Ascena Adult’s Testing Manual V 5images.dressbarn.com/VendorPages/dressbarn/Ascena... · Ascena Adult’s Product Testing Manual Version 5.0 August 2016 CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE:

Ascena Adult’s Testing Manual

V 5.0

2 Ascena Adult’s Product Testing Manual Version 5.0 August 2016

CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This Manual contains information that is proprietary and confidential, and is intended for use solely by Ascena Retail Group vendors for the production of The Company’s brand merchandise. It may not be used for any other purpose. Any disclosure, copying, distribution or other use of the information contained herein is STRICTLY PROHIBITED. 2013 Ascena Retail Group.

TABLE OF CONTENTS

APPAREL FABRIC TESTING – WOVEN……….……………………………………………………………………3

APPAREL FABRIC TESTING – KNIT………...………….………………………………………………………….5

APPAREL GARMENT TESTING – WOVENS…….…………………………………………………………………7

APPAREL GARMENT TESTING – KNITS…..…….………….…………………………………………………….9

APPAREL GARMENT TESTING – INTIMATE APPAREL & SLEEPWEAR.……………………………….11

APPAREL GARMENT TESTING – SWIMWEAR & SWIM COVER….………………………………………14

APPAREL GARMENT TESTING – SWEATERS..….………………..……………………………………………16

APPAREL FABRIC & GARMENT TESTING – DENIM..……………………………………………………..…18

APPAREL LEATHER & SUEDE – SKINS & GARMENTS……..……………………………………………….20

ACCESSORIES – SOCKS, TIGHTS, LEGWARMERS, ARMWARMERS…..……………………………….21

ACCESSORIES – FASHION SCARVES, HATS, GLOVES, COLD WEATHER SCARVES….……….…22

ACCESSORIES – BELTS, BACK PACK, SOFT SIDED TOTE, HANDBAG, WALLET, CLUTCHES,

COIN PURSE, TRAVEL BAGS.…….……………………………………………………………………………..… 23

FOOTWEAR….….……….…………………………………………………………………………………………….....24

ZIPPERS…..…….……………………………………………………………………………………………………..…..25

BATH, BODY & COSMETICS………..…………………………………………………………………………..…..27

CANDLES & CANDLE HOLDERS.…..………..……………………………………………………………..………31

EYEWEAR.…….………………………………………………………………………………………..…………33

JEWELRY & HAIR ACCESSORIES….….…………………………………………………………………………...34

CHECK LIST ……………………………………………………………………………………………………………….36



Apparel Fabric Testing – Woven PROTOCOL-001

Submit:A minimum of two (2) yards in one (1) colorway must be submitted for full package testing. One half (1/2) yard of each additional color is to be

submitted for additional colorway testing (as applicable).Submitted fabric must be representative of finished bulk fabric that will be used in garment production. Note: Actual sample quantity required may be communicated separately by TESTING SERVICE PROVIDER if the samples submitted are not large enough to work with. Evaluation Test Methods Requirements

Flammability (General Wearing Apparel) non-exempt fabrics– all colors

16 CFR 1610 Canada SOR/2011-22

Class I Must Comply with Regulations

Fiber Content AATCC 20/20A For blends, +/- 3% maximum For single fibers, +/- 0% tolerance

Weight – all colors ASTM D3776 +5%/- 5%

Dimensional Stability: Home Laundering (1x and 3x)– all colors

AATCC 135 modified

+/- 3% Spandex Blends: +/- 4% Rayon, CV Rayon Blends +/- 5% Modified = adding multi fiber test fabric

Dimensional Stability: Dry-cleaning (1x) – all colors

AATCC 158 or Professional Method

modified

+/- 2% Modified = adding multi fiber test fabric

Appearance Evaluation After Home Laundering/ Dry-cleaning– all colors

ARG-00002 -MTHD-APPEARANCE AFTER

CARE

Surface Appearances (refer to ARG-00002) for a complete list of

examples.

i.e. color change to print, loss of glitter, change in sheen = 3.5

i.e. frosting, pilling, fraying, embellishment falling off = satisfactory

*Actual color change of the fabric color should be evaluated via the separate test method, Colorfastness to Home Laundering AATCC 135 Modified

Seam Strength/ Seam Slippage Shell

� ≤ 3.0 oz/yd2 ( <101.7 gm/m2) � > 3.0 - 4.0oz/yd2 ( > 101.7 ~ 135.6gm/m2) � > 4.0 - 6.0oz/yd2 ( > 135.6 ~ 203.4gm/m2) � >6.0 oz/yd2 ( > 203.4 gm/m2)

Lining � <3 oz/yd2 ( < 101.7 gm/m2) � ≥ 3oz/yd2 ( ≥ 101.7 gm/m2)

ASTM D1683

15 lbs min 20 lbs min 25 lbs min 30 lbs min 15 lbs min 20 lbs min

Tensile Strength

ASTM D5034

Shell

� ≤ 3.0 oz/yd2 ( ≤ 101.7 gm/m2) 20 lbs minimum

� > 3.0 - 4.0oz/yd2 ( > 101.7~135.6 gm/m2) 25 lbs minimum

� > 4.0 - 6.0oz/yd2 ( > 135.6~203.4 gm/m2) 30 lbs minimum

� >6.0 oz/yd2 ( > 203.4 gm/m2) 40 lbs minimum

Lining

� <3 oz/yd2 ( < 101.7 gm/m2) 15 lbs minimum

� ≥ 3oz/yd2 ( ≥ 101.7 gm/m2) 20 lbs minimum

Tear Strength Shell Fabric

� ≤ 3.0 oz/yd2 ( ≤ 101.7 gm/m2) � > 3.0-4.0oz/yd2 ( > 101.7~135.6gm/m2) � > 4.0-6.0oz/yd2 ( > 135.6~203.4 gm/m2) � >6.0 oz/yd2 ( > 203.4 gm/m2)

Lining � <3 oz/yd2 ( < 101.7 gm/m2) � ≥ 3oz/yd2 (≥ 101.7 gm/m2)

ASTM D1424

1.5 lbs minimum 2.0 lbs minimum 3.0 lbs minimum 4.0 lbs minimum

1.0 lbs minimum 1.5 lbs minimum

Stretch and Recovery (Bottoms Only with elastomeric/stretch fiber)

ASTM 3107 or ASTM D6614

Extension : 15% @ 4lbs. /2”Width Maximum Growth: 5% @ 30 min.



Apparel Fabric Testing – Woven (continued) PROTOCOL-001

Colorfastness to Actual Laundering After 1 HL, 3 HL as per care label All colors *Any Fabrications used for COLORBLOCK styles, must be submitted in colorblocked mock-up for test.

AATCC 135 modified

General Color Change: Grade 4.0 minimum, after 3 HL Self-Staining: Grade 4.5 minimum, after 3 HL Color Staining: Grade 3.0 minimum, after 1 HL Pigment Prints or Pigment Dyed Products Color Change: Grade 3.5 minimum Self-Staining: Grade 4.5 minimum Color Staining: Grade 3.0 minimum Modification = Adding Multifiber to Specimen Rate CC without UV suppressor Pass/Fail. For off white or pastel body fabric shades, rate with UV suppressor – report as Data only

Colorfastness to Dry-cleaning A/1 cycle – all colors AATCC 158 modified

Color Change: Grade 4.0 minimum Self-Staining: Grade 4.5 minimum Staining: Grade 3.0 minimum Modification = Scope is Expanded to Evaluate Color/Staining

Colorfastness to Crocking – all colors

(In case of failure, perform after 1 wash as per care label. Report as Data only)

AATCC 8 or AATCC 116

General Dry: Grade 4.0 minimum Wet: Grade 3.0 minimum Pigment Prints & Dyes /Black/Neon Dry: Grade 3.5 minimum Wet: Grade 2.5 minimum

Colorfastness to Chlorine and Non Chlorine Bleach – all colors

AATCC/ASTM TS-001 Color Change: Grade 4.0 minimum

Colorfastness to Perspiration – all colors lining fabrics for jackets, vests

AATCC 15 Color Change: Grade 4.0 minimum Self-Staining: Grade 4.5 minimum Color Staining: Grade 3.0 minimum

Vertical Wicking of Textiles - claim regarding absorbency or wicking

ARG-00004-MTHD-VERTICAL WICKING

8 cm A/20 minutes min. REPORT ACTUAL TOTAL DISTANCE IN CM

Drying Rate -claim regarding quick dry; ARG-00003-MTHD

DRYING RATE Before Wash: 70% min. After 5x cycles: rate as data only

Air Permeability – wind resistance claim; shell fabric only ASTM D737

Antimicrobial - Only if Claimed to have Antimicrobial Properties

AATCC TM 100-2004 > 50% Reduction

LEAD & PHTHALATES TESTING ARE REQUIRED ON ALL FABRICS AND/OR TRIMS CONTAINING PU, VINYL,

OTHER PLASTICIZED FINISHES (WHEN APPLICABLE). REFERENCE ACCESSORIES / FOOTWEAR TEST

PROTOCOL METHOD*



Apparel Fabric Testing – Knit PROTOCOL-002

Submit:A minimum of two (2) yards in one (1) colorway must be submitted for full package testing.One half (1/2) yard of each

additional color is to be submitted for additional colorway testing (as applicable).Submitted fabric must be representative of

finished bulk fabric that will be used in garment production. Note: Actual sample quantity required may be communicated separately by TESTING SERVICE PROVIDER if the samples submitted are not large enough to work with.

Evaluation Test Methods Requirements Flammability (General Wearing Apparel) non-exempt fabrics– all colors



Fiber content AATCC 20/20A

For blends, +/- 3% maximum For single fibers, +/- 0% tolerance

Weight– all colors ASTM D3776 +/- 5%

Dimensional Stability: Home Laundering (1x and 3x) – all colors

AATCC 135 modified

Basic Knits +/- 5% Modified = adding multi fiber test fabric

Rib / Novelty Knits +/- 6%

Dimensional Stability: Dry-cleaning (1x) – all colors

AATCC 158 or Professional Method

modified


Appearance Evaluation After Home Laundering/ Dry-cleaning– all colors

ARG-00002 -MTHD-APPEARANCE AFTER

CARE

Surface Appearances (refer to ARG-00002) for a complete

list of examples.

i.e. color change to print, loss of glitter, change in sheen =

3.5

i.e. frosting, pilling, fraying, embellishment falling off =

satisfactory

*Actual color change of the fabric color should be evaluated

via the separate test method, Colorfastness to Home

Laundering AATCC 135 Modified

Skewness in Fabric AATCC 179 Method 2,

Option 3 5% maximum

Bursting Strength ASTM D3786

≥ 4 oz: 50 psi < 4 oz: 30 psi Lace ≥ 4 oz: 30 psi < 4 oz: 20 psi

Pilling Resistance (Random Tumble) ASTM D3512 3.0 Minimum 30 minutes

Stretch Fabrics: Load, Elongation & Recovery

Fabrics with elastomeric content ≥ 5%, only.

Performed in direction of stretch, only

ASTM D2594-08e2 Elongation: Report data only

Recovery: 85% minimum





Apparel Fabric Testing – Knit (continued) PROTOCOL-002


AATCC 150 modified





General Dry: Grade 4.0 minimum Wet: Grade 3.0 minimum Pigment Prints & Dyes /Black/Neon Dry: Grade 3.5 minimum Wet: Grade 2.5 minimum

Colorfastness to Chlorine and Non Chlorine Bleach – all colors


Colorfastness to Perspiration – all colors lining fabrics for jackets, vests


Antimicrobial - Only if Claimed to have Antimicrobial Properties

AATCC TM 100-2004 > 50% Reduction

LEAD & PHTHALATES TESTING ARE REQUIRED ON ALL FABRICS AND/OR TRIMS CONTAINING PU, VINYL, OTHER PLASTICIZED FINISHES (WHEN APPLICABLE). REFERENCE ACCESSORIES / FOOTWEAR TEST PROTOCOL METHOD*



Apparel Garment Testing – Wovens PROTOCOL-003

Submit:two (2) garments for each style in one (1) colorway for full package garment testing. Each additional color is to be submitted for additional colorway testing. Note: Actual sample quantity required may be communicated separately by TESTING SERVICE PROVIDER if the samples submitted are not large enough to work with.

Evaluation Test Methods Requirements Fiber Content Assumes fiber content of fabric confirmed at fabric stage.

AATCC 20/20A

For blends, +/- 3% maximum. For single fibers, +/- 0% tolerance

Weight – all colors ONLY IF NOT TESTED IN FABRIC

ASTM D3776 +5%/- 5%

Dimensional Stability to Home Laundering (3x) – all colors

AATCC 150 modified

+/- 3% Spandex Blends: +/- 4% Rayon, CV Rayon Blends +/- 5% Modified = adding multi fiber test fabric

Dimensional Stability to Dry-cleaning (1x) – all colors

AATCC 158 or Professional Method modified


Appearance Evaluation After Home Laundering/ Dry-cleaning – all colors

ARG-00002-MTHD-APPEARANCE AFTER CARE


examples.


i.e. frosting, pilling, fraying, embellishment falling off =

satisfactory


Seam Strength/ Seam Slippage Shell

� ≤ 3.0 oz/yd2 ( <101.7 gm/m2) � > 3.0 - 4.0oz/yd2 ( > 101.7 ~ 135.6gm/m2) � > 4.0 - 6.0oz/yd2 ( > 135.6 ~ 203.4gm/m2) � >6.0 oz/yd2 ( > 203.4 gm/m2)

Lining � <3 oz/yd2 ( < 101.7 gm/m2) � ≥ 3oz/yd2 ( ≥ 101.7 gm/m2)

Strap Attachment

ASTM D1683

15 lbs min 20 lbs min 25 lbs min 30 lbs min 15 lbs min 20 lbs min 15 lbs min Functional 10 lbs min Lace

Water Resistance - rainwear duty garments, water resistance claim

AATCC 35 1 gm. Max. for 2 minute duration at 600 millimeters

Water Repellency: Spray Test - water repellent claims; applies to both shell & lining fabrics

AATCC 22 100 min

Colorfastness to Actual Laundering After 1 HL, 3 HL as per care label All colors

AATCC 150 modified




Apparel Garment Testing – Wovens (continued) PROTOCOL-003







General Dry: Grade 4.0 minimum Wet: Grade 3.0 minimum For Pigment Prints & Dyes/ Black/Neon Dry: Grade 3.5 minimum Wet: Grade 2.5 minimum

Colorfastness to Chlorine and Non-Chlorine Bleach – all colors


Zipper Marking Visual Assessment Approved trim supplier brand marking required Criteria - Pass/Fail

Flammability (General Wearing Apparel) Non-exempt Fabrics – perform only if not tested at fabric stage – all colors



Stretch and Recovery (Bottoms Only with elastomeric/stretch fiber) TEST ONLY IF NOT TESTED IN FABRIC STAGE



All New Material Label – filled, quilted, padded or

stuffed items only - maurices product only

Provincial Regulations of

Ontario, Manitoba, &

Quebec for Stuffed &

Upholstered Goods

Check for presence of all new material label containing registration

number

Visual assessment to confirm content. IF content cannot be

determined, chemical analysis is required



Apparel Garment Testing – Knits PROTOCOL-004

Submit:two (2) garments for each style in one (1) colorway for full package garment testing. Each additional color is to be submitted for additional colorway testing. Note: Actual sample quantity required may be communicated separately by TESTING SERVICE PROVIDER if the samples submitted are not large enough to work with.


AATCC 20/20A For blends, +/- 3% maximum For single fibers, +/- 0% tolerance

Weight – all colors ONLY IF NOT TESTED IN FABRIC

ASTM D3776 +5%/- 5%


AATCC 150 modified

Basic Knits +/-5% Modified = adding multi fiber test fabric

Rib / Novelty Knits +/- 6% Modified = adding multi fiber test fabric







examples.




Skewness in Fabric and Garment Twist AATCC 179 Method 2, Option 3 5% maximum

Strap Attachment ASTM D1683 15 lbs min Functional 10 lbs min Lace

Seam Stretchability of Knitted Garments AATCC/ASTM TS-015 15 lbs or 40% elongation minimum

Water Resistance - rainwear duty garments, water resistance claim

AATCC 35 1 gm. Max. for 2 minute duration at 600 millimeters

Water Repellency: Spray Test - water repellent claims; applies to both shell & lining fabrics

AATCC 22 100 min




Drying Rate -claim regarding quick dry 00003-MTHD DRYING RATE Before Wash: 70% min. After 5x cycles: rate as data only

Air Permeability – wind resistance claim; shell fabric only

ASTM D737 5.0 cfm max.


AATCC 150 modified




Apparel Garment Testing – Knits (continued) PROTOCOL-004




Pilling Resistance (Random Tumble) TEST ONLY IF NOT TESTED IN FABRIC STAGE

ASTM D3512 3.0 Minimum 30 minutes

Stretch Fabrics: Load, Elongation & Recovery

Fabrics with elastomeric content ≥ 5%, only.

Performed in direction of stretch, only.

TEST ONLY IF NOT TESTED IN FABRIC STAGE

ASTM D2594-08e2 Elongation: Report data only

Recovery: 85% minimum




General Dry: Grade 4.0 minimum Wet: Grade 3.0 minimum For Pigment Prints & Dyes /Black/Neon Dry: Grade 3.5 minimum Wet: Grade 2.5 minimum

Colorfastness to Chlorine & Non-Chlorine Bleach– all colors







stuffed items only – maurices product only


Ontario, Manitoba, & Quebec

for Stuffed & Upholstered

Goods


number





Apparel Fabric & Garment Testing – Intimate Apparel & Sleepwear PROTOCOL-005

Submit:two (2) garments for each style in one (1) colorway for full package garment testing. For intimates apparel submit (4) four garments for each style in one (1) colorway. Each additional color is to be submitted for additional colorway testing. Note: Actual sample quantity required may be communicated separately by TESTING SERVICE PROVIDER if the samples submitted are not large enough to work with.



Weight– all colors ASTM 3776 +/- 5%


AATCC 135 / 150 modified

Basic Knits +/-5% Rib / Novelty Knits +/- 6% Modified = adding multi fiber test fabric

Wovens +/- 3% Woven Spandex Blends / Rayon Blends: Spandex Blends: +/- 4% Rayon, CV Rayon Blends +/- 5% Modified = adding multi fiber test fabric







examples.






Seam Strength/Seam Slippage

• ≤ 3.0 oz/yd2 ( <101.7 gm/m2) • > 3.0 - 4.0oz/yd2

( > 101.7 ~ 135.6gm/m2) • > 4.0 - 6.0oz/yd2 ( > 135.6 ~ 203.4

gm/m2) • >6.0 oz/yd2 ( > 203.4 gm/m2)

ASTM D1683

15 lbs min 20 lbs min 25 lbs min 30 lbs min

Bursting Strength – Mullen Method ASTM D 3786

Fabric: 50 psi minimum Garment Seams: 30 psi minimum Lace: > 4 oz/sq yd: 30 psi minimum <= 4 oz/sq yd: 20 psi minimum

Pilling Resistance (Random Tumble) TEST ONLY IF NOT TESTED IN FABRIC STAGE

ASTM D3512 3.0 Minimum 30 minutes

Vertical Wicking of Textiles - claim regarding absorbency or wicking;



Drying Rate -claim regarding quick dry; ARG-00003-MTHD DRYING

RATE Before Wash: 70% min. After 5x cycles: rate as data only



Apparel Fabric & Garment Testing – Intimate Apparel & Sleepwear (continued)

PROTOCOL-005


AATCC 150 modified


Colorfastness to Dry-cleaning A/1 cycle – all colors

*Any Fabrications used for COLORBLOCK styles, must be submitted in colorblocked mock-up for test.

AATCC 158 modified


Colorfastness to Crocking – all colors AATCC 8 or AATCC 116

General Dry: Grade 4.0 minimum Wet: Grade 3.0 minimum For Pigment Prints & Dyes / Black/Neon Dry: Grade 3.5 minimum Wet: Grade 2.5 minimum



Colorfastness to Perspiration – all colors Intimate Apparel *Any Fabrications used for COLORBLOCK styles, must be submitted in colorblocked mock-up for test.


Colorfastness to Burnt Gas Fumes (White Bra Only)

AATCC23 Grade 4 minimum after 1 cycle

Flammability (General Wearing Apparel) non-exempt fabrics– all colors



Formaldehyde Content in Textile Intimate Apparel Only

JIS L1041 Only conduct if spot test shows positive or inconclusive result. All fabrics/trims that come into contact with skin shall not exceed 75 mg/kg (75 ppm).

Formaldehyde Spot Test on Textile Intimate Apparel Only

AATCC 94

Body Fabric/Fabric/Trim (including elastic, embroidery, ribbons, bows, applique, drawcord, patches, twill tape, etc.) shall be negative result. Not applied on synthetic fibers like polyester, nylon, PU, etc.; wet chem. analysis should be done.

pH Intimate Apparel Only

AATCC 81 White: 5.5 – 7.0 Others: 5.0 – 9.0

Hook & Eye Tension ARG-00001 No breakage, deformation, detachment, shifting or other damage after 30 lbs hold for 10 seconds. All hooks and eyes are required to meet requirements.

Bra Band Elongation ARG-00005 Minimum: Report as Data Maximum: Report as Data



Apparel Fabric & Garment Testing – Intimate Apparel & Sleepwear (continued)

PROTOCOL-005


Stretch & Fabrics: Load, Elongation, & Recovery Intimate Apparel Only (All Fabrics and Functional Elastics ) Test Before and After Aging

ASTM D2594 Test Before and After Aging

In stretch direction only:

Elastic Fiber Content Test In Original State and After aging 5 hours at 200° F

1 – 5%: Measure Growth after 60 minutes. Pass or fail based on growth.

Growth: maximum 7.0% Recovery: Minimum 85.0%

Above 5%, but less than 10%: Measure Growth and Recovery after 60 minutes. Report both growth and recovery. Pass or fail based on growth.

Growth: maximum 5.0% Recovery: Minimum 85.0%

Equal to or greater than 10%: Measure Recovery after 60 seconds and 60 minutes. Pass or fail based on recovery.

Recovery: Minimum 85.0%

Functional Elastic Trims (After aging 5 hours at 200° F)

ASTM D4964

In stretch direction only:

Elastic Fiber Content

1 – 5%: Measure Growth after 60 minutes. Pass or fail based on growth.

Growth: maximum 7.0%

Above 5%, but less than 10%: Measure Growth and Recovery after 60 minutes. Report both growth and recovery. Pass or fail based on growth.

Growth: maximum 5.0%

Equal to or greater than 10%: Measure Recovery after 60 seconds and 60 minutes. Pass or fail based on recovery.

Recovery: Minimum 85.0%






Goods


number





Apparel Fabric & Garment Testing – Swimwear & Swim Cover-up PROTOCOL-006

Submit:two (2) garments for each style in one (1) colorway for full package garment testing. For swimwear submit (4) four garments for each style in one (1) colorway. Each additional color is to be submitted for additional colorway testing. Note: Actual sample quantity required may be communicated separately by TESTING SERVICE PROVIDER if the samples submitted are not large enough to work with.



Weight– all colors ASTM 3776 +/- 5%



Basic Knits +/-5% Rib / Novelty Knits +/- 6% Modified = adding multi fiber test fabric



Wovens +/- 3% Woven Spandex Blends / Rayon Blends: +/- 4% Modified = adding multi fiber test fabric







examples.






Seam Strength/Seam Slippage

• ≤ 3.0 oz/yd2 ( <101.7 gm/m2) • > 3.0 - 4.0oz/yd2

( > 101.7 ~ 135.6gm/m2) • > 4.0 - 6.0oz/yd2 ( > 135.6 ~ 203.4

gm/m2) • >6.0 oz/yd2 ( > 203.4 gm/m2)

ASTM D1683

15 lbs min 20 lbs min 25 lbs min 30 lbs min

Vertical Wicking of Textiles - claim regarding absorbency or wicking;



Drying Rate -claim regarding quick dry; ARG-000003-MTHD DRYING

RATE Before Wash: 70% min. After 5x cycles: rate as data only



Apparel Fabric & Garment Testing – Swimwear & Swim Cover-up (continued)

PROTOCOL-006

LEAD & PHTHALATES TESTING IS REQUIRED ON DECORATIVE TRIM SOLD WITH PRODUCT (WHEN APPLICABLE). REFERENCE ACCESSORIES / FOOTWEAR TEST PROTOCOL METHOD*


AATCC 150 modified


Colorfastness to Dry-cleaning A/1 cycle – all colors

*Any Fabrications used for COLORBLOCK styles, must be submitted in colorblocked mock-up for test.

AATCC 158 modified


Colorfastness to Crocking – all colors AATCC 8 or AATCC 116

General Dry: Grade 4.0 minimum Wet: Grade 3.0 minimum For Pigment Prints & Dyes / Black/Neon Dry: Grade 3.5 minimum Wet: Grade 2.5 minimum

Colorfastness to Light – all colors AATCC 16 Option 3

20 AFU’s Grade 3.0 minimum Neon Colors: Grade 2.0 minimum



Colorfastness to Sea Water - swimwear, only– all colors *Any Fabrications used for COLORBLOCK styles, must be submitted in colorblocked mock-up for test.


Colorfastness to Chlorinated Pool Water- swimwear, only– all colors *Any Fabrications used for COLORBLOCK styles, must be submitted in colorblocked mock-up for test.

EN ISO 105 E03 50ml Solution

Color Change: Grade 3.5 minimum

Colorfastness to Chlorinated Pool Water- swim cover-ups only– all colors *Any Fabrications used for COLORBLOCK styles, must be submitted in colorblocked mock-up for test.

EN ISO 105 E03 20ml Solution

Color Change: Grade 3.5 minimum

Hook & Eye Tension ARG-00001 No breakage, deformation, detachment, shifting or other damage after 30 lbs hold for 10 seconds. All hooks and eyes are required to meet requirements.


Flammability (General Wearing Apparel) Non-exempt Fabrics – all colors








Goods


number





Apparel Garment Testing – Sweaters PROTOCOL-007

Submit:two (2) garments for each style in one (1) colorway along with one (1) additional garment or knit down panels

(three (3) pcs 24” x 24”) of additional color, stripe or pattern. Note: Actual sample quantity required may be communicated separately by TESTING SERVICE PROVIDER if the samples submitted are not large enough to work with.

Evaluation Test Methods Requirements


Weight– all colors Per dozen garments +/-5%

Dimensional Stability to Home Laundering– all colors

AATCC 150 modified





Appearance Evaluation After Home Laundering / Dry-cleaning – all colors

ARG-00002-MTHD-APPEARANCE AFTER

CARE


examples.





AATCC 150 modified







Dry: Grade 4.0 minimum Wet: Grade 3.0 minimum



Skewness in Fabric and Garment Twist AATCC 179 Method 2,

Option 3 5% maximum


Pilling Resistance (ICI Method – Sweaters)

IWS 152/ ISO 12945-1 Lambswool, Cashmere – Grade 3 A/2 hrs All Others – Grade 3 A/4 hrs.




Apparel Garment Testing – Sweaters(continued) PROTOCOL-007



Class I Must comply with Regulations






Upholstered Goods


number



Metallic Fiber Content

Duty Identification

(AATCC 20-2013/AATCC

20A-2013 MECHANICAL

SEPARATION METHOD)

Visual assessment to confirm metallic fiber content for duty

classification.

Metallic analysis should be done when: o The yarn in question is pre‐twisted with an “S” or “Z” twist o The garment contains multiple yarns, some of which are not twisted with metallic Metallic analysis should not be done when: o The yarn is not pre‐twisted, including yarns plated or marled with

metallic o The pre‐twisted metallic yarn only represents a section of the

garment and not the chief weight yarn, i.e. a thin metallic stripe or a patch of the garment

Test report should include the following: o Number of resultant yarns o Fiber content of each piled yarn in resultant yarn o The number of piles in each piled yarn (should include pre‐twisted designation if applicable) o The relative weight by percentage of each of the yarns that comprise the fiber o Fiber content for FTC labeling and US Customs




Apparel Fabric & Garment Testing – Denim PROTOCOL-008

Submit:two (2) garments for each style in one (1) colorway and one (1) garment in each additional colorway. Note: Actual sample quantity required may be communicated separately by TESTING SERVICE PROVIDER if the samples submitted are not large enough to work with.



Weight – all colors ASTM 3776 +/- 5%

Dimensional Stability to Home Laundering– all finishes/colors

Fabric: AATCC 135 Garment: AATCC 150

modified


Appearance Evaluation After Home Laundering – all finishes/colors


CARE


examples.




Skewness in Fabric and Garment Twist AATCC 179 Method 2,

Option 3 5% maximum

Tensile Strength � < 6.0oz/yd2 ( < 203.4 gm/m2) � ≥ 6.0 - <8.0 oz/yd2 (≥203.4 ~ < 271.2 gm/m2) � ≥ 8.0 - <10.0 oz/yd2 (≥271.2 ~ < 339.1 gm/m2) � ≥ 10.0 oz/yd2 (≥ 339.1 gm/m2)

ASTM D5034

65 x 40 lbs min 65 x 50 lbs min 70 x 55 lbs min 75 x 65 lbs min

Tear Strength � < 6.0oz/yd2 (<203.4 gm/m2) � ≥ 6.0 - < 8.0 oz/yd2 (≥203.4 ~ < 271.2 gm/m2) � ≥ 8.0 - < 10.0 oz/yd2 (≥271.2 ~ < 339.1

gm/m2) � ≥ 10.0 oz/yd2 (≥ 339.1 gm/m2)

ASTM D1424 ASTM D2261

3.5 x 3.0 lbs min 3.5 x 3.0 lbs min 4.0 x 3.5 lbs min 4.5 x 4.0 lbs min

Seam Strength � < 6.0oz/yd2 ( < 203.4 gm/m2) � ≥6.0 oz/yd2 (≥203.4 gm/m2)

ASTM D1683

<6.0 oz/yd2

Seams – 20 lbs min Felled Seams – 25 lbs min ≥ 6.0 oz/yd2 Seams – 30 lbs min Felled Seams – 30 lbs min Reinforced and Bartack seams: -20 lbs minimum

pH - washed garments only (all colors) AATCC 81 All Colors: 5 – 8


AATCC 135 /AATCC 150 modified




Apparel Fabric & Garment Testing – Denim (continued) PROTOCOL-008

Colorfastness to Crocking – all colors (In case of failure, perform after 1 wash as per care label. Report as Data only)


Dark wash: Indigo, over-dyed, black Dry: Grade 3.5 minimum Wet: Grade 2.0 minimum All other Denim washes: Dry: Grade 3.5 minimum Wet: Grade 2.5 minimum



Formaldehyde Content in Textile

JIS L1041 All fabrics/trims that come into contact with skin shall not exceed 75 mg/kg (75 ppm).


Stretch and Recovery (Bottoms Only with elastomeric/stretch fiber)



Flammability (General Wearing Apparel) Non-exempt Fabrics – perform only if not tested at fabric stage (all colors)








Upholstered Goods


number






Apparel Leather and Suede – Skins & Garment PROTOCOL-009


Submit:two (2) garments for each style in one (1) colorway along with two (2) 10” x 10” samples of leather/suede in each additional colorway. Note: Actual sample quantity required may be communicated separately by TESTING SERVICE PROVIDER if the samples submitted are not large enough to work with.

Evaluation Test Methods Requirements Weight ASTM 3776 +/- 5%

Fiber Content- as applicable for linings. AATCC 20/20A For blends, +/- 3% maximum. For single fibers, +/- 0% tolerance

Dimensional Stability to Professional Leather Cleaning (1x)– all colors

Professional Leather Cleaning Method

Length/ Width: Growth: + 2% Shrinkage: - 2% x - 2%

Appearance Evaluation After Professional Leather Cleaning – all colors

ARG-00002 MTHD-APPEARANCE AFTER

CARE


examples.





Flammability (General Wearing Apparel) Non-exempt fabrics only – all colors



Seam Strength/ Seam Slippage (Woven Garments) Shell

ASTM D1683

30 lbs min

Lining

� <3.0 oz/yd2 (<101.7 gm/m2) 15 lbs min

� >3.0oz/yd2 (> 101.7 gm/m2) 20 lbs min

Colorfastness to Crocking AATCC 8/AATCC 116 Shell Dry: 3.0 Wet: 2.0

Lining Dry: 4.0 Wet: 3.0

Colorfastness to Light – Shell only AATCC 16 Option 3 20

AFU’s CC: 3.0

Colorfastness to Perspiration – Linings only AATCC 15 CC: 4.0 CS: 3.0

Documentation review for Species Identification






Upholstered Goods


number





Accessories – Socks, Tights, Legwarmers, Armwarmers PROTOCOL-010 Submit: a minimum of six (6) pair socks or four (4) pair tights. All colorways must be represented. Note: Actual sample quantity required may be communicated separately by TESTING SERVICE PROVIDER if the samples submitted are not large enough to work with.


Fiber Content AATCC 20/20A For blends, +/- 3% maximum

For single fibers, +/- 0% tolerance

Dimensional Stability to Home Laundering – all colors

AATCC 150 modified

Length/ Width: +/- 5%

Modified = adding multi fiber test fabric

Appearance Evaluation After Home Laundering –all colors


CARE


examples.



*Actual color change of the fabric color should be evaluated via the separate test method, Colorfastness to Home Laundering AATCC 135

Modified

Flammability (General Wearing Apparel) of Non-Exempt Fabrics – all colors




ARG-00004-MTHD VERTICAL WICKING


Colorfastness to Crocking AATCC 8/AATCC 116 Dry: 4.0 Wet: 3.0



All New Material Label – filled, quilted, padded

or stuffed items only – maurices product

only




Upholstered Goods


number






Accessories - Fashion Scarves, Hats, Gloves, Cold Weather Scarves PROTOCOL-011

Submit: three (3) items in one (1) colorway. If flammability and/or lead testing is required send one (1) item each

additional colorway. Note: Actual sample quantity required may be communicated separately by TESTING SERVICE PROVIDER if the samples submitted are not large enough to work with.


Fiber Content AATCC 20/20A

For blends, +/- 3% maximum. Report fiber content as percentage of whole for knit hats, gloves. For single fibers, +/- 0% tolerance

Dimensional Stability to Home Laundering – one color adequate

AATCC 150 modifed

Scarves: +/- 6% All Other Products: +/- 5% Modified = adding multi fiber test fabric

Appearance Evaluation After Home Laundering ARG-00002-MTHD-

APPEARANCE AFTER CARE


examples.





AATCC 150 modified


Colorfastness to Crocking – all colors AATCC 8/AATCC 116 Dry: 4.0 Wet: 3.0

Colorfastness to Perspiration – all colors Only test if CF to Wet Crocking Fails




Flammability (General Wearing Apparel) of Non-Exempt Fabrics for scarves, only – all colors



All New Material Label – filled, quilted, padded or stuffed items only – maurices product only

Provincial Regulations of Ontario, Manitoba, & Quebec for Stuffed & Upholstered Goods


number






Accessories - Belts, Back Pack, Soft-Sided Tote, Handbag, Wallet, Clutches, Coin Purse, Travel Bags PROTOCOL-012 Submit: Belt Testing: Send minimum of six (6) bulk production units if surface coating/printing is present.

Back Pack/Handbags/Totes/Wallets/Clutches etc: Submit six – ten (6-10), depending on size and/or amount of surface coating. If no coating is present, send three (3) bulk production units. Include all colorways. Note: Actual sample quantity required may be communicated separately by TESTING SERVICE PROVIDER if the samples submitted are not large enough to work with.

Evaluation Test Methods Requirements Total Lead Content

CPSC-CH-E1001-08.1

CPSC-CH-E1002-08.1

CPSC-CH-E1003-09.1

Products shall comply with the following requirements, as applicable: 1. All accessible components in wallets, purses, handbags, clutches and totes, footwear and belts shall comply with the following limits (a),(b),(c) and (d): a. Paints and surface coatings shall not exceed 90 ppm (0.009%) total lead content. b. PVC components/vinyl/faux leather accessible to the consumer touch, shall not exceed 200 ppm (0.020%) total lead content. c. Leather components shall not exceed 300 ppm (0.030%) total lead content. Materials or components other than (a)-(c) shall not exceed 300 ppm (0.030%) total lead content. Compositing of up to 3 colors/ materials is acceptable for Lead in Substrates (including metals) and Lead in Surface Coatings.

Requirement (1) is not applicable to glass, ceramic and crystal such as cubic zirconia (CZ), glass or rhinestones – Legal Counsel to be consulted. Materials understood to be exempt for Prop 65 but not for products under CPSIA.

Phthalates Content

CA Proposition 65

(CGC-10-497729 &

CGC-10-498981)

CPSC-CH-C1001.09.3

Product shall not contain more than 0.1% (1000 ppm) of each of DEHP, BBP and DBP in the following materials: PVC, soft plastic, vinyl, and synthetic leather substrates, decals and attachments are included.

Applicable to all accessible components in the as received state. Compositing of up to 3 materials is allowed.

Belts Colorfastness to Crocking (Face and Back) All other Items Face Only

AATCC 8/ AATCC 116

Belts: Dry: 3.5 All other Items: Dry: 3.5 Wet: 2.5

Strap Attachment Items with straps only

ASTM D5034

25 lbs minimum

All New Material Label – filled,

quilted, padded or stuffed items

only – maurices product only

Provincial Regulations

of Ontario, Manitoba, &


Upholstered Goods

Check for presence of all new material label containing registration number

Visual assessment to confirm content. IF content cannot be determined, chemical

analysis is required



Footwear PROTOCOL-013 Submit: three – six (3-6) pairs. Note: Actual sample quantity required may be communicated separately by TESTING SERVICE PROVIDER if the samples submitted are not large enough to work with.


Colorfastness to Crocking –


General Upper & Lining (Dark colors only) Dry: Grade 3.5 Wet: Grade 2.5 Slippers Dry: Grade 3.5 minimum Wet: Grade 2.5 minimum Suede & Leather Dry: Grade 3.0 Wet: Grade 2.0

Total Lead Content

CPSC-CH-E1001-08.1

CPSC-CH-E1002-08.1

CPSC-CH-E1003-09.1

Products shall comply with the following requirements, as applicable: 1. All accessible components in wallets, purses, handbags, clutches and totes, footwear and belts shall comply with the following limits (a),(b),(c) and (d): a. Paints and surface coatings shall not exceed 90 ppm (0.009%) total lead content. b. PVC components/vinyl/faux leather accessible to the consumer touch, shall not exceed 200 ppm (0.020%) total lead content. c. Leather components shall not exceed 300 ppm (0.030%) total lead content. Materials or components other than (a)-(c) shall not exceed 300 ppm (0.030%) total lead content. Compositing of up to 3 colors/ materials is acceptable for Lead in Substrates (including metals) and Lead in Surface Coatings.

Requirement (1) is not applicable to glass, ceramic and crystal such as cubic zirconia (CZ), glass or rhinestones – Legal Counsel to be consulted. Materials understood to be exempt for Prop 65 but not for products under CPSIA.

Phthalates Content

CA Proposition 65

(CGC-10-497729 &

CGC-10-498981)

CPSC-CH-C1001.09.3

Product shall not contain more than 0.1% (1000 ppm) of each of DEHP, BBP,DBP and DnHP in the following materials: PVC, soft plastic, vinyl, and synthetic leather substrates, decals and attachments are included. Applicable to all accessible components in the as received state. Compositing of up to 3 materials is allowed.

Heel Attachment Strength ASTM F2232 150 lb

Heel Impact Test Heels 2” or higher

BS5131-4.9 No Cracking @ 20,000 cycles

Toplifts – Heel Strength BS5131-5.9 25 lbs

Flex Cracking Resistance EN 17707 Outsole No Cracking @ 50,000 cycles

Sole Bond Peeling BS5131-5.4

Glued On 3.0 N/mm Flex Sole 2.0 N/mm

Strap / Buckle Attachment BS5131-5.11 44 lbs

Ornament Attachment BS5131-5.11 15 lbs / 10 sec.



Footwear (continued) PROTOCOL-013

Slip Resistance ASTM F609

Unscuffed 0.4 Static/0.3 Kinetic Scuffed 0.5 Static /0.4 Kinetic Note: Perform Scuffing when original fails. Report results of both.

Strap Pull Out BS5131-5.11

Rubber Lateral Pull 14lbs Vertical Pull 16lbs Thong 55 lbs Heel Quarter 44 lbs Harachi 22 lbs Strappy Sandal 44 lbs

Seam Strength - slippers only ASTM D1683 25lbs min

All New Material Label – filled,

quilted, padded or stuffed items

only – slippers –

maurices product only

Provincial Regulations

of Ontario, Manitoba, &


Upholstered Goods


Visual assessment to confirm content. IF content cannot be determined, chemical

analysis is required



Zippers PROTOCOL-014 Evaluation Test Methods Requirements

Construction Quality General Assessment Open-end zipper must have safety stop Zipper slide must be of locking type Zipper

functions with ease

Sharp Points / Sharp Edges CPSC 16 CFR 1500.48-

49

No sharp points or sharp edges allowed

Zipper Strength Testing ASTM D2061 Use below chart for requirements and reference depending on zipper type

Lead Content in Surface Coating .

Scrapeable in each color

CPSC-CH-E1003-09.1 .90 ppm (0.009% Total Weight) Composite Testing Permitted

Total Lead in Substrate Material CPSC-CH-E1002-08.3 /

CPSC-CH-E1001-08.3

.100 ppm (0.01% Total Weight) Composite Testing Permitted

Phthalates in each plasticized part

/ material such as PVC, Vinyl, etc.

CPSC-CH-C1001.09.3 .1000 ppm (0.1%)

Zipper Strength Test ASTM D2061

Specification Number & Requirements 1-2 3-4 5-7 (A) 5-7 (B) 8-9 10

Closed Chain Width (inch) 0.125-0.180 0.125-0.180

0.181-

0.310

0.181-

0.310

0.311-

0.390

0.320-

0.500

Tape Width (inch) 7/16-9/16 7/16-9/16 9/16-3/4 9/16-3/4 5/8-3/4 3/4-1.0

Chain Crosswise Strength (lbf, min) ASTM D2061;

14.1

Brass / Nickel 66 121 110.3 143 143 165

Aluminum 53 77 77 88 88 110

Plastic 59 59 77 77 110 132

Coiled 66 77 132 154 176 220

Separating Unit Crosswise Strength (lbf, min)

ASTM D2061; 30.3

Brass / Nickel 15.4 19.8 22 33 33 48.4

Aluminum 15.4 19.8 26.4 33 33 48.4

Plastic 15.4 19.8 24 26.4 37 48.4

Coiled 15.4 13.2 26.4 33 33 48.4

Single Element Strength (lbs. min) ASTM D2061;

14.2

Brass / Nickel 6.6 12 13.2 17.6 18.7 24.2

Aluminum 5.3 7.7 11 11 12 16.5

Plastic 5.5 5.5 10 10 17.6 19.8

Single Element Slippage (lbs., min.) ASTM D2061;

14.3

Brass / Nickel 5.3 9 9.9 9.9 13.2 18.7

Aluminum 5.3 6 6.2 9.9 12.1 16.5

Plastic 5.3 7.7 11 11 15.4 22



Zippers (continued) PROTOCOL-014

Specification Number & Requirements 1-2 3-4 5-7 (A) 5-7 (B) 8-9 10

Closed Chain Width (inch) 0.125-0.180

0.125-

0.180

0.181-

0.310

0.181-

0.310

0.311-

0.390

0.320-

0.500

Tape Width (inch) 7/16-9/16

7/16-

9/16 9/16-3/4 9/16-3/4 5/8-3/4 3/4-1.0

Slider Lock Hold (lbf, min) ASTM D2061; 87.1

Brass / Nickel 8.4 13.2 13.2 13.2 15.4 15.4

Aluminum 8.4 8.8 13.2 13.2 15.4 15.4

Plastic 5.5 4 7.7 13.2 13.2 15.4

Coiled 4.4 4.4 11 13.2 15.4 15.4

Tab Pull-Off Strength (lbs., min) ASTM D2061;

68.1

Brass / Nickel 22 22 39.6 44 55 66

Aluminum 22 22 39.6 44 55 66

Plastic 22 22 39.6 39.6 44 66

Coiled 17.6 17.6 39.6 44 55 66

Tab Twist-Off Strength (in-lb, min) ASTM D2061;

52.1

Brass / Nickel 4 4 4 4 4 4

Aluminum 4 4 4 4 4 4

Plastic 4 4 4 4 4 4

Coiled 4 4 4 4 4 4

Operability (Open/Close) (lbf, max) ASTM D2062;

16

Brass / Nickel 0.7 0.8 1.1 1.5 1.8 1.8

Aluminum 0.7 0.8 1.1 1.5 1.8 1.8

Plastic 1.1 1.1 1.5 1.5 1.6 1.9

Coiled 1.1 0.9 1.5 1.5 1.6 1.9

Top Stop Strength (lbf, min) ASTM D2061; 22.2

Brass / Nickel 15.4 17.6 22 28.6 33 35

Aluminum 15.4 17.6 22 22 33 35

Plastic 17.6 17.6 22 26.4 33 35

Coiled 15.4 17.6 26.4 28.6 28 35

Bottom Stop Strength (lbf, min) ASTM D2061; 22.5

Brass / Nickel 11 17.6 17.6 22 26.5 33

Aluminum 10 13 19.8 15.4 26.5 33

Plastic 11 11 19.8 22 30 37

Coiled 6.6 11 20 22 30 39.6



Bath, Body, and Cosmetics PROTOCOL-015 Evaluation Test Methods Requirements

Scope: This protocol covers nail polish, fake fingernails, fragrance, lotion, bath gel, make up, hair color, hair spray.

Submit: Approximately 9 - 12 finished products depending on size or amount necessary to proceed with full testing of each component separately. Note: Actual sample quantity required may be communicated separately by TESTING SERVICE PROVIDER if the samples submitted are not large enough to work with.

NOTE: In addition to the below testing, all vendors are responsible for meeting FDA requirements outlined in the Food, Drug &

Cosmetic Act (US) and the Health Canada requirements outlined in the Food and Drug Act (Canada).

LABELING

Cosmetic Ingredients and Labeling Review

FDA 21 CFR 701 &

740 Cosmetic Labeling

and FDA 21 CFR 700

and 73, 74 & 82 / US

FDA, Food Drug &

Cosmetics Regulations

(21 CFR 73, 74, 81,

82, 250, & 700 to

740) / Health Canada

Guidelines - Labeling

of Cosmetics

All colorants and ingredients of cosmetic products must comply with U.S.

Food and Drug Administration, Food Drug and Cosmetic Regulations.

Ingredients must be listed on all product using recognized names from the

International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients (INCI) system as found

in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook and in

accordance to the Cosmetic Ingredient Hotlist

Country of Origin Marking

Marking of Imported

Goods Memo D11-3-1

/ Country of Origin /

19 CFR 134.11 /

Marking of imported

goods order, C.R.C.,

c. 535 / Canada

Customs Tariff,

Marking of Imported

Goods Regulations,

SOR-94-10

Must Comply with Regulations. Rate as Data.






Upholstered Goods


Visual assessment to confirm content. IF content cannot be determined,

chemical analysis is required



Bath, Body, and Cosmetics (continued) PROTOCOL-015


Analytical

Mercury

21 CFR 700.13 /

Cosmetic Regulations C.R.C., c. 869

Less than 1ppm mercury in cosmetics intended for use in any area other than around the eye or less than 65ppm mercury for cosmetics intended for use only in the area of the eye.

In lieu of testing, documentation may be submitted if

dated within 1 year.

Total Heavy Metal Contents in Cosmetics

Canada Guidance on Heavy Metal

Impurities in Cosmetics

/ NHPD Compendium of

Monographs

Cosmetic products shall not have total heavy metal contents exceed the following limits:

Lead ≤ 10 ppm Arsenic ≤ 3 ppm

Cadmium ≤ 3 ppm Mercury ≤ 3 ppm

Antimony ≤ 3 ppm

Total Lead Content in Cosmetics and

Cosmetic Accessories

Alameda Superior Court, 01-032306, RG

07321854 and H217587 / EPA 3051A (modified) /

EPA 3050B (modified)

[Cosmetic and Cosmetic Accessories] All adult cosmetic and cosmetic accessories shall not exceed the following limit: a. Lip/mouth cosmetics shall not exceed 0.35 ppm total lead content. b. All other cosmetic items shall not exceed 0.5 ppm total lead content. Note: - Applicable to cosmetics, including but not limited to lipstick/liner/gloss, eye shadow/liner, facial powders, blush, mascara, pencils, make up creams/gels, foundation and nail polish. - Applicable to accessories, including but not limited to cosmetic brushes, blusher tools, applicators and mirrors. - Excluding products under the FDA definition, including but not limited to lotion, body wash, body tattoo, adhesive fake eyelash and eyelash glue.

Total Lead Content in Surface Coatings AOAC 974.01

(modified)

All accessible surface coatings in the as received state on the

item outside of the scope of CCPSA shall not contain lead or lead

components in which the lead content is in excess of 0.009%

(90ppm) of the weight of the total content.

Report actual results or include data table within report.

Component testing is allowed.

Composite up to 3 colors are allowed.

BBP/DBP/DEHP Content (applies to cosmetic

cases / bags)

CA Proposition 65

Cosmetic

Cases/Bags:

(CGC-10-497729 &

CGC-10-498981)

Accessible soft plastics, in the as received state, shall not contain

concentrations of more than 1000mg/kg (ppm) BBP, DBP or DEHP

individually.

Phthalates in temporary tattoos

Santa Clara Superior

Court 1-12-CV-

230462/Solvent

extraction, GC-MS LC-MS

analysis / CPSD-AN-

00108- MTTHD

Temporary Body Tattoos: Product shall not contain more than

0.1% (1000 ppm) of each DEHP, BBP and DBP. Labeling is not

allowed by the Consent Judgment. Reformulation of product is

required.

Note: Actual testing would be conducted on all accessible plastic

materials of the tattoo. Vendor is responsible for compliance of all

other materials.

USP 51 Preservative Effectiveness - doc

review USP <51>

Shall meet requirements per product type.





Bath, Body, and Cosmetics (continued) PROTOCOL-015

USP 61 (Harmonized) - doc review USP <61> / PCPC

[CTFA (PCPC) Items]




USP 62 (Harmonized) - doc review USP <62> / PCPC

[CTFA (PCPC) Items]






Candles and Candle Holders PROTOCOL-016

Submit: approximately 4 finished products depending on size or amount necessary to proceed with full testing of each component separately. Note: actual sample quantity required may be communicated separately by TESTING SERVICE PROVIDER if the samples submitted are not large

enough to work with.


Candle - FPLA 16 CFR 501.7 The candles must be labeled with count and length or height in

inches to meet the requirements of FPLA.

Consumer Chemicals and Containers

Regulations SOR/2001-269

The manufacturer or importer must provide completed CCCR

Submission Requirements Form certifying compliance or non-

applicability with these requirements.

If document is not obtained after one business day and one email

attempt the submitted sample will be sent for outsource testing

with CAS and ingredient list for intended liquid.

Reject if no Form or incomplete Form is received.

Country of Origin

19 CFR 134.11

Canada Customs Tariff,

Marking of Imported

Goods Regulations,

SOR-94-10

Marking of Imported

Goods Memorandum

D11-3-1

Must Comply with Regulations

Labeling Review

Visual Assessment /

ASTM F2058

section 6.3 (modified)

/ ASTM F2601 section

5.4.3.1 (3) / Canadian

proposed candle

regulation section 3

Use/Care instructions and/or Warning/Cautionary labeling that are

clear and understandable shall be provided in English.

UPLR / FPLA / Consumer Packing and

Labeling Act and Regulations

NIST handbook 130 part

IV A Section 3, 5 & 6

16 CFR 500.4 /

16 CFR 500.5 /

16 CFR 500/ Consumer

Packing and Labeling Act

and Regulations

C.R.C.,c.417 section 6

Must Comply with Regulations

Flammability / Safety

Candle Holder – Flammability Test

Flame impingement shall be 5 minutes. Shall not crack or break

exposing a sharp point / edge or expose flame to the outside of

the holder. Shall not ignite or create hazardous conditions. Holder

damage (Non-hazardous) is acceptable.

Flammability of Solids

16 CFR 1500.3 (c) (6)

(vi) / 16 CFR 1500.44

(modified)

Shall not exceed the maximum allowable limit of no greater than

0.1 inches per second. All surfaces of each different material on

candleholders shall be tested for flammability of solids.

Modification = Test all surface of each material rather than test on

major axis only

Safety Requirements for Stability ASTM F2601-12

section 4.4 Shall not tip over when placed on a minimum 10 degree incline.



Candles and Candle Holders (continued) PROTOCOL-016

Analytical

Lead Content in Glass and/or Metal Tea Light

Votives, Candle Holders and Home Decorative

Products

Alameda Superior

Court, HG-04-183355

/ NIOSH method

9100 (modified) / EPA

3050B (modified)

[Glass and / or Metal Decorative Mug, Tea Light Votives, Candle Holders and Home Decorative Products]

Product made with glass and metal shall comply the following

requirements:

Must meet (a) & (c), or (b) & (c).

a. The metal portions shall produce no more than 5.0 micrograms of lead, in Ghost WipeTM test,

or b. Each metal (such as solder and came) shall not exceed 0.1%

(1000 ppm) total lead content, and

c. If product has exterior decorations or markings, shall have no more than 5.0 micrograms of lead, using a Ghost WipeTM test

applied to all colored decorated exterior surface and metal portions.

Products exceed either the limits shall utilize a warning statement.

Please reference to image appendix for labeling requirement and

the warning statement.

Note:

- Applicable to products that are primarily made of glass and / or metal. It does not include wooden picture frame.

- Decorations include color on top of the base material.

Lead in Metal Wick - Metal-Cored Wicks 16 CFR

1500.17(a)(13)

The outer container or wrapper of candles with metal-cored wicks

(Manufactured or imported on or after Oct. 15, 2003) must be

labeled “Conforms to 16 CFR 1500.17(a)(13).”

Total Lead Content in Candle

Orange Superior

Court, 799222 / EPA

3050B (modified)

No lead core wick is allowed.

Total Lead Content in Surface Coatings AOAC 974.02

(modified)

All accessible surface coatings in the as received state shall not contain lead or lead components in which the lead content is in

excess of 0.009% (90ppm) of the weight of the total content.


Component testing is allowed.

Compositing up to 3 like materials is allowed.

Toxicological Risk Assessment - doc review

Canada Consumer

Product Safety Act

(CCPSA) / Canada

Consumer Chemicals

and Containers

Regulations

(SOR/2001-269) Part

1 and 2

Product shall be evaluated for the potential to be an acute toxic, a

skin irritant, eye irritant or corrosive. Labeling review is not

included.

Toxicity Risk Assessment shall be conducted for the following

components:

All liquids, pastes, putties, gels and powders regardless of claim

Other materials bearing a "NON-TOXIC" claim on samples and/or

its packaging

In lieu of testing, test report can be submitted if dated

within 5 years.



Eyewear PROTOCOL-017 Evaluation Test Methods Requirements

Submit: Approximately 3 finished products depending on size or amount necessary to proceed with full testing of each component separately.

Note: actual sample quantity required may be communicated separately by TESTING SERVICE PROVIDER if the samples submitted are not

large enough to work with.

LABELING

Labeling –

Spectacles Visual assessment

Report intended use or performance claims on product and/or packaging as data only.

Example:

"...lenses block [X]%UVB and [Y]%UVA."

Rate as data

PERFORMANCE

* ANSI Z80.3

Luminous

Transmittance – doc

ANSI Z80.3

[Required for eyewear with UV claim, only.]

Shall comply with luminous transmittance properties and traffic signal recognition

requirements for non-prescription sunglasses and fashion eyewear as specified based on

intended primary function: general purpose, cosmetic use, and special purpose (skiing,

climbing, beach, etc). It is the vendor’s responsibility for the conformity of this

requirement.

Report as DATA.

*Transmittance

properties for

sunglasses and

eyewear

ANSI Z80.3-2010 clause 4.6.1

to 4.6.3, 4.6.5, 4.7.3 to 4.7.4

and 4.8

Non-prescription sunglasses and fashion eyewear shall comply with the requirements.

*Impact resistance 21 CFR 801.410 / ANSI Z80.3-

2010 Section 4.2

5/8-inch (0.56 ounce) steel ball weighing is dropped from a height of 50 inches upon the

horizontal upper surface of the lens.

Lens shall not fracture, crack or release any material.

In lieu of testing, test report can be submitted – must be current within one

year.

Phthalates Content

CA Proposition 65

(CGC-10-497729 & CGC-10-

498981)

CPSC-CH-C1001.09.3

Product shall not contain more than 0.1% (1000 ppm) of each of DEHP, BBP and DBP in

the following materials:

PVC, soft plastic, vinyl, and synthetic leather substrates, decals and attachments are

included.

Applicable to all accessible components in the as received state.

Compositing of up to 3 materials is allowed.



Eyewear (continued) PROTOCOL-017

*Total lead content

in substrate

materials

Consumer Product Safety

Improvement Act of 2008 /

CPSC-CH-E1001-08 / CPSC-

CH-E1002-08

Cite 16 CFR 1500. - 1501

All accessible substrates, before and after use and abuse testing, shall not contain lead in

excess of 0.01% (100ppm) of the weight of the total content.

• Component testing is not allowed. (Only finished product is allowed). • Compositing is not allowed

*Total lead content

in surface coatings

Consumer Product Safety

Improvement Act of 2008 / 16

CFR 1303 / AOAC 974.01

(modified) / CPSC-CH-E1003-

09

Cite 16 CFR 1500. - 1501

All accessible surface coatings, before and after use and abuse testing, shall not

contain lead or lead components in which the lead content is in excess of 0.009%

(90ppm) of the weight of the total content.

• Component testing is not allowed. (Only finished product is allowed). • Composite testing is only allowed if there is still not enough to complete testing on

individual colors, compositing is allowed for up to 3 colors. Based on CPSC SOP, will composite up to 3 colors. If any color in the composite exceeds

80% of the limit (72 ppm), based on the lowest weight component, individual colors will

be analyzed.



Jewelry & Hair Accessories PROTOCOL-018

Scope: this protocol addresses jewelry, watches, hair accessories, key chains and charms and similar products.

Submit: approximately 15 – 20 finished products depending on size or amount necessary to proceed with full testing. The number of

samples that are required for testing varies. Note: The following is a general guideline. For more precise guidance, contact the lab prior to

submitting samples.


Analytical

Nickel Spot Test

(Nickel in Metal Materials analytical testing is

required if Nickel Spot Test method result is

Inconclusive or Failed)

• Required on all maurices jewelry

product

PD CR 12471:2002

No detection - negative test result

Note: Applies to Sensitive Skin Claims Only.

Items covered include: components of earrings, necklaces, bracelets, chains, anklets, finger rings,wrist-watch cases, watch

straps and tighteners.

Nickel in Metal Materials EN 1811:2011 / EN

12472:2005+A1:2009

a. Post assemblies for jewelry which are inserted into pierced ears and other pierced parts of the human body shall not exceed 0.11

µg/cm2/week.

b. All other jewelry intended to come into direct and prolonged contact with the skin shall not exceed 0.28 µg/cm2/week.

Note: Applies to Sensitive Skin Claims Only.

Items covered include: components of earrings, necklaces, bracelets, chains, anklets, finger rings,wrist-watch cases, watch

straps and tighteners.


Total Lead Content in Body Piercing Jewelry

California Law, Health

and Safety Codes

section 25214.1-

25214.4.2 / EPA

3050B (modified) /

EPA 3051A (modified)

/ EPA 3052 (modified)

Product shall be made of one of the following materials.

Recommend all products shall provide documentation or material bill for material identification.

a. Surgical implant stainless steel

b. Surgical implant grades of titanium c. Niobium (Nb)

d. Solid 14 karat or higher white or yellow nickel-free gold e. Solid platinum

f. Dense low porosity plastic (e.g., Tygon or PTFE) with no intentionally added (less than 200 ppm) lead

Products must comply with the material and lead requirements.

Note: - Accessible materials should be tested.

- For component test together with CPSIA, composite metals and

up to 3 like materials is allowed, transfer the CPSIA result here for

compliance.

Total cadmium content

Alameda Superior

Court, RG-10-

514803/California

Law, Health and

Safety Codes section

25214.1-

25214.4.2/EPA 3050B

modified / EPA 3051A

modified / EPA3052

modified / CPSD-AN-

00108-MTHD

Product shall not exceed 75 ppm (0.0075%) total cadmium content.

Note: -Accessible materials should be tested.

-Actual testing will be conducted on all substrates, plasticizer print and scrapable surface coatings.

-Composite testing of metals and up to 3 components -Textile & natural material are exempt from testing.




Jewelry & Hair Accessories (continued) PROTOCOL-018

Total Lead Content in Jewelry

Alameda Superior

Court, RG 10-545680

and RG 10-545687 /

EPA 3050B (modified)

/ EPA 3051A

(modified) / EPA 3052

(modified)

Components shall comply with the following limits (a) and (b):

a. Paints and surface coatings shall not exceed 90 ppm (0.009%)

total lead content.

b. Substrates shall not exceed 200 ppm (0.020%) total lead

content.

Recommend all products shall provide documentation or material

bill for material identification.

Products must comply with the lead requirements.

Note:

- Including anklets, arm cuffs, bracelets, charms, brooches, chains,

crowns, cuff links, watches (excluding the timepiece itself if

removable), decorated hair accessories, earrings, necklaces, pins,

rings; similar clothing or shoe ornaments which are detachable;

and body piercing jewelry or any bead, chain, link, pendant, or

other component of such an ornament.

- Accessible materials should be tested.

- For component test together with CPSIA, composite metals and

up to 3 colors / like materials is allowed, transfer the CPSIA result

here for compliance

- Non-suspect materials, except leather, as defined by the

Consumer Products Safety Commission in 16 CFR 1500.91 (d) and

(e) will not be tested. Vendor is responsible for compliance of

these materials.






Upholstered Goods


Visual assessment to confirm content. IF content cannot be determined,

chemical analysis is required



ADULT CHECK LIST

Test Parameter

Woven-

Fabric

Testing

Knit-

Fabric

Testing

Woven-

Garment

Testing

Knit-

Garment

Testing

Intimate

Apparel &

Sleepwear

Swimwear,

Cover-ups Sweaters Denim

Leather &

Suede

Fiber Content – single fibers & all

blends

(for garments, only perform if not done on fabric stage)

● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●

Weight– all colors

(for garments, only perform if not

done on fabric stage)

● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●

Dimensional Stability to Home

Laundering (3x) or Dimensional

Stability to Dry-cleaning (1x) – all colors

● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●

Appearance Evaluation after Home

Laundering/Dry-cleaning– all colors ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●

Thread Count

Yarn Size

Skewness in Fabric/Garment Twist ● ● ● ● ● ●

Tensile Strength ● ●

Tear Strength ● ●

Bursting Strength ●

Seam Strength/Seam Slippage ● ● ● ● ● ●

Seam Stretchability ● ● ● •

Stretch & recovery # # # # # #

Hook & eye Tension # #

pH ● ●

Water Resistance # #

Spray Test # #

Drying Rate # # #

Vertical Wicking # # #

Air Permeability #

Colorfastness to Home Laundering

(3x) – all colors ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●



Test Parameter

Woven-

Fabric

Testing

Knit-

Fabric

Testing

Woven-

Garment

Testing

Knit-

Garment

Testing

Intimate

Apparel &

Sleepwear

Swimwear,

Cover-ups Sweaters Denim

Leather &

Suede

Colorfastness to Dry-cleaning (1cycle)

– all colors (if dry clean) ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●

Colorfastness to Crocking – all colors ● ● • • ● ● ● ● ●

Colorfastness to Light (swimwear only)

– all colors ● ●

Colorfastness to Chlorine & Non-

Chlorine Bleach – all colors ● ● # # ● ● ● ●

Colorfastness to Sea Water (swimwear

only) – all colors ●

Colorfastness to Chlorinated Pool

Water – all colors (swimwear only) ●

Colorfastness to Perspiration (Linings

Only) # # ● ●

Burnt Gas ●

Strap Attachment Strength ● ●

ICI Pilling ●

Random Tumble Pilling ● ●

Zipper Identification ● ● ● ● ● ● ●

General Wearing Apparel Flammability

(on-exempt fabrics) – all colors ● ●

● ● ● ● ● ● ●

Total Lead Content in Paint / Surface

Coatings – all colors # # # # # # # # #

Total Lead Content in Substrate

Material– all colors # # # # # # # # #

Formaldehyde ● ●

+Doc Review for Species ●

All New Material Label – filled, quilted,

padded or stuffed items, only

maurices product only.

● ● ● ● ● ● ●

Metallic Fiber Content Duty

Identification

#



ADULT ADDITIONAL COLOR CHECKLIST

Test Parameter Fabric Garment Sweaters Denim Swimwear Socks Scarves

Weight– all colors ● ● ● ● ●


(on-exempt fabrics) – all colors ● ● ● ● ● ● ●


Laundering (3x) or Dimensional

Stability to Dry-cleaning (1x) – all colors

● ● ● ● ● ●


Laundering/Dry-cleaning– all colors ● ● ● ● ● ●


(3x) – all colors ● ● ● ● ● ●

Colorfastness to Dry-cleaning (1cycle)

– all colors (if dry clean) ● ● ● ● ●

Colorfastness to Crocking – all colors ● ● ● ● ● ● ●


Chlorine Bleach – all colors ● ● ● ● ● ●

pH ●

Colorfastness to Light (swimwear only)

– all colors #

●

Colorfastness to Sea Water (swimwear

only) – all colors #

●

Colorfastness to Chlorinated Pool

Water – all colors (swimwear only) #

●




● ● ● ● ● ●



ADULT ACCESSORIES CHECK LIST

Test Parameter

Socks, Tights,

Legwarmers,

Armwarmers

Scarves,

Hats, Gloves,

Cold Weather

Scarves

Belts,

Travel

Bags,

Handba

gs

Footwear Zippers

Jewelry,

Hair

Accessories

Eyewear

Bath, Body

&

Cosmetics

Candles &

Candle Holders

Fiber Content – single fibers & all

blends ● ●


Laundering (3x) all colors ● ●


Laundering– all colors ● ●

Vertical Wicking #


(3x) – all colors ●

Colorfastness to Crocking – ● ● ● ●

Colorfastness to Perspiration #


Chlorine Bleach – all colors ●

Seam Strength ●

Slippers

Strap Attachment Strength ●

Heel Attachment ●

Heel Impact ●

Toplift-Heel Strength ●

Flex Cracking ●

Sole Bond Peeling ●

Strap/Buckle Attachment ●

Ornament Attachment ●

Slip Resistance ●

Strap Pull Out ●

Construction Quality Assessment ●

Sharp Points / Edges ●

Zipper Strength ●

Labeling ● ●



Test Parameter

Socks, Tights,

Legwarmers,

Armwarmers

Scarves,

Hats, Gloves,

Cold Weather

Scarves

Belts,

Travel

Bags,

Handba

gs

Footwear Zippers

Jewelry,

Hair

Accessories

Eyewear

Bath, Body

&

Cosmetics

Candles &

Candle Holders

Special Markings


(on-exempt fabrics) – all colors ● ●

Total Lead Content in Paint / Surface

Coatings – all colors # # # # # # # # #

Total Lead Content in Substrate

Material– all colors # # # # # #

#

#

#

Cadmium content #

Phthalates # # # # # #

Nickel

Nickel Spot – required on all maurices

jewelry product

#

●maurices

jewelry

Mercury #

Total Heavy Metals in Cosmetics #

Total Lead in Cosmetics #

Candle FPLA ●

Consumer Chemicals & Container

Regulations

●

COO ●

Candle Holder Flammability ●

Flammability of Solids ●

Safety Requirements for Stability ●

Lead Content in Glass, Metal Tea Light

Votive, Candle Holders & Home

Decorative Products

#

Total Lead Content in Candle #

Lead in Metal Wick #

Toxicological Risk Assessment #

Impact Resistance ●

Labeling-Spectacles •



Test Parameter

Socks, Tights,

Legwarmers,

Armwarmers

Scarves,

Hats, Gloves,

Cold Weather

Scarves

Belts,

Travel

Bags,

Handba

gs

Footwear Zippers

Jewelry,

Hair

Accessories

Eyewear

Bath, Body

&

Cosmetics

Candles &

Candle Holders

ANSI Z80.3 Luminous Transmittance

doc review

•

Transmittance properties for

sunglasses and eyewear

a •




• • • • •

•

● = test is required #= as applicable

Documents

Ascena Adult’s Testing Manual V 5images.dressbarn.com/VendorPages/dressbarn/Ascena... · Ascena Adult’s Product Testing Manual Version 5.0 August 2016 CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: