3
rates and data 2015 SOUTH AFRICAN JEWELLERY NEWS Showstopper unveiled at Jewellex Africa 2014 IIJS showcases India’s best “The Circle of Life” takes local designer to Paris The industry's only trade journal SEPTEMBER 2014 4 SA JEWELLERY NEWS – OCTOBER 2014 c ntents 22. BRAND MANAGEMENT • Ball Watch Co now in SA • Nixon and the S Keren Watch Group join forces • Brand honours motorsport • One of a kind • Bleu becomes Blanc • Seiko spreads its wings 16. PRODUCTS, TOOLS & TECHNOLOGIES This year’s Jewellex Africa saw a number of innovative tools and equipment on display 19. JEWELLERY DESIGN All for a good cause 21. SCENE AROUND Luxco Importers launched Ball Watch Company timepieces in SA at a chic gathering in Johannesburg on 18 August 14. BRAND HISTORY Montegrappa: mightier than the sword The views expressed in this publication are not necessarily those of the owners and the Diamond and Jewellery Federation of South Africa, its members, the publisher or its agents. While every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of its contents, neither the owners and the Diamond and Jewellery Federation of South Africa, the editor nor the publisher can be held responsible for any omissions or errors; or for any misfortune, injury or damages which may arise therefrom. The same applies to all advertising. SA Jewellery News2014. All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or any information storage retrieval system, without prior written permission from the publishers. ISSN 1817-5333. Official Journal of the Diamond and Jewellery Federation of South Africa. Website: www.jewellery.org.za Banking Details: Isikhova Publishing & Communications CC Bank: Standard Bank, Sandton, South Africa Branch Code: 01-92-05 Current Account Number: 4209 6822 9 Founded in 1998 in California, USA, Nixon is the premium watch and accessories brand for the youth lifestyle market. Focused on making the little stuff better, it’s developed into a global success. For more information, contact the S Keren Watch Group on tel: (021) 418-0045. On the cover Editor: Adri Viviers Tel: +27 (0)11 883-4627 Cell: 084-261-1805 E-mail: [email protected] Watch Editor: Alice Weil Tel: +27 (0)11 880-1680 Cell: 083-266-9182 E-mail: [email protected] Advertising Sales: Tanja Jordaan Cell: 083-268-6153 E-mail: [email protected] Advertising Sales Representative (India): Bhupal Potdar Cell: 91-982-115-1035 Email: [email protected] Advertising Sales Representative (Hong Kong): Maud Errera E-mail: [email protected] Senior Designer: Joanne Brook Designer: Chantelle Johnston Copy Editor: Anne Phillips Subscriptions & Accounts: Thuli Majola Tel: +27 (0)11 883-4627 Fax: +27 (0)11 783-2677 E-mail: [email protected] Distribution: Ruth Dlamini and Direct Marketing Solution SA Jewellery Newsis published by: Isikhova Publishing & Communications CC, PO Box 651793, Benmore, 2010, Johannesburg, South Africa. 27 Panners Lane, Riverclub, Sandton, South Africa. Website: www.isikhova.co.za Chief Executive Officer: Andrew Meyer E-mail: [email protected] Chief Financial Officer: Imraan Mahomed E-mail: [email protected] Printing: Colors 7. NEWS • Chris van Rensburg appointed new JCSA Chairman • Petra recovers 232ct diamond at Cullinan • Jacob & Co’s annual timepiece and jewellery exhibition hosted in Monte Carlo • The HKTDC Watch & Clock Fair attracts over 19 000 buyers • DDC to host third edition of Israel Diamond Week in New York • Apple débuts the personal device Apple Watch • World Diamond & Jewellery Forum to be established 28. LITTLE GEMS The colour purple 19 SA JEWELLERY NEWS – OCTOBER 2014 NUNES HAS SPECIALLY CREATED AND HAND- crafted a masterpiece for a charitable cause. As it did last year, his family business, Raffaele D’Amato Jewellers, will again add sparkle to the sixth annual Carpe Diem School Gourmets and Gourmands with a regal necklace befitting an empress – linked perfectly to the event’s theme, “Antiqua Roma”. Nunes has always believed in enhancing the quality of life of those in the local commu- nity, especially the children. Raffaele D’Amato Jewellers subsequently donated a diamond to be auctioned off during Carpe Diem School’s premier fund-raising event in 2013, Gourmets and Gourmands. The sublime pear-shaped diamond, with a total carat weight of approxi- mately 1,06, colour grade G and clarity grade SI3, was auctioned off for R40 000. Nunes then donated a second diamond to be auctioned off at the event. This stone had a total carat weight of approximately 0,56, colour grade K and clar- ity grade SI3. “At Raffaele D’Amato Jewellers, the art of knowing precious stones, eternal and divine, is based on decades of expertise,” ex- plains Nunes. “The designs fuse the elegance of the precious stones used with iconic contem- porary designs.” The auction of these exceptional diamonds was a great boon for the pupils of Carpe Diem School, as the money raised through them was allocated to the development of a therapy room. When Nunes decided to design a necklace to be auctioned off at the 2014 Gourmets and Gourmands, he had no idea that the piece would encompass so much of his team’s crea- tivity and craftsmanship. The timeless and in- imitable design of the necklace is matched with stunning tanzanite and diamonds. Every ounce of the 18ct white gold, excluding the clasp, is handcrafted. The piece is adorned with 1,95ct tanzanite and 1,47ct diamonds. The retail value of the necklace is approximately R95 000. “The inspiration for the design was ampli- fied by the antique Roman theme of the event and, of course, my Italian background,” says Nunes. “It had to be something exquisite, ex- uding Italian flair.” Raffaele D’Amato Jewellers was originally established in 1957 in George by master watch- makers Raffaele D’Amato and his son, Deryck Nunes. D’Amato, who was an Italian prisoner of war, came to SA to make a better life for himself and, later, his family. Nunes opened the first store in Paarl and later joined his par- ents in George. Today the tradition of superb craftsmanship is continued by Michél Nunes, third-generation master jeweller and designer of note. Since the death of his father in 2008, he has been supported in the business by his multi-talented mother, Marlene. Nunes joined the business in 1989 after completing his BA Creative Arts degree in jewellery design at Stellenbosch University, fol- lowed by his FGA in coloured gems and dia- monds from the Gemmological Association of Great Britain, as well as lecturing in jewellery design at Stellenbosch University. In 1990 he won the Elegant Man of the Year design award for his “Elegant Time” brooch and was one of five designers assigned by De Beers to design for the Just for You “Woman With Style” competition. Jewellery design is an ever- changing and expanding art form and Nunes maintains an active interest in current design and gemmology developments. He is a member of the Diamond Dealers’ Club of South Africa. JEWELLERY DESIGN All for a good cause After a visit to Cape Diem School, Michél Nunes, one of SA’s leading jewellery designers and owner of Raffaele D’Amato Jewellers, was excited to see how funds raised for the school make a practical impact on the lives of its special-needs pupils. SAJN is the official magazine of the Diamond & Jewellery Federation of South Africa. Published monthly, it is aimed at all people and companies operating within the jewellery, diamond, gold and precious metals fields. MAGAZINE SPECIFICATIONS Cover Price: R29.95 incl VAT ABC Certified: October - December 2014 Frequency: Monthly Print Run: 1 600 TECHNICAL DATA Page Size: English A4 – Portrait Full Page Trim Area: 297mm x 210mm Full Page Bleed Area: 307mm x 220mm Stock: Cover – 170gms gloss Text 115gms gloss Saddle-stitched DISTRIBUTION SAJN subscriber base, including international subscribers • Diamond and Jewellery Federation of South Africa • Jewellery Council of South Africa • Diamond Council of South Africa • Jewellers’ Association of South Africa • Jewellery Manufacturers Association of South Africa • Diamond Club of SA • AngloGold Ashanti, De Beers, Anglo Platinum, Chamber of Mines • Local Jewellery Fairs: Jewellex, Cape Jewellery Fair • International Jewellery Shows: Vicenza, Basel Fair, India International, Hong Kong, Bangkok, JCK Las Vegas and so forth ADVERTISING RATES (SOUTH AFRICAN RANDS) ADVERT SIZE 1-5 INSERT/S 6-11 INSERT/S 12 INSERT/S FULL PAGE R 10 700.00 R 10 300.00 R 9 700.00 HALF PAGE R 6 150.00 R 5 570.00 R 5 090.00 THIRD PAGE R 4 400.00 R 4 030.00 R 3 660.00 QUARTER PAGE R 3 130.00 R 2 920.00 R 2 650.00

MAgAzine SPeciFicAtionS technicAl DAtA DiStribution SAJN · new JCSA Chairman • Petra recovers 232ct diamond at Cullinan • Jacob & Co’s annual timepiece and jewellery exhibition

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Page 1: MAgAzine SPeciFicAtionS technicAl DAtA DiStribution SAJN · new JCSA Chairman • Petra recovers 232ct diamond at Cullinan • Jacob & Co’s annual timepiece and jewellery exhibition

rates and data 2015

SOUTH AFRICAN JEWELLERY NEWS

Showstopper unveiled at Jewellex Africa 2014

IIJS showcases India’s best

“The Circle of Life” takes local designer to Paris

The industry's only trade journalThe industry's only trade journal

SEPT

EMB

ER 2

014

4 SA JEWELLERY NEWS – OCTOBER 2014

c ntents

22. BRAND MANAGEMENT• Ball Watch Co now in SA

• Nixon and the S Keren Watch Group join forces

• Brand honours motorsport

• One of a kind

• Bleu becomes Blanc

• Seiko spreads its wings

16. PRODUCTS, TOOLS & TECHNOLOGIESThis year’s Jewellex Africa saw a number of innovative tools and equipment on display

19. JEWELLERY DESIGNAll for a good cause

21. SCENE AROUNDLuxco Importers launched Ball Watch Company timepieces in SA at a chic gathering in Johannesburg on 18 August

14. BRAND HISTORYMontegrappa: mightier than the sword

The views expressed in this publication are not necessarily those of the owners and the Diamond and Jewellery Federation of South Africa, its members, the publisher or its agents. While every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of its contents, neither the owners and the Diamond and Jewellery Federation of South Africa, the editor nor the publisher can be held responsible for any omissions or errors; or for any misfortune, injury or damages which may arise therefrom. The same applies to all advertising. SA Jewellery News© 2014. All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or any information storage retrieval system, without prior written permission from the publishers. ISSN 1817-5333.

Offi cial Journal of the Diamond and Jewellery Federation of South Africa. Website: www.jewellery.org.za

Banking Details: Isikhova Publishing & Communications CCBank: Standard Bank, Sandton, South AfricaBranch Code: 01-92-05Current Account Number: 4209 6822 9

Founded in 1998 in California, USA, Nixon is the premium watch and accessories brand

for the youth lifestyle market. Focused on making the little stuff better, it’s developed

into a global success. For more information, contact the S Keren Watch Group on

tel: (021) 418-0045.

On the cover

Editor: Adri Viviers

Tel: +27 (0)11 883-4627 Cell: 084-261-1805

E-mail: [email protected]

Watch Editor: Alice Weil

Tel: +27 (0)11 880-1680 Cell: 083-266-9182

E-mail: [email protected]

Advertising Sales: Tanja Jordaan

Cell: 083-268-6153

E-mail: [email protected]

Advertising Sales Representative (India):

Bhupal Potdar

Cell: 91-982-115-1035

Email: [email protected]

Advertising Sales Representative (Hong Kong):

Maud Errera

E-mail: [email protected]

Senior Designer: Joanne Brook

Designer: Chantelle Johnston

Copy Editor: Anne Phillips

Subscriptions & Accounts: Thuli Majola

Tel: +27 (0)11 883-4627 Fax: +27 (0)11 783-2677

E-mail: [email protected]

Distribution: Ruth Dlamini and

Direct Marketing Solution

SA Jewellery News is published by:

Isikhova Publishing & Communications CC,

PO Box 651793, Benmore, 2010,

Johannesburg, South Africa.

27 Panners Lane, Riverclub, Sandton, South Africa.

Website: www.isikhova.co.za

Chief Executive Offi cer: Andrew Meyer

E-mail: [email protected]

Chief Financial Offi cer: Imraan Mahomed

E-mail: [email protected]

Printing: Colors

7. NEWS• Chris van Rensburg appointed new JCSA Chairman

• Petra recovers 232ct diamond at Cullinan

• Jacob & Co’s annual timepiece and jewellery exhibition hosted in Monte Carlo

• The HKTDC Watch & Clock Fair attracts over 19 000 buyers

• DDC to host third edition of Israel Diamond Week in New York

• Apple débuts the personal device Apple Watch

• World Diamond & Jewellery Forum to be established

28. LITTLE GEMSThe colour purple

19SA JEWELLERY NEWS – OCTOBER 2014

NUNES HAS SPECIALLY CREATED AND HAND-

crafted a masterpiece for a charitable cause.

As it did last year, his family business, Raffaele

D’Amato Jewellers, will again add sparkle to

the sixth annual Carpe Diem School Gourmets

and Gourmands with a regal necklace befi tting

an empress – linked perfectly to the event’s

theme, “Antiqua Roma”.

Nunes has always believed in enhancing

the quality of life of those in the local commu-

nity, especially the children. Raffaele D’Amato

Jewellers subsequently donated a diamond to

be auctioned off during Carpe Diem School’s

premier fund-raising event in 2013, Gourmets

and Gourmands. The sublime pear-shaped

diamond, with a total carat weight of approxi-

mately 1,06, colour grade G and clarity grade

SI3, was auctioned off for R40 000. Nunes then

donated a second diamond to be auctioned off

at the event. This stone had a total carat weight

of approximately 0,56, colour grade K and clar-

ity grade SI3. “At Raffaele D’Amato Jewellers,

the art of knowing precious stones, eternal and

divine, is based on decades of expertise,” ex-

plains Nunes. “The designs fuse the elegance

of the precious stones used with iconic contem-

porary designs.”

The auction of these exceptional diamonds

was a great boon for the pupils of Carpe

Diem School, as the money raised through

them was allocated to the development of a

therapy room.

When Nunes decided to design a necklace

to be auctioned off at the 2014 Gourmets and

Gourmands, he had no idea that the piece

would encompass so much of his team’s crea-

tivity and craftsmanship. The timeless and in-

imitable design of the necklace is matched with

stunning tanzanite and diamonds. Every ounce

of the 18ct white gold, excluding the clasp, is

handcrafted. The piece is adorned with 1,95ct

tanzanite and 1,47ct diamonds. The retail value

of the necklace is approximately R95 000.

“The inspiration for the design was ampli-

fi ed by the antique Roman theme of the event

and, of course, my Italian background,” says

Nunes. “It had to be something exquisite, ex-

uding Italian fl air.”

Raffaele D’Amato Jewellers was originally

established in 1957 in George by master watch-

makers Raffaele D’Amato and his son, Deryck

Nunes. D’Amato, who was an Italian prisoner

of war, came to SA to make a better life for

himself and, later, his family. Nunes opened

the fi rst store in Paarl and later joined his par-

ents in George. Today the tradition of superb

craftsmanship is continued by Michél Nunes,

third-generation master jeweller and designer

of note. Since the death of his father in 2008,

he has been supported in the business by his

multi-talented mother, Marlene.

Nunes joined the business in 1989 after

completing his BA Creative Arts degree in

jewellery design at Stellenbosch University, fol-

lowed by his FGA in coloured gems and dia-

monds from the Gemmological Association of

Great Britain, as well as lecturing in jewellery

design at Stellenbosch University.

In 1990 he won the Elegant Man of the Year

design award for his “Elegant Time” brooch and

was one of fi ve designers assigned by De Beers

to design for the Just for You “Woman With

Style” competition. Jewellery design is an ever-

changing and expanding art form and Nunes

maintains an active interest in current design

and gemmology developments. He is a member

of the Diamond Dealers’ Club of South Africa.

JEWELLERY DESIGN

All for a good causeAfter a visit to Cape Diem School, Michél Nunes, one of SA’s leading jewellery designers and owner of Raffaele D’Amato Jewellers, was excited to see how funds raised for the school make a practical impact on the lives of its special-needs pupils.

SAJN is the official magazine of the Diamond & Jewellery Federation of South Africa. Published monthly, it is aimed at all people and companies operating within the jewellery, diamond, gold and precious metals fields.

MAgAzine SPeciFicAtionS

Cover Price: R29.95 incl VAT

ABC Certified: October - December 2014

Frequency: Monthly

Print Run: 1 600

technicAl DAtA

Page Size: English A4 – Portrait

Full Page Trim Area: 297mm x 210mm

Full Page Bleed Area: 307mm x 220mm

Stock: Cover – 170gms gloss

Text – 115gms gloss

Saddle-stitched

DiStribution

• SAJN subscriber base, including international subscribers

• DiamondandJewelleryFederationofSouthAfrica

• JewelleryCouncilofSouthAfrica

• DiamondCouncilofSouthAfrica

• Jewellers’AssociationofSouthAfrica

• JewelleryManufacturersAssociationofSouthAfrica

• DiamondClubofSA

• AngloGoldAshanti,DeBeers,AngloPlatinum,Chamber

ofMines

• LocalJewelleryFairs:Jewellex,CapeJewelleryFair

• InternationalJewelleryShows:Vicenza,BaselFair,India

International,HongKong,Bangkok,JCKLasVegasand

soforth

ADvertiSing rAteS (South AFricAn rAnDS)

ADVERT SIZE 1-5 INSERT/S 6-11 INSERT/S 12 INSERT/S

FULLPAGE R10700.00 R10300.00 R9700.00

HALFPAGE R6150.00 R5570.00 R5090.00

THIRDPAGE R4400.00 R4030.00 R3660.00

QUARTERPAGE R3130.00 R2920.00 R2650.00

Page 2: MAgAzine SPeciFicAtionS technicAl DAtA DiStribution SAJN · new JCSA Chairman • Petra recovers 232ct diamond at Cullinan • Jacob & Co’s annual timepiece and jewellery exhibition

ADvertiSing rAteS (South AFricAn rAnDS) cont..

MARKETPLACE

89mm x 60mm R 1 280.00

89mm x 29mm R 625.00

42mm x 60mm R 625.00

196mm x 138mm R 4 930.00

89mm x 126mm R 2 650.00

104mm x 297mm R 4 930.00

COVER R 21 000.00

GATEFOLD R32000.00(3pages)

OUTSIDEBACKCOVER R15900.00

INSIDEFRONTCOVER R12830.00

INSIDEBACKCOVER R12190.00

DOUBLEPAGESPREAD R19500.00

INSERTS R3400.00(standardsize)

ADvertiSing rAteS (internAtionAl/uS DollArS)

ADvert Size 1-5 inSert/S 6-11 inSert/S 12 inSert/S

FULLPAGE $1540.00 $1485.00 $1435.00

HALFPAGE $900.00 $830.00 $745.00

THIRDPAGE $660.00 $605.00 $555.00

QUARTERPAGE $480.00 $440.00 $415.00

COVER $3180.00

GATEFOLD $4620.00(3pages)

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INSIDEFRONTCOVER $1965.00

INSIDEBACKCOVER $1855.00

DOUBLEPAGESPREAD $2810.00

INSERTS $520.00(standardsize)

Dominant in the industry for more than 75 years, SAJN brings readers exciting and current international and local industry-related news. From jewellery shows and expos, trends in manufacturing, diamond cutting and polishing development to precious stones and metals, collecting masterpieces, jewellery design, training and development and much, much more.

17SA JEWELLERY NEWS – SEPTEMBER 2014

SANDRA NDLOVU OF SIVANA DIAMONDS

designed the winning Showstopper of Jew-

ellex Africa 2014: a ring which she calls the

“Cornus Flower”. This 18ct white gold ring is

set with a semi-cut diamond in the centre, sur-

rounded by small, white brilliant cut diamonds.

Her inspiration was drawn from the dog-

wood tree in bloom, with its captivating, deli-

cate white cornus fl owers. Its brightness and

purity, she believed, could only be represented

by a diamond.

JEWELLERY DESIGN

Showstopper unveiled at Jewellex Africa 2014 All exhibitors at this year’s event were encouraged to submit a locally manufactured showstopper piece which was featured on the Jewellex Pinterest and Facebook pages.

The piece was unveiled at the De Beers

Jewellex Cocktail and Showstopper event

which took place on the fi rst evening of

the exhibition, 2 August, at the Rivonia

Holiday Inn in Sandton, Johannesburg.

The four other fi nalists were

Nontando Molefe and Natasha

Hahne, both of Design @ 50

Commercial Jewellery De-

sign Project, Khanyisile Kho-

za of K2 Design Studio and

Jo-Anne Twala from House

of Egoli.

Molefe designed a peacock

pendant featuring sterling silver and

various gemstones which all have claw set-

tings. The piece hangs on four sterling silver

belcher chains. While her inspiration came

from the colours of a peacock’s tail feathers

when it displays them (usually when seeking

a mate or showing aggression), her design

features the bird’s posture when it’s at peace

and its tail is closed.

Khoza designed a neckpiece featuring cir-

cles revolving around the theme “20 Years of

Democracy”. The piece is made from silver and

white silk cord and was inspired by her love of

using vintage items in new designs.

Inspired by SA’s national fl ower, Hahne de-

signed protea earrings. The top layers are plat-

ed in rose gold, the middle layer in yellow gold

and the bottom layer in rhodium, resembling

white gold.

Twala designed a necklace inspired by a

water lily. Made of copper metal, it features six

layers of metal coins strung together. Mimick-

ing the graceful fl ower it represents, the piece

drapes across the wearer’s collarbone, creating

a dramatic effect.

(Above): Khanyisile Khoza from K2 Design Studio’s neckpiece inspired by circles of love, revolving around the theme “20 Years of Democracy“.

(Above): Natasha Hahne from Design @ 50 Commercial Jewellery Design Project’s Protea earrings.

(Above): Jo-Anne Twala from House of Egoli’s necklace which she calls the “Lily Necklace”.

(Above): Sandra Ndlovu from Sivana Diamonds designed the Showstopper of Jewellex Africa 2014 winning piece, a ring she calls the “Cornus Flower”.

(Above): Nontando Molefe from Design @ 50 Commercial Jewellery Design Project’s peacock pendant.

18 SA JEWELLERY NEWS – SEPTEMBER 2014

JEWELLEX AFRICA IS A MARKETING OPPOR-

tunity. Yes, times are indeed tough – but the

jewellery trade has to accept this and fi nd

ways around the economic downturn.

Gone are the days when competition to

present the most elaborate stand was rife. But

small doesn’t necessarily mean less effective,

as demonstrated by Bell & Ross’ timepiece

presentation at Montres du Monde, which

won the Best Stand of the Year Award. It por-

trayed the company’s image, was open and

inviting and the product display accessible.

One of the companies which has adapted

to the situation is Sid Forman, whose design

and manufacturing facilities have long been

renowned for their individuality. While it

still caters for private clients, the company

has a three-fold plant to suit the present

circumstances. “We’ve divided our

production into different segments.

As opposed to requiring a person

with years of experience in design,

models are CAD-prepared by a

young student. In some respects,

this has created a situation of self-

employment,” says director David

Forman. The company has created

a range of wedding bands for which

it’s provided labour and a contribution

towards expenses.

OroAfrica’s Gary Nathan reports that the

company fared well on “specials”, but says

he believes retailers who attended the show

were “bargain-hunting”. It’s launched a new

collection named “Persona” which is available

in gold or silver and incorporates the initials of

the purchaser, presented on a chain as a pen-

dant. Most popular is a rose gold version

– which is actually a monogram – and

can be supplied within a week of or-

dering. It’s seeking retail stockists

for this product and is planning on

expanding into the UK and other

countries, as well as offering the

option of online shopping.

Despite the challenging

times – or perhaps because

of them – there was ample

choice of new products.

A fascinating jewellery

item named Engelsrufer (“a

call to the angels”) – referring

to an ancient Germanic myth

that guardian angels can be sum-

moned to assist those in times of

peril or distress – includes a charm

which can be attached to a wrist chain

or worn as a pendant. Each charm, of

which there’s an extensive number to

choose from, incorporates a sound ball

within a basket which emits a delicate tinkle,

almost like a whisper, when the wearer moves.

JEWELLEX AFRICA 2014

Adapting to the marketIt must be said that Jewellex Africa 2014 was smaller than in previous years. However, a marketing guru once declared that when times are tough, that’s when you should advertise – and for Jewellex, that means showing the fl ag.

to the situation is Sid Forman, whose design

and manufacturing facilities have long been

renowned for their individuality. While it

still caters for private clients, the company

has a three-fold plant to suit the present

circumstances. “We’ve divided our

production into different segments.

As opposed to requiring a person

with years of experience in design,

models are CAD-prepared by a

young student. In some respects,

employment,” says director David

Forman. The company has created

a range of wedding bands for which

it’s provided labour and a contribution

– which is actually a monogram – and

can be supplied within a week of or-

dering. It’s seeking retail stockists

for this product and is planning on

expanding into the UK and other

countries, as well as offering the

option of online shopping.

times – or perhaps because

item named Engelsrufer (“a

call to the angels”) – referring

to an ancient Germanic myth

that guardian angels can be sum-

moned to assist those in times of

peril or distress – includes a charm

which can be attached to a wrist chain

or worn as a pendant. Each charm, of

(Top, left): Bell & Ross’ stand, which was named “Stand of the Year".

(Left): Sue Taljaard and Adri Viviers correctly guessed the weight of the gold container at the Metal Concentrators stand.

(Right): Made in SA and representing a specifi c lifestyle is new brand Sissy Boy.

19SA JEWELLERY NEWS – SEPTEMBER 2014

Luxco Importers’ Dia-

mond Jewellery Division,

which was established four

years ago, introduced three

new products, says its Gen-

eral Manager Reuven Gralnik.

These included the range of

2014/5 bridal diamond rings, featuring new

styles of classic designs, the Dancing Diamonds

collection (in which the diamond is suspended

from two points, allowing it to swing freely and

creating a sparkling effect) and the Lace Collec-

tion, which has sold 14 million pieces worldwide.

For the third time Vera B exhibited suc-

cessfully at Jewellex and plans to return next

year, reports the owner of these wholesale

jewellers, Vera Brown. First-timers were well-

known writing instruments Parker pens and

Watermans, named after the originators of

the self-fi lling mechanism used in fountain

pens thereafter.

Regular exhibitor Hirsch released its new

Performance Collection of watch bracelets

which represent a marriage of appearance and

technology. The timepieces combine traditional

leather craftsmanship and cutting-edge brace-

let technology, with the Hirsch Premium Caou-

tchou’s special geometry featuring a superior

grooved structure which ensures constant ven-

tilation for the wrist. These sturdy bracelets of-

fer a high level of comfort, while the combina-

tion of different types of leather and colours

imposes virtually no limits on surface fi nish and

design preferences. The product has a

lifespan of 2,5 years and, because of

its soft and elastic material com-

bination, is suitable for people

with sensitive skin.

A group of 15 promising

jewellers were sponsored by the

Department of Trade & Industry

and occupied an entire section of the back

row of stands. This was organised under the

Emerging Exporters Scheme. Exhibitor Jo-

Anne Twala of the House of Egoli Internation-

al, under the brand name Egoli Life, featured

authentic South African designs which won it

second place in the Showstopper competition.

Its jewellery label, Nolufele Creations, incorpo-

rates traditional elements with a cosmopolitan

look and feel, using metal and glass beads.

CJR Gift Sales, which now markets seven

brands – each of which was independently dis-

played – introduced two new watch brands,

Daniel Klein and Sissy Boy. The latter is very

much a lifestyle statement brand designed to

enhance every look of the wearer’s wardrobe.

It has a distinctive DNA using distinctive mate-

rials. To complete the overall effect, the pack-

aging and window display are instigated by

the maker of the brand’s jeanswear. Interest-

ingly, Sissy Boy is a South African brand manu-

factured by local factories and will be available

in stores here this month. The models’ prices

range from R995-R2 595 and are designed in

the UK. Included is a ladies’ range.

An exceptional watch, inspired by the his-

tory of aviation and the evolution of the pock-

et watch, was launched by Swiss brand Bell &

Ross. Named WWI (“Wrist Watch 1”), it is a

tribute to the fi rst wrist watch worn by pilots

in the 1920s. Its large case features a new sil-

ver alloy which is brighter and more resistant,

with an alternative version in pink gold. This

elegant timepiece is mounted on a leather

strap, as was the fi rst pilot’s watch. The brand

retails from R38 000-R100 000.

Since its inception in 1990, Metal Concen-

trators (MetCon) has been highly regarded

for its integrity in the fi eld of precious metal

refi ning. This excellence has now received of-

fi cial recognition from the global Responsible

Jewellery Council, making MetCon

the fi rst company in SA and the

ninth worldwide to achieve this

honour. The brand held a compe-

tition at the show for entrants to

estimate the weight in grams of the

gold in a cylindrical container. The R1 000

prize was won by SA Jewellery News’ Edi-

tor, Adri Viviers and Sue Taljaard from Tech-

nogold. The container with gold, weighing

17,719 kg, was the most expensive item ever

to be displayed at Jewellex and was trans-

ported to and from the venue each day in an

armed truck.

Lorna Lloyd, CEO of the Jewellery Council

of SA, which organised the show, says: “I’m

extremely proud of the success of Jewellex

Africa 2014, given the poor state of the jew-

ellery industry at present. The show looked

beautiful and even though it was smaller,

there was still a great atmosphere. All the ex-

hibitors to whom I’ve spoken made positive

comments about the business they wrote up.

One of them reports having done the best

trade it’s had for eight years.

“All the exhibitors believe it’s important to

get Jewellex back to where it was in the days

when the halls were full and business was

buzzing. We’re planning a brainstorming ses-

sion at the end of the month to discuss future

ways of attracting retailers to the event.”

JEWELLEX AFRICA 2014

Adapting to the market

Despite the challenging times – or perhaps because of them – there was ample choice of new products.

(Above, right): In the Engelsrufer, a sound ball within the case emits a whisper summoning an angel.

(Right): Bell & Ross’ newest timepiece, WW1 (“Wrist Watch 1”), was inspired by the fi rst pilot’s watch of the 1920s.

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SOTHEBY’S BELIEVES THIS IS THE MOST

eceptional diamond of this colour to appear

on auction in recent years and ranks among

the most durable gems ever seen on the block.

The stone was cut from a 19,54ct rough

which was mined by De Beers, with the fi nal

cutting completed in New York. Vibrant and

concentrated in colour, it is expected to com-

mand the highest price per carat for a pink-

coloured diamond. It has been graded by the

GIA as “fancy vivid”, the highest grade for a

coloured stone.

Ever since the fi rst discovery of pink dia-

monds in Indian mines centuries ago, these

coloured gems have been coveted by rulers

and prized by connoisseurs. The rich deposits

of famed Golconda mines yielded the Darya-

i-Noor, a shimmering, pale pink diamond of

approximately 185ct which was table-cut,

its pavilion consisting of large step-facets. Its

present location is uncertain. Many believe

it to be in a vault of Sonali Bank in Dhaka,

Bangladesh, while others say it can be found

among the Iranian Crown Jewels in Tehran.

But not many ordinary mortals can aspire to

owning a gem of the calibre being auctioned.

So the next best thing in purple would be an

amethyst, a gemstone that has been revered

through the ages.

It was discovered in the

19th century and is located

in geode rocks, the most

signifi cant deposits be-

ing in South America

(Brazil and Uruguay),

with the third most sig-

nifi cant supply in Madagascar.

The Brazilian treasure trove yielded a piece

weighing 200 g which is on display in the

Washington Museum.

Amethyst is a sensitive purple colour – an

“extravagance in violet of the quartz fam-

ily” would be a good description – but it

can change colour if treated, according to

popular belief. For years it has been coveted

by royalty and ecclesiastics. It was known as

the stone of cardinals and often used in bish-

ops’ rings, while Russian empress Catherine

the Great was said to have sent thousands

of miners to look for amethysts in the Urals,

where it was mined.

Some amethysts pale almost to colour-

lessness in daylight. The reason for this is not

yet known, but radium radiation can return

them to their original colour. This can happen

if the stones are exposed to certain lights or

sudden changes of temperature. Other gem-

stones in varying hues

of purple include sap-

phire, spinel, tanzan-

ite and tourmaline.

The colour range in-

cludes violet, heliotrope, lavender, magenta,

mauve, mulberry or even a reddish-purple –

and in the case of our diamond, pink. It is a

colour best set in platinum or silver.

In the traditional meaning of colours,

purple is related to imagination and spiritual-

ity. It symbolises power, nobility, leadership

and ambition. A survey has revealed that

75% of pre-adolescent children prefer pur-

ple to any other colour – and

that includes my youngest

great-grand-daughter

Gabriella, aged four. In

terms of personality, if

you have a preference

for purple or violet, it is

thought to mean that you

are sensitive, compassionate, understanding

and supportive of others. You are a free spirit

(like Gabriella) who dislikes being part of a

crowd and doesn’t like to copy others – or

have others copy you.

In ancient times, a dye obtained from the

mucous secretions of certain predatory sea

snails was named royal purple, Tyrian purple

or even Tyrian red. It was reddish-purple and

came in various shades, did not fade eas-

ily as a result of weathering or sunlight and

was prized by the Romans as an item of luxury

trade. A similar species of sea snail is found to-

day on the Mediterranean and Atlantic coasts

of Europe and Africa.

To conclude on a whimsical note, in 1905,

the poet Gelett Burgess wrote the following

clerihew about the colour purple:

“I never saw a purple cow.

I never hope to see one;

But I can tell you anyhow

I’d rather see than be one.”

Purple is a colour of many light and dark shades, most strikingly in the quartz family – but it is not usually associated with diamonds. Yet an internally fl awless, vivid purple-pink, pear-shaped gem of 8,41ct will appear on auction in Hong Kong this month, worth an estimated US$12,8-$15,4 million. Alice Weil explores the myths and fascination of this colour.

The colour purple

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – OCTOBER 2014

LITTLE GEMS

Imag

e co

urte

sy S

othe

by’s

22 SA JEWELLERY NEWS – NOVEMBER 2014

BRAND MANAGEMENT

Local jewellery designer Jenny

Miller and her husband Mike

started a jewellery manufactur-

ing business in the 1980s, supplying

top retail stores across SA under their own

label. A decade later, brand awareness was on

the rise and in a market saturated with mass-

produced items, there was a need for an ethical-

ly made, vibrant and fashion-forward

jewellery brand. Thus Miglio was born.

Miglio recently announced the

launch of its new Lily Rose collection.

Inspiration for the collection came

from the invitation to design couture

Swarovski crystal jewellery to be

showcased at the Swarovski World Jew-

ellery Facets exhibition. The exhibition start-

ed in Las Vegas in June, then moved to

Beijing, Shanghai, Hong Kong, Seoul,

Tokyo and Paris.

The collection’s appealingly mul-

ti-functional jewellery will soon be

found gracing both local and interna-

tional high-end retail stores.

The pieces include a couture necklace

featuring cushion-cut denim blue Swarovski

crystals and burnished silver ethereal accents,

fi nished with lobster clasp fastening, as well

as a versatile Lily Rose belcher chain necklace

(also with denim blue Swarovski crys-

tals). This can be worn long or short

and is fi nished with a T-bar and fob

closure. It features a burnished sil-

ver heart pendant encrusted with a

cushion-cut denim blue Swarovski

crystal centre. Jenny Miller chose

the denim blue crystals as they re-

minded her of the Atlantic lapping

the shores of the Cape.

Also part of the collection is a bracelet in bur-

nished silver featuring denim blue Swarovski crys-

tal beads, charms and twist-and-turn elements. It

is also fi nished with a T-bar and fob closure.

Despite being known for its pared-down

presentations, Rado’s DiaMaster has

made an exception for the coming festive

season by releasing his and hers models

in its latest high-tech collection.

For him, the Rado DiaMaster

Skeleton collection is an eye-catch-

ing timepiece with ceramic compo-

nents. A metallic shine begins its life

as white. However, placed on a plasma

oven where gases activate at 20 000

ºC, the ceramics reach a temperature of

900 ºC and the colour changes to a unique

warm grey metallic shine. This colour will

not fade over time and will retain its

high-tech glow.

The skeleton dial adds depth

to this masculine model, in which

the automatic mechanical

movement lies beneath

the cut-out dial. This is

a limited edition of 499

numbered pieces.

The ladies’ model is set in

a high-tech ceramic case and

has a luminous mother-of-pearl

dial. At its centre are 36 gleaming

diamonds set in a circle. Light and

scratch-resistant, it is the perfect time-

piece to wear to the offi ce, while running

errands or attending family celebrations.

This glamorous, ultra-feminine mod-

el has a case of minimalistic design

which gives priority to the dial itself.

Both models have a fi ve-link,

high-tech ceramic bracelet which is

adaptable to any wrist size for ultimate

wearer comfort. This is made possible

because of the complex construction of

100 components per bracelet, which take

up to an hour to assemble and are a distinct

feature of the Rado DiaMaster collection.

Renowned fashion jeweller announces new Lily Rose collection

Ceramic plays a starring role in the newest collec-

tion from Saint Honore’s “Lady Ceramic” models.

This sensual material with a soft feel and silky ap-

pearance is nevertheless scratch-resistant.

The Swiss-made brand, which is known for

its “Paris style”, has launched the Worldcode

Lady Ceramic model in a white or black version.

It is a fascinating combination of details with a

feminine appeal which is chic and elegant. In a

35 mm case, it has a crown set with black onyx.

The stainless steel bezel has a rose gold PVD fi n-

ish, while the sleek dial is black (or white) moth-

er-of-pearl with elegantly designed Roman nu-

merals and is set with 11 diamonds. The bracelet

has silvery steel or rose gold vertical inserts; the

movement is quartz and water-resistant to 30 m.

Saint Honore’s elegant style, unique char-

acter and watchmaking experience have at-

tracted lovers of contemporary creations the

world over. The brand combines craftsman-

ship with a strong emphasis on innovation,

its leading collections being Opera, Orsay,

Colosea and Haussman. The brand has an in-

tense allure at an exceptional price. It recently

celebrated its 12th anniversary and is repre-

sented in more than 60 countries.

Ceramic to the fore

New high-tech collection

23SA JEWELLERY NEWS – NOVEMBER 2014

BRAND MANAGEMENT

Upcoming Danish watch and jewellery brand,

Bering, has created an innovative ring collection

entitled the Arctic Symphony Collection. The

“twist and change” system allows you to devel-

op your own ring, according to your individual

taste and it is extremely easy to create.

By simply twisting the decorative elements

into each other, the ring is pieced together to

design your own unique look. Materials used

are high-tech ceramic, Swarovski ele-

ments, stainless steel and mesh. As your

collection grows, you can customise

the look of your personal rings using

the wide range of these elements

for a variety of designs – for exam-

ple, you can combine a wide outer

ring with a wide inner one, or fi ll it with two

narrow inner rings.

Whatever combination you decide on, the

result is bound to be dazzling, thanks to the

unique beauty and pure elements of the

Arctic Collection.

This interesting concept is sure

to be popular as the festive gift-

ing season approaches. Stocks

are already available in SA.

An exciting new concept

“Diane Kruger is the feminine face of Jae-

ger-LeCoultre and the perfect embodiment

of a Jaeger-LeCoultre woman,” the brand

recently stated. “In her, we’ve found our

muse and inspiration.”

The face and fi gure of this ballet dancer,

fashion model and actress are known around

the world. Countless fashion photos appear-

ing in various magazines have enabled read-

ers to appreciate her beauty and around 30

fi lms have revealed her talent and made her

a global icon.

“Both in real life and in front of the camera,

Kruger expresses her free-spirited approach to

life. Each of her appearances attracts atten-

tion and onlookers never fail to appreciate her

choices, particularly in terms of aesthetics and

fashion,” says the brand.

For four years now, Jaeger-LeCoultre has

enjoyed the thrill of seeing its watches worn

by the star on red carpets around the world,

including that of the famous Venice Interna-

tional Film Festival. In addition to her role as

inspirational muse, Kruger’s also become a

brand ambassador.

From the renowned “Joaillerie 101” to the

most recent launches, a wide variety of Reverso

watches have graced her wrist.

Diane Kruger becomes Jaeger-LeCoultre ambassador

Epitomising the inimitable Aquanautic design, the Tonneau watch returns in a new and more stylish than ever variation. Its laser-sculpted dial features four luminescent Arabic numerals, while the day and date appear through openings between four and fi ve o’clock.

The iconic propeller-shaped sweep-seconds hand serves as a reminder of the brand’s maritime origins. The powerful lines of the case are topped by a bezel that is interchangeable like the strap and gives the watch a variety of faces, while the sporty crown is protected by an ingenious patented safety clasp inspired by submarine hatches.

The King Tonneau 3H features a mechanical automatic movement with a 38-hour power reserve. Its 47 mm case is of steel and titanium with black PVD treatment and is water-resistant to 50 m.

The Swiss brand Aquanautic was launched in mid 2002 by four experts from various watch making horizons. All are inspired by water, explaining the brands’ name and their choice

of settling the show room in the historic clock tower of the famous Place du Molard.

Situated in the centre of Geneva next to the lake, between the elegant rue du Rhône and

the busy rue du Marché, this monument is a strategic land mark for Aquanau-tic since it’s history begins with wa-

ter and time giving. As of the 14th century the clock tower was part of

the lower city enclosure protecting the port and Place du Molard

with countless boats drawing up alongside it fl ooding the central square with the fl ow

of their cargo. It became the harbour offi ce which dealt with all

the merchant ships sailing on the Rhône and it's famous clock indicat-

ed the time. Regular visits from many watchmakers were required to keep it in working order. One of them, Nicolas

Besse, was granted the bourgeoisie of Geneva. Aquanautic watches are already famous around the world combining aesthetic and technologi-cal characteristics.

Introducing the King Tonneau 3H

The delightfully feminine Reference 828 from Bedat & Co is both fascinating and seductive with its delicate curves and its iconic crown guard sparkling with gems to echo the diamond-set bezel. Large Roman numerals stand out against the dial, while the Bedat & Co Geneve logo appears at 8 o’clock proclaiming its origin and its kinship with the ultimate lucky number. It has a mechanical automatic movement and a 42-hour power reserve.

Although a b2b (business to business) title, SAJN reflects an upmarket, modern consumer look and feel. SAJN really does make it possible for you to reach key people and decision makers within this industry across a broad range of related business!

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