TECHNOLOGY SELECTION CRITERIA

In the textile wet processing, major emphasis usually laid on productivity and quality, whereas energy and cost is considered as second priority. However due to the alarming increase in utility cost; maximum efforts should be given to minimize it. It will not only help us to achieve the lower operation costs but also helpful in standardizing the process and maintain the quality level.

STENTER

The automation of the machinery is the main aim for benchmarking in quality conscious market, which can be achieved through the fully automatic micro processor based PLC & process visualization. Micro processor based system provides maximum drying rates with lowest utility consumption. Heat recovery is installed on this system which gives additional energy saving up to 15 % on drying process & up to 30% on heat setting process. The weft straightner unit from mahlo is there to correct the bowing & unwanted skew from fabric .A residual moisture control system is provided to increase productivity & quality of fabric.

SHRINKAGE RANGE

The fully automatic computerized system should be used for even and perfect shrinkage of fabric through the length by adjusting automatic parameters.The tendency of cotton is that even moisture content before sanforise helps to shrink to fabric; we installed the fine sprinkle of water with air system from world’s best manufacture- WEKO, GERMANY.For assistance, the pick counter meter is used for perfection of shrinking of fabrics.

THE FINISHING RANGE (STENTER)

Machine Name : Stenter Manufacture : Monforts Textile machinery, GermanyNumber of Chamber : 10 Type : oil heated, pin Chain

ABOUT THE PROCESS

Entire finishing operation started with application of the finish chemical to the fabric and passage through stenter frame with uniform quality parameters like, temperature, nip pressure, residual moisture, temperature on the fabric, width, skewing/bowing.At the end of stenter, we get creaseless and final feel of fabric, which is used for sanforising.

The different processes which have been carried out using stenter are mainly-

Finishing : For all kind of fabrics to get desired feel and finish.Heat Setting : For poly/Cotton blends to heat set polyester part.Width Stretching : For crease removal of goods having crease.Drying Process : To dry the wetted goods.

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MACHINE PARTS AND ITS FUNCTIONS (FROM ENTRY TO EXIT)

1Adjustable Tension Device

To maintain tension of fabric.

2 Entry J-Box To accumulate the fabric intro J type scray to facilitate continuous operation during batch change.

3 E + L air guider Proper feeding of fabric to machine by guiding selvedge.

4 Padding Mangle The finishing chemicals are feed from overhead tank to the trough, auto level controller is provided to maintain level of chemical.

5 Squeezing Nip To squeeze out excess chemicals evenly from fabric for even and better penetration.

6 Weft straightener (Mahlo)

Fully automatic weft control system for skewing and bowing correction.

7 Over feeding roll device To achieve better dimensional stability throughout the fabric

8 Fabric feeding device Fabric selvedge is feed to chain track perfectly by using E+ L photocell type guider also provided with uncurling device to creaseless feeding.

9 Stentering frame This frame consists of 10 heated chambers provided with specific width adjustment through the all heating chambers.

10 Heating chamber It consist 10 oil heated chamber facilitated with auto temperature and humidity control valve where actual drying operation takes place.

11 Cooling fan system To cool down the fabric by means of blowing air through the nozzles.

12 Take off roller To taken out fabric from stentering frame by controlling tension of fabric.

13 Moisture control sensor Three number of sensor arrange weft wise for auto residual moisture control of fabric.

14 Cooling cylinder One watercoolled cylinder to cool down the fabric.15 Exit J-Scray It facilitate the continuous running of machine at

the time of batch change.16 Antistatic device Use for diffusion of antistatic charge developed

during the process.17 Traverse roll To avoid tapering of batch.18 Batching unit This is last part of machine and chain drive is

provided for uniform batching.

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SHRINKAGE

MACHINE : MONFORTEX SANFORISING RANGE

MANUFACTURER : MONFORTS TEXTILE MACHINERY, GERMANY

ABOUT THE PROCESS: Sanforizing is the process used for the preshrinking of the fabric, so as to prevent the shrinkage during its end use. In this process, fabric passes through the heated rubber cylinder in moist condition to achieve utmost shrinkage & then pass through the Palmer cylinder (polished steam heated cylinder wrapped with a woolen blanket) to heat set the fabric and to get smoothness & its final feel and appearance. The rate of the applied shrinkage decided on the basis of potential shrinkage, tested after finish.After the completion of the sanforizing process, samples have to send to quality assurance for testing, meanwhile confirming quality assurance approval by all aspects.

Finally, the goods are now delivered to the folding department without any non-conformity.

MACHINE PARTS & FUNCTION

1 Adjustable Tension Device

To maintain tension of fabric.

2 Entry J-Box To accumulate the fabric intro J type scray to facilitate continuous operation during batch change.

3 E + L selvedge guider Proper feeding of fabric to machine by guiding selvedge.

4 Fabric moisturizing unit It consists of weko unit, to give the fine sprinkle of water and a steaming cylinder with double jacketed steam for damping, both of which facilitated with auto control valve.

5 Fabric feeding unit Facilitate tension less feeding, with tension adjustable device for different weight quality.

6 Rubber unit Here fabric passes through heated rubber belt for compression, and actual shrinkage takes place in the same unit.

7 Palmer unit The fabric shrinkage stabilization done by here by the means of polished steam heated cylinder wrapped with woolen blanket.

8 Cooling cylinder Consists of two water cooled cylinder to cool down the fabric as it leaves the heated cylinder.

9 Exit J-scray Facilitate continuous running of the m/c during batch change.

10 Traverse roll To avoid tapering of the batch

11 Batching/plating unit Last part of the m/c provided with chain drive to assure proper batching/plating.

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PROCESS CONTROL PARAMETERS AT MONFORTS

QUALITY STEAM PRESSURE ( BAR) SPEED % MOISTURE

RUBBER UNIT PALMER UNIT ENTRY

SHIRTING (YARN/ PIECE

DYED)2+/-1 5+/-1 60 15+/-5

FULL WHITE SHIRTING 2+/-1 3+/-1 60 15+/-5

BOTTOM WEIGHT 3+/-1 5+/-1 50 15+/-5

COTTON/LYCRA 2+/-1 5+/-1 60 15+/-5

P/C BLENDS 2+/-1 5+/-1 60 15+/-5

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MONFORTS SHRINKAGE RANGE

MAINTENANCE(OPERATIONAL)

S.N. ACTIVITY DURATION

1 ENTRY J BOX AND FEEDING DEVICE CLEANING DAILY

2 STEAMING CYLINDER AND WEKO UNIT CLEANING DAILY

3 RUBBER UNIT/WATER SQUEEZE ROLL CLEANING DAILY

4 RUBBER BELT AND CYLINDER(SALT REMOVING)CLEANING DAILY

5 PALMER UNIT AND WOOLEN FELT CLEANING DAILY

6 COOLING UNIT AND EXIT J BOX UNIT CLEANING DAILY

7 ALL STEAM, AIR AND WATER VALVE CHECKING DAILY

8 RUBBER BELT SPRAY AND JACKET CLEANING FORT NIGHT

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QUALITY REQUIREMENT

QUALITY- THE UTMOST SATISFACTION OF CONSUMER.

The factors which are used to ensure the satisfactory or expected performance of textile articles during the use of consumer are quality requirements.

The specification on the fabric construction, being product specific is not discussed herewith. Only those connected with appearance and performance specifications and their standard test methods are dealt with.

Table given below shows a list of standards-----

Standards Abbreviation

American association of textile chemists and colorist AATCCAmerican national standards institute ANSI

American society for testing & materials ASTM

Australian standards ASTM

British standards institute BS

Deutsches institute of Normung DIN

International organization of standards ISO

International wool secretriate IWS

National standards of Canada CAN

COLOR FASTNESS

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During the end use, clothing is exposed to various agencies like, washing, dry cleaning, rubbing, perspiration, light, water, sea water, chlorinated sea water etc., which caused fading to the color, thus the color fastness property is very important.The rating for the color change gives a numerical assessment of how the color of the fabric under test changes in depth and tone, while the rating for color staining allows the extent of color transfer to an adjacent undyed fabric under the testing conditions.

DIMENSIONAL STABILITY

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For garments, dimensional stability is of paramount importance. Garments, during their wearing as well as washing/dry cleaning, should not shrink or elongate. The dimensional stability of a fabric or garment is assessed by simulating the wear and wash/dry-clean conditions of its use.

Table 3 :- Dimensional stability Tests

RESISTANCE TO PILLING

Pilling refers to the formation of piles on the fabric surface, which gives an unsightly appearance. It caused due to entanglement of fibres arising from fabric to fabric or fabric to other surface contact. Pilling appears during wear, washing or dry-cleaning. The cause of pilling is attributable to fibre Content, fabric construction and the imparted finish.

** FABRIC STRENGTH

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This Quality is assessed by measuring tearing force and breaking force of the fabric. Tearing and breaking strengths of fabric depends mainly on construction details and the finish Imparted to the fabric .

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For each direction of fabric:CLASS A: Body hugging garments; CLASS B: Stress subjected garmentsCLASS C: Other normal fitting garmentsCLASS D: Loose fitting garments

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