years, and is already famous for it’s Bee retail System and unconditional 10 year guarantee on all products. Email your inquiry to [email protected]

Bee Jewellery - Australia - www.beejewel.com.au

AGENT WANTED - ALL PROVINCESBilingual sales professional, connected with the best Canadian retailers, with extensive experience in the fine jewellery industry, is looking for a nice high quality sterling silver line with a catalogue and good marketing support. Also interested in a high quality 14k gold & diamond jewellery line, imported from Asia.Please call: 514 865 7235 or email [email protected]

LINES WANTED

A unique fashion jewellery store of brand name suppliers. Well established business and clientele for 26 years in Sahali Mall - Kamloops, BC. For more information call Beverly 250-372-3339 or 250-374-0949

FOR SALE 3 B Best Beauty Buys Well established company with excellent

reputation, looking for experienced Sales Representatives across Canada.

Please call Toll-Free: 1-866-264-9976

AGENT / REP WANTED

Ann-Louise Jewellers is an established retail company based in Vancouver with 14 stores throughout B.C and Calgary. We are seeking dynamic, performance-driven people who are looking for a career opportunity as STORE MANAGER. As a retailer with a reputation for quality and service, our inventory collection includes fine diamond jewellery, giftware and leading watch brands. YOU are a resourceful, hands-on individual with strong organizational skills and leadership quali-ties. You are goal oriented and thrive in the retail environment. You will also have a minimum 3 years experience in jewellery management. Compensation is a competitive salary and bonus package corresponding to the candidate’s back-ground and experience. Comprehensive benefits also offered. Please forward your resume to [email protected].

JEWELLERY STORE MANAGER

Accountant to reputed Canadian jewellersBookkeeping, Financial Statements, Taxes,

Budgeting and Projections

Subhash Sharma MBA, CMACertified Management Accountant

ENS Associates Inc.100 King Street West, Suite 5700, Toronto, ON M5X 1C7

Tel: 416-439-4648Email: [email protected]

Web: www.ensassociates.ca



JOIN YOUR COLLEAGUESSUNDAY, AUGUST 7 - TUESDAY, AUGUST 9, 2011METRO TORONTO CONVENTION CENTRE - NORTH BUILDINGTORONTO, ONTARIOR E G I S T E R A T : W W W . J C K T O R O N T O . C A

Shop the best selection of products from over 150 designers and manufacturers

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W H E R E C A N A D I A NJ E W E L L E R S CO M E

TO G E T H E R


CJ_JCK Toronto.indd 1 5/11/11 10:14:46 AM

sectionhead

Fax Now to: 1-888-849-0155 or 416-703-6392 | or Mail card today to: 60 Bloor St. West, Suite 1106, Toronto, ON, M4W 3B8

PAGE

096 GET FREE INFORMATION! SEE A PRODUCT YOU LIKE? WANT MORE INFORMATION, ABSOLUTELY FREE?…

on any product advertised in this issue

BY FAXOR MAIL

1. See product you want info on

2. Use this quick reference list below to fi nd its free info number (it’s also on the ad)

3. Write the number(s) on the attached free info card

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Pierre Laurent 71 129Wengers 73 130Western Canadian Jewellery Expo 77 131Smokecloak 83 132Jewellers Vigilance Canada 86 133JCK Toronto 95 134Expo Prestige 97 135Elle Jewelry 99 136Mirage Creations 100 137Stuller 14 140Pandora 14 141Nova Diamonds 14 142Elle Jewelry 14 143Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair 16 144PH Design 16 145Western Canadian Jewellery Expo 16 146Ready Mounts 16 147Jewelers Mutual Insurance 17 148Jewelers Mutual Insurance 17 149Bulova 17 15024 Gold Group 17 151Image Fifth Avenue 17 152Polygon 18 153Butterfl y Gem 18 154Chamilia 18 155GIA 18 156Midas Jewelry 18 157

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lastword

Sometimes just the right combination of colour, cut and imagination results

in a mouthwatering piece of jewellery that looks good enough to eat. This

cascade of rubellites, each surrounded by a halo of diamonds, rubies or pink

sapphires, resembles a luscious cluster of ripe cherries. Designed by Fawaz

Gruosi of de Grisogono, the earrings comprise 16 cabochon-cut rubellites,

167 rubies, 280 pink sapphires and 270 white diamonds. Yum!

By Carol Besler

PickingCherry


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Mirage Creations Inc.221 Victoria Street, Lower Level, Toronto, Ontario, Canada M5B 1V4

Local: (416) 366-9595 Toll Free: (877) BY MIRAGE Fax: (416) 366-9677www.miragecreations.com e-mail: [email protected]


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Documents

Canadian Jeweller - June/July 2011 Issue