Ascena Global Sourcing Apparel Inspection SOP - CSIcsivendormanual.com/.../AGS_Apparel_Inspection_SOP_v2.pdf · AGS Apparel Inspection SOP V2.0 ... atherine’s Stores Corporation

Ascena Global Sourcing

Apparel Inspection SOP Version 2.0 March 2016

AGS Apparel Inspection SOP V2.0 Department: Product Integrity

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TABLE OF CONTENT

1.0 PURPOSE …………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………… 2 2.0 APPLICATION …………………………………………………………………………………………………………………….. 2 3.0 PRE-INSPECTION ……………………………………………………………………………………………………………….. 2 4.0 CONFIRMATION ………………………………………………………………………………………………………………… 2 5.0 SCHEDULING …………………………………………………………………………………………………………………….. 3 6.0 IN-PROCESS INSPECTION …………………………………………………………………………………………………… 3 7.0 FINAL RANDOM INSEPCTION (FRI) ………………………………………………………………………………….. 4-5 8.0 GARMENT MEASUREMENT AND ACCEPTANCE …………………………………………………………………. 5 9.0 REPORTING ……………………………………………………………………………………………………………………… 5-6 10.0 RE-INPECTION …………………………………………………………………………………………………………………. 7 11.0 INSPECTION CHARGES ………………………………………………………………………………………………………. 7 12.0 CANCELLATION AND TERMINATED INSPECTION POLICY ……………………………………………………. 8

APPENDICES

4.0 AQL GENERAL INSPECTION LEVELS …………………………………………………………………….. APPENDIX A MAJOR / MINOR DEFECTS ……………………………………………………………………………………….. APPENDIX B DEFECT ZONES …………………………………………………………………………………………………………. APPENDIX C BRAND CONTACTS …………………………………………………………………………………………………… APPENDIX D KEY POINTS OF MEASURE ………………………………………………………………………………………… APPENDIX E REQUIRED PHOTOS …………………………………………………………………………………………………. APPENDIX F PHOTO TEMPLATE …………………………………………………………………………………………………… APPENDIX G


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1.0 PURPOSE

To maintain the quality of the product sold to our customers by implementing a standard operating procedure for apparel inspections.

2.0 APPLICATION Applies to all apparel inspections conducted for The Dress Barn, Inc., Maurices Incorporated, Tween Brands, Inc., Catherine’s Stores Corporation and Lane Bryant, Inc. wholly-owned subsidiaries of Ascena Retail Group, Inc

3.0 PRE-INSPECTION Inspection will be done following ASCENA GLOBAL SOURCING Inspection Procedures.

3.1 In advance or upon arrival at factory, Inspector should have available to them an

inspection package to be used during inspection, which will include the following (Inspector should continue performing the inspection if any of the below are not available and should be reported in the special notes section of the inspection report):

3.1.1 Copy of Style # and Purchase Order (P.O.)

3.1.2 Approved reference sample (Factory sample is acceptable)

3.1.3 BRAND specific graded measurement sheet

3.1.4 Approved color swatch and/or shade bands (Factory samples are acceptable)

3.1.5 An inspector should never wait more than 2 hours beyond the scheduled

inspection time. If after waiting 2 hours, if the goods are not ready for inspection, the inspection must be rendered Not Ready. The factory is responsible for incurred costs and is required to reschedule the inspection at a later time.

3.1.6 Upon arrival if merchandise has been shipped and is no longer available or

inspector is requested to go to another location, the inspection is rendered Not Ready. Factory is responsible for incurred costs.

4.0 CONFIRMATION

4.1 The 3rd PARTY SERVICE PROVIDER’S regional coordination center must provide

the Brand confirmation of receipt of inspection information within 1 business day.

4.2 Regional coordination center should make contact with factory within 2

business days. If after two attempts within 5 business days and no contact has been made, regional coordination center should contact the Brand.


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4.3 Regional coordination center is responsible for scheduling inspections with

factory and updating the shared file to include scheduled date and x-factory via email to the Brand.

5.0 SCHEDULING

5.1 Approximately 30 days is required for a shipment to arrive to the DC, therefore,

inspections should be scheduled 5-6 weeks prior to the “In DC Date” listed on the activity recap log (this is not to be confused with x’factory date).

5.2 Scheduling of in-process and final inspections must be consistent with logic and

reasonable production capabilities. Thus, a final inspection must not be scheduled nor conducted in the day following the in-process inspection unless the total production quantity is so small it is reasonable that in-process inspection can be conducted one day then a full final inspection of the completed product the following day.

5.3 The factory will supply the regional coordination center the production status

including the PO, style # and quantities available. Factory will schedule the in-process and final inspection dates base on this information. The regional coordination center will coordinate the inspection scheduling with the factory, but the authorization/request to conduct in-process and/or final inspection shall come from the Brand.

5.4 The regional coordination center and factory agree on the inspection date

which is noted on the shared activity recap log. The regional coordination center will send an updated copy of the activity recap log to the Brand once per week or as needed.

6.0 IN-LINE INSPECTION (If Requested)

The following in-process inspection procedures are to be used in conjunction with the final inspection procedures outlined in Section 7.0 below.

6.1 The purpose of an in-line inspection is to help a factory, the vendor and the client to

identify potential problems early enough in the manufacturing process that can be corrected and the quality of the product improved.

6.2 The in-line inspection shall be conducted on finished garments when the production

stage is 0- 20%, or otherwise stated by the Brand, complete and have gone through the factory’s QC process. The sampling size should be based on the number of finished units. Garments are not required to be packed.

6.3 Results of this inspection are discussed in detail with the factory management so that

the factory can develop and present to the BRAND a corrective action plan to address


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any deficiencies found. Note: The 3rd PARTY SERVICE inspector cannot give opinion or advice regarding how to correct defects.

7.0 FINAL RANDOM INSPECTION (FRI)

The following inspection procedures are to be used independently or in conjunction with the In-Line Inspection in Section 6.0.

7.1 Sampling for inspections should include all PO’s.

7.2 Inspections must be conducted on finished garments when production is 100%

complete. Garments are required to be 80% packed at the time of inspection, unless otherwise specified by the Brand.

7.3 If the scheduled style is not 100% complete and 80% packed as required, inspector will

follow the below percentage chart:

Less than 20% complete, issue not ready report

21-80% complete – conduct in-line inspection, final inspection must be rescheduled

81-99% complete – conduct final inspection, report as FAILED due to incomplete quantity presented.

7.3 Inspections are conducted in accordance with ANSI/ASQC ZI.4-2008 (formally MIL-STD

105E), Normal Inspection, General Level II. The AQL level is 4.0 for both major and minor defects and no critical defects are allowed in the shipment. See Appendix A – 4.0 AQL General Inspection Levels.

7.4 Major and minor defects should be listed on a chart to provide a clear overview of

quality to allow the BRAND to analyze the inspection data effectively. The zone where the defect is located should be listed on the report along with the photo reference if applicable. See Appendix B for a complete list of apparel major/minor defects and Appendix C for defect zones.

7.4.1 Critical Defect: Any defect or feature of the product that may pose a safety

hazard to the customer. Zero tolerance will be applied to the acceptable quantity of critical defects found within a shipment.

7.4.2 Major Defect: Anything that adversely affects the appearance, performance including fit or customer satisfaction to a degree that would provide a discerning customer with justification of non-purchase, a return or a complaint or would be considered not commercially acceptable

7.4.3 Minor Defect: Any variation from the standard that is not sufficient in degree to be classified as major and that would not provide a discerning customer with justification for non-purchase a return or complaint.

7.5 Labeling information should be checked against the information provided by the

BRAND. If a label is missing, wording is misspelled or wording is not legible, this is considered a major defect. Labeling shall be checked on all units in the sampling


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7.6 Items sold as a set such as a swim suit, pajama or dress/jacket ensemble must be

counted as 1 unit. Sample size does not increase.

7.7 Inspection results are to be reviewed with the factory manager upon completion and a signed draft copy of the inspection report left with the factory.

7.8 Upon completion of the inspection, Inspector should email the signed draft report to

the BRAND contact for reference.

7.9 Finalized typed inspection reports must be emailed to the appropriate BRAND contact by the inspector within 24 hours of completion of the inspection. See Appendix D for BRAND contacts.

7.10 The factory may not ship until the report is reviewed by the BRAND QA and an

acknowledgment is transmitted.

8.0 GARMENT MEASUREMENT AND ACCEPTANCE Please refer to Appendix A for the sampling size required for the measurement portion of the inspection; all sizes and colors must be proportionately represented in the measurement sampling. The BRAND specific graded measurement sheet must be used to verify measurements. See Appendix E for Key Points of Measure.

8.1 Tolerances on the BRAND specific graded measurement sheet will be used to

determine measurement defects.

8.2 If a garment has more than one point of measure out of the allowable tolerance the garment with the measurement defect(s) is only counted once.

8.3 Measurement discrepancies should be evaluated separately from visual or

workmanship defects; therefore, measurements out of tolerance should not be included in the workmanship defect count.

8.4 For inspections rejected due to measurement, all garments with the measurement

defects must be sent to the BRAND for review, at the Vendor/Factory expense. Representative samples should be marked appropriately with defect stickers and should not be removed prior to shipping the requested samples. For workmanship defects representative samples are to be included in sealed package and processes for shipment by factory while inspector is present. Inspector must include airway bill / shipment number in final inspection report.

9.0 REPORTING

The draft report and all units with defects must be reviewed with the factory manager. The signed drafted copies should be left with the factory and emailed to the BRAND contact for reference upon completion. A finalized typed report should be submitted within 24 hours to the BRAND, Vendor and Factory.


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9.1 MEASUREMENT SHEETS The BRAND measurement and tolerances will be used to determine any measurement defects. Key points of measure and tolerance are documented on the measurement sheet

9.1.1 A copy of the measurement specification sheet in the BRAND format must accompany the measurement data in the final inspection report.

9.1.2 Measurement sheets must be legible with the key points of measure clearly written, including tolerance. Indicate size, color and actual measurement should all be noted.

9.2 GARMENT AND FABRIC DEFECTS Defects are categorized as critical, major or minor depending on the severity.

9.2.1 To determine whether a defect is major or minor, the following factors will be considered:

Whether the defect will render the item unsalable.

The severity of the defect.

The location of the defect on the item.

9.2.2 Defects should be identified by an arrow sticker pointing to the defected area and a photo should be submitted with the inspection report. Stickers must not leave a residue or mark on the item.

9.2.3 Photos should clearly depict all defects identified in the report. If multiple

garments are found with the same type of defect only one photo is sufficient. In cases when there is a variance in the severity of a specific defect multiple photos are required.

9.3 LABELS

Garment labels should be compared to the reference sample and /or the BRAND approved Tech pack. 9.3.1 The BRAND name on the main label along with the care instructions, the fiber

content and the factory ID # should match the information in the pre-inspection documents. Any discrepancies must be noted as a major defect.

9.3.2 Photos of all labels are required in the photo section of the inspection report

9.4 PRICE TICKETS The price tickets on each inspected unit must match the information on the PO (Manufacturer #, class, style #, price, color code). 9.4.1 Any discrepancies must be noted as a major defect. 9.4.2 Price tickets should not be scanned but should be noted if information is not

legible or barcode is missing. This should be counted as a major defect. 9.4.3 Photos of tickets are required in the photo section of the inspection report


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9.5 CARTONS

Carton numbers must be recorded; any discrepancies should be noted on the inspection report as data and not counted as a defect.

9.6 REQUIRED PHOTOS See Appendix G for a list of required photos and Appendix H for the photo template 9.6.1 Photos should be clear so that the defect is identifiable. 9.6.2 Photos should be named according to the photo template. 9.6.3 Photos named as other should be clearly defined.

10.0 RE-INSPECTION

Re-inspections are to be conducted after the factory has failed an inspection. Goods must be sorted 100% and the complete shipment reworked. The inspection company will post on shared portal when the re-inspection date has been confirmed.

10.1 Factory is responsible to schedule re-inspection with 3rd PARTY SERVICE regional

coordination center.

10.2 The same 3rd PARTY SERVICE must be used for the re-inspection and preferably the same inspector.

10.3 Goods must be 100% packed for re-inspection.

10.4 A complete inventory list of carton numbers must be provided

10.5 The previous FRI report must be available to the inspector prior to the re-inspection and conducted only on the previous failed sections (workmanship or measurement).

10.6 Inspection results are to be reviewed with the factory manager upon completion and a signed draft copy of the inspection report should be left with the factory. A finalized report must be emailed within 24 hours to the appropriate BRAND.

10.7 Goods cannot ship without a passing re-inspection.

10.8 Vendor/Factory is responsible for all re-inspection fees.

11.0 INSPECTION CHARGES All inspections are paid by the Vendor/Factory. Payment agreements and/or arrangements between Vendor/Factory and 3rd PARTY SERVICE provider should be established prior to inspection.


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12.0 CANCELLATION AND TERMINATED INSPECTION POLICY 12.1 The 3rd PARTY SERVICE regional coordination center must be notified a minimum of 1

business day prior to the scheduled inspection to cancel or postpone an appointment. Additional advanced notice may be necessary if the inspector is required to travel to the inspection location. 12.1.1 If notice of cancellation or postponement is made in less than 1 business day

prior to confirmed inspection date, the factory will be billed for one full man-day and any out of pocket expenses.

12.2 If timely notice is provided and no advanced charges have been incurred, there will be no charge.

12.3 If the inspection is started, and at the request of the factory representative the inspection is stopped prior to completion, this is to be considered a terminated inspection. 12.3.1 The inspector is to obtain why the inspection was stopped and record this in

the comments section of the report. 12.3.2 The inspector is to include the total number of samples inspected and record

all inspection findings at the point of termination. 12.3.3 The Factory will be billed for one full man-day and all travel and out of pocket

expensed will be incurred.


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Appendix A

AQL 4.0 General Inspection Levels

ANSI/ASQC Z1.4 Single Sampling Plan for Normal Inspection, General Inspection Level II

Lot Size Level II Major/Minor Defects Measurement Measurement

Sample Size Accept / Reject Sample Size Accept/Reject

26 - 50 8 1 / 2 8 1/2

51 - 90 13 1 / 2 13 1/2

91 - 150 20 2/3 20 2/3

151 - 280 32 3 / 4 32 3/4

281 - 500 50 5/6 32 3/4

501 - 1,200 80 7/8 32 3/4

1,201 - 3,200 125 10/11 32 3/4

3,201 - 10,000 200 14/15 32 3/4

10,001 - 35,000 315 21/22 32 3/4

35,001 - 150,000 500 21/22 32 3/4


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Appendix B Major / Minor Defects Major Minor

1. Rips, holes or cuts on any part of the product x a. Runs and dropped stitches (knits) x b. Snags & pulls x c. Slubs more than ¼” at critical zone, or ½” at non-critical zone x d. Slubs less than ¼” at critical zone, or ½” at non-critical zone x e. Needle chew resulting in fabric weakness x f. Permanent creases on fabric x g. Bowing/skewing on plain fabrics more than 1” per garment width or length x h. Bowing/skewing on plain fabrics up to 1” per garment width or length x i. Bowing/skewing on striped fabrics more than ½” per garment width or length x j. Bowing/skewing on striped fabrics up to ½” per garment width or length x k. Nap &/or pile deformation x l. Undesirable odor x

2. Shading Defects a. Shade/color match on part to part against standard worse than rating 5 on AATCC grayscale x b. Shade/color match of garment fabric & trim against standard worse than rating 4-5 on AATCC grayscale x c. Dye spots, streaks, or barre marks noticeable from 15” distance at critical zone x d. Dye spots, streaks or barre marks not noticeable from 15” distance at critical zone x e. Fault in print registration or placement adversely affecting appearance x f. Fault in print registration or placement that is apparent, but not significant x

3. Cleanliness a. Spots, stains & soil marks larger than 1/8” diameter x b. Spots, stains & soil marks less than 1/8” diameter x c. Multiple thread ends not trimmed x d. Excessive fly &/or contamination on the garment x

4. Component Parts & Assembly a. Missing parts x b. Missing operation x c. Operations not done per approved sample and product specification x d. Any non-conforming component affecting appearance and serviceability x e. Misalignment of parts, pockets, flaps, trims, etc. more than ¼” x f. Inconsistent nap direction if specified x

5. Seams and Stitching a. Open seam ¼” or more x b. Skipped chain stitch x c. Incomplete seam (two or more stitches) x d. Double stitching gap 1/8” or over x e. Needle holes x f. Part of a garment caught in unrelated seam or operation, distorting fit/appearance x


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g. Seams twisted, puckered or pleated, affecting appearance x h. Improper stitch tension (too loose or tight) that affects appearance x i. Ends of stitching not backstitched, tied in, or securely caught in other seams or stitching x j. Raw edges (other than specified) outside x k. Gauge or edge stitching irregular; i.e., unevenly gauged, affecting appearance x l. Conspicuous repairs x m. Piecing/joining of binding &/or trims on critical zone of garments x n. Monofilament yarn being used as a sewing thread in any type of stitching x

6. Pressing a. Burned or scorched x b. Over-pressed to leave seam impression or deforming surface effect on the garment x c. Stretched or distorted during pressing x d. Excessive wrinkles that require pressing x e. Evident shine caused by improper pressing x

7. Labels, Hangtags, Emblems & Embroidery a. Missing or wrong tags, hangtags, price tags, etc. x b. Hangtags insecurely attached or misplaced x c. Wrong main or legal label attached x d. Label attached more than 3/8” beyond specified location x e. Label sewn with monofilament yarn x f. Label sewing thread does not match color x g. Label sewing seam uneven, puckered and 1/8” or more away from label edge x h. Label omitted or insecurely attached x i. Emblems omitted or wrongly placed x j. Emblems attached without a cam, not following the contour of the emblem x k. Emblems attached crooked x l. Label sewn beyond label edge x m. Bobbin & needle thread color not matching fabric and label or emblem color respectively x n. Care instructions do not meet U.S. legal requirements x o. Fiber label does not meet U.S. Textile Fiber Products Labeling Act x

8. Pockets a. Not in specified location by more than ¼” x b. Shaped poorly x c. Set or sewn crooked x d. Not or specified size and shape; size in excess of ¼” x e. Edge margin of stitching not uniform x f. Flaps not properly placed x g. Puckers at the flap joins x h. Slanted pocket flaps (not per specification) x


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9. Collar and Cuffs a. Fullness or puckers at collar attachment x b. Collar points not uniform and balanced x c. Conspicuous puckers on collar joining x d. Misaligned, crooked collar setting more than ¼” x e. Misaligned, crooked collar setting less than ¼” x f. Puckered and/or crooked top stitching x g. Pleated &/or puckered cuffs at sleeve joint in woven cuff x h. Fullness or twist of cuff affecting appearance x i. Misaligned cuffs at bottom x j. Rib collar or cuffs set too tight, so do not have enough stretch x k. Neck opening does not meet the minimum neck stretched x

10. Plackets a. Top and bottom placket length not equal: Top not covering bottom x Top ¼” longer than bottom x Top over ¼” longer than bottom x b. Dimple at the bottom of placket easily visible within 3 feet x c. Crooked placket top stitch x d. Top placket not covering up bottom placket by more than 1/8” for shirts and ¼” for sweaters x

11. Closures

a. Buttons missing and/or damaged x b. Buttons misplaced and/or misaligned, causing poor appearance and distortion x c. Buttons not sewn securely (easily pulled off) x d. Buttons not as specified size, type or color x e. Buttonholes omitted or added x f. Buttonholes uncut x g. Buttonholes misplaced or not aligned as specified, causing bad appearance x h. Buttonholes not sewn securely (unravel easily) x i. Defective snaps or fasteners that do not function x j. Misalignment of fasteners, causing bad appearance x k. Snaps and grommets that are not properly set x l. Snaps that do not fasten properly and/or release very easily x m. Improper zipper setting, causing wavy appearance x n. Wrong size, type, color zipper x o. Defective zipper sliders x p. Defective zipper stops on open front jackets x q. Tight clearance between the slider and the seam edge causing slider to operate with difficulty x r. Rivets not properly and securely set x s. Rivets with rough edges x


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12. Stripes, Checks & Piping Matches a. Stripes not matched as specified: up to ¼” x over ¼” x

13. Finishing and Hand a. Permanent wrinkles and/or deformation on the garment x b. Pressed poorly or not pressed at all x c. Over-pressed and/or improperly finished to deform shapes, designs or patterns on the fabric surface x

14. Folding and Packaging Not as specified per product spec and/or Routing Guide x

15. Measurements Any measurement beyond specified tolerances per product specification sheet x

16. Design and Colorway Not according to approved sample or specification x

17. Gauge Knitted on different gauge machine than specified gauge x Note: * Any MAJOR defect makes a garment unacceptable * Two or more MINOR defects in a critical zone make a garment unacceptable


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Appendix C – Defect Zones


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Appendix D BRAND Contacts:

CATHERINES

Rose Marconi –Specialist, Product Integrity [email protected]

215.638.4833

3750 State Road Bensalem, PA 19020

Lori Klina – QA Testing Specialist, Product Integrity [email protected]

215.638.6921

3750 State Road Bensalem, PA 19020

DRESSBARN

Sophia Legros – Manager, Product Integrity [email protected] 551.777.6314 933 MacArthur Boulevard Mahwah, NJ 07430

JUSTICE

Jaci Custer – Manager, Product Integrity [email protected] 614-775-3542 8323 Walton Parkway New Albany, OH 43054

Dionne Henry – Specialist, Product Integrity [email protected] 614-775-3212 8323 Walton Parkway New Albany, OH 43054

LANE BRYANT

Matthew Berry – Director, Product Integrity [email protected] 3344 Morse Crossing Columbus, OH 43219 614.463.5523

Ashley Gabel – Analyst, Product Integrity [email protected] 3344 Morse Crossing Columbus, OH 43219 614.463.5151

MAURICES

Kerry Amborn – Manager, Product Integrity [email protected] 218.720.2148 425 W. Superior Street Duluth, MN 55802

Bre Ludwig –Specialist, Product Integrity [email protected] 218.206.3240 425 W. Superior Street Duluth, MN 55802

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Appendix E Key Points of Measurement Tops Body Length – Front /Back Bust/Chest Waist Sweep Across Shoulder Sleeve Length Sleeve Width @ opening Armhole Strap Length – Camis

KNIT TOP: Neck Opening Neck Stretch WOVEN TOP: Neck Opening (excludes button-downs) Neck Depth (excludes button-downs) Sleeve Width 1” below armhole Across Back Armhole

Dresses Body Length – Front /Back Neck Opening Neck Depth Neck Stretch – knit Bust/Chest Waist Low Hip Sweep Sleeve Length Armhole Belt Length


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Bottoms (Pants, Shorts, Skirts, Skorts)

Waist (Relaxed and Extended for Elastics) Hip Thigh Front Rise Back Rise Inseam Leg opening Sweep CF Length CB Length Belt Length

Outerwear (Coat, Hoodie, Jacket, Vest)

Body Length – Front /Back Bust / Chest Sweep Across Shoulder Sleeve Length Sleeve Width 1” below armhole Armhole Hood Opening at CF

Swim 1-PC:

Trunk Length Bust/Chest Hip at top of leg opening Leg Opening Full Armhole Strap length

2-PC Top

Bust/Chest Bra bottom band (sweep) Length Full armhole Strap length (if not full armhole)

Bottom Waist Hip at top of leg opening Front Rise Back Rise Leg opening


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Panties

Waist relaxed Waist Extended Hip at top of leg opening Front Rise Back Rise Leg opening Leg Extended (Adults Only) Front & Back Coverage (Adults Only) Gusset length & width (Adults Only)

Bras Shaped

Bottom band relaxed Front neckline length Strap length

Sport

Bust/Chest Sweep relaxed Sweep extended Strap length

2-pc Sleep Sets Use TOP and BOTTOM

Robe Use DRESSES


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Appendix F Required Photos General

Front Entrance Sealed Defects

Labels Main Factory ID Fiber Content Size Care Instructions Price Ticket Front Price Ticket Back

Samples Reference Sample Front Reference Sample Back Production Sample Front Production Sample Back

Workmanship Defects Carton Markings Other – Please define


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Appendix G Photo Template

Facility Name

Date

BRAND style # and PO #

PHOTOGRAPHS -

Factory Entrance Seal Defect Samples

LABELS

Main Label Factory ID Label

Fiber Content Label Size Label


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Care Instructions Price Ticket Front

Price Ticket Back

SAMPLES (Show Production Samples in ALL COLORS)

Reference Sample Front Reference Sample Back

Production Sample Front Production Sample Back


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WORKMANSHIP DEFECTS


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CARTON MARKINGS

OTHER – Please define

Documents

Ascena Global Sourcing Apparel Inspection SOP - CSIcsivendormanual.com/.../AGS_Apparel_Inspection_SOP_v2.pdf · AGS Apparel Inspection SOP V2.0 ... atherine’s Stores Corporation