PASTICCERIA INTERNAZIONALE World Wide Edition 28-2016

P A S T R Y B A K E R Y C O F F E E C U I S I N E

CHIRIOTTIEDITORI

10064 PINEROLO - ITALIA - Tel. +390121393127 - Fax +390121794480www.piwwe.com - [email protected] twenty-eight-2016

A CONCEPT WHICH BECOMES A LAB

WITH AMIATA IN HIS HEART

FROM TURIN TO LONDON

A MATTER OF STYLE

CHOCOLATE & GELATO RECIPES

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THE SHAPEOF HAPPINESS

We make paper baking moulds since 1939

www.ecopack.com

In this issue

A concept which has become a labChestnut mousse with milk chocolate and rum cremeThree flavors With Amiata in his heartFrom Turin to LondonA matter of styleFlavours from the worldIncreasingly gastronomicCoffee to eat

News

The PE-protect® allows your packaging to communicateDesign and functionality for Valentine’s DayIcy, the new blast chillerThe new era of gelato pastry starts in JapanA stage for unconventional flavors and innovationsPanna cotta and crème caramelPackaging for confectioneryThe five levers of tasteLine R makes even gelatoMany firsts as food and hospitality scene in Asia heats upBeauty and simplicityVegan OKDecoplotty is back

Editor-in-chief Livia Chiriotti Senior Editor

Emilia Coccolo Chiriotti News editors

Cristina Quaglia Milena Novarino

Web editorChiara Mancusi

Translations Windsor - PineroloMarketing editor Monica Pagliardi

Advertising strategies Francesco Coppola

Advertising director Ottavio Chiriotti

Art director Studio Impagina

Printed byTipografia Giuseppini

Pasticceria Internazionale World Wide Edition is happily published in Italy by Chiriotti Editori

Copyright © 2016 by Chiriotti Editori All rights reserved

No part of this magazine may be reproduced without prior written permission

from the publishing house

Supplement of “Pasticceria Internazionale” n. 279 - 2016

ON OUR COVERThe Mine by Rossano Vinciarelli

Pasticceria Internazionale World Wide Edition 10064 Pinerolo (Torino)

Viale della Rimembranza 60 tel. +39 0121 393127 - fax +39 0121 794480

[email protected]

2 www.piwwe.com - 28

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Defined as “the alchemist of confectionery” his book is considered as “the bi-ble”: Leonardo Di Carlo continues to evolve and, today, he identifies himself with his Pastry Concept

There are many factors which contribute to making a professional appre-ciated and respected for his method of teaching and transmitting know-ledge. However, there are two that are essential and we like to define them as the “double C” (even if, there is also luck), and they are culture and charm. Culture because in order to transmit, you need to know, scrutinize, research, listen and experiment... always putting these verbs into practise at the same time. Charm because you need a special energy in order to be able to involve others, which is, in part, a natural talent and, in part, is developed with experience. Charm can instil either fear or empathy, but in any case it is charm which can keep stuck and satisfy who it is directed to.A long introduction to present a well known professional, who has divulged a lot of his “confectionery knowledge” over the years, also through these pages and in collabo-ration with our own publishing house, with whom he has published “Tradizione in

Evoluzione - arte e scienza in pasticceria”, a sub-stantial manual, now in its second edition, updated and translated, with increasing success, also in En-glish as “Tradition in Evolution - The contempo-rary vision of confectionery”.Leonardo Di Carlo says he is a “trainer and not

A CONCEPT WHICH HAS BECOME A LAB

28 - www.piwwe.com 3

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an advisor”, being clear, straightaway, not only about his way of being but also the way he works. A pioneer of “scientific con-fectionery”, a term that is much exploited today, thanks to his way of thinking, his curiosity, his tendency to overturn the mindset of things taken for granted, he manages to make anyone who follows his courses and reads his manual a key player of their own profession. He is able to do this through his inspired passion and strong motivation, qualities matured over his long professional career, studded with experiences in laboratories, attending pre-stigious European schools, collaborating with famous colleagues, as well as parti-cipating in competitions, from the natio-nal Campionato Juniores Conpait, which he won in 1996, to the Seniores, won in 1998, without forgetting his third place at the World Pastry Cup in 2001 (where he also brilliantly won the Press Prize for the best chocolate entremets). He arrived first at the European Cup in 2002, while in 2004 he won gold at the World Cup at Sigep.From this introduction, a passion has grown for this art and he starts to travel abroad, following specialisation courses, as well as studying and his own library of bo-oks, with numerous volumes relating to this sector and which is enriched day after day.In January 2012, his manual is published, realizing his dream to collect all the basi-cs and practical tests into one flexible and useful instrument, which anyone can draw from to get answers and find the basics, in order to prepare their “own” recipes, in a complete journey into the world of con-fectionery.In 2015, following many requests from

abroad, the English version of his manual is published.Meanwhile he is now a much apprecia-ted TV judge of the Italian programme “Il più grande pasticcere” (The greatest confectioner) but he has not lost sight of another ambitious goal. In fact, from September, his Pastry Con cept, a real laboratory for research and

development with a classroom fitted with the most advanced technology has been opened. This new activity is situated in Conegliano, in the province of Treviso, and has come into being also thanks to the determination of his wife Michela.www.tradizioneinevoluzione.itwww.leonardodicarlo.comwww.pastryconcept.com

“The best teachers are those who help you where to look, but don’t tell you what you

are looking at”Leonardo Di Carlo

The words Leo uses as a mantra

OPEN

YOUR MIND

SHARE

TASTE

QU

ESTION

REASON AND SCRU

TINIZE

EXPERIMEN

T

LIST

EN


chocolate

Chestnut mousse with milk chocolate and rum cremeuxMousse structuresponge, lightly flavoured with rummilk chocolate and rum cremeuxsponge soaked in rumchestnut mousse

Syrupsyrup . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .g 200water . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .g 100rum . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .g 70

Milk chocolate and rum cremeuxmilk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .g 380cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .g 380egg yolks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .g 170sugar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .g 50milk chocolate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .g 700gelatine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .g 8water . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .g 40rum . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .g 150

Using the first 4 ingredients, prepare a crème anglaise by bringing milk and cream to the boil in a saucepan and, to one side, mix sugar and yolks together using a whisk . Once the milk has boiled, pour onto the yolks and sugar and heat to 82°C in a microwave oven . In the meantime, use the water to rehydrate the gelatine . Pour the crème anglaise onto the milk chocolate, making sure it has melted completely and mix well . Lastly, add the rum and gelatine, mix well using a whisk .

Chestnut moussecream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . L 1pâte à bombe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .g 300chestnut puree . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .g 500gelatine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .g 18water . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .g 90

Use the water to rehydrate the gelatine . Meanwhile, whip the cream in a planetary mixer using the whisk . Whip the pâte à bombe in a planetary mixer using the whisk . Dissolve the gelati-ne in a microwave oven, pour onto the pâte à bombe together with the chestnut puree and mix well, from the bottom towards the top . Pour the mixture into the cream, mixing from bottom to the top, being careful not to flatten the mousse .

AssemblyPrepare the filling in a ring 1 .5-2 cm smaller than the final disc . Place the ring on a tray lined with baking paper and a strip of acetate 3 cm high . Position a disc of sponge with the same diameter as the filling and wet it . Pour on the milk chocolate and rum cremeux, and finish with another sponge disc .Place an acetate sheet and a disc 4 cm high on a tray . Cut a strip of acetate 4 cm high and place it in the centre of the disc, making it stick at the edges . Pour on the chestnut mousse, put in the filling which has been chilled and removed from its ring, making sure there are no empty spaces or air bubbles . Place a sheet of baking paper on top, push down firmly using another tray, so that the end result is flat without any imperfections and chill . Remove from mould and decorate .

Roberto Cantolacqua RipaniPasticceria MimosaTolentino, Mc, Italy

www.pasticceriamimosa.itphoto Giancarlo Bononi

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chocolate

Three flavours Chocolate spongeeggs g 1000sugar g 630glucose g 30butter g 190flour g 375starch g 125cocoa g 100

Beat the eggs and sugar together Sift the powdered ingredients together, so the they are mixed together well, and fold into the mixture by handle Slowly pour in the melted butter Pour into a greased and floured cake tin

Bavarian creammilk g 1500sugar g 150egg yolks g 480sugar g 300gelatine sheets n 11

Beat the egg yolks with 300 g sugar Bring the milk to the boil with 150 g sugar Pour a part of the liquid onto the beaten egg and leave the rest on the heat Mix well, then pour the mixture into the milk left on the boil Squeeze out the gelatine, already left to soak in cold water, and add to the milk and yolks Stir and cook to approx 85°C Bring the temperature down to 40°C and divide the Bavarian cream into 3 equal parts At 30°C, prepare the 3 chocolate flavours by adding respectively 300 g dark chocolate, milk chocolate and white chocolate Leave to cool and add 1 L of cream to each one

Dark chocolate ganache dark chocolate g 50cream 38% fat g 50

Melt the chocolate and add the warm cream Milk chocolate ganache coveringmilk chocolate g 400white chocolate g 200cream 38% fat g 400glucose g 50gelatine sheets n 3

Warm the cream and the glucose to 40°C Add the gelatine, softened in cold water, and dissolve completely Then add to the white and milk covering, previously melted at 40°C AssemblyPrepare the sweet following the diagram Place on a grill and cover completely with the ganache covering Using a small paper piping bag, create lines with the dark chocolate ganache Using a spatula, delicately smooth the surface in order to blend the dark part Place on a tray and decorate

Antonio and Gianluca Le RoseIl Tempio del Cioccolato, Genova, Italy

www.iltempiodelcioccolato.itPhoto Andrea Pace


chocolate


NEWS

The PE-protect® allows your packaging to communicateThe PE-protect® is an innovative process that characterizes Atelier Tomas-sini’s packaging, making it interactive and suitable for food contact. PE-pro-tect® consists of printing and polycoating the internal packaging. The four characteristics that make Atelier Tomassini’s products unique are visible under the polyethylene layer:• linktope-protect.comtodownloadthecompliance certificate, according

to the European legislation in force;• productionlotnumberforproducttraceability;• recyclabilitysymbol.AllpackagingisclassifiedwithEuropeanC/PAP81

code, so than can be recycled as paper or cardboard;• Europeansymbolofsuitabilityforfood contact.

All this and much more can be found in Atelier Tomassini’s packaging. This revolutionary technology has made it possible to create not only simple contai-ners, but means of communication that are useful for all consumers. Polycoatingmakesthebox,paperandbandsturdier,whilealsocreatingabarrier that protects the contents from humidity and any harmful substances in glues and inks that could migrate and alter the sensory characteristics of the contents.TheAtelierTomassinipackagingcomesinawidevarietyofgraphiccombi-nations,withtexturesthatarealwaysuptodate.Toensurecustomersafety,suppliers are carefully selected and quality controls are constantly carried out, inordertoguaranteeexcellence.WithAtelierTomassiniyouwillhaveexclusivepackaging,entirelyMADEINITALY,createdwithgreatattentiontothecorrectuse of natural resources. www.ateliertomassini.com/en/

ICY, THE NEW BLAST CHILLERIrinoxhaslaunchedthenewblastchillerrangeIcy,dedicatedtochefswhowanttohavetheequipmentthemostcosteffectiveinitscategory,theeasiestto use and the fastest. It blast chills and shock freezes food, even boiling hot food just out of the oven. Icy range is composed by 3 models:ICYS–ICYM–ICYL,inwhichyoucanarrangefrom4to27GN1/1trays.Theoperatingprincipleofablastchillerconsistsofremovingheatfromfoodinthequickest

waypossible.Icy'sblastchillingandshockfreezingcyclesareultrarapid,preservingthefragrance,texture,coloursandnutritionalpropertiesoffoodintactformuchlonger.Itisprovidedwithacolourtouchscreendisplaywithintuitiveicons,thatlet the operator start the blast chilling or shock freezing cycle in just three steps.

Icy'sblastchillingcycleslowerthetemperatureatthecoreofthefoodupto+3°C,rapidlygoingthroughthehigh-risktemperaturerange(from+40°Cto+10°C)atwhichbacteriagrowfastestandcausenaturalageing.Italsohastwodedicatedblast chilling cycles: DELICATE + 3°C, suitable for the most delicate products such asmousse,crèmes,fish,rice,vegetablesandlowdensityfoodingeneral;andSTRONG +3°C, suitable for fatty, thick or packaged products such as meat, soups and sauces.Icy'sshockfreezingcyclestransformthemoistureinfoodintomicro-crystals,preservingitstextureandqualityformuchlonger.Icyhastwoshockfreezingcycles:DELICATE -18°Cdividedintotwostages(oneatpositiveandoneatnegativetempe-rature),suitableforbakedleavenedproductsorbread;STRONG -18°C rapidly deep freezesmedium-largecutsto-18°Catthecore,withairtemperaturereaching-30°C.It is also ideal for stabilizing the structure of gelato. To guarantee the best performance and utmost efficiency, Icy features IrinoxBalan-ceSystem®: the main refrigeration circuit components (compressor, evaporator, condenserandfans)areperfectlysized.ItisfittedwithMultiRack®,thepatentedadjustable tray holder that doubles the number of trays for each model.www.irinoxprofessional.com

THE FIVE LEVERS OF TASTEThe latest technological developments by Frigomat for the soft gelato field are Kiss 5 Power Vertical and Kiss 5 Power Verti-cal Backstage (builtinversion).Designedwithfivelevers,themachinesallowthemakingofmanyflavours(3flavours+2mix)and they therefore represent a unique offer among the premium manufacturers.Themachines,equippedwithelectroniccontrols,offertwose-parateautomaticfreezingcycleswithprogrammableconsistencylevel: the soft gelato and frozen yogurt program and the “creative” programforsorbets,semifreddos,andfruitgelatomadewithnatural ingredients.Thanks to their large freezing cylinder, it is possible to easily meet thepickofdemands,upto72kgperhourofproduction.Thecom-pleteautonomyofthemixstoragetanksalongwiththeindepen-dentconsistencycontrols,allowtheflavourcombination,eveninpresence of different consistencies, different dispensing quantities and frequencies.To complete the technical characteristics of the machines, there are tworefrigerationsystemswithsemi-hermetic compressors, three motors (one for each freezingcylinder),andthepossibility of independently turnoffoneortwoproductiongroups.ThepatentedCTSsy-stem prevents from functional anomalies, tripping in case of any operational error.TheKiss5PowerVerticalBackstage built-in version allowstheoperatortoworkfrom behind the machine, thanks to a structural design that facilitates all operations and to the pushbuttons on the rear panel. This design solutionallowstheuseofthemachinesalsowithself-servi-ce application. www.frigomat.com

quality • innovation • service

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This story beginsin your laboratory, where every step is important. You are an artist with the talent to captivate your

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The story is repeatedday a� er day and Modecor has been at your side for

years, with the widest assortment of ready decorations, innovate solutions and direct customer support.

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The reservedness and utmost professionalism of Rossano Vinciarelli show that you can be great without making a noise, but rather by moving quietly. Especially if you create

He won the Culinary World Cup in Luxembourg at the end of 2014, winning the title of World Champion Confectioner, but above all, he is a confectioner working in his la-boratory at the foot of mount Amiata, in Tuscany. He carries Amiata inside, both in his character and in his art. We are talking about Rossano Vinciarelli, a professional with a great curriculum, which has never been boasted about, who we met in his laboratory in Piancastagnaio, the last offshoot of the Siena province towards Lazio.

Who were your teachers?Mario Morri was one of the teachers I studied with and whose great humanity I was able to appreciate. I also attended courses with Luigi Biasetto, Luca Mannori, Eliseo Tonti and Pier Paolo Magni. Then there was Graziano Giovannini. I never attended his courses, but he has always been an idol for me, someone to take inspiration from and someone who I have had the honour to call a friend for many years. It is the human aspect of a professional relationship that is important for me, as well as the technical side. When I am together with my colleagues, I like to think of it as a party, where there are no prima donnas, with the chance to share our passion for what we do and show our reciprocal re-spect. To keep my feet firmly on the ground I often repeat to myself, no matter how many competitions we may win, no matter how famous we become and no matter how good we are at our job, we only mix flour, eggs and sugar, we don’t save lives. At best, we help to make it a bit more pleasant.Rossano’s mountain roots are evident in his way of being, his reservedness, humility, and yet he is resolute in his determination. They are also evident in his values that guide him in his work and in his life, in the simplicity which he likes to surround himself with. “I would never take part in a reality show on television,” he admits, “they are not for me. It is a false world which I don’t belong in”. In answer to my question, which is meant to provoke and be rhetoric, if he would recommend talent shows to a young person as a way to learn and become known, he gives me a knowing smile and adds: “You do not learn to be a confectioner on a talent show. Instead, you need a lot of humility and patience. And passion. You do not get anywhere without passion. Watching my students fills me with satisfaction, whether they are students from the professional colleges that come to me

WITH AMIATA IN HIS HEART

A photo taken in 2010 at the mine in Abbadia San Salvatore, in Tuscany, for the brochure ac-companying the piece by Rossano presented at the Culinary World Cup in Luxembourg, dedicated to the mining activity in Mount Amiata.


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to gain experience or confectioners that I train. They are all eager to show their abilities, manual skills, creativity without taking any shortcuts. In order to be able to do this job to their best they must con-tinue to be amazed. My task is only that to stimulate without imposing anything. Artists must be free if they want to create masterpieces. If they are able to move me with their work then I am truly happy”. So, what advice would you give to a young person who wants to become a pa-stry chef ?To never feel like you “have arrived”. If someone thinks that winning a competi-tion or a talent show is the goal to reach they are very much mistaken. I think that it must be considered, if anything, as the moment in which it is over, because you put yourself on a pedestal and you don’t put yourself to the test anymore.When was the turning point? That is, when you “left” your laboratory in order to gain worldwide success?Actually, there wasn’t a turning point. I continue working happily here in my laboratory. I don’t normally provide a consulting service and if I do take part in some competitions, it is because I don’t consider them as a showcase but as a way to grow from both a professional and hu-man point of view. Every time I take part in an event, especially international ones, it is an opportunity to compare myself to my colleagues. I believe that there is always something to learn from others. I can quite happily live off my work here, I indulge in a lot of holidays in order to spend time with myself and my family. I don’t need glitz, all I need is my mountain bike to go off into the woods in summer or walks on deserted beach near my house in Sardinia, these are the only luxuries that I indulge in. I dedicate my free time to my

daughters, Giorgia and Benedetta, and my wife Lia.There must have been a moment when you wanted to test yourself ?Yes. In 2000. When I took part in my first Italian Championship when nobody had ever heard of me before. I was awarded second place and it was a fantastic expe-rience. The following year, I entered again and I won. A victory that opened doors to international competitions. In 2002, I took part in my first Culinary World Cup in Luxembourg: those four gold medals were a great satisfaction! After other competitions, you were in Luxembourg again in 2010. What do you remember about that?On that occasion, I really wanted to win because I had brought my land and its tra-ditions with me. I presented a piece called “the Mine”, obviously it was dedicated to the mining activity in Amiata. I had put everything into it because never before had I felt such an inspiration. However, I lost by a narrow margin. I tried again in

2014. Again with a theme linked to Amia-ta, the Mille Miglia automobile race, whi-ch is an unmissable event here. This time it went well, with much satisfaction and the chance to promote my territory through my art.It is no coincidence that the Mayors of the two towns in the Amiata territory that Rossano divides himself between, Abbadia San Salvatore and Piancastagna-io, wanted to give him a recognition, by awarding him straightaway after his vic-tory as world ambassador of that beautiful and unknown corner of Tuscany. Rossano is not alone in his international adventu-re. “My women are with me, my wife and my two sisters Nadia and Osanna. When I decide to take part in a competition, at first they grumble but then they give me their support. When I am getting ready they give me the time necessary, they take on as many tasks as possible so that I can concentrate. They are my judges, they give me ideas and advice. As do my friends who allow themselves to be involved in

The prize giving ceremony in Luxembourg in 2014. Rossano during the award ceremony at the Town Hall of Piancastagnaio, after his victory in Luxembourg in 2014, being presented with a wooden sculpture by a local artist. He is with his daughters Giorgia and Benedetta and wife Lia.

Inside view of his pastry shop.


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my experimentation and always show me how proud they are of me. Most of my victories in competitions I owe to them, without whom I wouldn’t have so much enthusiasm”. What is your typical day?I get up at 3 in the morning, at 3,30 a.m. I am already in my laboratory until 1 p.m.. Then we start again at 3 p.m. until the eve-ning. In summer, I like to find time to go for a ride on my mountain bike, it makes me feel good. Instead, in winter, I often close the shop and I stay in my laboratory to study. I turn off my phone, put on some music and spend a few hours experimen-ting, trying, creating. What about your customers?My customers have rather traditional ta-stes. Normally, I don’t offer the recipes that I create for competitions in my shop, because there would not be a market for them, both in terms of flavour and price. Instead, I prepare them for special oc-casions and on request. Nevertheless, I always use top quality ingredients in my

daily production. I only love aromas that are natural, and do not use anything che-mical. I do not use margarine. Of course, in this way, my margins are low, but I am not interested in selling for its own sake. If

I only considered making a profit, I would be the first to feel dissatisfied, I would have to do another kind of work. I am sure that in the long run, this is the only rewar-ding attitude. How do you see the future for confectio-nery?I hope we go back to what we were. Tra-dition and high quality are what we are known and appreciated for all over the world. Underselling in order to follow fa-shion and trends is something that does not belong to us and I consider it a mista-ke. That does not mean we should not be innovative. I am convinced that you can be innovative while still respecting tradition and, above all, without losing anything in terms of quality.

Maria Luisa Lucchesiviaggiaegusta.blogspot.it

photos Gabriele Forti

The Mille Miglia (Thousand Miles) automobile race was an open-road endurance race which took place in Italy from 1927 to 1957. Since 1977, it has been reborn as a regularity race for classic and vintage cars. Participation is limited to cars, pro-duced no later than 1957, which had attended (or were registered) to the original race. The route (Brescia-Ro-me round trip) is similar to that of the original race.

Work carried out for the piece “The Mine”.

Rossano’s craftsmanship, precision and good taste are shown in his works. This car is inspired by the Mille Miglia race.


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Lime and gianduia fresh tart Hazelnut bacio di damabutter g 100flour 160W g 100hazelnut flour g 100sucrose g 100grated lemon rind g 10

Mix all the ingredients together in a mixer using the paddle attachment When the mixture is homogeneous remove from the mixer and leave to rest in the fridge before rolling it out Bake at 170°C

Gianduia ganache cream 35% fat g 300invert sugar g 50milk chocolate couverture 35% g 500hazelnut paste g 60

Boil cream and invert sugar together Pour onto the hazelnut paste and chopped chocolate, then start the emulsion using a rubber spatula Stabilize with a handheld blender and pour into mould straightaway

Lime creamfresh milk g 300glucose g 15gelatine sheets g 16Ivoire chocolate couverture 35% g 440cocoa butter g 15cream 35% mg g 600grated lime rind g 12

Boil milk and glucose, add the gelatine which has been softened in water and squeezed Then add the rest of the ingredients in sequence using a rubber spatula Lastly, stabilize the emulsion using a handblender, pour into silicon moulds and chill

AssemblyOnce baked, leave the hazelnut bacio di dama to cool at room temperature Pour the ganache and put in a blast chiller In the meantime, glaze the lime cream with the neutral gelatine Stabi-lize the ganache, and place the lime cream on top Decorate, for example with fresh fruit (strawberries, raspberries or pineapple) or decorate with caramel or chocolate Serving temperature +4°C

Rossano Vinciarelli


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NEWS

THE NEW ERA OF GELATO PASTRY STARTS IN JAPANPastry chefs from Japan gathered last November in Tokyo for the Gelato Pastry University first course, the training program dedicated to gelato pastry for professionals, held in Carpigiani Japan’s premises. The teaching team is led by Alessandro Racca, the internationally re-nowned gelato and pastry chef, while Shigekatsu Kimura and Hiroyuki Emori, among the most known Japanese pastry chefs, complete the talented team. GPU offers participants a high-level curriculum, employing part of Carpigiani Gelato University’s methods and objectives. The school is designed to meet the needs of professionals looking to expand their training, and aiming to develop new and creative product lines. There are five types of courses. Each one lasts 6 hours and focuses on basic gelato making, gelato cakes, French- and Italian-style small pastry, pastry shop business and much more. Carpigiani has chosen to place the school in Japan because it is a country where the art of pastry has reached maximum levels of perfection and innovation. “We can only be pleased with the great success of this first course and the warm welcome it has received. The courses at the Gelato Pastry University are run by pro-fessional chefs who are already successfully involved in the gelato business – says Mr. Lorenzo Scrimizzi, president of Carpigiani Japan –. And this is very important because the objectives we want to achieve through this school are to create a ‘laboratory of ide-as’, to propose various business models, to promote the use of professional equipment in the production kitchen as a tool to increase productivity as well as quality and safety of the final product”. www.carpigiani.com

A stage for unconventional flavors and innovationsUnusual combinations and unconventional flavors, cutting-edge technological innovations, special guests and great masters: these are the main ingredients at Sigep by Bravo. A meeting full of news, events and live cooking shows, where the biggest names of the Italian and international sweet world entertain the guests with their creations, and with a special encounter dedicated to the protagonists of the Italian tv show “Il più grande pasticcere”. The Vip area is an artistic stage where a young Parisian chef, Jonathan Blot, proposes a menu with several courses reinterpreting the Italian gelato “made with Tritti-co”, with the aim of bringing in an “unconventional paradise” those who taste his dishes.The company shows an important innovation: Bravo Insight, the new technology that helps to take advantage of the functions of the machine, detecting use errors and con-stantly keeping excellent results. www.bravo.it - configurator.bravo.it

Panna cotta and crème caramel

Bigatton offers two classic desserts loved by all those who like the original tastes of Italy: the panna cotta and the crème caramel, two preparations in powder for tasty desserts. Easy to prepare, excellent taste: 150 g of Crème Caramel Dessert are sufficient for 1 litre of milk. Just bring the mixture to a boil and pour into a mould.Dessert Panna Cotta is packaged in bags of 2.5 kg, 3 bags per carton, while Crème Caramel is packaged in bags of 2.5 kg, 6 bags per carton. www.bigatton.it

Montecchio Maggiore (VI) Italy Tel. 0039.0444.707.700

[email protected] - www.bravo.it

//bravospa

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The story of Marco Miglioli, a young man from Turin, enlisted into the court of Michel Roux Jr. together with Steve Groves

in the London kitchen of Roux at Parliament Square

Marco Miglioli is not yet 30, but has already been working for years in the kitchen of Roux at Parliament Squa-re. It was a short trip from Turin to London, even if rich in experience, matured before by following Antonino Cannavacciuolo and then Andrea Berton. After attending schools in the capital of the Piedmont region, Miglioli becomes part of the group at Villa Crespi at Orta San Giulio, in the province of Novara, where he meets another person important for his professional trai-ning, the chef Fabrizio Tesse. He learns manual skills, precision and discipline from him, which are fundamental characteristics in cooking that shape his flair and character. Due to his determination and temperament he is chosen by Steve Groves, head chef at Roux at Parliament Square, the court of Michel Roux Jr. The star-rated chef, famous for his Le Gavroche in London and for being a judge on the television programme, Master Chef Uk, has two other restaurants in the City: Roux at the Landau and Roux at Parliament Square. The latter boasts a very loyal client base, predominantly made up of politicians and members of parliament (at lunch) and Londoners (at dinner). Here, the lunch menu is changed every week and there are always new pro-posals. Marco Miglioli, today senior sous chef, is responsible for the lunch menu as well as having other duties, “I personally follow the choice of the lunch menu, which I then give to Steve Groves for his final approval. We always try to vary what is on offer, and even though the menu has a British form, it ranges from France, home of Michel Roux Jr, to Italy with a few tributes to Piedmont, which is home for me”. Indeed, Piedmont: with Turin blood in his veins (on his father’s side), together with that of Campania on his mother’s side, Miglioli has grown up with cooking in his heart thanks to the love his parents have always had for gastronomic culture, and not only

FROM TURIN TO LONDON

Agnolotti del plin are a type of pasta typical of the Piedmont region, made with small pieces of flatte-ned pasta dough, folded over filling of roasted meat or vegetables. Agnolotti is the plural form of the Ita-lian word agnolotto. They have a small, rectangu-lar shape and ‘plin’ means a ‘pinch’, because they have to be pinched with thumb and forefinger to close and seal the little pasta packets. Agnolotti del plin are almost always made by hand and are typi-cal of Langhe and Monferrato. They are cooked by immersion in boiling water and then dressed in a beef broth and a little melted butter or in a fresh sage and melted butter sauce. In both cases they are topped with Parmigiano Reggiano cheese.


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for local products. Suffice to think of the Saturdays spent at the Tu-rin market of Porta Palazzo, from an early age, choosing the best products from farmers of the area, understanding the differences between the various cheeses and the cured meats that make this territory great. If, prawns and scampi appear regularly among the protagonists of the menu, proposals linked to meat and pasta dishes from r, ma-rinated duck yolk, crunchy artichokes) reinterpreted by Miglioli

himself. “Our menu,” explains Groves who after having worked at Gavroche with Michel Roux Jr, arrived here in 2010, “takes into account seasonal products and local ingredients. The of-fer is based very much on fish and meat and research into the raw ingredients is almost an obsession”. Thirty-three years old, work experience at Noma, experience at Launceston Place and in America, then the victory at Master Chef Uk in 2009 are some of the steps that have marked Groves’ career. “One of the secrets of our success is our team spirit and the united team that we have managed to create together with Marco”. Here, in this kitchen which where innovation, lightness and freshness are strong points, Groves admits proudly another thing he is proud: the desserts. “I love preparing the sweets because it requires precision, discipline, rules and rigor, more than in other dishes. There is always a choice of two sweets as well as cheese in our lunch menu, whereas there are four sweets in the dinner menu. Our pride and joy is our Sticky Toffee Pudding, which we try to offer in a lighter version and is served with our Guiness gelato, whose unexpected flavour goes well with the chocolate and caramel. Gelato is another of our specialities. It is always included in our menu and we offer different flavours. Everyone likes gelato, don’t they?!”.

Sarah Scaparonekiteinnepal.com

Cylinder 70%, malt caramel, guinness gelato Guanaja 70% chocolate g 300unsalted butter g 25gelatine leaf n ½hot water ml 25egg yolks n 2olive oil ml 200egg whites g 145

Put the chocolate in a heatproof bowl set over a pan of gently simmering water, making sure the water doesn’t touch the base of the bowl Stir until melted, being careful to keep any water away from the chocolate or it will thicken and become grainy Stir in the butter, then place the bowl to one side, keeping it warm Soak the gelatine in cold water for about 5 minutes, until soft and pliable Put the hot water in a small bowl Squeeze out excess water from the gelatine and add it to the hot water, stirring until dissolved Set aside Whisk the egg yolks together Slowly drizzle in the olive oil a little at a time, whisking constant-ly, as if making mayonnaise Stir in the gelatine water and then carefully add the mixture to the chocolate Whisk the egg whites briefly, just to break them down (they should not be white and frothy), then carefully fold them into the chocolate mixture Pour the mixture into moulds

Malted caramelsugar g 75 water g 120milk g 170Caramelia chocolate g 190salt g 1,5malt extract g 60

Guinness gelatopanna g 600yolks g 540sugar g 450gelato stabilizer g 100gelatines n 6Guinness ml 1500

Heat cream Dissolve gelatines in cream Combine dry ingredien-ts with yolks Add cream Add Guinness

Steve Groves www.rouxatparliamentsquare.co.uk

Qualitythat

evolves.

WE WAIT YOU AT: SIGEP, RIMINI STAND B3-200GELATISSIMO, STOCCARDA STAND 7-E22

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Ingredients, preparation and technical advice to work like him.Renato Ardovino explains everything to us.

The first page of the book “Il Cake Design” has an image of the book itself suspended among small cakes and tools like the protagonist of a magical universe dedicated to cakes. Pages soa-ked in colour and taste, with leading decoration techniques, in order to wander among advice that inspires to this rich world of sugar.It is up to us to believe or not in our dreams. Renato Ardovino’s dream was that to become an artist. Today, he takes trouble over the appearance of his confectionery and for some years cake design has given him the possibility to communicate his gratification to everyone for a job that allows him to express himself as he always wanted. Wanting to taste some of his love for this profession, we asked him to tell us about his “professional first time” and what con-fectionery is for Renato.“The first time I met this magical world goes back to time immemorial when, little more than a teenager, I was working in a holiday village where I took care of other things and where, considering my creative talent, I was left free to decorate desserts and cakes for special events. Bewitched by this art and with all the recklessness of my youth, it was like working in an alche-mist’s laboratory. By following precise rules and letting my fantasy run wild, it was possible to prepare compositions that surprised the guests”.Years later, he confides confectionery is still all this for him: dictates, precise methodology, technique but also imagination, flair and a lot of creativity. A creativity that dares, a little also for necessity, since customers have absurd requests, as he tells us. Every time a different com-position that amuses him, enriching his creative streak.If Ardovino was a decorating style, which would he be? Difficult to say. He does not like

A MATTER OF STYLE


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to be enclosed in a definition. Always re-searching new terms and techniques, the constants that can be found in the diffe-rent styles of his compositions are indi-spensable: harmony of the proportions, balance, sobriety, the careful choice and the combination of flavours, colours and shapes, the lightness of the mixture, the freshness and top quality of the raw materials. “Attention to taste has always accompanied the research for beauty”, he explains. “Elegant” is the adjective that best describes his artistic mark in the wor-ld of modern decoration. It is still a matter of style (as one chapter of his book is entitled). He is an art direc-

tor of cakes, but he still has customers that choose “my patron with sacrosanct reque-sts”. So how does he conciliate this with a personal creative taste?It seems that listening is an essential ele-ment in the work of a cake designer (as in many other situations in life). Listening to what people say allows his creativity to make a magic moment.Those who put their trust in Ardovino for important events already know how he works and know what to expect. Of course, there are times when a customer asks for elements that do not go well to-gether. He filters each request, refining it according to his taste. “It is better to pre-

pare a preliminary sketch and in the end everyone is happy to trust me!” The first thing to study before proposing a project, especially if it is daring, concerns the hold and stability of the composition in fun-ction of the base and the filling, as well as the number and dimensions of the deco-rations. The latter is a fundamental aspect for the delicate phases of transportation and displaying. Only then, is time dedica-ted to analysis and the choice of the shapes first, and colours after.Fashion and design in general are sources of inspiration. Flair is also nourished from other sources such as perfume, nature, music, people themselves, because every

Your specialities, our passion.

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element, even seemingly irrelevant, can trigger new ideas for original recipes and designs.

“How a cake is created” is a chapter in your book. From a technical point of view, what are the presuppositions for a good project? A good cake design project needs time. Each step requires the necessary time in order to be able to carry out a technique fully (some require days). Among the most important technical advice, I always recommend choosing shapes, bases and filling that allow you to start with a stable base, onto which decorations can be ad-ded, even the most daring shapes.How do you interpret a classic piece of Italian confectionery in an international setting?I start with the prerequisite that the clas-sics do not need to be enhanced, because alone they represent the maximum expres-sion of our culinary traditions that are known and appreciated all over the world. However, even in this case, cake design can help us to give an outstanding aesthetic va-lue. There are some traditional Italian swe-ets, more than others, that lend themselves to being used in daring compositions (for example the Cassata or the Caprese). Which is your favourite covering? The covering is the dress that covers our cake and like a dress it must be suitable for the occasion. A cover in sugar paste gives a neutral base on which you can design the most varied of styles. Chocolate paste is suitable for more sweet toothed occasions, while a naked cake is the guest of honour at a country style party. For those who are

new to layered cakes I always recommend starting with a sugar paste covering, which gives a cleaner and more stable base. If you are a beginner, I recommend practising for a long time in order to become familiar with the covering. Even the most simple project can make a difference if done with great care.The filling is essential to the creation. How do you match it to the flavour and the consistency of the chosen mixture?Also in this case it is creativity that com-mands and, therefore, the combinations can be the most varied and contrasting. An important rule to follow is balance, avoid using combinations that lets the character of the filling (as regards both flavour and consistency) prevail over that of the mixture and vice versa. For the sum-mer months, my two forte are Blueberry cake and Raspberry Soffio cake. In the first one the delicate blueberry base marries well with the amiability of a cream made with mascarpone and the crunchiness of the meringue. In the second one, the sweet flavour of the raspberries contrasts the strong character of the cheese and the robust flavour of the toasted almonds. For the colder months, the main ingredient is chocolate. A crunchy cake represents the jubilation of chocolate from the mixture to the filling, and the finishing. The reci-pes for these cakes are all in my book. How do you get your silver reflections (twinkles) of the isomalt crystals?I inserted edible silver flakes. In this way the luminosity of the isomalt gives even more brightness to the silver.In conclusion, what are the new trends in decorating?

Renato Ardovino IL CAKE DESIGNMalvarosa Edizioni www.malvarosaedizioni.it

Bridal fashion dictates the trends for everything that rotates around the world of weddings. The wedding cake and the sweet table always match the dress and the decorations at the wedding reception. The nowadays trend requires very richly decorated cakes with lace, embroidery, flowers, gilding and sparkles bordering on Baroque. All rigorously edible. Instead, the most requested colours are those tradi-tionally associated with this event: white, ivory and powder pink. Smaller cakes are inspired by the cartoons in fashion at the moment. In all of these cases, the fillings and the bases requested refer to traditio-nal Italian confectionery even if, recently, English mixtures, that are more suitable for cake design, are being rediscovered.

Chiara Mancusi

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NEWS

Packaging for confectioneryAs an inherently family-owned but internationally focused company, Ecopack boasts a history of almost 80 years in the world of baking moulds and packaging intended for the production of confectionery. The city where all began in 1939, Turin, is the pulsating heart of a group, which today counts other 4 sites (Brazil, Canada, India and Russia) in 3 different continents, but also the new-born production plant in Tunisia, the ultimate challenge of the Ferri family and their over 200 collaborators.From the moulds for traditional Italian cakes, such as the panettone and the colomba (Easter dove), the pies, the baking paper cases, and the muffins, to the recent lotus paper cups, Ecopack adopts a comprehensive approach, which starts with the design and manufacturing of moulds and prototypes for new productions, always working in close cooperation with the confectionery industries, and finishes with the production and the final customer sale.It is therefore a continuously evolving technology, which, however, focuses on environ-mental factors. And it is in this view that the company uses a type of recyclable, biode-grable paper, which is certified for food contact, thus ensuring many more advantages over other materials, not only in terms of low environmental impact, but also in terms of consumers’ health.Nevertheless, the real added value of the whole Ecopack’s group is represented “by the people”, as the CEO Annalisa Ferri points out firmly: “Ecopack is a sort of evolving, self-sustaining and improving ecosystem, which needs the cooperation of everyone. It is a successfully working business, since everyone has the opportunity to be heard and to make his or her own contribution”. www.ecopack.com

Line R makes even gelatoOne machine, lots of applications: with this claim Staff Ice System, in the market of cold equipment since 1959, introduces its R Line including eleven models. High quality components and great versatility make these multi-function machines a must for professionals.Each machine is supplied with features that grant the best performances and reliability in all those recipes that require temperature control during the heating, cooling and mixing phase. Therefore they are particularly suitable for the making of custard cream, candied orange peels, bran for pie, nougat, fondant sugar, melting chocolate, ganache, wheat for "pastiera", jellies, jams and much more. They also give the opportunity to offer daily high quality gelato, frozen desserts, cakes and "granita". The multi-function machines represent both innovation and craftsmanship. They preserve the organoleptic properties of ingredients, because during the pasteu-rization cycle the tempera-tures are always lower than those of boiling. The perfect integration between basic electronics and the inverter enables to obtain any kind of mix, without limits to cre-ativity, as made by hand. www.staff-ice.com

Design and functionality for Valentine's Day The most romantic day of the year deserves a special cake. The new heart-sha-ped stainless steel rings by Martellato allow to quickly and easily prepare tarts, semifreddos and gelato cakes. To design them, Martellato took inspiration from the timeless symbol of passion and rings are now available in three variants, each of them in six sizes.Resistant and easy-to-clean, the stainless steel rings are suitable for both freezing and baking. They ensure even and flat baking, the easy removal of cakes from the moulds themselves, thus keeping their surface and their organoleptic properties intact. Mainly designed for pastry and gelato shops, the rings are easy-to-use and therefore also suitable for restaurants and hotels that want to offer their customers finely decorated cakes. Moreover, Martellato provides customized solutions upon request and for large orders.Once again, the company based in Padua has reaffirmed its commitment to innovation. For a personal touch, the spring/summer collection includes also polyethylene moulds for the making of chocolate tags, to "personalize" cakes with messages. www.martellato.com

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FLAVOURS FROM THE WORLD

“I have always loved travelling” says Giovannino Fittipaldi, gelato maker based in Ca-stelluccio Inferiore, near Potenza (Italy), who always has his suitcase at hand. “Every time I arrive in a new place, I have a desire to learn and I start talking to people, asking information, to get new ideas which I then transform into gelato”. He does highly intensive consultancy work for those who want to open a business or improve their artisanal production, going wherever he is required. He does not hesitate to travel to unusual destinations, where he teaches the secrets and techniques of production, at the same time, learning new things by experimenting with innovative and local raw mate-rials. From Africa to Southern Italy, here, he tells us some of the experiences that he has had over the past few months. Giovannino Fittipaldi is continuing his consultancy work for opening gelato parlours in the world. For information, write to [email protected]

Some months ago I had the chance to get to know two important African nations: Ghana and the Democratic Republic of Congo. In Ghana, a French-Lebanese group opened a gelato parlour offering handmade gelato and a pizzeria-restaurant giving them an Italian name: Pinocchio. It is an elegant establishment in Accra, the capital, where the Lebanese business man Rouda Ezzedine, as well as introducing the use of raw materials coming from our country, also equipped a laboratory with Italian machi-nery. One morning, accompanied by a local person, I ventured into the savannah and I was shown the Moringa, whose dried leaves are used to make an infusion called Green Moringa, which is well known in Ghana and other African nations for its beneficial properties. Intrigued, I went to a village to procure some of these dried leaves and I produced Green Moringa gelato, which aroused the curiosity and the appreciation of many of our customers. Instead, when I was in Kinshasa, in the Democratic Republic of Congo, with my friend Ali Fawaz, manager of the colourful and very busy gelato parlour N’Gelato, we went to visit a friend of his. Some baobab trees were growing nearby his house, full of fruit that looked like raspberries. I gathered some and when I got back to the labora-tory, I got to work transforming them into a tasty baobab gelato, prepared with what is defined as the “fruit of life”. Many of our traditions are also present in this gelato par-lour, from the equipment to the ingredients. The bases are prepared with ingredients coming from Italian companies, while for logistic reasons the milk and powdered milk using water in 20 litre canisters come from Belgium.Coming back to Italy, last summer in Lecce, while I was looking at the fruit and ve-getable stalls in the market, I came across a vegetable called carosello, which is a mix-ture between a melon and a cucumber. At the gelato parlour Baldieri Dolce&Salato I made it into a fresh and tasty gelato, which could also be perfectly combined in re-staurant menus. Since I was in Salento, how could I not think of the highly acclaimed Pasticciotto, a typical sweet and representative of local traditions? So I suggested to the owner of the gelato parlour, Paolo Baldieri, that he should transform it and be the first to present the Pasticciotto gelato!.

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Green moringa gelatowater . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . g 780 sucrose . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . g 155dextrose . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . g 50moringa (micronized powder) . . . . . . . . . . g 10neutro . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . g 5Total . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . g 1000Put all the solid ingredients together and mix, then add the water . When the mixture reaches 30°C, increase the temperature to 80°C, leave to settle and then blast chill to 4°C . Cream using the batch freezer .

Baobab gelato water . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . g 475 baobab fruit pulp . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . g 230semi/skimmed UHT milk . . . . . . . . . . . . . g 80fresh cream 35% . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . g 80sucrose . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . g 70dextrose . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . g 20dehydrated glucose . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . g 20invert sugar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . g 15fruit base 50 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . g 10Total . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . g 1000Heat all the liquids to 30°C, to one side, mix the solid ingredients together (apart from the baobab fruit pulp) and put all together at 80°C . Blast chill to 4°C, then add the well-blended baobab fruit pulp, mix and cream .

Carosello gelato carosello . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . g 400water . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . g 390 sucrose . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . g 160fruit base 50 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . g 50Total . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . g 1000Heat the water to 30°C, mix together the fruit base 50 with the sucrose and sprinkle in . Then heat to 80°C, blast chill to 4°C, and add the carosello, peeled and without seeds . Blend, leave to settle and cream .

Giovannino Fittipaldi

DECOPLOTTY IS BACK Modecor presents the new Decoplotty High Tech: the food plotter which prints directly on all kind of cakes is back in a new version. The machine is on show at Sigep during 3 days of dedicated demos, where the Modecor team specialized in food printers illustrate the new features including automatic cake height detection through the infrared sensors (maximum height H14cm); 3 minutes print speed for A3 format; ink cartridges with integrated print head (a new print head at each cartridge change and a cartridge for each colour); printing area for baking trays up to 40x60 cm, allowing the cakes to be printed directly while they are on the baking trays. Moreover, the food plotter is equipped with the new Decoplotty Creator, a software developed specifically to set the printing directly from the computer.The super food certification and the Modecor direct technical support, which will guide you from the first installation (with dedicated training) to all the machinery operations, complete the offer. www.modecor.it

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Not just a provocation or an experiment: gastronomic gelato, with its illustrious and long history, returns to being a functional accompaniment to savoury dishes

Contrary to what happens with traditional gelato, in or-der to balance savoury or gastronomic gelato, the quality of the sugars is more important (considering their an-ti-freezing and sweetening abilities), than the quantity. It is better to choose those with a low level of sweetness, so that the composition, being less sweet, highlights the flavour of the main ingredients, ranging from flavourful cheese, smoked fish, foie gras, vegetables, spicy extra vir-gin olive oil…We ask clarification about this from Leonardo Ceschin: a gelato maker with proven experience, he has been ow-ner of the Esquimau gelato parlour in Pordenone since 1987 (www.esquimau.it) and was captain of the Italian team that won the Gelato World Cup in 2012. In this year, gastronomic gelato was introduced as part of the contest regulations.

How important is the role of the chef in the prepara-tion of gastronomic gelato?I believe that the collaboration of a chef is crucial, since it effects the balance of a dish created by the same. Col-laboration is necessary to give the correct strength and complexity to gastronomic gelato. Another important point is that it has become part of cooking as a detail that gives value to a dish and not the other way round. What position is given to gelato in the context of a meal? Gelato can be the protagonist in starters, pre-dessert and end of meal. The skill is in making space for it with the blessing of the tablemates, starting from the “welcome” or amuse bouche, with canapés that can transform them-selves into gelato to be served in small doses, mignon, little balls… For the starter, flavours have to be still very light and vegetable, to then we can dive into the consom-me, directly from hot to cold, with a shiver of pleasure.

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We can even try with a pasta dish, or have a break with a sorbet, preferably citrus, to then continue the challenge with main dishes prepared with gastronomic gelato. Here there is the rule of respect: never in-vasive, but “in love”, arm in arm. The offer should enchant from the first spoonful until it remains imprinted in the memory. Arriving at the end, there is room for an avant dessert, a bridge between the last course and the real dessert. Usually it is an offer that “pampers”. In this way we can guarantee an end of meal in the best tra-dition of a true gelato, including pairing it with great meditation wines (a whole chapter to consider). It all depends on being able to know how to fuse a balance between pleasure and good taste.How is a traditional ingredient that is normally served hot turned into gelato?This is the best part of our job: even thou-gh we are not specialists in cooking, it is possible to collaborate with a chef, who will advise us on how to obtain a semi-fi-nished product which is suitable for our production. It is necessary to verify the type of food and choose the most suitable technique. One example is that of cod ca-librated for an avant dessert, which should be served as a lollipop, not too “loaded” with flavour, but which is also the right “answer” to the idea of a combination between fish and chocolate, covered with freeze-dried raspberries. After various trials, first with fresh cod and then by me-asuring a part of salted codfish (richer in flavour), and by using vacuum cooking at a low temperature, I managed to find the right balance. Sometimes the result is di-sappointing but other times it gives you goose bumps!Where do you see “savoury gelato” outsi-de of the re urant? I see it fitting well in situations where you want to surprise with offers that are not common. For example, in small cubes or other shapes that are ready to be used, because, I think that it should also make an impression for its unusual shapes or in a contrasting situation, possibly hot/cold, which amplifies the value of the of-fer. Compositions aesthetically inviting in their shape but also colours can accom-pany the line of the buffet and “rejuvinate” the way to offer gelato. The great advan-tage is being able to work almost any in-gredient and therefore multiply the occa-sions, reworking and putting the focus on the main product.

Pre dessert lollipop with salted codfish gelato

Salted codfish gastronomic gelato %milk (filtered from the cod) 58 15dextrose 9 00powdered glucose 5 00 trehalose 2 00powdered skimmed milk 5 00milk protein 0 75neutro 0 30fresh cream 35% 15 00extra virgin olive oil 2 00Italian meringue 2 50 Maldon salt 0 30

For 1 kg, use 350 g of cod, half fresh and half frozen Leave the frozen cod under running water for 1 hour, then remo-ve the skin and vacuum cook at a low temperature For the fresh cod, use cleaned fillets and also vacuum cook at a low tempe-rature Add to the milk, cover and leave to rest in the fridge for at least 24 hours Filter and use the milk obtained to prepare the salted codfish gelato The meringue in this recipe has a low sweetening power The pre dessert lollipop with salted codfish is paired with dark chocolate and crystallized raspberries

Leonardo Ceschin Equimau, Pordenone, Italy

www.esquimau.itStefano Buttazzoni

Ristorante Da Otto, Timau, Ud, Italywww.ristorantedaotto.it

Senza titolo-2 1 22/12/15 10:35


NEWS

Vegan OKThe new gelato Fiordilatte base by Fabbri 1905 has got the “Vegan Ok” stamp certified by Bioagricert. It is a vegan flavour that can be prepared with rice or soy milk. It is excellent as it is, but it is also a base to prepare a whole range of flavours. It represents the first step of the wide “Vegan OK” offer that Fabbri 1905 launches for the 2016 season: a range of classic gelato flavours in a 100% vegan version, thus proving the company’s precursory role in this innovative field. www.fabbri1905.com

Many firsts as food and hospitality scene in Asia heats upThe international food and hospitality scene is heating up with Asia taking the lead, thanks to FHA2016 (Food&HotelAsia2016), the most established and comprehensive region’s food and hospita-lity trade show. The new exhibitors will bring with them a range of new products and ingredients, equipment and supplies, and best-of-breed services. This results in a bigger and more diverse exhibition profile, offering more choices than ever before to indu-stry buyers, and adds to FHA’s appeal as the tradeshow to see and be seen at. “For the 2016 event, we are seeing many new local and interna-tional companies joining us for the very first time. This is a firm reflection of the importance the industry places in the event, and solidifies its position as the event of choice for food and hospitality players, mega and small, from across the region and beyond,” says Ms. Ting Siew Mui, Project Director of Lifestyle Events at Singapore Exhibition Services, organiser of FHA.Held from 12 to 15 April at the Singapore Expo, FHA2016 will indeed highlight many firsts, including first-time exhibitors, both local conglomerates and global brands, and news international group pavilions of nations such as Algeria, Hungary, Poland, The Netherlands, while for the first time space will be extended to accommodate exhibitors from FoodAsia. FHA2016 will clock another first with its unveiling of ProWine Asia 2016. Teaming up with Messe Düsseldorf Asia to bring this newest ProWein satellite event to FHA, the show presents an ideal gateway for international producers of wine and spirits wishing to tap into the Southeast Asia market. The first Hotels & Resorts Management conference track will explore topics on suitable business models for hospitality owners, the use of smart technology for operational efficiency, sustainable hotel design and new design trends for hotels and resorts, as well as an update on new hospitality projects in the Asian region.Covering sustainable kitchen concepts and design, the new segment at the Food and Beverage Design, Technology & Operations conferen-ce track features case studies on effective designs to maximise productivity, trends in menu engineering and successful outsourcing of culinary preparations.FHA2016 International Conference will discuss key issues affecting the food and hospitality industry, looking at commercial opportunities for hotels, green hotel design, big data analytics for smart operations, and food traceability, to name a few. Joint plenary sessions featuring CEO Insights, Stakeholders Panel Discussions and think tanks will see experts from around the world sharing their perspectives and views on the latest trends in the food and hospitality sectors. FHA2016 will feature six specialised exhibitions, namely FoodAsia, HotelAsia, SpecialityCoffee&Tea, Bakery&Pastry, HospitalityStyleAsia and HospitalityTechnology, each with their own unique themes and areas of focus. Adding to the holistic experience, FHA2016 will host a series of activities including intense, prestigious competitions targeting professional. These include the FHA Culinary Challenge 2016, the FHA Barista Challenge 2016, the FHA Latte Art Challenge 2016, Asian Pastry Cup 2016 and the new Sweet High Tea Challenge (part of the renowned FHA Culinary Challenge). Open to teams from hotels, restaurants, confectionaries, airlines, culinary training institutes and catering establishmen-ts, will see teams of two competing to impress judges with a high tea set for six. www.foodnhotelasia.com

Beauty and simplicity Sinuous lines distinguish ZEN, the molds by Siliko-mart Professional which are characterized by great flexibility and unique design. Beauty and simplicity merge with experience and creativity, aiming at a perfect balance between harmony and proportions. They come with functional cutters to make inserts and/or supporting bases which are perfectly combinable.ZEN moulds enable to make semifreddos, mousses and baked desserts (300 ml - ZEN300, 600 ml - ZEN600 and 1000 ml - ZEN1000) with perfectly delineated shapes, recalling the ones of pebbles smoothed by water.www.silikomart.com/professional


NEWS

ICAM CIOCCOLATIERI CELEBRATES ITS 70TH ANNIVERSARY AND PRESENTS AGOSTONI On the occasion of its anniversary, Icam Cioccolatieri presents Agostoni, a new brand dedicated to professionals, which takes its name from the founding family and celebrates 70 years of commitment in the pursuit of excellence. Agostoni celebrates the crowning excellence of cocoa and completes Icam Linea Professionale product range with a proposal of high premium chocolate. The Agostoni family has been cultivating its own culture of chocolate in Icam for 3 generations, and it has lead the company to be today the Italian reference producer for high quality cocoa processing. A challenging process that starts from the research of great single origin cocoa, with unique and fine flavour profiles, coming from carefully selected plantations, in territories where cocoa is historically an integrating part of culture, and completes itself by strictly applying modern and delicate production techniques. The particular attention in developing well balanced recipes enables the Company to offer a range of chocolates with an articulate and authentic taste profile and a technical performance specially developed for the most refined professionals.Agostoni holds a remarkable selection of premium products, as a result of the careful management of an integrated supply chain, and brings together a collection of special recipes. Grand Cru and single origin cocoa in the form of chocolate couvertures, cocoa paste and powder will allow chocolate-makers, confectioners and gelato makers to interpret cocoa according to their inspiration, to offer their customers a surprising taste experience.The 70 years experience is fully expressed in a wide range of Grand Cru Los Bejucos - Dominican Single Origin, the good quality of which has been recognized by the Minister of Industry and Commerce of the Dominican Republic with a Certificate of Designation of Origin. The region which historically is the origin of the well-k-nown “Hispaniola” cocoa, a territory with a unique fertility and microclimate, a natural scenery of rich variety of flora and fauna life that gives birth to a cocoa with large and elongated beans and an important presence of Criollo. The quality of the fermentation, which is homogeneous and complete, refines the flavour profile of this cocoa. The following two recipes, fine-tuned as regards their organoleptic perfor-mance, excellent fluidity, gloss and excellent crystallization, allow this cocoa to fully express its characteristics in chocolate, confectionery and gelato making. DARK CHOCOLATE GRAND CRU LOS BEJUCOS 70% has an intensive flavour profile, with a persistent cocoa taste, a balanced bitterness and delicate acidity, while MILK CHOCOLATE GRAND CRU LOS BEJUCOS 46% has a full taste of milk and cocoa, in which the sweetness and caramel taste are balanced by the delicate bitterness conveyed by the important presence of cocoa. A selection of cocoa paste is available in order to create unique combinations, experiment or personalize one's couvertures, gelatos or sherbets, giving them a persistent taste of aromatic cocoa. GRAND CRU LOS BEJUCOS COCOA MASS-100% cocoa is the most intense of the three proposals, with important but well balanced acidity and bitterness, and full and slightly fruity cocoa flavour. SINGLE ORIGIN UGANDA COCOA MASS - 100% cocoa is less bitter than Los Bejucos, and it expresses itself with a full and clean taste of cocoa.ARRIBA 3S - SINGLE ORIGIN ECUADOR COCOA MASS - 100% cocoa has the characteristic bitterness and cocoa taste, and is more aromatic and pleasant thanks to the presence of a floral note and controlled acidity.To complete its offer, Agostoni proposes a single origin cocoa powder, which gives the opportunity to taste different aromatic flavors also in the use of powders. COCOA 22-24 ARRIBA 3S - SINGLE ORIGIN ECUADOR, to characterize gelato products, spreads chocolate cream or hot chocolate with an intense flavour profile of enveloping cocoa notes.www.icamprofessionale.it

Food and hospitality trade show in Dubai The 2016 edition of Gulfood, the world’s largest annual food and hospitality trade show, will cement its standing as the wor-ld’s leading global food trading platform when more than 5,000 international companies from 120 countries gather at Dubai World Trade Centre (DWTC) from 21 to 25 February.Among the 85,000-plus visitors from more than 170 countries expected, Gulfood 2016 will host international heads of state, ministers, government officials and national trade associations from five continents. With event and year-round legacy trading expected to run into billions of dollars, Gulfood 2016 will connect nations and suppliers, open distribution channels for industry-related business, and highlight Dubai’s strategic role as a key global food industry trading hub.Having this year celebrated its landmark 20th outing, Gulfood 2016 is poised to deliver ‘More Tastes, More Trends and More Trade’ as the specialist event welcoming tens of thousands of finished food suppliers, bulk commodity wholesalers and exporters, and the show’s largest-ever collection of hospitality equipment suppliers.Led by the nation’s Ministry of Agriculture, Gulfood 2016 will also welcome its first Russian national pavilion – one of 114 national pavilions spanning in excess of 120,000m² of world-class, multi-functional indoor exhibition space and two purpose-built, temporary structures spanning a 10,900m² at DWTC. “Gulfood is internationally renowned for providing a trusted and accessible platform for the world’s food industry to meet, transact and trade out of Dubai – one of the world’s most diverse, energetic and vibrant trading hubs,” said Trixie LohMirmand, Senior Vice President, Exhibitions & Events Management, DWTC. Gulfood 2016 will also host the third Halal World Food, the world’s biggest annual Halal food sourcing trade event, and will shine a spotlight on coffee with the 9th World Cezve/Ibrik Championship, focusing on the traditional coffee-making methods popularly known as ‘Turkish coffee’, organised by the Speciality Coffee Association of Europe (SCAE).The show-floor culinary demonstrations will peak at the annual Emirates Culinary Guild International Salon Culinaire – a showcase of the region’s best culinary talent and expertise. This year’s Salon will see more than 1,300 professional chefs evaluated by a panel of 25 renowned experts, mandated by the World Association of Chefs Societies (WACS). The 7th Gulfood Awards will recognise best-in-class excellence of individuals and companies behind the region’s leadership and innovation in the food and drink industry. Judged by an international panel of independent industry experts, the Gulfood Awards cover six categories and 10 accolades. www.gulfood.com

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Documents

PASTICCERIA INTERNAZIONALE World Wide Edition 28-2016