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Ascena Adult’s Testing Manual V 2.0
2 Ascena Adult’s Product Testing Manual Version 2.0 March 2014
CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This Manual contains information that is proprietary and confidential, and is intended for use solely by Ascena Retail Group vendors for the production of The Company’s brand merchandise. It may not be used for any other purpose. Any disclosure, copying, distribution or other use of the information contained herein is STRICTLY PROHIBITED. 2013 Ascena Retail Group.
TABLE OF CONTENTS
APPAREL FABRIC TESTING – WOVEN……….……………………………………………………………………3
APPAREL FABRIC TESTING – KNIT………...………….………………………………………………………….5
APPAREL GARMENT TESTING – WOVENS…….…………………………………………………………………7
APPAREL GARMENT TESTING – KNITS…..…….………….…………………………………………………….9
APPAREL GARMENT TESTING – INTIMATE APPAREL & SLEEPWEAR.……………………………….11
APPAREL GARMENT TESTING – SWIMWEAR & SWIM COVER….………………………………………13
APPAREL GARMENT TESTING – SWEATERS..….………………..……………………………………………15
APPAREL FABRIC & GARMENT TESTING – DENIM..……………………………………………………..…16
APPAREL LEATHER & SUEDE – SKINS & GARMENTS……..……………………………………………….18
ACCESSORIES – SOCKS, TIGHTS, LEGWARMERS, ARMWARMERS…..……………………………….19
ACCESSORIES – FASHION SCARVES, HATS, GLOVES, COLD WEATHER SCARVES….……….…20
ACCESSORIES – BELTS, BACK PACK, SOFT SIDED TOTE, HANDBAG, WALLET, CLUTCHES,
COIN PURSE, TRAVEL BAGS.…….……………………………………………………………………………..… 21
FOOTWEAR….….……….…………………………………………………………………………………………….....22
ZIPPERS…..…….……………………………………………………………………………………………………..…..23
BATH, BODY & COSMETICS………..…………………………………………………………………………..…..25
CANDLES & CANDLE HOLDERS.…..………..……………………………………………………………..………27
SUN GLASSES…..…….………………………………………………………………………………………..…………29
JEWELRY & HAIR ACCESSORIES….….…………………………………………………………………………...30
CHECK LIST ……………………………………………………………………………………………………………….32
3 Ascena Adult’s Product Testing Manual Version 2.0 March 2014
CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This Manual contains information that is proprietary and confidential, and is intended for use solely by Ascena Retail Group vendors for the production of The Company’s brand merchandise. It may not be used for any other purpose. Any disclosure, copying, distribution or other use of the information contained herein is STRICTLY PROHIBITED. 2013 Ascena Retail Group.
Apparel Fabric Testing – Woven PROTOCOL-001
Submit:A minimum of two (2) yards in one (1) colorway must be submitted for full package testing. One half (1/2) yard of each additional color is to be submitted for additional colorway testing (as applicable).Submitted fabric must be representative of finished bulk fabric that will be used in garment production. Note: Actual sample quantity required may be communicated separately by TESTING SERVICE PROVIDER if the samples submitted are not large enough to work with. Evaluation Test Methods Requirements
Flammability (General Wearing Apparel) non-exempt fabrics– all colors
16 CFR 1610 Canada SOR/2011-22
Class I Must Comply with Regulations
Fiber Content AATCC 20/20A For blends, +/- 3% maximum For single fibers, +/- 0% tolerance
Weight – all colors ASTM D3776 +5%/- 5%
Dimensional Stability: Home Laundering (1x and 3x)– all colors
AATCC 135 modified
+/- 3% Spandex Blends / Rayon Blends: +/- 4% Modified = adding multi fiber test fabric
Dimensional Stability: Dry-cleaning (1x) – all colors
AATCC 158 or Professional Method
modified
+/- 2% Modified = adding multi fiber test fabric
Appearance Evaluation After Home Laundering/ Dry-cleaning– all colors
ARG-00002 -MTHD-APPEARANCE AFTER
CARE 3.5 or Satisfactory
Tensile Strength
ASTM D5034
Shell
≤ 3.0 oz/yd2 ( ≤ 101.7 gm/m2) 20 lbs minimum > 3.0 - 4.0oz/yd2 ( > 101.7~135.6 gm/m2) 25 lbs minimum > 4.0 - 6.0oz/yd2 ( > 135.6~203.4 gm/m2) 30 lbs minimum >6.0 oz/yd2 ( > 203.4 gm/m2) 40 lbs minimum
Lining <3 oz/yd2 ( < 101.7 gm/m2) 15 lbs minimum ≥ 3oz/yd2 ( ≥ 101.7 gm/m2) 20 lbs minimum
Tear Strength Shell Fabric
≤ 3.0 oz/yd2 ( ≤ 101.7 gm/m2) > 3.0-4.0oz/yd2 ( > 101.7~135.6gm/m2) > 4.0-6.0oz/yd2 ( > 135.6~203.4 gm/m2) >6.0 oz/yd2 ( > 203.4 gm/m2)
Lining <3 oz/yd2 ( < 101.7 gm/m2) ≥ 3oz/yd2 (≥ 101.7 gm/m2)
ASTM D1424
1.5 lbs minimum 2.0 lbs minimum 3.0 lbs minimum 4.0 lbs minimum 1.0 lbs minimum 1.5 lbs minimum
Colorfastness to Actual Laundering After 1 HL, 3 HL as per care label All colors
AATCC 135 modified
General Color Change: Grade 4.0 minimum, after 3 HL Self-Staining: Grade 4.5 minimum, after 3 HL Color Staining: Grade 3.0 minimum, after 1 HL Pigment Prints or Pigment Dyed Products Color Change: Grade 3.5 minimum Self-Staining: Grade 4.5 minimum Color Staining: Grade 3.0 minimum Modification = Adding Multifiber to Specimen Rate CC without UV suppressor Pass/Fail. For off white or pastel body fabric shades, rate with UV suppressor – report as Data only
Colorfastness to Dry-cleaning A/1 cycle – all colors AATCC 158 modified
Color Change: Grade 4.0 minimum Self-Staining: Grade 4.5 minimum Staining: Grade 3.0 minimum Modification = Scope is Expanded to Evaluate Color/Staining
4 Ascena Adult’s Product Testing Manual Version 2.0 March 2014
CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This Manual contains information that is proprietary and confidential, and is intended for use solely by Ascena Retail Group vendors for the production of The Company’s brand merchandise. It may not be used for any other purpose. Any disclosure, copying, distribution or other use of the information contained herein is STRICTLY PROHIBITED. 2013 Ascena Retail Group.
Apparel Fabric Testing – Woven (continued) PROTOCOL-001
Colorfastness to Crocking – all colors (In case of failure, perform after 1 wash as per care label. Report as Data only)
AATCC 8 or AATCC 116
General Dry: Grade 4.0 minimum Wet: Grade 3.0 minimum Pigment Prints & Dyes /Black/Neon Dry: Grade 3.5 minimum Wet: Grade 2.5 minimum
Colorfastness to Chlorine and Non Chlorine Bleach – all colors AATCC/ASTM TS-001 Color Change: Grade 4.0 minimum
Colorfastness to Perspiration – all colors lining fabrics for jackets, vests AATCC 15
Color Change: Grade 4.0 minimum Self-Staining: Grade 4.5 minimum Color Staining: Grade 3.0 minimum
LEAD & PHTHALATES TESTING IS REQUIRED ON DECORATIVE TRIM SOLD WITH PRODUCT (WHEN APPLICABLE). REFERENCE ACCESSORIES / FOOTWEAR TEST PROTOCOL METHOD*
5 Ascena Adult’s Product Testing Manual Version 2.0 March 2014
CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This Manual contains information that is proprietary and confidential, and is intended for use solely by Ascena Retail Group vendors for the production of The Company’s brand merchandise. It may not be used for any other purpose. Any disclosure, copying, distribution or other use of the information contained herein is STRICTLY PROHIBITED. 2013 Ascena Retail Group.
Apparel Fabric Testing – Knit PROTOCOL-002
Submit:A minimum of two (2) yards in one (1) colorway must be submitted for full package testing.One half (1/2) yard of each additional color is to be submitted for additional colorway testing (as applicable).Submitted fabric must be representative of finished bulk fabric that will be used in garment production. Note: Actual sample quantity required may be communicated separately by TESTING SERVICE PROVIDER if the samples submitted are not large enough to work with. Evaluation Test Methods Requirements Flammability (General Wearing Apparel) non-exempt fabrics– all colors
16 CFR 1610 Canada SOR/2011-22
Class I Must Comply with Regulations
Fiber content AATCC 20/20A
For blends, +/- 3% maximum For single fibers, +/- 0% tolerance
Weight– all colors ASTM D3776 +/- 5%
Dimensional Stability: Home Laundering (3x) – all colors
AATCC 135 modified
Basic Knits +/- 5% Modified = adding multi fiber test fabric Rib / Novelty Knits +/- 6%
Dimensional Stability: Dry-cleaning (1x) – all colors
AATCC 158 or Professional Method
modified
+/- 2% Modified = adding multi fiber test fabric
Appearance Evaluation After Home Laundering/ Dry-cleaning– all colors
ARG-00002 -MTHD-APPEARANCE AFTER
CARE 3.5 or Satisfactory
Skewness in Fabric AATCC 179 Method 2, Option 3 5% maximum
Bursting Strength ASTM D3786
≥ 4 oz: 50 psi < 4 oz: 30 psi Lace ≥ 4 oz: 30 psi < 4 oz: 20 psi
Colorfastness to Actual Laundering After 1 HL, 3 HL as per care label – all colors
AATCC 135 modified
General Color Change: Grade 4.0 minimum, after 3 HL Self-Staining: Grade 4.5 minimum, after 3 HL Color Staining: Grade 3.0 minimum, after 1 HL Pigment Prints or Pigment Dyed Products Color Change: Grade 3.5 minimum Self-Staining: Grade 4.5 minimum Color Staining: Grade 3.0 minimum Modification = Adding Multifiber to Specimen Rate CC without UV suppressor Pass/Fail. For off white or pastel body fabric shades, rate with UV suppressor – report as Data only
Colorfastness to Dry-cleaning A/1 cycle – all colors AATCC 158 modified
Color Change: Grade 4.0 minimum Self-Staining: Grade 4.5 minimum Staining: Grade 3.0 minimum Modification = Scope is Expanded to Evaluate Color/Staining
Colorfastness to Crocking – all colors (In case of failure, perform after 1 wash as per care label. Report as Data only)
AATCC 8 or AATCC 116
General Dry: Grade 4.0 minimum Wet: Grade 3.0 minimum Pigment Prints & Dyes /Black/Neon Dry: Grade 3.5 minimum Wet: Grade 2.5 minimum
Colorfastness to Chlorine and Non Chlorine Bleach – all colors AATCC/ASTM TS-001 Color Change: Grade 4.0 minimum
6 Ascena Adult’s Product Testing Manual Version 2.0 March 2014
CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This Manual contains information that is proprietary and confidential, and is intended for use solely by Ascena Retail Group vendors for the production of The Company’s brand merchandise. It may not be used for any other purpose. Any disclosure, copying, distribution or other use of the information contained herein is STRICTLY PROHIBITED. 2013 Ascena Retail Group.
Apparel Fabric Testing – Knit (continued) PROTOCOL-002
Colorfastness to Perspiration – all colors lining fabrics for jackets, vests AATCC 15
Color Change: Grade 4.0 minimum Self-Staining: Grade 4.5 minimum Color Staining: Grade 3.0 minimum
LEAD & PHTHALATES TESTING IS REQUIRED ON DECORATIVE TRIM SOLD WITH PRODUCT (WHEN APPLICABLE). REFERENCE ACCESSORIES / FOOTWEAR TEST PROTOCOL METHOD*
7 Ascena Adult’s Product Testing Manual Version 2.0 March 2014
CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This Manual contains information that is proprietary and confidential, and is intended for use solely by Ascena Retail Group vendors for the production of The Company’s brand merchandise. It may not be used for any other purpose. Any disclosure, copying, distribution or other use of the information contained herein is STRICTLY PROHIBITED. 2013 Ascena Retail Group.
Apparel Garment Testing – Wovens PROTOCOL-003
Submit:two (2) garments for each style in one (1) colorway for full package garment testing. Each additional color is to be submitted for additional colorway testing. Note: Actual sample quantity required may be communicated separately by TESTING SERVICE PROVIDER if the samples submitted are not large enough to work with. Evaluation Test Methods RequirementsFiber Content Assumes fiber content of fabric confirmed at fabric stage.
AATCC 20/20A
For blends, +/- 3% maximum. For single fibers, +/- 0% tolerance
Dimensional Stability to Home Laundering (3x) – all colors AATCC 150 modified
+/- 3% Spandex Blends / Rayon Blends: +/- 4% Modified = adding multi fiber test fabric
Dimensional Stability to Dry-cleaning (1x) – all colors
AATCC 158 or Professional Method
modified
+/- 2% Modified = adding multi fiber test fabric
Appearance Evaluation After Home Laundering/ Dry-cleaning – all colors
ARG-00002-MTHD-APPEARANCE AFTER
CARE 3.5 or Satisfactory
Seam Strength/ Seam Slippage Shell
≤ 3.0 oz/yd2 ( <101.7 gm/m2) > 3.0 - 4.0oz/yd2 ( > 101.7 ~ 135.6gm/m2) > 4.0 - 6.0oz/yd2 ( > 135.6 ~ 203.4gm/m2) >6.0 oz/yd2 ( > 203.4 gm/m2)
Lining <3 oz/yd2 ( < 101.7 gm/m2) ≥ 3oz/yd2 ( ≥ 101.7 gm/m2)
Strap Attachment
ASTM D1683
15 lbs min 20 lbs min 25 lbs min 30 lbs min 15 lbs min 20 lbs min 15 lbs min Functional 10 lbs min Lace
Water Resistance - rainwear duty garments, water resistance claim AATCC 35 1 gm. Max. for 2 minute duration at 600 millimeters Water Repellency: Spray Test - water repellent claims; applies to both shell & lining fabrics AATCC 22 100 min
Colorfastness to Actual Laundering After 1 HL, 3 HL as per care label All colors
AATCC 150 modified
General Color Change: Grade 4.0 minimum, after 3 HL Self-Staining: Grade 4.5 minimum, after 3 HL Color Staining: Grade 3.0 minimum, after 1 HL Pigment Prints or Pigment Dyed Products Color Change: Grade 3.5 minimum Self-Staining: Grade 4.5 minimum Color Staining: Grade 3.0 minimum Modification = Adding Multifiber to Specimen Rate CC without UV suppressor Pass/Fail. For off white or pastel body fabric shades, rate with UV suppressor – report as Data only
Colorfastness to Dry-cleaning A/1 cycle – all colors AATCC 158 modified
Color Change: Grade 4.0 minimum Self-Staining: Grade 4.5 minimum Staining: Grade 3.0 minimum Modification = Scope is Expanded to Evaluate Color/Staining
8 Ascena Adult’s Product Testing Manual Version 2.0 March 2014
CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This Manual contains information that is proprietary and confidential, and is intended for use solely by Ascena Retail Group vendors for the production of The Company’s brand merchandise. It may not be used for any other purpose. Any disclosure, copying, distribution or other use of the information contained herein is STRICTLY PROHIBITED. 2013 Ascena Retail Group.
Apparel Garment Testing – Wovens (continued) PROTOCOL-003
LEAD & PHTHALATES TESTING IS REQUIRED ON DECORATIVE TRIM SOLD WITH PRODUCT (WHEN APPLICABLE). REFERENCE ACCESSORIES / FOOTWEAR TEST PROTOCOL METHOD*
Colorfastness to Crocking – all colors (In case of failure, perform after 1 wash as per care label. Report as Data only)
AATCC 8 or AATCC 116
General Dry: Grade 4.0 minimum Wet: Grade 3.0 minimum For Pigment Prints & Dyes/ Black/Neon Dry: Grade 3.5 minimum Wet: Grade 2.5 minimum
Colorfastness to Chlorine and Non-Chlorine Bleach – all colors AATCC/ASTM TS-001 Color Change: Grade 4.0 minimum
Zipper Marking Visual Assessment Approved trim supplier brand marking required Criteria - Pass/Fail
Flammability (General Wearing Apparel) Non-exempt Fabrics – perform only if not tested at fabric stage – all colors
16 CFR 1610 Canada SOR/2011-22
Class I Must Comply with Regulations
Stretch and Recovery (Bottoms Only with >=2% elastomeric/stretch fiber)
ASTM 3107 or ASTM D6614
Extension : 15% @ 4lbs. /2”Width Maximum Growth: 5% @ 30 min.
9 Ascena Adult’s Product Testing Manual Version 2.0 March 2014
CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This Manual contains information that is proprietary and confidential, and is intended for use solely by Ascena Retail Group vendors for the production of The Company’s brand merchandise. It may not be used for any other purpose. Any disclosure, copying, distribution or other use of the information contained herein is STRICTLY PROHIBITED. 2013 Ascena Retail Group.
Apparel Garment Testing – Knits PROTOCOL-004
Submit:two (2) garments for each style in one (1) colorway for full package garment testing. Each additional color is to be submitted for additional colorway testing. Note: Actual sample quantity required may be communicated separately by TESTING SERVICE PROVIDER if the samples submitted are not large enough to work with. Evaluation Test Methods Requirements Fiber Content Assumes fiber content of fabric confirmed at fabric stage.
AATCC 20/20A For blends, +/- 3% maximum For single fibers, +/- 0% tolerance
Dimensional Stability to Home Laundering (3x) – all colors
AATCC 150 modified
Basic Knits +/-5% Modified = adding multi fiber test fabric Rib / Novelty Knits +/- 6% Modified = adding multi fiber test fabric
Dimensional Stability to Dry-cleaning (1x) – all colors
AATCC 158 or Professional Method modified
+/- 2% Modified = adding multi fiber test fabric
Appearance Evaluation After Home Laundering/ Dry-cleaning – all colors
ARG-00002-MTHD-APPEARANCE AFTER CARE 3.5 or Satisfactory
Skewness in Fabric and Garment Twist AATCC 179 Method 2, Option 3 5% maximum
Strap Attachment ASTM D1683 15 lbs min Functional 10 lbs min Lace
Seam Stretchability of Knitted Garments AATCC/ASTM TS-015 15 lbs or 40% elongation minimum Water Resistance - rainwear duty garments, water resistance claim AATCC 35 1 gm. Max. for 2 minute duration at 600 millimeters
Water Repellency: Spray Test - water repellent claims; applies to both shell & lining fabrics AATCC 22 100 min
Vertical Wicking of Textiles - claim regarding absorbency or wicking
ARG-00004 MTHD-VERTICAL WICKING 8 cm A/20 minutes min.
Drying Rate -claim regarding quick dry ARG-00003-MTHD DRYING RATE
Before Wash: 70% min. After 5x cycles: rate as data only
Air Permeability – wind resistance claim; shell fabric only ASTM D737 5.0 cfm max.
Colorfastness to Actual Laundering After 1 HL, 3 HL as per care label All colors
AATCC 150 modified
General Color Change: Grade 4.0 minimum, after 3 HL Self-Staining: Grade 4.5 minimum, after 3 HL Color Staining: Grade 3.0 minimum, after 1 HL Pigment Prints or Pigment Dyed Products Color Change: Grade 3.5 minimum Self-Staining: Grade 4.5 minimum Color Staining: Grade 3.0 minimum Modification = Adding Multifiber to Specimen Rate CC without UV suppressor Pass/Fail. For off white or pastel body fabric shades, rate with UV suppressor – report as Data only
Colorfastness to Dry-cleaning A/1 cycle – all colors AATCC 158 modified
Color Change: Grade 4.0 minimum Self-Staining: Grade 4.5 minimum Staining: Grade 3.0 minimum Modification = Scope is Expanded to Evaluate Color/Staining
10 Ascena Adult’s Product Testing Manual Version 2.0 March 2014
CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This Manual contains information that is proprietary and confidential, and is intended for use solely by Ascena Retail Group vendors for the production of The Company’s brand merchandise. It may not be used for any other purpose. Any disclosure, copying, distribution or other use of the information contained herein is STRICTLY PROHIBITED. 2013 Ascena Retail Group.
Apparel Garment Testing – Knits (continued) PROTOCOL-004
LEAD & PHTHALATES TESTING IS REQUIRED ON DECORATIVE TRIM SOLD WITH PRODUCT (WHEN APPLICABLE). REFERENCE ACCESSORIES / FOOTWEAR TEST PROTOCOL METHOD*
Colorfastness to Crocking – all colors (In case of failure, perform after 1 wash as per care label. Report as Data only)
AATCC 8 or AATCC 116
General Dry: Grade 4.0 minimum Wet: Grade 3.0 minimum For Pigment Prints & Dyes /Black/Neon Dry: Grade 3.5 minimum Wet: Grade 2.5 minimum
Colorfastness to Chlorine & Non-Chlorine Bleach– all colors AATCC/ASTM TS-001
Color Change: Grade 4.0 minimum
Zipper Marking Visual Assessment Approved trim supplier brand marking required Criteria - Pass/Fail
Flammability (General Wearing Apparel) Non-exempt Fabrics – perform only if not tested at fabric stage – all colors
16 CFR 1610 Canada SOR/2011-22
Class I Must Comply with Regulations
11 Ascena Adult’s Product Testing Manual Version 2.0 March 2014
CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This Manual contains information that is proprietary and confidential, and is intended for use solely by Ascena Retail Group vendors for the production of The Company’s brand merchandise. It may not be used for any other purpose. Any disclosure, copying, distribution or other use of the information contained herein is STRICTLY PROHIBITED. 2013 Ascena Retail Group.
Apparel Fabric & Garment Testing – Intimate Apparel & Sleepwear PROTOCOL-005
Submit:two (2) garments for each style in one (1) colorway for full package garment testing. For intimates apparel submit (4) four garments for each style in one (1) colorway. Each additional color is to be submitted for additional colorway testing. Note: Actual sample quantity required may be communicated separately by TESTING SERVICE PROVIDER if the samples submitted are not large enough to work with. Evaluation Test Methods Requirements Fiber Content Assumes fiber content of fabric confirmed at fabric stage.
AATCC 20/20A For blends, +/- 3% maximum For single fibers, +/- 0% tolerance
Weight– all colors ASTM 3776 +/- 5%
Dimensional Stability to Home Laundering (3x) – all colors
AATCC 135 / 150 modified
Basic Knits +/-5% Rib / Novelty Knits +/- 6% Modified = adding multi fiber test fabric Wovens +/- 3% Woven Spandex Blends / Rayon Blends: +/- 4% Modified = adding multi fiber test fabric
Dimensional Stability to Dry-cleaning (1x) – all colors
AATCC 158 or Professional Method modified
+/- 2% Modified = adding multi fiber test fabric
Appearance Evaluation After Home Laundering/ Dry-cleaning – all colors
ARG-00002-MTHD-APPEARANCE AFTER CARE 3.5 or Satisfactory
Skewness in Fabric and Garment Twist AATCC 179 Method 2, Option 3 5% maximum Seam Stretchability of Knitted Garments AATCC/ASTM TS-015 15 lbs or 40% elongation minimum Seam Strength/Seam Slippage
≤ 3.0 oz/yd2 ( <101.7 gm/m2) > 3.0 - 4.0oz/yd2
( > 101.7 ~ 135.6gm/m2) > 4.0 - 6.0oz/yd2 ( > 135.6 ~ 203.4
gm/m2) >6.0 oz/yd2 ( > 203.4 gm/m2)
ASTM D1683
15 lbs min 20 lbs min 25 lbs min 30 lbs min
Bursting Strength – Mullen Method ASTM D 3786
Fabric: 50 psi minimum Garment Seams: 30 psi minimum Lace: > 4 oz/sq yd: 30 psi minimum <= 4 oz/sq yd: 20 psi minimum
Vertical Wicking of Textiles - claim regarding absorbency or wicking;
ARG-00004-MTHD-VERTICAL WICKING 8 cm A/20 minutes min.
Drying Rate -claim regarding quick dry; ARG-00003-MTHD DRYING RATE
Before Wash: 70% min. After 5x cycles: rate as data only
Colorfastness to Actual Laundering After 1 HL, 3 HL as per care label All colors
AATCC 150 modified
General Color Change: Grade 4.0 minimum, after 3 HL Self-Staining: Grade 4.5 minimum, after 3 HL Color Staining: Grade 3.0 minimum, after 1 HL Pigment Prints or Pigment Dyed Products Color Change: Grade 3.5 minimum Self-Staining: Grade 4.5 minimum Color Staining: Grade 3.0 minimum Modification = Adding Multifiber to Specimen Rate CC without UV suppressor Pass/Fail. For off white or pastel body fabric shades, rate with UV suppressor – report as Data only
Colorfastness to Dry-cleaning A/1 cycle – all colors AATCC 158 modified
Color Change: Grade 4.0 minimum Self-Staining: Grade 4.5 minimum Staining: Grade 3.0 minimum Modification = Scope is Expanded to Evaluate Color/Staining
12 Ascena Adult’s Product Testing Manual Version 2.0 March 2014
CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This Manual contains information that is proprietary and confidential, and is intended for use solely by Ascena Retail Group vendors for the production of The Company’s brand merchandise. It may not be used for any other purpose. Any disclosure, copying, distribution or other use of the information contained herein is STRICTLY PROHIBITED. 2013 Ascena Retail Group.
Apparel Fabric & Garment Testing – Intimate Apparel & Sleepwear (continued) PROTOCOL-005
LEAD & PHTHALATES TESTING IS REQUIRED ON DECORATIVE TRIM SOLD WITH PRODUCT (WHEN APPLICABLE). REFERENCE ACCESSORIES / FOOTWEAR TEST PROTOCOL METHOD*
Colorfastness to Crocking – all colors AATCC 8 or AATCC 116
General Dry: Grade 4.0 minimum Wet: Grade 3.0 minimum For Pigment Prints & Dyes / Black/Neon Dry: Grade 3.5 minimum Wet: Grade 2.5 minimum
Colorfastness to Chlorine & Non-Chlorine Bleach– all colors AATCC/ASTM TS-001 Color Change: Grade 4.0 minimum
Colorfastness to Perspiration – all colors Intimate Apparel AATCC 15
Color Change: Grade 4.0 minimum Self-Staining: Grade 4.5 minimum Color Staining: Grade 3.0 minimum
Colorfastness to Burnt Gas Fumes (White Bra Only) AATCC23 Grade 4 minimum after 1 cycle
Flammability (General Wearing Apparel) non-exempt fabrics– all colors
16 CFR 1610 Canada SOR/2011-22
Class I Must Comply with Regulations
Formaldehyde Content in Textile Intimate Apparel Only JIS L1041
Only conduct if spot test shows positive or inconclusive result. All fabrics/trims that come into contact with skin shall not exceed 75 mg/kg (75 ppm).
Formaldehyde Spot Test on Textile Intimate Apparel Only AATCC 94
Body Fabric/Fabric/Trim (including elastic, embroidery, ribbons, bows, applique, drawcord, patches, twill tape, etc.) shall be negative result. Not applied on synthetic fibers like polyester, nylon, PU, etc.; wet chem. analysis should be done.
pH Intimate Apparel Only AATCC 81 White: 5.5 – 7.0
Others: 5.0 – 9.0
Hook & Eye Tension ARG-00001 No breakage, deformation, detachment, shifting or other damage after 30 lbs hold for 10 seconds. All hooks and eyes are required to meet requirements.
Bra Band Elongation ARG-00005 Minimum: Report as Data Maximum: Report as Data
Stretch & Fabrics: Load, Elongation, & Recovery Intimate Apparel Only (All Fabrics and Functional Elastics )
ASTM D2594
In stretch direction only:
Elastic Fiber Content Test In Original State and After aging 5 hours at 200° F
1 – 5%: Measure Growth after 60 minutes. Pass or fail based on growth.
Growth: maximum 7.0%
Above 5%, but less than 10%: Measure Growth and Recovery after 60 minutes. Report both growth and recovery. Pass or fail based on growth.
Growth: maximum 5.0%
Equal to or greater than 10%: Measure Recovery after 60 seconds. Pass or fail based on recovery.
Recovery: Minimum 85.0%
13 Ascena Adult’s Product Testing Manual Version 2.0 March 2014
CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This Manual contains information that is proprietary and confidential, and is intended for use solely by Ascena Retail Group vendors for the production of The Company’s brand merchandise. It may not be used for any other purpose. Any disclosure, copying, distribution or other use of the information contained herein is STRICTLY PROHIBITED. 2013 Ascena Retail Group.
Apparel Fabric & Garment Testing – Swimwear & Swim Cover-up PROTOCOL-006
Submit:two (2) garments for each style in one (1) colorway for full package garment testing. For swimwear submit (4) four garments for each style in one (1) colorway. Each additional color is to be submitted for additional colorway testing. Note: Actual sample quantity required may be communicated separately by TESTING SERVICE PROVIDER if the samples submitted are not large enough to work with. Evaluation Test Methods Requirements Fiber Content Assumes fiber content of fabric confirmed at fabric stage.
AATCC 20/20A For blends, +/- 3% maximum For single fibers, +/- 0% tolerance
Weight– all colors ASTM 3776 +/- 5%
Dimensional Stability to Home Laundering (3x) – all colors
AATCC 135 / 150 modified
Basic Knits +/-5% Rib / Novelty Knits +/- 6% Modified = adding multi fiber test fabric
Dimensional Stability to Home Laundering (3x) – all colors
AATCC 135 / 150 modified
Wovens +/- 3% Woven Spandex Blends / Rayon Blends: +/- 4% Modified = adding multi fiber test fabric
Dimensional Stability to Dry-cleaning (1x) – all colors
AATCC 158 or Professional Method modified
+/- 2% Modified = adding multi fiber test fabric
Appearance Evaluation After Home Laundering/ Dry-cleaning – all colors
ARG-00002-MTHD-APPEARANCE AFTER CARE 3.5 or Satisfactory
Skewness in Fabric and Garment Twist AATCC 179 Method 2, Option 3 5% maximum Seam Stretchability of Knitted Garments AATCC/ASTM TS-015 15 lbs or 40% elongation minimum Seam Strength/Seam Slippage
≤ 3.0 oz/yd2 ( <101.7 gm/m2) > 3.0 - 4.0oz/yd2
( > 101.7 ~ 135.6gm/m2) > 4.0 - 6.0oz/yd2 ( > 135.6 ~ 203.4
gm/m2) >6.0 oz/yd2 ( > 203.4 gm/m2)
ASTM D1683
15 lbs min 20 lbs min 25 lbs min 30 lbs min
Vertical Wicking of Textiles - claim regarding absorbency or wicking;
ARG-00004-MTHD-VERTICAL WICKING 8 cm A/20 minutes min.
Drying Rate -claim regarding quick dry; ARG-00003-MTHD DRYING RATE
Before Wash: 70% min. After 5x cycles: rate as data only
Colorfastness to Actual Laundering After 1 HL, 3 HL as per care label All colors
AATCC 150 modified
General Color Change: Grade 4.0 minimum, after 3 HL Self-Staining: Grade 4.5 minimum, after 3 HL Color Staining: Grade 3.0 minimum, after 1 HL Pigment Prints or Pigment Dyed Products Color Change: Grade 3.5 minimum Self-Staining: Grade 4.5 minimum Color Staining: Grade 3.0 minimum Modification = Adding Multifiber to Specimen Rate CC without UV suppressor Pass/Fail. For off white or pastel body fabric shades, rate with UV suppressor – report as Data only
Colorfastness to Dry-cleaning A/1 cycle – all colors AATCC 158 modified
Color Change: Grade 4.0 minimum Self-Staining: Grade 4.5 minimum Staining: Grade 3.0 minimum Modification = Scope is Expanded to Evaluate Color/Staining
14 Ascena Adult’s Product Testing Manual Version 2.0 March 2014
CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This Manual contains information that is proprietary and confidential, and is intended for use solely by Ascena Retail Group vendors for the production of The Company’s brand merchandise. It may not be used for any other purpose. Any disclosure, copying, distribution or other use of the information contained herein is STRICTLY PROHIBITED. 2013 Ascena Retail Group.
Apparel Fabric & Garment Testing – Swimwear & Swim Cover-up (continued) PROTOCOL-006
LEAD & PHTHALATES TESTING IS REQUIRED ON DECORATIVE TRIM SOLD WITH PRODUCT (WHEN APPLICABLE). REFERENCE ACCESSORIES / FOOTWEAR TEST PROTOCOL METHOD*
Colorfastness to Crocking – all colors AATCC 8 or AATCC 116
General Dry: Grade 4.0 minimum Wet: Grade 3.0 minimum For Pigment Prints & Dyes / Black/Neon Dry: Grade 3.5 minimum Wet: Grade 2.5 minimum
Colorfastness to Light – all colors AATCC 16 Option 3 20 AFU’s
Grade 3.0 minimum Neon Colors: Grade 2.0 minimum
Colorfastness to Chlorine & Non-Chlorine Bleach– all colors AATCC/ASTM TS-001 Color Change: Grade 4.0 minimum
Colorfastness to Sea Water - swimwear, only– all colors AATCC 106
Color Change: Grade 4.0 minimum Self-Staining: Grade 4.5 minimum Color Staining: Grade 3.0 minimum
Colorfastness to Chlorinated Pool Water- swimwear, only– all colors
EN ISO 105 E03 50ml Solution Color Change: Grade 3.5 minimum
Hook & Eye Tension ARG-00001 No breakage, deformation, detachment, shifting or other damage after 30 lbs hold for 10 seconds. All hooks and eyes are required to meet requirements.
Zipper Marking Visual Assessment Approved trim supplier brand marking required Criteria - Pass/Fail
Flammability (General Wearing Apparel) Non-exempt Fabrics – all colors
16 CFR 1610 Canada SOR/2011-22
Class I Must Comply with Regulations
15 Ascena Adult’s Product Testing Manual Version 2.0 March 2014
CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This Manual contains information that is proprietary and confidential, and is intended for use solely by Ascena Retail Group vendors for the production of The Company’s brand merchandise. It may not be used for any other purpose. Any disclosure, copying, distribution or other use of the information contained herein is STRICTLY PROHIBITED. 2013 Ascena Retail Group.
Apparel Garment Testing – Sweaters PROTOCOL-007 Submit:two (2) garments for each style in one (1) colorway along with one (1) additional garment or knit down panels (three (3) pcs 24” x 24”) of additional color, stripe or pattern. Note: Actual sample quantity required may be communicated separately by TESTING SERVICE PROVIDER if the samples submitted are not large enough to work with. Evaluation Test Methods Requirements
Fiber Content AATCC 20/20A For blends, +/- 3% maximum For single fibers, +/- 0% tolerance
Weight– all colors Per dozen garments +/-5%
Dimensional Stability to Home Laundering– all colors
AATCC 150 modified
+/- 5% Modified = adding multi fiber test fabric
Dimensional Stability to Dry-cleaning (1x) – all colors
AATCC 158 or Professional Method modified
+/- 2% Modified = adding multi fiber test fabric
Appearance Evaluation After Home Laundering / Dry-cleaning – all colors
ARG-00002-MTHD-APPEARANCE AFTER
CARE 3.5 or Satisfactory
Colorfastness to Actual Laundering After 1 HL, 3 HL as per care label All colors
AATCC 150 modified
General Color Change: Grade 4.0 minimum, after 3 HL Self-Staining: Grade 4.5 minimum, after 3 HL Color Staining: Grade 3.0 minimum, after 1 HL Pigment Prints or Pigment Dyed Products Color Change: Grade 3.5 minimum Self-Staining: Grade 4.5 minimum Color Staining: Grade 3.0 minimum Modification = Adding Multifiber to Specimen Rate CC without UV suppressor Pass/Fail. For off white or pastel body fabric shades, rate with UV suppressor – report as Data only
Colorfastness to Dry-cleaning A/1 cycle – all colors AATCC 158 modified
Color Change: Grade 4.0 minimum Self-Staining: Grade 4.5 minimum Staining: Grade 3.0 minimum Modification = Scope is Expanded to Evaluate Color/Staining
Colorfastness to Crocking – all colors (In case of failure, perform after 1 wash as per care label. Report as Data only)
AATCC 8 or AATCC 116
Dry: Grade 4.0 minimum Wet: Grade 3.0 minimum
Colorfastness to Chlorine and Non-Chlorine Bleach – all colors AATCC/ASTM TS-001 Color Change: Grade 4.0 minimum
Skewness in Fabric and Garment Twist AATCC 179 Method 2, Option 3 5% maximum
Seam Stretchability of Knitted Garments AATCC/ASTM TS-015 15 lbs or 40% elongation minimum
Pilling Resistance (ICI Method – Sweaters) IWS 152/ ISO 12945-1 Lambswool, Cashmere – Grade 3 A/2 hrs
All Others – Grade 3 A/4 hrs.
Zipper Marking Visual Assessment Approved trim supplier brand marking required Criteria - Pass/Fail
Flammability (General Wearing Apparel) Non-exempt Fabrics – perform only if not tested at fabric stage – all colors
16 CFR 1610 Canada SOR/2011-22
Class I Must comply with Regulations
LEAD & PHTHALATES TESTING IS REQUIRED ON DECORATIVE TRIM SOLD WITH PRODUCT (WHEN APPLICABLE). REFERENCE ACCESSORIES / FOOTWEAR TEST PROTOCOL METHOD*
16 Ascena Adult’s Product Testing Manual Version 2.0 March 2014
CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This Manual contains information that is proprietary and confidential, and is intended for use solely by Ascena Retail Group vendors for the production of The Company’s brand merchandise. It may not be used for any other purpose. Any disclosure, copying, distribution or other use of the information contained herein is STRICTLY PROHIBITED. 2013 Ascena Retail Group.
Apparel Fabric & Garment Testing – Denim PROTOCOL-008
Submit:two (2) garments for each style in one (1) colorway and one (1) garment in each additional colorway. Note: Actual sample quantity required may be communicated separately by TESTING SERVICE PROVIDER if the samples submitted are not large enough to work with.
Evaluation Test Methods Requirements
Fiber Content AATCC 20/20A For blends, +/- 3% maximum For single fibers, +/- 0% tolerance
Weight – all colors ASTM 3776 +/- 5%
Dimensional Stability to Home Laundering– all finishes/colors
Fabric: AATCC 135 Garment: AATCC 150
modified
+/- 3% Modified = adding multi fiber test fabric
Appearance Evaluation After Home Laundering – all finishes/colors
ARG-00002-MTHD-APPEARANCE AFTER
CARE
3.5 or Satisfactory Coloration applied by Tint - Report Data Only
Skewness in Fabric and Garment Twist AATCC 179 Method 2, Option 3 5% maximum
Tensile Strength < 6.0oz/yd2 ( < 203.4 gm/m2) ≥ 6.0 - <8.0 oz/yd2 (≥203.4 ~ < 271.2 gm/m2) ≥ 8.0 - <10.0 oz/yd2 (≥271.2 ~ < 339.1 gm/m2) ≥ 10.0 oz/yd2 (≥ 339.1 gm/m2)
ASTM D5034
65 x 40 lbs min 65 x 50 lbs min 70 x 55 lbs min 75 x 65 lbs min
Tear Strength < 6.0oz/yd2 (<203.4 gm/m2) ≥ 6.0 - < 8.0 oz/yd2 (≥203.4 ~ < 271.2 gm/m2) ≥ 8.0 - < 10.0 oz/yd2 (≥271.2 ~ < 339.1
gm/m2) ≥ 10.0 oz/yd2 (≥ 339.1 gm/m2)
ASTM D1424 ASTM D2261
3.5 x 3.0 lbs min 3.5 x 3.0 lbs min 4.0 x 3.5 lbs min 4.5 x 4.0 lbs min
Seam Strength < 6.0oz/yd2 ( < 203.4 gm/m2) ≥6.0 oz/yd2 (≥203.4 gm/m2)
ASTM D1683
<6.0 oz/yd2
Seams – 20 lbs min Felled Seams – 25 lbs min ≥ 6.0 oz/yd2 Seams – 30 lbs min Felled Seams – 30 lbs min Reinforced and Bartack seams: -20 lbs minimum
pH - washed garments only (all colors) AATCC 81 All Colors: 5 – 8
Colorfastness to Actual Laundering After 1 HL, 3 HL as per care label All colors
AATCC 135 /AATCC 150 modified
General Color Change: Grade 4.0 minimum, after 3 HL Self-Staining: Grade 4.5 minimum, after 3 HL Color Staining: Grade 3.0 minimum, after 1 HL Pigment Prints or Pigment Dyed Products Color Change: Grade 3.5 minimum Self-Staining: Grade 4.5 minimum Color Staining: Grade 3.0 minimum Modification = Adding Multifiber to Specimen Rate CC without UV suppressor Pass/Fail. For off white or pastel body fabric shades, rate with UV suppressor – report as Data only
17 Ascena Adult’s Product Testing Manual Version 2.0 March 2014
CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This Manual contains information that is proprietary and confidential, and is intended for use solely by Ascena Retail Group vendors for the production of The Company’s brand merchandise. It may not be used for any other purpose. Any disclosure, copying, distribution or other use of the information contained herein is STRICTLY PROHIBITED. 2013 Ascena Retail Group.
Apparel Fabric & Garment Testing – Denim (continued) PROTOCOL-008
Colorfastness to Crocking – all colors (In case of failure, perform after 1 wash as per care label. Report as Data only)
AATCC 8 or AATCC 116
Dark wash: Indigo, over-dyed, black Dry: Grade 3.5 minimum Wet: Grade 2.0 minimum All other Denim washes: Dry: Grade 3.5 minimum Wet: Grade 2.5 minimum
Colorfastness to Chlorine and Non-Chlorine Bleach – all colors AATCC/ASTM TS-001 Color Change: Grade 4.0 minimum
Formaldehyde Content in Textile JIS L1041 All fabrics/trims that come into contact with skin shall not exceed 75
mg/kg (75 ppm).
Zipper Marking Visual Assessment Approved trim supplier brand marking required Criteria - Pass/Fail
Stretch and Recovery (Bottoms Only with >=2% elastomeric/stretch fiber)
ASTM 3107 or ASTM D6614
Extension : 15% @ 4lbs. /2”Width Maximum Growth: 5% @ 30 min.
Flammability (General Wearing Apparel) Non-exempt Fabrics – perform only if not tested at fabric stage (all colors)
16 CFR 1610 Canada SOR/2011-22
Class I Must Comply with Regulations
LEAD & PHTHALATES TESTING IS REQUIRED ON DECORATIVE TRIM SOLD WITH PRODUCT (WHEN APPLICABLE). REFERENCE ACCESSORIES / FOOTWEAR TEST PROTOCOL METHOD*
18 Ascena Adult’s Product Testing Manual Version 2.0 March 2014
CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This Manual contains information that is proprietary and confidential, and is intended for use solely by Ascena Retail Group vendors for the production of The Company’s brand merchandise. It may not be used for any other purpose. Any disclosure, copying, distribution or other use of the information contained herein is STRICTLY PROHIBITED. 2013 Ascena Retail Group.
Apparel Leather and Suede – Skins & Garment PROTOCOL-009
LEAD & PHTHALATES TESTING IS REQUIRED ON DECORATIVE TRIM SOLD WITH PRODUCT (WHEN APPLICABLE). REFERENCE ACCESSORIES / FOOTWEAR TEST PROTOCOL METHOD*
Submit:two (2) garments for each style in one (1) colorway along with two (2) 10” x 10” samples of leather/suede in each additional colorway. Note: Actual sample quantity required may be communicated separately by TESTING SERVICE PROVIDER if the samples submitted are not large enough to work with. Evaluation Test Methods Requirements Weight ASTM 3776 +/- 5%
Fiber Content- as applicable for linings. AATCC 20/20A For blends, +/- 3% maximum. For single fibers, +/- 0% tolerance
Dimensional Stability to Professional Leather Cleaning (1x)– all colors
Professional Leather Cleaning Method
Length/ Width: Growth: + 2% Shrinkage: - 2% x - 2%
Appearance Evaluation After Professional Leather Cleaning – all colors
ARG-00002 MTHD-APPEARANCE AFTER
CARE 3.5 or Satisfactory
Zipper Marking Visual Assessment Approved trim supplier brand marking required Criteria - Pass/Fail
Flammability (General Wearing Apparel) Non-exempt fabrics only – all colors
16 CFR 1610 Canada SOR/2011-22
Class I Must comply with Regulations
Seam Strength/ Seam Slippage (Woven Garments) Shell
ASTM D1683
30 lbs min
Lining 3.0 oz/yd2 (<101.7 gm/m2) 15 lbs min >3.0oz/yd2 (> 101.7 gm/m2) 20 lbs min
Colorfastness to Crocking AATCC 8/AATCC 116 Shell Dry: 3.0 Wet: 2.0
Lining Dry: 4.0 Wet: 3.0
Colorfastness to Light – Shell only AATCC 16 Option 3 20 AFU’s CC: 3.0
Colorfastness to Perspiration – Linings only AATCC 15 CC: 4.0 CS: 3.0
Documentation review for Species Identification
19 Ascena Adult’s Product Testing Manual Version 2.0 March 2014
CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This Manual contains information that is proprietary and confidential, and is intended for use solely by Ascena Retail Group vendors for the production of The Company’s brand merchandise. It may not be used for any other purpose. Any disclosure, copying, distribution or other use of the information contained herein is STRICTLY PROHIBITED. 2013 Ascena Retail Group.
Accessories – Socks, Tights, Legwarmers, Armwarmers PROTOCOL-010 Submit: a minimum of six (6) pair socks or four (4) pair tights. All colorways must be represented. Note: Actual sample quantity required may be communicated separately by TESTING SERVICE PROVIDER if the samples submitted are not large enough to work with. Evaluation Test Methods Requirements
Fiber Content AATCC 20/20A For blends, +/- 3% maximum
For single fibers, +/- 0% tolerance
Dimensional Stability to Home Laundering – all colors
AATCC 150 modified
Length/ Width: +/- 5%
Modified = adding multi fiber test fabric
Appearance Evaluation After Home Laundering –all colors
ARG-00002-MTHD-APPEARANCE AFTER
CARE 3.5 or Satisfactory
Flammability (General Wearing Apparel) of Non-Exempt Fabrics – all colors
16 CFR 1610 Canada SOR/2011-22
Class I Must comply with Regulations
Vertical Wicking of Textiles - claim regarding absorbency or wicking
ARG-00004-MTHD VERTICAL WICKING 7 cm A/20 minutes min.
Colorfastness to Crocking AATCC 8/AATCC 116 Dry: 4.0 Wet: 3.0
Colorfastness to Chlorine and Non-Chlorine Bleach – all colors AATCC/ASTM TS-001 Color Change: Grade 4.0 minimum
LEAD & PHTHALATES TESTING IS REQUIRED ON DECORATIVE TRIM SOLD WITH PRODUCT (WHEN APPLICABLE). REFERENCE ACCESSORIES / FOOTWEAR TEST PROTOCOL METHOD*
20 Ascena Adult’s Product Testing Manual Version 2.0 March 2014
CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This Manual contains information that is proprietary and confidential, and is intended for use solely by Ascena Retail Group vendors for the production of The Company’s brand merchandise. It may not be used for any other purpose. Any disclosure, copying, distribution or other use of the information contained herein is STRICTLY PROHIBITED. 2013 Ascena Retail Group.
Accessories - Fashion Scarves, Hats, Gloves, Cold Weather Scarves PROTOCOL-011
Submit: three (3) items in one (1) colorway. If flammability and/or lead testing is required send one (1) item each additional colorway. Note: Actual sample quantity required may be communicated separately by TESTING SERVICE PROVIDER if the samples submitted are not large enough to work with. Evaluation Test Methods Requirements
Fiber Content AATCC 20/20A
For blends, +/- 3% maximum. Report fiber content as percentage of whole for knit hats, gloves. For single fibers, +/- 0% tolerance
Dimensional Stability to Home Laundering – one color adequate
AATCC 150 modifed
Scarves: +/- 6% All Other Products: +/- 5% Modified = adding multi fiber test fabric
Appearance Evaluation After Home Laundering ARG-00002-MTHD-
APPEARANCE AFTER CARE
3.5 or Satisfactory
Colorfastness to Actual Laundering After 1 HL, 3 HL as per care label All colors
AATCC 150 modified
General Color Change: Grade 4.0 minimum, after 3 HL Self-Staining: Grade 4.5 minimum, after 3 HL Color Staining: Grade 3.0 minimum, after 1 HL Pigment Prints or Pigment Dyed Products Color Change: Grade 3.5 minimum Self-Staining: Grade 4.5 minimum Color Staining: Grade 3.0 minimum Modification = Adding Multifiber to Specimen Rate CC without UV suppressor Pass/Fail. For off white or pastel body fabric shades, rate with UV suppressor – report as Data only
Colorfastness to Crocking – all colors AATCC 8/AATCC 116 Dry: 4.0 Wet: 3.0
Colorfastness to Chlorine and Non-Chlorine Bleach – all colors AATCC/ASTM TS-001 Color Change: Grade 4.0 minimum
Flammability (General Wearing Apparel) of Non-Exempt Fabrics for scarves, only – all colors
16 CFR 1610 Canada SOR/2011-22
Class I Must comply with Regulations
LEAD & PHTHALATES TESTING IS REQUIRED ON DECORATIVE TRIM SOLD WITH PRODUCT (WHEN APPLICABLE). REFERENCE ACCESSORIES / FOOTWEAR TEST PROTOCOL METHOD*
21 Ascena Adult’s Product Testing Manual Version 2.0 March 2014
CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This Manual contains information that is proprietary and confidential, and is intended for use solely by Ascena Retail Group vendors for the production of The Company’s brand merchandise. It may not be used for any other purpose. Any disclosure, copying, distribution or other use of the information contained herein is STRICTLY PROHIBITED. 2013 Ascena Retail Group.
Accessories - Belts, Back Pack, Soft-Sided Tote, Handbag, Wallet, Clutches, Coin Purse, Travel Bags PROTOCOL-012
Submit: Belt Testing: Send minimum of six (6) bulk production units if surface coating/printing is present. Back Pack/Handbags/Totes/Wallets/Clutches etc: Submit six – ten (6-10), depending on size and/or amount of surface coating. If no coating is present, send three (3) bulk production units. Include all colorways. Note: Actual sample quantity required may be communicated separately by TESTING SERVICE PROVIDER if the samples submitted are not large enough to work with. Evaluation Test Methods Requirements Total Lead Content
CPSC-CH-E1001-08.1 CPSC-CH-E1002-08.1 CPSC-CH-E1003-09.1
Products shall comply with the following requirements, as applicable: 1. All accessible components in wallets, purses, handbags, clutches and totes, footwear and belts shall comply with the following limits (a),(b),(c) and (d): a. Paints and surface coatings shall not exceed 90 ppm (0.009%) total lead content. b. PVC components/vinyl/faux leather accessible to the consumer touch, shall not exceed 200 ppm (0.020%) total lead content. c. Leather components shall not exceed 300 ppm (0.030%) total lead content. Materials or components other than (a)-(c) shall not exceed 300 ppm (0.030%) total lead content. Compositing of up to 3 colors/ materials is acceptable for Lead in Substrates (including metals) and Lead in Surface Coatings.
Requirement (1) is not applicable to glass, ceramic and crystal such as cubic zirconia (CZ), glass or rhinestones – Legal Counsel to be consulted. Materials understood to be exempt for Prop 65 but not for products under CPSIA.
Phthalates Content
CA Proposition 65 (CGC-10-497729 & CGC-10-498981)
CPSC-CH-C1001.09.3
Product shall not contain more than 0.1% (1000 ppm) of each of DEHP, BBP and DBP in the following materials: PVC, soft plastic, vinyl, and synthetic leather substrates, decals and attachments are included.
Applicable to all accessible components in the as received state. Belts Colorfastness to Crocking (Face and Back) All other Items Face Only
AATCC 8/ AATCC 116
Belts: Dry: 3.5 All other Items: Dry: 3.5 Wet: 2.5
Strap Attachment Items with straps only
ASTM D5034 25 lbs minimum
22 Ascena Adult’s Product Testing Manual Version 2.0 March 2014
CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This Manual contains information that is proprietary and confidential, and is intended for use solely by Ascena Retail Group vendors for the production of The Company’s brand merchandise. It may not be used for any other purpose. Any disclosure, copying, distribution or other use of the information contained herein is STRICTLY PROHIBITED. 2013 Ascena Retail Group.
Footwear PROTOCOL-013 Submit: three – six (3-6) pairs. Note: Actual sample quantity required may be communicated separately by TESTING SERVICE PROVIDER if the samples submitted are not large enough to work with.Evaluation Test Methods Requirements Total Lead Content
CPSC-CH-E1001-08.1 CPSC-CH-E1002-08.1 CPSC-CH-E1003-09.1
Products shall comply with the following requirements, as applicable: 1. All accessible components in wallets, purses, handbags, clutches and totes, footwear and belts shall comply with the following limits (a),(b),(c) and (d): a. Paints and surface coatings shall not exceed 90 ppm (0.009%) total lead content. b. PVC components/vinyl/faux leather accessible to the consumer touch, shall not exceed 200 ppm (0.020%) total lead content. c. Leather components shall not exceed 300 ppm (0.030%) total lead content. Materials or components other than (a)-(c) shall not exceed 300 ppm (0.030%) total lead content. Compositing of up to 3 colors/ materials is acceptable for Lead in Substrates (including metals) and Lead in Surface Coatings.
Requirement (1) is not applicable to glass, ceramic and crystal such as cubic zirconia (CZ), glass or rhinestones – Legal Counsel to be consulted. Materials understood to be exempt for Prop 65 but not for products under CPSIA.
Phthalates Content
CA Proposition 65 (CGC-10-497729 & CGC-10-498981)
CPSC-CH-C1001.09.3
Product shall not contain more than 0.1% (1000 ppm) of each of DEHP, BBP and DBP in the following materials: PVC, soft plastic, vinyl, and synthetic leather substrates, decals and attachments are included. Applicable to all accessible components in the as received state.
Heel Attachment Strength ASTM F2232 150 lb
Heel Impact Test Heels 2” or higher BS5131-4.9 No Cracking @ 20,000 cycles
Toplifts – Heel Strength BS5131-5.9 25 lbs
Flex Cracking Resistance EN 17707 Outsole No Cracking @ 50,000 cycles
Sole Bond Peeling BS5131-5.4
Glued On 3.0 N/mm Flex Sole 2.0 N/mm
Strap / Buckle Attachment BS5131-5.11 44 lbs
Ornament Attachment BS5131-5.11 15 lbs / 10 sec.
Slip Resistance ASTM F609
Unscuffed 0.4 Static/0.3 Kinetic Scuffed 0.5 Static /0.4 Kinetic Note: Perform Scuffing when original fails. Report results of both.
Strap Pull Out BS5131-5.11
Rubber Lateral Pull 14lbs Vertical Pull 16lbs Thong 55 lbs Heel Quarter 44 lbs Harachi 22 lbs Strappy Sandal 44 lbs
23 Ascena Adult’s Product Testing Manual Version 2.0 March 2014
CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This Manual contains information that is proprietary and confidential, and is intended for use solely by Ascena Retail Group vendors for the production of The Company’s brand merchandise. It may not be used for any other purpose. Any disclosure, copying, distribution or other use of the information contained herein is STRICTLY PROHIBITED. 2013 Ascena Retail Group.
Zippers PROTOCOL-014 Evaluation Test Methods Requirements Construction Quality General Assessment Open-end zipper must have safety stop Zipper slide must be of locking type Zipper
functions with ease Sharp Points / Sharp Edges CPSC 16 CFR 1500.48-
49 No sharp points or sharp edges allowed
Zipper Strength Testing ASTM D2061 Use below chart for requirements and reference depending on zipper type
Lead Content in Surface Coating . Scrapeable in each color
CPSC-CH-E1003-09.1 .90 ppm (0.009% Total Weight) Composite Testing Permitted
Total Lead in Substrate Material CPSC-CH-E1002-08.3 / CPSC-CH-E1001-08.3
.100 ppm (0.01% Total Weight) Composite Testing Permitted
Phthalates in each plasticized part / material such as PVC, Vinyl, etc.
CPSC-CH-C1001.09.3 .1000 ppm (0.1%)
Zipper Strength Test ASTM D2061
Specification Number & Requirements 1-2 3-4 5-7 (A) 5-7 (B) 8-9 10
Closed Chain Width (inch) 0.125-0.180 0.125-0.180
0.181-0.310
0.181-0.310
0.311-0.390
0.320-0.500
Tape Width (inch) 7/16-9/16 7/16-9/16 9/16-3/4 9/16-3/4 5/8-3/4 3/4-1.0
Chain Crosswise Strength (lbf, min) ASTM D2061; 14.1
Brass / Nickel 66 121 110.3 143 143 165
Aluminum 53 77 77 88 88 110
Plastic 59 59 77 77 110 132
Coiled 66 77 132 154 176 220
Separating Unit Crosswise Strength (lbf, min) ASTM D2061; 30.3
Brass / Nickel 15.4 19.8 22 33 33 48.4
Aluminum 15.4 19.8 26.4 33 33 48.4
Plastic 15.4 19.8 24 26.4 37 48.4
Coiled 15.4 13.2 26.4 33 33 48.4
Single Element Strength (lbs. min) ASTM D2061; 14.2
Brass / Nickel 6.6 12 13.2 17.6 18.7 24.2
Aluminum 5.3 7.7 11 11 12 16.5
Plastic 5.5 5.5 10 10 17.6 19.8
Single Element Slippage (lbs., min.) ASTM D2061; 14.3
Brass / Nickel 5.3 9 9.9 9.9 13.2 18.7
Aluminum 5.3 6 6.2 9.9 12.1 16.5
Plastic 5.3 7.7 11 11 15.4 22
24 Ascena Adult’s Product Testing Manual Version 2.0 March 2014
CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This Manual contains information that is proprietary and confidential, and is intended for use solely by Ascena Retail Group vendors for the production of The Company’s brand merchandise. It may not be used for any other purpose. Any disclosure, copying, distribution or other use of the information contained herein is STRICTLY PROHIBITED. 2013 Ascena Retail Group.
Zippers (continued) PROTOCOL-014
Specification Number & Requirements 1-2 3-4 5-7 (A) 5-7 (B) 8-9 10
Closed Chain Width (inch) 0.125-0.180 0.125-0.180
0.181-0.310
0.181-0.310
0.311-0.390
0.320-0.500
Tape Width (inch) 7/16-9/16 7/16-9/16 9/16-3/4 9/16-3/4 5/8-3/4 3/4-1.0
Slider Lock Hold (lbf, min) ASTM D2061; 87.1
Brass / Nickel 8.4 13.2 13.2 13.2 15.4 15.4
Aluminum 8.4 8.8 13.2 13.2 15.4 15.4
Plastic 5.5 4 7.7 13.2 13.2 15.4
Coiled 4.4 4.4 11 13.2 15.4 15.4
Tab Pull-Off Strength (lbs., min) ASTM D2061; 68.1
Brass / Nickel 22 22 39.6 44 55 66
Aluminum 22 22 39.6 44 55 66
Plastic 22 22 39.6 39.6 44 66
Coiled 17.6 17.6 39.6 44 55 66
Tab Twist-Off Strength (in-lb, min) ASTM D2061; 52.1
Brass / Nickel 4 4 4 4 4 4
Aluminum 4 4 4 4 4 4
Plastic 4 4 4 4 4 4
Coiled 4 4 4 4 4 4
Operability (Open/Close) (lbf, max) ASTM D2062; 16
Brass / Nickel 0.7 0.8 1.1 1.5 1.8 1.8
Aluminum 0.7 0.8 1.1 1.5 1.8 1.8
Plastic 1.1 1.1 1.5 1.5 1.6 1.9
Coiled 1.1 0.9 1.5 1.5 1.6 1.9
Top Stop Strength (lbf, min) ASTM D2061; 22.2
Brass / Nickel 15.4 17.6 22 28.6 33 35
Aluminum 15.4 17.6 22 22 33 35
Plastic 17.6 17.6 22 26.4 33 35
Coiled 15.4 17.6 26.4 28.6 28 35
Bottom Stop Strength (lbf, min) ASTM D2061; 22.5
Brass / Nickel 11 17.6 17.6 22 26.5 33
Aluminum 10 13 19.8 15.4 26.5 33
Plastic 11 11 19.8 22 30 37
Coiled 6.6 11 20 22 30 39.6
25 Ascena Adult’s Product Testing Manual Version 2.0 March 2014
CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This Manual contains information that is proprietary and confidential, and is intended for use solely by Ascena Retail Group vendors for the production of The Company’s brand merchandise. It may not be used for any other purpose. Any disclosure, copying, distribution or other use of the information contained herein is STRICTLY PROHIBITED. 2013 Ascena Retail Group.
Bath, Body, and Cosmetics PROTOCOL-015 Evaluation Test Methods Requirements Scope: This protocol covers nail polish, fake fingernails, fragrance, lotion, bath gel, make up, hair color, hair spray. Submit: Approximately 9 - 12 finished products depending on size or amount necessary to proceed with full testing of each component separately. Note: Actual sample quantity required may be communicated separately by TESTING SERVICE PROVIDER if the samples submitted are not large enough to work with. NOTE: In addition to the below testing, all vendors are responsible for meeting FDA requirements outlined in the Food, Drug & Cosmetic Act (US) and the Health Canada requirements outlined in the Food and Drug Act (Canada).
LABELING
Cosmetic Ingredients and Labeling Review
FDA 21 CFR 701 & 740 Cosmetic Labeling and FDA 21 CFR 700 and 73, 74 & 82 / US
FDA, Food Drug & Cosmetics Regulations (21 CFR 73, 74, 81, 82, 250, & 700 to
740) / Health Canada Guidelines - Labeling
of Cosmetics
All colorants and ingredients of cosmetic products must comply with U.S. Food and Drug Administration, Food Drug and Cosmetic Regulations. Ingredients must be listed on all product using recognized names from the International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients (INCI) system as found in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook and in accordance to the Cosmetic Ingredient Hotlist
Country of Origin Marking
Marking of Imported Goods Memo D11-3-1 / Country of Origin /
19 CFR 134.11 / Marking of imported goods order, C.R.C.,
c. 535 / Canada Customs Tariff,
Marking of Imported Goods Regulations,
SOR-94-10
Must Comply with Regulations. Rate as Data.
26 Ascena Adult’s Product Testing Manual Version 2.0 March 2014
CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This Manual contains information that is proprietary and confidential, and is intended for use solely by Ascena Retail Group vendors for the production of The Company’s brand merchandise. It may not be used for any other purpose. Any disclosure, copying, distribution or other use of the information contained herein is STRICTLY PROHIBITED. 2013 Ascena Retail Group.
Bath, Body, and Cosmetics (continued) PROTOCOL-015 Evaluation Test Methods Requirements Analytical
Mercury 21 CFR 700.13 /
Cosmetic Regulations C.R.C., c. 869
Less than 1ppm mercury in cosmetics intended for use in any area other than around the eye or less than 65ppm mercury for cosmetics intended for use only in the area of the eye. In lieu of testing, documentation may be submitted if dated within 1 year.
Total Heavy Metal Contents in Cosmetics
Canada Guidance on Heavy Metal Impurities in Cosmetics / NHPD
Compendium of Monographs
Cosmetic products shall not have total heavy metal contents exceed the following limits: Lead ≤ 10 ppm Arsenic ≤ 3 ppm Cadmium ≤ 3 ppm Mercury ≤ 3 ppm Antimony ≤ 3 ppm
Total Lead Content in Cosmetics and Cosmetic Accessories
Alameda Superior Court, 01-032306, RG
07321854 and H217587 / EPA 3051A (modified) /
EPA 3050B (modified)
[Cosmetic and Cosmetic Accessories] All adult cosmetic and cosmetic accessories shall not exceed the following limit: a. Lip/mouth cosmetics shall not exceed 0.35 ppm total lead content. b. All other cosmetic items shall not exceed 0.5 ppm total lead content. Note: - Applicable to cosmetics, including but not limited to lipstick/liner/gloss, eye shadow/liner, facial powders, blush, mascara, pencils, make up creams/gels, foundation and nail polish. - Applicable to accessories, including but not limited to cosmetic brushes, blusher tools, applicators and mirrors. - Excluding products under the FDA definition, including but not limited to lotion, body wash, body tattoo, adhesive fake eyelash and eyelash glue.
Total Lead Content in Surface Coatings AOAC 974.01
(modified)
All accessible surface coatings in the as received state on the item outside of the scope of CCPSA shall not contain lead or lead components in which the lead content is in excess of 0.009% (90ppm) of the weight of the total content. Report actual results or include data table within report. Component testing is allowed. Composite up to 3 colors are allowed.
USP 51 Preservative Effectiveness - doc review
USP <51>
Shall meet requirements per product type. In lieu of testing, documentation may be submitted if dated within 1 year.
USP 61 (Harmonized) - doc review USP <61> / PCPC
[CTFA (PCPC) Items] Shall meet requirements per product type. In lieu of testing, documentation may be submitted if dated within 1 year.
USP 62 (Harmonized) - doc review USP <62> / PCPC
[CTFA (PCPC) Items] Shall meet requirements per product type. In lieu of testing, documentation may be submitted if dated within 1 year.
27 Ascena Adult’s Product Testing Manual Version 2.0 March 2014
CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This Manual contains information that is proprietary and confidential, and is intended for use solely by Ascena Retail Group vendors for the production of The Company’s brand merchandise. It may not be used for any other purpose. Any disclosure, copying, distribution or other use of the information contained herein is STRICTLY PROHIBITED. 2013 Ascena Retail Group.
Candles and Candle Holders PROTOCOL-016
Submit: approximately 4 finished products depending on size or amount necessary to proceed with full testing of each component separately. Note: actual sample quantity required may be communicated separately by TESTING SERVICE PROVIDER if the samples submitted are not large enough to work with. Evaluation Test Methods Requirements
Candle - FPLA 16 CFR 501.7 The candles must be labeled with count and length or height in inches to meet the requirements of FPLA.
Consumer Chemicals and Containers Regulations
SOR/2001-269
The manufacturer or importer must provide completed CCCR Submission Requirements Form certifying compliance or non-applicability with these requirements. If document is not obtained after one business day and one email attempt the submitted sample will be sent for outsource testing with CAS and ingredient list for intended liquid. Reject if no Form or incomplete Form is received.
Country of Origin
19 CFR 134.11Canada Customs Tariff,
Marking of Imported Goods Regulations,
SOR-94-10 Marking of Imported Goods Memorandum
D11-3-1
Must Comply with Regulations
Labeling Review
Visual Assessment / ASTM F2058
section 6.3 (modified) / ASTM F2601 section 5.4.3.1 (3) / Canadian
proposed candle regulation section 3
Use/Care instructions and/or Warning/Cautionary labeling that are clear and understandable shall be provided in English.
UPLR / FPLA / Consumer Packing and Labeling Act and Regulations
NIST handbook 130 part IV A Section 3, 5 & 6
16 CFR 500.4 / 16 CFR 500.5 /
16 CFR 500/ Consumer Packing and Labeling Act
and Regulations C.R.C.,c.417 section 6
Must Comply with Regulations
Flammability / Safety
Candle Holder – Flammability Test
Flame impingement shall be 5 minutes. Shall not crack or break exposing a sharp point / edge or expose flame to the outside of the holder. Shall not ignite or create hazardous conditions. Holder damage (Non-hazardous) is acceptable.
Flammability of Solids 16 CFR 1500.3 (c) (6) (vi) / 16 CFR 1500.44
(modified)
Shall not exceed the maximum allowable limit of no greater than 0.1 inches per second. All surfaces of each different material on candleholders shall be tested for flammability of solids. Modification = Test all surface of each material rather than test on major axis only
Safety Requirements for Stability ASTM F2601-12
section 4.4 Shall not tip over when placed on a minimum 10 degree incline.
28 Ascena Adult’s Product Testing Manual Version 2.0 March 2014
CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This Manual contains information that is proprietary and confidential, and is intended for use solely by Ascena Retail Group vendors for the production of The Company’s brand merchandise. It may not be used for any other purpose. Any disclosure, copying, distribution or other use of the information contained herein is STRICTLY PROHIBITED. 2013 Ascena Retail Group.
Candles and Candle Holders (continued) PROTOCOL-016
Analytical
Lead Content in Glass and/or Metal Tea Light Votives, Candle Holders and Home Decorative Products
Alameda Superior Court, HG-04-183355
/ NIOSH method 9100 (modified) / EPA
3050B (modified)
[Glass and / or Metal Decorative Mug, Tea Light Votives, Candle Holders and Home Decorative Products] Product made with glass and metal shall comply the following requirements: Must meet (a) & (c), or (b) & (c). a. The metal portions shall produce no more than 5.0 micrograms of lead, in Ghost WipeTM test, or b. Each metal (such as solder and came) shall not exceed 0.1% (1000 ppm) total lead content, and c. If product has exterior decorations or markings, shall have no more than 5.0 micrograms of lead, using a Ghost WipeTM test applied to all colored decorated exterior surface and metal portions. Products exceed either the limits shall utilize a warning statement. Please reference to image appendix for labeling requirement and the warning statement. Note: - Applicable to products that are primarily made of glass and / or metal. It does not include wooden picture frame. - Decorations include color on top of the base material.
Lead in Metal Wick - Metal-Cored Wicks 16 CFR
1500.17(a)(13)
The outer container or wrapper of candles with metal-cored wicks (Manufactured or imported on or after Oct. 15, 2003) must be labeled “Conforms to 16 CFR 1500.17(a)(13).”
Total Lead Content in Candle Orange Superior
Court, 799222 / EPA 3050B (modified)
No lead core wick is allowed.
Total Lead Content in Surface Coatings AOAC 974.02
(modified)
All accessible surface coatings in the as received state shall not contain lead or lead components in which the lead content is in excess of 0.009% (90ppm) of the weight of the total content. Report actual results or include data table within report. Component testing is allowed. Compositing up to 3 like materials is allowed.
Toxicological Risk Assessment - doc review
Canada Consumer Product Safety Act (CCPSA) / Canada
Consumer Chemicals and Containers
Regulations (SOR/2001-269) Part
1 and 2
Product shall be evaluated for the potential to be an acute toxic, a skin irritant, eye irritant or corrosive. Labeling review is not included. Toxicity Risk Assessment shall be conducted for the following components: All liquids, pastes, putties, gels and powders regardless of claim Other materials bearing a "NON-TOXIC" claim on samples and/or its packaging In lieu of testing, test report can be submitted if dated within 5 years.
29 Ascena Adult’s Product Testing Manual Version 2.0 March 2014
CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This Manual contains information that is proprietary and confidential, and is intended for use solely by Ascena Retail Group vendors for the production of The Company’s brand merchandise. It may not be used for any other purpose. Any disclosure, copying, distribution or other use of the information contained herein is STRICTLY PROHIBITED. 2013 Ascena Retail Group.
Sunglasses PROTOCOL-017 Submit: Approximately 3 finished products depending on size or amount necessary to proceed with full testing of each component separately. Note: actual sample quantity required may be communicated separately by TESTING SERVICE PROVIDER if the samples submitted are not large enough to work with. Evaluation Test Methods Requirements
Performance Tests
Impact Resistance 21 CFR 801.410 / ANSI Z80.3-2010
Section 4.2
[Applicable for nonprescription sunglasses] 5/8-inch (0.56 ounce) steel ball weighing is dropped from a height of 50 inches upon the horizontal upper surface of the lens. Lens shall not fracture, crack or release any material. In lieu of testing, test report can be submitted – must be current within one year.
30 Ascena Adult’s Product Testing Manual Version 2.0 March 2014
CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This Manual contains information that is proprietary and confidential, and is intended for use solely by Ascena Retail Group vendors for the production of The Company’s brand merchandise. It may not be used for any other purpose. Any disclosure, copying, distribution or other use of the information contained herein is STRICTLY PROHIBITED. 2013 Ascena Retail Group.
Jewelry & Hair Accessories PROTOCOL-018 Scope: this protocol addresses jewelry, watches, hair accessories, key chains and charms and similar products. Submit: approximately 15 – 20 finished products depending on size or amount necessary to proceed with full testing. The number of samples that are required for testing varies. Note: The following is a general guideline. For more precise guidance, contact the lab prior to submitting samples. Evaluation Test Methods Requirements Analytical
Nickel in Metal Materials EN 1811:2011 / EN
12472:2005+A1:2009
a. Post assemblies for jewelry which are inserted into pierced ears and other pierced parts of the human body shall not exceed 0.11 µg/cm2/week.
b. All other jewelry intended to come into direct and prolonged contact with the skin shall not exceed 0.28 µg/cm2/week.
Note: Applies to Sensitive Skin Claims Only. Items covered include: components of earrings (other than post assemblies), necklaces, bracelets, chains, anklets, finger rings,wrist-watch cases, watch straps and tighteners.
Report actual results or include data table within report.
Total Lead Content in Body Piercing Jewelry
California Law, Health and Safety Codes section 25214.1-25214.4.2 / EPA
3050B (modified) / EPA 3051A (modified) / EPA 3052 (modified)
Product shall be made of one of the following materials.
Recommend all products shall provide documentation or material bill for material identification.
a. Surgical implant stainless steel b. Surgical implant grades of titanium c. Niobium (Nb) d. Solid 14 karat or higher white or yellow nickel-free gold e. Solid platinum f. Dense low porosity plastic (e.g., Tygon or PTFE) with no intentionally added (less than 200 ppm) lead
Products must comply with the material and lead requirements. Note: - Accessible materials should be tested. - For component test together with CPSIA, composite up to 3 like materials is allowed, transfer the CPSIA result here for compliance.
Total cadmium content
Alameda Superior Court, RG-10-
514803/California Law, Health and
Safety Codes section 25214.1-
25214.4.2/EPA 3050B modified / EPA 3051A modified / EPA3052 modified / CPSD-AN-
00108-MTHD
Product shall not exceed 75 ppm (0.0075%) total cadmium content. Note: -Accessible materials should be tested. -Actual testing will be conducted on all substrates, plasticizer print and scrapable surface coatings. -Composite testing of up to 3 components -Textile & natural material are exempt from testing. Report actual results or include data table within report.
31 Ascena Adult’s Product Testing Manual Version 2.0 March 2014
CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This Manual contains information that is proprietary and confidential, and is intended for use solely by Ascena Retail Group vendors for the production of The Company’s brand merchandise. It may not be used for any other purpose. Any disclosure, copying, distribution or other use of the information contained herein is STRICTLY PROHIBITED. 2013 Ascena Retail Group.
Jewelry & Hair Accessories (continued) PROTOCOL-018
Total Lead Content in Jewelry
Alameda Superior Court, RG 10-545680 and RG 10-545687 /
EPA 3050B (modified) / EPA 3051A
(modified) / EPA 3052 (modified)
Components shall comply with the following limits (a) and (b): a. Paints and surface coatings shall not exceed 90 ppm (0.009%) total lead content. b. Substrates shall not exceed 200 ppm (0.020%) total lead content. Recommend all products shall provide documentation or material bill for material identification. Products must comply with the lead requirements. Note: - Including anklets, arm cuffs, bracelets, charms, brooches, chains, crowns, cuff links, watches (excluding the timepiece itself if removable), decorated hair accessories, earrings, necklaces, pins, rings; similar clothing or shoe ornaments which are detachable; and body piercing jewelry or any bead, chain, link, pendant, or other component of such an ornament. - Accessible materials should be tested. - For component test together with CPSIA, composite up to 3 colors / like materials (except metals) is allowed, transfer the CPSIA result here for compliance - Non-suspect materials, except leather, as defined by the Consumer Products Safety Commission in 16 CFR 1500.91 (d) and (e) will not be tested. Vendor is responsible for compliance of these materials.
32 Ascena Adult’s Product Testing Manual Version 2.0 March 2014
CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This Manual contains information that is proprietary and confidential, and is intended for use solely by Ascena Retail Group vendors for the production of The Company’s brand merchandise. It may not be used for any other purpose. Any disclosure, copying, distribution or other use of the information contained herein is STRICTLY PROHIBITED. 2013 Ascena Retail Group.
ADULT CHECK LIST
Test Parameter
Woven-Fabric Testing
Knit-Fabric Testing
Woven-Garment Testing
Knit-Garment Testing
Intimate Apparel & Sleepwear
Swimwear, Cover-ups
Sweaters Denim Leather &
Suede
Fiber Content (all blends) (for garments, only perform if not done
on fabric stage) ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●
Weight– all colors ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●
Dimensional Stability to Home Laundering (3x) or Dimensional
Stability to Dry-cleaning (1x) – all colors ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●
Appearance Evaluation after Home Laundering/Dry-cleaning– all colors
● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●
Thread Count
Yarn Size
Skewness in Fabric/Garment Twist ● ● ● ● ● ●
Tensile Strength ● ●
Tear Strength ● ●
Bursting Strength ●
Seam Strength/Seam Slippage ● ● ● ● ●
Seam Stretchability ● ● ●
Stretch & recovery # # #
Hook & eye Tension # #
pH ● ●
Water Resistance # #
Spray Test # #
Drying Rate # # #
Vertical Wicking # # #
Air Permeability #
Colorfastness to Home Laundering (3x) – all colors
● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●
33 Ascena Adult’s Product Testing Manual Version 2.0 March 2014
CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This Manual contains information that is proprietary and confidential, and is intended for use solely by Ascena Retail Group vendors for the production of The Company’s brand merchandise. It may not be used for any other purpose. Any disclosure, copying, distribution or other use of the information contained herein is STRICTLY PROHIBITED. 2013 Ascena Retail Group.
Test Parameter
Woven-Fabric Testing
Knit-Fabric Testing
Woven-Garment Testing
Knit-Garment Testing
Intimate Apparel & Sleepwear
Swimwear, Cover-ups
Sweaters Denim Leather &
Suede
Colorfastness to Dry-cleaning (1cycle) – all colors (if dry clean)
● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●
Colorfastness to Crocking – all colors ● ● # # ● ● ● ● ●
Colorfastness to Light (swimwear only) – all colors
● ●
Colorfastness to Chlorine & Non-Chlorine Bleach – all colors
● ● # # ● ● ● ●
Colorfastness to Sea Water (swimwear only) – all colors
●
Colorfastness to Chlorinated Pool Water – all colors (swimwear only) ●
Colorfastness to Perspiration (Linings Only)
# # ● ●
Burnt Gas ●
Strap Attachment Strength ●
ICI Pilling ●
Zipper Identification ● ● ● ● ● ● ●
General Wearing Apparel Flammability (on-exempt fabrics) – all colors
● ●
● ● ● ● ●
Total Lead Content in Paint / Surface Coatings – all colors
# # # # # # # # #
Total Lead Content in Substrate Material– all colors
# # # # # # # # #
Formaldehyde ● ●
+Doc Review for Species ●
34 Ascena Adult’s Product Testing Manual Version 2.0 March 2014
CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This Manual contains information that is proprietary and confidential, and is intended for use solely by Ascena Retail Group vendors for the production of The Company’s brand merchandise. It may not be used for any other purpose. Any disclosure, copying, distribution or other use of the information contained herein is STRICTLY PROHIBITED. 2013 Ascena Retail Group.
ADULT ADDITIONAL COLOR CHECKLIST
Test Parameter Fabric Garment Sweaters Denim Swimwear Socks Scarves
Weight– all colors ● ● ● ● ●
General Wearing Apparel Flammability (on-exempt fabrics) – all colors
● ● ● ● ● ● ●
Dimensional Stability to Home Laundering (3x) or Dimensional
Stability to Dry-cleaning (1x) – all colors ● ● ● ● ● ●
Appearance Evaluation after Home Laundering/Dry-cleaning– all colors
● ● ● ● ● ●
Colorfastness to Home Laundering (3x) – all colors
● ● ● ● ● ●
Colorfastness to Dry-cleaning (1cycle) – all colors (if dry clean)
● ● ● ● ●
Colorfastness to Crocking – all colors ● ● ● ● ● ● ●
Colorfastness to Chlorine & Non-Chlorine Bleach – all colors
● ● ● ● ● ●
pH ●
Colorfastness to Light (swimwear only) – all colors
#
●
Colorfastness to Sea Water (swimwear only) – all colors
#
●
Colorfastness to Chlorinated Pool Water – all colors (swimwear only)
#
●
35 Ascena Adult’s Product Testing Manual Version 2.0 March 2014
CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This Manual contains information that is proprietary and confidential, and is intended for use solely by Ascena Retail Group vendors for the production of The Company’s brand merchandise. It may not be used for any other purpose. Any disclosure, copying, distribution or other use of the information contained herein is STRICTLY PROHIBITED. 2013 Ascena Retail Group.
ADULT ACCESSORIES CHECK LIST
Test Parameter
Socks, Tights, Legwarmers, Armwarmers
Scarves, Hats, Gloves, Cold Weather
Scarves
Belts, Travel Bags,
Handbags
Footwear Zippers Jewelry,
Hair Accessories
Sunglasses Bath, Body
& Cosmetics
Candles & Candle Holders
Fiber Content (all blends) ● ●
Dimensional Stability to Home Laundering (3x) all colors
● ●
Appearance Evaluation after Home Laundering– all colors
● ●
Vertical Wicking #
Colorfastness to Home Laundering (3x) – all colors
●
Colorfastness to Crocking – all colors ● ● ●
Colorfastness to Chlorine & Non-Chlorine Bleach – all colors
●
Strap Attachment Strength ●
Heel Attachment ●
Heel Impact ●
Toplift-Heel Strength ●
Flex Cracking ●
Sole Bond Peeling ●
Strap/Buckle Attachment ●
Ornament Attachment ●
Slip Resistance ●
Strap Pull Out ●
Construction Quality Assessment ●
Impact Resistance ●
Sharp Points / Edges ●
Zipper Strength ●
Labeling ● ●
Special Markings
36 Ascena Adult’s Product Testing Manual Version 2.0 March 2014
CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This Manual contains information that is proprietary and confidential, and is intended for use solely by Ascena Retail Group vendors for the production of The Company’s brand merchandise. It may not be used for any other purpose. Any disclosure, copying, distribution or other use of the information contained herein is STRICTLY PROHIBITED. 2013 Ascena Retail Group.
Test Parameter
Socks, Tights, Legwarmers, Armwarmers
Scarves, Hats, Gloves, Cold Weather
Scarves
Belts, Travel Bags,
Handbags
Footwear Zippers Jewelry,
Hair Accessories
Sunglasses Bath, Body
& Cosmetics
Candles & Candle Holders
General Wearing Apparel Flammability (on-exempt fabrics) – all colors
● ●
Total Lead Content in Paint / Surface Coatings – all colors
# # # # # # # #
Total Lead Content in Substrate Material– all colors
# # # # # # #
#
Cadmium content #
Phthalates # # # # #
Nickel #
Mercury #
Total Heavy Metals in Cosmetics #
Total Lead in Cosmetics #
Candle FPLA ●
Consumer Chemicals & Container Regulations
●
COO ●
Candle Holder Flammability ●
Flammability of Solids ●
Safety Requirements for Stability ●
Lead Content in Glass, Metal Tea Light Votive, Candle Holders & Home
Decorative Products
#
Total Lead Content in Candle #
Lead in Metal Wick #
Toxicological Risk Assessment #
● = test is required
#= as applicable