SAJN (SA Jewellery News) Nov 2015

SOUTH AFRICAN JEWELLERY NEWS

The industry's only trade journal

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Colourful styling in Hong Kong The world of pink diamonds

De Beers: overall consumer demand as strong as last year

The views expressed in this publication are not necessarily those of the owners and the Diamond and Jewellery Federation of South Africa, its members, the publisher or its agents. While every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of its contents, neither the owners and the Diamond and Jewellery Federation of South Africa, the editor nor the publisher can be held responsible for any omissions or errors; or for any misfortune, injury or damages which may arise therefrom. The same applies to all advertising. SA Jewellery News© 2015. All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or any information storage retrieval system, without prior written permission from the publishers. ISSN 1817-5333.

Official Journal of the Diamond and Jewellery Federation of South Africa. Website: www.jewellery.org.za

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Editor: Adri Viviers

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Watch Editor: Alice Weil


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Chief Executive Officer: Andrew Meyer

Chief Financial Officer: Imraan Mahomed

Printing: Colors

Titan, the world’s fifth

largest watch manufacturer,

is proud to announce the

launch of the Automatic

2015 collection. The 90034

design has an automatic

movement with 21 jewels,

unidirectional auto winding

and manual winding. It features a stainless steel

case, genuine leather strap, butterfly clasp and

domed sapphire-coated mineral glass. It is water-

resistant to 5 ATM. Contact Luxco Importers on

tel: (011) 448-2210 or visit www.luxco.co.za for

more information.

On the coverSOUTH AFRICAN JEWELLERY NEWS

The industry's only trade journal

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VEM

BER

201

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R36,00 (incl VAT)

Colourful styling in Hong Kong The world of pink diamonds

De Beers: overall consumer demand as strong as last year

De Beers: overall consumer demand as strong as last yearas strong as last year

c ntents

21. BRAND MANAGEMENT• Watch nominations for prestigious event

• Wrist candy from Rado

• A grand collection

• Cartier re-invents the crown

• Rare vintage pocket watch auctioned

• New Classic Moonphase created

• Inspired by the love of music

7. NEWS• Red carpet Forevermark jewellery at Jewellex Africa

• CIBJO releases first Blue Book devoted to coral

• Fancy vivid pink diamond to list at Christie’s for US$23-28 million

• De Beers: overall consumer demand as strong as last year

• Trollbeads announces 2015 People’s Bead winner

14. INTERNATIONAL FAIRColourful styling in Hong Kong

16. BRAND HISTORYFrench watchmakers – an innovative spirit

18. GEMMOLOGYThe world of pink diamonds

28. LITTLE GEMSA gem of a town

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – NOVEMBER 2015

RED-CARPET FOREVERMARK JEWELLERY AT JEWELLEX AFRICA

The De Beers Group of Companies, sponsor

of the Diamond Pavilion at Jewellex Africa

2015, showcased a select array of Forever-

mark red-carpet jewellery at the event on

27 October.

The array of exceptional Forevermark

diamonds have graced red carpets and

high-profile events around the world, ap-

pearing on women praised for their beau-

ty, talent and poise. These include Kate

Winslet, Kate Hudson, Sienna Miller, Kristen Stewart, Dakota Johnson,

Jennifer Garner and Margot Robbie.

As a licensed distributor of Forevermark in southern Africa, Caratco

also created a Forevermark red-carpet collection named “La Dolce Vita”

in order to build brand awareness. South African celebrities such as Bo-

nang Matheba, Terry Pheto and Tanya van Graan have worn exquisite

pieces from this collection, which was also part of the Forevermark red-

carpet jewellery at Jewellex.

Every Forevermark diamond undergoes rigorous selection, as less

than 1% of the world’s diamonds are worthy of the unique Forever-

mark inscription, which is an assurance that the stone meets exceptional

standards of both beauty and rarity, and is responsibly sourced.

Also on display at the show was a selection of Forevermark com-

mercial jewellery, including the Forevermark global design collections,

the Forevermark Setting, Encordia and Cornerstones, as well as a bridal

collection created by Caratco for the local market.

BHARAT DIAMOND BOURSE “WITHIN ITS RIGHTS” TO BAN TRADING IN SYNTHETIC DIAMONDS Responding to the decision of the Bharat Diamond Bourse (BDB) to ban

the trading of synthetic/laboratory-created diamonds, World Federation of

Diamond Bourses (WFDB) President Ernie Blom says each WFDB-affiliated

exchange is within its rights to decide on its policy on the issue.

“Each of our member bourses has full decision-making powers re-

garding which types of diamonds can be bought and sold within its

premises, as long as the decisions are made in line with the WFDB’s

regulations,” says Blom. “We’re not opposed to trading in synthetic/

laboratory-created diamonds and accept that there could be a market

for them. We only insist that such stones are fully disclosed so that the

trade and consumers know exactly what they’re being offered. This is

critical in ensuring consumer confidence.

“The BDB’s decision aims to ensure the growth of the natural diamond

trade, strengthen consumer confidence and promote faith in diamonds.

These are aims the WFDB fully supports.”

In a statement regarding its ban, the BDB said that at its 31st annual

general meeting on 28 September 2015, “a resolution was proposed to

declare that no person or organisation shall promote, trade in or carry

synthetic, laboratory-grown or man-made diamonds within the premises

of the BDB. Only ‘natural diamonds’ may be traded there. The resolu-

tion was approved by an overwhelming majority of the members and was

passed in its entirety.”

Last year, the Israel Diamond Exchange announced that it was banning

trading in synthetic diamonds on its trading floor.

To advertise in our jewellery publications, contact Linda Stock on tel: 011 883 4627 or e-mail: [email protected]

NEWS

CIBJO RELEASES FIRST BLUE BOOK DEVOTED TO CORALCIBJO, the World Jewellery Confederation, has

released online its latest Blue Book, delineating

acceptable trade practices and nomenclature

for the coral industry and trade. The document

was compiled by the CIBJO Coral Commission,

headed by Commission President Enzo Liverino,

under the auspices of CIBJO’s Sector A, which

has jurisdiction over gem materials.

The new Blue Book is comprehensive, clas-

sifying both non-treated and treated corals, as

well as artificial products that imitate and/or

include coral elements. Normative terms which

should be used to describe coral and disclose

treatments are listed, as is the terminology

that should be applied to define associated ar-

tificial products. Methods of maintaining the

quality of coral jewellery are provided and the

various types of different precious coral spe-

cies are itemised.

Because of the unique nature of coral,

which is an organism grown in nature without

human intervention, the Coral Book includes

references to the Washington Convention on

International Trade in Endangered Species,

which entered into force in 1975 to address

concerns that many living species were becom-

ing endangered because of commerce between

countries. The document also outlines national

and regional regulations promoting the sustain-

able harvesting of coral.

The Coral Book is the sixth in the Blue Book

series and joins the definitive sets of grading

standards and nomenclature for diamonds,

gemstones, pearls, precious metals and gem-

mological laboratories. Each is compiled and

updated by relevant CIBJO Commissions,

whose members include representatives of

trade organisations and laboratories active in

the industry.

The Blue Books represent a consensus de-

rived from the broad expertise on the subject

within each commission, as well as from out-

side individuals who have expressed an inter-

est in participating in the development of the

guidelines. In the almost complete absence of

jewellery industry standards endorsed by the

International Standards Organisation (ISO), the

CIBJO Blue Books are the most widely accepted

set of globally accepted standards.

“The Coral Blue Book is an additional tool

developed by CIBJO to ensure ethical business

practices and transparency in the jewellery busi-

ness,” says Gaetano Cavalieri, CIBJO President.

“It focuses on a sector that operates in a very

fragile eco-environment, where proper stand-

ards and methods of operation are absolutely

essential. I congratulate Enzo Liverino and his

colleagues on the Coral Commission not only

on their vision and efforts, but on the contribu-

tion they’ve made to our industry.”

“Although coral’s been featured in jewel-

lery for millennia, it remains a product that’s

not widely understood,” says Liverino. “Apart

from creating common sets of standards, prac-

tices and nomenclature, our goals in producing

the Coral Book included addressing important

issues of environmental responsibility and sus-

tainability which are specific to coral.”

“This is an important document that’s pro-

vided a proper framework and set of references

for the coral sector, corresponding to those

that have been established for other sectors in

our industry,” says Roland Naftule, CIBJO Vice-

president and President of Sector A. “However,

its release is just the first stage in an ongoing

journey. Each Blue Book is a living document

that’s reviewed and updated constantly.”

In addition to the Coral Book, CIBJO’s

Sector A recently released online the updated

editions of the Diamond Book, the Gemstone

Book and the Pearl Book.


TROLLBEADS ANNOUNCES 2015 PEOPLE’S BEAD WINNERFor the seventh consecutive year, Danish jew-

ellery brand Trollbeads asked its fans to help

design a new bead for the ever-growing col-

lection of beads that fit the original beads-on-

bracelet concept. The company received sev-

eral thousand unique designs from which 100

finalists were chosen. The fans then voted for

one winning design.

The designer behind the 2015 People’s

Bead is Amanda White, born in Bucking-

hamshire, UK, in 1976 – the same year the

Trollbeads story began. The winning design,

Tropical Travels, combines three tropical flow-

ers symbolising the joy of travelling.

“My love of nature and exploring new

destinations inspired me to design this bead,”

explains White. “Whenever I travel, I discover

something new. On one vacation, I found my-

self walking through a tropical garden. The ar-

ray of flowers and foliage fascinated me. I was

particularly drawn to the plumeria [frangipani]

and the hibiscus flowers, which were in full

bloom. Their vibrant colours and delicate pet-

als left a lasting memory.”

DIAMOND INDUSTRY HAS REASON FOR OPTIMISM ABOUT HOLIDAY SEASON World Federation of Diamond Bourses Presi-

dent Ernie Blom believes the global diamond

trade can be positive ahead of the upcoming

holiday sales season due to recent events.

He notes that initial indications from the

September Hong Kong Gems & Jewellery Fair

are that it is solid. Meanwhile, price cuts by De

Beers and Alrosa are bringing prices of rough

diamonds down to more realistic levels. In ad-

dition, much-needed reductions in polished

production have been carried out, particularly

by the Indian manufacturing sector.

“There’s reason to be optimistic, even

though conditions do, of course, remain chal-

lenging overall,” says Blom. “Due to the global

nature of its exhibitors, buyers and visitors,

the Hong Kong show is a useful barometer of

industry sentiment, so it’s very promising that

demand at the event was stable.

“On the rough supply side, we’ve seen

the world’s two main producers – De Beers

and Alrosa – take meaningful steps to reduce

prices. Alrosa said it would cut prices by up

to 10% at its September sale. That followed

De Beers’ decision to reduce prices by simi-

lar levels at its August Sight. The producers

have accepted our arguments that diamond

manufacturers simply can’t be expected to

pay such high prices for rough at a time of

falling polished prices. I believe we need to

see a further reduction in rough prices, but

these moves are encouraging and we expect

to see the trend repeated at other diamond

sales and tenders.”

Blom adds that the decision by many dia-

mantaires to hold off on manufacturing will

help put a firm floor under prices. “We had a

situation where there were simply too many

polished goods on offer. Now that some ma-

jor players have cut production, there’ll be

lower levels of polished inventories and possi-

bly shortages in some items. I believe this will

lead to a rise in business transactions.”

Regarding the all-important consumer de-

mand for diamonds and diamond jewellery,

Blom says: “The World Diamond Mark contin-

ues creating alliances with leading companies

to help build generic marketing of diamonds.

While the situation remains far from easy,

these developments give us reason for opti-

mism in the coming months.”

SOTHEBY’S TO OFFER THE US$35 MILLION BLUE MOON DIAMONDSotheby’s will present the extraordinary Blue

Moon Diamond, one of the largest known fan-

cy vivid blue diamonds, as the centrepiece of

the auction of Magnificent Jewels and Noble

Jewels in Geneva on 11 November this year.

This exquisite diamond weighs 12,03ct and

has been graded fancy vivid blue – the highest

possible colour grading for blue diamonds – by

the Gemological Institute of America (GIA).

The cushion brilliant-cut stone also boasts ex-

ceptional clarity, having been declared inter-

nally flawless by the GIA. This stunningly rare

stone comes to the market at an estimated

price of US$35-US$55 million.

David Bennett, worldwide Chairman of So-

theby’s International Jewellery Division, says:

“The Blue Moon diamond is a sensational stone

of perfect colour and purity, combined with a

superb cushion shape. Blue, for me, is the most

magical of all the colours of diamonds and the

Blue Moon will now take its place among the

most famous gems in the world.”

13SA JEWELLERY NEWS – NOVEMBER 2015

NEWS

DE BEERS: OVERALL CONSUMER DEMAND AS STRONG AS LAST YEARIn its recently-released Diamond Insight Report,

De Beers announced that India represents a

growth opportunity for the global diamond

production pipeline. Indian diamond industry

stakeholders do not share this outlook, how-

ever, pointing to a lack of promotion in their

country (and around the world) that has led to

a significant drop in consumer demand.

With the Chinese economy now also in

difficulties and a slump in oil prices having

taken the pith out of Middle East and Russian

demand, the diamond production pipeline is

faced with the prospect of having to make it to

the end of this fiscal year with only the Ameri-

can market to support it.

However, De Beers Group CEO Philippe

Mellier says: “Indigestion in the midstream

and downstream has impacted rough dia-

mond demand this year, despite consumer de-

mand for diamond jewellery being stable on

the levels seen last year.”

On the other hand, one prominent Indian

diamantaire notes: “Production’s been down

by up to 40% over the past six months and

we’re still struggling to sell our goods. Unless

there’s something to promote and push sales,

there won’t be any growth.”

De Beers, meanwhile, has highlighted the

fact that diamond demand grew 3% in 2014

to exceed US$80 billion for the first time. It

notes that these figures represent “the fifth

consecutive year of growth since the global

recession”, adding that rough diamond pro-

duction rose 6% to US$19 billion in 2014.

The mining major also remains optimistic

about this year, saying that despite last year’s

strong performance, the continued strength

of the US dollar and lower demand growth in

China, global growth in US dollar terms will

remain stable on 2014 levels.

De Beers’ optimism about India as a

growth market is based on general economic

indicators. Writing about the country’s out-

look for diamond demand, it notes:

• Driven by a widening consumer base,

economic development and increasing vol-

umes, India’s diamond consumer market has

achieved almost uninterrupted growth over

the past 20 years. It is now one of the world’s

largest consumer markets.

• The retail landscape is changing. Chains are

set to grow in significance and lead the way

in online development, both as a sales chan-

nel and as a means of researching future pur-

chases. Brands are also becoming increasingly

important for Indian consumers as assurances

of quality and authenticity.

• As affluence continues to grow, more

Indian women will be able to purchase dia-

monds. Seventy-five million new Indian house-

holds are expected to see income rise above

US$5 000-US$6 000 in the decade, contribut-

ing to growing diamond demand. Meanwhile,

the number of elite households is expected to

triple over the next decade to 12 million, while

the super-elites are expected to quadruple in

size and reach over three million households

by 2024, presenting the industry with a fur-

ther growth opportunity.

However, other industry stakeholders note

that no matter how much affluence grows in

the country, the problem is the lack of initia-

tive to interest consumers in diamonds.

“The challenges faced by the sector in 2015

are expected to be short-term and the indus-

try has excellent prospects,” says Mellier. “The

long-term trend for demand has been positive,

with consistent growth in demand for diamond

jewellery since the 2008/9 financial crisis. There

are also further exciting growth opportuni-

ties in the main consumer markets and India’s

a great example of this. Already one of the

world’s largest markets for diamond jewellery,

the growth of the middle class in India over the

next decade is set to make a major contribu-

tion to growing diamond demand.”

FANCY VIVID PINK DIAMOND TO LIST AT CHRISTIE’S Christie’s is to put up for sale what it describes

as “the largest cushion-shaped fancy vivid pink

diamond ever to be offered at auction”, valued

at US$23-28 million.

The 16,08ct diamond is set in a ring and

surrounded by a double row of pavé white

diamonds, with a third row of small pink dia-

monds underneath. The band comprises small,

circular-cut white diamonds set in platinum.

The stone shows no trace of secondary colour.

It will be presented for auction from 10

November at the inaugural Magnificent Jewels

auction in Geneva and is expected to break re-

cords for diamond sale prices.

In 2009 Christie’s Hong Kong sold the

Vivid Pink, a cushion-shaped fancy vivid pink

diamond of 5ct, for US$2,16 million per carat,

which is still the world auction record price

per carat for any pink diamond.

Rahul Kadakia, International Head of Jewel-

lery at Christie’s, says the diamond has come

to market “at a time when great gems are mir-

roring prices achieved for masterpieces in the

world of fine art. Collectors are looking to jew-

els as savvy investments that are both beautiful

and can appreciate considerably in value over a

relatively short period.” – Rapaport

14 SA JEWELLERY NEWS – NOVEMBER 2015

INTERNATIONAL FAIR

There was bling, flash, dazzle and glitz a-plenty – but

also plenty of class and high quality at the Hong Kong

Watch & Clock Fair (HKW&CF), the world’s largest

timepiece fair which opened on 8 September in the

Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre looking out

directly onto beautiful Victoria Harbour. Martin Foster

reviews industry movements at this year’s event.

THE 34TH HONG KONG WATCH & CLOCK

Fair featured 780 exhibitors from China, Hong

Kong and 23 countries and regions includ-

ing Bermuda, Denmark, Lebanon, Russia and

Spain, making it the largest trade fair of its

kind in the world. Overall, the number of Swiss

Colourful styling in Hong Kong

brands at the event was double

that of 2014, with more than 40

brand exhibitors demonstrating

that the Swiss now want to sell

more aggressively into China.

Prince Jewellery & Watch Co

exhibited major brands includ-

ing Audemars Piguet, Blancpain,

Breguet, Chopard, Franck Muller,

IWC, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Omega, Pan-

erai, Piaget, Vacheron Constantin and A Lange

& Söhne from Glashütte.

In addition, Switzerland’s watchmaking ex-

pertise was promoted at two new pavilions:

Swiss Eminence, featuring brands such as Cyma,

Enicar, DOXA and Sultana, and Swiss Independ-

ent Watchmaking, featuring timepieces by Char-

riol, Pilo & Co, Rebellion, Traser and WATCHe.

Every year, Chinese watch producers show

a growing understanding of how to compete

against the finest European luxury

makers in terms of quality and fin-

ish. “China Made” continues to

grow and we should never un-

derestimate Chinese skill with

decorative bevelling, polishing

and finishing, which are now

part of the established pattern

of high-end manufacture. At the

2015 Hong Kong fair, we espe-

cially noted the speed of change

and advances in sophistication

and artistic subtlety.

Although the Chinese don’t have the heritage claims of the Swiss, their history is nevertheless developing its own gravitas.


INTERNATIONAL FAIR

Colourful styling in Hong KongThis accelerated change was

reflected in a speech by China’s

President Xi Jinping to Ameri-

can business leaders: “I believe

that from a long-term perspective,

China’s economic fundamentals are

good. We’re working to create a new

open economic system, push forward

reform of foreign investment manage-

ment and greatly reduce the restric-

tions on foreign investment. China

will greatly strengthen the pro-

tection of intellectual property.”

For the sanity of the luxury

watch industry, all brands hope

this fight against fakes and cop-

ies will come sooner, rather than

later. Then again, given the new

Swiss policies on parts restriction

and monopolistic avarice, some have

argued that at least one can have a fake

repaired in a reasonable time and at a reason-

able price.

Although the Chinese don’t have the herit-

age claims of the Swiss (very few of whom can

actually withstand close scrutiny), their history

is nevertheless developing its own gravitas.

For example, today Beijing Watch is producing

tourbillons, double tourbillons, minute repeater

tourbillons and double 90° tourbillons – very

fancy stuff indeed which demands closer

attention by serious buyers. Rest as-

sured, current prices will not withstand

the upward pressure exerted by Swiss

luxury brands – which, in turn, will

open up wonderful market op-

portunities for these very fine

Chinese pieces.

Note, in particular, that the

average export price of watches

out of China (all categories) is only

US$3, which contrasts starkly with the

average export price of US$791 out of

Switzerland. A market adjustment of this

enormous discrepancy is inevitable.

Hong Kong brands are highly re-

garded on the mainland, despite

the fact that they are all manu-

factured in southern (mainland)

China and after an export/im-

port/export round-robin through

Hong Kong, watches return to

China labelled "Made in Hong

Kong". Today, however, there is no

watch manufacturer in Hong Kong.

The major tool manufacturers were

at the fair, such as Bergeon, Witschi and, of

course, Chinese makers, but these exhibitors

only have real relevance at the event for Asian,

Hong Kong and mainland Chinese buyers.

Plan a visit to the colourful HKW&CF for

yourself, provided you’re a trade visitor. The

staff are courteous and friendly, the range is

enormous and the ingenuity and excellence of

the timepieces are breathtaking.

(Above, from top): The Swiss Independent Watchmaking Pavilion provided economical exposure for contemporary mid-dle-of-the-range Swiss watch producers; the Swiss Eminence Pavilion provided economical exposure for established brands from middle-of-the-range Swiss watch producers

(Left, from top): Memorigin Ref MO 1223, 28 800 v/ hr, with 155 parts, 18 jewels, 12 diamonds on the dial and exquisite dragon embossment, a co-axial tourbillon at 6 o’clock rotation of 60s, a 40-hour power reserve; Kairos produces the world’s first hybrid mechanical smartwatch. Time functions are pro-vided by a self-winding mechanical calibre and the watch func-tions come via the accompanying Kairos app on iOS, Android or Windows Phone, Kairos hybrid mechanical smartwatch and Kairos T-Band. Connected with a health app and partnered with the integrated movement sensors, the watch becomes a robust activity tracker powered by Misfit®, tracking steps, calories, sleep, heart rate and sweat levels.

(Far left, from left): Garmin’s “Vivoactive” is a lightweight GPS smartwatch which comes with built-in running, biking, golfing, swimming and activity tracking apps. It can be used alone or paired with a smartphone for incoming call and mes-sage notifications. The design is American; Elegantsis exhib-ited its JT61 Cockpit Chronograph. The arresting colour of the dial, coupled with the metallic feel of the inner rim and finely designed markers, combine with the amazing electroplated black of the casing to enhance the watch’s overall appeal


BRAND HISTORY

an innovative spirit French watchmakers: THE FIRST CLOCKS WERE PLACED

in the high towers and belfries of

large French and European cities,

as the system of weights and pul-

leys used for their functioning required a long

drop. Miniaturisation of this system was the

precursor of things to come. It was manifested

in the work of Dutchman Christian Huygens,

who lived part of his life in Paris and in 1657

produced the pendulum clock.

This was followed by the first balance

spring mechanism in 1675 and Huygens’ in-

ventions gave a tremendous boost to Parisian

watchmaking. Paris and Rouen were impor-

tant centres of watch production in the 17th

century. However, the Edict of Nantes – which

outlawed Protestantism – was a serious blow

to the well-educated French and many of the

watch profession chose exile in England, Hol-

land, Germany and Switzerland to continue

their work. This factor eventually created stiff

competition for the French.

Nevertheless, sumptuous decoration of

French clocks and watches remained superior

throughout the second half of the 17th and

the early 18th centuries through renowned

watchmakers who found solutions for techni-

cal problems. These innovators included Jan-

vier and Abraham-Louis Breguet, the latter

best known for his predecessor of the modern

luxury watch.

During the middle of the 19th century,

the French sold great quantities of watch

movements to the Swiss. A French watchmaker

named Japy was the first to build modern

factories for mass production.

France rapidly adapted to the preference

for wristwatches, rather than pocket watches,

after World War I and produced very fine

movements before and after World War II.

The 1980s heralded the so-called quartz

revolution, but France adapted to this new

wave of technology by making the necessary

adjustments to its production process and

filling in less competitive gaps in the market

through the sale of high-quality components.

Its watches were distinctive and had unusual

features in their design – for example, brands

like Beuchat and Pierre Lanvier. There was

also renewed production of mechanical

movements from Pequinet, Christian Bernard,

Saint Honoré and Michel Herbelin.

The latter brand found a ready market in

South Africa when it was introduced in the

late 1980s and early ’90s. The company was

founded in 1947 by the watchmaker of that

name in the French Jura mountain village of

Charquemont, near the border of Switzerland.

Following Herbelin Senior’s innovative spirit

in 1972 were his sons Jean-Claude and Pierre-

Michel. The company’s headquarters and fac-

tory in a quiet, tree-lined street are in the shape

of a long, sleek vessel, emphasising the brand’s

association with the ocean. It was the sea which

inspired Michel Herbelin: his love of sailing was

well-known and his private yacht was moored

on the French Riviera.

The French have had a long list of achievements in watchmaking since the early years of the industry. New time-keeping methods in the 13th century were numerous and improved accuracy, using inventions which succeeded the former unscientific methods. The development of the escape mechanism was a predecessor to the modern watch.

France rapidly adapted to the preference for wrist-watches, rather than pocket watches, after World War I.

It was also he who instituted the brand’s

iconic range, Newport, named after the New

England town in the USA which is a Mecca

for sailors, famous for yachting races and the

home of the international America’s Cup. It is

reported to symbolise the American Dream – a

concept brought to the product line. The design

was also inspired by a ship’s porthole, while the

cable motif provides the finishing touch.

The brand maintains fine watch traditions

and is one of the leaders in its market segment

in France, with an international market sold in

50 countries worldwide.


GEMMOLOGY

The October 2015 issue of SAJN looked at the impact of auction sales, the geology of the Argyle mine and Argyle pink diamonds’ testing and value. In this issue, Branko Deljanin, Dr Adolf Peretti and Matthias Alessandri look at the historical review and characteristics of non-Argyle pinks and the screening for natural and synthetic diamond types.

Historical review and characteristics

of non-Argyle pinks

After India’s major production of diamonds be-

gan in the 17th century (including rare, large

Golconda colourless and pink diamonds), Bra-

zil was the next primary source for colourless

and coloured diamonds, including rare pink

stones originating from the panning of gravel

in Brazilian rivers in the 17th century and until

the present. It was in one such small river that a

boy found a red 13,90ct diamond crystal while

swimming. In 1990, the crystal was subsequent-

ly purchased by William Goldberg Diamond Corp

and cut to produce a 5,11ct fancy red, the largest

of its kind. In 2001, it was purchased by Mous-

saieff Jewellers for $1,8 million per carat and re-

named the “Moussaieff Red”. Originating from

approximately one gram of carbon that turned

red as the result of the right combination of

pressure and temperature, the stone is currently

valued at over $20 million. One of the authors

(Branko Deljanin) had a chance to see this rare

stone while working in New York.

Many other pinks have been mined in the

past 100 years from special carrot-shaped mag-

matic rock called kimberlite (central and South

Africa, Russia and Canada). The following are

known sources of pink and purple non-Argyle

diamonds and their claim to fame regarding im-

portant stones, in historical order:

• Indonesia (Borneo-Kalimantan): More pink-

ish-brown, oldest diamond mining from riv-

ers, starting in the 16th century.

• India (Golconda): 186ct, light pink, the “Dar-

ya-I-Nur”; Golconda – the 34,65ct “Princie”

Fancy Intense pink diamond sold in 2013 for

$39 323 750; the 28,15ct “Agra” pink dia-

mond – from kimberlite in the 17th century.

The world of pink diamonds

tern” under cross-polarised filters (CPF), without

showing any fluorescence or only a faint reac-

tion under UV lamp. Natural type lla diamonds

may be extremely large and of high clarity, but

normally contain some graining. Pink diamonds

from Central Africa, Canada and Siberia tested

at GRS labs also do not show fluorescence under

the LW UV lamp and have very different “fin-

gerprints” in spectra (impurity positions) when

tested with advanced instruments (UV-VIS, FTIR

and PL spectrometers), so it is possible to distin-

guish them from Argyle pinks.

In 2014/15, GRS and CGL_GRS labs compiled

an impressive database of all current major pink

diamond-producing countries using standard

and advanced instruments. Production from new

sources will be tested as they become available.

Screening for natural and synthetic

diamond types

Approximately 97% of all natural diamonds

are considered type la, with the presence of

nitrogen (N). These can occur in all colours,

including purple and pink. One percent of all

diamonds are orangey-yellow to brown type lb,

while less than 25% are type lla colourless, pink

or light brown. Type lla and llb diamonds are

the rarest of diamonds due to the absence of

nitrogen impurities, but type llb stones contain

boron and are therefore blue.

Synthetic diamonds are created using either

high pressure, high temperature (HPHT) or carbon

vapour deposition (CVD). Nowadays, sizes from

0,50-1,50ct are common. These processes can

produce near-colourless type lla, yellow type lb,

pink type lb or lla (after annealing and irradiation),

and blue type lla (new GRS research – see http//

www.gemresearch.ch/news/2013-11-07_Blue-

Diamond/CVD-BlueDiamond.pdf), as well as type

llb. As such, knowing the approximate diamond

type is a great help in the initial screening of dia-

monds. Some instruments, like the type lla dia-

mond spotter developed by SSEF, are not enough

to identify possible synthetic or treated origins of

diamonds. It can only screen if a diamond is trans-

parent to UV and if it is low in nitrogen, indicating

a type lla, llb or a rare type laB.

Visually, natural and synthetic diamonds

can look very similar when comparing size,

cut, colour and clarity. Their commercial values

differ significantly, however, which highlights

the importance of detection and disclosure.

For example, coloured synthetics can easily cost

50-60% less than their natural counterparts.

In the case of colourless lab-growns, the price

difference is around 30-40%.

The CPF method is relatively simple and in-

expensive to set up, and only requires a set of

two linear polarisation filters (or a portable po-

• Brazil (Minas Gerais): The 5,11ct “Mous

saieff Red” in 1990 – from rivers in the 18th

century until now.

• SA (56,90ct, the Fancy Vivid Pink “Pink

Star”) – from kimberlite in the late 19th cen-

tury until now (the lace mine in SA in 2015).

• Venezuela (Santa Elena) – pink diamonds

found in rivers in the 1920s until now.

• Tanzania (the 23,60ct “Williamson Pink”,

flawless) – in 1947 from kimberlite.

• Congo (Katanga Province – Kasai, a mixture

of brown and pink) – from rivers in the mid-

20th century.

• Russia (Siberia – Mir, mostly purple dia-

monds) – from kimberlites in 1950s until now.

• Canada (north-west territories – Diavik

mine in 2003, pinkish-purple diamonds, and

Northern Ontario – Victor mine in 2006,

light pink) – from kimberlite, for the past

10 years.

• Lesotho (23,82ct pink rough diamond from

the Kao mine) – in 2014 from kimberlite.

It is interesting to note that some diamonds

from different countries (like Russia and Can-

ada) have very similar characteristics regarding

colour (more purple than pink) and gemmologi-

cal characteristics (no fluorescence, type la), in-

dicative of the similar geological environments

in which they were formed.

“Pink-coloured diamonds are rare, especially

in Canada. I’m thrilled, on behalf of the Ontario

government, to present this 2,74ct pink diamond

as the first pink diamond from the De Beers Victor

mine, cut and polished in Ontario,” says Michael

Gravelle, Canadian Minister of Natural Resources.

Pink diamonds of type lla (like the 59,60ct

Pink Star) could be much larger than Argyle pink

diamonds and have a characteristic “tatami pat-


GEMMOLOGY

fluorescence under UV light.

Gerald McGuire, President and CEO of the

Scio Diamond Technology Corporation, says:

“SDT routinely makes rough gems in the 3-5ct

range and along with our joint development

partner, Renaissance Diamonds Inc, we are de-

livering 1-2ct finished gems. Scio Diamonds an-

nounced a joint venture with partners in China

to produce CVD-grown diamonds at a much

lower cost. Scio Diamonds is currently produc-

ing high-quality lab-grown pink diamonds that

are priced reasonably and within the reach of

many customers who favour pinks.”

A rosy future

These days, consumers are very conscious of

product origin. In addition to demanding Fair

Trade coffee, there has been a growing inter-

est in knowing where coloured diamonds are

coming from. Dealers and jewellers should both

be ready to provide the answer. It is reported

by Partnership Africa Canada, an active mem-

ber of the Kimberley Process, that diamonds

(including pink diamonds) from Venezuela

(Santa Elena, on the Brazilian border) are ille-

gally transported to Brazil and Guyana, and ex-

ported further through the Kimberley Process

chain. These authorities are asking to exclude

Brazil and Venezuela from the Kimberley Pro-

cess if they cannot halt the illegal transport of

diamonds from their territories. Rio Tinto Dia-

monds in Australia and Canada is following all

the rules implemented by governments regard-

ing tracking its diamonds, and it is believed that

consumers are willing to pay an extra premium

in order to know that their diamonds are com-

ing from those conflict-free countries. Many

labs, including GRS Lab (Hong Kong) Ltd, have

joined the Kimberley Process.

Gemmology is evolving and more advanced

instruments are being used in gem labs for rou-

tine testing of diamonds and coloured gems.

The most widely used methods for separation of

natural, treated and synthetic diamonds are opti-

cal methods (absorption and photoluminescence)

that are used in gem labs to identify these stones.

Representatives from GRS and CGL-GRS labs and

other researchers on coloured and synthetic gems

and diamonds will present their findings at the

second Mediterranean Gemmological & Jewel-

lery Conference in Valencia, Spain, next year.

Finally, it is possible to separate natural pink

diamonds from all categories of treated and/or

laboratory-grown diamonds, loose or mounted,

of any size, by using a combination of standard

and advanced gemmological instruments.

– Reprinted with permission from InColor,

Spring 2015, Issue 28

grown diamonds were made in Russia by New

Diamond Technologies in February 2015.

Twenty years ago, when these lab-grown

diamonds entered the market, they were small

and included (Sl1-l2) and it was easy to sepa-

rate them from natural stones based on trian-

gular metallic incisions. But growing technol-

ogy improved and over 70% of HPHT-grown

diamonds are VS or better clarity. Luckily, due

to irradiation treatment, HPHT-grown pink dia-

monds have a characteristic, strong orangey-

red reaction under both LW and SW UV light

and this is a good screening technique to pick

up these stones, even from parcels of melee

pink diamonds or mounted stones. These dia-

monds are grown in a relatively short time in

very stable, controlled environments and will

not show any pattern (stress) under CPF.

Characteristics of CVD-grown diamonds

In 2014, GRS and CGL-GRS reported on a new

generation of Orion PDC Hong Kong pink

CVD-grown diamonds of much more “natural-

looking” fancy colours of all sizes (orangey-pink

and purplish-pink) and higher clarity (VVS-VS)

that are in the market. They are harder to

identify than HPHT-grown pink diamonds using

standard gemmological instruments. In this

clarity range, it is not possible to distinguish

them from pink natural diamonds by simply

using a loupe or microscope. In some CVD

stones, black inclusions (assumed to be non-

diamond carbon) are visible and when located

in one plane perpendicular to the direction

of growth, they are a reliable indicator of

the diamonds’ CVD origin. Blackish, irregular

clouds that are found in this CVD-grown pink

diamond from PDC are also a reliable indicator.

All new pink-coloured CVD samples are type

lla, very low-nitrogen diamonds. Observed be-

tween CPF, they produce two general patterns: a

natural-looking pattern similar to the “tatami pat-

tern” of type lla natural diamonds and a “colum-

nar pattern” typical of CVD-grown diamonds.

A quick screening of loose and mounted

pink diamonds is possible by using UV illumina-

tion in a dark room. A strong pinkish-orange

(LW=SW) reaction is observed in type lla pink

CVD-grown diamonds.

In cases where the diamond is determined

to be a type lla based on the “tatami pattern”,

it is important to refer it to an advanced lab

to determine whether the colour is natural,

treated or the stone is CVD-grown. After an

initial screening with standard instruments,

most pink diamonds should be tested with ad-

ditional spectroscopic analysis to confirm their

synthetic origin, because multi-step treated

natural diamonds can also show strong orange

lariscope) that are attached to any microscope

or portable light source. To use the CPF meth-

od, position the suspected diamond between

the CP filters and rotate it in transmitted light

to observe birefringence patterns (“strain”). In

combination with the simple CPF method, the

fluorescence technique can be used to screen

for diamond types and help identify a possible

synthetic origin of a coloured diamond.

The procedures explained here are rela-

tively simple, easy to learn and inexpensive.

A CPF set and UV lamp costs about $500. In

the light of several occurrences of salted par-

cels of undisclosed diamonds reported in the

past few years, vigilance and an understanding

of gemmological tools are critical to ensuring

confidence in the supply line. CGL-GRS offers

workshops on the use of standard instruments

in screening for natural, treated and synthetic

diamonds. The next one will be held at the sec-

ond Mediterranean Gemmological & Jewellery

Conference in Valencia, Spain, from 5-7 May

2016 (visit: www.gemconference.com).

Synthetic diamond producers such as AOTC

Canada (HPHT-grown) and Scio Diamonds

USA (CVD-grown) increased their production

of pink diamonds by 5-10% over the past five

years to meet higher consumer demand for

more affordable, but still colour-stable pink lab-

grown diamonds.

GRS and CGL-GRS labs acquired pink CVD-

grown diamonds from a new producer – Orion

(PDC), Hong Kong – and compared them with

pink diamonds of different origin from our re-

search collection that includes natural pink dia-

monds from Argyle, natural pink non-Argyle dia-

monds from six different locations, CVD-grown

plus irradiated and annealed pink diamonds by

Scio Diamonds USA, HPHT-enhanced, irradi-

ated and annealed natural pink diamonds, HPHT-

grown and irradiated pink diamonds by Chatham

USA, HPHT-grown and irradiated diamonds by a

Russian producer, HPHT-grown and HPHT-grown

and irradiated diamonds by AOTC, Canada.

Characteristics of HPHT-grown diamonds

AOTC, Chatham and Gemesis employ a

traditional temperature gradient method

to grow their stones. The capsule contains

“seeds” and metal-based material that will

act as a solvent for the graphite and a catalyst

to enable crystal growth. Nitrogen enters the

growth capsule, making most of the synthetic

diamond yellow, but it could be irradiated to

produce a pink colour or nitrogen could be

“removed” to produce colourless stones. The

majority of synthetic crystals are 1-4ct, or 0,50-

2,0ct once they are polished. Even diamonds

as big as 5ct polished, near-colourless, HPHT-


BRAND MANAGEMENT

Cartier re-invents the crownIt may have seemed straightforward to cre-

ate a form based on a perfect circle, but for

the concept of Clé de Cartier timepieces, this

proved a challenge.

However, subtlety and restraint –

shapes are pared down and reduced to

their essence – as well as precision,

balance and proportion were

the solution. The Swiss watch-

maker has a history of creating

inventive crowns and its new-

est collection, Clé de Cartier,

upholds that heritage. This is

the watch’s most distinctive

feature, as is the inspiration for

its name.

“Clé” is the French word for “key”

and the crown’s resemblance to a key

is unmistakable.

Based on the early traditional

turning of a key to wind a clock, the

size and dimensions of the crown make it

easy to activate and it is an object in its own

right. Elongated and pure, it is adorned with

a sapphire ingeniously inserted to remain flush

with the metal surrounding it. This new winding

mechanism has been especially developed to

be user-friendly. It incorporates a system that

makes setting the time remarkably simple. After

making the necessary adjustment, the crown

can be pushed back with ease, returning

it to its vertical position without moving

the hands. The act of turning the

crown and pushing it back creates

a gentle clicking sound.

The shape of the case is

unconventional, based on

a simple circle. It appears

ovoid at first glance, rather

like a pebble and somewhat

similar to a few watches from

the 1960s and ’70s. However,

the details of the architecture are

remarkable. Its elegant contours along

the curved, horn-shaped lugs and

case-back hug the wrist comfortably.

The design is available in case sizes of

40, 35 and 31 mm.

The movement is powered by a new Cartier

automatic calibre which has a power reserve

of 42 hours. The cutting-edge technology was

developed, manufactured and assembled in

Switzerland, drawing on the brand’s expertise

in watchmaking. Originally launched earlier

this year at SIHH as a unisex model, it is now

available in both men’s and women’s versions

in a choice of white, yellow and rose gold.

This new approach to timekeeping joins

the ranks of the brand’s Santos, Tank and Bal-

lon Bleu.

Inspired by the love of musicMusic has proved to be a long-standing source

of inspiration for a Geneva watch brand. This

is no doubt linked to its founder, Raymond

Weil, who was a passionate music-lover. The

brand has created new collections, each linked

to some form of music-making.

Weil’s grandson, Elie Bernheim, shares this

love of music, particularly the cello, which in-

spired the brand’s newest model, the Nabucco

Cello Tourbillon. This incorporates many of its

core values through the model’s haute horlo-

gerie finishes.

The watch has fine, clean-cut lines, creating

a striking contrast with the gentleness of the

musical instrument that inspired it. It embodies

a clever intertwining of components which

evoke the theme of the cello and enlivening

the mechanical hand-wound movement.

Both sides of the watch case are fitted with

sapphire crystals, ensuring transparency and

precision. For example, the movement bridge

supporting the tourbillon escapement and

mainspring barrel take the form of the instru-

ment’s distinctive F-holes, while the slender

hands are shaped like a cello bow and the five

lines of a musical stave are represented in the

grooved bezel.

The model’s most striking features, however,

are the four tiny strings which are stretched

taut across the dial of the watch between the 9

o’clock and 3 o’clock positions, combined with

the F-hole shaped bridges to create the illusion

of a miniature instrument. These musical

elements of the mechanism were created in-

house by the brand’s Research & Development

Department, which was established in 1999.

The tourbillon cage makes major adjustments

through a compensatory element.

The lightness of the rotating cage of a tour-

billon skeleton watch echoes the steel and alu-

minium 46 mm diameter case, to whose black

PVD-coated sides carbon fibre adds the finish-

ing touch. The timepiece is set on a genuine

crocodile leather strap.

Each watch will be presented in a specially

designed box reflecting its musical elements

on a larger scale, echoing the quality and

craftsmanship of a traditional hand-made cello.

The luxury Swiss watchmaker has announced

yet another new product in collaboration with

Gibson brands, the fastest-growing ones in

the music industry. The forces combined to

create a special watch in a steel and titanium

case of 46 mm. The self-tuning Gibson SG

Standard provided additional inspiration and

this design re-invents them on the black dial.

The six grooves symbolise the six strings of

the SG Standard and display the Gibson logo

and iconic emblem at 12 o’clock. The case is

finished with a refined grey ceramic tachymeter

bezel. This self-winding chronograph has a 46-

hour power reserve and features 27 jewels.

The Nabucco range now spearheads the

Raymond Weil collections and showcases

the brand’s expertise in creating horological

masterpieces.


BRAND MANAGEMENT

Watch nominations for prestigious event

New classic moonphase

Nominations for the prestigious annual Europe-

an Watch of the Year 2015 are well in progress,

with a large number of watch houses already

having named their entrants. The event is or-

ganised by the world’s leading luxury watch

magazine – the UK’s 0024 WatchWorld

– which this year is named “the Stock-

holm Edition”.

Each year, watchmakers, jewel-

lers and lovers of watches look

forward to this competition,

which is judged by a jury, as-

sisted by the magazine’s read-

ers and visitors to its website.

Of particular interest this

year is Hublot’s tribute to iconic

South African statesman and

human rights activist Nelson

Mandela and the legacy he left

to his family. The brand has unveiled

the Hublot classic Fusion House of

Mandela. The company and the de-

signer consider this an honour. Cre-

ated in 18ct gold, this timepiece is available

in a gents’ model in a 42 mm diameter case,

as well as a ladies’ version, its bezel set with

35 diamonds on a black alligator strap. This

special edition is limited to 95 pieces, symbol-

ising the number of years Madiba lived. The

dial features the token of the Mandela family,

a bee with outstretched branch, symbolising

the various branches of the clan.

Bell & Ross BR 01 Skull Bronze Tourbillon

brings to life a metal from pre-history fea-

turing a 46 mm square case in aged bronze,

the skull engraved, which has a hand-wound

A new Classic Moonphase timepiece of in-

house manufacture has been released by

Swiss manufacturer Frédérique Constant.

Since 2004, the company has been based in

ultra-modern premises of 2 973 m2 in Plan-

les-Ouates, Geneva, where it has created its

own timepieces. Each watch is hand-assem-

bled, checked and controlled at length by both

human hands and high-frequency machines to

ensure reliability.

This year the brand developed and intro-

duced its 19th calibre, the new FC715, for

which its designer has created a moonphase

complication. Visible on the outside is the

beautiful, classic and elegant timepiece and on

the inside is the highly technical and refined,

precision-made movement.

movement with four complications. These are

tourbillon, regulator, accuracy indicator and

power reserve. It is mounted on a distressed

brown alligator leather strap and combines

the sophistication of an exceptional mechani-

cal movement, a case reminiscent of

the past and the provocative symbolic

resonance of the skull. It will be pre-

sented in a box made of precious

wood which has at its centre a

glass dome, allowing admirers

to gaze on the legend and mar-

vel at this unique watch. The

timepiece was unveiled at

the Monaco Yacht Show in

September.

A watch made of 797 com-

ponents is the Zenith Academy

Georges Favre-Jacot, 575 of which

are required to make the fusée train

transmission of the highly complicated

movement. This is an anniversary, not

merely a birthday piece.

Parmigliani Fleurier unveiled

a new creation earlier this year

which was inspired by music.

Named the Tonda Tourbillon

Solo de Jazz, which refers to

the renowned Montreux Jazz

Festival, this timepiece proudly

bears the banner of this music

genre and has universal appeal.

Each piece of the marquetry on the

dial has to be adjusted with great precision

and there is no glue, joints or clearance between

them. It uses marquetry, a highly precise craft

and day dials with baton-shaped, dauphine

hands – single or double – and a night sky with

the moon and stars, adding a cosmic touch.

It has a 42-hour power reserve which drives

the moonphase, date, hours, minutes and sec-

onds, all adjusted by a single crown.

The sapphire crystal case-back reveals

the performance of the movement, which is

decorated with Côtes de Genève and has blue

screws and a gold-plated rotor. The watch is

set on a choice of black or brown alligator skin

and has a pin buckle with the Frédérique Con-

stant crest engraved on it.

This family-owned company is innovative in

all stages of the watch’s production process,

from the initial design to final assembly and

quality control.

which – unlike jazz – has no room for improvi-

sation and requires heightened sensitivity. The

artist must use each grain of wood to create the

harmonious background of the dial in muted

shades. The musician’s face is made from pear-

tree wood to represent the skin, walnut for the

natural effects of the folds of his shirt

and birch for the jacket. The trum-

pet is made of Ceylon lemon-

tree wood and boxwood. This

wealth of detail is mounted on

a strap of Havana brown alli-

gator with a rose gold buckle.

Other contenders for the

prestigious title of “Watch

of the Year” include Audemars

Piguet’s lap-timer with a mechani-

cal memory, a version of IWC’s Portuguese

design, Chopard, Jaeger LeCoultre and many

more. Watch this space!

In the tradition of the finest watchmaking,

the classic manufacture moonphase is pre-

sented in a 42,5 mm case in two versions –

stainless steel or rose gold-plated finish. The

silvered disc of the moonphase features night


BRAND MANAGEMENT

Wrist candy from RadoTimepieces in sumptuous chocolate brown high

ceramic constitute the new collection from

Rado, which it describes as “wrist candy”.

These models from the HyperChrome fam-

ily are one-of-a-kind from the brand, which

is known for its everyday elegance. It has

added three chocolate-coloured models: the

HyperChrome Automatic, the Hyper Chrome

Automatic Chronograph Tachymeter and

the Limited Edition HyperChrome Diamonds.

They come in three sizes and are coated in a

luminous earthen hue with chic rose gold-col-

oured accents.

They will remain objects of everlasting

beauty due to the brand’s high-tech ceramic

properties. The rich brown colour will never

fade, claims Rado. The range is scratch-resistant

and lightweight; while the innovative material

also adapts to the wearer’s body temperature

and is a new addition to the brand’s high-tech

metallic range.

The company – based in Lengnau, Switzer-

land – pioneered the inaugural black theme

decades ago, followed by pristine white and

then elegant grey, all with a metallic plasma.

It created consistent colours in its ceramic pro-

cesses – a factor which is notoriously difficult,

but it has mastered the art. Its latest innovation,

like the collection’s predecessor, is available in

both polished and matte finishes.

Rado is recognised globally for its imagina-

tive designs, which use revolutionary materials

in creating some of the world’s most durable

watches. These three cocoa-coloured models

are indicative of the brand’s pioneering spirit

and imagination.

Rare vintage pocket watch auctioned A rare vintage pocket watch that will forever

be a part of English history went under the

hammer at Sotheby’s auction sale in London

during September. More than an exquisite

masterpiece, it has an illustrious provenance.

One of only four individual pieces pro-

duced for Allied leaders of World War II, this

particular timepiece was made specifically for

one of Britain’s greatest statesmen, Sir Win-

ston Churchill. Its design was the result of col-

laboration between leading watchmaker Louis

Cottier and manufacturer Agassiz & Co, who

invented the World Time mechanism of this

vintage piece and creates designs for Vacher-

on Constantin and Patek Philippe. These were

commissioned by a group of prominent Swiss

dignitaries, this one honouring Sir Winston’s

wartime and post-war contributions. The oth-

er three were presented to France’s General

de Gaulle, Russia’s Josef Stalin and American

President Harry Truman.

It is an exceptional victory watch designed

as a symbol of courage and leadership, in-

scribed “1943”. This year marks exactly seven

decades since the end of World War II and 50

years since the death of Churchill.

The watch has a distinctive enamel dial

which shows England’s patron, St George,

slaying the dragon, the hour hand a trident

– a symbol of good triumphing over evil and

brightness triumphing over darkness. These

were emblematic of Churchill’s strength and

courageousness during the war. Engraved on

the case-back is: “V” for “victory”, together

with a personalised dedication: “1939 – Prime

Minister Sir Winston Curchill – 1945”. It is as

if Sir Winston has been re-imagined as a mod-

ern-day hero. He received the gift in 1946 and

treasured it greatly.


MARKETPLACE

Contact Adri Viviers on 084-261-1805 or [email protected]

THE DISCOVERY OF PRECIOUS

stones provided the incentive

to create an impressive gem-

producing industry – gem-

stones have been worked in

the area since the 16th century. The town in-

directly experienced a renewed boom with the

discovery of agate deposits in Brazil by Ger-

man immigrants

The basis for the development of its manu-

facture at Idar-Oberstein lay in the resources of

the concentrates and finds of agate, as well as

good local sandstone for the cutting and pol-

ishing wheel, with major available water power

from the River Nahe to work them. The first

recorded documents of these operations recov-

ered are dated 1548.

In the 17th and 18th centuries, some 30

workshops for cutting agate were established

using the river for electricity. By the 19th cen-

tury, this number had grown to 153 cutting

shops. In more recent times, with the use of

steam power and the advent of electrical en-

ergy, manufacturers produced anything from

goblets to beads and production has been

somewhat decentralised to workshops around

the district. Nevertheless, Idar-Oberstein has

established its own gemstone industries, spe-

cialising almost exclusively in producing agate.

By the early 20th century, the town had

become a powerhouse in the field of chemistry

and this knowledge was applied to the gem

industry. It continued innovating and created

superior technologies in the chemical process,

which included a secret dyeing procedure.

Agate was also used for cameos, its layers ideal

for carving the images featured thereon. While

Idar-Oberstein focused on producing objects,

the art of cameo-caving moved to Torre del

Greco in Italy, where it is centred today. Some

years ago, en route to Capri, I watched

the callused hands of the artisans reveal

wondrous miniature works of art made

possible by the different layers of colours

which their carvings exposed.

After World War II, Idar-Oberstein need-

ed to find a new niche for itself. To do so,

it built on its previous tradition. Gem traders

moved away from agate and invested heavily

in mines in Brazil and Africa which produced

rough of many different types of gemstones.

Idar-Oberstein became a trading centre of

rough and cut stones. With the large supplies

of agate and gemstone rough, artists were

able to choose the perfect material for their

designs. A new generation of them was born

in the 20th century, including some of the best

gem-cutters of the era, such as Bernd Mun-

steiner, known to aficionados as the “Picasso

28

The town of Idar-Oberstein in Germany’s Rhineland is known as the gem centre of Europe and has a 500-year history of working with gemstones. Alice Weil explains how the first major activities began when miners found agate and amethyst in the area.


LITTLE GEMS

Agate was used extensively in ancient times, particularly in the Bronze Age and the Minoan culture.

A gem of a town

of gems”. He created fantasy gems from large

stones using his keen instincts and the depth of

the rough to unveil the best possible attributes

of a given mineral through strategically placed

facet shapes, a technique known as the “con-

text cut”. He left a family legacy to be contin-

ued by his son, Tom.

Agate is historically one of the most com-

mon materials used in the art of hard stone

carving. It was used extensively in ancient

times, particularly in the Bronze Age and the

Minoan culture. It is a variety of silica, particu-

larly chalcedony, a banded, shell-like material

of which quartz fibres are orientated vertical-

ly. Some agate is formed from silicrified fossil

shells, specifically spiral freshwater gastropods

which have elongated. Greek agate is the name

given to white to tan-coloured agate which has

been found in Sicily dating back to 400BC. The

Greeks used it for making jewellery and beads.

The Sumerians and Egyptians utilised it for dec-

oration and in religious ceremonies.

The present-day Brazilian quality is interlaced

with white and grey, which creates a startling

specimen when cut opposite the successive

bands, but is often dyed for ornamental pur-

poses. Other forms include the Lake Superior va-

riety, cornelian agate (which has a reddish hue),

Botswana agate, blue lace agate and others.

The material used to be recovered from

large and heavy blocks split with hammer and

chisel along fissures. Today, almost without

exception, it is sawed with a diamond-studded

circular saw, but some machines have been

developed which cut flat stones automatically.

The agate is shaped roughly on a wheel coated

with water and the final shaping is done

on a sandstone wheel. The stone is given

its lustre in the final polishing, which is

done slowly on a rotating cylinder of

beechwood, which shows up the fine

structural lines.

Types of jewellery for which agate

is used include pins and brooches. It

is also used for making mortars and

pestles due to its hardness and ability to

resist acids. It is a unique industry created

in and around Idar-Oberstein, with its highly

favourable natural resources.

Documents

SAJN (SA Jewellery News) Nov 2015