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Year XX No. 9 - October 2013Year XX No. 9 - October 2013
The ORIGINAL magazine of Tuscan cultureGRAPEVINEGRAPEVINE
€ 2€ 2
Special 20th Anniversary Edition!
Contents
Address for correspondence and advertisingGrapevine, Via Francesconi 2
S. Ginese di Compito55012 Lucca
Telephone 0583 909012 Fax 0583 908849, Mobile 340 2880562
Skype susan.jarman.rosalind
Registrazione Tribunale di Luccano. 629 del 13 dicembre 1994
Iscrizione CCIAA - Lucca no. 199169
Printed by Myck Press srlCalcinaia (PI) tel 0587 422802
The listings published in Grapevine are taken from reliable sources and reproduced in good faith. However, to avoid disappointment, readers are advised to check information before setting off. Signed articles do not necessarily reflect the views of the editor or of the Direttore Responsabile.
GRAPEVINE October 2013 - 3
2013OctoberChef Paolo Monti's Cooking School,
highly rated on Tripadvisor.
for food lovers and professionals alike! Daily cooking classes, fresh pasta and
sauces, fish and seafood, Tuscan class, risotto, pizza, focaccia,
Chef Paolo's favorite dishes. Classes are hands-on, taught in a relaxed fun atmosphere. Participants cook most
dishes themselves, then enjoy these with plenty of wine and home made liqueurs.
Monday to Sunday 10am to 2.30pm. Afternoon classes upon request.Info:
Via di Sant'Alessio no. 3684, LuccaTel 0583 329970 338 6718641
Open every day for lunch and dinner.Typical Tuscan trattoria with local specialties:
zuppa di farro, tordelli lucchesi, wild boar pasta, porcini, asparagus and artichokes. Specialties from the charcoal grill: Bistecca alla Fiorentina (T.Bone steak), lamb and mixed grill.
Specialized in seafood dishes,with fresh fish every day!
4 special menus prepared by Chef Paolo Monti for you. Special Dinner with demo in the
cooking class kitchen, by reservation only.
Chef Paolo Monti's Tuscan Sun Apartments
In the green of the Lucca countryside, 10 minutes from the center attached to the cooking school, four newly remodelled Tuscan style apartments, with terracotta tiles on the floor, wooden beams on the ceiling, wrought iron beds, cooking facilities … but with modern comforts such as private bathroom, telephone, air-con, free Wi-Fi, 32” flat screen TV.
Info:Via di Sant'alessio n 3684, Lucca
tel 0583 329970
-------------------------------------
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www.cucina-italiana.com
www.tuscansunapartments.com
Chef Paolo Monti's Restaurant La Cantina Di Carignano
Try Chef Paolo Monti's Tasting menus
Direttore Responsabile ContributorsGiuseppe Brandani Norma Jean Bishop
(coordinator)Founder Helen AskhamSusan Jarman Claudia Casoli
Julia Alexandra MeeEditor Mara MuciniAlexander Simi Joanna Nobile
Sculpture by Rabarama – Pisa Airport photo by Norma Jean BishopYour Satisfaction is Our Pleasure
Via del Ponte Guasperini, 873S. Lorenzo a Vaccoli 55100 Lucca
tel +39 0583 370101 fax +39 0583 [email protected]
GPS - Latitude: 43.80001 NORDLongitude: 10.49145 EST
Altitude: 243 ++
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Tuscan Holiday Rental
Apartment
Available All Year Round
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Piazza San Frediano 3 - LuccaTel/fax 0583 467375
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n the 1500's, Lucca's Walls were built from (Orders concerning the care of Lucca's Walls, fear, as powerful Florence was attacking 1643) will be presented at the State Archives. Pisa, and Lucca stood between. The enter- The same day, at the Lucca Mint (Casermetta S. I prise, a 5 km circuit of tightly-fitted stones, Donato, 3.30 pm) a commemorative medal and
was tremendous. Citizens were conscripted to Renaissance coins and medals will be shown, fol-help complete the task as quickly as possible. lowed by a discussion of the role of symbols in Fortunately the attacks didn’t occur. In the 1800's constructing a people's identity (6 pm, S. Maria Luisa di Borbone raised the Walls higher Francesco Auditorium). From 5 October to 8 as flood protection, after which they became the December, the iconography of the Walls will be urban park that we enjoy today. shown in the Diocesan Archives, and Primum
Roberta Martinelli's book Lucca e le sue Mura fortificare – Lucca's 16th/17th century military with photographs by Luca Lupi was presented in architecture – at the State Library. Ri-the newly restored San Francesco Auditorium nascimento, a re-evocation of the ceremonial last month, and Maestro Gianfranco Cosmi opening of the city gates, will take place on 5-6 brought together 500 singers in a Hymn for the October, with encampments, markets, duels, Walls, planned for Piazza San Martino but due to games and crossbow competitions. Then the rain held in the Duomo instead. AML will offer a band concert entitled Cortine
delle Mura Urbane on 20 October (4pm). Continuing the celebrations, on 4 October (11.30 am) an anastatic reprint of the Ordini Civic pride. And we return to strolling or bik-sopra la buona guardia delle Mura di Lucca ing upon our beloved Walls....
Lucca’®s Walls, 500 Years Young
4 - October 2013 GRAPEVINE
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[email protected] www.systems-pool.com
A Farewell to SummerL’ultimo sole d’estate Summer's Last Sun
Tra I filari Among the threading arbors dell'uva of the grapes
l'ultimo sole d'estate summer's last sun affonda i suoi raggi sinks its rays su chicchi succosi. into the succulent seeds.
I colori brunastri, The browning shades, il fruscio delle foglie, the rustling leaves,
il profumo della terra riarsa the perfume of the parched earth l'accolgono. receive this sun.
Maestoso, Majestic,circondato da pulviscolo d'oro, surrounded by hazy golden light,
risplende it glows,in attesa dell'autunno in expectation of
che avanza. the approaching autumn.
– by Mara Mucini – tr. by Grapevine
Maria Stuarda Varetti (exhibits at FondazioneBanca del Monte and Lu.C.C.A. Museum)
Sculpture on Display
ur cover image from Pisa airport is a stunning work by a Roman artist, Paola Epifani, in art Rabarama. This year her marbles and bronzes are on display at Pisa Airport and in O Lucca, in this 2nd edition of the exhibit Volarearte (Soaring
Art), which was first organized in 2011 by the Fondazione Henraux of Monte Altissimo (Michelangelo's mountain) for Forte dei Marmi. Rabarama's sculptures express the pains and joys of being human, and a climbing child on the grassy airport lawn shows the playful acrobatics of such creations. Rabarama's works are on display in French Polynesia, at the Cirque du Soleil in Las Vegas, Saint Tropez, La croisette at Cannes, Florence (Pitti, Boboli, Scuderie Reali, Le Pagliere), Miami's Mizner Park, People’s Plaza in Shanghai, Paris' Place du Pantheon....
From the Lucchesi nel Mondo, two exhibitions continue into October, after their September Lucchesi openings. One shows the history of the figurinaio tradition, which emerged from the little mountain town of Coreglia Antelminelli. At the inauguration of this exhibit, fascinated visitors learned how the figurinaio works from molds to create plaster statues. Selling these around the world, emi-grants managed to survive and to feed their families, and they played a role in Italy's artistic recognition.
6 - October 2013 GRAPEVINE
(I am the Angelic Love that wheels around/ the lofty ecstasy breathed from the womb/ in which the hostel of Our
Artist Orio Dal Porto, born in Querceta, Wish was found.) – tr. by John Ciardi first emigrated to Paris, where he helped cre- And on the right is Vincenzo, inspired ate the Teatro del Opera reliefs, and then to by Neruda's more earthy verse: Argentina, where he continues as a sculptor. Asì en horas profundas sobre Visiting Lucca last month, he said that he los campo he visto/ doblarse las wanted to pay tribute to the great poets Pablo espigas en la boca del viento. Neruda and Dante. (Thus in the deep hours above
Here we see a lovely Maternità in Verona the fields, I have seen/The marble, inspired by a verse from Dante spikes doubling at the wind's (Canto XXIII of Paradiso): Io sono l'amore mouth.) – tr. ktapoon.wordpressangelico che giro l'altra Leticia, che ispira del ventre santo che fu albergo del nostro desiro See What’s On for details.
Via S. Giustina 22, Lucca - Italia Tel. +39 0583 419406 Cell. +39 [email protected] www.anticatipografiabiagini.it
Letterpress printing
Worldwide shipping
closed Sunday eveningand Monday
Via della Cervia - LUCCATel. 0583 55881
Fax 0583 312199www.bucadisantantonio.it
Trans-lettera, Palazzo Bernardini
According to the Roman writer, architect he term 'fresco' means 'fresh', and engineer Marcus Vitruvius Pollio, who and refers to painting on wet, recommended at least seven layers of ren-that is, 'fresh’ plaster. The T dering in his influential De Architectura pigments (those which support
the alkalinity of the plaster) are ground (c.15 BC), there should be at least one layer into powder, and mixed in water, lime of rinzaffo, three of arriccio, and three of water or lime milk, and are applied onto intonaco. This contributed towards a greater the surface whilst it is still moist. reserve of moisture in the ground, which al-Subsequently, as the calcium hydroxide lowed more time for the painting process, (slaked lime) is exposed to the carbon and as a result the intonaco was applied in dioxide in the air, it is transformed into pontata (large sections of plaster which cor-calcium carbonate, fixing the colours responded to the scaffolding), examples of within a durable surface, a process which which can be seen in the wall paintings in is known as carbonatisation (Ca(OH) + 2 Herculaneum and Pompeii. In later centu-CO = CaCO + H O). ries, such as in the Renaissance, fewer layers 2 3 2
In buon affresco ('vero' fresco), the were applied, sometimes only one of preparation of the wall consists of the ap- arriccio, upon which the drawing was exe-plication of a number of layers of render- cuted, and one of intonaco. Consequently, it ing. Over the centuries, the thickness of was necessary for the intonaco to be applied the ground used in fresco painting has var- in smaller sections (in giornate), since there ied. In the ancient wall paintings discov- was less time at the artists' disposal for the ered during the excavations at Her- painting process.culaneum and Pompeii, at least seven or eight layers of rendering had been ap- All of the works of art reproduced here are plied, whilst during the Renaissance as by Julia Alexandra Mee.few as two or three were employed.
The first layer of rendering, known as il In November: Fresco Painting, The Painting rinzaffo (il trullissatio or scratch coat), is Process.applied onto the surface of the wall (which is preferably of bricks or stone) to regular-ise any irregularities and holes that are present. The mortar is composed of slaked lime and clean river sand of a very large grain (or more tradition-ally, fragments of terracotta or pozzolana). This rendering is left to dry out completely before the second layer is applied, the so-called arriccio (incrostature or sand coat), which is formed of a mortar of slaked lime and clean river sand of a large grain. The entire compositional drawing known as the sinopia (after the red sinoper pig-ment used in the process) is executed on this layer. When this has completely dried out, the intonaco is applied (the layer to be painted), which is composed of slaked lime mixed with clean river sand of a finer grain or marble powder, upon which the painting is executed. This was sometimes followed sometimes by a thinner layer known as the intonachino or velo, which contains slightly more lime in the mortar.
The renderings are applied in progressively thinner layers, with more lime added to the mor-tar with each successive layer, and the use of sand or marble powder of a progressively finer grain. The last layer of rendering, the intonaco (and if present the intonachino), is applied in rel-atively small sections which have been prede-termined according to the composition of the drawing. At the beginning of the day, one sec-tion of intonaco is applied which is large enough to be painted and completed before the plaster becomes too dry at the end of the work-ing day, hence the term giornata (from the Italian word 'giorno' meaning 'day').
GRAPEVINE October 2013 - 7
Fresco Painting:
The Preparation of the Substratum The second of a three-part article by Julia Alexandra Mee
1. Fresco demonstration panel of Una Giovane Donna, sinopia.2. Fresco demonstration panel of Una Giovane Donna (1911), following the Renaissance technique. 3. Fresco demonstration panel of Un Ritratto di un Giovane Uomo following the technique described by Vitruvius. 4. On the left, the full-size drawing for Il Chitarrista, and on the right (5), the use of the pouncing technique to transfer the drawing from the spolvero onto the arriccio. Il Chitarrista was painted at the Studio, Benabbio, in 2012.Villa San Rocco
1
2 3
4 5
A Taste of Tuscany: Fresh Pesto
My first year in Italy I was sitting in the the winter? I awoke the next morning to Italian family, has lived in Italy for piazza listening to the local women dis- find a huge bag full of basil on my door-many years now. She and her cussing their recently made pesto. I could step, a gift from a friendly neighbour it J husband Antonio runs her own imagine the neat rows of jars stored in seems. I immediately set about sterilizing
organic farm near Lucca (info@stalla their cupboards ready to use through the jars and preparing my first batch of pesto. diguzzano.com tel. 346 3314739 www.stalla winter. I then thought of my own basil sup- The locals told me how to make it and how diguzzano.com) and are passionate about ply, a pathetic wilted plant that had seen to store it.Italian food and self-sufficient organic living. better days, one I bought weeks ago from Homemade pesto is much stronger in fla-
the supermarket. vour and in texture, yet it has a unique rus-This recipe is easy to make, it tastes deli- Perhaps they had seen it too and felt a bit tic Italian taste all its own.
cious, and once you make your own pesto sorry for me. After all, how was I to make you will never buy pesto again! enough pesto to feed my family though Buon appetito!
oanna Nobile, married into an
Storing Pesto• Put all ingredients except the cheese and olive oil in
100 ml jars, pressing down as you fill until it is completely packed full to the top.
• Add the oil gradually, until it reaches the top of the jar. • Sealed with airtight screw top lids, the jars can be
stored for up to a year. • Add the cheese once the jar is opened.• If you choose to add the cheese in the jars, this needs to
be frozen to prevent the cheese from going off. • Always add a good helping of cheese to the pesto
before warming it.
Growing BasilBasil can be grown in pots or in the ground. To make fresh pesto, you will
need to have several good plants. We grow ours in the ground. They don't take a lot of room. Or use a large trough or big flower pot.
The cheapest way to grow it is to buy the seeds from a local garden centre in early spring and seed them. You can also buy the young plants in late spring or early summer. These cost about €2.50 for 8 young plants. We go to De Paris in Ghivizzano (www.coltivazionideparis.it).
Basil needs lots of sun, some shade and lots of water in the evening. Picking off the flowers and top leaves encourages the plants to grow bushy and strong.
Try growing the black basil or green lemon basil varieties; they make a won-derful gourmet pesto that will be the talking point of any dinner.
Pesto 1. Gently wash leaves in a colander and leave them to dry naturally. Serves 4 to 6. Preparation time 15 minutes. (Place the basil leaves and an ice-cube in the food processor before This recipe can be made with or without the nuts. chopping to help maintain their green colour.)
2. Roughly chop the dry leaves and nuts. Ingredients 3. Finely grate the cheeses.25 fresh basil leaves 4. Mix cheeses, nuts and basil leaves together in a bowl with a pinch of salt, 100 ml (3.5 fl. oz.) of extra virgin olive oil adding the olive oil.40 g (1.5 oz.) pine nuts 5. Place in a saucepan and simmer for 5 minutes.40 g (1.5 oz) almond nuts 6. Cook pasta (approx. 100 g per person).25 g (1 oz.) freshly grated parmesan cheese 7. When ready, drain in a colander, then transfer to a large serving bowl.25 g (1 oz.) freshly grated pecorino cheese 8. Mix in the warm green pesto sauce with the pasta.a pinch of salt 9. Serve immediately with a generous handful of grated parmesan cheese.
8 - October 2013 GRAPEVINE
The Oxford Ben is your English host, bringing you food with a creative twist, cocktail bar after 6 pm. Events such as parties and business lunches can be arranged in advance. Wedding toasts upon request. Closed Sundays.
Restaurant-Bar-AperitifsTraditional cuisine Fresh products
Via Santa Giustina, 7 – Luccatel. 349 0994869
–
What's On This Month
GRAPEVINE October 2013 - 9
TEATRO DEL GIGLIO, Piazza del Giglio. LUCCA ORGAN FESTIVALgood faith based on the information La scena by Cristina Comencini, in its national Gavailable at the time of going to press. premiere. 11/12 Oct. 9pm, 13 Oct. 4.30pm CHURCH OF SAN FILIPPO (outside the Walls).
Past experience has taught us that events www.teatrodelgiglio.it 18 Oct. Enrico Barsanti plays 16th-17th programmed more than a month ahead can century composers. change date, hour or venue. We recommend Hidden Theatres tours Saturday 19 and 26 Oct. CHURCH OF SAN PIETRO SOMALDI (inside the you check before setting out. Meet at 3pm at the Basilica di San Frediano. Walls).
0583 465320, www.teatrodelgiglio.it 6 Oct. 9,15 pm. Organ Concert. 25 Oct. Organist Victor Contreras performs 17
BOCCHERINI OPEN to 19th century Mexican composers. 30 Oct. LUCCA BOCCHERINI AUDITORIUM, Piazza del Suffragio. Monica Piccinini, Patxi Montero, Daniele LUCCA JAZZ DONNA 2013 5 Oct. 6pm Debussy concert by Aldo Dotto Boccaccio (soprano, viola da gamba, organ)
(piano), Gloria Cervelli (clarinet), Cristina perform 17th-18th century music. All concerts at PALAZZO DUCALE, (Sala Ademollo). Papini (violin). Followed by Arianna Tarantino 9.15pm, free. Tel. 338 3221217 or 339 7591128.12 Oct. 9.15pm. Quando la musica è donna (piano) and Fabia Simini (cello) performing (When the music is a woman) by the Gershwin Boccherini, Beethoven, Brahms. 6 Oct. 6pm, SANTA GIULIA CHURCH, Piazza del Suffragio.Quintet: Letizia Ragazzini, Mariella Donnaloia, Francesco Gatti, Lara Berti, Sara Tomei (flute), Mirò Trio (strings Carlo Alberto Valenti, Isabella Fabbri, Laura Rocchegiani, Maria Giulia Simon Rugani, Cristian Monti (piano), Elisa Claudio Valenti, Carlo Benvenuti) perform J. S. Cester (flute, sax, piano). Followed by Barbara Barsella, Lara Petri, francesco Scarpetti Bach's Goldberg Variations. Free admission. Casini (voice, guitar, percussion) and Stefania (violas) performing 20th century music. Then On exhibit, paintings by C. Cherchi, G. Tallini (piano) playing Bate Boca. Free admission. at 9pm, Sofia Gazzola (piano) performing Giudice, M. Vertuccio. 3 Oct. 5pm.
Scarlatti, Beethoven, Liszt, Rachmanioff. 25 TEATRO SAN GIROLAMO Oct. 9pm, the Tangram Chamber Project will PALAZZO PFANNER, Via degli Asili 33.17 Oct. 9.15pm, Le emozioni degli strumenti perform Beethoven's Septet in E flat major, Op. 6 Oct. 9.15pm. Suoni di Lucca. Matthew Fallon & (The emotions of the instruments) with Igor 20 and Bruch's Septet in E flat major. All Marco Zoni (piano, flute) – Schumann, Casella, Palmieri, Fulvio Chiara, Manuela Capelli, concerts free. www.boccherini.it Fallon, Gaubert, Gènin, Borne. A tasting of the Isabella Rizzo, Laura Klain (sax, trumpet, Lucca liqueur “Biadina Tista” will follow. €5.piano, bass, drums). Followed by Francesca CHURCH OF SAN GIOVANNI (Baptistry) www.orchestraluigiboccherini.itBertazzo Hart (guitar and voice) and the Puccini Recitals 7pm. Mondays, Mozart & Francesca Bertazzo Hart Quintet performing Puccini; Tuesdays, Puccini's Women; SINFONIA SCHOOL OF MUSIC AUDITORIUM
music dedicated to the saxophonist Gigi Gryce. Wednesdays, An Evening of Italian Opera; L'intimismo dei Lieder by the Catalani Club. 18 18 Oct. 5.30pm, Donne e Jazz, avventure musicali: Thursdays, Puccini & Verdi; Fridays, Puccini Oct. 9.15pm. Laura Polverelli (soprano), lesson-concert with singers Michela Lombardi, Opera Recital; Saturdays, A Night at the Laura Pasqualetti (piano). Lieder by Wagner, Titta Nesti and Stefania Scarinzi accompanied by Opera; Sundays, Puccini & Traditional Fauré, Massenet, Debussy, Poulenc. Saturday Andrea Garibaldi (piano). Free admission. And at Neapolitan Song. 340 8106042. Tickets on sale 19 and Sunday 20, trip to La Scala for Verdi's 9.15pm by Le emozioni delle voci with Stefania daily 6pm to 7.15pm at San Giovanni. info@ Don Carlo, with Lucchese Massimo Cavalletti Scarinzi, Renato Sellani, Nico Gori (voice, piano, musick.it, www.puccinielasualucca.com as Rodrigo. Conductor Fabio Luisi. The trip clarinet, sax) in the project Sempre amore, then will include a visit to Verdi's tomb and to the Titta Nesti, Franco Santarnecchi, Ellie Young Lucca Philharmonic Orchestra artists' rest home that Verdi founded. Tel. 347 (voice, electronics, keyboard, percussion, cello, Wagner Benefit Concert: Die Meistersinger, 9951581, www.circolocatalanilucca.itflute) in the project Muziki. Tannhauser, Die Walküre and Tristan und 19 Oct. 9.15pm, Giovanni Tommaso Original Isolde. Soprano Francesca Patanè and tenor FONDAZIONE BANCA DEL MONTE AUDITORIUM
Project: “Plus Trio” with Sarah McKenzie, Nicola Simone Mugnaini. 8 Oct. 9.15pm. 25 Oct. 9pm, opening concert of the season Giovanni Tommaso, Nicola Angelucci (piano, Bruckner's 8th Symphony (1887/1890 organised by Cluster. Fabrizio Bertolucci and voice, bass, drums). version). 22 Oct. 9.15pm. the students of the Scuola Jam perform Studio Tickets €12, €8 reduced. www.luccajazzdonna.it Info: 340 8106042. su 1/4 by Fabrizio Bertolucci. Free.
rapevine publishes the listed events in
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Via Nazionale 180
Coming from Lucca,
300 metres on the
right after Esselunga.
Tel 0583 578.646
Marina di Carrara
Piazza Nazioni Unite, 25
Tel. 0585 788.000
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Piazza Guerrazzi 4/7
Tel. 0586 887.267
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10 - October 2013 GRAPEVINE
What’s on VORNO Reserve at 0583 74701 or at the Coop offices in spired by the poetry of Ennio Cavalli. Until 13 TENUTA DELLO SCOMPIGLIO, Via di Vorno, 67. Via G. Puccini 1601. Oct. 19 to 20 Oct. Carta d'Epoca, books and an-5 Oct. 11am to 5pm, 9th Contemporary Art tique paper display and sale. 10am to 7pm.Day. 13 Oct. 5.30pm, Autofocus – 20 years of PALAZZO BERNARDINI, OUTSIDE THE WALLS, Aldes Dance with dancers from Paris and music PISA AIRPORT BALUARDO SAN COLOMBANO under the Walls.including Jimi Hendrix and The Temptations in Volarearte, sculpture by Rabarama Until Jan. A Tribute to the Mysterious Voice of Marble A posto. 13 Oct. 7pm, Autofocus in Carne See this month's Grapevine cover and page 6. Through Time. Sculptures by Orio Dal Porto. Trita, dancers and vocalists from Università di Until 17 Oct. Organized by Lucchesi nel Ca' Foscari. 19 Oct. 4pm to 7.30pm. Roberto PALAZZO BOCELLA, Via della Fratta 36. Mondo and the Chamber of Commerce.Pugliese presents Emergenze acustiche, Lu.C.C.A. Center of Contemporary Art. curated by Angel Moya Garcia and on display World-famous photographer Henri Cartier- CASTELLO PORTA SAN PIETRO (on the Walls).until 19 January. 20 Oct. 3.30pm, La Regina Bresson 22 June to 3 Nov. Oltremura Lucchesi nel Mondo headquarters, Lucchesi delle nevi (Hans Christian Andersen's Snow Paintings by Maria Stuarda Varetti for the 500 Figurinai, art and emigration. Until 30 Nov.Queen), by Maria Lucia Carones and the years of Lucca's Walls. 10 Sept to 27 Oct. Associazione Talia. 26 Oct. 9pm (repeated 27 Tues to Sun 10 am to 7 pm. 0583 571712. DOMUS ROMANA Via Cesare Battisti 15.Oct. 7pm), Motus presents Nella Tempesta. www.luccamuseum.com Casa del Fanciullo sul Delfino, Dolphin Rider Box office 0583 971125. biglietteria@dello House. Permanent exhibit. Convivial Evenings scompiglio.org, www.delloscompiglio.org VILLA GUINIGI, Via Della Quarquonia. of Archaeology, tastings of Roman food &
Lucca and Its Walls, photos by Luca Lupi for drink. 0583 050060.www.domusromanalucca.itPISA the book Lucca e le sue Mura by Roberta TEATRO VERDI Martinelli. Until 26 Oct. Tuesday to Saturday POLESCHI GALLERY OF CONTEMPORARY ART, Verdi La Forza del Destino 11Oct. 8.30pm, 13 3.30am to 7.30pm.Tel. 0583 496033. Via S. Giustina 21.Oct. 4.30pm. Tel. 050 941111 or 050 941188 Monumenti di pensieri senza tempo by Nina (ticket office) www.teatrodipisa.pi.it PALAZZO GUINIGI, Chiesa Cittadina. Surel. On exhibit for 2 months, 10am to 7pm. Concerts from the Scuola Normale (artistic di- Celebrating 800 years since the pilgrimage of Tel. 0583 469490.rector Jeffrey Swann): 18 Oct. Mantova Chamber San Francesco from Assisi to Santiago di Orchestra and Ricercare Ensemble Chamber Compostella, a display of paintings, photographs PONTE A SERRAGLIO (Bagni di Lucca) Choir. 29 Oct., Leonora Armellini (piano) play- and objects regarding pilgrimage. Via Di Serraglia 4.ing Ravel, Chopin, Brahms. www.sns.it Cut-ups and Cut-outs by Marjorie Werner
FONDAZIONE BANCA DEL MONTE Picchi. Opening 13 Oct. 5pm. Tel. 333 861 7962.Oltremura Painting by Maria Stuarda Varetti. For the 500 years of Lucca's Walls. Until 27 VAGLI DI SOPRA
LUCCA Oct. Followed by American Dream by hyper- LA MURETA, Palazzo Domenico Marco Verdigi.Lucca Comics and Games 31 Oct. to 3 Nov. A realist painter Giampaolo Frizzi, 31 Oct. to 17 La Fanciulla di Vagli 6th century BC huge wave of costumed visitors will invade Nov. Hours: Mon. to Fri. 4pm to 8pm, Sat-Sun Ligurian-Apuane burial excavated in 1985, on Lucca's town center and the ex-Campo Balilla out- 10am to 1pm, 4pm to 8pm. exhibit daily. side the Walls. Exhibitions, meetings and markets www.fondazionebmluccaeventi.itfor collectors and fans begin on 19 Oct. LA BADIA DI CAMAIOREwww.luccacomicsandgames.com See page 2. FONDAZIONE RAGGHIANTI, Via S. Micheletto 3. Tra luce e buio, santi e mostri (Between light
La Forza della Modernità: Art in Italy 1920- and dark, saints and monsters). CAM ON col-M.U.S.T. MUSEUM, Via Guinigi 29. 1950. Until 6 Oct. Free entrance on 5 Oct. 10am lective exhibit. 12-13 Oct. Monday to Friday Instaphotoshow sponsored by Bang On! Until to 1pm, 4pm to 7pm Tuesday to Sunday. Tel. 6pm to 11pm, Sat/Sun 10am to 12.30pm, 5pm 6 Oct. Tel. 348 9127912. 0583 467205. www.fondazioneragghianti.it to 11pm. Dinner by reservation (338 4878732).
www.facebook.com/camoncircuitoffSTATE AND DIOCESAN ARCHIVES VILLA BOTTINI
Tesori della Memoria Guided visit and buffet Racconti a Colori (Tales in color), exhibit by PIETRASANTA for Coop members only. Meet in Piazza Guidic- Liceo Artistico Passaglia art students. 5 to 13 Oct. MUSA (Sculpture and Architecture Museum).cioni or directly at the Archives on 19 Oct. La Memoria della Pietra (The memory of stone), Lunch €5 donation to Caritas with wines from CENTRO CULTURALE AGORA', Piazza dei Servi. a collective history of sculpture in Pietrasanta, the Agricola Sociale Calafata Cooperative. Photography exhibit by Serra and Polizzano in- with filmed images and music. Until 6 Oct.
EXHIBITIONS
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autonoleggio - rent a carS.r.l.
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These rates are valid with advance booking, minimum 3 day rental, on request at: *Terms + Conditions: This coupon (virtual coupon or Grapevine magazine) must be presented to Pittore srl upon booking.
km as indicated above / limited insurance with extra coverage available / rental by the day available / 24 hour assistance.more inclusive insurance (see the amount per day) / refueling charge € 18 / administrative fee € 25 / 21% VAT / damage
while driving / parking tickets. [email protected]
Pittore srl
See our web siteTel +39 0583 467960
www.pittoresrl.net
KM INCLUDED 600 800 1000 1200 1400 200 Extra km
DAYS 3 4 5 6 7 Extra Day per km per day
B FIAT PANDA € 77.00 € 101.00 € 125.00 € 149.00 € 156.00 € 22.30 € 0.13 € 500.00 € 7.00
C OPEL CORSA 3P € 90.00 € 119.00 € 147.00 € 176.00 € 185.00 € 26.44 € 0.16 € 750.00 € 7.00
D OPEL CORSA 5P € 109.00 € 145.00 € 180.00 € 215.00 € 225.00 € 32.14 € 0.19 € 750.00 € 8.00
E OPEL ASTRA SW € 120.00 € 160.00 € 195.00 € 235.00 € 250.00 € 35.72 € 0.25 € 1,000.00 € 9.00
F OPEL ZAFIRA 7 PAX € 150.00 € 195.00 € 260.00 € 290.00 € 310.00 € 44.30 € 0.28 € 1,000.00 € 9.00
H NISSAN QUASQUAI € 170.00 € 230.00 € 280.00 € 340.00 € 355.00 € 50.70 € 0.30 € 1,000.00 € 10.00
Class Excess Coverage Cost of Excess
Acc/Theft
GRAPEVINE October 2013 - 11
this MonthVIAREGGIOGAMC Gallery of Modern Art, Palazzo delle Muse, Piazza Mazzini 22. LUCCA LUCCALa peste a Lucca (The plague in Lucca) Viani's CINEMA ITALIA BIBLIOTECA STATALE, Via S. Maria 12.masterpiece, not shown for 25 years, on exhibit The film club Ezechiele 2517 dedicates itself this 3 Oct. 5pm. Diderot at Lucca with speakers until Nov 30, with his Volto Santo and Blessing of season to The Story of Film and Roberto Rossellini, Paolo Casini and Marco Paoli.the dead at sea. Tel. 0584 581118. www.gamc.it and collaborates with Lucca Film Festival on a ret-
rospective dedicated to Greenaway (who was film- FONDAZIONE RAGGHIANTI
CENTRO MATTEUCCI, Via G. D'Annunzio 22. ing at San Francesco in Lucca last month), on Encounters on art, photography and cinema. Il Movimento Secessione (1900-1935). Miyazaki's Studio Ghibli and on many premieres, Projections and discussions of Cartier-Exhibit of post-impressionist works by De including the Italian-Iraqi film Sta per piovere, in Bresson, Bragaglia, Chaplin, Eisenstein. 4, 11, Chirico, Balla, Boccioni, Soffici, Pera and oth- collaboration with Amani Nyayo and Centro di 18 Oct. 5pm. www.fondazioneragghianti.iters. Until 2 Nov. Tel. 0584 430614. Cooperazione Missionaria, Qualcuno da amare, www.centromatteuciartemoderna.it the latest work by Abbas Kiarostami, Salvo by VILLA BOTTINI
Grassadonia and Piazza, and the comic, politically- LuccAutori 2013 XIX Literary Festival. PISA incorrect films Kick-Ass and Kick-Ass 2. Racconti nella Rete (on-line stories) XII edition. PALAZZO BLU 10 to 13 Oct. www.raccontinellarete.it11 Oct. to 1 Feb. 2014, 150 works by Andy FLORENCE Warhol, including 20 of his Polaroids. Tel. 050 CINEMA ODEON, Palazzo Strozzi. S. CONCORDIO, FORMAZIONE ESEDRA
2204611, www.palazzoblu.it Original language films. For the complete pro- Viale S. Concordio 135.gram call 055 214068 or see their website: Free English and music lessons for children
PONTEDERA www.odeonfirenze.com born in 2007-2008. 40 hour workshop Oct. PIAGGIO MUSEUM 2013 to March 2014. 4.30pm to 5.30pm. Tel. Daniel Schinasi, From Impressionism to 0583 418916.Neo-futurism Paintings, drawings and docu-ments (1957-2013). Sponsored by Pisa's LUCCA BAGNI DI LUCCAJewish Community. Until 12 Oct. 500th anniversary of the Walls See page 4. TEATRO ACCADEMICO
Ho scolato 21 bottiglie (I downed 21 bottles), PRATO Lucca Benefit Marathon, 25 to 27 Oct. On the autobiography by Mario Lena, former mayor MUSEUM OF PALAZZO PRETORIO Walls, in Piazza San Michele and the city of Bagni di Lucca, historian and poet, now 88. Celebrating the museum's re-opening after streets. Begins at 9am. Organized by ASD Maria Pacini Fazzi Editore. 5 Oct. 4pm.years of renovation. From Donatello to Lippi Lucca Marathon.60 masterpieces from some of the world's great-est museums. Between 1430 and 1460 Prato GUAMO was at the heart of the Renaissance. Until 13 VIA DI VORNO Teatro del Giglio lyric season Carmen 23-24 Jan. Open daily except Tuesdays, 10am to 7pm. Guamo and Coselli in festa. 6 Oct. 8am to 6pm. Nov. and Falstaff in December, followed by 0574 1934996. www.officinapratese.com Cimarosa and Offenbach in 2014. See article in
PONTE A SERRAGLIO (Bagni di Lucca). September Grapevine. Tickets can be pur-FIRENZE VILLA FIORI PARK chased beginning 11 Oct. Tel. 0583 465330.UFFIZI GALLERY Mondine, chestnut festival, 13 Oct. 10am to 4pm.
Teatro Verdi di Pisa, Oct. to March: Tosca, Il Gran Principe Ferdinando di Medici www.turismobagnidilucca.com
Carmen, Hoffman, Chenier, Pinocchio. See Collector and Patron of the Arts (1663-1713).
page 5.On exhibit until 3 Nov. www.unannoadarte.it LUCCHIO (Bagni di Lucca),
Chestnut festival in the church piazza. 20 Oct. Teatro del Giglio prose season continues with GUCCI MUSEUM, Piazza della Signoria 10. the Iliade by Teatro del Carretto, 8/9/10 Nov.Exhibit of 3 works by Portuguese artist Joanna BORGO A MOZZANO
Lucca Digital Photo Festival 9th edition, mid-Vasconcelos: Red Independent Heart (2008), NEAR PONTE DEL DIAVOLO
November to December.Psycho (2010), Lavoisier (2011). On loan from Halloween Celebrations Leading up to the the Pinault Collection. 20 June to 15 Dec. 10am night of 31 Oct. Inspired by the legendary Contemporary art exhibit in Lucca's Casermette to 8pm. €6. www.guccimuseo.com Lucida Mansi. (on the Walls), 6 Nov. to 28 Dec.
CINEMA MEETINGS AND TALKS
FAIRS, SAGRAS, OUTDOOR EVENTS
COMING UP
della Fratta 22, 55100 ~ Lucca tel 0583/953828 - Closed TuesdayVia Ammodonostro Ristorante
In the heart of Lucca's Centro Storico, between Piazza San Francesco and Piazza Anfiteatro,
you will find the restaurant Ammodonostro. A new, young, friendly eating place
where it will be our pleasure to create and offer you dishes of the highest quality.
At lunchtime, there are daily specialities - simple and quick - in addition to the menu.
Bookings welcomed.
www.ristoranteammodonostro.it [email protected]
This restaurant can accommodate individuals on gluten free diets
Live Jazz Nights
Thursdays:18 April23 May20 June
9pm to midnight
Reservations requestedSee our Facebook page:
Ristorante Ammodonostro
Live Jazz Nights
Italian Language Cafe
Learning a language
servic-ing the UK with regular trips every 2-3weeks
Yoga Classes in English
on 2nd Thursday of ev-ery month at 1600, at San Luca Palace Hotel barin Via San Paolino, Lucca. Starts 12 September.More details from [email protected](Ref. 983)
doesn't have to be endlessgrammar exercises! Learning Italian (or English)with me is fun and focuses on the spoken lan-guage. Lessons in person or via Skype. Ex UKuniversity languages lecturer, contact me via mywebsite www.susangirellihill.eu (Ref. 988)
.
Experienced instruc-tor offering classes in centro storico. All arewelcome. For information: 331 8346850. (Ref.982)
Removals Local, National, European,
Full professional packing and exportwrapping service. Friendly, experienced, pro-fessional Kiwi service. Contact Richard [email protected] or 340 8748222(Ref. 771)
Advertisers may include their own tele-phone or email. Where these are notincluded, readers may contactGrapevine for referral.
salone
salone
(secolari),metato,
termocamino
S. Ginese di Compito
Historic 15-room home
Large stone house
Sunny and spacious
Fully renovated classic villa
Newly-built homes
Peaceful country villa
New home
Large, well-maintained
Country home
Sardinia near Tempio Pausania
Compitese hills olivegrove
Panoramic village
Old stone home
Translations
Private Italian classes
Landscape design & Garden
Bilingual repairs/consulting team:
Childcare
Big old stone 19th cen-tury house with beams and cotto to renovate. 180sqm, courtyard. Contact Grapevine. (Ref. 903)
with stunning viewsover the gracious Tuscan hill town of Barga, 30minutes from Lucca. A lively center of the artswith celebrated jazz and opera festivals, extraor-dinary restaurants, cafés and shops. Set in a pri-vate compound at the town's summit, surroundedby walled garden and an enormous terrace abovea 13th century convent with development poten-tial. Main buildings include 4 baths and 2 kitch-ens. Operated profitably as a seasonal rental prop-erty since 1999. Legally certified for use as bed-and-breakfast. Work six leisurely months, and letyour dreams frame the rest of the year. For fur-ther detail contact Grapevine (Ref. 997)
1½ km north of Collodi,built in the 1960's. Recently re-roofed. Groundfloor, on either side of the central stairway, con-tains two large rooms (approx. 60 sqm each)suitable for future use as garages, shops, ormini-apartments. The upstairs floor, with win-dows facing in 3 directions and a terrace alongthe east side of the house, has a kitchen, bath-room, living room and 3 bedrooms, for a totalof approximately 130 sqm. The garden is morethan 1000 sqm and although it is on a road, canbe sheltered by fencing or shrubs. Plenty ofroom for gardening and swimming pool.Asking price 250,000 euros. (Ref. 996)
stone village home inCollodi, 18 km. from Lucca walls. 2 to 3 bed-rooms, 2 1/2 baths, cook’s kitchen, large salonwith a fireplace, this house has it all! 175,000 euro.Olive grove available too, but separate. (Ref. 764)
with 3 guest unitsand pool, set in a breathtaking location walkingdistance from the historic centre of Barga. Thevilla totals 600sqm. of living space. Mainhouse: 5 bedrooms, 4 bathrooms, high spec
kitchen, dining room, sitting room, familyroom, study/playroom, laundry room. 1st guestapartment – 2 bedrooms, 1 bathroom,kitchen/dining room, sitting room w/ wood burn-ing fireplace. 2nd guest apartment – 1 bedroom,bathroom, sitting room with wood pellet stove,kitchen/dining room. Large private terrace withviews. 3rd guest apartment – Studio apartmentwith full size kitchen, large private terrace withviews. There are well-defined shaded areas,flower beds, lawns, vegetable garden, parkingand pool with panoramic view. The asking priceis €1,500,000.Any reasonable offer will be con-sidered for a quick sale. (Ref. 985)
near center of Bagni diLucca, to be finished to buyer specifications,each with 1000 sqm of land, offering space fora swimming pool. One, 270 sqm on two levels,with garage €450,000. Second, 300 sqm onthree levels, generous-sized living and diningrooms, with garage. Overlooking the villagechurch. Bedroom doors open onto scenic ter-races, marble stairs indoor and stone steps out-doors. €600,000 (Ref. 991)
of 215sqm, in theCompitese hills with 2 hectares of fruit and ol-ive trees: 2 homes with 2 separate entrances,one 3 bedrooms 3 baths, the other 3 bedrooms 2baths. Beautifully furnished kitchens and fire-places. Both in traditional Tuscan style withquality building materials. Enclosed 2-car ga-rage, plenty of outdoor parking, gated property,outdoor pizza oven, scenic terraces, plenty ofspace for a pool. Furnishings available; readyto move in condition. Contact Grapevine. (Ref.867)
10 minutes from Bagni di Luccawith breathtaking view of Pratofiorito. 300sqm with 3000 sqm of cleared land. On 3 lev-els. €600,000. Ideal for an extended family orjust peace and quiet, enjoyment of nature butwith a fine restaurant at walking distance. To befinished according to your desires. (Ref. 992)
home for sale in thetown of Camporgiano (30 minutes north ofLucca), with 4 bedrooms. Built in the 1920's.256 sqm, independent on 4 sides. €230,000 orbest offer. (Ref. 989)
5 km south of Lucca. On two lev-els, 200 sqm, two apartments lovingly restoredthat can be used as one home or separately.Terracotta and oak floors, high beamed ceilings,several fireplaces, 2 bathrooms, 3-4 bedrooms(one 40 sqm with fireplace) and a huge com-pletely furnished kitchen. Beautiful south-facingterrace and garden with space for a swimmingpool. Country lane meandering towards the hills.An excellent restoration, not too isolated, idealfor professionals, families or a couple wanting tostart a bed and breakfast. Contact Grapevine forconfidential negotiations. (Ref. 960)
large pan-oramic villa in a cork oak grove, 360 sqm on 2 lev-els. 1st: large with fireplace, archway, 2bedrooms, bath, kitchen, storeroom, cantina. 2nd:large with fireplace, live-in kitchen, 4 bed-rooms, 2 baths, service bath. Surrounding land2300 sqm. Confidential negotiations. (Ref. 929)
: Panoramic terraced, 3300 sqm. Approx. 200 trees
with 45 sqm stone water and somegrapevines and fruit trees. €40,000 OBO. (Ref.996)
home for rent by the week.3-bedroom, 1 bath, renovated (parts are fromthe year 1448!) stone house with terra-cottafloors, beamed ceilings and wood-fired
in a small village near Coreglia,30 minutes by car from historic Lucca. 450 m.in altitude. Available for 380 euros a week inlow season (mid-September to mid-May).Ideal for 1 to 6 people. Biking, trekking, cook-ing (there is a grocery in the village), or justbreathing the air. (Ref. 990)
in a Compitese village. Forrent beginning in January, just 20 minutes'drive from Lucca Centro. 3 bedrooms (2 dou-ble, one single), bath, kitchen with large fire-place, wooden beams, terra-cotta floors, beau-tiful views, peaceful garden. Approx. 130 sqm.Furnished. €750 per month (8 month mini-mum). (Ref. 993)
Italian to English and English toItalian by experienced mother-tongue transla-tor. Contact Grapevine (Ref. 817)
Italian woman, speaksfluent English, offers individual/group lessons.Beginners, intermediate, advanced. Help withinterpreting and assistance with relocating. Cantravel from Lucca. Anna Cell. 347 [email protected] (Ref. 267)
[email protected] \ www.luccalandscape.it Tommaso ph (+39) 349 284 5399.(Ref. 572)
electron-ics, home machines, electrical, computer prob-lems, doors, locks, bills, utilities... What wecan't fix, we refer to other professionals. Endyour headaches. Inexpensive, reliable. ContactGrapevine. (Ref. 895)
Qualified with 12 years experiencewith 0-5 year olds. English mother tongue, alsospeaks French. Available from October 1st.Flexible hours. References available on request.Contact Hannah. [email protected] (Ref.987)
Italian Language Cafe
Learning a language
Yoga Classes in English
on 2nd Thursday of ev-ery month at 1600, at San Luca Palace Hotel barin Via San Paolino, Lucca. Starts 12 September.More details from [email protected](Ref. 983)
doesn't have to be endlessgrammar exercises! Learning Italian (or English)with me is fun and focuses on the spoken lan-guage. Lessons in person or via Skype. Ex UKuniversity languages lecturer, contact me via mywebsite www.susangirellihill.eu (Ref. 988)
Experienced instruc-tor offering classes in centro storico. All arewelcome. For information: 331 8346850. (Ref.982)
Removals Local, National, European,
Full professional packing and exportwrapping service. Friendly, experienced, pro-fessional Kiwi service. Contact Richard [email protected] or 340 8748222(Ref. 771)
PROPERTY FOR SALE
PROPERTY FOR RENT
LESSONS, TRANSLATIONS &COURSES
SERVICES/WORK
VARIOUS
servic-ing the UK with regular trips every 2-3weeks.
A
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12 - October 2013 G ERAPEVIN
VIA ACQUACALDA
tel 0583/496920
(opposite the Cantoni factory)
Vast selection of second-handfurniture, clothes, toys, videos, etc.
House clearance - Removals
Open 10.00-12.30 / 15.30-19.30CLOSED MONDAY
www.mercatinousatolucca.itOn-line sales
Visit our store on eBayand our page on Facebook
Advertising with GrapevineClassified advertisements in Grapevine cost aslittle as €10 for 3 months (rate automatically cal-culated using on-line form). VAT included.
[email protected]@domotikashop.it
220 mins. from Lucca, Tuscany, the six apartments in this historic 14th century building share 17,000 m of beautifully landscaped property, with individual areas for outdoor entertaining and a 6 x 12 mt. pool for all to share.
Perhaps its most charming aspect is 250 olive trees shared amongst the owners.
For more information, please contact us at: [email protected] or, +39 0583 330867 (owner contact)Or, visit our website for more information on this or other Anderò srl properties in Tuscany at:
il Borghettoin San Gennaro
2 SOLD
ONLY
4 LEFT
GRAPEVINE October 2013 - 13
Missed the crossword, markets or professional listings? They’ll be back next month!
Il Cerchio VerdeDesign and installation gardens terraces and watering systems
Garden maintenanceTypical Tuscan gardens
tel 0583 316713Simone 335 [email protected]
Contact 0583 909012
20 Mbps Download and 6Mbps Upload - available to everyone
Stream BBC iplayer and On demand TV!
No. 0 OCTOBER 1994 FREE
WHAT'S ON IN LUCCA THIS MONTH
Lucca - Change S. r.l.CAMBIAVALUTE
Via V. Veneto, 15 - 55100 LuccaTel. e Fax (0583) 495726
EXCHANGEWECHSEL
CHANGECAMBIO
Open every day(including Sunday)
from 9 a.m. to 7.30 p.m.
THE GUARDS ARE
COMINGCeltic pipes & drums
FROM RUSSIAWITH LOVE
Chernobyl childrenin Lucca
CHESTNUTS OLD& NEW
The Garfagnana tradition
Editorial ContentsThis is the first issue of GRAPEVINE, a monthlyguide in English to what's on in Lucca and thesurrounding area.There is a lot going on in this areabut finding out about it is not always easy and candepend on picking up a leaflet by chance in a hotelreception area or spotting a poster in town. Now thevisitor to Lucca can find information collectedtogether as never before.GRAPEVINE is not just a list of events andactivities. The articles reflectmany different aspectsof local life and news and are not limited just toitems of traditional tourist interest.We believe that a monthly of this kind, which looksat Lucca with a different eye from that of establishedlocal publications, will be of interest not only topeople passing through this area but also to thosewho live here permanently.Although GRAPEVINE has done its best to ensureall information carried here is reliable we canaccept no responsibility for any errors orinconvenience caused by them. We will of coursebe grateful for any corrections and for additions tothe information given.
CHIEF EDITOR (Direttore Responsabile):Giuseppe Brandani
ADDRESS FOR CORRESPONDENCE: Via Francesconi2, San Ginese di Compito, Lucca
TELEPHONE/FAX: 0583 909012 or 0584 956201Printed by Tipo-Lito MODERNOGRAFICA
Lucca - Tel. 950265
Per pubblicità sui prossimi numeri di questo giornale siprega di telefonare allo 0583 909012 o allo 0584 956201For publicity in GRAPEVINE please telephone 0583909012 or 0584 956201
The Guards Are ComingCeltic colour in Tuscany
Food & WineRestaurant & Wine of the Month
Chestnuts Old and NewTraditions from the Garfagnana
What's On This MonthConcerts, sagras, events
October HighlightsCartoons and old organs
From Russia with LoveChernobyl children come to Lucca
CuttingsOdd bits of local news
Useful InformationOpening times, monuments,telephone numbers
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After the highly successful tour of the Country of Operatic Music, the Country, happy and proud to have the Scots andGordon Highlanders Band, Drums and as Byron wisely remarked,"where anybody Irish Guards in Lucca this year even if, IPipes last year, Lucca is ready to welcome sings anywhere and anyhow"! We will, of have to confess, I am already thinkinganother great British military band. course, have the skirl of the original Celtic ahead to 1995, when the Bands will beInstead of the wild and rainy Highlands, pipes as usual and all the most famous back, this time accompanied by the Pipesthe guests, thi s time, will be coming from British marching tunes and I' m sure some and Drums of the Scots Guards too. Eighty-London, despite having pure Scots blood of these marches (such as COLONEL five wonderfulmusicians will perform herein their veins. The Regimental Band of the BOGEY , THE MINSTREL BOY, RULE next September, making Lucca 's mostScots Guards , the famous "Gulf War BRITANNIA and SCOTLAND THE special month even more special.Heroes" (decorated both by the UN and BRAVE) will stir the audience much morethe Queen for having set up a field hospital than the Toreadors and the Poor Jewish ANDREA COLOMBINIwhere wounded troops from both the Allied Slaves lament for their far Homeland!and the Iraqi troops were treated - soldiers No doubt, the Scots and the Irish guardsfirst, musicians second) will , in fact, be the will be as impressive as when they play inguest band in Lucca for 1994. Replying to front of Buckingham Palace, attracting Tickets will be available at 20 ,000
lire from the ticket office on the nightbut it is probably a good idea to getyours in advancefrom the record shopSimonetti & Lencioni in Via S. Croce ,Lucca
an official invitation made by the thousands of people each morning. And noPhilharmonia Arts Society of Lucca, doubt, the audience will leave LuccaLieutenant Colonel David Price, Director Palasport on the night of the 12th, alreadyof Music of the Scots Guards and Senior looking forward to seeing them again onDirector of Music of the Household the night of the 18th.Division, has agreed to come to Italy, As Chairman of the Philharmonia, I amgiving his men the chance to spend nineexciting days in the Land of Sunshine.Lucca will be the base of a regional tourwhich includes concerts in Livorno ,Montecatini, Pisa and Viareggio. The firstand the last shows (all marching displays,in full "Guards blood" style) will be inLucca, at the Palasport on the 12th and the18th October 1994.The enthusiasm aroused by the GordonHighlanders made the Philharmonia askLieutenant Colonel Price to bring a pipeband with the Regimental Band. As thePipes of the Scots Guards are on tour inNorthern Ireland, the choice fell upon theIrish Guards Pipes and Drums, a dashinggroup of twenty musicians with anunforgettable sound.So the best name for the show might havebeen CELTIC PAGEANT had I notreali sed, on lookin g through theprogramme, that the music chosen by theDirector of Music (in accordance withPipe MajorMartin, Irish Guards, and DrumMajorJackson,Coldstream Guards, SeniorDrum Major, the Household Division) didnot come exclusively from Ireland orScotland. "Carmen", "Nessun Dorma"and "Va pensiero" from Verdi 's Nabuccoare the classical gifts of the Band to the The Queen Mother presents mascot to the Irish Guards.
October's Restaurant: La Mea
"La Mea"'s prices are very reasonable andyou can expect to spend between 25,000and 30,000 lire including wine.
"La Mea" is situated at Valpromaro on theroad to Camaiore, roughly half-waybetween Lucca and Camaiore. It is both arestaurant and small hotel witheight doublebedrooms. This converted mill was openedin 1969 and takes its name from the localityitself. Rino Bonucelli is the cook and healso runs the place with his brother, hissister, his sister- in-law and his nephew. Inpeak season they employ two waiters togive the family a hand.They have severa l specialities whichdepend on the season. The pasta all 'arrab-biata (pasta covered with a hot tomatosauce) is unrivalled, while the rice andmushrooms are my personal favourite.Otherfirst courses include tordelli di carne
(pasta stuffed with meat with a bolo-gnese sauce) and ravioli con la ricot-ta (ravioli stuffed with soft cheese)which are both made with home-made pasta. Pigeon, rabbit and roastlamb (delicious) are standard maincourses and wild boar, during thehunting season, is available as bothfirst and main courses.Amongst La Mea's regular clientsare three German families who havebeen eating there for the last tenyears and who even telephone to wish the children increased.owners a happy Christmas. One Englishfamily has been going there since it openedin 1969 and each year an extra place attable has had to be set as the number of
October's Wine: FubbianoOne weekend in September, for the benefit of our readers, we had to taste four different wines from the Fubbiano estate. It's a hardlife writing a wine column.We started on the Friday with the "Vino Del Piovano" (or "Priest ' s Wine"), thus called because it comes from a vineyard once ownedby the local church at San Gennaro. It is a li ght red wine which one of us thought had a slightly sharp initial taste but, as it developed,the flavour was definitely mellow, possibly reminiscent of incense. Signor De Andreis, the owner of the estate, assured us that thisis one red wine which can definitely be drunk straight from the fridge or even with ice in it.On Saturday the party we had been invited to was rained off so we stayed at home and drank our planned aperitif, the Fubbiano white,anyway. Fruity and dry and quite strong for a white (12%) it made a delicious start to the evening.
Sunday was reserved for the top wines, the red Villa di Fubbiano and SanGennaro. As these are "crus", the grapes for each of these wines comes fromonly one vineyard. Both wines are rather strong (12.5%) and comepredominantly from San Giovese grapes. Their full body and clean but richtaste makes them an ideal foil for red meats, game and full flavouredcheeses.Sig De Andreis also produces a "novello" wine called Fubbianello whichwe're looking forward to tasting at Christmas as an accompaniment to ourroast chestnuts.The above wines (all D.O.C) may be tasted at the Fattoria di Fubbiano, SanGennaro Tel: 978011 where they are also for sale along with other farmproduce such as olive oil, jams and preserves. Prices for a bottle of wine startat around 6,000 lire.
CLASSICAL MUSIC
2 October - 9.15 p.m. - MONTE SAN QUIRICOMonte San Quirico churchMisty Schaffert (from Chicago, USA)Eighteenth century German andItalian organ music6 October - 9.15 p.m. - LUCCA - San Filippo churchBurkhard Engelke (from Bremen, Germany)Renai ssance organ music9 October - 9.15 p.m. - LUCCA - San Pietro Somaldi churchCees van der Poel (from Huizen, Holland)Organ music by Malvezzi, Franck, Gherardeschi12 October - 9.15 p.m. - LUCCA - PalasportRegimental Band of the Scots GuardsPipes and Drums of the Irish Guards15 October - CAMIGLIANO -Villa Guinigi BruguierLi Stromenti wi th Gianluca Lastraioli16 October 9.15 p.m. - MONTE SAN QUIRICOMonte San Quirico churchNicola Reniero (from Vicenza)Organ music by Gabrieli , Zipoli, Scarlatti18 October - 9.15 p.m. - LUCCA - PalasportRegimental Band of the Scots GuardsPipes and Drums of the Irish Guards30 October - 9.15 p.m. - LUCCA - Sorbano del Vescovo churchRiccardo Berutto, Dinorah AbelaDelia Barra, Luca LorenzettiOrgan music by Haydn, Guami, Santucci
ROCK MUSIC
1 October - LUCCA - Casina Rossa discothequeSeventies and eighties underground/garage6 October - LUCCA - Orazio Discobar (along the Serchio riverleft at Monte S. Quirico)Fletcher Blues Band8 October - LUCCA - Casina Rossa discothequeDeejay AMADEUS13 October - LUCCA - Orazio DiscobarMeme Lucarelli (from the group Mediterraneo): blues, cabaret20 October - LUCCA - Orazio DiscobarPigreco: Tribute to Stevie Ray Vaughan Arts and crafts market
I
What's on27 October - LUCCA - Orazio DiscobarRapsodia (a touch of Marillion, Bryan Adams, Queen... )Every Friday - MARLIA - Il CapannoneLive rock and blues from 11 p.m. onThursdays & Saturdays - MASSAROSA - Zig ZagThursdays house band and Sundays local group
EVENTS & EXHIBITIONS
2 October - CASTIGLIONE DI GARFAGNANALivestock and cattle show8 - 30 October - PIETRASANTA- Sala Putti, S. Agostino centre
Pier Augusto Vannelli retrospective9-11 October - BARGA-Castelvecchio PascoliSan Remo Rally13-14 October - LUCCANational ornithological show15 - 16 October - BARGA - Castelvecchio di Pascoli"Eight Hours at Il Ciocco" Enduro rally15-17 October - LUCCA - Palasport, Piazza Aldo MoroMushroom show15-16 October - LUCCA - Piazza San MartinoAntique market15-16 October - LUCCA-Piazza dell'ArancioArt fair16 October - 8.30 a.m. - SAN PIETRO A VICO10th San Pietro marathon23 October - 3.30 p.m. - LUCCAGuided tour of Lucca's historic organsMeeting place: Via delle Tagliate carpark,near Porta San DonatoSmall bus provided. Own car recommended.29 October - 1 November - LUCCA - PalasportComics show and Lucca Games29-30 October - LUCCA - Piazza San Giusto
this monthLOCAL FESTIVALS
1 - 2 October - TOFORIGrape harvest festival
Wine, cakes and entertainment from 4 p.m. on Saturday
and all day until 8 p.m. Sunday
2,9,16,23,30 October - FABBRICHE DI VALLICOMulled wine and chestnuts
23 October - GRAGNANOVIth roast chestnuts and chestnut flan festivalExhibition of mushrooms
23 or 30 October - GIGNANO DI BRANCOLI(Date depends on when the chestnuts fall )
Free ches tnuts boiled with salt and fennel
Loca l wine
30 October - PIAZZA AL SERCHIOC hestnuts, new wine and live music
30 October - MOLAZZANARoast chestnuts, chestnut fritters and local wine
30 October - BARGA - Ponte all 'AniaRoast chestnuts
THEATRE AND OPERA
LUCCA - TEATRO DEL GIGLIO8 October 8.45 p.m.9 October 4.30 p.m.10 October 8.45 p.m.MACBETH by Giuseppe Verdi
22, 25 October 8.45 p.m.
23 Octobe r 4.30 p.m.
MADAME BUTTERFLY by Giacomo Puccini
29 October 9 p.m.
Seventieth anniversary of Giacomo Puccini deathConcert with the Orchestra of the Giglio Theatre
27 - 30 October - PISA - TEA TRO VERDIIl Paradiso degli EsuliNew opera based on "U na città proletaria"
by Athos Bigongiali
Music by Bruno De Franceschi
CINEMA
Films in original language version
PISA - A RSENALE CINEMASWAN SONG (dir. Kenneth Branagh)(shown with RASOI by Mario Martone)
4 October; 4.30 p.m ., 5 October 6.30 p.m.
6 October 8.30 p.m., 7 October 10.30 p.m.
& 12 October 10.30 p.m.
MUCH ADO ABOUT NOTHING (dir. Kenneth Branagh)13 October 8.30 p.m., 14 October 6.30 p.m.
THE REMAINS OF THE DAY (dir. James Ivory)19 October 10.30 p.m ., 20 Octobe r 8.30 p.m.
20 October 8.30 p.m ., 2 1 October 6 .30 p.m.
ALADDIN (Walt Disney)26 October 10.30 p.m., 27 October 8.30 p.m.
28 October 6.30 p.m.
Games, Comics and La Dolce VitaOne of the special attractions of thismonth' s LUCCA COMICSexhibition is a series of originalcartoons by Federico Fellini, one ofItaly's greatest film directors, whodied in October last year. Thedirector of such masterpieces as"Satyricon", "Amarcord" and "LaDolce Vita" was also a fan of stripcartoons and the work on show (onthe premises of the FondazioneRagghianti) dates back to the 1930sand 1940s.
To be seen on the same premiseswill be 80 original drawings (someof which have never before beenshown in public) by Milo Manara,the most famous Italian cartoonist(along with Hugo Pratt) and a closecollaborator of Fellini' s.In the main exhibition area at thePalasport, enthusiasts will be ableto glance through (and buy) booksby some of the big names incartoonpublishing such as Star Comics,Bonelli and Marvel. A collector's
paradise.LUCCA GAMES, now in its thirdyear and held in conjunction withCOMICS, hosts the final of thegrand prix of the Italian WargameFederation and the lucky winnerbecomes Italian champion ofAncient and Mediaeval Wargame.
LUCCA COMICS29 October to 1 November 1994Palasport , Lucca
RediscoveringLucca's ancient organsLucca's rich heritage of church organs is being given a new leaseof life thanks to the enthusiasm of the "Domenico Di LorenzoAssociation" named after one of the most important and illustriousorgan builders of the late fifteenth century.Domenico Di Lorenzo, from Lucca, was sought after by courtsand church councils all over Italy and his craftsmanship was putto use in Pisa, Lucca, Siena and Lodi. He was even summoned byPope Giulio II to build the organ for the Vatican basilica of St.Peter's . Although this organ sadly no longer exists, it was in itstime played and composed on by Frescobaldi. Di Lorenzo built theorgan for Lucca's San Martino cathedral, an organ which wasreplaced by a modem instrument in 1959, but fortunately thephonic material of the original instrument was conserved and isnow stored in the cathedral. A renewed appreciation of these oldinstruments has meant that in the last few years five importantorgans have been restored in the Lucca area and we will be ableto hear these in the series of concerts organised for this October.For details see page 6.
I
From Russia with loveChernobyl children come to Lucca
On Wednesday 7th September a dinner washeld at " Ai Diavoletti", a restaurant inCamigliano, some 10 kilometres east of Lucca.Around one hundred people ate, drank andlistened to music pl ayed by ViktoriaDobriscevscaia and Prof. Mauro Fabbri. Theformer was accompanied by Lena Sckliar whoplayed piano, sang and danced in turn. Whatwas behind it all and why had so many membersof the public gathered there? The evening hadbeen organized by Giuseppe Lardieri. Thereason being Gomel, a city the size of Florencepopulated by 600,000 people.Gomel lies some 120 kilometres north ofChernobyl where, on 26th April 1986, thebiggest nuclear incident in history took place.Eight years have since passed. In that time theSoviet Union has been dissolved and the fifteenindependent republics which emerged as a resultare facing grave economic crises, ethnic conflictand volatile political change.Chernobyl - the backgroundIt has been estimated - based on the Hiroshimaincident - that a total of 15,000 people have diedfrom the effects of the Chernobyl fallout. Themost vulnerable group affected was pregnantwomen, newly born babies and small children .Today 2,600,000 Belorussians (one fifth of thepopulation) live in one of the most affectednuclear fall-out areas. The majority have cesium137 in their bodies which emits dangerousa m o u n t s o f r a d i o a c t i v i t y . T h e m o s tdisconcerting fact, however, according to Raf-faele De Vit, head of the Italian organisation"Chernobyl Protection Programme", part ofthe European Nuclear Energy Agency, is that itis not the cesium absorbed eight years agoimmediately after the disaster that is nowcontaminating the organism, because in sixmonths the organism eliminates it. Thecontamination evident now is due to actualfood. The local inhabitants of the area continueto feed themselves on milk, meat and vegetables
Viktoria Dobriscevscaia playing pianoaccompanied by Lena Sckliar
produced and grown in earth loaded withradioactive substance. In this way cesium isreabsorbed into the body.From 1986 to 1992 the dramatic increase incases of thyroid tumours in the region of Gomelhas gone from 0.24% to 15%. All illnessesconnected to the thyroid have increased: 52cases of goitre, 38 of adenoma, 118 cysts,16,865 of thyroid hyperplasia. One child in fivehas an overactive thyroid. Of the 32,780 childrenfrom Gomel who have been seen by theInstitute 's paediatrician for different symptoms,only 241 have been found to be in perfecthealth. Compared to 1986, there has been anincrease in leukaemia , malfunctioni ngendocrine, damage to th e hypophysisconseq uently hindering growth, anaemia andcardiovascular and intestinal illnesses haveincreased one and a half times. Lung associatedillnesses have doubled. There has been a hugeincidence of headaches and of bones causingpain. Children are being born with deformities:large skulls , without limbs, with hare lips.The Italian ResponseThe Italian National Research Council (CNR)has organized collaboration and researchbetween its own Medicina Sperimentale andKiev 's Medical Centre of Radiation. This workhas led to the publication of a volume ofstudiesand data collected by both parties titled: "Openproblems of human radiob iology: post-Chernobyl".The Kiev Centre has been active since 1stOctober 1988 and originally had about 60personnel from all over the ex-USSR. Nowthere are almost 2000 medical and researchpeople working there. Before the existence ofthe Centre, the work was covered by firemen,scientists and the military. It is estimated that ofthe 181,000 Ukrainians who helped after theaccident, 17,000 have suffered side-effects inone form or another and 30% are disabled.Lucca families helpOf the 530,000 children from Belorussia whoare victims of Chernobyl, only 40,000 havebeen able to enjoy a stay abroad. Voluntaryoganisations in the Lucca area have been amongthose offering hospitality to children from thecontaminated area and more specifically fromthe town of Gomel. In Gomel there is nogovernmental or central organizing body tohelp the victims of contamination. An estimated30% of the population has left the town. Thosewho have stayed have done so because theyhave no other choice.At the dinner in Camigliano, there were half adozen children from Gomel and surroundingvillages. The children represented just a few ofthose hosted by Italian families this summer.In 1992, 100 children arrived in the Lucca area;in 1993 400. In 1994, for the period May-October, 900 were expected. The majority werehealthy children. Those that were ill wereentrusted to families that specifically requestedthem. There is no direct financial backing bygovernment bodies and the enterprise is run byfamilies, personal contact, the church, lay peopleand voluntary workers.In 1993, of the 400 children who arrived, 50were ill. Some, who had facial malformations,stayed in Milan where they were treated over aperiod of four months. Others were sufferingfrom either intestinal or thyroid tumours. Aperiod ofstay with a fami ly reduces the amount
of radioactivity absorbed by up to 50% andallows the immune system to repair itself.Some who were treated here have beenpronounced cured. One boy who had developedbreasts received medical attention and theydisappeared. Another boy had a tumour treatedand Russian doctors said the treatment actuallysaved his life. A child of 14 who had an intestinaltumour was operated on in Italy. He spent onemonth back in Russia and returned to Italy fora further six months for follow up treatment. Hewent on weekly trips to Pisa accompanied byhis mother. He is responding well. There are atleast three instances of children receivingtreatment in Italy who would not have survivedhad they remained in Russia. In Septemberfifteen children were due to be operated on inItaly. In August Professor Antonelli from Pisawent to Gomel and selected ten chi ldren tobring back for treatment. The majority weresuffering from thyroid cancer and at Pisa' smain hospital, Santa Chiara, four surgeonsoperated free of charge. The fo llow up treatmentcan last for one to two years.The children come from the Ukraine andBelorussia. The community of Altopasciooperates exclusively with Belorussia and inparticular with the city of Gomel. 70% of thechildren who come to Italy are chosen byvolunteers who go to Gomel personally. Poorerfamilies are put on the top of the list. Theremaining 30% are selec ted by Russianorganizations. The present aim is to expandcollaboration beyond Tuscany, Emi li aRomagna and the Veneto, where the mainvoluntary organisations operate. Further, plansare being made for medical equipment to reachGomel where the problem is not just the jack oftrained medical personnel, but of medicalinstruments and medicines.Those wishing to know more may contact:Comitato di accoglienza di Monte S. Quirico,Circoscrizione n.6 - Via per Camaiore,Monte S. Quirico, LuccaTel. 0583/442126orSig. Giuseppe Lardieri ,AltopascioTel. 0583/24131
VIA S. CROCE, 9TEL. e FAX (0583) 47576
LUCCA
CuttingsAn update of local news
I
The Ghost TownBy the end of August more than 250,000 people from Italy and from abroad had visited the'ghost town ' of Fabbriche di Careggine up in the mountains about 40 kilometres north ofLucca. This village was submerged in 1946 when the artificial lake of Vagli was created tofeed a hydroelectric dam and every ten years the lake is drained so that the dam can bemaintained and the stone ruinsof the townare revealed. Those who missed the spectacle thisyear had better make a note to come back to Lucca on their 2004 calendar.
ITHE TELEPHONE DIRECTORY
FOR LUCCA (code:0583)
EMERGENCY NUMBERSAmbulance 492333 or 494902 or 47713
SHOPS AND BANKSBanks:Open: 8.20 - 1.20 p.m.; 2.15 - 3.45 p.m.Monday to FridaySupermarkets: Main ones open 8 a.m. to 8p.m. Closed Wednesday afternoon.Food shops: 8 a.m. to I p.m.; 4 p.m. to 7.30p.m. Closed Wednesday afternoonsNon- food shops: 9 a.m. to 12.30 p.m. ; 4p.m. to 7.30 p.m. Closed Monday mornings
MARKETSLucca Wednesday and Saturday morningsBagni di Lucca Wednesday and SaturdayBarga Saturday Camaiore Friday morningCapannori Friday morningCastelnuovo Garfagnana ThursdayForte dei Marmi Wednesday morningPietrasanta ThursdayViareggio Thursday
ANTIQUE MARKETLucca, Piazza San MartinoThird weekend of each month
CarabinieriPoliceDoctor (Guardia medica)TRAVELLazzi busesCLAP busesRailway stationTaxis (piazza Napoleone)Taxis (railway station)Lucca airport (Tassignano)Pisa airportFlorence stationFlorence airportTOURIST OFFICESLuccaBagni di LuccaBargaCastelnuovo
112113
970300
584876587897
47013492691494989936062
050/500707055/288785055/373498
41968987946
723499644354
MUSEUMS IN LUCCA
Museo Nazionale di Villa GuinigiOpen: 9 a.m. to 2 p.m. Closed Mondays.
Entrance 4,000 lire.Free for E.D. citizens under 18 or over 60
Botanic gardensOpen: weekdays from 8 a.m. to I p.m.Entrance: 3,000 lire (adults), 1,000 lire(children)
Palazzo MansiOpen 9 a.m. to 7 p.m. weekdaysOpen 9 a.m. to 2 p.m. Sundays and holidays
Entrance 6,000 lireFree for E.D. citizens under 18 or over 60
Torre GuinigiOpen 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. (in October)
Entrance 4,500 lire (adults) ,3,000 lire (children)
Museo delta CattedraleOpen 10 a.m. to 1 p.m. and 3 p.m. to 6 p.m.
Closed MondaysEntrance: 5,000 lire (adults) ,
3,000 lire (children)
Museo PucciniOpen 11 a.m. to 1 p.m. and 3 p.m. to 5 p.m.
Closed MondaysEntrance: 3,000 lire
VILLASVilla Mansi, Segromigno in MonteOpen 9 a.m. to 1 p.m. and 3 p.m to dusk
Entrance 7,000 lire
Villa Reale, MarliaClosed on Mondays
Entrance: 5,000 lire
Villa Torrigiani, CamiglianoOpen 1 March - 5 November
Entrance: 7,000 lire
NIGHTLIFECasina Rossa discothèque,Ponte San PietroOpen: Friday, Saturday, Sunday evenings
Price: 15,000 men and lessfor women incl drink
Pianeta discotheque, AntraccoliOpen: Thursday 10. p.m. to 1.30 a.m.Friday, Saturday, Sunday 10.30 p.m. to 3a.m.Sunday afternoon 3 p.m. to 7 p.m.Price: men up to 22,000 and women 10,000
Ekò discotheque, LunataOpen Friday, Saturday, Sunday from 9 .30p.m.
Price: 20,000 men;15,000 women incl. drink
Mirò Via dei Fossi 215, LuccaDrinks, sandwiches and live music someevenings.
Closed Mondays
Alma Bamba Bar,Via per Camaiore, CappellaTropical cocktails & music.Open late Thursday to Sunday.
Gipsy Queen, CapannoriBeer, hamburgers & music.Closed Mondays
EMEROTECA
Few people know about the facilitiesoffered by the emeroteca at the VillaBottini. Maybe even fewer people knowwhat an emeroteca actually is. The wordcomes from the Greek "hemeros"(meaning "day") and "teca" (meaning"custody") and is, in fact, a magazine andnewspaper library.Not only does the emeroteca in the VillaBottini have all the Itali an dailynewspapers, lots of fascinating glossymagazines and even cartoons. It also has,of special interest to foreigners in Lucca,the latest editions of the "InternationalHerald Tribune", "The Times", "LeMonde" and "El Pais". It ' s open to thegeneral public so go and have a browsenext time you're in town.
Emeroteca, Villa Bottini ,Via Elisa,LuccaOpen Tuesday-Saturday 9 a.m. to 2 p.m.and on Tuesday, Thursday and Fridayfrom 3 to 6 p.m.
And that was then, 1994!
