Routine maintenance and servicing · Maintenance schedule 1•3 1 Every 250 miles (400 km) or weekly m Refer to “Weekly Checks” Every 3000 miles (5000 km) or 3 months, whichever

1

Chapter 1Routine maintenance and servicing

Air cleaner element renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30Air pump drivebelt check and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9Bodywork, paint and exterior trim check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28Brake fluid renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36Carburettor idle speed and mixture adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26Clutch hydraulic check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10Clutch return stop adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22Contact breaker points check and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20Control box cleaning and inspection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24Coolant renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35Distributor cap, rotor arm and HT lead check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32Distributor lubrication . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21Door, boot and bonnet check and lubrication . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27Driveshaft gaiter check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15Drum brake adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3Dynamo check and lubrication . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23Emission control equipment check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34Engine/transmission oil and filter renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13Exhaust system check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7

Fan belt check and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8Front brake wear check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14Fuel filter renewal (fuel injection models) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37Fuel system components, checks and lubrication . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19Handbrake check and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4Headlight beam alignment check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12Ignition timing check and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25Intensive maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2Introduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1Rear brake wear check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17Road test . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29Seats and seat belt check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11Spark plug renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33Steering and suspension check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5Steering and suspension lubrication . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16Underbody and fuel/brake line check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6Underbonnet check for fluid leaks and hose condition . . . . . . . . . . . 18Valve clearance adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31

1•1

Contents

Easy, suitable fornovice with littleexperience

Fairly easy, suitablefor beginner withsome experience

Fairly difficult,suitable for competentDIY mechanic

Difficult, suitable forexperienced DIYmechanic

Very difficult,suitable for expert DIYor professional

Degrees of difficulty

54321

1•2 Servicing specificationsLubricants and fluids . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Refer to end of “Weekly Checks”

CapacitiesEngine oil with filter changeManual transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.8 litresAutomatic transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.0 litresEngine oil without filter change (approximate)Manual transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.2 litresAutomatic transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.4 litresCooling system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.5 litresFuel tankSaloon and Clubman (approximate):

Early models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 litresLater models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33 litres

Estate, Van and Pick-up . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27 litres1275 GT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33 litresCooper S Mk III . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 litres

EngineOil filter type:

Pre-1973 models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion X101 (cartridge type)1974-on models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion C103 (canister type)

Cooling systemFan belt adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13.0 mm deflection of belt between crankshaft and dynamo/alternator

pulleysSpecified antifreeze mixture . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30% antifreeze/70% waterNote: Refer to Chapter 3 for further details.

Fuel system - carburettor modelsAir cleaner element type:

Pre-1973 models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion W1311974-on models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion W125 1990-on 1275 cc models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion W250

Fuel system - fuel injection modelsAir cleaner element type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion type not availableFuel filter type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion type not available

Exhaust and emission control systemsAir pump drivebelt adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13.0 mm deflection of belt between pulleys

Ignition systemSpark plugs:*

Type:All models up to 1987 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion RN9YCC or RN9YC998 cc engine models, 1987 to 1989 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion N12YCC or N12YC998 cc engine models (1989-on) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion RN12YCC or RN12YC1275 cc engine models (1990-on) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion RN9YCC or RN9YC

Electrode gap:All Champion plug types except RN9YC and N12YC . . . . . . . . . . 0.8 mmChampion RN9YC and N12YC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.6 mm

HT leads . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion LS-02, boxed set*Spark plug types and electrode gaps are as recommended by Champion Spark Plug. If alternative plugs are used, refer to their manufacturer’srecommendations.

ClutchClutch return stop clearance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.50 mm

BrakesMinimum brake shoe lining thickness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.0 mmMinimum brake pad thickness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.0 mmHandbrake lever travel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 clicks of ratchet

TyresTyre pressures . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See “Weekly checks”

Torque wrench settings Nm lbf ftEngine/transmission oil drain plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35 25Spark plugs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18Roadwheel nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 63 45

Maintenance schedule 1•3

1

Every 250 miles (400 km) or weeklymm Refer to “Weekly Checks”

Every 3000 miles (5000 km) or 3 months, whichever comes firstIn addition to the items listed above, carry out the following:mm Adjust the front and rear drum brakes (Section 3)mm Check the operation of the handbrake and adjust if

necessary (Section 4)mm Check the condition and security of the steering

and suspension components (Section 5)mm Inspect the underbody and the brake hydraulic

pipes and hoses (Section 6)mm Check the condition of the fuel lines (Section 6)mm Check the condition and security of the exhaust

system (Section 7)mm Check the condition of the fan belt and renew if

necessary (Section 8)mm Check the condition of the air pump drivebelt

(where applicable) and renew if necessary (Section 9)

mm Inspect the clutch hydraulic components (Section 10)

mm Check the condition of the seats and seat belts(Section 11)

mm Check the headlight beam alignment (Section 12)

Every 6000 miles (10 000 km) or 6 months, whichever comes firstIn addition to the items listed above, carry out the following:mm Renew the engine/transmission oil and filter

(Section 13)mm Check the condition of the front brake shoes and/or

pads, and renew if necessary (Section 14)mm Check the condition of the driveshaft gaiters

(Section 15)mm Lubricate the suspension and steering grease

points (Section 16)mm Check the condition of the rear brake shoes and

renew if necessary (Section 17)mm Check all underbonnet components and hoses for

fluid leaks (Section 18)mm Check and if necessary top up the carburettor

piston dashpot and lubricate the linkage (Section 19)

Every 6000 miles (10 000 km) or 6 months, whichever comes first(continued)mm Check the condition of the contact breaker points

and adjust or renew (Section 20)mm Lubricate the distributor (Section 21)mm Check and if necessary adjust the clutch return

stop (Section 22)mm Lubricate the dynamo bearing - early models

(Section 23)mm Clean and inspect the dynamo charging system

control box (Section 24)mm Check and if necessary adjust the ignition timing

(Section 25)mm Check and if necessary adjust the carburettor idle

speed and mixture settings (Section 26)mm Lubricate the locks and hinges (Section 27)mm Check the condition of the exterior trim and

paintwork (Section 28)mm Road test (Section 29)Note: Renewal of the engine/transmission oil and filter at this serviceinterval is only necessary on pre-1985 models. On all other models,oil and filter renewal is recommended at 12 000 miles/12 months.

Every 12 000 miles (20 000 km) or12 months, whichever comes firstIn addition to the items listed above, carry out the following:mm Renew the air cleaner element (Section 30)mm Check and if necessary adjust the valve clearances

(Section 31)mm Inspect the distributor cap, rotor arm and HT leads

(Section 32)mm Renew the spark plugs (Section 33)mm Check the emission control equipment (Section 34)

Every 24 000 miles (40 000 km) ortwenty four months, whichevercomes firstIn addition to the items listed above, carry out the following:

mm Renew the coolant (Section 35)mm Renew the brake fluid (Section 36)mm Renew the fuel filter - fuel injection models

(Section 37)

The maintenance intervals in this manualare provided with the assumption that you,not the dealer, will be carrying out the work.These are the average maintenance intervalsrecommended by the manufacturer forvehicles driven daily under normal conditions.Obviously some variation of these intervals

may be expected depending on territory ofuse, and conditions encountered. If you wishto keep your vehicle in peak condition at alltimes, you may wish to perform some of theseprocedures more often. We encouragefrequent maintenance because it enhancesthe efficiency, performance and resale value

of your vehicle.If the vehicle is driven in dusty areas, used

to tow a trailer, driven frequently at slowspeeds (idling in traffic) or on short journeys,more frequent maintenance intervals arerecommended.

1•4 Maintenance - component location

Underbonnet view of a 998 cc Mini 1000 Saloon

1 Brake master cylinder reservoir2 Clutch master cylinder reservoir3 Fuse block4 Carburettor piston damper5 Air cleaner

6 Windscreen wiper motor7 Radiator pressure cap8 Engine/transmission oil filler cap9 Alternator10 Engine/transmission oil dipstick

11 Distributor12 Ignition coil13 Vehicle identification plate14 Clutch slave cylinder15 Windscreen washer reservoir

Maintenance - component location 1•5

1

Underbonnet view of a 1275 cc Mini Cooper Saloon(air cleaner removed for clarity)

1 Alternator2 Ignition coil3 Engine/transmission oil dipstick4 Engine management (fuel

injection/ignition) ECU5 Radiator pressure cap

6 Brake fluid reservoir cap7 Brake system vacuum servo unit8 Relay module9 Fuel cut-off inertia switch10 Manifold absolute pressure (MAP)

sensor fuel trap

11 Fuel return pipe12 Fuel feed pipe13 Accelerator cable14 Throttle body assembly15 Heater coolant valve16 Charcoal canister purge valve

1•6 Maintenance - component location

Front underside view of a 998 cc Mini 1000 Saloon

1 Engine/transmission oil drain plug2 Oil filter3 Front suspension tie-bar4 Disc brake caliper5 Driveshaft outer CV joint

6 Front subframe7 Subframe rear mounting8 Offset sphere type inner CV joint9 Gearchange extension rod10 Battery positive cable

11 Steering tie-rod outer balljoint12 Lower suspension arm13 Exhaust bracket

Maintenance - component location 1•7

1

Rear underside view of a 998 cc Mini 1000 Saloon

1 Rear subframe2 Rear brake wheel cylinder attachment

3 Exhaust rear silencer4 Battery box5 Exhaust mounting

6 Handbrake cable guide7 Battery positive cable

1 Introduction

1 This Chapter is designed to help the homemechanic maintain his/her vehicle for safety,economy, long life and peak performance.2 This Chapter contains a mastermaintenance schedule, followed by Sectionsdealing specifically with each task in theschedule. Visual checks, adjustments,component renewal and other helpful itemsare included. Refer to the accompanyingillustrations of the engine compartment andthe underside of the vehicle for the locationsof the various components.3 Servicing your vehicle in accordance withthe mileage/time maintenance schedule andthe following Sections will provide a plannedmaintenance programme, which should resultin a long and reliable service life. This is acomprehensive plan, so maintaining someitems but not others at the specified serviceintervals will not produce the same results.4 As you service your vehicle, you willdiscover that many of the procedures can -and should - be grouped together, because ofthe particular procedure being performed, orbecause of the close proximity of twootherwise-unrelated components to oneanother. For example, if the vehicle is raisedfor any reason, the exhaust should beinspected at the same time as the suspensionand steering components.5 The first step of this maintenanceprogramme is to prepare yourself before theactual work begins. Read through all theSections relevant to the work to be carriedout, then make a list and gather together all

the parts and tools required. If a problem isencountered, seek advice from a partsspecialist or a dealer service department.

2 Intensive maintenance

1 If, from the time the vehicle is new, theroutine maintenance schedule is followedclosely, and frequent checks are made of fluidlevels and high-wear items, as suggestedthroughout this manual, the engine will bekept in relatively good running condition, andthe need for additional work will be minimised.2 It is possible that there will be some timeswhen the engine is running poorly due to thelack of regular maintenance. This is even morelikely if a used vehicle, which has not receivedregular and frequent maintenance checks, ispurchased. In such cases, additional workmay need to be carried out, outside of theregular maintenance intervals.3 If engine wear is suspected, a compressiontest (refer to Chapter 2A) will provide valuableinformation regarding the overall performanceof the main internal components. Such a testcan be used as a basis to decide on theextent of the work to be carried out. If, forexample, a compression test indicates seriousinternal engine wear, conventionalmaintenance as described in this Chapter willnot greatly improve the performance of theengine, and may prove a waste of time andmoney, unless extensive overhaul work(Chapter 2B) is carried out first.4 The following series of operations are thoseoften required to improve the performance ofa generally poor-running engine:

Primary operationsa) Clean, inspect and test the battery (See

“Weekly checks”).b) Check all the engine-related fluids (See

“Weekly checks”).c) Check and if necessary adjust the valve

clearances (Section 31).d) Check the condition of the fan belt

(Section 8).e) Top up the carburettor piston damper

(Section 19)f) Check the condition and adjustment of

the contact breaker points (Section 20).g) Inspect the distributor cap, rotor arm and

HT leads (Section 32).h) Renew the spark plugs (Section 33).i) Check and if necessary adjust the ignition

timing (Section 25).j) Check the condition of the air cleaner

filter element and renew if necessary(Section 30).

k) Check and if necessary adjust thecarburettor idle speed and mixturesettings (Section 26).

l) Renew the fuel filter - fuel injectionmodels (Section 37).

m)Check the condition of all hoses, andcheck for fluid leaks (Section 18).

5 If the above operations do not prove fullyeffective, carry out the following operations:

Secondary operationsAll the items listed under “Primaryoperations”, plus the following:a) Check the charging system (Chapter 5A).b) Check the ignition system (Chapter 5B).c) Check the fuel system (Chapter 4A and B).d) Renew the distributor cap and rotor arm

(Section 32).e) Renew the ignition HT leads (Section 32).

3 Drum brake adjustment 21 As wear takes place on the brake shoefriction material, the clearance between thefriction material and the inner circumferenceof the brake drum will increase, resulting inexcessive brake pedal travel before thebrakes are applied. To compensate for this,adjusters are provided at the rear of eachbrake backplate, enabling the clearancebetween the brake shoe and drum to be keptto a minimum.2 At the front two adjusters are fitted to eachbrake backplate. At the rear a single adjusteris located at the top of each brake backplate.

Front brakes3 Chock the rear wheels then jack up thefront of the car and support it on axle stands(see “Jacking and vehicle support”).

4 Each front brake has two adjusters of theeccentric cam type, accessible from the rearof each brake backplate. One of theseadjusters is located behind the steering armand insufficient clearance exists to enable anordinary brake adjusting spanner to be used.Providing the adjuster is not excessively tightor partially seized in the backplate, a 5⁄16 in AFopen-ended spanner can be used quitesuccessfully to turn the adjuster.5 Begin by turning one of the adjusters in theforward direction of wheel rotation until thewheel is locked (see illustration). Now back itoff slightly, until the wheel turns freely. Thebrake drum may rub slightly in one or twoplaces as the wheel is turned. This isacceptable providing the wheel does not bind.Caution: If, when attempting to adjust thebrakes, the square-headed adjuster isreluctant to turn, it is quite likely that it hasbecome seized in its housing. If this is thecase do not force it, or you will probablybreak off the square head, necessitating

renewal of the complete backplateassembly. Apply liberal amounts ofpenetrating oil to the rear of the adjusterand allow it to soak in. Now turn theadjuster back and forth slightly, usinggentle force if necessary, increasing themovement each time. When the adjusterturns easily apply a multipurpose grease to

1•8 Maintenance procedures

Every 3000 miles or 3 months

3.5 Adjusting one of the front brakeadjusters with a brake adjusting spanner

the exposed portion of the adjuster at therear of the backplate and then turn itthrough its entire travel. Preferably do thiswith the brake drum removed. 6 Turn the second adjuster also in thedirection of forward wheel rotation until thedrum locks again. Now back the adjuster offuntil the wheel turns freely once more.7 Repeat this procedure for the other frontwheel and then lower the car to the ground.

Rear brakes8 Chock the front wheels then jack up therear of the car and support it on axle stands(see “Jacking and vehicle support”). Ensurethat the handbrake is off.9 Using a brake adjusting spanner, turn thesquare-headed adjuster in a clockwisedirection (viewed from the rear of thebackplate) until the wheel is locked (seeillustration). The adjusters on the rear brakesare even more prone to seizure than those atthe front. If the adjuster is reluctant to turnattempt to free it off as described above. Ifthis fails, remove the rear brake drums andbrake shoes as described in Chapter 9, andclean and lubricate the adjuster thoroughly.When all is well, refit the brake assembliesand start the adjustment procedure again.10 Now turn the adjuster back a quarter of a

turn at a time until the wheel turns freelywithout binding. A slight rubbing may be feltwhen the wheel is turned slowly, indicating ahigh spot on the drum or dust on the linings.This is acceptable providing the drum doesnot bind.11 Repeat this procedure for the other rearbrake then, before lowering the car to theground, check the handbrake adjustment asdescribed in the following Section.

4 Handbrake check andadjustment 2

1 Adjustment of the handbrake cables isusually only necessary after high mileagewhen a slight stretching of the cables will havetaken place, or if the cables have beenremoved.2 Before adjusting the handbrake check thatthe footbrake is correctly adjusted asdescribed in Section 3.3 Chock the front wheels then jack up therear of the car and support it on axle stands(see “Jacking and vehicle support”).4 Apply the handbrake lever to the third notchof the ratchet and check that the rear wheelsare locked. If not, adjust the handbrake asfollows.5 With the handbrake still applied to the thirdclick of the ratchet, tilt the front seats forward,and on models having twin cables, tighten thecable adjusting nuts at the base of the leveruntil the rear wheels can only just be turnedby heavy hand pressure. On models having asingle front cable, slacken the locknut androtate the cable adjusting nut. When thewheels can only just be turned by heavy handpressure, tighten the locknut (seeillustrations).6 Release the handbrake lever and ensurethat the wheels rotate freely. If satisfactorylower the car to the ground.

5 Steering and suspensioncheck 2

Steering1 First check for wear in the steering tie-rodouter balljoints. Turn the steering to left orright lock sufficiently to allow the joints to beobserved. Now have an assistant turn thesteering wheel back and forth slightly. If thereis any side movement in the balljoint it mustbe renewed. Similarly place your hand overthe rubber gaiter at the end of the rackhousing and feel for any excess free play ofthe inner balljoint. If the condition of this jointis suspect, a further investigation should becarried out with the gaiter removed asdescribed in Chapter 10.2 Check the tightness of the steering columnclamp bolt at the base of the column. Anyslackness at this joint can also show up asfree play at the steering wheel.

Front suspension3 To inspect the front suspension, chock therear wheels then jack up the front of the carand support it on axle stands (see “Jackingand vehicle support”).4 Visually inspect the balljoint dust coversand the steering gear gaiters for splits, chafingor deterioration. Any wear of thesecomponents will cause loss of lubricant,together with dirt and water entry, resulting inrapid deterioration of the balljoints or steeringgear.5 Grasp the roadwheel at the 12 o’clock and6 o’clock positions and try to rock it. If anymovement is felt it is likely to be in one ormore of the following areas:

Hub bearings6 Continue rocking the wheel while yourassistant depresses the footbrake. If the

Every 3000 miles or 3 months 1•9

1

3.9 Adjusting the rear brakes

4.5a Handbrake adjustment on models with twin cables 4.5b Handbrake cable adjusting nut on models with a single front cable

movement disappears or becomes lesssevere, then the wheel hub bearings in theswivel hub are at fault. Any perceptiblemovement at all indicates wear in the hubbearings, and they should be renewed asdescribed in Chapter 10.

Swivel hub balljoints7 Wear of the swivel hub balljoints is fairlycommon on Minis and will be quite obviouson inspection because the whole swivel hubwill appear to move in relation to thesuspension arms as the wheel is rocked. Ifthis is the case, the balljoints should beadjusted, or if badly worn, renewed; theseprocedures are contained in Chapter 10.

Suspension arm mountings8 Check for wear of the lower arm innermounting bushes where the arm is bolted tothe subframe. If the bushes are worn, the armwill appear to move in and out as the wheel isrocked.9 The upper arm inner roller bearings cannotbe inspected without partially dismantling thesuspension because the rubber cone springor displacer unit holds the arm in tension andany wear will not be evident. It can beremoved for closer inspection if required asdescribed in Chapter 10; however, wear of theupper arm and its bearings is uncommon.10 With the brakes still firmly applied, try torotate the wheel back and forth. If anymovement is now felt, examine the tie-barbetween the lower suspension arm andsubframe for wear or deterioration of therubber bushes.

Rear suspension11 To check the rear suspension for wear,chock the front wheels then jack up the rear ofthe car and support it on axle stands (see“Jacking and vehicle support”).12 Wear of the rear suspension componentscan often be felt when driving the car as atendency for the rear of the vehicle to wanderover uneven road surfaces or when cornering.

To isolate the worn components, grasp theroadwheel at the 12 o’clock and 6 o’clockpositions and try to rock it. If any movement isfelt, it is likely to be in one of the followingareas:

Hub bearings13 Continue rocking the wheel while anassistant depresses the footbrake. If themovement disappears or becomes lesspronounced, then the bearings in the rear hubare at fault. The bearings should be renewed ifthere is any appreciable movement whatsoever.

Radius arm bearings14 With the footbrake still applied, continuerocking the wheel and observe the front of theradius arm. If it can be seen to moveappreciably up and down, then wear hastaken place in the roller or plain bearing in theradius arm, or on the pivot shaft. If this is thecase, the radius arm should be removed foroverhaul as described in Chapter 10.

6 Underbody and fuel/brakeline check 1

1 With the vehicle raised and supported onaxle stands (see “Jacking and vehiclesupport”), or over an inspection pit,thoroughly inspect the underbody and wheelarches for signs of damage and corrosion. Inparticular, examine the bottom of the sidesills, and any concealed areas where mud cancollect. Where corrosion and rust is evident,press and tap firmly on the panel with ascrewdriver, and check for any seriouscorrosion which would necessitate repairs. If

the panel is not seriously corroded, cleanaway the rust, and apply a new coating ofunderseal. Refer to Chapter 11 for moredetails of body repairs.2 At the same time, inspect the treated lowerbody panels for stone damage and generalcondition.3 Examine the subframes carefully,particularly the side members of the rearsubframe. Corrosion here is a commonoccurrence on Minis, particularly oldermodels, and is one of the main causes ofMOT test failure on these cars (seeillustration). Where corrosion has reached anadvanced stage, renewal of the subframe isthe only satisfactory cure.4 Inspect all of the fuel and brake lines on theunderbody for damage, rust, corrosion andleakage. Also make sure that they arecorrectly supported in their clips. The batterypositive cable which runs under the car fromfront to rear is a common problem area as it isprone to damage or chafing if not properlyrouted or secured.5 Inspect the flexible brake hoses in thevicinity of the backplates or front calipers,where they are subjected to most movement(see illustration). Bend them between thefingers (but do not actually bend them double,or the casing may be damaged) and checkthat this does not reveal previously hiddencracks, cuts or splits.

7 Exhaust system check 11 With the engine cold (at least three hoursafter the vehicle has been driven), check thecomplete exhaust system, from its startingpoint at the engine to the end of the tailpipe.Ideally, this should be done on a hoist, whereunrestricted access is available; if a hoist is notavailable, raise and support the vehicle on axlestands (see “Jacking and vehicle support”).

1•10 Every 3000 miles or 3 months

6.3 Advanced state of corrosion on rear subframe side member 6.5 Inspect the flexible brake hoses in the vicinity of thebackplates

Wear in the rear hub bearingscan often be confirmed byslowly turning the wheel withyour hand on the tyre. Worn

bearings usually exhibit a roughnesswhich can be felt as the wheel is turned.

2 Check the pipes and connections forevidence of leaks, severe corrosion, ordamage. Make sure that all brackets andrubber mountings are in good condition, andtight; if any of the mountings are to berenewed, ensure that the replacements are ofthe correct type. Failure of the rear mountingrubber blocks on the rear subframe is acommon problem - check these carefully (seeillustrations). Leakage at any of the joints or inother parts of the system will usually show upas a black sooty stain in the vicinity of the leak.3 At the same time, inspect the underside ofthe body for holes, corrosion, open seams,etc. which may allow exhaust gases to enterthe passenger compartment. Seal all bodyopenings with silicone or body putty.4 Rattles and other noises can often betraced to the exhaust system, especially therubber mountings. Try to move the system,silencer(s) and catalytic converter. If anycomponents can touch the body orsuspension parts, secure the exhaust systemwith new mountings.

8 Fan belt check and renewal 2Note: If the car is fitted with exhaust emissioncontrol equipment it will first be necessary toremove the air pump drivebelt as described inSection 9 to allow access to the fan belt.

Check and adjustment1 Release the three retaining lugs and removethe engine ignition shield, if fitted. Rotate thecrankshaft so that the entire length of the fanbelt can be examined. On manualtransmission models, the engine can berotated quite easily by engaging top gear andmoving the car backwards or forwards toallow the belt to be inspected. This shouldonly be done on level ground; and make surethat the car cannot run away! An alternative

method, and the method that should be usedon automatic transmission models, is to pressthe fan belt midway between the water pumppulley and dynamo or alternator pulley andthen turn the fan blades.

2 Examine the belt for cracks, splitting,fraying or damage. Check also for signs ofglazing (shiny patches) and for separation ofthe belt plies. Renew the fan belt if worn ordamaged.3 If the condition of the belt is satisfactory,check the adjustment as follows.4 It is most important to keep the fan beltcorrectly adjusted; If the belt is too loose it willslip and wear rapidly, resulting in inefficientoperation of the water pump and dynamo oralternator. If it is too tight, it will imposeexcessive strain on the bearings of the waterpump, dynamo or alternator causingpremature failure of these components.5 The fan belt tension is correct when thereis 13 mm of fan belt deflection, using lightfinger pressure, at a point midway between

the crankshaft and dynamo or alternatorpulleys.6 To adjust the fan belt, slacken the mountingbolts of the dynamo or alternator, and also thenut on the adjusting arm located below thewater pump (see illustration). Now move theunit either in or out until the correct tension isobtained. It is easier if the adjusting arm nut isonly slackened a little so it requires some forceto move the dynamo or alternator. In this waythe tension of the belt can be arrived at morequickly than by making frequent adjustments.If difficulty is experienced in moving thedynamo or alternator away from the engine, along spanner or bar placed behind the unit andresting against the block serves as a very goodlever and can be held in position while theadjusting and mounting bolts are fullytightened. When levering on an alternator, onlylever on the drive end or damage may occur.7 When the tension is correct, tighten theadjusting arm nut first, followed by themounting bolts.

Renewal8 To remove the fan belt, slacken the twodynamo or alternator upper mountings andthe nut on the adjusting arm below the waterpump (see illustrations).


1

8.6 Dynamo adjusting arm nut locatedbelow the water pump

7.2a Exhaust front mounting block . . . 7.2b . . . and rear mounting block on rearsubframe

8.8a Dynamo mountings and adjustment points

1 Adjustment arm retaining nuts2 Securing nut and bolt (rear)

3 Securing nut and bolt (front)

When checking the exhaust,pay particular attention to themounting on the transmission.Movement of the engine

causes this mounting to work loose,causing an annoying squeak or rattlewhen accelerating and decelerating.

Turning the engine will beeasier if the spark plugs areremoved first - see Section 33.

9 Push the dynamo or alternator toward theengine and lift the old belt off the threepulleys. Feed the belt over each fan blade inturn and withdraw it from behind the fancowling at the special gap just below the tophose (see illustration).10 Fit the new belt over the fan blades in thesame way and then place it in position on thethree pulleys.11 Adjust the fan belt tension as describedpreviously then refit the air pump drivebelt,where applicable, as described in thefollowing Section. Note: After fitting a new fanbelt, check and if necessary readjust thetension after 250 miles (400 km).

9 Air pump drivebelt checkand renewal 2

Check and adjustment1 The checks and adjustment procedure forthe air pump drivebelt are basically the sameas described in Section 9 for the fan belt.Adjust the tension of the drivebelt so thatthere is 13 mm deflection of the belt, usingthumb pressure, at a point midway betweenthe two pulleys.

Renewal2 Release the three retaining lugs and removethe engine ignition shield, if fitted.3 Undo and remove the two bolts securingthe radiator upper mounting bracket to theradiator.

4 Unscrew the radiator filler cap and slackenthe top hose securing clips. Carefully ease theradiator as far as possible toward the wingvalance. Place a container beneath the engineto catch the small quantity of coolant that willbe lost as the top hose is released.

Warning: If the engine is hot,take precautions againstscalding.

5 Slacken the air pump pivot and adjustinglink bolts, push the pump in toward theengine, and slip the drivebelt off the twopulleys.6 Feed the belt between the fan blades andthe radiator cowling at the top as the bladesare rotated. Now pull the belt out frombetween the fan and radiator.7 Refitting the drivebelt is the reversesequence to removal, adjusting the tension asdescribed previously. Top up the coolingsystem as described in “Weekly Checks” oncompletion.

10 Clutch hydraulic check 11 Check that the clutch pedal movessmoothly and easily through its full travel, andthat the clutch itself functions correctly, withno trace of slip or drag.2 Apply a few drops of light oil to the clutchpedal pivot.3 From within the engine compartment checkthe condition of the fluid lines and hoses.

Check for signs of fluid leaks around the slavecylinder rubber boot or from the feed pipe andhose. Apply a few drops of oil to the clutchoperating lever clevis pin and the pivot on theflywheel housing.

11 Seats and seat belt check 11 Check that the seats are securely attachedto the floor crossmember and that there is nosign of corrosion anywhere near themountings. Check that the seats release andthen lock in place when the releasemechanism is operated.2 Check the seat belts for satisfactoryoperation and condition. Inspect the webbingfor fraying and cuts. Check that they retractsmoothly and without binding into their reels.3 Check the seat belt mountings, ensuringthat all the bolts are securely tightened.

12 Headlight beam alignmentcheck 5

Accurate adjustment of the headlight beamis only possible using optical beam-settingequipment, and this work should therefore becarried out by a Rover dealer or servicestation with the necessary facilities.

Basic adjustments can be carried out in anemergency, and further details are given inChapter 12.


8.8b Alternator mounting and adjustment points

1 Adjustment arm fixings2 Securing nut and bolt (rear)

3 Securing nut and bolt (front)

8.9 The gap in the radiator shroud of early models (arrowed) toallow removal and refitting of the fan belt

13 Engine/transmission oil andfilter renewal 2

1 Frequent oil changes are the bestpreventive maintenance the home mechaniccan give the engine, because ageing oilbecomes diluted and contaminated, whichleads to premature engine wear.2 Make sure that you have all the necessarytools before you begin this procedure. Youshould also have plenty of rags or newspapershandy, for mopping up any spills. The oilshould preferably be changed when theengine is still fully warmed-up to normaloperating temperature, just after a run; warmoil and sludge will flow out more easily. Takecare, however, not to touch the exhaust or anyother hot parts of the engine when workingunder the vehicle. To avoid any possibility ofscalding, and to protect yourself from possibleskin irritants and other harmful contaminantsin used engine oils, it is advisable to weargloves when carrying out this work. Access tothe underside of the vehicle is greatlyimproved if the vehicle can be lifted on a hoist,driven onto ramps, or supported by axlestands. (see “Jacking and vehicle support”).Whichever method is chosen, make sure thatthe vehicle remains level, or if it is at an angle,that the drain point is at the lowest point.

Oil draining3 Position the draining container under thedrain plug on the side of the transmissioncasing, and unscrew the plug (seeillustration). If possible, try to keep the plugpressed into the sump while unscrewing it byhand the last couple of turns.4 Allow the oil to drain into the container (seeHaynes Hint), and check the condition of theplug’s sealing washer; renew it if worn ordamaged. Also wipe off any metal particlesthat may have accumulated on the magnet.5 Allow some time for the old oil to drain,noting that it may be necessary to repositionthe container as the oil flow slows to a trickle;when the oil has completely drained, wipeclean the drain plug and its threads in thetransmission and refit the plug, tightening it tothe specified torque.

Oil filter renewal6 The oil filter is located underneath thedynamo or alternator on the forward-facingside of the engine. On early manualtransmission models the filter is of thedisposable cartridge type contained within analuminium bowl. On later models a throwawaycanister is used. All automatic transmissionmodels utilise the cartridge type filter. Torenew the filter proceed as follows.

Cartridge type7 Reposition the draining container under theoil filter then undo and remove the long centrebolt securing the bowl to the housing (seeillustration). On some models it may beadvantageous to remove the grille panel, asspace is rather limited.8 With the bolts released, carefully lift awaythe filter bowl, which contains the filters andwill also be full of oil.9 Discard the old filter element but first makesure that the metal pressure plate has notstuck to the bottom of it. Now thoroughlyclean out the filter bowl, the bolt, and theparts associated with it, using paraffin or asuitable solvent (see illustration) Dry with alint free cloth10 A rubber sealing ring is located in agroove round the head of the filter housingand forms an effective leak-proof jointbetween the housing and the filter bowl. Anew rubber sealing ring is supplied with eachnew filter element.11 Carefully prise out the old sealing ringfrom the locating groove. If the ring hasbecome hard and is difficult to move take

great care not to damage the sides of thesealing ring groove.12 With the old ring removed, fit the new ringin the groove at four equidistant points andpress it home a segment at a time. Do notinsert the ring at just one point and workround the groove pressing it home as, usingthis method, it is easy to stretch the ring andbe left with a small loop of rubber which willnot fit into the locating groove (seeillustration). 13 Reassemble the oil filter assembly by firstpassing up the bolt through the hole in thebottom of the bowl, with a steel washer underthe bolt’s head and a rubber or felt washer ontop of the steel washer and next to the filterbowl.14 Slide the spring over the bolt followed bythe other steel washer, the remaining rubberwasher and finally the filter pressure plateconcave face downwards.15 After fitting the new element to the bowl,position the bowl on the rubber sealing ringthen insert and hand tighten the bolt. Beforefinally tightening the centre bolt, ensure thatthe lip of the filter bowl is resting squarely onthe rubber sealing ring and is not offset orseated off the ring. If the bowl is not seatingproperly, rotate it until it is. Run the engineand check the bowl for leaks.


1

13.3 Engine/transmission oil drain plug(arrowed)

13.7 Cartridge type oil filter and retainingbolt as seen from below

13.12 Fitting a new cartridge type oil filtersealing ring

13.9 Components of the cartridge type oilfilter

Keep the drain plug pressed into thesump while unscrewing it by hand thelast couple of turns. As the plugreleases, move it away sharply so thestream of oil issuing from the sumpruns into the container, not up yoursleeve!

Canister type16 Reposition the draining container underthe oil filter then, using a suitable filter removaltool if necessary, slacken the canister initially,then unscrew it by hand the rest of the way;be prepared for some oil spillage (seeillustration). Empty the oil in the old canisterinto the container.17 Using a clean, lint-free rag, wipe clean thecylinder block around the filter housing.Check the old canister to make sure that therubber sealing ring hasn’t stuck to the filterhousing; if it has, carefully remove it.18 Apply a light coating of clean engine oil tothe sealing ring on the new canister. Screwthe canister into position on the housing untilit seats, then tighten it firmly by hand only - donot use any tools.19 Remove the old oil and all tools fromunder the vehicle, then lower the vehicle tothe ground.

Oil filling20 Remove the dipstick and the oil filler capfrom the engine. Fill the engine with oil, usingthe correct grade and type of oil, (seeSpecifications). Pour in half the specifiedquantity of oil first, then wait a few minutes forthe oil to fall to the transmission casing. Takecare during this operation, particularly in coldweather as it is all to easy to fill up the rockercover before the oil drains down into theengine, with very messy results as it overflowsout of the filler neck. Continue adding oil asmall quantity at a time, until the level is up tothe lower mark on the dipstick. Addingapproximately 0.5 litres will raise the level tothe upper mark on the dipstick.21 Start the engine. The oil pressure warninglight will take a few seconds to go out whilethe new filter fills with oil; do not race theengine while the light is on. Run the engine fora few minutes, while checking for leaksaround the oil filter seal and the drain plug.22 Switch off the engine, and wait a fewminutes for the oil to settle in the transmissiononce more. With the new oil circulated andthe filter now completely full, recheck the levelon the dipstick, and add more oil asnecessary.23 Dispose of the used engine oil safely andin accordance with environmental regulations(see “General repair procedures”).

14 Front brake wear check 1Warning: The dust created by wearof the shoes may contain asbestos,which is a health hazard. Neverblow it out with compressed air,

and don’t inhale any of it. An approved filteringmask should be worn when working on thebrakes. DO NOT use petrol or petroleum-based solvents to clean brake parts; use brakecleaner or methylated spirit only.

Drum brake models1 After high mileage the friction linings on thebrake shoes will have worn, and it willtherefore be necessary to fit replacementshoes with new linings.2 Chock the rear wheels then jack up thefront of the car and support it on axle stands(see “Jacking and vehicle support”). Removethe front roadwheels.3 Slacken off the brake shoe adjuster(s) frombehind the backplate, and then undo andremove the two brake drum retaining screws.4 Remove the brake drum from the wheelhub. If the drum is tight, gently tap itscircumference with a soft-faced mallet.5 Brush and wipe away all traces of asbestosdust from the brake shoes, wheel cylindersand backplate, and also from the innercircumference of the brake drum. 6 Inspect the friction material and renew thebrake shoes as described in Chapter 9 if theyhave worn down to less than the specifiedminimum thickness.7 The brake shoes must also be renewed ifthere is any sign of hydraulic fluidcontamination of the linings due to a leakingbrake wheel cylinder. If this is the case, thecause of the leak must be traced and rectifiedbefore fitting new brake shoes.8 Brake shoes should always be renewed ascomplete sets (four shoes to a set), otherwiseuneven braking and pulling to one side mayoccur.9 It is advisable to check that the brake wheelcylinders are operating correctly beforeproceeding further. To do this hold the brakeshoes in position using two screwdrivers whilean assistant very slowly depresses the brakepedal slightly. Check that the wheel cylinderpistons move out as the pedal is depressed,and return when the pedal is released. If this isnot the case, it is quite likely that one of thewheel cylinder pistons is seized and the cylindershould therefore be renewed (Chapter 9).

10 Also check the condition of the brakedrum, If it is deeply scored on its innercircumference it may be possible to have itskimmed at an engineering works. If thescoring is severe, renewal will be necessary

Disc brake models11 Jack up the front or rear of the vehicle inturn, and support it on axle stands (see“Jacking and vehicle support”).12 For better access to the brake calipers,remove the roadwheels.13 Look through the opening in the front ofthe caliper, and check that the thickness ofthe friction lining material on each of the padsis not less than the recommended minimumthickness given in the Specifications (seeHaynes Hint). If any one of the brake padshas worn down to, or below, the specifiedlimit, all four pads must be renewed as a set(ie all the front pads).

14 For a comprehensive check, the brakepads should be removed and cleaned. Theoperation of the brake calipers can then bechecked, and the brake discs can be fullyexamined. Refer to Chapter 9 for details.

15 Driveshaft gaiter check 1With the vehicle raised and securely

supported on stands (see “Jacking andvehicle support”), turn the steering onto fulllock, then slowly rotate the roadwheel.Inspect the condition of the outer constantvelocity (CV) joint rubber gaiters, squeezingthe gaiters to open out the folds. Check forsigns of cracking, splits or deterioration of therubber, which may allow the grease toescape, and lead to water and grit entry intothe joint. Also check the security andcondition of the retaining clips. Repeat thesechecks on the inner CV joints where offsetsphere type joints are fitted. If any damage ordeterioration is found, the gaiters should berenewed as described in Chapter 8.

At the same time, check the general conditionof the CV joints themselves by first holding the


13.16 Canister type oil filter

1 Housing2 Sealing ring

3 Filter

Look through the opening in the caliperand check the thickness of the frictionlining material on the brake pads

driveshaft and attempting to rotate the wheel.Repeat this check by holding the inner joint andattempting to rotate the driveshaft. Anyappreciable movement indicates wear in thejoints, wear in the driveshaft splines, or a loosedriveshaft retaining nut.

16 Steering and suspensionlubrication 1

1 Unlike most modern cars, there are a numberof steering and suspension joints on the Miniwhich require regular attention. Provision forlubrication of these joints is by means of agrease nipple, to which a grease gun can beengaged. The grease nipples are located in thefollowing areas (see illustrations):a) Steering swivel hub; two nipples, one

upper and one lower on each side.b) Upper suspension arm inner pivot; one

nipple on each arm.c) Rear radius arm pivot; one nipple on each

pivot. Remove the rubber blanking plug toexpose the nipple on early models.

2 When lubricating the front grease nipples itis preferable to raise the front of the car andsupport it on axle stands (see “Jacking andvehicle support”) so that the load is taken offthe suspension. This will allow the grease topenetrate into the joints more effectively. Therear radius arm pivots can be lubricated withthe car on its roadwheels if wished.3 With the car raised and suitably supported,wipe clean the area all round the greasenipple and the nipple itself. Engage the headof a grease gun, filled with the specifiedgrease, squarely onto the nipple, keeping itpushed fully home. Operate the gun untilgrease can be seen to appear from under thedust cover over the joint or from around theside of the pivot bushes.4 When lubricating the rear radius arm pivots, agenerous amount of grease will be needed eachside, quite a bit more than was required for thefront suspension joints. It probably won’t bepossible to tell when sufficient has beenapplied, unless you look underneath at the innerattachment on the subframe, it may be possibleto see it appear around the inner pivot; add a bitmore if in doubt .This is a vitally important areaon the Mini and it must be well lubricated.

5 Although not actually part of the steeringand suspension, the handbrake cable guidesand the moving sectors on the rear subframeshould be lubricated at this time to ensuresmooth operation. There are no greasenipples, so the grease should be applied witha wooden spatula or similar tool to lubricatethese areas thoroughly.

17 Rear brake wear check 1The procedure for checking the rear brake

components is the same as described inSection 14 for models with drum brakes.

18 Underbonnet check for fluidleaks and hose condition 1

General1 High temperatures in the enginecompartment can cause the deterioration ofthe rubber and plastic hoses used for engine,accessory and emission systems operation.Periodic inspection should be made forcracks, loose clamps, material hardening andleaks.2 Carefully check the large top and bottomradiator hoses, along with the other smaller-diameter cooling system hoses and metalpipes; do not forget the heater hoses/pipeswhich run from the engine to the bulkhead.Inspect each hose along its entire length,replacing any that are cracked, swollen orshows signs of deterioration. Cracks maybecome more apparent if the hose issqueezed (see Haynes Hint).3 Make sure that all hose connections aretight. If the spring clamps that are used tosecure some of the hoses appear to beslackening, they should be renewed toprevent the possibility of leaks.4 Some other hoses are secured to theirfittings with screw type clips. Where screwtype clips are used, check to be sure theyhaven’t slackened, allowing the hose to leak.If clamps or screw type clips aren’t used,

make sure the hose has not expanded and/orhardened where it slips over the fitting,allowing it to leak.5 Check all fluid reservoirs, filler caps, drainplugs and fittings etc, looking for any signs ofleakage of oil, transmission and/or brakehydraulic fluid or coolant. If the vehicle isregularly parked in the same place, closeinspection of the ground underneath it willsoon show any leaks. As soon as a leak isdetected, its source must be traced andrectified. Where oil has been leaking for sometime, it is usually necessary to use a steamcleaner, pressure washer or similar, to cleanaway the accumulated dirt, so that the exactsource of the leak can be identified.

Vacuum hoses6 It’s quite common for vacuum hoses,especially those in the emissions system, tobe numbered or colour-coded, or to beidentified by coloured stripes moulded intothem. Various systems require hoses withdifferent wall thicknesses, collapse resistanceand temperature resistance. When renewinghoses, be sure the new ones are made of thesame material.7 Often the only effective way to check ahose is to remove it completely from thevehicle. If more than one hose is removed, besure to label the hoses and fittings to ensurecorrect installation.8 When checking vacuum hoses, be sure toinclude any plastic T-fittings in the check.


1

16.1a Lubricating the swivel hub uppergrease nipple . . .

16.1b . . . the upper suspension arm innerpivot grease nipple . . .

16.1c . . . and the rear radius arm pivotgrease nipple

A leak in the cooling system will usuallyshow up as white or rust coloureddeposits on the area adjoining the leak

Inspect the fittings for cracks, and check thehose where it fits over the fitting for distortion,which could cause leakage.9 A small piece of vacuum hose can be usedas a stethoscope to detect vacuum leaks.Hold one end of the hose to your ear, andprobe around vacuum hoses and fittings,listening for the “hissing” sound characteristicof a vacuum leak.

Warning: When probing with thevacuum hose stethoscope, bevery careful not to come intocontact with moving engine

components such as the fan or fan belt.

Fuel hosesWarning: Before carrying out thefollowing operation, refer to theprecautions given in “Safetyfirst!” at the beginning of this

manual, and follow them implicitly. Petrolis a highly dangerous and volatile liquid,and the precautions necessary whenhandling it cannot be overstressed.10 Check all fuel hoses for deterioration andchafing. Check especially for cracks in areaswhere the hose bends, and also just beforefittings, such as where a hose attaches to thecarburettor.11 Spring-type clamps are commonly usedon fuel lines. These clamps often lose theirtension over a period of time, and can be“sprung” during removal. Replace all spring-type clamps with screw clips whenever a hoseis replaced.

Metal lines12 Sections of metal piping are often usedfor fuel line between the fuel tank, filter andthe engine. Check carefully to be sure thepiping has not been bent or crimped, and thatcracks have not started in the line.13 If a section of metal fuel line must berenewed, only seamless steel piping shouldbe used, since copper and aluminium pipingdon’t have the strength necessary towithstand normal engine vibration.14 Check the metal brake lines where theyenter the master cylinder for cracks in thelines or loose fittings. Any sign of brake fluidleakage calls for an immediate and thoroughinspection of the brake system.

19 Fuel system components,checks and lubrication 1

1 Sparingly apply a few drops of light oil to thethrottle spindles, accelerator cable and thepedal pivot. Similarly lubricate the exposedends of the choke cable (where fitted).2 Check that there is a small amount ofslackness in the cable so that the throttle linkagecloses fully with the accelerator pedal released.Also check that full throttle can be obtained withthe accelerator pedal fully depressed.3 If there is any doubt about the cableadjustment, refer to the relevant Parts of

Chapter 4 for the full adjustment procedure.4 On carburettor models, unscrew the pistondamper cap from the top of the carburettordashpot (see illustration). Top up the damperwith engine oil until the level is 13.0 mm abovethe top of the hollow piston rod.5 Slowly push the damper back into thepiston and screw on the cap taking care notto cross-thread it.

20 Contact breaker pointscheck and adjustment 3

Refer to Chapter 5B.

21 Distributor lubrication 11 It is important that the distributor cam islightly lubricated with general purpose grease,and that the contact breaker arm, centrifugaladvance weights and cam spindle are alsovery lightly lubricated.2 Great care should be taken not to use toomuch lubricant, as any excess that might findits way onto the contact breaker points couldcause burning and misfiring.3 If an ignition shield is fitted over the front ofthe engine, release the three plastic retaininglugs and lift away the shield. Detach the twospring clips or undo the two screws securingthe distributor cap to the distributor body andlift off the cap.4 To gain access to the cam spindle, lift awaythe rotor arm. Drop no more than two drops of

engine oil onto the felt pad or screw head (seeillustration). This will run down the spindlewhen the engine is hot and lubricate thebearings. The centrifugal advance weightscan be lubricated by dropping two or threedrops of engine oil through one of the holes orslots in the distributor baseplate. No morethan one drop of oil should be applied to thecontact breaker arm pivot post.5 Refit the rotor arm, distributor cap andignition shield on completion.

22 Clutch return stopadjustment 1

Note: As friction linings of the clutch disc wear,the distance between the clutch release bearingand the clutch thrust plate will decrease. Thepressure plate will then move in closer to theclutch disc to compensate for wear. Unless thewear is taken up by adjustment of the stoplocated between the flywheel housing and the


19.4 Top up the piston damper oncarburettor models

21.4 Distributor lubrication points

1 Contact breaker cam2 Contact breaker pivot post

3 Centrifugal weights lubrication point4 Cam spindle

operating lever, the clutch will start to slip. Onlater models fitted with the verto type clutch, theassembly is self-adjusting and the followingprocedure will not be necessary.1 To carry out the adjustment, first disconnectthe clutch operating lever return spring.2 Pull the operating lever away from theengine until all the free play is eliminated.3 Hold the lever in this position and measurethe gap between the lever and the head of thestop using feeler blades (see illustration).4 If necessary, slacken the locknut and adjustthe stop bolt until the specified gap isachieved. Then tighten the locknut.

23 Dynamo check andlubrication 1

Dynamo checks and lubrication consistsimply of checking the fan belt condition andtension (Section 8) and adding a few drops ofengine oil to the dynamo rear bearinglubricating hole.

24 Control box cleaning andinspection 1

On dynamo equipped models, remove thecontrol box cover and check the cut-out andregulator contacts. If they are dirty or rough orburnt, place a piece of fine glasspaper (do notuse emery paper or carborundum paper)between the cut-out contacts, close themmanually, and draw the glasspaper throughseveral times.

Clean the regulator contacts in exactly thesame way, but use emery or carborundumpaper and not glasspaper. Carefully cleanboth sets of contacts from all traces of dustwith a rag moistened in methylated spirit. Refitthe cover on completion.

25 Ignition timing check andadjustment 3

Refer to Chapter 5B.

26 Carburettor idle speed andmixture adjustment 3

Refer to Chapter 4A.

27 Door, boot and bonnetcheck and lubrication 1

1 Check that the doors, bonnet and boot lidclose securely. Check that the bonnet safety

catch operates correctly. Check the operationof the door check straps.2 Lubricate the hinges, door check straps,the striker plates and the bonnet catchsparingly with a little oil or grease.3 If any of the doors, bonnet or boot lid do notclose effectively or appear not to be flush withthe surrounding panels, carry out the adjustmentprocedures contained in Chapter 11.

28 Bodywork, paint and exteriortrim check 1

1 The best time to carry out this check is afterthe car has been washed so that any surfaceblemish or scratch will be clearly evident andnot hidden by a film of dirt.2 Starting at one front corner check thepaintwork all around the car, looking for minorscratches or more serious dents. Check allthe trim and make sure that it is securelyattached over its entire length.3 Check the security of all door locks, doormirrors, badges, bumpers, front grille andwheel trim. Anything found loose, or in need offurther attention should be done with referenceto the relevant Chapters of this manual.4 Rectify any problems noticed with thepaintwork or body panels (see Chapter 11).

29 Road test 1Check the operation andperformance of the brakingsystem1 Make sure that the vehicle does not pull toone side when braking, and that the wheelsdo not lock when braking hard.2 Check that there is no vibration through thesteering when braking.3 Check that the handbrake operatescorrectly, without excessive movement of thelever, and that it holds the vehicle stationaryon a slope.4 With the engine switched off, test theoperation of the brake servo unit (where fitted)

as follows. Depress the footbrake four or fivetimes to exhaust the vacuum, then start theengine. As the engine starts, there should be anoticeable “give” in the brake pedal as vacuumbuilds up. Allow the engine to run for at leasttwo minutes, and then switch it off. If the brakepedal is now depressed again, it should bepossible to detect a hiss from the servo as thepedal is depressed. After about four or fiveapplications, no further hissing should be heard,and the pedal should feel considerably harder.

Steering and suspension5 Check for any abnormalities in the steering,suspension, handling or road “feel”.6 Drive the vehicle, and check that there areno unusual vibrations or noises.7 Check that the steering feels positive, withno excessive sloppiness or roughness, andcheck for any suspension noises whencornering and driving over bumps.

Drivetrain8 Check the performance of the engine,transmission and driveline.9 Check that the engine starts correctly, bothwhen cold and when hot.10 Listen for any unusual noises from theengine and transmission.11 Make sure that the engine runs smoothlywhen idling, and that there is no hesitationwhen accelerating.12 On manual transmission models, checkthat all gears can be engaged smoothlywithout noise, and that the gear lever action isnot abnormally vague or “notchy”.13 On automatic transmission models, makesure that the drive seems smooth withoutjerks or engine speed “flare-ups”. Check thatall the gear positions can be selected with thevehicle at rest.

Clutch14 Check that the clutch pedal movessmoothly and easily through its full travel, andthat the clutch itself functions correctly, withno trace of slip or drag. If the movement isuneven or stiff in places, check the systemcomponents with reference to Chapter 6.

Instruments and electricalequipment15 Check the operation of all instrumentsand electrical equipment.16 Make sure that all instruments readcorrectly, and switch on all electricalequipment in turn, to check that it functionsproperly.17 Test the operation of the brake failurewarning system (where fitted) by pressing thetest switch located next to the heated rearwindow switch. When pressed, the switchshould light and go out when released.18 If the light should come on when driving,the brake fluid level should be checked (andtopped up, if necessary), as soon as possible.


1

22.3 Using feeler blades to measure theclutch return stop clearance

30.13b Lift off the lid and remove theelement

30 Air cleaner element renewal 1Carburettor models exceptCooper S1 On models with an air intake duct over thetop of the engine, unscrew the two nutssecuring the duct to the rocker cover studs.Release the clip and disconnect the duct fromthe air cleaner body.2 Undo and remove the single wing nut andwasher on early models, or the twin wing boltsand washers on later models, securing the aircleaner to the carburettor3 If the air cleaner is retained by a single wingnut lift off the air cleaner top cover. Detach therocker cover hose, then lift the air cleanerbody off the carburettor, tip it up at the frontand slide it sideways until it is clear of the longretaining stud and can be lifted away. Recoverthe sealing ring.4 If the air cleaner is retained by two wingnuts, detach the hot air duct (where fitted) andthen lift the air cleaner body off thecarburettor.5 With the air cleaner removed from theengine, recover the rubber sealing ring if itstayed behind on the carburettor flange.6 Lift off the air cleaner cover and withdrawthe paper element. On the later type mouldedplastic air cleaners the cover is removed byprising it off with a screwdriver inserted in theslots on the periphery of the cover (seeillustrations).7 Thoroughly clean the inside of the aircleaner body.8 Refit the air cleaner and element using areverse of the removal procedure. Make surethat where an alignment arrow is stamped onthe top cover, it is pointing toward thelocation lug on the air cleaner body (seeillustration). Ensure also that the rubbersealing ring is in position before refitting theair cleaner.9 If the air cleaner body incorporates anadjustable air intake spout, this should bepositioned adjacent to the exhaust manifold inwinter and away from it in summer.

Cooper S carburettor models10 Undo and remove the two wing bolts andwashers and lift off the air cleaner top cover.Lift out the paper elements and thoroughlyclean the inside of the air cleaner body.11 The air cleaner body may be removed ifnecessary after disconnecting the enginebreather pipe and the throttle return spring.Take care not to lose the two rubber sealingwashers from the carburettor flanges.12 Refitting the air cleaner and elements isthe reverse of the removal procedure.

Fuel injection models13 Release the four retaining clips, thenslacken and remove the three screwssecuring the air cleaner assembly to thethrottle body, and lift off the air cleaner lid.Remove the filter element (see illustrations).14 Wipe the body of the air cleaner clean,then fit the new element, ensuring that it iscorrectly seated.15 Refit the air cleaner lid, and secure it inposition with the retaining screws (tighteningthem securely) and clips.

31 Valve clearance adjustment 2Refer to Chapter 2A.

32 Distributor cap, rotor armand HT lead check 1

Warning: Voltages produced byan electronic ignition system areconsiderably higher than thoseproduced by conventional

ignition systems. Extreme care must betaken when working on the system if theignition is switched on. Persons withsurgically-implanted cardiac pacemakerdevices should keep well clear of theignition circuits, components and testequipment.1 The spark plug (HT) leads should beinspected one at a time, to prevent mixing upthe firing order, which is essential for properengine operation. Gain access to the leadsand disconnect them as described for thespark plug check and renewal.2 Check inside the boot for corrosion, whichwill look like a white crusty powder. Clean thisoff as much as possible; if it is excessive, or ifcleaning leaves the metal connector too badlycorroded to be fit for further use, the leadmust be renewed. Push the lead and bootback onto the end of the spark plug. The bootshould fit tightly onto the end of the plug - if itdoesn’t, remove the lead and use plierscarefully to crimp the metal connector insidethe boot until the fit is snug.3 Using a clean rag, wipe the entire length ofthe lead to remove built-up dirt and grease.

1•18 Every 12 000 miles or 12 months

30.6b . . . and lift out the element30.6a Prise off the later type air cleanermoulded plastic cover . . .

30.8 Make sure the alignment arrow istoward the lug on the air cleaner body

30.13a On fuel injection models, releasethe clips (three arrowed) and remove the

screws

Once the lead is clean, check for burns,cracks and other damage. Do not bend thelead sharply, because the conductor mightbreak.4 Inspect the remaining spark plug (HT)leads, ensuring that each is securely fastenedat the distributor cap and spark plug when thecheck is complete. If any sign of arcing,severe connector corrosion, burns, cracks orother damage is noticed, obtain new sparkplug (HT) leads, renewing them as a set.

5 Spring back the retaining clips or undo thetwo screws and remove the distributor cap.Thoroughly clean it inside and out with a drylint-free rag.6 Examine the HT lead segments inside thecap. If they appear badly burned or pittedrenew the cap. Also check the carbon brushin the centre of the cap, ensuring that it is freeto move and stands proud of its holder. Makesure that there are no signs of cracks or black“tracking” lines running down the inside of thecap, which will also mean renewal if evident. 7 Inspect the rotor arm checking it forsecurity and also for signs of deterioration asdescribed above.8 Refit the distributor cap on completion.

33 Spark plug renewal 11 It is vital for the correct running, fullperformance and proper economy of theengine that the spark plugs perform withmaximum efficiency. The most importantfactor in ensuring this, is that the plugs fittedare appropriate for the engine (a suitable typeis specified at the end of this Chapter). If thistype is used and the engine is in goodcondition, the spark plugs should not needattention between scheduled renewalintervals. Spark plug cleaning is rarely

necessary, and should not be attemptedunless specialised equipment is available, asdamage can easily be caused to the firingends.2 Spark plug removal and refitting requires aspark plug socket, with an extension whichcan be turned by a ratchet handle or similar.This socket is lined with a rubber sleeve, toprotect the porcelain insulator of the sparkplug, and to hold the plug while you insert itinto the spark plug hole. You will also need awire-type feeler gauge, to check and adjustthe spark plug electrode gap, and a torquewrench to tighten the new plugs to thespecified torque.3 To remove the spark plugs, open thebonnet, where fitted, release the three plasticretaining lugs and lift the ignition shield off thefront of the engine4 If the marks on the original-equipment HTleads cannot be seen, mark the leads 1 to 4,to correspond to the cylinder the lead serves.5 Pull the leads from the plugs by grippingthe rubber boot, not the lead, otherwise thelead connection may be fractured (seeillustration).6 Unscrew the spark plugs, ensuring that thesocket is kept in alignment with each plug - ifthe socket is forcibly moved to either side, theporcelain top of the plug may be broken off. Ifany undue difficulty is encountered whenunscrewing any of the spark plugs, carefullycheck the cylinder head threads and sealingsurfaces for signs of wear, excessivecorrosion or damage; if any of theseconditions is found, seek the advice of adealer as to the best method of repair.7 As each plug is removed, examine it asfollows - this will give a good indication of thecondition of the engine. If the insulator nose ofthe spark plug is clean and white, with nodeposits, this is indicative of a weak mixture.8 If the tip and insulator nose are coveredwith hard black-looking deposits, then this isindicative that the mixture is too rich. Shouldthe plug be black and oily, then it is likely thatthe engine is fairly worn, as well as the mixturebeing too rich.9 If the insulator nose is covered with light tanto greyish-brown deposits, then the mixture is

correct, and it is likely that the engine is ingood condition.10 The spark plug electrode gap is ofconsiderable importance as, if it is too large ortoo small, the size of the spark and itsefficiency will be seriously impaired. The gapshould be set to the value given in theSpecifications.11 To set the electrode gap, measure thegap with a feeler blade or adjusting tool, andthen bend open, or closed, the outer plugelectrode until the correct gap is achieved(see illustration). The centre electrode shouldnever be bent, as this may crack the insulationand cause plug failure, if nothing worse. If theouter electrode is not exactly over the centreelectrode, bend it gently to align them.12 Before fitting the spark plugs, check thatthe threaded connector sleeves at the top ofthe plugs are tight, and that the plug exteriorsurfaces and threads are clean (see HaynesHint).13 On installing the spark plugs, first checkthat the cylinder head thread and sealingsurface are as clean as possible; use a cleanrag wrapped around a paintbrush to wipeclean the sealing surface. Ensure that thespark plug threads are clean and dry thenscrew them in by hand where possible. Takeextra care to enter the plug threads correctly.14 When each spark plug is started correctlyon its threads, screw it down until it just seatslightly, then tighten it to the specified torquewrench setting.15 Reconnect the HT leads in their correctorder, using a twisting motion on the bootuntil it is firmly seated. Finally, refit the ignitionshield.

Every 12 000 miles or 12 months 1•19

1

33.5 Pull the leads off the spark plugs bygripping the rubber boot

33.11 Adjusting a spark plug electrodegap

It is very often difficult to insert sparkplugs into their holes without cross-threading them. To avoid thispossibility, fit a short length of 5/16 inchinternal diameter rubber hose over theend of the spark plug. The flexible hoseacts as a universal joint to help alignthe plug with the plug hole. Should theplug begin to cross-thread, the hosewill slip on the spark plug, preventingthread damage to the aluminiumcylinder head

If new spark plug leads areto be fitted, remove theleads one at a time and fiteach new lead in exactly the

same position as the old one.

34 Emission control equipmentcheck 1

1 Of the emission control systems that maybe fitted, only the air pump drivebelt (where

applicable), the crankcase ventilation systemand the evaporative emission control systemsrequire regular checking, and even then, thecomponents of these systems require minimalattention.2 Checks and adjustment of the air pumpdrivebelt are contained in Section 9.3 The crankcase ventilation system filter in

the oil filler cap should be renewed by simplyrenewing the cap (the new cap is suppliedwith filter inside). Checks of the other systemcomponents are contained in Chapter 4C.4 Should it be felt that the other systems arenot functioning correctly, the advice of adealer should be sought.

35 Coolant renewal 2Warning: Wait until the engine iscold before starting thisprocedure. Do not allowantifreeze to come into contact

with your skin, or with painted surfaces ofthe vehicle. Rinse off spills immediatelywith plenty of water. Never leave antifreezelying around in an open container, or in apuddle in the driveway or on the garagefloor. Children and pets are attracted by itssweet smell, but antifreeze can be fatal ifingested.Note: If coolant to Rover specification, in thecorrect ratio, has been continuouslymaintained in the system, then coolantrenewal will not normally be necessary.However, to be absolutely sure about theintegrity of the antifreeze and anti-corrosionproperties of the coolant, periodic renewal isto be recommended.

Cooling system draining1 To drain the system, first remove theexpansion tank filler cap (see “Weeklychecks”). Move the heater temperaturecontrol to the hot position.

2 If there is anti-freeze in the system, placeclean bowls beneath the radiator and at the rearof the engine to collect the coolant for re-use. 3 Undo and remove the radiator drain plugand cylinder block drain plug, and allow thecoolant to drain. If fitted, the radiator drainplug is located at the bottom of the radiatornearest the grille, and the cylinder block drainplug (if fitted) can be found at the rear of theblock, beneath the engine tie-bar (seeillustration).4 On later models the radiator does notincorporate a drain plug, and it is thereforenecessary to detach the bottom hose to drainthe coolant. To do this slacken the bottomhose retaining clip and pull the hose off theradiator outlet. The hose clip is veryinaccessible and a long thin screwdriver isquite useful here. If the hose proves difficult toremove from the radiator outlet, it is possibleto gently push it off from the access holeunder the wheel arch.5 When the coolant has stopped running,probe the orifices, particularly the cylinderblock orifice, with a short piece of wire todislodge any particles of rust or sedimentwhich may be preventing the coolant fromcompletely draining out.

Cooling system flushing6 With time, the cooling system may

gradually lose its efficiency if the radiator corebecomes choked with rust, scale depositsfrom the water, and other sediment. This isespecially likely if an inferior grade ofantifreeze has been used that has not beenregularly renewed. To minimise this, as well asusing only the specified type of antifreeze andclean soft water, the system should beflushed as follows whenever any part of it isdisturbed, and/or when the coolant isrenewed.7 With the coolant drained, close the draintaps and refill the system with fresh water.Refit the radiator cap, start the engine andwarm it up to normal operating temperature,then stop it and (after allowing it to cool downcompletely) drain the system again. Repeat asnecessary until only clean water can be seento emerge, then refill finally with the specifiedcoolant mixture.8 If only clean, soft water and good-qualityantifreeze has been used, and the coolant hasbeen renewed at the specified intervals, theabove procedure will be sufficient to keep thesystem clean for a considerable length oftime. If, however, the system has beenneglected, a more thorough operation will berequired, as follows.9 To flush the system first drain the coolantas described in the previous Section. Place agarden hose in the radiator filler cap neck andallow water to run through the system for tento fifteen minutes.10 To flush the engine, remove thethermostat (see Chapter 3), insert the gardenhose into the thermostat housing, and allowwater to circulate until it runs clear from thebottom hose. If, after a reasonable period, thewater still does not run clear, the radiatorshould be flushed with a good proprietarycleaning agent.11 In severe cases of contamination,reverse-flushing of the radiator may benecessary. To do this, remove the radiator(see Chapter 3), invert it, and insert the gardenhose into the bottom outlet. Continue flushinguntil clear water runs from the top hose outlet.A similar procedure can be used to flush theheater matrix.12 The use of chemical cleaners should benecessary only as a last resort. Normally,regular renewal of the coolant will preventexcessive contamination of the system.

1•20 Every 12 000 miles or 12 months

Every 24 000 miles or 24 months

35.3 Cylinder block coolant drain tap or plug location (arrowed)

Cooling system filling13 Refit the cylinder block and radiator drainplugs or bottom hose connection asapplicable.14 Prepare a sufficient quantity of coolantmixture (water and antifreeze), in the specifiedconcentration, to allow for a surplus, so as tohave a reserve supply for topping-up. Note:On models with no cylinder block drain plug, itis not possible to fully drain the coolant. Toestablish a suitable antifreeze concentration itwill be necessary to pour adequate antifreezedirectly into the radiator and then top-up withwater. Subsequent topping-up should bedone with an antifreeze/water mixture.15 Set the heater control knob to themaximum heat position and then fill thecooling system slowly. Slow filling reduces thepossibility of air being trapped and formingair-locks. It helps also, if the large radiatorhoses are gently squeezed during the fillingprocedure.16 Do not fill the system higher than within 12mm of the filler orifice. Overfilling will merelyresult in coolant loss down the overflow pipedue to expansion.17 When the system is full, refit the filler capand turn it firmly clockwise to lock it inposition. Start the engine and run it at idlespeed, until it has warmed-up to normaloperating temperature.18 Stop the engine, allow it to cool downcompletely (overnight, if possible), thenremove the radiator filler cap and top-up ifnecessary. Refit the filler cap, tightening itsecurely, and wash off any spilt coolant fromthe engine compartment and bodywork.19 After refilling, always check carefully allcomponents of the system (but especially anyunions disturbed during draining and flushing)for signs of coolant leaks. Fresh antifreeze hasa searching action, which will rapidly exposeany weak points in the system.

36 Brake fluid renewal 3Warning: Brake hydraulic fluidcan harm your eyes and damagepainted surfaces, so useextreme caution when handling

and pouring it. Do not use fluid that hasbeen standing open for some time as itabsorbs moisture from the air. Excessmoisture can cause a dangerous loss ofbraking effectiveness.

The procedure is similar to that for thebleeding of the hydraulic system as describedin Chapter 9, except that the brake fluidreservoir should be emptied by siphoning,and allowance should be made for the oldfluid to be removed from the circuit whenbleeding a section of the circuit.

37 Fuel filter renewal (fuelinjection models) 3

Warning: Before carrying out thefollowing operation, refer to theprecautions given in “Safetyfirst!” at the beginning of this

manual, and follow them implicitly. Petrolis a highly dangerous and volatile liquid,and the precautions necessary whenhandling it cannot be overstressed.1 Disconnect the battery negative lead.2 Chock the front wheels then jack up therear of the car and support it on axle stands(see “Jacking and vehicle support”).

3 To minimise fuel loss during the followingoperation, working inside the luggagecompartment, remove the top stud, then pivotthe fuel tank trim panel downwards and fit ahose clamp to the fuel tank feed hose.4 Refer to the information on fuel systemdepressurisation contained in Chapter 4B,Section 6.5 From underneath the vehicle, slacken theunion nuts and disconnect the inlet and outletpipes from the fuel filter, whilst retaining theunion adapter/filter with an open-endedspanner (see illustrations).6 Remove the two bolts securing the filtermounting bracket to the subframe, andremove the filter assembly from the car.7 Slacken and remove the outlet pipe adapterand O-ring from the filter, then slacken theclamp bolt and slide the filter out of themounting bracket, noting which way the arrowstamped on the filter is pointing.8 Remove the plugs from the filter, then fit theoutlet pipe adapter (using a new O-ring), andtighten it securely. Ensuring that the arrow ispointing in the direction of the flow of fuel,slide the filter into position in the mountingbracket, and securely tighten the clamp bolt.9 Refit the filter assembly to the car,tightening its mounting bolts securely.10 Refit the inlet and outlet pipes to the filter,and securely tighten their union nuts.11 Lower the car to the ground, then removethe clamp from the fuel tank feed hose, andsecure the trim panel in position with itsretaining stud. Reconnect the battery, thenstart the engine and check the filter unions forleakage.

Warning: Dispose of the old filtersafely; it will be highlyflammable and may explode ifthrown on a fire.

Every 24 000 miles or 24 months 1•21

1

37.5a Fuel filter inlet union “A”, outlet union “B” and mountingbracket retaining bolts “C”

37.5b Slacken the union nuts whilst retaining the unionadapter/filter with an open-ended spanner

Old hydraulic fluid isinvariably much darker incolour than the new, makingit easy to distinguish betweenthe two.

2A

Chapter 2 Part A:Engine in-car repair procedures

Engine generalCode and displacement:

85H . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 848 cc99H . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 998 cc10H . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1098 cc12H . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1275 cc12A . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1275 cc

Bore:85H . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 62.94 mm99H . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64.59 mm10H . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64.59 mm12H . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70.61 mm12A . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70.61 mm

Stroke:85H . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68.25 mm99H . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76.20 mm10H . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83.72 mm12H . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 81.28 mm12A . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 81.28 mm

Compression ratio:85H . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.3:199H:

Pre-1983 manual transmission models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.3:11983 to 1987 manual transmission models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.3:1Automatic transmission models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.9:11988-on (category C) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.6:11989-on (low compression) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.3:11989-on (high compression) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.6:1

10H . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.5:112H:

1275 GT models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.8:1Cooper S Mk III models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.75:1

12A:Cooper models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.0:1All other models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.4:1

Direction of crankshaft rotation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Clockwise (viewed from left-hand side of vehicle)Firing order . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-3-4-2 (No 1 cylinder next to radiator)

Compression test - description and interpretation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2Crankshaft oil seals - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9Cylinder head (carburettor engines) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . 7Cylinder head (fuel injection engines) - removal and refitting . . . . . . 8Distributor driveshaft - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13Engine oil and filter renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1Engine oil level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See “Weekly Checks”Engine/transmission mountings - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12Flywheel (manual transmission models) - removal and refitting . . . . 10General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Oil cooler - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16Oil filter housing and delivery pipe - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . 15Oil pressure relief valve - removal, inspection and refitting . . . . . . . . 14Rocker shaft assembly - removal, inspection and refitting . . . . . . . . 6Timing chain, tensioner and sprockets - removal, inspection and

refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5Top Dead Centre (TDC) for number one piston - locating . . . . . . . . . 3Torque converter (automatic transmission models) - removal and

refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11Valve clearances - adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4

2A•1

Specifications

Contents







54321

Valve clearancesInlet and exhaust (engine cold):

All engine types except 12A . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.30 mm12A engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.33 to 0.38 mm

Torque wrench settings Nm lbf ftCylinder head nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68 50Rocker shaft pedestal nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32 24Crankshaft pulley bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 102 75Camshaft nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 88 65Torque converter centre bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 152 112Torque converter (six central bolts) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29 21Timing cover and front plate:

1⁄4 in UNF bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 55⁄16 in UNF bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 12

Rocker cover . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.7 3.5Engine mountings:

3⁄8 in UNC bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 30M8 bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 22M10 bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 33M12 bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72 53

1 General information

How to use this ChapterThis Part of Chapter 2 describes those

repair procedures that can reasonably becarried out on the engine while it remains inthe car. If the engine has been removed fromthe car and is being dismantled as describedin Part B, any preliminary dismantlingprocedures can be ignored.

Part B describes the removal of theengine/transmission from the vehicle, and thefull overhaul procedures that can then becarried out.

Engine descriptionThe Mini engine is a four-cylinder, water-

cooled, overhead valve type of 848, 998,1098, or 1275 cc displacement, depending onmodel and year of manufacture. The engine isbolted to the transmission assembly, whichalso forms the engine sump, and thecomplete power unit is supported, via rubbermountings, in the front subframe.

The cast iron cylinder head contains twovalves per cylinder, mounted vertically andrunning in pressed-in valve guides. The valvesare operated by rocker arms and pushrods viatubular cam followers from the camshaft,located in the left-hand side of the cylinderblock.

The inlet and exhaust manifolds areattached to the left-hand side of the cylinderhead and are linked to the valves via five inletand exhaust ports of siamese configuration.

The pistons are of anodised aluminium alloywith three compression rings and an oil controlring on all engines except later 1275 cc units.These engines only have two compressionrings. The gudgeon pin is retained in the small-end of the connecting rod by a pinch-bolt on848 cc engines, by circlips on 1098 cc andearly 998 cc engines and by an interference fit

in the connecting rod small-end bore on 1275cc and later 998 cc engines. At the other endof the connecting rod, renewable big-end shellbearings are fitted.

At the front of the engine, a single row chaindrives the camshaft via the camshaft andcrankshaft sprockets. On 1275 cc Cooper Smodels a duplex (twin row) timing chain isfitted. On the 848 cc engine, the camshaft issupported by three bearings, two being boreddirectly in the cylinder block while a whitemetal bearing (which is renewable) is fitted atthe timing chain end. On the 998 cc, 1098 ccand 1275 cc units three steel-backed metalcamshaft bearings are fitted.

The statically and dynamically balancedforged steel crankshaft is supported by threerenewable shell type main bearings.Crankshaft endfloat is controlled by four semi-circular thrustwashers located in pairs oneither side of the centre main bearing.

A forced feed system of lubrication is used,with oil circulated round the engine from thetransmission casing/sump. The level of engineoil in the sump is indicated on the dipstick,which is fitted on the right-hand side of theengine. The oil in the transmission casing/sump is also used to lubricate the transmissionand differential.

The oil pump is mounted at the end of thecylinder block and is driven by the camshaft.

Oil is drawn from the sump through a gauzescreen in the oil strainer and is sucked up thepick-up pipe and drawn into the oil pump.From the oil pump it is forced under pressurealong a gallery on the right-hand side of theengine, and through drillings to the big-end,main and camshaft bearings. A small hole ineach connecting rod allows a jet of oil tolubricate the cylinder wall with each revolution.

From the camshaft front bearing, oil is fedthrough drilled passages in the cylinder blockand head to the front rocker pedestal where itenters the hollow rocker shaft. Holes drilled inthe shaft allow for the lubrication of the rockerarms, and the valve stems and pushrod ends.

This oil is at a reduced pressure to the oildelivered to the crankshaft bearings. Oil fromthe front camshaft bearing also lubricates thetiming chain. Oil returns to the sump by variouspassages the tappets being lubricated by oilreturning via the pushrod drillings in the block.

On all models a full-flow oil filter is fitted,and all oil passes through this filter before itreaches the main oil gallery. The oil is passeddirectly from the oil pump across the block toan external pipe on the right-hand side of theengine which feeds into the filter head.Cooper S and certain later 1275 cc modelsare fitted with an oil cooler.

The water pump and fan are driven togetherwith the dynamo or alternator by a V-belt fromthe crankshaft pulley.

Both the distributor and oil pump are drivenoff the camshaft: the distributor via skew gearson the right-hand side, and the oil pump via aslotted drive or splined coupling from the rear.

Repair operations possible withthe engine in the car

The following work can be carried out withthe engine in the car:a) Compression pressure - testing.b) Valve clearances - adjustment.c) Timing chain, tensioner and sprockets -

removal and refitting.d) Rocker shaft assembly - removal and

refittinge) Cylinder head and valve gear - removal

and refitting.f) Cylinder head and pistons -

decarbonising.g) Crankshaft oil seals - renewal.h) Flywheel/torque converter - removal and

refitting.i) Engine mountings - renewal.j) Oil pressure relief valve - removal,

inspection and refitting.k) Oil filter housing and delivery pipe -

removal and refitting.l) Oil cooler - removal and refitting

2A•2 Engine in-car repair procedures

2 Compression test -description and interpretation 2

1 When engine performance is down, or ifmisfiring occurs which cannot be attributed tothe ignition or fuel systems, a compressiontest can provide diagnostic clues as to theengine’s condition. If the test is performedregularly, it can give warning of trouble beforeany other symptoms become apparent.2 The engine must be fully warmed-up tonormal operating temperature, the batterymust be fully charged, and all the spark plugsmust be removed (Chapter 1). The aid of anassistant will also be required.3 Disable the ignition system bydisconnecting the ignition coil HT lead fromthe distributor cap and earthing it on thecylinder block. Use a jumper lead or similarwire to make a good connection.4 Fit a compression tester to the No 1cylinder spark plug hole - the type of testerwhich screws into the plug thread is to bepreferred.5 Have the assistant hold the throttle wideopen, and crank the engine on the startermotor; after one or two revolutions, thecompression pressure should build up to amaximum figure, and then stabilise. Recordthe highest reading obtained.6 Repeat the test on the remaining cylinders,recording the pressure in each.7 All cylinders should produce very similarpressures; a difference of more than 2 barsbetween any two cylinders indicates a fault.Note that the compression should build upquickly in a healthy engine; low compressionon the first stroke, followed by gradually-increasing pressure on successive strokes,indicates worn piston rings. A lowcompression reading on the first stroke, whichdoes not build up during successive strokes,

indicates leaking valves or a blown headgasket (a cracked head could also be thecause). Deposits on the undersides of thevalve heads can also cause low compression.8 If the pressure in any cylinder is low, carryout the following test to isolate the cause.Introduce a teaspoonful of clean oil into thatcylinder through its spark plug hole, andrepeat the test.9 If the addition of oil temporarily improvesthe compression pressure, this indicates thatbore or piston wear is responsible for thepressure loss. No improvement suggests thatleaking or burnt valves, or a blown headgasket, may be to blame.10 A low reading from two adjacent cylindersis almost certainly due to the head gaskethaving blown between them; the presence ofcoolant in the engine oil will confirm this.11 If one cylinder is about 20 percent lowerthan the others and the engine has a slightlyrough idle, a worn camshaft lobe could be thecause.

12 If the compression reading is unusuallyhigh, the combustion chambers are probablycoated with carbon deposits. If this is thecase, the cylinder head should be removedand decarbonised.13 On completion of the test, refit the sparkplugs and reconnect the ignition coil HT lead.

3 Top Dead Centre (TDC) fornumber one piston - locating 1

1 Top dead centre (TDC) is the highest pointin the cylinder that each piston reaches as thecrankshaft turns. Each piston reaches its TDCposition at the end of its compression strokeand then again at the end of its exhauststroke. For the purpose of engine timing, TDCrefers to the position of No 1 piston at the endof its compression stroke. On the enginescovered by this manual, No 1 piston is at thetiming chain end of the engine. It is necessaryto set the engine in this position whencarrying out many of the operations in thisChapter. To do so, proceed as follows.2 Where fitted, release the three plasticretaining lugs and lift the ignition shield off thefront of the engine.3 Spring back the two distributor capretaining clips or undo the screws then placethe distributor cap to one side.4 Gain access to the ignition timing marks byundoing the two bolts securing the inspectionplate to the top of the flywheel housing andlifting off the plate. On automatic transmissionmodels, withdraw the rubber grommet fromthe top of the converter housing (seeillustrations). On later models there is atiming scale on the timing cover, together witha notch or pointer on the crankshaft pulley(see illustration).5 Turn the engine over until No 1 piston isapproaching TDC on the compression stroke.

Engine in-car repair procedures 2A•3

2A

3.4a Timing mark locations - early manual transmission models

1 Inspection cover 2 Timing marks 3 Pointer A Detail showing alternativetiming marks

B Insert screwdriver to turntorque converter

3.4b Timing mark locations - automatic transmission models

3.4c Timing scale on timing cover of latermanual transmission models

This can be checked by removing No 1 sparkplug and feeling the pressure being developedin the cylinder as the piston rises, or byremoving the rocker cover and noting when thevalves of No 4 cylinder are rocking, ie the inletvalve just opening and the exhaust valve justclosing. On manual transmission models, theengine can be turned over quite easily byengaging top gear and moving the carforwards. This should only be done on levelground; and make sure that the car cannot runaway! An alternative method, and the methodthat should be used on automatic transmissionmodels, is to press the fan belt midwaybetween the water pump pulley and dynamo oralternator pulley and then turn the fan blades.Fine positioning of the torque converter can bedone by inserting a screwdriver through theaccess hole and turning the ring gear.

6 Continue turning the engine, in the correctdirection of rotation, until No 1 piston is atTDC on the compression stroke. Verify this bychecking that the timing marks are aligned.The timing marks on the flywheel (or torqueconverter), and the pointer on the housing,can be viewed through the inspectionaperture using a small mirror. The 1/4 mark onthe flywheel or torque converter indicatesTDC and should be aligned with the pointer inthe housing. On later models with a timingscale on the timing cover, the notch in thecrankshaft pulley should be aligned with the 0pointer on the timing cover scale.7 The distributor rotor arm should now bepointing towards the No 1 spark plug HT leadsegment in the distributor cap indicating thatthe crankshaft is correctly positioned withnumber 1 cylinder at TDC on its compressionstroke. Temporarily place the cap in positionto verify this if necessary. If the rotor arm ispointing at the No 4 HT lead segment in thecap, rotate the crankshaft one full turn (360º)until the TDC timing marks are realigned andthe rotor arm is pointing at the No 1 segment.

4 Valve clearances -adjustment 2

1 The valve adjustments should be made withthe engine cold. The importance of correctrocker arm/valve stem clearances cannot beoverstressed as they vitally affect theperformance of the engine. If the clearancesare set too wide, the efficiency of the engine isreduced as the valves open later and closeearlier than was intended. If, on the otherhand the clearances are set too close there isdanger that the stems will expand uponheating and not allow the valves to closeproperly, which will cause burning of the valvehead and seat, and possible warping.

2 To gain access to the rocker arms, removethe ignition shield (where fitted) from the frontof the engine then undo the two rocker coverretaining bolts. Lift out the bolts along with theignition shield brackets and lift the rockercover and gasket away. Collect the rockercover retaining bolt dished washers from thetop of the two rubber seals.3 It is important that the clearance is set whenthe tappet of the valve being adjusted is on theheel of the cam, (ie opposite the peak). Turnthe engine until valve No 8 (nearest theflywheel end of the engine) is fully open. Withthe engine in this position, valve No 1 will befully closed and ready to be checked. Onmanual transmission models, the engine canbe turned over quite easily by engaging topgear and moving the car forwards. This shouldonly be done on level ground; and make surethat the car cannot run away! An alternativemethod, and the method that should be usedon automatic transmission models, is to pressthe fan belt midway between the water pumppulley and dynamo or alternator pulley andthen turn the fan blades.

4 A feeler blade of the correct thicknessshould now be inserted between the valvestem and rocker arm. When the clearance iscorrect the feeler blade should be a smoothstiff sliding fit between the valve stem androcker arm. The correct valve clearances aregiven in the Specifications at the start of thisChapter.5 If the feeler blade is a tight or loose fit thenthe clearance must be adjusted. To do this,loosen the locknut of the adjustment stud andscrew the adjuster stud in or out until thefeeler blade can be felt to drag slightly whendrawn from the gap (see illustration).6 Hold the adjuster firmly in this position andtighten the locknut. Recheck the gap oncompletion to ensure that it has not alteredwhen locking the nut and stud.7 Check each valve clearance in turn in thefollowing sequence (which also avoids turning

the crankshaft more than necessary). Thevalves are numbered from the timing chainend of the engine.

Valve fully open Check and adjustValve No 8 Valve No 1Valve No 6 Valve No 3Valve No 4 Valve No 5Valve No 7 Valve No 2Valve No 1 Valve No 8Valve No 3 Valve No 6Valve No 5 Valve No 4Valve No 2 Valve No 7

8 When all the valves have been checked andadjusted, refit the rocker cover using a newgasket and secure with the retaining bolts.Where applicable, remember to fit the ignitionshield brackets with the retaining bolts. Avoidover-tightening the rocker cover bolts.9 Refit the spark plugs, HT leads and ignitionshield.

5 Timing chain, tensioner andsprockets - removal,inspection and refitting

3Removal1 Disconnect the battery negative lead.2 Refer to Chapter 1 and remove the fan belt.3 Refer to Chapter 3 and remove the radiator.4 Undo the bolts securing the fan to the waterpump spindle, and remove the fan.5 On later models, it may be necessary toremove the lower radiator mounting bracketto gain the necessary clearance to allowremoval of the crankshaft pulley. To do this,undo the two nuts and bolts, accessed fromunderneath the wheel arch, securing the left-hand engine mounting to the subframe.Position a jack with interposed block of woodbeneath the engine/transmission and carefullylift the jack until the engine/transmission israised slightly. Undo the nuts and through-bolts securing the mounting bracket to thetransmission, and remove the bracketassembly from the vehicle (see illustration).6 Bend back the locking tab of the crankshaftpulley locking washer under the crankshaftpulley retaining bolt, prising it back with a cold


5.5 Left-hand mounting bracketattachment bolts (arrowed) on later

manual transmission models

4.5 Adjusting the valve clearances

Turning the engine will beeasier if the spark plugs areremoved first - see Chapter 1.


chisel or screwdriver through the radiatorgrille in the wing. Using a suitable socket orspanner remove the bolt and locking washer.This bolt is sometimes very difficult to shift,and hitting the free end of the spanner with aheavy hammer is often the only way to start it.Engage top gear and apply the handbrakehard to prevent the engine from turning.Alternatively, remove the starter motor(Chapter 5A) and lock the flywheel with ascrewdriver or similar tool engaged with thering gear teeth.7 Once the bolt has been slackened, set theengine at TDC for No 1 piston as described inSection 3. 8 Placing two large screwdrivers behind thecrankshaft pulley at 180º to each other,carefully lever the pulley off. It is preferable touse a proper pulley extractor if this isavailable, but large screwdrivers or tyre leversare quite suitable, providing care is taken notto damage the pulley flange.9 Remove the Woodruff key from thecrankshaft nose with a pair of pliers and storeit safely as it is a very small part and can easilybe mislaid.10 Unscrew the bolts holding the timingcover to the block. Note: Four of the bolts arelarger than the others and each bolt makesuse of a large flat washer as well as a springwasher.11 Take off the timing cover and gasket. Iffitted, detach the engine breather hose fromthe cover.

12 With the timing cover removed, slide offthe oil thrower. Note: The concave side facesforward.13 Bend back the locking tab on the washerunder the camshaft retaining nut and unscrewthe nut, noting how the locking washerlocating tag fits in the camshaft sprocketkeyway (see illustration).14 To remove the camshaft and crankshaftsprockets complete with chain, ease eachsprocket forward a little at a time, leveringbehind each one in turn with two largescrewdrivers at 180º to each other. If thesprockets are locked solid, it will benecessary to use a suitable puller. With bothsprockets removed, extract the Woodruffkeys from the crankshaft and camshaft with apair of pliers and store them safely. Note that

there may be a number of very thin packingwashers behind the crankshaft sprocket; if socarefully remove them.15 On later models, unscrew the timing chaintensioner retaining bolt and remove the boltand tensioner. Note that there is a washer oneach side of the tensioner arm.

Inspection16 Thoroughly clean all the components withparaffin or a suitable solvent and drythoroughly. Pay particular attention to thetiming cover and the mating face on theengine front plate, ensuring that all traces ofold gasket are removed. 17 Examine the teeth on both the crankshaftand camshaft sprockets for wear. Each toothforms an inverted “V” with the sprocketperiphery and, if worn, the side of each toothunder tension will be slightly concave in shapewhen compared with the other side of thetooth. If any sign of wear is present thesprockets must be renewed.18 Examine the links of the chain for sideslackness and renew the chain if anyslackness is noticeable when compared witha new chain. It is a sensible precaution torenew the chain at about 60 000 miles, and ata lesser mileage if the engine is dismantled fora major overhaul. The actual rollers on a verybadly worn chain may be slightly grooved.Cooper S type engines use duplex chains.19 Also check the rubber tension rings in thecamshaft sprocket, where fitted. It is quitelikely that the rubber will have become harddue to heat and oil contamination and it isadvisable to renew them as a matter ofcourse. The rings are simply prised out with ascrewdriver and new rings stretched over thesprocket flanges and into the grooves (seeillustration). A spring-loaded rubbertensioning pad may be fitted to the timingcover on Cooper S type and later engines inplace of the tensioning rings. If the rubber padis grooved where it bears against the chain, itshould also be renewed.20 It is advisable to renew the timing coveroil seal at this stage. Drive out the old seal andtap in the new one using the old seal tospread the load. Ensure that the open side ofthe seal faces inward, towards the chain.

RefittingNote: Before reassembly begins check thatthe original packing washers are in place onthe crankshaft nose. If new sprockets arebeing fitted it may be necessary to fitadditional washers (see paragraph 25). Thesewashers ensure that the crankshaft sprocketlines up correctly with the camshaft sprocket.21 Refit the Woodruff keys in their respectiveslots in the crankshaft and camshaft, andensure that they are fully seated. If their edgesare burred they must be cleaned with a finefile.22 Lay the two sprockets on a clean surfaceso that the timing dots are adjacent to eachother. Slip the timing chain over them and pull


2A

5.19 Fitting a new tensioning ring to thecamshaft

5.13 Timing sprocket and chain assembly - later type with tensioner arm

1 Camshaft sprocket2 Crankshaft sprocket3 Timing chain

4 Oil thrower5 Lockwasher6 Nut

7 Tensioner retainingbolt

8 Tensioner

the sprockets back into mesh with the chainso that the timing dots, although further apartare still adjacent to each other (seeillustrations).23 Check that the engine is still positioned atTDC for No 1 piston (Section 3). In thisposition the crankshaft Woodruff key shouldbe at the 12 o’clock position and the camshaftWoodruff key should be at the 2 o’clockposition.24 Fit the timing chain and sprocket assemblyonto the camshaft and crankshaft, keeping thetiming marks adjacent. If the camshaft andcrankshaft have been positioned accurately, itwill be found that the keyways on thesprockets will match the position of the keys,although it may be necessary to rotate thecamshaft a fraction to ensure accurate lining-up of the camshaft sprocket.

25 Press the sprockets into position on thecrankshaft and camshaft as far as they will go.Note: If new sprockets are being fitted theyshould be checked for alignment before beingfinally fitted to the engine. Place the sprocketsin position without the timing chain and placethe straight edge of a steel ruler from the sideof the camshaft gear teeth to the crankshaftsprocket and measure the gap between thesteel rule and the sprocket (see illustration).If a gap exists a suitable number of packingwashers must be placed on the crankshaftnose to bring the crankshaft sprocket onto thesame plane as the camshaft sprocket. 26 Fit the oil thrower to the crankshaft withthe concave side forward.27 Fit the locking washer to the camshaftsprocket with its locating tab in the sprocketkeyway.28 Screw on the camshaft sprocket retainingnut and tighten securely.29 Bend up the locking tab of the lockingwasher to hold the camshaft retaining nutsecurely.30 On engines with a separate timing chaintensioner, refit the tensioner and retaining boltensuring that there is a washer on each sideof the tensioner arm.31 Generously oil the chain and sprockets.32 Apply a bead of RTV sealant to each sideof the new gasket, on the lower half of thegasket only. Place the gasket on the timingcover then quickly position the timing coveron the engine.

33 Screw in the timing cover retaining boltswith the flat washer next to the cover flangeand under the spring washer. Tighten therespective bolts to the specified torque.34 Fit the crankshaft pulley to the nose of thecrankshaft, ensuring that the keyway engageswith the Woodruff key.35 Fit the crankshaft retaining bolt lockingwasher and screw in the crankshaft pulleyretaining bolt. Tighten to the specified torquewhile using the same method to preventcrankshaft rotation as was used for removal.36 Where removed, refit the radiator lowermounting bracket and secure the bracket tothe engine/transmission and subframe.Remove the jack under the engine.37 Refit the fan to the water pump spindleand secure with the four bolts securelytightened.38 Refit the radiator as described in Chapter 3and the fan belt as described in Chapter 1.39 Refit the components removed whensetting the engine at TDC, then reconnect thebattery.

6 Rocker shaft assembly -removal, inspection andrefitting

3General information1 The rocker shaft assembly is secured to thetop of the cylinder head by the cylinder headinner studs and nuts. Although in theory it ispossible to undo the head nuts and remove therocker shaft assembly without removing thehead, in practice, this is not recommended.


5.22a Timing dots on sprockets alignedwith chain fitted

5.22b Timing mark locations relative to keyways

1 Timing dot on camshaft sprocket 2 Timing dot on crankshaft sprocket

5.25 Timing sprocket alignment - double row type shown

1 Camshaft sprocket2 Woodruff key3 Straight edge

4 Crankshaftsprocket

5 Inset: shims

Note that with single row type, it isimportant to align the sides of the teeth andnot the raised hub of the sprocket

Once the nuts have been removed, the headgasket will be disturbed, and the gasket willalmost certainly leak or blow after refitting. Forthis reason, removal of the rocker shaftassembly cannot be done without removingthe cylinder head and renewing the headgasket.

Removal2 Remove the cylinder head as described inSection 7 or 8 as applicable.3 To dismantle the rocker shaft assembly,release the rocker shaft locating screw,remove the split pins, flat washers, and springwashers from each end of the shaft and slidefrom the shaft the pedestals, rocker arms, androcker spacing springs (see illustration).Keep all the components in order and make anote of each component’s correct fittedposition and orientation as it is removed, toensure it is fitted correctly on reassembly.

Inspection4 Check the rocker arms for wear of therocker bushes, for wear at the rocker arm facewhich bears on the valve stem, and for wearof the adjusting ball-ended screws. Wear inthe rocker arm bush can be checked bygripping the rocker arm tip and holding therocker arm in place on the shaft, noting ifthere is any lateral rocker arm shake. If shakeis present, and the arm is very loose on theshaft, remedial action must be taken. Pressedsteel valve rockers cannot be renovated byrenewal of the rocker arm bush. It isnecessary to fit new rocker arms. Forgedrocker arms which have worn bushes may betaken to a Rover dealer or enginereconditioning specialist to have the old bushdrawn out and a new bush fitted. Forgedrockers and pressed steel rockers areinterchangeable in sets of eight, but, whereone or two pressed steel rockers only requirerenewal, it is not advised to replace them withthe forged type.5 Check the tip of the rocker arm where itbears on the valve head for cracking orserious wear on the case hardening. If none ispresent re-use the rocker arm. Check thelower half of the ball on the end of the rockerarm adjusting screw. On high performancemini engines, wear on the ball and top of the

pushrod is easily noted by the unworn “pip”which fits in the small central oil hole on theball. The larger this “pip” the more wear hastaken place to both the ball and the pushrod.Check the pushrods for straightness by rollingthem on the bench. Renew any that are bent.

Refitting6 To reassemble the rocker shaft fit the splitpin, flat washer and spring washer at the rearend of the shaft and then slide on the rockerarms, rocker shaft pedestals, and spacingsprings in the same order in which they wereremoved.7 With the front pedestal in position, screw inthe rocker shaft locating screws and slip thelocating plate into position. Finally, fit to thefront of the shaft the spring washer, plainwasher, and split pin, in that order.8 Refit the cylinder head as described inSection 7 or 8.

7 Cylinder head (carburettorengines) - removal andrefitting

3Note: If working on a pre-1990 engine fittedwith emission control equipment, it will benecessary to first remove the diverter valve, airpump and associated hoses beforeproceeding with the removal sequence.Detailed removal procedures for thesecomponents will be found in Chapter 4C.

Removal1 Disconnect the battery negative lead. Forimproved working clearance, remove thebonnet as described in Chapter 11.2 Drain the cooling system as described inChapter 1.3 Slacken the clips securing the radiator tophose and remove the hose.4 On models fitted with an ignition shield overthe front of the engine, release the threeretaining lugs and lift off the shield.5 Make a note of the electrical connections atthe ignition coil and disconnect them. Nowundo and remove the nut securing the coilbracket to the cylinder head and lift away thecoil.6 Undo and remove the nuts or bolts securing

the radiator upper support bracket to thethermostat housing and radiator. Remove thebracket.7 Refer to Chapter 4A and remove the aircleaner assembly and carburettor(s). 8 Undo and remove the retaining nuts andbolts, and lift off the clamps securing theexhaust front pipe to the manifold. On CooperS models, undo and remove the nuts and flatwashers securing the inlet and exhaustmanifolds to the cylinder head. Lift off the inletmanifold, ease the exhaust manifold back offthe cylinder head studs and tie it securely inthis position.9 Slacken the water pump-to-cylinder headbypass hose retaining clips.10 Slacken the securing clip and remove theheater hose from the heater valve on thecylinder head. Now disconnect the controlcable from the valve.11 Make a note of their positions and thenremove the HT leads from the spark plugs.12 Detach the temperature gauge electricallead from the sender unit.13 Undo the two rocker cover retaining bolts.Lift out the bolts along with the ignition shieldbrackets and lift the rocker cover and gasketaway. Collect the rocker cover retaining boltdished washers from the top of the two rubberseals.14 Slacken the four rocker pedestal nuts andthe nine main cylinder head nuts, half a turn ata time, in the reverse sequence to that shown(see illustration 7.31). On some 1275 ccengines an additional nut and bolt are locatedat the front and rear of the cylinder head, andthese must be released first. When the tensionis released from all the nuts, they may then beremoved, one at a time, from their studs.15 Recover the pedestal plate (where fitted)the lift off the rocker shaft assembly completeand place it to one side (see illustrations). 16 Lift out the pushrods, keeping them inorder according to their respective valves(see illustration).


2A

6.3 Rocker shaft components dismantledfor inspection

7.15a Recover the pedestal plate(where fitted) . . .

7.15b . . . then lift off the rocker shaftassembly

The easiest way to keep thepushrods in order is to pushthem through a sheet ofthick paper or thin card, in

the correct sequence, then numberthem 1 to 8.

17 The cylinder head can now be removedby lifting upwards. If the head is jammed, tryto rock it to break the seal. Under nocircumstances try to prise it apart from theblock with a screwdriver or cold chisel, asdamage may be done to the faces of the heador block. If other methods fail to work, strikethe head sharply with a plastic or woodenheaded hammer, or with a metal hammer withan interposed piece of wood to cushion theblows. Under no circumstances must you hitthe head directly with a metal hammer, as thismay cause the iron casting to fracture.Several sharp taps with the hammer, at thesame time pulling upwards, should free thehead. Lift the head off squarely and place it onone side. 18 If the cylinder head is to be dismantled foroverhaul, refer to Part B of this Chapter. Referto Section 6 if the rocker shaft assembly is tobe dismantled.

Preparation for refitting19 The mating faces of the cylinder head andcylinder block must be perfectly clean beforerefitting the head. Use a metal or hard plasticscraper to remove all traces of gasket andcarbon; also clean the piston crowns. Takeparticular care during the cleaning operations,as the mating faces and piston crowns can be

easily scored. Also, make sure that the carbonis not allowed to enter the oil and waterpassages - this is particularly important for thelubrication system, as carbon could block theoil supply to the engine’s components. Usingadhesive tape and paper, seal the water andoil holes in the cylinder block. To preventcarbon entering the gap between the pistonsand bores, smear a little grease in the gap.After cleaning each piston, use a small brushto remove all traces of grease and carbonfrom the gap, then wipe away the remainderwith a clean rag. Clean all the pistons in thesame way.20 Check the mating surfaces of the cylinderblock and the cylinder head for nicks, deepscratches and other damage. If slight, theymay be removed carefully with a file, but ifexcessive, machining may be the onlyalternative to renewal.21 If warpage of the cylinder head gasketsurface is suspected, use a straight-edge tocheck it for distortion. Refer to Part B of thisChapter if necessary.22 Check the condition of the cylinder headstuds and nuts, and particularly their threads.Wash the nuts in a suitable solvent and wipeclean the studs. Check each for any sign ofvisible wear or damage, renewing any ifnecessary.

Refitting23 After checking that both the cylinder blockand cylinder head mating faces are perfectlyclean, generously lubricate each cylinder withengine oil.24 Always use a new cylinder head gasket asthe old gasket will be compressed and notcapable of giving a good seal. It is also easierat this stage to refit the small bypass hosefrom the water pump to the cylinder head.25 The cylinder head gasket is marked“FRONT” and “TOP” and should be fitted inposition according to the markings (seeillustrations).26 With the gasket in position carefully lowerthe cylinder head onto the cylinder block.Make sure that the bypass hose engages withthe pipe stub on the cylinder head as the headis lowered into place.27 Fit the cylinder head nuts and washersfinger tight to the five cylinder head holding-down studs, which remain outside the rockercover.28 Fit the pushrods in the same order inwhich they were removed. Ensure that theylocate properly in the stems of the tappets,and lubricate the pushrod ends before fitting.29 The rocker shaft assembly can now belowered over its eight locating studs. Takecare that the rocker arms are the right wayround. Lubricate the ball ends of the tappetadjusting screws and insert them in thepushrod cups. Note: Failure to place the ballends in the cups can result in them seating onthe edge of a pushrod or outside it when thehead and rocker assembly is pulled downtight.30 Fit the four rocker pedestal nuts andwashers, and then the four cylinder head studnuts and washers, which also serve to holddown the rocker pedestals. Pull the nuts downevenly, but without tightening them right up.31 When all is in position, the nine cylinderhead nuts and the four rocker pedestal nutscan be tightened down in the order shown(see illustration). Turn the nuts a quarter of aturn at a time and tighten to the specifiedtorqueNote: On 1275 cc engines having anadditional nut and bolt, these should betightened last.


7.16 Remove the pushrods, keeping themin order

7.25a The cylinder head gasket is markedFRONT . . .

7.25b . . . and TOP

7.31 Cylinder head nut tightening sequence

A and B indicate additional bolt and nut on some 1275 cc engines. Reverse this order for slackening

32 Reconnect the wire to the temperaturegauge sender unit.33 Refit the heater hose to the heater valvethen tighten the heater hose and the bypasshose retaining clips.34 Refer to Chapter 4C and reconnect theexhaust front pipe and, on Cooper S models,the inlet and exhaust manifolds.35 Refit the radiator upper support bracket.36 Refit the ignition coil and bracket andreconnect the wiring.37 Refit and secure the radiator top hose.38 Refer to Chapter 4A and refit thecarburettor(s).39 Refer to Section 4 and adjust the valveclearances then refit the rocker cover, HTleads and associated components.40 Reconnect the battery then refill thecooling system as described in Chapter 1. Ifremoved, refit the bonnet, referring toChapter 11 if necessary.

8 Cylinder head (fuel injectionengines) - removal andrefitting

3Note: Observe the precautions in Section 1 ofChapter 4B before working on any componentin the fuel system.

Removal1 Disconnect the battery negative lead. Forimproved working clearance, remove thebonnet as described in Chapter 11.2 Drain the cooling system as described inChapter 1.3 Release the fasteners and remove theignition cover from the front of the engine.4 Refer to Chapter 4B and remove the aircleaner assembly. 5 Chock the rear wheels then jack up thefront of the car and support it on axle stands(see “Jacking and vehicle support”).6 Working from underneath the car, slackenand remove the single bolt securing theexhaust front pipe to its mounting bracket onthe transmission. Undo the three nutssecuring the front pipe to the manifold, thendisconnect it and recover the gasket.7 Trace the wiring back from the exhaustsystem lambda sensor (which is screwed into

the exhaust manifold), releasing it from anyrelevant cable-ties, and disconnect its wiringconnector from the main harness.8 Lower the car to the ground.9 Undo the bolt and remove the retaining clipsecuring the injector housing fuel pipes to thebulkhead.10 Bearing in mind the information containedin Chapter 4B, Section 6 on depressurisingthe fuel system, using an open-endedspanner to retain each adapter, slacken theunion nuts and disconnect the feed and returnpipes from the throttle body assembly. Plugeach pipe and adapter, to minimise the loss offuel and prevent the entry of dirt into thesystem.11 Release the retaining clips and disconnectthe wiring connectors from the injectorhousing, the throttle potentiometer and thestepper motor. Free the wiring from anyrelevant retaining clips, and position it clear ofthe throttle body assembly.12 Slacken the accelerator cable locknuts,and free the outer cable from its mountingbracket. Release the inner cable from thethrottle cam, and position the cable clear ofthe throttle body.13 On automatic transmission models,disconnect the governor control rod from thethrottle body linkage.14 Disconnect the two vacuum hoses fromthe rear of the inlet manifold, noting theircorrect fitted positions; note that the hosesare colour-coded for identification purposes.15 Undo the union bolt securing the brakeservo vacuum hose to the inlet manifold, andrecover the hose union sealing washers.16 Slacken the retaining clips and disconnectthe coolant hoses from the left-hand side ofthe inlet manifold.17 Slacken the clips securing the radiator tophose to the thermostat housing and radiator,and remove the hose.18 Undo the radiator upper mounting bracketretaining bolts, and remove the bracket fromthe side of the cylinder head and radiator.19 Release the retaining clip(s), anddisconnect the two vacuum/breather hosesfrom the left-hand end of the cylinder head,and the single hose from the right-hand end ofthe head (see illustrations).

20 Undo the nut securing the ignition coil tothe front of the cylinder head, then release thecoil from its mounting stud and position itclear of the cylinder head (see illustration).21 Make a note of the correct fitted positionsof the HT leads, and disconnect them fromthe spark plugs.22 Remove the cylinder head assembly asdescribed in paragraphs 13 to 18 of Section 7,noting that it will be necessary to disconnectthe wiring connectors from the PTC heaterand coolant temperature sensor (situated onthe underside of the inlet manifold) as theybecome accessible.

Preparation for refitting23 Refer to Section 7, paragraphs 19 to 22.

Refitting24 Refit the cylinder head as described inSection 7, not forgetting to reconnect the PTCheater and coolant temperature sensor wiringconnectors as the head assembly is loweredinto position on the cylinder block.25 The remainder of the refitting process is adirect reversal of the removal procedure,noting the following points:a) Ensure that all pipes/hoses are correctly

reconnected, and (where necessary) aresecurely held in position by their retainingclips.

c) Tighten all nuts and bolts to the specifiedtorque setting (where given).

d) Position a sealing washer on either side ofthe brake servo vacuum hose union, andtighten the union bolt securely.

e) Refill the cooling system as described inChapter 1

f) On completion, reconnect the battery,and adjust the accelerator cable asdescribed In Chapter 4B.

9 Crankshaft oil seals -renewal 3

Front (timing cover) oil seal1 Remove the timing cover as described inSection 5, paragraphs 1 to 6 and 8 to 11.2 Thoroughly clean the timing cover with


2A

8.19a Disconnect the two vacuum/breather hoses from the left-hand end of

the cylinder head . . .

8.19b . . . and the single hose from theright-hand end

8.20 Remove the nut and release theignition coil bracket

paraffin or a suitable solvent and drythoroughly. Pay particular attention to themating faces of the cover and the engine frontplate, ensuring that all traces of old gasket areremoved.3 Drive out the old seal and tap in the newone using the old seal to spread the load.Ensure that the open side of the seal facesinward, towards the timing chain (seeillustration).4 Refit the timing cover as described inSection 5, paragraphs 32 to 39.

Rear (primary gear) oil seal -manual transmission modelsNote: The majority of clutch faultsexperienced on Mini power units are causedby oil contamination of the clutch frictionlinings due to the failure of the primary gear oilseal. It is therefore recommended that the sealis renewed whenever problems of this natureare encountered. Note that Rover special tools18G1068B and 18G1043 will be required forthis operation.5 Remove the flywheel and clutch assemblyas described in Chapter 6.6 The primary gear complete with oil seal cannow be withdrawn from the crankshaft andflywheel housing as described below.7 Lift off the C-shaped thrustwasher andbacking ring that retain the primary gear inposition.8 Now screw in the threaded centre bolt ofspecial tool 18G1068B until the base of thetool abuts the oil seal. Pull the primary gearoutwards as far as it will go and slide the twocollets of 18G1068B between the groove atthe rear of the primary gear splines and thebase of the tool body.9 Now slowly unscrew the threaded centrebolt of the tool while holding the tool body.This will cause the primary gear to bewithdrawn from the flywheel housing, bringingthe oil seal with it.10 When the primary gear and oil seal areclear of the housing, lift them off the end ofthe crankshaft, remove the tool and slide theoil seal off the primary gear.11 To fit a new oil seal first slide the primarygear onto the crankshaft and secure with theC-shaped washer and backing ring.12 To avoid damage to the oil seal as it isfitted, place the protective sleeve, special tool18G1043, over the primary gear, or if this toolis not available cover the primary gear splinesand the stepped shoulder with masking tape.13 Lubricate the lip of the oil seal, and verycarefully slide it over the primary gear and intoposition against the flywheel housing. Theopen part of the seal must be facing towardsthe engine.14 Screw on the threaded centre bolt ofspecial tool 18G1068B and, when the body ofthe tool contacts the seal, fully tighten thecentre bolt, thus forcing the seal squarely intothe housing. Remove the tool when the faceof the seal is flush with the housing.15 The flywheel and clutch assembly cannow be refitted as described in Chapter 6.

Rear (torque converter outputgear) oil seal - automatictransmission modelsNote: Rover special tools 18G1068B and18G1098 should ideally be obtained for thisoperation.16 Remove the torque converter asdescribed in Section 11.17 Note the fitted depth of the oil seal in theconverter housing so that the new seal maybe fitted in the same position.18 Using a hooked instrument, or alternativelyRover special tool 18G1087, extract the oilseal from the converter housing.19 To protect the lips of the new seal as it isfitted, wrap adhesive tape around theconverter output gear splines or preferablyuse Rover special tool 18G1098.20 Using a suitable length of tubing orpreferably Rover special tool 18G1068B, installthe oil seal into the housing to the sameposition as noted during removal. Note that ifthe seal is not positioned correctly it may coveran important oil drain hole in the housing.21 The torque converter can now be refittedas described in Section 11.

10 Flywheel (manualtransmission models) -removal and refitting

3The flywheel on all manual transmission

models is removed complete with the clutchassembly, the components then beingseparated after removal. Full details of clutchand flywheel removal and refitting arecontained in Chapter 6.

11 Torque converter (automatictransmission models) -removal and refitting

3RemovalNote: Rover special tool special tool 18G1086will be required to release the torqueconverter from the crankshaft.1 Chock the rear wheels then jack up thefront of the car and support it on axle stands(see “Jacking and vehicle support”).

2 Disconnect the battery negative lead. Ifgreater working clearance is required, removethe bonnet as described in Chapter 11.3 Remove the front grille as described inChapter 11.4 Detach the heater air duct from the air inletunder the right-hand front wing. Remove theair inlet from the inner wing panel.5 Remove the starter motor as described inChapter 5A.6 On fuel injection models carry out thefollowing:a) Remove the air cleaner assembly, the

engine management ECU and thecrankshaft sensor as described in Chapter4B.

b) Disconnect the oil separator breatherhose from the right-hand end of thecylinder head, then undo the two boltssecuring the separator to the torqueconverter housing. Remove the separatorand hose assembly from the engine,along with its gasket.

c) Slacken and remove the screw, situatedjust to the right of the brake servo unit,securing the earth leads to the bulkhead.

d) Undo the bolts securing the wiringharness retaining clip and starter motorlead brackets to the converter housing,then position the wiring clear of theengine.

7 On early models, undo and remove thescrews securing the starter solenoid to theinner wing panel. Lift off the solenoid andposition it out of the way. 8 If the ignition coil is mounted on the flywheelhousing, or on a bracket secured to one of thecylinder head studs, remove the coil andmounting bracket and position it well clear.9 On later Mini 850 and 1000 models, removethe horn and place it to one side.10 Undo and remove the two bolts securingthe engine tie-bar and bracket to the side ofthe cylinder block. Note that on later modelsone of the bolts also retains the engine earthstrap.11 Undo and remove the nuts and/or boltssecuring the radiator upper support bracket tothe radiator and thermostat housing.Withdraw the bracket. Note: It is notnecessary to remove the support bracket if alarge clearance exists between the radiatorand left-hand inner wing panel, as is the caseon later Mini 850 and 1000 models. 12 Place a jack beneath the torque converterhousing end of the transmission casing andjust take the weight of the power unit. Use ablock of wood interposed between the casingand the jack to spread the load.13 From beneath the car undo and removethe two nuts and bolts securing the right-handengine mounting to the subframe sidemembers. The best way to do this is toengage the help of an assistant to hold thebolts from above while the nuts are undonefrom below. The bolt heads are tucked awaybeneath the converter housing and can onlybe reached with a small open-ended spanner.


9.3 Timing cover oil seal must be fittedwith the open side towards the chain

14 Having released the mounting, jack up thepower unit sufficiently to enable the nine boltssecuring the converter housing cover to beremoved. Note that on early models one ofthe front bolts also retains the engine earthstrap. On all models the rear bolts are quiteinaccessible, requiring a good deal ofpatience and a short spanner.15 When all the bolts are undone, lift off theconverter housing cover.16 Knock back the locktabs, and undo andremove three equally spaced bolts from thecentre of the converter. Leave the other threebolts in position.17 Knock back the lockwasher securing thelarge converter centre retaining bolt. Using alarge socket and bar, undo and remove thetorque converter centre bolt and withdraw thedriving collar. Use a screwdriver insertedthrough the hole in the top of the converterhousing and engaged with the ring gear teethto prevent the torque converter from turning.18 Rotate the crankshaft until the timingmarks on the converter periphery are atapproximately the 3 o’clock position.19 The torque converter is a taper fit on theend of the crankshaft and it will be necessaryto obtain Rover special tool 18G1086 toremove it. The tool is bolted to the torqueconverter through the holes of the threepreviously removed converter retaining bolts.With the adapter in position on the end of thecrankshaft, tighten the tool centre bolt untilthe torque converter breaks free of the taper,and then lift it off the crankshaft.

Refitting20 Set the engine with No 1 piston at TDC oncompression as described in Section 3.21 Before fitting the torque converter, it will befirst necessary to refit the three central boltsremoved to allow the special converter removaltool to be used during dismantling. Thenremove each pair of bolts in turn from theconverter centre and fit new locking plates.Tighten the six bolts to the specified torquewrench setting and bend over the lock tabs. Onno account remove all six bolts at any one time.22 Slide the torque converter onto the end ofthe crankshaft, with the timing marksuppermost. Refit the driving collar, a newlockwasher and the retaining bolt. Tighten theretaining bolt to the specified torque thenknock back the lockwasher.23 The remainder of refitting is the reversesequence to removal.

12 Engine/transmissionmountings - renewal 3

General information1 The engine/transmission is supported ontwo rubber mountings which are in turn boltedto the sides of the front subframe. Onemounting is located under the radiator (left-

hand mounting), and the other at the base ofthe flywheel or torque converter housing cover,to which it is attached (right-hand mounting).Fore-and-aft movement of the power unit iscontrolled by a tie-bar, one end of which isattached to the engine, and the other to abracket on the bulkhead. Rubber bushes areused at each end to absorb vibration. On latermodels an additional lower tie-bar is used, oneend of which is bolted to the subframe and theother to a bracket on the transmission. A pointworth noting is that the engine tie-bar rubberbushes are prone to wear and this is usuallynoticed as severe judder as the clutch isengaged on manual transmission models, orexcessive movement of the complete powerunit when accelerating and decelerating.

Right-hand mounting renewal2 Chock the rear wheels then jack up thefront of the car and support it on axle stands(see “Jacking and vehicle support”).3 Disconnect the battery negative lead. Ifgreater working clearance is required, removethe bonnet as described in Chapter 11.4 Remove the front grille, referring to Chap-ter 11 if necessary.5 Detach the heater air duct from the air inletunder the right-hand front wing. Remove theair inlet from the inner wing panel.6 Remove the starter motor as described inChapter 5A.7 On fuel injection models carry out thefollowing:a) Remove the air cleaner assembly, the

engine management ECU and thecrankshaft sensor as described in Chapter4B.

b) Disconnect the oil separator breatherhose from the right-hand end of thecylinder head, then undo the two boltssecuring the separator to theflywheel/torque converter housing.Remove the separator and hose assemblyfrom the engine, along with its gasket.

c) Slacken and remove the screw, situatedjust to the right of the brake servo unit,securing the earth leads to the bulkhead.

d) Undo the bolts securing the wiringharness retaining clip and starter motorlead brackets to the flywheel/converterhousing, then position the wiring clear ofthe engine.

8 On early models, undo and remove thescrews securing the starter solenoid to theinner wing panel. Lift off the solenoid andposition it out of the way. 9 If the ignition coil is mounted on theflywheel/converter housing, or on a bracketsecured to one of the cylinder head studs,remove the coil and mounting bracket andposition it well clear.10 On manual transmission models, detachthe clutch slave cylinder mounting plate fromthe flywheel housing, taking care to retain thespacer. Withdraw the cylinder from thepushrod and place the cylinder and mountingplate to one side.11 On later Mini 850 and 1000 models,remove the horn and place it to one side.12 Undo and remove the two bolts securingthe engine tie-bar and bracket to the side ofthe cylinder block. Note that on later modelsone of the bolts also retains the engine earthstrap.13 Undo and remove the nuts and/or boltssecuring the radiator upper support bracket tothe radiator and thermostat housing.Withdraw the bracket. Note: It is notnecessary to remove the support bracket if alarge clearance exists between the radiatorand left-hand inner wing panel, as is the caseon later Mini 850 and 1000 models. 14 Place a jack beneath the flywheel/torqueconverter housing end of the transmissioncasing and just take the weight of the powerunit. Use a block of wood interposed betweenthe casing and the jack to spread the load.15 From beneath the car undo and removethe two nuts and bolts securing the right-handengine mounting to the subframe sidemembers (see illustration). The best way todo this is to engage the help of an assistant tohold the bolts from above while the nuts areundone from below. The bolt heads aretucked away and can only be reached with asmall open-ended spanner.16 Having released the mounting, jack up thepower unit sufficiently to enable the nine boltssecuring the flywheel/converter housing coverto be removed. Note that on early models oneof the front bolts also retains the engine earthstrap. On all models the rear bolts are quiteinaccessible, requiring a good deal ofpatience and a short spanner.17 When all the bolts are undone, lift off theflywheel/converter housing cover.18 With the cover removed, undo the boltssecuring the engine mounting and lift off themounting.19 Refitting is the reverse sequence toremoval.

Left-hand mounting renewal20 Remove the radiator as described inChapter 3.21 Position a jack beneath the left-hand sideof the transmission casing, and, using a blockof wood to spread the load, just take theweight of the power unit.


2A

12.15 Right-hand engine mounting-to-subframe retaining nuts

22 Undo and remove the two nuts, bolt andspring washers securing the mounting to thesubframe.23 Raise the jack slightly and remove thebolts securing the mounting to the bracket onthe transmission casing. The engine mountingcan now be withdrawn.24 Refitting is the reverse sequence toremoval.

Upper tie-bar and bushes renewal25 Undo and remove the two bolts securingthe tie-bar and mounting bracket to the right-hand side of the engine (see illustration).Move the tie-bar sideways and recover anyspacing washers that may be fitted.26 If the tie-bar is secured to its mountingbracket on the bulkhead by a through-boltand locknut, remove the locknut and bolt andlift away the tie-bar.27 If the tie-bar is secured by a stud withnuts and spring washers at each end, undo

and remove the nuts and spring washers, thenslacken the four nuts securing the clutch andbrake master cylinder to the bulkhead. Whensufficient clearance exists, lift up the tie-barupper mounting bracket over the tie-bar stud,and withdraw the tie-bar.28 With the tie-bar removed, slide out therubber bushes and spacers and, if there is anysign of swelling or deterioration of the rubberwhatsoever, renew the bushes.29 Refitting is the reverse sequence toremoval.

Lower tie-bar and bushesrenewal30 The lower tie-bar fitted to later modelsmay be mounted in one of two positions;either bolted to a bracket on the left-hand sideof the transmission at one end and to the rearof the subframe at the other, or bolted to abracket on the right-hand side of thetransmission at one end and to the front of the

subframe at the other. The renewal procedureis the same for both types (see illustration).31 Chock the rear wheels then jack up thefront of the car and support it on axle stands(see “Jacking and vehicle support”). 32 Undo and remove the bolts securing thetie-bar to the transmission bracket andsubframe, and withdraw the tie-bar.33 To remove the bushes it will be necessaryto draw them out using a tube of suitablediameter, a long bolt and nut, and packingwashers. The new bushes are refitted in thesame way but lubricate them with liquiddetergent before fitting.34 Refitting is the reverse sequence toremoval.

13 Distributor driveshaft -removal and refitting 1

Removal1 Set the engine with No 1 cylinder at TDC oncompression as described in Section 3.2 Remove the distributor as described inChapter 5B.3 Where a distributor base housing is fitted tothe cylinder block, unscrew the single retainingbolt and lockwasher and remove the housing.4 Look down into the distributor aperture andobserve the position of the slot in thedistributor driveshaft. With No 1 piston atTDC, the slot should be positioned as shownaccording to engine type (carburettor enginesor fuel injection engines) (see illustrations).


12.30 Lower engine tie-bar attachments12.25 Removing the engine upper tie-barfrom the cylinder block

13.4a Distributor driveshaft components and fitting details -carburettor engines

Inset A shows the position of the slot ready for fittingInset B shows the shaft correctly installed

1 Driveshaft2 Housing3 Retaining screw

4 5⁄16 in UNF bolt (for removaland refitting of driveshaft)

13.4b Distributor driveshaft fitting details - fuel-injection models

A Drive slot position prior to engagement with skew gearB Correct drive slot position with shaft correctly installed

There is a degree of conflicting informationfrom the manufacturer as to the correctposition of this slot on later engines. As ageneral rule, when refitting the driveshaft, setthe slot in the same position it was in prior toremoval. If there is any doubt about theoriginal position, set it as shown in theillustrations when refitting.5 Screw into the end of the distributordriveshaft a 5⁄16 in UNF bolt. A tappet cover bolt(where fitted) is ideal for this purpose. Thedriveshaft can then be lifted out, the shaftbeing turned slightly in the process to free theshaft skew gear from the camshaft skew gear(see illustration).

Refitting6 With the engine still positioned with No1piston at TDC, hold the driveshaft so that itsslot is in the correct position for refitting asshown in the accompanying illustrations, ie sothat its larger segment is uppermost (offsetslot towards the bottom). Engage thedriveshaft gear with the camshaft skew gear,and push the drive fully into position. As thegear engages, the driveshaft will rotate anti-clockwise to the final, correct fitted position. Ifnecessary, withdraw the driveshaft again andadjust its position as necessary until this is so.7 Remove the bolt from the driveshaft.

8 Where applicable, refit the distributor basehousing using a new O-ring and lock it inposition with the single bolt and lockwasher.9 The distributor can now be refitted asdescribed in Chapter 5B.

14 Oil pressure relief valve -removal, inspection andrefitting

1Removal1 To prevent excessive oil pressure - forexample when the engine is cold - an oilpressure relief valve is built into the right-handside of the engine just below the oil deliverypipe union.2 The relief valve is identified externally by alarge domed hexagon nut. To remove the unitunscrew the nut and remove it, complete withthe two fibre or copper sealing washers. Therelief spring and the relief spring cup can thenbe easily extracted (see illustration).

Inspection3 In position, the metal cup fits over theopposite end of the relief valve spring restingin the dome of the hexagon nut, and bearsagainst a machining in the block. When the oil

pressure exceeds the specified pressure thecup is forced off its seat and the oil returns,via a drilling, directly to the sump.4 Check the tension of the spring bymeasuring its free length. If it is shorter thanthe length shown in the Specifications itshould be renewed. Check the condition ofthe cup checking carefully for wear ridgeswhich would prevent the cup seatingeffectively. Renew the cup if its condition issuspect.

Refitting5 Refitting is the reverse sequence toremoval.

15 Oil filter housing and deliverypipe - removal and refitting 1

Removal1 Drain the engine/transmission oil andremove the oil filter as described in Chapter 1.2 On manual transmission models, Unscrewthe banjo union bolt securing the delivery pipeto the cylinder block. Note that on later 1275 ccengines a tube nut and olive type fitting is usedinstead of the banjo union. At the other end ofthe pipe unscrew the nut securing the pipe tothe oil filter housing (see illustrations). Liftaway the pipe and collect the two copperwashers at the banjo union, or the rubber sealsat the tube nut connections, according to type.be prepared for oil spillage.3 On manual transmission models, unscrewthe two nuts and slide the oil filter housing offthe cylinder block studs. Recover the gasket.4 On automatic transmission models, undothe two bolts and remove the filter housingfrom the top of the transmission casingflange. Recover the gasket.5 Thoroughly clean the components andremove all traces of gasket from the matingsurfaces.


2A

15.2a Oil feed pipe banjo union at theengine . . .

15.2b . . . and pipe nut attachment at thefilter housing

13.5 Using a 5⁄16 in UNF bolt to remove the distributor driveshaft 14.2 Removing the oil pressure relief valve

6 If oil leakage from the pipe unions on later1275 cc (12A) engines has been experienced,a modified pipe and tube nut assembly isavailable. Consult a Rover dealer for furtherinformation on this modification.

Refitting7 Refitting is the reverse sequence toremoval, bearing in mind the following points:a) Use a new filter housing gasket and new

copper washers at the banjo union.b) When refitting the delivery pipe with banjo

union fitting, engage the threads of theunion nut at the filter housing first, then fitthe banjo union with a copper washer oneach side of the union head. Tighten thefittings securely.

16 Oil cooler - removal andrefitting 1

Removal1 Disconnect the battery negative lead.2 Remove the front grille as described inChapter 11.3 Place a suitable container below the oilcooler. On Cooper S models, unscrew the twohose unions from the top of the oil cooler andmove the hoses clear. On 1990-on 1275 ccengines, unscrew the banjo union bolt on thetop of the oil cooler and recover the two

sealing washers. On all models, cover thedisconnected unions with tape to prevententry of dust and dirt.4 Unscrew the mounting bolts and withdrawthe oil cooler. On 1990-on 1275 cc engines,unscrew the lower banjo union bolt whensufficient clearance exists and recover the twosealing washers.

Refitting5 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but top-upthe engine oil level as necessary (see “WeeklyChecks”).


2B

Chapter 2 Part B:Engine removal and overhaul procedures

Engine generalEngine codes:

85H . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 848 cc engines99H . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 998 cc engines10H . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1098 cc engines12H . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1275 cc engines12A . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1275 cc engines

ValvesValve head diameter:

Inlet:85H . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27.76 to 27.89 mm10H . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29.23 to 29.36 mm12H:

1275 GT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33.20 to 33.32 mmCooper S Mk III . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35.58 to 35.71 mm

12A . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35.58 to 35.71 mmExhaust:

85H, 99H and 10H . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25.40 to 25.53 mm12H:


12A . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29.25 to 29.38 mmValve stem diameter:

Inlet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.094 to 7.107 mmExhaust . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.082 to 7.094 mm

Valve stem-to-guide clearance:Inlet:

85H, 99H and 10H . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.038 to 0.064 mm12H and 12A . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.040 to 0.080 mm

Exhaust:85H, 99H and 10H . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.051 to 0.076 mm12H and 12A . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.040 to 0.080 mm

Valve seat angle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45º

Camshaft and tappets - removal, inspection and refitting . . . . . . . . 9Crankshaft - refitting and running clearance check . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17Crankshaft - removal and inspection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12Cylinder block/crankcase - cleaning and inspection . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13Cylinder head - dismantling, cleaning, inspection and reassembly . 8Engine - initial start-up after overhaul and reassembly . . . . . . . . . . . 19Engine and automatic transmission - separation and reconnection . 6Engine and manual transmission - separation and reconnection . . . 5Engine overhaul - preliminary information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7Engine overhaul - reassembly sequence . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15Engine/transmission - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3

Engine/transmission removal - preparation and precautions . . . . . . 2Engine/transmission (with front subframe) - removal and refitting . . 4General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1Main and big-end bearings - inspection and selection . . . . . . . . . . . 14Oil pump - removal, inspection and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10Piston/connecting rod assemblies - refitting and big-end bearing

clearance check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18Piston/connecting rod assemblies - removal, inspection, separation

and reconnection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11Piston rings - refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16

2B•1

Specifications

Contents







54321

Valve springsValve spring free length:

85H and 99H . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44.45 mm10H . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49.70 mm12H:

1275 GT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49.70 mmCooper S Mk III outer spring . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44.19 mmCooper S Mk III Inner spring . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43.31 mm

12A . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49.53 mm

Camshaft and camshaft bearingsCamshaft journal diameter:

Front . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42.304 to 42.316 mmCentre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41.218 to 41.231 mmRear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34.857 to 34.887 mm

Bearing inside diameter (reamed after fitting):85H:

Front . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42.342 to 42.355 mmCentre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41.262 to 41.288 mmRear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34.908 to 34.938 mm

99H and 10H:Front . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42.342 to 42.355 mmCentre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41.225 to 41.267 mmRear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34.912 to 34.925 mm

12H and 12A:Front . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42.342 to 42.355 mmCentre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41.262 to 41.288 mmRear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34.908 to 34.938 mm

Bearing running clearance:85H:

Front . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.012 to 0.051 mmCentre and rear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.031 to 0.069 mm

All other engines:Front, centre and rear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.025 to 0.051 mm

Camshaft endfloat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.076 to 0.178 mm

Cylinder blockBore diameter:

85H . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 62.94 mm99H . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64.59 mm10H . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64.59 mm12H and 12A . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70.61 mm

Maximum cylinder bore oversize (after reboring):85H and 99H . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . +1.02 mmAll other engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . +0.51 mm

Maximum cylinder bore/liner taper* . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.10 mmMaximum cylinder bore/liner ovality* . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.10 mm*These are suggested figures, typical for this type of engine - no exact values are stated by Rover.

PistonsPiston-to-bore clearance:

85H:Top of skirt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.066 to 0.81 mmBottom of skirt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.015 to 0.030 mm

99H and 10H:Top of skirt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.060 to 0.085 mmBottom of skirt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.010 to 0.026 mm

12H:Top of skirt:


Bottom of skirt:1275 GT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.031 to 0.056 mmCooper S Mk III . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.048 to 0.063 mm

12A:Top of skirt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.074 to 0.114 mmBottom of skirt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.023 to 0.064 mm

Piston oversizes available:85H and 99H . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . +0.254 mm, +0.508 mm, +0.762 mm, +1.02 mmAll other engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . +0.254 mm, +0.508 mm,

2B•2 Engine removal and overhaul procedures

Piston ringsPiston ring end gap:

85H and 99H . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.178 to 0.305 mm10H:

Compression rings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.178 to 0.305 mmOil control ring:

Rails . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.305 to 0.711 mmSide springs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.54 to 3.81 mm

12H:Top compression ring:


2nd and 3rd compression rings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.20 to 0.33 mmOil control ring:


12A:Top compression ring . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.25 to 0.45 mmSecond compression ring . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.20 to 0.33 mmOil control ring . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.38 to 1.04 mm

Ring-to-groove clearance (compression rings) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.038 to 0.089 mm

CrankshaftMain bearing journal diameter:

85H, 99H* and 10H . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44.46 to 44.47 mm12H:

1275 GT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50.83 to 50.84 mmCooper S Mk III . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50.81 to 50.82 mm

12A:No colour code . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50.83 to 50.84 mmRed colour code . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50.81 to 50.82 mmGreen colour code . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50.82 to 50.83 mmYellow colour code . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50.83 to 50.84 mm

Minimum main bearing journal regrind diameter:85H, 99H* and 10H . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43.45 mm12H:

1275 GT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49.78 mmCooper S Mk III . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50.30 mm

12A . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50.32 mmMain bearing running clearance:

85H, 99H* and 10H . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.025 to 0.068 mm12H and 12A . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.017 to 0.058 mm

Big-end bearing journal diameter:85H, 99H* and 10H . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41.28 to 41.29 mm12H and 12A . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44.44 to 44.46 mm

Minimum big-end journal regrind diameter:85H, 99H* and 10H . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40.27 mm12H . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43.44 mm12A . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43.93 mm

Big-end bearing running clearance:85H, 99H* and 10H . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.025 to 0.063 mm12H and 12A . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.038 to 0.081 mm

Crankshaft endfloat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.051 to 0.076 mm*Refer to a Rover dealer for information on later models

Lubrication systemOil pump shaft and rotor endfloat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.127 mmOil pump rotor lobe clearance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.152 mmOil pump rotor-to-body clearance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.254 mmOil pump relief pressure . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.2 barsOil pressure:

Running . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.2 barsIdling . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.0 bar

Pressure relief valve spring:Free length . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72.63 mmFitted length . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54.77 mm

Engine removal and overhaul procedures 2B•3

2B

Torque wrench settings Nm lbf ftConnecting rod big-end:

Bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 37Nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 33

Flywheel centre bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 152 112Flywheel housing nuts and bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18Transmission casing to engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 6Converter centre bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 152 112Converter (six central bolts) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29 21Converter housing nuts and bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18Gudgeon pin clamp bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32 24Main bearing bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85 63Timing cover and front plate:

1⁄4 in UNF bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 55⁄16 in UNF bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 12

Oil pump bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11 8Oil filter housing nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19 14Oil pipe banjo union . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52 38Oil pressure relief valve nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59 43Tappet side covers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.7 3.5



Included in this Part of Chapter 2 are detailsof removing the engine/transmission from thecar and general overhaul procedures for thecylinder head, cylinder block and all otherengine internal components.

The information given ranges from adviceconcerning preparation for an overhaul andthe purchase of replacement parts, to detailedstep-by-step procedures covering removal,inspection, renovation and refitting of engineinternal components.

After Section 7, all instructions are basedon the assumption that the engine has beenremoved from the car. For informationconcerning engine in-car repair, as well as theremoval and refitting of those externalcomponents necessary for full overhaul, referto Part A of this Chapter and to Section 7.Ignore any preliminary dismantling operationsdescribed in Part A that are no longer relevantonce the engine has been removed from thecar.

2 Engine/transmissionremoval - preparation andprecautions

If you have decided that an engine must beremoved for overhaul or major repair work,several preliminary steps should be taken.

Locating a suitable place to work isextremely important. Adequate work space,along with storage space for the car, will beneeded. If a workshop or garage is notavailable, at the very least, a flat, level, cleanwork surface is required.

If possible, clear some shelving close to thework area and use it to store the enginecomponents and ancillaries as they areremoved and dismantled. In this manner the

components stand a better chance of stayingclean and undamaged during the overhaul.Laying out components in groups togetherwith their fixing bolts, screws etc will savetime and avoid confusion when the engine isrefitted.

Clean the engine compartment andengine/transmission before beginning theremoval procedure; this will help visibility andhelp to keep tools clean.

The help of an assistant should beavailable; there are certain instances whenone person cannot safely perform all of theoperations required to remove the enginefrom the vehicle. Safety is of primaryimportance, considering the potential hazardsinvolved in this kind of operation. A secondperson should always be in attendance tooffer help in an emergency. If this is the firsttime you have removed an engine, advice andaid from someone more experienced wouldalso be beneficial.

Plan the operation ahead of time. Beforestarting work, obtain (or arrange for the hireof) all of the tools and equipment you willneed. Access to the following items will allowthe task of removing and refitting theengine/transmission to be completed safelyand with relative ease: an engine hoist - ratedin excess of the combined weight of theengine/transmission, a heavy-duty trolleyjack, complete sets of spanners and socketsas described at the rear this manual, woodenblocks, and plenty of rags and cleaningsolvent for mopping up spilled oil, coolant andfuel. A selection of different sized plasticstorage bins will also prove useful for keepingdismantled components grouped together. Ifany of the equipment must be hired, makesure that you arrange for it in advance, andperform all of the operations possible withoutit beforehand; this may save you time andmoney.

Plan on the vehicle being out of use forquite a while, especially if you intend to carryout an engine overhaul. Read through the

whole of this Section and work out a strategybased on your own experience and the tools,time and workspace available to you. Some ofthe overhaul processes may have to becarried out by a Rover dealer or anengineering works - these establishmentsoften have busy schedules, so it would beprudent to consult them before removing ordismantling the engine, to get an idea of theamount of time required to carry out the work.

When removing the engine from the vehicle,be methodical about the disconnection ofexternal components. Labelling cables andhoses as they removed will greatly assist therefitting process.

Always be extremely careful when lifting theengine/transmission assembly from theengine bay. Serious injury can result fromcareless actions. If help is required, it is betterto wait until it is available rather than riskpersonal injury and/or damage to componentsby continuing alone. By planning ahead andtaking your time, a job of this nature, althoughmajor, can be accomplished successfully andwithout incident.

There are two methods of engine removal.The engine can be removed from under thecar, complete with subframe, or the enginecan be lifted out through the bonnet aperture.In either instance the engine is removedcomplete with the transmission, and also theradiator.

It is easier to lift the engine/transmissionassembly out of the engine compartment withthe aid of a suitable hoist than to separate thesubframe from the body, and lift the body up,using the rear wheels as a pivot. This isespecially so with Hydrolastic models. Thesubframe comprises the frame itself, thewheels, brakes, driveshafts, hubs, andsuspension, complete except for shockabsorbers.

In either case, it is necessary to raise andsupport the front of the car so that it can beworked on from underneath.

3 Engine/transmission -removal and refitting 3

Removal1 Disconnect the battery negative lead.2 Drain the cooling system and theengine/transmission oil as described inChapter 1.3 Remove the bonnet and front grille asdescribed in Chapter 11.4 On models equipped with an ignition shieldmounted on the front of the engine, releasethe three retaining lugs and lift off the shield.5 On carburettor engines, refer to Chapter 4Aand remove the air cleaner assembly andcarburettor(s). On fuel injection engines,slacken the accelerator cable locknuts, andfree the outer cable from its mounting bracket.Release the inner cable from the throttle cam,and position the cable clear of the throttlebody.6 On fuel injection engines, remove theengine management ECU as described inChapter 4B.7 Remove the starter motor and alternator asdescribed in Chapter 5A.8 Where applicable, undo and remove thescrews securing the starter solenoid to theinner wing panel and position the solenoidclear of the engine.9 On models equipped with a mechanical fuelpump, disconnect the fuel inlet hose and plugit with a suitable bolt or metal rod to preventloss of fuel.10 On fuel injection engines, undo the boltand remove the retaining clip securing theinjector housing fuel pipes to the bulkhead.Bearing in mind the information contained inChapter 4B, Section 6, concerningdepressurisation of the fuel system, using anopen-ended spanner to retain each adapter,slacken the union nuts and disconnect thefeed and return pipes from the throttle bodyassembly. Plug each pipe and adapter, tominimise the loss of fuel and prevent the entryof dirt into the system.11 Where applicable, disconnect the coolingsystem hose from the expansion tank, whichis located by the side of the radiator. Undo theretaining bolt and remove the expansion tankfrom the engine compartment.12 On carburettor engines, slacken theretaining clips and remove the two heaterhoses. Also slacken the two securing screwsand withdraw the heater control cable fromthe valve on the cylinder head (whereapplicable). On fuel injection engines, Undothe heater control coolant valve mountingbolt, then slacken the retaining clips anddisconnect the coolant valve hoses from themanifold and thermostat housing. Slacken theclip and disconnect the heater unit hose fromits union with the bottom radiator hose(situated directly below the coolant valve).13 If a fresh air heater/demister blower motor

is mounted in the engine compartment,remove this unit as described in Chapter 3.14 Undo and remove the two nuts and boltson the clamp, or the three flange nutssecuring the exhaust front pipe to themanifold. Separate the front pipe from themanifold. Note: On Cooper S models it will benecessary to remove the complete exhaustsystem as described in Chapter 4C.15 If the horn is mounted on the front bodypanel, disconnect the electrical leads, undoand remove the mounting bolts and withdrawthe horn.16 From beneath the right-hand front wingdetach the heater fresh air ducting from the airinlet. Now withdraw the air inlet from the innerwing panel.17 Disconnect the wiring from the followinglocations, after identifying the leads or wiringplugs for subsequent reconnection:a) Leads to the temperature gauge

transmitter and oil pressure switch (wherefitted).

b) LT leads at the ignition coil.c) HT leads from the spark plugs and

ignition coil, and the crankshaft sensorwiring connector on fuel injectionengines.

d) On fuel injection engines, disconnect thewiring connectors from the injectorhousing, the throttle potentiometer andthe stepper motor. Free the wiring fromany relevant retaining clips, and position itclear of the throttle body assembly. Tracethe wiring back from the exhaust systemlambda sensor (which is screwed into theexhaust manifold), releasing it from anyrelevant cable-ties, and disconnect itswiring connector from the main harness.

e) Wiring connectors from the auxiliarycooling fan switch (where fitted), which issituated at the front bottom corner of theradiator.

18 Spring back the distributor cap retainingclips, or undo the two screws and remove thecap and leads. Remove the rotor arm from thedistributor shaft.19 On manual transmission models, releasethe clutch slave cylinder return spring from theclutch operating lever. Undo and remove thetwo securing bolts and lift the slave cylinderoff the flywheel housing. Tie the cylinder outof the way from a convenient place on theengine bulkhead.20 If an oil pressure gauge is fitted, slackenthe clamp screw and pull the rubber hose offthe feed pipe at the rear of the engine.21 On fuel injection engines, release theretaining clip and disconnect the vacuumhose from the pipe situated just behind thethermostat housing. Disconnect the twovacuum hoses from the rear of the inletmanifold, noting their correct fitted positions;note that the hoses are colour-coded foridentification purposes.22 On later models, disconnect the oilseparator breather hose from the right-handend of the cylinder head. Undo the two bolts

securing the separator to the flywheel housing,and remove the separator and hose assemblyfrom the engine, along with its gasket.23 Undo and remove the bolt securing theengine tie-bar to the side of the cylinderblock. Slacken the tie-bar bulkhead mountingand move the bar back out of the way. Notethat on later models the tie-bar retaining boltalso retains the engine earth strap.24 Where fitted, remove the oil cooler asdescribed in Part A of this Chapter.25 On models fitted with a vacuum servo unitmounted in the engine compartment, refer toChapter 9 and remove the servo and brakemaster cylinder. Unscrew the two union nutssecuring the master cylinder brake pipes tothe pressure-reducing valve, and remove boththe pipes, noting their correct fitted positions.Plug the pressure reducing valve ports, tominimise fluid loss and prevent the entry ofdirt into the system.26 Working under the front wheel arch undoand remove the screw securing the uppersuspension arm rebound rubber to thesubframe and withdraw the rubber. Place asolid wooden wedge of approximately thesame thickness in its place. Repeat thisprocedure on the other side of the car.27 Chock the rear wheels then jack up thefront of the car and support it on axle stands(see “Jacking and vehicle support”). Removethe front roadwheels.28 On manual transmission models fittedwith a direct engagement gear lever, undoand remove the retaining screws and lift offthe interior rubber boot retaining plate. Nowslide the rubber boot up the gear lever slightly.From under the car, undo and remove the twobolts securing the gear lever retaining plate tothe rear of the differential housing. Withdrawthe gear lever into the car and lift out the anti-rattle spring and plunger from the gear leverhousing.29 On manual transmission models fittedwith the early type remote control extensionhousing, undo and remove the fourshouldered bolts securing the housing to themounting on the rear of the differentialassembly. Pull the front of the extensionhousing downwards to disengage the linkageand then support the front of the housing on ablock of wood.30 On manual transmission models fittedwith the later rod-change type remote controlextension housing, drift out the roll pinsecuring the collar of the remote controlextension rod to the selector shaft. Undo andremove the bolt securing the fork of thesteady rod to the differential housing. Releasethe extension rod and the steady rod from therear of the transmission.31 On automatic transmission models,disconnect the gear selector cable from thetransmission as described in Chapter 7B,Section 6.32 On early models undo and remove thebolt securing the engine earth strap to theflywheel/torque converter housing.


2B

33 Undo and remove the nut securing thesteering tie-rod balljoint to the steering arm oneach side of the car. Release the balljointtapers using a universal separator.34 Undo and remove the nut securing thefront suspension swivel hub balljoint to theupper suspension arm on each side of the car.Release the balljoint shanks from the uppersuspension arms using universal balljointseparator. Move the top of the two swivelhubs outwards and allow them to hang in thisposition. Take care not to strain the flexiblebrake hoses excessively.35 On early models equipped with rubbercouplings at the inner end of each driveshaft,undo and remove the two U-bolt locknutssecuring each coupling to the differentialdriving flanges. Withdraw the two U-boltsfrom each side and move the driveshaftsaway from the differential.36 On later models equipped with offsetsphere joints at the inner end of eachdriveshaft, release the joints from thedifferential using Rover special tool 18G1240.If this tool cannot be obtained, it is possible towithdraw the joints using a tyre lever or similartool pivoting against the end cover retainingbolt directly below the joint. Once the jointshave been released, move the driveshaftsaway from the differential as far as possible.37 On Cooper S and certain automatictransmission models, undo and remove thefour nuts securing each universal joint flangeto the differential driving flanges. Move thedriveshafts away from the differential toseparate the flanges.38 On all models undo and remove the nutand bolt securing the exhaust pipe strap tothe bracket on the side of the differentialhousing.39 Undo and remove the nut and boltsecuring the lower engine tie-bar to thebracket on the transmission casing. Slackenthe nut and bolt securing the other end andremove the tie-bar clear of the transmission.

40 Position a crane or hoist over the engineand attach chains or ropes either to bracketsbolted to the cylinder head or around eachend of the transmission casing.41 With the lifting gear in position, raise itslightly and just take the weight of the engine.42 Undo and remove the two nuts and boltssecuring the two engine mountings to the sideof the front subframe.43 Make a final check that all cables, pipesand hoses have been disconnected and thatall removed parts are clear of the engine.44 The engine/transmission can now be liftedout. Tilt it backwards as it is lifted out to allowthe differential to clear the rear of thesubframe. When the unit is halfway out orwhen sufficient clearance exists, unscrew thespeedometer cable knurled retaining nut andlift the cable off the housing (seeillustrations). On fuel injection engines,disconnect the wiring connectors from thePTC heater and coolant temperature sensorsituated on the underside of the inlet manifold.Release the wiring harness from any relevantretaining clips.45 Now completely remove the power unitfrom the vehicle and position it on a bench orclean floor for separation (see illustration).

Refitting46 Refitting is the reverse sequence toremoval, following where necessary theinstructions given in the other Chapters of thismanual. Note the following additional points:a) Tighten all nuts and bolts to the specified

torque wrench settings (where given).b) On models fitted with offset sphere inner

driveshaft joints, ensure that the jointcirclips are properly located in theirgrooves, then apply a smear of graphite-based grease to the splines, and locatethe joints in the transmission. Push themfirmly into position, and check they aresecurely retained by the circlips.

c) Ensure that all wiring harnesses areproperly routed, and are retained by any

necessary cable-ties or clips.d) On automatic transmission models, adjust

the selector cable as described inChapter 7B, Section 6.

e) On models fitted with a vacuum servounit, refit the brake master cylinder asdescribed in Chapter 9.

f) Tighten all hose clips securely, and refillthe cooling system as described inChapter 1.

g) Fit a new oil filter and fill the engine withfresh oil as described in Chapter 1.

h) On completion, reconnect the battery,and adjust the accelerator cable asdescribed in Chapter 4A or B asapplicable.

4 Engine/transmission (withfront subframe) - removal andrefitting

4Note: After disconnecting all the relevantcomponents, the body can be lifted up at thefront by four strong people and wheeled away,or the body can be lifted by block and tackleand the engine/transmission and subframeassembly rolled out from underneath. Whenworking on cars equipped with Hydrolasticsuspension, it will be necessary to have thesystem depressurised by a Rover dealerbefore commencing the removal procedure(see Chapter 10 Section 2).

Removal1 Begin by carrying out paragraphs 1 to 24,and 27 to 33 inclusive of the previous Section,ignoring references to manual or automatictransmission where these are not applicable. 2 Refer to Chapter 4C if necessary andremove the complete exhaust system fromthe car.3 Undo and remove the knurled nut securingthe speedometer cable to its housing on theleft-hand side of the transmission. Withdrawthe cable from the housing.


3.44a Lift the engine/transmission out of the engine bay . . . 3.44b . . . until sufficient clearance exists to disconnect thespeedometer cable

4 Remove the brake master cylinder filler capand place a piece of polythene over the fillerneck. Now securely refit the cap. This will helpprevent loss of fluid when the hydraulic pipesare disconnected.5 On models equipped with a single linebraking system undo and remove the brakehydraulic pipe to the front wheels at the three-way connector on the bulkhead. Where a dualline or split braking system is fitted, undo andremove the hydraulic pipes to the front wheelsat the pressure differential warning actuator orthe pressure reducing valve according tosystem type. In all cases plug or tape over thepipe ends after removal to prevent dirt ingress.6 If the brake lights are operated by ahydraulic pressure switch, disconnect theelectrical leads at the switch, which is locatedon the right-hand side of the subframe.7 Slacken the clip and detach the brake servovacuum hose (where fitted) at the union on theinlet manifold.8 On models fitted with rubber conesuspension, remove the front shockabsorbers as described in Chapter 10.9 On cars fitted with Hydrolastic suspension,undo and remove the displacer unit hoses atthe transfer pipe unions.10 Now refit the roadwheels and lower thecar to the ground.11 From inside the car lift up the carpets andundo and remove the two bolts each sidesecuring the rear of the subframe or subframemounting to the floor.12 At the front of the car undo and removethe bolt that secures each side of thesubframe or subframe mounting to the body.13 On early models knock back the lockingplate tabs from the two bolts (or nuts) oneither side of the engine compartment whichsecure the subframe towers to the bulkheadcrossmember.14 Now undo and remove the bolts or nuts.On later models undo and remove the largehexagon-headed plug that is fitted in place ofthe early bolt or stud mounting.15 Make a final check that all cables, pipesand hoses have been disconnected and thatall removed parts are clear of the engine andsubframe.16 Support the front of the subframe and therear of the transmission casing with blocks ofwood or jacks and lift the body at the frontuntil it is clear of the engine. Take care that allcomponents are clear when lifting the bodyand ensure that the radiator matrix is notdamaged.17 Now wheel the body away from thesubframe or roll the subframe out fromunderneath, whichever is more convenient.

Refitting18 Refitting is the reverse sequence toremoval, following where necessary theinstructions given in the other Chapters of thismanual. Note the following additional points:a) Tighten all nuts and bolts to the specified

torque wrench settings (where given).

b) Ensure that all wiring harnesses areproperly routed, and are retained by anynecessary cable-ties or clips.

c) Adjust the accelerator cable as describedin Chapter 4A or B as applicable.

d) On automatic transmission models, adjustthe selector cable as described inChapter 7B, Section 6.

e) Tighten all hose clips securely, and refillthe cooling system as described inChapter 1.

f) Fit a new oil filter and fill the engine withfresh oil as described in Chapter 1.

g) Bleed the brake hydraulic system oncompletion as described in Chapter 9.Where Hydrolastic suspension is fitted itwill be necessary to have the systemrepressurised by a Rover dealer

5 Engine and manualtransmission - separation andreconnection

3Separation1 Remove the engine/transmission assemblyfrom the car as described in Section 3.Alternatively, if the unit has been removedcomplete with front subframe, undo theengine/transmission mounting attachmentsand lift the assembly from the subframe usingsuitable lifting tackle. Position the

engine/transmission on the bench andproceed as follows.2 If not already done, drain theengine/transmission oil as described inChapter 1.3 Undo and remove the retaining bolts and liftoff the flywheel housing cover and, if still inplace, the starter motor (see illustration).4 Where applicable, withdraw the wireretaining clips and lift away the clutch thrustplate from the centre of the diaphragm springhousing (see illustration).5 Rotate the flywheel until the timing markson the flywheel periphery are at approximatelythe 3 o’clock position. This will prevent theprimary gear retaining U-shaped washer frombecoming dislodged as the flywheel isremoved.


2B

5.3 Removing the flywheel housing cover

5.4 Clutch thrust plate and flywheelsecuring bolt assemblies

1 Circlip2 Release bearing thrust

plate3 Flywheel retaining

bolt4 Lockwasher5 Keyed washer

6 Using a punch or small chisel, knock backthe lockwasher securing the large flywheelretaining bolt in the centre of the flywheel.7 With a large socket and extension handle,undo and remove the flywheel retaining bolt.Insert a screwdriver between the flywheel ringgear teeth and housing to prevent the flywheelfrom turning while the bolt is removed. Alsohave an assistant support the engine, as thisbolt will be tight requiring considerableleverage to remove it. When the bolt isremoved, prise out the keyed locating washerfrom the end of the flywheel and crankshaft.8 Where the bolt which retains the flywheel tothe crankshaft has been secured with thread-locking compound or an encapsulated type ofbolt is used, then prior to refitting, all threadsin the crankshaft must be thoroughly cleaned.Preferably, this should be done by using a tapof the appropriate size. Discard the oldretaining bolt, and use only a newencapsulated bolt incorporating a thread-locking compound patch on refitting.9 The flywheel is a taper fit on the end of thecrankshaft and a special puller will be neededto remove it. This puller is Rover special tool18G304 and adapter 18G304M for modelswithout the later type verto clutch assembly,or 18G1381 for models with a verto typeclutch (see Chapter 6 for identification of thetwo clutch types, if necessary). Note thatthere are a number of similar pullers readilyobtainable from accessory shops or tool hireoutlets if the manufacturer’s tool is notavailable (see illustration).10 Position the puller with the three studs orbolts inserted through the holes in the spring

housing (non-verto type) and screwed into theflywheel securely. Do not tighten the studs/bolts or the clutch disc may be damaged. Fitthe thrust pad of the puller to the end of thecrankshaft and then tighten the puller centrebolt. Prevent the flywheel from turning using ascrewdriver inserted into the ring gear teeth.11 Continue tightening the centre bolt of thepuller until the flywheel breaks free from thetaper. It is quite likely that the flywheel will beextremely tight requiring a great deal of effortto free it. If this is the case sharply strike thepuller centre bolt with a medium hammer. Thisshould “shock” the flywheel off the taper.Take care when doing this as the flywheelmay spring off and land on your feet!12 Once the taper is released the completeclutch and flywheel assembly can be lifted offthe end of the crankshaft.13 With the flywheel and clutch removed theflywheel housing can be separated from theengine/transmission casing as follows.14 If a breather is fitted to the top of thehousing undo and remove the retaining boltsand lift off the breather assembly.15 Knock back the tabs on the lockwashersinside the housing.16 Undo and remove the nine nuts from thestuds on the transmission casing (seeillustration).17 Undo and remove the six bolts from thecylinder block. Note the positions from whichthe shorter bolts are removed.18 The housing can now be carefully pulledoff. Note that as the housing is withdrawn asmall quantity of oil will be released so havesome old rags or a small container handy.

19 With the flywheel and flywheel housingremoved, undo and remove the flange nuts,bolts and spring washers securing the engineto the transmission.20 Undo and remove the bolts securing theradiator lower mounting bracket to the enginemounting bracket.21 Using a crane, or hoist and lifting slings,carefully lift the engine off the transmissioncasing. It may be necessary to tap thetransmission casing downwards with a rubberor hide mallet to break the seal between thetwo mating faces.22 With the engine removed, cover the top ofthe transmission to prevent dirt ingress.

ReconnectionNote: Before reconnecting the engine andtransmission, refer to Chapter 7A, Section 6and adjust the endfloat of the transfer gears(primary gear and idler gear). Then proceed asdescribed below.23 Carefully scrape away any remainingtraces of old gasket from theengine/transmission mating faces andflywheel housing joint.24 Lightly smear the upper sides of theengine/transmission joint gaskets with jointingcompound and place them in position on theengine mating face.25 Apply a bead of RTV sealant to all themating surfaces of the front oil seal, thenplace seal in position between the front mainbearing cap and engine front plate (seeillustration).


5.9 Using a commercially available pullerto release the flywheel taper

5.25 Fitting a new front oil seal . . .5.16 Flywheel housing attachments

26 Locate the oil supply O-ring into itsgroove in the transmission casing face, and ifnecessary retain it in place with a trace ofgrease (see illustration).27 Using suitable lifting gear and with thehelp of an assistant, carefully lower the engineonto the transmission casing. Have yourassistant guide the engine, and lower it veryslowly, as it is easy to dislodge the gaskets.28 With the engine in position, refit and fullytighten the retaining nuts, bolts and springwashers, and refit the radiator lower mountingbolts.29 Refit the primary gear thrustwasher to theend of the crankshaft with its chamfered sidetoward the crankshaft flange (seeillustration).30 Slide on the primary gear (seeillustration) and then turn the crankshaft untilNo 1 piston at TDC (refer to Part A, Section 3).31 Refit the primary gear retaining ring andthen secure the assembly in position with theC-shaped washer (see illustrations).32 Refit the idler gear to its bearings in thetransmission casing, turning it slightly to meshwith the other two gears as it is installed.Ensure that both the thrustwashers are inposition, one each side of the idler gear: if thelater type gear is being fitted, the longer bossgoes toward the transmission casing.33 Place a new joint gasket over the studs onthe transmission casing.34 Before fitting the flywheel housing, makesure that a new flywheel housing oil seal hasbeen fitted (see Part A, Section 9), and coverthe splines of the primary gear with the

special thin sleeve of Rover special tool18G570. Alternatively, wrap tin foil or maskingtape tightly over the splines to avoiddamaging the seal. Lubricate the lip of the oilseal prior to fitting. 35 Carefully refit the flywheel housing, takingcare that the rollers on the first motion shaftbearing enter their outer race squarely. On noaccount force the housing. If it does not easilypush fully home, turn the bearing slightly andtry again. Two or three attempts may beneeded (see illustration).36 Refit new locking tabs, followed by thehousing retaining nuts and bolts to theircorrect locations. Tighten the fixings to thespecified torque and bend over the locktabs.37 Carefully clean the mating tapers in theflywheel and on the end of the crankshaft, andmake quite certain there are no traces of oil,grease, or dirt present.38 Refit the flywheel on the end of thecrankshaft with the 1/4 TDC markings at thetop and then refit the driving washer whichpositively locates the flywheel.39 Fit a new lockwasher under the head of theflywheel securing bolt. Remember to use only anew encapsulated bolt incorporating a thread-locking compound if that type of bolt wasremoved. Insert the bolt in the centre of theflywheel and tighten it to the specified torque.40 Tap down the side of the lockwasheragainst the driving plate, and tap up the otherside of the washer against the retaining bolthead.41 Refit the thrust plate and secure it inposition with the circular retaining spring.

42 Now refit the flywheel housing cover andfully tighten the retaining bolts. Refit thestarter motor if appropriate at this stage.

6 Engine and automatictransmission - separation andreconnection

3Separation1 Remove the engine/transmission assemblyfrom the car as described in Section 3.Alternatively, if the unit has been removedcomplete with front subframe, undo theengine/transmission mounting attachmentsand lift the assembly from the subframe usingsuitable lifting tackle. Position the engine/transmission on the bench and proceed asfollows.2 If not already done, drain the engine/transmission oil as described in Chapter 1.3 Undo and remove the retaining bolts and liftoff the torque converter housing cover and, ifstill in place, the starter motor.4 Undo and remove the retaining nuts andbolts and take off the converter housing cover.5 Undo and remove the five retaining boltsand lift off the low pressure valve assemblyfrom its location beneath the torque converter(see illustration).6 Using a socket and bar, undo and removethe converter input gear retaining nut. Use alarge screwdriver inserted through the hole inthe top of the converter housing and engagedwith the ring gear teeth to prevent the torqueconverter from turning.


2B

5.26 . . . and a new O-ring to thetransmission casing joint face

5.29 Position the primary gearthrustwasher on the crankshaft

5.30 Slide on the primary gear . . .

5.31a . . . followed by the retaining ring . . . 5.31b . . . and the C-shaped washer 5.35 Refitting the flywheel housing

7 Knock back the locktabs, and undo andremove three equally spaced bolts from thecentre of the converter. Leave the other threebolts in position.8 Knock back the lockwasher securing thelarge converter centre retaining bolt. Using alarge socket and bar, undo and remove thetorque converter centre bolt. Use ascrewdriver as previously described toprevent the converter from turning.9 Rotate the crankshaft until the timing markson the converter periphery are atapproximately the 3 o’clock position.10 The torque converter is a taper fit on theend of the crankshaft and it will be necessaryto obtain Rover special tool 18G1086 toremove it. The tool is bolted to the torqueconverter through the holes of the threepreviously removed converter retaining bolts.With the adapter in position on the end of thecrankshaft, tighten the tool centre bolt untilthe torque converter breaks free of the taper,and then lift it off the crankshaft.11 Undo and remove the nuts, bolts andwashers securing the converter housing to theengine and transmission casing.12 Remove the selector bellcrank lever clevispin and nut, and lift off the bellcrank lever.Remove the bellcrank lever pivot.13 The converter housing can now becarefully withdrawn.

14 With the torque converter and housingremoved, carefully lever the main oil feed pipefrom the transmission and oil pump (seeillustration).15 Undo and remove the two retaining boltsand lift off the oil filter and housing assembly.16 Unscrew the engine oil feed pipe union atthe adapter on the transmission casing.17 Undo and remove the flange nuts, boltsand spring washers securing the engine to thetransmission.18 Undo and remove the bolts securing theradiator lower mounting bracket to the enginemounting adapter.19 Using a crane, or hoist and lifting slings,carefully lift the engine off the transmissioncasing. It may be necessary to tap thetransmission casing downward with a rubberor hide mallet to break the seal between thetwo mating faces.20 With the engine removed cover the top ofthe transmission completely to prevent dirtingress.

ReconnectionNote: Before reconnecting the engine andtransmission, the endfloat of the transfer gears(primary gear and idler gear) must be adjusted.The procedure is the same as for manualtransmission models and is described inChapter 7A, Section 6. With the endfloatadjusted, proceed as described below.

21 Carefully scrape away any remaining tracesof old gasket from the engine/transmissionmating faces and flywheel housing joint.22 Lightly smear the upper sides of theengine/transmission joint gaskets with jointingcompound and place them in position on theengine mating face.23 Apply a bead of RTV sealant to all themating surfaces of the front oil seal, thenplace seal in position between the front mainbearing cap and engine front plate.24 Using suitable lifting gear and with thehelp of an assistant, carefully lower the engineonto the transmission casing. Have yourassistant guide the engine, and lower it veryslowly, as it is easy to dislodge the gaskets.25 With the engine in position, refit and fullytighten the retaining nuts, bolts and springwashers, and refit the radiator lower mountingbolts.26 Refit the engine oil feed pipe to the unionon the transmission casing.27 Place a new gasket in position and refitthe oil filter assembly.28 Using new O-rings where necessary,carefully push the oil feed pipe intoengagement with the oil pump andtransmission casing orifice.29 Place the converter output gearthrustwasher over the end of the crankshaft,with its chamfered face toward the crankshaftflange.


6.5 Low pressure valve assembly and input gear retaining nut -automatic transmission models

6.14 End view of the automatic transmission transfer gears withthe converter housing removed

1 Main oil pump2 Converter output gear3 Idler gear

4 Input gear5 Oil feed pipe6 Sealing rings

30 Now slide on the output gear. Turn thecrankshaft until No 1 piston is at TDC (refer toPart A, Section 3) then refit the output gearretaining ring and C-shaped washer.31 With the thrustwashers located over eachside of the idler gear, insert the gear into itsneedle roller bearing.32 Ensure that the mating faces of theengine/transmission and converter housingare clean, and then position a new gasketover the studs on the transmission.33 Before fitting the converter housing, makesure that a new converter housing oil seal hasbeen fitted (see Part A, Section 9), and coverthe splines of the converter output gear withthe special thin sleeve of Rover special tool18G1098. Alternatively, wrap tin foil ormasking tape tightly over the splines to avoiddamaging the seal. Lubricate the lip of the oilseal prior to fitting. 34 Now carefully refit the converter housing,pushing it squarely home over thetransmission casting studs. Refit the retainingnuts and bolts, tightened to the specifiedtorque.35 Refit the selector bellcrank lever pivot,lever, clevis pin and nut.36 Before fitting the torque converter, it willbe first necessary to refit the three centralbolts removed to allow the special converterremoval tool to be used during dismantling.Then remove each pair of bolts in turn fromthe converter centre and fit new lockingplates. Tighten the six bolts to the specifiedtorque wrench setting and bend over the locktabs. On no account remove all six bolts at anyone time. Then, with No 1 and 4 pistons still atthe TDC position, slide the torque converteronto the end of the crankshaft, with the timingmarks uppermost. Refit the driving collar, anew lockwasher and the retaining bolt.Tighten the retaining bolt to the torque givenin the Specifications, and then knock back thelockwasher.37 Now refit and fully tighten the input gearretaining nut.38 Position a new gasket on the transmissioncasing and refit the low pressure valveassembly.39 Finally refit the converter housing coverand the starter motor.

7 Engine overhaul - preliminaryinformation

It is much easier to dismantle and work onthe engine if it is mounted on a portableengine stand. These stands can often be hiredfrom a tool hire shop.

If a stand is not available, it is possible todismantle the engine with it suitablysupported on a sturdy, workbench or on thefloor. Be careful not to tip or drop the enginewhen working without a stand.

If you intend to obtain a reconditionedengine, all ancillaries must be removed first, tobe transferred to the replacement engine (justas they will if you are doing a complete engineoverhaul yourself). These components includethe following:a) Dynamo/alternator mounting brackets.b) Engine/transmission mountings and

brackets (Part A of this Chapter).c) Tappet block side covers - where fitted

(Section 9).d) The ignition system and HT components

including all sensors, distributor cap androtor arm, HT leads and spark plugs(Chapters 1 and 5B).

e) Distributor driveshaft (Part A of this Chapter).f) All electrical switches and sensors.g) Emission control equipment - where

applicable (Chapter 4C).h) Thermostat and housing, water pump,

heater control valve (Chapter 3).i) Mechanical fuel pump - carburettor

engines only (Chapter 4A).j) Carburettor/fuel injection system

components (Chapter 4A and 4B).k) Inlet and exhaust manifolds (Chapter 4A,

4B and 4C).l) Oil pump (Section 10).m)Oil filter housing and delivery pipe (Part A

of this Chapter).n) Oil filter (Chapter 1).

Note: When removing the externalcomponents from the engine, pay closeattention to details that may be helpful orimportant during refitting. Note the fittingpositions of gaskets, seals, washers, bolts andother small items.

If you are obtaining a “short” engine(cylinder block, crankshaft, pistons, camshaftand tappets, and connecting rods allassembled), then the cylinder head, timingchain (together with tensioner, sprockets andcover) will have to be removed also.

If a complete overhaul is planned, theengine can be dismantled in the order givenbelow, referring to Part A of this Chapterunless otherwise stated.a) Inlet and exhaust manifolds (Chapter 4A

or 4B).b) Distributor driveshaft.c) Timing chain, sprockets and tensioner.d) Cylinder head.e) Camshaft and tappets (Section 9).f) Oil pressure relief valve.g) Oil filter housing and delivery pipe.h) Oil pump (Section 10).i) Piston/connecting rod assemblies

(Section 11).j) Crankshaft (Section 12).

8 Cylinder head - dismantling,cleaning, inspection andreassembly

3Note: New and reconditioned cylinder headsare available from the manufacturer, and fromengine overhaul specialists. Be aware thatsome specialist tools are required for thedismantling and inspection procedures, andnew components may not be readily available.It may therefore be more practical andeconomical for the home mechanic topurchase a reconditioned head, rather thandismantle, inspect and recondition the originalhead.

Dismantling1 Remove the cylinder head as described inPart A of this Chapter.2 If not already done, remove the inlet andexhaust manifolds with reference to therelevant Part of Chapter 4.3 With a pair of pliers remove the spring clips(where fitted) holding the two halves of thesplit collets together.4 Using a valve spring compressor, compresseach valve spring in turn until the split colletscan be removed. Release the compressor,and lift off the spring retainer, valve guideshield (early models) and the spring. Wherefitted, slide the oil seal off the valve stem.Note: On 1275 cc engines the oil seal ispositioned over the valve guide. On Cooper Smodels double valve springs are used. (seeillustrations).


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8.4a Compress the valve springs with aspring compressor and lift off the split

collets . . .

8.4b . . . Then remove the compressor,valve cap and spring

If, when the valve springcompressor is screweddown, the spring retainerrefuses to free and expose

the split collets, gently tap the top ofthe tool, directly over the retainer, witha light hammer. This will free theretainer.

5 Withdraw the valve through the combustionchamber.6 It is essential that each valve is storedtogether with its collets, retainer and spring(s).The valves should also be kept in their correctsequence, unless they are so badly worn thatthey are to be renewed. If they are going to bekept and used again, place each valveassembly in a labelled polythene bag orsimilar small container (see illustration). Notethat No 1 valve is nearest to the timing chainend of the engine.

Cleaning7 Thoroughly clean all traces of old gasketmaterial and sealing compound from thecylinder head mating surfaces. Use a suitablecleaning agent together with a putty knife orscraper, taking care not to scratch the headsurface.

8 Remove the carbon from the combustionchambers and ports, then clean all traces ofoil and other deposits from the cylinder head,paying particular attention to the valve guidesand oilways.9 Wash the head thoroughly with paraffin or asuitable solvent. Take plenty of time and do athorough job. Be sure to clean all oil holes andgalleries very thoroughly, dry the headcompletely and coat all machined surfaceswith light oil.10 Scrape off any heavy carbon deposits thatmay have formed on the valves, then use apower-operated wire brush to removedeposits from the valve heads and stems.

InspectionNote: Be sure to perform all the followinginspection procedures before concluding thatthe services of an engineering works arerequired. Make a list of all items that requireattention.

Cylinder head11 Inspect the head very carefully for cracks,evidence of coolant leakage, and otherdamage. If cracks are found, a new cylinderhead should be obtained.12 Use a straight-edge and feeler blade tocheck that the cylinder head gasket surface isnot distorted. If it is, it may be possible tohave it machined. Seek the advice of a Roverdealer or engine overhaul specialist ifdistortion is suspected.13 Examine the valve seats in each of thecombustion chambers. If they are severely

pitted, cracked, or burned, they will need tobe renewed or re-cut by an engine overhaulspecialist. If they are only slightly pitted, thiscan be removed by grinding-in the valveheads and seats with fine valve-grindingcompound, as described below.14 Check the valve guides for wear byinserting the relevant valve, and checking forside-to-side motion of the valve. A very smallamount of movement is acceptable. If themovement seems excessive, remove thevalve. Measure the valve stem diameter (seebelow), and renew the valve if it is worn. If thevalve stem is not worn, the wear must be inthe valve guide, and the guide must berenewed. The renewal of valve guides is bestcarried out by a Rover dealer or engineoverhaul specialist, who will have thenecessary tools available.15 If renewing the valve guides, the valveseats should be re-cut or re-ground only afterthe guides have been fitted.

Valves16 Examine the head of each valve forpitting, burning, cracks, and general wear.Check the valve stem for scoring and wearridges. Rotate the valve, and check for anyobvious indication that it is bent. Look for pitsor excessive wear on the tip of each valvestem. Renew any valve that shows any suchsigns of wear or damage.17 If the valve appears satisfactory at thisstage, measure the valve stem diameter atseveral points using a micrometer (seeillustration). Any significant difference in thereadings obtained indicates wear of the valvestem. Should any of these conditions beapparent, the valve(s) must be renewed.18 In order to reduce oil consumption, valvestem oil seals are fitted to the inlet valves oflater 998 cc engines. Fitting of the seals hasrequired the incorporation of modified valves,with cotter grooves nearer the end of thestem. The valve spring seats have also beenraised by 1.2 mm.19 If renewing any valves, bear in mind thatnew type valves and seals can be fitted to oldtype cylinder heads in complete sets only,with the addition of a shim 1.2 mm thickunderneath each spring. These shims mayalso be found already fitted to engines whichleft the factory with the new type valves and


8.6 Keep all valve components together ina labelled plastic bag

8.17 Measuring the valve stem diameter

8.4c Valve assembly components

1 Early type 2 Later type 3 Cooper S type

seals in unmodified heads. Consult a Roverdealer for further details of this modification.20 If the valves are in satisfactory condition,they should be ground (lapped) into theirrespective seats, to ensure a smooth, gas-tight seal. If the seat is only lightly pitted, or ifit has been re-cut, fine grinding compoundonly should be used to produce the requiredfinish. Coarse valve-grinding compoundshould not be used, unless a seat is badlyburned or deeply pitted. If this is the case, thecylinder head and valves should be inspectedby an expert, to decide whether seat re-cutting, or even the renewal of the valve orseat insert (where possible) is required.21 Valve grinding is carried out as follows.Place the cylinder head upside-down on abench.22 Smear a trace of (the appropriate gradeof) valve-grinding compound on the seat face,and press a suction grinding tool onto thevalve head. With a semi-rotary action, grindthe valve head to its seat, lifting the valveoccasionally to redistribute the grindingcompound. A light spring placed under thevalve head will greatly ease this operation.23 If coarse grinding compound is beingused, work only until a dull, matt even surfaceis produced on both the valve seat and thevalve, then wipe off the used compound, andrepeat the process with fine compound. Whena smooth unbroken ring of light grey mattfinish is produced on both the valve and seat,the grinding operation is complete. Do notgrind-in the valves any further than absolutelynecessary, or the seat will be prematurelysunk into the cylinder head.

24 When all the valves have been ground-in,carefully wash off all traces of grindingcompound using paraffin or a suitable solvent,before reassembling the cylinder head.

Valve components25 Examine the valve springs for signs ofdamage and discoloration. Measure their freelength and compare the dimension with thefigures given in the Specifications (seeillustration).26 Stand each spring on a flat surface, andcheck it for squareness. If any of the springsare damaged, distorted or shorter than thespecified length, obtain a complete new set ofsprings. It is normal to renew the valve springsas a matter of course if a major overhaul isbeing carried out.27 Renew the valve stem oil seals regardlessof their apparent condition.

Reassembly28 Lubricate the stems of the valves, andinsert the valves into their original locations. Ifnew valves are being fitted, insert them intothe locations to which they have been ground.29 As each valve is inserted, slip the oil sealinto place just under the bottom of the colletgroove. A much larger oil seal is used on the1275 cc engines. This should be fitted overthe top of the valve guide.30 Refit the valve spring(s), valve guide shield(early models) and the spring retainer.31 Compress the valve spring, and locate thesplit collets in the recess in the valve stem.Release the compressor, then repeat theprocedure on the remaining valves.

32 With all the valves installed, place thecylinder head face down on blocks on thebench and, using a hammer and interposedblock of wood, tap the end of each valve stemto settle the components.33 The cylinder head can then be refitted asdescribed in Part A of this Chapter.

9 Camshaft and tappets -removal, inspection andrefitting

3Note: The camshaft can only be removed withthe engine out of the car and on the bench.With the cylinder head, timing cover, gearsand chain, fuel pump and distributor drivegearremoved, proceed as follows.

Removal1 On 848, 998 and 1098 cc engines, undoand remove the bolt securing each tappetblock side cover to the rear of the cylinderblock and lift off the covers (see illustration).2 Lift out each tappet from its location in thecylinder block and ensure that they are kept inthe correct sequence in which they wereremoved (see illustration). Note: On 1275 ccengines, tappet block side covers are notfitted and the tappets can only be removedafter removing the camshaft.3 Undo and remove the three bolts andspring washers securing the camshaftlocating plate to the cylinder block. Lift off theplate (see illustration).4 On 848, 998 and 1098 cc engines, carefullywithdraw the camshaft from the cylinderblock, taking care not to damage thecamshaft bearings with the cam lobes as it iswithdrawn.5 On 1275 cc engines position the engine onits side to prevent the tappets falling out, thenslide out the camshaft. Recover the oil pumpdrive coupling from the end of the camshaftafter removal. Now lift out each tappet, frominside the crankcase, keeping them in thecorrect sequence in which they wereremoved.6 On all engines, if further dismantling is to becarried out, undo the bolts still remaining andlift off the engine front plate. Recover thegasket and clean the mating surfaces of thefront plate and cylinder block.

Inspection

Camshaft and camshaft bearings7 Carefully examine the camshaft bearingsfor wear. Note: On 848 cc engines, only thefront camshaft bearing is renewable. If thebearings are obviously worn or pitted or the


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8.25 Measuring valve spring free length

9.1 Removing the tappet side covers 9.2 Removing the cam followers 9.3 Undo the camshaft locating plate boltsand lift off the plate

Use a little dab of grease tohold the collets in positionon the valve stem while thespring compressor isreleased.

metal underlay is showing through, then theymust be renewed (where applicable). Thisoperation must be entrusted to a Rover dealeror engine reconditioning specialist as itdemands the use of specialised equipment.The bearings are removed with a special drift,after which new bearings are pressed in, carebeing taken to ensure that the oil holes in thebearings line up with those in the block. Witha special tool the bearings are then reamed inposition.8 The camshaft itself should show no signs ofwear, but if very slight scoring on the camlobes is noticed, the score marks can beremoved by very gentle rubbing down withvery fine emery cloth. The greatest careshould be taken to keep the cam profilessmooth.

Tappets9 Examine the bearing surface of the tappetswhich contact the camshaft lobes. Anyindentation in this surface or any cracksindicate serious wear and the tappets shouldbe renewed. Thoroughly clean them out,removing all traces of sludge. It is mostunlikely that the sides of the tappets will proveworn, but, if they are a very loose fit in theirbores and can readily be rocked, they shouldbe renewed. It is very unusual to find any wearin the tappets, and any wear present is likelyto occur only at very high mileage.

Refitting10 On 1275 cc engines, generously lubricatethe tappets internally and externally, andinsert them in the bores from which they wereremoved.11 Wipe the camshaft bearing journals cleanand lubricate them generously with engine oil.12 Insert the camshaft into the cylinderblock, taking care not to damage thecamshaft bearings with the sharp edges of thecam lobes.13 Push the camshaft back as far as it will go

and, if the oil pump is in position, ensure thatthe camshaft flange has mated with the pumpdrive.14 Place a new gasket in position and refitthe front plate (if previously removed).15 Now refit the camshaft locating plate andtighten the three retaining bolts. Temporarilyrefit the camshaft sprocket, then check thecamshaft endfloat, referring to the figuresgiven in the Specifications.16 Refit the remaining front plate boltslocated inside the timing cover profile.17 On 848, 998 and 1098 cc engines, refitthe tappet block side covers using newgaskets and secure with the retaining bolts.

10 Oil pump - removal,inspection and refitting 3

RemovalNote: Prior to removing the pump, it will benecessary to remove the flywheel and flywheelhousing, or torque converter and housing. Theoil pump engages directly via a lip and slot orsplined drive with the rear of the camshaft.1 Bend back the locking tabs on the securingbolts which hold the pump to the block.2 Unscrew and remove the bolts and locktabs, then lift off the oil pump assembly.

InspectionNote: Three types of oil pump have beenfitted during the course of production; theseare the Burman, Hobourn Eaton, and theConcentric (Engineering) pumps. The Burmanand Hobourn Eaton pumps may bedismantled for inspection as described below;however the Concentric (Engineering) pump isa sealed unit which cannot be dismantled, andif suspect should be exchanged for a new unit.It is quite likely that after high mileage therotor, (or vanes), shaft, and internal body of

the pump will be quite badly scored, requiringrenewal of the pump. This is mainly due to theengine and transmission sharing the samelubricating oil, making thorough filtration ofminute metallic particles impossible. It istherefore recommended that a very carefulinspection of the pump be carried out and, ifat all suspect, the pump renewed.3 To dismantle either the Burman or HobournEaton type of pump, undo and remove thesecuring screw on the rear face and lift off thecover, rotor and shaft.4 Examine the rotor and shaft lobes (or vaneson the Burman pump) for scoring or wearridges. Also check the inner circumference ofthe pump body. Renew the complete pump ifwear is apparent.5 If the pump is in a satisfactory condition,measure the clearances between the shaftlobes and the side of the pump body (seeillustrations). If the clearances are outside thelimits given in the Specifications the pumpmust be renewed.6 Reassembly of the pump is the reversesequence to dismantling. Fill the assembledpump with clean engine oil before refitting tothe engine.

Refitting7 Ensure that the pump and cylinder blockmating faces are clean then place a newgasket in position on the rear face of theblock. 8 Check that the pump is filled with cleanengine oil and then position it over the gasket,engaging the drive slot or coupling with therear of the camshaft.9 Rotate the pump body until the offset holesin the pump, gasket and cylinder block are allin line, then refit the retaining bolts and newlocktabs.10 Tighten the bolts to the specified torqueand bend over the locktabs.


10.5a Measuring the oil pump rotor lobe clearance . . . 10.5b . . . and rotor-to-body clearance

11 Piston/connecting rod -removal, inspection,separation and reconnection

3Removal1 With the engine separated from thetransmission and the cylinder head removed,the piston/connecting rod assemblies can beremoved as follows.2 Knock back the locking tabs on the big-endbearing cap retaining bolts, using a smallchisel and remove the bolts and locking tabs.The 1275 cc engine does not have lockingtabs and the big-end caps are retained bybolts and special multi-sided nuts.3 Remove the big-end caps one at a time,taking care to keep them in the right order andthe correct way round (see illustration). Alsoensure that the shell bearings are kept withtheir correct connecting rods and caps unlessthey are to be renewed. Normally, the numbers1 to 4 are stamped on adjacent sides of thebig-end caps and connecting rods, indicatingwhich cap fits on which rod and which wayround that cap fits. If no numbers or lines canbe found then, with a sharp screwdriver,scratch mating marks across the joint from therod to the cap. One line for connecting rod No1, two for connecting rod No 2, and so on. Thiswill ensure that there is no confusion later, as itis essential that the caps go back in thecorrect position on the connecting rods fromwhich they were removed.4 If the big-end caps are difficult to removethey may be gently tapped with a soft mallet.5 To remove the shell bearings, press thebearing opposite the groove in both theconnecting rod and the connecting rod caps,and the bearings will slide out easily.6 Withdraw the pistons and connecting rodsupwards and ensure that they are kept in thecorrect order for refitting in the same bore.Refit the connecting rod caps and bearings tothe rods if the bearings do not requirerenewal, to minimise the risk of getting thecaps and rods muddled.

Inspection7 Before the inspection process can begin,the piston/connecting rod assemblies must

be cleaned, and the original piston ringsremoved from the pistons.8 Carefully expand the old rings over the topof the pistons. The use of two or three oldfeeler blades will be helpful in preventing therings dropping into empty grooves (seeillustration). Be careful not to scratch thepiston with the ends of the ring. The rings arebrittle, and will snap if they are spread too far.They are also very sharp - protect your handsand fingers. Always remove the rings from thetop of the piston. Keep each set of rings withits piston if the old rings are to be re-used.9 Scrape away all traces of carbon from thetop of the piston. A hand-held wire brush (or apiece of fine emery cloth) can be used, oncethe majority of the deposits have beenscraped away.10 Remove the carbon from the ring groovesin the piston, using an old ring. Break the ringin half to do this (be careful not to cut yourfingers - piston rings are sharp). Be careful toremove only the carbon deposits - do notremove any metal, and do not nick or scratchthe sides of the ring grooves.11 Once the deposits have been removed,clean the piston/connecting rod assemblywith paraffin or a suitable solvent, and drythoroughly. Make sure that the oil return holesin the ring grooves are clear.12 If the pistons and cylinder bores are notdamaged or worn excessively, the originalpistons can be refitted. Normal piston wearshows up as even vertical wear on the pistonthrust surfaces, and slight looseness of thetop ring in its groove. New piston rings shouldalways be used when the engine isreassembled.13 Carefully inspect each piston for cracksaround the skirt, around the gudgeon pinholes, and at the piston ring “lands” (betweenthe ring grooves).14 Look for scoring and scuffing on the pistonskirt, holes in the piston crown, and burnedareas at the edge of the crown. If the skirt isscored or scuffed, the engine may have beensuffering from overheating, and/or abnormalcombustion which caused excessively highoperating temperatures. The cooling andlubrication systems should be checkedthoroughly. Scorch marks on the sides of thepistons show that blow-by has occurred. A

hole in the piston crown, or burned areas atthe edge of the piston crown, indicates thatabnormal combustion (pre-ignition, knocking,or detonation) has been occurring. If any of theabove problems exist, the causes must beinvestigated and corrected, or the damage willoccur again. The causes may include incorrectignition timing, or a carburettor or fuel injectionsystem fault.15 Corrosion of the piston, in the form ofpitting, indicates that coolant has beenleaking into the combustion chamber and/orthe crankcase. Again, the cause must becorrected, or the problem may persist in therebuilt engine.16 Using a micrometer, measure thediameter of all four pistons at a point 10 mmfrom the bottom of the skirt, at right angles tothe gudgeon pin axis (see illustration).Record the measurements and use them tocheck the piston-to-bore clearance when thecylinder bores are measured later in thisChapter.17 Hold a new piston ring in the appropriategroove and measure the ring-to-grooveclearance using a feeler blade (seeillustration). Note that the rings are ofdifferent types, so use the correct ring for thegroove. Compare the measurements withthose listed in the Specifications; if theclearances are outside the tolerance range,then the pistons must be renewed.18 When new pistons are to be fitted, takegreat care to be sure to fit the exact size bestsuited to the particular bore of your engine.Rover go one stage further than merelyspecifying one size piston for all standard


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11.3 Removing a connecting rod big-endcap

11.8 Using feeler blades to aid removal ofthe piston rings

11.16 Measuring the piston diameter

11.17 Measuring the piston ring-to-grooveclearance

bores. Because of very slight differences incylinder machining during production, it isnecessary to select just the right piston for thebore. A range of different sizes are availableeither from the piston manufacturer or from aRover dealer.19 Examination of the cylinder block face willshow, adjacent to each bore, a smalldiamond-shaped box with a number stampedin the metal. Careful examination of the pistoncrown will show a matching diamond andnumber (see illustration). These are thestandard piston sizes and will be the same forall bores. If the standard pistons are to berefitted or standard low compression pistonschanged to standard high compressionpistons, then it is essential that only pistonswith the same number in the diamond areused. With oversize pistons fitted after arebore, the amount of oversize is stamped inan ellipse on the piston crown.20 Examine each connecting rod carefully forsigns of damage, such as cracks around thebig-end and small-end bearings. Check thatthe rod is not visibly bent or distorted.Damage is highly unlikely, unless the enginehas been seized or badly overheated. Detailedchecking of the connecting rod assembly canonly be carried out by a Rover dealer orengine repair specialist with the necessaryequipment.

Separation21 Three different methods of gudgeon pinretention are employed, depending on thetype and cubic capacity of the engine.22 On the 848 cc engines the gudgeon pin isclamped firmly in place by a pinch-boltlocated in the end of the connecting rod (seeillustration). To remove the piston from theconnecting rod it is merely necessary to undoand remove the pinch-bolt and slide out thegudgeon pin. If it shows reluctance to move,do not force it as this may damage the piston.Immerse the piston in boiling water for a fewminutes; the expansion of the aluminiumshould allow the pin to slide out easily.23 On early 998 cc and all 1098 cc engines,fully floating gudgeon pins are used, thesebeing retained in position by a circlip at eachend of the gudgeon pin bore in the piston. Toremove the gudgeon pin and piston, withdrawthe circlip from one end and push the pin out,

immersing it in boiling water if it appearsreluctant to move.24 On later 998 cc and all 1275 cc enginesthe gudgeon pin is firmly held in the small-endof the connecting rod by an interference fit.Removal of the gudgeon pin calls for the usespecial tools and a good deal of experience touse them correctly. Therefore, piston and/orconnecting rod renewal should be entrustedto a Rover dealer or engine repair specialist,who will have the necessary tooling to removeand install the gudgeon pins.25 On early 998 cc and all 1098 cc engines,check the fit of the gudgeon pin in theconnecting rod bush and in the piston. If thereis perceptible play, a new bush or an oversizegudgeon pin must be fitted. Consult a Roverdealer or engine reconditioning specialist. 26 Examine all components and obtain anynew parts required. If new pistons arepurchased, they will be supplied completewith gudgeon pins and, where applicable,circlips. Circlips can also be purchasedseparately.

Reconnection27 If the original pistons are being used, thenthey must be mated to the original connectingrod with the original gudgeon pin. If newpistons and gudgeon pins are being fitted, itdoes not matter which connecting rod theyare used with.28 The gudgeon pin may be a very tight fit inthe piston when cold (particularly on pistonswhich have a small-end clamp bolt) but,because aluminium has a greater coefficientof expansion than steel, this fit will be mucheasier if the piston is heated in boiling water.29 Lay the correct piston adjacent to itsconnecting rod and remember that theoriginal rod and piston must go back into theoriginal bore. If new pistons are being used, itis only necessary to ensure that the rightconnecting rod is placed in each bore.

Gudgeon pins retained by clamp bolts30 Locate the small-end of the connectingrod in the piston with the marking “FRONT”on the piston crown towards the front of theengine and the hole for the gudgeon pin boltin the connecting rod towards the camshaft.31 Note the indentation in the centre of thegudgeon pin, and insert the pin in the

connecting rod, so that the indentation linesup with the clamp bolt hole in such a way thatthe bolt will pass through without touching thegudgeon pin.32 For the gudgeon pin to fit correctly, itshould slide in three quarters of its travel quitefreely and for the remaining quarter have to betapped in with a plastic or wooden headedhammer. If the piston is heated in water thenthe pin will slide in the remaining quartereasily. 33 Fit a new spring washer under the head ofthe connecting rod bolt and secure it intoposition to the specified torque. Repeat thisprocedure for the remaining pistons andconnecting rods.

Fully floating gudgeon pins34 Fit a gudgeon pin circlip in position at oneend of the gudgeon pin hole in the piston.35 Locate the connecting rod in the pistonwith the marking “FRONT” on the pistoncrown towards the front of the engine, and theconnecting rod big-end caps towards thecamshaft side of the engine.36 Slide the gudgeon pin in through the holein the piston and through the connecting rodsmall-end until it rests against the previouslyfitted circlip. Note that the pin should be apush fit.37 Fit the second circlip in position. Repeatthis procedure for the remaining pistons andconnecting rods.

Interference fit gudgeon pins38 As stated previously, removal and refittingof the gudgeon pin on these engines is adelicate operation requiring the use of specialtools. This task must be entrusted to a Roverdealer or engine repair specialist.

12 Crankshaft - removal andinspection 3

Removal1 With reference to Part A of this Chapter,and earlier Sections of this Part as applicable,carry out the following:a) Separate the engine from the

transmission.b) Remove the cylinder head.c) Remove the piston/connecting rod

assemblies.d) Remove the timing cover, chain, tensioner

and sprockets.e) Remove the camshaft locating plate and

engine front plate.Note: If no work is to be done on the pistonsand connecting rods, then removal of thecylinder head and pistons will not benecessary. Instead, after disconnecting theconnecting rods from the crankshaft, thepistons need only be pushed far enough upthe bores so that they are positioned clear ofthe crankpins.


11.19 Identification markings on the piston crown

11.22 Gudgeon pin clamped in place by apinch-bolt (848 cc)

2 Before removing the crankshaft it isadvisable to check the endfloat using a dialgauge in contact with the end of thecrankshaft. Push the crankshaft fully one way,and then zero the gauge. Push the crankshaftfully the other way, and check the endfloat.The result can be compared with the specifiedamount, and will give an indication as towhether new thrustwashers are required.3 If a dial gauge is not available, feeler bladescan be used. First push the crankshaft fullytowards the flywheel end of the engine, thenuse feeler blades to measure the gap betweenthe web of the crankpin and the thrustwasher(see illustration).4 If identification marks are not present onthe main bearing caps, mark them suitably sothat they may be refitted in their originalpositions and the correct way round.5 Release the locktabs from the six boltswhich hold the three main bearing caps inplace. Note that locktabs are not used on1275 cc engines.6 Unscrew the bolts and remove themtogether with the locktabs.7 Remove the main bearing caps and thebottom half of each bearing shell, taking careto keep the bearing shells in the right caps. 8 When removing the centre bearing cap,note the bottom semi-circular halves of thethrustwashers - one half lying on each side ofthe main bearing. Lay them with the centrebearing along the correct side (seeillustration).9 Slightly rotate the crankshaft to free theupper halves of the bearing shells andthrustwashers, which should now beextracted and placed over the correct bearingcap.10 Remove the crankshaft by lifting it awayfrom the crankcase (see illustration).

Inspection11 Clean the crankshaft using paraffin or asuitable solvent, and dry it, preferably withcompressed air if available. Be sure to cleanthe oil holes with a pipe cleaner or similarprobe, to ensure that they are not obstructed.

Warning: Wear eye protectionwhen using compressed air!

12 Check the main and big-end bearingjournals for uneven wear, scoring, pitting andcracking.13 Big-end bearing wear is accompanied bydistinct metallic knocking when the engine isrunning (particularly noticeable when theengine is pulling from low speed) and someloss of oil pressure.14 Main bearing wear is accompanied bysevere engine vibration and rumble - gettingprogressively worse as engine speedincreases - and again by loss of oil pressure.15 Check the bearing journal for roughnessby running a finger lightly over the bearingsurface. Any roughness (which will beaccompanied by obvious bearing wear)

indicates that the crankshaft requiresregrinding (where possible) or renewal.16 If the crankshaft has been reground,check for burrs around the crankshaft oilholes (the holes are usually chamfered, soburrs should not be a problem unlessregrinding has been carried out carelessly).Remove any burrs with a fine file or scraper,and thoroughly clean the oil holes asdescribed previously.17 Using a micrometer, measure thediameter of the main and big-end bearingjournals, and compare the results with theSpecifications (see illustration). Bymeasuring the diameter at a number of pointsaround each journal’s circumference, you willbe able to determine whether or not thejournal is out-of-round. Take themeasurement at each end of the journal, nearthe webs, to determine if the journal istapered. No actual figures are quoted by themanufacturer for crankshaft journal ovality ortaper but a figure of 0.025 mm should beconsidered the maximum acceptable for anengine of this type. If in doubt, seek theadvice of a Rover dealer or engine specialist.18 Check the oil seal contact surfaces ateach end of the crankshaft for wear anddamage. If the seal has worn a deep groove inthe surface of the crankshaft, consult anengine overhaul specialist; repair may bepossible, but otherwise a new crankshaft willbe required.19 If the crankshaft journals have not beenreground to their minimum regrind diameter, itmay be possible to have the crankshaftreconditioned, and to fit oversize bearing

shells (see Section 14). If the crankshaft hasworn beyond the specified limits, it will haveto be renewed. Consult your Rover dealer orengine specialist as to the best course ofaction.

13 Cylinder block/crankcase -cleaning and inspection 3

Cleaning1 Remove all external components andelectrical switches/sensors from the block.2 Scrape all traces of gasket from the cylinderblock/crankcase, taking care not to damagethe gasket/sealing surfaces.3 Remove all oil gallery plugs (where fitted).The plugs are usually very tight - they mayhave to be drilled out, and the holes re-tapped. Use new plugs when the engine isreassembled.4 If the block is extremely dirty, it should besteam-cleaned.5 After the block is returned, clean all oilholes and oil galleries one more time. Flush allinternal passages with warm water until thewater runs clear. Dry thoroughly, and apply alight film of oil to all mating surfaces, toprevent rusting., also oil the cylinder bores. Ifyou have access to compressed air, use it tospeed up the drying process, and to blow outall the oil holes and galleries.

Warning: Wear eye protectionwhen using compressed air!


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12.3 Checking crankshaft endfloat usingfeeler blades

12.8 Main bearing cap with thrustwashersin position

12.10 Carefully lift out the crankshaft 12.17 Use a micrometer to measure thecrankshaft bearing journal diameters

6 If the cylinder block is not very dirty, youcan do an adequate cleaning job with hot (ashot as you can stand!), soapy water and a stiffbrush. Take plenty of time, and do a thoroughjob. Regardless of the cleaning method used,be sure to clean all oil holes and galleries verythoroughly, and to dry all components well.Protect the cylinder bores as describedabove, to prevent rusting.7 All threaded holes must be clean, to ensureaccurate torque readings during reassembly.To clean the threads, run the correct-size tapinto each of the holes to remove rust,corrosion, thread sealant or sludge, and torestore damaged threads (see illustration). Ifpossible, use compressed air to clear theholes of debris produced by this operation.8 Apply suitable sealant to the new oil galleryplugs, and insert them into the holes in theblock. Tighten them securely.9 If the engine is not going to be reassembledright away, cover it with a large plastic bag tokeep it clean; protect all mating surfaces andthe cylinder bores as described above, toprevent rusting.

Inspection10 Visually check the castings for cracks andcorrosion. Look for stripped threads in thethreaded holes. If there has been any historyof internal water leakage, it may be worthwhilehaving an engine overhaul specialist checkthe cylinder block/crankcase with specialequipment. If defects are found, have themrepaired if possible, or renew the assembly.11 Check each cylinder bore for scuffing andscoring. Check for signs of a wear ridge at thetop of the cylinder, indicating that the bore isexcessively worn.12 If the necessary measuring equipment isavailable, measure the bore diameter of eachcylinder at the top (just under the wear ridge),centre, and bottom of the cylinder bore,parallel to the crankshaft axis (seeillustration).

13 Next, measure the bore diameter at thesame three locations, at right-angles to thecrankshaft axis. As no tolerance figures areactually stated by Rover, if there is any doubtabout the condition of the cylinder bores,seek the advice of a Rover dealer or suitableengine reconditioning specialist.14 Having measured the cylinder bores,subtract the piston diameters measuredpreviously to obtain the piston-to-boreclearance for each cylinder. If the clearancesare outside the tolerance range then, assumingthat the cylinder bores are satisfactory, it will benecessary to fit new pistons of the correct size.If this is the case, the bores should be honed,to allow the new rings to bed in correctly andprovide the best possible seal. Honing is anoperation that will be carried out for you by anengine reconditioning specialist.

15 If the cylinder bores are not in perfectcondition, and providing they have not alreadybeen rebored to their maximum oversize limit,it should be possible to rectify any problemsfound by having the cylinder bores reboredand to fit matching oversize pistons.16 After all machining operations arecompleted, the entire block/crankcase mustbe washed very thoroughly with warm soapywater to remove all traces of abrasive gritproduced during the machining operations.When the cylinder block/crankcase iscompletely clean, rinse it thoroughly and dryit, then lightly oil all exposed machinedsurfaces, to prevent rusting.

14 Main and big-end bearings -inspection and selection 3

Inspection1 Even though the main and big-end bearingshells should be renewed during the engineoverhaul, the old shells should be retained forclose examination, as they may revealvaluable information about the condition ofthe engine.2 Bearing failure occurs because of lack oflubrication, the presence of dirt or otherforeign particles, overloading the engine, andcorrosion (see illustration). Regardless of thecause of bearing failure, the cause must becorrected (where applicable) before theengine is reassembled, to prevent it fromhappening again.3 When examining the bearing shells, removethem from the cylinder block/crankcase andmain bearing caps, and from the connectingrods and the big-end bearing caps, then laythem out on a clean surface in the samegeneral position as their location in theengine. This will enable you to match anybearing problems with the correspondingcrankshaft journal. Do not touch any shell’s


14.2 Typical bearing failures

13.7 Using a tap to restore cylinder block threads 13.12 Using a bore gauge to check for cylinder bore wear

bearing surface with your fingers whilechecking it, or the delicate surface may bescratched.4 Dirt or other foreign matter gets into theengine in a variety of ways. It may be left inthe engine during assembly, or it may passthrough filters or the crankcase ventilationsystem. It may get into the oil, and from thereinto the bearings. Metal chips from machiningoperations and normal engine wear are oftenpresent. Abrasives are sometimes left inengine components after reconditioning,especially when parts are not thoroughlycleaned using the proper cleaning methods.Whatever the source, these foreign objectsoften end up embedded in the soft bearingmaterial, and are easily recognised. Largeparticles will not embed in the material, andwill score or gouge the shell and journal. Thebest prevention for this cause of bearingfailure is to clean all parts thoroughly, and tokeep everything spotlessly-clean duringengine assembly. Frequent and regular engineoil and filter changes are also recommended.5 Lack of lubrication (or lubricationbreakdown) has a number of inter-relatedcauses. Excessive heat (which thins the oil),overloading (which squeezes the oil from thebearing face) and oil leakage (from excessivebearing clearances, worn oil pump or highengine speeds) all contribute to lubricationbreakdown. Blocked oil passages, whichusually are the result of misaligned oil holes ina bearing shell, will also starve a bearing of oil,and destroy it. When lack of lubrication is thecause of bearing failure, the bearing materialis wiped or extruded from the shell’s steelbacking. Temperatures may increase to thepoint where the steel backing turns blue fromoverheating.6 Driving habits can have a definite effect onbearing life. Full-throttle, low-speed operation(labouring the engine) puts very high loads onbearings, which tends to squeeze out the oilfilm. These loads cause the shells to flex,which produces fine cracks in the bearingface (fatigue failure). Eventually, the bearingmaterial will loosen in pieces, and tear awayfrom the steel backing.7 Short-distance driving leads to corrosion ofbearings, because insufficient engine heat isproduced to drive off condensed water andcorrosive gases. These products collect in theengine oil, forming acid and sludge. As the oilis carried to the engine bearings, the acidattacks and corrodes the bearing material.8 Incorrect shell refitting during engineassembly will lead to bearing failure as well.Tight-fitting shells leave insufficient bearingrunning clearance, and will result in oilstarvation. Dirt or foreign particles trappedbehind a bearing shell result in high spots onthe bearing, which lead to failure.9 Do not touch any shell’s bearing surfacewith your fingers during reassembly; there is arisk of scratching the delicate surface, or ofdepositing particles of dirt on it.

Selection - main and big-endbearings10 Main and big-end bearings for themajority of the engines described in thisChapter are available in one standard sizeand, on earlier engines, in a range ofundersizes to suit reground crankshafts.11 Selective standard size main bearings arefitted to later 998 cc and 1275 cc engines.Red (R), Green (G) or Yellow (Y) codes areused to identify the bearings, and the coloursor “RGY” stamp will be found on the mainbearing caps and the corresponding web ofthe crankshaft. The bearing shells are alsoidentified in the same way. Undersize mainand big-end bearings are no longer availablefrom Rover dealers for these engines.12 The relevant set of bearing shells requiredcan be obtained by measuring the diameter ofthe crankshaft main bearing journals (seeSection 12). This will show if the crankshaft isoriginal or whether its journals have beenreground, identifying if either standard oroversize bearing shells are required.13 If access to the necessary measuringequipment cannot be gained, the size of thebearing shells can be identified by themarkings stamped on the rear of each shell.Details of these markings should be suppliedto your Rover dealer who will then be able toidentify the size of shell fitted.14 Whether the original shells or new shellsare being fitted, it is recommended that therunning clearance is checked as described inSection 17 prior to installation.

15 Engine overhaul - reassemblysequence

1 Before reassembly begins, ensure that allnew parts have been obtained, and that allnecessary tools are available. Read throughthe entire procedure to familiarise yourselfwith the work involved, and to ensure that allitems necessary for reassembly of the engineare at hand.2 In order to save time and avoid problems,engine reassembly can be carried out in thefollowing order:

a) Crankshaft (Section 17).b) Piston rings (Section 16)c) Piston/connecting rod assemblies

(Section 18).d) Oil pump (Section 10).e) Oil filter housing and delivery pipe (Part A

of this Chapter).f) Oil pressure relief valve (Part A of this

Chapter).g) Camshaft and tappets (Section 9).h) Cylinder head (Part A of this Chapter).i) Timing chain, sprockets and tensioner

(Part A of this Chapter).j) Distributor driveshaft (Part A of this

Chapter).k) Engine external components.

3 At this stage, all engine components shouldbe absolutely clean and dry, with all faultsrepaired. The components should be laid out(or in individual containers) on a completelyclean work surface.

16 Piston rings - refitting 21 Before fitting new piston rings, the ring endgaps must be checked as follows.2 Lay out the piston/connecting rodassemblies and the new piston ring sets, sothat the ring sets will be matched with thesame piston and cylinder during the end gapmeasurement and subsequent enginereassembly.3 Insert the top ring into the first cylinder, andpush it down the bore using the top of thepiston. This will ensure that the ring remainssquare with the cylinder walls. Position thering near the bottom of the cylinder bore, atthe lower limit of ring travel. On engines withtapered second and third compression rings,the top narrow side of the ring is marked witha “T”, or the word “TOP” (see illustration).4 Measure the end gap using feeler blades.5 Repeat the procedure with the ring at thetop of the cylinder bore, at the upper limit ofits travel, and compare the measurementswith the figures given in the Specifications.6 If the gap is too small (unlikely if genuineRover parts are used), it must be enlarged, orthe ring ends may contact each other duringengine operation, causing serious damage.Ideally, new piston rings providing the correctend gap should be fitted. As a last resort, theend gap can be increased by filing the ringends very carefully with a fine file. Mount thefile in a vice equipped with soft jaws, slip thering over the file with the ends contacting thefile face, and slowly move the ring to removematerial from the ends. Take care, as pistonrings are sharp, and are easily broken.7 With new piston rings, it is unlikely that theend gap will be too large. If the gaps are toolarge, check that you have the correct ringsfor your engine and for the particular cylinderbore size.


2B

16.3 Piston ring identification markings

8 Repeat the checking procedure for eachring in the first cylinder, and then for the ringsin the remaining cylinders. Remember to keeprings, pistons and cylinders matched up.9 Once the ring end gaps have been checkedand if necessary corrected, the rings can befitted to the pistons.10 Fit the piston rings using the sametechnique as for removal. Fit the bottom (oilcontrol) ring first, and work up. When fitting athree piece oil control ring, first insert theexpander and position its gap in line with thecentre of the gudgeon pin. Fit the scraperrings with their gaps positioned either side ofthe expander gap. Where the oil controlscraper is of one-piece type, position its gap180° from the expander gap. Ensure that thesecond and third compression rings are fittedthe correct way up, with their identificationmark (either a “T” or the word “TOP” stampedon the ring surface) at the top (seeillustrations). Carefully examine all rings forthis mark before fitting. Arrange the gaps ofthe compression rings equally around thepiston. Note: Always follow any instructionssupplied with the new piston ring sets -different manufacturers may specify differentprocedures. Do not mix up the top andsecond compression rings, as they havedifferent cross-sections.

17 Crankshaft - refitting andrunning clearance check 3

1 Crankshaft refitting is the first stage ofengine reassembly following overhaul. It isassumed at this point that the cylinderblock/crankcase and crankshaft have beencleaned, inspected and repaired orreconditioned as necessary.

2 Position the cylinder block on a clean levelwork surface, with the crankcase facingupwards. Unbolt the bearing caps andcarefully release them from the crankcase; laythem out in order to ensure correctreassembly. If they’re still in place, remove theold bearing shells from the caps andcrankcase and wipe out the inner surfaceswith a clean rag - they must be kept spotlesslyclean.3 Clean the backs of the bearing shells andinsert them into position in the crankcase. Ifthe original bearing shells are being used forthe check, ensure that they are refitted in theiroriginal locations. Press the shells home sothat the tangs engage in the recessesprovided. When fitting the rear main bearingshell, it may be found that the cylinder blockoilway is offset from the corresponding hole inthe bearing shell. This condition is acceptableas long as a 2.3 mm diameter steel rod can beinserted into the exposed section of the hole.4 Give the newly fitted bearing shells and thecrankshaft journals a final clean with a rag.Check that the oil holes in the crankshaft arefree from dirt, as any left here will becomeembedded in the new bearings when theengine is started.5 Carefully lay the crankshaft in thecrankcase taking care not to dislodge thebearing shells.

Running clearance check6 When the crankshaft and bearings arefitted, a clearance must exist between them toallow lubricant to circulate. This clearance isimpossible to check using feeler blades, soPlastigage is used. This consists of a finethread of perfectly round plastic which iscompressed between the bearing shell andthe journal when the bearing caps aretightened up. When the cap and shell is

removed, the plastic is deformed and can bemeasured with a special card gauge suppliedwith the kit. The running clearance isdetermined from this gauge. The procedurefor using Plastigage is as follows.7 Cut off three lengths of Plastigage (theyshould be slightly shorter than the width of themain bearings) and place one length on eachcrankshaft journal axis (see illustration).8 Wipe the inner surface of the bearing capsand the backs of the lower bearing shells andfit the three bearing shells to their caps. Pressthe shells home so that the tangs engage inthe recesses provided.9 Ensure that all six tubular locating dowelsare firmly in place, one on each side of theupper halves of the three main bearings, andthen fit the main bearing caps in positionensuring that they locate properly on thedowels. Tighten their retaining bolts to thespecified torque. Take care not to disturb thePlastigage and do not rotate the crankshaft atany time during this operation.10 Remove the main bearing caps againtaking great care not to disturb the Plastigageor rotate the crankshaft.


16.10a Piston ring identification - 850, 1000 and 1100 models

1 Chrome platedcompression ring

2 Taper compression ring3 Taper compression ring

4 Top rail5 Expander6 Side spring7 Bottom rail

16.10b Correct assembly of oil control ring - 1275 models

1 Bottom rail2 Expander

3 Oil control ring rail4 Top rail

17.7 Plastigage in place on main bearingjournal

11 Compare the width of the crushedPlastigage on each journal to the scale printedon the Plastigage envelope to obtain the mainbearing running clearance (see illustration).Use the correct scale as both imperial andmetric are printed. Compare the clearancemeasured with the running clearancedimension given in the Specifications.12 If the clearance is significantly differentfrom that expected, the bearing shells may bethe wrong size (or excessively worn if theoriginal shells are being re-used). Beforedeciding that the crankshaft is worn, makesure that no dirt or oil was trapped betweenthe bearing shells and the caps or block whenthe clearance was measured. If the Plastigagewas wider at one end than at the other, thecrankshaft journal may be tapered.13 Before condemning the componentsconcerned, seek the advice of your Roverdealer or suitable engine repair specialist.They will also be able to inform as to the bestcourse of action and whether it is possible tohave the crankshaft journals reground orwhether renewal will be necessary.14 Where necessary, obtain the correct size ofbearing shell and repeat the running clearancechecking procedure as described above.15 On completion, carefully scrape away alltraces of the Plastigage material from thecrankshaft and bearing shells using afingernail or other object which is unlikely toscore the bearing surfaces.

Crankshaft - final refitting16 Lift the crankshaft out of the crankcase.Wipe the surfaces of the bearings in thecrankcase and the bearing caps.17 Wipe the recesses either side of thecentre main bearings which locate the upperhalves of the thrustwashers.18 Generously lubricate the crankshaftjournals and the upper and lower mainbearing shells with clean engine oil andcarefully place the crankshaft in position.19 Introduce the upper halves of thethrustwashers (the halves without tabs) into theirgrooves on each side of the centre main bearing(see illustration), rotating the crankshaft in thedirection towards the main bearing tabs (so thatthe main bearing shells do not slide out). At thesame time feed the thrustwashers into theirlocations with their oil grooves facing outwardsaway from the bearing.20 Ensure that all six tubular locating dowelsare still firmly in place, one on each side of theupper halves of the three main bearings, andthen fit the main bearing caps in positionensuring that they locate properly on thedowels. The mating surfaces must be spotlesslyclean or the caps will not seat properly.21 When refitting the centre main bearingcap, ensure that the thrustwashers,generously lubricated, are fitted with their oilgrooves facing outwards, and the locating tabof each washer is in the slot in the bearing cap.22 Refit the one-piece locking tabs over themain bearing caps (where applicable) and refitthe main bearing cap bolts, screwing them upfinger-tight initially, then finally tightening tothe torque setting given in the Specifications(see illustration).23 Test the crankshaft for freedom ofrotation. Should it be very stiff to turn orpossess high spots, re-check the runningclearances as described above.24 Carry out a check of the crankshaftendfloat as described in Section 12. If thethrust surfaces of the crankshaft have beenchecked and new thrustwashers have beenfitted, then the endfloat should be withinspecification.

25 When all is satisfactory, secure the mainbearing bolts by knocking up the locking tabs(where applicable) with a small chisel.

18 Piston/connecting rodassemblies - refitting and big-end bearing clearance check 3

Note: At this point it is assumed that thecrankshaft has been refitted to the engine asdescribed in Section 17.

Big-end bearing runningclearance check1 Clean the backs of the bearing shells, andthe bearing locations in both the connectingrod and bearing cap.2 Press the bearing shells into their locations,ensuring that the tab on each shell engages inthe notch in the connecting rod and cap. If theoriginal bearing shells are being used for thecheck, ensure that they are refitted in theiroriginal locations.3 As with the main bearings (Section 17), arunning clearance must exist between the big-end crankpin and its bearing shells to allow oilto circulate. There are two methods ofchecking the running clearance as describedin the following paragraphs.4 One method is to refit the big-end bearingcap to the connecting rod, with the bearingshells in place. With the cap retaining nuts orbolts correctly tightened, use an internalmicrometer or vernier caliper to measure theinternal diameter of each assembled pair ofbearing shells. If the diameter of eachcorresponding crankshaft journal is measuredand then subtracted from the bearing internaldiameter, the result will be the big-endbearing running clearance.5 The second, and more accurate method isto use Plastigage (see Section 17).6 Ensure that the bearing shells are correctlyfitted. Place a strand of Plastigage on each(cleaned) crankpin journal.7 Temporarily refit the (clean) piston/connecting rod assemblies to the crankshaft,


2B

17.22 Tighten the main bearing cap boltsto the specified torque

17.11 Measuring the width of the deformed Plastigage using thecard gauge supplied

17.19 Refitting the crankshaft thrustwasher upper halves

and refit the big-end bearing caps, using themarks made or noted on removal to ensurethat they are fitted the correct way around.8 Tighten the bearing cap nuts or bolts to thespecified torque. Take care not to disturb thePlastigage, nor rotate the connecting rodduring the tightening sequence.9 Dismantle the assemblies without rotatingthe connecting rods. Use the scale printed onthe Plastigage envelope to obtain the big-endbearing running clearance. Use the correctscale as both imperial and metric are printed.10 If the clearance is significantly differentfrom that given in the Specifications, thebearing shells may be the wrong size (orexcessively worn, if the original shells arebeing re-used). Make sure that no dirt or oilwas trapped between the bearing shells andthe caps or block when the clearance wasmeasured. If the Plastigage was wider at oneend than at the other, the crankshaft journalmay be tapered.11 Before condemning the componentsconcerned, refer to your Rover dealer or enginereconditioning specialist for their advice on thebest course of action to be taken.12 On completion, carefully scrape away alltraces of the Plastigage material from thecrankshaft and bearing shells. Use yourfingernail, or some other object which isunlikely to score the bearing surfaces.

Piston/connecting rodassemblies - final refitting13 Ensure that the bearing shells are correctlyfitted as described earlier. Wipe dry the shellsand connecting rods with a clean cloth.14 Lubricate the cylinder bores, the pistons,and piston rings, then lay out eachpiston/connecting rod assembly in itsrespective position.15 Start with assembly No 1. Make sure that

the piston rings are still spaced as describedin Section 16, then clamp them in positionwith a piston ring compressor.16 Insert the piston/connecting rod assemblyinto the top of cylinder No 1. Ensure that it isthe correct piston/connecting rod assemblyfor that particular bore, that the connecting rodis the right way round, and that the front of thepiston is towards the front of the engine. Usinga block of wood or hammer handle against thepiston crown, tap the assembly into thecylinder until the piston crown is flush with thetop of the cylinder (see illustration).17 Ensure that the bearing shell is stillcorrectly installed. Liberally lubricate thecrankpin and both bearing shells. Taking carenot to mark the cylinder bores, pull thepiston/connecting rod assembly down thebore and onto the crankpin. As the big-endbosses on the connecting rods are offset, itwill be obvious if they have been inserted thewrong way round because they will not fit overthe crankpin. The centre two rods must befitted with their offset bosses facing awayfrom the centre main bearing, and theconnecting rods at each extremity of theengine must be fitted with their offset bosses

facing inwards (see illustration). Fit the big-end cap and retaining bolts with the one-piece locking tab under them (whereapplicable) and tighten the bolts to thespecified torque. On 1275 cc engines thearrangement is slightly different, the capsbeing retained by nuts.18 Once the bearing cap retaining nuts orbolts have been correctly tightened, rotate thecrankshaft. Check that it turns freely; somestiffness is to be expected if new componentshave been fitted, but there should be no signsof binding or tight spots.19 Refit the remaining three piston/connecting rod assemblies in the same way.

19 Engine - initial start-up afteroverhaul and reassembly 2

1 Refit the remainder of the enginecomponents in the order listed in Section 15of this Chapter, referring to Part A wherenecessary. Reconnect the engine to thetransmission (Section 5 or 6 as applicable),then refit the power unit to the car asdescribed in Section 3.2 With the engine/transmission refitted,double-check the engine oil and coolantlevels. Make a final check that everything hasbeen reconnected, and that there are no toolsor rags left in the engine compartment.3 Remove the spark plugs. Disable theignition system by disconnecting the ignitionHT coil lead from the distributor cap, andearthing it on the cylinder block. Use a jumperlead or similar wire to make a goodconnection.4 Turn the engine on the starter until the oilpressure warning light goes out. Refit thespark plugs, and reconnect the spark plug anddistributor (HT) leads, referring to Chapter 1 forfurther information.5 Start the engine, noting that this may take alittle longer than usual, due to the fuel systemcomponents having been disturbed.6 While the engine is idling, check for fuel,water and oil leaks. Don’t be alarmed if thereare some odd smells and smoke from partsgetting hot and burning off oil deposits.7 Assuming all is well, keep the engine idlinguntil hot water is felt circulating through thetop hose, then switch off the engine.8 Check the ignition timing and the idle speedsettings (as appropriate), then switch theengine off.9 After a few minutes, recheck the oil andcoolant levels as described in Chapter 1, andtop-up as necessary.10 If new pistons, rings or crankshaftbearings have been fitted, the engine must betreated as new, and run-in for the first 500miles (800 km). Do not operate the engine atfull-throttle, or allow it to labour at low enginespeeds in any gear. It is recommended thatthe oil and filter be changed at the end of thisperiod.


18.16 Refitting a piston with a piston ringclamp in position

18.17 The correct positions of the offsets on the connecting rod big-ends

3

Chapter 3Cooling, heating and ventilation systems

GeneralSystem type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Pressurised, water pump assisted, thermo-syphonRadiator filler/pressure cap setting:

Pre-1974 models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.91 bar1974 models onward . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.05 bar

ThermostatType . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . WaxOpening temperatures:

Pre-1976 models:Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 82ºCHot climates . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74ºCCold climates . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 88ºC

1976 models onward:Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 88ºC

Auxiliary cooling fanThermostatic switch settings:

Switches on at . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 98ºCSwitches off at . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 93ºC

Torque wrench settings Nm lbf ftWater pump . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19 to 25 14 to 18Thermostat housing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 to 12 6 to 9Auxiliary cooling fan thermostatic switch - Cooper models . . . . . . . . . . 10 7

Antifreeze - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3Auxiliary cooling fan - general information, removal and refitting . . . 7Auxiliary cooling fan thermostatic switch - removal, testing and

refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8Coolant level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See “Weekly Checks”Cooling system - draining . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1Cooling system - filling . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1Cooling system - flushing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1Cooling system hoses - disconnection and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2Fan belt check and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1

Fresh air vent assembly - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13General information and precautions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1Heater assembly - dismantling and reassembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12Heater assembly - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11Heater water valve - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10Heater water valve control cable - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . 9Radiator - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4Thermostat - removal, testing and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5Water pump - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6

3•1

Specifications

Contents







54321

1 General information andprecautions

The cooling system is of the conventionalpressurised, water pump-assisted thermo-syphon type comprising a radiator, waterpump, thermostat and associated hoses.Radiator cooling is provided by a fan mountedon the water pump and driven by a V-belt fromthe crankshaft pulley. An auxiliary electriccooling fan is fitted to later 1275 cc enginemodels. It is located beneath the left-hand frontwheel arch, and provides an additional sourceof cooling for the radiator in conjunction withthe belt-driven fan on the water pump.

The cooling system functions by circulatingcold coolant from the bottom of the radiator,up the lower radiator hose to the water pumpwhere it is pumped around the waterpassages in the cylinder block.

The coolant then travels up into the cylinderhead and circulates around the combustionchambers and valve seats. When the engine isat its correct operating temperature, the coolanttravels out of the cylinder head, past the openthermostat, into the hose and so into the toptank of the radiator. The coolant travels downthe radiator where it is rapidly cooled by therush of cold air through the radiator core. As theradiator is mounted next to the wheel arch, thefan pushes cold air through the radiator matrix.The coolant, now cool, reaches the bottom ofthe radiator where the cycle is repeated.

When the engine is cold, the thermostat(which is simply a temperature sensitivevalve), maintains the circulation of coolant inthe engine by blocking the passage from thecylinder head to the radiator. The coolant isthen forced to return to the cylinder blockthrough the bypass hose. Only when theopening temperature of the thermostat hasbeen reached, does the thermostat allow thecoolant to return to the radiator.

A basic heating and ventilation system isfitted which supplies warm or cold air to eitherthe windscreen or car interior. A two-speedblower fan is fitted to supplement the airflowas required. Fresh air ventilation is providedby controllable air vents, located below thewindscreen on each side of the car. Thesevents are independent of the mainheater/blower unit and provide ambient airwhen the car is moving. The volume of airsupplied is dependent on road speed.

PrecautionsWarning: Do not attempt toremove the radiator filler cap, orto disturb any part of the coolingsystem, while it or the engine is

hot, as there is a very great risk of scalding.If the filler cap must be removed before theengine and radiator have fully cooled down(even though this is not recommended) thepressure in the cooling system must firstbe released. Cover the cap with a thick

layer of cloth, to avoid scalding, and slowlyunscrew the filler cap until a hissing soundcan be heard. When the hissing hasstopped, showing that pressure isreleased, slowly unscrew the filler capfurther until it can be removed; if morehissing sounds are heard, wait until theyhave stopped before unscrewing the capcompletely. At all times, keep well awayfrom the filler opening.

Warning: Do not allow antifreezeto come in contact with yourskin, or with the paintedsurfaces of the vehicle. Rinse off

spills immediately with plenty of water.Never leave antifreeze lying around in anopen container, or in a puddle in thedriveway or on the garage floor. Childrenand pets are attracted by its sweet smell,but antifreeze is fatal if ingested.

2 Cooling system hoses -disconnection and renewal 1

Note: Refer to the warnings given in Section 1of this Chapter before proceeding. Hosesshould only be disconnected once the enginehas cooled sufficiently to avoid scalding.1 If the checks described in Chapter 1 reveala faulty hose, it must be renewed as follows.2 First drain the cooling system (Chapter 1); ifthe antifreeze is not due for renewal, thedrained coolant may be re-used, if it iscollected in a clean container.3 To disconnect the main system hoses, use apair of pliers to release the spring clamps (or ascrewdriver to slacken screw-type clamps),then move them along the hose clear of theunion. Carefully work the hose off its stubs. Thehoses can be removed with relative ease whennew - on an older vehicle, they may have stuck.4 If a hose proves to be difficult to remove, tryto release it by rotating it on its unions beforeattempting to work it off. Gently prise the endof the hose with a blunt instrument (such as aflat-bladed screwdriver), but do not apply toomuch force, and take care not to damage thepipe stubs or hoses. Note in particular that theradiator hose unions are fragile; do not useexcessive force when attempting to removethe hoses.

5 When refitting a hose, first slide the clampsonto the hose, then engage the hose with itsunions. Work the hose into position, thencheck that the hose is settled correctly and isproperly routed. Slide each clip along thehose until it is behind the union flared end,before tightening it securely.

6 Renewal of the by-pass hose (fittedbetween the top of the water pump and theunderside of the cylinder head) is an awkwardand tedious task which often presentsproblems. The easiest way to refit a bypasshose is to first place both clips in position onthe hose. Fit the bottom of the hose to thewater pump, bend the hose in half and thenplace the flat faces of a knife or feeler bladeover the top of the hose and outlet in thecylinder head. Push the hose into an uprightposition and withdraw the blade. The hoseshould now be in position over the outlet.Several attempts may be necessary beforethe hose slides properly into position.7 Refill the system with coolant (Chapter 1).8 Check carefully for leaks as soon aspossible after disturbing any part of thecooling system.

3 Antifreeze - generalinformation

Note: Refer to the warnings given in Section 1of this Chapter before proceeding.1 The cooling system should be filled with awater/ethylene glycol-based antifreezesolution, of a strength which will preventfreezing down to at least -25ºC, or lower if thelocal climate requires it. Antifreeze alsoprovides protection against corrosion, andincreases the coolant boiling point. As with allmixed metal engines, the corrosion protectionproperties of the antifreeze are critical. Only atop quality antifreeze should be used in thesystem and should never be mixed withdifferent antifreeze types.2 The cooling system should be maintainedaccording to the schedule described inChapter 1. If antifreeze is used that is not toRover’s specification, old or contaminatedcoolant mixtures are likely to cause damage,and encourage the formation of corrosion andscale in the system.3 Before adding antifreeze, check all hosesand hose connections, because antifreezetends to leak through very small openings.Engines don’t normally consume coolant, so ifthe level goes down, find the cause andcorrect it.4 Ideally, at least a 30% mixture of antifreezeand clean soft water (by volume) should beused to maintain maximum protection againstfreezing and corrosion. Mix the requiredquantity in a clean container and then fill thesystem as described in Chapter 1, and“Weekly Checks”. Save any surplus mixturefor topping-up.

3•2 Cooling, heating and ventilation systems

If all else fails, cut the hosewith a sharp knife, then slit itso that it can be peeled off intwo pieces. Although this

may prove expensive if the hose isotherwise undamaged, it is preferableto buying a new radiator.

If the hose is stiff, use a littlesoapy water as a lubricant,or soften the hose bysoaking it in hot water. Do

not use oil or grease, which may attackthe rubber.

4 Radiator - removal andrefitting 2

Note: Refer to the warnings given in Section 1of this Chapter before proceeding.

Removal1 Drain the cooling system as described inChapter 1. 2 Refer to Chapter 11 and remove thebonnet.3 Slacken the two retaining clips andcompletely remove the radiator top hose.4 If the bottom hose was not removed fordraining, slacken the retaining clip, using along thin screwdriver, and pull the hose off theradiator outlet.5 Undo and remove the bolts and nutssecuring the radiator upper support bracket to

the fan cowling and thermostat housing. Liftaway the bracket (see illustration).6 On later 1275 cc engines (exceptcarburettor engine Cooper models)disconnect the wiring connectors at theauxiliary cooling fan thermostatic switch in thebottom corner of the radiator.7 At the base of the radiator undo andremove either the long through-bolt or the twoshort bolts (depending on model) that securethe lower support bracket to the enginemounting (see illustration). If necessaryremove the front grille panel as described inChapter 11 to provide greater access.

Cooling, heating and ventilation systems 3•3

3

4.5 Exploded view of radiator andattachments

1 Filler cap2 Radiator3 Drain tap adapter4 Drain tap or plug5 Rubber surround6 Overflow pipe7 Retaining clip8 Cowl fixing screw9 Nut10 Cowl (one piece type)11 Cowl (upper - two piece

type)12 Cowl (lower - two-piece

type)13 Bottom hose (non-

heater type)14 Bottom hose (heater

type)15 Hose clip16 Upper mounting17 Bolt18 Washer19 Rubber grommet20 Lower mounting21 Bolt22 Washer23 Rubber grommet24 Washer25 Bolt26 Top hose

If leakage is the reason forwanting to remove the radiator,bear in mind that minor leakscan often be cured using a

radiator sealant with the radiator in situ.

8 Undo and remove the bolts securing the fancowlings to the radiator, move the cowlingsas far as possible toward the engine andcarefully lift out the radiator. If a two piececowling is fitted, lift off the top half.

Refitting9 Refitting is the reverse sequence toremoval. Apply a little rubber grease or liquiddetergent to the inside diameter of the hoses,to allow them to be refitted more easily.10 With the radiator in position, refill thecooling system as described in Chapter 1,and refit the bonnet and (if removed) the frontgrille panel as described in Chapter 11.

5 Thermostat - removal, testingand refitting 2


Removal1 Partially drain the cooling system(approximately 1 litre) as described in Chap-ter 1.2 Undo the retaining bolts securing the upperradiator mounting bracket to the radiatorcowl.3 Undo the two nuts or bolts securing theupper radiator mounting bracket to thethermostat cover, or the single nut securingthe bracket to the thermostat housing body(see illustrations). Remove the bracket.4 Slacken the radiator top hose retaining clipand disconnect the hose from the thermostatcover. Where applicable, disconnect theheater hose from the thermostat housingbody and the wiring from the thermostaticswitch or vacuum hoses from thethermostatic valve in the side of the housingbody. Note the correct fitted positions of thevacuum hoses before disconnection.5 Undo the remaining nut, or the three bolts(according to type) securing the thermostatcover, and lift off the cover and gasket. Wherethe cover is retained by nuts and studs, it islikely to be quite tight due to corrosion of theretaining studs. If so, apply liberal amounts ofpenetrating oil to the studs and allow time to

soak. Now very gently tap the cover from sideto side, using a soft-faced mallet or block ofwood. This should ease the corrosion andallow the cover to be lifted off.6 With the cover removed, take out thethermostat.7 On models with a separate thermostathousing body beneath the cover, lift off thehousing body together with its lower gasket.

Testing8 To test the thermostat for correctfunctioning, suspend it on a string in asaucepan of cold water together with a

thermometer (see illustration). Heat the waterand note the temperature at which thethermostat begins to open. The correctopening temperatures are given in theSpecifications at the beginning of this Chapter.Continue heating the water until the thermostatis fully open. Then let it cool down naturally.9 If the thermostat does not fully open inboiling water, or does not close down as thewater cools, then it must be discarded and anew one fitted. Should the thermostat bestuck open when cold, this will be apparentduring removal.

Refitting10 Refitting is the reverse sequence toremoval bearing in mind the following points:a) Clean off all traces of old gasket from the

component mating faces and renew anyparts which show signs of corrosion.

b) Where the thermostat is located directly inthe cylinder head, use a new gasketbetween the cylinder head and thermostatcover. On models with a separatethermostat housing body, use new gasketson both sides of the housing body.

c) Refill the cooling system as described inChapter 1 on completion.

6 Water pump - removal andrefitting 3

Note: Water pump failure is indicated by waterleaking from the gland or front of the pump, orby rough and noisy operation. This is usuallyaccompanied by excessive play of the pumpspindle which can be checked by moving thefan blades from side to side. Water pumps arerelatively inexpensive items and the simplestcourse of action, should the above symptomsbe evident, is to fit an exchange reconditionedunit. Refer to the warnings given in Section 1of this Chapter before proceeding.

RemovalNote: If the car is fitted with exhaust emissioncontrol equipment, it will be necessary toremove the air pump and drivebelt, asdescribed in Chapter 4C, to provide access tothe water pump.


4.7 Radiator lower support mounting boltaccessible through grille panel

5.3a Exploded view of the thermostat andhousing components (early models)

5.3b Thermostat housing and radiatorupper mounting bracket (later 1275 cc models)

5.8 Testing the thermostat

1 Remove the radiator (Section 4).2 Remove the fan belt as described inChapter 1, then undo and remove the twonuts, bolts and washers securing the dynamoor alternator to the mounting bracket andwater pump flange. Move the dynamo oralternator away from the engine, pivoting it onthe adjusting arm bolt, and allow the unit torest against the body front panel.3 Undo and remove the bolts securing the fanand fan pulley to the water pump hub. Lift offthe fan and pulley, and where fitted recoverthe spacer. As a guide to reassembly, make amark to indicate the outer face of the fan as itis quite easy to refit this component the wrongway round.4 Slacken the hose clips and detach theradiator bottom hose from the water pumpoutlet and also from the heater take-offconnection, where applicable. Now slackenthe clip that secures the bypass hose to theoutlet on the top of the pump.5 Undo and remove the four bolts securingthe water pump to the cylinder block. Lift offthe pump, and at the same time detach thebypass hose. Recover the water pump gasket(see illustration).6 Before refitting the pump, clean off alltraces of old gasket from the water pump andcylinder block mating faces, ensuring that thefaces are smooth, clean and dry.

Refitting7 Refitting the water pump is the reversesequence to removal, bearing in mind thefollowing points:a) Always use a new gasket, which should

be lightly smeared on both sides withjointing compound.

b) The bypass hose should be renewed as amatter of course, because these hosessometimes prove unreliable and areextremely difficult to renew when thewater pump is installed.

c) Refit and adjust the fan belt as describedin Chapter 1.

d) Refit the radiator as described in Section 4.

7 Auxiliary cooling fan -general information, removaland refitting 2

General information1 An auxiliary electric cooling fan is fitted toall later 1275 cc engine models. It is locatedbeneath the left-hand front wheel arch, andprovides an additional source of cooling forthe radiator in conjunction with the belt-drivenfan on the water pump.2 The auxiliary cooling fan is switched on andoff by a thermostatic switch. On carburettorengine Cooper models, the switch is screwedinto the thermostat housing body on thecylinder head, whereas on all other models itis situated in the front bottom corner of theradiator.

Removal - carburettor engineCooper models3 Chock the rear wheels then jack up thefront of the car and support it on axle stands(see “Jacking and vehicle support”). Removethe left-hand front roadwheel.4 Disconnect the air duct from the adapterbeneath the front left-hand headlight.5 Trace the fan motor wiring back to itsconnector, and disconnect it from the mainwiring harness.6 Slacken and remove the four cooling fanassembly shroud mounting nuts, and removethe assembly from underneath the wheel arch.Recover the mounting brackets, rubbers andspacers.

Removal - all except carburettorengine Cooper models 7 Remove the front grille as described inChapter 11.8 Undo the three mounting bolts and removethe radiator upper mounting bracket. Loosenthe lower radiator mounting bolt.

9 Disconnect the fan motor wiring connector,which is situated by the side of the radiatorfiller cap (see illustration), and release thewiring grommet from the wing valance.10 Slacken and remove the three (one lowerand two upper) mounting nuts securing thefan shroud to the wing valance, then carefullywithdraw the cooling fan assembly fromunderneath the wheel arch (see illustration).Recover any relevant mounting rubbers andspacers.

Refitting - all models11 Refitting is the reverse sequence toremoval, noting that the mounting rubbersshould be renewed if they show any signs ofwear or deterioration. Ensure that all disturbednuts and bolts are securely tightened.

8 Auxiliary cooling fanthermostatic switch -removal, testing and refitting

2Note: Refer to the warnings given in Section 1of this Chapter before proceeding.

Removal1 When the engine and radiator are cold,either drain the cooling system as described


3

7.10 Removing the lower fan mounting nut(arrowed) - fuel injection models

6.5 Removing the water pump (shown with engine removed) 7.9 Auxiliary fan motor wiring connector (arrowed) - fuel injection models

in Chapter 1, or carefully unscrew the radiatorfiller cap to release any remaining pressure,and have ready a suitable plug that can beused temporarily to stop the escape ofcoolant while the switch is removed. If thelatter method is used, take care not todamage the threads, and do not use anythingwhich will leave foreign matter inside thecooling system.2 On carburettor engine Cooper models,disconnect the wiring connectors, thenunscrew the switch from the thermostathousing.3 On all other models, if necessary remove thefront grille as described in Chapter 11 toimprove access to the switch. Disconnect thetwo wiring connectors, then rotate the lockingring anti-clockwise to release it; withdraw theswitch and rubber sealing ring from the bottomcorner of the radiator (see illustration).Examine the sealing ring for signs of damageor deterioration, and renew if necessary.

Testing4 To carry out a thorough test of the switch,use two spare wires to connect it either to amultimeter (set to the resistance function) or toa battery-and-bulb test circuit. Suspend theswitch in a pan of water which is being heated.Measure the temperature of the water with athermometer. Do not let either the switch orthe thermometer touch the pan itself.5 The switch contacts should close to the“on” position (ie, continuity should exist) whenthe water reaches the specified switch-ontemperature given in the Specifications at thestart of this Chapter. Stop heating the water,and allow it to cool down; the switchcontacts should open at the specifiedswitch-off temperature.6 If the switch performance is significantlydifferent from that specified, or if it does notwork at all, it must be renewed.

Refitting7 On carburettor engine Cooper models,ensure that the threads of the switch areclean, then apply a smear of suitable sealantto them. Refit the switch to the thermostathousing, tightening it to the specified torque,and reconnect the wiring connectors.8 On all other models, fit the sealing ring tothe switch, then refit the switch to the radiatorand secure it in position with the locking ring.

Reconnect the wiring connectors, and refit thefront grille (where removed).9 On completion, either top-up or refill thecooling system as described in “WeeklyChecks” or Chapter 1.

9 Heater water valve controlcable - removal and refitting 2

Removal1 Disconnect the battery negative lead.2 On pre-1989 models, slacken the innercable trunnion screw and the outer cableclamp screw at the heater water valve on thecylinder head. Release the cable from thevalve. On 1989 models onward, release theouter cable retaining clip from the heaterwater valve on the engine compartmentbulkhead. Disconnect the inner cable from thevalve lever. Release the cable from its supportclips.3 From inside the car, undo and remove thescrews, securing the centre console (wherefitted). This will enable the console to bemoved slightly as necessary to provideaccess to the control cable and heater.4 Slacken the nut securing the rear of theheater unit to its mounting bracket.5 Undo and remove the two screws securingthe heater unit to the parcel shelf and lowerthe heater.6 Detach the heater switch wire from the rearof the switch.7 Undo and remove the two nuts securing theswitch panel to the bracket under the parcelshelf.8 Pull the switch panel forward slightly, undothe control cable retaining nut, and pull thecomplete cable through into the car. Recoverthe nut and washer from the end of the cableas it is pulled through.

Refitting9 Refitting the cable is the reverse sequenceto removal.

10 Heater water valve - removaland refitting 2


Removal

Pre-1989 models1 Drain the cooling system as described inChapter 1.2 Slacken the clip and disconnect the heaterhose from the valve.3 Slacken the inner cable trunnion screw andthe outer cable clamp screw at the watervalve, and release the control cable from thevalve.4 Undo the two nuts and remove the valvefrom the cylinder head studs.

1989 models onwards5 Drain the cooling system as described inChapter 1.6 Slacken the clips and disconnect the heaterhoses from both sides of the valve (seeillustration).7 Release the outer cable retaining clip anddisconnect the control cable from the valvelever.8 Remove the valve assembly from thebulkhead.

Refitting9 Refitting is the reverse sequence toremoval, but check that the valve can bemoved through its full range of travel. Ifnecessary, adjust by repositioning the controlouter cable in its clamp or retaining clip.


8.3 Auxiliary cooling fan switch location(arrowed) - fuel injection models

10.6 Heater valve - 1989-onmodels

1 Outer cable retaining clip2 Inner cable attachment3 Coolant hose clip4 Coolant hose clip

11 Heater assembly - removaland refitting 2


Recirculating type (early models)

Removal1 Disconnect the battery negative lead.2 Refer to Chapter 1 and drain the coolingsystem.3 Make a note of their relative positions, thendisconnect the heater motor electric leads atthe terminal connectors.4 Slacken the demister and water hose clips.5 To prevent water damage to the carpets orupholstery, place polythene sheeting in theappropriate places on the floor and seating.6 Undo and remove the screws that securethe heater unit to the parcel shelf and carefullylift away the heater unit.

Refitting7 Refitting is the reverse of removal, but thefollowing additional points should be noted:a) Open the heater tap on the rear of the

engine and slowly refill the cooling systemas described in Chapter 1.

b) If the heater does not warm up, it is anindication that there is an air lock. Toclear, disconnect the return hose from thelower radiator hose and plug the hole.Now extend the return hose to reach theradiator filler neck. Start the engine andobserve the flow of water from the returnhose. When the bubbles cease, switch offthe engine and reconnect the hose.

Fresh air type (later models)

Removal8 Disconnect the battery negative lead.9 Refer to Chapter 1 and drain the coolingsystem.10 On models with a centre console, removethe console and the facia glovebox securingscrews. This will enable the console to bemoved as necessary for greater access to theheater.

11 To prevent water damage to the carpetsor upholstery, place polythene sheeting in theappropriate places on the floor and seating.12 Carefully pull the demister and air inlettubes out of the heater unit.13 Undo and remove the two screws thatsecure the front of the heater to the parcelshelf.14 Slacken the nut that secures the rear ofthe heater to the body mounted bracket (seeillustration).15 Make a note of the electrical connectionsto the blower motor and switch, thendisconnect the wires.16 Slacken the clips and disconnect theheater water hoses.17 Carefully lift the heater unit from theslotted rear brackets, hold the fingers over thematrix pipe ends (or plug with corks) and liftthe unit from the car.18 Finally drain any remaining coolant fromthe unit.

Refitting19 Refitting the heater assembly is thereverse sequence to removal. Refill thecooling system as described in Chapter 1 oncompletion.

12 Heater assembly -dismantling and reassembly 3

Recirculating type

Dismantling1 Remove the heater assembly from the caras described in Section 11.2 Detach the spring clips securing thedemister flap to the cover plate and lift off theflap (see illustration).3 Undo and remove the screws securing thecover plate to the cowling and lift off the coverplate and motor assembly.


3

11.14 Fresh air heater attachment points

A Securing screws - heater to parcel shelfB Nut and spring washer - heater to rear

bracket

12.2 Exploded view of the recirculatory heater

1 Hose2 Clip3 Connection4 Outlet hose5 Inlet hose6 Tap7 Gasket8 Mounting

bracket9 Nut10 Washer11 Washer

12 Sealing plate13 Cowling14 Demister hose15 Fan16 Screw17 Washer18 Motor

mounting19 Motor20 Spring21 Connector22 Sleeve

23 Flap24 Screw25 Nut26 Washer27 Fan retaining

screw28 Screw

4 Prise the fan off the motor spindle, undoand remove the retaining nut and washer,then lift away the motor.5 Undo and remove the screws securing themounting bracket to the cowling, lift off themounting bracket and withdraw the heatermatrix.6 Clean off all traces of rust and dirt from thematrix, and carefully inspect it for leaks orsigns of excessive corrosion. The matrixshould be renewed if it is badly corroded orleaking.

Reassembly 7 Reassembly is the reverse of thedismantling procedure.

Fresh air type (first version)

Dismantling8 Remove the heater assembly from the caras described in Section 11.9 Undo and remove the two screws securingthe control panel to the heater casing and liftoff the panel (see illustration).10 Carefully prise off the spring retainingclips and separate the two halves of thecasing.11 Withdraw the motor assembly and then liftout the heater matrix.

12 The two rotors may be removed from theblower motor by releasing the retaining clipsand sliding off the rotors.13 Clean off all traces of rust and dirt fromthe matrix, and carefully inspect it for leaks orsigns of excessive corrosion. The matrixshould be renewed if it is badly corrodedleaking.

Reassembly14 Reassembly is the reverse of thedismantling procedure.

Fresh air type (second version)

Dismantling15 Remove the heater assembly from the caras described in Section 11.16 Detach the wire from the fan motor at therear of the fan switch.17 Undo and remove the three screws andlift off the heater control mounting plate.18 Undo and remove the nine screwssecuring the right-hand end cover and lift offthe cover.19 Carefully slide out the heater matrix.20 Undo and remove the screws securing thefan motor to the main casing, release themotor wires and grommet, and withdraw themotor assembly.

21 If necessary, remove the two fans fromthe motor spindle.22 Clean off all traces of rust and dirt fromthe matrix, and carefully inspect it for leaks orsigns of excessive corrosion. The matrixshould be renewed if it is badly corroded orleaking. Note that on later models, thediameter and length of the heater inlet hosehas been increased. If the heater matrix is tobe renewed, it is important that the longer(1005.0 mm) hose is also fitted.

Reassembly23 Reassembly is the reverse of thedismantling procedure.

Fresh air type (third version -1985 models onward)

Dismantling24 Remove the heater assembly from the caras described in Section 11.25 To remove the heater matrix, undo thetwo screws securing the matrix endplate, andwithdraw the endplate, complete with matrix,from the heater casing. 26 Undo two screws each, and lift the pipestubs off the matrix endplate (seeillustration).


12.9 Exploded view of the early type fresh air heater

1 Control panel2 Fan switch3 Control panel

securing screws

4 Washer5 Heater casing6 Heater casing

7 Retaining clip8 Matrix9 Air distribution flap

10 Trunnion screw11 Fan motor12 Air intake fan

13 Retaining clips14 Recirculating fan15 Flap valve

16 Valve securingplate

17 Valve securingscrews

27 Clean off the matrix, and carefully inspectit for leakage or corrosion. If it is leaking,renewal is recommended, as repairs areseldom successful unless doneprofessionally.28 Inspect the condition of the O-rings on thepipe stubs, and renew if necessary.29 To remove the heater motor and fan,disconnect the motor switch wiring, undo thethree screws, and withdraw the motor and fanfrom the casing (see illustration). 30 Further dismantling of the motor and fanassembly is not possible, and if renewal isnecessary, a complete assembly will berequired.

Reassembly31 Reassembly is the reversal of thedismantling procedure.

13 Fresh air vent assembly -removal and refitting 1

Removal1 Unscrew the fresh air vent retaining collarand lift away the binnacle (see illustrations).2 Turn the air vent anti-clockwise and removeit (see illustration).



3

13.1a Unscrew the fresh air vent retainingcollar . . .

13.1b . . . and lift away the binnacle 13.2 Turn the air vent anti-clockwise toremove

12.26 Later-type heater matrix

1 Matrix endplate2 Endplate retaining

screws

3 Pipe stub retaining screw4 Pipe stub5 O-ring

12.29 Later-type heater motor

1 Retaining screws2 Heater motor

3 Switch wiring connector

4A

Chapter 4 Part A:Fuel system - carburettor engines

GeneralSystem type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Rear-mounted fuel tank, electric or mechanical fuel pump, single or

twin SU variable choke carburettor

Carburettor data

Mini 850 Saloon and variants, 848 cc, (85H) 1969-72 1972-74 1974-76 1976 onCarburettor type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . SU HS2 SU HS2 SU HS4 SU HS4Piston spring . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Red Red Red RedJet size . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.3 mm 2.3 mm 2.3 mm 2.3 mmNeedle:

Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . EB AAV ABS ADHRich . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . M - - - Weak . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . GG - - -

Idle mixture CO % . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . - 3.5 to 4.5 3.5 to 4.5 3.0 to 4.5Idle speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 500 rpm 800 rpm 800 rpm 750 rpmFast idle speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 900 rpm 1200 rpm 1200 rpm 1200 rpm

Mini Clubman and Mini 1000 Saloon and variants, manual transmission, 998 cc, (99H), up to 1974

1969-72 1972-74Carburettor type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . SU HS2 SU HS2Piston spring . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Red RedJet size . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.3 mm 2.3 mmNeedle:

Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . GX AAVRich . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . M -Weak . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . GG -

Idle mixture CO % . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . - 3.5 to 4.5Idle speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 500 rpm 800 rpmFast idle speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 900 rpm 1200 rpm

Accelerator cable - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3Accelerator pedal - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4Air cleaner assembly - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2Air cleaner element renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1Anti-run-on valve (1990-on Cooper models) - removal and refitting . 17Carburettor - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11Carburettor - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12Carburettor (SU HIF44 and HIF38)) - fault diagnosis and overhaul . . 14Carburettor (SU HIF44 and HIF38) - idle speed and mixture

adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16Carburettor (SU HS2 and HS4) - fault diagnosis and overhaul . . . . . 13Carburettor (SU HS2 and HS4) - idle speed and mixture adjustment 15

Choke cable - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5Electric fuel pump - testing, removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6Fuel gauge sender unit - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8Fuel system components, checks and lubrication . . . . .See Chapter 1Fuel tank - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9General information and precautions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1Inlet manifold - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18Mechanical fuel pump - testing, removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . 7Underbody and fuel/brake line check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1Underbonnet check for fluid leaks and hose condition . .See Chapter 1Unleaded petrol - general information and usage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10

4A•1

Specifications

Contents







54321

Mini Clubman and Mini 1000 Saloon, automatic transmission, 998 cc, (99H), up to 1974Carburettor type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . SU HS4Piston spring . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . RedJet size . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.3 mmNeedle:

Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ACRich . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . MlWeak . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . HA

Idle speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 650 rpmFast idle speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1050 rpm

Mini Clubman and Mini 1000 Saloon and variants, manual and automatic transmission, 998 cc, (99H), 1974-83

1974-76 1976-78 1978-83Carburettor type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . SU HS4 SU HS4 SU HS4Piston spring . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Red Red RedJet size . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.3 mm 2.3 mm 2.3 mmNeedle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ABX ADE ADEIdle mixture CO % . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.5 to 4.5 3.0 to 4.5 3.0Idle speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 750 rpm 750 rpm 750 rpmFast idle speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1200 rpm 1250 rpm 1250 rpm

Mini Saloon and variants, manual and automatic transmission, 998 cc (99H), 1983-89Carburettor type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . SU HS4Piston spring . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . RedJet size . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.3 mmNeedle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . AACIdle mixture CO % . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.5 ± 1.0Idle speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 750 ± 50 rpmFast idle speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1100 ± 50 rpm

Mini Saloon and variants, manual and automatic transmission, 998 cc (99H), 1989-on

(low compression) (high compression)Carburettor type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . SU HS4 SU HS4Piston spring . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Red RedJet size . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.3 mm 2.3 mmNeedle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ADE AACIdle mixture CO % . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.5 ± 1.0 2.5 ± 1.0Idle speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 750 ± 50 rpm 750 ± 50 rpmFast idle speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1100 ± 50 rpm 1100 ± 50 rpm

Mini Clubman 1100, 1098 cc, (10H) 1974 onCarburettor type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . SU HS4Piston spring . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . RedJet size . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.3 mmNeedle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ABPIdle mixture CO % . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.0 to 4.5Idle speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 750 rpmFast idle speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1150 to 1300 rpm

Mini Cooper S Mk III, 1275 cc, (12H) 1969 onCarburettor type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Twin SU HS2Piston spring . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . RedJet size . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.3 mmNeedle:

Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . MRich . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . AH2Weak . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . EB

Idle speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 600 rpmFast idle speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1000 rpm

Mini 1275 GT, 1275 cc, (12H) 1969-72 1972-76 1976-77 1978 onCarburettor type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . SU HS4 SU HS4 SU HS4 SU HS4Piston spring . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Red Red Red RedJet size . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.3 mm 2.3 mm 2.3 mm 2.3 mmNeedle:

Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . AC AAV ABB AATRich . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . BQ - - -Weak . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . HA - - -

Idle mixture CO % . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . - 3.5 to 4.5 3.0 to 4.5 3.0 to 4.0Idle speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 650 rpm 800 rpm 850 rpm 750 rpmFast idle speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1050 rpm 1200 rpm 1300 rpm 1300 rpm

4A•2 Fuel system - carburettor engines

Mini Cooper, 1275 cc, (12A) 1990-onCarburettor type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . SU HIF44Piston spring . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . RedJet size . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.5 mmNeedle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . BFYIdle mixture CO % . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.6 to 3.0 (measured at gas sampling pipe)Idle speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 900 rpmFast idle speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1200 ± 50 rpm

Mini Saloon and variants, 1275 cc (12A) 1992-onCarburettor type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . SU HIF38At the time of writing, no further specifications were available for this model.

Recommended fuelMinimum octane rating (see text Section 10):

All pre-1989 models* . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 97 RON leaded1989-on, 998 cc low-compression models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95 RON unleaded or 90 RON leaded1989-on, 998 cc high-compression models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95 RON unleaded or 97 RON leaded1990-on 1275 cc (12A) models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95 RON unleaded only

*Pre-1989 models with a “Green pack” can be run on 95 RON unleaded petrol - see text for further information.Note: Models with a catalytic converter must be run on unleaded petrol only.

Torque wrench setting Nm lbf ftManifold retaining nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 16


General informationThe fuel system comprises a fuel tank, an

electric or mechanical fuel pump and avariable choke carburettor.

The fuel tank is located in the luggagecompartment on Saloon models, and beneaththe rear floor on the Estate, Van and Pick-upvariants. On Cooper S versions twin fuel tanksare used, these being positioned on eitherside of the luggage compartment.

A number of the earlier vehicles covered bythis manual are equipped with an SU electricfuel pump which is mounted on the left-handmember of the rear subframe. All later Minimodels utilise a mechanical fuel pump boltedto the rear of the engine and operated by aneccentric on the camshaft.

A variable choke carburettor of SUmanufacture is fitted to all models. Manualtransmission versions manufactured up to1974 utilise a single SU HS2 unit, theexception to this being the Cooper S modelwhich incorporates a twin carburettorinstallation. Later vehicles are equipped withthe larger SU HS4 carburettor, or itsderivatives the HIF38 and HIF44. Furtherinformation on carburettor types will be foundlater in this Chapter.

Certain models are fitted with emissioncontrol equipment to reduce the level ofharmful emissions in the exhaust gases.Information on the exhaust and emissioncontrol systems is contained in Part C of thisChapter.

PrecautionsWarning: Petrol is extremelyflammable - great care must betaken when working on any partof the fuel system. Do not smoke

or allow any naked flames or uncoveredlight bulbs near the work area. Note thatgas powered domestic appliances withpilot flames, such as heaters, boilers andtumble dryers, also present a fire hazard -bear this in mind if you are working in anarea where such appliances are present.Always keep a suitable fire extinguisherclose to the work area and familiariseyourself with its operation before startingwork. Wear eye protection when workingon fuel systems and wash off any fuel spilton bare skin immediately with soap andwater. Note that fuel vapour is just asdangerous as liquid fuel; a vessel that hasjust been emptied of liquid fuel will stillcontain vapour and can be potentiallyexplosive. Petrol is a highly dangerous andvolatile liquid, and the precautionsnecessary when handling it cannot beoverstressed.

Many of the operationsdescribed in this Chapter involvethe disconnection of fuel lines,which may cause an amount of

fuel spillage. Before commencing work,refer to the above Warning and theinformation in “Safety first” at thebeginning of this manual.

When working with fuel systemcomponents, pay particularattention to cleanliness - dirtentering the fuel system may cause

blockages which will lead to poor running.

2 Air cleaner assembly -removal and refitting 1

All models except Cooper, and 1992-on models with open-loop catalytic converter

Removal1 Undo and remove the single wing nut andwasher on early models, or the twin wing boltsand washers on later models, securing the aircleaner to the carburettor (see illustrations).2 If the air cleaner is retained by a single wingnut lift off the air cleaner top cover. Detach therocker cover hose, then lift the air cleanerbody off the carburettor, tip it up at the frontand slide it sideways until it is clear of the longretaining stud and can be lifted away. Recoverthe sealing ring (see illustrations).

Fuel system - carburettor engines 4A•3

4A

2.1a Remove the single wing nut on earlymodels . .

3 If the air cleaner is retained by two wingbolts, detach the hot air duct (where fitted)and then lift the air cleaner body off thecarburettor (see illustrations).4 With the air cleaner removed from theengine, recover the rubber sealing ring if itstayed behind on the carburettor flange.

Refitting5 Refitting the air cleaner is the reversesequence to removal. Ensure also that therubber sealing ring is in position beforerefitting the air cleaner.6 If the air cleaner body incorporates an

adjustable air inlet spout, this should bepositioned adjacent to the exhaust manifold inwinter and away from it in summer.

Cooper S Mk III models

Removal7 Undo and remove the two wing bolts andwashers then disconnect the engine breatherpipe and the throttle return spring. Lift off theair cleaner body and recover the two rubbersealing rings from the carburettor flanges.

Refitting8 Refitting is the reverse sequence to removalbut ensure that the rubber sealing rings are inposition on the carburettor’s flanges.

1990-on Cooper models

Removal9 Unscrew the two nuts securing the air inletduct to the rocker cover studs, then releasethe clip and disconnect the duct from the aircleaner (see illustration).10 Unscrew and remove the nuts andwashers, then lift the air cleaner from thecarburettor and disconnect the hot air hose.Remove the sealing ring from the carburettorflange.

Refitting11 Refitting is the reverse sequence toremoval but ensure that the rubber sealingring is in position on the carburettors flange.

1992-on models with open-loop catalytic converter

Removal12 Unscrew the two wing nuts, and lift the aircleaner assembly away from the carburettor.Recover the sealing ring from the carburettorflange.

Refitting13 Refitting is the reverse sequence toremoval but ensure that the rubber sealingring is in position on the carburettors flange.


2.2b Recover the sealing ring

2.3a If the air cleaner is retained by twowing bolts detach the hot air duct . . .

2.3b . . . and lift off the air cleaner body . . .

2.1b . . . or the two wing bolts on later models 2.2a If the air cleaner is retained by a single wing nut, lift off thetop cover and withdraw the air cleaner body from the carburettor

2.9 Air cleaner and intake duct fitted to1990-on Cooper models

1 Intake duct retaining nuts2 Intake duct3 Air cleaner mounting nuts

3 Accelerator cable - removaland refitting 1

Removal1 Working in the engine compartment,disconnect the throttle return spring(s) andundo the nut and washer securing the cableto the bolt on the throttle lever (seeillustration). On later models the cable isattached to the throttle lever by means of asmall clamp with a locking bolt through itscentre. Hold the clamp and unscrew the boltusing either 4 BA or 7 BA spanners accordingto clamp type.2 Pull the cable through the bolt or clamp andslide it out of the steady bracket on the rockercover (if fitted).3 From inside the car, depress theaccelerator pedal and withdraw the ferrule onthe cable from the slot in the top of the pedalarm.4 The cable can now be withdrawn throughthe opening in the bulkhead and into theengine compartment.

Refitting5 To refit the cable, feed it through the

bulkhead and engage the ferrule into the sloton the pedal arm.6 Now feed the other end of the cablethrough the brackets on the rocker cover andcarburettor, and then insert the inner cableinto the slotted bolt or clamp on the throttlelever.7 Pull the cable through the bolt to take up anyslack and then refit the washer and nut or theclamp locking bolt. Avoid straining or distortingthe cable as the fixings are tightened. 8 Reconnect the return spring and check thata slight amount of free play exists betweenthe pedal and cable.9 Start the engine and check the operation ofthe cable.

4 Accelerator pedal - removaland refitting 1

Removal1 Depress the accelerator pedal and detachthe accelerator cable ferrule from the slot atthe top of the pedal arm.2 Undo and remove the two bolts securingthe pedal assembly to the bulkhead and liftout the pedal.


5 Choke cable - removal andrefitting 2

RemovalNote: On models fitted with a centre consoleit will be necessary to remove the centreconsole and console glovebox retainingscrews. This will allow the console to bemoved slightly to provide access for thefollowing operations.1 Disconnect the battery negative lead.2 Refer to Section 2 and remove the aircleaner assembly.3 Working in the engine compartment,disconnect the choke inner cable from thetrunnion screw on the choke linkage and theouter cable from the support bracket (seeillustration). Withdraw the complete cablefrom the carburettor.4 From inside the car, undo and remove thetwo screws securing the heater assembly tothe front of the parcel shelf. Now lower theheater slightly at the front.


4A

3.1 Accelerator cable attachments

1 Throttle return spring2 Cable-to-throttle lever

securing bolt

3 Cable support bracket4 Cable ferrule – pedal end5 Outer cable

1 Inner cable-to-linkageattachment

2 Outer cable support bracket3 Switch panel retaining nuts

4 Switch panel5 Choke cable6 Cable retaining nut and

washer

5.3 Choke cable attachments

5 Disconnect the heater switch wires from theswitch.6 Undo and remove the two nuts or screwswhich secure the auxiliary switch panel to thecentre of the parcel shelf.7 Draw the switch panel forward and unscrewthe choke cable retaining nut, or extract theretaining clip (according to type) from the rearof the panel.8 Pull the complete cable through thebulkhead grommet and switch panel, into thepassenger compartment. Recover theretaining nut and lockwasher from the end ofthe cable.

Refitting9 To refit the cable, slide it through the slot inthe switch panel and then place the nut andwasher over the cable.10 Insert the cable through the bulkheadgrommet and through to the enginecompartment.11 Screw on and fully tighten the chokecable retaining nut or refit the clip then refitthe switch panel. Position the word LOCK onthe cable knob at the top to ensure correctoperation in use. Reconnect the heater switchleads and refit the heater securing screws.12 Engage the other end of the cable into thesupport bracket and the inner cable into thetrunnion on the choke linkage.13 Ensure that the choke cable is pushedfully in, ie in the “off” position, then tighten theretaining screws on the support bracket andcable trunnion. Ensure that there is 1.5 mm offree play on the cable before the cable startsto operate the choke linkage.14 Refit the air cleaner, reconnect the batteryand, where applicable, refit the centre consoleretaining screws.

6 Electric fuel pump - testing,removal and refitting 2

Note: Observe the precautions in Section 1before working on any component in the fuelsystem.

Testing1 To test the fuel pump, disconnect the fuelsupply hose at the top of the carburettor floatchamber and immerse the end of the hose ina clean glass jar. With the ignition switched onthere should be a steady flow of petrol fromthe end of the hose accompanied by a regularticking noise from the pump.

Warning: Carry out this operationin a well ventilated area and takegreat care not to splash fuel ontohot engine components.

2 A rapid irregular ticking noise accompaniedby a mixture of fuel and air bubbles flowingfrom the hose is indicative of an air leak on thesuction side of the pump (ie in the pipebetween the pump and fuel tank). This willultimately lead to fuel starvation and cuttingout or misfiring if not corrected.

3 No fuel flow from the supply hose indicatesa fault in the pump (perforated diaphragm,dirty contact points etc), or a break in theelectrical supply to the pump. If the electricalsupply to the pump is sound but the pump isstill not functioning, it should be taken to anauto-electrician for inspection and possiblerepair, or replaced with an exchange unit.Repair kits are unlikely to still be availablefrom normal sources so an exchange unit maybe the only alternative.

Removal4 Disconnect the battery negative lead.5 Chock the front wheels then jack up therear of the car and support it on axle stands(see “Jacking and vehicle support”).6 Working under the car, disconnect the earthlead and the electrical supply wire from theirterminals on the pump body.7 Prepare to squeeze the rubber portion ofthe petrol pipe leading from the tank with aself-gripping wrench or similar tool, to ensurethat the minimum amount of fuel is lost whenthe inlet pipe is removed from the pump. Plugthe end of the pipe with a bolt or metal rod ofsuitable diameter immediately it isdisconnected.8 Remove the inlet and outlet fuel pipes byundoing the retaining clip screws and easingthe pipes off the pump nozzles (seeillustration). Remove the vent pipeconnector, if fitted, at this stage.9 Undo and remove the two nuts, bolts andspring washers securing the pump bracket tothe subframe and lift off the pump assembly,complete with bracket and clamp.10 To separate the pump from the bracket,slacken the clamp bolt and slide the pump outof the clamp.

Refitting11 Refitting is the reverse sequence toremoval, bearing in mind the following points:a) Arrows on the pump body indicate the

correct locations of the inlet and outletpipes. Ensure that these are fittedcorrectly and that the pump is installedwith the outlet pipe at the top.

b) Ensure that the electrical leads,particularly the earth, are clean and that acorrect connection is made.

7 Mechanical fuel pump -testing, removal and refitting 2


Testing1 To test the fuel pump, disconnect the fuelsupply hose at the top of the carburettor floatchamber and immerse the end of the hose ina clean glass jar. With an assistant crankingthe engine on the starter, regular spurts of fuelshould be ejected as the engine turns.

Warning: Carry out this operationin a well ventilated area and takegreat care not to splash fuel ontohot engine components.

2 If the pump does not operate satisfactorily,it should be renewed. The AUF 700 seriespump fitted to early models may bedismantled for inspection, but repair kits areunlikely to still be available from normalsources. The AUF 800 series pump fitted tolater models is a sealed unit and cannot bedismantled.

RemovalNote: The fuel pump used on later models(1985-on) is different in appearance to thoseused previously, but is fully interchangeable. Amodified kickdown rod will be required if anew type pump is fitted to older vehicles withautomatic transmission. Details of the rodfitment should be obtained from your dealer.3 Disconnect the battery negative lead.4 To provide greater access, remove the aircleaner, as described in Section 2.5 Slacken the pipe clip screw on the outletpipe connection and draw it off. Have a smallcontainer handy to collect what little fuel maydrain from the pipe.6 In all Saloon models, if the tank is morethan half full, the fuel will drain from the tankunder gravity when the fuel pump inlet pipe isdisconnected, so provide for this situation byfitting a suitable clip or bung in the pipe ifnecessary. On all other models the tank isbelow the pump level, so this problem will notoccur. Slacken the pipe clip screw on the inletpipe connection and draw it off.7 Slacken the two nuts which hold the pumpto the crankcase on two studs through thelower body.8 Ease the pump away from the crankcaseslightly and release the insulating block andits two sealing gaskets. If they are stuck,carefully prise them off the crankcase using aknife or thin screwdriver. Now lift off thepump, insulating block and gaskets.

Refitting9 Refitting the pump is the reverse sequenceto removal bearing in mind the followingpoints:a) Ensure that the mating faces of the pump

and crankcase are thoroughly clean and dry.


6.8 Removing the fuel outlet pipe from theelectric pump

b) Ensure that the correct insulator block isused according to pump type. Theinsulator block fitted to the 700 seriespump is different from the insulator blockfitted to 800 series and AZX series pumps(see illustration). The 700 series pumprequires an insulator block with a largeinner aperture, whereas the 800 seriesand AZX pumps require an insulator blockwith a small aperture in order to retain thepump lever pivot. If the wrong insulatorblock is fitted, there is a possibility of thepivot and lever dropping into thesump/transmission.

c) Use new sealing gaskets on either side ofthe insulating block but make sure thatthe original thickness is maintainedotherwise the pump operation may beaffected.

8 Fuel gauge sender unit -removal and refitting 2


Removal

Saloon models1 Disconnect the battery negative lead andremove the fuel gauge wires from theirattachments to the sender unit mounted in theside of the tank (see illustration).2 On early models, unscrew the screws whichhold the gauge unit to the tank carefully, andlift the complete unit away, ensuring that thefloat lever is not bent or damaged in theprocess.3 On later models, using crossedscrewdrivers, remove the fuel gauge senderunit by turning the locking ring through 30ºand lifting away. Carefully lift the unit from the

tank, ensuring that the float lever is not bentor damaged in the process.

Estate, Van and Pick-up models4 Refer to Section 9 and remove the fuel tankfrom the car.5 Removal and refitting of the sender unitnow follows the procedure described forSaloon models.

Refitting6 Refitting the unit is the reverse sequence toremoval. To ensure a fuel-tight joint, scrapeboth the tank and sender unit mating flangesclean, and always use a new joint gasket anda suitable gasket sealer.

9 Fuel tank - removal andrefitting 2


Saloon models except Cooper S

Removal1 Before the tank can be removed, it must bedrained of as much fuel as possible. To avoidthe dangers and complications of fuelhandling and storage, it is advisable to carryout this operation with the tank almost empty.Any fuel remaining can be drained as follows.2 Disconnect the battery negative lead.3 Using a hand pump or syphon insertedthrough the filler neck, remove any remainingfuel from the bottom of the tank. Note: Anumber of earlier models were fitted with afuel tank incorporating a combined drain plugand tube. Access to this is from below the car,using a long box spanner. In all cases carryout the draining or siphoning operation in awell ventilated area, never in a garage or overan inspection pit.

4 Remove the spare wheel from its location inthe luggage compartment.5 Disconnect the wiring from the fuel gaugesender unit located on the side of the tank(see illustration).6 If the car is fitted with an electric fuel pump,slacken the clip and detach the fuel inlet hosefrom the pump inlet nozzle. Collect anyremaining fuel in a suitable container.7 When the tank is empty, slacken the clipand detach the fuel hose from the front of thetank.8 Detach the fuel tank breather pipe andremove the filler cap.9 Undo and remove the tank securing strapbolt and carefully manoeuvre the fuel tankfrom the luggage compartment.10 If the tank is contaminated with sedimentor water, remove the fuel gauge sender unit asdescribed in Section 8 and swill the tank outwith clean fuel. If the tank is damaged orcorroded it should be renewed. However, incertain cases it may be possible to have smallleaks or minor damage repaired. Seek theadvice of a Rover dealer or suitable specialistconcerning tank repair.


Estate, Van and Pick-up models12 Disconnect the battery negative lead.13 Chock the front wheels then jack up therear of the car and support it on axle stands(see “Jacking and vehicle support”).14 Remove the tank filler cap then, fromunderneath the car, undo and remove thedrain plug, allowing the fuel to drain into asuitable container. Do this in a well ventilatedarea, not in a garage or over an inspection pit.When drained, refit the drain plug and washersecurely.


4A

7.9 Mechanical fuel pump insulator block types

A 700 series type B 800 and AZX series type

8.1 Electrical leads at the fuel gauge sender unit on the side of thetank (Saloon models)

15 Disconnect the fuel outlet pipe and thefuel gauge wires from their connections on thesender unit on the side of the tank (seeillustration).16 Undo and remove the six screws whichhold the tank in place and remove the tank. It ishelpful if a jack is positioned under the tank asthe retaining screws are removed so that thetank does not drop out under its own weight. Itmay also be found easier to lower the tankslightly on the jack before disconnecting thesender unit leads, as with the tank halfremoved they are more accessible.17 Refer to the information contained inparagraph 10.

Refitting18 Refitting the tank is the reverse sequenceto removal bearing in mind the following points:a) Make sure that the nylon spacers located

at each retaining screw hole are inposition before refitting the tank.

b) Ensure that the drain plug and washer arein place and securely tightened.

c) Ensure that the rubber ferrule beneath thefiller cap makes an effective seal with thebody.

Cooper S twin fuel tanks

Removal19 Disconnect the battery negative lead.20 Working in the rear luggage compartmentremove the trimmed floor panel.21 Lift out the spare wheel.22 Remove the fuel filler caps.23 Unscrew the left-hand fuel tank drain plugthree turns and allow fuel to drain from bothtanks into a suitable container. Do this in awell ventilated area, not in a garage or over aninspection pit. When drained, resecure thedrain plug.

Left-hand tank24 Disconnect the electrical connectors fromthe fuel gauge sender unit. 25 Remove the tank strap securing bolt.26 Detach the flexible pipe and the vent pipefrom the fuel tank.27 Carefully ease the fuel tank towards thecentre of the luggage compartment and liftaway.28 Refer to the information contained inparagraph 10.

Right-hand tank29 Completely remove the battery, referringto Chapter 5A if necessary.30 Remove the tank strap securing bolt.31 Detach the flexible hose from the left-hand tank.32 Move the tank slightly from its mountings,taking extreme care not to damage theflexible fuel pipes.33 The fuel tank will still contain a smallamount of petrol which should be drained intoa small container when the flexible fuel pipe isdisconnected.34 Disconnect the flexible fuel pipe.

35 Finally detach the vent pipe from the tankand lift the tank from the car.36 Refer to the information contained inparagraph 10.

Refitting37 Refitting either fuel tank is the reversesequence to removal. Make sure that the sealaround the drain plug housing is water-tight.

10 Unleaded petrol - generalinformation and usage

Note: The information given in this Chapter iscorrect at the time of writing. If updatedinformation is thought to be required, check

with a Rover dealer. If travelling abroad,consult one of the motoring organisations (or asimilar authority) for advice on the fuelavailable.1 The fuel recommended by Rover is given inthe Specifications Section of this Chapter.2 Models built up to October 1988 (asdelivered from the factory) cannot useunleaded petrol; the valve seats fitted asstandard will suffer serious premature wearwithout the protection of the petrol’s leadcontent. Only four-star leaded petrol shouldbe used, irrespective of the engine’scompression ratio. Exceptions to this arethose engines which have been modified asdescribed in paragraph 5 below.3 From October 1988 onwards (ie during the1989 model year), improved componentswere gradually introduced at the factory toenable engines to run on 95 RON unleadedpetrol; these vehicles can be identified by thegreen “95 RON unleaded petrol” labelattached to the bonnet lock platform. Thesevehicles can use either unleaded or leadedpetrol, without modification or risk of damage.4 If you have a 1989 model and suspect thatthe label has become detached, check firstwith a Rover dealer whether the vehicle can orcannot use unleaded petrol; the VIN (VehicleIdentification Number) will be required forpositive identification. Note, however, that asa general rule, 998 cc engines which can useunleaded petrol have the engine serial numberprefix “99HE”.


9.5 Fuel tank and fittings – Saloon models

9.15 Fuel tank outlet pipe and fuel gaugesender unit (Estate, Van and

Pick-up models)

5 To use unleaded petrol on earlier models,conversion kits are available (consistingbasically of an exchange cylinder head knownas “Green Packs”), through Rover dealers.Any vehicle which has had such a conversionwill have the letter “U” stamped between theengine prefix and the start of the serialnumber, and can use either unleaded orleaded petrol without modification. Note:Apart from any adjustment made during thefitting of a “Green Pack” no alteration shouldbe made to the ignition timing or carburationsettings.6 Models equipped with a catalytic convertermust be run on unleaded petrol only.

11 Carburettor - generalinformation

SU HS2 and HS4The variable choke SU HS2 and HS4

carburettors are relatively simple instrumentsand are basically the same irrespective oftype. They differ from most other carburettorsin that, instead of having a number of varioussized fixed jets for different conditions, onlyone variable jet is fitted to deal with allpossible conditions.

The carburettor comprises four mainassemblies; these are the carburettor body,the piston and dashpot assembly, the jetassembly and the float chamber. Fuel iscarried from the float chamber to the base ofthe jet head by a nylon pipe, the float chamberbeing secured to the carburettor body by ahorizontally positioned bolt and spacingwasher.

The operation of the carburettor is asfollows. Air passing rapidly through thecarburettor creates a slight vacuum ordepression over the jet, causing fuel to bedrawn into the air stream, thus forming thefuel/air mixture. The amount of fuel drawnfrom the jet depends on the position of thetapered carburettor needle. This moves up ordown the jet orifice according to engine loador throttle opening, thus effectively alteringthe size of the jet. This allows the right amountof fuel to be delivered for the prevailing roadconditions.

The position of the tapered needle in the jetis determined by engine vacuum. The shankof the needle is held at its top end in a piston,which slides up and down the dashpot, inresponse to the degree of manifold vacuum.This is directly controlled by the throttle. Thepiston is necessary so that the depressionover the jet needed to draw fuel into the airstream, can be kept approximately constant.At slow engine speeds, the air entering thecarburettor would not be travelling fastenough to create sufficient vacuum to drawfuel from the jet. By allowing the piston topartially restrict the opening through thecarburettor, the incoming air is speeded up,causing an adequate depression over the jet.

With the throttle fully open, the full effect ofinlet manifold vacuum is felt by the piston,which has an air bleed into the carburettorventuri on the outside of the throttle. Thiscauses the piston to rise fully, bringing theneedle with it. With the throttle partiallyclosed, only slight inlet manifold vacuum isfelt by the piston (although on the engine sideof the throttle, the vacuum is now greater),and the piston only rises slightly.

To prevent piston flutter, and to give aricher mixture when the accelerator issuddenly depressed, an oil damper and lightspring are located inside the dashpot.

For cold starting, when fuel enrichment isnecessary and very small amounts of air aredrawn into the carburettor, actuation of thechoke control causes the jet head to belowered, thus effectively increasing the jetsize.

The only portion of the piston assembly tocome into contact with the piston chamber ordashpot is the actual central piston rod. Allthe other parts of the piston assembly,including the lower choke portion, havesufficient clearances to prevent any directmetal-to-metal contact, which is essential ifthe carburettor is to work properly.

The correct level of the petrol in thecarburettor is determined by the level of thefloat in the float chamber. When the level iscorrect, the float rises and, by means of alever resting on top of it, closes the needlevalve in the cover of the float chamber. Thiscloses off the supply of fuel from the pump.When the level in the float chamber drops, asfuel is used in the carburettor, the float sinks.As it does, the float needle comes away fromits seat so allowing more fuel to enter the floatchamber and restoring the correct level.

SU HIF44 and HIF38The SU HIF44 and HIF38 carburettors are

fitted to 1990-on Cooper models, and 1992-on1275 cc models with open-loop catalyticconverter respectively. These carburettorsoperate in a similar way to the SU HS2 andHS4 instruments described previously, but thefloat chamber has been incorporated into themain body of the carburettor, and a bi-metallicstrip is fitted to the jet adjusting (mixture)screw mechanism; that is in order tocompensate for the varying fuel densitieswhich result from changes in fuel temperature.

12 Carburettor - removal andrefitting 2


SU HS2 and HS4 carburettors

Removal1 Disconnect the battery negative lead.2 Remove the air cleaner assembly asdescribed in Section 2.3 Disconnect the distributor vacuum advancepipe from the carburettor (where fitted).4 Slacken the retaining clip screw andwithdraw the fuel inlet pipe from the top of thefloat chamber. Plug the disconnected pipewith a bolt or metal rod of suitable diameter.5 Refer to Sections 3 and 5 and disconnectthe accelerator and choke cables from thecarburettor linkages.6 Detach the throttle return spring from thebracket on the exhaust manifold clamp. OnCooper S models detach the throttle andthrottle linkage return springs from the heatshield. On automatic transmission modelsdetach the governor control rod fork end fromthe throttle lever7 Detach the engine breather hose from thecarburettor (where fitted).8 Undo and remove the two nuts whichsecure the carburettor(s) to the inlet manifoldstuds and recover the spring washers.9 Lift the carburettor carefully off the inletmanifold (see illustration). If twincarburettors are being removed, lift off bothcarburettors together to avoid damaging thelinkages that join the two carburettor spindles.These can be removed after the carburettorsare lifted clear of the manifold studs.

Refitting10 Refitting the carburettor(s) is the reversesequence to removal, noting the followingpoints:a) Ensure that all mating surfaces are clean

and dry, and use new gaskets.b) When refitting twin carburettors, ensure

that the linkages joining the two spindlesare in position, and that the operatingforks are engaged in the slots on thecarburettor spindles.

c) Tighten the carburettor nuts evenly andprogressively, to avoid possible distortionof the mounting flange.

d) Refit the accelerator and choke cableswith reference to Sections 3 and 5.

SU HIF44 and HIF38carburettors

Removal11 Disconnect the battery negative lead.12 Remove the air cleaner assembly asdescribed in Section 2.13 On Cooper models, remove thecarburettor heat shield.


4A

12.9 Removing the SU HS2 carburettorfrom the manifold

14 On 1992-on models with an open-loopcatalytic converter, release the retaining clipand disconnect the charcoal canister hosefrom the side of the carburettor.15 On all models, disconnect the acceleratorand choke cables from the carburettorlinkages as described in Sections 3 and 5.Free the accelerator outer cable from itsbracket, then release the retaining clip anddetach the choke cable from the carburettor.16 Disconnect the vacuum pipe from the topof carburettor mounting flange.17 Release the retaining clip and disconnectthe fuel supply hose from the carburettor.Plug the hose end to minimise fuel loss.18 Release the retaining clip and disconnectthe vent pipe from the float chamber.19 Undo the mounting nuts and withdraw thecarburettor from the inlet manifold, together withthe throttle cable bracket, spacer and gaskets.

Refitting20 Refitting is the reverse sequence toremoval, noting the following points.a) Ensure that all mating surfaces are clean

and dry, and use new gaskets.b) Tighten the carburettor nuts evenly and

progressively, to avoid possible distortionof the mounting flange.

c) Refit the accelerator and choke cableswith reference to Sections 3 and 5.

13 Carburettor (SU HS2 andHS4) - fault diagnosis andoverhaul

3Fault diagnosis1 If a carburettor fault is suspected, alwayscheck first that the ignition timing is correctlyset, that the spark plugs are in good conditionand correctly gapped, that the throttle andchoke cables are correctly adjusted, and thatthe air cleaner filter element is clean; refer tothe relevant Sections of Chapter 1, Chapter5B or this Chapter. If the engine is runningvery roughly, first check the valve clearancesas described in Chapter 1, then check thecompression pressures as described inChapter 2A.2 If careful checking of all the aboveproduces no improvement, the carburettormust be removed for cleaning and overhaul.3 Prior to overhaul, check the availability ofcomponent parts before starting work; notethat most sealing washers, screws andgaskets are available in kits, as are some ofthe major sub-assemblies.

OverhaulNote: Observe the precautions in Section 1before working on any component in the fuelsystem.4 The SU carburettor is a straightforward unit todismantle and service, but at the same time it isa delicate unit and clumsy handling can causedamage. In particular, it is easy to knock the

finely tapering needle out of true, and thegreatest care should be taken to keep all theparts associated with the dashpot in a safeplace and scrupulously clean. Prepare a cleanand uncluttered working area before starting thedismantling, and have some small containershandy to store the small, easily-lost parts.5 Begin by removing the carburettor(s) fromthe car as described in Section 12.Thoroughly clean the outside of thecarburettor in paraffin or a suitable solventand wipe dry.6 Unscrew the piston damper assembly andremove it from the top of the dashpot (seeillustrations).7 Mark the base of the dashpot andcarburettor body to ensure that onreassembly the dashpot is refitted in the sameposition. Now undo and remove the securingscrews and lift off the dashpot.8 Next lift off the piston spring and thencarefully withdraw the piston and needleassembly from the carburettor body. Undothe small sunken retaining screw in the side ofthe piston and lift out the needle. On latertypes equipped with a spring-loaded needle,recover the guide collar from the needle, andthe spring from the piston, after removing theneedle assembly.9 Undo and remove the three retainingscrews and lift off the float chamber cover andgasket. The float may be released from thecover by gently tapping out the float hingepin. The fuel cut-off needle valve can now bewithdrawn from its seat in the cover and theneedle seat unscrewed if required.10 Unscrew the union nut securing the nylonfuel pipe to the base of the float chamber andcarefully withdraw the pipe. Note the positionof the gland, ferrule and rubber sealingwasher on the end of the pipe and make surethat the rubber washer has not been leftbehind in the float chamber as the pipe iswithdrawn. If so, hook it out carefully with asmall screwdriver.11 If there is a tamperproof cap in positionaround the jet adjusting nut at the base of thecarburettor, prise it apart with a screwdriverand discard it.12 Release the jet link lever return springfrom the cam lever on the linkage.13 Undo and remove the small screw orrelease the clip that secures the jet link arm tothe jet. Move the jet link arm to one side andwithdraw the jet assembly, complete with fuelpipe from the jet housing.14 It is not normally necessary to carry outany further dismantling of the SU carburettor.However, if the throttle spindle, jet housing, orfloat chamber are worn, damaged, or in anyway suspect, the remainder of the carburettormay be dismantled as described below.15 Bend back the small tab washer and thenundo and remove the nut securing the throttlelever to the spindle. Lift off the lever.16 Straighten the splayed ends of the twothrottle disc retaining screws and then markthe position of the disc in relation to the

spindle. Undo and remove the two screws,turn the disc to the fully open position andslide the disc out of the slot in the spindle.Note that new throttle disc retaining screwsmust be used when reassembling.17 The spindle can now be removed from thecarburettor body.18 To remove the choke linkage undo theretaining pivot bolt and lift it off complete withlinkage.19 To dismantle the jet housing, first undoand remove the jet adjusting nut and lockspring. Next undo and remove the jet bearinglocknut and withdraw the bearing.20 The float chamber can be lifted off afterunscrewing the retaining through-bolt.Recover the float chamber spacer, wherefitted.21 The carburettor is now completelydismantled with the exception of the pistonlifting pin (omitted on later carburettors). Thepin may be removed by prising off the smallupper retaining circlip and lifting off the pinand spring.22 Thoroughly clean all the carburettorcomponents and dry thoroughly.23 Carefully examine the throttle spindle andthrottle disc for wear or distortion. If excessivewear is apparent on the spindle or spindlebushes in the carburettor body, air will enterthe carburettor, altering the mixture strengthand causing uneven running. The throttlespindle is obtainable separately, but if thebushes are worn, a complete carburettorbody will normally have to be obtained.24 Closely inspect the carburettor needle. Ifthis has not been running centrally in the jetorifice then the needle will have a tiny ridgeworn on it. If a ridge can be seen then theneedle must be renewed. SU carburettorneedles are made to very fine tolerances andshould a ridge be apparent no attempt shouldbe made to rub the ridge down with emerypaper.25 If the needle is worn, it is likely that the jetwill also be worn. If this is the case, alsorenew the jet. Also inspect the outside of thejet head where it bears against the jet bearing.Wear can take place here due to the action ofthe choke control moving the jet up and downin the jet bearing.26 The most critical components of the SUcarburettor are the piston and dashpotassembly. Free movement of the piston in thedashpot is essential for the carburettor tofunction satisfactorily. The piston is machinedto very fine tolerances so that it will not touchthe side of the dashpot or carburettor body. Ifwear takes place on the centre guide tube or ifdeposits build up on the internal surfaces ofthe dashpot, the piston will come into contactwith the side of the dashpot and will bind. Thiscondition is known as piston sticking. If thiscondition cannot be improved after cleaningthe inside of the dashpot and the piston withmetal polish (harsh abrasives must not beused), then the piston and dashpot will haveto be renewed. These two components are



4A

13.6a Exploded view of the SU HS2 carburettor

1 Body2 Piston lifting pin3 Spring4 Circlip5 Dashpot and piston assembly6 Needle locking screw7 Piston damper assembly8 Washer for damper cap9 Piston spring10 Screw11 Jet assembly12 Jet bearing13 Washer14 Locknut for jet bearing15 Lock spring16 Jet adjusting nut17 Jet needle18 Float chamber body19 Bolt20 Float and lever assembly21 Lever hinge pin22 Float chamber lid assembly23 Gasket24 Needle and seat assembly25 Screw26 Spring washer27 Baffle28 Throttle spindle29 Throttle disc30 Screw31 Throttle lever32 Fast idle adjusting screw33 Spring for adjusting screw34 Throttle spindle nut35 Tab washer36 Idle speed adjusting screw37 Spring for adjusting screw38 Cam lever39 Washer40 Cam lever spring41 Cam lever pivot bolt42 Pivot bolt tube43 Spring washer44 Pick-up lever assembly45 Jet link46 Jet link retaining clip47 Jet link securing screw48 Bush49 Spring for pick-up lever


13.6b Exploded view of the SU HS4 carburettor

1 Body2 Piston lifting pin3 Spring4 Sealing washer5 Plain washer6 Circlip7 Dashpot8 Screw9 Piston10 Spring11 Needle12 Needle tension spring13 Needle guide collar14 Locking screw15 Piston damper16 Identification tag17 Idle speed adjusting screw

and O-ring*

18 Idle speed adjusting screwand spring

19 Gaskets20 Insulator block21 Float chamber and spacer22 Gasket23 Float24 Hinge pin25 Needle and seat26 Float chamber cover27 Baffle plate28 Screw29 Spring washer30 Bolt31 Spring washer32 Plain washer33 Throttle spindle34 Throttle disc

35 Screw36 Washer37 Throttle return lever*37a Throttle return lever38 Progressive throttle (snail

cam)39 Fast idle screw*39a Fast idle screw and spring40 Lockwasher41 Nut42 Jet assembly – Capstat type43 Sleeve nut44 Washer45 Gland46 Ferrule47 Jet bearing48 Jet locating nut49 Jet adjustment nut and spring

50 Rod link and pick-up lever51 Spring clip52a Jet assembly53a Pick-up lever non-Capstat

type53b Link53c Screw54 Pivot bolt55 Pivot bolt tube – inner56 Pivot bolt tube – outer57 Distance washer58 Cam lever59 Cam lever spring60 Pick-up lever spring61 Piston guide62 Screw*Used with sealed adjustment

carburettors

only obtainable as matched pairs and cannotbe interchanged. The piston and dashpotassembly are in a satisfactory condition if thepiston, having been pushed right to the top ofthe dashpot, will drop under its own weightwithout any trace of binding.27 Examine the float chamber needle valveand seat next. After high mileage, it is quitelikely that a ridge will have formed on the faceof the needle. This could prevent the needlevalve from shutting off the fuel supply andcause flooding of the carburettor. This is quitea common occurrence on SU carburettorsand unless the needle and seat appear to bein perfect condition, they should both berenewed. 28 Finally, check the condition of the float. Ifany signs of cracking or distortion are evident,which may allow fuel to enter, renew the float.29 If the carburettor has been completelydismantled, begin reassembly by refitting thepiston lifting pin and spring into thecarburettor body and then refit the retainingcirclip.30 Place the float chamber in position andsecure it in place, with the long retaining boltinserted through the side of the carburettorbody.31 Refit the jet bearing, washer and locknutfinger-tight only. Do not refit the lock spring orjet adjusting nut at this stage.32 Refit the choke linkage and retaining pivotbolt.33 Insert the throttle spindle into thecarburettor body with the countersunk holesin the spindle facing outwards. Insert thethrottle disc into the spindle, noting theassembly markings made during dismantling.Secure the disc to the spindle using newretaining screws, but do not tighten them.Snap the spindle open and shut to centralisethe disc and make sure that the disc does notbind in the carburettor bore in any position. Ifnecessary reposition the disc slightly. Nowtighten the screws and spread their endsenough to prevent them from turning.

34 Slide the spacing washer and throttlelever onto the spindle, followed by the tabwasher and retaining nut. Tighten the nut andbend over the tab washer.35 On carburettors with a fixed jet needle,insert the needle into the piston, ensuring thatthe shoulder on the shank of the needle isflush with the underside of the piston. Refitand fully tighten the sunken retaining screw(see illustrations).36 On carburettors equipped with a spring-loaded needle, fit the spring and guide collarto the needle and insert this assembly into thepiston. Position the guide collar so that it isflush with the underside of the piston andposition the needle so that the small etchmark is between the two piston transfer holes.Secure the assembly with the sunkenretaining screw (see illustration).37 If the jet housing has been removed, it willnow be necessary to centralise the jet asfollows.38 With the jet bearing, washer and locknutin position as described in paragraph 31, refit

the jet adjusting nut, without the lock spring,and screw it up as far as it will go. Now slidethe jet assembly into the jet housing.39 Carefully refit the piston and needleassembly to the carburettor body, followed bythe spring and dashpot. Align the previouslymade marks on the dashpot and carburettorbody and then refit the securing screws.40 Slacken the jet bearing locknut and holdthe piston down using a pencil insertedthrough the damper opening. Now tighten thejet bearing locknut.41 Lift the piston and allow it to fall under itsown weight. A definite metallic click should beheard, as the piston falls and contacts thebridge in the carburettor body.42 Now fully lower the adjusting nut and notewhether the piston still falls freely. If not,slacken the jet bearing locknut and repeat thecentring procedure. It may be necessary tocarry out the centring operation several times,until the piston will fall freely with the adjustingnut at the top and bottom of its travel.43 With the jet correctly centralised, slide outthe jet assembly and unscrew the adjustingnut. Now place the lock spring in position andrefit the adjusting nut and jet assembly.Secure the jet link arm to the jet with thescrew or retaining clip.44 The flexible jet fuel supply tube can nowbe refitted to the base of the float chamber.Ensure that the small rubber sealing washer,nut and gland are in position on the tube andthat there is at least 5.0 mm of pipe protrudingthrough the washer. Push the tube into thefloat chamber and tighten the union nut.45 Refit the fuel cut-off needle and seat tothe float chamber cover. Place the float inposition and tap in the float hinge pin untilequal amounts of the pin are protruding eitherside of the mounting lugs.46 On early carburettors equipped with abrass float, invert the float chamber cover sothat the needle valve is closed. It should nowjust be possible to place a 5⁄16 inch (8.0 mm)diameter bar parallel to the float hinge pin and


4A

13.36 The spring-loaded needle assemblyfitted to the later SU HS4 carburettors

13.35a Refit the fixed jet needle to the piston . . . 13.35b . . . and secure with the retaining screw

in the centre of the float chamber cover,without fouling the float. If the bar lifts the floator if the float stands clear of the bar, bend thefloat lever very slightly until the clearance iscorrect (see illustration).47 Later carburettors fitted with plastic floatsincorporate either a plain steel needle or aspring-loaded needle enclosed in a plasticsheath. The adjustment procedure for theplain steel needle type is the same asdescribed in paragraph 46. Float leveladjustment for spring-loaded needles is asfollows.48 Invert the float chamber cover so that theneedle valve is closed but the spring is notcompressed. The gap between the float andthe flange on the float chamber cover, at thecentre of the cover, should be between 3.18mm and 4.76 mm (see illustration). If the gapis incorrect, bend the float lever slightly untilthe specified gap is obtained. In the case offloats having a moulded plastic hinge,increase or decrease the washer thicknessunder the needle seat to achieve the desiredfloat level height.49 Place a new gasket in position on the floatchamber, refit the cover and secure it with thethree retaining screws.50 Fill the carburettor piston damper with thecorrect grade of oil, until the level is 13.0 mm

above the top of the hollow piston rod. Nowrefit the damper plunger.51 To obtain an initial jet setting and to allowthe engine to be started, screw the jetadjusting nut up until the jet is flush with thebridge in the carburettor body. Now screw thenut down two complete turns on non-sealedcarburettors and three complete turns onsealed units. Note: The sealed typecarburettors are identified by the throttleadjusting screw which is recessed within thecarburettor body.52 The carburettor can now be refitted to thecar as described in Section 12 and the idlespeed and mixture adjustments carried out asdescribed in Section 15.

14 Carburettor (SU HIF44 andHIF38)) - fault diagnosis andoverhaul

3Fault diagnosis1 Refer to Section 13.

Overhaul

SU HIF44 carburettor2 Remove the carburettor from the car asdescribed in Section 12, then clean theexterior surfaces thoroughly and wipe dry.3 Mark the float chamber cover in relation tothe carburettor body. Remove the screws,and withdraw the cover and sealing ring (seeillustration).4 Unscrew and remove the mixture screwand spring, and withdraw the seal.5 Unscrew the jet retaining screw, andremove the spring.6 Withdraw the jet and bi-metal leverassembly. Disengage the lever from the jet.7 Unscrew and remove the float pivot andseal. 8 Withdraw the float and the needle valve.9 Unscrew and remove the needle valve seat.10 Unscrew and remove the piston damper,and drain the oil.11 Mark the dashpot in relation to thecarburettor body. Remove the screws andwithdraw the dashpot together with thepiston.12 Prise the clip from the top of the pistonrod, then withdraw the piston and spring fromthe dashpot.13 Unscrew the needle retaining grub screw.Remove the needle, guide and spring from thepiston.14 From underneath the main body, unscrewthe jet bearing nut and withdraw the bearing.15 Note how the spring is attached to thefast idle cam lever, then bend back thelocktabs, unscrew the nut and remove thewasher.16 Hold the return spring against the mainbody, and use a screwdriver to prise the camlever from the end of the cold start spindle.Remove the spring.

17 Remove the end cover and spindle seat.18 Remove the two screws and withdraw theretaining plate, cold start body and gasket.19 Remove the O-ring from the end of thecold start spindle, and withdraw the spindlefrom the main body. Remove the cold startseal.20 Dismantling of the throttle spindle is notrecommended, unless the components aredamaged or excessively worn. If they are, firstnote how the return spring is attached to thethrottle lever.21 Mark the throttle valve in relation to thespindle and main body.22 Remove the throttle valve screws whilesupporting the spindle with a block of wood ifnecessary.23 Open the throttle and withdraw the valvedisc.24 Remove any burrs from the spindle screwholes with a fine file.25 Bend back the locktabs and unscrew thespindle nut. Remove the lockwasher, plainwasher, throttle lever, and return spring.26 From the opposite end of the spindle,loosen the nut and bolt, and remove thethrottle damper lever.27 Check the threaded end of the spindleand main body in relation to each other, thenwithdraw the spindle. Remove the two seals.28 Clean all the components dry thoroughly.Examine each item for damage and excessivewear. In particular, check the throttle spindleand bearings for wear. If excessive, renewal ofthe spindle may be sufficient, but if thebearings are worn, it may be necessary torenew the complete carburettor, as newbearings are not always available. Check theneedle valve and seating for excessiveridging. Examine the main body for cracks,and for security of the brass fittings andpiston key. Check the tapered needle, jet andjet bearing for wear. Shake the float, and listenfor any trapped fuel which may have enteredthrough a small crack or fracture. Renew thecomponents as necessary, and obtain acomplete set of gaskets and seals, and twonew throttle valve screws if necessary.29 Clean the inside of the dashpot and theperiphery of the piston with methylated spirit.Do not use any form of abrasive. Lubricate thepiston rod with engine oil, and insert it into thedashpot. Hold the two componentshorizontal, and spin the piston in severalpositions. The piston must spin freely, withouttouching the sides of the dashpot.30 Commence reassembly by fitting thethrottle spindle and two seals to the mainbody. The seals must be slightly recessed intheir housings.31 Locate the return spring and throttle leveron the end of the spindle, and fit the plainwasher, lockwasher, and nut. Tighten the nutwhile holding the lever, and bend over thelocktabs to lock.32 Engage the return spring with the throttlelever and main body, and tension the spring.


13.46 Method of setting the correctclearance of the float lever –

early carburettors

13.48 Method of setting the correctclearance of the float lever –

later carburettors

A 3.18 to 4.76 mmB Machined lipC Float lever adjustment pointD Float needle and seat assemblyE Lever hinge pin


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14.3 Exploded view of the SU HIF carburettor

1 Piston damper2 Dashpot3 Piston spring and clip4 Piston5 Needle retaining screw6 Spring7 Jet needle8 Guide9 Lifting pin10 Lifting pin and circlip11 Spindle seal12 Throttle spindle13 Throttle valve and screw14 Return springs15 Throttle lever and progressive

throttle cam16 Fast idle adjustment screw17 Idle speed adjustment screw18 Spindle nuts and tab washers19 Return spring lever20 Mixture control lever and fast

idle cam21 Return spring22 Dust cap23 Seal24 Retaining plate25 Cold start body26 O-ring27 Cold start spindle28 Cold start seal29 Main body30 Jet bearing31 Jet bearing nut32 Jet assembly33 Bi-metallic jet lever34 Jet (mixture) adjusting screw

and seal35 Jet retaining screw and spring36 Float37 Float pivot and seal38 Needle valve39 Needle valve seat40 Fuel strainer41 Float chamber cover42 Cover seal43 Screw and spring washer

33 Fit the throttle valve disc to the spindle inits original position, and insert the newscrews, tightening them loosely (coat thethreads with thread-locking fluid).34 Open and close the throttle several timesto settle the disc, then tighten the screwswhile supporting the spindle on a block ofwood. Using a small chisel, spread the endsof the screws to lock them.35 Locate the throttle damper lever looselyon the end of the spindle. 36 Locate the cold start seal in the mainbody with the cut-out uppermost.37 Insert the cold start spindle (holeuppermost), and fit the O-ring.38 Fit the cold start body with the cut-outuppermost, and the retaining plate with theslotted flange facing the throttle spindle. Usea new gasket, then insert and tighten theretaining screws.39 Fit the spindle seat and end cover,followed by the spring, cam lever, lockwasher,and nut. Make sure that the spring is correctlyengaged, then tighten the nut and bend overthe locktabs to lock.40 Insert the jet bearing and nut, and tightenthe nut.41 Connect the bi-metal lever with the fueljet, making sure that the jet head moves freelyin the cut-out.42 Insert the mixture screw and seal into themain body. Fit the jet to the bearing, and atthe same time engage the slot in the bi-metallever with the small diameter of the mixturescrew.43 Insert the jet retaining screw with thespring, and tighten the screw.44 Adjust the mixture screw so that the topof the jet is flush with the venturi bridge.45 Insert and tighten the needle valve seat,and with the carburettor inverted, insert theneedle valve.46 Position the float, then insert the pivot andseal through the body and float, and tighten.47 To check the float level adjustment, holdthe carburettor inverted with the float keepingthe needle valve shut. Using a straight edgeand feeler blade, check that the centre portionof the float is 1.0 ± 0.5 mm below the surfaceof the float chamber face (see illustration). Ifnot, bend the tab which contacts the needlevalve as necessary.48 Fit the float chamber cover in its originalposition, together with a new sealing ring.Tighten the screws in diagonal sequence.49 Insert the spring, needle, and guide intothe piston with the guide etch marks facingthe dashpot transfer holes, and with thebottom face of the guide flush with the bottomface of the piston (see illustration 13.36).50 Insert and tighten the guide retaining grubscrew.51 Lower the piston and needle assemblyinto the main body, at the same time engagingthe slot with the piston key.52 Locate the spring over the piston rod.

53 Hold the dashpot directly over the pistonwith its location mark aligned with the mark onthe body, then lower it over the spring andpiston rod. It is important not to tension thespring by twisting the dashpot.54 Insert and tighten the dashpot retainingscrews. Lift the piston with a finger, thenrelease it and check that it returns to theventuri bridge without any assistance. If not, itmay be necessary to loosen the retainingscrews and slightly reposition the dashpot. 55 Hold the piston fully up, then fit the clip tothe top of the piston rod. 56 Pour the specified type of oil into the topof the dashpot until the level is 13.0 mmabove the top of the hollow piston rod. Refitand tighten the piston damper.

SU HIF38 carburettor57 At the time of writing, no specificinformation on the HIF38 carburettor fitted tothe 1992-on 1275 cc models was available.However the carburettor is really only aslightly smaller version of HIF44 (38 mm boreinstead of 44 mm) it is otherwise identical.Therefore, the carburettor can be overhauledusing the information given above, noting thatit will be necessary to refer to a Rover dealerfor correct float height measurements; thosegiven in paragraph 47 are only applicable tothe HIF44 carburettor.

15 Carburettor (SU HS2 andHS4) - idle speed and mixtureadjustment

3Preliminary information1 Three adjustments are possible on the SUcarburettor. These are the engine idlingspeed, fast idling speed and mixture strength.The mixture strength is particularly importantas the initial setting, carried out with theengine idling, determines the mixture strengththroughout the entire engine speed range. Agood indication as to whether carburettoradjustment is necessary can be gained bychecking the colour of the exhaust tailpipeand listening to the note of the exhaust atidling speed. If the tailpipe is black and theengine appears to be hunting, it is quite likelythat the mixture is too rich. If the exhaust islight grey or white in appearance,accompanied by a rhythmic puffing sound,this would indicate a weak mixture. Ideally,the exhaust should be a medium grey colourand emit a steady even drone. The colour ofthe spark plugs will also give a goodindication as to the mixture strength andgeneral engine condition (see Chapter 1).These checks should only be carried out after


14.47 SU HIF carburettor float level adjustment “A”

1 Type 1 float 2 Type 2 float A = 1.0 ± 0.5 mm

a good run of about 5 to 10 miles. Idling in citytraffic and stop/start motoring is bound tocause excessively dark exhaust pipe andspark plug deposits.2 Before carrying out any adjustments to thecarburettor, ensure that the ignition system isin good condition, that the spark plugs,contact breaker points and ignition timingsettings are correct, and that the engine is atnormal operating temperature. Check alsothat the carburettor dashpot oil damper istopped up to the correct level with thespecified grade of oil.3 Depending on year of manufacture either asealed or non-sealed carburettor may befitted. Early models are equipped with thenon-sealed type, identified by the throttle andfast idle adjusting screws which are clearlyvisible and retained by a tension spring orlocknut. On the sealed carburettors thethrottle adjusting screw is located in arecessed hole in the carburettor body andmay be covered by a small circular metal cap.4 Carburettor adjustment is carried out asfollows, according to type.

Adjustment

Single carburettor installations - non-sealed type5 Remove the air cleaner assembly asdescribed in Section 2.

6 Connect a tachometer to the engine (if oneis not already fitted to the car), following themanufacturer’s instructions. If your ears canattune to slight changes in engine rpm or toalterations of the exhaust note, then it ispossible to carry out the adjustments withoutthe use of a tachometer.7 Set the engine idling speed by turning thethrottle adjusting screw until the specifiedidling speed is obtained (see illustrations).Note: If the throttle adjusting screw is securedby a locknut, slacken the locknut beforeturning the adjusting screw and leave itslackened until all the carburettor adjustmentshave been completed.8 To check the mixture strength, press thepiston lifting pin on the side of the carburettorupwards, against light spring resistance, untilit comes into contact with the piston. Nowpress it up a further 1.0 mm and listen to theengine speed. This will indicate one of thefollowing:a) If the speed of the engine increases

appreciably, the mixture is too rich.b) If the engine speed immediately

decreases or the engine stalls, the mixtureis too weak.

c) If the engine speed remains constant orincreases very slightly, the mixture iscorrect.

9 To enrich the mixture, rotate the jetadjusting nut located at the base of thecarburettor in a clockwise direction as viewedfrom above, ie downward. To weaken themixture, rotate the jet adjusting nut anti-clockwise as viewed from above, ie upward,while at the same time pushing the jetassembly upwards against the nut. Whenaltering the mixture strength, only turn the nutone flat at a time and check the mixture withthe lifting pin each time.10 It is quite likely that there will be a slightincrease or decrease in engine rpm, after themixture adjustment has been made. Thisshould be corrected by turning the throttleadjusting screw, until the specified idlingspeed is again obtained.11 With the engine idling at the specifiedspeed and the mixture correctly adjusted,check the fast idle adjustment as follows.12 Rotate the choke linkage on the side ofthe carburettor, to the point where the linkagejust starts to lower the jet. Hold the linkage inthis position and rotate the fast idleadjustment screw, until the specified enginefast idle speed is obtained.13 When all adjustments are complete,disconnect the tachometer, refit the aircleaner and road test the car, carrying out anysmall adjustments that may be necessary, onthe road.


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15.7a Carburettor adjustment points – SU HS2

1 Throttle adjusting screw2 Fast idle adjusting screw3 Float chamber bolt

4 Jet link securing screw5 Jet adjusting nut6 Jet locknut

1 Fast idle adjusting screw2 Jet adjusting nut

3 Governor control rod(automatic transmission)

4 Throttle adjusting screw

15.7b Carburettor adjustment points – SU HS4

Single carburettor installations -sealed type without open-loopcatalytic converter14 Remove the air cleaner assembly asdescribed in Section 2. 15 If the tamperproof seals are still in positionover the throttle adjusting screw and mixtureadjusting nut, remove and discard them (seeillustration). The seal over the throttleadjusting screw can be hooked out of therecess using a small screwdriver. The seal onthe jet adjusting nut can be removed byprising it open with a screwdriver and thenlifting away the two halves.16 Connect a tachometer to the engine (ifone is not already fitted to the car), followingthe manufacturer’s instructions. If your earscan attune to slight changes in engine rpm orto alterations of the exhaust note, then it ispossible to carry out the adjustments withoutthe use of a tachometer.17 Set the engine idling speed, by turning thethrottle adjusting screw until the specifiedidling speed is obtained.18 Turn the jet adjusting nut located at thebase of the carburettor in a clockwise or anti-clockwise direction, one flat at a time, until the

fastest possible engine speed consistent witheven running is obtained. Turning the nutclockwise as viewed from above, iedownward, enriches the mixture. Turning thenut anti-clockwise as viewed from above, ieupward, weakens the mixture.19 It is quite likely that there will be a slightincrease or decrease in engine rpm after themixture adjustment has been made. Thisshould be corrected by turning the throttleadjusting screw until the specified idlingspeed is again obtained.20 The remainder of the adjustmentprocedure is the same as describedpreviously for non-sealed carburettors inparagraphs 11 to 13.

Single carburettor installations -sealed type with open-loop catalyticconverter21 On 1992-on 998 cc models equipped withan open-loop catalytic converter, the idlespeed and mixture adjustments can becarried out as described previously inparagraphs 14 to 20, but using an exhaustgas analyser to check the CO content of theexhaust gas.22 The gas analyser should be used inaccordance with the maker’s instructions andconnected to the take-off point at the top ofthe exhaust system front pipe. To do this, itwill first be necessary to jack up the front ofthe car and support it on axle stands.23 Unscrew the threaded plug from the frontpipe, and screw the gas sampling pipeadapter into the threaded hole; the adaptercan be obtained from a Rover dealer. The gasanalyser should then be connected to the endof the sampling pipe.

24 On completion, unscrew the samplingpipe, then refit the threaded plug and tighten itsecurely.

Twin carburettor installations25 Before adjusting the mixture strength onmodels fitted with twin carburettors, it isnecessary to ensure that the volume of airpassing through each carburettor is the same.This is done as follows.26 Remove the air cleaner assembly asdescribed in Section 2.27 Slacken the two clamp bolts on thethrottle spindle operating arms and the twoclamp bolts on the choke spindle operatingarms (see illustration).28 Start the engine without depressing theaccelerator and allow it to idle.29 Using a proprietary balancing meter, inaccordance with the manufacturer’sinstructions, balance the carburettors byaltering the throttle adjusting screws until theairflow through both carburettors is the same.30 Alternatively, use a length of small boretubing, such as heater hose, approximately457 mm long, to compare the intensity of theinlet hiss on both carburettors. Turn thethrottle adjusting screws until the hiss soundsthe same in both carburettors. It should benoted that this method is not reallyrecommended, as it tends to be somewhatless accurate, and certainly more difficult,than using a balancing meter.31 When the two carburettors are balanced,bring the engine idling speed back to thespecified rpm by turning both throttleadjusting screws by equal amounts.32 Now tighten the two clamp bolts, on thethrottle spindle operating arms, making sure


15.15 The tamperproof caps fitted to thelater type sealed carburettors

1 Throttle adjusting screw cap2 Throttle adjusting screw showing

cap in position3 Jet adjusting nut seals4 Jet adjusting nut

15.27 Throttle and choke linkage – Cooper S models

1 Throttle spindle operating arms 2 Choke spindle operating arms

that a slight clearance exists between the pegand the lower edge of the fork. Ensure alsothat the arms are positioned in such a waythat both carburettor throttles open at thesame time, when the accelerator pedal isdepressed. If necessary, reposition one of thearms slightly to achieve this condition.33 Now adjust the mixture strength for eachcarburettor using the procedure described inparagraphs 8 and 9.34 If the idling speed requires adjustmentafter setting the mixture, turn both throttleadjusting screws by an equal amount in thedesired direction.35 The choke spindle operating arms cannow be positioned and tightened using themethod described previously for the throttleoperating arms.36 Finally, adjust the fast idle speed asfollows.37 Pull out the choke control knob or operatethe linkage by hand, until the linkage juststarts to lower the jets. Hold the linkage in thisposition and turn the fast idle adjustingscrews, on both carburettors, until thespecified fast idle speed is obtained and bothcarburettors are passing the same volume ofair.38 Adjustment of the carburettors is nowcomplete. Refit the air cleaner and carry out athorough road test.

16 Carburettor (SU HIF44 andHIF38) - idle speed andmixture adjustment

3Note: A tachometer and accurately calibratedexhaust gas analyser (CO meter) will berequired for the following adjustments. If these

instruments are not available, the car shouldbe taken to a Rover dealer for the work to becarried out.

Preliminary information1 Refer to Section 15, paragraphs 1 and 2,then check the following items:a) The crankcase ventilation hoses are

secure and in good condition (Chapter4C).

b) The choke cable is correctly adjusted(Section 5).

c) The accelerator cable is correctlyadjusted (Section 3).

d) The fast idle screw is correctly adjusted,so that there is clearance between thescrew and the cam with the choke controloff.

2 Run the engine to normal operatingtemperature. Driving the car on the road forapproximately 4 miles will achieve this.3 The adjustments should be completedwithin two minutes of the engine reachingnormal temperature, before the electriccooling fan operates. If the adjustments arenot completed within the two minutes or if thecooling fan operates, wait for the fan to switchoff, then increase the engine speed to 2000rpm for approximately 30 seconds. Theadjustments can then be resumed.4 To adjust the mixture setting on Coopermodels, it will be necessary to unscrew theplug from the gas sampling pipe which issituated on the right-hand end of the cylinderhead, and connect an exhaust gas analyser tothe end of the pipe (see illustration). On allother models, the exhaust gas analysershould be connected to the take-off point onthe exhaust system front pipe, using a gassampling pipe adapter (which can be obtained

from a Rover dealer). To fit the pipe, jack upthe front of the car and support it on axlestands (see “Jacking and vehicle support”).Unscrew the threaded plug from the exhaustsystem front pipe, screw the gas samplingpipe into the threaded hole, and connect theexhaust gas analyser to the end of thesampling pipe.

AdjustmentNote: If it has been noted that the engine idlespeed has become erratic, and a high CO %reading is obtained during the followingprocedure, it is likely that the carburettorneedle valve is faulty. Rover have produced amodified needle valve kit to overcome thisproblem. Refer to your Rover dealer for furtherinformation.5 Check that all electrical components areswitched off. 6 Connect a tachometer to the engine inaccordance with the maker’s instructions.7 Allow the engine to idle, and check that theidle speed is as given in the Specifications. Ifadjustment is necessary, turn the screwlocated on the dashpot base as necessary(see illustration).8 With the exhaust gas analyser connectedas described in paragraph 4, and the engineidling, check that the mixture CO % is asgiven in the Specifications. If not, turn theadjustment screw located on the side of thecarburettor body. Turn the screw by smallincrements, and allow the reading to stabilisebetween adjustments.9 If necessary, re-adjust the idling speed asdescribed in paragraph 7.10 Note that if the CO % is adjusted near the3.0% upper limit, the efficiency of the catalyticconverter will be reduced. If the CO reading is


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16.4 Gas sampling pipe location (arrowed) on 1990-on Cooper models

16.7 Adjusting location points on the SU HIF

then taken from the exhaust tailpipe, theremay be little difference between the tworeadings. However, this does not mean thatthe catalytic converter is functioning correctly,and it will not adversely affect the unit.11 Check the fast idling speed by pulling outthe choke until the arrow on the carburettorfast idle cam is aligned with the adjustmentscrew. If adjustment is necessary, turn thefast idle screw.12 Stop the engine and disconnect thetachometer and exhaust gas analyser. OnCooper models, refit the plug to the samplingpipe. On all other models, remove thesampling pipe, refit and tighten the threadedplug, and lower the vehicle to the ground.

17 Anti-run-on valve (1990-onCooper models) - removaland refitting

1Removal1 The anti-run-on valve is mounted onto abracket in the right-hand rear corner of theengine compartment. Its function is to preventthe engine running-on (“dieseling”) after theignition is switched off. If the valve isdisconnected or damaged, it may prevent theengine from running or idling smoothly.2 To remove the valve, disconnect the wiringconnector and both hoses from it.3 Unscrew the bracket retaining bolt, andremove the valve complete with its bracket.

Refitting4 Refitting is a reverse of removal, ensuringthat the wiring connector and hoses aresecurely connected.

18 Inlet manifold - removal andrefitting 2

RemovalNote: On vehicles fitted with emission controlequipment it will be necessary to removecertain additional fittings, hoses and bracketsto provide access to the inlet manifold. Theitems requiring removal will be obvious after avisual inspection, and full informationregarding their removal will be found in Part Cof this Chapter.1 Refer to Section 12 and remove thecarburettor(s) from the inlet manifold.2 On models fitted with a brake servo,slacken the retaining clip screw and removethe vacuum hose from the union on the inletmanifold.3 If working on Cooper S models, undo andremove the nuts, large flat washers and springwashers securing the manifold to the cylinderhead. Lift off the manifold. On all other modelsproceed as follows.4 Chock the rear wheels then jack up thefront of the car and support it on axle stands(see “Jacking and vehicle support”).

5 From underneath the car, undo and removethe nut and bolt securing the exhaust frontpipe support strap to the transmissionbracket.6 Undo and remove the two bolts and nutssecuring the two halves of the exhaustmanifold clamp to the front pipe. Lift away theclamp assembly.7 Undo and remove the six nuts and flatwashers securing the manifold to the cylinderhead (see illustration).8 Lift off the hot air shroud, where fitted, andthen slide the inlet and exhaust manifoldassembly off the studs and withdraw it fromthe engine. Recover the manifold gasket.

Refitting9 Refitting is the reverse sequence to removalbearing in mind the following points:a) Ensure that the mating surfaces of the

manifold and cylinder head are clean, anduse a new gasket.

b) Refit the exhaust manifold-to-front pipeclamp before tightening the front pipesupport strap bolt.


18.7 Inlet and exhaust manifold assembly

1 Manifold and gasket2 Carburettor insulating block

3 Retaining nuts4 Manifold-to-front pipe clamp

4B

Chapter 4 Part B:Fuel system - fuel injection engines

GeneralSystem type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Rover/Motorola Modular Engine Management System, using ECU-

controlled single-point injection (MEMS-Spi) and speed/densitymethod of airflow measurement

Fuel system dataFuel pump type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Electric, immersed in fuel tankFuel pump regulated pressure . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.0 bar ± 4%Injector and pressure regulator unit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . JZX 3300Throttle potentiometer voltage:

Throttle closed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0 to 1 voltThrottle open . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 to 5 volts

Idle speed - nominal value, for reference only . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 850 ± 25 rpmIdle mixture CO % . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.5% maximum

Recommended fuelMinimum octane rating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95 RON unleaded only

Torque wrench settings Nm lbf ftFuel pump nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 6Throttle body assembly nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7Injector housing fuel pipe union nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24 18Injector housing fuel pipe adapters . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24 18Injector housing screws . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 4Inlet air temperature sensor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 5Manifold retaining nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 16Brake servo vacuum hose union bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 37Fuel tank breather two-way valve nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 6

Accelerator cable - removal, refitting and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . 4Accelerator pedal - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5Air cleaner air temperature control system - general information,

testing and component renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3Air cleaner assembly - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2Air cleaner element renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1Fuel filter renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1Fuel gauge sender unit - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10Fuel injection system - testing and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12Fuel injection system components - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . 13Fuel pump - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9

Fuel system - depressurisation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6Fuel system - pressure check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7Fuel tank - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8General information and precautions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1Inlet manifold - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15Inlet manifold PTC heater - general information and component

renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14Underbody and fuel/brake line check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1Underbonnet check for fluid leaks and hose condition . .See Chapter 1Unleaded petrol - general information and usage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11

4B•1

Specifications

Contents







54321


General informationThe fuel system consists of a fuel tank,

situated at the rear of the car, with an electricfuel pump immersed in it, a fuel filter, fuel feedand return lines, and the throttle bodyassembly (which incorporates the single fuelinjector and the fuel pressure regulator), aswell as the engine management electroniccontrol unit (ECU) and the various sensors,electrical components and related wiring. Theair cleaner contains a disposable paper filterelement, and incorporates a flap valve airtemperature control system, which allowscold air (from the outside of the car) and warmair (heated by the exhaust manifold) to enterthe air cleaner in the correct proportions.

To reduce emissions and to improvedriveability when the engine is cold, the inletmanifold is heated by the cooling systemcoolant and by an electric pre-heater system.Mixture enrichment for cold starting is a pre-programmed function of the system.

The ECU fully controls both the ignition andfuel injection systems, integrating the two in acomplete engine management system; referto Chapter 5B for information on the ignitionside of the system.

The Rover/Motorola Modular EngineManagement System uses ECU-controlledsingle-point injection (MEMS-Spi) and thespeed/density method of airflowmeasurement. The whole system is bestexplained if considered as three sub-systems;the fuel delivery, air metering and electricalcontrol systems.

The fuel delivery system incorporates thefuel tank with an electric fuel pump (immersedin a swirl pot to prevent aeration of the fuel)inside it. When the ignition is switched on, thepump is supplied with current via the fuelpump relay, under the control of the ECU; thepump feeds petrol via a non-return valve (toprevent fuel draining out of the systemcomponents and back to the tank when thepump is not working) to the fuel filter, andfrom the filter to the injector. Fuel pressure iscontrolled by the pressure regulator, whichlifts to allow excess fuel to return to the tankswirl pot, where a venturi causes the returningfuel to draw cool fuel from the tank into theswirl pot. In the event of sudden deceleration(ie, an accident) an inertia switch cuts off thepower to the pump, so that the risk of firefrom fuel spraying out of broken fuel linesunder pressure is minimised.

The air metering system includes the inletair temperature control system and the aircleaner, but the main components are in thethrottle body assembly. This incorporates theinjector (which sprays fuel onto the back ofthe throttle disc), the throttle potentiometer(which is linked to the throttle disc spindle,

and sends the ECU information on the rate ofthrottle opening by transmitting a varyingvoltage), and the stepper motor, (which iscontrolled by the ECU, and operates thethrottle disc spindle lever via a cam andpushrod to provide idle speed control).

The electrical control system consists of theECU, with all the sensors that provide it withinformation, and the actuators by which itcontrols the whole system’s operation. TheECU’s manifold absolute pressure (MAP)sensor is connected, by hoses and a fuel(vapour) trap mounted on the bulkhead, to theinlet manifold; variations in manifold pressureare converted into graduated electricalsignals, which are used by the ECU todetermine the load on the engine. The inlet airtemperature sensor is self-explanatory; thecrankshaft sensor provides the engine speedand crankshaft position; the coolanttemperature sensor supplies the enginetemperature, the accelerator pedal switch tellsthe ECU when the accelerator is closed; thethrottle potentiometer is explained above, andthe function of the lambda sensor is explainedin Part C of this Chapter. The ECU alsosenses battery voltage, and can adjust theinjector pulses width and use the steppermotor to increase the idle speed and,therefore, the alternator output it if is too low.Short-circuit protection and diagnosticcapabilities are incorporated; the ECU canboth receive and transmit information via thediagnostic connector, thus permitting enginediagnosis and tuning by Rover diagnosticequipment. If either the coolant temperaturesensor, the inlet air temperature sensor or themanifold absolute pressure sensor circuitsshould fail, the ECU has a back-up facilitywhich assumes a valve corresponding to acoolant temperature of 60ºC, an inlet airtemperature of 35ºC and an engine loadbased on the engine speed and throttleposition; these are used to implement a back-up air/fuel mixture ratio.

All these signals are compared by the ECU,using digital techniques, with set values pre-programmed (mapped) into its memory.Based on this information, the ECU selectsfuel and ignition settings appropriate to thosevalues, and controls the ignition HT coil(varying the ignition timing as required), thefuel injector (varying its pulse width - thelength of time the injector is held open - toprovide a richer or weaker mixture, asappropriate), the stepper motor (controllingthe idle and fast idle speeds), the fuel pumprelay (controlling the fuel delivery), themanifold heater relay (controlling the inletmanifold pre-heater system) and the mainrelay, the purge control valve, and the lambdasensor and relay, accordingly. The mixture,idle speed and ignition timing are constantlyvaried by the ECU to provide the best settingsfor cranking, starting and engine warm-up(with either a hot or cold engine), idle,cruising, and acceleration. A rev-limiter circuitis built into the ECU, which switches off the

injector earth (ie, the fuel supply) if the enginespeed exceeds the recommended limit. Theinjector earth is also switched off on theoverrun, to improve fuel economy and reduceexhaust emissions.

The ECU idle control is an adaptive system;it learns the engine load and wearcharacteristics over a period of time, andadjusts the idle speed to suit. If the ECU isrenewed, or one from another car is fitted, itwill take a short period of normal driving forthe new ECU to learn the engine’scharacteristics and restore full idle control.

PrecautionsWarning: Petrol is extremelyflammable - great care must betaken when working on any partof the fuel system. Do not smoke

or allow any naked flames or uncoveredlight bulbs near the work area. Note thatgas powered domestic appliances withpilot flames, such as heaters, boilers andtumble dryers, also present a fire hazard -bear this in mind if you are working in anarea where such appliances are present.Always keep a suitable fire extinguisherclose to the work area and familiariseyourself with its operation before startingwork. Wear eye protection when workingon fuel systems and wash off any fuel spilton bare skin immediately with soap andwater. Note that fuel vapour is just asdangerous as liquid fuel; a vessel that hasjust been emptied of liquid fuel will stillcontain vapour and can be potentiallyexplosive. Petrol is a highly dangerous andvolatile liquid, and the precautionsnecessary when handling it cannot beoverstressed.

Many of the operations described in thisChapter involve the disconnection of fuellines, which may cause an amount of fuelspillage. Before commencing work, refer tothe above Warning and the information in“Safety first” at the beginning of thismanual.

When working with fuel systemcomponents, pay particular attention tocleanliness - dirt entering the fuel systemmay cause blockages which will lead topoor running.Note: Residual pressure will remain in the fuellines long after the vehicle was last used,when disconnecting any fuel line, it will benecessary to depressurise the fuel system asdescribed in Section 6.

2 Air cleaner assembly -removal and refitting 1

Removal1 Slacken and remove the three screwssecuring the air cleaner assembly to thethrottle body (see illustration).

4B•2 Fuel system - fuel injection engines

2 Lift up the assembly, then disconnect thewiring connector from the air temperaturesensor, and the inlet manifold vacuum pipefrom the thermac valve (see illustrations).3 Remove the air cleaner assembly, andrecover its sealing ring from the throttle bodyflange.

Refitting4 Refitting is the reverse sequence toremoval, ensuring that the sealing ring iscorrectly located on the throttle body flange.

3 Air cleaner air temperaturecontrol system - information,testing and component renewal

1General information1 The system is controlled by a thermacvalve/switch mounted in the air cleanerassembly; when the engine is started fromcold, the switch is closed, to allow inletmanifold depression to act on the airtemperature control valve in the inlet duct.This raises a vacuum diaphragm in the valveassembly, and draws a flap valve across thecold air inlet, thus allowing only (warmed) airfrom the exhaust manifold to enter the aircleaner.2 As the temperature of the exhaust-warmedair in the air cleaner rises, a bi-metallic strip inthe thermac switch deforms, opening theswitch to shut off the depression in the airtemperature control valve assembly. The flapis lowered gradually across the hot air inletuntil, when the engine is fully warmed-up tonormal operating temperature, only cold airfrom the front of the inlet duct is entering theair cleaner.

Testing 3 To check the system, allow the engine tocool down completely, then unclip the inletduct from the air cleaner body; the flap valvein the duct should be securely seated acrossthe hot air inlet. Start the engine; the flapshould immediately rise to close off the coldair inlet, and should then lower steadily as theengine warms up, until it is eventually seatedacross the hot air inlet again.

4 To check the thermac switch, disconnectthe vacuum pipe from the control valve whenthe engine is running, and place a finger overthe pipe end. When the engine is cold, fullinlet manifold vacuum should be present inthe pipe, and when the engine is at normaloperating temperature, there should be novacuum in the pipe.5 To check the air temperature control valve,unclip the inlet duct from the air cleaner body;the flap valve should be securely seatedacross the hot air inlet. Disconnect thevacuum pipe, and suck hard at the controlvalve stub; the flap should rise to shut off thecold air inlet. 6 If either component is faulty, it must berenewed as described below.

Component renewal

Thermac switch7 Remove the air cleaner assembly asdescribed in Section 2.8 Release the lid retaining clips, then removethe lid and withdraw the air cleaner filterelement.9 Disconnect the vacuum pipe (seeillustration), then bend up the tags on theswitch clip. Remove the clip, then withdrawthe switch and its seal.10 Refitting is the reverse sequence toremoval, ensuring that the switch matingsurfaces are clean, and that the switch andseal are correctly located before fastening theclip.

Air temperature control valve11 Disconnect the vacuum pipe from thevalve, then unclip the inlet duct from the aircleaner and remove it from the enginecompartment.12 The air temperature control valve can berenewed only with the complete inlet ductassembly. If a new inlet duct assembly isbeing fitted, undo the three screws securingthe hot air inlet adapter plate to the bottom ofthe duct, and transfer the adapter plate to thenew duct (see illustration).13 Clip the duct into position in the aircleaner, and reconnect the vacuum pipe.

4 Accelerator cable - removal,refitting and adjustment 2

Removal1 Remove the air cleaner assembly asdescribed in Section 2.2 Remove the engine management ECU asdescribed Section 13.3 Slacken the accelerator cable locknuts, andfree the outer cable from its mounting bracket.Release the inner cable from the throttle cam.4 Work back along the outer cable, releasingit from any relevant retaining clamps and ties,and from the engine compartment bulkhead. 5 Working from inside the car release theheater duct from underneath the driver’s sideof the facia panel, to gain access to the upperend of the accelerator pedal.

Fuel system - fuel injection engines 4B•3

4B

2.1 Undo the three retaining screws . . . 2.2a . . . then lift up the air cleanerassembly, and disconnect the intake airtemperature sensor wiring connector . . .

2.2b . . . and the thermac valve vacuumpipe

3.9 Disconnecting the vacuum pipe fromthe thermac valve

3.12 Removing the air cleaner intake ductadapter

6 Remove the accelerator cable retaining clip,then release the cable from the upper end ofthe accelerator pedal. Return to the enginecompartment, and withdraw the cable fromthe bulkhead.

Refitting and adjustment7 Refitting is the reverse sequence toremoval, ensuring that the cable is correctlyrouted. Prior to tightening the cable locknuts,the cable should be adjusted as follows.8 With the pedal fully released, position thelocknuts so that there is equal clearancepresent on each side of the throttle lever atthe lost motion link and no slack in the cable(see illustration). Have an assistant fullydepress the pedal, and check that the throttlecam opens fully, then check that it returns tothe at-rest position when released.9 To adjust the cable, switch on the ignitionand position the stepper motor by moving thecam only to open, and fully close the throttle(see illustration). Note that it is essential foraccurate positioning of the stepper motor thatthe accelerator pedal switch contacts remainclosed, so that the ECU recognises thethrottle movement as a command, andindexes the stepper motor.10 Slacken the adjuster locknut, then tightenthe adjuster nut until the clearance is equal oneach side of the throttle lever at the lostmotion link, tighten the locknut withoutdisturbing this setting (see illustration).Recheck the adjustment, and switch off theignition.

5 Accelerator pedal - removaland refitting 1

Refer to Part A, Section 4.

6 Fuel system -depressurisation 1

Note: Refer to the warning note in Section 1before proceeding.

Warning: The followingprocedure will merely relieve thepressure in the fuel system -remember that fuel will still be

present in the system components, andtake precautions accordingly beforedisconnecting any of them.1 The fuel system referred to in this Section isdefined as the tank mounted fuel pump, thefuel filter, the fuel injector and the pressureregulator in the injector housing, and themetal pipes and flexible hoses of the fuel linesbetween these components. All these containfuel which will be under pressure while theengine is running and/or while the ignition isswitched on. The pressure will remain forsome time after the ignition has beenswitched off, and must be relieved before anyof these components are disturbed forservicing work.2 Disconnect the battery negative lead.

3 Place a suitable container beneath therelevant connection/union to bedisconnected, and have a large rag ready tosoak up any escaping fuel not being caughtby the container.4 Loosen the connection or union nut (asapplicable) slowly to avoid a sudden releaseof pressure, and position the rag around theconnection to catch any fuel spray which maybe expelled. Once the pressure is released,disconnect the fuel line, and insert suitableplugs to minimise fuel loss and prevent theentry of dirt into the fuel system.

7 Fuel system - pressure check 4Note: The following procedure is based on theuse of the Rover pressure gauge and adapter(service tool number 18G1500).1 Depressurise the fuel system as describedin Section 6, then release the retaining clipand disconnect the flexible fuel feed hose atits union to the metal fuel pipe which issecured to the engine compartment bulkhead,just behind the throttle body assembly; thefeed pipe is the lower of the two.2 Connect the gauge into the fuel linebetween the hose and pipe, and check that itis securely retained.3 Reconnect the battery and start the engine;the pressure should be steady at the specifiedregulated injection pressure. Stop the engineand watch the gauge; the pressure drop in thefirst minute should not exceed 0.7 bars.4 If the regulated pressure recorded was toohigh, the pressure regulator must be renewed;this means renewing the complete injectorhousing assembly.5 If the pressure first recorded was too low,or if it falls too quickly, check the systemcarefully for leaks. If no leaks are found, first


4.10 . . . then adjust the locknut andadjuster nut as described in text

4.8 Accelerator cable adjustment - fuel-injected models

1 Throttle lever-to-lost motionlink clearance should be equalon each side

2 Adjuster locknut3 Adjuster nut

4.9 To adjust the accelerator cable, index the stepper motor . . .

renew the fuel filter (see Chapter 1), thencheck the pump by substituting a new one,and recheck the pressure. If the pressuredoes not improve, the fault is in the pressureregulator, and the complete injector housingassembly must be renewed; if this is the case,it is worth dismantling the regulator first tocheck that the fault is not due to its beingjammed open with dirt, or similar.

8 Fuel tank - removal andrefitting 2


Removal1 Before the tank can be removed, it must bedrained of as much fuel as possible. To avoidthe dangers and complications of fuelhandling and storage, it is advisable to carryout this operation with the tank almost empty.Any fuel remaining can be drained as follows.2 Disconnect the battery negative lead.3 Using a hand pump or syphon insertedthrough the filler neck, remove any remainingfuel from the bottom of the tank. Do this in awell ventilated area, not in a garage or over aninspection pit4 Remove the luggage compartment carpetand the spare wheel.5 Release the two retaining studs, andremove the trim panel from the side of the fueltank.6 Disconnect the wiring connectors from thefuel gauge sender unit. 7 Release the retaining clip, and disconnectthe vent pipe from the fuel tank.8 Bearing in mind the information containedin Section 6 on depressurising the fuelsystem, release the retaining clips anddisconnect the fuel feed and return hosesfrom the tank; the feed hose is marked with ayellow band, and the return hose is unmarked.9 Undo the fuel tank strap retaining bolt, thenremove the strengthening plate and move thestrap to one side.10 Release the fuel tank filler neck from itsgrommet, and remove the grommet from thecar.11 Peel back the rubber cover, thendisconnect the wiring connector from the fuelpump, and remove the fuel tank from thevehicle.

Refitting12 Refitting is the reverse sequence toremoval, ensuring that all hoses are correctlyreconnected and securely fastened so thatthere can be no risk of fuel leakage.

9 Fuel pump - removal andrefitting 2


Removal1 Remove the fuel tank as described inSection 8.2 Release the retaining clip, and disconnectthe two-way breather valve vent hose fromthe fuel tank. Unclip the valve and hoseassembly from the tank seam, and remove it.3 Slacken and remove the six fuel pumpretaining nuts, then carefully withdraw thepump assembly from the tank, and removethe pump seal.

Refitting4 Examine the pump seal for signs of damageor deterioration and, if necessary, renew it.5 Ensure that the pump and tank matingsurfaces are clean and dry, and fit the sealonto the fuel tank.6 Carefully install the pump assembly, thenrefit the pump retaining nuts and tighten themto the specified torque.7 Clip the two-way valve and hose assemblyback onto the tank seam, then reconnect thevent hose to the tank, securing it in positionwith its retaining clip.8 Refit the fuel tank as described in Section 8.

10 Fuel gauge sender unit -removal and refitting 2

Refer to Part A, Section 8.

11 Unleaded petrol - generalinformation and usage

Note: The information given in this Chapter iscorrect at the time of writing. If updatedinformation is thought to be required, checkwith a Rover dealer. If travelling abroad,consult one of the motoring organisations (or asimilar authority) for advice on the fuelavailable.

All fuel injection models are designed to runon fuel with a minimum octane rating of 95(RON). All models are equipped with catalyticconverters, and therefore must be run onunleaded fuel only. Under no circumstancesshould leaded fuel be used, as this maydamage the catalytic converter.

Super unleaded petrol (97/98 RON) canalso be used in all models if wished, thoughthere is no advantage in doing so.

12 Fuel injection system -testing and adjustment 3

Testing1 If a fault appears in the fuel injectionsystem, first ensure that all the system wiringconnectors are securely connected and freeof corrosion. Ensure that the fault is not due topoor maintenance; ie, check that the aircleaner filter element is clean, the spark plugsare in good condition and correctly gapped,the valve clearances are correctly adjusted,the cylinder compression pressures arecorrect, and that the engine breather hosesare clear and undamaged, referring toChapters 1 and 2 for further information.2 If these checks fail to reveal the cause ofthe problem, the vehicle should be taken to asuitably-equipped Rover dealer for testing. Awiring block connector is incorporated in theengine management circuit, into which aspecial electronic diagnostic tester can beplugged. The tester will locate the fault quicklyand simply, alleviating the need to test all thesystem components individually, which is atime-consuming operation that also carries arisk of damaging the ECU.

Adjustment3 Experienced home mechanics with aconsiderable amount of skill and equipment(including a tachometer and an accuratelycalibrated exhaust gas analyser) may be ableto check the exhaust CO level and the idlespeed. However, if these are found to be inneed of adjustment, the car must be taken toa suitably-equipped Rover dealer for furthertesting. Note: There is no provision for theadjustment or alteration of these settings,except by reprogramming the ECU usingRover diagnostic equipment; if checking theidle speed, remember that it will varyconstantly under ECU control.

13 Fuel injection systemcomponents - removal andrefitting

3Throttle bodyNote: Refer to the warning note in Section 1before proceeding.

Removal1 Remove the air cleaner assembly, asdescribed in Section 2.2 Slacken and remove the bolt and retainingclip securing the fuel pipes to the bulkhead(see illustration). Examine the injectorhousing fuel pipe feed and return unions forsigns of leakage, then wipe them clean.3 Bearing in mind the information containedin Section 6 on depressurising the fuelsystem, using an open-ended spanner to hold


4B

each adapter, unscrew the pipe union nuts,and release the fuel feed and return pipesfrom the adapters (see illustration). Plugeach pipe and adapter, to minimise the loss offuel and prevent the entry of dirt into thesystem. 4 Release the wire retaining clips, anddisconnect the wiring connectors from theinjector housing, the throttle potentiometerand the stepper motor.5 Slacken the accelerator cable locknuts, andfree the outer cable from its mounting bracket.Release the inner cable from the throttle cam.6 Release the retaining clip(s), anddisconnect the breather and purge valvehoses from the front of the throttle body (seeillustration).7 On models with automatic transmission,disconnect the governor control rod from thethrottle linkage.8 Slacken and remove the four nuts securingthe throttle body to the inlet manifold, thenremove the throttle body from the car.Remove the insulating spacer, and examine itfor signs of wear or damage, renewing it ifnecessary.9 If leakage was detected from the feed andreturn pipes or their union nuts, check thesealing surfaces of the nuts and adapters, andrenew the adapter or the pipe assembly asnecessary. If leakage was detected from theadapters, unscrew each through one turn witha spanner, then through two turns by hand; ifthe adapter is still a tight fit in the housing, thethreads are damaged, and the housing andadapters must be renewed as a set. If the

threads are sound, fit new sealing washers tothe adapters and refit them, tightening themto their specified torque wrench setting.

Refitting10 Refitting is the reverse sequence toremoval, noting the following points:a) Ensure that the mating surfaces of the

throttle body and inlet manifold are clean,then fit the insulating spacer.

b) Tighten the throttle body nuts and fuelpipe union nuts to their specified torquesettings. Note that when tightening theinjector housing fuel pipe union nuts, donot use an open-ended spanner to retainthe adapters; this will ensure that theadapters are securely tightened in theinjector housing.

c) On completion, reconnect and adjust theaccelerator cable as described in Section4.

Injector housingNote: Refer to the warning note in Section 1before proceeding.

Removal11 Carry out the operations described inparagraphs 1 to 3.12 Release the wire retaining clip, anddisconnect the wiring connector from theinjector housing (see illustration).13 Remove the four screws securing theinjector housing to the throttle body (seeillustration), then lift off the injector housingand remove the gasket.14 If leakage was detected from the fuel feed

and/or return pipes, perform the checksdescribed in paragraph 9.

Refitting15 Refitting is the reverse sequence toremoval, noting the following points:a) Ensure that the injector and throttle body

mating surfaces are clean, and fit a newgasket.

b) Apply thread-locking compound (Roverrecommended Loctite Screwlock orNutlock) to the threads of the injectorhousing screws, then tighten them to thespecified torque.

c) Tighten the fuel pipe union nuts to thespecified torque setting, noting that whentightening the union nuts, do not use anopen-ended spanner to retain theadapters; this will ensure that theadapters are securely tightened in thehousing.

Fuel injectorNote: As a Rover replacement part, theinjector is available only as part of the injectorhousing. Note, however, that it is a Bosch-manufactured component, and can beobtained separately through Bosch agents.Refer to the warning note in Section 1 beforeproceeding.

Removal16 Disconnect the battery negative lead.17 Remove the air cleaner assembly asdescribed in Section 2.18 Slacken and remove the injectorconnector cap retaining screw, and lift off theconnector cap (see illustration). As the screwis slackened, place a clean rag over the cap tocatch any fuel spray which may be released.The injector can then be lifted out of thehousing.

Refitting19 Refitting is the reverse sequence toremoval, ensuring that the connector capmakes good contact with the injector pins.

Fuel pressure regulator20 The fuel pressure regulator is availableonly as part of the injector housing assembly.Refer to paragraphs 11 to 15 for details onremoval and refitting.


13.2 Undo the retaining bolt (arrowed) andremove the fuel pipe retaining clip

13.3 Retain the adapters with an open-ended spanner whilst slackening the fuel

pipe union nuts

13.6 Disconnect the breather and purgevalve hoses from the front of the throttle

body assembly

13.12 Disconnecting the injector housingwiring connector

13.13 Injector housing retaining screws(arrowed)

Stepper motor

Removal21 Remove the injector housing as describedin paragraphs 11 to 14. 22 Release the retaining clip, and disconnectthe stepper motor wiring connector.23 Remove the four stepper motor retainingscrews, and remove the stepper motorassembly from the throttle body. Do notattempt to dismantle the assembly.

Refitting24 Refitting is the reverse sequence toremoval, ensuring that the throttle body andmotor mating surfaces are clean. Oncompletion, adjust the accelerator cable asdescribed in Section 4, to ensure that thestepper motor is correctly indexed.

Throttle potentiometer

Removal25 Although not strictly necessary, access isgreatly improved if the air cleaner assembly isfirst removed, as described in Section 2. 26 Disconnect the battery negative lead.27 Release the wire retaining clip, anddisconnect the potentiometer wiringconnector.

28 Remove the two screws, and remove thepotentiometer from the throttle body, notinghow its tongue engages with the throttle discspindle lever. Withdraw the spacer if required.

Refitting29 Refitting is the reverse sequence toremoval, noting the following points:a) Carefully clean the mating surfaces of the

throttle body, the spacer and thepotentiometer, then refit the spacer.

b) Refit the potentiometer so that its tongueengages FORWARD of (ie “inside”) thethrottle disc spindle lever, then rotate thethrottle cam to check the action of thelever and tongue.

c) Securely tighten the potentiometerscrews, then recheck the potentiometeroperation before reconnecting the wiringconnector.

Engine management ECU

Removal30 Disconnect the battery negative lead, andundo the two bolts securing the ECUmounting bracket to the right-hand wingvalance (see illustration).31 Withdraw the ECU from the engine

compartment, disconnecting its wiringconnectors and the manifold absolutepressure sensor vacuum hose as theybecome accessible (see illustration).32 If necessary, undo the three screws andseparate the ECU from its mounting bracket.

Refitting33 Refitting is the reverse sequence toremoval, ensuring that the wiring connectorsand vacuum hose are securely reconnected.Due to the nature of the ECU, if a new ordifferent ECU has been fitted, it may take ashort while for full idle control to be restored.

Manifold absolute pressure(MAP) sensor34 This is part of the ECU, and is removedand refitted as described in the previous sub-section.35 The sensor’s vacuum hose runs from theinlet manifold to the ECU via a fuel (vapour)trap mounted on the engine compartmentbulkhead.36 To remove the fuel trap, first remove the aircleaner assembly as described in Section 2.Release the fuel trap from its retaining clip,then disconnect the two vacuum hoses, notingtheir correct fitted positions, and remove itfrom the engine compartment (seeillustration).37 On refitting, ensure that the vacuumhoses are reconnected to their original unions;the hoses are colour-coded to ensure correctreconnection.

Inlet air temperature sensor

Removal38 Disconnect the battery negative lead.39 Remove the air cleaner assembly asdescribed in Section 2.40 Unscrew the sensor, and remove it fromthe base of the air cleaner housing (seeillustration).


4B

13.31 . . . then withdraw the ECU anddisconnect the vacuum hose and wiring

connectors

13.36 Removing the manifold absolutepressure (MAP) sensor fuel

13.18 Injector cap retaining screw “A” and fuel pressure regulatorretaining screws “B”

13.30 Undo the ECU mounting bracket-to-wing valance retainingbolts (arrowed) . . .

Refitting41 Refitting is the reverse sequence toremoval. Tighten the sensor to the specifiedtorque wrench setting.

Coolant temperature sensor -removal and refitting

Removal42 The coolant temperature sensor is fittedto the underside of the inlet manifold, andaccess to the sensor is strictly limited.Therefore, to remove the sensor, it will first benecessary to remove the inlet manifold asdescribed in Section 15. The sensor can beunscrewed and removed from the manifold.

Refitting43 Wipe clean the threads of the switch andinlet manifold. If a sealing washer is fitted,apply a smear of sealant to the switchthreads. 44 Refit the switch to the manifold, andtighten it securely. Refit the manifold asdescribed in Section 15.

Accelerator pedal switch

Removal45 Working from inside the car, release theheater duct from underneath the driver’s sideof the facia panel, and position it clear of theaccelerator pedal.46 Using a suitable pair of pliers, unhook theaccelerator pedal return spring from thepedal.47 Release the switch wiring connector fromits retaining clip, and disconnect it (seeillustration).48 Slacken and remove the accelerator pedalswitch mounting bracket retaining bolt, andremove the switch and bracket assembly fromthe car (see illustration).49 Prise off the C-clip, and remove theswitch from the mounting bracket, noting thewave washer which is fitted between theswitch and bracket.

Refitting 50 Refitting is the reverse sequence toremoval.

Fuel cut-off inertia switch51 The fuel cut-off inertia switch is mountedonto the left-hand side of the enginecompartment bulkhead (see illustration). If theswitch has tripped, it can be reset by pressingin the button situated at the top of the switch.

Removal52 Slacken and remove the two screwssecuring the cut-off switch to the bulkhead,then disconnect the wiring connector andremove the switch.

Refitting53 Reconnect the wiring connector, then refitthe switch to the bulkhead and tighten itsretaining screws securely. Reset the switch bydepressing the button on the top of theswitch.

Relay module54 The relay module contains the four mainrelays which control the engine managementsystem; the starter relay, the fuel pump relay,


13.48 . . . then undo the retaining bolt (arrowed) and remove theaccelerator pedal switch assembly from the car

13.51 Fuel cut-off inertia switch (arrowed) is mounted onto theleft-hand side of the engine compartment bulkhead

13.40 Removing the intake air temperature sensor from the aircleaner housing

13.47 Disconnect the wiring connector . . .

the main relay and the manifold PTC heaterrelay. If a fault develops in any one of thesystem relays, the complete relay modulemust be renewed; it is not possible to renewthe separate relays individually.

Removal55 Slide the relay off its mounting bracket inthe right-hand rear corner of the enginecompartment, then disconnect its wiringconnectors and remove it from the car (seeillustration).

Refitting 56 Refitting is the reverse sequence toremoval.

14 Inlet manifold PTC heater -general information andcomponent renewal 3

General information1 The system incorporates the manifold PTC(Positive Temperature Coefficient) heater, therelay and the coolant temperature sensor.2 When the ignition is switched on and theengine is cold (coolant below 50ºC), the relay-energising current is supplied by the enginemanagement ECU, which then closes therelay contacts and allows current to flow fromthe battery to the heater. This ensures that theinlet manifold is warm enough, even beforethe effect of the coolant heating becomesapparent, to prevent fuel droplets condensingin the manifold, thus improving driveabilityand reducing exhaust emissions when theengine is cold.3 As soon as the engine warms up totemperatures above 50ºC, the ECU switchesoff the supply current, and the relay cuts offthe power supply to the manifold heater.4 If the engine suddenly develops flat spotswhen cold, the system may be faulty.

Component renewal

PTC heater5 The PTC heater is fitted to the underside ofthe inlet manifold, and access to the heater isstrictly limited. Therefore, to remove theheater, it will first be necessary to remove theinlet manifold as described in Section 15. Withthe manifold on the bench, using circlip pliers,remove the circlip and withdraw the heater.Inspect the rubber sealing ring for signs ofdamage or deterioration, and renew ifnecessary.6 On refitting, ensure that the heater locatingprojection is correctly engaged in the manifoldrecess, then secure the switch in position withits circlip. Refit the manifold to the car asdescribed in Section 15.

PTC heater relay 7 The manifold PTC heater relay is an integralpart of the relay module, and can be removedand refitted as described in Section 13.

15 Inlet manifold - removal andrefitting 3

Removal1 Disconnect the battery negative lead.2 Remove the bonnet as described inChapter 11.3 Remove the air cleaner assembly asdescribed in Section 2.4 Drain the cooling system as described inChapter 1.5 Carry out the operations described inparagraphs 2 to 7 of Section 13.6 Undo the union bolt securing the brakeservo vacuum hose to the manifold, andrecover the hose union sealing washers (seeillustration).7 Slacken the two hose clips, and disconnect

the two coolant hoses from the left-hand sideof the manifold.8 Disconnect the two vacuum hoses from therear of the inlet manifold, noting their correctfitted positions; the hoses are colour codedfor identification purposes.9 Slacken and remove the four nuts securingthe inlet manifold to the cylinder head, thenremove the manifold from the engine,disconnecting the manifold PTC heater andcoolant temperature sensor wiring connectorsas they become accessible. Remove the tworings from the inlet manifold bore.

Refitting10 Refitting is the reverse sequence toremoval, noting the following points:a) Although not strictly necessary, it is also

recommended that the exhaust manifoldis removed, as described in Part C of thisChapter, so that the manifold gasket canbe renewed before the inlet manifold isrefitted.

b) If leakage was detected from the fuel feedand/or return pipes, perform the checksdescribed in Section 13, paragraph 9.

c) Ensure that the manifold and gasket facesare clean, and that the two locating ringsare in position in the manifold boresbefore refitting the manifold.

d) Tighten the manifold retaining nuts to thespecified torque setting.

e) Ensure that all relevant hoses arereconnected to their original positions,and are securely held (where necessary)by the retaining clips.

f) Renew the vacuum servo unit vacuumhose banjo union sealing washers, andtighten the union bolt to the specifiedtorque.

g) Prior to refitting the air cleaner assembly,adjust the accelerator cable as describedin Section 4.

h) On completion, refill the cooling systemas described in Chapter 1.


4B

13.55 Relay module is situated on the right-hand side of theengine compartment

15.6 Inlet manifold brake servo unit vacuum hose union bolt(arrowed)

4C

Chapter 4 Part C:Exhaust and emission control systems

Torque wrench settings Nm lbf ftThermostatic vacuum valve - 1992-on models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7Manifold retaining nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 16Lambda sensor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55 41Fuel tank breather two-way valve nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 6

Air pump drivebelt check and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1Catalytic converter - general information and precautions . . . . . . . . 9Crankcase emission control system - checking and component

renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5Emission control system check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1Evaporative emission control system - checking and component

renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6Exhaust emission control system (models with catalytic converter) -

checking and component renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8

Exhaust emission control system (models without catalytic converter) -checking and component renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7

Exhaust manifold - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4Exhaust system check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1Exhaust system (models with catalytic converter) - removal and

refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3Exhaust system (models without catalytic converter) - removal and

refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1Underbonnet check for fluid leaks and hose condition . .See Chapter 1

4C•1

Specifications

Contents







54321


Exhaust systemThe exhaust system fitted to all Mini models

covered by this manual, except Cooper S,consists of an exhaust manifold and a tubularsteel exhaust system in either single ormultiple sections. A single silencer is fitted tothe rear section of early models; later versionsincorporate an additional intermediatesilencer or catalytic converter. The systemfitted to Cooper S models comprises a threebranch manifold, a front pipe and separatetailpipe incorporating a silencer. Certainversions have a second silencer locatedbeneath the floor pan.

On all models the exhaust system is flexiblyattached to the car by two rubber mountingson the rear subframe and a bracket at thebase of the transmission.

Emission control systemsCertain early models and all later models

covered by this manual have various features

built into the fuel and exhaust systems to helpminimise harmful emissions. These featuresfall broadly into three categories; crankcaseemission control, evaporative emissioncontrol, and exhaust emission control. Themain features of these systems are as follows.

Crankcase emission controlTo reduce the emissions of unburned

hydrocarbons from the crankcase into theatmosphere, a positive crankcase ventilationsystem is used whereby the engine is sealedand the blow-by gasses and oil vapour aredrawn from inside the crankcase, through anoil separator, into the inlet tract to be burnedby the engine during normal combustion.

Under conditions of high manifolddepression (idling, deceleration) the gasseswill be sucked positively out of the crankcase.Under conditions of low manifold depression(acceleration, full-throttle running) the gassesare forced out of the crankcase by the(relatively) higher crankcase pressure; if theengine is worn, the raised crankcase pressure(due to increased blow-by) will cause some ofthe flow to return under all manifoldconditions.

Evaporative emission control

The evaporative emission control system isused to minimise the escape of unburnedhydrocarbons into the atmosphere.

The fuel tank filler cap is sealed, and acharcoal canister is mounted underneath theleft-hand wheel arch to collect the petrolvapours generated in the tank, and on somemodels in the carburettor float chamber, whenthe car is parked. It stores them until they canbe cleared from the canister into the inlettract, to be burned by the engine duringnormal combustion.

On early carburettor models, the vapourswere drawn into the inlet tract whenever theengine was running. On later catalyticconverter equipped carburettor models, athermostatic vacuum valve screwed into thefront of the thermostat housing controls theflow of vapour from the canister to the engine.To ensure that the engine runs correctly whenit is cold, and to protect the catalyticconverter from the effects of an over-richmixture, the thermostatic vacuum valve doesnot open until the engine has warmed up toapproximately 70ºC. The valve then allowsinlet manifold vacuum to act upon the purgevalve vacuum diaphragm fitted to the top ofthe charcoal canister, which in turn opens the

4C•2 Exhaust and emission control systems

2.2 Typical exhaust system support brackets and mountings

canister and allows the stored vapour into theinlet tract.

On fuel injection models, the enginemanagement ECU controls the flow of vapourfrom the canister to the engine, via anelectrically-operated purge control valve.

The purge control valve is not opened bythe ECU until the engine has warmed up toabove 70ºC, the engine speed exceeds 1500rpm and manifold absolute pressure is below30 kPa; the control valve solenoid is thenmodulated on and off to allow the storedvapour to pass into the inlet tract.

Exhaust emission control -carburettor models without catalyticconverter

The basis of this system, used on certainearly models, is an air pump which supplies airunder pressure to the cylinder head exhaustport of each cylinder, via an air injectionmanifold. A check valve is incorporated in theair delivery pipe to prevent a blow-back ofexhaust gases from reaching the pump. Airfrom the pump is also supplied to the inletmanifold via a gulp valve to weaken the richfuel/air mixture in the manifold during enginedeceleration and overrun.

The air pump is of the rotary vane type andis mounted at the front of the cylinder head.Drive to the pump is by a V-belt from thewater pump pulley. Air enters the pumpthrough an extraction filter on early models, orthrough radial air inlets around the pulley onlater versions. At high engine speeds, excessair is discharged to atmosphere through arelief valve.

A diverter valve is incorporated in the airdelivery pipe between the air pump and checkvalve. The valve is operated by a cable on earlymodels, or activated by a vacuum switch onlater types, whenever the choke control ispulled out. During choke operation, air from thepump is cut off and diverted to atmosphere.

When the throttle is closed duringdeceleration or overrun, a rich fuel/air mixtureis created in the inlet manifold. The gulp valvefitted between the air pump and manifold isactivated by the depression also created inthe manifold during these conditions, andopens to admit air from the air pump. Themixture is thus weakened preventingexcessive exhaust emissions when thethrottle is reopened. A restrictor is also fittedin the air feed to the gulp valve and preventssurging when the valve is in operation.

Exhaust emission control -carburettor models with catalyticconverter

From approximately 1990 onwards certainmodels were fitted with an unregulated or“open-loop” catalytic converter to minimiseexhaust pollution. The converter consists ofan element (or “substrate”) of ceramichoneycomb coated with a combination ofprecious metals (platinum and rhodium) insuch a way as to produce a vast surface areaover which the exhaust gasses must flow; the

assembly being mounted in a stainless-steelbox in the vehicle’s exhaust system. Theprecious metals act as catalysts to speed upthe reaction between the pollutants and theoxygen in the car’s exhaust gasses. HC and

CO being oxidised to form H2O and CO2.

Exhaust emission control - fuelinjection models

All fuel-injection models are equipped witha catalytic converter in the exhaust system.The system, unlike that fitted to carburettormodels, is a “closed-loop” system. TheLambda sensor in the exhaust manifoldprovides the engine management ECU withconstant feedback on exhaust gas content,which enables the ECU to adjust the inletfuel/air mixture to keep the converteroperating at maximum efficiency.

The Lambda sensor has a built-in heatingelement, controlled by the ECU through theLambda sensor relay to quickly bring thesensor’s tip to an efficient operatingtemperature. The sensor’s top is sensitive tooxygen, and sends the ECU a varying voltage

depending on the amount of oxygen in theexhaust gases; if the inlet air/fuel mixture is

too rich, the exhaust gases are low in oxygen,so the sensor sends a low-voltage signal; thevoltage rises as the mixture weakens and theamount of oxygen in the exhaust gases rises.Peak conversion efficiency of all majorpollutants occurs if the inlet air/fuel mixture ismaintained at the chemically-correct ratio forthe complete combustion of petrol - 14.7parts (by weight) of air to 1 part of fuel (the“stoichiometric” ratio). The sensor outputvoltage alters in a large step at this point, theECU using the signal change as a referencepoint, correcting the inlet fuel/air mixtureaccordingly by altering the fuel injector pulsewidth.

2 Exhaust system (modelswithout catalytic converter) -removal and refitting

1All models except Cooper S

Removal1 Working in the engine compartment,

Exhaust and emission control systems 4C•3

4C

3.2 Exhaust front pipe fitted to models with catalytic converter

1 Catalytic converter flange nuts2 Gas sampling pipe union nut3 Gas sampling pipe mounting bolt

4 Front pipe mounting nut5 Front pipe-to-manifold clamp and

bolts

Position a jack under theexhaust front pipe and raiseit just sufficiently to hold thebellmouth tightly against the

manifold flange. This will ensure thatthe joint is properly seated as the clampis fitted.

Apply liberal amounts ofreleasing oil to the exhausttailpipe-to-front pipe joint ifit is reluctant to come free,

and allow it time to soak in.

remove the air cleaner (see Part A of thisChapter) and detach the throttle return springfrom the bracket on the exhaust manifoldclamp.2 Undo and remove the nuts and bolts andwithdraw the manifold clamp (seeillustration).3 Position the car over an inspection pit, oralternatively jack it up and support it on axlestands (see “Jacking and vehicle support”).4 From underneath the car, undo and removethe nut and bolt securing the exhaust frontpipe to the transmission or transmissionbracket.5 Now undo and remove the nuts and springwashers securing the exhaust intermediateand rear mounting brackets to the rubberblocks on the rear subframe. Slide thebrackets off the studs on the rubber blocksand lower the complete system to the ground.6 Carefully inspect the rubber mountingblocks, the exhaust system brackets andclamps for signs of deterioration, corrosion ordamage and renew as necessary.

Refitting7 To refit the exhaust system, place it inposition under the car and locate the bracketsonto the rubber mounting blocks at the rear.Refit the nuts and spring washers but do nottighten at this stage.8 Before positioning the bellmouth of thefront pipe over the manifold flange, smear itsmating surface with sealing paste. Doing thiswill obviate any risk of leakage. With the helpof an assistant, locate the bellmouth squarelyover the flange on the manifold. Hold thesystem in this position and refit the manifoldclamp. Ensure that the pipe is square and thatthe clamp is seated properly over the pipeand manifold flanges otherwise leaks willoccur at this joint.9 Now fully tighten the manifold clampsecuring bolts and refit the throttle returnspring.10 Check that the exhaust system is clear ofthe subframe and floor pan over its entirelength and that it is not in tension. Now fullytighten the rear mountings.11 Lower the car to the ground, refit the aircleaner, start the engine and check for leaks.

Cooper S models

Removal12 Position the car over an inspection pit, oralternatively jack it up and support it on axlestands (see “Jacking and vehicle support”).13 If the rear silencer and tailpipe only are tobe removed, slacken the exhaust clampsecuring the rear silencer to the front pipe andthen remove the retaining clip securing thetailpipe to the rear mounting. Twist the rearsilencer back and forth to separate the joint and

then withdraw the tailpipe from under the car.14 To remove the complete system, slackenthe front pipe to exhaust manifold clamp, andundo and remove the bolts securing the rearmountings to the subframe. Twist thecomplete system back and forth to free thejoint and lower it to the ground.

Refitting15 In all cases, refitting is the reverse ofremoval.

3 Exhaust system (modelswith catalytic converter) -removal and refitting

1Tailpipe and silencer

Removal1 Position the car over an inspection pit, oralternatively jack it up and support it on axlestands (see “Jacking and vehicle support”).2 Slacken and remove the two nuts securingthe tailpipe flange to the catalytic converterstuds (see illustration).3 Either slacken and remove the nuts andbolts securing the tailpipe and silencer to itsmounting brackets, or release it from itsmounting rubbers (as applicable), thenwithdraw the assembly from underneath thecar and recover the flange gasket.

Refitting4 Refitting is the reverse sequence toremoval, ensuring that the flange matingsurfaces are clean and free of corrosion, andusing a new gasket.

Catalytic converter

Removal5 Remove the tailpipe and silencer assemblyas described above.6 Unscrew the two nuts securing the catalyticconverter to the front pipe, then withdraw thecatalytic converter from underneath the carand recover the flange gasket.

Refitting7 Refitting is the reverse sequence toremoval, ensuring that the flange matingsurfaces are clean and free of corrosion andusing new gaskets.

Front pipe

Removal8 On carburettor models, remove the aircleaner assembly (see Part A of this Chapter).9 Position the car over an inspection pit, oralternatively jack it up and support it on axlestands (see “Jacking and vehicle support”).10 Slacken and remove the two nutssecuring the catalytic converter to the front

pipe. Unscrew the nut and bolt securing thefront pipe to the bracket on the transmission.11 On Cooper models, undo the gassampling pipe mounting bolts, then slackenits union nut and remove the pipe from theside of the exhaust front pipe.12 On all carburettor models, unbolt theexhaust front pipe-to-manifold clamp(s), thenremove the front pipe from underneath thecar, and recover the flange gasket from thecatalytic converter.13 On fuel injection models, undo the threenuts securing the front pipe to the exhaustmanifold, then release the pipe from themanifold and catalytic converter studs.Remove the front pipe from underneath thecar, and recover the flange gaskets.

Refitting14 Refitting is the reverse sequence toremoval, ensuring that the mating surfaces ofthe exhaust system are clean and free fromcorrosion. Fit a new gasket to the catalyticconverter flange, and apply a smear of sealingpaste to the front pipe-to-manifold joint, toalleviate any risk of leakage.

4 Exhaust manifold - removaland refitting 3

Carburettor models exceptCooper S1 The exhaust manifold fitted to allcarburettor models except Cooper S isremoved as an assembly with the inletmanifold. Full details on this procedure will befound in Part A of this Chapter.

Cooper S carburettor models

Removal2 Remove the carburettors and inlet manifoldas described in Part A of this Chapter. 3 Remove the complete exhaust system asdescribed in Section 2 of this Part. 4 Undo and remove the nuts and flat washerssecuring the manifold to the cylinder headstuds. Now ease the manifold off the studsand carefully manipulate it out of the enginecompartment.5 Before removing the LCB (long centrebranch) exhaust manifold, refer to Chapter 8and detach the right-hand driveshaft at theinboard end.6 Refer to Chapter 10 and remove the right-hand front roadwheel, disconnect the steeringtie-rod, the swivel hub at its upper and lowerpoints, and partially withdraw the hub anddriveshaft. Do not allow the assembly to hangfrom the brake hose.7 Turn the differential driving flange so that itis upright. Release the exhaust manifold fromthe cylinder head, manoeuvre it to the right toclear the subframe and transmission casingbefore easing it upwards.

Refitting


Position a jack under theexhaust front pipe and raiseit just sufficiently to hold the

bellmouth tightly against the manifoldflange. This will ensure that the joint isproperly seated as the clamp is fitted.

8 Refitting is the reverse sequence toremoval, but use a new manifold gasket.

Fuel injection models

Removal9 Remove the inlet manifold as described inPart B of this Chapter.10 Chock the rear wheels then jack up thefront of the car and support it on axle stands(see “Jacking and vehicle support”).11 Working from underneath the vehicle,slacken and remove the single bolt securingthe exhaust front pipe to its mounting bracketon the transmission. Undo the three nutssecuring the front pipe to the exhaustmanifold, and release the pipe from themanifold studs.12 Track the wiring back from the exhaustmanifold Lambda sensor, releasing it from anyrelevant retaining clips, and disconnect it fromthe main wiring harness.13 Slacken and remove the three heat shieldretaining bolts, and remove the heat shieldfrom the manifold.14 Undo the two remaining exhaust manifoldnuts, and slide the breather pipe off themanifold stud. Disengage the manifold fromits mounting studs, and remove it from theengine compartment. Remove the manifoldgasket, and discard it.15 Examine all the exhaust manifold studs for

signs of damage and corrosion; remove alltraces of corrosion, and repair or renew anydamaged studs.

Refitting16 Refitting is the reverse sequence toremoval, noting the following points:a) Ensure that the exhaust manifold and

cylinder head mating surfaces are cleanand free from corrosion, and fit a newgasket onto the manifold studs.

b) Tighten the manifold nuts to the specifiedtorque, not forgetting to refit the breatherpipe to the left-hand stud.

c) Fit a new gasket at the manifold to thefront pipe flange joint, and securelytighten all other disturbed fasteners.

5 Crankcase emission controlsystem - checking andcomponent renewal 1

The crankcase emission control systemconsists simply of a number of ventilationhoses, an oil separator on the left-handcylinder block side cover, or on the timingchain cover, and a wire mesh filter in theengine oil filler cap.

The components of this system require noattention other than to check that the hosesare clear and undamaged and to renew the oil

filler cap at regular intervals (see Chapter 1).Component renewal is self-explanatory, but

it may be necessary to detach surroundingcomponents for improved access. Refer tothe various Chapters of this manual asnecessary if problems are encountered.

6 Evaporative emission controlsystem - checking andcomponent renewal

2Checking1 Poor idle, stalling and poor driveability canbe caused by an inoperative canister purgevalve, faulty thermostatic vacuum valve adamaged canister, split or cracked hoses, orhoses connected to the wrong fittings. Checkthe fuel filler cap for a damaged or deformedgasket.2 Fuel loss or fuel odour can be caused byliquid fuel leaking from fuel lines, a cracked ordamaged canister, an inoperative canisterpurge valve, and disconnected, misrouted,kinked or damaged vapour or control hoses.3 Inspect each hose attached to the canisterfor kinks, leaks and cracks along its entirelength. If their condition is suspect,disconnect each hose in turn and blowthrough it to check for blockages. Repair orrenew as necessary.


4C

6.13 Charcoal canister fitted to carburettor models with catalytic converter

1 Charcoal canister andmounting bracket

2 Rubber retaining strap3 Fuel return pipe connection

4 Purge valve vacuumdiaphragm

5 Vent hose

6.23 Thermostatic vacuum valve connections

1 Vacuum valve 2 Vacuum hoses

4 Inspect the canister. If it is cracked ordamaged, renew it. Look for fuel leaking fromthe bottom of the canister. If fuel is leaking,renew the canister, and check the hoses andhose routing.5 Checking of the thermostatic vacuum valveand purge control valve should be entrustedto a Rover dealer.

Component renewal

Charcoal canister - carburettor models6 Disconnect the battery negative lead.7 Remove the air cleaner assembly asdescribed in Part A of this Chapter.8 Release the fasteners and detach theignition cover from the front of the engine.9 Release the retaining clips, and disconnectthe charcoal canister hoses from the side of thecarburettor and from the breather hose T-piece.10 Disconnect the charcoal canister vacuumsupply pipe from the thermostatic vacuumswitch situated on the thermostat housing.11 Release the clip and disconnect thecanister hose from the fuel return pipe.12 Chock the rear wheels then jack up thefront of the car and support it on axle stands(see “Jacking and vehicle support”).13 Working from underneath the left-handwing, release the rubber retaining strap, andfree the canister from its mounting bracket(see illustration). Disconnect the vacuumpipe from the purge valve diaphragm, thenrelease the canister vent hose from the wingvalance and withdraw the canister fromunderneath the wing.14 Refitting is the reverse sequence toremoval, noting that if a new canister is beinginstalled, it will be necessary to remove thevent hoses from the original canister andinstall them on the new one before fitting thecanister to the car. Ensure that all hoses arecorrectly reconnected, and where necessarysecurely held by their retaining clips.

Charcoal canister - fuel injectionmodels15 Disconnect the battery negative lead.16 Working in the engine compartment,release the retaining clip(s), and disconnectthe canister hoses from the purge valve andfuel hose.

17 Chock the rear wheels then jack up thefront of the car and support it on axle stands(see “Jacking and vehicle support”).18 From underneath the left-hand wheelarch, release the air inlet duct, and position itclear of the charcoal canister.19 Release the canister vent hose from itsretaining clips, then release the rubber retainingstrap and remove the canister and hoseassembly from underneath the wheel arch.20 Refitting is the reverse sequence toremoval, noting that if a new canister is beinginstalled, it will be necessary to remove thevent hoses from the original canister andinstall them on the new one before fitting thecanister to the car. Ensure that all hoses arecorrectly reconnected, and where necessarysecurely held by their retaining clips.

Thermostatic vacuum valve -carburettor models21 When the engine and radiator are cold,either drain the cooling system as describedin Chapter 1, or unscrew the radiator filler capto release any remaining pressure, and haveready a suitable plug that can be usedtemporarily to stop the escape of coolantwhile the switch is removed. If the lattermethod is used, take care not to damage thethreads, and do not use anything which willleave foreign matter inside the coolingsystem.22 Release the fasteners and remove theignition cover from the front of the engine.23 Disconnect the vacuum hoses from thethermostatic vacuum valve, which is screwedinto the front of the thermostat housing (seeillustration).24 Slacken the radiator top hose retainingclip, and slide the clip along the hose.Unscrew the valve from the front of thethermostat housing, and remove it along withits sealing washer. Where necessary, plug thehousing aperture to minimise coolant loss.25 On refitting, apply a smear of suitablesealant to the valve threads, then refit thevalve and sealing washer to the thermostathousing, tightening it to the specified torque.Slide the radiator hose retaining clip back intoposition, and tighten it securely.26 Reconnect the vacuum hoses to thevalve, noting that the hose from the

carburettor must be connected to the union ofthe valve marked “CARB”.27 Refit the ignition cover, and refill or top-upthe cooling system as described in Chapter 1or “Weekly Checks”.

Purge control valve - fuel injectionmodels28 Disconnect the battery negative lead, thendisconnect the wiring connector from thepurge control valve (see illustration).29 Release the retaining clips, anddisconnect the inlet and outlet hoses from thevalve (see illustration).30 Prise out the C-clip which secures theinlet hose adapter to the mounting bracket(see illustration), then withdraw the adapter,noting the O-ring which is fitted between theadapter and purge valve. Discard the O-ring; itmust be renewed as a matter of course.31 Slide the purge valve out of its mountingbracket, and remove the valve from the car.32 Refitting is the reverse sequence toremoval, using a new inlet hose adapter O-ring.

Fuel tank breather two-way valve -fuel injection models33 Remove the fuel tank as described in PartB of this Chapter.34 Release the retaining clip, and disconnectthe two-way breather valve vent hose fromthe fuel tank. Unclip the valve and hoseassembly from the tank seam, and remove it.35 Release the retaining clips, disconnect thehose from the valve, then undo the tworetaining nuts, and separate the valve from themounting bracket.36 Refitting is the reverse sequence toremoval, tightening the valve retaining nuts tothe specified torque, and ensuring that thehoses are securely reconnected.

7 Exhaust emission controlsystem - checking andcomponent renewal 2

Note: The following procedures apply tothose models without a catalytic converter.

Checking


6.28 Disconnecting the purge valve wiringconnector

6.29 Release the retaining clip, anddisconnect the outlet hose from the purge

valve

6.30 Prise off the C-clip (arrowed), andremove the inlet hose adapter from the

purge valve

1 Checking of the system as a whole entails aclose visual inspection of all hoses, pipes andconnections for condition and security.Ensure also that the air pump drivebelt is insatisfactory condition and correctly tensionedas described in Chapter 1.

Air pump and air manifold2 Check the condition of the air pump bearingswith the drivebelt removed by moving the pulleyfrom side to side. Any appreciable movementindicates wear and will usually be accompaniedby excessive noise from the unit when inoperation. Apart from this, any known orsuspected faults on either of these componentsshould be attended to by a Rover dealer.

Check valve3 Remove the valve as described later in thisSection and test it by gently blowing into eachend in turn. Air should pass through the valvefrom the air supply end only. If air will pass inboth directions the valve is faulty and must berenewed. Do not use high pressure air or airfrom a tyre pump for this check or the valvewill be damaged.

Vacuum operated diverter valve4 To test the operation of the valve, slackenthe hose clip and detach the diverter valve-to-check valve hose at the check valve end.5 Start the engine and allow it to idle. Airpressure should be felt at the end of thedisconnected hose.6 Operate the choke control, and air pressureat the disconnected hose should be cut offcompletely. If air can still be felt at the end ofthe hose, the diverter valve is faulty andshould be renewed.

Cable operated diverter valve7 The procedure for testing the cableoperated diverter valve is the same as for thevacuum type described previously. If the valvedoes not completely restrict the flow of air

when the choke control is operated, makesure that the cable is correctly adjusted asdescribed later in this Section and then carryout the test again. If the airflow is still notcompletely restricted, renew the valve.

Gulp valve8 This component can only be testedsatisfactorily using vacuum gauges. If thevalve is suspect it is recommended that thetesting is carried out by a Rover dealer.

Component renewal

Air pump9 Remove the air pump drivebelt asdescribed in Chapter 1.10 Slacken the clips and detach the outlethoses from the pump adapter.11 Detach the HT lead and undo and removeNo 1 cylinder spark plug.12 Slacken the bolt securing the pumpadjusting arm to the alternator pivot bolt.13 Undo and remove the bolt securing theadjusting arm to the air pump.14 Undo and remove the air pump pivot nutand bolt and lift off the pump.15 Refitting is the reverse sequence toremoval. Ensure that the drivebelt is correctlytensioned as described in Chapter 1.

Air manifold16 Release the three retaining lugs andremove the engine ignition shield, if fitted.17 Detach the HT lead from No 1 cylinderspark plug.18 Undo and remove the four air manifoldunions from the cylinder head (seeillustration).19 Slacken the clip securing the check valvehose and lift away the air manifold completewith check valve.20 Hold the air manifold union with a spannerand unscrew the check valve.

21 Refitting is the reverse sequence toremoval.

Check valve22 Slacken the retaining clip and detach thehose from the check valve.23 Hold the air manifold union to prevent ittwisting and unscrew the check valve.24 Refitting the check valve is the reversesequence to removal.

Vacuum operated diverter valve25 Slacken all the hose clips and detach thethree air hoses and the small vacuum hosefrom the valve body.26 Undo and remove the two retaining nutsand bolts and lift the valve off its mountingbracket.27 Refitting is the reverse sequence toremoval.

Cable operated diverter valve28 Slacken the cable retaining screw andslide the cable and retainer out of the valveoperating lever.29 Slacken the hose clips and detach thethree hoses from the valve body, then lift thevalve off the engine.30 Refitting the valve is the reverse sequence


4C

7.18 Air manifold assembly fitted to early models withoutcatalytic converter

A Check valve hose clipB Air manifold unions

C Check valve and unionnut

7.32 Correct position of jet assembly when testing diverter valveoperation

C = 0.25 to 0.38 mm

8.4 Disconnecting the exhaust systemLambda sensor wiring connector

to removal. With the valve installed adjust theoperating cable as follows.31 Observe the movement of the jet housingbeneath the carburettor while an assistantslowly operates the choke control.32 When the jet housing has moved downaway from the adjusting nut by 0.25 to 0.38mm, lock the choke control to hold it in thisposition (see illustration).33 The clearance between the diverter valveoperating lever and the valve stem shouldnow be 0.04 to 0.08 mm. Adjust the positionof the cable retainer to obtain this dimension.

Gulp valve34 To remove the gulp valve slacken all thehose clips, and detach the air hoses and thevacuum hose from the valve body. 35 Undo and remove the two retaining nutsand bolts and lift the valve off its mounting

bracket. 36 Refitting is the reverse sequence toremoval.

8 Exhaust emission controlsystem - checking andcomponent renewal 2

Note: The following procedures apply tothose models with a catalytic converter.

Checking1 Checking of the system as a whole entails aclose visual inspection of all hoses, pipes andconnections for condition and security. Highexhaust gas CO content on carburettormodels may be due to other fuel or ignitionsystem faults such as dirty or choked aircleaner element, worn or incorrectly adjusted

carburettor, worn or badly adjusted sparkplugs or incorrect ignition timing. Apart fromthese checks, and checks of the generalengine condition, any known or suspectedfaults in the exhaust emission control systemshould be attended to by a Rover dealer.

Component renewal

Catalytic converter2 Removal and refitting procedures for thecatalytic converter are contained in Section 3;general information and precautions arecontained in Section 9.

Lambda sensor - fuel injection modelsNote: The Lambda sensor is delicate, and willnot work if it is dropped or knocked, if itspower supply is disrupted, or if any cleaningmaterials are used on it.3 Remove the inlet manifold as described In


5A

Chapter 5 Part A:Starting and charging systems

System type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12-volt, negative earth

BatteryType . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Low maintenance or “maintenance-free” sealed for lifeCapacity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 to 50 amp hour at 20 hour rateCharge condition:

Poor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12.5 voltsNormal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12.6 voltsGood . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12.7 volts

DynamoType . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Lucas C40/1Maximum output . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 amps at 2250 rpmCut-in speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1450 rpm at 13.5 voltsMinimum brush length . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12.7 mmBrush spring tension . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 510 g

Control boxType . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Lucas RB106/2Regulator:

Open circuit setting at 3000 rpm (dynamo speed) at 20ºC (68ºF) . . . 16.0 to 16.6 volts, decreasing by 0.1 volt for every increase of 10ºC(18ºF) above 20ºC (68ºF)

Cut-out:Cut-in voltage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12.7 to 13.3 voltsDrop-off voltage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.5 to 11 voltsReverse current . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.0 amps (maximum)

Alternator - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10Alternator brushes - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11Alternator charging system - testing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9Battery - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4Battery - testing and charging . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3Battery, bulbs and fuses . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See “Weekly Checks”Control box - adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8Control box cleaning and inspection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1Drive pinion assembly (inertia type starter) - removal and refitting . . 15Dynamo check and lubrication . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1

Dynamo - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6Dynamo brushes - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7Dynamo charging system - testing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5Electrical fault finding - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2Fan belt check and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1General information and precautions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1Starter motor - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13Starter motor - testing and overhaul . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14Starter solenoid - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16Starting system - testing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12

5A•1

Specifications

Contents







54321

AlternatorType:

Pre-1982 models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Lucas 11AC or 16ACR1982 to 1985 models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Lucas A1151986 models onward . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Lucas A127/45 or A127/55

Maximum output:11AC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43 amps16ACR . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 ampsA115 and A127/45 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 ampsA127/55 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55 amps

Minimum brush length:11AC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.9 mm16ACR . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.5 mmA115 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.0 mmA127/45 and A127/55 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.0 mm

Starter motorType:

Pre-1986 models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Lucas M35G or M35J (inertia type)1986 models onward . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Lucas M79 (pre-engaged type)

Minimum brush length:M35G and M35J . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.0 mmM79 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.5 mm

Brush spring tension:M35G . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 425 to 710 gM35J . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 794 gM79 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . N/A


General informationThe engine electrical system consists

mainly of the charging and starting systems.Because of their engine-related functions,these components are covered separatelyfrom the body electrical devices such as thelights, instruments, etc (which are covered inChapter 12). Information on the ignitionsystem is covered in Part B of this Chapter.

The electrical system is of the 12-voltnegative earth type.

The battery is of the low maintenance or“maintenance-free” (sealed for life) type and ischarged by the dynamo or alternator, which isdriven by the fan belt.

The charging system on early modelsconsists of a dynamo and control boxincorporating a voltage regulator and cut-out.The voltage regulator controls the output fromthe dynamo depending on the state of thebattery and the demands of the electricalequipment, and ensures that the battery is notover-charged. The cut-out is really anautomatic switch and connects the dynamo tothe battery when the dynamo is turning fastenough to produce a charge. Similarly itdisconnects the battery from the dynamowhen the engine is idling or stationary so thatthe battery does not discharge through thedynamo.

Later models are equipped with analternator in place of the dynamo and controlbox. The Lucas 11AC alternator and separate4TR control unit was used initially, but has

been superseded by the 16ACR, A115 andA127 alternators with integral control units.

The alternators are all similar inconstruction, comprising basically analuminium casing, housing a three-phase starconnected stator. A rotor carrying the fieldwindings rotates within the stator and isdriven by the fan belt. The alternator output iscontrolled by a voltage regulator located inthe separate control unit on the 11ACalternator and contained within the endhousing on the other machines.

As its name implies, the alternatorgenerates alternating current (ac) as opposedto direct current (dc) generated by thedynamo. The alternating current is rectified bydiodes, located in the alternator end housing,into direct current, which is the currentrequired for battery charging.

On early models an inertia type startermotor is fitted energised by a separatesolenoid switch mounted on the front innerwing panel. When the ignition switch is turned,current flows from the battery to the startermotor solenoid, which causes it to becomeenergised. Its internal plunger moves inwardsand closes an internal switch, so allowing fullstarting current to flow from the battery to thestarter motor. This causes a powerfulmagnetic field to be induced into the field coilswhich causes the armature to rotate.

Mounted on helical splines is the drivepinion which, because of the sudden rotationof the armature, is thrown forwards along thearmature shaft and so into engagement withthe ring gear. The engine crankshaft will thenbe rotated until the engine starts to operate onits own and, at this point, the drive pinion isthrown out of mesh with the ring gear.

A pre-engaged type starter motor is fittedto all models from 1986 onward. On starting,the integral solenoid moves the drive pinioninto engagement with the flywheel ring gearbefore the starter motor is energised. Oncethe engine has started, a one-way clutchprevents the motor armature being driven bythe engine until the pinion disengages fromthe flywheel.

PrecautionsFurther details of the various systems are

given in the relevant Sections of this Chapter.While some repair procedures are given, theusual course of action is to renew thecomponent concerned. The owner whoseinterest extends beyond mere componentrenewal should obtain a copy of the“Automobile Electrical & Electronic SystemsManual”, available from the publishers of thismanual.

It is necessary to take extra care whenworking on the electrical system to avoiddamage to semi-conductor devices (diodesand transistors), and to avoid the risk ofpersonal injury. In addition to the precautionsgiven in “Safety first!” at the beginning of thismanual, observe the following when workingon the system:

Always remove rings, watches, etc beforeworking on the electrical system. Even withthe battery disconnected, capacitivedischarge could occur if a component’s liveterminal is earthed through a metal object.This could cause a shock or nasty burn.

Do not reverse the battery connections.Components such as the alternator, electroniccontrol units, or any other components havingsemi-conductor circuitry could be irreparablydamaged.

5A•2 Starting and charging systems

If the engine is being started using jumpleads and a slave battery, connect thebatteries positive-to-positive and negative-to-negative (see “Jump starting”). This alsoapplies when connecting a battery charger.

Never disconnect the battery terminals, thealternator, any electrical wiring or any testinstruments when the engine is running.

Do not allow the engine to turn the alternatorwhen the alternator is not connected.

Never “test” for alternator output by“flashing” the output lead to earth.

Never use an ohmmeter of the typeincorporating a hand-cranked generator forcircuit or continuity testing.

Always ensure that the battery negativelead is disconnected when working on theelectrical system.

Before using electric-arc weldingequipment on the car, disconnect the battery,alternator and components such as the fuelinjection/ignition electronic control unit toprotect them from the risk of damage.

The radio/cassette units fitted as standard oroptional equipment to later models may beequipped with a built-in security code to deterthieves. If the power source to the unit is cut,the anti-theft system will activate. Even if thepower source is immediately reconnected, theradio/cassette unit will not function until thecorrect security code has been entered.Therefore, if you do not know the correctsecurity code for the radio/cassette unit do notdisconnect the negative terminal of the batteryor remove the radio/cassette unit from the car.Refer to the Owner’s Manual, or your Roverdealer for further information on security codes.

2 Electrical fault finding -general information

Refer to Chapter 12.

3 Battery - testing and charging 1Standard and low maintenancebattery - testing1 If the vehicle covers a small annual mileage,it is worthwhile checking the specific gravityof the electrolyte every three months todetermine the state of charge of the battery.Use a hydrometer to make the check andcompare the results with the following table.

Ambient temperature 25°C (77°F):above below

Fully-charged 1.210 to 1.230 1.270 to 1.29070% charged 1.170 to 1.190 1.230 to 1.250Fully-discharged 1.050 to 1.070 1.110 to 1.130Note that the specific gravity readings assumean electrolyte temperature of 15°C (60°F); forevery 10°C (18°F) below 15°C (60°F) subtract0.007. For every 10°C (18°F) above 15°C(60°F) add 0.007.

2 If the battery condition is suspect, firstcheck the specific gravity of electrolyte ineach cell. A variation of 0.040 or morebetween any cells indicates loss of electrolyteor deterioration of the internal plates.3 If the specific gravity variation is 0.040 ormore, the battery should be renewed. If thecell variation is satisfactory but the battery isdischarged, it should be charged asdescribed later in this Section.

Maintenance-free battery -testing4 In cases where a “sealed for life”maintenance-free battery is fitted, topping-upand testing of the electrolyte in each cell is notpossible. The condition of the battery cantherefore only be tested using a batterycondition indicator or a voltmeter.5 If testing the battery using a voltmeter,connect the voltmeter across the battery andcompare the result with those given in theSpecifications under “charge condition”. Thetest is only accurate if the battery has notbeen subjected to any kind of charge for theprevious six hours. If this is not the case,switch on the headlights for 30 seconds, thenwait four to five minutes before testing thebattery after switching off the headlights. Allother electrical circuits must be switched off,so check that the doors and tailgate are fullyshut when making the test.6 If the voltage reading is less than 12.2 volts,then the battery is discharged, whilst areading of 12.2 to 12.4 volts indicates apartially discharged condition.7 If the battery is to be charged, remove itfrom the vehicle (Section 4) and charge it asdescribed later in this Section.

Standard and low maintenancebattery - chargingNote: The following is intended as a guideonly. Always refer to the manufacturer’srecommendations (often printed on a labelattached to the battery) before charging abattery.8 Charge the battery at a rate of 3.5 to 4amps and continue to charge the battery atthis rate until no further rise in specific gravityis noted over a four hour period.9 Alternatively, a trickle charger charging at therate of 1.5 amps can safely be used overnight.10 Specially rapid “boost” charges which areclaimed to restore the power of the battery in1 to 2 hours are not recommended, as theycan cause serious damage to the batteryplates through overheating.11 While charging the battery, note that thetemperature of the electrolyte should neverexceed 37.8°C (100°F).

Maintenance-free battery -chargingNote: The following is intended as a guideonly. Always refer to the manufacturer’srecommendations (often printed on a labelattached to the battery) before charging abattery.

12 This battery type takes considerablylonger to fully recharge than the standardtype, the time taken being dependent on theextent of discharge, but it can take anythingup to three days.13 A constant voltage type charger isrequired, to be set, when connected, to 13.9to 14.9 volts with a charger current below 25amps. Using this method, the battery shouldbe usable within three hours, giving a voltagereading of 12.5 volts, but this is for a partiallydischarged battery and, as mentioned, fullcharging can take considerably longer.14 If the battery is to be charged from a fullydischarged state (condition reading less than12.2 volts), have it recharged by your Roverdealer or local automotive electrician, as thecharge rate is higher and constant supervisionduring charging is necessary.

4 Battery - removal and refitting 1RemovalNote: Make sure that you have a copy of theradio/cassette unit security code number(where applicable) before disconnecting thebattery.1 The battery is located in a recess in theright-hand side of the luggage compartmentfloor on Saloon models, beneath the rear seaton Estate models, and behind the passengerseat on the Van and Pick-up.2 Remove the cover (where fitted) thendisconnect the negative and then the positiveleads from the battery after first removing theretaining screws or nuts and bolts from theterminal posts (see illustration).3 Remove the battery clamp and carefully liftthe battery out of its compartment. Hold thebattery upright to ensure that none of theelectrolyte is spilled.

Refitting4 Refitting is a direct reversal of thisprocedure. Note: Refit the positive lead beforethe negative lead and smear the terminals withpetroleum jelly. Never use an ordinary grease.

Starting and charging systems 5A•3

5A

4.2 Disconnecting the battery negativelead (Saloon model shown)

5 Dynamo charging system -testing 2

Note: Refer to the warnings given in “Safetyfirst!” and in Section 1 of this Chapter beforestarting work.1 If the ignition warning light fails to go outwith the engine running, or if the battery doesnot appear to be receiving a charge, thedynamo may be at fault and should be testedwhile still in position on the engine as follows.2 First check the fan belt condition and adjustthe tension if necessary (see Chapter 1).3 Check the leads from the dynamo to thecontrol box (D and F), ensuring that they arefirmly attached and that one has not comeloose from its terminal.4 To test the dynamo, first ensure that allelectrical equipment is switched off and thenpull the leads off the two dynamo terminals.Now join the two dynamo terminals togetherusing a short length of non-insulated wire.5 Attach to the centre of this short length ofwire the positive clip of a 0 to 20 voltvoltmeter. Connect the negative clip of thevoltmeter to a good earth on the dynamoyoke.6 Start the engine and allow it to run at a fastidle. A reading of approximately 15 voltsshould now be indicated on the voltmeter. Ifno reading is recorded, it is quite likely thatthe dynamo brushes or brush connections areat fault. If a very low reading is observed thenthe field windings or armature may besuspect.7 Brush renewal is described in Section 7;any other repair should be entrusted to anauto electrician who will be able to determineif repair is feasible, or whether an exchangereconditioned unit should be obtained.8 If the voltmeter readings are satisfactory,switch off the engine and disconnect thevoltmeter. With the temporary link still inposition, reconnect the two leads to thedynamo terminals and then disconnect the Dand F terminals at the control box. Connectthe positive clip of the voltmeter to the D leadand the negative clip to earth. Start the engineand allow it to run at a fast idle. The readingon the voltmeter should be identical to thatrecorded at the dynamo. If no voltage isrecorded there is a break in the wire. If thevoltage is less than previously recorded checkthe terminals for corrosion and the wire forchafing. Test the F lead in a similar fashion. Ifboth readings are the same as recorded at thedynamo, then it will be necessary to test thecontrol box as described in Section 8.9 On completion of the tests remove thetemporary link from the dynamo terminals andreconnect the leads to the dynamo andcontrol box.

6 Dynamo - removal andrefitting 1

Removal1 Disconnect the battery negative lead.2 Slacken the two dynamo upper retainingbolts and the nut on the adjustment arm.Move the dynamo towards the engine and liftthe fan belt off the pulley.3 Disconnect the two leads from the dynamoterminals. If the ignition coil is mounted on thedynamo, slide back the rubber cover anddisconnect the high tension lead from thecentre of the coil, followed by the two lowtension leads (see illustration).4 Undo and remove the lower bolt securingthe adjustment arm to the dynamo andremove the two upper retaining bolts, nutsand washers. The dynamo can now be liftedoff the engine.

Refitting5 Refitting the dynamo is the reverse sequenceto removal, ensuring that the fan belt is correctlytensioned as described in Chapter 1 before fullytightening the retaining bolts.6 If a new or exchange dynamo is beingfitted, ensure that the unit is correctlypolarised as described below beforeinstalling.7 In order for the dynamo to function it mustbe correctly polarised to suit the electricalinstallation to which it is being fitted. Topolarise the dynamo to suit a negative earthsystem, connect a suitable length of wire fromthe battery earth terminal to the dynamo yokeor end bracket. Now connect another lengthof wire to the battery positive terminal andflick the other end of the wire several times onthe dynamo F (small) terminal. This will inducea magnetism of the correct polarity into thedynamo field windings.8 The correctly polarised dynamo can now befitted to the car.

7 Dynamo brushes - renewal 31 Remove the dynamo from the car asdescribed in Section 6.2 If the ignition coil is mounted on thedynamo, undo and remove the clampretaining bolts and lift off the coil.3 Undo and remove the two long screws fromthe rear of the dynamo and lift off thecommutator end bracket.4 Now lift out the armature complete withdrive end bracket and pulley from the dynamoyoke.5 Undo and remove the brush lead retainingscrews and lift the brushes out of theirholders. If the brushes have worn to less thanthe minimum specified length, they must berenewed.

6 Check that the brushes slide freely andeasily in their holders. If either of the brusheshas a tendency to stick, clean the brusheswith methylated spirit and a clean rag. If stillstiff, lightly polish the sides of the brush with avery fine file until the brush moves quite freelyand easily in its holder.7 If the brushes are in a satisfactory conditionand are to be re-used, ensure that they arerefitted in the same holders from which theywere removed. Check the tension of the brushsprings using a small spring balance if possible.If the tension is insufficient, renew the springs.8 Check the condition of the commutator. Ifthe surface is dirty or blackened, clean it withmethylated spirit and a clean rag. If thecommutator is in good condition, the surfacewill be smooth and quite free from pits orburnt areas, and the insulated segmentsclearly defined. If the commutator is severelyworn, seek the advice of an auto electrician asto whether reconditioning is possible.Alternatively obtain a reconditioned dynamo.9 If, after the commutator has been cleaned,pits and burnt spots are still present, thenwrap a strip of glass paper round thecommutator and rotate the armature.10 Reassemble the dynamo using thereverse of the dismantling procedure. Whenrefitting the commutator end bracket easeback the springs and lift the brushes half wayout of their holders. Now rest the springagainst the side of the brush to hold it in thisposition. This will prevent the brushes fromfouling the commutator as the end bracket isfitted. With the end bracket in place, push thebrushes down into contact with thecommutator using a screwdriver insertedthrough the openings in the end bracket. Asthis is done the springs will jump into theircorrect position over the brushes.

8 Control box - adjustment 2Note: Refer to the warnings given in “Safetyfirst!” and in Section 1 of this Chapter beforestarting work.1 If the battery and dynamo are in soundcondition but the operation of the chargingcircuit is still suspect, then the voltage


6.3 Disconnecting the coil leads

regulator and cut-out in the control boxshould be checked, and if necessary adjustedas follows.

Voltage regulator adjustment2 Check the regulator settings by removingthe leads A and A1 from the control box andjoining them together using a short length ofwire (see illustration). Connect the positiveclip of a 0 to 20 volt voltmeter to the Dterminal of the control box, and the negativeclip to a good earth.

3 Start the engine and slowly increase itsspeed until the voltmeter needle flicks andthen steadies. This should occur at about2000 rpm. 4 If the voltage at which the needle steadiesis outside the limits listed in the table, switchoff the engine, remove the control box coverand turn the regulator adjusting screw afraction of a turn at a time, clockwise toincrease the setting and anti-clockwise todecrease it (see illustration). Recheck thevoltage reading after each adjustment.

Air temperature Open circuit voltage10ºC (50ºF) 16.1 to 16.720ºC (68ºF) 16.0 to 16.630ºC (86ºF) 15.9 to 16.540ºC (104ºF) 15.8 to 16.4

It is essential that the adjustments becompleted within 30 seconds of starting theengine otherwise the heat from the shunt coilwill affect the readings.

Cut-out adjustment5 With the control box A and A1 leads joinedtogether, and the voltmeter connected asdescribed in paragraph 2, the cut-in voltagecan be checked, and if necessary adjusted, asfollows.6 Switch on the headlights to provide anelectrical load, start the engine and slowlyincrease its speed. The voltage reading willrise steadily, drop back and then rise again.The point reached just before the drop backshould be between 12.7 and 13.3 volts.7 If the reading obtained is outside theselimits, switch off the engine and turn the cut-out adjusting screw a fraction of a turn at atime clockwise to raise the voltage and anti-clockwise to lower it (see illustration).Recheck the voltage reading after eachadjustment. As with the voltage regulator, it isessential that the adjustments be completedwithin 30 seconds of starting the engine,otherwise the heat from the shunt coil willaffect the readings.8 After completing the adjustments removethe voltmeter, disconnect the control boxleads and refit the cover.


5A

8.2 Control box components

1 Voltage adjusting screw2 Cut-out adjusting screw3 Fixed contact blade4 Stop arm

5 Armature tongue and movingcontact

6 Regulator fixed contact screw7 Regulator moving contact8 Regulator series windings

8.4 Mechanical setting of regulator

1 Core face and shim2 0.533 mm3 Armature4 Fixed contact adjustment

screw

5 Armature securing screws6 Armature tension spring7 Locknut8 Voltage adjusting screw

8.7 Mechanical setting of cut-out

1 0.25 to 0.51 mm2 0.76 mm3 Follow through - 0.25 to 0.51 mm4 Armature tongue and moving contact5 Stop arm

6 Output adjusting screw7 Armature securing screw8 Armature tension spring9 Fixed contact blade

9 Alternator charging system -testing 2

Note: Refer to the warnings given in “Safetyfirst!” and in Section 1 of this Chapter beforestarting work.1 If the ignition warning light fails to illuminatewhen the ignition is switched on, first checkthe alternator wiring connections for security.If satisfactory, check that the warning lightbulb has not blown, and that the bulbholder issecure in its location in the instrument panel.If the light still fails to illuminate, check thecontinuity of the warning light feed wire fromthe alternator to the bulbholder. If all issatisfactory, the alternator is at fault andshould be renewed or taken to an auto-electrician for testing and repair.2 If the ignition warning light illuminates whenthe engine is running, stop the engine andcheck that the fan belt is correctly tensioned(see Chapter 1) and that the alternatorconnections are secure. If all is so farsatisfactory, check the alternator brushes asdescribed in Section 11. If the fault persists,the alternator should be renewed, or taken toan auto-electrician for testing and repair.3 If the alternator output is suspect eventhough the warning light functions correctly,the regulated voltage may be checked asfollows.4 Connect a voltmeter across the batteryterminals and start the engine.5 Increase the engine speed until thevoltmeter reading remains steady; the readingshould be approximately 12 to 13 volts, andno more than 14 volts.6 Switch on as many electrical accessories(eg, the headlights, heated rear window andheater blower) as possible, and check that thealternator maintains the regulated voltage ataround 13 to 14 volts.7 If the regulated voltage is not as stated, thefault may be due to worn brushes, weak brushsprings, a faulty voltage regulator, a faultydiode, a severed phase winding or worn ordamaged slip rings. The brushes may bechecked as described in Section 11, but if thefault persists, the alternator should berenewed or taken to an auto-electrician fortesting and repair.

10 Alternator - removal andrefitting 1

RemovalNote: If working on a pre-1990 car fitted withexhaust emission control equipment, it will benecessary to remove the air pump anddrivebelt as described in Chapter 4C toprovide access to the alternator.1 On models fitted with an ignition shield over

the front of the engine release the threeretaining lugs and lift off the shield.2 Release the spring clip and disconnect thewiring connector from the rear of thealternator.3 Slacken the alternator adjusting arm nutand the bolt securing the adjusting arm to thealternator.4 Slacken the two upper mounting nuts andbolts, move the alternator toward the engineand slip the fan belt off the pulley.5 Remove the two upper mounting nuts andbolts and the bolt securing the adjusting armto the alternator. Lift the alternator off theengine.

Refitting6 Refitting is the reverse sequence toremoval. Ensure that the fan belt is correctlytensioned as described in Chapter 1 beforefinally tightening the mounting and adjustmentarm bolts.

11 Alternator brushes - renewal 311AC alternator1 Remove the alternator from the car asdescribed in Section 10.2 To remove the brushes, undo and removethe nut and spring washer, the large Lucarterminal and the plastic strip from the outputterminal.3 Undo and remove the two securing screwsand withdraw the brush box. Note that thereare two small washers between the brush boxand end bracket.4 Close up the retaining tongue at the root ofeach terminal blade and withdraw the brush,spring and terminal assemblies from the brushbox.5 With the brushes removed, measure theirlength, and renew them if worn to less thanthe minimum specified length.6 Check that the brushes slide smoothly intheir holders. Any sticking tendency may firstbe rectified by wiping with methylated spiritand a clean cloth, or if this fails, by carefullypolishing with a very fine file where anybinding marks may appear.7 Refitting the brushes is the reversesequence to removal. When refitting theterminal blades to the brush box bend theretaining tongue, at the root of each blade, outslightly to retain the blade in position.

16ACR alternator8 Remove the alternator from the car asdescribed in Section 10.9 Undo and remove the two retaining screwsand lift off the moulded end cover.10 Detach the cable from the terminal bladeon the outer of the three rectifier plates. Alsodetach the cable from the blade between themiddle and inner of the three rectifier plates.

11 Undo and remove the four screwssecuring the brush assemblies to the brushholder.12 Undo and remove the screw securing thesurge protection diode cable to the brushholder.13 Finally undo and remove the three boltsand lift off the brush holder and regulatorassembly. Note that there is a small leafspring fitted at the side of the inner brush.14 Check the condition of the brushes asdescribed in paragraphs 5 and 6.15 Refitting the brushes is the reversesequence to removal.

A115 alternator 16 Remove the alternator as described inSection 10. 17 Disconnect and remove the interferencesuppression capacitor from the end cover. 18 Undo the screws or nuts which secure theend cover, and remove the cover. 19 Unscrew the surge protection diodesecuring screw. Either move the diodecarefully out of the way, or disconnect it fromthe rectifier board and remove it. 20 Make a careful note of the regulator leadcolours and fitting arrangements, thendisconnect the regulator leads from therectifier board and remove it.21 Remove the regulator screw and withdrawthe regulator. Note that the regulator securingscrew also holds one of the brush mountingplates in position.22 Remove the two securing screws, andwithdraw the brushbox. Extract the freebrush, then undo the securing screw torelease the other brush. Remove the sealingpad.23 Renew the brushes if they are at, orapproaching, the minimum specified length.Check the brush spring pressure with thebrush ends flush with the end of thebrushbox; renew the springs if they havebecome weak.24 Refitting the brushes is the reversesequence to removal.

A127 alternator25 Remove the alternator as described inSection 10.26 Undo the three small screws securing theregulator and brushbox assembly to the rearof the alternator.27 Tip the assembly upwards at the edge,and withdraw it from its location. Disconnectthe rectifier wiring connection, and removethe regulator and brushbox.28 Measure the brush length, and renew theregulator and brushbox assembly if thebrushes are worn below the figure given in theSpecifications.29 Refitting the brushes is the reversesequence to removal.


12 Starting system - testing 2Note: Refer to the precautions given in“Safety first!” and in Section 1 of this Chapterbefore starting work.1 If the starter motor fails to operate when theignition key is turned to the appropriateposition, the following possible causes maybe to blame.a) The battery is faulty.b) The electrical connections between the

switch, solenoid, battery and startermotor are somewhere failing to pass thenecessary current from the batterythrough the starter to earth.

c) The solenoid is faulty.d) The starter motor drive pinion may be

jammed in the flywheel ring gear teeth(inertia type starters).

e) The starter motor is mechanically orelectrically defective.

2 To check the battery, switch on theheadlights. If they dim after a few seconds, thisindicates that the battery is discharged -recharge (see Section 3) or renew the battery. Ifthe headlights glow brightly, operate theignition switch and observe the lights. If theydim, then this indicates that current is reachingthe starter motor, therefore the fault must lie inthe starter motor. If an inertia type starter isfitted, check it is not jammed by placing the carin gear (manual transmission only) and rockingit to and fro. Alternatively, turn the armaturewith a small spanner on the square endprotruding from the commutator end bracket. Ifthe lights continue to glow brightly (and noclicking sound can be heard from the startermotor solenoid), this indicates that there is afault in the circuit or solenoid - see followingparagraphs. If the starter motor turns slowlywhen operated, but the battery is in goodcondition, then this indicates that either thestarter motor is faulty, or there is considerableresistance somewhere in the circuit.3 If a fault in the circuit is suspected,disconnect the battery leads (including theearth connection to the body), thestarter/solenoid wiring and the engine/transmission earth strap. Thoroughly cleanthe connections, and reconnect the leads andwiring, then use a voltmeter or test lamp tocheck that full battery voltage is available atthe battery positive lead connection to thesolenoid, and that the earth is sound.4 If the battery and all connections are ingood condition, check the circuit bydisconnecting the wire from the solenoidblade terminal. Connect a voltmeter or testlamp between the wire end and a good earth(such as the battery negative terminal), andcheck that the wire is live when the ignitionswitch is turned to the “start” position. If it is,then the circuit is sound - if not the circuitwiring can be checked as described inChapter 12.

5 The solenoid contacts can be checked byconnecting a voltmeter or test lamp betweenthe battery positive feed connection on thestarter side of the solenoid, and earth. Whenthe ignition switch is turned to the “start”position, there should be a reading or lightedbulb, as applicable. If there is no reading orlighted bulb, the solenoid is faulty and shouldbe renewed.6 If the circuit and solenoid are provedsound, the fault must lie in the starter motor.In this event, it may be possible to have thestarter motor overhauled by a specialist, butcheck on the cost of spares beforeproceeding, as it may prove more economicalto obtain a new or exchange motor.

13 Starter motor - removal andrefitting 1

Removal1 Disconnect the battery negative lead.2 If an ignition shield is fitted to the front ofthe engine, release the three retaining lugsand lift off the shield.3 For improved access if necessary, releasethe horn and horn bracket, and move them toone side.

4 On inertia type starters, undo and removethe nut and spring washer and then detachthe starter motor cable from the terminal stud(see illustration). On pre-engaged typestarters, undo the nut, and disconnect theleads at the upper terminal on the solenoid.Disconnect the leads at the two solenoidspade terminals, after identifying theirpositions (see illustration).5 If the ignition coil is mounted on a bracketsecured to the cylinder head, undo andremove the nut securing the bracket to thehead and place the coil to one side.6 Undo and remove the two bolts securingthe starter motor to the flywheel housing, thenlift the motor upwards and out of the enginecompartment.



5A

13.4a Unscrew the nut securing the startermotor cable

13.4b Pre-engaged starter motor attachments

4 Solenoid upper terminal leads5 Solenoid spade terminal leads

6 Retaining bolts7 Starter motor

Smear petroleum jellyaround the battery terminalsto prevent corrosion -corroded connections are

amongst the most frequent causes ofelectrical system faults.

14 Starter motor - testing andoverhaul 5

If the starter motor is thought to be suspect,it should be removed from the vehicle andtaken to an auto-electrician for testing. Mostauto-electricians will be able to supply and fitbrushes at a reasonable cost. However, checkon the cost of repairs before proceeding as itmay prove more economical to obtain a newor exchange motor.

Renewal of the solenoid and, on the inertiatype starter motor the drive pinion assembly,is described in the following Sections.

15 Drive pinion assembly(inertia type starter) -removal and refitting

3Removal1 With the starter motor removed from thecar (Section 13) use a starter motor pinioncompressor tool (available from automobileaccessory stores), to compress themainspring until sufficient clearance exists toenable the circlip on the end of the shaft to beremoved. Remove the pinion compressor andthen slide off the locating washer andmainspring.2 Slide the remaining parts off the armatureshaft with a rotary action.3 Examine the teeth of the drive pinion thatengage with the flywheel ring gear. If they are

badly worn on their leading edge, renew thepinion assembly. Bear in mind that if the drivepinion teeth are worn, the teeth on theflywheel ring gear are likely to be in a similarcondition.4 Inspect the remainder of the drive pinioncomponents and renew the assembly if anyare worn.

Refitting5 Refitting the drive pinion is the reversesequence to removal. Note: It is mostimportant that the drive pinion componentsare completely free from oil, grease and dirtbefore reassembly. Under no circumstancesshould any of the parts be lubricated, as thiswill attract dust from the clutch which couldcause the drive pinion to stick.

16 Starter solenoid - removaland refitting 1

Removal

Remotely mounted solenoid (inertiatype starter)1 Disconnect the battery negative lead.2 Carefully ease back the rubber covers togain access to the terminals (see illustration).3 Make a note of the Lucar terminalconnectors and detach these terminals.4 Undo and remove the heavy duty cableterminal connection nuts and spring washers.Detach the two terminal connectors.

5 Undo and remove the two securing screwsand lift away the solenoid.

Integral solenoid (pre-engaged typestarter)6 Remove the starter motor as described inSection 13.7 Undo the nut and disconnect the lead at thelower terminal on the solenoid.8 Undo the two bolts and remove thesolenoid yoke (see illustration).9 Withdraw the plunger spring, unhook theplunger from the starter operating lever andremove the plunger.

Refitting10 In all cases, refitting is the reversesequence to removal.


16.2 Electrical connections at the startersolenoid

16.8 Pre-engaged starter solenoid removal

3 Retaining bolts 4 Solenoid yoke 5 Plunger spring 6 Plunger

5B

Chapter 5 Part B:Ignition system

Carburettor models

System typeAll except 1990 on, 1275 cc models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Conventional contact breaker ignition1990 on, 1275 cc models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Lucas electronic ignition

Distributor - contact breaker ignitionType:

All models except Cooper S Mk III:Early type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Lucas 25D4Later type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Lucas 45D4, 59D4 or Ducellier

Cooper S Mk III . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Lucas 23D4Direction of rotor arm rotation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Anti-clockwiseContact breaker points gap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.35 to 0.40 mmDwell angle:

Lucas 23D4 and 25D4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60º ± 3ºLucas 45D4:

Non-sliding contacts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51º ± 5ºSliding contacts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57º ± 5º

Lucas 59D4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54º ± 5ºDucellier . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57º ± 2º30’

Firing order . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-3-4-2 (No 1 cylinder next to radiator)

Ballasted ignition system (carburettor models) - identification . . . . . 2Condenser - testing, removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7Contact breaker points - adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5Contact breaker points - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6Crankshaft sensor (fuel injection models) - removal and refitting . . . 11Distributor - dismantling, inspection and reassembly . . . . . . . . . . . . 9Distributor lubrication . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1Distributor - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Ignition coil - removal, testing and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10Ignition system check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1Ignition system (carburettor models) - testing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3Ignition system (fuel injection models) - testing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4Ignition timing - checking and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13Reluctor ring (fuel injection models) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . 12Spark plug renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1Transmission-controlled ignition advance system (carburettor models)

- checking and component renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14

5B•1

Specifications

Contents







54321

Distributor - electronic ignitionType . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Lucas 65DM4 - ElectronicIgnition amplifier module . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Lucas 9EMSuppression capacitor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 mfDirection of rotor arm rotation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Anti-clockwiseFiring order . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-3-4-2 (No 1 cylinder next to radiator)

Distributor serial numbers (Lucas)(a) Mini 850 Saloon and Estate, 848 cc, 1969-72:

Lucas 25D4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41026Lucas 45D4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41411

(b) Mini 850 Van and Pick-up, 848 cc, 1969-72:Lucas 25D4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41007Lucas 45D4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41410

(c) Mini 1000 Saloon and Estate, 998 cc, 1969-72:Lucas 25D4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40931 or 41030Lucas 45D4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41412

(d) Mini 1000 Van and Pick-up, 998 cc, 1969-72:Lucas 25D4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41007Lucas 45D4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41410

(e) Mini 1000 Automatic, and Mini Clubman Automatic, 998 cc, 1969-74:Lucas 25D4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41134 or 41242Lucas 45D4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41417

(f) Mini Cooper S Mk III, 1275 cc, 1969-72:Lucas 23D4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40819 or 41033

(g) Mini Clubman, 998 cc, 1969-72:Lucas 25D4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41030Lucas 45D4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41412

(h) Mini 1275 GT, 1275 cc, 1969-72:Lucas 25D4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41257Lucas 45D4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41419

(i) Mini 850 Saloon and variants, 848 cc, 1972-74:Lucas 25D4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41026 or 41569*Lucas 45D4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41411 or 41570*

(j) Mini 1000 and Mini Clubman, Saloon and variants, 998 cc, 1972-74:Lucas 25D4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41254 or 41246*Lucas 45D4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41212 or 41418*

(k) Mini 1275 GT, 1275 cc, 1972-76:Lucas 25D4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41257 or 41214Lucas 45D4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41419

(I) Mini 850 Saloon and variants, 848 cc, 1974-76:Lucas 45D4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41570

(m) Mini 1000 and Mini Clubman, Saloon and variants, 998 cc, manualand automatic transmission, 1974-76:

Lucas 45D4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41418(n) Mini Clubman 1100, 1098 cc, 1974-76:

Lucas 25D4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41246Lucas 45D4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41418

(o) Mini 850 Saloon and variants, 848 cc, 1976 on:Lucas 45D4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41417 or 41767

(p) Mini 1000 and Mini Clubman, Saloon and variants, 998 cc, manualand automatic transmission, 1976-78:

Lucas 45D4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41418 or 41793(q) Mini Clubman 1100, 1098 cc, 1976 on:

Lucas 45D4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41418 or 41793(r) Mini 1275 GT, 1275 cc, 1976-77:

Lucas 45D4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41419 or 41768(s) Mini 1000 and Mini Clubman, Saloon and variants, 998 cc, manualand automatic transmission, 1978 on:

Lucas 45D4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41406 or 41765(t) Mini 1275 GT, 1275 cc, 1978 on:

Lucas 45D4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41419 or 41768(u) Mini Saloon and variants, 998 cc, 1982 on:

Lucas 59D4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41882(v) Mini Saloon and variants, 1275 cc, 1990 on (electronic ignition) . . . N/A* Alternative distributor fitted to a limited number of 1974 modelsTiming mark locations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Marks on flywheel, pointer on housing (scale on timing cover, notch on

pulley - later models)

5B•2 Ignition system

Ignition timing Note: the reference letter in the first column refers to the vehicle type as listed above. If a Ducellier distributor is fitted, the timing setting is thesame as the equivalent Lucas distributor.Vehicle type Static Stroboscopic (vacuum pipe disconnected)

(a) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . TDC 3º BTDC at 600 rpm(b) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7º BTDC 10º BTDC at 600 rpm(c) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5º BTDC 8º BTDC at 600 rpm(d) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7º BTDC 10º BTDC at 600 rpm(e) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4º BTDC 6º BTDC at 600 rpm(f) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2º BTDC 4º BTDC at 600 rpm(g) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5º BTDC 8º BTDC at 600 rpm(h) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8º BTDC 10º BTDC at 600 rpm(i) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . TDC 19º BTDC at 1000 rpm

9º BTDC* 14º BTDC at 1000 rpm*(j) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5º BTDC 11º BTDC at 1000 rpm

10º BTDC* 13º BTDC at 1000 rpm*(k) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8º BTDC 13º BTDC at 1000 rpm(I) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6º BTDC 11º BTDC at 1000 rpm(m) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4º BTDC 7º BTDC at 1000 rpm(n) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9º BTDC 12º BTDC at 1000 rpm(o) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . - 7º BTDC at 1000 rpm(p) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . - 7º BTDC at 1000 rpm(q) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . - 12º BTDC at 1000 rpm(r) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . - 13º BTDC at 1000 rpm(s) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . - 8º BTDC at 1000 rpm(t) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . - 13º BTDC at 1000 rpm(u)1983 to 1987 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . - 8º + 0º -2º BTDC at 1500 rpm

1988 (category C) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . - 10º + 0º -2º BTDC at 1500 rpm1989-on low-compression . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . - 8º + 0º -2º BTDC at 1500 rpm1989-on high-compression . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . - 10º + 0º -2º BTDC at 1500 rpm

(v) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . - 5º + 1º BTDC at 1500 rpm*Alternative distributor

Ignition coilType:

848 cc and 1098 cc engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Lucas LA12998 cc engines:

Pre-1982 models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Lucas LA121982 models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . AC Delco 9977230 or Ducellier 520035A1983 models on . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . GCL 144

1275 cc engines:Pre-1990 models except Cooper S Mk III and later 1275 GT . . . . . Lucas LA12Cooper S Mk III . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Lucas HA121275 GT, 1978 on . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Lucas 15C61990 models on . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . GCL 143

Primary resistance at 20ºC:Lucas LA12 and 15C6 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.2 to 3.4 ohmsLucas HA12 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.0 to 3.4 ohmsAC Delco 9977230 or Ducellier 520035A . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.2 to 1.5 ohmsGCL 144 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.3 to 1.5 ohmsGCL 143 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.70 to 0.86 ohms

Ballast resistance:AC Delco 9977230 or Ducellier 520035A . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.3 to 1.5 ohmsGCL 144 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.5 ohms

Spark plugs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1 Specifications

Torque wrench settings Nm lbf ftDistributor clamp . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.8 5

Fuel injection modelsSystem type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Rover/Motronic Modular engine management system (MEMS), fully

electronic, controlled by ECU

Electronic control unitType:

Cooper models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . MNE 10027All other manual transmission models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . MNE 10025All other automatic transmission models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . MNE 10026

Ignition system 5B•3

5B

Crankshaft sensorType . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ADU 7340

DistributorType . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . NJC 10034Direction of rotor arm rotation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Anti-clockwiseFiring order . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-3-4-2 (No 1 cylinder next to radiator)Timing mark locations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Scale on timing cover, notch on pulley

Ignition timingNominal value . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15º BTDC at idle**This value will constantly vary under control of the ECU idle function (by as much as -11º to +10º) - see text for further information.

Ignition coilType . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . AUU 1326 or ADU 8779Primary resistance at 20ºC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.71 to 0.81 ohmsSpark plugs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1 Specifications

Torque wrench settings Nm lbf ftCrankshaft sensor bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 4Distributor clamp . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.8 5



Contact breaker point ignitionsystem - carburettor models

In order that the engine can run correctly, itis necessary for an electrical spark to ignitethe fuel/air mixture in the combustionchamber at exactly the right moment inrelation to engine speed and load. The ignitionsystem is based on feeding low tensionvoltage from the battery to the coil, where it isconverted to high tension voltage. The hightension voltage is powerful enough to jumpthe spark plug gap in the cylinders manytimes a second under high compressionpressures, providing that the system is ingood condition and that all adjustments arecorrect.

The ignition system is divided into twocircuits: the low tension circuit and the hightension circuit.

The low tension (sometimes known as theprimary) circuit consists of the battery, lead tothe starter solenoid, lead to the ignitionswitch, lead from the ignition switch to the lowtension or primary coil windings (coil terminal+), and the lead from the low tension coilwindings (coil terminal -) to the contactbreaker points and condenser in thedistributor.

The high tension circuit consists of the hightension or secondary coil windings, theignition king lead from the centre of the coil tothe centre of the distributor cap, the rotor arm,the spark plug HT leads and the spark plugs.

The system functions in the followingmanner. Low tension voltage is changed in thecoil into high tension voltage by the openingand closing of the contact breaker points inthe low tension circuit. High tension voltage is

then fed, via the carbon brush in the centre ofthe distributor cap, to the rotor arm of thedistributor. The rotor arm revolves inside thedistributor cap, and each time it comes in linewith one of the four metal segments in the cap,which are connected to the spark plug leads,the opening and closing of the contact breakerpoints causes the high tension voltage to buildup and jump the gap from the rotor arm to theappropriate metal segment. The voltage thenpasses, via the spark plug lead, to the sparkplug, where it finally jumps the spark plug gap,before going to earth.

A ballasted ignition system is used oncertain models to improve ignitionperformance, particularly when starting theengine. Ballast is provided by a low resistancelead incorporated in the supply from theignition switch to the ignition coil + terminal.The starter solenoid circuit is wired so thatupon operation of the starter, the ballastresistance is bypassed. This has the effect ofslightly increasing coil primary voltage, whichin turn temporarily increases HT output toimprove starting.

The ignition is advanced and retardedautomatically, to ensure that the spark occursat just the right instant for the particular loadat the prevailing engine speed. The ignitionadvance is controlled both mechanically andby a vacuum operated system on all butCooper S models. Automatic advance ismechanical only on Cooper S models. Themechanical governor mechanism comprisestwo lead weights, which move out from thedistributor shaft, due to centrifugal force, asthe engine speed rises. As they moveoutwards they rotate the cam relative to thedistributor shaft, and so advance the spark.The weights are held in position by two lightsprings, and it is the tension of the springswhich is largely responsible for correct sparkadvancement. The vacuum control consists of

a diaphragm, one side of which is connected,via a small bore tube, to the carburettor, andthe other side to the contact breaker plate.Depression in the inlet manifold andcarburettor, which varies with engine speedand throttle opening, causes the diaphragm tomove, so moving the contact breaker plate,and advancing or retarding the spark.

Certain models are also fitted with atransmission-controlled ignition advancesystem. The system consists of a vacuum lineconnected to the distributor-to-inlet manifoldvacuum hose, which runs to an inhibitorswitch located behind the gearchange remotecontrol housing. A solenoid valve, operated bythe inhibitor switch, is mounted in this vacuumline. When fourth gear is selected, the inhibitorswitch energises the solenoid valve, andincreased vacuum is applied to the advancemechanism of the distributor. When anythingother than fourth gear is selected, the systemis de-energised; vacuum is vented toatmosphere, the vacuum line to the distributoris sealed, and the system reverts to normaloperation.

Electronic ignition system -carburettor models

The Lucas electronic ignition system usedon later 1275 cc engines consists of adistributor, an amplifier module and a coil.Externally, the distributor resembles aconventional type, but internally, a reluctorand a pick-up unit take the place of the camand contact breaker points.

Each time one of the reluctor arms passesthrough the magnetic field of the pick-up coil,an electrical signal is sent to the amplifiermodule, which then triggers the coil in thesame way as the opening of the points in aconventional system. Both centrifugal andvacuum advances are used in theaccustomed manner.

Because there are no contact breakerpoints to wear out, the electronic ignitionsystem is extremely reliable. As long as thedistributor is lubricated, the spark plugsinspected or renewed at the specifiedmaintenance intervals, and the leads andconnections kept clean and dry, it is veryunlikely that trouble will be experienced.

Electronic ignition system - fuelinjection models

The ignition system used on fuel injectionmodels is fully electronic in operation,incorporating the Electronic Control Unit(ECU) (situated on the right-hand side of theengine compartment), a distributor (driven offthe camshaft via a skew gear), a crankshaftsensor (mounted on the flywheel/torqueconverter housing, to register with the reluctorring fixed to the rear of the flywheel/torqueconverter), as well as the spark plugs, HTleads, ignition coil, and associated wiring. Thesystem is divided into two circuits; primary(low tension/LT) and secondary (hightension/HT). The primary circuit consists ofthe battery, ignition switch, ignition coilprimary windings, ECU and wiring. Thesecondary circuit consists of the ignition coilsecondary windings, the distributor cap androtor arm, the spark plugs, and the HT leadsconnecting these.

The ECU controls both the ignition systemand the fuel injection system, integrating thetwo in a complete engine managementpackage; refer to Chapter 4B for informationrelating to the fuel injection side of the system.

As far as the ignition system is concerned,the ECU receives information in the form ofelectrical impulses or signals from thecrankshaft sensor, from the coolanttemperature sensor (which supplies it withengine temperature), from the throttle pedalswitch (which tells it when the throttle isclosed) and from the manifold absolutepressure sensor (which gives it the load on theengine). The crankshaft sensor works inconjunction with the reluctor ring, which isbolted onto the back of the flywheel. Thereluctor ring has thirty-four poles on it, spaced10º apart, with two missing poles 180º apart;the missing poles identify the cylinder TDCpositions. The sensor reads these poles, toprovide an accurate assessment of the enginespeed and crankshaft position to the ECU.

All the above signals are compared by theECU, with set values pre-programmed(mapped) into its memory; based on thisinformation, the ECU selects the ignitiontiming appropriate to those values, andcontrols the ignition coil accordingly.

Note that this means that the distributor isjust that, a distributor of the HT pulse to theappropriate spark plug; it has no effectwhatsoever on the ignition timing. Also, thesystem is so sensitive that, at idle speed, theignition timing may be constantly changing;this should be remembered if trying to checkthe ignition timing.

2 Ballasted ignition system(carburettor models) -identification

1 As mentioned in Section 1, certain modelsmay be fitted with a ballasted ignition systemto improve ignition performance whenstarting.2 To determine if a vehicle is equipped with aballasted ignition system, check for thepresence of a supplementary wiring harness,incorporating the white/pink ballast resistorlead, between the fuse block and the ignitioncoil LT terminal.3 The ballast resistor lead replaces theoriginal coil feed. The original lead is colour-coded white, and is retained in the harness toaccommodate vehicles not fitted with aballasted system. Do not connect this whitelead to the ignition coil; it must remain tapedto the harness.4 Failure to observe this warning will result incoil overheating and premature contactbreaker point failure. Similar damage willoccur if a coil designed for use with aballasted system is fitted to a non-ballastedsystem, this being due to the excessiveprimary current produced. Should it ever benecessary to renew the coil, ensure that thereplacement is of the correct type.

3 Ignition system (carburettormodels) - testing 2

Contact breaker ignition system1 By far the majority of breakdown and runningtroubles are caused by faults in the ignitionsystem, either in the low tension or high tensioncircuit. There are two main symptoms indicatingignition faults. Either the engine will not start orfire, or the engine is difficult to start andmisfires. If it is a regular misfire, ie the engine isonly running on two or three cylinders, the faultis likely to be in the secondary or high tensioncircuit. If the misfiring is intermittent, the faultcould be in either the high or low tensioncircuits. If the engine stops suddenly or will notstart at all, it is likely that the fault is in the lowtension circuit. Loss of power and overheating,apart from carburettor settings, are normallydue to faults in the distributor or incorrectignition timing.

Engine fails to start2 If the engine fails to start and the car wasrunning normally when it was last used, firstcheck there is fuel in the fuel tank. If the engineturns over normally on the starter motor andthe battery is evidently well charged, then thefault may be in either the high or low tensioncircuits. First check the HT circuit. If thebattery is known to be fully charged, theignition light comes on and the starter fails toturn the engine, check the tightness of the

leads on the battery terminals and the securityof the earth lead at its connection on the body(don’t forget to check the engine to body earthstrap as well). It is quite common for the leadsto have worked loose, even if they look andfeel secure. If one of the battery terminal postsgets very hot when trying to work the startermotor, this is a sure indication of a faultyconnection to that terminal.3 One of the most common reasons for badstarting is wet or damp spark plug HT leadsand distributor. Remove the distributor cap. Ifcondensation is visible internally, dry the capwith a rag and wipe over the HT leads. Refitthe cap and spray the cap, leads and sparkplugs with a water dispersant aerosol.4 If the engine still fails to start, check that HTvoltage is reaching the spark plugs bydisconnecting each plug lead in turn at thespark plug end and holding the end of thecable about 5 mm away from the cylinderblock. If the plug caps are not detachable,insert a nail or piece of stiff wire into the cap.Hold the lead with insulating material - eg arubber glove, a dry cloth, or insulated pliers.With the ignition switched on, have anassistant crank the engine on the startermotor: a strong blue spark should be seen andheard to jump from the end of the lead to theblock. If it does, this suggests that HT voltageis reaching the plugs, and that either the plugsthemselves are defective, the ignition timing isgrossly maladjusted, or the fault is not in theignition system. If the spark is weak or absent,although the cranking speed is good, proceedwith the checks below.5 Remove the HT lead which enters thecentre of the distributor cap. Hold the endnear the block and repeat the check above. Agood spark now, if there was none at the pluglead, indicates that HT voltage is not beingtransmitted to the plug leads. Check the rotorarm, distributor cap and HT leads thoroughlyas described in Chapter 1. If there is no sparkat the HT lead from the coil, check theconnections at the coil end of the lead. If it isin order start checking the low tension circuitas follows.6 Separate the contact breaker points with apiece of paper between their contact facesthen switch on the ignition. Using a 12 voltvoltmeter or a 12 volt bulb and two lengths ofwire, test between the low tension wire to thecoil (marked SW or +) and earth. No readingindicates a break in the supply from theignition switch. Check the wiring and theconnections at the switch and correct anyproblems found. A reading on the voltmeter orillumination of the test bulb indicates thatvoltage is reaching the coil and the problem istherefore a faulty coil, faulty condenser or abroken lead between the coil and distributor.7 Remove the condenser from the baseplateon Lucas distributors or disconnect thecondenser lead on the Ducellier version. Withthe contact breaker points open, test betweenthe moving point and earth. If there is now areading then the fault is in the condenser. Fit anew condenser and the engine should start.


5B

8 With no reading from the moving point andearth, test between the coil negative terminal(marked CB or -) and earth. A reading hereindicates a broken wire between the coil anddistributor which must be repaired. No readingconfirms that the coil has failed and must berenewed. If the coil is to be renewed, ensurethat the correct type is obtained. The coilsused on ballasted and non-ballasted systemsare not interchangeable (see Section 2 forfurther details).9 Where a ballasted ignition system is fitted, ifthe engine starts when the starter is operated,buts stops as soon as the ignition key isreturned to the normal running position, theresistive wire may be open circuit. Connect atemporary lead between the coil positive (SWor +) terminal and the battery positive terminal.If the engine now runs correctly, renew theresistive wire. Note: Bypassing the resistivewire in this way must only be done briefly forthe purpose of this test. The wire must not bepermanently bypassed, otherwise the coil willoverheat and be irreparably damaged.

Engine misfires10 Uneven running and misfiring should firstbe checked by seeing that all leads,particularly HT, are dry and connectedproperly. Ensure that they are not shorting toearth through broken or cracked insulation. Ifthey are you should be able to see and hear it.If not, then check the plugs, contact breakerpoints and condenser just as you would in acase of total failure to start. A regular misfirecan be isolated by removing each HT leadfrom its spark plug in turn, (taking precautionsagainst electric shock) while the engine isidling. Removing a good lead will accentuatethe misfire, whilst removing the defective leadwill make no difference.11 Once the defective cylinder is located,switch off the engine, remove the lead fromthe spark plug again and hold the end about 5mm away from the cylinder block. If the plugcaps are not detachable, insert a nail or pieceof stiff wire into the cap. Restart the engine. Ifthe sparking is fairly strong and regular, thefault must lie in the spark plug. Remove andexamine its condition as described in Chap-ter 1. If the spark plug is proved to besatisfactory, there may be an internal engineproblem such as loss of compression on thedefective cylinder. Carry out a compressiontest, as described in Chapter 2A to determinethe condition of the engine internally.12 If there is no spark at the end of the HTlead, or if it is weak and intermittent, checkthe entire length of the lead from thedistributor cap to the spark plug. If theinsulation is cracked or perished, renew thelead. Check the connections at the distributorcap at the same time.13 If there is still no spark, carefully examinethe condition of the distributor cap asdescribed in Chapter 1, looking closely forsigns of cracks or tracking between theinternal segments.

14 Apart from the ignition timing beingincorrect, other causes of misfiring havealready been dealt with under the sub-Sectiondealing with the failure of the engine to start.To recap, these are:a) The coil may be faulty giving an

intermittent misfire.b) There may be a damaged wire or loose

connection in the low tension circuit.c) The condenser may be short-circuited.d) There may be a mechanical fault in the

distributor (incorrectly assembled contactbreaker points or broken contact breakerspring).

15 If the ignition timing is too far retarded itshould be noted that the engine will tend tooverheat and there will be a quite noticeabledrop in power. If the engine is overheating andthe power is down, and if the ignition timing iscorrect, then the carburettor should be checkedas it is likely that this is where the fault lies.

Electronic ignition systemNote: Refer to the warning given in Section 1 ofPart A of this Chapter before starting work.Always switch off the ignition beforedisconnecting or connecting any component andwhen using a multi-meter to check resistances.

Warning: Voltages produced byan electronic ignition system areconsiderably higher than thoseproduced by conventional

ignition systems. Extreme care must betaken when working on the system with theignition switched on. Persons withsurgically-implanted cardiac pacemakerdevices should keep well clear of the ignitioncircuits, components and test equipment.

General16 Electronic ignition is normally veryreliable; if it does fail, such failure tends to becomplete. If a fault does occur, or ifperformance is suspect, the following testprocedure should be used to isolate theproblem area.17 An electrical multi-meter which canmeasure voltage and resistance (ohms) will berequired for testing purposes.

Electronic ignition system testprocedure

Refer to the accompanying table18 If, after carrying out the test proceduresthe ignition amplifier module is diagnosed asbeing faulty, make sure that the wiring isintact and secure.


Test Remedy1 Is the battery voltage greater than 11.7 volts? Yes: Proceed to Test 2

No: Recharge the battery2 Is the voltage at the coil “+” terminal within

1 volt of battery voltage? Yes: Proceed to Test 3No: Faulty wiring or connector betweenignition switch and coil, or faulty ignitionswitch

3 Is the resistance between the ignition coil “+”and “-” terminals between 0.4 and 0.9 ohms? Yes: Proceed to Test 4

No: Renew the ignition coil4 Is the resistance between the ignition coil “+”

and HT terminals between 5.0 and 15.0 kohms? Yes: Proceed to Test 5No: Renew the ignition coil

5 Connect a low-wattage bulb across the ignitioncoil “+” and “-” terminals, and spin the engine on the starter. Does the bulb flash? Yes: Proceed to Test 6

No: Proceed to Test 106 Is the resistance of any HT lead greater than

20 kohms? Yes: Renew the HT leadNo: Proceed to Test 7

7 Are there any signs of tracking on the ignition coil, distributor cap or rotor arm? Yes: Renew the component as necessary

No: Proceed to Test 88 Is the ignition timing correct? Yes: Proceed to Test 9

No: Adjust ignition timing9 Are the spark plugs in good condition? Yes: Check carburettor settings and engine

mechanical conditionNo: Renew the spark plugs

10 Are the ignition amplifier module connections sound? Yes: Proceed to Test 11

No: See paragraphs 18 to 21 of thisSection11 With the module removed, is the resistance

of the distributor pick-up coil between 950 and 1150 ohms? Yes: See paragraphs 18 to 21 of this Section

No: Renew the distributor pick-up coil

19 As a double-check, remove the module,gasket and connector, and lightly squeezetogether the terminals inside the connector.Clean the terminals in the module anddistributor before refitting the module, andremember to apply heat-conducting siliconegrease to the mounting face on the distributor.20 Disconnect the wiring from the module,clean the terminals, and lightly squeezetogether the terminals inside the connectorbefore refitting it. Make sure that theconnector is fully located over the base.21 Check that the LT leads are correctlyfitted to the ignition coil.

4 Ignition system (fuelinjection models) - testing 2

1 If a fault appears in the engine management(fuel injection/ignition) system first ensure thatthe fault is not due to a poor electricalconnection or poor maintenance; ie, checkthat the air cleaner filter element is clean, thespark plugs are in good condition andcorrectly gapped, that the engine breatherhoses are clear and undamaged, referring toChapter 1 for further information. Also checkthat the accelerator cable is correctly adjustedas described in Chapter 4B. If the engine isrunning very roughly, check the valveclearances and compression pressures asdescribed in Chapter 1 and 2A.2 The only ignition system checks which canbe carried out by the home mechanic arethose described in Chapter 1, relating to thespark plugs, HT leads, rotor arm anddistributor cap, and the ignition coil testdescribed in Section 10 of this Chapter.3 If these checks fail to reveal the cause ofthe problem the vehicle should be taken to asuitably equipped Rover dealer for testing. Awiring block connector is incorporated in theengine management circuit into which aspecial electronic diagnostic tester can beplugged. The tester will locate the fault quicklyand simply alleviating the need to test all thesystem components individually which is atime consuming operation that carries a highrisk of damaging the ECU.

5 Contact breaker points -adjustment 3

1 If an ignition shield is fitted over the front ofthe engine, release the three plastic retaininglugs and lift away the shield. Detach the twospring clips or undo the two screws securingthe distributor cap to the distributor body andlift off the cap (see illustration).2 On models that have a distributor shieldattached to the inner front panel, remove theignition coil HT lead from the centre of thedistributor cap. Now detach the twodistributor cap securing spring clips orscrews. With careful manipulation it should bepossible to withdraw the distributor capupwards through the small space between therotor arm and the distributor shield. If difficultyis experienced, undo and remove theretaining screws and lift out the shield.3 With the distributor cap removed, clean andinspect it thoroughly as described in Chapter 1.4 Gently prise the contact breaker pointsopen to examine the condition of their faces. Ifthey are rough and pitted or dirty, they shouldbe renewed. Disregard any blue discolorationwhich may be apparent on their faces. This isdue to the formation of tungsten oxide; it hasno detrimental effect on ignition performancenor is it indicative of condenser failure.5 Assuming that the points are in asatisfactory condition, or that they have beenrenewed, the gap between the two facesshould be measured using feeler blades. Notehowever that on later models no contactbreaker points gap is quoted by themanufacturers. On these models, the gap canonly be adjusted using the dwell anglemethod described from paragraph 10 onward.

6 To adjust the gap using feeler blades, turnthe engine over until the heel of the contactbreaker arm is on the peak of one of the fourcam lobes. On manual transmission models,the engine can be turned over quite easily byengaging top gear and moving the carbackwards or forwards until the points arefully open. This should only be done on levelground; and make sure that the car cannotrun away! An alternative method, and themethod that should be used on automatictransmission models, is to press the fan beltmidway between the water pump pulley anddynamo or alternator pulley and then turn thefan blades. With the points fully open, a feelerblade equal to the contact breaker points gap,as stated in the Specifications, should nowjust fit between the contact faces (seeillustrations).


5B

5.1 Removing the distributor cap

5.6a Contact breaker points adjustment -Lucas 25D4 distributor

1 Screwdriver slot for adjustment2 Contact plate securing screw3 Contact breaker points

5.6b Contact breaker points adjustment -Lucas 45D4 and 59D4 distributor

A Non-sliding contact typeB Sliding contact type1 Rotor arm2 Screwdriver slot for adjustment3 Contact plate securing screw4 Contact breaker points


7 If the gap is too large or too small, slackenthe contact breaker securing screw slightlyusing a short screwdriver. Now insert thescrewdriver into the slot on the side or at therear of the contact breaker plate and move theplate in the desired direction to increase ordecrease the gap (see illustration).8 Tighten the securing screw and recheck thegap.9 With the points correctly adjusted, refit thedistributor cap and ignition shield ordistributor shield if previously removed.10 If a dwell meter is available, a far moreaccurate method of setting the contactbreaker points gap is by measuring andsetting the distributor dwell angle.11 The dwell angle is the number of degreesof distributor cam rotation during which thecontact breaker points are closed, ie theperiod from when the points close after being

opened by one cam lobe until they areopened again by the next cam lobe. Theadvantages of setting the points by thismethod are that any wear of the distributorshaft or cam lobes is taken into account, andalso the inaccuracies of using a feeler bladeare eliminated. In general, a dwell metershould be used in accordance with themanufacturer’s instructions. However, the useof one type of meter is outlined as follows.12 To set the dwell angle, remove thedistributor cap and rotor arm, and connectone lead of the dwell meter to the + terminalon the coil, and the other lead to the - coilterminal.13 Whilst an assistant turns on the ignitionand operates the starter, observe the readingon the dwell meter scale. With the engineturning over on the starter, the reading shouldbe as stated in the Specifications. Note:Fluctuation of the dwell meter needleindicates that the engine is not turning overfast enough to give a steady reading. If this isthe case, remove the spark plugs and repeatthe checks.14 If the dwell angle is too small, the contactbreaker point gap is too wide, and if the dwellangle is excessive, the gap is too small.15 Adjust the contact breaker points gap,while the engine is cranking using the methoddescribed in paragraph 7, until the correctdwell angle is obtained.16 When the dwell angle is satisfactory,disconnect the meter and refit the rotor arm,distributor cap and ignition or distributorshield.

6 Contact breaker points -renewal 3

Note: Carburettor models without electronicignition may be fitted with either a Lucas23D4, 25D4, 45D4, 59D4 or Ducellierdistributor. Identify the unit being worked onby referring to the illustrations and then

proceed as described below according todistributor type.

Lucas 23D4 and 25D41 Remove the distributor cap as described inthe previous Section then withdraw the rotorarm from the distributor spindle. 2 Undo and remove the small terminal nut,together with the washer under its head, iffitted. Lift off the flanged nylon insulator, thecondenser lead, and the low tension lead fromthe terminal post.3 Using a short screwdriver, unscrew thesingle screw securing the adjustable contactbreaker plate to the distributor baseplate. Liftoff the screw and flat washer, taking care notto drop them inside the distributor. Thecontact breaker points can now be withdrawn.4 To refit the points, first position theadjustable contact breaker plate and secure itwith the retaining screw and washer. Fit thefibre washer to the terminal post (and pivotpost where applicable), and then place thecontact breaker arm over it. Insert the flangednylon insulator with the condenser leadimmediately under its head, and the lowtension lead under that, over the terminalpost. Place the washer over the terminal postand finally the retaining nut.5 If a one-piece contact breaker pointassembly is being refitted, position thecontact assembly on the distributor baseplateand refit the retaining screw and washer.6 Place the condenser lead and low tensionlead under the head of the upper nyloninsulator, and then fit the insulator to theterminal post. Finally refit the washer andretaining nut.7 The contact breaker points gap should nowbe adjusted as described in the previousSection.

Lucas 45D4 and 59D48 Remove the distributor cap as described inthe previous Section then withdraw the rotorarm from the distributor spindle (seeillustration).


5.6c Contact breaker points adjustment -Ducellier distributor

1 Rotor arm2 Contact breaker points3 Contact plate securing screw4 Screwdriver slot for adjustment

5.6d Using feeler blades to check the contact breaker points gap 5.7 Adjusting the contact breaker points

9 Using a short screwdriver, unscrew thesingle screw securing the adjustable contactbreaker plate to the distributor baseplate. Liftoff the screw and washer, taking care not todrop them inside the distributor.10 Lift the contact assembly off thebaseplate and detach the tensioning arm fromthe insulator. Release the terminal containingthe condenser and low tension leads from theend of the arm and then lift away the contactbreaker points (see illustrations).11 To refit the points first engage the terminalcontaining the condenser and low tensionleads with the end of the tensioning arm.Make sure that the black lead is uppermost.12 Position the tensioning arm in theinsulator, place the contact assembly on thebaseplate and refit the retaining screw andwasher. 13 The contact breaker points gap shouldnow be adjusted as described in the previousSection.

Ducellier14 Remove the distributor cap as describedin the previous Section then withdraw therotor arm from the distributor spindle.15 Disconnect the contact breaker lowtension lead at the connector. 16 Using a small screwdriver or pointed-nosepliers, carefully extract the circlip securing the

moving contact arm to the pivot post.Remove the washer and lift off the movingcontact arm and low tension lead assembly.17 Unscrew the single screw securing theadjustable contact breaker plate to thebaseplate. Lift off the screw and washertaking care not to drop them inside thedistributor. Now lift away the breaker plate.18 To refit the points first position theadjustable contact breaker plate on thebaseplate and refit the retaining screw andwasher.19 Place the moving contact arm over thepivot post and engage the tensioning arm withthe insulator. Refit the washer and circlip tothe pivot post.20 Enter the grommet of the low tension leadinto the slot on the side of the distributor andreconnect the lead.21 The contact breaker points gap shouldnow be adjusted as described in the previousSection.

7 Condenser - testing, removaland refitting 2

Note: Carburettor models without electronicignition may be fitted with either a Lucas23D4, 25D4, 45D4, 59D4 or Ducellierdistributor. Identify the unit being worked onby referring to the illustrations accompanyingSection 5, then proceed as described belowaccording to distributor type.

Testing1 The purpose of the condenser (sometimesknown as a capacitor) is to prevent excessivearcing of the contact breaker points, and toensure that a rapid collapse of the magneticfield, created in the coil, and necessary if ahealthy spark is to be produced at the plugs,is allowed to occur.2 The condenser is fitted in parallel with thecontact breaker points. If it becomes faulty it

will cause ignition failure, as the points will beprevented from cleanly interrupting the lowtension circuit.3 If the engine becomes very difficult to start,or begins to miss after several miles ofrunning, and the contact breaker points showsigns of excessive burning, then the conditionof the condenser must be suspect. Whenexamining the contact breaker points,disregard any blue discoloration which maybe apparent on their faces. This is due to theformation of tungsten oxide, and has nodetrimental effect on ignition performance; itis not indicative of condenser failure. A furthertest can be made by separating the points byhand, with the ignition switched on. If this isaccompanied by an excessively strong flash,it indicates that the condenser has failed.4 Without special test equipment, the onlyreliable way to diagnose condenser trouble isto renew the suspect unit and note if there isany improvement in performance.5 Removal and refitting of the condenservaries according to distributor type as follows.

Removal

Lucas 23D4 and 25D46 Remove the distributor cap and rotor arm,referring to Section 5 if necessary.7 Undo and remove the nut and washer (iffitted) from the contact breaker terminal post.Withdraw the flanged nylon insulator andrelease the condenser lead.8 Undo and remove the small screw securingthe condenser to the distributor baseplate andlift the condenser away.

Lucas 45D4 and 59D49 Remove the distributor cap and rotor arm,referring to Section 5 if necessary.10 Release the contact breaker pointstensioning arm from the insulator and detachthe condenser and low tension lead terminalfrom the end of the arm.11 Undo and remove the small screwsecuring the condenser to the distributorbaseplate.


5B

6.8 Lift off the rotor arm . . .

6.10a . . . and with the retaining screw removed, lift the contactassembly off the baseplate

6.10b The LT terminal can then be detached from the tensioning arm

12 Disconnect the distributor low tensionlead at the connector, push the lead andgrommet into the inside of the distributorbody and lift away the condenser completewith low tension lead assembly.

Ducellier13 On the Ducellier distributor the condenseris mounted externally and removal consists ofsimply disconnecting the lead and undoingthe retaining screw.

Refitting14 In all cases, refitting is the reversesequence to removal. On the Lucas 45D4 and59D4 distributors, ensure that when theterminal is connected to the tensioning arm,the black lead is uppermost.

8 Distributor - removal andrefitting 3

Removal1 Release the three plastic retaining lugs andlift the ignition shield off the front of theengine. On models that have a distributorshield attached to the inner front panel, undoand remove the retaining screws andwithdraw the shield.2 Spring back the two distributor capretaining clips or undo the screws then placethe distributor cap to one side.3 Gain access to the ignition timing marks byundoing the two bolts securing the inspectionplate to the top of the flywheel housing andlifting off the plate. On models fitted withautomatic transmission, withdraw the rubbergrommet from the top of the converterhousing. On later models there is a timingscale on the timing cover, together with anotch or pointer on the crankshaft pulley.4 Turn the engine over until No 1 piston isapproaching TDC on the compression stroke.This can be checked by removing No 1 sparkplug and feeling the pressure being developedin the cylinder as the piston rises, or byremoving the rocker cover and noting whenthe valves of No 4 cylinder are rocking, ie theinlet valve just opening and the exhaust valve

just closing. On manual transmission models,the engine can be turned over quite easily byengaging top gear and moving the carforwards. This should only be done on levelground; and make sure that the car cannotrun away! An alternative method, and themethod that should be used on automatictransmission models, is to press the fan beltmidway between the water pump pulley anddynamo or alternator pulley and then turn thefan blades.5 Continue turning the engine, in the correctdirection of rotation, until No 1 piston is atTDC on the compression stroke. Verify this bychecking that the timing marks are aligned.The timing marks on the flywheel (or torqueconverter), and the pointer on the housing,can be viewed through the inspectionaperture using a small mirror (seeillustration). The 1/4 mark on the flywheel ortorque converter indicates TDC and should bealigned with the pointer in the housing. Onlater models with a timing scale on the timingcover, the notch in the crankshaft pulleyshould be aligned with the 0 pointer on thetiming cover scale.6 The distributor rotor arm should now bepointing towards the No 1 spark plug HT leadsegment in the distributor cap indicating that

the crankshaft is correctly positioned withnumber 1 cylinder at TDC on its compressionstroke. Temporarily place the cap in positionto verify this if necessary. If the rotor arm ispointing at the No 4 HT lead segment in thecap, rotate the crankshaft one full turn (360º)until the TDC timing marks are realigned andthe rotor arm is pointing at the No 1 segment.7 On carburettor models, detach thedistributor vacuum advance pipe from thevacuum unit (where applicable), then eitherdisconnect the low tension (LT) lead at theconnector or disconnect the ignition amplifiermultiplug according to distributor type (seeillustration).8 Using a dab of paint or a small file, make amark between the distributor body and theclamping plate. This will ensure that thedistributor is refitted in exactly the sameposition and that the timing is not lost.9 If the distributor is retained by a clampingplate having a pinch bolt and nut, slacken oneof the bolts securing the clamping plate to thecylinder block and then slacken the pinchbolt. If a C-shaped plate is used to retain thedistributor, undo and remove the securingbolt and lift away the plate.10 The distributor can now be withdrawnfrom the engine.


8.5 The timing marks on the flywheel canbe viewed through the aperture in the

housing using a mirror

8.7 Distributor removal

Inset: Timing marks: A Automatic transmission B Manual transmission

1 HT lead2 LT lead terminal

connector

3 Vacuum pipe connection4 Clamp securing bolts and

spring washers

5 Clamp nut and bolt6 Spring clip7 Distributor cap

Refitting11 Ensure that the crankshaft is still positionedso that number 1 cylinder is at TDC on itscompression stroke, then refit the distributor tothe engine, aligning the drive dog with the slot inthe drive. When inserting the distributor into theengine aperture, press down lightly on thedistributor body and at the same time rotate thedistributor shaft slightly. When the lug on thedistributor drive dog engages with the slot onthe driveshaft, the distributor will move intoward the engine a further 6.3 mm.12 If the original distributor is being refitted,align the marks made on removal between thedistributor body and clamp plate. If a newdistributor is being fitted to carburettor models,turn the distributor body until the rotor arm ispointing toward the No 1 HT lead segment inthe distributor cap. If a new distributor is beingfitted to fuel injection models, turn thedistributor body until the rotor arm and bodyare aligned as shown (see illustration).

13 With the distributor correctly positioned,tighten the pinch bolt and clamp plate bolt orrefit the C-shaped plate and tighten the bolt.14 Refit the cap to the distributor, and securewith the clips or retaining screws.15 If removed, refit the rocker cover andreconnect any disturbed spark plug HT leads.16 On carburettor models, reconnect thedistributor wiring and vacuum advance pipe.17 Before refitting the remainder of thecomponents on carburettor models, theignition timing must be checked and adjustedas described in Section 13.

9 Distributor - dismantling,inspection and reassembly 3

Note: The following procedures are applicableto the distributors fitted to carburettor models.The distributor fitted to fuel injection modelsconsists simply of a shaft and housing andcannot be dismantled. Check the cost andavailability of replacement parts beforeproceeding. If the distributor is excessivelyworn it may be beneficial (or necessary) toobtain a reconditioned unit.

Dismantling

Lucas 23D4 and 25D41 Remove the distributor from the car asdescribed in Section 8.2 Withdraw the rotor arm from the distributorspindle and then remove the contact breakerpoints as described in Section 6.3 Undo and remove the single retainingscrew and lift off the condenser (seeillustration).4 Unhook the vacuum unit operating springfrom the post on the distributor baseplate (not23D4).5 Undo and remove the two small screws andspring washers which secure the baseplate tothe distributor body. Note that one of thesescrews also retains the baseplate earth lead.6 Now carefully lift out the baseplate.7 Make a note of the position of the rotor armdrive slot, in the spindle, in relation to theoffset driving dog at the opposite end of thedistributor. It is essential that this isreassembled correctly, otherwise the ignitiontiming will be 180º out.8 Undo and remove the cam spindle retainingscrew which is located in the centre of therotor arm drive.9 Remove the two centrifugal advance weighttension springs and then lift off the camspindle. It is quite likely that the cam spindlewill prove difficult to remove and will not slidereadily off the shaft. If this is the case, applyliberal amounts of penetrating oil to the top ofthe spindle and rotate it back and forth whileat the same time pulling upward. This shouldfree the spindle and allow it to be removedfrom the shaft.


5B

8.12 Correct distributor rotor arm offsetand body position (No 1 cylinder at

TDC on compression stroke) - fuel-injected models

9.3 Exploded view of Lucas 25D4 distributor

1 Distributor cap2 Brush and spring3 Rotor arm4 Condenser5 Terminal and lead6 Moving baseplate7 Fixed baseplate

8 Cam screw9 Cam10 Advance spring11 Earth lead12 Contact breaker points13 Driving dog14 Bush15 Clamp plate

16 Cap retaining clips17 Shaft and action plate18 Bob weights19 Vacuum unit20 O-ring oil seal21 Thrust washer22 Taper pin


9.16 Exploded view of Lucas 45D4 distributor (59D4 similar)

1 Rotor2 Carbon brush and spring3 Cap4 Condenser (capacitor)5 Baseplate securing screw6 Felt pad7 Shaft assembly with steel

washer and spacer8 Low tension lead and

grommet9 Drive dog and thrust washer

10 Contact set securing screw11 Contact set12 Baseplate13 Vacuum unit retaining

screws and washers14 Vacuum unit link15 Vacuum unit16 Parallel pin17 Pinch bolt and nut18 Lockplate19 Distributor body

9.22 Exploded view of the Lucas 65DM4 electronic ignitiondistributor

1 Distributor cap, carbon brushand spring

2 Rotor arm3 Upper housing4 Vacuum unit5 Stator pack, thrust washers

and circlip6 Pick-up winding7 Clamp ring

8 Reluctor, centrifugal advancemechanism and shaftassembly

9 Thrustwasher10 Lower housing11 O-ring12 Drive dog and thrustwasher13 Connector and gasket14 Amplifier module

Inset indicates correct rotor arm-to-drive dog offset (for carburettor models)

10 With the cam spindle removed, thecentrifugal advance weights can now be liftedout.11 To remove the vacuum unit, prise off thesmall circlip located behind the knurledadjustment wheel. Now unscrew theadjustment wheel until the vacuum unit isreleased and then withdraw the vacuum unitfrom the distributor body. Note: A vacuumunit is not fitted to the 23D4 type.12 As the unit is withdrawn, retrieve theadjustment wheel together with the tensionspring and spring plate. The spring plate isresponsible for the clicks when theadjustment wheel is turned. This spring platetogether with the circlip are small and easilylost so put them in a safe place.13 It is only necessary to remove thedistributor driveshaft if it is thought to beexcessively worn. With a thin punch, drive outthe retaining pin from the driving dog on thebottom end of the distributor driveshaft. Theshaft can then be removed.

Lucas 45D4 and 59D414 Remove the distributor from the car asdescribed in Section 8.15 Withdraw the rotor arm from thedistributor spindle and then remove thecontact breaker points as described inSection 6.16 Push the low tension lead and grommetthrough into the inside of the distributor body(see illustration). Undo and remove thesingle retaining screw and lift off thecondenser and low tension lead assembly.Note that the condenser securing screw alsoretains the baseplate earth lead.17 Undo and remove the two vacuum unitsecuring screws, tilt the vacuum unit todisengage the pullrod from the baseplate peg,and withdraw the unit.18 Undo and remove the two screwssecuring the baseplate and the earth lead tothe distributor body. Lift off the earth lead,lever the slotted segment of the baseplate outof its retaining groove and withdraw thebaseplate.19 The distributor driveshaft should only beremoved if it is thought to be worn. Afterremoval it cannot be further dismantled, and ifnecessary must be renewed as an assembly,complete with centrifugal advance weightsand springs.20 To remove the driveshaft, drift out theretaining pin from the driving dog using a thinpunch. Remove the driving dog andthrustwasher and then lift out the driveshaftassembly.

Lucas 65DM421 Remove the distributor from the car asdescribed in Section 8.22 Pull off the rotor arm (see illustration).23 Remove the two screws and pull theamplifier module from the connector, thenremove the gasket and pull off the connector.24 Remove the screws, and separate theupper housing from the lower housing.

25 Remove the clamp ring and pick-upwinding from the upper housing.26 Remove the vacuum unit retaining screw,then extract the circlip and thrustwasher,withdraw the stator pack from the link arm, andremove the vacuum unit. Recover the remainingthrustwasher from the upper housing.27 Further dismantling is not normallynecessary. However, the shaft assembly maybe removed from the lower housing by drivingthe roll pin from the drive dog, after markingthe drive dog in relation to the shaft.28 Clean and examine all the components,and renew them as required.

Ducellier29 Remove the distributor from the car asdescribed in Section 8.

30 Withdraw the rotor arm from thedistributor spindle and then remove thecontact breaker points as described inSection 6.31 Undo and remove the two screws thatsecure the condenser, vacuum unit, and oneof the distributor cap retaining clips to thedistributor body (see illustration). Lift awaythe condenser and clip.32 Using a small screwdriver, extract thecirclip securing the serrated eccentric cam tothe D-post. Mark the position of the eccentriccam in relation to the spring seat of thevacuum unit operating link.33 Detach the vacuum unit operating link andthe eccentric cam from the D-post and lift offthe vacuum unit. Store the eccentric cam andthe small circlip safely, as they are easily lost.


5B

9.31 Exploded view of Ducellier distributor

1 Cap2 Rotor3 Rocker arm clip4 Moving contact

assembly5 Serrated cam6 Eccentric D-post7 Fixed contact8 Baseplate9 Felt pad10 Cap retaining clips11 Vacuum unit12 Condenser

34 Undo and remove the screw securing theother distributor cap retaining clip and take offthe clip.35 The distributor baseplate can now beremoved, taking care not to allow the nylonpressure pad and spring to fly off as thebaseplate is withdrawn.36 This is the limit of dismantling that can becarried out on these units. If the driveshaft,centrifugal advance weights or springs arethought to be worn, it will be necessary toobtain a complete new distributor assembly.

Inspection37 Thoroughly clean all the mechanical partsin paraffin or a suitable solvent and wipe dry.38 Examine the contact breaker points asdescribed in Section 5 and renew them ifnecessary.39 Check the distributor cap, HT leads androtor arm as described in Chapter 1.40 Check the vacuum unit for leaks of theinternal diaphragm, by sucking on theadvance pipe union connection and observingthe movement of the operating spring or arm.If, when suction is applied, a firm resistancebuilds up and the spring or arm moves intoward the diaphragm then the unit issatisfactory. If no resistance to suction is felt,and the operating spring or arm does notmove, then it is likely that the diaphragm ispunctured and the vacuum unit should berenewed.41 If working on a Lucas distributor, inspectthe two halves of the baseplate. If the springbetween the plates is damaged or if the twohalves do not move freely, renew thebaseplate.42 On all distributors, check for excessiveside movement of the distributor shaft in thebushes. Any excess side play here can greatlyaffect the accuracy of the ignition timing andthe overall performance of the car. If wear isapparent it will be necessary to renew thecomplete distributor.43 Examine the centrifugal advance weightsand pivots for wear, and also check that theadvance mechanism operates smoothlywithout binding. If these components areworn it will be necessary to renew thecomplete distributor in the case of theDucellier unit, or the shaft assembly in thecase of the Lucas 45D4. Advance weights andsprings should be available separately for theLucas 23D4 and 25D4 distributors.

Reassembly

Lucas 23D4 and 25D444 If the distributor shaft has been removed,lubricate the bearings in the distributor bodywith engine oil and refit the shaft. Position thethrustwasher and driving dog on the end ofthe shaft and tap in the retaining pin.45 Slide the vacuum advance unit into itslocation on the side of the distributor body.Place the spring plate in position, slide theadjustment wheel tension spring over the

threaded vacuum unit shaft, and then screwon the adjustment wheel.46 Set the position of the vacuum unit byrotating the adjustment wheel untilapproximately half the marks on the vacuumunit vernier scale are visible. Now refit thesmall circlip to the end of the shaft.47 Lay the centrifugal advance weights on theaction plate of the distributor shaft. Lightlylubricate the shaft and the driving pins of thedistributor spindle. Slide the spindle over theshaft and engage the driving pins with theadvance weights. Check that when viewedfrom the base of the distributor, the large offseton the driving dog is to the left, with the rotorarm driving slot on the cam spindle uppermost.If this is correct, refit the spindle retainingscrew. If not, reposition the spindle by 180º.48 Refit the two centrifugal advance weighttension springs to the posts on the actionplate and spindle. Check the action of theweights by spinning the distributor shaft andensure that they are not binding. 49 Refit the baseplate and the two retainingscrews, making sure that the earth lead isfitted under the head of the nearest screw.Reconnect the vacuum unit operating springto the post on the baseplate.50 Refit the condenser and secure with thesingle retaining screw.51 Refit the contact breaker points asdescribed in Section 6, and then place therotor arm on the spindle.52 The distributor can now be refitted to thecar as described in Section 8.

Lucas 45D4 and 59D453 Begin reassembly by lubricating thedistributor shaft assembly and sliding it intothe distributor body.

54 Place the thrustwasher and driving dog onthe shaft, with the raised pips of thethrustwasher toward the driving dog. Positionthe driving dog so that the tongues areparallel with the rotor arm electrode, and theoffset is to the left of its centre line with therotor arm pointing upward (see illustration).55 Secure the driving dog with the retainingpin. If a new shaft is being fitted, it must bedrilled through the hole in the driving dog toaccept the retaining pin. The drill size will beeither 3.175 mm or 4.762 mm, depending onthe type of driving dog fitted. When drilling,keep the shaft pressed down into the distributorbody, and the driving dog tight against the bodyshank. After fitting the retaining pin, peen overthe edges of the hole in the driving dog slightlyto secure the pin. Make sure that there is a traceof endfloat of the shaft when the driving dog isfitted. If necessary, tap the end of the drivingdog to flatten the thrustwasher pips slightly andincrease the endfloat.56 Position the baseplate on the distributorbody so that the two downward pointingprongs straddle the screw hole below thedistributor cap clip. Now press the baseplateinto the body until it engages the undercut.57 Refit the baseplate retaining screws andthe earth lead.58 Make sure that the baseplate prongs stillstraddle the screw hole and refit the vacuumunit. Engage the pullrod with the baseplatepeg and secure the unit with the two screws.59 Slide the low tension lead assemblythrough the hole in the distributor body andfully engage the grommet. Position thecondenser on the baseplate and secure it withthe retaining screw. Make sure that the otherend of the earth lead is positioned under thescrew head.


9.54 Correct positioning of the distributor driving dog in relation to the rotor arm - Lucas 45D4 distributor

1 Driving dog tongues 2 Rotor arm

60 Refit the contact breaker points asdescribed in Section 6, and then place therotor arm on the spindle.61 The distributor can now be refitted to thecar as described in Section 8.

Lucas 65DM462 Refit the shaft assembly if removed,locate the drive dog, and drive in the roll pin.Check that the drive dog offset is positionedcorrectly in relation to the rotor arm (seeillustration 9.22).63 Lubricate the shaft bearing with a littleengine oil. Also lubricate the centrifugaladvance mechanism.64 Locate the thrustwasher in the upperhousing.65 Grease the end of the link arm, then insertthe vacuum unit in the upper housing, andengage the stator pack with the link arm.Retain the stator pack with the thrustwasherand circlip, and fit the vacuum unit retainingscrew.66 Insert the pick-up winding in the upperhousing, centralise the terminals in theaperture, then fit the clamp ring with the cut-out over the aperture.67 Fit the lower housing to the upperhousing, and insert the screws finger-tight.Rotate the shaft several times, then fullytighten the screws.68 Check that the reluctor arms do not touchthe stator pack arms, as they can easily bebent inadvertently.69 Fit the connector and gasket.70 Apply heat-conducting silicone grease tothe mounting face of the amplifier module,then fit the module and tighten the screws.Refit the rotor arm.71 If necessary, renew the O-ring on theshank of the distributor, then refit thedistributor, as described in Section 8.

Ducellier72 Lubricate the centrifugal advance weightpivot posts and the distributor cam sparinglywith general purpose grease.73 Position the baseplate in the distributorbody, making sure that the nylon pressurepad and spring are in place, with the pad incontact with the distributor shaft.74 Refit the distributor cap retaining clip,located opposite to the vacuum unit, andsecure with the retaining screw.75 Position the operating link of the vacuumunit together with the eccentric cam, over thebaseplate D-post. Turn the eccentric cam sothat it is in the same position relative to thespring seat of the operating link, as markedduring dismantling. Now carefully refit thesmall retaining circlip.76 Secure the vacuum unit, condenser, andthe remaining distributor cap retaining clip tothe distributor body, using the two screws.77 Refit the contact breaker points asdescribed in Section 6, and then place therotor arm on the spindle.78 The distributor can now be refitted to thecar as described in Section 8.

10 Ignition coil - removal, testingand refitting 2

Removal1 Release the fasteners, and remove theignition shield from the front of the engine.2 Where applicable, slide back the rubbercover fitted over the end of the coil to exposethe wiring connectors. Disconnect the LTwiring from the coil terminals, noting theirpositions. Disconnect the HT lead from thecentre of the coil.3 If the coil is mounted on the dynamo, undoand remove the mounting bracket retainingbolts and lift off the coil. Slacken the clampbolt and slide the coil out of its mountingbracket.4 If the coil is mounted on the cylinder head,slacken and remove the nut securing the coilto the cylinder head stud, and remove the coiland bracket assembly from the engine. Ifnecessary disconnect the suppressor, thenslacken the clamp bolt and slide the coil out ofits mounting bracket.

Testing5 Testing the coil consists of using amultimeter set to its resistance function, tocheck the primary (LT “+” to “-” terminals) andsecondary (LT “+” to HT lead terminal)windings for continuity. If the meter is used,the resistance of either winding can bechecked and compared with the specifiedvalue; note that although no specified value isgiven by Rover for the secondary windings, asa guide, the reading should be in the region of5 to 15 kohms. The resistance of the coilwindings will vary slightly according to the coiltemperature; those specified are accurateonly when the coil is at 20ºC.6 Using an ohmmeter or continuity tester,check that there is no continuity between theHT lead terminal and the coil body.7 If the coil is faulty, it must be renewed.Ensure that the correct coil is obtained for thetype of ignition system fitted.

Refitting8 Refitting is the reverse sequence toremoval, ensuring that the wiring connectorsare securely reconnected.

11 Crankshaft sensor (fuelinjection models) - removaland refitting

1Removal

Manual transmission models1 Release the fasteners, and remove theignition cover from the front of the engine.Disconnect the battery negative lead.2 Chock the rear wheels then jack up thefront of the car and support it on axle stands(see “Jacking and vehicle support”).3 Remove the tie securing the crankshaftsensor wiring to the starter motor solenoid,and undo the bolt securing the wiringconnector to the mounting bracket (seeillustration).4 Disconnect the sensor wiring connector,then undo the bolts securing the sensor to theflywheel housing, and remove the sensor fromthe car (see illustration).

Automatic transmission models5 Disconnect the battery negative lead, thenundo the two bolts securing the ECUmounting bracket to the right-hand wingvalance, and position the ECU clear of thecrankshaft sensor.6 Undo the bolt securing the wiring connectorto the mounting bracket, then disconnect thesensor wiring connector.7 Slacken and remove the two bolts securingthe sensor to the torque converter housing,and remove the sensor from the car.

Refitting8 On all models, refitting is the reversesequence to removal, tightening the sensormounting bolts to the specified torque.


5B

11.3 Crankshaft sensor wiring connectorretaining bolt (arrowed) -

manual transmission models

11.4 Crankshaft sensor location (arrowed)on manual transmission models -

viewed from underneath

12 Reluctor ring (fuel injectionmodels) - removal andrefitting

3Manual transmission models

Removal1 Remove the flywheel as described inChapter 2A.2 Slacken and remove the two retainingscrews, and remove the reluctor ring from therear of the flywheel.3 Check the ring for obvious signs of wear ordamage, and renew it if necessary.

Refitting4 Refitting is the reverse sequence toremoval, ensuring that the reluctor retainingscrews are securely tightened.

Automatic transmission models5 On automatic transmission models, thereluctor ring is an integral part of the torque

converter assembly, and is not availableseparately. Refer to Chapter 2A forinformation on torque converter removal andrefitting. If the reluctor ring is damaged, thecompleted torque converter assembly mustbe renewed.

13 Ignition timing - checking andadjustment 3

Carburettor models1 In order that the engine can run efficiently, itis necessary for a spark to occur at the sparkplug and ignite the fuel/air mixture at theinstant just before the piston, on thecompression stroke reached the top of itstravel. The precise instant at which the sparkoccurs is determined by the ignition timing,and this is quoted in degrees before top deadcentre (BTDC). On pre-1976 models theignition timing may be checked with theengine stationary (this is the static ignitiontiming), or more accurately with the enginerunning, using a stroboscopic timing light. Onpost-1976 models a stroboscopic timing lightmust be used, as no static values are quotedby the manufacturer.2 If the distributor has been dismantled orrenewed, or if its position on the engine hasbeen altered, it will be necessary to reset theignition timing using the following procedure.3 First ensure that the contact breaker pointsare in good condition and that the gap iscorrectly set as described in Section 5.4 To obtain the static timing setting, removethe distributor cap and place it to one side.Gain access to the ignition timing marks byundoing the two bolts securing the inspectionplate to the top of the flywheel housing andlifting off the plate. On models fitted withautomatic transmission, withdraw the rubber

grommet from the top of the converterhousing. On later models there is a timingscale on the timing cover, together with anotch or pointer on the crankshaft pulley.5 The timing marks on the flywheel (or torqueconverter), and the pointer on the housing,can be viewed through the inspectionaperture using a small mirror. The 1/4 mark onthe flywheel or torque converter indicatesTDC, and the 5, 10 and 15 marks indicate 5º,10º, and 15º of advance before TDCrespectively. On later models with a timingscale on the timing cover, each pointer on thescale represents 4º of ignition advance, withthe larger pointer indicating TDC (seeillustrations).6 Refer to the Specifications at the beginningof this Chapter for the correct ignition timingstatic setting. The distributor number will befound stamped on the side of the distributorbody, usually just below the vacuum unit (seeillustration).7 Having determined the correct setting, turnthe engine over until No 1 piston isapproaching TDC on the compression stroke.This can be checked by removing No 1 sparkplug and feeling the pressure being developedin the cylinder as the piston rises, or by


13.5c The timing scale located on thetiming cover of later models

1 Timing scale13.6 The distributor number is stamped on

the body below the vacuum unit

13.5a Ignition timing marks - manual transmission models

1 Inspection cover 2 Timing marks 3 Pointer

13.5b Location of timing marks on torque converter - automatic transmission models

A Detail showing alternativetiming marks

B Insert screwdriver to turnconverter

removing the rocker cover and noting when thevalves of No 4 cylinder are rocking, ie the inletvalve just opening and the exhaust valve justclosing. If this check is not made, it is all tooeasy to set the timing 180º out, as both No 1and No 4 pistons approach TDC at the sametime, but only one is on the compressionstroke. On manual transmission models, theengine can be turned over quite easily byengaging top gear and moving the carforwards. This should only be done on levelground; and make sure that the car cannot runaway! An alternative method, and the methodthat should be used on automatic transmissionmodels, is to press the fan belt midwaybetween the water pump pulley and dynamo oralternator pulley and then turn the fan blades.

8 Continue turning the engine, in the correctdirection of rotation, until the appropriatetiming mark on the flywheel or torqueconverter is in line with the pointer on thehousing.9 The distributor rotor arm should now bepointing towards the No 1 spark plug HT leadsegment in the distributor cap. Temporarilyplace the cap in position to verify this ifnecessary.10 With the engine set in the correct positionand the rotor arm pointing towards theappropriate segment, turn the knurled vernieradjustment wheel, on the distributor (whereapplicable), until approximately half the markson the vacuum unit timing scale are visible.11 Next slacken the distributor clamp platepinch bolt and turn the distributor bodyclockwise until the points are just beginning toopen. If they are already open, turn thedistributor body anti-clockwise until they arefully closed, then turn it clockwise until theyjust begin to open. Now tighten the pinch bolt.If the distributor incorporates a knurled vernieradjustment wheel on the vacuum unit a veryfine degree of accuracy can be obtained.Turning the wheel in the direction “A”stamped on the vacuum unit advances thetiming, and turning it towards “R” retards it.Eleven clicks of the wheel represents 1º oftiming movement and each graduation of thevernier scale is equal to approximately 5º oftiming movement.12 Difficulty will probably be experienced indetermining exactly when the contact breakerpoints open, so the following method can beused. Connect a 12 volt bulb in parallel withthe contact breaker points (one lead to earthand the other to the distributor (-) low tensionterminal on the coil). With the ignition switchon the bulb will light as the points open. The

distributor body should be turned as inparagraph 11 until the point is reached wherethe bulb just lights up.13 To adjust the ignition timing using astroboscopic timing light, first connect thelight in accordance with the manufacturer’sinstructions.14 Start the engine and allow it to reachnormal running temperature. 15 Refer to the Specifications for theappropriate ignition timing setting and thecorresponding engine speed.16 Disconnect the vacuum advance pipefrom the distributor and adjust the enginespeed to that specified (see Chapter 4A).17 Remove the inspection cover from theflywheel or converter housing and shine thelight beam into the aperture. Use a mirror todeflect the beam onto the flywheel or torqueconverter. On later models there is anadditional and more easily visible timing scaleon the timing cover, together with a notch orpointer on the crankshaft pulley18 Turn the knurled adjustment wheel orslacken the distributor clamp or pinch boltand rotate the distributor body until the timingmarks and pointer appear stationary anddirectly in line with each other.19 Tighten the clamp or pinch bolt, recheckthat the timing is still correct, and thenreconnect the vacuum pipe. Afterdisconnecting the timing light, reset the engineidling speed to that specified (Chapter 4A).20 Whichever method has been used to setthe ignition timing, a thorough road testshould be carried out to ensure that theengine performance is satisfactory under allengine load conditions. As a general guide,the timing is correct if very slight “pinking” canbe heard with the engine labouring (ie at thepoint where you would normally change to alower gear). Any small corrections necessarycan be made during the road test using thevernier adjustment wheel, or by turning thedistributor body very slightly in the requireddirection.

Fuel injection models21 While home mechanics with a timing lightand a good-quality tachometer may be able tocheck the ignition timing, if it is found to be inneed of adjustment, the car must be taken toa suitably-equipped Rover dealer;adjustments can be made only by re-programming the fuel injection/ignition systemECU, using Rover diagnostic equipment con-nected to the system by the diagnosticconnector. Note also that the timing and idlespeed are under ECU control and may,therefore, vary significantly from the nominalvalues given; without full equipment, anycheck is therefore nothing more than a roughguide.

14 Transmission-controlledignition advance - checkingand component renewal

2Note: This procedure only applies tocarburettor models.

Checking1 To check the operation of the system,chock the front wheels, apply the handbrakeand start the engine.2 Increase engine speed to approximately2500 rpm.3 Depress and hold the clutch pedal downwhile selecting fourth gear.4 With fourth gear selected, engine speedshould increase by 300 to 400 rpm.5 Disengage fourth gear, release the clutchpedal, and stop the engine.6 If the system does not respond asdescribed, check the inhibitor switchadjustment as described below.

Component renewal

Inhibitor switch7 Chock the rear wheels then jack up thefront of the car and support it on axle stands(see “Jacking and vehicle support”). Place thegear lever in neutral.8 Disconnect the electrical leads from theinhibitor switch, located behind thegearchange remote control housing.Slacken the locknut securing the switch to itsmounting bracket then unscrew the switchfrom the bracket.9 Fit the switch to the mounting bracket andadjust as follows before tightening the locknutor reconnecting the leads.10 Connect a self-powered test lamp to theterminals of the inhibitor switch, and screwthe switch out of its mounting bracket until thelamp lights.11 Now screw the switch in until the lampgoes out.12 Screw the switch in a further one and onehalf to two flats, then tighten the locknut. 13 Check that the lamp lights only when thefourth gear is selected.14 Remove the test lamp, reconnect theelectrical leads, and carry out the testprocedure previously described.

Solenoid valve15 Pull the vacuum hoses from the solenoidvalve. 16 Disconnect the electrical leads.17 Remove the mounting screw, noting theearth lead, and remove the valve.18 Refitting is the reverse sequence toremoval, ensuring that the earth lead is fittedunder the mounting bolt.


5B


9

Chapter 9Braking system

System typeFootbrake . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Lockheed single or dual circuit hydraulic, servo assisted on certain

modelsHandbrake . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Mechanical by cables to rear brakes

Front drum brakesType . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Twin leading shoeDrum diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 178.0 mmMinimum brake shoe lining thickness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.0 mm

Front disc brakesType . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Disc with twin piston caliperDisc diameter:

Cooper S models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 190.5 mmAll other models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 213.4 mm

Maximum disc run-out . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.15 mmMinimum brake pad thickness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.0 mm

Rear brakesType . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Single leading shoe drumDrum diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 178.0 mmMinimum brake shoe lining thickness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.0 mm

Torque wrench settings Nm lbf ftDriveshaft retaining nut (disc brake models):

With multiple split pin holes in driveshaft . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 207 150With single split pin hole in driveshaft . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 255 to 270 188 to 200

Brake caliper retaining bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52 38Disc to hub flange . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57 42Master cylinder body outlet plugs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39 28Master cylinder pressure differential piston end plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 33Pressure differential warning actuator end plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35 26Pressure differential warning actuator failure switch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19 14

Brake disc - inspection, removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9Brake drum - removal, inspection and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4Brake fluid level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See “Weekly checks”Brake fluid renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1Brake pad wear check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1Brake pedal - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23Brake shoe wear check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1Disc brake caliper - removal, overhaul and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8Disc brake pads - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7Drum brake adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1Drum brake shoes - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5Drum brake wheel cylinder - removal, overhaul and refitting . . . . . . 6General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1Handbrake adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1Handbrake cable - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10Handbrake lever - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11Hydraulic pipes and hoses - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3

Hydraulic system - bleeding . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2Master cylinder (single circuit system) - removal, overhaul and

refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12Pressure differential warning actuator (dual circuit system) - removal,

overhaul and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20Pressure reducing valve (dual circuit system) - removal and refitting . 19Pressure regulating valve (single circuit system) - removal, overhaul

and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18Tandem master cylinder (dual circuit system) - identification and

modifications . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13Tandem master cylinder (type 1) - removal, overhaul and refitting . . 14Tandem master cylinder (type 2) - removal, overhaul and refitting . . 15Tandem master cylinder (type 3) - removal, overhaul and refitting . . 16Tandem master cylinder (type 4) - removal, overhaul and refitting . . 17Underbody and fuel/brake line check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1Vacuum servo unit - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21Vacuum servo unit air filter (1989 models onward) - renewal . . . . . . 22

9•1

Specifications

Contents







54321


Drum brakes are fitted to the front and rearwheels on all early models except Cooper Sand 1275 GT versions. These, and all latermodels have disc brakes at the front. Thebraking system is operated hydraulically by amaster cylinder, which is actuated by thebrake pedal. Disc brake models may also beservo assisted by a vacuum servo unitmounted in the engine compartment.

The hydraulic system on early models is ofthe single circuit type, whereby both the frontand rear brakes are operated by the samehydraulic system from the master cylinder. Onlater models a dual circuit system is used,whereby the brakes at each pair of wheels areoperated by a separate hydraulic system from atandem master cylinder. In the event ofhydraulic failure in one circuit, full braking forcewill still be available at two wheels. On earlydual circuit systems a diagonal split is used,each circuit supplying one front and onediagonally opposite rear brake. Later versionsemploy a front-to-rear split whereby both frontand both rear brakes are operated by aseparate hydraulic circuit. A pressuredifferential warning actuator is fitted to certainmodels to inform the driver of a hydraulic circuitfailure via an illuminated warning light, and alsoto restrict the flow of hydraulic fluid into thefailed circuit. This unit is either mountedseparately on the engine compartmentbulkhead, or incorporated in the mastercylinder. On single circuit and certain dualcircuit systems, a pressure reducing valve isincorporated in the rear brake circuit. This valvereduces hydraulic fluid pressure to the rearbrakes and prevents rear wheel lock-up due toforward weight transfer under heavy braking.On models not equipped with a pressurereducing valve, the same effect is achieved byreducing the rear wheel cylinder pistondiameters. A low brake fluid warning light is alsofitted to later models operated by a float-typeswitch in the master cylinder reservoir filler cap.

On models fitted with front drum brakes,the brake shoes are operated by two singlepiston wheel cylinders at each front wheel.Models with front disc brakes utilise a twinpiston fixed type caliper at each front wheel.At the rear on all models, one twin pistonwheel cylinder operates each wheel’s leadingand trailing brake shoes.

The handbrake provides an independentmechanical means of rear brake shoeapplication.

Adjustment of the drum brakes is providedby two adjusters on each front brake and asingle adjuster on each rear brake. Periodicadjustment is necessary to compensate forwear on the brake shoe friction linings. Thefront disc brakes do not require adjustment,as the pistons in the caliper automaticallycompensate for brake pad wear.

Note: When servicing any part of the system,work carefully and methodically; also observescrupulous cleanliness when overhauling anypart of the hydraulic system. Always renewcomponents (in axle sets, where applicable) ifin doubt about their condition, and use onlygenuine Rover replacement parts, or at leastthose of known good quality. Note thewarnings given in “Safety first” and at relevantpoints in this Chapter concerning the dangersof asbestos dust and hydraulic fluid.

2 Hydraulic system - bleeding 3Warning: Hydraulic fluid ispoisonous; wash off immediatelyand thoroughly in the case ofskin contact, and seek

immediate medical advice if any fluid isswallowed or gets into the eyes. Certaintypes of hydraulic fluid are inflammable,and may ignite when allowed into contactwith hot components; when servicing anyhydraulic system, it is safest to assume thatthe fluid IS inflammable, and to takeprecautions against the risk of fire asthough it is petrol that is being handled.Hydraulic fluid is also an effective paintstripper, and will attack plastics; if any isspilt, it should be washed off immediately,using copious quantities of clean water.Finally, it is hygroscopic (it absorbsmoisture from the air). The more moistureis absorbed by the fluid, the lower itsboiling point becomes, leading to adangerous loss of braking under hard use.Old fluid may be contaminated and unfit forfurther use. When topping-up or renewingthe fluid, always use the recommendedtype, and ensure that it comes from afreshly-opened sealed container.

General1 The correct functioning of the brakehydraulic system is only possible afterremoving all air from the components andcircuit; this is achieved by bleeding the system.2 During the bleeding procedure, add onlyclean, fresh hydraulic fluid of the specifiedtype; never re-use fluid that has already beenbled from the system. Ensure that sufficientfluid is available before starting work.3 If there is any possibility of incorrect fluidbeing used in the system, the brake lines andcomponents must be completely flushed withuncontaminated fluid and new seals fitted tothe components.4 If brake fluid has been lost from the mastercylinder due to a leak in the system, ensurethat the cause is traced and rectified beforeproceeding further.5 Park the car on level ground, switch off theignition and select first gear (manualtransmission) or Park (automatic transmission)then chock the wheels and release thehandbrake.

6 Check that all pipes and hoses are secure,unions tight, and bleed screws closed.Remove the dust caps and clean any dirt fromaround the bleed screws.7 Unscrew the master cylinder reservoir cap,and top-up the reservoir. Refit the cap loosely,and remember to keep the reservoir toppedup throughout the procedure, otherwise thereis a risk of further air entering the system.8 There are a number of one-man, do-it-yourself, brake bleeding kits currentlyavailable from motor accessory shops. It isrecommended that one of these kits is usedwherever possible, as they greatly simplify thebleeding operation, and also reduce the riskof expelled air and fluid being drawn back intothe system. If such a kit is not available,collect a clean glass jar of reasonable size anda suitable length of plastic or rubber tubing,which is a tight fit over the bleed screw.9 If a kit is to be used, prepare the car asdescribed previously, and follow the kitmanufacturer’s instructions, as the proceduremay vary slightly according to the type beingused; generally, they are as outlined in thetext below.10 The procedure for bleeding variesaccording to whether the car is equipped witha single or dual circuit braking system, andalso with dual circuit systems, the type ofmaster cylinder that is fitted. Identify the typeof system being worked on by referring to theillustrations, and to Section 13, then proceedaccording to type.

Single circuit system11 To bleed the system, clean the areaaround the bleed screw of the wheel to bebled. If the hydraulic system has only beenpartially disconnected, and suitableprecautions were taken to prevent further lossof fluid, it should only be necessary to bleedthat part of the system. However, if the entiresystem is to be bled, proceed in the sequenceABCD for right-hand drive cars, and BADC forleft-hand drive vehicles (see illustration).

9•2 Braking system

2.11 Bleeding sequence for single circuitbraking systems

12 Remove the master cylinder reservoir fillercap and top-up the reservoir. Periodicallycheck the fluid level during the bleedingoperation and top-up as necessary.13 If a one-man brake bleeding kit is beingused, connect the outlet tube to the bleedscrew (see illustration) and then open thescrew approximately one turn. Position theunit so that it can be viewed from the car thendepress the brake pedal to the floor andrapidly release it. The one-way valve in the kitwill prevent expelled air from returning to thesystem at the end of each stroke. Repeat thisoperation until clean hydraulic fluid, free fromair bubbles, can be seen coming through thetube. Then tighten the bleed screw andremove the outlet tube.14 If a one-man brake bleeding kit is notavailable, connect one end of the plastictubing to the bleed screw and immerse theother end in the jar containing sufficient cleanhydraulic fluid to keep the end of the tubesubmerged.15 Open the bleed screw approximately oneturn and have your assistant depress thebrake pedal to the floor, and then rapidlyrelease it. Tighten the bleed screw at the endof each downstroke to prevent expelled airfrom being drawn back into the system.

16 Repeat this operation until clean hydraulicfluid, free from air bubbles, can be seencoming through the tube. Then tighten thebleed screw on a downstroke and remove theplastic tube.17 If the entire system is being bled theprocedures described previously should nowbe repeated at each wheel in the correctsequence.18 When completed, check the fluid level inthe master cylinder, top-up if necessary, andrefit the cap. Check the feel of the brakepedal, which should be firm and free from anysponginess; this would indicate air stillpresent in the system.19 Discard any used hydraulic fluid, as theminute air bubbles and contamination whichwill be present in the fluid make it unsuitablefor further use in the hydraulic system.

Dual circuit system (early type)20 The following procedure is applicable tothe type 1 tandem master cylinder (seeSection 13) fitted to diagonally-split hydraulicsystems.21 To bleed the system, clean the areaaround the bleed screws of the wheels to bebled. If only half of the hydraulic system hasbeen disconnected, it should only benecessary to bleed that half, provided no airhas entered the other half. However, if theentire system is to be bled, proceed in thesequence ABCD for right-hand drive cars andBADC for left-hand drive vehicles (seeillustration).22 The procedure is now the same asdescribed in paragraphs 12 to 19 for thesingle circuit system, except that the brakepedal should be depressed rapidly, held downfor three seconds and then released slowly. Adelay of fifteen seconds should then beallowed before repeating.23 When bleeding Is complete, check theoperation of the pressure differential warningactuator as described in Section 20.

Dual circuit system (later type)24 The following procedure is applicable tothe type 2, 3 and 4 tandem master cylinders(see Section 13) fitted to diagonally-split andfront-to-rear split hydraulic systems.25 Before commencing the bleedingoperation, unscrew the brake failure warningswitch (where fitted) from the side of themaster cylinder body. (No fluid loss will occurunless there is internal pressure differentialpiston seal failure.)Note: If the system is being bled followingrenewal of the master cylinder, check whethera plastic spacer is fitted between the pressureswitch and master cylinder body. If a spacer ispresent, leave it in position during thebleeding operation and then discard it.26 To bleed the system, clean the areaaround the bleed screws of the wheels to bebled. If only half of the hydraulic system hasbeen disconnected, it should only benecessary to bleed that half, provided no airhas entered the other half. However, if theentire system is to be bled, it must be done inthe following sequence.27 For diagonally split systems, proceed inthe order ABCD for right-hand drive cars, andCDAB for left-hand drive vehicles (seeillustration).28 For front-to-rear split systems, proceed inthe order ABCD, irrespective of drivingposition (see illustration).29 The procedure is now the same asdescribed in paragraphs 12 to 19 for thesingle circuit system, except that the brakepedal should be depressed rapidly, held downfor three seconds, and then released slowly. Adelay of fifteen seconds should then beallowed before repeating.30 Where applicable, refit the brake failurewarning switch and tighten it to the specifiedtorque after completing the bleedingoperation.

Braking system 9•3

9

2.13 One-man brake bleeding kitconnected to the front bleed screw

2.21 Bleeding sequence for type 1 tandemmaster cylinder - see text

2.27 Bleeding sequence for type 2, 3 and 4tandem master cylinders with diagonal

split dual circuit braking systems - see text

2.28 Bleeding sequence for type 2, 3 and 4tandem master cylinders with front-to-rearsplit dual circuit braking systems - see text

3 Hydraulic pipes and hoses -renewal 3

Note: Before starting work, refer to thewarning at the beginning of Section 2concerning the dangers of hydraulic fluid.1 If any pipe or hose is to be renewed,minimise hydraulic fluid loss by removing themaster cylinder reservoir cap, placing a pieceof plastic film over the reservoir and sealing itwith an elastic band. Alternatively, flexiblehoses can be sealed, if required, using aproprietary brake hose clamp; metal brakepipe unions can be plugged (if care is takennot to allow dirt into the system) or cappedimmediately they are disconnected. Place awad of rag under any union that is to bedisconnected, to catch any spilt fluid.2 If a flexible hose is to be disconnected,unscrew the brake pipe union nut beforeundoing the nut which secures the hose to itsmounting. At the front, the other end of thehose will be screwed into its tapped hole inthe wheel cylinder or brake caliper.3 To unscrew the union nuts, it is preferableto obtain a brake pipe spanner of the correctsize; these are available from most largemotor accessory shops. Failing this, a close-

fitting open-ended spanner will be required,though if the nuts are tight or corroded, theirflats may be rounded-off if the spanner slips.In such a case, a self-locking wrench is oftenthe only way to unscrew a stubborn union, butit follows that the pipe and the damaged nutsmust be renewed on reassembly. Alwaysclean a union and surrounding area beforedisconnecting it. If disconnecting acomponent with more than one union, make acareful note of the connections beforedisturbing any of them.4 If a brake pipe is to be renewed, it can beobtained, cut to length and with the unionnuts and end flares in place, from Roverdealers. All that is then necessary is to bend itto shape, following the line of the original,before fitting it to the car. Alternatively, mostmotor accessory shops can make up brakepipes from kits, but this requires very carefulmeasurement of the original, to ensure thatthe replacement is of the correct length. Thesafest answer is usually to take the original tothe shop as a pattern.5 Before refitting, blow through the new pipeor hose with dry compressed air. Do notovertighten the union nuts. It is not necessaryto exercise brute force to obtain a sound joint.6 If flexible rubber hoses are renewed, ensurethat the pipes and hoses are correctly routed,

with no kinks or twists, and that they aresecured in the clips or brackets provided.7 After fitting, bleed the hydraulic system asdescribed in Section 2, wash off any spiltfluid, and check carefully for fluid leaks.

4 Brake drum - removal,inspection and refitting 2

Note: Before starting work, refer to thewarning at the beginning of Section 5concerning the dangers of asbestos dust.

Removal1 Chock the wheels then jack up the front orrear of the car as applicable and support it onaxle stands (see “Jacking and vehiclesupport”). Remove the relevant roadwheels.2 Slacken off the brake shoe adjuster(s) frombehind the backplate, then undo and removethe two brake drum retaining screws (seeillustrations).3 Remove the brake drum from the wheel hub(see illustration). If the drum is tight, gentlytap its circumference with a soft-faced mallet.

Inspection4 Brush the dust and dirt from the brake drumand carefully inspect the drum interior.5 If the drum is grooved, owing to failure torenew worn brake shoes or after a very highmileage has been covered, then it may bepossible to regrind it, provided the grooving isnot excessive.6 Even if only one drum is in need of grindingboth drums must be reground to the samesize in order to maintain even brakingcharacteristics.7 Judder or a springy pedal felt when thebrakes are applied can be caused by adistorted (out-of-round) drum. Here again itmay be possible to regrind the drums,otherwise a new drum will be required.


4.2a Location of the two front brake adjusters - A and B 4.2b Location of the rear brake adjuster - arrowed

4.2c Remove the brake drum retainingscrews . . .

4.3 . . . and withdraw the drum

Refitting8 Refitting is the reverse sequence toremoval. Adjust the brakes as described inChapter 1 before lowering the car to theground.

5 Drum brake shoes - renewal 3Warning: Brake shoes must berenewed on both front or bothrear wheels at the same time -never renew the shoes on only

one wheel, as uneven braking may result.Also, the dust created by wear of the shoesmay contain asbestos, which is a healthhazard. Never blow it out with compressedair, and don’t inhale any of it. An approvedfiltering mask should be worn whenworking on the brakes. DO NOT use petrolor petroleum-based solvents to cleanbrake parts; use brake cleaner ormethylated spirit only.1 Remove the brake drum as described inSection 4.2 Brush the dust and dirt from the shoes,backplate and drum.

3 Before removing the brake shoes, make anote of the positions of the shoes and thereturn springs and then remove the brakeshoes as follows.

Front brakes4 First release the small hook springs (wherefitted) securing the brake shoes to the wheelcylinder pistons. Now lift the end of each shoeoff the pivot side of each wheel cylinder, andthen the other end off the wheel cylinderpistons. Detach the return springs andwithdraw the shoes (see illustrations).5 If necessary, position a rubber band overthe wheel cylinders to prevent the pistonscoming out. Should there be evidence ofbrake fluid leakage from the wheel cylinder,renew it or overhaul it, as described inSection 6.6 Refitting the front brake shoes is thereverse sequence to removal, bearing in mindthe following points:a) Before refitting the shoes, smear a trace

of high-melting-point brake grease to thepivot areas of the wheel cylinder, brakeadjuster and backplate.

b) Do not allow any grease or hydraulic fluidto come into contact with the brake shoelinings.

c) Ensure that the shoes are refittedcorrectly and the return springs are intheir correct holes.

d) Repeat all the above operations on theopposite front brake.

e) With the brake shoes assembled anddrums refitted, adjust the brakes asdescribed in Chapter 1.

Rear brakes7 Lift the top of both shoes off the brakeadjuster pivots and detach the top brake shoereturn spring. Now lift the bottom of the frontshoe off the wheel cylinder piston anddisengage the handbrake operating lever (seeillustrations). Repeat this for the rear shoe andlift away both shoes and lower return spring.8 If necessary, position a rubber band overthe wheel cylinders to prevent the pistonscoming out. Should there be evidence of brakefluid leakage from the wheel cylinder, renew itor overhaul it, as described in Section 6.9 Refitting the rear brake shoes is the reversesequence to removal, bearing in mind thefollowing points:a) Before refitting the shoes, smear a trace

of high-melting-point brake grease to thepivot areas of the wheel cylinder, brakeadjuster and backplate.


9

5.7a Withdraw the rear brake shoes fromthe brake adjuster pivots, detach the

return spring . . .

5.7b . . . then lift off the front . . . 5.7c . . . and rear shoe from the handbrakelever and wheel cylinder

5.4a Remove the front brake shoes from the wheel cylinder pivotend first . . .

5.4b . . . and then from the piston end

b) Do not allow any grease or hydraulic fluidto come into contact with the brake shoelinings.

c) Ensure that the shoes are refittedcorrectly and the return springs are intheir correct holes. Ensure that the lowerrear return spring does not rub on thewheel hub when refitted.

d) Repeat all the above operations on theopposite rear brake.

e) With the brake shoes assembled anddrums refitted, adjust the brakes asdescribed in Chapter 1.

6 Drum brake wheel cylinder -removal, overhaul and refitting 3

Note: Before starting work, refer to thewarning at the beginning of Section 2concerning the dangers of hydraulic fluid, and

to the warning at the beginning of Section 5concerning the dangers of asbestos dust.

Removal

Front wheel cylinder1 Remove the brake shoes from the relevantwheel as described in Section 5.2 Thoroughly clean the rear of the backplatein the area around the wheel cylinder. 3 Clamp the flexible brake hose leading to thewheel cylinder with a proprietary brake hoseclamp, or a self-gripping wrench with theirjaws suitably protected. This will minimisehydraulic fluid loss when the hose or pipe isdisconnected.4 Disconnect the interconnecting brake pipefrom the rear of the two wheel cylinders.5 Undo and remove the two bolts securingeach cylinder to the backplate.6 If removing the cylinder containing thebleed screw, undo and remove the screw andlift off the cylinder.

7 If removing the cylinder containing theflexible brake hose, slacken the hose union atthe wheel cylinder half a turn. Withdraw thewheel cylinder from the backplate and when itis clear, turn the cylinder anti-clockwise tounscrew it from the hose, taking care not tolose the copper sealing washer.8 If the hose has not been clamped, suitablyplug its end to prevent fluid loss and dirtingress.

Rear wheel cylinder9 Remove the brake shoes from the relevantwheel as described in Section 5.10 Thoroughly clean the rear of the backplatein the area around the wheel cylinder.11 Clamp the flexible hose located at thefront of the rear suspension arm with aproprietary brake hose clamp, or a self-gripping wrench with its jaws suitablyprotected. This will minimise hydraulic fluidloss when the hydraulic pipe is disconnected.12 Undo and remove the brake bleed screwand the hydraulic pipe union from the rear ofthe wheel cylinder (see illustration). Suitablyprotect the end of the brake pipe against dirtingress.13 Using a screwdriver, prise off the retainingcirclip from the rear of the cylinder and thenwithdraw the wheel cylinder from thebackplate.

Overhaul14 Thoroughly clean off the exterior of thecylinder, then prepare a clean working area onthe bench.15 Lift off the rubber dust cover(s) from theend of the wheel cylinder and withdraw thepiston(s) and rubber seal(s), noting theirprecise location in relation to each other (seeillustrations).16 Thoroughly wash the components inclean hydraulic fluid or methylated spirit anddry with a lint-free cloth.17 Carefully inspect the surface of thepiston(s) and the internal bore of the cylinderbody for scoring, pitting or other signs ofwear. If any of these conditions are apparentthe cylinder must be renewed.


6.15a Exploded view of a front wheel cylinder

1 Cylinder body2 Dust cover

3 Piston4 Rubber seal

6.15b Exploded view of a rear wheel cylinder

1 Cylinder body2 Dust covers

3 Piston assemblies4 Rubber seals

6.12 Rear wheel cylinderremoval

1 Bleed screw2 Hydraulic pipe union3 Retaining circlip4 Wheel cylinder

18 If the wheel cylinder is in a satisfactorycondition, a new set of rubber seals should beobtained. Never re-use old seals as theircondition is bound to be suspect.19 To reassemble the wheel cylinder,immerse the piston and the new internalrubber seals in clean hydraulic fluid.20 Carefully fit the seal(s) to the piston(s) withtheir lip or larger diameter facing away fromthe main part of the piston(s).21 Slide the piston into the cylinder bore andthen refit the dust cover(s) after firstlubricating with the rubber grease supplied inthe kit.

Refitting22 Refitting the front and rear wheel cylindersis the reverse sequence to removal, bearing inmind the following points:a) Where a wheel cylinder has been

unscrewed from a flexible hose, use anew copper washer and ensure that thehose is not kinked when the cylinder isrefitted.

b) Ensure that the retaining spring circlip iscorrectly located in the groove in the rearwheel cylinder body.

c) After fitting the wheel cylinder andrefitting the brake shoes and drum, bleedthe hydraulic system as described inSection 2. Providing the hoses wereclamped as instructed, it should only benecessary to bleed the relevant wheel andnot the entire system.

7 Disc brake pads - renewal 2Warning: Disc brake pads mustbe renewed on both frontwheels at the same time - neverrenew the pads on only one

wheel as uneven braking may result. Dustcreated by wear of the pads may containasbestos, which is a health hazard. Neverblow it out with compressed air and do notinhale any of it. DO NOT use petroleum-based solvents to clean brake parts. Usebrake cleaner or methylated spirit only. DONOT allow any brake fluid, oil or grease tocontact the brake pads or disc. Also referto the warning at the start of Section 2concerning the dangers of hydraulic fluid.1 Chock the rear wheels then jack up thefront of the car and support it on axle stands(see “Jacking and vehicle support”). Removethe front roadwheels.2 Straighten the ends of the two brake padretaining split pins then extract the split pinsfrom the brake caliper (see illustration).3 Lift away the pad retaining spring platethen, using a pair of pliers, carefully withdrawthe two brake pads and (where fitted) theiranti-rattle shims from the front of the caliper(see illustrations).4 Carefully inspect the pads and renew themif the friction material has worn down to lessthan the minimum specified thickness.

5 Thoroughly clean all traces of dirt and dustfrom the recesses in the caliper, in which thebrake pads lie, and the exposed face of eachpiston.6 If new brake pads are being fitted it will benecessary to move the pistons back into thecaliper to accommodate the new, thickerpads. This will cause a quantity of hydraulicfluid to be returned to the master cylinderreservoir, causing the fluid level to rise andpossibly overflow. To protect the surroundingpaintwork, remove the reservoir filler cap andplace a large rag beneath the reservoir toabsorb any fluid that may overflow.Alternatively, siphon off a quantity of fluidfrom the reservoir first.

7 Using a flat bar or large screwdriver, leverthe piston in each half of the caliper, back intoits cylinder as far as it will go.8 Smear a small amount of high-temperatureanti-seize grease onto the edges and rear ofthe pad backing plates which contact thecalipers and pistons (see illustration). Do notallow any grease onto the friction material ofthe brake pads.9 Check that the cutaway face of each pistonis facing upwards and then place the anti-rattle shims in position.10 Slide in the brake pads, refit the padretaining spring plate, then secure theassembly using new split pins. Spread theends of the split pins to retain them in position(see illustration).11 Depress the brake pedal several times (itwill probably go right to the floor on the firststroke), to centralise the pads, and then checkthat the disc turns reasonably freely with thepedal released.12 Repeat the above operations on the otherfront brake. 13 Refit the roadwheels and lower the car tothe ground.


9

7.2 Extract the brake pad split pins fromthe caliper

7.3a Lift away the pad retaining springplate . . .

7.3b . . . then withdraw the two brake pads

7.8 Smear high-temperature anti-seizegrease to the pad backing plates

7.10 Spread the ends of the split pins toretain them in position

An ideal way to remove fluidfrom the master cylinderreservoir is to use a cleansyringe or an old poultrybaster.

8 Disc brake caliper - removal,overhaul and refitting 3

Note: Before starting work, refer to thewarning at the beginning of Section 2concerning the dangers of hydraulic fluid, andto the warning at the beginning of Section 7concerning the dangers of asbestos dust.

Removal1 Remove the disc brake pads as describedin Section 7.2 If the caliper is being removed for overhaul,slowly and carefully depress the brake pedalto bring the caliper pistons nearly into contactwith the brake disc. This will assistsubsequent removal of the pistons.3 Using a proprietary brake hose clamp, or aself-gripping wrench with its jaws suitablyprotected, clamp the flexible brake hoseleading to the caliper. This will eliminate anyhydraulic fluid loss when the hose isdisconnected.4 Slacken the flexible hose union on the sideof the caliper half a turn.5 Undo and remove the two bolts securingthe caliper to the swivel hub, and thenwithdraw the caliper forward and off the hub.6 With the caliper clear of the hub and brakedisc, support the flexible hose and turn thecaliper anti-clockwise to unscrew it. With thehose disconnected, recover the coppersealing washer and plug its end to prevent dirtingress.

Overhaul7 Carefully withdraw the two pistons one at atime from the caliper body. Do not attempt toseparate the caliper halves.8 Taking great care not to scratch thecylinder walls of the caliper, hook out the dustseal and piston seal from each calipercylinder.9 Thoroughly clean the caliper and pistons inclean hydraulic fluid or methylated spirit anddry with a lint-free cloth.10 Inspect the pistons and caliper bores inthe caliper for wear, score marks or surfacepitting, and if evident renew the completecaliper assembly.11 If the caliper and pistons are in asatisfactory condition, a new set of sealsshould be obtained. Never re-use old seals.12 Lubricate the pistons, seals and thecylinder bores in the caliper with cleanhydraulic fluid.13 Insert the piston seal into the groove inthe caliper and then insert the piston with thecutaway facing upwards.14 Push the piston into its cylinder until 8.0mm remains protruding.15 Now carefully insert the dust seal into theouter groove in the caliper and push itsquarely into place.16 Repeat paragraphs 13, 14 and 15 for theother piston.

Refitting17 Refitting the brake caliper is the reversesequence to removal, bearing in mind thefollowing points:a) Use a new copper washer on the flexible

brake hose and ensure that with thecaliper in position, the hose is not kinkedor twisted.

b) Tighten the caliper retaining bolts to thespecified torque.

c) Refit the brake pads as described inSection 7 then bleed the hydraulic systemas described in Section 2. If the flexiblehose was clamped as described, it shouldnot be necessary to bleed the entiresystem.

9 Brake disc - inspection,removal and refitting 3

Note: Before starting work, refer to thewarning at the beginning of Section 7concerning the dangers of asbestos dust.

InspectionNote: If a disc requires renewal, BOTH discsshould be renewed at the same time to ensureeven and consistent braking. New brake padsshould also be fitted.1 Remove the disc brake pads as describedin Section 7.2 Inspect the disc friction surfaces for cracksor deep scoring (light grooving is normal andmay be ignored). A cracked disc must berenewed; a scored disc can often bereclaimed by machining provided that thethickness is not significantly reduced. Consultyour Rover dealer as to the best course ofaction if deep scoring is evident.3 Check the disc run-out using a dial testindicator with its probe positioned near theouter edge of the disc. If the run-out exceedsthe figures given in the Specifications,machining may be possible, otherwise discrenewal will be necessary.

4 Excessive disc thickness variation can alsocause judder. Check this using a micrometer.No actual thickness variation figures areprovided by the manufacturer, but as ageneral guide, 0.010 mm should beconsidered a maximum.

Removal5 If not already done, chock the rear wheelsthen jack up the front of the car and support it

on axle stands (see “Jacking and vehiclesupport”). Remove the front roadwheel.6 Extract the split pin from the driveshaftretaining nut. If the brake pads have not beenremoved, have an assistant firmly depress thebrake pedal, while you undo and remove thedriveshaft nut using a socket and extensionbar. Remove the split-collar located behindthe driveshaft nut. If the brake pads havealready been removed for disc inspection,temporarily refit them to allow the driveshaftnut to be undone or, alternatively, fabricate ahome-made tool to prevent the hub flangerotating when undoing the nut (see Chapter 8,Section 2). Note that on later models, thedriveshaft retaining nut is extremely tight andit may be beneficial to use the home-madetool even if the pads are still fitted.7 Undo and remove the brake caliperretaining bolts. Lift off the caliper completewith brake pads (where applicable), and withthe brake hose still attached, and tie it out ofthe way from a convenient place under thewheel arch. Take care not to stretch theflexible hose.8 Withdraw the front hub flange and brakedisc from the swivel hub and driveshaft.9 To separate the disc from the hub flange,first mark the two components to ensure thatthey are refitted in the same position.10 Undo and remove the bolts securing thehub flange to the disc and lift away the disc.

Refitting11 Ensure that the mating surfaces betweendisc and hub flange are thoroughly clean thenplace the disc in position and refit theretaining bolts. If the original disc is beingrefitted, ensure that the marks made onremoval are aligned.12 Locate the hub flange and disc assemblyover the driveshaft and in position on theswivel hub. Smear engine oil over thedriveshaft threads and fit the split-collar anddriveshaft retaining nut. Tighten the nut fingertight only at this stage.13 Refit the brake caliper and secure with thetwo bolts tightened to the specified torque.14 If removed, refit the brake pads asdescribed in Section 7.15 Using the same procedure as for removalto prevent the hub rotating, tighten the nut tothe specified torque. Note that there are twodifferent torque settings for the driveshaft nut;one for driveshafts with multiple split pinholes, and a higher setting for driveshafts witha single split pin hole. Tighten the nut furtherto align the split pin holes in the driveshaft andnut, then secure the nut with a new split pin.16 Refit the roadwheel and lower the car tothe ground.


If a dial test indicator is notavailable, check the run-outby positioning a fixed pointernear the outer edge, in

contact with the disc face. Rotate thedisc and measure the maximumdisplacement of the pointer with feelerblades.

10 Handbrake cable - removaland refitting 3

Early models

Removal1 Chock the front wheels then jack up therear of the car and support it on axle stands(see “Jacking and vehicle support”). Removethe rear roadwheel and ensure that thehandbrake is off.2 From inside the car, undo and remove thecable adjusting nut at the handbrake lever,then pull the cable out of the lever trunnion.Slide the two washers and tension spring offthe threaded end of the cable.3 Lift up the carpets to expose the cable

guide plates located at the point where thecable passes through the floor.4 Engage the help of an assistant to hold thetwo nuts from underneath the car while thetwo cable guide retaining screws are removedfrom above. Lift off the guide and sealing pad.5 From beneath the car, pull the end of thecable through the opening in the floor and outof the passenger compartment.6 Bend back the tags slightly on the guidechannel located on the forward crossmemberof the rear subframe. Lift the cable out of theguide channel.7 Similarly bend up the pinched ends of themoving sector located at the front of the rearsuspension arm. Lift the cable and thelocating peg out of the sector (seeillustration), and then pull the disconnectedend of the cable through the opening in theside of the subframe.

8 At the other end of the cable, extract thesplit pin and withdraw the clevis pin securingthe cable end to the handbrake operatingarm. 9 Release the cable from the abutmentbracket at the rear of the brake backplate andlift the cable off the car.

Refitting10 Refitting the cable is the reversesequence to removal, bearing in mind thefollowing points:a) With the cable in position, pinch the ends

of the moving sector and subframe guidechannel slightly to retain the cable (seeillustration).

b) Ensure that the guide channel in thesubframe is well lubricated.

c) Adjust the handbrake as described inChapter 1 on completion.

Later models - front cable

Removal11 Chock the front wheels then jack up therear of the car and support it on axle stands(see “Jacking and vehicle support”). Removethe rear roadwheel and ensure that thehandbrake is off.12 Tilt the front seats forward and lift up thecarpet around the handbrake lever.13 Slacken the locknut, and then unscrewthe cable adjusting nut until the cable can bewithdrawn from the lever assembly (seeillustration).


9

10.7 Removing the handbrake cable fromthe moving sector

10.10 Pinching the ends of the movingsector to retain the handbrake cable

10.13 Handbrake cables and leverassembly fitted to later models

A Front cable adjustment detailB Rear cable and compensator detailC CompensatorD Front cableE Rear cable

14 Undo and remove the screws securing thecable guide plate to the floor. Have anassistant hold the two nuts from under the caras the screws are undone.15 Lift off the guide plate and pass the cablethrough the hole in the floor.16 Pull the cable rearwards and remove itfrom the compensator on the rear cable.

Refitting17 Refitting is the reverse sequence toremoval. Adjust the handbrake as describedin Chapter 1 on completion.

Later models - rear cable

Removal18 Remove the front cable as describedpreviously.19 Extract the split pins and withdraw theclevis pins securing the cable ends to thehandbrake operating arms at the rear of eachbrake backplate. Release the cable andtension springs from the abutment bracketson the backplate.20 Bend back the tags slightly on the guidechannels located on the forwardcrossmember of the rear subframe.21 Similarly bend up the pinched ends of themoving sectors located at the front of eachrear suspension arm. Lift the cable andlocating pegs out of the sectors, pull thedisconnected ends of the cable through theopenings in the side of the subframe, and liftaway the cable complete with compensator.

Refitting22 Refitting the rear cable is the reversesequence to removal bearing in mind thefollowing points.a) With the cable in position pinch the ends

of the moving sectors and subframe guidechannels slightly to retain the cable.

b) Ensure that the guide channels in thesubframe are well lubricated.

11 Handbrake lever - removaland refitting 2

Removal1 On early models lift up the front seats,unscrew the two handbrake cable adjustingnuts and pull the cables out of the trunnion onthe lever. On later models slacken the locknut,unscrew the cable adjusting nut and withdrawthe cable.2 Undo and remove the two nuts, bolts andspring washers securing the handbrake leverto the bracket on the floor (see illustration).Lift off the lever and withdraw it from the car.3 The handbrake lever cannot be dismantled,and if worn or faulty must be renewed as acomplete assembly.

Refitting4 Refitting is the reverse sequence toremoval. Adjust the handbrake as describedin Chapter 1 on completion.

12 Master cylinder (singlecircuit system) - removal,overhaul and refitting 3

Note: Before starting work, refer to thewarning at the beginning of Section 2concerning the dangers of hydraulic fluid.

Removal1 From inside the car release the heater airinlet ducting from the side of the heater unitand wheel arch. Remove the ducting fromunder the parcel shelf.2 Extract the split pin and withdraw the clevispin securing the master cylinder pushrod tothe brake pedal (see illustration).

3 Working in the engine compartment,unscrew the brake pipe union from the top ofthe master cylinder and carefully pull the pipeclear.4 Undo and remove the two nuts and springwashers securing the master cylinder to thebulkhead and lift off the cylinder.

Overhaul5 Remove the filler cap from the mastercylinder then drain and discard the hydraulicfluid from the reservoir.6 With the cylinder on the bench, withdrawthe rubber dust cover and slide it off over theend of the pushrod (see illustration).7 Using circlip pliers, extract the circlip andlift off the pushrod and dished washer.8 Tap the master cylinder body on a block ofwood until the piston emerges from the end ofthe cylinder bore.9 Withdraw the piston from the cylinder,followed by the piston washer, main cup seal,spring retainer, spring and non-return valve.10 Lay the parts out in the order of removal,and then very carefully remove the secondarycup seal from the piston by stretching it overthe end of the piston.11 Wash the components in clean hydraulicfluid or methylated spirit and dry with a lint-free rag.12 Examine the cylinder bore and pistoncarefully for signs of scoring, or wear ridges. Ifthese are apparent, renew the completemaster cylinder. If the condition of thecomponents appears satisfactory, a new setof rubber seals must be obtained. Never re-use old seals as they will have deterioratedwith age even though this may not be evidentduring visual inspection.13 Begin reassembly by thoroughlylubricating the internal components and thecylinder bore in clean hydraulic fluid.


11.2 Handbrake lever retaining nuts and bolts 12.2 Removal of the single circuit master cylinder

1 Master cylinder2 Retaining nuts

3 Pushrod-to-brake pedalattachment

4 Hydraulic pipe union

14 Using fingers only, place the secondarycup seal in position on the piston with the lipof the cup facing the opposite (drilled) end ofthe piston.15 Position the non-return valve over thelarger diameter of the spring and the springretainer over the smaller diameter, and placethis assembly into the cylinder bore, largerdiameter first.16 Now insert the main cup seal into thecylinder bore, lip end first followed by thewasher.

17 Insert the piston assembly into thecylinder bore followed by the pushrod, dishedwasher and circlip. Ensure that the circlip fullyenters its groove.18 Lubricate a new dust cover with rubbergrease and stretch it over the pushrod andinto position on the end of the cylinder.

Refitting19 Refitting is the reverse sequence toremoval. Bleed the complete hydraulic systemas described in Section 2 on completion.

13 Tandem master cylinder(dual circuit system) -identification and modifications

Identification1 Four different versions of tandem brakemaster cylinder have been fitted to Minimodels covered by this manual. The removal,refitting and overhaul procedures for the fourversions are distinctly different and it isimportant to correctly identify the unit beingworked on before proceeding.2 For identification purposes only, the mastercylinders will be referred to in this Chapter astypes 1, 2, 3 or 4. Identification is as follows:Type 1: Vertically mounted and

incorporating a circular plastic transparentfluid reservoir with large flat filler cap (seeillustration). Separate pressuredifferential warning actuator located onengine compartment bulkhead.

Type 2: Vertically mounted and incorporatinga rectangular plastic transparent fluidreservoir with small flat filler cap possiblywith brake fluid level warning indicator.Upper and lower hydraulic pipe union nutsof the same size. Pressure differentialwarning actuator integral with mastercylinder, operating a brake failure warningswitch fitted to the side of the cylinderbody (see illustration).

Type 3: Vertically mounted and incorporatinga rectangular plastic transparent fluidreservoir with brake fluid level warningindicator in the filler cap. Upper hydraulicpipe union nut larger than the lower nut. Ayellow plastic identification band shouldalso appear around the cylinder body (seeillustration). Fitted to modelsmanufactured from November 1985 to1989 and as a retro-fit replacement fortype 2 units.

Type 4: Horizontally mounted on the front ofthe vacuum servo unit. Fitted to modelsmanufactured from 1989 onwards (seeillustration).

Modifications3 In November 1985, the type 3 tandemmaster cylinder with a revised front/rear splitwas introduced to replace the type 2. Thisnew cylinder has a stepped bore, and theprimary and secondary circuits have beenreversed.4 Should a type 2 master cylinder requirerenewal, a type 3 unit will be supplied byRover dealers.5 To fit the type 3 cylinder to pre-November1985 vehicles, two modified brake pipes willbe required and, on vehicles without a brakefluid level warning indicator, a conversionwiring loom will also be required. Thesemodified components should be availablefrom Rover dealers.6 To fit a type 3 master cylinder to pre-November 1985 vehicles, proceed as follows.


9

12.6 Exploded view of the single circuit master cylinder

1 Filler cap2 Spring and spring retainer3 Dust cover4 Circlip

5 Pushrod and stop washer6 Secondary cup seal7 Piston8 Piston washer and main cup seal


13.2a Identification and removal of the type 1 tandem master cylinder

1 Hydraulic pipe unions 2 Retaining nuts

13.2b Identification and removal of the type 2 tandem master cylinder

1 Electrical wiring to failureswitch

2 Hydraulic pipe unions3 Retaining nuts

1 Yellow band 2 Larger pipe union 3 Smaller pipe union

13.2c Identification and removal of the type 3 tandem master cylinder

13.2d Identification and removal of the type 4 tandem master cylinder

1 Master cylinder mounting nuts2 Vacuum hose retaining clip3 One-way vacuum valve4 Brake pedal clevis pin5 Anti-run-on valve hoses

(where fitted)6 Anti-run-on valve (where fitted)

7 Servo mounting bracket nuts8 Servo pushrod clevis pin9 Servo-to-mounting bracket

nuts10 O-ring11 Brake pipe union nuts

7 Remove the master cylinder, as describedin Section 15. Note: On vehicles equippedwith a fluid level indicator, disconnect thewiring connectors from the switch on thereservoir filler cap.8 Remove the existing hydraulic pipes fromthe pressure-reducing valve (which run to thebrake master cylinder).9 Fit the new pipes to the pressure reducingvalve.10 Fit the new brake master cylinder, whichis a reversal of removal, then connect the newpipes to it.11 To fit the wiring conversion loom, first cutthe connector from the end of the two blackand white wires removed from the brakewarning switch on the old cylinder (seeillustration).12 Join the two wires together, fit a Lucarconnector, and connect it to one terminal ofthe fluid level warning switch on the newmaster cylinder.13 Using black cable, make up an earth leadwith a Lucar connector at one end and aneyelet at the other.14 The earth lead should be 533.0 mm long,and is connected to the other connector onthe fluid level warning switch, and routedalong the wiring loom in the engine bay to theexisting earth screw.15 Fill and bleed the hydraulic system, asdescribed in Section 2, and check theoperation of both the brake warning light andthe low fluid level warning light.

14 Tandem master cylinder(type 1) - removal, overhauland refitting

3Note: Before starting work, refer to thewarning at the beginning of Section 2concerning the dangers of hydraulic fluid.

Removal1 Place a cloth around the master cylinder tocatch any spilled fluid then unscrew thehydraulic pipe unions from the master cylinder

and carefully pull the pipes clear. Plug or tapeover the disconnected unions to prevent dirtentry.2 Undo and remove the two nuts and springwashers securing the master cylinder to thebulkhead. Lift off the master cylinder, leavingthe pushrod attached to the brake pedal.

Overhaul3 Remove the filler cap from the mastercylinder, then drain and discard the hydraulicfluid from the reservoir. 4 Mount the master cylinder In a vice withprotected jaws, so that the mouth of thecylinder bore is uppermost. 5 Slide off the rubber boot, compress the

return spring and, using a small screwdriver,remove the Spirolex ring from its groove in theprimary piston (see illustration). Take carenot to distort the coils of the ring or score thebore of the cylinder. 6 Using a pair of circlip pliers, remove thepiston retaining circlip. 7 Carefully move the piston up and down inthe bore so as to free the nylon guide bearingand cap seal. Lift away the guide bearing seal. 8 Lift away the plain washer. 9 Using a pair of circlip pliers, remove theinner circlip. 10 The primary and secondary pistonassembly, complete with the stop washer,may now be withdrawn from the cylinder bore.


9

13.11 Braking system conversion wiringloom details

A Loom B Earth screw

14.5 Cross-sectional view ofthe type 1 tandem master

cylinder

1 Filler cap2 Plastic reservoir3 Reservoir seals4 Main cap5 Piston washer6 Piston7 Main cup8 Spring9 Piston link10 Pin11 Pin retainer12 Main cup13 Piston washer14 Circlip15 Cup16 Circlip17 Piston18 Spring retainer19 Stop washer20 Washer21 Bearing22 Spring23 Pushrod24 Spirolex ring25 Rubber boot

11 Lift away the stop washer.12 Compress the spring that separates thetwo pistons then, using a small diameterparallel pin punch, drive out the roll pin thatretains the piston link.13 Inspect and note the location of therubber cups (look for the mouldedindentations) then remove the cups andwashers from the pistons.14 Undo and remove the four bolts thatsecure the plastic reservoir to the body and liftaway the reservoir.15 Recover the two reservoir sealing rings.16 Unscrew and remove the hydraulic pipeconnection adapters, discard the coppergaskets and recover the spring and trapvalves. 17 Wash all parts in clean hydraulic fluid ormethylated spirit and dry with a lint-free cloth.18 Examine the bore of the cylinder carefullyfor any signs of scores or ridges. If this isfound to be smooth all over, new seals can befitted. If, however, there is any doubt of thecondition of the bore, then a new cylindermust be obtained and fitted. Never re-use oldseals as they will have deteriorated with ageeven though this may not be evident duringvisual inspection.19 Reassembly of the master cylinder is thereverse sequence to removal, but the

following additional points should be noted:a) All components should be assembled wet

by dipping in clean brake fluid.b) Locate the piston washer over the head of

the secondary piston, convex surface first,then carefully ease the secondary cupover the piston and seat it with its flatsurface against the washer.

c) Fit new copper gaskets to the connectionadapters.

Refitting20 Refitting is the reverse sequence toremoval. On completion, bleed the completehydraulic system as described in Section 2.

15 Tandem master cylinder(type 2) - removal, overhauland refitting 3

Note: Before starting work, refer to thewarning at the beginning of Section 2concerning the dangers of hydraulic fluid.

Removal1 From inside the car, release the heater airinlet ducting from the side of the heater unitand wheel arch. Remove the ducting fromunder the parcel shelf.

2 Extract the split pin and withdraw the clevispin securing the master cylinder pushrod tothe brake pedal.3 Working in the engine compartment,disconnect the wiring connector from thebrake failure warning switch on the mastercylinder body.4 Place a cloth around the master cylinder tocatch any spilled fluid then unscrew thehydraulic pipe unions from the side of themaster cylinder body and carefully pull thepipes clear. Plug or tape over thedisconnected unions to prevent dirt entry.5 Unscrew the two nuts securing the mastercylinder to the bulkhead and lift the unit off.

Overhaul6 Remove the filler cap from the mastercylinder, and drain and discard the hydraulicfluid from the reservoir.7 Mount the cylinder in a vice with protectedjaws, so that the reservoir is uppermost.8 Unscrew the two reservoir retaining screwsand lift the reservoir off the master cylinderbody (see illustration). Carefully withdraw thetwo reservoir sealing washers from theoutlets.9 Push in the pushrod as far as possible, andusing pliers, extract the secondary piston stoppin from its recess.


15.8 Exploded view of the type 2 tandemmaster cylinder

1 Reservoir and retaining screw2 Reservoir sealing washers3 Master cylinder body4 End plug assembly5 Pressure differential piston

(insert shows alternativeassembly)

6 Primary piston and spring (insetshows alternative assembly)

7 Piston rubber seals8 Secondary piston and spring9 Secondary piston seals10 Primary piston

seals11 Dust cover12 Circlip13 Stop pin14 Secondary piston

seals

10 Release the pushrod rubber boot from theend of the cylinder, push the pushrod in andextract the retaining circlip. Now lift away thepushrod assembly.11 Remove the master cylinder from the vice,tap it on a block of wood and withdraw theprimary and secondary piston assembliesfrom the cylinder bore.12 Unscrew the brake failure switch from thecylinder body.13 Unscrew the end plug and washer, thenremove the distance piece and pressuredifferential piston assembly.14 Note the position and direction of fitting ofthe rubber seals on the piston assemblies,and then carefully remove them.15 Wash all the parts in clean hydraulic fluidor methylated spirit and dry with a lint-freecloth.16 Examine the bore of the master cylindercarefully for any signs of scores or ridges. Ifthis is found to be smooth all over, new sealscan be fitted. If, however, there is any doubt

about the condition of the bore, then a newcylinder must be obtained and fitted. Neverre-use old seals, as they will have deterioratedwith age even though this may not be evidentduring visual inspection.17 Reassembly of the master cylinder is thereverse sequence to removal, but thefollowing additional points should be noted:a) Thoroughly lubricate all components in

clean hydraulic fluid and assemble them wetb) Refit the seals onto the pistons using

fingers only, and ensure that they arefitted the correct way round

c) When refitting the secondary pistonassembly, push the piston down the boreusing a soft metal rod and insert the stoppin. The primary piston and remainingcomponents can then be fitted

Refitting18 Refitting is the reverse sequence toremoval. On completion, bleed the completehydraulic system as described in Section 2.


3Removal, refitting and overhaul of the type

3 master cylinder is essentially the same asfor the type 2 unit and reference should bemade to the procedures contained in Section15. Bear in mind also the differences betweenthe two types outlined in Section 13.


3Note: Before starting work, refer to thewarning at the beginning of Section 2concerning the dangers of hydraulic fluid.

Removal1 If necessary, for improved access to thefront and rear bleed screws, jack up the frontand rear of the car and support it on axlestands (see “Jacking and vehicle support”). 2 Connect a bleed tube to both the frontcaliper and rear wheel cylinder bleed screwson the right-hand side, and place the ends ofthe tubes in suitable containers. 3 Open both bleed screws and depress thebrake pedal until the master cylinder iscompletely empty, then tighten the screws.4 Disconnect the low fluid level warning lightwiring from the fluid reservoir filler cap.5 Place a cloth around the master cylinder tocatch any spilled fluid then unscrew thehydraulic pipe unions from the master cylinderand carefully pull the pipes clear. Plug or tapeover the disconnected unions to prevent dirtentry.6 Unscrew the mounting nuts securing themaster cylinder to the vacuum servo unit, thenwithdraw it from the engine compartment,taking care not to spill any brake fluid on thebodywork.7 Remove the O-ring from the recess in themaster cylinder.

Overhaul8 Remove the filler cap from the mastercylinder, and drain and discard the hydraulicfluid from the reservoir.9 Mount the cylinder in a vice with protectedjaws, so that the reservoir is uppermost.10 Tap out the retaining roll pin and lift thereservoir off the master cylinder body (seeillustration). Carefully withdraw the tworeservoir sealing washers from the outletsfollowed by the metal seating washers.11 Push in the primary piston and, usingpliers, extract the secondary piston stop pinfrom its recess.12 Extract the retaining circlip from the endof the master cylinder bore. 13 Remove the master cylinder from the vice,tap it on a block of wood and withdraw theprimary and secondary piston assembliesfrom the cylinder bore.


9

17.10 Exploded view of the type 4 tandem master cylinder

1 Roll pin2 Brake fluid reservoir3 Sealing washers4 Metal seating washers5 Secondary piston stop-pin6 O-ring7 Circlip

8 Primary spring9 Spring retainer10 Secondary piston components11 Secondary spring12 Spring retainer13 Seal and washer14 Primary piston components

14 Note the position and direction of fitting ofthe rubber seals on the piston assemblies,then carefully remove them.15 Wash all the parts in clean hydraulic fluidor methylated spirit and dry with a lint-freecloth.16 Examine the bore of the master cylindercarefully for any signs of scores or ridges. Ifthis is found to be smooth all over, new sealscan be fitted. If, however, there is any doubtabout the condition of the bore, then a newcylinder must be obtained and fitted. Neverre-use old seals, as they will have deterioratedwith age even though this may not be evidentduring visual inspection.17 Reassembly of the master cylinder is thereverse sequence to removal, but thefollowing additional points should be noted:a) Thoroughly lubricate all components in

clean hydraulic fluid and assemble themwet.

b) Refit the seals onto the pistons usingfingers only, and ensure that they arefitted the correct way round.

c) When refitting the secondary pistonassembly, push the piston down the boreusing a soft metal rod and insert the stoppin. The primary piston and remainingcomponents can then be fitted.

Refitting18 Refitting is the revere sequence toremoval, but note the following additionalpoints:a) Smear the O-ring with clean brake fluid

before fitting it in the recess.b) On completion, bleed the hydraulic

system as described in Section 2.c) Check that the low fluid warning system is

functioning correctly.

18 Pressure regulating valve(single circuit system) -removal, overhaul and refitting

3Note: All models with single circuit brakingsystems incorporate a pressure regulatingvalve in the rear brake hydraulic circuit. Thevalve regulates the hydraulic pressureavailable at the rear wheels, and thereforeprevents the rear brakes from locking due toforward weight transfer under heavy braking.Before starting work, refer to the warning atthe beginning of Section 2 concerning thedangers of hydraulic fluid.

Removal1 Chock the front wheels then jack up therear of the car and support it on axle stands(see “Jacking and vehicle support”). Removethe rear roadwheels.2 Remove the brake master cylinder filler cap,top-up the reservoir, place a thin piece ofpolythene over the filler neck and refit the cap.This will reduce hydraulic fluid loss when therear brake pipes are removed from theregulating valve.3 Thoroughly clean the exterior of the valve,located on the rear subframe, ensuring that alldirt and grit is removed from the area aroundthe brake pipe unions (see illustration).4 Undo and remove the three hydraulicunions and lift the brake pipes out of thevalve. Protect the ends of the pipes to preventpossible dirt ingress.5 Undo and remove the retaining nut and boltand lift the valve off its mounting.

Overhaul6 Clamp the valve in a vice and remove thelarge end plug and sealing washer.7 Lift out the valve assembly and returnspring.8 Thoroughly clean the components in cleanhydraulic fluid or methylated spirit and drywith a lint-free cloth.

9 Examine the valve, cylinder bore and rubberseals for wear and renew as necessary.Rubber seals are not supplied separately, andif they appear swollen or worn it will benecessary to obtain a new valve assemblycomplete with seals.10 Lubricate the components in cleanhydraulic fluid and then refit the spring andvalve assembly into the valve body. Now refitthe end plug and sealing washer.

Refitting11 Refitting the valve is the reverse sequenceto removal. Bleed the hydraulic system asdescribed in Section 2 on completion. Ifhydraulic fluid loss has been kept to aminimum it should only be necessary to bleedthe rear brakes.

19 Pressure reducing valve(dual circuit system) -removal and refitting

3Note: On certain models fitted with dualcircuit braking systems a pressure reducingvalve is used to limit the braking force at therear wheels. The operation of the valve issimilar to the pressure regulating valve usedon single circuit systems. Before starting work,refer to the warning at the beginning ofSection 2 concerning the dangers of hydraulicfluid.

Removal1 Remove the brake master cylinder filler cap,top-up the reservoir, and place a thin piece ofpolythene over the filler neck. Secure thepolythene with an elastic band or by refittingthe cap. This will reduce hydraulic fluid losswhen the brake pipes are disconnected fromthe valve.2 Unscrew the four pipe unions from thereducing valve and carefully lift out the pipes.Protect the disconnected unions to preventpossible dirt ingress (see illustration).


18.3 Location of pressure regulating valve on rear subframe 19.2 Pressure reducing valve hydraulic pipe unions

3 Undo and remove the retaining bolt and liftoff the valve.4 The pressure reducing valve is a sealed unitand cannot be dismantled. If the valve is faultyit must be renewed as a complete assembly.

Refitting5 Refitting is the reverse sequence toremoval. Bleed the hydraulic system asdescribed in Section 2 on completion.

20 Pressure differential warningactuator (dual circuit system)- removal, overhaul and refitting

3Note: On early type dual circuit brakingsystems, a separate pressure differentialwarning actuator, located on the enginecompartment bulkhead, informs the driver offailure of one of the braking hydraulic circuits.On later systems so equipped, the warningactuator is incorporated in the master cylinder.Before starting work, refer to the warning atthe beginning of Section 2 concerning thedangers of hydraulic fluid.

Removal1 Unscrew the brake master cylinder fillercap, place a piece of polythene over the fillerneck and refit the cap. This will reducehydraulic fluid loss when the brake pipes aredisconnected.2 Detach the electrical connector from theswitch on the side of the warning actuatorbody.3 Unscrew the hydraulic pipe unions and

carefully remove the pipes. Protect thedisconnected unions from possible dirtingress.4 Undo and remove the retaining bolt and liftoff the unit.

Overhaul5 Clean off the exterior of the unit and makesure it is free from dirt and grit.6 Undo and remove the end plug and discardthe copper washer (see illustration). 7 Unscrew the warning light switch.8 Tap the warning actuator body on a blockof wood to release the shuttle valve pistonassembly and withdraw it from the bore.9 Remove the two rubber seals from thepiston.10 Wash the components in clean hydraulicfluid or methylated spirit and dry with a lint-free cloth.11 Carefully inspect the piston and thecasing bore for scoring and damage. If thebore and piston are not in perfect condition,renew the complete pressure differentialwarning actuator. If the components are in asatisfactory condition obtain new seals and anew copper sealing washer. Do not re-use theold seals.12 Reassembly of the unit is the reverse ofthe dismantling sequence. Lubricate all theparts with clean hydraulic fluid and assemblethem wet. Observe the specified torquewrench settings when refitting the end plugand warning light switch.

Refitting13 Refitting is the reverse sequence to

removal. Bleed the hydraulic system asdescribed in Section 2 after refitting.14 After bleeding the braking system, switchon the ignition and observe the brake failurewarning light. If the light is illuminated, pressthe brake pedal hard: the light should go outand stay out when the pedal is released. If thelight fails to go out, the pressure in the brakingsystem is unbalanced or there is a fault in thewarning actuator or its switch. Bleed thebraking system again, and if this fails to curethe trouble, investigate the warning actuatorand the switch.15 If the brake failure warning light is notilluminated when the brake pedal isdepressed, but does come on when the test-push on the switch is operated, then thesystem is functioning satisfactorily.

21 Vacuum servo unit - removaland refitting 3

Pre-1989 models

Removal1 Unscrew the brake master cylinder fillercap, place a piece of polythene over the fillerneck and refit the cap. This will minimisehydraulic fluid loss when the servo isremoved.2 From under the right-hand front wingdetach the inlet ducting from the inlet unit andthen withdraw the inlet unit from inside theengine compartment.3 Disconnect the vacuum pipe from the one-way valve on the servo unit.4 Remove the securing bracket from the endof the servo unit.5 Unscrew the hydraulic pipe unions andcarefully withdraw them from the servo.Protect the disconnected unions againstpossible dirt ingress.6 Undo and remove the nuts securing theservo to its mounting bracket and lift away theunit.

Refitting7 Refitting is the reverse sequence toremoval. Bleed the hydraulic system asdescribed in Section 2 on completion.

1989 models onward

Removal8 Disconnect the low brake fluid level warninglight wiring from the master cylinder fluidreservoir filler cap.9 Unscrew the master cylinder mounting nutsfrom the servo unit.10 Position a container beneath the mastercylinder, then loosen (but do not remove) thehydraulic pipe union nuts, to prevent damageto the pipes when the master cylinder ismoved from the servo unit. Move the mastercylinder clear of the servo unit, then retightenthe union nuts.


9

20.6 Exploded view of the pressure differential warning actuator

1 End adapter2 Copper washer3 O-ring

4 Sleeve5 Circlip6 Piston

7 Body8 Switch

11 Disconnect the vacuum hose from theservo unit, and release it from the clip.12 Extract the split pin, and withdraw theclevis pin securing the pushrod to the brakepedal.13 Disconnect the anti-run-on valve hoses,and plug them.14 Unscrew the bolt securing the anti-run-onvalve to the servo mounting bracket.15 Unscrew the mounting nuts and bolts,and withdraw the servo unit and bracketassembly from the engine compartment.16 Separate the servo unit from the bracketby disconnecting the clevis and unscrewingthe nuts. Prise the O-ring from the recess inthe master cylinder.

17 Refitting is the reverse sequence toremoval. Smear the O-ring with clean brakehydraulic fluid and bleed the hydraulic systemas described in Section 2 on completion.

22 Vacuum servo unit air filter(1989 models onward) -renewal

21 Working in the engine compartment, priseback the rubber boot from the rear of theservo, and slide it along the push rod (seeillustration).2 Prise the air filter from inside the servobody.

3 Cut the new air filter in one place with asharp knife, then locate it over the pushrodand push it into the servo body.4 Refit the rubber boot.

23 Brake pedal - removal andrefitting 1

The brake pedal is removed together withthe clutch pedal, and full information on theremoval and refitting procedure will be foundin Chapter 6.


22.1 Vacuum servo unit air filter

1 Rubber boot 2 Air filter

10

Chapter 10Suspension and steering

Front suspensionType:

Rubber cone suspension . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Independent by rubber cone springs and unequal length upper andlower suspension arms

Hydrolastic suspension . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Independent by interconnected Hydrolastic displacers and unequallength upper and lower suspension arms

Rear suspensionType:

Rubber cone suspension . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Independent by rubber cone springs and trailing radius armsHydrolastic suspension . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Independent by interconnected Hydrolastic displacers, trailing radius

arms and coil hold-down springs

SteeringType . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Rack-and-pinionTurns lock-to-lock . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.7Tie-rod balljoints centre-to-centre setting dimension . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1053.0 mmLubricant capacity (see text):

Early models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.2 litreLater models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.1 litre

Lubricant type (see text):Early models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Gear oil, viscosity SAE 90EPLater models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Semi fluid grease

Front hub bearings - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4Front lower suspension arm - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6Front shock absorber (models with rubber cone suspension) -

removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11Front subframe - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13Front subframe mountings - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12Front suspension Hydrolastic displacer unit - removal and refitting . 10Front suspension rubber cone spring - removal and refitting . . . . . . 9Front suspension tie-bar - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7Front swivel hub - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3Front swivel hub balljoints - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5Front upper suspension arm - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1Hydrolastic suspension system - principles of operation . . . . . . . . . 2Rack-and-pinion steering gear - dismantling, inspection and

reassembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28Rack-and-pinion steering gear - lubrication . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29Rack-and-pinion steering gear - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . 27

Rear helper spring (models with Hydrolastic suspension) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18

Rear hub bearings - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14Rear Hydrolastic displacer unit - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . 16Rear radius arm - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19Rear rubber cone spring - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15Rear shock absorber (models with rubber cone suspension) -

removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17Rear subframe - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21Rear subframe mountings - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20Steering and suspension check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1Steering and suspension lubrication . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1Steering column - dismantling and reassembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24Steering column - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23Steering rack rubber gaiter - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26Steering tie-rod outer balljoint - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . 25Steering wheel - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22Tyre condition and pressure checks . . . . . . . . . .See “Weekly Checks”Wheel alignment and steering angles - general information . . . . . . . 30

10•1

Specifications

Contents







54321

Wheel alignment and steering anglesFront wheel:

Toe setting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.58 mm toe-outCastor angle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3º ± 1º positiveCamber angle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2º ± 1º positiveSwivel hub inclination . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9º 30’Trim height (models with Hydrolastic suspension) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 343.0 mm ± 9.5 mm

Rear wheel:Toe setting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.17 mm toe-inCamber angle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.5º to 2.5º positive

RoadwheelsWheel size:

Steel wheels:Standard wheels . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.5B x 10, 4.5J x 10 or 4.5J x 12 according to model“Denovo” wheels . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80.0 x 310.0 mm

Alloy wheels . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5J x 10 or 4.5J x 12 according to model

TyresTyre size . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.20 x 10, 145SR x 10, 145/70SR x 12, 165/70HR x 10 or

155/65SF x 310 (“Denovo”) according to modelTyre pressures . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See “Weekly Checks”

Torque wrench settings Nm lbf ft

Front suspensionDriveshaft retaining nut:

Drum brake models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83 60Disc brake models:

With multiple split pin holes in driveshaft . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 207 150With single split pin hole in driveshaft . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 255 to 270 188 to 200

Swivel hub balljoint domed nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 102 75Swivel hub balljoint to suspension arm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54 40Tie-rod to subframe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 22Tie-rod to suspension arm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26 19Upper suspension arm pivot shaft nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72 53Lower suspension arm pivot bolt nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 33

Rear suspensionRear hub retaining nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 81 60Radius arm pivot shaft nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72 53

SteeringSteering column lower clamp pinch-bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 12Steering column upper clamp . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19 14Steering rack U-bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 11Tie-rod balljoint nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 22Steering wheel nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47 35Steering rack tie-rod ball housing collar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52 38

RoadwheelsRoadwheel nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 63 45


The front and rear suspension assembliesand associated components are mounted onsubframes which are bolted to the undersideof the bodyshell. The subframes are of weldedall-steel construction, the front subframe alsoproviding mounting points for theengine/transmission assembly.

The front suspension on all Mini models isof the independent type, each side consistingof an upper and lower suspension arm. Thelower arm is supported in rubber bushes at itsinner end, while the inner end of the upper

arm pivots on two caged needle rollerbearings. The outer ends of the twosuspension arms are bolted to the taperedshanks of the swivel hub balljoints. Fore-and-aft movement of each front suspensionassembly is controlled by a tie-bar bolted atone end to the lower suspension arm andmounted at the other end, via rubber bushes,to the subframe. The swivel hubs containtapered roller or ball bearings which supportthe outer ends of the driveshafts, and alsoprovide mounting points for the drum brakebackplate or disc brake calipers. Suspensionand steering movement of the swivel hubs iscatered for by adjustable balljoints.

The rear suspension on all models is alsoindependent by means of two trailing radius

arms. The forward end of each radius armcontains a needle roller bearing and bronzebush, which allows the arm to pivot on a shaftbolted to the subframe. The brake backplateis bolted to the rear end of each radius arm,as is the stub axle which carries the rearwheel hub and bearings.

While all Mini models share the samesuspension component layout, two differenttypes of springing and damping have beenemployed. All models are now equipped withdry suspension, whereby a rubber conespring and telescopic shock absorber arefitted to the suspension assembly at eachwheel. Early Clubman and 1275GT modelswere equipped with Hydrolastic suspension,whereby a displacer unit which combines the

10•2 Suspension and steering

actions of both spring and shock absorber isfitted to each suspension assembly, in placeof the rubber cone. The displacer units areinterconnected front-to-rear on each side ofthe vehicle and are filled with a water-based,non-corrosive fluid under pressure. Theprinciples of operation of the hydrolasticsuspension system are described in detail inSection 2.

The steering gear is of the conventionalrack-and-pinion type with tie-rods connectedto the swivel hub steering arms by tie-rodouter balljoints. Further balljoints on the innerends of the tie-rods are screwed into the rack.The upper splined end of the helically toothedpinion protrudes from the rack housing andengages with the splined end of the steeringcolumn. The pinion spline is grooved and thesteering column is held to the pinion by aclamp bolt which partially rests in the piniongroove.

2 Hydrolastic suspensionsystem - principles ofoperation

Component layoutThe Hydrolastic suspension system

consists of a Hydrolastic unit (known as adisplacer) fitted to the suspension assemblyat each wheel, and two metal pipes whichinterconnect the displacer units on each sideof the vehicle, front to rear. The system isfilled with a water-based, non-corrosiveantifreeze fluid under pressure.

Each displacer consists of a rubber springfitted to the upper part of the unit. This rubberspring is the actual springing and dampingmedium, and is shaped in such a way as togive a progressive rate characteristic similarto the rubber cone spring fitted to non-Hydrolastic Minis. At the lower end of thedisplacer unit a tapered piston, attached to adiaphragm operates within a tapered cylinder.The diaphragm seals off the lower part of thedisplacer and the piston is coupled to thesuspension assembly. Internally the displacerunit is divided into an upper and lowerchamber by a separator plate, which alsocontains the damper valves and a bleed hole.

OperationMovement of the vehicle suspension

actuates the displacer piston, causing fluid tobe displaced through the separator plate andinto the upper chamber either via the bleedhole, if suspension movement is small, orthrough the damper valve if the movement ismore vigorous. This causes the upperchamber to deflect upwards against theresistance of the rubber spring, thus dampingthe suspension movement. In addition to this,fluid in the upper chamber will be displacedvia the transfer pipe to the displacer unitconnected to the other suspension assembly,on the same side of the car. This will cause

the piston in this displacer to movedownwards and act on the suspension,ensuring that the vehicle remains in a levelattitude. In the event of both suspensionassemblies on the same side of the cardeflecting together (ie body roll whencornering), no fluid movement between thetwo displacers will occur and the entire fluidpressure will be applied simultaneously toboth displacer pistons giving a very highresistance to the rolling movement.

As the relative front end weight of the Miniis high, the normal ride attitude of the carwould be tail high, as the partially deflectedfront suspension would transfer fluid to therear suspension, causing it to rise. Toovercome this, non-adjustable coil hold-downsprings are fitted between the chassis andeach rear suspension arm. Thus, fluid istransferred from rear to front and a near levelattitude is maintained.

ServicingThe Hydrolastic system is completely

sealed, and therefore virtually maintenancefree. It is advisable, however, at periodicintervals, to inspect the external condition ofthe displacer units, hoses and pipe unions.Any seepage of fluid from the union betweendisplacer hose and transfer pipe, or from anyother part of the system, will cause the vehiclesuspension to sag on the affected side.

It will be necessary when working oncertain suspension components to remove ordisconnect the displacer units or transferpipes. Before doing this, the system must bedepressurised by a Rover dealer who will havethe equipment required to remove the fluidand evacuate the system. The vehicle can be

driven for short distances at slow speeds (iebelow 30 mph/48 kph) in a depressurisedcondition, providing it is driven carefully. Oncompletion of the work the system must berepressurised, again by a dealer.

The pressure in the system determines thetrim height of the vehicle and this should alsobe checked periodically to ensure that it hasnot altered appreciably. The trim height ismeasured from the centre of the front wheelhub to the top of the wheel arch. It isimportant to ensure that the correct height ismaintained otherwise the steering geometrymay be affected, resulting in uneven tyre wearand insensitive handling.

3 Front swivel hub - removaland refitting 3

Removal1 Working under the wheel arch, undo andremove the single retaining screw and lift outthe upper suspension arm rebound rubber.Position a solid packing piece ofapproximately the same thickness in its place(see illustration).2 Chock the rear wheels then jack up thefront of the car and support it on axle stands(see “Jacking and vehicle support”). Removethe front roadwheel.3 Extract the split pin from the driveshaftretaining nut and, with an assistant firmlydepressing the brake pedal, undo and removethe driveshaft nut using a socket andextension bar. Remove the washer or split-collar, as applicable, located behind the

Suspension and steering 10•3

10

3.1 Fitting a solid packing wedge in place of the suspension rebound rubber

1 Screw 2 Rebound rubber 3 Packing piece

driveshaft nut. Note that on disc brakemodels, the driveshaft retaining nut isextremely tight and it may be beneficial tofabricate a home-made tool to prevent thehub rotating when undoing the nut (seeChapter 8, Section 2).4 On disc brake models, undo and removethe brake caliper retaining bolts. Lift off thecaliper complete with brake pads, and tie itout of the way from a convenient place underthe wheel arch. On models fitted with drumbrakes, clamp the flexible brake hose with aproprietary brake hose clamp or a self-gripping wrench with its jaws suitablyprotected. Now slacken the brake hose union,at the wheel cylinder by half a turn.5 Undo and remove the steering tie-rodballjoint retaining locknut and then release theballjoint tapered shank from the steering armusing a universal balljoint separator (seeillustration).6 Undo and remove the nuts and springwashers securing the swivel hub balljoints tothe upper and lower suspension arms (seeillustration).7 Using the method described in paragraph 5,separate the upper and lower suspensionarms from the tapered shanks of the balljoints. 8 Carefully lift the swivel hub assembly off thetwo suspension arms. At the same time, tapthe centre of the driveshaft, using a soft-facedmallet, until the driveshaft can be withdrawnfrom the rear of the swivel hub assembly.9 On disc brake models, withdraw the swivelhub assembly and then lift off the driving flangeand disc. On models with drum brakes,support the flexible brake hose to avoidstretching it and then rotate the completeswivel hub assembly anti-clockwise to unscrewit from the hose (see illustration). The hub cannow be lifted away and the end of the brakehose protected to prevent dirt ingress. Collectthe copper sealing washer from the end of thehose as the hose is removed. Note that a newwasher will be required for refitting.

Refitting

Models with drum brakes10 Refitting is the reverse sequence toremoval, bearing in mind the following points:a) Ensure that the hub bearing water shield

is in place on the driveshaft CV joint and

positioned approximately 6 mm from theshoulder of the joint.

b) Use a new copper washer on the flexiblebrake hose and ensure that the hose isnot twisted when refitting the swivel hub.Bleed the hydraulic system at theappropriate wheel on completion (seeChapter 9).

c) Tighten all nuts and bolts to the specifiedtorque.

d) Tighten the driveshaft retaining nut to thespecified torque, then tighten the nutfurther to align the split pin holes in thedriveshaft and nut. Secure the nut with anew split pin.

Models with disc brakes11 Refitting is the reverse sequence toremoval, bearing in mind points a and cdetailed in paragraph 10. Additionally, thefollowing procedure must be observed,otherwise it is possible that the split-collarfitted beneath the driveshaft retaining nut willbecome clamped to the shaft before the shaftis fully home in the hub bearings.12 Insert the driveshaft through the swivelhub, but do not fit the split collar. Obtain aplain washer of the dimensions shown (seeillustration). If necessary, make the washerfrom mild steel.

13 Fit the plain washer over the driveshaftend. Fit the driveshaft retaining nut and, usingthe same procedure as for removal to preventthe hub rotating, tighten the nut to thespecified torque to seat the shaft in the hubbearings. Note that there are two differenttorque settings for the driveshaft nut; one fordriveshafts with multiple split pin holes, and ahigher setting for driveshafts with a single splitpin hole. Now remove the nut and washer andsmear engine oil over the driveshaft threads.14 Examine the split-collar, and renew it ifdamaged or worn. Fit the collar and driveshaftretaining nut, and once again tighten it to thespecified torque. Tighten the nut further toalign the split pin holes in the driveshaft andnut, then secure the nut with a new split pin.

4 Front hub bearings - renewal 3Drum brake models1 Remove the swivel hub assembly asdescribed in Section 3.2 With the assembly on the bench, slackenthe brake adjusters, remove the two brakedrum retaining screws and lift off the drum. Ifit is tight, tap it gently using a soft-facedmallet.3 Arrange two wooden blocks approximately250 mm high, on the bench, far enough apartfor the drive flange to lie freely between them,


3.5 Remove the steering tie-rod balljointwith a universal separator

3.6 Remove the lower swivel hub balljointretaining nut

3.12 Details of special washer required forfitting the driveshaft on disc brake models

X = 25 mm Y = 6.5 mm Z = 50 mm3.9 Withdraw the swivel hub from the end

of the driveshaft

An alternative method of releasing theballjoint tapered shank is to refit thelocknut to the balljoint and screw it ontwo or three turns. Using a mediumhammer, sharply strike the end of thesteering arm until the shock separatesthe taper. Now remove the locknut andlift the joint off the arm.

with the brake shoes resting on the top of theblocks. Using a tube or drift of suitablediameter, tap the drive flange out of the hub. Itis likely that the inner race of the outer bearingtogether with the oil seal and the outerbearing distance piece will come away withthe flange (see illustration). If this happens,carefully remove these items from the flangewith the aid of a puller.4 Undo and remove the four bolts securing thebrake backplate to the swivel hub and lift offthe backplate with brake shoes still in position.5 Clean away any surplus grease from thecentre of the hub between the bearings, and

then prise out the two oil seals using ascrewdriver. Note that there is a spacer fittedbetween the rear oil seal and the bearingouter race.6 Using a tube or drift of suitable diametertap out the bearing inner races away from thecentre of the hub. Take care not to lose theballs which will be dislodged as the innerraces are released, and recover the spacer (iffitted) between the two bearings.7 Firmly support the swivel hub in a vice anddrift out the two bearing outer races fromeach side of the hub.8 Clean the bearings and swivel hub

thoroughly using paraffin or a suitable solventand dry with a lint-free rag. Remove any burrsor score marks from the hub bore with a finefile or scraper.9 Examine carefully the bearing inner andouter races, the balls and ball cage for pitting,scoring or cracks, and if at all suspect renewthe bearings. It will also be necessary torenew the oil seals as they will have beendamaged during removal.10 If the old bearings are in a satisfactorycondition and are to be re-used, reassemble theballs to the ball cage, place it in the outer raceand then press the inner race into position.


10

4.3 Exploded view of the front hub components

A Drum brake models B Disc brake models

1 Swivel hub2 Driveshaft3 Water shield4 Inner oil seal5 Oil seal spacer

6 Ball bearing and spacer set7 Taper roller bearing and spacer set8 Outer oil seal9 Distance ring10 Driving flange

11 Thrust washer12 Castellated hub nut13 Wheel stud14 Wheel nut15 Thrust washer

11 Before refitting the bearings to the hub,pack them thoroughly with a high melting-point grease. Do not fill the space betweenthe bearings in the swivel hub with grease.12 Place one of the bearings in position onthe hub with the word THRUST or themarkings stamped on the outer race facingtoward the centre of the hub. Note: Certainlater models are fitted with bearings havinglengthened inner races which butt againsteach other. On these assemblies the bearingspacer is omitted and the bearings are fittedwith the identification markings facing awayfrom the centre of the hub. Using a tube ofsuitable diameter or a drift, press the outerrace into the hub between the vice jaws orvery carefully tap it into position. Ensure thatthe outer race does not tip slightly and bind asit is being fitted. If this happens, the outer racewill crack so take great care to keep it square.Ensure that the bearing seats firmly againstthe shoulder in the centre of the hub whenfitted.13 Now place the bearing spacer in positionand repeat the previous paragraph for thesecond bearing. Note: Some makes ofbearing have lengthened inner races whichbutt against each other. In this case thebearing spacer is no longer needed.14 Tap a new oil seal into place over theouter bearing using a block of wood to keep itsquare. Note that both oil seals are fitted withtheir sealing lips inwards and that the innerseal has a second lip on its innercircumference.15 Refit the split spacer against the innerbearing and tap in the inner oil seal using atube of suitable diameter.16 Refit the brake backplate to the swivelhub and secure with the four retaining bolts,tightened to the specified torque (see Chap-ter 9).17 Place the distance piece over the drivingflange with the chamfer towards the flange.With the inner race of the inner bearingsuitably supported, tap the driving flange intothe bearings. Ensure that the flange enters thedistance piece between the two bearingssquarely, otherwise the bearing inner race willbe dislodged with possible damage to the oilseal.18 The brake drum and its retaining screwscan now be refitted and the complete swivelhub assembly refitted to the car as describedin the Section 3. When refitting the hubassembly, ensure that the water shield on thedriveshaft is packed with grease around itssealing face and positioned 6.35 mm from theend of the shaft. Adjust the brakes asdescribed in Chapter 1 before lowering thecar to the ground.

Disc brake models19 Remove the swivel hub assembly asdescribed in Section 3.20 With the assembly on the bench, lift offthe tapered collar (fitted to certain models)from the front of the outer bearing and then

prise out the two oil seals using a screwdriver.Now lift out the inner bearing spacer, the twotaper roller bearings and the distance piece.21 Using a suitable drift, tap out the twobearing outer races from each side of the hub.22 Thoroughly clean the bearings and swivelhub using paraffin or a suitable solvent anddry with a lint-free rag. Remove any burrs orscore marks from the hub bore with a fine fileor scraper.23 Carefully examine the bearing outer races,the rollers and roller cages for pitting, scoring,or cracks, and if at all suspect renew thebearings. It will also be necessary to renewthe oil seals as they will have been damagedduring removal.24 Begin reassembly by refitting the bearingouter races to the hub, with their smallerdiameter toward the hub centre. Press theouter races into the hub using a tube ofsuitable diameter and a vice, or very carefullytap them into place using a brass drift. Ensurethat the race does not tip slightly and bind asit is being installed. If this happens, the outerrace will crack so take great care to keep itsquare. The outer race must seat firmlyagainst the shoulder in the centre of the hubwhen fitted.25 Pack the two roller bearings with a highmelting-point grease and position them intheir outer races with the distance piece inbetween. 26 Install the two new oil seals with theirsealing lips inwards and use a tube of suitablediameter to tap them fully home. Note thatthere is a spacer fitted behind the inner oilseal and that the inner seal also has a secondlip on its inner circumference.27 Position the tapered collar over the outerbearing (where fitted), and refit the swivel hubassembly to the car as described in Section 3.When refitting the swivel hub, ensure that thewater shield on the driveshaft is packed withgrease around its sealing face and positioned6.35 mm from the end of the shaft.

5 Front swivel hub balljoints -removal and refitting 3

Removal1 Remove the swivel hub assembly asdescribed in Section 3 and mount it firmly in avice, with the balljoint requiring attentionuppermost.2 Remove the rubber dust cover, tap backthe lockwasher, and using a large socket orbox spanner, undo and remove the domedretaining nut.3 Lift off the ball-pin, ball-pin seat, and ifworking on the lower balljoint assembly, theball-pin seat tension spring.4 Lift off the shims located over thelockwasher, then remove the grease nippleand lift away the lockwasher.5 Clean all the components thoroughly and

then carefully inspect the ball-pin, ball-pinseat and domed nut for pitting, score marksor corrosion.6 If the components are worn, a balljointrepair kit, consisting of new ball-pin, ball-pinseat, spring, shims, lockwasher and retainingnut should be obtained from your dealer. If theold parts are in a satisfactory condition theymay be re-used and any slackness that mayhave been previously felt in the joint can betaken up by adjustment of the shim sizes.

Refitting7 Before final reassembly of the balljoint, it isnecessary to determine the correct numberand size of shims required to provide a snugfit of the ball-pin with the domed retaining nutfully tightened. This is done in the followingway.8 Place the lockwasher in position and refitthe grease nipple. Now place all the availableshims over the lockwasher and then refit theball-pin seat, the ball-pin and domed retainingnut. Assemble all the parts without grease atthis stage, and if working on the lower balljointdo not fit the ball-pin seat tension spring.9 Fully tighten the retaining nut and then checkthe movement of the ball-pin. With all theavailable shims fitted, it should be quite slackwith considerable up-and-down movement.10 Using a trial and error process, removethe retaining nut, take out a shim and thenrefit the nut and recheck the movement of theballpin. Continue doing this until it is possibleto move the ball-pin in all directions, withoutbinding, but with slight resistance tomovement being felt.11 Dismantle the joint again, lubricate all theparts with general purpose grease and finallyreassemble the joint. If working on the lowerassembly, the ball-pin seat tension springshould now be fitted (see illustrations).12 Tighten the retaining nut fully, check thatthe ball-pin still moves freely with only slightresistance, and if satisfactory bend up thelockwasher to secure the retaining nut (seeillustrations).13 Refit the rubber dust cover to the balljoint(see illustration) and then refit the swivel hubas described in Section 3.

6 Front lower suspension arm- removal and refitting 3

Removal1 Working under the wheel arch, undo andremove the single retaining screw and lift outthe upper suspension arm rebound rubber.Position a solid packing piece ofapproximately the same thickness in its place(see illustration 3.1).2 Chock the rear wheels then jack up thefront of the car and support it on axle stands(see “Jacking and vehicle support”). Removethe front roadwheel.


3 Undo and remove the nut and washersecuring the swivel hub balljoint to the lowersuspension arm. Release the taper of theballjoint shank using a universal balljointseparator, or the alternative methoddescribed in Section 3 paragraph 5.4 Move the lower suspension armdownwards to disengage the balljoint shank.5 Undo and remove the nut and bolt securingthe tie-bar to the suspension arm and thenmove the tie-bar sideways out of the way. 6 Undo and remove the nut and washer fromthe rear of the pivot bolt securing the lowersuspension arm to the subframe (seeillustration).7 Lever the pivot bolt forward and off thesubframe, then lift out the lower suspension arm.

8 Lift the rubber bushes off the suspensionarm and inspect them carefully for swelling,cracks or deterioration of the rubber. Alsoinspect the pivot bolt for wear or damage.Renew any worn components.

Refitting9 Refitting is the reverse sequence toremoval, bearing in mind the following points:a) Ensure that the flat of the pivot bolt head

locates under the tab on the subframe.b) Tighten all nuts and bolts to the specified

torque.c) Do not fully tighten the pivot bolt retaining

nut until the car has been lowered to theground.


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5.11a Fit the lockwasher . . . 5.11b . . . spring . . . 5.11c . . . ball-pin seat . . .

5.12c . . . and fully tighten the nut 5.12d Bend up the lockwasher . . . 5.13 . . . and fit the dust cover

6.6 Lower suspension arm inner mounting

5.11d . . . and shims 5.12a Refit the ball-pin and nut . . . 5.12b . . . screw in the grease nipple . . .

7 Front suspension tie-bar -removal and refitting 2

Removal1 Chock the rear wheels then jack up thefront of the car and support it on axle stands(see “Jacking and vehicle support”). Removethe front roadwheel.2 Undo and remove the locknut securing thefront end of the tie-bar to the subframe (seeillustration). Now lift off the thrustwasher andthe rubber thrust bush.3 Undo and remove the bolt, nut and springwasher securing the other end of the tie-bar tothe lower suspension arm. Disengage the tie-bar from the suspension arm and subframe,then lift it off the car. Slide the remainingrubber thrust bush off the tie-bar end.4 Carefully inspect the tie-bar thrust bushesfor swelling, compression damage ordeterioration of the rubber and check the tie-bar for straightness and elongation of themounting bolt holes. Also check the securingbolt for wear of its shank. If any of thecomponents are defective a new tie-bar kitshould be obtained from your local dealer.


8 Front upper suspension arm- removal and refitting 4

Note: Before carrying out this operation oncars fitted with Hydrolastic suspension, it willbe necessary to have the Hydrolastic systemdepressurised by a Rover dealer. If working oncars equipped with rubber cone suspension,Rover special tool 18G574B will be required tocompress the rubber cone.

Removal1 Chock the rear wheels then jack up thefront of the car and support it on axle stands(see “Jacking and vehicle support”). Removethe front roadwheel.

2 Undo and remove the nut and washersecuring the swivel hub balljoint to the uppersuspension arm. Release the taper of theballjoint shank using a universal balljointseparator, or the alternative methoddescribed in Section 3, paragraph 5.

Models with Hydrolastic suspension3 Undo and remove the single retainingscrew and lift out the upper suspension armrebound rubber.4 Lift up the rubber dust cover around theknuckle joint located on the top of the uppersuspension arm. Withdraw the ball end of theknuckle joint from its seat in the upper armand then prise the shank of the knuckle jointout of the displacer unit using a screwdriver.The shank of the knuckle joint is a simplepush fit in the displacer unit; however,corrosion may make it initially tight to remove.Recover the spacer (where fitted) from theshank.

Models with rubber cone suspension5 Undo and remove the nut and flat washersecuring the shock absorber to the uppersuspension arm. Now move the shockabsorber sideways until it is clear of themounting stud.6 Working in the engine compartment, undoand remove the two bolts (or nuts) securingthe subframe tower to the bulkhead

crossmember. Lift off the locking plate andthen refit the bolts (or nuts). On later modelsundo and remove the large hexagon-headedplug that is used instead of the two bolts ornuts (see illustration).7 It is now necessary to compress the rubbercone spring using service tool 18G574B asfollows. Position the body of the tool over thetwo subframe tower retaining bolts (or nuts)and turn the tool centre screw, nine completeturns, to engage the threads in the rubbercone. Now turn the ratchet handle of the tooluntil it contacts the tool body. Hold the centrescrew and turn the ratchet handle clockwiseuntil all tension is removed from the strutwhich interconnects the rubber cone and theupper suspension arm (see illustration).8 Undo and remove the single retainingscrew and lift out the upper suspension armrebound rubber.9 Lift up the rubber dust cover around theknuckle joint located at the base of the springstrut.10 Withdraw the ball end of the knuckle jointfrom its seat in the upper arm and then lift outthe spring strut assembly from the rubbercone. If it is tight, prise it out using ascrewdriver (see illustration).

All models11 Undo and remove the nut and springwasher from each end of the upper arm pivotshaft.12 Undo and remove the two nuts, bolts andspring washers securing the pivot shaft thrustcollar retaining plate, thrust collar and sealand then withdraw the pivot shaft forward andout of the upper suspension arm.


7.2 Tie-bar front mounting 8.6 Subframe tower mounting bolt fitted tolater models

8.7 Use of special tool to compress rubbercone spring

8.10 Suspension strut removal - rubbercone spring suspension

A Upper suspension armB Upper swivel hub balljoint

13 Now take out the rear thrust collar andseal and then manipulate the upper arm out ofthe subframe.14 With the upper arm removed, inspect thepivot shaft and the needle roller bearings forwear, and if necessary renew them. Theneedle roller bearings can be removed fromthe upper arm by tapping them out of eachside using a long thin drift inserted throughthe other side. Press in new bearings using avice, or drift them in using a tube of suitablediameter or a shouldered mandrel. Ensurethat the marked ends of the bearings faceoutwards.15 Also carefully inspect the ball end of theknuckle joint and its plastic cup seat in theupper arm. If the ball end is corroded, worn orpitted or if the plastic cup seat is cracked orworn, renew the joint. The plastic cup seatcan be removed by prising out with ascrewdriver. The new knuckle joint will besupplied fully assembled and the plastic cupseat can be fitted to the arm with the joint inthis condition. The rubber dust cover and ballend will then have to be removed to allowrefitment of the upper arm.

Refitting16 Refitting is the reverse sequence toremoval bearing in mind the following points:a) Lubricate all parts with general purpose

grease during reassembly.b) If the original knuckle joint is being

refitted, pack the cup seat withDextragrease Super GP (or a suitablealternative) available from Rover dealers.

c) Ensure that the dust cover is correctlylocated over the knuckle joint cup, whenrefitting, otherwise dirt and road grit willenter the joint.

d) Ensure that all nuts and bolts aretightened to the specified torque.

e) On models with Hydrolastic suspension,do not drive the car (except to yournearest Rover dealer) until the system hasbeen repressurised.

9 Front suspension rubbercone spring - removal andrefitting 4

Removal1 Remove the front upper suspension arm asdescribed in Section 8.2 The service tool (18G574B) used tocompress the rubber cone must now bereleased by turning the ratchet anti-clockwiseuntil all tension in the rubber cone is released.3 Unscrew the service tool and withdraw therubber cone from its location in the subframe.


10 Front suspensionHydrolastic displacer unit -removal and refitting

4Removal1 Remove the front upper suspension arm asdescribed in Section 8.2 Using two large spanners, undo andremove the displacer hose from the transferpipe union on the engine compartmentbulkhead.3 Push the displacer unit upward, undo andremove the two screws securing the displacerretaining bracket to the subframe tower.4 Rotate the displacer anti-clockwise andwithdraw it from its location on the subframe.

Refitting5 Refitting is the reverse sequence toremoval. When installing the displacer, rotateit clockwise to engage the registers on thelocating plate.

11 Front shock absorber (modelswith rubber cone suspension)- removal and refitting

2Removal1 Chock the rear wheels then jack up thefront of the car and support it on axle stands(see “Jacking and vehicle support”). Removethe front roadwheel.2 Undo and remove the shock absorberupper and lower retaining nut and washersand lift off the shock absorber (seeillustrations).3 Examine the shock absorber for leaks ordamage of the outer casing. Hold the shockabsorber upright and fully compress and extendit six times. Now slowly extend and compress itagain. If “dead” areas are apparent, if there isfree travel when changing direction, or if the unitis damaged or leaking, it must be renewed.

Refitting4 Refitting is the reverse sequence to removal.Hold the shock absorber in an upright positionand fully compress and extend it six times toexpel any air before fitting.

12 Front subframe mountings -renewal 3

Note: The following information is applicableto later models equipped with bonded rubbermountings between the front subframe andvehicle underbody. The mountings can berenewed with the subframe in position asfollows.

Front mountings1 Chock the rear wheels then jack up thefront of the car and support it on axle stands(see “Jacking and vehicle support”).2 Support the subframe with a jack on theside to be released. 3 Undo and remove the nut and bolt securingthe mounting to the subframe and the nut andbolt securing the mounting to the body (seeillustration). 4 Undo and remove the two nuts and boltssecuring the subframe to the rear mounting. 5 Lower the jack slightly, lever the subframerearwards, and extract the front mounting.Collect any shims that may be fitted betweenthe mounting and the subframe.


10

11.2a Shock absorber upper . . . 11.2b . . . and lower mounting

12.3 Front subframe mountings

1 Front mounting2 Mounting-to-subframe retaining bolt3 Mounting-to-body retaining bolt4 Rear mounting-to-subframe retaining bolts

6 Refitting is the reverse sequence toremoval. With the mounting attached to thebody, it is important to measure the gapbetween the rear of the mounting and thesubframe, and then to select an appropriatenumber of shims of the same thickness forfitting in the gap. The shims are slotted andsquare in shape, and are 1.32 mm thick. Theyare located over the mounting bolt shanks.

Rear mounting 7 Chock the rear wheels then jack up thefront of the car and support it on axle stands(see “Jacking and vehicle support”).8 Support the subframe with a jack on theside to be released. 9 Undo and remove the two nuts and boltssecuring the subframe to the mounting.10 Lift up the carpets inside the car and havean assistant hold the two bolts securing themounting to the body. Undo and remove thenuts from below and lift off the mounting.11 Refitting is the reverse sequence toremoval.

13 Front subframe - removal andrefitting 4

The front subframe, complete withengine/transmission and all suspensioncomponents still in position, can be removedfrom the car using the procedure described inChapter 2B. With the engine/transmissionlifted off, the suspension components canthen be withdrawn by referring to the relevantSections of this Chapter.

14 Rear hub bearings - renewal 31 Chock the front wheels then jack up the rearof the car and support it on axle stands (see“Jacking and vehicle support”). Remove therear roadwheel, then release the handbrake.

2 Slacken off the brake adjuster, unscrew thetwo brake drum retaining screws and lift offthe drum. If it is tight, tap it gently using a soft-faced mallet.3 By judicious tapping and levering, extractthe hub cap and withdraw the retaining splitpin from the hub securing nut (seeillustration).4 Using a large socket, undo and remove thehub securing nut and thrustwasher. Note thatthe left-hand hub nut has a left-hand threadand the right-hand hub nut has a right-handthread.5 Withdraw the hub from the stub axle usinga hub puller. Alternatively, lever it off usingtwo stout screwdrivers or flat bars.6 With the hub assembly removed from thecar, prise out the rear oil seal, then tap out thetwo bearing inner races using a brass drift.Take care not to lose the balls which will bereleased as the inner races are removed. Oncertain models, taper roller bearings are fittedand the inner races are simply lifted out.


14.3 Exploded view of the rear hub components

A Ball bearing type B Taper roller bearing type

1 Brake drum and retaining screw2 Hub cap3 Hub retaining nut assembly4 Outer ball bearing inner race and spacer

5 Outer taper roller bearing inner race andspacer

6 Outer bearing outer race7 Rear hub8 Inner bearing outer race

9 Inner ball bearing inner race10 Inner taper roller bearing inner race11 Oil seal12 Oil seal installed with lips facing inwards13 Oil seal installed with lips facing outwards

7 Withdraw the distance piece (if fitted)located between the two bearings and thendrive out the two outer races away from thehub centre.8 Thoroughly clean all the parts in paraffin ora suitable solvent and dry with a lint-freecloth.9 Carefully examine the bearing inner andouter races, and the ball cage and balls forscoring, pitting or wear ridges; renew asnecessary. The hub oil seal must be renewedas it will have been damaged during removal.If the bearings are in a satisfactory condition,reassemble the balls and ball cage to theouter race and then press the inner race backinto position.10 Before refitting the bearings remove anyburrs that may be present in the bore of thehub. Use a fine file or scraper.11 Pack the bearings using a generalpurpose lithium based grease and fit theinboard bearing to the hub with the narrowedge of the bearing outer race facing awayfrom the hub centre. Press or tap the bearinginto position, using the outer race only, with atube of suitable diameter until the bearingabuts the shoulder in the hub. Take great careto keep the bearing square as it is installed,otherwise it will jam in the hub bore, and couldcause the outer race, to crack.12 Fit a new oil seal to the rear of the hubwith its lip facing towards the bearing. Onmodels fitted with taper roller bearings, the oilseal lip faces away from the bearing.13 Place the distance piece in position and fitthe outboard bearing into the hub, againensuring that the narrow edge of the bearingouter race faces away from the hub centre.Note: Some makes of plain ball-bearings havelengthened inner races which butt againsteach other. In this case the bearing distancepiece is no longer needed.14 With the bearings installed, refit the hub tothe stub axle and gently tap it home using asoft-faced mallet. Ensure that the stub axlesquarely enters the distance piece betweenthe two bearings.15 Place the thrustwasher over the stub axle,chamfered side toward the bearing, then refitthe securing nut and tighten it to the specifiedtorque. Align the next split pin hole and fit anew split pin.

16 Refit the hub cap, brake drum androadwheel, readjust the brakes (see Chapter 1)then lower the car to the ground.

15 Rear rubber cone spring -removal and refitting 3

Removal1 Chock the front wheels then jack up therear of the car and support it on axle stands(see “Jacking and vehicle support”). Removethe rear roadwheel.2 Support the radius arm using a jack orblock of wood, then undo and remove theshock absorber retaining locknut and washersfrom the arm. Slide the end of the shockabsorber off the radius arm stud then removethe jack and lower the arm as far as it will go.3 Using a screwdriver or thin flat bar, prisethe rear end of the spring strut out of therubber cone (see illustration). Nowdisengage the ball end of the knuckle joint atthe front of the spring strut from its seat andlift the strut off the car.4 The rubber cone spring can now be leveredoff its location in the subframe and withdrawnfrom the car (see illustration).

Refitting5 Before refitting the rubber cone spring, driftthe ball end of the knuckle joint out of itslocation in the spring strut; examine it and its

seat in the radius arm for scoring, corrosionand damage. Renew the complete knucklejoint if worn. If the joint is in a satisfactorycondition, pack the cup seat withDextragrease GP (or a suitable alternative)available from Rover dealers, then refit the ballend of the knuckle joint to the cup seat.Ensure that the rubber dust cover is correctlylocated, otherwise water and grit will enter thejoint.6 The remainder of refitting is the reversesequence to removal. When refitting theshock absorber, be sure that the spring strutand knuckle joint are properly engaged as theradius arm is raised.

16 Rear Hydrolastic displacerunit - removal and refitting 3

Note: To enable the displacer unit to beremoved it will first be necessary to have theHydrolastic system depressurised by a Roverdealer.

Removal1 Chock the front wheels then jack up therear of the car and support it on axle stands(see “Jacking and vehicle support”). Removethe rear roadwheel.2 Place a block of wood or a jack beneath therear radius arm, then undo and remove thenut, spring and flat washers securing thehelper spring to the radius arm.3 Lower the radius arm as far as it will go.4 Undo and remove the single retainingscrew and lift the bump rubber off thesubframe.5 Disconnect the flexible Hydrolastic hosefrom its union at the rear of the subframe.6 Pull the displacer strut rearwards todisengage the knuckle joint ball from its seat,then withdraw the strut from the displacerunit. 7 Rotate the displacer anti-clockwise and liftit from its location on the subframe.

Refitting8 Before refitting the displacer unit, examinethe knuckle joint ball end (assuming that itwas released from its seat as the strut wasremoved) and seat for scoring, pitting orcorrosion. Renew the complete knuckle joint ifworn. If the joint is in a satisfactory condition,pack the cup seat with Dextragrease GP (or asuitable alternative) available from Roverdealers, then refit the ball end of the knucklejoint to the cup seat. Ensure that the rubberdust cover is correctly located, otherwisewater and grit will enter the joint.9 The remainder of refitting is the reversesequence to removal, bearing in mind thefollowing points:a) When installing the displacer, turn it

clockwise to lock it into the registers onthe subframe locating plate (seeillustration).


10

15.3 Remove the rear rubber cone springstrut . . .

15.4 . . . and rubber cone spring

16.9 Rear Hydrolastic displacer unitseparated from locating plate

A Displacer unitB Locating lugs

C Locating plateD Subframe

b) As the radius arm is lifted to refit thehelper spring, ensure that the strutcorrectly locates in the knuckle joint anddisplacer.

c) When refitting is complete, have theHydrolastic system repressurised at yournearest Rover dealer.

17 Rear shock absorber (modelswith rubber cone suspension)- removal and refitting

3Removal1 Chock the front wheels then jack up therear of the car and support it on axle stands(see “Jacking and vehicle support”). Removethe rear roadwheel.2 If removing the left-hand shock absorber onSaloon models, or either of the rear shockabsorbers on Cooper S models equipped withtwin fuel tanks, it will first be necessary toremove the fuel tank(s) as described in therelevant Part of Chapter 4.3 Support the radius arm using a jack orblock of wood, then undo and remove theshock absorber retaining locknut and washersfrom the radius arm (see illustration).4 Working inside the car or luggagecompartment, lift off the protective rubbercap, then undo and remove the two locknutsfrom the upper end of the shock absorber(see illustration).5 Lift off the thrustwasher and rubber bush,and then withdraw the shock absorber fromunder the car.6 Examine the shock absorber for leaks ordamage to the outer casing. Hold the shockabsorber upright, and fully compress andextend it six times. Now slowly compress andextend it once more. If “dead” areas areapparent, if there is free travel when changingdirection, or if the unit is damaged or leaking,it must be renewed.

Refitting7 Refitting is the reverse sequence toremoval. Hold the shock absorber in anupright position and fully compress andextend it six times to expel any air beforeinstalling.

18 Rear helper spring (modelswith Hydrolastic suspension)- removal and refitting

3The procedure is the same as described in

Section 17 for removal and refitting of theshock absorber.

19 Rear radius arm - removaland refitting 3

Note: Before carrying out this operation oncars fitted with Hydrolastic suspension, it willbe necessary to have the Hydrolastic systemdepressurised by a Rover dealer.

Removal1 Remove the rear shock absorber asdescribed in Section 17 if working on vehiclesfitted with rubber cone suspension, or the rearhelper spring (Section 18) if Hydrolasticsuspension is fitted.2 Lower the radius arm as far as it will go.When working on vehicles fitted with rubbercone suspension, extract the spring strut fromthe cone spring. Then pull the strut rearwards,to disengage the ball end of the knuckle jointfrom its cup seat in the radius arm. IfHydrolastic suspension is fitted, pull thedisplacer strut rearwards to disengage thestrut from the knuckle joint (or the ball end ofthe knuckle joint from its seat) and then movethe strut forwards and out of the displacerunit.

3 Undo and remove the retaining screws andlift off the finisher panel from the end of thebody side sills (where fitted).4 On models fitted with Hydrolasticsuspension, undo and remove the retainingscrew and lift off the bump rubber from thesubframe.5 Clamp the flexible brake hose, located overthe top of the radius arm, with a brake hoseclamp or self-gripping wrench with jawssuitably protected. Now undo the union nutsecuring the metal pipe to the hose and undoand remove the nut securing the hose to itsbracket. Plug the ends of the hose and pipeafter removal to prevent dirt ingress.6 Extract the split pin and withdraw the clevispin securing the end of the handbrake cableto the brake operating lever. Detach the cableand tension spring from the bracket at therear of the brake backplate. 7 The handbrake cable moving sector issecured to the front of the radius arm either bya through-bolt and lower locknut, or by anupper retaining spire clip, thrustwasher andspring washer. In the case of the through-bolt,undo and remove the lower locknut and thenremove the sector from the bolt. Take care notto lose the small distance tube from the centreof the sector (see illustration). If the sector isretained by a spire clip, prise the clip off theupper end of the pivot pin, lift off the washersand then withdraw the sector and pivot fromthe radius arm.8 From underneath the car undo and removethe radius arm pivot shaft inner retaining nutand spring washer. Undo and remove thepivot shaft outer retaining nut and washer.9 Undo and remove the four bolts securingthe radius arm outer bracket to the subframe.Note that two of these bolts can only beremoved using a socket and extension or boxspanner inserted between the radius arm andsubframe or bracket (see illustration). Liftaway the bracket.10 Carefully lift the radius arm off thesubframe, taking care not to lose thethrustwashers and rubber seal fitted at eachend of the radius arm pivot shaft.11 If there is any doubt about the condition ofthe radius arm pivot bearings, they should beinspected as follows.


17.3 Remove the shock absorber lower . . . 17.4 . . . and upper mounting

19.7 The small distance piece is fitted tothe handbrake moving sector

19.9 Rear radius arm outer bracketretaining bolts (subframe shown removed)

12 Lift off the rubber seal and thrustwasherfrom each end of the pivot shaft and thenslide the pivot shaft out of the bearings (seeillustrations).13 Wipe away all traces of grease from thepivot shaft and the bearings, and carefullyinspect these components. Signs of wear willbe most obvious on the pivot shaft in the formof scoring, pitting, wear, ridges ordeterioration of the surface hardening. If anyof these conditions are apparent, the shaftand bearings require renewal.14 The removal and refitting of both thebearings, and the line reaming of the bronzebearing to suit the outside diameter of thepivot shaft, entails the use of several specialtools. As there is no other way of satisfactorilycarrying out this work, it is stronglyrecommended that the arm is taken to aRover dealer for the complete bearingremoval, refitting and reaming to be carriedout.

Refitting15 Refitting is the reverse sequence toremoval bearing in mind the following points:a) When refitting the ball end of the knuckle

joint to the seat in the radius arm, packthe cup seat with Dextragrease GP (or asuitable alternative) available from Roverdealers.

b) Bleed the hydraulic system at thedisconnected side as described inChapter 9.

c) When refitting is complete, have theHydrolastic system repressurised at yournearest Rover dealer.

20 Rear subframe mountings -renewal 3

Note: The subframe front and rear mountingsand rubber bushes can be renewed with thesubframe still in position in the car asdescribed below.

Front mounting1 Remove the relevant radius arm assemblyfrom the car as described in Section 19.

2 Undo and remove the nut and washersecuring the support bolt to the subframe.3 Undo and remove the two bolts and springwashers securing the mounting to the body.4 Lever the subframe down slightly and lift offthe mounting assembly.5 The support bolt and rubber bushes cannow be removed from the mounting.6 Refitting is the reverse sequence toremoval, noting that the step in the mountingand the short bolt must be at the top (whereapplicable).

Rear mounting7 Chock the front wheels then jack up therear of the car and support it on axle stands(see “Jacking and vehicle support”). Removethe rear roadwheel.8 Undo and remove the nut and washersecuring the mounting to the subframe.9 On Estate, Van and Pick-up models, undoand remove the two bolts securing themounting to the body. On Saloon modelshave an assistant hold the bolts from insidethe luggage compartment while the retainingnuts are removed from below.10 Lever the subframe down slightly andslide the mounting assembly sideways and offthe subframe.11 The rubber bushes can now be removedfrom the mounting.12 In all cases, refitting is the reversesequence to removal, noting that the step inthe mounting and the short bolt must be at thefront.

21 Rear subframe - removal andrefitting 3

Note: Corrosion of the rear subframe is acommon occurrence on Minis, particularlyolder models, and is one of the main causes ofMOT test failure on these cars. Wherecorrosion has reached an advanced stage,renewal of the subframe is the onlysatisfactory cure. Despite its reputation forbeing an extremely difficult task, removal ofthe rear subframe is in fact a fairlystraightforward operation. Before carrying outthis work on cars fitted with Hydrolasticsuspension, it will be necessary to have thesystem depressurised by a Rover dealer.

Removal1 Chock the front wheels then jack up therear of the car and support it on axle stands(see “Jacking and vehicle support”).2 Where the battery positive lead is routedthrough the subframe, disconnect thenegative, then the positive lead from thebattery terminals and pull the positive leadclear of the frame, noting its routing forreference when refitting.3 On early models undo and remove the twoadjusting nuts securing the ends of the twohandbrake cables to the trunnion on thehandbrake lever (see illustration). Pull thecables out of the trunnion and then slide offthe washers and tension spring. Note: Onlater models a single front cable is used andthe tension springs are omitted.4 Lift up the carpets to expose the cableguide plates located at the point where thecable passes through the floor.5 Engage the help of an assistant to hold thenuts from underneath the car while the cableguide retaining screws are removed fromabove (see illustrations). Lift off the guidesand sealing pads, and from underneath thecar, pull the ends of the cable through theopening in the floor and out of the passengercompartment.6 Remove the brake master cylinder reservoirfiller cap and place a piece of polythene over


10

19.12a Lift off the radius arm bearingrubber seal . . .

19.12b . . . and thrustwasher . . . 19.12c . . . then slide out the pivot shaft

21.3 Remove the handbrake cableadjusting nuts

the filler neck, then refit the cap. This will helpprevent fluid loss when the rear pipes aredisconnected.7 From underneath the rear of the car, undoand remove the brake hydraulic pipe unionfrom the centre of the pressure regulating valveon early models. On models equipped with adual circuit braking system, unscrew the pipeunions at the pipe connectors on each side ofthe subframe front crossmember. On later dualcircuit systems unscrew the pipe union fromthe three-way connector on the rear subframe.

8 Refer to Chapter 4C if necessary andremove the complete exhaust system fromthe car.9 If an electric fuel pump is fitted, disconnectthe electrical leads, slacken the clips anddetach the fuel inlet and outlet hoses from thepump.

Warning: Refer to theprecautions contained inChapter 4A, Section 1 beforecarrying out any work on the

fuel system.

Note: During this operation, clamp the hosesusing a self-gripping wrench with suitablyprotected jaws to prevent loss of fuel. Plugboth hoses with a bolt or suitable metal rodupon removal.10 On models fitted with Hydrolasticsuspension, undo and remove the transferpipe unions from the pressure valves at therear of the subframe.11 Place a block of wood under the rear wheelsor jack up the radius arms slightly. From insidethe car or luggage compartment, undo andremove the shock absorber upper mounting onmodels with rubber cone suspension, or thehelper spring upper mounting on models withHydrolastic suspension. On Saloon cars, it willbe necessary to detach the fuel tank retainingstrap and move the tank slightly to provideaccess to the left-hand mounting.12 Undo and remove the retaining screwsand lift off the finisher panels from each end ofthe body side sills (where fitted).13 Place a jack under each side of thesubframe, or a trolley jack in the centre, with asubstantial plank of wood runningtransversely across the subframe, and justtake the weight of the frame on the jacks.


21.5a Hold the cable guide retaining nutsfrom below . . .

21.5b . . . and unscrew from above

21.14 Exploded view of the front and rear subframe assemblies

1 Front subframe2 Rear subframe3 Screw4 Washer5 Bolt

6 Washer7 Packing piece8 Washer9 Nut10 Screw

11 Washer12 Pressure pad13 Support pin14 Bush15 Mounting

16 Washer17 Nut18 Screw19 Screw20 Washer

21 Screw22 Washer23 Bracket24 Nut25 Washer

14 Undo and remove the two bolts securingeach of the four subframe mountings to thebody (see illustration). If the bolts are tight,use liberal amounts of penetrating oil on themand allow time for the oil to soak.15 With the mounting bolts removed, engagethe help of an assistant to steady thesubframe and then slowly lower the jacks untilthe subframe can be withdrawn from the rearof the car.16 With the subframe removed from the car itcan now be completely dismantled byreferring to the relevant Sections andChapters of this manual.

Refitting17 Refitting is the reverse sequence toremoval, bearing in mind the following points:a) Line up the subframe mountings and fit

the bolts finger tight first, beforeprogressively tightening.

b) Bleed the complete hydraulic system oncompletion as described in Chapter 9.

c) On models fitted with Hydrolasticsuspension, have the systemrepressurised at your nearest Roverdealer.

22 Steering wheel - removal andrefitting 1

Removal1 Depending on model, either undo andremove the retaining screws and lift off thetrim, or carefully prise up the steering wheelcentral motif (see illustration).2 Using a suitable socket or box spanner,undo and remove the nut which retains thewheel on the steering column.3 Recover the retaining nut lockwasher andthen lift the steering wheel off the splines onthe column.

Refitting4 Make sure that the roadwheels are in thestraight-ahead position and that the smalltriangle on the direction indicator switch bush

is pointing toward the horn push (later modelsonly).5 Refit the steering wheel to the column withthe wheel spokes centralised.6 Refit the lockwasher and retaining nut, thentighten the nut to the specified torque.7 Refit the trim or central motif.

23 Steering column - removaland refitting 2

Removal1 Disconnect the battery negative lead.2 Undo and remove the screws securing thetwo halves of the steering column shroud tothe column and lift off the shroud.3 Disconnect the electrical wiring multiplugconnectors located under the parcel shelf(see illustration).4 At the base of the column, undo andremove the pinch-bolt securing the innercolumn clamp to the pinion shaft.5 Undo and remove the upper columnsupport clamp bolt at the parcel shelf. Onlater models where a shear bolt is used, cut aslot in the bolt and use a screwdriver tounscrew it, or drill a small hole and remove itwith a stud extractor.6 Position the roadwheels in the straight-ahead position, pull the column upwards andremove it from the car.

Refitting7 Make sure that the roadwheels are still inthe straight-ahead position.8 Lift up the front carpets and slacken thesteering rack U-bolt locknuts sufficiently toallow sideways movement of the rack housing. 9 Slacken the upper column support clampmounting bracket bolts, to allow movement ofthe bracket.10 Lift out the rubber grommet in thepassenger side floor, then remove the plasticplug from the rack housing. Insert a 6 mmdiameter centralising pin (a bolt or drill bit areideal) into the hole (see illustration). Move


10

22.1 Prise up the central motif for accessto the steering wheel nut on later models

23.3 Steering column removal

1 Column shroud retaining screw2 Column shroud halves3 Multi-plug connectors

4 Pinch-bolt5 Upper column support clamp bolt6 Steering column

23.10 Use of a dowel to centralise thesteering rack

Inset shows plastic plug

If the wheel is tight, tap it upnear the centre, using thepalm of your hand, or twist itfrom side to side, whilst

pulling upwards to release it from theshaft splines.

the rack sideways slightly until the pin fullyengages with the hole in the rack, thuscentralising the assembly. Engage thesteering inner column clamp with the pinionshaft ensuring that the steering wheel spokesare horizontal/centre spoke vertical.11 Refit the column clamp bolt and thenremove the centralising pin. Refit the plasticplug and grommet.12 Refit the upper column support clampbolt, using a new shear bolt on later models.Ensure that there is no twist or strain on thecolumn as the bolt is inserted. Reposition theclamp and bracket if necessary. 13 The remainder of the refitting procedurenow varies according to model year asdescribed below.

Models with single stalk multi-function switch14 Tighten the steering column clamp andbracket retaining bolts and the steering rackU-bolt locknuts to the specified torque.15 Reconnect the electrical multiplugs underthe parcel shelf.16 Adjust the direction indicator switchcancelling stud so that it just trips the switchlevers as the wheel is turned.17 With the roadwheels in the straight aheadposition and the steering column installed, thedirection indicator stalk should be at 20º to thehorizontal, with the cancelling levers of theswitch (see illustration). If this is not the case,slacken the steering column support bracketclamp and rotate the column as necessary.18 Refit the steering column shrouds and thecarpets, then reconnect the battery.

Models with twin stalk multi-functionswitch19 Position the outer column to give 2 mmclearance between the steering wheel hub andthe boss of the multi-function switch, thentighten the shear bolt until the head breaks off.20 Reconnect the electrical multiplugs underthe parcel shelf.

21 Refit the steering column shrouds and thecarpets, then reconnect the battery.

24 Steering column -dismantling and reassembly 3

Dismantling1 With the steering column removed from thecar as described in Section 23, remove thesteering wheel as described in Section 22.2 Undo and remove the retaining screws andwithdraw the multi-function switch from thecolumn.3 On early models, undo and remove thedirection indicator cancelling stud and locknutfrom the inner column.4 The inner column can now be withdrawnfrom the lower end of the outer column tube.Before doing this insert the ignition key intothe switch and turn it to the I position. This willrelease the steering lock and allow the innercolumn to be removed.5 Prise the top bush out of the column ifnecessary using a screwdriver. The lower feltbush is removed by simply sliding it out of theouter column.6 To remove the steering lock/ignition switch,drill out the shear bolt heads, or alternativelydrill a hole in the shear bolts and unscrewthem using a stud extractor (see illustration).The clamp plate and lock switch assemblycan then be removed.7 With the steering column assemblydismantled, check the inner and outer columnfor straightness by rolling them on a flat surface.Renew the parts if distortion is obvious.

Reassembly8 Begin reassembly by lubricating the upperpolythene bush with graphite grease. Insertthe bush into the top of the outer column,

chamfered end first. Tap the bush fully intoposition, ensuring that the shouldered slotengages with the detent in the outer column.9 Insert the inner column into the lower end ofthe outer column and slide it in approximatelyhalf way.10 Soak the lower felt bush in engine oil andthen wrap it around the inner column until itsends are butted together. Now carefully slidethe inner column fully home.11 Refit the multi-function switch assembly,and on early models the direction indicatorcancelling stud and locknut.12 Refit the steering lock ignition switchusing new shear bolts. Do not shear the headsoff the bolts until the steering column hasbeen refitted and the operation of the steeringlock tested.13 Refit the steering column to the car asdescribed in Section 23 then, when the columnis correctly positioned in relation to the steeringgear, refit the steering wheel (Section 22).

25 Steering tie-rod outerballjoint - removal andrefitting 3

Removal1 Chock the rear wheels then jack up thefront of the car and support it on axle stands(see “Jacking and vehicle support”). Removethe front roadwheel.2 Slacken the locknut securing the balljoint tothe steering tie-rod by a quarter of a turn.3 Undo and remove the balljoint shank locknutand separate the taper of the shank using auniversal balljoint separator or the alternativemethod described in Section 3, paragraph 5.4 Hold the steering tie-rod with a self-gripping wrench and unscrew the balljointfrom the tie-rod, counting the number of turnsnecessary to remove it.


23.17 Correct position of clamp bolt and direction indicator leverwhen refitting the early type steering column

A RHD models B LHD models C = 20ºA Multiplug

connector2 Shear bolts 3 Steering

lock/ignition switch

24.6 Steering lock/ignition switch assembly

Refitting5 Screw the new balljoint onto the tie-rod bythe same number of turns as counted duringremoval.6 Clean the taper surfaces then fit theballjoint shank to the steering arm. Refit andtighten the shank locknut to the specifiedtorque.

7 Tighten the locknut securing the balljoint tothe steering tie-rod8 Refit the roadwheel and lower the car to theground.9 On completion, have the front wheel toesetting checked (see Section 30).

26 Steering rack rubber gaiter -removal and refitting 3

RemovalNote: Should the rubber gaiters at each endof the steering rack become damaged, split orshow any other signs of deterioration, theymust be renewed immediately, otherwise thelubricant will be lost from the rack unit, andwater and road grit will enter the assembly,causing rapid internal wear. 1 Remove the steering tie-rod outer balljointas described in Section 25.2 Mark the position of the locknut on the tie-rod so that it can be refitted in the sameplace, then unscrew it from the tie-rod.3 Place a suitable container beneath therubber gaiter to catch any oil that may spillfrom the rack (early models only).4 Undo and remove the two retaining clips orcut off the wire clips, then slide the gaiter offthe rack housing and tie-rod.

Refitting5 Refitting is the reverse sequence toremoval. With the gaiter in position refill therack with the appropriate lubricant, asdescribed in Section 29, before refitting theretaining clips or wire.

27 Rack-and-pinion steeringgear - removal and refitting 4

Note: The rack-and-pinion steering gear issecured to the front floor of the car by U-boltsand locknuts. To enable the steering gear to beremoved, it will be necessary to lower the rearof the front subframe by approximately 76 mmto provide the necessary working clearances.

Removal1 Remove the air cleaner assembly asdescribed in the relevant Part of Chapter 4.2 Undo and remove the nuts and boltssecuring the exhaust pipe-to-manifold clamp.Lift off the clamp. On Cooper S models,remove the complete exhaust system asdescribed in Chapter 4C.3 Undo and remove the bolt securing theengine tie-rod to the side of the cylinderblock.4 Detach the clutch operating lever returnspring, then undo and remove the two boltssecuring the clutch slave cylinder to theflywheel housing. Tie the slave cylinder out ofthe way from a convenient place on thebulkhead.5 Undo and remove the two bolts (or nuts)each side securing the subframe towers to thebulkhead crossmember. On later modelsundo and remove the large hexagon-headedplug used in place of the bolts or nuts.6 Working inside the car, undo and removethe securing screws and lift off the two halvesof the steering column shroud.7 Undo and remove the nut and bolt securingthe inner column clamp to the steering gearpinion shaft.8 Slacken the upper column clamp bolt at theparcel shelf bracket. To do this cut a slot inthe shear bolt head and unscrew it with ascrewdriver.9 Lift the complete steering column upwardsuntil the inner column clamp is disengagedfrom the pinion shaft.10 Lift up the carpets and then undo andremove the four steering rack U-bolt locknuts.11 Chock the rear wheels then jack up thefront of the car and support it on axle stands(see “Jacking and vehicle support”). Removethe front roadwheels.12 From underneath the car, undo andremove the nut and bolt securing the exhaustpipe support to the bracket on the side of thetransmission.13 On manual transmission models fittedwith a remote control gearchange, undo andremove the bolts securing the rear of theremote control housing to the floor. Onautomatic transmission models it should bepossible to lower the subframe sufficiently forremoval of the steering gear withoutdisconnecting the gear selector cable.However, if during subsequent operations thecable appears to be under tension,disconnect it from the transmission asdescribed in Chapter 7B.14 On models with rubber cone suspension,disconnect the front shock absorbers fromthe upper suspension arms.15 Undo and remove the locknuts securingthe steering tie-rod outer balljoint shanks to thesteering arms on the swivel hubs. Release thetapers using a universal balljoint separator orthe alternative method described in Section 3,paragraph 5.

16 Support the subframe securely on jacksand then undo and remove the nuts and boltssecuring the subframe to the rear mountingsor to the floor.17 Slacken the bolt securing the front of thesubframe or subframe mountings to the body.18 Carefully lower the jacks, allowing thesubframe to drop by approximately 76 mm atthe rear.19 Lift off the rack-and-pinion retaining U-bolts and clamp pads and then manoeuvrethe rack assembly out from between thesubframe and body on the driver’s side.

Refitting20 Refitting is the reverse sequence toremoval bearing in mind the following points:a) Do not tighten the U-bolt locknuts until

the upper column is fitted and secure.b) When refitting the upper column to the

pinion shaft and mountings, refer to theprocedure described in Section 23.

28 Rack-and-pinion steeringgear - dismantling, inspectionand reassembly

4Note: It is not possible to make anyadjustments to the rack-and-pinion steeringgear unless it is removed from the car. With itremoved, it is as well to dismantle andexamine the whole unit before making anyadjustments. This will save having to removethe unit again later because of initial non-detection of wear. If wear is very bad it isadvisable to fit an exchange reconditionedunit. It must be pointed out that dismantlingand reassembly of the steering gear is ratherinvolved and may be beyond the scope of theaverage DIY enthusiast. Read through thecomplete Section first to familiarise yourselfwith the procedure and ensure that thenecessary tools and equipment are availablebefore proceeding.

Dismantling1 Mark the position of the locknuts on the tie-rods so that the toe-out is approximatelycorrect on reassembly.2 Slacken the locknuts and, gripping the tie-rods firmly with a self-gripping wrench,unscrew the tie-rod outer balljoints. Nowunscrew the locknuts also.3 If the steering gear is fitted with blackrubber gaiters, it will be filled with oil. If it isfitted with transparent rubber gaiters it will befilled with grease. If working on the oil-filledtype ensure that a container is availablebefore proceeding further.4 Unscrew the clips or cut the wires thatsecure the rubber gaiters to the rack housingand tie-rods. Carefully remove the gaiters,and on oil-filled types, drain the oil from thehousing.5 On inspection it will be seen that the ballhousing at the inner end of each tie-rod issecured to the rack by a locking collar. The


10

If difficulty is experienced intightening the balljoint shanklocknut due to the taperedshank turning in the steering

arm, apply pressure with a jack or longlever to the underside of the balljoint tolock the taper in its conical seat.

locking collar is then peened into a groove inthe ball housing on early models, or retainedby a grooved pin on later types.6 On early models punch or prise up thepeening and then unlock the ball housing andcollar using Rover special tool No 18G1278.Alternatively, use two small Stilson wrenches,but take care not to damage the housing andcollar faces.7 On later models, it is first necessary to drillout the grooved pin. To do this use a 3.97 mmdiameter drill, and drill to a depth of 4 mm. Nowunlock the ball housing and collar using theprocedure described in the previous paragraph.8 Unscrew the ball housing and then lift offthe tie-rod, ball seat and spring from the endof the rack. The locking collar can now beremoved.9 Repeat this procedure for the other tie-rod,noting that if these components are to be re-used they must be refitted to the same side ofthe rack from which they were removed.10 At the base of the pinion housing, undoand remove the two rack damper cover boltsand spring washers. Lift off the damper covertogether with its shims, and then withdraw thethrust spring, yoke, and O-ring seal from therack housing.11 Undo and remove the two bolts and lift offthe pinion end cover together with its gasketand shims.12 Carefully push out the pinion and lowerbearing.13 Withdraw the rack from the pinion end ofthe housing. Note: If the rack is withdrawnfrom the plain end of the housing the rackteeth will damage the support bush.14 Extract the pinion upper bearing from therack housing, followed by the oil seal.15 From the plain end of the rack housing,undo and remove the small retaining screwand then withdraw the rack support bush.

Note: On some models a rivet is used insteadof a screw and this must be carefully drilledout.

Inspection16 Thoroughly clean all the parts withparaffin or a suitable solvent and dry with alint-free cloth. Carefully inspect the teeth onthe rack and the pinion for chipping,roughness, uneven wear, hollows, orfractures. Renew both components if either isbadly worn. 17 Carefully inspect the component parts ofthe inner balljoints for wear or ridging, andrenew as necessary.18 The outer tie-rod balljoints cannot bedismantled, and if worn must be renewed ascomplete assemblies. Examine thecomponent parts of the damper and renewany that show signs of wear. Pay particularattention to the oil seals; as a precautionarymeasure it is always best to renew them.19 The rubber gaiters are particularly proneto damage and it is advisable to renew themas a matter of course.

Reassembly20 Begin reassembly by refitting the racksupport bush to the plain end of the rackhousing. If the original bush is being refitted,align the screw holes in the bush and rackhousing.21 If a new rack support bush is being fitted,drill a 2.7 mm diameter hole into the bush,through the retaining screw hole, to a depthof 10.5 mm (see illustration).22 Apply jointing compound to the threads ofthe support bush retaining screw. Refit andtighten the screw, then check that the bushbore has not distorted. Make sure that thescrew does not break right through the bushinto the bore.

23 Lubricate the upper pinion bearing and fit itinto place in the housing (see illustration). Usethe pinion to push the bearing fully into position.24 Insert the rack into the housing from thepinion end and then refit the pinion, splinedend first.25 Lubricate the lower pinion bearing andplace it in position on the lower end of thepinion shaft.26 Refit the preload shims, using additionalshims if necessary, until the shim pack standsproud of the pinion housing.27 Refit the end cover and retaining boltsand tighten the bolts lightly and evenly until allpinion endfloat is taken up.28 Using feeler blades, measure the gapbetween the end cover and the pinionhousing. Now take off the end cover andremove the appropriate number of shims untila gap of 0.28 to 0.33 mm still remains.29 With the correct shims in position, refit theend cover using a new gasket, and with thebolt threads lightly coated in jointingcompound, tighten them fully.30 Place a new oil seal over the pinion andinsert it into the housing. The seal must befitted with the seal lips toward the pinionbearing and with its top face flush with theend of the housing.31 Lubricate the rack damper yoke and slideit into the housing. Refit the cover plate andretaining bolts, but do not fit the spring at thisstage.32 Tighten the cover plate bolts evenly untilthe rack is lightly clamped by the yoke. Turnthe pinion two or three turns in either directionand check that the rack is not binding in anyposition. If necessary, slacken the cover platebolts slightly to achieve this.33 Take a feeler blade measurement of thegap between the damper cover plate and thehousing and then remove the cover plate.


28.21 Refitting the rack support bush

1 Retaining screw 2 Drill to a depth of 10.5 mm

28.23 Reassembly of the pinion housing

1 Oil seal2 Upper pinion bearing3 Pinion and lower bearing4 Preload shims

5 End cover and retainingbolt

6 RackA = 0.28 to 0.33 mm

34 Fit a new O-ring seal to the damper yokeand place the spring in position. Add shimsequal to the gap measured between the coverplate and housing plus 0.05 to 0.13 mm. Refitthe cover plate and tighten down the bolts.Turn the pinion through 180º in each directionfrom the centre and make sure there is notightness or binding.35 Screw one of the tie-rod ball housinglocking collars onto the rack as far as it willgo. If the original components are being re-used, make sure that the collar is beingrefitted to the end of the rack from which itwas removed.36 Lubricate the thrust spring and ball seatand then locate them in the end of the rack.Lubricate the tie-rod balljoint and the ballhousing and refit these components.37 Tighten the ball housing until the tie-rodball is clamped and will not move withoutbinding.38 Now slacken the ball housing slightly(approximately one eighth of a turn) until thetie-rod is just free to move. Note: The tie-rodwill still feel stiff to move because of thetension of the thrust spring, but there shouldbe no trace of binding or endfloat.39 Hold the ball housing in this position andscrew the locking collar into contact with it.Tighten the locking collar using the sameprocedure used for removal, making sure thatthe position of the ball housing does not alter.40 If working on early type racks, peen theedge of the locking collar into the groove ofthe ball housing using a small punch.41 On later type racks, protect the rackhousing from swarf and drill a 3.97 mmdiameter hole, 8.0 mm deep, between thelocking collar and ball housing. The hole mustbe drilled on the side facing away from therack teeth and at least 90º away from anyprevious hole. Note: The rack may be drilled amaximum of three times only. With the holedrilled, drive in a new grooved pin and retain itby peening over the edge of the hole.42 Repeat the above procedure for the othertie-rod and ball housing. 43 Refit the rubber gaiter and retaining clipsor wire to the plain end of the rack assembly.44 Stand the assembly upright and fill itthrough the pinion end of the housing with thecorrect quantity and type of lubricant asshown in the Specifications.45 Refit the remaining rubber gaiter and itsretaining clips or wire.46 If the original tie-rods have been refitted,screw on the tie-rod outer balljoint locknuts tothe positions marked during dismantling. Nowscrew on the balljoints and tighten the locknuts.47 If new tie-rods have been fitted, screw onthe locknuts and then screw on the balljoints,by an equal amount each side, until thedimension between their centres is as shownin the Specifications. Tighten the locknuts.48 The steering gear can now be refitted tothe car as described in Section 27. It will benecessary to have the front toe settingchecked and reset as described in Section 30after refitting.

29 Rack-and-pinion steeringgear - lubrication 2

1 The steering gear is filled with lubricantduring manufacture and then sealed.Additional lubricant will only be required inservice if a leak develops, either from therubber gaiters or from any of the joints, or ifthe steering gear has been dismantled.2 The steering gear fitted to early models,identified by black rubber gaiters, is filled withoil. The steering gear fitted to later models,identified by transparent rubber gaiters, isfilled with grease. The grade and quantity oflubricant for both types is given in theSpecifications. 3 Should it be necessary to refill the rack,proceed as follows.4 Jack up the driver’s side of the car andsuitably support it on stands (see “Jackingand Vehicle Support”). Remove the frontroadwheel.5 Centralise the steering gear so that thewheels are in the straight-ahead position.6 Slacken the retaining clips or remove thewire securing the rubber gaiter to the rackhousing and tie-rod. Slide the rubber gaiterdown the tie-rod sufficiently to provideaccess.7 Using an oil can or grease gun filled withthe specified grade and quantity of lubricant,fill the rack housing.8 Refit the rubber gaiter and secure it with theretaining clips or soft iron wire.9 Turn the steering from lock to lock todistribute the lubricant, refit the roadwheeland lower the car to the ground.

30 Wheel alignment andsteering angles - generalinformation

General1 A car’s steering and suspension geometryis defined in four basic settings - all angles areexpressed in degrees (toe settings are alsoexpressed as a measurement); the relevantsettings are camber, castor, swivel hubinclination, and toe-setting. Front wheel toe-setting is readily adjustable but all othersettings are established during manufactureand will not normally require attention. It ispossible to alter the front castor angle byfitting a longer or shorter tie-bar to therelevant side, and to alter the rear wheel toesetting by fitting spacers between the rearradius arm outer brackets and the subframe.Should there be any reason to suspect thatthe front castor angle is incorrect (insensitivesteering, pulling to one side etc) or the rearwheel toe setting is incorrect (excessive reartyre wear) then the settings should bechecked and if necessary altered by a Roverdealer.

Front wheel toe setting -checking and adjustment2 Due to the special measuring equipmentnecessary to accurately check the wheelalignment, and the skill required to use itproperly, checking and adjustment is best leftto a Rover dealer or similar expert. Note thatmost tyre-fitting shops now possesssophisticated checking equipment. Thefollowing is provided as a guide, should theowner decide to carry out a DIY check.3 The front wheel toe setting is checked bymeasuring the distance between the front andrear inside edges of the roadwheel rims.Proprietary toe measurement gauges areavailable from motor accessory shops.Adjustment is made by screwing the tie-rodouter balljoints in or out of their tie-rods, to alterthe effective length of the tie-rod assemblies.4 For accurate checking, the vehicle mustbe at kerb weight, ie unladen and with a fulltank of fuel, and on models with Hydrolasticsuspension, the trim height must be correct(see Section 2).5 Before starting work, check the tyrepressures and tread wear, the condition of thehub bearings, the steering wheel free play,and the condition of the front suspensioncomponents (see Chapter 1). Correct anyfaults found.6 Park the vehicle on level ground, check thatthe front roadwheels are in the straight-aheadposition, then rock the rear and front ends tosettle the suspension. Release the handbrake,and roll the vehicle backwards 1 metre, thenforwards again, to relieve any stresses in thesteering and suspension components.7 Measure the distance between the frontedges of the wheel rims and the rear edges ofthe rims. Subtract the rear measurement fromthe front measurement, and check that theresult is within the specified range.8 If adjustment is necessary, apply thehandbrake, then jack up the front of thevehicle and support it securely on axle stands(see “Jacking and vehicle support”). Turn thesteering wheel onto full-left lock, and recordthe number of exposed threads on the right-hand tie-rod. Now turn the steering onto full-right lock, and record the number of threadson the left-hand side. If there are the samenumber of threads visible on both sides, thensubsequent adjustment should be madeequally on both sides. If there are morethreads visible on one side than the other, itwill be necessary to compensate for thisduring adjustment. Note: It is most importantthat after adjustment, the same number ofthreads are visible on each tie-rod.9 First clean the tie-rod threads; if they arecorroded, apply penetrating fluid beforestarting adjustment. Release the rubbergaiters outboard clips (where necessary), andslide back the gaiters; apply a smear ofgrease to the gaiter seat on the tie-rod, so thatthe gaiters will not be twisted or strained astheir respective tie-rods are rotated.


10

10 Use a straight-edge and a scriber orsimilar to mark the relationship of each tie-rodto its outer balljoint then, holding each tie-rodin turn, unscrew its outer balljoint locknut fully.11 Alter the length of the tie-rods, bearing inmind the note made in paragraph 8. Screwthem into or out of their outer balljoints,rotating the tie-rod using a suitable pair ofgrips or self-locking wrench. Shortening thetie-rods (screwing them into their outerballjoints) will reduce toe-in/increase toe-out.

12 When the setting is correct, hold the tie-rods and securely tighten the outer balljointlocknuts. Count the exposed threads to checkthe length of both tie-rods. If they are not thesame, then the adjustment has not beenmade equally, and problems will beencountered with tyre scrubbing in turns;also, the steering wheel spokes will no longerbe horizontal when the wheels are in thestraight-ahead position.

13 If the tie-rod lengths are the same, lower

the vehicle to the ground and re-check the toe

setting; re-adjust if necessary. When the

setting is correct, securely tighten the outer

balljoint locknuts. Ensure that the rubber

gaiters are seated correctly, and are not

twisted or strained, and secure them in

position with new retaining clips or wire

(where necessary).


11

Chapter 11Bodywork and fittings

Bodywork, paint and exterior trim check . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1Bodywork seam trim strips - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30Bonnet - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13Bonnet lock - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15Bonnet lock release cable - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14Boot lid - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16Boot lid lock - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17Centre console - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28Door, boot and bonnet check and lubrication . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1Door hinge - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8Doors - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7Facia top rail cover - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27Front and rear bumpers - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31Front door exterior handle (Saloon and Estate models) - removal and

refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11Front door glass - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9Front door interior trim panel (Saloon and Estate models) - removal

and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6

Front door lock assembly - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10Front door striker plate - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12Front grille - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1Maintenance - bodywork and underframe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2Maintenance - upholstery and carpets . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3Major structural damage or corrosion - general information . . . . . . . 5Minor body damage - repair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4Rear door lock (Estate and Van models) - removal and refitting . . . . 19Rear doors (Estate and Van models) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . 18Rear door window (Estate and Van models) - removal and refitting . 23Rear quarterlight glass (Saloon models) - removal and refitting . . . . 24Rear side screen window (Estate models) - removal and refitting . . 25Rear window (Saloon and Pick-up models) - removal and refitting . 22Sunroof components - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32Tailgate (Pick-up models) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20Windscreen - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21Wooden facia - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26

11•1

Contents








Although the Mini has been produced inmany forms since its introduction, theprinciple of construction has remained thesame. The body and floor pan are of amonocoque all-steel, welded constructioncreating a very strong and torsionally rigidshell. The front and rear suspensionassemblies are mounted on subframes,bolted to the underside of the bodyshell. Thefront subframe also provides mounting pointsfor the engine/transmission.

Although the Mini bodyshell is extremelystrong, it is likely to have suffered to somedegree, particularly on older models, from theeffects of rust and corrosion. Commonproblem areas are the front wings, body sidesills and the rear subframe. Particularattention should be paid to the rear subframeand areas around its mountings, as well as theside sills, as these are load bearing areas;corrosion here, if left unchecked, couldseriously affect the roadworthiness of thevehicle. The subframes are covered in detail inChapter 10 and full information regarding thetreatment of rust and corrosion and bodyrepairs will be found in subsequent Sectionsof this Chapter.

2 Maintenance - bodywork andunderframe 1

The general condition of a vehicle’sbodywork is the one thing that significantlyaffects its value. Maintenance is easy butneeds to be regular. Neglect, particularly afterminor damage, can lead quickly to furtherdeterioration and costly repair bills. It isimportant also to keep watch on those parts ofthe vehicle not immediately visible, for instancethe underside, inside all the wheel arches andthe lower part of the engine compartment.

The basic maintenance routine for thebodywork is washing preferably with a lot ofwater, from a hose. This will remove all theloose solids which may have stuck to thevehicle. It is important to flush these off insuch a way as to prevent grit from scratchingthe finish. The wheel arches and underframeneed washing in the same way to remove anyaccumulated mud which will retain moistureand tend to encourage rust. Oddly enough,the best time to clean the underframe andwheel arches is in wet weather when the mudis thoroughly wet and soft. In very wetweather the underframe is usually cleaned oflarge accumulations automatically and this isa good time for inspection.

Periodically, except on vehicles with a wax-based underbody protective coating, it is agood idea to have the whole of theunderframe of the vehicle steam cleaned,engine compartment included, so that athorough inspection can be carried out to seewhat minor repairs and renovations arenecessary. Steam cleaning is available atmany garages and is necessary for removal ofthe accumulation of oily grime whichsometimes is allowed to become thick incertain areas. If steam cleaning facilities arenot available, there are one or two excellentgrease solvents available which can be brushapplied; the dirt can then be simply hosed off.Note that these methods should not be usedon vehicles with wax-based underbodyprotective coating or the coating will beremoved. Such vehicles should be inspectedannually, preferably just prior to winter, whenthe underbody should be washed down andany damage to the wax coating repaired usingunderseal. Ideally, a completely fresh coatshould be applied. It would also be worthconsidering the use of such wax-basedprotection for injection into door panels, sills,box sections, etc, as an additional safeguardagainst rust damage where such protection isnot provided by the vehicle manufacturer.

After washing paintwork, wipe off with achamois leather to give an unspotted clearfinish. A coat of clear protective wax polish

will give added protection against chemicalpollutants in the air. If the paintwork sheenhas dulled or oxidised, use a cleaner/polishercombination to restore the brilliance of theshine. This requires a little effort, but suchdulling is usually caused because regularwashing has been neglected. Care needs tobe taken with metallic paintwork as specialnon-abrasive cleaner/polisher is required toavoid damage to the finish.

Always check that the door and ventilatoropening drain holes and pipes are completelyclear so that water can be drained out. Brightwork should be treated in the same way aspaint work. Windscreens and windows can bekept clear of the smeary film which oftenappears by the use of a proprietary glasscleaner. Never use any form of wax or otherbody or chromium polish on glass.

3 Maintenance - upholstery andcarpets 1

Mats and carpets should be brushed orvacuum cleaned regularly to keep them free ofgrit. If they are badly stained remove themfrom the vehicle for scrubbing or spongingand make quite sure they are dry beforerefitting. Seats and interior trim panels can bekept clean by wiping with a damp cloth and aproprietary upholstery cleaner. If they dobecome stained (which can be more apparenton light coloured upholstery) use a little liquiddetergent and a soft nail brush to scour thegrime out of the grain of the material. Do notforget to keep the headlining clean in thesame way as the upholstery. When usingliquid cleaners inside the vehicle do not over-wet the surfaces being cleaned. Excessivedamp could get into the seams and paddedinterior causing stains, offensive odours oreven rot. If the inside of the vehicle gets wetaccidentally it is worthwhile taking sometrouble to dry it out properly, particularlywhere carpets are involved. Do not leave oil orelectric heaters inside the vehicle for thispurpose.

4 Minor body damage - repair 4Repair of minor scratches inbodywork

If the scratch is very superficial, and doesnot penetrate to the metal of the bodywork,repair is very simple. Lightly rub the area ofthe scratch with a paintwork renovator, or avery fine cutting paste, to remove loose paintfrom the scratch, and to clear the surroundingbodywork of wax polish. Rinse the area withclean water.

Apply touch-up paint to the scratch using afine paint brush; continue to apply fine layers

of paint until the surface of the paint in thescratch is level with the surroundingpaintwork. Allow the new paint at least twoweeks to harden: then blend it into thesurrounding paintwork by rubbing the scratcharea with a paintwork renovator or a very finecutting paste. Finally, apply wax polish.

Where the scratch has penetrated rightthrough to the metal of the bodywork, causingthe metal to rust, a different repair techniqueis required. Remove any loose rust from thebottom of the scratch with a penknife, thenapply rust-inhibiting paint, to prevent theformation of rust in the future. Using a rubberor nylon applicator fill the scratch withbodystopper paste. If required, this paste canbe mixed with cellulose thinners, to provide avery thin paste which is ideal for filling narrowscratches. Before the stopper-paste in thescratch hardens, wrap a piece of smoothcotton rag around the top of a finger. Dip thefinger in cellulose thinners, and then quicklysweep it across the surface of the stopper-paste in the scratch; this will ensure that thesurface of the stopper-paste is slightlyhollowed. The scratch can now be paintedover as described earlier in this Section.

Repair of dents in bodyworkWhen deep denting of the vehicle’s

bodywork has taken place, the first task is topull the dent out, until the affected bodyworkalmost attains its original shape. There is littlepoint in trying to restore the original shapecompletely, as the metal in the damaged areawill have stretched on impact and cannot bereshaped fully to its original contour. It isbetter to bring the level of the dent up to apoint which is about 3 mm below the level ofthe surrounding bodywork. In cases where thedent is very shallow anyway, it is not worthtrying to pull it out at all. If the underside of thedent is accessible, it can be hammered outgently from behind, using a mallet with awooden or plastic head. Whilst doing this,hold a suitable block of wood firmly againstthe outside of the panel to absorb the impactfrom the hammer blows and thus prevent alarge area of the bodywork from being“belled-out”.

Should the dent be in a section of thebodywork which has a double skin or someother factor making it inaccessible frombehind, a different technique is called for. Drillseveral small holes through the metal insidethe area - particularly in the deeper section.Then screw long self-tapping screws into theholes just sufficiently for them to gain a goodpurchase in the metal. Now the dent can bepulled out by pulling on the protruding headsof the screws with a pair of pliers.

The next stage of the repair is the removalof the paint from the damaged area, and froman inch or so of the surrounding “sound”bodywork. This is accomplished most easilyby using a wire brush or abrasive pad on apower drill, although it can be done just aseffectively by hand using sheets of abrasive

paper. To complete the preparation for filling,score the surface of the bare metal with ascrewdriver or the tang of a file, oralternatively, drill small holes in the affectedarea. This will provide a really good “key” forthe filler paste.

To complete the repair see the Section onfilling and re-spraying.

Repair of Rust holes or gashesin bodywork

Remove all paint from the affected area andfrom an inch or so of the surrounding “sound”bodywork, using an abrasive pad or a wirebrush on a power drill. If these are notavailable a few sheets of abrasive paper willdo the job just as effectively. With the paintremoved you will be able to gauge the severityof the corrosion and therefore decide whetherto renew the whole panel (if this is possible) orto repair the affected area. New body panelsare not as expensive as most people thinkand it is often quicker and more satisfactoryto fit a new panel than to attempt to repairlarge areas of corrosion.

Remove all fittings from the affected areaexcept those which will act as a guide to theoriginal shape of the damaged bodywork (egheadlight shells etc). Then, using tin snips or ahacksaw blade, remove all loose metal andany other metal badly affected by corrosion.Hammer the edges of the hole inwards inorder to create a slight depression for the fillerpaste.

Wire brush the affected area to remove thepowdery rust from the surface of theremaining metal. Paint the affected area withrust inhibiting paint; if the back of the rustedarea is accessible treat this also.

Before filling can take place it will benecessary to block the hole in some way. Thiscan be achieved by the use of aluminium orplastic mesh, or aluminium tape.

Aluminium or plastic mesh or glass fibrematting is probably the best material to usefor a large hole. Cut a piece to theapproximate size and shape of the hole to befilled, then position it in the hole so that itsedges are below the level of the surroundingbodywork. It can be retained in position byseveral blobs of filler paste around itsperiphery.

Aluminium tape should be used for small orvery narrow holes. Pull a piece off the roll andtrim it to the approximate size and shaperequired, then pull off the backing paper (ifused) and stick the tape over the hole; it canbe overlapped if the thickness of one piece isinsufficient. Burnish down the edges of thetape with the handle of a screwdriver orsimilar, to ensure that the tape is securelyattached to the metal underneath.

Bodywork repairs - filling andre-spraying

Before using this Section, see the Sectionson dent, deep scratch, rust holes and gashrepairs.

11•2 Bodywork and fittings

Many types of bodyfiller are available, butgenerally speaking those proprietary kitswhich contain a tin of filler paste and a tube ofresin hardener are best for this type of repair;some can be used directly from the tube. Awide, flexible plastic or nylon applicator will befound invaluable for imparting a smooth andwell contoured finish to the surface of thefiller.

Mix up a little filler on a clean piece of cardor board - measure the hardener carefully(follow the maker’s instructions on the pack)otherwise the filler will set too rapidly or tooslowly. Using the applicator, apply the fillerpaste to the prepared area; draw theapplicator across the surface of the filler toachieve the correct contour and to level thefiller surface. As soon as a contour thatapproximates to the correct one is achieved,stop working the paste - if you carry on toolong the paste will become sticky and begin to“pick up” on the applicator. Continue to addthin layers of filler paste at twenty-minuteintervals until the level of the filler is just proudof the surrounding bodywork.

Once the filler has hardened, excess can beremoved using a metal plane or file. From thenon, progressively finer grades of abrasivepaper should be used, starting with a 40grade production paper and finishing with 400grade wet-and-dry paper. Always wrap theabrasive paper around a flat rubber, cork, orwooden block - otherwise the surface of thefiller will not be completely flat. During thesmoothing of the filler surface the wet-and-drypaper should be periodically rinsed in water.This will ensure that a very smooth finish isimparted to the filler at the final stage.

At this stage the “dent” should besurrounded by a ring of bare metal, which inturn should be encircled by the finely“feathered” edge of the good paintwork.Rinse the repair area with clean water, until allof the dust produced by the rubbing-downoperation has gone.

Spray the whole repair area with a light coatof primer - this will show up any imperfectionsin the surface of the filler. Repair theseimperfections with fresh filler paste orbodystopper, and once more smooth thesurface with abrasive paper. If bodystopper isused, it can be mixed with cellulose thinnersto form a really thin paste which is ideal forfilling small holes. Repeat this spray andrepair procedure until you are satisfied thatthe surface of the filler, and the featherededge of the paintwork are perfect. Clean therepair area with clean water and allow to dryfully.

The repair area is now ready for finalspraying. Paint spraying must be carried outin a warm, dry, windless and dust freeatmosphere. This condition can be createdartificially if you have access to a large indoorworking area, but if you are forced to work inthe open, you will have to pick your day verycarefully. If you are working indoors, dousingthe floor in the work area with water will help

to settle the dust which would otherwise be inthe atmosphere. If the repair area is confinedto one body panel, mask off the surroundingpanels; this will help to minimise the effects ofa slight mis-match in paint colours. Bodyworkfittings (eg chrome strips, door handles etc)will also need to be masked off. Use genuinemasking tape and several thicknesses ofnewspaper for the masking operations.

Before commencing to spray, agitate theaerosol can thoroughly, then spray a test area(an old tin, or similar) until the technique ismastered. Cover the repair area with a thickcoat of primer; the thickness should be builtup using several thin layers of paint ratherthan one thick one. Using 400 grade wet-and-dry paper, rub down the surface of the primeruntil it is really smooth. While doing this, thework area should be thoroughly doused withwater, and the wet-and-dry paper periodicallyrinsed in water. Allow to dry before sprayingon more paint.

Spray on the top coat, again building up thethickness by using several thin layers of paint.Start spraying in the centre of the repair areaand then, with a single side-to-side motion,work outwards until the whole repair area andabout 50 mm of the surrounding originalpaintwork is covered. Remove all maskingmaterial 10 to 15 minutes after spraying onthe final coat of paint.

Allow the new paint at least two weeks toharden, then, using a paintwork renovator or avery fine cutting paste, blend the edges of thepaint into the existing paintwork. Finally, applywax polish.

Plastic componentsWith the use of more and more plastic body

components by the vehicle manufacturers (egbumpers, spoilers, and in some cases majorbody panels), rectification of more seriousdamage to such items has become a matterof either entrusting repair work to a specialistin this field, or renewing completecomponents. Repair of such damage by theDIY owner is not really feasible owing to thecost of the equipment and materials requiredfor effecting such repairs. The basic techniqueinvolves making a groove along the line of thecrack in the plastic using a rotary burr in apower drill. The damaged part is then weldedback together by using a hot air gun to heatup and fuse a plastic filler rod into the groove.Any excess plastic is then removed and thearea rubbed down to a smooth finish. It isimportant that a filler rod of the correct plasticis used, as body components can be made ofa variety of different types (eg polycarbonate,ABS, polypropylene).

Damage of a less serious nature (abrasions,minor cracks etc) can be repaired by the DIYowner using a two-part epoxy filler repairmaterial. Once mixed in equal proportions,this is used in similar fashion to the bodyworkfiller used on metal panels. The filler is usuallycured in twenty to thirty minutes, ready forsanding and painting.

If the owner is renewing a completecomponent himself, or if he has repaired itwith epoxy filler, he will be left with theproblem of finding a suitable paint for finishingwhich is compatible with the type of plasticused. At one time the use of a universal paintwas not possible owing to the complex rangeof plastics encountered in body componentapplications. Standard paints, generallyspeaking, will not bond to plastic or rubbersatisfactorily. However, it is now possible toobtain a plastic body parts finishing kit whichconsists of a pre-primer treatment, a primerand coloured top coat. Full instructions arenormally supplied with a kit, but basically themethod of use is to first apply the pre-primerto the component concerned and allow it todry for up to 30 minutes. Then the primer isapplied and left to dry for about an hourbefore finally applying the special colouredtop coat. The result is a correctly colouredcomponent where the paint will flex with theplastic or rubber, a property that standardpaint does not normally possess.

5 Major structural damage orcorrosion - generalinformation

51 Because the body is built on themonocoque principle and is integral with theunderframe, major damage must be repairedby specialists with the necessary welding andhydraulic straightening equipment.2 Although subframes are used front andrear, they act in the main as supports andlocations for the power units and suspensionsystems.3 If the damage is severe, it is vital that oncompletion of the repair the body andsubframes are in correct alignment. Lesssevere damage may also have twisted ordistorted the body or subframes, although thismay not be visible immediately. It is thereforealways best on completion of repair to checkfor twist and squareness to make sure all iswell.4 To check for twist, position the car on aclean level floor, place a jack under eachjacking point, raise the car and take off thewheels. Raise or lower the jacks until the sillsare parallel with the ground. Depending wherethe damage occurred, using an accuratescale, take measurements at the suspensionmounting points and if comparable readingsare not obtained it is an indication that thebody is twisted.5 After checking for twist, check forsquareness by taking a series ofmeasurements on the floor (see illustration).Drop a plumb line and bob weight fromvarious mounting points on the underside ofthe body and mark these points on the floorwith chalk. Draw a straight line between eachpoint and measure and mark the middle of

Bodywork and fittings 11•3

11

each line. A line drawn on the floor starting atthe front and finishing at the rear should bequite straight and pass through the centres ofthe other lines. Diagonal measurements canalso be made as a check for squareness.6 On older Minis, rust or corrosion of thevehicle underframe is a common occurrenceand, if the corrosion has reached an advancedstate, may be grounds for failure of the annualMoT test.7 Where serious rust or corrosion hasaffected a load bearing area, it will benecessary to have this repaired immediatelyeither by fitting a new body section or, in lessserious cases, by plating over the affectedarea. The load bearing areas of the Mini

consist of the subframe, the side sills (innerand outer) and any area of the vehiclestructure within 305 mm of a suspension,steering, subframe, or seat belt anchoragepoint.8 Repairs of this nature are best left to a bodyrepair specialist, as any new section or platingthat may be necessary must be welded inplace to restore the original structural rigidityof the bodyshell. The repair of corrosion tostructural areas using fibreglass, body filler, orthe retention of new sections with pop rivets,or screws, is not acceptable to legalrequirements.

6 Front door interior trim panel(Saloon and Estate models) -removal and refitting

1Removal1 Undo and remove the two screws and liftoff the interior pull handle (see illustration).2 Undo and remove the retaining screws andlift away the door lock remote control handlefollowed by the window regulator handle andsurround (see illustrations). On later models,the screw securing the window regulatorhandle is covered with a trim cap, which mustbe carefully prised out for access to the screw.


6.1 Remove the interior pull handleretaining screws and handle

6.2a Remove the door lock remote controlhandle . . .

6.2b . . . and the window regulator handle

5.5 Body and subframe horizontal alignment check

AA Width between centres of the front subframe front mountingbolts = 660.4 mm

BB Width between centres of the front subframe rear mountingbolts = 412.65 mm

CC Width between centres of the rear subframe front mountingblock lower bolts = 1282.7 mm

DD Width between centres of the rear subframe rear mountingblock bolts = 977.9 mm

3 Carefully ease off the interior lock controlsurround (see illustration).4 On later models undo and remove theretaining screws and lift away the storage bin.5 If the top edge of the trim panelincorporates a trim capping, undo the twoscrews, then carefully ease the capping awayfrom the door using a wide-bladedscrewdriver or flat strip of metal. This willrelease the three retaining studs behind thecapping, allowing the capping to be liftedaway. If any of the studs break duringremoval, extract the broken stud and glue anew one in its place. 6 Using a wide-bladed screwdriver or flatstrip of metal inserted between the trim paneland the door, carefully detach the trim panelclips from the door panel (see illustration).7 When all the clips are released, the panelcan be withdrawn.8 If it is wished to gain access to the internaldoor components, carefully peel off thewaterproof covering.

Refitting9 Refitting is the reverse sequence toremoval, but ensure that the waterproofcovering is in position before refitting thepanel. If the panel incorporates a trimcapping, refit by placing the capping inposition and pushing the studs fully home.Secure with the three retaining screws.

7 Doors - removal and refitting 2All models except Van and Pick-up

Removal1 Refer to Chapter 3 and remove the fresh airvent assembly (if fitted) adjacent to the doorpillar.2 Gently ease the door sealing rubber fromthe door pillar around the area where it retainsthe facia inner trim.3 Undo and remove the retaining screws (iffitted), and then carefully fold back the faciainner trim to give access to the door checkstrap aperture.

4 Extract the split pin and clevis pin from thedoor check strap.5 Support the weight of the door on blocks,or engage the help of an assistant. Undo andremove the four nuts and two washer plates,accessible from inside the front wheel arch.6 Carefully lift the door assembly, completewith hinges, off the body, noting the positionof any alignment shims that may be fitted tothe hinges.

Refitting7 Refitting the door is the reverse sequenceto removal.

Van and Pick-up models

Removal8 Upon inspection it will be seen that eachdoor is held in place by two hinges and acheck strap.9 To remove a door, first unscrew andremove the two set screws and washers thatsecure the door check strap coupling bracketwhich is located on the inside of the doorpillars. To gain access it will be necessary toease back the side trim first.10 Open the door carefully and pull out theinterior lining of the door.11 Undo and remove the cross-head screwand nut from the door side of each of the twohinges.12 The door can now be lifted away from thebody, leaving the hinges still attached to thebody.

Refitting13 Refitting the door is the reverse sequenceto removal.

8 Door hinge - removal andrefitting 2

All models except Van and Pick-up

Removal1 Remove the door as described in Section 7.2 The hinges can now be removed from thedoor by simply undoing the retaining screwsand lifting off.



Removal4 Refer to Section 7 and remove the door.5 Two nuts/bolts hold each hinge to the insideof the front wing. The heads of the nuts/boltsare very difficult to get at because they aresurrounded at the top and bottom by the sidesof the support brackets. This is particularlyapplicable to the top hinge, inside bolt.6 Using a socket and universal coupling,undo and remove the nuts and bolts and liftaway the hinge.7 If the head on one of the bolts has becomeso burred that the spanner will no longer fitand provide a positive grip, very carefullyexamine a new hinge and decide on the exactposition of the old bolt by comparison.8 The old bolt can then be carefully drilled outfrom the outside of the hinge.

Refitting9 Refitting the door hinge is the reversesequence to removal.

9 Front door glass - removaland refitting 3


Removal1 Refer to Section 6, and remove the doorinterior trim panel.2 Carefully ease off the waist rail finisherstrips from the top of the door edge, takingcare not to damage them as they are liftedaway from the clips.3 Wind the window approximately half-waydown so that the two arms of the regulatormechanism are as near vertical as they canbe. With a piece of wood, wedge the windowglass at the sill in this position.4 Remove the regulator mechanism securingscrews (see illustration).5 Pull the regulator away from the door panelenough to move it forwards so that the reararm comes out of the window channel. Thenmove the mechanism back to release the armfrom the front channel and lift it away.6 Support the glass with one hand, removethe wedge and tilt the forward edge down intothe door so that the top rear corner of theglass comes inside the top of the windowframe. The glass can then be lifted out.

Refitting7 Refitting is the reverse sequence toremoval, bearing in mind the following points:a) Make sure that the window is located

snugly in the frame glazing channelsbefore wedging it in the half-way position.


11

6.3 Ease off the interior lock controlsurround . . .

6.6 . . . then detach the panel clips andwithdraw the trim panel

b) Check that the waist rail finisher clips areevenly spaced before fitting the finishersback on. With the inner finisher, butt theforward end against the glazing channelrubber seal before fitting the rest.

c) Before securing the regulator mechanismto the door panel, apply a suitable sealerto the edge of the plate. Thiscompensates for any irregularities in thepanel which could cause rattles. Ensurethat the lip on the front edge of the plateis engaged inside the panel.


Removal8 Undo and remove the retaining screw, bossand washer securing the catches to the glass.Lift off the catches and sealing rubbers.9 Slide the front glass rearwards and thenundo and remove the screw securing thelower channel to the door. If the screw is verytight or badly corroded, apply liberal amountsof penetrating oil to the screw and allow it tosoak in. Give the screw a sharp tap with ahammer and drift to break the corrosion. Itshould now be possible to unscrew it.10 Move both glasses forward and repeat theabove procedure, if necessary, on the otherlower channel retaining screw.11 Ease the glasses, lower channel, andglass catch strip towards the centre of the carat the bottom, then lift the assembly off thedoor. The two sliding glasses can then beremoved from the lower channel.


10 Front door lock assembly -removal and refitting 1


Removal1 Refer to Section 6 and remove the doorinterior trim panel.2 Undo and remove the screws securing the

door inner remote control handle to the doorpanel (see illustration).3 Undo and remove the screws securing theinterior lock control to the door panel (seeillustration).4 Undo and remove the screws securing thedoor lock to the side of the door (seeillustration).5 Slide the door lock out of its location in thedoor and carefully release the two smallcirclips securing the remote control handleand interior lock operating rods to the doorlock assembly.6 Lift away the door lock, then withdraw theremote control and interior lock control fromthe door panel.


10.2 Remove the door inner remotecontrol handle retaining screws . . .

10.3 . . . the interior lock control retainingscrews . . .

9.4 Removal of front door glassInset shows regulator arm and position of door glass ready for removal

1 Waist rail finisher (outer)2 Waist rail finisher (inner)

3 Securing clips for finishers4 Window regulator

5 Regulator securing screws6 Wedge (to hold glass)

Refitting7 Refitting is the reverse sequence toremoval, bearing in mind the following points:a) Ensure that the small link rod on the lock

assembly is engaged with the operatinglink of the exterior door handle.

b) If problems are experienced with theoperation of the lock, it is likely that theinner remote control handle assembly isincorrectly positioned. If the door fails tolock, loosen the three retaining screws,and move the remote control handleassembly forwards to correct theoperation. If the door fails to unlock, movethe assembly rearwards.


Removal8 Undo and remove the three screws thatsecure the lock body to the inner door panel(see illustration).9 Undo and remove the screw located at theend of the locking handle spindle.10 Slacken the inner handle clamp screw(where fitted) and slide out the outer handleand escutcheon. Now lift off the lock body.


11 Front door exterior handle(Saloon and Estate models) -removal and refitting 1

Removal1 Refer to Section 6 and remove the doorinterior trim panel.2 Undo and remove the screws securing theinterior lock control to the inner door panel.3 Undo and remove the screws securing thedoor lock assembly to the side of the door,and move the lock up at the bottom and awayfrom the door.4 Undo and remove the screws securing theexterior handle to the door and lift the handleoff (see illustration).

5 With the handle removed, the lock barreland push button can be withdrawn as follows.6 Prise off the retaining clip securing the lockbarrel to the handle.7 Insert the key into the lock and withdrawthe lock barrel.8 Undo and remove the screw securing theretaining plate to the exterior handle.9 Lift off the retaining plate, operating link,washer, and spring. Now withdraw the pushbutton.

Refitting10 Refitting is the reverse sequence toremoval. On the earlier type door handle thepush button plunger incorporates anadjustable nylon cap over the plunger. Theadjustment of this cap is set duringmanufacture, but if necessary it can bescrewed in or out slightly to give 1.0 to 1.5mm of free play before contacting the doorlock release lever (see illustration).


11

10.4 . . . and the door lock retainingscrews

11.4 Exterior door handle securing screws(arrowed) - Saloon and Estate models

11.10 Door handle push button plungeradjustment

A Lock releaselever

B Plunger capC = 1.0 to 1.5 mm

10.8 Exploded view of the door lock and handle assembly fitted to Van and Pick-up models

1 Lock handle spindle fixings2 Lock body retaining screws3 Interior handle

4 Seal5 Exterior handle

12 Front door striker plate -removal and refitting 1


Removal1 Remove the striker plate cover from thebody pillar.2 Undo and remove the striker plate retainingscrews, lift out the striker lock and remove thestriker plate.

Refitting3 Refitting is the reverse sequence toremoval. Adjust the striker plate so that as thedoor is closed, the striker lock passes throughthe door lock without fouling. It should also bepossible to push the door in slightly againstcompression of the sealing rubber when thedoor is closed.


Removal4 To remove the striker on these models,simply undo and remove the retaining screwsand lift off.

Refitting5 When refitting the striker plate, adjust it sothat the door sealing rubber is justcompressed and the door is flush with theadjoining bodywork when closed.

13 Bonnet - removal and refitting 1Removal1 Open the bonnet and support on its stay.2 With a pencil, mark the outline of the hingeon the bonnet to assist correct refitting.3 An assistant should now take the weight ofthe bonnet. Undo and remove the bonnet-to-hinge retaining nuts, spring and plain washersat both hinges (see illustration). Carefully liftaway the bonnet over the front of the car.

Refitting4 Refitting is the reverse sequence toremoval. Alignment in the body may be madeby leaving the securing nuts slightly loose andrepositioning by trial and error.

14 Bonnet lock release cable -removal and refitting 2

Removal1 From inside the car, slacken the retainingnut, and release the cable and handleassembly from the bracket under the facia.

2 In the engine compartment, remove theignition splash shield, then undo the two boltssecuring the bonnet lock to the front panel.3 Disconnect the return spring and therelease cable from the bonnet lock, andremove the lock.4 Undo the bolt and move the relay located atthe rear of the right-hand inner wing, foraccess to the cable-to-bulkhead grommet.5 Release the cable from the cable clip, pushthe cable grommet through the bulkhead, andwithdraw the cable from inside the car.

Refitting6 Refitting is the reverse sequence toremoval, but adjust the bonnet lock alignmentbefore finally tightening the two lock retainingbolts.

15 Bonnet lock - removal andrefitting 1

Removal1 Open the bonnet and support it on its stay.2 On models having an ignition splash shieldattached to the body front panel, undo andremove the retaining screws and withdraw theshield.3 Detach the slider catch return spring.4 Undo and remove the two screws securingthe lock assembly to the front panel and lift offthe lock and guide plate.



13.3 Bonnet hinge and lock assemblies

16 Boot lid - removal and refitting 1Removal1 Open the boot lid and disconnect thenumber plate light electrical leads from theirconnectors in the boot compartment wiringharness.2 Support the boot lid and undo and removethe screws securing the two stays to the sidesof the boot lid.3 Undo and remove the nuts, spring and plainwashers securing the hinges to the boot lidand lift off the boot lid (see illustration).


17 Boot lid lock - removal andrefitting 1

Removal1 Open the boot lid, undo and remove theretaining screws, and lift off the lockassembly.2 To remove the lock handle, undo andremove the two nuts and washers and lift offthe handle and joint washer.3 If it is wished to remove the lock barrel fromthe handle, extract the spring clip and slide offthe flat and wavy washers from the end of thehandle.4 Take out the small lock barrel retaining pinand then slide out the barrel. Recover thelocking pin from the end of the handle.

Refitting5 Reassembly and refitting of the lock is thereverse sequence to removal. Whenreassembling the lock barrel, position thesmall retaining pin in the slot of the locking pinbefore refitting.

18 Rear doors (Estate and Vanmodels) - removal andrefitting 1

Removal1 Open both doors and disconnect the doorsupport stays by undoing the nut, washer andbolt at the end of each stay.2 Preferably have an assistant hold the door,or place a support under it, and then benddown the tab washer on each door hinge.3 Undo and remove the nut, tab washer,hinge centre bolt, and the spherical bush fromeach of the door hinges in turn.


19 Rear door lock (Estate andVan models) - removal andrefitting

1Removal1 Undo and remove the screws securing thelock to the door.2 Disengage the lock assembly from thehandle, lift it up to release the lower stay fromits guide, lower it to release the upper stay,and then withdraw the complete assembly.3 Slacken the nuts securing the stays to thelock and then unscrew the stays.4 To remove the door handle, release thedoor seal retaining clips from the hole in thedoor panel.5 Undo and remove the nuts and washerssecuring the door handle to the door. Lift offthe handle and recover the joint washer.6 To remove the lock barrel, first remove theretaining circlip and slide off the cover, springwasher and brass washers.7 Withdraw the handle yoke, extract the lockbarrel retaining pin, and remove the lockbarrel and locking pin.

Refitting8 Reassembly and refitting is the reversesequence to removal. When refitting the staysnote that the cranked stay is refitted to the topwith the crank to the right.

20 Tailgate (Pick-up models) -removal and refitting 1

Removal1 Undo and remove the number plate lightcover retaining screw and lift off the cover andlens.2 Detach the electrical leads from the numberplate light bulb holders and withdraw theleads from the tailgate.3 Support the tailgate in the open position,then undo and remove the tailgate stayssecuring screws.4 Undo and remove the screws securing thetailgate hinges to the tailgate and carefully liftaway the tailgate.


21 Windscreen - removal andrefitting 3

Removal1 Remove the wiper arms from their spindlesby using a screwdriver to ease them up, thenlift off.2 If a self-adhesive interior mirror is fitted tothe windscreen, remove it by gently warmingthe mirror base and the area of screen aroundit. Use a hair dryer or rag soaked in warmwater as a heat source.


11

16.3 Boot lid hinge and lock assemblies

3 Using a small screwdriver, carefully ease upone end of the finishing strip from its groove inthe windscreen sealing rubber and then pullthe entire length of the strip out of the rubber.4 If an undamaged windscreen is beingremoved, from inside the car firmly push thescreen outwards, starting at one of the topcorners. Carefully remove the completewindscreen from the sealing rubber and lift ifoff the car. Withdraw the sealing rubber fromthe windscreen aperture in the body.5 If a shattered windscreen is being removed,lay some old blankets or sheets over thebonnet and in the car interior, making surethat the demister vents are well covered.Break the remaining glass onto the blanketsor sheets, and then withdraw the sealingrubber from the windscreen aperture. Discardthe shattered glass and clean up anyfragments using a vacuum cleaner.

Refitting6 To fit the windscreen, first inspect thesealing rubber for hardness or deteriorationand renew if necessary. It is advisable torenew the sealing rubber as a matter ofcourse when fitting a new windscreen.7 Position the sealing rubber over thewindscreen, and then insert a length of string,around the circumference of the rubber,ensuring that it seats into the body flangegroove of the rubber. Position the string sothat the two ends protrude by at least 300 mmat the bottom centre of the screen.8 Mix a concentrated soap and water solutionand apply it liberally to the flange of thewindscreen aperture.9 Place the windscreen and rubber seal inposition on the car, and engage the help of anassistant to apply firm pressure to the outsideof the screen. From inside the car use thestring to pull the rubber lip over the bodyflange, working slowly around the screen untilthe string has been fully withdrawn.10 Starting at the top centre of the rubberseal, use a wide-bladed screwdriver to spreadthe lips of the seal, while at the same timepressing the finishing strip into place. Workaround the entire circumference of thewindscreen in this way.11 With the screen in position and thefinishing strip fitted, the wiper arms can nowbe refitted to their spindles, and the mirror(where fitted) re-secured using a suitableadhesive.

22 Rear window (Saloon andPick-up models) - removaland refitting

3The removal and refitting procedure for the

rear window or its sealing rubber is the sameas described in Section 21 for the windscreen.On later models, it will also be necessary todisconnect the electrical supply and earthleads to the heated rear window elementbefore removal.

23 Rear door window (Estateand Van models) - removaland refitting

3The removal and refitting procedure for the

rear door window or its sealing rubber is thesame as described in Section 21 for thewindscreen. Note, however, that the sealingrubber does not incorporate a finishing strip.

24 Rear quarterlight glass(Saloon models) - removaland refitting

2Hinged type

Removal1 Open the window and then undo andremove the screws securing the catch to thebody.2 With the window supported, undo andremove the screws securing the hinge(s) tothe body pillar.3 Lift away the window, and if required undoand remove the retaining screw and windowglass surround.


Fixed type5 Removal and refitting of the fixed typewindow follows the same procedure asdescribed for the windscreen in Section 21.Note, however, that the sealing rubber doesnot incorporate a finishing strip.

25 Rear side screen window(Estate models) - removaland refitting

2Removal1 Carefully remove the trim panel from abovethe windows.2 Undo and remove the screw securing thefixed window locking peg and withdraw the peg.3 Undo and remove the screws securing thefront, upper, and rear glazing channels and liftout the front and rear channels.4 Slide the windows toward the front of thecar and then pull down the rear of the upperchannel to release it from the window frame.5 Now slide the windows and upper channelrearwards to release the front of the upperchannel, and then carefully remove thechannel and windows.


26 Wooden facia - removal andrefitting 3

Removal1 Disconnect the battery negative lead.2 Open the doors, and carefully release thedoor seal weatherstrip from the area near theends of the facia.3 Remove the complete steering columnassembly as described in Chapter 10.4 Remove the fresh air vent assemblies fromboth sides of the facia as described inChapter 3.5 Remove the radio as described in Chapter 12.6 Working through the fresh air ventapertures, slacken the two bolts, one eachside, securing the facia mounting brackets(see illustration).7 Release the facia and withdraw it forwardfrom its location.8 Disconnect the wiring to the glovebox light,clock and instruments, then remove the faciafrom the car.9 The glovebox can be removed, if desired,by undoing the screws securing the lid hingesand the glovebox liner, and lifting thesecomponents away (see illustration).10 The instrument panel can be removed byundoing the 12 screws securing the panel tothe rear of the facia and lifting away, completewith instruments. Removal of the instrumentsfrom the panel is as described in Chapter 12.


26.6 Wooden facia attachment points

1 Inset shows mounting bracket locationsaccessible through fresh air vent apertures

When cleaning up after ashattered windscreen,operate the heater in allpositions with the fan motor

running to dislodge any trapped glass,but watch out for flying fragmentswhich may be blown out of the ducting.

11 To remove the clock, simply undo theclamping bracket nut, and slide the clock outof the front of the facia.


27 Facia top rail cover - removaland refitting 1

RemovalNote: When removing the facia top rail onmodels with a wooden facia, the facia must beremoved first as described in Section 26.1 Remove the fresh air vent assemblies fromboth sides of the facia as described inChapter 3.2 Release the door seal weatherstrip from thebody pillar sufficiently to clear the top railcover.3 Withdraw the left-hand facia inner trimpanel.4 Undo and remove the four nuts securingthe top rail cover, lift the front of the coverupwards to release the four studs, and thenwithdraw the cover from the car.


28 Centre console - removal andrefitting 2

Removal1 Disconnect the battery negative lead.2 Undo and remove the centre consoleretaining screws (see illustration).3 Carefully ease off the radio knobs andfinishers, and then undo and remove the radiosecuring wing nuts.4 Engage fourth gear, while at the same timemoving the console rearwards. Undo andremove the radio retaining screws and easethe radio clear of the console.5 Disconnect the wiring from the clock andcigarette lighter, and detach the speaker plugfrom the radio.6 Release the gear lever grommet thenremove the centre console from the car.7 With the console removed, release theclamp and lift out the cloth. Unscrew thecigarette lighter body and withdraw it. Unclipand remove the speaker grille, then lift out thespeaker after undoing the retaining screws.

Refitting8 Refitting the components to the consoleand the console to the car is the reversesequence to removal.


11

28.2 Centre console components and attachments

26.9 Wooden facia components

1 Facia panel2 Facia mounting brackets3 Instrument panel

4 Instrument panel retainingplates

5 Glove box liner6 Glove box lid

7 Glove box lid strap8 Radio blanking plate

(where fitted)

29 Front grille - removal andrefitting 1

All models except Clubman and 1275 GT

Removal1 Undo and remove the self-tapping screwssecuring the edge trim to each side of thegrille and lift off the trim (see illustration).2 Undo and remove the remaining screwssecuring the centre panel of the grille andwithdraw the panel.


Clubman and 1275 GT models

Removal4 Undo and remove the self-tapping screwssecuring the grille panel and the headlightextension panels.5 Lift off the extension panels, disengage thelugs on the lower edge of the grille from thegrommets in the lower body panel, and lift offthe grille.


30 Bodywork seam trim strips -general information 2

1 The welded seams on the exterior of theMini bodywork are covered by protectivemetal and push-fit trim strips which are eitherchromium plated or sprayed to match theexterior colour scheme. Additionally, achrome, black, or body-coloured trim strip isused to cover the side sill seams and, onmodels without flared wheel arch extensions,the wheel arch edges. On most models, this isa one piece plastic moulding running the fulllength of the car.2 The side seam trim strips are removed bycarefully prising up with a screwdriver andlifting off.3 To refit the strips, ensure that the smallretaining clips are in sound condition andsimply push the trim into place, giving it a firmpush with the palm of your hand to ensurethat it is fully home.4 The wheel arch and side sill plasticmoulding is removed after first drilling out the

pop rivet that retains each end of the trim tothe wheel arch.5 Before fitting a new trim, heat it slightly in awarm oven until it is pliable and then carefullyposition it over the wheel arch edges and sidesill seams. Secure each end with a pop rivetor self tapping screw.

31 Front and rear bumpers -removal and refitting 1

The layout of the bumpers and their methodof attachment varies considerably accordingto model type and year of manufacture. Thelocation and type of retaining nuts, bolts orscrews will be obvious after a visualinspection, and no problems should beencountered (see illustration). On modelswith a full width wrap-around bumper, it ishelpful to engage the aid of an assistant tosupport the bumper, thus ensuring that thepaintwork is not scratched as it is removed.

32 Sunroof components -general information

The sunroof is a complex piece ofequipment, consisting of a large number ofcomponents. Adjustment and/or repair of thesunroof is outside the scope of this manual,and it is recommended that work of thisnature should be entrusted to your Roverdealer.


29.1 Front grille panels and attachments


11

31.1 Front and rear bumpers and attachments - Clubman models

12

Chapter 12Body electrical system

GeneralSystem type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12-volt negative earth

Main fuses (two-fuse fuse block)Fuse connecting Rating (amp) Circuits protected

1 and 2 35 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Interior light, horn and auxiliary units which operate with the ignitionswitched on or off

3 and 4 35 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Direction indicators, windscreen wiper motor, heater blower, stoplights and auxiliary units which operate only when the ignition isswitched on

Note: The fitting of additional accessories which are required to operate independently of the ignition circuit should be connected to the “2”terminal; accessories which are required to operate only when the ignition is switched on should be connected to the “4” terminal.

Line fuses (two-fuse fuse block)Rating (amp) Circuits protected

8 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Side and tail lights35 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Hazard flasher

Main fuses (four-fuse fuse block - early models)Fuse connecting Rating (amp) Circuits protected

1 and 2 35 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Stop lights, reversing lights, direction indicators, heated rear window.These systems will only operate with the ignition switch at position ll

3 and 4 25 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Horn, headlight flasher, brake failure circuit. These systems operateindependently of the ignition switch

5 and 6 25 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Heater blower motor, windscreen wipers/ washers, radio. Thesesystems will operate with the ignition switch at position I or II

7 and 8 15 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Side and tail lights, instrument panel lightsNote: The fitting of additional accessories which are required to operate independently of the ignition circuit should be connected to the “4”terminal.

Line fuses (four-fuse fuse block - early models)Rating (amp) Circuits protected

15 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Hazard flashers, interior light- . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Radio (rating to be as specified by the manufacturer)

Anti-theft alarm system components - removal and refitting . . . . . . 19Bulbs (exterior lights) - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5Bulbs (interior lights) - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6Dim-dip lighting system components - removal and refitting . . . . . . 8Electrical fault finding - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2Fuses and relays - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3General information and precautions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1Headlight beam alignment - checking and adjusting . . . . . . . . . . . . 7Horn - removal, refitting and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9Instrument panel - dismantling and reassembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16Instrument panel - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15

Radio - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18Speedometer cable - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17Switches - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4Windscreen washer fluid level check . . . . . . . . . .See “Weekly Checks”Windscreen washer pump - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14Windscreen wiper arms - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10Windscreen wiper motor - dismantling and reassembly . . . . . . . . . . 12Windscreen wiper motor - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11Windscreen wiper wheelbox - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13Wiper blade check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See “Weekly Checks”

12•1

Specifications

Contents







54321

Main fuses (four-fuse fuse block - later models)Fuse connecting Rating (amp) Circuits protected

1 and 2 35 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Stop lights, reversing lights, direction indicator relay, heated rearwindow, headlight dim-dip relay. These systems will only operate withthe ignition switch at position ll

3 and 4 25 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Horn, headlight flasher, brake failure circuit, radio memory. Thesesystems operate independently of the ignition switch

5 and 6 25 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Heater blower motor, windscreen wipers/ washers, instruments. Thesesystems will operate with the ignition switch at position I or ll

7 and 8 15 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Left-hand side and tail lights, instrument panel lights, headlight dim-dip relay

Note: The fitting of additional accessories which are required to operate independently of the ignition circuit should be connected to the “4”terminal

Line fuses (four-fuse fuse block - later models)Rating (amp) Circuits protected

15 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Right-hand side and tail lights10 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Direction indicators/hazard flashers, interior light15 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Dim-dip lighting10 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Rear fog light

Fuses (twenty four-fuse fuse block)Fuse number Rating (amp) Circuits protected

1 15 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Heated rear window2 15 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Reversing lights, stop lights, headlight dim/dip*, direction indicator

relay3 15 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Auxiliary cooling fan4 15 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Headlight dim/dip*5 15 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Heater blower motor, sunroof motor*6 15 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Wipers/ washers7 20 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Headlight flasher, horn, anti-theft alarm*8 10 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Tachometer*, engine management ECU*, fuel pump relay*, anti-theft

alarm*9 10 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Radio/cassette, cooling fan relay, automatic gear selector light*10 10 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Radio memory*, interior light, direction indicators, hazard flasher, anti-

theft alarm LED* brake test circuit*11 10 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Fuel pump*12 10 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Starter signal13 10 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Left-hand, side and tail lights14 10 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Right-hand, side and tail lights, instrument illumination15 10 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Left-hand headlight main beam16 10 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Right-hand headlight main beam, main beam warning light17 10 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Left-hand headlight dip beam18 10 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Right-hand headlight dip beam19 20 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Not used20 15 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Not used21 10 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Not used22 20 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Not used23 Not used24 10 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Rear fog light

* depending on model

Bulbs Wattage TypeHeadlights, LHD (except Europe - dip right) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50/40 415Headlights, Europe (except France - dip vertical) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45/40 410Headlights, France - dip vertical . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45/40 411Sealed beam headlight units:

Sealed beam with sidelights, dip left (UK only) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60/45 104Sealed beam without sidelight, dip left (not UK) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60/54 101

Auxiliary driving lights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55 453Sidelights (bayonet type) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 989Sidelights (capless type) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 501Sidelights and front direction indicators . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21/5 380Direction indicators - front . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 382Direction indicators - rear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 382Direction indicator side repeaters . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 501Number plate light (Saloon) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 254Number plate light (Estate, Van and Pick-up) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 989

12•2 Body electrical system

Bulbs (continued) Wattage TypeRear foglight . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 382Panel and warning lights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.2 987Stop/tail lights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21/5 380Reversing lights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 382Interior light (early models) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 254Interior light (later models) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 245Glovebox light . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 245Footwell light . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 239Illuminated switches . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.75 284

Windscreen wiper motorBrush spring pressure . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 140 to 200 gMinimum brush length . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.8 mmArmature endfloat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.05 to 0.02 mmMaximum pull to move rack in guide tubes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.7 kg


General informationThe electrical system is of 12-volt negativeearth type. Power for the lights and allelectrical accessories is supplied by alead/acid battery which is charged by thedynamo or alternator.This chapter covers repair and serviceprocedures for the various electricalcomponents and systems generally notassociated with the engine. Information on thebattery, ignition system, dynamo, alternatorand starter motor can be found in the relevantParts of Chapter 5.

PrecautionsWarning: Before carrying out anywork on the electrical system,read through the precautionsgiven in “Safety first!” at the

beginning of this manual and in Chapter 5.Caution: Prior to working on anycomponent in the electrical system, thebattery negative lead should first bedisconnected, to prevent the possibility ofelectrical short-circuits and/or fires. If aradio/cassette player with anti-theftsecurity code is fitted, or if the vehicle isequipped with anti-theft alarm system,refer to the information given in thereference sections of this manual beforedisconnecting the battery.

2 Electrical fault finding -general information 2

Note: Refer to the precautions given in“Safety first!” and in Section 1 of this Chapterbefore starting work. The following tests relateto testing of the main electrical circuits, andshould not be used to test delicate electroniccircuits, particularly where an electroniccontrol unit is used.

General1 A typical electrical circuit consists of anelectrical component, any switches, relays,motors, fuses, fusible links or circuit breakersrelated to that component, and the wiring andconnectors which link the component to boththe battery and the chassis. To help to pinpointa problem in an electrical circuit, wiringdiagrams are included at the end of this manual.2 Before attempting to diagnose an electricalfault, first study the appropriate wiringdiagram, to obtain a complete understandingof the components included in the particularcircuit concerned. The possible sources of afault can be narrowed down by noting if othercomponents related to the circuit areoperating properly. If several components orcircuits fail at one time, the problem is likely tobe related to a shared fuse or earthconnection.3 Electrical problems usually stem fromsimple causes, such as loose or corrodedconnections, a faulty earth connection, ablown fuse, a melted fusible link, or a faultyrelay. Visually inspect the condition of allfuses, wires and connections in a problemcircuit before testing the components. Usethe wiring diagrams to determine whichterminal connections will need to be checkedin order to pinpoint the trouble-spot.4 The basic tools required for electrical fault-finding include a circuit tester or voltmeter (a12-volt bulb with a set of test leads can alsobe used for certain tests); an ohmmeter (tomeasure resistance and check for continuity);a battery and set of test leads; and a jumperwire, preferably with a circuit breaker or fuseincorporated, which can be used to bypasssuspect wires or electrical components.Before attempting to locate a problem withtest instruments, use the wiring diagram todetermine where to make the connections.5 To find the source of an intermittent wiringfault (usually due to a poor or dirtyconnection, or damaged wiring insulation), a“wiggle” test can be performed on the wiring.This involves wiggling the wiring by hand tosee if the fault occurs as the wiring is moved.It should be possible to narrow down the

source of the fault to a particular section ofwiring. This method of testing can be used inconjunction with any of the tests described inthe following sub-Sections.6 Apart from problems due to poorconnections, two basic types of fault canoccur in an electrical circuit - open-circuit, orshort-circuit.7 Open-circuit faults are caused by a breaksomewhere in the circuit, which preventscurrent from flowing. An open-circuit fault willprevent a component from working.8 Short-circuit faults are caused by a “short”somewhere in the circuit, which allows thecurrent flowing in the circuit to “escape” alongan alternative route, usually to earth. Short-circuit faults are normally caused by abreakdown in wiring insulation, which allows afeed wire to touch either another wire, or anearthed component such as the bodyshell. Ashort-circuit fault will normally cause therelevant circuit fuse to blow.

Finding an open-circuit9 To check for an open-circuit, connect onelead of a circuit tester or the negative lead of avoltmeter either to the battery negativeterminal or to a known good earth.10 Connect the other lead to a connector inthe circuit being tested, preferably nearest tothe battery or fuse. At this point, batteryvoltage should be present, unless the leadfrom the battery or the fuse itself is faulty(bearing in mind that some circuits are liveonly when the ignition switch is moved to aparticular position).11 Switch on the circuit, then connect thetester lead to the connector nearest the circuitswitch on the component side.12 If voltage is present (indicated either bythe tester bulb lighting or a voltmeter reading,as applicable), this means that the section ofthe circuit between the relevant connectorand the switch is problem-free.13 Continue to check the remainder of thecircuit in the same fashion.14 When a point is reached at which novoltage is present, the problem must liebetween that point and the previous test pointwith voltage. Most problems can be traced toa broken, corroded or loose connection.

Body electrical system 12•3

12

Finding a short-circuit15 To check for a short-circuit, firstdisconnect the load(s) from the circuit (loadsare the components which draw current froma circuit, such as bulbs, motors, heatingelements, etc).16 Remove the relevant fuse from the circuit,and connect a circuit tester or voltmeter to thefuse connections.17 Switch on the circuit, bearing in mind thatsome circuits are live only when the ignitionswitch is moved to a particular position.18 If voltage is present (indicated either bythe tester bulb lighting or a voltmeter reading,as applicable), this means that there is ashort-circuit.19 If no voltage is present during this test,but the fuse still blows with the load(s)reconnected, this indicates an internal fault inthe load(s).

Finding an earth fault20 The battery negative terminal isconnected to “earth” - the metal of theengine/transmission and the vehicle body -and many systems are wired so that they onlyreceive a positive feed, the current returningvia the metal of the car body. This means thatthe component mounting and the body formpart of that circuit. Loose or corrodedmountings can therefore cause a range ofelectrical faults, ranging from total failure of acircuit, to a puzzling partial failure. Inparticular, lights may shine dimly (especiallywhen another circuit sharing the same earthpoint is in operation), motors (eg wipermotors) may run slowly, and the operation ofone circuit may have an apparently-unrelatedeffect on another. Note that on many vehicles,earth straps are used between certaincomponents, such as the engine/transmissionand the body, usually where there is no metal-to-metal contact between components, dueto flexible rubber mountings, etc.21 To check whether a component is

properly earthed, disconnect the battery andconnect one lead of an ohmmeter to a knowngood earth point. Connect the other lead tothe wire or earth connection being tested. Theresistance reading should be zero; if not,check the connection as follows.22 If an earth connection is thought to befaulty, dismantle the connection, and cleanboth the bodyshell and the wire terminal (orthe component earth connection matingsurface) back to bare metal. Be careful toremove all traces of dirt and corrosion, thenuse a knife to trim away any paint, so that aclean metal-to-metal joint is made. Onreassembly, tighten the joint fastenerssecurely; if a wire terminal is being refitted,use serrated washers between the terminaland the bodyshell, to ensure a clean andsecure connection. When the connection isremade, prevent the onset of corrosion in thefuture by applying a coat of petroleum jelly orsilicone-based grease, or by spraying on (atregular intervals) a proprietary ignition sealer,or a water-dispersant lubricant.

3 Fuses and relays - generalinformation 1

Main fuses1 The main fuses are located in a block whichis mounted on the right-hand wing valance onearly models, and on the right-hand side of theengine compartment bulkhead on later models(see illustrations). The fuse block is coveredby a plastic push-on cover. Upon inspection itwill be seen that there are two main fuses onearly models and either four or twenty fourmain fuses on later versions. In both cases,spare fuses are contained within the fuseblock or cover. The fuse positions and circuitsprotected are listed in the Specifications.2 To remove a fuse, simply withdraw it fromthe contacts in the fuse block; the wire withinthe fuse should be visible; if the fuse is blown,the wire will be broken or melted. Beforerefitting a new fuse ensure that the contacts


3.1a Two-fuse type fuse block details

1 Spare fuses 2 35 amp fuse 3 35 amp fuse

3.1b Four-fuse type fusebox location

3.1c Twenty-four fuse type fuse block location

Arrows indicate fuse block cover locating notches

are clean and free from corrosion. Ifnecessary the contacts may be cleaned with afine grade emery paper.3 Always renew a fuse with one of anidentical rating; never use a fuse with adifferent rating from the original or substituteanything else. Never renew a fuse more thanonce without tracing the source of the trouble.4 Persistent blowing of a particular fuseindicates a fault in the circuit(s) protected.Where more than one circuit is involved, switchon one item at a time until the fuse blows, soshowing in which circuit the fault lies.5 Besides a fault in the electrical componentconcerned, a blown fuse can also be causedby a short-circuit in the wiring to thecomponent. Look for trapped or frayed wiresallowing a live wire to touch vehicle metal, andfor loose or damaged connectors.6 After renewing a fuse, refit the fuse blockcover, ensuring that it is pushed fully intoplace. The cover for the twenty four fuseblock, has two notches on one side to ensurethat it is fitted correctly.

Line fuses7 A line fuse is fitted to protect an individualunit or circuit. Line fuses are located in clusterson the engine compartment bulkhead, behindthe facia or instrument panel, and under thebonnet lock platform. The number of fuses,and the circuits protected, depends on modeland equipment fitted. To change a line fuse,hold one end of the container, press and twistoff the other end.

Relays8 A relay is an electrically-operated switch,which is used for the following reasons:a) A relay can switch a heavy current

remotely from the circuit in which thecurrent is flowing, allowing the use oflighter gauge wiring and switch contacts.

b) A relay can receive more than one controlinput, unlike a mechanical switch.

c) A relay can have a timer function - forexample an intermittent wiper delay.

9 On later Mini models, relays are used tooperate a number of circuits, mainly in theengine management and emission controlsystems. The engine management systemrelays are contained in a sealed modulemounted on the engine compartmentbulkhead - these cannot be individuallyrenewed and in the event of a fault in thisarea, the complete module must be renewed.A relay for the Lambda (oxygen) sensor ismounted separately, also on the bulkhead.Further information on the enginemanagement system relays will be found inChapter 4B and 4C.10 Relays for circuits such as the directionindicator/hazard flasher system, and auxiliarycooling fan are also used according to model,year, and equipment fitted.11 If a circuit which includes a relay developsa fault, remember that the relay itself could befaulty. Testing is by substitution of a knowngood relay. Do not assume that relays whichlook similar are necessarily identical forpurposes of substitution.12 Make sure that the ignition is switched off,then pull the relay from its socket. Push thenew relay firmly in to refit.

4 Switches - removal andrefitting 2

Note: Disconnect the battery negative leadbefore removing any switch and reconnect thelead after refitting the switch.

Steering column multifunctionswitch

Early type switches incorporatingdirection indicator, horn and headlightmain beam control1 Undo and remove the screws securing thetwo halves of the steering column shroud tothe column and lift off the two halves.2 Undo and remove the two screws securingthe switch retaining strap and lift the switchoff the column.3 Disconnect the wiring harness connectorunder the parcel shell and lift away the switch.4 Refitting is the reverse sequence toremoval.

Later type switches incorporatingdirection indicator, horn, headlightmain beam and windscreenwasher/wiper control5 Undo and remove the retaining screws andlift off the two halves of the steering columnshroud (see illustration).6 Refer to Chapter 10 and remove thesteering wheel.7 Disconnect the two switch multiplugconnectors under the parcel shelf (seeillustration).8 Undo and remove the retaining screw andlift out the direction indicator cancelling block.9 Slacken the switch clamp screw and slidethe switch off the end of the steering column.10 If it is wished to renew either of theswitches they may be renewed as a completeassembly or individually. If they are to berenewed individually, it will be necessary todrill out the two rivets securing thewindscreen washer/wiper switch to themounting plate and unwrap the insulatingtape securing the harness together.11 Refitting is the reverse sequence toremoval. Ensure that the striker dog on thenylon switch centre is in line with and adjacentto the direction indicator switch stalk.

Facia switches12 Undo and remove the lower heaterretaining nut and the two screws securing thefront of the heater to the parcel shelf. Lowerthe heater to the floor. Note: On models fittedwith a centre console, it will be necessary toremove the console and facia gloveboxretaining screws to allow the console to bemoved if necessary for access.13 On models fitted with toggle switches,unscrew the locking ring securing the switchto the panel and withdraw the switch to therear. Make a note of the electrical connectionsat the rear of the switch and disconnect them.


12

4.5 Remove the securing screws and liftoff the steering column shroud

4.7 Steering column multifunction switch

1 Cancelling ring drive block2 Clamp screw

3 Multi-plug connectors4 Insulating tape

5 Screw6 Rivet

14 On models fitted with rocker switchessimply push the switch out of the panel anddetach the multiplug (see illustration).15 In both cases refitting is the reversesequence to removal.

Door pillar switch16 The interior light door pillar switches areretained by either being a push fit in thepillars, or by a single securing screw. Prise outthe push fit type or remove the screw,disconnect the electrical lead and lift away theswitch.

17 The switch is refitted in the reverse way.

Stop light switchNote: The stop lights are operated eitherhydraulically by a pressure sensitive switchincorporated in the braking system orelectrically by an on/off switch mounted abovethe brake pedal.

Hydraulically operated type18 Remove the brake master cylinder fillercap and place a piece of polythene over thefiller neck. Now refit the cap. This will preventloss of hydraulic fluid when the stop lightswitch is removed.19 Lift up the rubber cover, if fitted, anddisconnect the two wires from the stop lightswitch located on the right-hand side of thefront subframe beneath the flywheel housing(see illustration).20 Using a large socket and extension bar,remove the switch from the pipe connector.21 Refitting the switch is the reversesequence to removal. If precautions were

taken to prevent fluid loss, it should not benecessary to bleed the hydraulic system.However, if the brake pedal now feels spongy,bleed the system as described in Chapter 9.

Electrically operated type22 Disconnect the two wires at the switch,accessible from below the parcel shelf.23 Undo and remove the locknut and thenwithdraw the switch from its mountingbracket.24 Refitting is the reverse sequence toremoval. Adjust the position of the switch andlocknuts so that the stop lights operate after6.3 mm of brake pedal travel.

Ignition switch25 Undo and remove the securing screwsand lift off the two halves of the steeringcolumn shroud.

26 Disconnect the ignition switch multiplugconnector (see illustration).27 Inspect the top of the ignition switchhousing, and if a small screw is present,unscrew it. The ignition switch can now bewithdrawn from the steering lock housing.28 If a small retaining screw is not visible,then the ignition switch is of the sealed typeand can only be removed with the steeringlock housing as a complete assembly. Thisprocedure is described fully in Chapter 10Section 24.29 Refitting the ignition switch is the reversesequence to removal.

Reversing light switch (manual transmission models)Note: The following procedures apply to laterMini Saloon models having reversing lightsincorporated in the rear light clusters. The


4.14 Removal of rocker type facia switch

A Multi-plug connector B Switch retaining tabs

4.19 Hydraulic stop light switch removal

1 Rubber cover (wherefitted)

2 Electrical leads3 Stop light switch

4.26 The later type ignition/starter switch

1 Steering column shroud2 Shroud retaining screw

3 Ignition switch securingscrew

4 Ignition switch5 Multiplug connector

Tape the wiring to the doorpillar, to prevent it fallingback into the pillar.Alternatively, tie a piece of

string to the wiring to retrieve it.

switch is located in the gearchange remotecontrol housing and is actuated by thegearchange lever when reverse is selected.30 Chock the rear wheels then jack up thefront of the car and support it on axle stands(see “Jacking and vehicle support”).31 Working underneath the car, disconnectthe two switch wires, slacken the locknut andunscrew the switch from the remote controlhousing.32 Refitting is the reverse sequence toremoval.33 Adjustment is carried out as follows. Withthe wires disconnected, screw the switch intothe housing until slight resistance is felt.34 Connect the wires, select reverse gearand switch on the ignition. Continue screwingthe switch in until the reversing lights justcome on and then screw the switch in afurther quarter of a turn.35 Tighten the locknut and check that thereversing lights are illuminated with the gearlever in reverse and extinguished in all othergear positions. Lower the car to the ground oncompletion.

Reversing light switch(automatic transmission models)36 Refer to Chapter 7B.

Starter inhibitor switch(automatic transmission models)37 Refer to Chapter 7B.

5 Bulbs (exterior lights) -renewal 1

Note: With all light bulbs, remember that ifthey have just been in use, they may be veryhot. Switch off the power before renewing abulb. With quartz halogen bulbs (headlightsand similar applications), use a tissue or cleancloth when handling the bulb; do not touchthe bulb glass with the fingers. Even smallquantities of grease from the fingers will causeblackening and premature failure. If a bulb isaccidentally touched, clean it with methylatedspirit and a clean rag.

Headlight1 Either sealed beam or renewable bulb lightunits are fitted to all Minis, depending onmodel type and year of manufacture (seeillustration).2 To remove the headlight unit on Clubmanand 1275 GT models, undo and remove thefour screws and lift off the grille panel

extension around the light unit. On all othermodels undo and remove the outer rimsecuring screw and ease the bottom of theouter rim forwards, lift it up and off theretaining lugs at the top of the light unit (seeillustrations).3 Proceed as follows according to light unittype.

Sealed beam type4 Undo and remove the three small inner rimsecuring screws and withdraw the inner rim(see illustrations). Lift out the light unit.


125.2a On Clubman models remove the grille

panel extension foe access to theheadlight

5.1 Headlight bulb assemblies

1 Outer rim retaining screw2 Outer rim3 Inner rim retaining screw4 Inner rim5 Light unit6 Three-pin connector7 Headlight bulb

8 Sidelight bulb (used withsealed beam light unit)

9 Sidelight bulb (used with bulbtype light unit)

10 Vertical adjustment screw11 Horizontal adjustment screw

5 Withdraw the three pin connector from therear of the reflector and lift away the completeunit (see illustration).6 Refitting is the reverse sequence toremoval.

Renewable bulb type7 Undo and remove the three small inner rimsecuring screws and withdraw the inner rim.Lift out the light unit.8 Withdraw the three pin connector from therear of the reflector and disengage the springclip from the reflector lugs. Lift away the bulb.Note the locating pip on the reflector andmating indentation in the bulb rim.9 Refitting is the reverse sequence toremoval. Ensure that the indentation in thebulb rim locates over the locating pip on thereflector.

Alternative renewable bulb type10 On certain models an alternative bulb typeheadlight assembly of slightly different designto the standard unit may be fitted (seeillustration).11 To renew a bulb on these units, firstremove the outer rim as described inparagraph 2.12 Carefully pull the three adjusting screwsone at a time out of their locations and lift outthe reflector.13 Withdraw the three pin connector from therear of the reflector and disengage the springclip from the reflector lugs. Lift away the bulb.Note the position of the projection on the bulbrim in relation to the bulb locator and ensurethat the new bulb is fitted correctly.14 Refitting is the reverse sequence toremoval. Ensure that the projection on thebulb rim is correctly engaged with the bulblocator.

Auxiliary driving light - Cooper models15 Undo and remove the screw and releasethe clamp securing the reflector to the lightunit.16 Withdraw the reflector and disconnect thebulb wiring connector.17 Disengage the spring clip from thereflector lugs and lift away the bulb.18 Refitting is the reverse sequence toremoval.


5.2b On non-Clubman models, undo theouter rim securing screw . . .

5.2c . . . and lift the rim off the upper lugs 5.4a Unscrew the inner rim securingscrews . . .

5.4b . . . and lift off the inner rim 5.5 Detach the electrical connector and liftaway the light unit

5.10 Alternative type headlight assembly

1 Outer rim2 Adjusting screws3 Three pin connector4 Sidelight bulb5 Spring clip

6 Bulb locator7 Position of bulb locator for

right-hand drive vehicles8 Position of bulb locator for

left-hand drive vehicles

9 Projection on bulb10 Horizontal adjustment

screw11 Vertical adjustment screw

Front sidelight

All models except Clubman and 1275 GT19 Undo and remove the headlight outer rimsecuring screw and ease the bottom of theouter rim forwards, lift it up and off theretaining lugs at the top of the light unit.20 Undo and remove the three smallheadlight inner rim securing screws andwithdraw the inner rim. Lift out the light unit.21 Where a sealed beam headlight unit isfitted, disconnect the headlight bulb wiringconnector and remove the sidelight bulb fromthe wiring connector block; it will be either apush-fit or bayonet type fitting.22 Where a renewable bulb type light unit isfitted, withdraw the sidelight bulbholder fromthe rear of the reflector. Remove the bayonetfitting type bulb from the holder.23 Refit the bulb and headlight unit using thereverse sequence to removal.

Clubman and 1275 GT models24 Undo and remove the two screws thatsecure the lens to the light body. Carefully liftaway the lenses (see illustration).25 Push in the bayonet fitting bulb slightlyand turn it anti-clockwise to remove.

26 Refitting is the reverse sequence toremoval. Take care not to over tighten the twolens retaining screws as the lenses can beeasily cracked.

Front direction indicator

All models except Clubman and 1275 GT27 To renew a bulb, very carefully fold backthe rubber flange with the aid of a screwdriverand remove the plated rim and lens (seeillustrations). On later models the lens issecured by two screws.28 Push the bulb in slightly and turn it anti-clockwise to remove it (see illustration).29 Refitting is the reverse of the removalprocedure, but ensure that the plated rim issecured all round by the rubber flange, ifapplicable.

Clubman and 1275 GT models30 The procedure is the same as describedpreviously for the front sidelight bulb.

Front direction indicator siderepeater31 Access to the rear of the light and thebulbholder is gained through the front wheelarch (see illustration).32 Push the bulbholder in and rotate it, thiswill release it from the rear of the light unit andallow the holder and electrical lead to bedrawn down out of the wheel arch.33 The push-fit bulb can now be removedfrom the holder.34 Refitting is the reverse of removal.

Stop/tail and rear directionindicator35 Undo the three screws to release the lightlenses (see illustrations).36 The direction indicator bulb is fitted in thetop compartment and the stop/tail bulb in thelower compartment (or centre compartmenton later models).37 Both bulbs have bayonet fixings; toremove push in slightly, and rotate anti-clockwise.38 Refitting is the reverse sequence to removal.Take care not to overtighten the lens securingscrews as the lenses can easily be cracked.


12

5.24 Undo the two screws and lift off thelens

5.27a Fold back the rubber flange andremove the rim . . .

5.27b . . . and lens

5.28 Push and turn the bulb anti-clockwiseto remove

5.31 Direction indicator side repeaterdetails

1 Light unit2 Bulb holder

3 Bulb 5.35a Rear light cluster lens removed forbulb renewal - Saloon models

5.35b Rear light bulb renewal - Estate, Vanand Pick-up models

1 Directionindicator bulb

2 Stop/tail bulb3 Securing screws

Reversing light39 On later models the rear light clusters areincreased in size to accommodate a reversinglight bulb.40 The reversing light bulb is fitted to thelower of the three compartments in the rearlight clusters and its renewal is the same asfor the stop/tail and direction indicator bulbsdescribed previously.

Rear foglight41 Access to the bulb is gained by removingthe two lens cover screws and pulling off thelens.42 The bayonet-fit bulb can now be removedfrom the holder by pushing in slightly, androtating anti-clockwise.43 Refitting is the reverse sequence toremoval.

Number plate light

Saloon models44 Undo and remove the lens securingscrews and carefully ease the lens and bulbholder out of the light unit. In some cases itwill be found that the lens and bulb holdercannot be withdrawn due to the wires foulingthe light unit. If this happens, open the boot

lid, remove the three retaining screws and liftoff the light unit. The lens and bulb holder cannow be removed (see illustration).45 The festoon type bulb is removed bysimply withdrawing it from the bulb holdercontacts.46 Refitting is the reverse sequence toremoval.

Estate, Van and Pick-up models47 Undo and remove the retaining screw andlift off the cover and lens (see illustration).48 Remove the bulbs by turning anti-clockwise and lifting out (see illustration).49 Refitting is the reverse sequence toremoval.

6 Bulbs (interior lights) -renewal 1

Note: With all light bulbs, remember that ifthey have just been in use, they may be veryhot. Switch off the power before renewing abulb.

Interior courtesy light - early type1 Carefully squeeze the two sides of thecourtesy light plastic lens together until theretaining lugs of the lens are clear of thesockets in the light base (see illustration).2 Draw the lens from the light base.3 The festoon bulb may now be detachedfrom the contact blades.4 Refitting the bulb and lens is the reversesequence to removal.

Interior courtesy light andglovebox light - later type5 Release the light unit by carefully prisingout the end furthest from the switch.6 The bayonet-fit bulb can now be removedfrom the bulb holder by pushing in slightly,and rotating anti-clockwise.7 Refitting is the reverse sequence toremoval.

Footwell light8 Release the light unit from its mountingbelow the facia.9 The festoon bulb may now be detachedfrom the contact blades.


Switch illumination11 To renew a bulb in the illuminatedswitches fitted to later models, insert a smallscrewdriver under the notch on both sides ofthe switch rocker. Depress the notch slightlyand lever off the rocker. The bulb may beunscrewed for renewal using the outer plasticcasing of a wiring connector which is a snugfit over the bulb lens.12 Refit the bulb and push the switch rockerback into place.

Instrument panel illuminationand warning lights

Models with central instrument panel13 Access to the instrument panel warninglights and panel illumination lights is gainedfrom the engine compartment by withdrawingthe push type bulb holders from the rear ofthe speedometer and instruments.14 On later models it may be helpful toremove the air cleaner assembly as describedin the relevant Part of Chapter 4 to providegreater access.

Models with offset instrument panel15 On models having an instrument panel infront of the driver, access to the bulbs isthrough an access panel beneath the parcelshelf and from the side of the panel after thefacia trim has been eased back. Alternatively,for greater access, the instrument panel maybe removed as described in Section 15.16 The bulb holders are a push fit in the rearof the instrument panel and the capless bulbsare also a push fit in the holders.

7 Headlight beam alignment -checking and adjusting 1

1 The headlights may be adjusted for bothvertical and horizontal beam positions bymeans of the two adjusting screws. On thestandard fitting sealed beam and bulb typeheadlight units, the upper spring-loadedscrew adjusts the vertical position and theside spring-loaded screw adjusts the


5.44 Removal of the number plate lensand bulb holder on Saloon models

5.47 On Estate, Van and Pick-up modelslift off the cover and lens . . .

5.48 . . . and remove the bulbs by turningthem anti-clockwise

6.1 Interior light bulb renewal

1 Lens 2 Bulb

horizontal position (see illustration). On thealternative type headlight units, the twodiametrically opposite screws are used foradjustment. The upper screw adjusts thehorizontal setting and the lower screw adjuststhe vertical setting.2 The lights should be set so that on full orhigh beam, the beams are set slightly belowparallel with a level road surface. Do notforget that the beam position is affected byhow the car is normally loaded for night

driving, and set the beams with the car loadedto this position.3 Although this adjustment can beapproximately set at home, it isrecommended that beam alignment is becarried out by a Rover dealer or otherspecialist heaving the necessary opticalalignment equipment.

8 Dim-dip lighting systemcomponents - removal andrefitting

1Dim-dip unit

Removal1 Remove the instrument panel as describedin Section 15.2 Disconnect the dim-dip unit from the wiringloom connector (see illustration).


Dim-dip resistor

Removal4 Disconnect the battery negative lead.

5 Open the bonnet, and unclip the wiringloom connector on the right-hand side of theengine compartment (see illustration).6 Pull the resistor plug from the connector,and release the wiring loom.7 Unscrew the mounting bolt, and withdrawthe resistor and mounting plate.


9 Horn - removal, refitting andadjustment 2

Removal and refitting1 The horn is located in the enginecompartment and is attached to a bracket,which is in turn secured to the front bodypanel by two small nuts and bolts (seeillustration).2 To remove the unit, disconnect the hornwiring then undo the retaining bracket nutsand bolts. Remove the horn, complete withbracket, then remove the bracket. The horn isnot repairable and should not be dismantled.3 Refitting is the reverse sequence toremoval.

Adjustment4 On early type horns an adjustment isprovided to compensate for wear of themoving parts.5 Adjustment is by means of a screw on thebroad rim of the horn nearly opposite the twoterminals. Do not confuse this with the largescrew in the centre.6 Turn the adjustment screw anti-clockwiseuntil the horn just fails to sound. Then turn thescrew a quarter of a turn clockwise, which isthe optimum setting.


12

9.1 Horn location showing electrical leadsand mounting nuts

7.1 Headlight vertical position A and horizontal position Badjusting screws

8.2 Location of dim-dip lighting unit (1) behind the instrument panel

8.5 Location of dim-dip resistor

1 Wiring loomconnector

2 Resistor plug

3 Wiring loom clip4 Mounting plate

bolt

10 Windscreen wiper arms -removal and refitting 1

Removal1 Before removing a wiper arm, turn thewindscreen wiper switch on and off, to ensurethat the arms are in their normal parkedposition with the blades parallel to the bottomof the windscreen.2 To remove the arm, pivot the arm back andpull the wiper arm head off the splined drive,at the same time easing back the clip with ascrewdriver (see illustration).

Refitting3 When refitting an arm, place it so it is in thecorrect relative parked position and thenpress the arm head onto the splined drive untilthe retaining clip clicks into place.

11 Windscreen wiper motor -removal and refitting 3

Removal1 Remove the wiper arms from the spindlesas described in Section 10.2 Disconnect the battery negative lead.3 Withdraw the electrical cable terminal

connector from the motor, and if a separateearth wire is fitted, detach this from the wingvalance.4 Undo the nut securing the cable rack guidetube to the wiper motor gearbox (seeillustration).5 Undo and remove the two motor strapretaining screws and lift off the strap.6 Carefully withdraw the motor assemblypulling the cable rack from the guide tubes.

Refitting7 To refit the motor, lightly lubricate the cablerack with a general purpose grease.8 Enter the cable rack into the guide tubesand carefully push it through, ensuring that itengages the wheelbox gear teeth.9 Refit the motor retaining strap and theguide tube retaining nut.

10 Reconnect the electrical leads and thebattery terminal.11 Switch on the wipers, check the functionof the motor and then turn it off. With themotor now in the “park” position, refit thewiper arms.

12 Windscreen wiper motor -dismantling and reassembly 3

Dismantling1 Due to the limited availability of spare parts,the only repair which can be effectivelyundertaken on the motor is the renewal of thebrushes and the limit switch. Anything moreserious than this will mean exchanging the


10.2 The wiper arm is a push fit on thewiper spindle splines

11.4 Cable rack guide tube retaining nut Aand motor strap retaining screws B

12.2 Exploded view of the windscreen wiper motor and gearbox

1 Cover screw2 Gearbox cover3 Circlip4 Plain washers5 Connecting rod6 Shaft and gear7 Cross-head and rack8 Gearbox9 Limit switch screw

10 Armature thrust screw11 Dished washer12 Limit switch assembly13 Brush gear14 Bush gear screw15 Armature16 Yoke assembly17 Yoke bolts

complete motor or having a repair undertakenby an automobile electrician.2 With the motor removed from the car asdescribed in Section 11, undo and remove thefour gearbox cover retaining screws and liftaway the cover (see illustration). Release thecirclip and flat washer securing theconnecting rod to the crankpin on the shaftand gear. Lift away the connecting rodfollowed by the second flat washer.3 Raise the circlip and flat washer securingthe shaft and gear to the gearbox body.4 De-burr the gearshaft and lift away thegear, making a careful note of the location ofthe dished washer.5 Scribe a mark on the yoke assembly andgearbox to ensure correct reassembly, andunscrew the two yoke bolts from the motoryoke assembly. Part the yoke assembly,including armature, from the gearbox body.As the yoke assembly has residual magnetismensure that the yoke is kept well away frommetallic dust.6 Unscrew the two screws securing thebrushgear and the terminal and switchassembly and remove both the assemblies.7 Inspect the brushes for excessive wear. Ifthe main brushes are worn to less than theminimum specified length, or the narrowsection of the third brush is worn to the fullwidth of the brush, fit a new brushgearassembly. Ensure that the three brushesmove freely in their boxes.8 If either the brushes or the limit switch areto be renewed on early motor assemblies, itwill be necessary to unsolder the wires at theswitch and then re-solder the new wires. Onlater types the wires are retained by Lucarconnectors which are simply detached. In allcases make a note of the wire positionsbefore disconnecting.

Reassembly9 Reassembly of the windscreen wiper motoris the reverse sequence to dismantling.

13 Windscreen wiper wheelbox- removal and refitting 3

Removal1 Remove the windscreen wiper motor asdescribed in Section 11.2 Carefully lift back the engine compartmentbulkhead insulation to provide access to thewheelboxes.3 Undo and remove the retaining nut andspacer from each wheelbox (see illustration).4 Slacken the nuts that clamp the guidetubes between the wheelbox plates and thenlift out the guide tubes.5 The wheelboxes can now be lifted out.6 With the wheelboxes removed, withdrawthe wheelbox plates and lift out the spindleand gear. Examine the gear teeth for wear andrenew as necessary.

Refitting7 Refitting is the reverse sequence toremoval; bearing in mind the following points.a) Lightly lubricate the spindles and gear

teeth with a general purpose greaseb) Do not tighten the nuts that clamp the

guide tubes between the wheelbox platesuntil the motor and cable rack have beenrefitted

c) Ensure that the bend radius on the guidetube nearest to the motor is not less than230.0 mm

14 Windscreen washer pump -removal and refitting 1

Manual pump - early models

Removal1 Disconnect the battery negative lead.2 Undo and remove the retaining nut at therear of the heater and the two screws securingthe front of the heater to the parcel shelf.Lower the heater to the floor.3 Unscrew the locking ring securing the washerpump to the centre of the switch panel and pullthe pump out from the rear of the panel.

4 Detach the two water hoses from the rear ofthe pump and lift it away.


Electric pump - early models

Removal6 Disconnect the battery negative lead.7 Refer to Chapter 4A or 4B as applicableand remove the air cleaner.8 Disconnect the two electrical wires and thetwo water hoses from the pump.9 Undo and remove the two securing screwsand lift off the pump.

Refitting10 Refitting is the reverse sequence toremoval. Make sure that the water hoses areconnected to the correct outlets. Arrows on thepump body indicate the direction of water flow.

Electric pump and reservoir -later models

Removal11 On later models the washer pump andreservoir are located in the luggagecompartment. The pump is clipped into theside of the reservoir (see illustration).


12

13.3 Windscreen wiper wheelbox assembly

1 Retaining nut and spacer2 Wheelbox body

3 Wheelbox plate retainingscrew

4 Wiper rack guide tubes

5 Spindle and gear6 Lower plate

12 To renew either item, first disconnect thebattery negative lead.13 Carefully prise the wiring connector fromthe pump.14 Pull the reservoir upwards from itsretaining bracket. Drain the fluid into acontainer.15 Release the washer tube from the pump.The reservoir can now be removed completely.16 Detach the pump from the reservoir.

Refitting17 Refitting is the reverse sequence toremoval, noting the following:a) Use a new pump seal. Fit the seal in the

reservoir and lubricate it before refittingthe pump.

b) If the washer tube is difficult to replaceonto the pump, soften it by immersing itin hot water for a few minutes.

c) Top-up the reservoir with reference to“Weekly Checks” and test the operationof the washers.

15 Instrument panel - removaland refitting 2

Models with central instrumentpanel (except Mini 850)

Removal1 Disconnect the battery negative lead.2 Carefully ease out the trim panels at therear of the facia on either side of theinstrument panel.3 Fold back the parcel shelf cover around thefront of the instrument panel.4 Slacken the nut securing the heater unit tothe rear mounting bracket. Undo and removethe two screws securing the front of theheater to the parcel shelf and lower the unit tothe floor.

5 Undo and remove the screws securing theinstrument panel to the facia.6 Working in the engine compartment,remove the air cleaner as described in therelevant Part of Chapter 4.7 Unscrew the knurled nut securing thespeedometer cable to the rear of thespeedometer and withdraw the cable.8 Remove the clip that secures the oilpressure gauge pipe to the enginecompartment bulkhead.9 From inside the car draw the instrumentpanel away from the facia and disconnect thewires and bulb holders from the rear of theinstruments. Label each wire as it is removedto prevent confusion when refitting.10 Unscrew the union nut and release the oilpipe from the rear of the oil pressure gauge.11 Unscrew the knurled retaining nuts and liftout the instruments.12 Undo and remove the two securingscrews and lift out the speedometer andsealing ring.13 If required, the fuel gauge and voltagestabiliser may be removed from the rear of thespeedometer after removing the retainingscrews and nuts.

Refitting14 Reassembly and refitting of theinstruments and panel is the reversesequence to dismantling and removal.

Mini 850 models

Removal15 Disconnect the battery negative lead.16 Working in the engine compartment,remove the air cleaner as described in therelevant Part of Chapter 4.17 Withdraw the sound insulation fromspeedometer aperture.18 Unscrew the knurled retaining nut anddetach the speedometer cable from the rearof the speedometer (see illustration).

19 Disconnect the wires from the fuel gaugeand voltage stabiliser. Label each wire as it isremoved to prevent confusion when refitting.20 Note the locations of the bulb holders andremove them from the rear of thespeedometer.21 Disconnect the earth wire.22 From inside the car undo and remove thetwo screws securing the speedometer to thecowling and then lift out the speedometer.


Models with offset instrumentpanel

Removal24 Disconnect the battery negative lead.25 Hold both sides of the instrument nacelleand carefully pull it off the instrument cluster(see illustration). On some models thenacelle is secured by screws.26 Remove the upper plastic trim strip togain access to the panel upper retainingscrews.27 Undo and remove the side and upperretaining screws securing the instrument panelto the mounting brackets (see illustrations).


15.25 Remove the instrument clusternacelle

14.11 Washer pump and reservoir locationin the luggage compartment on later

models

1 Filler cap2 Reservoir

3 Pump and wiringmultiplug

15.18 Instrument panel removal - 850 models

1 Retaining screw2 Instrument panel

3 Speedometer cable4 Wiring connectors

5 Bulb holders6 Earth lead

28 Draw the panel outward and detach thespeedometer cable, the wiring multiplugconnector and (where fitted) the two electricalleads at the rear of the tachometer (seeillustrations).29 Carefully lift away the instrument panel,taking care not to damage the printed circuit.

Refitting


Models with wooden facia31 Refer to the removal and refittingprocedures for the wooden facia as describedin Chapter 11, which include details ofinstrument panel removal.

16 Instrument panel -dismantling and reassembly 2

Note: On models fitted with a centrallymounted panel the instruments andcomponents are withdrawn as part of theinstrument panel removal sequence (seeSection 15). The following procedure istherefore applicable to models having an offsetinstrument panel mounted in front of the driver.

Dismantling1 Remove the instrument panel as describedin Section 15.

Fuel and temperature gauge2 Ease off the spring clips securing the

instrument lens glass and carefully removethe glass, sealing rings and printed face plate(see illustration).


12

15.27a Undo the side . . . 15.27b . . . and upper retaining screws 15.28a Detach the speedometer cable . . .

15.28b . . . and the multiplug connector,then lift away the instrument panel

16.2 Exploded view of the offset instrument cluster

1 Speedometer lens andfaceplate assembly

2 Speedometer unit

3 Fuel/temperature gauge lensand faceplate assembly

4 Lens securing clips5 Tachometer assembly (where

fitted)

6 Fuel/temperature gauge facing7 Fuel gauge8 Temperature gauge9 Voltage stabiliser10 Panel lamp bulb and holder

11 Fuel/temperature gaugesecuring screws

12 Speedometer securing screws

3 Undo and remove the three small screwsand lift out the instrument facing.4 At the rear of the instrument panel, undoand remove the two screws securing thegauge to the panel body and remove thegauge.

Speedometer5 Ease off the spring clips securing thespeedometer lens glass and carefully removethe glass, sealing rings and printed face plate.6 At the rear of the instrument panel undoand remove the two screws securing thespeedometer to the panel body and removethe speedometer.

Tachometer7 Detach the voltage stabiliser lead and bulbholder from the rear of the tachometer.8 Carefully prise up the pegs securing theprinted circuit to the tachometer body and liftthe unit away.

Printed circuit and voltage stabiliser9 Pull the voltage stabiliser carefully out of itslocation in the printed circuit at the rear of theinstrument panel (see illustration).10 Withdraw the panel and warning light bulbholders.11 Where fitted, undo and remove the threescrews and the voltage stabiliser tagconnections for the tachometer.12 Undo and remove the four screwssecuring the fuel and temperature gauges.13 Carefully prise out the plastic pegssecuring the printed circuit to the instrumentpanel and lift off the printed circuit.

Reassembly14 In all cases reassembly is the reverse ofthe dismantling sequence.

17 Speedometer cable - removaland refitting 3

Removal

Models with central instrument panel1 Disconnect the battery negative lead.2 Working in the engine compartment, detachthe speedometer cable from the rear of thespeedometer by unscrewing the knurledretaining nut and pulling the cable into theengine compartment.3 Release the cable from the cable clip on thebulkhead

Models with offset instrument panel4 Disconnect the battery negative lead.5 Hold both sides of the instrument nacelleand carefully pull it off the instrument panel.On some models the nacelle is secured byscrews.6 Remove the upper trim strip to gain accessto the upper instrument panel retainingscrews.7 Undo and remove the side and upperretaining screws securing the instrumentpanel to the mounting brackets.8 Draw the panel outward slightly, depressthe lug on the side of the speedometer cableconnector and withdraw the cable off the endof the speedometer.9 Pull the cable through the bulkheadgrommet and into the engine compartment.

All models10 Working under the car disconnect thecable from the transmission. To gain access,work through the aperture above the left-handdriveshaft.11 Should the cable securing nut be tight toturn by hand, remove the bolt that secures the

speedometer drive and withdraw the cablecomplete with the drive assembly. The cablemay then be detached from the driveassembly.

Refitting12 Refitting the speedometer cable is thereverse sequence to removal but the followingadditional points should be noted:a) If the speedometer drive was removed,

always fit a new joint washer.b) To lubricate the inner cable, withdraw the

inner cable and lightly grease it except for200 mm at the speedometer end. Refitthe inner cable and wipe away anysurplus grease.

18 Radio - removal and refitting 3Note: If the radio incorporates an anti-theftsystem, once the battery has beendisconnected, the radio unit cannot be re-activated until the appropriate security codehas been entered. Do not remove the unitunless the appropriate code is known.

Removal1 De-activate the radio security code (whereapplicable).2 Disconnect the battery negative lead.

Centre console mounted radio3 Removal and refitting of the radio isincluded in the centre console removal andrefitting procedures described in Chapter 11.

1989 onwards models with radiobeneath the facia4 Prise the side covers from the radio, thenloosen the two small screws (seeillustration).


16.9 Offset instrument panel printed circuit connections

1 Voltage stabiliser2 Panel light

3 Fuel andtemperature gaugesecuring screws

4 Printed circuitsecuring stud

5 Printed circuit

18.4 Radio fixings on 1989-on models

1 Side covers2 Retaining screws3 Holding clips

4 Direction of removal5 Multi-plug and aerial lead

5 Press the two screws in to release the radiosecuring clips.6 Push the radio out from behind the facia,and disconnect the wiring connectors andaerial lead.7 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but makesure that the radio is fully engaged with theclips.

1989 onwards models with radio inthe facia8 Two special DIN standard removal tools,available from in-car entertainmentspecialists, are required for removal.9 Where fitted, prise the side covers from theradio.10 Insert the removal tools into the holes oneach side of the radio front plate, and pushthem in until they snap into place.11 Push the tools apart to depress theinternal retaining clips, then pull the toolsoutwards to withdraw the radio.12 Disconnect the wiring connectors and theaerial lead from the rear of the radio. Releasethe removal tools.

13 To refit, reconnect the wiring and aeriallead, push the radio into its aperture until theretaining clips engage and, where applicable,refit the side covers.

Refitting14 Refitting is the reverse sequence toremoval. Where applicable, re-activate thesecurity code on completion.

19 Anti-theft alarm systemcomponents - removal andrefitting

Removal

Electronic control unit (ECU)1 On models fitted with a wooden facia,remove the facia as described in Chapter 11.2 On models without a wooden facia, removethe left-hand fresh air vent assembly asdescribed in Chapter 3, then release the left-hand door seal weatherstrip to gain access to

the bulkhead trim. Remove the two edgeclips, and peel back the bulkhead trim foraccess to the ECU.3 On all models, undo the two ECU retainingscrews and disconnect the wiring multiplugs.4 Cut the cable-ties to release the receiverlead, and remove the ECU.

Bonnet switch5 Open the bonnet, and undo the screwsecuring the switch to the front panel.6 Lift off the switch and disconnect thewiring.

Boot switch7 Open the boot, and disconnect the wiringfrom the switch.8 Undo the switch retaining screw, andremove the switch from its bracket.

Refitting9 Refitting is the reverse sequence toremoval. Secure the receiver lead with newcable-ties when refitting the ECU.


12

Key to wiring diagrams 1 to 9 inclusive

Some of the components listed in this key may not be fitted to individual models

1 Dynamo or alternator2 Control box3 Battery (12 volt)4 Starter solenoid5 Starter motor6 Lighting switch7 Headlight dip switch8 RH headlight9 LH headlight10 Main beam warning light11 RH sidelight/parking light12 LH sidelight/parking light14 Panel lights15 Number plate light(s)16 RH stop and tail light17 LH stop and tail light18 Stop light switch19 Fuse block20 Interior light21 RH door switch(es)22 LH door switch(es)23 Horn(s)24 Horn push25 Flasher unit26 Direction indicator headlight flasher and

dip switch27 Direction indicator warning light(s)28 RH front flasher light29 LH front flasher light

30 RH rear flasher light31 LH rear flasher light32 Heater or fresh-air blower switch33 Heater or fresh-air blower34 Fuel gauge35 Fuel gauge tank unit36 Windscreen wiper switch37 Windscreen wiper motor38 Ignition/starter stitch39 Ignition coil40 Distributor41 Fuel pump42 Oil pressure switch43 Oil pressure gauge or warning light44 Ignition warning light45 Speedometer (headlight flasher switch

on Canadian Mini 1000)46 Water temperature gauge47 Water temperature transmitter49 Reversing light switch50 Reversing light64 Bi-metallic instrument voltage stabiliser67 Line fuse (35 amp)75 Automatic transmission inhibitor switch

(when fitted)77 Windscreen washer motor78 Windscreen washer switch83 Induction heater and thermostat84 Suction chamber heater

95 Tachometer110 RH repeater flasher111 LH repeater flasher115 Rear window demister switch116 Rear window demister unit139 Alternative connections for two-speed

wiper motor and switch150 Rear window demist warning light152 Hazard warning light153 Hazard warning switch154 Hazard warning flasher unit158 Printed circuit instrument panel159 Brake pressure warning light and light

test switch160 Brake pressure failure switch164 Ballast resistor168 Ignition key audible warning buzzer170 RH front side marker light171 LH front side marker light172 RH rear side marker light173 LH rear side marker light198 Driver’s seat belt switch199 Passenger’s seat belt switch200 Passenger’s seat switch201 Seat belt warning gearbox switch202 Seat belt warning light203 Seat belt warning code

Cable colour code

B BlackG GreenK PinkLG Light Green

N BrownO OrangeP PurpleR Red

U BlueW WhiteY Yellow

When a cable has two colour code letters the first denotes the main colour and the second denotes the tracer colour

12•18 Wiring diagrams

Wiring diagram 1 - Mini 850 De Luxe Saloon, Van and Pick-up (with dynamo and toggle type switches)

Wiring diagrams 12•19

12

Wiring diagram 2 - Mini 850 De Luxe Saloon, Van and Pick-up (with alternator and rocker type switches) - pre 1976


Wiring diagram 3 - Mini 1000 Special De Luxe Saloon and Cooper S Mk III (with dynamo and toggle type switches)


12

Wiring diagram 4 - Mini 1000 Special De Luxe Saloon (with alternator and rocker type switches) - pre 1976


Wiring diagram 5 - Mini Clubman Saloon and Estate (with dynamo and toggle type switches)


12

Wiring diagram 6 - Mini Clubman Saloon and Estate (with alternator and rocker type switches) - pre 1976


Wiring diagram 7 - Mini 1275 GT (with dynamo and toggle type switches)


12

Wiring diagram 8 - Mini 1275 GT (with alternator and rocker type switches) - pre 1976

12•26W

iring diagram

s

Wiring diagram 9 - Mini 1000 Saloon (Canada) - pre 1977


12


Some of the components listed in this key may not be fitted to individual models

1 Alternator3 Battery4 Starter solenoid5 Starter motor6 Lighting switch7 Headlight dip switch8 Headlight dip beam9 Headlight main beam10 Main beam warning light11 Sidelight - RH12 Sidelight - LH14 Panel illumination lights15 Number plate illumination lights16 Stop lights17 Tail light - RH18 Stop light switch (hydraulic)18 Stop light switch (mechanical)19 Fuse box20 Interior light21 Interior light switch (door)22 Tail light - LH23 Horn24 Horn-push25 Indicator flasher unit26 Indicator switch27 Indicator warning light28 Front indicator light - RH29 Front indicator light - LH30 Rear indicator light - RH31 Rear indicator light - LH32 Heater switch33 Heater motor

34 Fuel level indicator35 Fuel level indicator tank unit37 Windscreen wiper motor38 Ignition switch39 Ignition coil40 Distributor42 Oil pressure switch43 Oil pressure warning light44 No charge warning light45 Headlight flasher switch46 Water temperature indicator47 Water temperature transmitter49 Reversing light switch50 Reversing light56 Clock (if fitted)57 Cigar lighter (if fitted)60 Radio64 Voltage stabiliser67 Line fuse75 Automatic transmission inhibitor switch77 Windscreen washer motor82 Switch illumination light83 Induction heater and thermostat84 Suction chamber heater95 Tachometer110 Indicator repeater lights115 Heated rear screen switch116 Heated rear screen118 Combined windscreen washer and

wiper switch132 Brake warning light150 Heated rear screen warning light

152 Hazard warning light153 Hazard warning switch154 Hazard warning flasher unit158 Printed circuit instrument panel159 Brake failure test switch and warning

light160 Brake pressure differential switch164 Resistive cable165 Handbrake switch166 Handbrake warning light168 Ignition key warning buzzer169 Buzzer door switch170 RH front side marker light171 LH front side marker light172 RH rear side marker light173 LH rear side marker light198 Driver’s seat belt switch199 Passenger’s seat belt switch200 Passenger seat switch201 Seat belt warning gearbox switch202 Seat belt warning light203 Blocking diode - seat belt warning208 Cigar lighter illumination210 Panel illumination rheostat211 Heater control illumination286 Rear fog guard switch287 Rear fog guard warning light288 Rear fog guard light291 Brake warning relay314 Clock illumination

Cable colour code

When a cable has two colour code letters the first denotes the main colour and the second denotes the tracer colour.

B BlackG GreenK PinkLG Light Green

N BrownO OrangeP PurpleR Red

U BlueW WhiteY Yellow

12•28W

iring diagram

s

Wiring diagram 10 - Mini 850 Saloon, Van and Pick-up - 1976 onwards

Wiring d

iagrams 12•29

12

Wiring diagram 11 - Mini 1000 Saloon (triple instrument facia) - 1976 onwards (UK, Europe, Sweden); and Mini Special (triple instrument facia) - 1976 to 77

12•30W

iring diagram

s

Wiring diagram 12 - Mini Clubman, Estate and 1275 GT - 1976 onwards

Wiring d

iagrams 12•31

12

Wiring diagram 13 - Mini Special - 1977 to 78

12•32W

iring diagram

s

Wiring diagram 14 - Mini 1000 (Canada) - 1977 onwards

Wiring d

iagrams 12•33

12

Wiring diagram 15 - Mini Special - 1979 onwards


Master key to wiring diagrams 16 and 17

No Description1 Alternator2 Battery3 Starter motor solenoid4 Starter motor5 Lighting switch6 Headlight dip switch7 Headlight dip beam8 Headlight main beam9 Main beam warning light10 Sidelight RH11 Sidelight LH12 Panel illumination lights13 Number plate illumination lights14 Stop-lights15 Tail-lights RH16 Stop-light switch (mechanical)17 Fusebox18 Interior light19 Interior light switch (door)20 Tail light LH21 Horn22 Horn push23 Direction indicator flasher unit24 Direction indicator switch25 Direction indicator warning light26 Front direction indicator light - RH27 Front direction indicator light LH28 Rear direction indicator light - RH29 Rear direction indicator light LH30 Heater switch31 Heater motor32 Fuel level indicator33 Fuel level indicator tank unit34 Windscreen wiper motor

No Description35 Ignition/start switch36 Ignition coil37 Distributor38 Oil pressure switch39 Oil pressure warning light40 No charge warning light41 Headlight flash switch42 Water temperature indicator (when fitted)43 Water temperature transmitter (when fitted)44 Reverse light switch45 Reverse light46 Radio (when fitted)47 Voltage stabiliser48 Line fuse49 Automatic transmission starter inhibitor switch (when fitted)50 Windscreen washer motor51 Induction heater and thermostat (when fitted)52 Carburettor dashpot heater (when fitted)53 Tachometer (when fitted)54 Direction indicator repeater lights (when fitted)55 Heated rear screen switch56 Heated rear screen57 Combined windscreen washer and wiper switch58 Hazard warning light59 Hazard warning switch60 Hazard warning flasher unit61 Printed circuit instrument panel62 Brake low fluid level warning light and test switch63 Ballast resistor (cable)64 Rear fog-guard switch65 Rear fog-guard warning light66 Rear fog-guard light67 Brake fluid level sensor switch68 Speakers (when fitted)

Cable colour code

BL BlueBK BlackBR BrownG Green

GR SlateLG Light greenO OrangeP Pink

PU PurpleR RedW WhiteY Yellow

When a cable has two colour code letters, the first denotes the main colour and the second denotes the tracer colour


12

Wiring diagram 16 - all 1984-on carburettor models with single instrument pack


Wiring diagram 17 - all 1984-on carburettor models with multiple instrument pack


12

Key to wiring diagram 18

No Description No Description

1 Direction indicator unit2 Direction indicator switch3 Hazard warning switch4 Hazard warning unit5 Hazard warning light6 RH front direction indicator7 RH side repeater light8 RH rear direction indicator9 LH front direction indicator10 LH side repeater light11 LH rear direction indicator12 Automatic transmission starter inhibitor switch13 Distributor14 Ignition coil15 Starter relay16 Ignition switch17 Starter motor solenoid18 Ballast resistor19 In-line fuse20 Fuse block21 Stop-light switch22 Dim/dip resistor23 Heated rear window switch24 Heater motor25 Reversing light switch26 Interior light27 RH front door switch28 Fuel tank sender unit29 Radio - single speaker30 Radio/cassette player31 RH stop light32 RH sidelight33 LH sidelight34 Headlight main beam35 Headlight dip beam36 Brake failure light test switch37 Ignition warning light38 LH indicator warning light39 RH indicator warning light

40 Main beam warning light41 Coolant temperature gauge42 Fuel gauge43 Rear foglight warning light44 Panel lights45 Heater switch46 Horn switch47 Voltage stabiliser48 Battery49 Lighting switch50 Headlight dipswitch51 Number plate illumination lights52 RH tail light53 LH tail light54 Horn55 Windscreen wiper motor56 Headlight flasher switch57 Rear foglight switch58 Windscreen washer motor59 Heated rear window element60 LH front door switch61 Wash/wipe switch62 Alternator63 Coolant thermistor64 Oil pressure switch65 Brake fluid level switch66 Oil pressure warning light67 Tachometer68 RH/single door speaker69 LH front door speaker70 LH stop light71 Rear foglight72 Dim/dip relay73 LH reversing light74 RH reversing light75 Emission control valve switch76 Heated rear window warning light77 Vacuum solenoid valve

Cable colour code

When a cable has two colour code letters, the first denotes the main colour and the second the tracer

Symbols used

1 Fuse

2 Sealed joint

3 Earth connection

BK BlackBL BlueBR BrownG GreenGR SlateLG Light green

O OrangeP PinkPU PurpleR RedW WhiteY Yellow


Wiring diagram 18 - 1988-on carburettor models


12


No Description No Description

1 Battery2 Lighting3 Dip switch4 Dipped beam headlight5 Main beam headlight6 RH sidelight7 LH sidelight8 Number plate illumination light9 RH tail light10 Brake light switch11 LH tail light12 Horn13 Horn switch14 Direction indicator switch15 RH front direction indicator light16 LH front direction indicator light17 Heater switch18 Heater motor19 Windscreen wiper motor2û Ignition switch21 Headlight flasher switch22 Rear foglight switch23 Direction indicator/hazard warning light unit24 Automatic transmission selector indicator light25 Windscreen washer pump26 Heated rear window switch27 Heated rear window element28 Hazard warning light29 Hazard warning light switch3û Auxiliary cooling fan31 Purge valve32 Fusible links33 LH side repeater light34 RH side repeater light35 Driver’s door interior light switch36 Passenger door interior light switch37 Dim-dip resistor38 Auxiliary cooling fan switch39 Alternator40 Starter relay41 Ignition coil42 Crankshaft sensor43 Throttle potentiometer44 Coolant temperature sensor45 Fuel pump relay46 Main relay47 Manifold PTC heater relay48 Inertia switch

49 Fuel sender unit50 Fuel pump51 Relay module52 Automatic transmission starter inhibitor switch53 Accelerator pedal switch54 Diagnostic connector55 Stepper motor56 Manifold PTC heater57 Oil pressure switch58 Brake fluid level switch59 Ignition/charging warning light60 Oil pressure warning light61 Brake system warning light62 Tachometer63 Coolant temperature gauge64 Fuel gauge65 Main beam warning light66 LH indicator warning light67 RH indicator warning light68 Instrument pack69 Intake air temperature sensor70 Interior light71 Radio/cassette player72 RH speaker73 LH speaker74 Auxiliary cooling fan relay75 LH brake light76 RH brake light77 Dim-dip relay78 Instrument panel illumination79 Distributor80 RH rear direction indicator light81 LH rear direction indicator light82 Voltage stabiliser83 Engine management ECU84 Lambda sensor85 Reversing light switch86 Rear foglight87 Fuel injector88 Wiper column switch89 Starter90 Lambda sensor relay91 Reversing lights92 Direction indicator relay93 Fuse94 Line fuse95 Radio fuse

Cable colour code

When a cable has two colour code letters, the first denotes the main colour and the second denotes the tracer colour

BL BlueBK BlackBR BrownG GreenGR SlateLG Light green

O OrangeP PinkPU PurpleR RedW WhiteY Yellow

12•40W

iring diagram

s

Wiring diagram 19 - Dim-dip lighting and horn circuit (fuel-injected models)

A To power distribution circuitB To instrument circuit

C To foglight circuitD To instrument circuit

Wiring diagram 20 - Power distribution circuit (fuel-injected models)

E to Wiring diagram 22F to Wiring diagram 21G to Wiring diagram 21H To Wiring diagram 26J to Wiring diagrams 22, 24, 25, 31K to Wiring diagrams 19, 23, 32L to Wiring diagrams 21, 22

M to Wiring diagram 21N to Wiring diagrams 23, 28O to Wiring diagrams 19, 26P to Wiring diagram 27Q to Wiring diagram 27R to Wiring diagram 25A to Wiring diagram 19


12

Wiring diagram 21 - Engine management circuit (fuel-injected models)

F to Wiring diagram 20M to Wiring diagram 20

S to Wiring diagram 22T to Wiring diagram 22

12•42W

iring diagram

s

Wiring diagram 23 - Direction indicator and hazard warning light circuit(fuel-injected models)

U to Wiring diagram 22 V to Wiring diagram 22

Wiring diagram 22 - Instrument circuit (fuel-injected models)

E to Wiring diagram 20B to Wiring diagram 19D to Wiring diagram 19S to Wiring diagram 21

T to Wiring diagram 21U to Wiring diagram 23V to Wiring diagram 23

Wiring d

iagrams 12•43

12

Wiring diagram 24 - Wash/wipe circuit (fuel-injected models)

W to Wiring diagram 30

Wiring diagram 25 - Auxiliary cooling fan circuit (fuel-injected models)

Wiring diagram 26 - Radio/cassette player circuit(fuel-injected models)

12•44W

iring diagram

s

Wiring diagram 29 - Foglight circuit (fuel-injected models)

C to Wiring diagram 19

Wiring diagram 28 - Interior light circuit (fuel-injected models)

Wiring diagram 27 - Brake test circuit (fuel-injected models)

Wiring d

iagrams 12•45

12

Wiring diagram 31 - Automatic transmission selectorillumination circuit (fuel-injected models)

Wiring diagram 30 - Heater circuit (fuel-injected models)

W to Wiring diagram 24


Wiring diagram 32 - Reversing light, stop-light and heated rear window circuit (fuel-injected models)

REF

Dimensions and weightsNote: All figures are approximate, and may vary according to model. Refer to manufacturer’s data for exact figures.

DimensionsOverall length:

Saloon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3054 mmClubman Saloon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3165 mmCooper (1990-on) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3061 mmEstate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3403 mmVan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3298 mmPick-up . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3314 mm

Overall width:All models except Cooper (1990-on) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1410 mmCooper (1990-on) including mirrors . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1560 mm

Overall height:Saloon:

Pre-1985 models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1346 mm1985 models-on . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1353 mm

Cooper (1990-on) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1331 mmEstate, Van and Pick-up . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1359 mm

Wheelbase:Saloon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2036 mmEstate, Van and Pick-up . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2134 mm

WeightsKerb weight:

Saloon (rubber cone suspension):Manual transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 638 kgAutomatic transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 658 kg

Saloon (Hydrolastic suspension):Manual transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 679.5 kgAutomatic transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 699.3 kg

Estate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 686.7 kgVan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 621.5 kgPick-up . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 622.4 kg

Maximum towing weights:Saloon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 404 kgEstate, Van and Pick-up . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 303 kg

Maximum towing hitch load . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 kgMaximum roof rack load . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 kg

Dimensions and weights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .REF•1Conversion factors . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .REF•2Buying spare parts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .REF•3Vehicle identification . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .REF•3Jacking and vehicle support . . . . . . . . . . . . .REF•3Radio/cassette anti-theft system - precaution .REF•3

Tools and working facilities . . . . . . . . . . . . . .REF•4MOT test checks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .REF•6Fault finding . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .REF•10General repair procedures . . . . . . . . . . . . .REF•17Glossary of technical terms . . . . . . . . . . . .REF•18Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .REF•22

Reference REF•1

REF•2 Conversion factorsLength (distance)Inches (in) x 25.4 = Millimetres (mm) x 0.0394 = Inches (in)Feet (ft) x 0.305 = Metres (m) x 3.281 = Feet (ft)Miles x 1.609 = Kilometres (km) x 0.621 = Miles

Volume (capacity)Cubic inches (cu in; in3) x 16.387 = Cubic centimetres (cc; cm3) x 0.061 = Cubic inches (cu in; in3)Imperial pints (Imp pt) x 0.568 = Litres (l) x 1.76 = Imperial pints (Imp pt)Imperial quarts (Imp qt) x 1.137 = Litres (l) x 0.88 = Imperial quarts (Imp qt)Imperial quarts (Imp qt) x 1.201 = US quarts (US qt) x 0.833 = Imperial quarts (Imp qt)US quarts (US qt) x 0.946 = Litres (l) x 1.057 = US quarts (US qt)Imperial gallons (Imp gal) x 4.546 = Litres (l) x 0.22 = Imperial gallons (Imp gal)Imperial gallons (Imp gal) x 1.201 = US gallons (US gal) x 0.833 = Imperial gallons (Imp gal)US gallons (US gal) x 3.785 = Litres (l) x 0.264 = US gallons (US gal)

Mass (weight)Ounces (oz) x 28.35 = Grams (g) x 0.035 = Ounces (oz)Pounds (lb) x 0.454 = Kilograms (kg) x 2.205 = Pounds (lb)

ForceOunces-force (ozf; oz) x 0.278 = Newtons (N) x 3.6 = Ounces-force (ozf; oz)Pounds-force (lbf; lb) x 4.448 = Newtons (N) x 0.225 = Pounds-force (lbf; lb)Newtons (N) x 0.1 = Kilograms-force (kgf; kg) x 9.81 = Newtons (N)

PressurePounds-force per square inch x 0.070 = Kilograms-force per square x 14.223 = Pounds-force per square inch(psi; lbf/in2; lb/in2) centimetre (kgf/cm2; kg/cm2) (psi; lbf/in2; lb/in2)Pounds-force per square inch x 0.068 = Atmospheres (atm) x 14.696 = Pounds-force per square inch(psi; lbf/in2; lb/in2) (psi; lbf/in2; lb/in2)Pounds-force per square inch x 0.069 = Bars x 14.5 = Pounds-force per square inch(psi; lbf/in2; lb/in2) (psi; lbf/in2; lb/in2)Pounds-force per square inch x 6.895 = Kilopascals (kPa) x 0.145 = Pounds-force per square inch(psi; lbf/in2; lb/in2) (psi; lbf/in2; lb/in2)Kilopascals (kPa) x 0.01 = Kilograms-force per square x 98.1 = Kilopascals (kPa)

centimetre (kgf/cm2; kg/cm2)Millibar (mbar) x 100 = Pascals (Pa) x 0.01 = Millibar (mbar)Millibar (mbar) x 0.0145 = Pounds-force per square inch x 68.947 = Millibar (mbar)

(psi; lbf/in2; lb/in2)Millibar (mbar) x 0.75 = Millimetres of mercury (mmHg) x 1.333 = Millibar (mbar)Millibar (mbar) x 0.401 = Inches of water (inH2O) x 2.491 = Millibar (mbar)Millimetres of mercury (mmHg) x 0.535 = Inches of water (inH2O) x 1.868 = Millimetres of mercury (mmHg)Inches of water (inH2O) x 0.036 = Pounds-force per square inch x 27.68 = Inches of water (inH2O)

(psi; lbf/in2; lb/in2)

Torque (moment of force)Pounds-force inches x 1.152 = Kilograms-force centimetre x 0.868 = Pounds-force inches(lbf in; lb in) (kgf cm; kg cm) (lbf in; lb in)Pounds-force inches x 0.113 = Newton metres (Nm) x 8.85 = Pounds-force inches(lbf in; lb in) (lbf in; lb in)Pounds-force inches x 0.083 = Pounds-force feet (lbf ft; lb ft) x 12 = Pounds-force inches(lbf in; lb in) (lbf in; lb in)Pounds-force feet (lbf ft; lb ft) x 0.138 = Kilograms-force metres x 7.233 = Pounds-force feet (lbf ft; lb ft)

(kgf m; kg m)Pounds-force feet (lbf ft; lb ft) x 1.356 = Newton metres (Nm) x 0.738 = Pounds-force feet (lbf ft; lb ft)Newton metres (Nm) x 0.102 = Kilograms-force metres x 9.804 = Newton metres (Nm)

(kgf m; kg m)

PowerHorsepower (hp) x 745.7 = Watts (W) x 0.0013 = Horsepower (hp)

Velocity (speed)Miles per hour (miles/hr; mph) x 1.609 = Kilometres per hour (km/hr; kph) x 0.621 = Miles per hour (miles/hr; mph)

Fuel consumption*Miles per gallon (mpg) x 0.354 = Kilometres per litre (km/l) x 2.825 = Miles per gallon (mpg)

TemperatureDegrees Fahrenheit = (°C x 1.8) + 32 Degrees Celsius (Degrees Centigrade; °C) = (°F - 32) x 0.56

* It is common practice to convert from miles per gallon (mpg) to litres/100 kilometres (l/100km), where mpg x l/100 km = 282

Buying spare partsSpare parts are available from many

sources, including maker’s appointedgarages, accessory shops, and motor factors.To be sure of obtaining the correct parts, itwill sometimes be necessary to quote thevehicle identification number. If possible, itcan also be useful to take the old parts alongfor positive identification. Items such asstarter motors and alternators may beavailable under a service exchange scheme -any parts returned should always be clean.

Our advice regarding spare part sources isas follows.

Officially-appointed garagesThis is the best source of parts which are

peculiar to your car, and which are nototherwise generally available (eg badges,interior trim, certain body panels, etc). It isalso the only place at which you should buyparts if the vehicle is still under warranty.

Accessory shopsThese are very good places to buy

materials and components needed for themaintenance of your car (oil, air and fuel

filters, spark plugs, light bulbs, drivebelts, oilsand greases, brake pads, touch-up paint, etc).Components of this nature sold by areputable shop are of the same standard asthose used by the car manufacturer.

Besides components, these shops also selltools and general accessories, usually haveconvenient opening hours, charge lowerprices, and can often be found not far fromhome. Some accessory shops have partscounters where the components needed foralmost any repair job can be purchased orordered.

Motor factorsGood factors will stock all the more

important components which wear outcomparatively quickly, and can sometimessupply individual components needed for theoverhaul of a larger assembly (eg brake sealsand hydraulic parts, bearing shells, pistons,valves, alternator brushes). They may alsohandle work such as cylinder block reboring,crankshaft regrinding and balancing, etc.

Tyre and exhaust specialistsThese outlets may be independent, or

members of a local or national chain. Theyfrequently offer competitive prices whencompared with a main dealer or local garage,but it will pay to obtain several quotes beforemaking a decision. When researching prices,also ask what “extras” may be added - forinstance, fitting a new valve and balancing thewheel are both commonly charged on top ofthe price of a new tyre.

Other sourcesBeware of parts or materials obtained from

market stalls, car boot sales or similar outlets.Such items are not invariably sub-standard,but there is little chance of compensation ifthey do prove unsatisfactory. In the case ofsafety-critical components such as brakepads, there is the risk not only of financial lossbut also of an accident causing injury ordeath.

Second-hand components or assembliesobtained from a car breaker can be a goodbuy in some circumstances, but this sort ofpurchase is best made by the experiencedDIY mechanic.

When ordering spare parts it is essential toprovide the full details of your car. It will benecessary to quote the commission and carnumbers on early models, or the vehicleidentification (VIN) number on later models.When ordering parts for the engine,transmission unit or body it will also benecessary to supply these numbers.

The commission number (early models) isstamped on a plate fixed to the bonnetlocking platform.

The car number (early models) is located ona plate mounted adjacent to the commissionnumber.

The vehicle identification number (latermodels) is stamped on a plate attached to theright-hand inner wing valance.

The engine number is stamped on thecylinder block or on a metal plate fixed to theright-hand side of the cylinder block.

The transmission casing assembly numberis stamped on a facing provided on thecasting just below the starter motor.

The body number is stamped on a metalplate fixed to the bonnet locking platform.

The jack supplied with the vehicle tool kitshould only be used for changing theroadwheels - see “Wheel changing” at thefront of this manual. When carrying out anyother kind of work, raise the vehicle using ahydraulic (or “trolley”) jack, and alwayssupplement the jack with axle stands.

The reinforced side members of the front

and rear subframes should be used as jackingpoints for raising one side of the car at thefront or rear. A beam may be placedtransversely under the front and rearsubframes, with the jack head positionedcentrally under it, if it is wished to raise thecomplete front or rear of the car. Take carenot to damage the exhaust system or any

pipes or hoses if this method is being used.The side-members of the subframes shouldalso be used as axle stand support points.

Never work under, around, or near a raisedvehicle, unless it is adequately supported in atleast two places.

The radio/cassette unit fitted as standard oroptional equipment may be equipped with abuilt-in security code, to deter thieves. If thepower source to the unit is cut, the anti-theftsystem will activate. Even if the power sourceis immediately reconnected, the radio/cassetteunit will not function until the correct securitycode has been entered. Therefore, if you donot know the correct security code for theradio/cassette unit do not disconnect either of

the battery terminals, or remove theradio/cassette unit from the vehicle.

To enter the correct security code, followthe instructions provided with theradio/cassette player or vehicle handbook.

If an incorrect code is entered, the unit willbecome locked, and cannot be operated.

If this happens, or if the security code is lostor forgotten, seek the advice of your Roverdealer.

On later models equipped with a factoryfitted anti-theft alarm system, the radio signalcode is electronically changed each time thealarm handset is used. If the handset batteryis replaced or the car battery disconnected,the signal sequence will be lost. To restoresynchronisation, hold the handset close to thecar and press the handset LOCK button fourtimes in quick succession.

Buying spare parts REF•3

REF

Vehicle identification

Jacking and vehicle support

Radio/cassette unit anti-theft system - precaution

IntroductionA selection of good tools is a fundamental

requirement for anyone contemplating themaintenance and repair of a motor vehicle.For the owner who does not possess any,their purchase will prove a considerableexpense, offsetting some of the savings madeby doing-it-yourself. However, provided thatthe tools purchased meet the relevant nationalsafety standards and are of good quality, theywill last for many years and prove anextremely worthwhile investment.

To help the average owner to decide whichtools are needed to carry out the various tasksdetailed in this manual, we have compiledthree lists of tools under the followingheadings: Maintenance and minor repair,Repair and overhaul, and Special. Newcomersto practical mechanics should start off withthe Maintenance and minor repair tool kit, andconfine themselves to the simpler jobs aroundthe vehicle. Then, as confidence andexperience grow, more difficult tasks can beundertaken, with extra tools being purchasedas, and when, they are needed. In this way, aMaintenance and minor repair tool kit can bebuilt up into a Repair and overhaul tool kit overa considerable period of time, without anymajor cash outlays. The experienced do-it-yourselfer will have a tool kit good enough formost repair and overhaul procedures, and willadd tools from the Special category when it isfelt that the expense is justified by the amountof use to which these tools will be put.

Maintenance and minor repairtool kit

The tools given in this list should beconsidered as a minimum requirement ifroutine maintenance, servicing and minorrepair operations are to be undertaken. Werecommend the purchase of combinationspanners (ring one end, open-ended theother); although more expensive than open-ended ones, they do give the advantages ofboth types of spanner.mm Combination spanners:

Imperial - 5/16, 3/8, 7/16, 1/2, 9/16, 5/8,11/16, 3/4 inch AFMetric - 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 17 &19 mm

mm Adjustable spanner - 35 mm jaw (approx.)mm Spark plug spanner (with rubber insert)mm Spark plug gap adjustment toolmm Set of feeler gaugesmm Brake adjuster spannermm Brake bleed nipple spannermm Screwdrivers:

Flat blade - 100 mm long x 6 mm diaCross blade - 100 mm long x 6 mm dia

mm Combination pliersmm Hacksaw (junior)mm Tyre pumpmm Tyre pressure gaugemm Grease gunmm Oil canmm Oil filter removal toolmm Fine emery clothmm Wire brush (small)mm Funnel (medium size)

Repair and overhaul tool kitThese tools are virtually essential for anyone

undertaking any major repairs to a motorvehicle, and are additional to those given in theMaintenance and minor repair list. Included inthis list is a comprehensive set of sockets.Although these are expensive, they will befound invaluable as they are so versatile -particularly if various drives are included in theset. We recommend the half-inch square-drivetype, as this can be used with most proprietarytorque wrenches. If you cannot afford a socketset, even bought piecemeal, then inexpensivetubular box spanners are a useful alternative.

The tools in this list will occasionally need tobe supplemented by tools from the Special list:mm Sockets (or box spanners) to cover range

in previous list (including Torx sockets)mm Reversible ratchet drive (for use with

sockets)mm Extension piece, 250 mm (for use with

sockets)mm Universal joint (for use with sockets)mm Torque wrench (for use with sockets)mm Self-locking gripsmm Ball pein hammermm Soft-faced mallet (plastic/aluminium or

rubber)mm Screwdrivers:

Flat blade - long & sturdy, short (chubby),and narrow (electrician’s) typesCross blade - Long & sturdy, and short(chubby) types

mm Pliers:Long-nosedSide cutters (electrician’s)Circlip (internal and external)

mm Cold chisel - 25 mmmm Scribermm Scrapermm Centre-punchmm Pin punchmm Hacksawmm Brake hose clampmm Brake/clutch bleeding kitmm Selection of twist drillsmm Steel rule/straight-edgemm Allen keys (inc. splined/Torx type)mm Selection of filesmm Wire brushmm Axle standsmm Jack (strong trolley or hydraulic type)mm Light with extension lead

REF•4 Tools and working facilities

Vernier caliper Piston ring compressor

Sockets and reversible drive ratchet Valve spring compressor

Two/three legged puller

Special toolsThe tools in this list are those which are not

used regularly, are expensive to buy, or whichneed to be used in accordance with theirmanufacturers’ instructions. Unless relativelydifficult mechanical jobs are undertakenfrequently, it will not be economic to buymany of these tools. Where this is the case,you could consider clubbing together withfriends (or joining a motorists’ club) to make ajoint purchase, or borrowing the tools againsta deposit from a local garage or tool hirespecialist. It is worth noting that many of thelarger DIY superstores now carry a largerange of special tools for hire at modest rates.

The following list contains only those toolsand instruments freely available to the public,and not those special tools produced by thevehicle manufacturer specifically for its dealernetwork. You will find occasional referencesto these manufacturers’ special tools in thetext of this manual. Generally, an alternativemethod of doing the job without the vehiclemanufacturers’ special tool is given. However,sometimes there is no alternative to usingthem. Where this is the case and the relevanttool cannot be bought or borrowed, you willhave to entrust the work to a franchisedgarage.mm Valve spring compressormm Valve grinding toolmm Piston ring compressormm Piston ring removal/installation toolmm Balljoint separatormm Coil spring compressors (where

applicable)mm Two/three-legged hub and bearing pullermm Impact screwdrivermm Micrometer and/or vernier calipersmm Dial gaugemm Stroboscopic timing lightmm Dwell angle meter/tachometermm Universal electrical multi-metermm Cylinder compression gaugemm Hand-operated vacuum pump and gaugemm Bush and bearing removal/installation setmm Stud extractorsmm Tap and die setmm Lifting tacklemm Trolley jack

Buying toolsFor practically all tools, a tool factor is the

best source, since he will have a verycomprehensive range compared with theaverage garage or accessory shop. Havingsaid that, accessory shops often offerexcellent quality tools at discount prices, so itpays to shop around.

Remember, you don’t have to buy the mostexpensive items on the shelf, but it is alwaysadvisable to steer clear of the very cheaptools. There are plenty of good tools around atreasonable prices, but always aim topurchase items which meet the relevantnational safety standards. If in doubt, ask theproprietor or manager of the shop for advicebefore making a purchase.

Care and maintenance of toolsHaving purchased a reasonable tool kit, it is

necessary to keep the tools in a clean andserviceable condition. After use, always wipeoff any dirt, grease and metal particles using aclean, dry cloth, before putting the tools away.Never leave them lying around after they havebeen used. A simple tool rack on the garageor workshop wall for items such asscrewdrivers and pliers is a good idea. Storeall normal spanners and sockets in a metalbox. Any measuring instruments, gauges,meters, etc, must be carefully stored wherethey cannot be damaged or become rusty.

Take a little care when tools are used.Hammer heads inevitably become marked, andscrewdrivers lose the keen edge on their blades

from time to time. A little timely attention withemery cloth or a file will soon restore items likethis to a good serviceable finish.

Working facilitiesNot to be forgotten when discussing tools

is the workshop itself. If anything more thanroutine maintenance is to be carried out,some form of suitable working area becomesessential.

It is appreciated that many an owner-mechanic is forced by circumstances toremove an engine or similar item without thebenefit of a garage or workshop. Having donethis, any repairs should always be done underthe cover of a roof.

Wherever possible, any dismantling shouldbe done on a clean, flat workbench or table ata suitable working height.

Any workbench needs a vice; one with ajaw opening of 100 mm is suitable for mostjobs. As mentioned previously, some cleandry storage space is also required for tools, aswell as for any lubricants, cleaning fluids,touch-up paints and so on, which becomenecessary.

Another item which may be required, andwhich has a much more general usage, is anelectric drill with a chuck capacity of at least 8mm. This, together with a good range of twistdrills, is virtually essential for fitting accessories.

Last, but not least, always keep a supply ofold newspapers and clean, lint-free ragsavailable, and try to keep any working area asclean as possible.

Tools and working facilities REF•5

REFStroboscopic timing light Compression tester

Micrometer set Dial test indicator (“dial gauge”)

Stud extractor set

REF•6 MOT test checksThis is a guide to getting your vehicle through the MOT test.

Obviously it will not be possible to examine the vehicle to the samestandard as the professional MOT tester. However, working throughthe following checks will enable you to identify any problem areasbefore submitting the vehicle for the test.

Where a testable component is in borderline condition, the testerhas discretion in deciding whether to pass or fail it. The basis of suchdiscretion is whether the tester would be happy for a close relative orfriend to use the vehicle with the component in that condition. If thevehicle presented is clean and evidently well cared for, the tester maybe more inclined to pass a borderline component than if the vehicle isscruffy and apparently neglected.

It has only been possible to summarise the test requirements here,based on the regulations in force at the time of printing. Test standardsare becoming increasingly stringent, although there are someexemptions for older vehicles. For full details obtain a copy of the Haynespublication Pass the MOT! (available from stockists of Haynes manuals).

An assistant will be needed to help carry out some of these checks.

The checks have been sub-divided into four categories, as follows:

HandbrakeM Test the operation of the handbrake.Excessive travel (too many clicks) indicatesincorrect brake or cable adjustment.M Check that the handbrake cannot bereleased by tapping the lever sideways. Checkthe security of the lever mountings.

FootbrakeM Depress the brake pedal and check that itdoes not creep down to the floor, indicating amaster cylinder fault. Release the pedal, waita few seconds, then depress it again. If thepedal travels nearly to the floor before firmresistance is felt, brake adjustment or repair isnecessary. If the pedal feels spongy, there isair in the hydraulic system which must beremoved by bleeding.

M Check that the brake pedal is secure and ingood condition. Check also for signs of fluidleaks on the pedal, floor or carpets, whichwould indicate failed seals in the brake mastercylinder.M Check the servo unit (when applicable) byoperating the brake pedal several times, thenkeeping the pedal depressed and starting theengine. As the engine starts, the pedal willmove down slightly. If not, the vacuum hose orthe servo itself may be faulty.

Steering wheel and column M Examine the steering wheel for fractures orlooseness of the hub, spokes or rim. M Move the steering wheel from side to sideand then up and down. Check that the steering wheel is not loose on the column,indicating wear or a loose retaining nut.Continue moving the steering wheel as before,but also turn it slightly from left to right. M Check that the steering wheel is not looseon the column, and that there is no abnormal

movement of the steering wheel, indicatingwear in the column support bearings or couplings.

Windscreen and mirrors M The windscreen must be free of cracks orother significant damage within the driver’sfield of view. (Small stone chips areacceptable.) Rear view mirrors must besecure, intact, and capable of being adjusted.

1Checks carried outFROM THE DRIVER’S SEAT

1Checks carried outFROM THE DRIVER’SSEAT

2Checks carried outWITH THE VEHICLEON THE GROUND

3Checks carried outWITH THE VEHICLERAISED AND THEWHEELS FREE TOTURN

4Checks carried out onYOUR VEHICLE’SEXHAUST EMISSIONSYSTEM

MOT test checks REF•7

REF

Seat belts and seats Note: The following checks are applicable toall seat belts, front and rear.

M Examine the webbing of all the belts(including rear belts if fitted) for cuts, seriousfraying or deterioration. Fasten and unfasteneach belt to check the buckles. If applicable,check the retracting mechanism. Check thesecurity of all seat belt mountings accessiblefrom inside the vehicle.M The front seats themselves must besecurely attached and the backrests mustlock in the upright position.

Doors M Both front doors must be able to be openedand closed from outside and inside, and mustlatch securely when closed.

Vehicle identificationM Number plates must be in good condition,secure and legible, with letters and numberscorrectly spaced – spacing at (A) should betwice that at (B).

M The VIN plate and/or homologation platemust be legible.

Electrical equipmentM Switch on the ignition and check the operation of the horn.M Check the windscreen washers and wipers,examining the wiper blades; renew damagedor perished blades. Also check the operationof the stop-lights.

M Check the operation of the sidelights andnumber plate lights. The lenses and reflectorsmust be secure, clean and undamaged. M Check the operation and alignment of theheadlights. The headlight reflectors must notbe tarnished and the lenses must beundamaged.M Switch on the ignition and check the operation of the direction indicators (includingthe instrument panel tell-tale) and the hazardwarning lights. Operation of the sidelights andstop-lights must not affect the indicators - if itdoes, the cause is usually a bad earth at therear light cluster.M Check the operation of the rear foglight(s),including the warning light on the instrumentpanel or in the switch.

FootbrakeM Examine the master cylinder, brake pipesand servo unit for leaks, loose mountings, corrosion or other damage.

M The fluid reservoir must be secure and thefluid level must be between the upper (A) andlower (B) markings.

M Inspect both front brake flexible hoses forcracks or deterioration of the rubber. Turn thesteering from lock to lock, and ensure that thehoses do not contact the wheel, tyre, or anypart of the steering or suspension mechanism.With the brake pedal firmly depressed, checkthe hoses for bulges or leaks under pressure.

Steering and suspensionM Have your assistant turn the steering wheelfrom side to side slightly, up to the point wherethe steering gear just begins to transmit thismovement to the roadwheels. Check forexcessive free play between the steeringwheel and the steering gear, indicating wear orinsecurity of the steering column joints, thecolumn-to-steering gear coupling, or thesteering gear itself.M Have your assistant turn the steering wheelmore vigorously in each direction, so that theroadwheels just begin to turn. As this is done,examine all the steering joints, linkages,fittings and attachments. Renew anycomponent that shows signs of wear or damage. On vehicles with power steering,check the security and condition of the steering pump, drivebelt and hoses.M Check that the vehicle is standing level,and at approximately the correct ride height.

Shock absorbersM Depress each corner of the vehicle in turn,then release it. The vehicle should rise andthen settle in its normal position. If the vehiclecontinues to rise and fall, the shock absorberis defective. A shock absorber which hasseized will also cause the vehicle to fail.

2Checks carried outWITH THE VEHICLE ON THEGROUND

REF•8 MOT test checksExhaust systemM Start the engine. With your assistant holding a rag over the tailpipe, check theentire system for leaks. Repair or renewleaking sections.

Jack up the front and rear of the vehicle,and securely support it on axle stands.Position the stands clear of the suspensionassemblies. Ensure that the wheels areclear of the ground and that the steeringcan be turned from lock to lock.

Steering mechanism M Have your assistant turn the steering fromlock to lock. Check that the steering turnssmoothly, and that no part of the steeringmechanism, including a wheel or tyre, foulsany brake hose or pipe or any part of the bodystructure.M Examine the steering rack rubber gaitersfor damage or insecurity of the retaining clips.If power steering is fitted, check for signs ofdamage or leakage of the fluid hoses, pipes orconnections. Also check for excessivestiffness or binding of the steering, a missingsplit pin or locking device, or severe corrosionof the body structure within 30 cm of anysteering component attachment point.

Front and rear suspension andwheel bearings M Starting at the front right-hand side, graspthe roadwheel at the 3 o’clock and 9 o’clockpositions and shake it vigorously. Check forfree play or insecurity at the wheel bearings,suspension balljoints, or suspension mount-ings, pivots and attachments.M Now grasp the wheel at the 12 o’clock and6 o’clock positions and repeat the previousinspection. Spin the wheel, and check forroughness or tightness of the front wheelbearing.

M If excess free play is suspected at acomponent pivot point, this can be confirmedby using a large screwdriver or similar tool andlevering between the mounting and thecomponent attachment. This will confirmwhether the wear is in the pivot bush, itsretaining bolt, or in the mounting itself (the boltholes can often become elongated).

M Carry out all the above checks at the otherfront wheel, and then at both rear wheels.

Springs and shock absorbers M Examine the suspension struts (whenapplicable) for serious fluid leakage, corrosion,or damage to the casing. Also check thesecurity of the mounting points.M If coil springs are fitted, check that thespring ends locate in their seats, and that thespring is not corroded, cracked or broken.M If leaf springs are fitted, check that allleaves are intact, that the axle is securelyattached to each spring, and that there is nodeterioration of the spring eye mountings,bushes, and shackles.

M The same general checks apply to vehiclesfitted with other suspension types, such astorsion bars, hydraulic displacer units, etc.Ensure that all mountings and attachments aresecure, that there are no signs of excessivewear, corrosion or damage, and (on hydraulictypes) that there are no fluid leaks or damagedpipes.M Inspect the shock absorbers for signs ofserious fluid leakage. Check for wear of themounting bushes or attachments, or damageto the body of the unit.

Driveshafts(fwd vehicles only)M Rotate each front wheel in turn and inspectthe constant velocity joint gaiters for splits ordamage. Also check that each driveshaft isstraight and undamaged.

Braking system M If possible without dismantling, checkbrake pad wear and disc condition. Ensurethat the friction lining material has not wornexcessively, (A) and that the discs are notfractured, pitted, scored or badly worn (B).

M Examine all the rigid brake pipesunderneath the vehicle, and the flexiblehose(s) at the rear. Look for corrosion, chafingor insecurity of the pipes, and for signs ofbulging under pressure, chafing, splits ordeterioration of the flexible hoses.M Look for signs of fluid leaks at the brakecalipers or on the brake backplates. Repair orrenew leaking components.M Slowly spin each wheel, while yourassistant depresses and releases thefootbrake. Ensure that each brake is operatingand does not bind when the pedal is released.

3Checks carried outWITH THE VEHICLE RAISEDAND THE WHEELS FREE TOTURN

MOT test checks REF•9

REF

M Examine the handbrake mechanism,checking for frayed or broken cables,excessive corrosion, or wear or insecurity ofthe linkage. Check that the mechanism workson each relevant wheel, and releases fully,without binding.M It is not possible to test brake efficiencywithout special equipment, but a road test canbe carried out later to check that the vehiclepulls up in a straight line.

Fuel and exhaust systemsM Inspect the fuel tank (including the fillercap), fuel pipes, hoses and unions. Allcomponents must be secure and free fromleaks.M Examine the exhaust system over its entirelength, checking for any damaged, broken ormissing mountings, security of the retainingclamps and rust or corrosion.

Wheels and tyres M Examine the sidewalls and tread area ofeach tyre in turn. Check for cuts, tears, lumps,bulges, separation of the tread, and exposureof the ply or cord due to wear or damage.Check that the tyre bead is correctly seatedon the wheel rim, that the valve is sound and

properly seated, and that the wheel is notdistorted or damaged. M Check that the tyres are of the correct sizefor the vehicle, that they are of the same sizeand type on each axle, and that the pressuresare correct.M Check the tyre tread depth. The legalminimum at the time of writing is 1.6 mm overat least three-quarters of the tread width.Abnormal tread wear may indicate incorrectfront wheel alignment.

Body corrosionM Check the condition of the entire vehiclestructure for signs of corrosion in load-bearingareas. (These include chassis box sections,side sills, cross-members, pillars, and allsuspension, steering, braking system andseat belt mountings and anchorages.) Anycorrosion which has seriously reduced thethickness of a load-bearing area is likely tocause the vehicle to fail. In this caseprofessional repairs are likely to be needed.M Damage or corrosion which causes sharpor otherwise dangerous edges to be exposedwill also cause the vehicle to fail.

Petrol modelsM Have the engine at normal operatingtemperature, and make sure that it is in goodtune (ignition system in good order, air filterelement clean, etc).M Before any measurements are carried out,raise the engine speed to around 2500 rpm,and hold it at this speed for 20 seconds. Allow

the engine speed to return to idle, and watchfor smoke emissions from the exhausttailpipe. If the idle speed is obviously muchtoo high, or if dense blue or clearly-visibleblack smoke comes from the tailpipe for morethan 5 seconds, the vehicle will fail. As a ruleof thumb, blue smoke signifies oil being burnt(engine wear) while black smoke signifiesunburnt fuel (dirty air cleaner element, or othercarburettor or fuel system fault).M An exhaust gas analyser capable ofmeasuring carbon monoxide (CO) andhydrocarbons (HC) is now needed. If such aninstrument cannot be hired or borrowed, alocal garage may agree to perform the checkfor a small fee.

CO emissions (mixture)M At the time of writing, the maximum COlevel at idle is 3.5% for vehicles first used afterAugust 1986 and 4.5% for older vehicles.From January 1996 a much tighter limit(around 0.5%) applies to catalyst-equippedvehicles first used from August 1992. If theCO level cannot be reduced far enough topass the test (and the fuel and ignitionsystems are otherwise in good condition) thenthe carburettor is badly worn, or there is someproblem in the fuel injection system orcatalytic converter (as applicable).

HC emissionsM With the CO emissions within limits, HCemissions must be no more than 1200 ppm(parts per million). If the vehicle fails this testat idle, it can be re-tested at around 2000 rpm;if the HC level is then 1200 ppm or less, thiscounts as a pass.M Excessive HC emissions can be caused byoil being burnt, but they are more likely to bedue to unburnt fuel.

Diesel modelsM The only emission test applicable to Dieselengines is the measuring of exhaust smokedensity. The test involves accelerating theengine several times to its maximumunloaded speed.

Note: It is of the utmost importance that theengine timing belt is in good condition beforethe test is carried out.

M Excessive smoke can be caused by a dirtyair cleaner element. Otherwise, professionaladvice may be needed to find the cause.

4Checks carried out onYOUR VEHICLE’S EXHAUSTEMISSION SYSTEM

The vehicle owner who does his or her ownmaintenance according to the recommendedservice schedules should not have to use thissection of the manual very often. Moderncomponent reliability is such that, providedthose items subject to wear or deteriorationare inspected or renewed at the specifiedintervals, sudden failure is comparatively rare.Faults do not usually just happen as a result ofsudden failure, but develop over a period oftime. Major mechanical failures in particularare usually preceded by characteristicsymptoms over hundreds or even thousandsof miles. Those components which dooccasionally fail without warning are oftensmall and easily carried in the vehicle.

With any fault-finding, the first step is to

decide where to begin investigations.Sometimes this is obvious, but on otheroccasions, a little detective work will benecessary. The owner who makes half adozen haphazard adjustments orreplacements may be successful in curing afault (or its symptoms), but will be none thewiser if the fault recurs, and ultimately mayhave spent more time and money than wasnecessary. A calm and logical approach willbe found to be more satisfactory in the longrun. Always take into account any warningsigns or abnormalities that may have beennoticed in the period preceding the fault -power loss, high or low gauge readings,unusual smells, etc - and remember thatfailure of components such as fuses or spark

plugs may only be pointers to someunderlying fault.

The pages which follow provide an easy-reference guide to the more commonproblems which may occur during theoperation of the vehicle. These problems andtheir possible causes are grouped underheadings denoting various components orsystems, such as Engine, Cooling system,etc. The Chapter and/or Section which dealswith the problem is also shown in brackets.Whatever the fault, certain basic principlesapply. These are as follows:

Verify the fault. This is simply a matter ofbeing sure that you know what the symptomsare before starting work. This is particularlyimportant if you are investigating a fault for

REF•10 Fault finding

Engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1mm Engine fails to rotate when attempting to startmm Engine rotates, but will not startmm Engine difficult to start when coldmm Engine difficult to start when hotmm Starter motor noisy or excessively-rough in engagementmm Engine starts, but stops immediatelymm Engine idles erraticallymm Engine misfires at idle speedmm Engine misfires throughout the driving speed rangemm Engine hesitates on accelerationmm Engine stallsmm Engine lacks powermm Engine backfiresmm Oil pressure warning light illuminated with engine runningmm Engine runs-on after switching offmm Engine noises

Cooling system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2mm Overheatingmm Overcoolingmm External coolant leakagemm Internal coolant leakagemm Corrosion

Fuel and exhaust systems . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3mm Excessive fuel consumptionmm Fuel leakage and/or fuel odourmm Excessive noise or fumes from exhaust system

Clutch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4mm Pedal travels to floor (no pressure or very little resistance)mm Clutch fails to disengage (unable to select gears)mm Clutch slips (engine speed increases, with no increase in vehicle

speed)mm Judder as clutch is engagedmm Noise when depressing or releasing clutch pedal

Manual transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5mm Noisy in neutral with engine runningmm Noisy in one particular gearmm Difficulty engaging gearsmm Jumps out of gearmm Vibrationmm Lubricant leaks

Automatic transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6mm Fluid leakagemm General gear selection problemsmm Transmission will not downshift (kickdown) with accelerator fully

depressedmm Engine will not start in any gear, or starts in gears other than

Neutralmm Transmission slips, shifts roughly, is noisy, or has no drive in

forward or reverse gears

Driveshafts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7mm Clicking or knocking noise on turns (at slow speed on full-lock)mm Vibration when accelerating or decelerating

Braking system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8mm Vehicle pulls to one side under brakingmm Noise (grinding or high-pitched squeal) when brakes appliedmm Excessive brake pedal travelmm Brake pedal feels spongy when depressedmm Excessive brake pedal effort required to stop vehiclemm Judder felt through brake pedal or steering wheel when brakingmm Brakes bindingmm Rear wheels locking under normal braking

Suspension and steering systems . . . . . . . .9mm Vehicle pulls to one sidemm Wheel wobble and vibrationmm Excessive pitching and/or rolling around corners, or during

brakingmm Wandering or general instabilitymm Excessively-stiff steeringmm Excessive play in steeringmm Tyre wear excessive

Electrical system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10mm Battery will not hold a charge for more than a few daysmm Ignition/no-charge warning light remains illuminated with engine

runningmm Ignition/no-charge warning light fails to come onmm Lights inoperativemm Instrument readings inaccurate or erraticmm Horn inoperative, or unsatisfactory in operationmm Windscreen wipers inoperative, or unsatisfactory in operationmm Windscreen washers inoperative, or unsatisfactory in operation

Introduction

someone else, who may not have described itvery accurately.

Don’t overlook the obvious. For example, ifthe vehicle won’t start, is there petrol in thetank? (Don’t take anyone else’s word on thisparticular point, and don’t trust the fuel gaugeeither!) If an electrical fault is indicated, lookfor loose or broken wires before digging outthe test gear.

Cure the disease, not the symptom.

Substituting a flat battery with a fully-chargedone will get you off the hard shoulder, but ifthe underlying cause is not attended to, thenew battery will go the same way. Similarly,changing oil-fouled spark plugs (petrolmodels) for a new set will get you movingagain, but remember that the reason for thefouling (if it wasn’t simply an incorrect gradeof plug) will have to be established andcorrected.

Don’t take anything for granted. Particularly,don’t forget that a “new” component mayitself be defective (especially if it’s beenrattling around in the boot for months), anddon’t leave components out of a faultdiagnosis sequence just because they arenew or recently-fitted. When you do finallydiagnose a difficult fault, you’ll probablyrealise that all the evidence was there fromthe start.

Fault finding REF•11

REF

1 EngineEngine fails to rotate when attempting to startmm Battery terminal connections loose or corroded (“Weekly checks”).mm Battery discharged or faulty (Chapter 5A).mm Broken, loose or disconnected wiring in the starting circuit

(Chapter 5A).mm Defective starter solenoid or switch (Chapter 5A).mm Defective starter motor (Chapter 5A).mm Starter pinion or flywheel ring gear teeth loose or broken (Chapters

2A, 2B, 2C and 5A).mm Engine earth strap broken or disconnected (Chapter 5A).mm Automatic transmission selector not in N, or inhibitor switch faulty

(Chapter 7B).

Engine rotates, but will not startmm Fuel tank empty.mm Battery discharged (engine rotates slowly) (Chapter 5A).mm Battery terminal connections loose or corroded (“Weekly checks”).mm Ignition components damp or damaged (Chapters 1 and 5B).mm Worn or incorrectly adjusted contact breaker points (Chapter 5B).mm Broken, loose or disconnected wiring in the ignition circuit

(Chapters 1 and 5B).mm Worn, faulty or incorrectly-gapped spark plugs (Chapter 1).mm Choke mechanism incorrectly adjusted, worn or sticking -

carburettor models (Chapter 4A).mm Fuel injection system fault - fuel injected models (Chapter 4B or 4C).mm Major mechanical failure (eg camshaft drive) (Chapter 2A or 2B).

Engine difficult to start when coldmm Battery discharged (Chapter 5A).mm Battery terminal connections loose or corroded (Chapter 1).mm Worn, faulty or incorrectly-gapped spark plugs (Chapter 1).mm Worn or incorrectly adjusted contact breaker points (Chapter 5B).mm Choke mechanism incorrectly adjusted, worn or sticking -

carburettor models (Chapter 4A).mm Fuel injection system fault - fuel injected models (Chapter 4B or 4C).mm Other ignition system fault (Chapters 1 and 5B).mm Low cylinder compressions (Chapter 2A or 2B).

Engine difficult to start when hotmm Air filter element dirty or clogged (Chapter 1).mm Choke mechanism incorrectly adjusted, worn or sticking -

carburettor models (Chapter 4A).mm Fuel injection system fault - fuel injected models (Chapter 4B).mm Worn or incorrectly adjusted contact breaker points (Chapter 5B).mm Uneven or low cylinder compressions (Chapter 2A).

Starter motor noisy or excessively-rough inengagementmm Starter pinion or flywheel ring gear teeth loose or broken

(Chapters 2A, 2B and 5A).mm Starter motor mounting bolts loose or missing (Chapter 5A).mm Starter motor internal components worn or damaged (Chapter 5A).

Engine starts, but stops immediatelymm Loose or faulty electrical connections in the ignition circuit

(Chapters 1 and 5B).mm Vacuum leak at the carburettor/throttle body or inlet manifold

(Chapter 4A, 4B or 4C).mm Worn or incorrectly adjusted contact breaker points (Chapter 5B).mm Ballasted ignition system fault (Chapter 5B).mm Blocked injector/fuel injection system fault - fuel injected models

(Chapter 4B).

Engine idles erraticallymm Air filter element clogged (Chapter 1).mm Vacuum leak at the carburettor/throttle body, inlet manifold or

associated hoses (Chapter 4A, 4B or 4C).mm Worn, faulty or incorrectly-gapped spark plugs (Chapter 1).mm Worn or incorrectly adjusted contact breaker points (Chapter 5B).mm Uneven or low cylinder compressions (Chapter 2A).mm Camshaft lobes worn (Chapter 2B).mm Incorrect idle speed and mixture adjustment - carburettor models

(Chapter 4A).mm Blocked injector/fuel injection system fault - fuel injected models

(Chapter 4B).mm Incorrect valve clearances (Chapter 2A).mm Broken valve spring(s) (Chapter 2B).mm Burnt, sticking or leaking valves (Chapter 2B).mm Worn valve stems or guides (Chapter 2B).mm Worn or damaged pistons, piston rings and bores (Chapter 2B).

Engine misfires at idle speedmm Worn, faulty or incorrectly-gapped spark plugs (Chapter 1).mm Faulty spark plug HT leads (Chapter 1).mm Worn or incorrectly adjusted contact breaker points (Chapter 5B).mm Incorrect idle speed and mixture adjustment - carburettor models

(Chapter 4A).mm Vacuum leak at the carburettor/throttle body, inlet manifold or

associated hoses (Chapter 4A, 4B or 4C).mm Blocked injector/fuel injection system fault - fuel-injected models

(Chapter 4B).mm Distributor cap cracked or tracking internally (Chapter 1).mm Incorrect valve clearances (Chapter 2A).mm Uneven or low cylinder compressions (Chapter 2A).mm Disconnected, leaking, or perished crankcase ventilation hoses

(Chapter 4C).

Engine misfires throughout the driving speedrangemm Fuel filter choked - fuel injected models (Chapter 1).mm Incorrect idle speed and mixture adjustment - carburettor models

(Chapter 4A).mm Incorrect ignition timing (Chapter 5B).mm Choke mechanism incorrectly adjusted, worn or sticking -

carburettor models (Chapter 4A).


Engine (continued)mm Worn or incorrectly adjusted contact breaker points (Chapter 5B).mm Fuel pump faulty, or delivery pressure low (Chapter 4A or 4B).mm Fuel tank vent blocked, or fuel pipes restricted (Chapter 4A or 4B).mm Carburettor float chamber flooding (float height incorrect) -

carburettor models (Chapter 4A).mm Vacuum leak at the carburettor/throttle body, inlet manifold or

associated hoses (Chapter 4A, 4B or 4C).mm Worn, faulty or incorrectly-gapped spark plugs (Chapter 1).mm Faulty spark plug HT leads (Chapter 1).mm Distributor cap cracked or tracking internally (where applicable)

(Chapter 1).mm Faulty ignition coil or ignition module (Chapter 5B).mm Incorrect valve clearances (Chapter 2A).mm Uneven or low cylinder compressions (Chapter 2A).mm Blocked injector/fuel injection system fault - fuel injected models

(Chapter 4B).

Engine hesitates on accelerationmm Worn, faulty or incorrectly-gapped spark plugs (Chapter 1).mm Vacuum leak at the carburettor/throttle body, inlet manifold or

associated hoses (Chapter 4A, 4B or 4C).mm Incorrect idle speed and mixture adjustment - carburettor models

(Chapter 4A).mm Choke mechanism incorrectly adjusted, worn or sticking -

carburettor models (Chapter 4A).mm Worn or incorrectly adjusted contact breaker points (Chapter 5B).mm Blocked injector/fuel injection system fault - fuel injected models

(Chapter 4B).

Engine stallsmm Vacuum leak at the carburettor/throttle body, inlet manifold or

associated hoses (Chapter 4A, 4B or 4C).mm Incorrect idle speed and mixture adjustment - carburettor models

(Chapter 4A).mm Choke mechanism incorrectly adjusted, worn or sticking -

carburettor models (Chapter 4A).mm Carburettor float chamber flooding (float height incorrect) -

carburettor models (Chapter 4A).mm Fuel filter choked - fuel injected models (Chapter 1).mm Fuel pump faulty, or delivery pressure low (Chapter 4A or 4B).mm Fuel tank vent blocked, or fuel pipes restricted (Chapter 4A or 4B).mm Blocked injector/fuel injection system fault - fuel-injected models

(Chapter 4B).

Engine lacks powermm Timing chain incorrectly fitted (Chapter 2A).mm Incorrect idle speed and mixture adjustment - carburettor models

(Chapter 4A).mm Incorrect ignition timing (Chapter 5B).mm Fuel filter choked - fuel-injected models (Chapter 1).mm Fuel pump faulty, or delivery pressure low (Chapter 4A or 4B).mm Incorrect valve clearances (Chapter 2A).mm Uneven or low cylinder compressions (Chapter 2A).mm Worn, faulty or incorrectly-gapped spark plugs (Chapter 1).mm Vacuum leak at the carburettor/throttle body, inlet manifold or

associated hoses (Chapter 4A, 4B or 4C).mm Blocked injector/fuel injection system fault - fuel injected models

(Chapter 4B).mm Brakes binding (Chapters 1 and 9).mm Clutch slipping (Chapter 6).

Engine backfiresmm Timing chain incorrectly fitted (Chapter 2A or 2B).mm Vacuum leak at the carburettor/throttle body, inlet manifold or

associated hoses (Chapter 4A, 4B or 4C).mm Incorrect ignition timing (Chapter 5B).mm Blocked carburettor jet(s) or internal passages - carburettor

models (Chapter 4A).mm Blocked injector/fuel injection system fault - fuel injected models

(Chapter 4B).

Oil pressure warning light illuminated with enginerunningmm Low oil level, or incorrect oil grade (Chapter 1).mm Worn engine bearings and/or oil pump (Chapter 2B).mm High engine operating temperature (Chapter 3).mm Oil pressure relief valve defective (Chapter 2B).mm Oil pick-up strainer clogged (Chapter 2B).

Engine runs-on after switching offmm Excessive carbon build-up in engine (Chapter 2B).mm Incorrectly adjusted idle speed (Chapter 4A).mm Incorrect ignition timing (Chapter 5B).mm High engine operating temperature (Chapter 3).mm Fuel injection system fault - fuel injected models (Chapter 4B).

Engine noises

Pre-ignition (pinking) or knocking during acceleration orunder loadmm Ignition timing incorrect/ignition system fault (Chapters 1 and 5B).mm Incorrect grade of spark plug (Chapter 1).mm Incorrect grade of fuel (Chapter 1).mm Vacuum leak at the carburettor/throttle body, inlet manifold or

associated hoses (Chapter 4A, 4B or 4C).mm Excessive carbon build-up in engine (Chapter 2B).mm Blocked injector/fuel injection system fault - fuel injected models

(Chapter 4B).

Whistling or wheezing noisesmm Leaking inlet manifold or carburettor/throttle body gasket

(Chapter 4A or 4B).mm Leaking exhaust manifold gasket or pipe-to-manifold joint

(Chapter 4C).mm Leaking vacuum hose (Chapters 4A, 4B, 4C, 5B and 9).mm Blowing cylinder head gasket (Chapter 2A or 2B).

Tapping or rattling noisesmm Incorrect valve clearances (Chapter 2A).mm Worn timing chain tensioner, valve gear or camshaft (Chapter 2A

or 2B).mm Ancillary component fault (water pump, dynamo, alternator, etc)

(Chapters 3, 5A, etc).

Knocking or thumping noisesmm Worn big-end bearings (regular heavy knocking, perhaps less

under load) (Chapter 2B).mm Worn main bearings (rumbling and knocking, perhaps worsening

under load) (Chapter 2B).mm Piston slap (most noticeable when cold) (Chapter 2B).mm Ancillary component fault (water pump, dynamo, alternator, etc)

(Chapters 3, 5A, etc).


REF

4 ClutchPedal travels to floor (no pressure or very littleresistance)mm Air in clutch hydraulic system (Chapter 6).mm Faulty clutch master cylinder (Chapter 6).mm Faulty clutch slave cylinder (Chapter 6).mm Incorrect clutch return stop adjustment (Chapter 1).mm Incorrect clutch throw-out stop adjustment (Chapter 6).mm Broken clutch release bearing (Chapter 6).mm Broken diaphragm spring in clutch pressure plate (Chapter 6).

Clutch fails to disengage (unable to select gears)mm Incorrect clutch return stop adjustment (Chapter 1).mm Incorrect clutch throw-out stop adjustment (Chapter 6).mm Clutch disc sticking on primary gear splines (Chapter 6).mm Clutch disc sticking to flywheel or pressure plate (Chapter 6).mm Faulty pressure plate assembly (Chapter 6).mm Clutch release mechanism worn or incorrectly assembled

(Chapter 6).

Clutch slips (engine speed increases, with noincrease in vehicle speed)mm Incorrect clutch return stop adjustment (Chapter 1).mm Clutch disc linings excessively worn (Chapter 6).mm Clutch disc linings contaminated with oil or grease (Chapter 6).mm Faulty pressure plate or weak diaphragm spring (Chapter 6).

Judder as clutch is engagedmm Worn or loose engine or transmission mountings (Chapter 2A).mm Clutch disc linings contaminated with oil or grease (Chapter 6).mm Clutch disc linings excessively worn (Chapter 6).mm Faulty or distorted pressure plate or diaphragm spring (Chapter 6).mm Clutch disc hub or primary gear splines worn (Chapter 6).

Noise when depressing or releasing clutch pedalmm Worn clutch release bearing (Chapter 6).mm Worn or dry clutch pedal bushes (Chapter 6).mm Faulty pressure plate assembly (Chapter 6).mm Pressure plate diaphragm spring broken (Chapter 6).

3 Fuel and exhaust systemsExcessive fuel consumptionmm Air filter element dirty or clogged (Chapter 1).mm Incorrect idle speed and mixture adjustment - carburettor models

(Chapter 4A).mm Choke cable incorrectly adjusted, or choke sticking - carburettor

models (Chapter 4A).mm Fuel injection system fault - fuel injected models (Chapter 4B).mm Ignition timing incorrect/ignition system fault (Chapters 1 and 5B).mm Tyres under-inflated (“Weekly checks” ).

Fuel leakage and/or fuel odourmm Damaged or corroded fuel tank, pipes or connections

(Chapter 4A, 4B or 4C).mm Carburettor float chamber flooding (float height incorrect) -

carburettor models (Chapter 4A).

Excessive noise or fumes from exhaust systemmm Leaking exhaust system or manifold joints (Chapters 1 and 4C).mm Leaking, corroded or damaged silencers or pipe (Chapters 1

and 4C).mm Broken mountings causing body or suspension contact

(Chapter 4C).

2 Cooling systemOverheatingmm Insufficient coolant in system (“Weekly checks” ).mm Thermostat faulty (Chapter 3).mm Radiator core blocked, or grille restricted (Chapter 3).mm Electric cooling fan or thermoswitch faulty - later models

(Chapter 3).mm Pressure cap faulty (Chapter 3).mm Blown cylinder head gasket (Chapter 2A or 2B).mm Ignition timing incorrect/ignition system fault (Chapters 1 and 5B).mm Inaccurate temperature gauge sender unit (Chapter 3).mm Airlock in cooling system (Chapter 1).

Overcoolingmm Thermostat faulty (Chapter 3).mm Inaccurate temperature gauge sender unit (Chapter 3).

External coolant leakagemm Deteriorated or damaged hoses or hose clips (Chapter 1).mm Radiator core or heater matrix leaking (Chapter 3).mm Pressure cap faulty (Chapter 3).mm Water pump seal leaking (Chapter 3).mm Boiling due to overheating (Chapter 3).mm Core plug leaking (Chapter 2B).

Internal coolant leakagemm Leaking cylinder head gasket (Chapter 2A or 2B).mm Cracked cylinder head or cylinder bore (Chapter 2A or 2B).

Corrosionmm Infrequent draining and flushing (Chapter 1).mm Incorrect coolant mixture or inappropriate coolant type (Chapter 1).


7 DriveshaftsClicking or knocking noise on turns (at slow speedon full-lock)mm Lack of constant velocity joint lubricant, possibly due to damaged

gaiters (Chapter 8).mm Worn outer constant velocity joint (Chapter 8).

Vibration when accelerating or deceleratingmm Worn inner constant velocity joint (Chapter 8).mm Bent or distorted driveshaft (Chapter 8).

6 Automatic transmissionNote: Due to the complexity of the automatic transmission, it is difficultfor the home mechanic to properly diagnose and service this unit. Forproblems other than the following, the vehicle should be taken to adealer service department or automatic transmission specialist. Do notbe too hasty in removing the transmission if a fault is suspected, asmost of the testing is carried out with the unit still fitted.

Fluid leakagemm To determine the source of a leak, first remove all built-up dirt and

grime from the transmission housing and surrounding areas usinga degreasing agent, or by steam-cleaning. Drive the vehicle at lowspeed, so airflow will not blow the leak far from its source. Raiseand support the vehicle, and determine where the leak is comingfrom. The following are common areas of leakage:

a) Leaking differential output (driveshaft) oil seal (Chapter 7B).b) Leaking housing joint (Chapter 2B or 7B).c) Leaking selector transverse rod oil seal (Chapter 7B).

General gear selection problemsmm Chapter 7B deals with checking and adjusting the selector cable

on automatic transmissions. The following are common problemswhich may be caused by a poorly-adjusted cable:

a) Engine starting in gears other than Neutral.b) Indicator panel indicating a gear other than the one actually being

used.c) Vehicle moves when in Park or Neutral.d) Poor gear shift quality or erratic gear changes.

Transmission will not downshift (kickdown) withaccelerator pedal fully depressedmm Low engine/transmission oil level (Chapter 1).mm Incorrect selector cable adjustment (Chapter 7B).

Engine will not start in any gear, or starts in gearsother than Neutralmm Incorrect starter/inhibitor switch adjustment (Chapter 7B).mm Incorrect selector cable adjustment (Chapter 7B).

Transmission slips, shifts roughly, is noisy, or hasno drive in forward or reverse gearsmm There are many probable causes for the above problems, which

can really only be accurately diagnosed using pressure gauges inconjunction with a step-by step diagnostic procedure. Problemsof this nature must, therefore, be referred to a dealer or automatictransmission specialist.

5 Manual transmissionNoisy in neutral with engine runningmm Transfer gear bearings worn (noise apparent with clutch pedal

released, but not when depressed) (Chapter 7A).*mm Clutch release bearing worn (noise apparent with clutch pedal

depressed, possibly less when released) (Chapter 6).

Noisy in one particular gearmm Worn, damaged or chipped gear teeth (Chapter 7A).*

Difficulty engaging gearsmm Clutch fault (Chapter 6).mm Worn or damaged gear linkage (Chapter 7A).mm Worn synchroniser units (Chapter 7A).*

Jumps out of gearmm Worn or damaged gear linkage (Chapter 7A).mm Incorrectly-adjusted gear linkage (Chapter 7A).mm Worn synchroniser units (Chapter 7A).*mm Worn selector forks (Chapter 7A).*

Vibrationmm Lack of oil (Chapter 1).mm Worn bearings (Chapter 7A).*

Lubricant leaksmm Leaking differential output (driveshaft) oil seal (Chapter 7A).mm Leaking housing joint (Chapter 2B or 7A).**Although the corrective action necessary to remedy the symptomsdescribed is beyond the scope of the home mechanic, the aboveinformation should be helpful in isolating the cause of the condition, sothat the owner can communicate clearly with a professional mechanic.


REF

9 Suspension and steering systemsNote: Before diagnosing suspension or steering faults, be sure that thetrouble is not due to incorrect tyre pressures, mixtures of tyre types, orbinding brakes.

Vehicle pulls to one sidemm Defective tyre (“Weekly checks”).mm Excessive wear in suspension or steering components (Chapters 1

and 10).mm Incorrect front wheel alignment (Chapter 10).mm Worn or broken subframe mountings (Chapter 10).mm Accident damage to steering or suspension components (Chapter 1).

Wheel wobble and vibrationmm Front roadwheels out of balance (vibration felt mainly through the

steering wheel) (Chapters 1 and 10).mm Rear roadwheels out of balance (vibration felt throughout the

vehicle) (Chapters 1 and 10).mm Roadwheels damaged or distorted (Chapters 1 and 10).mm Defective tyre (“Weekly checks” ).mm Worn steering or suspension joints, bushes or components

(Chapters 1 and 10).mm Wheel nuts loose (Chapters 1 and 10).

Excessive pitching and/or rolling around corners,or during brakingmm Defective shock absorbers - rubber cone suspension models

(Chapter 10).mm Incorrect vehicle ride height - Hydrolastic suspension models

(Chapter 10).mm Worn or damaged suspension component or mounting (Chapter 10).

Wandering or general instabilitymm Incorrect front wheel alignment (Chapter 10).mm Worn steering or suspension joints, bushes or components

(Chapters 1 and 10).mm Roadwheels out of balance (Chapters 1 and 10).mm Defective tyre (“Weekly checks”).mm Wheel nuts loose (Chapters 1 and 10).mm Defective shock absorbers - rubber cone suspension models

(Chapter 10).mm Incorrect vehicle ride height - Hydrolastic suspension models

(Chapter 10).

Excessively-stiff steeringmm Lack of steering gear lubricant (Chapter 10).mm Seized tie-rod or suspension balljoint (Chapters 1 and 10).mm Incorrect front wheel alignment (Chapter 10).mm Steering rack or column bent or damaged (Chapter 10).

Excessive play in steeringmm Worn steering tie-rod balljoints (Chapters 1 and 10).mm Loose steering column clamp bolt (Chapter 10).mm Worn rack-and-pinion steering gear (Chapter 10).mm Worn steering or suspension joints, bushes or components

(Chapters 1 and 10).

Tyre wear excessive

Tyres worn on inside or outside edgesmm Tyres under-inflated (wear on both edges) (“Weekly checks”).mm Incorrect camber or castor angles (wear on one edge only)

(Chapter 10).

8 Braking systemNote: Before assuming that a brake problem exists, make sure that thetyres are in good condition and correctly inflated, that the front wheelalignment is correct, and that the vehicle is not loaded with weight in anunequal manner.

Vehicle pulls to one side under brakingmm Worn, defective, damaged or contaminated brake shoes/pads on

one side (Chapters 1 and 9).mm Seized or partially-seized front wheel cylinder piston or brake

caliper piston (Chapters 1 and 9).mm A mixture of brake shoe/ pad lining materials fitted between sides

(Chapters 1 and 9).mm Brake backplate or caliper mounting bolts loose (Chapter 9).mm Worn or damaged steering or suspension components


Noise (grinding or high-pitched squeal) whenbrakes appliedmm Brake shoe or pad friction lining material worn down to metal

backing (Chapters 1 and 9).mm Excessive corrosion of brake drum or disc. (May be apparent after

the vehicle has been standing for some time (Chapters 1 and 9).

Excessive brake pedal travelmm Incorrect drum brake adjustment (Chapter 1).mm Faulty master cylinder (Chapter 9).mm Air in hydraulic system (Chapter 9).mm Faulty vacuum servo unit - where fitted (Chapter 9).

Brake pedal feels spongy when depressedmm Air in hydraulic system (Chapter 9).mm Deteriorated flexible rubber brake hoses (Chapters 1 and 9).

mm Master cylinder mounting nuts loose (Chapter 9).mm Faulty master cylinder (Chapter 9).

Excessive brake pedal effort required to stopvehiclemm Faulty vacuum servo unit - where fitted (Chapter 9).mm Disconnected, damaged or insecure brake servo vacuum hose

(Chapter 9).mm Primary or secondary hydraulic circuit failure (Chapter 9).mm Seized wheel cylinder or brake caliper piston(s) (Chapter 9).mm Brake shoes or pads incorrectly fitted (Chapters 1 and 9).mm Incorrect grade of brake shoes or pads fitted (Chapters 1 and 9).mm Brake shoe linings or pads contaminated (Chapters 1 and 9).

Judder felt through brake pedal or steering wheelwhen brakingmm Excessive run-out or distortion of drums/discs (Chapters 1 and 9).mm Brake shoe or pad linings worn (Chapters 1 and 9).mm Brake backplate or caliper mounting bolts loose (Chapter 9).mm Wear in suspension or steering components or mountings


Brakes bindingmm Incorrect drum brake adjustment (Chapter 1).mm Seized wheel cylinder or brake caliper piston(s) (Chapter 9).mm Incorrectly-adjusted handbrake mechanism (Chapter 9).mm Seized handbrake cable moving sectors (Chapter 9).mm Faulty master cylinder (Chapter 9).

Rear wheels locking under normal brakingmm Rear brake shoe linings contaminated (Chapters 1 and 9).mm Faulty brake pressure regulating valve or reducing valve (Chapter 9).


10 Electrical systemNote: For problems associated with the starting system, refer to thefaults listed under “Engine” earlier in this Section.

Battery will not hold a charge for more than a fewdaysmm Battery defective internally (Chapter 5A).mm Battery terminal connections loose or corroded (“Weekly checks”).mm Fan belt worn or incorrectly adjusted (Chapter 1).mm Dynamo/alternator not charging at correct output (Chapter 5A).mm Alternator or voltage regulator faulty (Chapter 5A).mm Short-circuit causing continual battery drain (Chapters 5A and 12).

Ignition/no-charge warning light remainsilluminated with engine runningmm Fan belt worn, incorrectly adjusted or broken (Chapter 1).mm Dynamo/alternator brushes worn, sticking, or dirty (Chapter 5A).mm Dynamo/alternator brush springs weak or broken (Chapter 5A).mm Internal fault in alternator or voltage regulator (Chapter 5A).mm Broken, disconnected, or loose wiring in charging circuit (Chapter 5A).

Ignition/no-charge warning light fails to come onmm Warning light bulb blown (Chapter 12).mm Broken, disconnected, or loose wiring in warning light circuit

(Chapter 12).mm Alternator faulty (Chapter 5A).

Lights inoperativemm Bulb blown (Chapter 12).mm Corrosion of bulb or bulbholder contacts (Chapter 12).mm Blown fuse (Chapter 12).mm Faulty relay (Chapter 12).mm Broken, loose, or disconnected wiring (Chapter 12).mm Faulty switch (Chapter 12).

Instrument readings inaccurate or erratic

Instrument readings increase with engine speedmm Faulty voltage stabiliser (Chapter 12).

Fuel or temperature gauges give no readingmm Faulty gauge sender unit (Chapters 3, 4A or 4B).mm Wiring open-circuit (Chapter 12).mm Faulty gauge (Chapter 12).

Fuel or temperature gauges give continuous maximumreadingmm Faulty gauge sender unit (Chapters 3, 4A or 4B).mm Wiring short-circuit (Chapter 12).mm Faulty gauge (Chapter 12).

Horn inoperative, or unsatisfactory in operation

Horn operates all the timemm Horn push either earthed or stuck down (Chapter 12).

mm Horn cable-to-horn push earthed (Chapter 12).

Horn fails to operatemm Blown fuse (Chapter 12).mm Cable or cable connections loose, broken or disconnected

(Chapter 12).mm Faulty horn (Chapter 12).

Horn emits intermittent or unsatisfactory soundmm Cable connections loose (Chapter 12).mm Horn mountings loose (Chapter 12).mm Faulty horn (Chapter 12).

Windscreen wipers inoperative, or unsatisfactoryin operation

Wipers fail to operate, or operate very slowlymm Wiper blades stuck to screen, or linkage seized or binding

(“Weekly checks” and Chapter 12).mm Blown fuse (Chapter 12).mm Cable or cable connections loose, broken or disconnected

(Chapter 12).mm Faulty relay (Chapter 12).mm Faulty wiper motor (Chapter 12).

Wiper blades sweep over too large or too small an area ofthe glassmm Wiper arms incorrectly positioned on spindles (Chapter 12).mm Excessive wear of wiper linkage (Chapter 12).mm Wiper motor or linkage mountings loose or insecure (Chapter 12).

Wiper blades fail to clean the glass effectivelymm Wiper blade rubbers worn or perished (“Weekly checks”).mm Wiper arm tension springs broken, or arm pivots seized (Chapter 12).mm Insufficient windscreen washer additive to adequately remove

road film (“Weekly checks” ).

Windscreen washers inoperative, orunsatisfactory in operation

One or more washer jets inoperativemm Blocked washer jet (Chapter 1).mm Disconnected, kinked or restricted fluid hose (Chapter 12).mm Insufficient fluid in washer reservoir (Chapter 1).

Washer pump fails to operatemm Broken or disconnected wiring or connections (Chapter 12).mm Blown fuse (Chapter 12).mm Faulty washer switch (Chapter 12).mm Faulty washer pump (Chapter 12).

Washer pump runs for some time before fluid is emittedfrom jetsmm Faulty one-way valve in fluid supply hose (Chapter 12).

9 Suspension and steering systems (continued)mm Worn steering or suspension joints, bushes or components

(Chapters 1 and 10).mm Worn or broken subframe mountings (Chapter 10).mm Incorrect vehicle ride height - Hydrolastic suspension models

(Chapter 10).mm Excessively-hard cornering.mm Accident damage.

Tyre treads exhibit feathered edgesmm Incorrect toe setting (Chapter 10).

Tyres worn in centre of treadmm Tyres over-inflated (“Weekly checks” ).

Tyres worn on inside and outside edgesmm Tyres under-inflated (“Weekly checks” ).

Tyres worn unevenlymm Tyres/wheels out of balance (Chapter 1).mm Excessive wheel or tyre run-out (Chapter 1).mm Defective tyre (“Weekly checks” ).mm Defective shock absorbers - rubber cone suspension models

(Chapter 10).

General repair procedures REF•17

REF

Whenever servicing, repair or overhaul workis carried out on the car or its components,observe the following procedures andinstructions. This will assist in carrying out theoperation efficiently and to a professionalstandard of workmanship.

Joint mating faces and gasketsWhen separating components at their

mating faces, never insert screwdrivers orsimilar implements into the joint between thefaces in order to prise them apart. This cancause severe damage which results in oilleaks, coolant leaks, etc upon reassembly.Separation is usually achieved by tappingalong the joint with a soft-faced hammer inorder to break the seal. However, note thatthis method may not be suitable wheredowels are used for component location.

Where a gasket is used between the matingfaces of two components, a new one must befitted on reassembly; fit it dry unless otherwisestated in the repair procedure. Make sure thatthe mating faces are clean and dry, with alltraces of old gasket removed. When cleaning ajoint face, use a tool which is unlikely to scoreor damage the face, and remove any burrs ornicks with an oilstone or fine file.

Make sure that tapped holes are cleanedwith a pipe cleaner, and keep them free ofjointing compound, if this is being used,unless specifically instructed otherwise.

Ensure that all orifices, channels or pipesare clear, and blow through them, preferablyusing compressed air.

Oil sealsOil seals can be removed by levering them

out with a wide flat-bladed screwdriver orsimilar implement. Alternatively, a number ofself-tapping screws may be screwed into theseal, and these used as a purchase for pliers orsome similar device in order to pull the seal free.

Whenever an oil seal is removed from itsworking location, either individually or as partof an assembly, it should be renewed.

The very fine sealing lip of the seal is easilydamaged, and will not seal if the surface itcontacts is not completely clean and free fromscratches, nicks or grooves. If the originalsealing surface of the component cannot berestored, and the manufacturer has not madeprovision for slight relocation of the sealrelative to the sealing surface, the componentshould be renewed.

Protect the lips of the seal from any surfacewhich may damage them in the course offitting. Use tape or a conical sleeve wherepossible. Lubricate the seal lips with oil beforefitting and, on dual-lipped seals, fill the spacebetween the lips with grease.

Unless otherwise stated, oil seals must befitted with their sealing lips toward thelubricant to be sealed.

Use a tubular drift or block of wood of theappropriate size to install the seal and, if theseal housing is shouldered, drive the sealdown to the shoulder. If the seal housing is

unshouldered, the seal should be fitted withits face flush with the housing top face (unlessotherwise instructed).

Screw threads and fasteningsSeized nuts, bolts and screws are quite a

common occurrence where corrosion has setin, and the use of penetrating oil or releasingfluid will often overcome this problem if theoffending item is soaked for a while beforeattempting to release it. The use of an impactdriver may also provide a means of releasingsuch stubborn fastening devices, when usedin conjunction with the appropriatescrewdriver bit or socket. If none of thesemethods works, it may be necessary to resortto the careful application of heat, or the use ofa hacksaw or nut splitter device.

Studs are usually removed by locking twonuts together on the threaded part, and thenusing a spanner on the lower nut to unscrewthe stud. Studs or bolts which have broken offbelow the surface of the component in whichthey are mounted can sometimes be removedusing a stud extractor. Always ensure that ablind tapped hole is completely free from oil,grease, water or other fluid before installingthe bolt or stud. Failure to do this could causethe housing to crack due to the hydraulicaction of the bolt or stud as it is screwed in.

When tightening a castellated nut to accepta split pin, tighten the nut to the specifiedtorque, where applicable, and then tightenfurther to the next split pin hole. Never slackenthe nut to align the split pin hole, unless statedin the repair procedure.

When checking or retightening a nut or boltto a specified torque setting, slacken the nutor bolt by a quarter of a turn, and thenretighten to the specified setting. However,this should not be attempted where angulartightening has been used.

For some screw fastenings, notablycylinder head bolts or nuts, torque wrenchsettings are no longer specified for the latterstages of tightening, “angle-tightening” beingcalled up instead. Typically, a fairly low torquewrench setting will be applied to thebolts/nuts in the correct sequence, followedby one or more stages of tightening throughspecified angles.

Locknuts, locktabs and washersAny fastening which will rotate against a

component or housing during tighteningshould always have a washer between it andthe relevant component or housing.

Spring or split washers should always berenewed when they are used to lock a criticalcomponent such as a big-end bearingretaining bolt or nut. Locktabs which arefolded over to retain a nut or bolt shouldalways be renewed.

Self-locking nuts can be re-used in non-critical areas, providing resistance can be feltwhen the locking portion passes over the boltor stud thread. However, it should be notedthat self-locking stiffnuts tend to lose their

effectiveness after long periods of use, andshould then be renewed as a matter of course.

Split pins must always be replaced withnew ones of the correct size for the hole.

When thread-locking compound is foundon the threads of a fastener which is to be re-used, it should be cleaned off with a wirebrush and solvent, and fresh compoundapplied on reassembly.

Special toolsSome repair procedures in this manual

entail the use of special tools such as a press,two or three-legged pullers, spring com-pressors, etc. Wherever possible, suitablereadily-available alternatives to the manu-facturer’s special tools are described, and areshown in use. In some instances, where noalternative is possible, it has been necessaryto resort to the use of a manufacturer’s tool,and this has been done for reasons of safetyas well as the efficient completion of the repairoperation. Unless you are highly-skilled andhave a thorough understanding of theprocedures described, never attempt tobypass the use of any special tool when theprocedure described specifies its use. Notonly is there a very great risk of personalinjury, but expensive damage could becaused to the components involved.

Environmental considerationsWhen disposing of used engine oil, brake

fluid, antifreeze, etc, give due consideration toany detrimental environmental effects. Do not,for instance, pour any of the above liquidsdown drains into the general sewage system,or onto the ground to soak away. Many localcouncil refuse tips provide a facility for wasteoil disposal, as do some garages. If none ofthese facilities are available, consult your localEnvironmental Health Department, or theNational Rivers Authority, for further advice.

With the universal tightening-up of legis-lation regarding the emission of environmen-tally-harmful substances from motor vehicles,most vehicles have tamperproof devices fittedto the main adjustment points of the fuelsystem. These devices are primarily designedto prevent unqualified persons from adjustingthe fuel/air mixture, with the chance of aconsequent increase in toxic emissions. Ifsuch devices are found during servicing oroverhaul, they should, wherever possible, berenewed or refitted in accordance with themanufacturer’s requirements or currentlegislation.

Note: It isantisocial andillegal to dumpoil down thedrain. To findthe location ofyour local oilrecyclingbank, call thisnumber free.

REF•18 Glossary of technical terms

AABS (Anti-lock brake system) A system,usually electronically controlled, that sensesincipient wheel lockup during braking andrelieves hydraulic pressure at wheels that areabout to skid.Air bag An inflatable bag hidden in thesteering wheel (driver’s side) or the dash orglovebox (passenger side). In a head-oncollision, the bags inflate, preventing thedriver and front passenger from being thrownforward into the steering wheel or windscreen.Air cleaner A metal or plastic housing,containing a filter element, which removesdust and dirt from the air being drawn into theengine.Air filter element The actual filter in an aircleaner system, usually manufactured frompleated paper and requiring renewal at regularintervals.

Allen key A hexagonal wrench which fits intoa recessed hexagonal hole.Alligator clip A long-nosed spring-loadedmetal clip with meshing teeth. Used to maketemporary electrical connections.Alternator A component in the electricalsystem which converts mechanical energyfrom a drivebelt into electrical energy tocharge the battery and to operate the startingsystem, ignition system and electricalaccessories. Ampere (amp) A unit of measurement for theflow of electric current. One amp is theamount of current produced by one voltacting through a resistance of one ohm.Anaerobic sealer A substance used toprevent bolts and screws from loosening.Anaerobic means that it does not requireoxygen for activation. The Loctite brand iswidely used.Antifreeze A substance (usually ethyleneglycol) mixed with water, and added to avehicle’s cooling system, to prevent freezingof the coolant in winter. Antifreeze alsocontains chemicals to inhibit corrosion andthe formation of rust and other deposits thatwould tend to clog the radiator and coolantpassages and reduce cooling efficiency.Anti-seize compound A coating thatreduces the risk of seizing on fasteners thatare subjected to high temperatures, such asexhaust manifold bolts and nuts.Asbestos A natural fibrous mineral with greatheat resistance, commonly used in thecomposition of brake friction materials.

Asbestos is a health hazard and the dustcreated by brake systems should never beinhaled or ingested.Axle A shaft on which a wheel revolves, orwhich revolves with a wheel. Also, a solidbeam that connects the two wheels at oneend of the vehicle. An axle which alsotransmits power to the wheels is known as alive axle.Axleshaft A single rotating shaft, on eitherside of the differential, which delivers powerfrom the final drive assembly to the drivewheels. Also called a driveshaft or a halfshaft.

BBall bearing An anti-friction bearingconsisting of a hardened inner and outer racewith hardened steel balls between two races.Bearing The curved surface on a shaft or in abore, or the part assembled into either, thatpermits relative motion between them withminimum wear and friction.

Big-end bearing The bearing in the end ofthe connecting rod that’s attached to thecrankshaft.Bleed nipple A valve on a brake wheelcylinder, caliper or other hydraulic componentthat is opened to purge the hydraulic systemof air. Also called a bleed screw.Brake bleeding Procedure for removing airfrom lines of a hydraulic brake system.

Brake disc The component of a disc brakethat rotates with the wheels.

Brake drum The component of a drum brakethat rotates with the wheels.Brake linings The friction material whichcontacts the brake disc or drum to retard thevehicle’s speed. The linings are bonded orriveted to the brake pads or shoes.Brake pads The replaceable friction padsthat pinch the brake disc when the brakes areapplied. Brake pads consist of a frictionmaterial bonded or riveted to a rigid backingplate.Brake shoe The crescent-shaped carrier towhich the brake linings are mounted andwhich forces the lining against the rotatingdrum during braking.Braking systems For more information onbraking systems, consult the HaynesAutomotive Brake Manual.Breaker bar A long socket wrench handleproviding greater leverage.Bulkhead The insulated partition betweenthe engine and the passenger compartment.

CCaliper The non-rotating part of a disc-brakeassembly that straddles the disc and carriesthe brake pads. The caliper also contains thehydraulic components that cause the pads topinch the disc when the brakes are applied. Acaliper is also a measuring tool that can be setto measure inside or outside dimensions of anobject.Camshaft A rotating shaft on which a seriesof cam lobes operate the valve mechanisms.The camshaft may be driven by gears, bysprockets and chain or by sprockets and abelt.Canister A container in an evaporativeemission control system; contains activatedcharcoal granules to trap vapours from thefuel system.

Carburettor A device which mixes fuel withair in the proper proportions to provide adesired power output from a spark ignitioninternal combustion engine.Castellated Resembling the parapets alongthe top of a castle wall. For example, acastellated balljoint stud nut.Castor In wheel alignment, the backward orforward tilt of the steering axis. Castor ispositive when the steering axis is inclinedrearward at the top.

Canister

Brake bleeding

Bearing

Air filter

Glossary of technical terms REF•19

REF

Catalytic converter A silencer-like device inthe exhaust system which converts certainpollutants in the exhaust gases into lessharmful substances.

Circlip A ring-shaped clip used to preventendwise movement of cylindrical parts andshafts. An internal circlip is installed in agroove in a housing; an external circlip fits intoa groove on the outside of a cylindrical piecesuch as a shaft.Clearance The amount of space betweentwo parts. For example, between a piston anda cylinder, between a bearing and a journal,etc.Coil spring A spiral of elastic steel found invarious sizes throughout a vehicle, forexample as a springing medium in thesuspension and in the valve train.Compression Reduction in volume, andincrease in pressure and temperature, of agas, caused by squeezing it into a smallerspace.Compression ratio The relationship betweencylinder volume when the piston is at topdead centre and cylinder volume when thepiston is at bottom dead centre.Constant velocity (CV) joint A type ofuniversal joint that cancels out vibrationscaused by driving power being transmittedthrough an angle.Core plug A disc or cup-shaped metal deviceinserted in a hole in a casting through whichcore was removed when the casting wasformed. Also known as a freeze plug orexpansion plug. Crankcase The lower part of the engineblock in which the crankshaft rotates.Crankshaft The main rotating member, orshaft, running the length of the crankcase,with offset “throws” to which the connectingrods are attached.

Crocodile clip See Alligator clip

DDiagnostic code Code numbers obtained byaccessing the diagnostic mode of an enginemanagement computer. This code can beused to determine the area in the systemwhere a malfunction may be located.Disc brake A brake design incorporating arotating disc onto which brake pads aresqueezed. The resulting friction converts theenergy of a moving vehicle into heat.Double-overhead cam (DOHC) An enginethat uses two overhead camshafts, usuallyone for the intake valves and one for theexhaust valves.Drivebelt(s) The belt(s) used to driveaccessories such as the alternator, waterpump, power steering pump, air conditioningcompressor, etc. off the crankshaft pulley.

Driveshaft Any shaft used to transmitmotion. Commonly used when referring to theaxleshafts on a front wheel drive vehicle.Drum brake A type of brake using a drum-shaped metal cylinder attached to the innersurface of the wheel. When the brake pedal ispressed, curved brake shoes with frictionlinings press against the inside of the drum toslow or stop the vehicle.

EEGR valve A valve used to introduce exhaustgases into the intake air stream.Electronic control unit (ECU) A computerwhich controls (for instance) ignition and fuelinjection systems, or an anti-lock brakingsystem. For more information refer to theHaynes Automotive Electrical and ElectronicSystems Manual.Electronic Fuel Injection (EFI) A computercontrolled fuel system that distributes fuelthrough an injector located in each intake portof the engine.Emergency brake A braking system,independent of the main hydraulic system,that can be used to slow or stop the vehicle ifthe primary brakes fail, or to hold the vehiclestationary even though the brake pedal isn’tdepressed. It usually consists of a hand leverthat actuates either front or rear brakesmechanically through a series of cables andlinkages. Also known as a handbrake orparking brake.

Endfloat The amount of lengthwisemovement between two parts. As applied to acrankshaft, the distance that the crankshaftcan move forward and back in the cylinderblock.

Engine management system (EMS) Acomputer controlled system which managesthe fuel injection and the ignition systems inan integrated fashion.

Exhaust manifold A part with severalpassages through which exhaust gases leavethe engine combustion chambers and enterthe exhaust pipe.

FFan clutch A viscous (fluid) drive couplingdevice which permits variable engine fanspeeds in relation to engine speeds.

Feeler blade A thin strip or blade of hardenedsteel, ground to an exact thickness, used tocheck or measure clearances between parts.

Firing order The order in which the enginecylinders fire, or deliver their power strokes,beginning with the number one cylinder.

Flywheel A heavy spinning wheel in whichenergy is absorbed and stored by means ofmomentum. On cars, the flywheel is attachedto the crankshaft to smooth out firingimpulses.

Free play The amount of travel before anyaction takes place. The “looseness” in alinkage, or an assembly of parts, between theinitial application of force and actualmovement. For example, the distance thebrake pedal moves before the pistons in themaster cylinder are actuated.

Fuse An electrical device which protects acircuit against accidental overload. The typicalfuse contains a soft piece of metal which iscalibrated to melt at a predetermined currentflow (expressed as amps) and break thecircuit.

Fusible link A circuit protection deviceconsisting of a conductor surrounded byheat-resistant insulation. The conductor issmaller than the wire it protects, so it acts asthe weakest link in the circuit. Unlike a blownfuse, a failed fusible link must frequently becut from the wire for replacement.

Catalytic converter

Crankshaft assembly

Accessory drivebelts

Feeler blade

REF•20 Glossary of technical terms

GGap The distance the spark must travel injumping from the centre electrode to the sideelectrode in a spark plug. Also refers to thespacing between the points in a contactbreaker assembly in a conventional points-type ignition, or to the distance between thereluctor or rotor and the pickup coil in anelectronic ignition.

Gasket Any thin, soft material - usually cork,cardboard, asbestos or soft metal - installedbetween two metal surfaces to ensure a goodseal. For instance, the cylinder head gasketseals the joint between the block and thecylinder head.

Gauge An instrument panel display used tomonitor engine conditions. A gauge with amovable pointer on a dial or a fixed scale is ananalogue gauge. A gauge with a numericalreadout is called a digital gauge.

HHalfshaft A rotating shaft that transmitspower from the final drive unit to a drivewheel, usually when referring to a live rearaxle.Harmonic balancer A device designed toreduce torsion or twisting vibration in thecrankshaft. May be incorporated in thecrankshaft pulley. Also known as a vibrationdamper.Hone An abrasive tool for correcting smallirregularities or differences in diameter in anengine cylinder, brake cylinder, etc.Hydraulic tappet A tappet that utiliseshydraulic pressure from the engine’slubrication system to maintain zero clearance(constant contact with both camshaft andvalve stem). Automatically adjusts to variationin valve stem length. Hydraulic tappets alsoreduce valve noise.

IIgnition timing The moment at which thespark plug fires, usually expressed in thenumber of crankshaft degrees before thepiston reaches the top of its stroke.Inlet manifold A tube or housing withpassages through which flows the air-fuelmixture (carburettor vehicles and vehicles withthrottle body injection) or air only (port fuel-injected vehicles) to the port openings in thecylinder head.

JJump start Starting the engine of a vehiclewith a discharged or weak battery byattaching jump leads from the weak battery toa charged or helper battery.

LLoad Sensing Proportioning Valve (LSPV) Abrake hydraulic system control valve thatworks like a proportioning valve, but alsotakes into consideration the amount of weightcarried by the rear axle.Locknut A nut used to lock an adjustmentnut, or other threaded component, in place.For example, a locknut is employed to keepthe adjusting nut on the rocker arm inposition.Lockwasher A form of washer designed toprevent an attaching nut from working loose.

MMacPherson strut A type of frontsuspension system devised by EarleMacPherson at Ford of England. In its originalform, a simple lateral link with the anti-roll barcreates the lower control arm. A long strut - anintegral coil spring and shock absorber - ismounted between the body and the steeringknuckle. Many modern so-called MacPhersonstrut systems use a conventional lower A-armand don’t rely on the anti-roll bar for location.Multimeter An electrical test instrument withthe capability to measure voltage, current andresistance.

NNOx Oxides of Nitrogen. A common toxicpollutant emitted by petrol and diesel enginesat higher temperatures.

OOhm The unit of electrical resistance. Onevolt applied to a resistance of one ohm willproduce a current of one amp.Ohmmeter An instrument for measuringelectrical resistance.O-ring A type of sealing ring made of aspecial rubber-like material; in use, the O-ringis compressed into a groove to provide thesealing action.Overhead cam (ohc) engine An engine withthe camshaft(s) located on top of the cylinderhead(s).

Overhead valve (ohv) engine An engine withthe valves located in the cylinder head, butwith the camshaft located in the engine block.Oxygen sensor A device installed in theengine exhaust manifold, which senses theoxygen content in the exhaust and convertsthis information into an electric current. Alsocalled a Lambda sensor.

PPhillips screw A type of screw head having across instead of a slot for a correspondingtype of screwdriver.Plastigage A thin strip of plastic thread,available in different sizes, used for measuringclearances. For example, a strip of Plastigageis laid across a bearing journal. The parts areassembled and dismantled; the width of thecrushed strip indicates the clearance betweenjournal and bearing.

Propeller shaft The long hollow tube withuniversal joints at both ends that carriespower from the transmission to the differentialon front-engined rear wheel drive vehicles.Proportioning valve A hydraulic controlvalve which limits the amount of pressure tothe rear brakes during panic stops to preventwheel lock-up.

RRack-and-pinion steering A steering systemwith a pinion gear on the end of the steeringshaft that mates with a rack (think of a gearedwheel opened up and laid flat). When thesteering wheel is turned, the pinion turns,moving the rack to the left or right. Thismovement is transmitted through the trackrods to the steering arms at the wheels.Radiator A liquid-to-air heat transfer devicedesigned to reduce the temperature of thecoolant in an internal combustion enginecooling system. Refrigerant Any substance used as a heattransfer agent in an air-conditioning system.R-12 has been the principle refrigerant formany years; recently, however, manufacturershave begun using R-134a, a non-CFCsubstance that is considered less harmful tothe ozone in the upper atmosphere.Rocker arm A lever arm that rocks on a shaftor pivots on a stud. In an overhead valveengine, the rocker arm converts the upwardmovement of the pushrod into a downwardmovement to open a valve.

Adjusting spark plug gap

Plastigage

Gasket

Glossary of technical terms REF•21

REF

Rotor In a distributor, the rotating deviceinside the cap that connects the centreelectrode and the outer terminals as it turns,distributing the high voltage from the coilsecondary winding to the proper spark plug.Also, that part of an alternator which rotatesinside the stator. Also, the rotating assemblyof a turbocharger, including the compressorwheel, shaft and turbine wheel.Runout The amount of wobble (in-and-outmovement) of a gear or wheel as it’s rotated.The amount a shaft rotates “out-of-true.” Theout-of-round condition of a rotating part.

SSealant A liquid or paste used to preventleakage at a joint. Sometimes used inconjunction with a gasket.Sealed beam lamp An older headlight designwhich integrates the reflector, lens andfilaments into a hermetically-sealed one-pieceunit. When a filament burns out or the lenscracks, the entire unit is simply replaced.Serpentine drivebelt A single, long, wideaccessory drivebelt that’s used on somenewer vehicles to drive all the accessories,instead of a series of smaller, shorter belts.Serpentine drivebelts are usually tensioned byan automatic tensioner.

Shim Thin spacer, commonly used to adjustthe clearance or relative positions betweentwo parts. For example, shims inserted into orunder bucket tappets control valveclearances. Clearance is adjusted bychanging the thickness of the shim.Slide hammer A special puller that screwsinto or hooks onto a component such as ashaft or bearing; a heavy sliding handle on theshaft bottoms against the end of the shaft toknock the component free.

Sprocket A tooth or projection on theperiphery of a wheel, shaped to engage with achain or drivebelt. Commonly used to refer tothe sprocket wheel itself.Starter inhibitor switch On vehicles with anautomatic transmission, a switch thatprevents starting if the vehicle is not in Neutralor Park.Strut See MacPherson strut.

TTappet A cylindrical component whichtransmits motion from the cam to the valvestem, either directly or via a pushrod androcker arm. Also called a cam follower.Thermostat A heat-controlled valve thatregulates the flow of coolant between thecylinder block and the radiator, so maintainingoptimum engine operating temperature. Athermostat is also used in some air cleaners inwhich the temperature is regulated.Thrust bearing The bearing in the clutchassembly that is moved in to the releaselevers by clutch pedal action to disengage theclutch. Also referred to as a release bearing.Timing belt A toothed belt which drives thecamshaft. Serious engine damage may resultif it breaks in service.Timing chain A chain which drives thecamshaft.Toe-in The amount the front wheels arecloser together at the front than at the rear. Onrear wheel drive vehicles, a slight amount oftoe-in is usually specified to keep the frontwheels running parallel on the road byoffsetting other forces that tend to spread thewheels apart.Toe-out The amount the front wheels arecloser together at the rear than at the front. Onfront wheel drive vehicles, a slight amount oftoe-out is usually specified.Tools For full information on choosing andusing tools, refer to the Haynes AutomotiveTools Manual.Tracer A stripe of a second colour applied toa wire insulator to distinguish that wire fromanother one with the same colour insulator.Tune-up A process of accurate and carefuladjustments and parts replacement to obtainthe best possible engine performance.

Turbocharger A centrifugal device, driven byexhaust gases, that pressurises the intake air.Normally used to increase the power outputfrom a given engine displacement, but canalso be used primarily to reduce exhaustemissions (as on VW’s “Umwelt” Dieselengine).

UUniversal joint or U-joint A double-pivotedconnection for transmitting power from adriving to a driven shaft through an angle. AU-joint consists of two Y-shaped yokes and across-shaped member called the spider.

VValve A device through which the flow ofliquid, gas, vacuum, or loose material in bulkmay be started, stopped, or regulated by amovable part that opens, shuts, or partiallyobstructs one or more ports or passageways.A valve is also the movable part of such adevice.Valve clearance The clearance between thevalve tip (the end of the valve stem) and therocker arm or tappet. The valve clearance ismeasured when the valve is closed.Vernier caliper A precision measuringinstrument that measures inside and outsidedimensions. Not quite as accurate as amicrometer, but more convenient.Viscosity The thickness of a liquid or itsresistance to flow.Volt A unit for expressing electrical“pressure” in a circuit. One volt that willproduce a current of one ampere through aresistance of one ohm.

WWelding Various processes used to join metalitems by heating the areas to be joined to amolten state and fusing them together. Formore information refer to the HaynesAutomotive Welding Manual.Wiring diagram A drawing portraying thecomponents and wires in a vehicle’s electricalsystem, using standardised symbols. Formore information refer to the HaynesAutomotive Electrical and Electronic SystemsManual.

Serpentine drivebelt

AAccelerator cable - 4A•5, 4B•3Accelerator pedal - 4A•5, 4B•4, 4B•8Air cleaner - 1•18, 4A•3, 4B•2, 4B•3Air pump - 1•12, 4C•6Air temperature control system - 4B•3, 4B•7Air vents - 3•9Alternator - 5A•6Anti-run-on valve - 4A•20Anti-theft alarm system - 12•17Antifreeze - 0•11, 0•16, 1•2, 1•20, 3•2Asbestos - 0•5Automatic transmission - 7B•1 et seqAutomatic transmission - Also seeTransmission

BBattery - 0•5, 0•13, 5A•3Big-end bearings - 2B•18, 2B•21Bleeding - 6•2, 9•2Body electrical system - 1•17, 12•1 et seq,

REF•7Bodywork and fittings - 1•17, 11•1 et seq,

REF•9Bonnet - 1•17, 11•8, 12•17Boot - 1•17, 11•9, 12•17Brake fluid - 0•12, 0•16, 1•21Braking system - 1•8, 1•10, 1•14, 1•15,

1•17, 9•1 et seq, REF•6, REF•7, REF•8Bulbs - 0•15, 12•7, 12•9Bumpers - 11•12Burning - 0•5

CCables - 3•6, 4A•5, 4B•3, 7B•2, 7B•4, 7B•5,

9•9, 11•8, 12•16Calipers - 9•8Camshaft - 2B•13Capacities - 1•2Carburettor - 1•17, 4A•9, 4A•10, 4A•14,

4A•16, 4A•19Carpets - 11•2Cassette player - REF•3Catalytic converter - 4C•4, 4C•7Centre console - 11•11Charcoal canister - 4C•5Choke - 4A•5Clutch - 1•12, 1•16, 1•17, 6•1 et seqClutch fluid - 0•12, 0•16Coil - 5B•15Compression test - 2A•3Condenser - 5B•9Connecting rods - 2B•15, 2B•21, 2B•22Console - 11•11Constant velocity joint - 8•5Contact breaker points - 1•16, 5B•7, 5B•8

Control box - 1•17, 5A•4Conversion factors - REF•2Coolant - 0•11, 0•16, 1•2, 1•20, 3•2Coolant temperature sensor - 4B•8Cooling, heating and ventilation systems -

3•1 et seqCourtesy light - 12•9Crankcase - 2B•17Crankshaft - 2A•9, 2B•16, 2B•20, 5B•15Crushing - 0•5Cylinder block - 2B•17Cylinder head - 2A•7, 2A•9, 2B•11, 2B•12

DDents in bodywork - 11•2Depressurisation (fuel system) - 4B•4Dim-dip lighting - 12•11Dimensions - REF•1Discs - 9•8Distributor - 1•16, 1•18, 2A•12, 5B•10,5B•11Doors - 1•17, 11•4, 11•5, 11•6, 11•7, 11•8,

11•9, 12•6, REF•7Driveshafts - 1•14, 7A•5, 7B•5, 8•1 et seq,

REF•8Driving light - 12•8Drums - 9•4Dynamo - 1•17, 5A•4

EEarth fault - 12•4Electric shock - 0•5Electronic control unit (ECU) - 4B•7, 12•17Engine in-car repair procedures - 2A•1 et seqEngine oil - 0•11, 0•16, 1•2, 1•13Engine removal and overhaul procedures -

2B•1 et seqEnvironmental considerations - REF•17Exhaust and emission control systems -

1•20, 4C•1 et seq, REF•9Exhaust system - 1•10, 4C•1, 4C•3, 4C•4,

REF•8

FFacia - 11•10, 11•11, 12•5Fan - 3•5Fan belt - 1•11, 1•12Fault finding - 4A•10, 4A•14, 5A•3, 12•3,

REF•10 et seqFilling - 11•2Filter, fuel - 1•21Filter, oil - 1•13, 2A•13Fire - 0•5Fluids - 0•16Flywheel - 2A•10, 6•4Foglight - 12•9Footwell light - 12•9

Fuel filter - 1•21Fuel gauge - 4A•7, 4B•5, 12•15Fuel hoses - 1•16Fuel line - 1•10Fuel system - carburettor engines - 1•16,

4A•1 et seq, REF•9Fuel system - fuel injection engines - 1•16,

4B•1 et seq, REF•9Fuel tank - 4A•7, 4B•5, 4C•6Fume or gas intoxication - 0•5Fuses - 0•15, 12•4

GGaiters - 1•14, 8•5, 10•17Gashes in bodywork - 11•2Gaskets - REF•17Gear lever - 7A•2, 7A•3, 7B•2, 7B•4, 7B•5Glass - 11•5, 11•10Glossary of technical terms - REF•18 et seqGlovebox - 12•9Grille - 11•12

HHandbrake - 1•9, 9•9, 9•10, REF•6Handles - 11•7HC emissions - REF•9Headlight - 1•12, 12•7, 12•10Heater - 3•6, 3•7Hinges - 11•5Horn - 12•11HT lead - 1•18Hub bearings - 1•9, 1•10, 10•4, 10•10,

REF•8Hydrofluoric acid - 0•5Hydrolastic suspension system - 10•3,

10•9, 10•11

IIdle speed adjustment - 1•17, 4A•16, 4A•19Ignition system - 1•17, 5B•1 et seq, 12•6Indicators - 12•9Inhibitor switch - 5B•17, 7B•2, 12•7Injectors - 4B•6Instruments - 1•17, 12•9, 12•14, 12•15Interior light - 12•9

JJacking - REF•3Joint mating faces - REF•17Jump starting - 0•7

LLambda sensor - 4C•7Leaks - 0•9, 1•15Locknuts, locktabs and washers - REF•17Locks - 11•6, 11•8, 11•9Lubricants - 0•16

REF•22 Index

Note: References throughout this index are in the form ”Chapter number”•”page number”

MMain bearings - 2B•18Manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor -

4B•7Manifolds - 4B•9, 4A•20, 4C•4Manual transmission - 7A•1 et seqManual transmission - Also seeTransmissionMaster cylinder - 6•3, 9•10, 9•11, 9•13,

9•14, 9•15Mirrors - REF•6Misfire - 5B•6Mixture adjustment - 1•17, 4A•16, 4A•19,

REF•9MOT test checks - REF•6 et seqMountings - 2A•11, 10•9, 10•13

NNumber plate light - 12•9

OOil cooler - 2A•14Oil filter - 1•13, 2A•13Oil pressure relief valve - 2A•13Oil pump - 2B•14Oil seals - 2A•9, 7A•5, REF•17Oil, engine - 0•11, 0•16, 1•2, 1•13Oil, transmission - 0•11, 0•16, 1•2, 1•13Open-circuit - 12•3

PPads - 9•7Paint - 1•17Pedals - 4A•5, 4B•4, 4B•8, 6•4, 9•18Pistons and rings - 2B•15, 2B•19, 2B•21,

2B•22Plastic components - 11•3Points - 1•16, 5B•7, 5B•8Poisonous or irritant substances - 0•5Printed circuit - 12•16PTC heater - 4B•9Purge control valve - 4C•6

QQuarterlight glass - 11•10

RRadiator - 3•3Radio - 12•16, REF•3Radius arm - 1•10, 10•12

Re-spraying - 11•2Relays - 4C•7, 4B•8, 4B•9, 12•4, 12•5Release bearing - 6•8Repair procedures - REF•17Reversing light - 7B•2, 12•7, 12•9Rocker shaft - 2A•6Rotor arm - 1•18Routine maintenance and servicing - 1•1

et seq, 11•1, 11•2Rust holes in bodywork - 11•2

SSafety first - 0•5Scratches in bodywork - 11•2Screen wash fluid - 0•13Screw threads and fastenings - REF•17Seat belts - 1•12, REF•7Seats - 1•12, REF•7Selector - 7B•2, 7B•4, 7B•5, 7A•6Servo unit - 9•17, 9•18Shock absorbers - 10•9, 10•12, REF•7,

REF•8Shoes - 9•5Short-circuit - 12•4Side screen window - 11•10Sidelight - 12•9Silencer - 4C•3Slave cylinder - 6•2, 6•3Solenoid valve - 5B•17Spare parts - REF•3Spark plug - 1•19Speedometer - 12•16Springs - 10•9, 10•11, 10•12, REF•8Starter inhibitor - 5B•17, 7B•2, 12•7Starter motor - 5A•7, 5A•8Starting and charging systems - 5A•1 et seqSteering - See Suspension and steeringStepper motor - 4B•7Stop light - 12•6, 12•9Subframe - 10•9, 10•10, 10•13Sunroof - 11•12Suspension and steering - 1•9, 1•10, 1•15,

1•17, 10•1 et seq, 12•5, REF•6, REF•7, REF•8Switches - 3•5, 4B•8, 5B•17, 7B•2, 12•5,

12•9, 12•17Swivel hub - 1•10, 10•3, 10•6

TTachometer - 12•16Tail light - 12•9Tailgate - 11•9

Tappets - 2B•13, 2B•14Temperature gauge - 12•15Thermostat - 3•4Throttle body - 4B•5Tie-bar - 10•8Tie-rod - 10•16Timing - 1•17, 5B•16Timing chain - 2A•4Tools - REF•4, REF•5, REF•17Torque converter - 2A•10Towing - 0•9Transfer gears - 7A•4, 7A•5, 7B•5Transmission - 2A•11, 2B•4, 2B•5, 2B•6,

2B•7, 2B•9Transmission - Also see Manualtransmission and Automatic transmissionTransmission oil - 0•11, 0•16, 1•2, 1•13Trim - 1•17, 11•4, 11•12Tyres - 0•14, 0•16, REF•9

UUnderframe - 11•1Unleaded petrol - 4A•8, 4B•5Upholstery - 11•2

VVacuum servo unit - 9•17, 9•18Valve clearances - 1•18, 2A•4Valves - 2B•12Vehicle identification - REF•3, REF•7Voltage regulator - 5A•5Voltage stabiliser - 12•16

WWarning lights - 12•9Washers - 0•13, 12•13Water pump - 3•4Weekly checks - 0•10 et seqWeights - REF•1Wheel alignment - 10•19Wheel bearings - 1•9, 1•10, 10•4, 10•10,REF•8Wheel changing - 0•8Wheel cylinder - 9•6Wheels - REF•9Windows - 11•5, 11•10Windscreen - 11•9, REF•6Wipers - 0•15, 12•12, 12•13Wiring diagrams - 12•7 et seqWorking facilities - REF•5

Index REF•23

REF

Almost every car you’ve ever loved, loathed or desired is gathered under one roof at the Haynes MotorMuseum. Over 300 immaculately presented cars and motorbikes represent every aspect of our motoring

heritage, from elegant reminders of bygone days, such as the superb Model J Duesenberg to curiosities likethe bug-eyed BMW Isetta. There are also many old friends and flames. Perhaps you remember the 1959 Ford

Popular that you did your courting in? The magnificent ‘Red Collection’ is a spectacle of classic sports carsincluding AC, Alfa Romeo, Austin Healey, Ferrari, Lamborghini, Maserati, MG, Riley, Porsche and Triumph.

A Perfect Day OutEach and every vehicle at the Haynes Motor Museum has played its part in the history and culture of

Motoring. Today, they make a wonderful spectacle and a great day out for all the family. Bring the kids, bringMum and Dad, but above all bring your camera to capture those golden memories for ever. You will also find

an impressive array of motoring memorabilia, a comfortable 70 seat video cinema and one of the mostextensive transport book shops in Britain. The Pit Stop Cafe serves everything from a cup of tea to

wholesome, home-made meals or, if you prefer, you can enjoy the large picnic area nestled in the beautifulrural surroundings of Somerset.

The Museum is situated on the A359 Yeovil to Frome road at Sparkford, just off the A303 in Somerset. It is about 40 miles south of Bristol, and 25 minutes drive from the M5 intersection at Taunton.

Open 9.30am - 5.30pm (10.00am - 4.00pm Winter) 7 days a week, except Christmas Day, Boxing Day and New Years DaySpecial rates available for schools, coach parties and outings Charitable Trust No. 292048

>John Haynes O.B.E.,

Founder andChairman of the

museum at the wheelof a Haynes Light 12.

<Graham Hill’s LolaCosworth Formula 1car next to a 1934Riley Sports.

<The Model J DuesenbergDerham Tourster. Only eight of thesemagnificent cars wereever built – this is theonly example to be foundoutside the UnitedStates of America

Preserving Our Motoring Heritage

Documents

Routine maintenance and servicing · Maintenance schedule 1•3 1 Every 250 miles (400 km) or weekly m Refer to “Weekly Checks” Every 3000 miles (5000 km) or 3 months, whichever