Spice Islands & Raja AmpatCAPTAINS VOYAGE LOG
VOYAGE NUMBER: 1016 > DEPARTING: 11 OCTOBER 2016 >
ARRIVING: 23 OCTOBER 2016 > TOTAL DISTANCE STEAMED: 1571 NM
CORAL DISCOVERER
Flag > Australia
Master > Gary Wilson
Mate > Dan Prockter Purser > Amy Tibbett
Expedition Leader > Jamie Anderson Guest Lecturers > Mark
Steadman
Bruce Pohlmann
Introducing The Spice Islands & Raja Ampat> NATURE
UNBLEMISHED
THE SPICE ISLANDS
The Spice Islands are a small group of islands to the North-East
of Indonesia, located between Celebes and New Guinea. Historically,
they were known for being the largest producers of mace, nutmeg,
cloves and pepper in the world. Now known as the Molucca Islands,
their Indonesian name is the Maluku.
Today, the Spice Islands, remain one of the most beautiful
archipelagos in Indonesia. Exotic, isolated and untouched, this
group of more than 1,000 islands is best explored by small
expedition ship.
Only now being discovered by tourism, guests to this pristine
area will hike in the shadow of conical volcanoes, meet villages
untouched by modern culture, and encounter an underwater ecosystem
unmatched anywhere in the world. Visibility can range up to 60
metres underwater and divers enjoy meeting rare and interesting
marine wildlife, such as the hairy squat lobster and enormous
Napoleon wrasse.
Exposure to outsiders is still a novelty to the local village
children, who spend as much time on the water in their homemade
boats as they do on land. Guests will see spices drying in
traditional baskets on rooftops, and coconuts dried by smoking.
RAJA AMPAT
The Indonesian archipelago of Raja Ampat lies in the Coral
Triangle, an area which stretches from The Phillipines to Timor to
Papua New Guinea. Considered to be one of the most biodiverse
marine habitats on earth, it boasts three quarters of the worlds
coral varieties. It is also known as the historical home of the
work of Alfred Wallace, whose philosophy is considered by many to
be of equal importance to Charles Darwins theory of evolution.
Raja Ampat is composed of four large islands, and hundreds of
tiny islands off the western corner of Papua, together amassing
over 1,500 islets. Marine diversity here is staggering, and
scientists describe the area as a species factory. In one
documented dive, a world record 374 fish species were spotted,
including jackfish and batfish. On land, guests might expect to see
a variety of lizards, snakes, tortoises and the elusive Red Bird of
Paradise.
Presently one of the worlds most untouched ecosystems, Raja
Ampat is nature in her finest moment. The best way to see this area
is by ship, pulling into little inlets along the way, and
disembarking to kayak, snorkel or dive. At present, this
breathtaking area is explored by only the most intrepid travellers
and diving enthusiasts.
Banda Island
Darwin
Misool
WayagGam
Biak
Cenderawasih Bay
Tuam Island
WEST PAPUA
SPICE ISLANDS
BANDA SEA
TIMOR SEA
ARAFURA SEA
RAJA AMPAT
DAY 1 11.10.16LOCATION: BIAK
IN GENERAL
We flew across the Arafura Sea on our way to West Papua, and on
to Biak at the entrance to Cenderawasih Bay. We were met at the
airport by the expedition team from the Coral Discoverer and loaded
into the waiting buses which took us to an historic hotel for
lunch. We were treated to an amazing cultural dance by the local
Biak dancers while listening to traditional music. The buses then
took us around Biak to the WWII cave system where over 3,000
Japanese Soldiers had died. The site was still littered with old
weapons and munitions from the war.
After cruising past the many sights and sounds of Biak, our bus
took us to the harbour area, and our waiting ship, the Coral
Discoverer. Captain Gary soon had us underway south into
Cenderawasih Bay. We had our mandatory safety drill and our Purser,
Amy, outlined emergency procedures before describing the day to day
operations of the ship.
Our Expedition Leader, Jamie, then introduced the expedition
team which included his assistant, Mark, along with Guest Lecturer
Bruce, and Dive Instructor James.
Then it was downstairs to grab our mask, snorkel and fins before
heading back upstairs for pre-dinner drinks and a chance to meet
our fellow expeditioners.
A beautiful seafood buffet greeted us in the dining room,
prepared by our two very talented chefs, Patrick and Steve.
LOCAL WEATHERWind WNW gentle breezeSeas SmoothSwell Low
ENEWeather Cloudy and hotBarometer 2hPa below seasonal ave in
evening
SUMMARY OF DAYS EVENTS1600 Guests board Coral Discoverer for
start of voyage 2100 Pass through Selat Miosnum, then into
Cenderawasih Bay Overnight passage towards Kwatisore
LOCAL WEATHERWind Calm and light airsSeas SmoothSwell Low
NEWeather Hot and cloudy Barometer 2hPa below by evening
SUMMARY OF DAYS EVENTS0730 View whale sharks aboard Zodiacs1345
Visit to the village 1600 Water activities aboard the Zodiacs1800
Masters Welcome Drinks
DAY 2 12.10.16LOCATION: CENDERAWASIH BAY AND KWATISORE
VILLAGE
IN GENERAL
This morning we all awoke early, excited about the chance to
swim with one of the true ocean giants, the Whale Shark. It wasnt
long before the announcement came that Whale Sharks had been seen
at the local bagan with its lift-nets. We very quickly ate
breakfast and prepared for our upcoming encounter with these
magnificent marine creatures. At just after 0700 we were heading
over to the bagan and were soon floating at the surface surrounded
by six huge Whale Sharks slowly swimming around just below our
fins. It was truly an awe-inspiring experience for everyone to see
these gorgeous animals so close.
After lunch we were off in the Xplorer to the nearby village of
Kwatisore, situated at the base of the jungle-festooned mountains.
The villagers welcomed us with a wonderful dance ceremony. There
was a Birds of Paradise dance as well as a special dance by an
amazing young boy who turned out to be the hero of the story. We
had an opportunity to pose for photos with the dancers before
excitedly looking up and down the rows of locally made arts and
craftsmany of us buying some beautiful pieces.
We then had a guided tour around this amazing village, meeting
some of the locals and photographing the children who followed us
around practising their English. Once aboard the Coral Discoverer
we grabbed our snorkel gear and headed out to the nearby coral reef
for a quick look at the marine creatures. At 1800 Captain Gary
welcomed us aboard with pre-dinner drinks up in the A Deck Lounge.
A lovely dinner was followed by the BBC documentary, Whale
Shark.
DAY 3 13.10.16LOCATION: CRUISING BIRDS HEAD PENINSULA
IN GENERAL
After a leisurely start to the morning our Guest Lecturer Bruce
gave a great presentation on the history of the Papuan people. Our
Indonesian guide, Oswald, then gave us an informative talk on
phrases we can use in the Bahasa language. Lunch was served then
Mark entertained us with his talk on coral reefs of Raja Ampat.
Next, some of us watched a very interesting documentary titled,
Equator, followed by Bruce giving his second lecture, An
Introduction to Raja Ampat. James met with the SCUBA divers in the
A Deck Lounge for a safety briefing, and before we knew it, it was
time for pre-dinner drinks again.
Another fantastic meal was followed by the documentary Wild
Indonesia Castaways. For many, this was a great day for relaxing,
reading and a bit of education on the side.
LOCAL WEATHERWind Calm and light airsSeas Becoming moderate head
seasSwell NW & Westerly lowWeather Cloudy throughoutBarometer
2hPa low on seasonal average
SUMMARY OF DAYS EVENTS0700 Memori to pass Mansinam and then
NW & WNW along coast1015 Crew and passengers practice safety
drill1200 Guests have lunch in the dining room1500 Guest Lecturers
and Dive Instructor
presentations throughout the afternoon
DAY 4 14.10.16LOCATION: WAYAG, RAJA AMPAT
IN GENERAL
The spectacular limestone karst system that makes up Wayag was
just incredible. After breakfast we were off in the Xplorer and
Zodiacs to explore the inner channels of this maze of islands. In
the Zodiacs we could get up close to the little islets and see the
bird life and vegetation. Some purple, pink and white orchids were
spotted, along with Feather Palms and Pandanus. Very interesting
were the antplants and the tree ant nests where some of us tasted
the acidic ants. We enjoyed a stop at a small protected beach for a
swim and an exploration of the beautiful white sandy beach. This
was a welcome stop, to cool down and relax after a morning of
exploration. Cake and fruit was served up for morning tea. We
eventually made our way back to the Coral Discoverer for a well
earned lunch.
Next, the Xplorer departed taking snorkelers, divers and walkers
to a nearby beach. The walkers climbed the steep slopes of the
highest peak (Mt Pindito) with Jamie and Oswald to take some
spectacular photos of the surrounding waterways of Wayag. Mark took
some guests for an exploration of the local coral reef on the
glass-bottomed boat.
Here we had some excellent views of a beautiful coral system
with a rich mix of soft and hard corals. Another group made full
use of the kayaks with Bruce to explore the local coastline. All
too soon the sun was heading for the horizon so we packed up and
headed back to the Coral Discoverer for pre-dinner drinks after a
full day exploring this beautiful area.
A lovely meal was followed by the documentary, Wild Indonesia
Underwater World.
LOCAL WEATHERWind SSW gentle breezeSeas ModerateSwell Short
westerlyWeather Cloudy and hotBarometer 2hPa low
SUMMARY OF DAYS EVENTS0700 Arrived at Wayag Lagoon0920 Lagoon
cruise aboard Zodiacs1330 Water activities including glass
bottom
boat and kayaking1740 Depart Wayag Lagoon
DAY 5 15.10.16LOCATION: ALJUI BAY & PENEMU
IN GENERAL
It was an early start for many of us this morning as we boarded
the Xplorer at Kawe Island for a cruise over the equator line at
sunrise. We landed on a narrow beach at the foot of the equator
monument, and as the early morning golden light bathed us, we were
able to get some great photos. Then we headed back to Coral
Discoverer as she travelled towards Waigeo Island for a chance to
swim at one of the most pristine coral reef systems found anywhere
Aljui Bay. Jamie and Oswald left in the Xplorer to meet with the
locals and to ask permission to swim here. Once granted, the divers
were quickly geared up and in the water, with the snorkelers just
behind them. We were greeted with the most amazing sight: thousands
of brightly coloured fish absolutely everywhere. It was hardly
possible to look in any direction without seeing scores of fish of
all colours. There was a great abundance of sponges, sea stars,
feather stars, Christmas-tree worms and many more invertebrates.
Some of us chose to have a Zodiac cruise with Jamie and Oswald,
seeing many species of forest birds as well as many plants such as
the carnivorous pitcher plant. As the divers eventually emerged
amid exclamations of seeing manta rays (again), everyone agreed
that the morning spent on this wondrous reef system would be
unforgettable.
By mid-afternoon we had steamed around to Pulau Penemu in the
Fam Group. A gap in the jagged limestone coastline allowed us to
enter a lagoon system and head over to a small hut occupied by some
locals where Oswald paid our entrance fee. Xplorer then took us
over to a small jetty where we landed below a lookout located on a
high pinnacle above us. We had to negotiate 320 stairs to reach the
peak, which gave stunning views of the surrounding limestone
Karsts. The azure coloured waters were a sight to behold. At 1700
it was time to head back to the ship in order to ready ourselves
for pre-dinner drinks. Tonight was succulent Roast Night, enjoyed
by all, and followed by the documentary, Wild Indonesia Magical
Forests.
LOCAL WEATHERWind Veering fresh SESeas ModerateSwell Low
SEWeather Partly cloudy and hotBarometer 3hPa
SUMMARY OF DAYS EVENTS0600 Xplorer to Equator monument0700
Passage to Aljui Bay0910 Water activities in Aljui Bay1230 Head
south to Pulau Penemu1950 Pass Yensawai village
DAY 6 16.10.16LOCATION: YENSAWAI & HIDDEN BAY
IN GENERAL
After an early breakfast we left the Coral Discoverer in one of
the three Zodiacs for a cruise along a mangrove-lined creek towards
a waterfall. The mangrove trees were very tall and overhung the
narrow waterway as we wound our way to a small jetty. From here it
was a 10-minute walk through the rainforest to a lovely little
waterfall where many of us dipped our feet to cool off. Once back
aboard the ship there was time for a quick cup of tea before
heading out again in Xplorer to a very colourful village called
Yensawai. Here we were greeted with what seemed like hundreds of
young children running around screaming and waving to us. They all
had the biggest smiles. We took a walk around the village noting
the school and all the houses painted in super bright colours. Once
Jamie presented the Headmaster with our gifts of school supplies
and soccer balls, we had a chance to buy some local handmade
gifts.
After lunch Mark gave another great lecture on coral reefs, this
time on all the different underwater creatures to be seen while
swimming. Then we all had a chance to snorkel, go kayaking or take
a glass-bottomed boat tour around Hidden Bay. It was another
beautiful spot surrounded by limestone karst.
There were surprisingly many Crown-of-Thorn starfish seen at
this reef system, our first we had seen. We learned, however, that
they are a natural part of the reef ecosystem. We were also
thrilled to see many little Nemos (clownfish) hanging about inside
their protective anemone. After almost two hours in the water it
was time to head back to the ship for sunset drinks up on the Sun
Deck. Here we witnessed a beautiful sunset, the sky being lit up in
gold, as we enjoyed our beers and bubbly, and good company.
Following another great dinner, tonights documentary was Bill
Baileys Jungle Hero Wallace in Borneo.
LOCAL WEATHERWind Calm with light SE breezesSeas SmoothSwell
Negligible Weather Partly cloudy, hot & humidBarometer Slightly
low on average
SUMMARY OF DAYS EVENTS0730 Zodiac excursions to creek and
waterfall0950 Board Xplorer to head to village tour1445 Enter
Sumlanjoko Bay1800 Sunset drinks on sundeck
DAY 7 17.10.16LOCATION: HIDDEN BAY & YENWAUPNOR
IN GENERAL
This morning we were anchored in the beautiful Kaibui Baysite of
the famous Wallace Passage. After breakfast about 25 of us decided
to try a drift snorkel through this passage. The current was
streaming through the narrow channel quite quickly so we all had to
be careful we didnt get too close to the rock edges. There was
certainly lots of colourful fish and corals to see, along with many
large sea fans stretching out as far as they could into the current
to catch passing food morsels. After an hour we were out the other
end of the passage, a little tired but definitely glad we
experienced this wonderful place.
Before lunch, Bruce gave another interesting lecture, this time
on Ethnicity and Religion of Raja Ampat. During lunch, Coral
Discoverer cruised over to nearby Yenwaupnor village. Here some
took the opportunity to go ashore and have a leisurely stroll
around the village with Bruce and Oswald. Meanwhile the rest of us
had a great snorkelling experience right off the wharf. Many reef
fish species were seen along with lots of giant clams and colourful
coral. Then, we had yet another highlight of the trip an amazing
welcome to the village of Yenwaupnor.
There were children dancing in the water as we walked down the
jetty past the flute and drum band. There were adults and children
both all painted up in traditional designs. The local band and
dancers provided us with some excellent entertainment and
eventually had most of the expeditioners up and dancing with them.
We were made to feel very welcome as we relaxed and enjoyed
afternoon refreshments with them. We were then led on conducted
tours through the well laid out village. Eventually the sun was
getting low so we headed back to the waiting Coral Discoverer and a
delicious dinner.
LOCAL WEATHERWind Calm with light SE breezesSeas SmoothSwell
Negligible Weather Partly cloudy, hot & humidBarometer Slightly
low on average
SUMMARY OF DAYS EVENTS0745 Board Zodiacs for Wallace Passage1045
Depart for Yenwaupnor1330 Water activities aboard Zodiacs1400
Depart for village aboard Xplorer
DAY 8 18.10.16LOCATION: YENWAUPNOR & MESEMTA
IN GENERAL
With darkness still cloaking the land, a keen group of
expeditioners left the Coral Discoverer and walked through the
village of Yenwaupnor and on into the darkness of the surrounding
hills. They reached a site deep in the forest where they could sit
and wait for the Red Bird of Paradise to appear and begin
displaying. They were rewarded with the sighting of three females
and as many as eight males resplendent in their long red tail
feathers. They put on quite a show as the males tried valiantly to
impress the females with calls and dances, often while hanging
upside. A little later on, a group of keen snorkelers were in the
water by 0700 and again enjoyed viewing some excellent marine life
under and around the wharf, including many giant clams. Breakfast
was definitely a welcome sight when we all returned to ship.
At 1000 Mark put on a presentation on the Wildlife of Wallacea,
and Bruce followed soon after with a talk on Ethnic Groups of
Papua. In the late afternoon we entered the spectacular Mesemta
Channel. We experienced a live drop where the Xplorer was dropped
into the water while Coral Discoverer was temporarily stopped.
We cruised through this narrow channel to a beautiful area
surrounded by tall karst limestone hills. We also had the
opportunity to photograph our ship as she steamed past on the way
to her anchorage. We enjoyed sunset drinks and a delicious BBQ on
the Sun Deck, followed by an amazing array of desserts. A great way
to finish the day.
LOCAL WEATHERWind Calm, with SE breezesSeas Smooth to
slightSwell Negligible Weather Cloudy, hot & humidBarometer
1-2hPa
SUMMARY OF DAYS EVENTS0645 Guests depart for early morning
snorkelling trip0815 Depart for Misool1620 Approach Mesemta1630
Guests board Xplorers for Mesemta1730 Sunset drinks and BBQ
onboard
DAY 9 19.10.16LOCATION: MISOOL ISLANDS, MESEMTA, &
WAGMAB
IN GENERAL
As the sun rose over the spectacular limestone karst islands, we
were keen to do some exploring of the area. Xplorer took us for an
exploratory cruise through the islands passing many pitcher plants,
Native Hoya (or Waxflower), palms and purple orchids. Even though
there was a short rain shower or two, we had wonderful views of the
coral during the low tide, with many corals actually exposed above
the water-line. Next it was time for our in-water exploration of
the area. We had the option of SCUBA diving, snorkelling, kayaking,
or glass-bottom boating. Everyone had a great time seeing so many
fish and brightly coloured corals.
Early in the afternoon we arrived at Wagmab with yet another
spectacular coastline to greet us. Once again the kayaks were made
available to take a trip with Jamie around the limestone islands.
Snorkelers were also quickly in the water with Bruce, as was a slow
cruise in a Zodiac with Mark and Oswald. Huge Hornbills were seen
flying overhead between patches of rainforest. This area was truly
a majestic placethe underwater marine life was exceptional.
Many species of large fishes were seen along with black and
white-striped Banded Sea Kraits. By 1700 it was time to pull up the
anchor and make our way south for the Banda Islands, known as the
Spice Islands, for our final days of exploration. Our documentary
tonight was Bill Baileys Jungle Hero Wallace in the Spice
Islands.
LOCAL WEATHERWind Lt Airs Seas Smooth to slight Swell Low ely
and selyWeather Clearing in the afternoon Barometer Remains low
SUMMARY OF DAYS EVENTS0730 Guests depart for early morning
Xplorer cruise1200 Depart for Wagmab1430 Board Zodiacs for water
activities in Wagmab inlet1700 Depart for overnight passage towards
the Spice Islands
DAY 10 20.10.16LOCATION: BANDA
IN GENERAL
Breakfast was enjoyed as we continued to steam towards the Spice
Islands. Bruce gave us a presentation Spice Islands What was all
the fuss about? to prepare us for our imminent exploration of
Banda. At 1000 we entered the Zonnegat Straits and as we approached
the narrows we were joined by two large canoes, called Kora Kora.
Amid the drums banging and our yells of encouragement, they raced
each other as they escorted us into the main port of Banda Neira.
We began our first exploration of Banda Neira after an early lunch.
A group of expeditioners went ashore with Bruce to explore the main
town, while the remainder travelled out to the fresh lava flows
from the 1988 eruption of Banda Api Volcano to explore the newly
formed coral reef. Both snorkelers and SCUBA divers enjoyed the
clear water and abundant marine life which had so quickly grown
back in less than thirty years.
After a brief stop-over on the ship to freshen up we went ashore
for a welcome ceremony up on the walls of the old Dutch fort,
called Fort Belgica, alongside Banda Api volcano.
Here we enjoyed Champagne and orange juice as the locals
presented us with some excellent singing and dancing as the sun
slowly went down behind the volcanic hills.
An excellent finish to our first day of exploration of this
vibrant town. Dinner awaited us once we returned to ship, and
tonights documentary was the BBCs Spice Trail.
LOCAL WEATHERWind SE, becoming moderateSeas Slight Swell Short,
moderate SEWeather Fine forenoon, afternoon showers Barometer Low
in morning, average by evening
SUMMARY OF DAYS EVENTS1000 Arrive Banda Harbour1300 Guests
depart for diving and snorkelling
on the lava flow1620 Board Xplorer for Banda Fort visit
DAY 11 21.10.16LOCATION: BANDANEIRA
IN GENERAL
The Xplorer was loaded and ready to take us ashore by 0730 so
that we could get an early start to our exploration of the historic
main town of Bandaneira. The tour guides escorted us through the
old fort, called Fort Nassau, and other historic features of the
town before taking us through a spice farm. Here we saw nutmeg,
clove, native almond and cinnamon trees growing on the rich
volcanic soils.
Once we were back by the wharf, refreshments were served as we
were once again treated to some great dancing and singing from the
local school children. We were made to feel very welcome and we
were sad to leave this amazing little town. Eventually we had to
leave Bandaneira and return to the ship for a well earned lunch. It
was now time to leave the Spice Islands and we were once again
heading south, this time towards Darwin, our final destination.
LOCAL WEATHERWind Freshening SEly, easing through afternoonSeas
Smooth becoming slightSwell Short, moderate SElyWeather Cloudy and
hotBarometer Low by evening
SUMMARY OF DAYS EVENTS0730 Board Xplorer for town tour1015
Depart for exit of Banda Harbour Guest lectures through the
afternoon Onward passage to Darwin
DAY 12 22.10.16LOCATION: THE ARAFURA SEA
IN GENERAL
A breeze had sprung up during the night, and we were
experiencing some light seas as we enjoyed breakfast. The
documentary Pride of Warriors was shown after lunch.
Captain Gary started our evening with Captains Farewell Drinks.
This was our final opportunity to socialise with our newly acquired
friends on the ship before our departure the following morning.
LOCAL WEATHERWind Gentle SEbE, freshening through forenoonSeas
Rough by noon, easing late afternoonSwell Short, mod SEWeather Hot
and cloudyBarometer Average throughout
SUMMARY OF DAYS EVENTS0400 Passed close to E Masela Island to
enter Timor Sea0900 Presentation on Crocodilians of the World1000
Guest lecture on the Asmat and Komoro of Papua1630 Expedition
Leaders final recap2400 Rounding Cape Fourcroy
IN GENERAL
Its time to say goodbye to the Coral Discoverer and her
wonderful crew.
DAY 13 23.10.16LOCATION: DARWIN
LOCAL WEATHERWind Fresh SE on approachSeas ModerateSwell
LowWeather Partly cloudy and hotBarometer Above average
SUMMARY OF DAYS EVENTS0830 Clearance obtained0910 Guests
disembark
VOYAGE: 1016 - SPICE ISLANDS > LOCATION: BANDANEIRA PICTURE
TAKEN: OCTOBER 2016
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