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March - April 2014
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VVeenneezziiaa
Family-friendly Venice
Venice's Sestieri
TTaakkee aa ssaannddoolloo rrii ddee
Venice Lagoon islands
DDaann ii ee ll ee RRii ccaappii ttoo
GGiioorrgg ii oo BBoommbbii eerrii
Traditional rowing boats
Secret Venice
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CCaasstteell ll oo wwii tthh yyoouurr kkii ddss
SSaann FFrraanncceessccoo ddeell DDeesseerrttoo
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VVeenn ii ccee bbaacckkssttaaggee
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WWiikkiimmeedd ii aa CCoommmmoonnss
SSUUMMMMAARRYY
0044 0088
11 00
11 6611 44
2222
04
08
14
22
16
10
Exhibitions
More than 30 art
exhibitions not to miss
See you in Venice
Find out what's on
in Venice
Family Venice
Discover Castel lo
with your kids
Lagoon Islands
San Francesco del
Deserto
Secret Venice
Venice backstage
Stones of Venice
Venetian traditions
& curiosities
Fiabedalmondo
from 21st february to 23rd april − Centro
Culturale Candiani
www.candiani.comune.venezia.it
Lefantastichestoriedeinostriarchivi
21st february − Soprintendenza
archivistica per il Veneto
www.save.archivi.beniculturali.it
Sport,sportiviegiochiolimpicinell’Europainguerra
until 28th february − Museo Ebraico
www.museoebraico.it
TeatrodiDuseeD'Annunzio
until al 28th february − Fondazione
Giorgio Cini
www.cini.it
SaloneNauticoInternazionalediVenezia
4,5,6/11,12,13 march − Parco San Giuliano
www.festivaldelmare.com
Imeritidelledonne.Mostradimanoscritti
from 7th march to 6th june − Palazzo
Mocenigo
www.mocenigo.visitmuve.it
PrimaveraaPalazzoFortuny
from 8th march to 14th july − Museo
Fortuny
www.fortuny.visitmuve.it
PURIMdiMichalMeronfrom 9th march al 27th april − Museo
Ebraico
www.museoebraico.it
AtelierBevilacquaLaMasa2013Mostrafinale
until 9th march − Gallerie di Piazza San
Marco
www.bevilacqualamasa.it
HarisEpaminonda.ChapterIV
from 15th march to 18th may − Fondazione
Querini Stampalia
www.querinistampalia.org
Visioniperuninventariounamappadelnavegarpittoresco
dal 21 marzo al 21 aprile − Galleria
Bevilacqua La Masa
www.bevilacqualamasa.it
Tiziano,unautoritrattodal 22 marzo al 25 maggio − Museo Correr
www.correr.visitmuve.it
Unaregioneeisuoicampi
fino al 23 marzo − Ikona Gallery
www.ikonavenezia.com
MostrafotograficaMarioLasalandra
fino al 23 marzo − Centro Culturale
Candiani
www.candiani.comune.venezia.it
GreenMobilityShow
EE xx hh ii bb ii tt ii oo nn ss ii nn VVee nn ii cc ee
28 e 29 marzo−Venezia Terminal Passeggeri
www.vtpevents.it
Sorpreseeineditidal 30 marzo al 1 maggio − Sale
Monumentali della Libreria Sansoviniana
www.marciana.venezia.sbn.it
Unaregioneeisuoicampifino al 31 marzo − Ikona Gallery
www.ikonavenezia.com
ItesoridelGhettofino al 31 marzo − Galleria G. Franchetti
alla Ca' d'Oro
www.cadoro.org
LeStanzedelVetrodal 5 aprile al 3 agosto − Fondazione
Giorgio Cini
www.cini.it
IrvingPenndal 13 aprile − Palazzo Grassi
www.palazzograssi.it
L'illusionedella lucedal 13 aprile − Palazzo Grassi
www.palazzograssi.it
L'Imperodella lucefino al 14 aprile − Collezione Peggy
Guggenheim
www.guggenheimvenice.it
MariaGraziaRosin.Merlettofrattale
dal 18 aprile al 27 luglio − Museo del
Merletto
www.museomerletto.visitmuve.it
UnautoritrattodiMiroslavKraljević
dal 18 aprile al 15 giugno − Ca' Pesaro
www.capesaro.visitmuve.it
KidsCreativeLab
dal 25 aprile al 4 maggio − Collezione
Peggy Guggenheim
www.guggenheimvenice.it
ViktorPopkov19321974
fino al 27 aprile − Ca' Foscari Esposizioni
www.unive.it
IlSanGiovanninodiÙbeda
fino al 27 aprile − Palazzo Grimani
www.palazzogrimani.org
IDonidiShahAbbasfino al 27 aprile − Palazzo Ducale
www.palazzoducale.visitmuve.it
ArchividelVedutismofino al 28 aprile − Ca' Rezzonico
www.carezzonico.visitmuve.it
DialoghiamericaniGiuseppePanzadiBiumo
fino al 4 maggio − Ca' Pesaro
www.capesaro.visitmuve.it
Genesifino al 11 maggio − Casa dei Tre Oci
www.treoci.org
FrancoFontana.FullColor
fino al 18 maggio − Istituto Veneto di
Scienze, Lettere ed Arti
www.istitutoveneto.it
L’immaginedellacittàeuropea…
fino al 18 maggio − Museo Correr
www.correr.visitmuve.it
Renaissancefino al 25 maggio − Espace Louis Vuitton
www.visitmuve.it
DiverseManiere:
Piranesi,FantasyandExcess
fino al 31 maggio − Fondazione Giorgio Cini
www.cini.it
Léger19101930fino al 2 giugno − Museo Correr
www.correr.visitmuve.it
IlSerenissimoprincipefino al 30 giugno − Palazzo Ducale
www.palazzoducale.visitmuve.it
PrimaMateriafino al 31 dicembre − Punta della Dogana
www.palazzograssi.it/it/mostre/prima
materia
Madonne.Lestatuevestitedellavergine
fino al 31 dicembre − Museo Diocesano
d'Arte Sacra
www.veneziaupt.org
Exhibitions
More than 30 art
exhibitions not to miss
See you in Venice
Find out what's on
in Venice
Family Venice
Discover Castel lo
with your kids
Lagoon Islands
San Francesco del
Deserto
Secret Venice
Venice backstage
Stones of Venice
Venetian traditions
& curiosities
L'Operaparla
5, 12, 19, 26 march − Punta della Dogana
www.palazzograssi.itIncontriconlaStagioneSinfonica5,12,14,16,19,23 march − Conservatorio
Benedetto Marcello
www.conseve.netCompositori alfemminile7 march − Palazzetto Bru Zane
www.bruzane.comVisiteGuidateallaCa'D'oro22,23,29,30 march − Galleria Giorgio
Franchetti alla Ca'D'oro
www.cadoro.orgMenageatrois/PucciniinJazz9 march − Centro Culturale Candiani
www.candiani.comune.venezia.itSamueleBersaniNuvolaNumeroNove9 march − Teatro Toniolo
culturaspettacolovenezia.itWhatageareyouacting?13 march − Teatro Fondamente Nuove
www.teatrofondamentanuove.itFire!15 march − Teatro Fondamente Nuove
www.teatrofondamentanuove.itGuidaaiGiardinidiVenezia15 march − Museo di Storia Naturale
www.msn.visitmuve.itDonByronQuartet16 march − Centro Culturale Candiani
www.candiani.comune.venezia.itGusto inScena16, 17, 18 march − Scuola Grande San
Giovanni Evangelista
www.gustoinscena.itDivertiamociateatrofino to 16 march − Teatro Momo
www.culturaspettacolovenezia.itGiornataInternazionaledellaPoesia21 march − Ptoazzo Grimani
www.ptoazzogrimani.orgTriiconpianoforte22 march − Palazzetto Bru Zane
www.bruzane.comVisiteguidategratuite22 march e 12 april − Palazzo Loredan
www.istitutoveneto.itConcertiPalazzoBruZanefino to 22 march − Palazzetto Bru Zane
www.bruzane.comDelittoaregolad'arte23 march − Palazzo Ductoe
www.ptoazzoducale.visitmuve.itRalphAlessiBaidaQuartet24 march − Centro Culturtoe Candiani
www.candiani.comune.venezia.itLeMappedelTesoro27 march − Biblioteca Nazionale Marciana
www.marciana.venezia.sbn.itIosonodanzafino to 27 march − Teatro Toniolo
culturaspettacolovenezia.itElegyforYoungLovers27, 29 march e 2, 4, 6 april − Teatro
Malibran
www.teatrolafenice.itGreenMobilityShow28, 29 march − Terminal 103
www.vtpevents.it/green.html
Backstage28 march − Palazzo Mocenigo
www.mocenigo.visitmuve.itTheSkatalites29 march − Centro Sociale Rivolta
www.rivoltapvc.blogspot.itVisiteguidatefino to 29 march − Museo Archeologico
Naziontoe
www.polomusetoe.venezia.beniculturali.itVisiteguidategratuitefino to 29 march − Palazzo Grimani
www.palazzogrimani.orgVisiteguidategratuite8, 22, 29 march − Museo d'Arte Orienttoe
www.polomusetoe.venezia.beniculturali.itAllaricercadelprofumoperfetto30 march − Palazzo Mocenigo
www.mocenigo.visitmuve.itIlsuonodell'immagine30 march − Ca' Pesaro
www.capesaro.visitmuve.itIncrocidiCiviltàfrom 2 to 5 april − Venezia
www.incrocidicivilta.orgSaloneNauticoInternazionale4, 5, 6, 11 12, 13 april − Expovenice
www.expovenice.it
SS ee ee yyoo uu ii nn VVee nn ii cc ee
FélicienDaviddaParigitoCairofrom 5 april to 17 maggio − Palazzetto Bru
Zane
www.bruzane.comIosonocomicountil 5 april − Teatro Toniolo
culturaspettacolovenezia.it
FestivalInternazionalediLetteratura
from 10 to 13 april − Venezia
www.incrocidicivilta.orgIosonoteatrountil 13 april − Teatro Toniolo
culturaspettacolovenezia.itIosonomusicauntil 15 april − Teatro Toniolo
culturaspettacolovenezia.itStagioneTeatroGoldoniuntil 27 april − Teatro Carlo Goldoni
www.teatrostabileveneto.itStagioneTeatroMuratauntil may − Teatro della Murata
www.teatromurata.itVisiteguidatemostraGiuseppePanzauntil 3 may − Ca' Pesaro
www.capesaro.visitmuve.itStagioneMusicadaCamerauntil 26 may − Teatro La Fenice e Scuola
Grande San Rocco
www.societavenezianaconcerti.orgLemusichedeiGrimaniuntil 31 may − Ptoazzo Grimani
www.palazzogrimani.orgVisiteguidate mostraLégeruntil 1 june − Museo Correr
www.mostrtoeger.itProiezioni toteatrinountil june − Teatrino di Ptoazzo Grassi
www.ptoazzograssi.itCasadelleparolefino a giugno − Teatrino di Ptoazzo Grassi
www.ptoazzograssi.itLiveonArtuntil 27 june − Musei Civici Veneziani
www.visitmuve.itComunicare ilverbo–Lezionivenezianeuntil 30 june − Hotel Bauer
www.bauerhotels.comConcertisullascalauntil 7 december − Chiesa Luterana
www.kirchevenedig.deBackstage.LamodadelSettecentountil 26 december − Palazzo Mocenigo
www.mocenigo.visitmuve.itItinerariSegretiuntil 31 december− Palazzo Ductoe
www.palazzoductoe.visitmuve.itStagionedelTeatro laFeniceuntil 31 december− Teatro La Fenice
www.teatrolafenice.itVisiteguidateuntil 31 december− Fondazione Giorgio
Cini
www.cini.itVisiteguidateuntil 31 december − Ca' Giustinian
www.labienntoe.orgVisiteguidateuntil 31 december − Museo Ebraico
www.museoebraico.itKidsdayfrom 2,9,16,23,30 march e 6,13,20,27 april
− Peggy Guggenheim Collection
www.guggenheimvenice.itVadoallaFeniceconlamiafamiglia8,9,10 april − Teatro la Fenice
www.teatrolafenice.itL'ArcadiNoè25 march, 1,8 april − Centro Culturale
Candiani
www.candiani.comune.venezia.itSt_Artpertutti15,22, 29 march e 5, 12, 19, 26 april − Punta
della Dogana
www.palazzograssi.itLaboratori inSerra15, 22, 29 march e 5,12,19 april − La Serra
dei Giardini
www.serradeigiardini.org
SafariNaturalistico inMuseo16 march − Museo di Storia Naturale
www.msn.visitmuve.itCandiani inFamiglia23 march − Centro Culturtoe Candiani
www.candiani.comune.venezia.itFarfalle23 march − Centro Culturtoe Candiani
www.candiani.comune.venezia.itIgrandicarnivoriritornano29 march − Museo di Storia Naturtoe
www.msn.visitmuve.it
BeClear!
from 8 to 29 march − Collezione Peggy
Guggenheim
www.guggenheimvenice.it36°SueZoper iPonti30 march − Venezia
www.suezo.itDelittoaregolad'arte6 april − Palazzo Ductoe
www.palazzoductoe.visitmuve.itLacittàdelleapi6 april − Museo di Storia Naturtoe
www.msn.visitmuve.itLaboratoriokidsmostraGiuseppePanza13 april − Ca' Pesaro
www.capesaro.visitmuve.itAllacortediTeodora13 e 27 april − Ptoazzo Mocenigo
www.mocenigo.visitmuve.itKidsCreativeLabfrom 25 april to 4 may − Peggy
Guggenheim Collection
www.guggenheimvenice.itAPerdifiabauntil 26 april − Ptoazzo Grimani
www.palazzogrimani.orgFamiglietoMuseo2014until 21 dicembre − Musei Civici Veneziani
www.visitmuve.itVisiteguidateuntil 28 dicembre − Museo di Storia
Naturtoe
PPaall aazzzzoo GGrriimmaann ii
If you are planning on visiting Castello, do not miss the chance to visit the museumof the Querini Stampalia Foundation: it is a housemuseum that recreates thesumptuous home of the Querini family, one of the richest art collections in the city
including over four hundred paintings from between the XIV and XX century. GiovanniBellini, Lorenzo di Credi, the two Palmas, Bernardo Strozzi, Marco and SebastianoRicci, Giambattista Tiepolo, Orazio Marinali, Pietro Longhi, Antonio Canova andGabriel Bella are among the artists on display.
Castellofor kids
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The Foundation also opened CasaMacchietta for children aged between 3and 6 a purposely equipped space withtoys, books and coloured pencils. Thespace is divided into themed areas so thatchildren can play or take part in variousactivities and animated readings.Macchietta was one of the dogs of casaQuerini, mentioned in the letters thatElena Mocenigo wrote to her husbandAndrea Querini in the 1700s, and it will bethe one to accompany our little guests intheir adventures. A place were childrenare taken care of by qualified Italian,English and Frenchspeaking personnelwhile parents study in the Library, read amagazine or a newspaper in theNewspaper library, visit the Museum or anexhibit or take part in a conference. FromApril 1st, the educational offer will bericher with daily creative workshopsinspired by the theme of the month. Themonth of April is dedicated to reading.
Kids will discover the magical world ofbooks and stories through reading aloud,animated readings and workshops.A short walk from the Foundation, we findthe Grimani Palace, home of the Grimanifamily of Santa Maria Formosa. It isabundantly decorated with frescoes,stuccos and marbles made by famousartists of the XVI century such asGiovanni da Udine, Francesco Salviati andFederico Zuccari.The Museum has also organised a series
of animated readings entitled APerdifiaba: Letture con attori e musicadalle Fiabe di tutto il Mondo (Readings offairy tales from all over the world withactors and music ) until the end of April2014 to make children learn more aboutother languages, cultures and traditions.There will be ten onehour long readings,ideal for schoolage children, everySaturday at 3 pm. The actors of thePantakin actors' company will perform
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traditional Russian, Jewish, African, Balkan,French, British, Norwegian, Japanese and Irishfairy tales as well as the least known gypsyones. At tea break, children will find a small giftfrom the Country they have just visited, like akosher biscuit or a piece of Japanese origami.What is more, the Biblioteca Pedagogica"Lorenzo Bettini" (kids library) is located justafter the San Zaccaria waterbus stop nearSt.Mark's Square: in addition to the vastcollection of Italian books for kids andteenagers, there is also a variety of beautifullyillustrated books and games in English, French,Spanish and German. The section for kidsbetween 0 and 4 is on the ground floor,decorated with colourful tables and chairs andthere is also an area suitable for breastfeedingor for mumstobe. There is also a toilet with achanging area near the entrance. On the firstfloor, for older children, there are five wifiinternet stations (access cards can be bought onthe Portale Venezia Unica website).
I n fo rmat i on
"Lorenzo Bettini" PedagogicalLibraryCastello, campo S. Provolo, 4704 /a, VenicePh.: +39 0415220557 Fax: +39 041717361biblioteca.bettini@comune.venezia.itwww.comune.venezia.it
Querini Stampalia FoundationCastello 5252, 30122 VenicePh: +39 0412711411 Fax +39 0412711445 Booking +39 389 3410639 (from Tuesady toSunday from 3 p.m. to 4 p.m.)[email protected]
Palazzo GrimaniMuseo di Palazzo Grimani Castello 4858 –Ruga Giuffa, 30122 VenicePh.:+39 0412411507www.palazzogrimani.org
““LLoorreennzzoo BBeettttii nn ii ”” PPeeddaaggoogg ii ccaall LLii bbrraarryy
V enice is an archipelago: there are aboutseventyone lagoon islands which comein various sizes and are more or less
densely inhabited, embracing the historic city,characterised by ancient productive, conventualsand military settlements. And without a doubt,the lagoon islands are places of often still wildbeauty, suggesting to those who set foot for thefirst time find themselves in another, timelessworld. To the south of Burano, not far fromTorcello, in a secluded and quiet corner of thelagoon, which the boat lines do not get to, risesSan Francesco del Deserto, a small island thathosts a convent of minor friars, one of the last
hermitages of the lagoon. An oasis of peace andmeditation, where the silence is broken only bythe singing of the birds that live hereundisturbed. This is certainly the ideal place forthose who want to get away even for an hourfrom the crowds that invade the city and theother islands of the lagoon of Venice especiallyduring the summer months, but also to spend afew days in peace, silence and meditation. Anisland which is perfect for a short flight from theworld, strolling in the greenery of secularcypresses and pines, admiring the landscape ofmud flats and salt marshes, the landmass of thelagoon, covered with thick vegetation.
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B etween h i s to ry and l egend
According to tradition, in 1220 Saint Francis ofAssisi, on board a Venetian ship returning frompilgrimage to the Holy Land, landed on theisland, at the time called "delle Do Vigne". Herethe saint was accepted by the singing of amultitude of birds: recounts his biographer St.Bonaventure of Bagnoregio. A few years after thedeath of Francis, the owner of the island, theVenetian patrician Jacopo Michiel, erected achapel in honour of the poor man of Assisi, thefirst dedicated to the saint, and donated the
island to the Franciscan Friars, to build aconvent. The name of the place dates back to acouple of centuries later, when in the FifteenthCentury the insulation and the unhealthiness ofthe place forced the Franciscans to abandon theisland, which was deserted for some years. In1451 the island was granted to Friars Minor sentin to restore the church and the convent, whoalso built the Renaissance cloister. At the end ofthat same century, Pope Clement VIII settled theReformed Friars Minor therein. The latter orderremained on the island until 1806, when theNapoleonic suppression of religious ordersforced the friars to leave the island, while the
The green & fai r -trade map of Ven i ce
Fuorirotta. The other Map of Venice 2014edition collects all the information, advice, ideas forthe travellers, looking for sustainable, original andsupportive tourism in Venice, in the lagoon and onthe mainland, as well as for the Venetians, who want toadopt a more dedicated and conscious life style, both asfor everyday shopping and as for their cultural choices.It is not only a map: Fuorirotta. The other Map ofVenice lends itself to be used as a real guide to getaround in the city and discover the ecofriendly,cultural and localoriented initiatives, to get to knowunknown sites, to enjoy the parks and the naturalareas, to eat organic and zeromile food, shopping incraftsmen’s and fair trade shops.
For further information, please visit:www.veneziaunica.it/it/content/fuorirottalaltramappadivenezia
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convent was used for the storage of explosives andthe island itself became a military barracks. In1856, the Austrian Emperor Francis I gave theisland to the Patriarch of Venice, who in turngranted it in perpetuity to the Franciscan FriarsMinor. In 1858 came the work of restoration of theentire complex, that brought to light not only theapses of the oratory but also the foundations of theancient thirteenthcentury church, which is in turnbuilt on a building with two compartments.Nowadays the church with the two cloisters, onedating back to the thirteenth century and the otherfrom the Renaissance period, are places of prayerfor a small community of Franciscans.
Vi s i t to th e h erm i tage
The island of San Francesco del Deserto is open toanyone who wants to visit it during the day, from9 am to 11 am and from 3 pm to 5 pm, every dayexcept Mondays. Visitors are greeted and escortedthroughout their visit by a Franciscan friar. Theisland is within easy reach of Burano by privateboat: the connection is guaranteed every day except on Mondays at 2.30 pm; the journey toand from the island takes about ten minutes and
costs 10 euro. Once off the boat, visitors walkalong a treelined avenue that leads to the church,flanked by the bell tower and by the convent. Thedoor to the right leads to the first cloister, recentlyrestored, and the nearby fifteenthcenturycloister, with a baroque wellcurb at its centre.Among the works of art and the paintings ofvarious origins, visitors can see the Four CrownedSaints attributed to Jacopo Tintoretto and AndreaMeldolla, called Schiavone. The beautiful garden,very well maintained by the friars, is also worth avisit. Walking along the path visitors reach twopanoramic terraces, with gorgeous views of thebeautiful landscape of the surrounding lagoon.
I n re t reat on th e i s l an d
The friars welcome those who wish to retreat fora few days in the silence and solitude of theconvent: visitors can book in advance, can stayon the island to spend three days following therhythms of the Franciscans, usually from Fridayafternoon to Sunday lunchtime. Guests sharemoments of prayer and meals with thecommunity. The visitors stay in a homeproviding single rooms with shared bathrooms.
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U sefu l I n fo
To get to the island of San Francesco delDeserto from the historical centre ofVenice, take public waterbus line 12from Fondamente Nove up to Burano.For timetables please refer to thewebsite of the public transportationcompany: www.actv.itTo reach the island of San Francesco delDeserto from Burano with the shuttleservice, you can contact in advancewww.lagunaescursioni.comTo stay and spend a few days on theisland of San Francesco del Deserto, callthe phone number 041 5286863 at mealtimes. For more information visit thewebsite of the Franciscan convent:www.sanfrancescodeldeserto.it
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With over 630 hectares, it can boast of being one of the most extensive wetlands inthe Mediterranean; you may well say that Venice is a city where the unusual lagoon environment has influenced and affects more or less directly all the activi
ties and functions that take place there.Indeed, the water of the lagoon is renewed by the tide of the Adriatic and passes through itsthree inlets twice a day and from the few rivers that over the centuries have not been subjectto hydraulic diversion works (such as for example the Brenta River or the South Tyrol) andstill flow into it (such as Marzenego, Dese, Sile, … ). The bottoms are around one metre deep onaverage (even if in some cases in the vicinity of the industrial port they can reach 15 20 metres).It is an environment that appears homogeneous but is instead distinctly hierarchical with asuccession of freshwaters and marine currents, among a maze of canals.These are the conditions that determine the development of the city of Venice, its delicatebalance and its distinct specificity.
Venicebackstage
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Re l a t i on sh i p wi th th e water
Venice is not an island, but from the outset, itdeveloped as a sort of urban archipelagocomposed of several nuclei currently there are124 settlements sharing a few elements: thefield, in which the functions of collective interestare concentrated church and market lappedby at least one rio currently, in all likelihood ithas been buried and become an undergroundcanal called rio Terà and one or more waterwells. In an urban environment surrounded bybrackish water, one of the fundamentalproblems is finding drinking water: forcenturies, the Venetians devised a greatunderground system to collect rainwater. Thissystem which is no longer in use because from1884 it was replaced by Le public fountains ofthe aqueduct there remains a trace in thehundreds of well curbs that emerge in almost allfields (squares).It is precisely the skillful historical andprogressive exploitation of the advantages of
living in the lagoon (insulation, barriers anddevelopment of a diffused port) that allowedVenice to become one of the greatest powers ofthe Mediterranean in a relatively short time.But water is also Venice's great physicallimitation. Construction is expensive because thefoundations rest on muddy terrain, consolidatedby means of a thick layer of long wooden polesstuck down to the more compact sediments(caranto). A wooden structure and a base of Istriastone is then placed on these "forests" of poles onwhich the real masonry is set.The margins of the town's islands are also linedwith bricks to combat erosion, but these requirecontinuous maintenance procedures because inthe long rune they lose water proofing: thebrackish water erodes the mortar that holdsthem together and the motion of the wavesdetaches them.In addition, the porosity of the masonry draws therising damp which by evaporating crystallisesthe dissolved salts: these increase in volume andcrumble the bricks themselves.
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S t reet s o f th e c i ty
The first singular element which appears to those whovisit Venice is the separation of pedestrian paths fromthose intended for transport, i.e. the canals. This principleisascurrentas it isoriginalandprevadesthehistoryof thecity. People used to move between the islands usingalmost exclusively the water ways and for a long time thebridges remain very few: nowadays, the situation is lessobvious because beyond the current 438 bridges nineteenth century pedestrian routes were developed tosuch an extent that to this day people in the city mostlymove around on foot and even the pipes for the technicalinstallations (electricity, water, telephone ... ) use the samepedestrianpathsand...crossingthebridges!When we look at the map of the city, the network ofcanals is very evident and the articulation of thefundamental urban body in insulae is very recognisableand follows a few models repeated throughout the city:more or less regularly built, arranged in a comb shapealong the canals, tracked by narrow internal streets orfacingeachotheronlargeropenspacescalledcampi.
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calle: from the Latin "calle (m) ", whichmeans path, track.fondamenta: landthatoverlooksario.ruga: road lined with shops.piscina: marshy underground terrainramo: side of a main street ... oftenwithout exit.sottoporteghi: spaces under buildingsbarbacane:emerging trusses thatsupport the projection of the buildingson the first floor to gain space withoutrestricting the pedestrian surfacesalizada: an important urban pavedroutecaranto: (from the late Latin caris"stone") a fossil soil of particularconsistency forming the foundation ofVenetian palaces
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The hou ses . . . on th e t rees
Thousands of long poles inserted headlonghead down, planted by force into the softunderlying soil: it is not difficult to think ofVenice as an incredible upside down forest,on which an entire town of houses stands ...on trees!The buildings were created based on theenvironmental features and the most frequent scheme adopted in construction isthat of Fondaco warehouses, the type of residence of medieval merchant families.The raised scheme follows these modules:a) ground floor: storage and sale spaceb) portego: living room on the first floor having the function of reception spacec) attic: servants' quartersThe wood and brick structures, together with the foundations adapt to the subsidenceof the underlying soil; you can think of abuilding as if it were a box with walls andfloors not rigidly secured to the perimeter.
The walls are simply resting on the masonryto allow for movements.The loadbearing walls are almost alwaysperpendicular to the rii and thus they arethe only real loadbearing walls i.e. theycarry the floor loadsThe facade does not have a bearing function,indeed, as it is not loaded, it allows for largeopenings to let light into the building andalmost overlooksThe perimeter walls are slightly inclined inwards and in case of disruptions these tendto anchor the roof avoiding outward protrusion.The floors and covers are made of wood, alight, elastic material that resists buildingmodifications without breaking.The floors are connected with a system ofinterwoven stairs (Leonardesque stairs) thatallow for separate entrances for receptionand the servants. However there were alsopoints of exchange to enable the transitionfrom one part to another.
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FF oo rr mm oo rr ee ii nn ff oo rr mm aa tt ii oo nn"Venice Backstage. Comefunziona Venezia?", video docu-mentary produced by Insula SpA for
Venice City council .
www.venicebackstage.org
The Atlas of lagoon: Geoportal ofthe lagoon, of the territory and thecoastal area of Venicewww.silvenezia.it
L'Italia, Venezia, Touring, Milano2005
Tizano Scarpa, Venezia è unpesce. Una guida, Feltrinel l i ,Milano 2008
water level
bricks
channel
bottom
wooden polo
wooden planking
caranto
stone
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The sestieri
Castello
Castello is the Easternmost part of Venice. It is the biggest
sestiere and the secondmost populated, but it is theonly one that does notoverlook the Grand Canal.Its name derives from theCastle that doge Pietro Tribuno built in the 1800s tofortify the city and whichlater became the headquarters of the religious authority until the Patriarchmoved from the San Pietrodi Castello island to St.Marks. The sestiere developed around the Arsenale,thanks to the building ofhouses for those who used towork in the nearbyworkshops, barns, furnacesand warehouses. The Domi
nican convent of San Giovanni e Paolo and theFranciscan one of SanFrancesco della Vigna are inthe Northern part of the sestiere. The Public Gardensand Via Garibaldi date backto Napoleonic times andthere are also two schools Scuola di San Giorgio degliSchiavoni and ScuolaGrande di San Marco.The latter was transformedby Napoleon into a militaryhospital and it still housesthe Santi Giovanni e Paolocity hospital, which takes itsname from the church onwhich it stands. Nowadays,Castello is quite a populararea, but it is actuallyconsidered a peripheral partof the city.
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For Venetians, 25thApril is a far moreancient anniversary
than Liberation Day, as it isSt. Mark's Day.He is Venice's patron saintand his relics, which used tobe in Alexandria, were moved to Venice in 828 by legendary Venetian merchantsBuono from Malamocco andRustico from Torcello.The story goes that, in orderto steal the precious body ofthe saint, the two merchantshid it in pork meat, as itwould not be inspected atcustoms because of the Muslim disgust for that type of
meat. Traditionally, men give the girl they love a bócolo on this day, i.e. a singlerosebud. It is a longstanding tradition, still highly popular among Venetians, who often buy a floweralso for their relatives andloved ones. According to thelegend, a noblewoman fell inlove with a troubadour who,when badly wounded inbattle, fell upon a rosebedand coloured a rosebud withhis blood. The rosebud wasthen returned to the woman,who was found dead holdingthe symbolic gift the dayafter, i.e. 25th April.
Cas t rau re
Typical artichokes grown on theSant'Erasmo island, famous for theirslightly bitter taste.
In a panIngredients serves 4: 10 artichokes; 2garlic cloves; oil; vegetable stock; saltInstructionsCut the artichokes in half and put themin a pan. Season them with salt, oil anda glass of vegetable stock. Cook themon a high heat for ten minutes, thenlower the heat and let them cook forhalf an hour. Turn the artichokes everynow and then and add stock to preventdrying out. When cooked, add freshlychopped parsley and serve hot.
FriedIngredients: 36 castraure or botoli;Peanut oil; salt; For the batter: water;flour; yeast; saltInstructionsRemove the toughest leaves and cut theartichokes into wedges Dip everywedge in a simple batter (or egg, if youprefer) and fry them in abundant oil.Alternatively, roll the wedges in flourand fry them.www.carciofosanterasmo.it
traditions
Festa del Bocolo
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Al tan a
It is a sort of wooden terracemounted on top of pillars on theroofs of houses. During the Repu
blic, Venetian women used to go upthere to lighten their hair colour after dyeing their hair, they would letit dry in the sun through a straw hatwith no top (solana).
This unusual and typical structurebecame essential during WorldWar I to deploy the fusiliers assigned to air defence.
Nowadays, the altane are mostly usedto dine al fresco or simply chat withfriends during sultry summer nights.
Carving is a veryancient form of artistic wood decoration
which has always been oneof the main crafts in manyItalian regions.This art originated becauseof the need to embellishand make homes morewelcoming by transformingeveryday objects into magnificent artefacts expressing the symbolic values oflocal traditions. In Venice,intagiadóri are usuallythose craftsmen whointervene in the final phaseof the decoration ofgondolas. They sculpt notonly the parts that can beseen, but also the parécio,that is to say the furniturefor passengers. Gondolas
nowadays look very different from what can be seenin the paintings of theXVIII century.As they increasingly became ceremonial boats, thebow coverings of gondolaswere also modified thefiuboni (wooden boardsthat cover the stern andbow of gondolas) took theshape of roofs and weredecorated with carvings,inlays and gilding. Woodcarvers can be specialisedin either 'decorations' or'figures', but the subjectsare always agreed uponwith gondoliers in advanceon the basis of a 'repertoire' of drawings accumulated by the workshop overthe years.
Venetiancuriosities
Ancient crafts
Intagiadori
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Each copy of the largefleet of small boatsthat pass through the
canals of Venice every dayhas a particular history: thesandolo is no exception.It is one of the most widespread types in the lagoonand over the years it hasevolved in very different wayscontinuously from one islandto the other, depending onuse and the environment.The lightness and agilityof the sandalo, both with Venetian rowing with two crossoars (alla vallesana technique),have made it equivalent to a
cart or bicycle for the Venetian population, becomingthe most suitable way to rowalong stretches of lagoon afew centimetres deep: a toolfor uniting people walking onthe water sandalo is alsothe name of known type offlat shoe, the sandal in anenvironment that is oftendifficult and hostile but thatdespite this has allowed for acivilization to develop andremained for centuries insymbiosis with the ecosystem, respecting its naturalresources and reaping thegreatest fruit possible.
There are large ones, around nine meters,such as the sandolo buranello that wasused mostly for different types of fishing, solarge and elegant as to still be in use alongwith the gondolas for the transport of passengers in the city or small ones (56 meters) such as the socalled s'ciopon thedialectal name of the high caliber rifle thatwas installed on board until the sixties, andwhich was used for hunting birds in the lagoon during the periods of migration.Other strange names linked to the ancientcrafts are for example the sandolo da fossina or da fagiaroto (for fishing with theharpoon), different from the s'ciopon by amore marked elevation of the extremities(bow and stern) the saltafossi of simple,lightweight and inexpensive constructionwas used in fishing valleys dragged by asingle man to overcome an embankment orcircumvent other obstacles, the cofano orsandolo with coverta: a sandolo born ofthe experience of the hunters of the north lagoon who extended the cover to half boat tocover the hunter during the hunt and to keepthe load dry even on rainy days: it is practically the archetype of fiberglass motorboatsthat young venetians who often irresponsiblydash along the canals in the city or thesandolo of San Piero or sampierotta,from the name of the village of San Pietro inVolta, a very comfortable and capacious fishing boat which is suitable for the sea aswell, born for rowing and currently having anew lease of life among lugsail experts thanksto its good sailing characteristics, the pupparin, the only asymmetric sandolo similar tothe gondola with a stern developed to increase rowing yield, used when there were still noengines in the lagoon especially by customsofficers and smugglers, who for obvious reasons needed speed and maneuverability orthe mascareta, a very elegant sandolo ofwhich there remains only the sport version,which is very widespread among rowing clubassociations.
Not only gondola
The sandoloaarrzzaannaa.. oorrgg
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V – Venezia magazineYear 2, issue 6 March - Apri l 201 4
Bi-monthly online magazine by the Tourism Department of the City of Venice
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