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south african jewellery news
The industry's only trade journal
july
201
5
Your guide to gemstone
deposits of the world
South African
economy continues to punch above
its weight
Watch industry enthusiastic
about this year’s Jewellex Africa
R36.00 (incl VAT)
Purveyors of precious metal and fine jewellery.
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of distinctive contemporary designers, bringing your vision to life.
Brought to you by Metal Concentrators (MetCon), Pioneers in Precious Metals - SA’s largest independent precious metal refinery. For more information call (021) 510 0770, email [email protected] or [email protected] or go to 24carat.co.za.
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SA JEWELLERY NEWS – JULY 2015
The views expressed in this publication are not necessarily those of the owners and the Diamond and Jewellery Federation of South Africa, its members, the publisher or its agents. While every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of its contents, neither the owners and the Diamond and Jewellery Federation of South Africa, the editor nor the publisher can be held responsible for any omissions or errors; or for any misfortune, injury or damages which may arise therefrom. The same applies to all advertising. SA Jewellery News© 2015. All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or any information storage retrieval system, without prior written permission from the publishers. ISSN 1817-5333.
Official Journal of the Diamond and Jewellery Federation of South Africa. Website: www.jewellery.org.za
Banking Details: Isikhova Publishing & Communications CC Bank: Standard Bank, Sandton, South Africa Branch Code: 01-92-05 Current Account Number: 4209 6822 9
Editor: Adri Viviers
Tel: +27 (0)11 883-4627 Cell: 084-261-1805
E-mail: [email protected]
Watch Editor: Alice Weil
Tel: +27 (0)11 880-1680 Cell: 083-266-9182
E-mail: [email protected]
Advertising Sales: Linda Stock
Cell: 081-065-7322
E-mail: [email protected]
Advertising Sales Representative (India):
Bhupal Potdar
Cell: 91-982-115-1035
Email: [email protected]
Advertising Sales Representative (Hong Kong):
Maud Errera
E-mail: [email protected]
Designer: Joanne Brook
Copy Editor: Anne Phillips
Subscriptions & Accounts: Thuli Majola
Tel: +27 (0)11 883-4627 Fax: +27 (0)11 783-2677
E-mail: [email protected]
Distribution: Ruth Dlamini and
Direct Marketing Solution
SA Jewellery News is published by:
Isikhova Publishing & Communications CC,
PO Box 651793, Benmore, 2010,
Johannesburg, South Africa.
27 Panners Lane, Riverclub, Sandton, South Africa.
Website: www.isikhova.co.za
Chief Executive Officer: Andrew Meyer
E-mail: [email protected]
Chief Financial Officer: Imraan Mahomed
E-mail: [email protected]
Printing: Colors
14. USEFUL INFORMATIONYour guide to gemstone deposits of the world
22. JEWELLERY AFRICA 2015Watch industry enthusiastic about this year’s show
18. MARKET CONDITIONSSouth African economy continues to punch above its weight
16. BRAND HISTORYThe importance of being Astron
In 2014, Bell & Ross presents the BR 03-94 CARBON ORANGE, designed especially for
professionals working under extreme conditions who require optimum legibility in all
circumstances. As in aircrafts' cockpit instruments, and to facilitate the reading of short
periods of time, a touch of orange contrasts with the matte black to highlight all the
indications relating to the chronograph function.
On the coverSOUTH AFRICAN JEWELLERY NEWS
The industry's only trade journal
JULY
201
5
Your guide to gemstone
deposits of the world
South African
economy continues to punch above
its weight
Watch industry enthusiastic
about this year’s Jewellex Africa
R36.00 (incl VAT)
c ntents
28. LITTLE GEMSThe meticulous work of JAR
24. BRAND MANAGEMENT• Inspiredbyplantstructures
• Loris&LorisParisunveilsJoanne, Ginza and Claire
• Trendytosophisticatedfrom PierreLannier
• SaintHonorécelebratesParis
• Inspiredbytheportholeson transatlantic yachts
• TheMarieAntoinettecollection
8. NEWS• JewelleryCouncilCollectionAwards Jewellery Design Competition
• AWDCandDiamondAdministration ofChinasignMemorandum of Understanding
• Christie’sleadsauctionmarket inHongKongwithsalesof US$417,6 million
• CIBJOPresidentlecturesbusiness school graduate students about corporate social responsibility in the jewellery sector
• InternationalColoredGemstone Association elects new Board of Directors
tel: +27 11 334 3400
fax: +27 11 334 3407
e-mail: [email protected]
website: www.capestardiamonds.com
address: SA Jewellery Centre, 4th Floor, Suite 426, 225 Main Street,
Johannesburg, South Africa
brilliance of nature
NEWS
CATEGORISING 3D pRINTING FOR JEWELLERY SECTOR3D printing has revolutionised the jewellery
industry in the past decade. Its speed and pro-
ductivity have improved significantly
and it really does allow jewellers to
take on many more projects.
“3D printers suitable for print-
ing in the jewellery industry can be
loosely categorised as follows: print-
ers using a jetting process to build
the model and printers using a pho-
tocured polymer resin to create the
models,” explains Nic Klopper, Com-
mercialMDofRapid3DandBuildVolume,
a company which supplies 3D printers, CAD
software and runs a 3D print bureau service for
various industries. Rapid 3D supplies machines
ranging from studio machines to high-volume
production machines capable of running hun-
dreds of pieces in a single build.
Printers based on jetting technology
typically print using two wax-based
materials, one for the model and
another for the support structures.
The support structures are then
removed by dissolving them in a
heated liquid. Jetting technology
can be slow if using a vector-based
approach and while the quality of models
is typically good, they tend to be very fragile
and need to be handled carefully. “Castability
is generally good. Running costs on this tech-
nologytendtobehigh,”addsKlopper.
Printers using resinmaterials use the same
material for both model and supports, which are
cutawayafterprinting.Post-processingisquick
and easy, with models being washed in a solvent
after printing and then put into a light box for
additionalcuring,priortocasting.Modelsrequire
higher burnout temperatures and longer cycles.
“Generally, these printers are substantially faster
than those using jetted material and are capable
of high production volumes. In addition, they
can print in multiple materials, including those
suited to printing mould masters, as well as
stoneinplacecastings,”saysKlopper.
The International Colored Gemstone Associa-
tion (ICA) has released the names of its Board
of Directors following the organisation’s board
meeting at the conclusion of the 2015 Con-
gress. ICA President Benjamin Hackman was
re-elected for a second two-year term, while
theICA’stwoVice-presidentsareDamienCody
and Santpal Sinchawala.
Newly elected to the board are Gabriel An-
garita from Colombia, Stephan Reif from Austria,
AliceMuthamafromKenya,WarrenBoydfrom
Canada, Jeffrey Bilgore from the USA, Suttipong
Dramrongsakul from Thailand, Capt Ramji Shar-
maandMazaruMizumurafromJapan.
Directors continuing their terms are Ehud
Harel from Israel, Duncan McLauchlan from
theUK,XianjinYu fromChina,BruceBridges
from the USA, Philippe Scordia from France,
Nirmal Kumar Bardiya from India, Vijay Kedia
from India, Shirley Zhang from Hong Kong,
INTERNATIONAL COLORED GEMSTONE ASSOCIATION ELECTS NEW BOARD RakeshJainfromHongKong,MarceloRibeiro
Fernandes from Brazil, Pavel Sokolov from
Russia and Gamini Zoysa from Sri Lanka.
Retained on the board as immediate Past
President is Wilson Yuen from China, while
specialadvisorsareJeanClaudeMichelou,di-
recting ICA communications and ambassadors,
Clement Sabbagh, directing the ICA Congress
andNoburyukiHoriuchi,overseeingimplemen-
tation of the ICA’s disclosure codes.
The Antwerp World Diamond Centre (AWDC)
and the Diamond Administration of China (DAC)
havesignedaMemorandumofUnderstanding
(MOU) which aims to reinforce co-operation
between the two diamond centres.
TheMOUwassignedduringtheAntwerp-
ShanghaiInvestmentForumwhichtookplace
in Antwerp from 3-4 June, attended by an eco-
nomic and political delegation led by Shanghai
PartySecretaryandformerMayorofShanghai
Han Zheng. The Investment Forum aimed to
follow up on the official visit to Shanghai by
AntwerpMayorBartDeWever, in collabora-
tionwiththePortofAntwerpandtheAWDC,
in October last year.
The wide-ranging agreement will oversee
the bilateral exchange of information about
market and industry trends, jointly promoting
and supporting Belgian and Chinese diamond
trade and investments, as well as developing
marketing initiatives to drive the sale of
diamonds and diamond jewellery. Both the
AWDC and the DAC will specifically support
HRDAntwerp’sactivitiesinChina.
AWD AND DAC SIGN MOU
Transform the way you make jewellery
Isik
hova
Pub
lishi
ng &
Com
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icat
ions
©
Tel: 010 594 4644 / 0861 000 185 • E-mail: [email protected] • Website: www.buildvolume.co.za
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – JULY 2015
Cape Watch Tools & Jewellery Supplies (Cape
Watch) has recently welcomed Rochelle Lyle
to the company. Lyle brings with her extensive
knowledge and experience in the diamond-
cutting and polishing industry. “Rochelle’s stren-
gths are undoubtedly technical advisory capac-
ity and sales and we’re all very excited to wel-
comeher to the team,”saysTennilleHogeof
Cape Watch.
Cape Watch’s history dates back to 1962,
when it was a wholesaler of tooling and parts
to the watch industry, but adapted quickly to
the cyclical downside in the late ’70s, when the
Japanese quartz movement superseded me-
chanical watch servicing and parts replacement
altogether. Traction was gained in the emerg-
ing jewellery and diamond industry by 1989.
Today,RodgerBrowneandHogearepartnered
together, having identified technology as in-
strumental to productivity and therefore profit-
ability.“Lampert’slatestofferinginthePuk4.1
is selling well and, alongside it, abrasives and
polishing compounds imported from Japan.
Lapping and polishing machinery are new ar-
rivals, with engraving, setting and cutting ma-
chines all now being offered to the watchmak-
er, jeweller, diamond dealer and hobbyist,” says
Hoge. Cape Watch has also recently secured
CApE WATCH TOOLS & JEWELLERY SUppLIES WELCOMES ROCHELLE LYLE
distributorship for brands such as Syenset, SL
(engraving systems), Alfa Mirage, Japanese
Diamond (abrasive and polishing products) and
Jool Tool (polishing and sharpening systems).
“We have a website [www.capewatch.co.za]
and encourage clients to visit it – prices are
current and convenience is our main objective.
We use only reliable couriers that offer door-
to-door deliveries. Careful consideration was
applied to layout, accurate imaging and, most
importantly, keeping the website fresh with our
companyFacebookcommunityposts,ahome
page blog spot and new product listings,”
explainsHoge.
The company also produces monthly news-
letters containing information about its latest
releases, trade news and product discounts. It
has a showroom at 33 Church St in Cape Town
and is open on the last Saturday of each month.
“Social responsibility is a way of life. It should
never be considered a strategic alternative which
a business may select to increase its revenue or
provide itself with a competitive advantage,”
saidCIBJOPresidentGaetanoCavalieri,speaking
recentlyinMilantostudentsintheMBAGlobal
Business and Sustainability programme at ALTIS
–Post-graduateBusiness&Society,thebusiness
school of Università Cattolica del Sacro Cuore,
the largest private university in Europe and the
largest Catholic university in the world.
In a wide-ranging presentation, Cavalieri
described to the students – who hail from
countries around the globe – the development
of CSR strategies in the jewellery business and
the specific obligations to society that should
be assumed by a luxury product sector.
“We deal in what are commonly considered
luxury items,” he stated. “In other words, fine
jewellery is non-essential, unlike food, energy or
pharmaceutical products. Consequently, in the
bigger scheme of things, there’s a tendency to
view our industry as having limited significance.
But that isn’t the case. On a global scale, the
number of individuals directly and indirectly
employed by the greater jewellery industry
runs into millions and there are entire countries
whose economic well-being is dependent upon
the products we produce and sell.”
With the increasing public interest in CSR,
and the private sector’s responsibility towards
greater society becoming a fixture in many
business school programmes, Cavalieri’s been
invited to lecture to numerous academic forums
about the specific programmes introduced in
the jewellery trade. Among the universities at
which he’s lectured are the Polytechnic Uni-
versityofMilanandSciencesPoandtheParis
InstituteofPoliticalStudies.
CIBJO pRESIDENT LECTURES BUSINESS SCHOOL GRADUATES
NEWS
The Jewellery Manufacturers’ Association of
SA (JMASA) has invited all students, appren-
tices and/or learners to participate in the 2015
Jewellery Council Collection Awards Jewellery
Design Competition. This competition has not
been held since 2011 and the Executive Com-
mittee thought it opportune to have it coincide
with Jewellex Africa 2015.
This year’s theme is “It Looks Like Christ-
mas”. “Everyone loves to receive a beautiful
piece of jewellery for Christmas, whether it’s a
mother, a father, a lover or a friend,” explains
Lorna Lloyd, CEO of the Jewellery Council of
SA. “Christmas encourages a special way of
expressing our love for others.” Entrants will
be required to design and manufacture a ring
which can be sold commercially.
Entries and finished jewellery items must
besubmittedtotheJMASAofficesbynolater
than 1 September 2015.
Judging will be conducted by visitors and
exhibitors at Jewellex Africa 2015 on the first
two days of the exhibition (27 and 28 October).
An overall winner, as well as those in second
and third place, will be selected.
The prize-giving ceremony will be held in the
CoffeeShopPiattaattheJewellexExhibitionon
29 October at 12h00.
The overall winner will receive a trophy of ex-
cellence sponsored by Umjindi Jewellery, 1 kg of
fine silver to the value of R8 000 sponsored by
CapePreciousMetals,aone-yearbursaryatany
training institution to be agreed upon with the
sponsor,MetalConcentrators,aswellasacash
prize of R3 000 sponsored by Sundelson Bros.
Those in second and third place will each
receive a trophy sponsored by Umjindi Jewellery,
500goffinesilversponsoredbyCapePrecious
Metals valued at R4 000 and a cash prize of
R1 000 sponsored by Sundelson Bros.
The top 10 finalists will each receive
a certificate.
JEWELLERY COUNCIL COLLECTION AWARDS COMpETITION
Renowned private collections dominated
Christie’s Spring auctions. Over 60 auction re-
cords were broken across categories and col-
lectors also witnessed the most valuable jew-
ellery auction ever organised in Asia (US$117,9
million). Buyers from mainland China contin-
ued to be active and were joined this year by
collectors from Singapore and Taiwan, who
competed for five days in 16 auctions.
“The season was especially memorable
for the many important collections curated
by Christie’s specialists, offering art-lovers
access to some of the top private collections
from around the world, including the family
collectionofK’ungHsiang-HsiandtheFeng
Wen Tang Collection. Combined with many
exquisite treasures, Christie’s rewrote the re-
cord for the highest total ever achieved for
CHRISTIE’S LEADS AUCTION MARKET IN HONG KONG a jewellery auction in Asia and a handbag
auctionheldworldwide.Manyotherrecords
were also established, including of 56 artist
records. These included a number of Asian
artistswhomade their auction débuts. The
auction week exemplified Asian collectors’
unwavering passion for fine art and collecta-
bles,” says RebeccaWei, President ofChris-
tie’s Asia.
USEFUL INFO
Your guide to gemstone deposits of the world
Brazil•diamond•emeraldandotherberyls•opal•quartzvarieties•tourmaline•topaz•garnet•chrysoberyl•amazonite
Tahiti•pearl
Hawaii•peridot•coral
Mexico•fireopal•quartzvarieties•topaz•turquoise•feldspar
Guatemala•jadeite
United States•sapphire•ruby•emerald•aquamarine•quartzvarieties•topaz•tourmaline•peridot
•garnets•nephrite•turquoise•sunstone•redberyl•feldspar•spodumene•pearl
Canada•diamond•amethyst•garnet
•nephrite•labradorite •feldspar
•amber•sodalite•ammolite
Colombia•emerald
Venezuela•diamond•jasper•pearl
Guyana•diamond
Bolivia•ametrine
West Indies •coral
Dominican Republic•amber
Alps•quartzvarieties•feldspar•fluorite
Spain•aventurine•quartz•jet
Italy•tourmaline•amber•coral•serpentine
Nigeria•sapphire•aquamarine•topaz•spinel
Sierra Leone, Ghana, Ivory Coast•diamond
Germany•amethyst*•agate*•topaz*
Great Britain•smokyquartz*•jet*•fluorite
Finland•labradorite
Poland•chrysoprase*•amber
Argentina•rhodochrosite•quartzvarieties
Central African Republic•diamond
South Africa •diamond•emerald*•quartz•tourmaline
•Transvaaljade•rhodochrosite•verdite•royallavulite
Namibia•diamond•aquamarine•quartz•agate•tourmaline•topaz•mandaringarnet•sodalite•demantoid
Honduras•opal
Chile •lapislazuli
14 SA JEWELLERY NEWS – JULY 2015
Areas such as Africa, Brazil and India are rich in varieties and have produced gems for centuries. Other localities yield a single gem of exceptional quality such as Mogok in Burma (Myanmar).
USEFUL INFO
Your guide to gemstone deposits of the world
Tanzania•tanzanite•tsavorite
•emerald•garnet
Taiwan•nephrite
Indonesia•diamond
Japan•jadeite•topaz•quartz•coral•rhodolite
New Zealand•nephrite
Australia•opal•sapphire•diamond•emerald•chrysoprase•jasper•nephrite•pearl•coral
China•nephrite•ruby•sapphire•aquamarine•amethyst •peridot•diamond•turquoise•amber•jadeite
Thailand, Vietnam•ruby•sapphire•almandine•garnet•zircon
Sri Lanka•ruby•sapphire•amethyst•tourmaline•topaz•zircon•garnet•chrysoberyl•spinel•moonstone •Iolite•otherrarespecies
India • diamond•ruby•sapphire•emerald•aquamarine •quartz•almandinegarnet•chrysoberyl•moonstone•rhodolite•stariopside•sodalite•pearl
Iran•turquoise
Kenya•ruby•sapphire•aquamarine•amethyst•tourmaline•garnet•spinel•feldspar•tsavoriteZaire
•diamond•ruby•sapphire•emerald•aquamarine•tourmaline•garnet•chrysoberyl•feldspar•tanzanite
Madagascar • aquamarine and other beryls•quartz•sapphire•ruby•spodumene•chrysoberyl •feldspar•topaz•tourmaline
Burma•ruby•sapphire•quartz•topaz•tourmaline•peridot •zircon•spinel•chrysoberyl•jadeite•moonstone •kunzite•amber•otherrarevarieties
•diamond•emeraldand other beryls •quartz
•chrysoprase•tourmaline•topaz•demantoid
•garnet•alexandrite•nephrite•lapislazuli
•feldspar•malachiteAfghanistan
•ruby•aquamarine•spinel•tourmaline•lapislazuli•kunzite
Austria •emerald*•almandine
Czech Republic • opal*•pyropegarnet*
Romania•chalcedony•amber•rhodolite•moldavite
Egypt•emerald*•jasper•peridot•turquoise*
Norway•emerald*•peridot•pyrope•garnet•aventurine•feldspar
Zambia•emerald•chrysoberyl•malachite
Zimbabwe • emerald•aquamarine•quartz•topaz•tourmaline•garnet•chrysoberyl•verdite•diamond
Angola•diamond
Botswana•diamond•agate
Mozambique • smoky quartz•tourmaline
Pakistan•ruby•emerald•aquamarine•garnet•spinel•topaz
Namibia•diamond•aquamarine•quartz•agate•tourmaline•topaz•mandaringarnet•sodalite•demantoid
Persian Gulf•pearl
Russia, Urals, Siberia
The symbol * indicates deposits of historic importance only
15SA JEWELLERY NEWS – JULY 2015
16 SA JEWELLERY NEWS – JULY 2015
BRAND HISTORY
In the annals of watch history, the name Seiko Astron has played a significant role. The very first model was a technical
breakthrough in quartz watch technology. The release of a limited edition of 100 timepieces in Tokyo in 1969
heralded the so-called quartz watch revolution.
“Astron” ISTHEGREEKWORDFOR“STAR”
and in view of its stellar performance, this is
an apt name for the world’s first marketable,
quartz-powered watch which made the Seiko
name famous, particularly as it offered greater
accuracy than a mechanical timepiece, at five
seconds per month. These first models com-
bined the skills of the brand’s new technology,
with its experience in mechanical watchmaking
Quartz technology was not unknown –
experiments by Pierre Curie in the mid-19th
century had proved that when an electrical
current is passed across a quartz crystal, the
crystal vibrates at a very fast and precise speed.
In 1927 a technician at Bell Laboratories in the
USA was the first to demonstrate that time
could be measured accurately, based on this
presumption and as early as 1959, Seiko had
built a broadcast clock successfully used in
JapanbyradioandTVstations.Butthisclock
was huge and the challenge was to reduce it
to a timepiece small enough to wear within the
confines of a wrist-watch.
By 1962 Seiko had been successful in
building a quartz marine chronometer which
weighed 30 kg and the following year a
hand-held quartz timer was created
for sporting events, its weight a
mere 3 kg. This was the first
quartz device ever used at the
Olympic Games, in 1964 in
Tokyo, as a back-up timer for
longer athletic events. It was a
device which was marketed.
These developments had
proved that a stable and reliable
quartz timer could be built. But
the remaining challenge was that
of miniaturisation and the key ad-
vancement was the development of
an open-style stepping motor which re-
quired one coil (a stepping motor is an electro-
mechanical device that converts mechanical
impulses, dividing a full rotation into an equal
number of parts). The quartz movement also
needed to be reduced, while an integrated cir-
cuit (IC) had to be invented so that a miniature
battery could be used. These advances made it
possible to build a movement which could run
for more than a year on a button-sized battery
that could fit into a wristwatch – yet another
challenge being to reduce the size of the bat-
tery. “Energy efficiency was the key,” explains
RobertWilson,MDofSeikoEurope.
Christmas Day 1969 was a momentous
occasion in the history of what became known
as the quartz watch revolution when the first
Seiko Astron, in a limited edition of 100 in
an 18ct gold case, went on sale in Tokyo. It
almost anywhere on earth,” was the boast – in
39 time zones, actually. It represented further
expansion of the brand’s technology.
Thenewest release, theAstronGPSSolar
Dual Time – the third in the series – announced
at Baselworld 2015 is the perfect timepiece for
the global traveller. This sports watch contains
the remarkable 8x calibre first released at last
year’s international showcase and requires the
mere touch of one button on your time zone.
It is reputed to be the highest calibre available
worldwide. The exterior complements the
high technology within the advanced design
of the timepiece.
In a sleek, lightweight 45 mm titanium
case with black hand-coating, it has a ceramic
bezelandadialwhichaddflairtothesporty
style. The timepiece is mounted on a titanium
bracelet with ceramic inserts and included
is a separate crocodile leather strap with a
three-fold clasp to change the appearance
of the watch at will. Time zones are marked
on the interior dial ring and the bezel has a
tachymeter to enable the instant calculation
of speed in this avant garde creation. The
sapphire crystal has super-clear coating. The
timepiece is water-resistant to 10 bars and
magnetic-resistance is 4 800 Am. It is due for
release in September.
demonstrated that with further
technological advances, a
quartz watch could deliver
far greater accuracy than any
mechanical timepiece available
at the time, as this model was
accurate to five seconds a month.
In 1975 Seiko released the first
LCD quartz watch with a digital display
delivering even greater accuracy and
in 1983 an analogue quartz model fol-
lowed. Further innovations included the Seiko
Kinetic,poweredbythemovementofthewear-
er’s arm, which was a combination of automatic
and electronic watchmaking. “The first Astron
became a platform for future innovations – and
who’s to say what might eventuate?” asks Wil-
son. Astron became a name to remember – as
important today as it was in the 1960s and ’70s.
Yet despite the successes for which patents
had already been registered, Seiko chose
to make these advances available to the
watchmaking world. It could well be said that
the Japanese brand played a significant role in
advancing this new technology in the industry.
The second Astron released in 2012, the
SeikoAstronGPS Solar (so named in honour
of its predecessor), is part of the legend. “If
you can see the sky, you can know the time
The importance of being Astron
18 SA JEWELLERY NEWS – JULY 2015
MARKET CONDITIONS
Despite facing undeniably
serious challenges, the South
African economy remains a
force to be reckoned with –
especially on the continent.
THE ROLE OF MINERALS AND METALS
in the South African economy cannot
be overstated; according to the World
Bank, they make up almost half of the
country’s total exports.
WithaGDPofUS$623billion,SAranks
25th in the world in terms of economic
muscle. It is the only African member
of BRICS, the group of rapidly emerg-
ing economies currently comprising
Brazil, China, India, Russia and SA. The country
of 53 million boasts the second-largest economy
in Africa (behind Nigeria), accounting for 24% of
the continent’s gross domestic product, and is
demonstratingconsistentgrowth.Muchofthis
growth is focused on Africa, where SA still ac-
counts for the highest amount of foreign direct
investment into the continent.
Strong fundamentals
SA continues to enjoy strong economic fun-
damentals, as evidenced by its weathering of
the 2007/8 global financial crisis. The country
was recently ranked as the 53rd most com-
petitive country in which to do business by the
respected World Economic Forum’s Global
CompetitivenessIndex(secondonlytoMauri-
tius on the continent and overtaking Brazil to
second in the BRICS cohort). According to the
report, which surveys business people in 148
countries and is conducted annually, South Af-
rican institutions fared excellently, particu-
larly in their protection of intellectual
property and property rights and the
legal system’s ability to challenge and
settle disputes effectively (all these
indicators were rated in the top
20 globally). The accountability
of South African private institu-
tions was ranked second in the
world, while its financial market
development continues to impress (ranked
third globally). In 2013, FDI magazine, taking
into account economic potential, la-
bour, infrastructure and the ease of
doing business, ranked the coun-
try as the top “African country
of the future”. And – partly
due to the above-men-
tioned global crisis, but
also due to perceived
improved quality of life
– SA is seeing a partial
reversal of the “brain-drain”
(professionals who emigrated
in the 1990s and 2000s),
with some researchers putting the number of
skilled returnees as high as 360 000.
The South African government has con-
siderably improved economic conditions –
particularly for the export market – including
putting in place policies that work to increase
efficiencies of time, cost and bureaucracy for
companies to get product to port, as evidenced
by the World Bank’s recent assessment of ease
of trading across South African borders.
Growing export markets
The results speak for themselves: exports from
SA have shown consistent growth. As of July
last year, SA exported R85,372 million worth
of goods (slightly down from its all-time high
of R86,499 million in November 2013). SA is a
leading global exporter of metals and miner-
als, fruit, sugar, corn and wool. According to
trading Economics, it is also the world’s biggest
exporter of chromium and platinum (account-
ing for 8% of the country’s total exports). Gold
(accounting for more than one-third of to-
tal exports), iron ore (7%), coal
(6%), motor vehicles and car
parts (5%) and diamonds
make up the rest of SA’s
main exports. Export
recipients include Ja-
pan and the USA (both
accounting for 10% of
SA’s economy still punches above its weight
19SA JEWELLERY NEWS – JULY 2015
MARKET CONDITIONS
The role of minerals and metals in the South African economy cannot be overstated; according to the World Bank, they make up almost half of the country’s total exports.
the market), Germany (7%),
theUK(6%),China(5%),the
Netherlands (4%), India and
Belgium. Sub-Saharan Africa
has recently overtaken Europe
as SA’s biggest trading partner (recipient) of
non-mineral exports.
Massive role of the mining industry
The role of minerals and metals in the South
African economy cannot be overstated;
according to the World Bank, they make up
almost half of the country’s total exports. SA’s
mining industry is estimated to be the fifth-
largest (in termsofGDP value) in theworld.
Massivereservesrestinthecountry,including
platinum (78% of global reserves), gold (50%
of global reserves), diamonds, chromate ore
and vanadium. Total reserves of all minerals
and metals are estimated to be worth upwards
of US$2,5 trillion. And, because South African
gold rests at low geothermal gradients, deeper
mining is possible; according to the Chamber
ofMines,SouthAfricangoldminingisvalued
at close to a whopping US$4 billion.
According to government statistics, SA is
the fourth-biggest producer in the world of
diamonds by value (after Botswana, Russia and
Canada), to the tune of R15 million in 2011.
Although higher demand in China and India is
seeing increased demand for cut diamonds in
resulted in very high expertise – notably in re-
search and production – as well as world-class
processing facilities. South African companies
are world leaders in converting low-grade su-
per-fine iron ore into high-quality iron units,
for example.
In recent years, however, South African mines
– particularly in the platinum sector – have seen
protracted and violent strikes, affecting output
and morale significantly. This culminated in the
deathsof48peoplein2013atMarikana.While
some of this unrest is undoubtedly due to intra-
union vying for power, sector management
needs to revisit labour policies in order to
ensure uninterrupted production. The rising
costs of electricity, transportation and other
infrastructural challenges also serve to counter
the sector’s growth.
Although the value of South African dia-
mond production has risen significantly in
recent years (even while production has de-
creased), there remains much to be done to
stimulate the domestic manufacturing and
polishing services in order to add value to
the finished diamond product. Approximate-
ly 16% of the world’s diamond production
comes from SA, yet only 1% of the world’s
jewellery is produced locally. In view of the
need to add value and thereby create employ-
ment and skills, emphasis has recently been
placed on upskilling young designers in jew-
ellery manufacturing. Currently, the industry
(which varies from high-end, bespoke studios
to large-scale concerns) employs almost 4 000
people, and this is growing due to increased
demand, especially from Europe and the USA.
(SA enjoys duty-free status on exports to the
latter under GATT.)
Vehicle manufacturing industry shows con-
sistent growth
While mining remains the major driver of the
South African economy, other important sectors
include motor vehicle and parts manufacturing,
telecommunications, information technology
(IT), tourism and agriculture.
Combined, the vehicle, component and tyre
manufacturing industries contribute around
6%ofGDPandcreateover100000jobs,ac-
cording to the Automotive Industry Export
Council. Some of the world’s best-known
vehiclebrands,suchasBMW,GeneralMotors,
Mercedes-Benz,Nissan,Toyota,Ford (Mazda),
RenaultandVolkswagen,havemanufacturing
plantsinSA,manybasedclosetoNelsonMan-
dela Bay Municipality (Port Elizabeth) to take
advantage of the COEGA Special Economic
Zoneandport.Manybrandedvehiclepartsare
also manufactured in SA.
SA’s economy still punches
emerging markets, almost 75% of the export
goes to traditional markets in Europe, Japan
and North America.
And the mining and minerals industry ben-
efits the domestic economy to the tune of bil-
lions. It is estimated to contribute more than
one-third of the value of the Johannesburg
Stock Exchange, while being an excellent earn-
er of foreign exchange. It contributes almost
13,2% of all company taxes and is responsi-
ble for 20% of foreign investment. Perhaps
more importantly, the mining sector remains
the country’s largest employer, creating 1,3
million jobs in 2012 and spending R7,4 billion
on training in the same year. This training has
20 SA JEWELLERY NEWS – JULY 2015
MARKET CONDITIONS
Aided by SA being in the same time zone as
Europe, the excellent levels of spoken English
and cost-efficiencies, companies from Amazon
to Lufthansa employ thousands in their call
centres, for example.
The dawn of tourism
Tourism is another soft industry that
has gained major importance to
the South African economy.
Helped by good weather, di-
verse landscapes with a wealth
of wildlife, excellent food, con-
venient amenities and the success-
fulhostingof the2010FIFAWorldCup,SA is
regarded as a reasonably safe and accessible
gateway to see a part of Africa. Tourism is re-
sponsible for an almost 8% contribution to the
overallGDPin2009andthisfigureisexpected
to more than double by 2020. Government, see-
ing the excellent employment returns in the sec-
tor, is committed to growing tourism, with both
national and provincial tourism bodies actively
marketing their respective regions and expand-
ing their offerings on a consistent basis.
Agriculture – a waning force
Much is said of the quality of SouthAfrican
produce, but agriculture is no longer the ma-
jor contributor to the economy it once was
and is currently responsible for just 2,6% of
the country’s GDP. The sector employs 10%
of the formal workforce and many more on
acasualbasis.Maincropsincludecorn,fruit,
citrus and wool. Water scarcity and the high
costs of transportation and electricity
have made farming an increasingly
difficult business to pursue.
Facing the challenges
Notwithstanding the above, the
South African economy faces several
serious challenges. These include mas-
sive unemployment (pegged at 25%)
and huge inequality: SA is rated as the 82nd
most unequal country in the world. Corrup-
tion, especially in the public sector, has become
commonplace and hinders development. Due
to these issues, ratings agencies have recently
downgraded SA’s credit ratings – and are ex-
pected to do so again before year-end. This will
make the importation of much-needed ma-
chinery and transportation equipment (which
comprise one-third of all SA’s imports) more
expensive.
Besides building and maintaining existing
infrastructure, SA needs to smooth the way
for exporters through the lowering of logistics
and transportation costs and use its political
clout on regional political bodies such as SA-
DEC and the African Union to further regional
integration. The government is already well
aware of the benefits of encouraging small
and medium-sized enterprises, but can go fur-
ther in reducing red tape and increasing ac-
cess to finance for entrepreneurs.
If SA can meet these challenges, the next
decade should see the continued growth of its
economy and positive spin-offs for the coun-
try’s neighbours and the African continent as
a whole.
The Automotive Production & Develop-
ment Programme, the government initiative
to stimulate the motor manufacturing indus-
try, wants to see output quadruple by 2020
(in 2010, 271 000 vehicles were exported from
SA), mirroring the growth rate of the past two
decades; however, as in the mining sector, la-
bour unrest has affected the industry and will
need to be addressed for this sector to con-
tinue its strong growth.
Shift to service industries
Although still heavily reliant on the manu-
facturing and mining industries, the South
African economy is following other emerging
economies in making a shift towards “soft”
or service industries. The telecommunications
sectormakesup10%ofGDP.Theexistenceof
a top-notch digital and wireless infrastructure,
supported by satellite Internet access, and the
rapid roll-out of mobile technology have al-
lowed companies to expand rapidly and gain
hugeprofitshare.ManyofSA’soperators,such
as MTN and Vodacom, have successfully ex-
panded to the rest of the continent and to the
MiddleEast,forexample.
The IT industry accounts for $10,3 billion in
revenue, according to the South African Elec-
trotechnical Export Council. Much of this is
from electronic banking and mobile software
services, with local companies adapting First
World technology to meet the challenges of
developingnations. Pre-payment systems and
set-top box manufacturing are just two exam-
ples of South African IT products successfully
broughttomarket.Manyoftheseinnovations
are adapted and exported to the continent, in-
cluding to the fast-growing economies of Nige-
ria,MozambiqueandAngola.
South African software development com-
panies are recognised the world over for their
efficiency and flexibility. In fact, the country
was recently ranked as one of the best 30 na-
tions within which to outsource software de-
velopment. According to www.southafrica.info,
approximately 1 000 software development
companies exist in SA. South African companies
supportworldITleaderssuchasIBM,Dell,Intel
and others, which all have satellite offices in the
country.
The government is also actively encouraging
the growth of the IT sector through the Indus-
trial Development Corporation’s Support for
Industrial Innovation programme. The Income
Tax Act has been amended to allow software
developers to claim up to 150% of research
and development as expenses. Outsourcing by
multi-national companies is also done in the
customer service and telemarketing industries.
Sources:
www.wikipedia.org
www.southafrica.info/business/econo my/globalsurveys.htm#competitiveness
As quoted in Wikipedia: http://en.wiki- pedia.org/wiki/FDi_magazine
Adcorp, as quoted on www.southafrica. info/abroad
www.mediaclubsouthafrica.com
www.tradingeconomics.com
www.worldbank.org
www.southafrica.info
http://chamberofmines.org.za
www.gov.za
http://info.goldavenue.com
As referenced on www.southafrica. info/business/economy/sectors/automo- tiveoverview.htm
Ranked by Gartner, as stated on www.southafrica.info/business/economy/sectors/icte-overview.htm#
National Department of Tourism: www.tourism.gov.za
According to Wikipedia: http://en.wiki-pedia.org/wiki/Agriculture_in_South_Africa
African odyssey 2014/15
Wishing all our Muslim clients a blessed fasting month and joyous Eid Mubarak.
From the Bassano Gioielli Team
Tel: (011) 704-5667/4164Fax: (011) 704-4002
www.bassanogioielli.com
Wishing all our Muslim clients, colleagues and friends a
blessed Ramadan.
Pretoria: (012) 000-4440Cape Town: (021) 510-0770
Durban: 083-600-2210E-mail: [email protected]
www.metcon.co.za
CJR Gift Sales (Pty) Ltd wishes all its Muslim customers prosperity,
faith and happiness in the holy month of Ramadan.
Tel: (011) 257-6000E-mail: [email protected]
Wishing all our Muslim clients and friends happiness and faith in the holy month of Ramadan
and a joyous Eid ul Fitr.
Tel: (011) 642-2018/9Fax: (011) 642-2016E-mail: [email protected]
Wishing all our Muslim clients prosperity, faith and happiness in
the holy month of Ramadan and a joyous Eid ul Fitr.
Tel: (011) 805-7574Fax: (011) 805-7576
E-mail: [email protected]
InternatIonal DIamonD
CertIfICatIon laboratory
D I ABest wishes to you and your family
for a happy and blessed Eid.
Tel: (011) 334-5911E-mail: [email protected]
www.diagrading.co.za
22 SA JEWELLERY NEWS – JULY 2015
JEWELLEX AFRICA
There seems to be a revival of the local industry, with Jewellex being the catalyst.
Watch industry
What would an exhibitor/visitor gain from
attending Jewellex and what does Mon-
tres du Monde wish to gain?
There seems to be a revival of the local
industry, with Jewellex being the catalyst –
and every visitor and exhibitor will be a part
of this. We’re excited about the event and are
looking forward to meeting all the key players
in the industry there.
Do you think Jewellex Africa 2015 will be
different from previous years?
I’ve heard that it’s going to be very different
and, unlike recent years, most of the space has
alreadybeensold.Myadviceis:don’tmissit!
How long have you been involved in the
jewellery industry in South Africa?
I was born into the jewellery industry, so I’ve
been involved in it my whole life, but only for
the past 15 years on a full-time basis.
Are you optimistic about the future of the
South African jewellery industry – and
the watch industry, in particular?
The industry’s facing a difficult time at the
moment, but I have no doubt that the market
will turn. The trick is to be able to survive until
then. Due to the influx of brands into the
South African market, customers have more
exposure to different watches and are better
educated about watches, which leads to a better
understanding of the value of a particular brand.
The future of the watch industry is exciting.
What brands will be on display at the
Montres du Monde stand at this
year's Jewellex Africa?
We’ll be showcasing Bell&Ross at
Jewellex. We’ll also be launching an-
other high-end luxury brand there which will
definitely “wow” visitors.
Why will Montres du Monde attend Jew-
ellex Africa again this year?
Last year was a good show for us and Jewellex
Africa is the only time we get to see all the
retailers and showcase ourselves in the correct
environment. The news in the trade is that
2015 will be an exceptional event and we
definitely don’t want to miss out.
Why are shows like Jewellex vital?
The players in the industry, from manufacturing
to wholesale and retail, need to realise that
we’re all dependent on each other and that we
need to work together in order for everyone
to be successful. Jewellex brings all the sectors
of the industry together and is a platform for
them to interact.
Mohammed Ravat of Montres du Monde, which won Stand of the Year at last year’s Jewellex Africa with its renowned watch brand Bell&Ross, is very excited about this year’s show, where it will be launching another high-end luxury brand.
enthusiastic aboutthis year’s show
24 SA JEWELLERY NEWS – JULY 2015
BRAND MANAGEMENT: FRENCH WATCHES, JEWELLERY AND HIGH JEWELLERY
French luxury watch and clockmaker
Pequignet is dedicated to quality and a love
of craftsmanship, which is made possible by
its independence as a company. The brand’s
successful Royale Titane design has now been
produced in a limited edition in a unique black
version of 50 pieces.
Its new model, the Royale Titane Grande
Date Calibre Noir, has a 44 mm black DLC
titanium case, with its movement the calibre
Royale. It has large Superluminova indices
on the hour and minute hands on its black
sunburst dial, a small seconds dial, an 88-hour
power reserve indicator and a double date and
day window.
This model is water-resistant to 50 m and
has a sapphire case-back held by six titanium
screws, an anti-reflective sapphire bezel and
a black titanium crown marked with
the fleur-de-lys logo relief. The black
dial has a large date in a double
window, the small seconds dial
and the power reserve indicator,
aswellasanappliquéhourring
with cloisonné Luminova and
Superluminova hands.
The “Calibre Royale” move-
ment with which the watch is
fitted is designed, assembled and
tested in the brand’s high watch-
making laboratories in Morteau in
theFrenchwatchmakingregionofthe
Jura Mountains. It has 21 600 vibra-
tions per hour, with dual-direction auto-
matic initial force distribution by a central bar-
Elegance in black
Born one morning in 1990 in the crea-
tivemindofjewellerLorisKorchidian,un-
der thenameof LorisParis, thebrandhas
weathered the decades and now takes
thename“Loris&LorisParis”. Its crea-
tor has strived ceaselessly for perfection,
both in his work and in the materials and
raw materials used.
AsasmallchildinLebanon,Korchidian
spent most of his time in his grandfather’s
workshop. Exposed to the business from
a very young age and irresistibly drawn to
beautiful and precious objects, he began work
as an apprentice to a jeweller at the age of 14,
before being consumed by a passion for setting
precious stones.
Scarcely aged 20, he created his own jewel-
lery brand, making his childhood dream come
true.InParis,herapidlymetwiththegreatest
namesofthePlaceVendômeanddecided
to install his workshop close to this mythi-
cal square and develop his own high-end
jewellery brand.
Loris & Loris specialised in the creation
and manufacture of high jewellery
items and achieved success very
quickly, acclaimed for its exper-
tise in design and craftsmanship.
Today the firm continues
to produce the distinctively French
aesthetic of high-end jewellery which
its founder first embraced. The brand’s
ambition is to continue its develop-
mentthroughpartnershipsbothinFranceand
abroad. Loris & Loris creations are currently vis-
ibleindisplaywindowsinParis,ChinaandJa-
pan. It recently unveiled three new collections:
Joanne, Ginza and Claire.
Because women are so diverse and dynamic,
Joanne is a range of rings in grey gold compris-
ing three models: one set with four diamonds
in the centre surrounded by small brilliants and
with matching earrings, a second set with one
diamond and a third without diamonds.
Inspired by the Japanese art of knot-
tying and taking its name from a famous
district of Tokyo, Ginza is a grey gold pen-
dant set with diamonds. A grey gold chain
is also available in a larger model set with
small brilliants. Two small knots as earrings,
set with diamonds, complete the collection.
Fifteen referencesofbracelets, rings,pen-
dants and earrings in grey, pink or yellow gold
and diamonds comprise the Claire collection of
more streamlined, accessible items. All of them
are based on diamonds, comprising the brand’s
totem and highly graphic ranges.
Loris & Loris paris unveils Joanne, Ginza and Claire
rel axis and large balance with compensating
screws. This movement is finished with pearl
black bridges and plate and Côtes de
Genève, as well as a black sunburst-
winding rotor. The watch is mounted
on a black vulcanised rubber strap,
also marked with the lys motif
and a black DLC titanium double
butterflybuckle.
The 50 models of this
elegant watch will be produced
with 30 having a date display in
Englishand20withitinFrench.
The Calibre Royale is the latest
movement produced by the brand
and includes numerous innovations
and integrated complications, eight of
them patented. The movement is exclu-
sivetoPequignet.
pierre Lannier: from trendy to sophisticated Pierre Lannier’s latest collection for
2015 offers a wide range of models
– from trendy to highly sophisticated
– in a variety of materials, shapes and
mechanisms.
Chic and feminine, Les Citadines has
now been expanded to include new models
of minimalist design with elegant and refined
details in an urban chic style, available in
various different versions.
Pierre Lannier continues the de-
velopment of the Les Contempo-
raines range, now extended to
include many models in soft
shapes, celebratingMil-
anese mesh, taken from
men’s ranges and creat-
ing a resolutely new look.
LesContemporaines’LesCé-
ramiques proves that white or black
ceramic is always very popular. The new
collection includes designs whch are even
more feminine, designed with fashion in
mind and with precious-look details (such
as strass, pearly dials and golden links).
The Les Chronographes range is
always very trendy: circular or rectan-
gular, the various styles have a
notably urban look, highlighting
the brand’s expertise.
For city gentlemen, Les
Chronographes’ City Chics are
both discreet and original, with
an innovative design. They are avail-
able in three different versions: steel
case and white, black dial with Roman
numerals or pinkish gold steel case with
matching Roman numerals.
25SA JEWELLERY NEWS – JULY 2015
BRAND MANAGEMENT: FRENCH WATCHES, JEWELLERY AND HIGH JEWELLERY
Saint Honoré celebrates parisSaintHonoréhasbeensynonymouswith the
famous“Parisstyle”since1885andpresents
easily identifiable collections. The elegance
and watchmaking know-how of the brand at-
tract amateurs of contemporary timepieces.
Elegance, tradition, innovation and passion
are the brand’s watchwords. Two of its latest
collections are Tour Eiffel and Audacy.
In celebration of its 130th anniversary, Saint
Honoréhasdesignedacollector’smodelmade
for the first time from a metallic beam taken
from the Eiffel Tower, one of the most famous
monuments in the world.
Saint Honoré has used this precious com-
ponent to make the bezel, whose pattern and
colourareanimmediatereminderoftheParis-
ian landmark.
The bezel surrounds a dial created in relief
(which uses the same architecture) and reveals
at its centre the cogs of a mechanical, auto-
matic winding movement, specifically person-
alised by the brand.
Worn on an elegant croco-look strap, the
“Tour Eiffel” watch is produced in a limited edi-
tion of 1885 steel watches (in celebration of the
year in which this watchmaking firm was estab-
lished). It is a unique opportunity to wear an ex-
ceptionalsymbolofFranceandthetechnologi-
cal genius of Gustave Eiffel on your wrist.
The steel case is surmounted by a bezel
sculpted from an element of the tower’s fa-
mous lattice pattern. The open-work silvery
dial is also reminiscent of its architecture. The
brown croco-look strap has a “Tour Eiffel” pin
buckle. The watch comes in a collector’s case,
with a certificate of authenticity signed by the
companywhichoperatesthetower,theSociété
d’Exploitation de la Tour Eiffel.
“Red suits you so well” is a real declaration –
and the “Audacy” watch displays the colour of
passion and love. Entirely red from dial to strap,
the watch seeks to seduce and even bewitch.
The “clous de Paris” hobnail decoration
reigns supreme on the bezel, in a very carefully
laid-out two-row pattern, as well as on the dial,
around the edge of the subsidiary seconds dial.
The watch boasts a gorgeous red guillochéd
dial decorated with silver-coloured indices and
hands for perfect legibility.
Another visual signature lies in the gener-
ously curved crown, off-centred at 4 o’clock,
giving this model a unique look. Decorated
with an onyx, the crown further enhances the
prestige and elegance of a watch that is both
discreet and dazzling.
Formorediscreetwomen,SaintHonoréof-
fers this model with a white, brown or golden
dialand leatherstrap.Morecoloursmakethe
watch just as desirable.
The Marie Antoinette collectionIn this collection, Commelin pays tribute to the
lastqueenofFrance:MarieAntoinette.
Thedaughter of theHoly RomanEmperor
FrancisIandEmpressMariaTheresaofAustria,
shewasborninViennaon2November1755.
In April 1770, she married the future king
of France, Louis XVI andmoved to Versailles,
where she had four children before her tragic
death on the guillotine on 16 October 1793 in
Paris,duringtheFrenchRevolution.
Passionateaboutflowers(particularlyroses),
MarieAntoinettewasrenownedforherloveof
nature and her great elegance.
In 18ct (750/1 000th) white or yellow gold
and translucent or opaque precious enamel,
the“BouquetdeMarieAntoinette”collection
is available as earrings and a pendant.
A necklace, pendant and earrings in 18ct
(750/1 000th) white or yellow gold and trans-
lucent or opaque precious enamel comprise the
“RosesdeMarieAntoinette”collection.
The “Rubans de Marie Antoinette” evoke
the delicate ornamental ribbons that decorated
her royal apartments. This line includes pen-
dant and earrings in white or yellow gold with
translucent or opaque enamel.
Inspired by portholes on transatlantic yachtsForover65years,theMichelHerbelin
workshopsinCharquemont,Franche-
Comténear theSwissborder,have
been designing, manufactur-
ing and selling French-made
watches all over the world. The
Herbelinfamilyarehugefansof
sailing and this has inspired their
creativity for three generations.
A testimony to this passion is
the Newport Yacht Club watch, the
brand’s emblematic timepiece in-
spired by the portholes on transatlantic
yachts which has appeared in many
variations, including Newport
Trophy, Newport Yacht Club,
Odyssée and Newport Yacht
Club Squelette.
Naturally, the Herbelin
family has been involved in
major sailing races and many
sailors wear the brand’s watches.
Michel Herbelin was partner to
the 2014 Route du Rhum race which
leftSaint-MaloinBrittanyon2Novemberfor
Point-à-Pitre in Guadeloupe, with over 90
yachts in the race.
For the occasion, Herbelin revealed the
latest from the emblematic Newport line: the
“NewportYachtClubRégate”.
With an automatic movement, this new
version boasts a steel case, a hand-brushed
white dial and a blue leather strap. The move-
ment has hour, minute, small second, 60-sec-
ond chrono, 30-minute counter and 12-hour
functions, as well as an oscillating weight.
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – JULY 2015
Contact Adri Viviers on 084-261-1805 or [email protected]
MARKETPLACE
28
thePlaceVendômenearthefamedHotelRitz,
thehauntoftherichandpowerful.ThePlace
Vendôme,consideredtheheartofParisanda
highly-prized address for over 3 000 years, as
constructedduringthereignofLouisXIVwas
an expression of grandeur. But the store had
no front or street sign and only a small, discreet
plaque with the engraving “JAR” announced
the locationofhisboutique.Herehe created
jewellery by almost “painting” his pieces with
coloured stones, presenting a very different
ethos.Hisjewellerymarkedthereturntofash-
ion of coloured diamonds.
Little by little, the then fashionable concept
of sparkling white diamonds saw them inter-
spersed with splashes of colour by introducing
emeralds, rubies, sapphires, turquoise, lapis
lazuli and corals – and this became the vogue.
It also became one of the key elements of high
jewellery. Thus the return to colour played a
key role in jewellery design at the time.
JAR’s pieces were one of a kind: the crafts-
manship was superb and his creations were
limited and very expensive. It could take him
as long as a year to complete a single piece.
Heusedmaterials suchasplatinumand tita-
nium, while maintaining his discretion about
hisidentity.Hisclientelehadbroadenedfrom
the initial local Parisians to international
travellers and in 1987, the company
relocated to a larger space next
door to the original shop – the
same one from which it op-
erates today. The team was
expanded to a few excep-
tional craftsmen specialising
in their fields of operation.
The jewels fulfilled an aes-
thetic, rather than a commercial
ambition. But the superior crafts-
manship of JAR’s work, his sculptural crea-
tions incorporating shallow and unusual gem-
stones and his attention to detail singled his
creations out as exceptional.
His clients were the glitterati, the rich and famous – the Rothschilds, Guinesses and Rockefellers. It was said that every fashionable woman aspired to owning a piece of his jewellery. Yet he chose anonymity and used the initials of his name – JAR – to identify his brand. Alice Weil looks at the man who was considered the most gifted creator of the present generation of jewellers.
JOELARTHURROSENTHAL,WHOWASBORN
in 1943 and grew up in the Bronx, New York
City, has been named “the greatest jeweller of
our time”. Growing up in this environment, he
spent much of his early life visiting museums
which stirred in him a passion for beautiful
objects, art and history. He studied those
subjects, as well as philosophy, at Harvard
University, from which he graduated in 1966
andthenmovedtoParis.Thereheembarked
on a series of diverse jobs such as screen-
writer and embroiderer of needlework. It was
in Paris that he met his future companion,
PierreJennet,whowastobethe“otherhalf”
of their enterprise.
With Jennet, Rosenthal spent many of his
earlydays inParisatantique shops,museums,
galleries and auction houses, where he learnt
about antique jewellery, diamonds, pearls and
coloured stones. In 1973 the duo opened a
needlepoint shop in the rue de l’Université,
which for him meant painting mainly flowers
on white canvas and playing with the palette of
colours of the wools. This venture lasted only 11
The meticulous work of JAR
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – JULY 2015
LITTLE GEMS
months, but his work captured the attention of
fashiondesignerssuchasHermèsandValentino.
Hiscareermovedinanotherdirectionwhen
he was asked to design a mount for a stone.
Back in the USA in 1976, he worked for a short
period as a salesman in Bulgari’s New York
store,butreturnedtoParisin1977.Hebegan
making pieces in affordable materials such
as coral and moonstones, explaining that he
wanted to “play with stones”.
Followinghissuccess,heandJennetfound-
ed JAR and, in 1978, opened a salon at No 7 in
JAR’s craftsmanship was superb and his creations were limited and very expensive. It could take him as long as a year to complete a single piece.
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