Ascena Global Sourcing Apparel Inspection …csivendormanual.com/.../VendorApparelInspectionSOPv1.pdf · AGS Apparel Inspection Requirements for Vendors V1.0 ... Inspection, General

Ascena Global Sourcing

Apparel Inspection Requirements for Vendors Version 1.0

AGS AppDecembDepartm

1.0 PUR2.0 APP3.0 PRE4.0 CON5.0 SCH6.0 IN‐7.0 FIN8.0 GA9.0 REP10.0 RE‐11.0 INS12.0 CAN

4.0 AQL MAJOR /DEFECT BRAND CKEY POI

1.0 PUR

parel Inspectber 2013 ment: Produc

RPOSE ………PLICATION …E‐INSPECTIONFIRMATIONHEDULING …PROCESS INSAL RANDOMRMENT MEAPORTING ……‐INPSECITONSPECTION CHNCELLATION

GENERAL IN/ MINOR DEZONES ………CONTACTS …NTS OF MEA

POSE

tion Require

ct Integrity

………………………………………ON ………………N ……………………………………SPECTION …M INSEPCTIOASUREMENT……………………N …………………HARGES ………N AND TERM

NSPECTION LEFECTS …………………………………………………ASURE …………

ements for V

TABL

………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………ON (FRI) ………T AND ACCEP……………………………………………………………

MINATED INS

LEVELS ………………………………………………………………………………………

Vendors V1.0

1

LE OF CONT……………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………PTANCE …………………………………………………………………PECTION PO

APPENDIC

……………………………………………………………………………………………………

0

TENT …………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………OLICY …………

CES

……………………………………………………………………………………………………

…………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………

……………………………………………………………

…………………………………………

…………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………

………………………………………………………………………………………………………

……….. APPEN……….. APPEN………. APPEN

………… APPEN………… APPEN

……… 2 ……….. 2 …….. 2 ……… 2 …… 2‐3 ……… 3 …….. 3‐4 ………4‐5 ……… 5‐6 ………. 6 ………. 6 ………. 7

NDIX A NDIX B NDIX C NDIX D NDIX E

AGS Apparel Inspection Requirements for Vendors V1.0 December 2013 Department: Product Integrity

2

To maintain the quality of the product sold to our customers by implementing a standard operating procedure for apparel inspections conducted by third party providers. (Inspectors)

2.0 APPLICATION This procedure applies to all apparel inspections conducted for The Dress Barn, Inc., Maurices Incorporated, Tween Brands, Inc., Catherine’s Stores Corporation and Lane Bryant, Inc. wholly‐owned subsidiaries of Ascena Retail Group, Inc

3.0 PRE‐INSPECTION The Inspection will be done following ASCENA GLOBAL SOURCING Inspection Procedures.

3.1 Upon arrival at the factory, the Inspector should have available to them an inspection package

to be used during the inspection. This should include the following: 3.2

3.2.1 Copy of Style # and Purchase Order (P.O.)

3.2.2 Approved reference sample (Factory sample is acceptable)

3.2.3 BRAND specific graded measurement sheet

3.2.4 Approved color swatch and/or shade bands (Factory samples are acceptable)

3.2.5 An inspector should never wait more than 2 hours beyond the scheduled inspection time. If after waiting 2 hours, if the goods are not ready for inspection, the inspection must be rendered Not Ready. The vendor/factory is responsible for incurred costs and is required to reschedule the inspection at a later time.

3.2.6 Upon arrival if merchandise has been shipped and is no longer available the

inspection is rendered Not Ready and the vendor/factory is responsible for incurred costs.

4.0 CONFIRMATION The 3rd PARTY SERVICE PROVIDER’S regional coordination center will provide confirmation of receipt of inspection information, inspection dates, and all related inspection processes to the brand’s Product Integrity Department.

5.0 SCHEDULING The Brand’s Product Integrity Dept. will notify the Vendor/Factory of the style that will be inspected, PO and quantity selection 4 weeks prior to the x‐factory date.


3

5.1 The vendor/factory must contact the third party inspection company via email a minimum of two weeks prior to the desired inspection date referencing the BRAND style number, PO number and quantity.

5.2 The Inspection Date is determined by the type of inspection requested as outlined in section 6.0 In Process and 7.0 Final Random.

6.0 IN‐PROCESS INSPECTION

The following in‐process inspection procedures are to be used in conjunction with the final inspection procedures outlined in Section 7.0 below.

6.1 The purpose of an in‐process inspection is to help a factory, the vendor and the client

to identify potential problems early enough in the manufacturing process so that they can be corrected and the quality of the product improved.

6.2 The in‐process inspection is conducted on finished garments when the production

stage is 20‐30% complete and has gone through the factory’s QC process. Garments are not required to be packed.

6.3 Results of this inspection are then discussed in detail with the factory management so

that the factory can develop and present to the BRAND a corrective action plan to address any deficiencies found. Note: The 3rd PARTY SERVICE inspector cannot give an opinion or advice regarding how to correct defects.

7.0 FINAL RANDOM INSPECTION (FRI)

The following inspection procedures are to be used independently or in conjunction with the In‐Process Inspection in Section 6.0. 7.1 Inspections should be conducted on the bulk PO and in conjunction with the E‐

commerce PO when available.

7.2 Inspections must be conducted on finished garments when production is 100% complete. Failure to comply will result in an aborted inspection. Garments are required to be 80% packed at the time of inspection, unless otherwise specified.

7.3 Inspections are conducted in accordance with ANSI/ASQC ZI.4‐2008, Normal Inspection, General Level II. The AQL level is 4.0 for both major and minor defects and no critical defects are allowed in the shipment. See Appendix A – 4.0 AQL General Inspection Levels.

7.4 Major and minor defects are listed on a chart to provide a clear overview of quality to allow the BRAND to analyze the inspection data effectively. The zone where the defect is located is listed on the report along with the photo reference if applicable. See Appendix B for a complete list of apparel major/minor defects and Appendix C for defect zones.


4

7.4.1 Critical Defect: Any defect or feature of the product that may pose a safety

hazard to the customer. Zero tolerance will be applied to the acceptable quantity of critical defects found within a shipment.

7.4.2 Major Defect: Anything that adversely affects the appearance, performance including fit or customer satisfaction to a degree that would provide a discerning customer with justification of non‐purchase, a return or a complaint or would be considered not commercially acceptable

7.4.3 Minor Defect: Any variation from the standard that is not sufficient in degree to be classified as major and that would not provide a discerning customer with justification for non‐purchase a return or complaint.

7.5 Labeling information is checked against the information provided by the BRAND. If a

label is missing, wording is misspelled or wording is not legible, this is considered a major defect. Labeling is checked on all units in the sampling.

7.6 Items sold as a set such as a swim suit, pajama or dress/jacket ensemble is counted as

1 unit.

7.7 Inspection results are reviewed with the factory manager upon completion and a signed draft copy of the inspection report left with the factory.

7.8 Finalized inspection reports will be emailed to the appropriate BRAND contact by the

inspector within 24 hours of completion of the inspection.

7.9 The factory may not ship until the report is reviewed by the BRAND QA and an acknowledgment is transmitted to the factory.

8.0 GARMENT MEASUREMENT AND ACCEPTANCE

The inspection procedure is in accordance with a 4.0 AQL level II. All inspections require a 32 piece sampling for measurement; all sizes and colors must be proportionately represented in the measurement sampling. The BRAND specific graded measurement sheet is used to verify measurements. See Appendix E for Key Points of Measure.

8.1 Tolerances on the BRAND specific graded measurement sheet are used to determine

measurement defects.

8.2 If a garment has more than one point of measure out of the allowable tolerance the garment with the measurement defect(s) is only counted once.

8.3 Measurement discrepancies are evaluated separately from visual or workmanship

defects; therefore, measurements out of tolerance are not included in the workmanship defect count.


5

8.4 For inspections rejected due to measurement, garments with the measurement

defects may be requested to be sent to the BRAND for review, at the vendor/factory expense.

9.0 REPORTING

The draft report and all units with defects must be reviewed with the factory manager. The signed drafted copies should be left with the factory and emailed to the BRAND contact for reference. 9.1 MEASUREMENT SHEETS The BRAND measurement and tolerances are used to determine any measurement defects. Key points of measure and tolerance are documented on the measurement sheet

9.1.1 The Inspector must make the measurement sheets legible with the key points of measure clearly written, including tolerance. Indicate size, color and actual measurement should all be noted.

9.2 GARMENT AND FABRIC DEFECTS Defects are categorized as critical, major or minor depending on the severity.

9.2.1 To determine whether a defect is major or minor, the following factors are considered: • Whether the defect will render the item unsalable. • The severity of the defect. • The location (zone) of the defect on the item.

9.2.2 Defects are identified by an arrow sticker pointing to the defected area and a photo submitted with the inspection report. 9.2.3 Photos should clearly depict all defects identified in the report.

9.3 LABELS Garment labels are compared to the reference sample and /or the BRAND approved Tech pack. 9.3.1 The BRAND name on the main label along with the care instructions, the fiber

content and the factory ID # should match the information in the pre‐inspection documents.


6

9.4 PRICE TICKETS The price tickets on each inspected unit must match the information on the PO (Manufacturer #, class, style #, price, color code). 9.4.1 Any discrepancies are noted as a major defect. 9.4.2 Price tickets are not scanned but it will be noted if the information is not legible

or the barcode is missing. This will be counted as a major defect.

9.5 CARTONS Carton numbers are recorded; any discrepancies are noted on the inspection report.

10.0 RE‐INSPECTION Re‐inspections are conducted after the factory has failed an inspection. Goods must be sorted 100% and the complete shipment reworked. 10.1 The factory is responsible to schedule the re‐inspection with 3rd PARTY SERVICE

regional coordination center.

10.2 The same 3rd PARTY SERVICE must be used for the re‐inspection.

10.3 Goods must be 100% packed for re‐inspection.

10.4 A complete inventory list of carton numbers must be provided

10.5 The previous FRI report must be available to the inspector prior to the re‐inspection and the re‐inspection conducted only on the previous failed sections.

10.6 Inspection results are reviewed with the factory manager upon completion and a signed draft copy of the inspection report should be left with the factory.

10.7 Goods cannot ship without a passing re‐inspection.

10.8 The vendor/factory is responsible for all re‐inspection fees.

11.0 INSPECTION CHARGES

All inspections are paid by the vendor/factory. Payment agreements and/or arrangements between the vendor/factory and 3rd PARTY SERVICE provider should be established prior to inspection.


7

12.0 CANCELLATION AND TERMINATED INSPECTION POLICY 12.1 The 3rd PARTY SERVICE regional coordination center must be notified a minimum of 1

business day prior to the scheduled inspection to cancel or postpone an appointment. Additional advanced notice may be necessary if the inspector is required to travel to the inspection location.

12.2 If notice of cancellation or postponement is made in less than 1 business day prior to the confirmed inspection date, the factory will be billed for one full man‐day and any out of pocket expenses.

12.3 If timely notice is provided and no advanced charges have been incurred, there will be no charge.

12.4 If the inspection is started, and at the request of the factory representative the inspection is stopped prior to completion, this is to be considered a terminated inspection. 12.4.1 The Factory will be billed for one full man‐day and all travel and out of pocket

expensed will be incurred.


8

Appendix A

AQL 4.0

General Inspection Levels

ANSI/ASQC Z1.4 Single Sampling Plan for Normal Inspection, General Inspection Level II

Lot Size Level II Major/Minor Defects Measurement Measurement

Sample Size Accept / Reject Sample Size Accept/Reject 26 ‐ 50 8 1/2 8 1/2 51 ‐ 90 13 1/2 13 1/2 91 ‐ 150 20 2/3 20 2/3 151 ‐ 280 32 3/4 32 3/4 281 ‐ 500 50 5/6 32 3/4 501 ‐ 1,200 80 7/8 32 3/4

1,201 ‐ 3,200 125 10/11 32 3/4 3,201 ‐ 10,000 200 14/15 32 3/4

10,001 ‐ 35,000 315 21/22 32 3/4 35,001 ‐ 150,000 500 21/22 32 3/4


9

Appendix B Major / Minor Defects Major Minor

1. Rips, holes or cuts on any part of the product x a. Runs and dropped stitches (knits) x b. Snags & pulls x c. Slubs more than ¼” at critical zone, or ½” at non‐critical zone x d. Slubs less than ¼” at critical zone, or ½” at non‐critical zone x e. Needle chew resulting in fabric weakness x f. Permanent creases on fabric x g. Bowing/skewing on plain fabrics more than 1” per garment width or length x h. Bowing/skewing on plain fabrics up to 1” per garment width or length x i. Bowing/skewing on striped fabrics more than ½” per garment width or length x j. Bowing/skewing on striped fabrics up to ½” per garment width or length x k. Nap &/or pile deformation x l. Undesirable odor x

2. Shading Defects a. Shade/color match on part to part against standard worse than rating 5 on AATCC grayscale x b. Shade/color match of garment fabric & trim against standard worse than rating 4‐5 on AATCC grayscale x c. Dye spots, streaks, or barre marks noticeable from 15” distance at critical zone x d. Dye spots, streaks or barre marks not noticeable from 15” distance at critical zone x e. Fault in print registration or placement adversely affecting appearance x f. Fault in print registration or placement that is apparent, but not significant x

3. Cleanliness a. Spots, stains & soil marks larger than 1/8” diameter x b. Spots, stains & soil marks less than 1/8” diameter x c. Multiple thread ends not trimmed x d. Excessive fly &/or contamination on the garment x

4. Component Parts & Assembly a. Missing parts x b. Missing operation x c. Operations not done per approved sample and product specification x d. Any non‐conforming component affecting appearance and serviceability x e. Misalignment of parts, pockets, flaps, trims, etc. more than ¼” x f. Inconsistent nap direction if specified x


10

5. Seams and Stitching

a. Open seam ¼” or more x b. Skipped chain stitch x c. Incomplete seam (two or more stitches) x d. Double stitching gap 1/8” or over x e. Needle holes x f. Part of a garment caught in unrelated seam or operation, distorting fit/appearance x

g. Seams twisted, puckered or pleated, affecting appearance x h. Improper stitch tension (too loose or tight) that affects appearance x i. Ends of stitching not backstitched, tied in, or securely caught in other seams or stitching x j. Raw edges (other than specified) outside x k. Gauge or edge stitching irregular; i.e., unevenly gauged, affecting appearance x l. Conspicuous repairs x m. Piecing/joining of binding &/or trims on critical zone of garments x n. Monofilament yarn being used as a sewing thread in any type of stitching x

6. Pressing a. Burned or scorched x b. Over‐pressed to leave seam impression or deforming surface effect on the garment x c. Stretched or distorted during pressing x d. Excessive wrinkles that require pressing x e. Evident shine caused by improper pressing x

7. Labels, Hangtags, Emblems & Embroidery a. Missing or wrong tags, hangtags, price tags, etc. x b. Hangtags insecurely attached or misplaced x c. Wrong main or legal label attached x d. Label attached more than 3/8” beyond specified location x e. Label sewn with monofilament yarn x f. Label sewing thread does not match color x g. Label sewing seam uneven, puckered and 1/8” or more away from label edge x h. Label omitted or insecurely attached x i. Emblems omitted or wrongly placed x j. Emblems attached without a cam, not following the contour of the emblem x k. Emblems attached crooked x l. Label sewn beyond label edge x m. Bobbin & needle thread color not matching fabric and label or emblem color respectively x n. Care instructions do not meet U.S. legal requirements x o. Fiber label does not meet U.S. Textile Fiber Products Labeling Act x


11

8. Pockets

a. Not in specified location by more than ¼” x b. Shaped poorly x c. Set or sewn crooked x d. Not or specified size and shape; size in excess of ¼” x e. Edge margin of stitching not uniform x f. Flaps not properly placed x g. Puckers at the flap joins x h. Slanted pocket flaps (not per specification) x

9. Collar and Cuffs a. Fullness or puckers at collar attachment x b. Collar points not uniform and balanced x c. Conspicuous puckers on collar joining x d. Misaligned, crooked collar setting more than ¼” x e. Misaligned, crooked collar setting less than ¼” x f. Puckered and/or crooked top stitching x g. Pleated &/or puckered cuffs at sleeve joint in woven cuff x h. Fullness or twist of cuff affecting appearance x i. Misaligned cuffs at bottom x j. Rib collar or cuffs set too tight, so do not have enough stretch x k. Neck opening does not meet the minimum neck stretched x

10. Plackets a. Top and bottom placket length not equal: Top not covering bottom x Top ¼” longer than bottom x Top over ¼” longer than bottom x b. Dimple at the bottom of placket easily visible within 3 feet x c. Crooked placket top stitch x d. Top placket not covering up bottom placket by more than 1/8” for shirts and ¼” for sweaters x

11. Closures

a. Buttons missing and/or damaged x b. Buttons misplaced and/or misaligned, causing poor appearance and distortion x c. Buttons not sewn securely (easily pulled off) x d. Buttons not as specified size, type or color x e. Buttonholes omitted or added x f. Buttonholes uncut x g. Buttonholes misplaced or not aligned as specified, causing bad appearance x h. Buttonholes not sewn securely (unravel easily) x i. Defective snaps or fasteners that do not function x j. Misalignment of fasteners, causing bad appearance x k. Snaps and grommets that are not properly set x l. Snaps that do not fasten properly and/or release very easily x m. Improper zipper setting, causing wavy appearance x n. Wrong size, type, color zipper x


12

Closures (continued) o. Defective zipper sliders x p. Defective zipper stops on open front jackets x q. Tight clearance between the slider and the seam edge causing slider to operate with difficulty x r. Rivets not properly and securely set x s. Rivets with rough edges x

12. Stripes, Checks & Piping Matches a. Stripes not matched as specified: up to ¼” x over ¼” x

13. Finishing and Hand a. Permanent wrinkles and/or deformation on the garment x b. Pressed poorly or not pressed at all x c. Over‐pressed and/or improperly finished to deform shapes, designs or patterns on the fabric surface x

14. Folding and Packaging Not as specified per product spec and/or Routing Guide x

15. Measurements Any measurement beyond specified tolerances per product specification sheet x

16. Design and Colorway Not according to approved sample or specification x

17. Gauge Knitted on different gauge machine than specified gauge x

18. Shipping Carton Mark Wrong and/or incomplete shipping carton markings x Note: * Any MAJOR defect makes a garment unacceptable * Two or more MINOR defects in a critical zone make a garment unacceptable


13

Appendix C – Defect Zones


14


15


16


17


18

Appendix E Key Points of Measurement Tops Body Length – Front /Back Bust/Chest Waist Sweep Across Shoulder Sleeve Length Sleeve Width @ opening Armhole Strap Length – Camis

KNIT TOP: Neck Opening Neck Stretch WOVEN TOP: Neck Opening (excludes button‐downs) Neck Depth (excludes button‐downs) Sleeve Width 1” below armhole Across Back Armhole

Dresses Body Length – Front /Back Neck Opening Neck Depth Neck Stretch – knit Bust/Chest Waist Low Hip Sweep Sleeve Length Armhole Belt Length


19

Bottoms (Pants, Shorts, Skirts, Skorts)

Waist (Relaxed and Extended for Elastics) Hip Thigh Front Rise Back Rise Inseam Leg opening Sweep CF Length CB Length Belt Length

Outerwear (Coat, Hoodie, Jacket, Vest)

Body Length – Front /Back Bust / Chest Sweep Across Shoulder Sleeve Length Sleeve Width 1” below armhole Armhole Hood Opening at CF

Swim 1‐PC:

Trunk Length Bust/Chest Hip at top of leg opening Leg Opening Full Armhole Strap length

2‐PC Top

Bust/Chest Bra bottom band (sweep) Length Full armhole Strap length (if not full armhole)

Bottom Waist Hip at top of leg opening Front Rise Back Rise


20

Leg opening

Panties Waist relaxed Waist Extended Hip at top of leg opening Front Rise Back Rise Leg opening Leg Extended (Adults Only) Front & Back Coverage (Adults Only) Gusset length & width (Adults Only)

Bras Shaped

Bottom band relaxed Front neckline length Strap length

Sport

Bust/Chest Sweep relaxed Sweep extended Strap length

2‐pc Sleep Sets Use TOP and BOTTOM

Robe Use DRESSES


21

BRAND Contacts: Sandra Furia ‐ VP Product Integrity [email protected] 8323 Walton Parkway New Albany, OH 43054 614.775.3684 Matthew Berry ‐ Director Product Integrity ‐ Lane Bryant [email protected] 3344 Morse Crossing Columbus, OH 43219 614.463.5523 Jaci Elston – Manager Product Integrity – Justice/Brothers [email protected] 614‐775‐3542 8323 Walton Parkway New Albany, OH 43054 Leah Socker ‐ Sr Manager Product Integrity ‐ Catherines [email protected] 215.638.6929 3750 State Road Bensalem, PA 19020 Lori Klina – Testing Specialist, Product Integrity – Catherines [email protected] 215.638.6921 3750 State Road Bensalem, PA 19020 Rose Marconi – Coordinator Product Integrity – Catherines [email protected] 215.638.4833 3750 State Road Bensalem, PA 19020 Kerry Amborn – Manager Product Integrity – maurices [email protected] 218.720.2148 105 W. Superior Street Duluth, MN 55802

Documents

Ascena Global Sourcing Apparel Inspection …csivendormanual.com/.../VendorApparelInspectionSOPv1.pdf · AGS Apparel Inspection Requirements for Vendors V1.0 ... Inspection, General