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P A S T R Y B A K E R Y C O F F E E C U I S I N E

CHIRIOTTI 10064 PINEROLO - ITALIA - Tel. +390121393127 - Fax +390121794480www.piwwe.com - [email protected]

CHIRIOTTIEDITORI

MUSIC FOR MY RECIPES

GELATO FANTASY

CLAUDIA’S SENSE OF ICING

RETURNING TO THE SPLENDOURS OF THE PAST

COTTON CANDY ANDRASPBERRY RAVIOLI

NATURE’S HYMN

TARTUFATA MIA

HOW TO PROCESS“FROM BEAN TO BAR”

NEWS

Cop. PIWWE n 26_*Cop. PIWWE n. 9/2006 09/01/15 15:42 Pagina 1

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Livia ChiriottiSENIOR EDITOR

Emilia Coccolo ChiriottiNEWS EDITORS

Cristina QuagliaMilena NovarinoASSISTANT EDITOR

Chiara CombaTRANSLATIONS

Windsor - PineroloMARKETING EDITOR

Monica PagliardiADVERTISING DIRECTOR

Ottavio ChiriottiART DIRECTOR

Studio ImpaginaPRINTED BY

Tipografia Giuseppini

Pasticceria Internazionale World Wide Editionis happily published in Italy by Chiriotti Editori

Copyright © 2015 by Chiriotti Editori All rights reserved

No part of this magazine may be reproduced without prior written permission

from the publishing house

Supplement of “Pasticceria Internazionale” n. 270 - 2015

ON OUR COVERCiocconello by Andrea Tamagnini

Pasticceria Internazionale World Wide Edition 10064 Pinerolo (Torino)

Viale della Rimembranza 60 tel. +39 0121 393127 - fax +39 0121 794480

[email protected]

In this issueMusic for my recipes

Gelato fantasy

Claudia’s sense of icing

Returning to the splendours of the past

Cotton candy and raspberry ravioli

Nature’s Hymn

Tartufata mia

How to process “from bean to bar”

NewsA global gateway for food trade

Pastry line and new glitter tray

An exploration into the everyday life of a cocoa plantation

More colours than the rainbow

One machine, so many uses

Tartufino

Trittico Duo cooks pâte à choux

A creative revolution

The inimitable multi-purpose assistant

A new collection

A new sugar paste

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MUSICFOR MYRECIPES

“My pastry shop Pane e Cioccolato byStrabba (bread and chocolate by Strabba)is situated in the hamlet of Felina in Castle-nuovo Ne’ Monti, a small village with only afew inhabitants in the province of ReggioEmilia”, Andrea Tamagnini starts to tell us.“I love these places. I could have opened mybusiness in Bologna, where many morepeople would have passed in front of myshop window, but this is where I was bornand I don’t want to move away”.Strabba is Andrea’s stage name, since, aswell as being a confectioner, he is also amusician, a singer-songwriter and guitar pla-yer to be precise. The brand StrabbaDol-cieria was born from his passion for cakesand sweets. The product offering rangesfrom modern cakes to macarons, from cho-colates to artistic cakes, from spongata (atraditional Christmas cake made with a kindof shortcrust pastry, which is filled with appleand pear jam, candied fruits, pine seeds and

almonds, and then covered by a puff pastrylayer) and typical cakes from Emilia Roma-gna regional cuisine, to ceremony cakes forany occasion.In the shop there are a bread and bakedproduct counter, confectionery, café, cho-colaterie and wine shop areas, with a cornerfor select wines and grappa. Then, there isa tasting room which also hosts art exhibi-tions and events during the year. In the sum-mer, there is also an outdoor area withgazebo. When working full out, there arearound ten people and two apprentices em-ployed there.

How did you become a confectioner?My parents are not confectioners, they arefarmers and this has affected my approachto life, having taught me to believe in the cul-ture of work without looking to no-one ex-cept myself. Hard work and commitmentmixed together with a passion for beauty,

with the desire to improve constantly. I star-ted as an apprentice in a baker’s workshopat 16 and the following year I moved to aconfectioner’s workshop where I met chefPaolo Nardelli, my first teacher. After 10years, I was responsible for the workshop.7 years ago, I took over a baker’s-cafè of300 m2 and in a short time I transformed itinto a pastry shop and chocolaterie. How did you get into music?I share a passion for confectionery andmusic. I have always played music and Ihave been a professional musician for years.I have even played in front of Pope Wojtylain Toronto, which was broadcast worldwide!Recently, I have been doing shows in thea-tres where I play, cook and sing with a cul-tural association of which I am president, theBottega dell'Arte.How were you trained? At that time, there were no other professio-nals that I could confront myself with in the

Hard work and commitmentmixed together with a passion for beauty and the desire to improve constantly: this is Andrea Tamagnini, confectioner, singer-songwriterand guitar player, known as Strabba

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mountains, so I had to use my instinct. Mydesire to cook was my main driving forcewhich made up for the lack of contact withpeople from the sector. My mentor is the Ita-lian confectioner Cristian Beduschi. I also in-vest in courses each year with well knownprofessionals such as Stéphane Leroux,Emmanuele Forcone, Emanuele Saracino,Francesco Elmi... which allow me to gain ex-perience, What do the mountains mean to you?At a height of 1200 metres, your vision ofthe world changes, you can perceive a qua-lity of life that is different from living in thecity. If I had been born in Milan, maybe Iwouldn’t have made these sweets andcakes. The green of these fields, the deerand wild boar are my own dimension andthese have influenced my choices in life. Have you dedicated any of your sweetsto your family?Of course! I have very strong ties with myfamily. For example, the Ciocconello cake isdedicated to my father, since he adores darkchocolate and zabaglione. Then, there is theEdda cake, dedicated to my aunt, and thegrandmother Ida’s spongata, prepared follo-wing her recipe, which I learnt to make whenI was a child. Considering the area where you are, doyou work mainly at the weekends?Yes, the workload is more intense on publicholidays. There are a lot of people that cometo our mountains for a day out and they stopoff for breakfast, especially. We preparearound 500 a day, they mainly ask for cap-puccino and brioche. Naturally our cakesand specialities are inviting and these arebought to be taken home.How have you organised production?I have invested in the cold chain. We pro-duce every day and then we blast chill andstore, so that we are ready to satisfy any re-quest. We ship our cakes and sweets any-where.What is your strong point?I think it is in my hands and in my awarenessthat a cake can and must evoke emotions.We all need good moments and it is not onlythe cake that is good... it is the emotion ofliving a moment that we can remember inless positive situations, this is the role of agood cake that must be worth a good me-mory.

Milena Novarino



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Dark chocolate moussecreme anglaise g 300dark chocolate 70% g 450fresh cream g 500gelatine sheets g 2Pour the hot creme anglaise onto the broken chocolate. Add the gela-tine, which has been soaked and dissolved in cold water, and emulsify.Leave to cool to approx. 28°-30°C, then lighten with semi-whippedcream.

Zabaglione creamMarsala l 1egg yolks n 8sugar g 400starch g 50potato starch g 50Warm the Marsala, meanwhile mix egg yolks with sugar. Add the sievedpotato starch and starch and dissolve. Pour in the egg yolks, sugar, starchand dissolve. Put back on the heat and bring back to a boil.

Caramel icing sugar g 720glucose g 360butter g 90fresh cream g 950 gelatine g 15

Ciocconello

Caramel the sugar, add the previously boiled cream, glucose and butter,and add the softened and squeezed gelatine. Pass in the cutter and emul-sify for one minute at the most. Cool and use the following day at 35°C.

Classic chocolate biscuitegg whites g 360sugar g 220egg yolks g 200starch g 125flour g 65cocoa g 65Beat the egg whites with the sugar. Sift together the flour, starch andcocoa. Then fold in the lightly whisked yolks delicately with the beatenegg white and lastly add the powders. Bake at 220°C, damper closed.

Brittlealmond paste g 120corn flakes g 110white chocolate g 60

AssemblyPour the zabaglione cream into 18 cm diameter silicon moulds and blastchill. Prepare the chocolate mousse and pour into 20 cm diameter siliconmoulds, 3/4 full. Remove the zabaglione and place in the centre pressinglightly. Add more chocolate mousse and finish with the chocolate biscuit(18 cm diameter) layered with the corn flake brittle. Blast chill and thenice with the caramel icing at 29°C and decorate with Swiss meringueand small plaque of chocolate in the centre.


Mr Art. More than a machine,

it’s a laboratory of ideas.

With Mister Art you are free to create, from the

mix to the finished product, gelato cones, cups,

gelato pastry, cakes, treats, gelato on a stick, and

fresh pastry like mousse and creams.

Ask your dealer.

carpigiani.comIn only just 55 cm

PASTICCERIA WORLDWIDE EDITION 22X32.indd 1 23/12/14 11:25


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Pistachio dacquoise egg whites g 150sugar g 125grated coconut g 50icing sugar g 50pistachio flour g 50 Blend the grated coconut with the icing sugar and the pistachios untilthey are in powder form. Beat the egg whites with the sugar, add the mix-ture of coconut, sugar and pistachio, mixing from bottom to top using aspatula. Prepare some discs on baking paper using a pastry bag andbake at 180°C for 15 minutes.

Yoghurt moussecream g 1000yoghurt g 600edible gelatine g 0,25Italian meringue g 400Heat 200 g of yoghurt to 35°C, add the already softened, squeezed anddissolved gelatine. Add the remaining 400 g of yoghurt, the Italian me-ringue and then fold in the semi-whipped cream.

Raspberry crumbleflour g 500butter g 500icing sugar g 500

Coccinella

almond flour g 500raspberry pulp g 200red colouring powder g 4Mix all together in order, cool for 2 hours in the fridge and then arrangeusing a perforated ladle and place on a tray with baking paper. Bake at160°C for 20 minutes approx. Damper semi-open.

Fruit insertsfruit g 1.000gelatine g 20 sugar g 150Swiss meringue g 100 Blend the fruit, heat half of it and dissolve the already softened and squee-zed gelatine in it. Add the sugar, the rest of the fruit and the meringue. Ifmeringue is not used, add 200-250 g sugar.

Assembly Pour the yoghurt mousse into a silicon mould where points have beencreated using a fruit icing. Insert the fruit palet into the raspberry crum-ble, insert more yoghurt mousse and close with the pistachio dacquoise,then blast chill. Ice with sweet neutral gelatine when the cake is cold, anddecorate with somo fresh fruit or chocolate decorations.

Andrea Tamagnini - StrabbaCastelnuovo Ne’ Monti, Bo

https://www.facebook.com/andrea.strabba�photo Nikoboi


THE CONTEMPORARY VISIONOF CONFECTIONERY

ISBN: 978-88-96027-08-0

[email protected]

www.piwwe.com

More than 800 pages of technical knowledge: not only many recipes and technical informa-tion, but also the means to build one’s way of working and developing through basic notions,tests, emotions. All the fundamental themes are treated, from puff pastry to whipped mixtures, from chouxpastry to biscuits, from basic creams to meringues, from leavened dough to cakes, frompetits fours to praliné, from chocolate to pâte à bombe, from gelato to glazes, from souffléto nougat, from jam to nut brittle, from candying to fried products, from alternative pastryproducts to savoury baking…

A unique and complete approach to pastry art in all its wonderful nuances.

shop.chiriottieditori.it

PUBB TRADIZIONE IN EVOLUZIONE wwe.qxp_Layout 1 05/12/14 11:22 Pagina 1

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Pastry line and new glitter trayErremme Pastry Line is the result of a long history, made of ma-nufacturing know-how, quality and knowledge of the great Italian pastry tradition. Today it includes a wide range of functional and aesthetic containers, trays and single portions for pastry chefs and chocolatiers. All products are made of PS and/or PET, which are non-toxic and aseptic plastic materials, for maximum hygiene and moisture resistance. Among the leading products of the line, it’s worth mentioning the new Glitter Tray in two different diameters (9 cm and 12 cm), which is available in the classic gold color and in two innovative hues, i.e. with golden glitters and black with silver glitters for an elegant image. The trays are also equipped with practical transparent lids in two heights (5.5 and 7.5 cm for the 9 cm diameter tray and 6.5 cm and 8.5 cm for the 12 diameter tray) intende both for take-away and storage. www.erremmesrl.it

The 2015 edition of Gulfood, the world’s largest annual food and hospi-tality trade show, marks the 20th anniversary for one of the most important international platforms for the global food trade. Taking place from 8 to 12 February 2015 at Dubai World Trade Centre (DWTC), it is expected to at-tract more than 4,800 companies from 120 countries and more than 85,000 visitors from over 170 countries. It spans 127,000m² of exhibition space, including a 23,000m² purpose-built temporary structure.A unique trade and sourcing platform for finished food suppliers, bulk com-modity wholesalers and exporters across the spectrum of fresh, frozen, dry and processed food and beverage products, Gulfood 2015 also facilitates substantial global transactions for foodstuff commodities such as meat, cereals, grains, rice, coffee and tea. The exhibition hosts an increasing number of international heads of state, mi-nisters and government officials, as national trade associations ink lucrative bi-lateral trade agreements and debate food industry trends at industry-sha-ping conferences and summits scheduled during a series of conferences. Gulfood is also a major contributor to Dubai’s growing reputation as a global events destination and a key pillar of Dubai’s 2020 tourism vision.Thousands of food and beverage products and services are introduced every year and the Gulfood Awards celebrate both people and companies behind the region’s leadership and innovation in the food and drink indu-stry. Judged by an international panel of independent industry experts, the Awards will be divided in six categories and 10 awards. Taking place on the 10th of February 2015 at the five-star Conrad Hotel in Dubai, the Awards evening also plays host to a unique and memorable celebration of the show’s achievements over the past 20 editions and over 1,000 guests are expected to attend the anniversary event.One of Gulfood’s undisputed draws for the regions’ top professional chefs, pastry chefs, cooks and bakers every year is the annual Emirates Culinary Guild International Salon Culinaire – a showcase of the region’s best culi-nary talent and expertise. Held in Za’abeel Pavilion, this year’s Salon will see more than 1,300 professional chefs evaluated by a panel of 25 renowned experts, mandated by the World Association of Chefs Societies (WACS) to judge culinary events across the globe. www.gulfood.com

A GLOBAL GATEWAY FOR FOOD TRADE

A new way to decorateDesigned by a Master Pastry Chef for you, the Pastry Chefs

Discover the new line of Chocolate Decorations, created by Davide Comaschi and Modecor

See you at the Modecor Stand

January 17th 21stSector B3

QUALITYINNOVATION

SERVICE

Davide Comaschi Masterclass:Hands on courses to creating your own chocolate decorations (at Modecor headquarters) Te l 0 3 3 2 6 5 8 3 11

Denis Buosi


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GELATO FANTASY

For 6 peoplePreparation 15’ Freezing 20’ Difficulty medium

An elegant dish that presents raw fish in an unusual way. The hint of anise,conferred by the fennel, balances the sweetness of the lobster and thecombination of the two flavours is heightened by the acidity of the orange.The idea is also ‘translatable’ with other seafood such as prawns or cray-fish.

Fennel sorbet syrup base 50%* g 375 large fennel bulbs (375 g of juice is needed) n. 3

Denis Buosi, confectioner, chocolatier, gelato maker and Italian chef from Varese, and Gérard Taurin, gelato maker, chef and French trainer, present savoury versions of gelato

RAW LOBSTER AND ORANGE PAVÉ WITH FENNEL SORBET

Wash and chop the fennel (put the feathery leaves to one side) and putthem in the juicer, add the extracted juice to the syrup base and place themixture in the gelato maker. Freeze.

Lobster and orange pavé lobster g 300oranges g 200fennel n. 2extra virgin olive oil some chives freshly ground salt and pepper Remove the heads, shells and intestinal tract from the lobsters, then cutinto small pieces. Peel the oranges and remove the pith, separate the seg-ments and put at least twelve to one side for the decoration. Cut the re-maining oranges into small pieces and place in a bowl together with the

lobster. Season with salt, pepper, extravirgin olive oil and chives. Divide into fourequal portions, place each portion bet-ween two sheets of plastic wrap and beatlightly to create a thin and uniform layer.(A stainless steel square can help to givea regular shape to the mixture). Washand peel the fennel, cut in half lengthwiseand slice using a mandolin slicer.

Presentation Remove the top layer of plastic wrap andturn the mixture over onto a plate. Topwith some of the orange segments, verythin slices of raw fennel and a serving ofsorbet. Finish off with a few feathery fen-nel leaves.

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For 6 people Preparation 10’ Freezing 20’ Difficulty low

A creative solution for using very mature tomatoes, this variation of theclassic Caprese salad can be used in different ways: reducing the por-tions, it is a perfect finger food for an outdoor event in summer; in thedoses given it is a starter that arouses curiosity and livens up the con-versation. However, nothing stops you from tasting it as a light lunch, ide-ally, with your feet on the sand and your head in the clouds.

Tomato sorbet syrup base 50%* g 250Pachino tomatoes g 250water g 100dessert spoon of extra virgin olive oil n. 1pinch of salt

buffalo milk mozzarella g 50extra virgin olive oil fresh basil and pepper Pachino tomatoes n. 4-6 Parmigiano Reggiano pastry straws n. 4crystallised basil

Oil the basil leaves and salt slightly. Lay them out in a single layer on aplate which can go in a microwave oven and cook at full power for 2 mi-

TOMATO SORBET WITH BUFFALO MILK MOZZARELLA AND BASIL

nutes. Put to one side. Wash the tomatoes, remove stalks and place them in the juicer. Add thetomato juice to the syrup base, season with salt and extra virgin olive oil,mix well. Freeze. Drain the mozzarella and finely dice. Season with oil, salt, pepper and thebasil leaves cut into julienne strips. Using a dessert spoon, place one por-tion of seasoned mozzarella on the bottom of small jars or mason jars. Cover with a layer of tomato sorbet and decorate with fresh tomatoes,crystallised basil leaves and Parmigiano cheese pastry straws. Servestraightaway.

*Syrup base 50%water g 455sugar g 285glucose syrup g 180carob flour (optional) g 8Mix the sugar and syrup together with the water. If you decide to use thecarob flour, first, let it down with 100 g sugar. In a saucepan, bring themixture to a temperature of 85°C and leave to cook for approx. 2 minu-tes to allow the sugar to dissolve completely. Cool the syrup rapidly by im-mersing the saucepan in a bowl containing water and ice. The syrup canbe kept in a closed bottle in the fridge for 3-4 days.

Denis Buosi “Gelato, sorbetti e dolci ghiacciati”

Bibliotheca Culinariaphoto Francesca Moscheniwww.bibliothecaculinaria.it



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Gérard TaurinUse number 1 or 2 oysters, depending on the season: the total quantitycan vary from two to three dozens.

drained oysters g 500liquid cream g 300powdered milk g 100egg yolks g 50honey g 150oyster water g 500fish gelatine g 4total g 1604

OYSTER GELATO ON A BED OF SEAWEED

A CHAT WITH DENIS BUOSI

How do you “interpret” gelato today?

We have always planned production around the quality of the raw materials and this has allowed us to

become known for the goodness of our products. Today, we pursue this policy more than ever, even

in this period of crisis which we are living in.

How do you develop new flavours and ideas?

Luckily, I am not lacking in ideas. I always try to diversify production, depending on the outside tem-

perature, for example, varying the type of fruit and even making unusual combinations, as in the case

of gelato made with savoury products.

How do you propose gastronomic gelato?

We have thought up an innovative formula of aperitif with gelato, to be offered on themed evenings.

Therefore, you can find tomato sorbet with buffalo milk mozzarella and basil, sesame gelato with tuna

tartare, fennel sorbet with lobster, bruschetta with tomatoes and olive oil sorbet…. and many more,

which can be served at an aperitif, as a summer starter or in alternative to a classic canapé. Some of

these examples appear in my recently published book, completely dedicated to gelato recipes, as do

the ones on these pages (“Gelato, sorbetti e dolci ghiacciati” - Bibliotheca Culinaria - pag. 66 - €13.90 - language: Italian).

What are the taste preferences that you have identified in your gelato parlour? Are classic fla-

vours still popular?

Since we are well known for our chocolate, of course, this is the most popular flavour, together with

Buosino®, which is a must, of our own invention based on milk, cream, coffee and chocolate. Apart

from these, fruit flavours, granitas and ice lollies are highly appreciated.

C.Q.photo Francesca Moscheni and Buosi

www.buosi.it

Denis’s book also contains recipes for cakes, such as, for example, the one for almond cupcakes filled with gelato and gelato filled macarons.

Blanch all the ingredients. Mix and season with salt and pepper. Cool themixture in ice and freeze. As soon as the gelato is ready, pipe onto thecooled shells using a piping bag with a Saint Honoré nozzle and place inthe freezer. Prepare the serving tray with slivers of dried seaweed, seasalt and thin sheets of lemon. Place the oysters on top and complete withwakame seaweed. Serve with white wine.

The oysters from Brittany and Normandy are classified according to theirdimensions, on a scale that goes from 1 (the biggest) to 4 (the smallest).


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SQUASH POTIMARRON SOUP WITH GELATO AND VITELOTTE POTATO CHIPS

Recipe for 10 people

Squash Potimarron soup squash Potimarron g 250carrots g 100medium sized potatoes n. 3small tomatoes n. 2large onion n. 1a handful of parsleygarlic clove n. 1ginger, nutmeg, paprikaCut all the vegetables into large cubes and finely chop the parsley and garlic. In a saucepan,put the ingredients in the following order, leaving approx. 2 minutes between adding eachone, onion, carrots, squash, potatoes, garlic and tomatoes. Then cover with warm water.When the vegetables are cooked, mix in the parsley, spices, salt and pepper.

Caramelised Squash Potimarronbrown sugar g 200nutmeg g 2cinnamon g 5toasted nuts g 20Steam a few segments of squash, roll in a warm mix of sugar/nuts/cinnamon/nutmeg, and ca-ramelise on a grill or in very hot frying pan.

Squash Potimarron gelato whole milk g 750liquid cream g 400powdered milk g 100sugar g 100dextrose g 35honey g 100squash puree g 1,000total g 2,485

Gérard Taurin places the squash gelato balls onto theviolet potato chips.



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Confit tomatoes with spices medium-sized ripe tomatoes n. 6

Syrup with spiceswater g 1000dextrose g 500sugar g 200Bring the water, sugar and dextrose to the boil. Add 2 flowers of staranise, one vanilla bean, 3 cinammon sticks, 3 cloves. Plunge the emptiedout tomatoes into the boiling water, keeping the tops, then remove fromheat and leave to cool for 24 hours covered with plastic wrap.

Fresh basil sorbetpowdered milk g 30sugar g 360powdered glucose g 200

CONFIT TOMATOES WITH SPICES AND BASIL SORBET

Put all the ingredients together and blanch.Cool in ice and freeze.

PresentationAs soon as the gelato is ready, place someballs onto Vitelotte potato chips (the varietywith voilet skin and pulp originating fromPerù) and put to one side. Pour the boilingsoup into the specific dishes, add a goodspoonful of cream, sprinkle with parsleyand place the caramelised squash seg-ments and gelato on the potato chip allaround.

water g 800basil g 40fresh lemon juice g 600Cook the syrup without lemon and basil, cool and pour a little of the lemonjuice into the thermomix with the basil leaves. Mix at high speed and in-troduce the other ingredients. Freeze and prepare small balls of sorbet.

PresentationDrain the confit tomatoes and cool quickly in a blast chiller. Prepare theplates with a base of crushed strawberries in order to get a coulis. Placea ball of basil sorbet inside each tomato and cover with the tomato tops.Place each one on a plate, place another serving of sorbet on the straw-berry coulis, a basil leaf, a few pieces of strawberry and, lastly, dampenwith the liquid the tomatoes were cooked in.

Gérard Taurinwww.gerard-taurin.com



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CLAUDIA’SSENSE

OF ICING

A Greek fret made with skill and elegance,doing justice to classic Italian decoration, usinga horn and royal icing. This is the first thing thatimpressed us about Claudia Prati, without yetknowing her. Then getting to know her, we di-scovered a shared passion for this decorative te-chnique and for its completely Italian history thattoday, “dazzled” by the boom of cake design, is alltoo often forgotten, leaving most people convin-ced that it is “an Anglo-Saxon thing”.

From this real common passion, it was spontaneous to create a pro-ject pampered in every detail and in the various stages of preparation.“Manuale della ghiaccia reale” (€ 39,00 - Italian - shop.chiriottie-ditori.it) narrates royal icing in a complete way, looking into its past indepth and offering the reader all the necessary elements to be ableto try it out, from A to Z, addressing the beginner as well as the affir-med professional. The concept of “giving back dignity” is apt in thiscase; in a world in which the appearance of a sweet has become evenmore important than its flavour, this technique instils elegance and isprelude to the joy of the palate, since starting from here it is assumedthat beauty and goodness are inseparable.This is not only a book that explains the techniques, but it is also aneven more useful tool in order to understand the subject better, be-cause royal icing is fascinating for its aesthetic potential as well as forits long history and is able to cross nations and personalities. A pastthat is worth recreating through meticulous research: an objectivemade possible also thanks to the library and newspaper library of the“Pasticceria Internazionale” Study Centre which, among historic andcontemporary volumes, magazines and a well-stocked data base (notforgetting the museum of equipment, prints, documents…), offer il-luminating texts and bibliographic inspiration, feeding our and our au-thors’ passion for research.

Claudia Prati, a teacher passionate about royal icing,came across us at Chiriotti Editori and following this

chance meeting, a manual came into being. The book has the aim of giving back the deserved and

enhanced dignity to a valuable decorative technique,between history, method and creativity

Claudia Prati with one of her decorated cakes, which canbe found in her book.

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“I realised that icing came easy to me, as amanual skill and as aesthetic expression”,recalls Claudia. So, after attending courseafter course, and consulting professionaltexts everywhere, it is natural that sheshould teach the subject herself: “The ap-proach to icing is a serious matter, full of sa-crifice, of practice, but it seemed too seriousto me. It was necessary to teach it in a man-ner in which it would be experienced in asimpler way, without asking too much, wi-thout the need to be the ‘Michelangelo’ ofroyal icing. Of course, it takes hard work toreach certain levels, but I do not want to fri-ghten people off or dash hopes, since evenI continue to make a lot of mistakes, any-way my teaching approach helps people”.She joins to many other enthusiasts from allover the world, at the forefront EddieSpence, who say: “Let’s make sure icingdoes not die out!”. Inevitably, since, at the moment in Italy, thispractice does not have the same amount ofenthusiasts as a few decades ago, its refe-rence points are above all Anglo-Saxon spe-cialists. This explains why the terms that sheuses are often in English. However, Claudiaalso admires Italian great confectionery de-corators, such as Guido Bellissima, AchilleBrena, Ferruccio Grassi, Graziano Giovan-nini and many others that she has come toknow through the pages of “Pasticceria In-ternazionale”.Claudia, where do you start when lear-ning the techniques?At least, for the first time, by watching so-meone doing it, contemplating the consi-stency of the icing. Many people arefrightened of how the mixture is prepared,stored and used. Once you have understoodthe basics, an important step has beenmade. In the beginning there is no need toknow a lot of techniques, but rather the con-sistency and the nozzles to use dependingon this. From here on, it is only a question ofpractice, practice and more practice.And from a chromatic point of view?As a general rule, with icing it is necessaryto have a talent in harmonizing with colours,so as not to choose shades that are toovivid, preferring subdued colours. It also de-pends a lot on the style of the cake. I haveseen very colourful and wonderful cakes,however in those cases the artist managedto find colour combinations that were incomplete harmony, something that is not soeasy to manage. Therefore, it is much easierto use pastel tones in the beginning. I re-commend working on a colourful base usingwhite icing rather than working on a whitecake using different coloured icing….

Among the numerous techniques pre-sent in the book, which you prefer?With pressure piping it is possible to createtwo-dimensional forms in relief. Getting thehang of this technique you can make anytype of animal, flower and profile of a per-son. The basic technique is very simple, as arethe basic instruments: sugar, egg white,lemon, greaseproof paper for making thebag. At the beginning it isn’t even necessaryto use nozzles.It seems a paradox, but using icing is thequickest way to decorate after years of prac-tice. Modelling takes longer. Then, it is ob-vious that, improving your knowledge of thevarious techniques, everything becomesmore complex, as with extension works, forexample, which require a lot of time.Then you recommend a personal ap-proach first and then, a didactic appro-ach?

Icing should be first experimented “solo”, ofcourse, after buying my book! Then, conti-nue by attending courses, without pauses.Therefore, it would be better not to do thefirst courses uninitiated, so as not to lose thedetails and to understand your own mista-kes better, even only at the level of the po-sition of your hands.Which modern application can you fo-resee for icing?Many, because it only needs beautiful wri-ting to ennoble a festive cake. Then, justthink of the potentiality of the common bi-scuit decorated with icing, ideal also for im-pulse buying. A little larger than normal, asa single portion, already wrapped in clearcellophane and placed next to the cash re-gister, it can arouse curiosity, especially ifwell decorated with the most common firstnames or various subjects depending on theseason and holidays. A perfect present, aswell as a tasty snack.

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More colours than the rainbowIt is designed for the much appreciated macarons the new Macadò, an innovative box by Silikomart Professional intended to preserve the uniqueness and fragrance of these pastry specilties. It is a resi-stant and functional plastic box, available for 6 or for 12 macarons. It is composed of a transparent cover and a tray available in 8 colours: black, fuchsia, green, white, brown, dark green, red and transparent. The cover can be closed hermetically with a stable joint, to protected from humidity. Furthermore, thanks to its transparency, the products inside are clearly visible.It is stackable both in the bottom and in t he cover, in order to meet the need of space optimization in laboratories as well as in shop win-dows. The bottom is endowed with a structure that separates every single macaron, so that they do not get damaged when displayed or carried.The container is designed according to a modular size, that allows to display exactly 10 boxes for 12 macarons and 20 boxes for 6 maca-rons on 60x40 cm trays.The bright colours of the innovative packaging stand out in shop win-dows, and can be customized with stickers, ribbons or other decorati-ve elements used in pastry shops. professional.silikomart.com

One machine, so many usesStaff Ice System, the company located in Rimini which has been in the cold equipment’s market since 1959, introduces Line R: one machine with lots of applications. The high quality of its components and its versatility make the multi-function Line R a useful tool for pastry chefs. All the 8 models are meant to grant the maximum of the performances with the highest reliability in all the recipes that require a temperature control, i.e. heating, cooling and mixing. The multi-functionality allows to produce custard cream, candied orange peels, bran pie, torrone, fondant sugar, chocolate melting, ganaches, jellies, jams and much more. They represent a suitable solution in the world of handcraft food prepara-tions. They express “authenticity and craftsmanship” and maintain the organoleptic features of ingredients, as the pasteurization cycle uses lower temperatures compared to traditional boiling. The integration between basic electronics and the inverter allows to create any kind of mix.Moreover, Staff Ice System is going to launch a new machine intended to transform the way you work. Designed with a special care for women’s needs, it is characterized by revolutionary design features that the company will reveal in the coming months… www.staff1959.com

AN EXPLORATION INTO THE EVERYDAY LIFE OF A COCOA PLANTATIONFor the last 40 years of working with cocoa farmers, Icam has produced much more than cocoa. “We have been able to build a re-lationship based on honesty, respect and trust – they say –. We have shared our commitment to the research and development of higher quality cocoa, providing secure income for farmers and improving the standard of living of the people with whom we work. These are the ingredients that allow us to talk about sustainability and from which fine chocolate couvertures were born”. Grand Cru, Los Palmaritos and Los Vasquez derive from cocoa beans from a single plantation. The Dark Chocolate Cru Pachiza of Peruvian origin has a characteristic cocoa profile; the Milk Chocolate Single Origin from Peru has an intense and refined flavour, stimulating taste through a wide range of aromas. The new Single Origin Ugan-da is the result of a direct participation in the plantation, expressing a dominant chocolate flavour and a characteristic intense cocoa aroma. Moreover, the range includes other chocolates such as Ecuador, Madagascar and São Tomé.The stories of the sustainable production chain are online, www.icam-professionale.it/videoFurther information about Icam Linea Professionale products are on www.icamprofessionale.it/products


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The Ristorante Del Cambio has returnedto its antique glory. Splendour, taste and ele-gance, transposed in a modern interpreta-tion, recall the eras, in which, not only thepeople who built Italy sat at its tables, butalso famous and distinguished diners of thecaliber of Giacomo Casanova, WolfgangAmadeus Mozart, Friedrich Nietzsche or, inmore recent times, Maria Callas and AudreyHepburn. So, what has been one of Turin’slandmarks since 1757 has decided to startwriting its history again thanks to a presti-gious business project led by Michele De-negri. A year of work has allowed the areasto be restored in such a way that does notbetray their soul even though there are newfeatures such as the Bar Cavour, on thefirst floor, a cocktail bar open until late, andthe redevelopment of the restaurant areas,where international artists such as ArturoHerrera, Michelangelo Pistoletto and IzharPatkin have intervened.However, the biggest change is in the kit-chen and carries the signature of MatteoBaronetto. A key person in this relaunch,Baronetto returns to one of the places of hisdebut. He worked in the kitchens of piazza

Carignano during on-the-job training whenstill at school. Years have passed since thenand the young chef, born in Giaveno, in theprovince of Turin, has gained valuable expe-rience that has taken him to Gualtiero Mar-chesi at Albereta in Erbusco, Bs, and to thekitchens of Carlo Cracco, first in Piobesid’Alba, near Cuneo, and then in Milan.Baronetto is starting again from his Turin,accepting the challenge that walks arm inarm with history and modernity. His cuisineis a “reasoned improvisation”, he admits, abalancing exercise between intuition andconsideration, inspiration and talent in itsexecution. The kitchen brigade is composedof 14 people and with them Baronetto un-derlines the importance of that guidingthought, of that intellectual and practical di-scipline capable of directing the work of allthe group. He goes on to say that his is acuisine “which does not exist”, is difficult todefine, and which at the Cambio descendsfrom the respect of the place, from its hi-story and the taste of customers of yester-day and today. Respect and listening are,therefore, the key words, but without beingin awe, because the Ristorante Del Cambio

deserves vitality and the risk to change. Ba-ronetto says, “my ambition is to create, alsoin the kitchen, something that will last for along time”. Hence the restaurant offer goesfrom the Menù gastronomique à la carte tothe Tasting Menu, to the light lunch, to theDéjeuner à la fourchette and to the “easy”menu (but always with taste) of the Bar Ca-vour. Occupying a place of honor in a menu has tobe the dessert, and creativity comes to lightalso in the sweets, which at the Cambio in-tend to be a discreet and light presence,which is ideal at the end of a meal. With Ba-ronetto is Nicola Dovnik (together in thephoto) who follows the preparation of thedesserts. A young chef who lends himselfto confectionary and who has worked withhim since the times of Cracco, as is also truefor his right hand man Diego Giglio, whohas been at his side for thirteen years. Amust to savour is the Bonèt, one of the ty-pical sweets of Piedmontese tradition, ableto reflect not only the roots of the chef fromTurin but also his amazing ability to reinter-pret the most authentic symbols of the past.This is the new soul of Del Cambio and it is

Respect and listening: these are the key words around which a “reasoned improvisation” unravels in the kitchen of chef Matteo Baronetto,

who manages the renewed Ristorante Del Cambio, in Turin, assisted by by the young Nicola Dovnik in the preparation of the sweets

RETURNING TO THESPLENDOURS

OF THE PAST

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felt with each course. The Bonèt, a puddingmade with amaretti biscuits and cocoa, halfof which is wrapped in a crunchy chocolatecrust, cocoa beans and a pinch of salt is ser-ved with a coffee sauce. “My philosophy,”explains Baronetto, “is to propose again so-mething which already exists, trying to im-prove it in a contemporary and creative way,

without modifying the essence but adaptingit to the times in which we live”. Another ex-traordinary example of the “Baronetto wayof thinking” is Rice spaghetti, vin brulèand spices. Prepared with rice flour “inorder to give importance to handmadepasta,” he explains, “they are a return to thevin brulè of a bygone era and are prepared

with cooked wine and gelato with spices.“The ingredients are cornerstones of thePiedmontese spirit and our offer here at theCambio is exactly that of translating ancientrecipes for modern palates, experimenting,blending and seducing,” he concludes.

Text and photos by Sarah Scaparone

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A ravioli mold and a cotton machine – chef Martin Lippo uses conventional tools and equipment ina creative way thus obtaining astonishing results

Ingredientssugarfreeze-dried raspberrieslimes

Method1 Wash and pat dry the limes.2 Grate the skin with a microplane grater for citrus.3 Dehydrate the lime zest at 35ºC until totally dry.4 Warm up the cotton candy machine.5 Pour the sugar in the center of the cotton machine.6 Collect the cotton candy very carefully and place it over a ravioli mold.photo 17 Place some freeze-dried raspberries and the dehydrated lime skin in

the center of the mold photos 2-3 , close it, and remove the excess cot-ton candy8 Open the mold and carefully unmold the ravioli. photos 4-59 Serve immediately.

NotesWorking with cotton sugar could be impossible under high humidity con-ditions.A very low temperature during the lime zest dehydrating process is es-sential to prevent the aroma from volatilizing.

Martin LippoBarcellona, Spagna

COTTON CANDY ANDRASPBERRY RAVIOLI

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More colours than the rainbow stronger than a rock.

Now your precious macarons can be safely stored.

MADE IN ITALY

REGISTERED DESIGNprofessional.silikomart.com

+39 041 5190550

BESTPRICE

Elegant • Versatile • 8 Classic and trendy colours • HermeticCustomizable lid • Stackable • For 6 or 12 macarons • Modular


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Martin Lippo

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Via Statale,151 - 12069 Santa Vittoria d’Alba (CN)Tel. +39.0172.479273/75 (r.a.) - Fax +39.0172.477814

[email protected]

www.selmi-group.it

New version with Screwpump removable®

www.

sgsm

.it

futura ex

Tank capacity: 35 kg.Hourly production: 170 kg.

Power consumption: 2.5 kW – three phase, 5 poles.

Tank capacity 35 kg.Hourly production 170 kg.

Power consumption 2.5 kW - three phase, 5 polesCooling system 2200 frigorie/h

Dimensions

h. 1550 mm., w. 500 mm., d. 1000 mm.(w. 1740 mm. with. R200)

Accessories Coating machine R200Injection plateAutomatic truffle

selmi futura ex_wwe_gennaio_2014.indd 1 19/12/13 18.00


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It is dedicated to all those who love the be-auty, the elegance and the style of thisnew window-dressing scheme carried outby Se, the brand created by Elena Ca-rano and Rosalba Zanoni, young floraldesigners from Pinerolo in collaborationwith Cioccolato Puro, the shop dedica-ted to chocolate, also located in Pinerolo,Turin, Italy. The centre piece is the composition whichmakes a beautiful display inside an elegantblack box. Not just a simple bouquet of flo-wers, but a well thought out combinationof roses and little white roses, vegetables(broccoli spears), medicinal herbs like la-vender and fruits of the forest, such asblueberries. To make the composition uni-que, the pralines, inserted into long twigs,become imaginative and inviting decorativeelements. Next to the main bouquet, thelong rectangular box is filled with pralineson which three bars of chocolate are pla-ced. To enhance the lid of the box there isa small bouquet made up of turmeric flo-wers, tiny white roses, blackcurrants, blue-berries, cinnamon sticks and green slenderfronds. All of this is accompanied by deli-cious chocolates inserted into the twigs, sothat they look almost like a lollipop. Thewhole thing is then finished off on a gol-den tray, on which small chocolates andsugared petals lay. www.sefiori.itwww.cioccolato-puro.com

photos Remo Caffaro

Roses, broccolispears, lavender,blueberries…andpralines for acomposition thatcelebrates natureand the joys ofchocolateN

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TARTUFATA sweet truffle cake


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Light rum syrup30°Baumé syrup g 56water g 29distilled rum 40% vol. g 15Mix the ingredients together and keep.

Butter sponge cakeeggs g 200yolks g 160granulated sugar g 277vanilla pod n. 1/2plain flour (for biscuits) g 150potato starch g 150baking powder g 3butter g 60Heat the eggs, sugar and vanilla to 50°C. Whip and then slowly add theyolks. Fold in the sifted dry ingredients and the warm melted butter whichhas been emulsified with some of the eggs. Distribute in cake rings untila thickness of about 6 mm and bake at 200°C for 10 minutes. Spray withthe rum syrup when it comes out of the oven and cool quickly.

Soft amaretto with hazelnutsegg white g 259granulated sugar g 103almond flour g 309icing sugar g 257cocoa powder 10/12 g 41plain flour (for biscuits) g 31chopped Piedmont hazelnuts g 40Whip the egg white with the granulated sugar, which has been added slo-wly and fold in the sifted dry ingredients using a spatula. Make discs of 6mm in height and of a smaller diameter than the cake, sprinkle the chop-ped hazelnuts and icing sugar on top. Bake at 170°C for approx. 20 mi-nutes, chill at a positive temperature.

Crema tartufata sweet truffle creammilk g 940sugar g 250

egg yolks g 200starch g 80cacao paste g 120Piedmont hazelnut paste g 60butter g 200Prepare a confectioner’s custard, add both the cacao and hazelnut paste,emulsify carefully, cool and whip with the butter. Use straightaway.

Chocolate ganache milk g 350glucose syrup g 79Regina milk chocolate Icam Linea Professionale g 511gelatin g 10water g 50Bring the milk to the boil with the glucose, add the chocolate and hydra-ted gelatine, emulsify and keep at 4°C for 12 hours.

Assembly and presentationAssemble using stainless steel rings placed upside down on acetate she-ets following this order: a first layer of sweet truffle cream, 5 mm in thick-ness, place the sponge on top and press, a second layer of cream,sponge, a third layer of cream, finish with the cocoa amaretto and press,chill to a negative temperature and keep.Turn over and remove the ring, keep at a low temperature. Melt the cho-colate ganache at 29°C and spread over the cake, level the icing andcomplete with a strip of dark chocolate, chocolate decoration, toasted ha-zelnuts and a sprinkle of cocoa.

NoteThe union of the Piedmont hazelnut (a unique product due to its sensoryproperties) and cocoa create a sweet truffle cream that is structured, full-flavoured but well-balanced. The flavours and the aromas are enhanced,strengthened and yet proportioned with the sponge, which adds a hint ofrum, amaretto with cocoa and hazelnuts.A rational production method and a tasty content are thought up to mo-dernize a classic proposal in its structure and content, duly recalling all thehistorical heritage of sponge filled “all’italiana” (in the Italian way).

Riccardo Magnifor www.icamprofessionale.it

photo Riccardo Marcialis

TARTUFATA MIA my sweet truffle

The distinctive feature of this cake is that it wants to update a historic specialitywith a strong personality in its flavour, by giving it a new look with a cream thatcombines hazelnut and cocoa and a trace of alcohol which is usually very dominant.Therefore there are two aspects, the sensory one, where a balance is maintained betweenthe biscuit and the creamy part (also with the introduction of soft amaretto in favour of the former), the second will be per-ceived as not so sweet and rich. From purely a productive and commercial point of view I opt for assembly using a cakering, which gives good stability and keeping, with a simple and modern design. Spraying the syrup onto the sponge discsafter baking will give softness to the product with a balanced perception of rum.

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TARTUFINOTartufino is the new product by Bigatton, a thin semi-circular wafer coated with chocolate and crushed nuts, a crispy and fast solu-tion for bonbons to be filled with ganache, gelato, semifreddo and creams. Its versatility allows to create both crispy balls with soft “hearts” and also filled basket.The Bigatton Tartufino is also ideal for filling cups and cones. It is available in four flavours: chocolate-covered, chocolate-covered with shredded coconut, chocolate-covered with crushed amarettos, chocolate-covered with chopped hazelnuts. It is packaged in boxes of 576 pieces/8 boxes per carton.www.tartufino.it

Trittico Duo cooks pâte à chouxThe series Trittico Duo by Bravo widens its family of optionals with a kit designed to obtain a perfect pâte à choux. It’s a high-technology extra equi-pment easy to be used: a special flange adds wheatmeal directly into the lower tank at the right time and mixes it to get a flawless product. The kit is completed with a software pâte à choux program-me, thanks to which the production is performed through pre-set and automatic processes, both on the cold and on the hot part. The advantage of such optionals is the possibility to choose extra equipment according to one’s needs. In this case, it is possible to buy the arrangement contextually with the machine and to add the complete kit afterwards.In January Bravo presents the technology of Trittico Duodu-ring Sigep, and also organizes shows every day, involving famous professionals such as Iginio Massari, Diego Cro-sara, Danilo Freguja, Davide Comaschi (Chocolate World Champion), Angelo Grasso, Pino Scaringella, Beppo Tonon, and many others. Moreover, Bravo reconfirms the partnership with Coupe du Monde de la Pâtisserie 2015 at the Sirha in Lyon, where Trittico technology and K24 Evo tempering machine are the protagonists in each team’s box.http://configurator.bravo.it https://www.facebook.com/BRAVOSPA/events

A CREATIVE REVOLUTIONIdeaTre by Carpigiani is intended to turn around the retail food world, rein-venting shop architecture and processes, and perfectly encapsulating pro-duction, storage, and presentation of gelato specialties. Professionals can express their creativity making gelato right in front of customers, involving them with exclusive recipes and production aromas, and with fresh fruit and spreadable chocolate and hazelnut creams as complements to high-quality production. With IdeaTre it is also possible to make sorbets, slushes, mous-ses, pastry creams, jams, poached fruit, sauces and savory creams. The machine has a com-pact, linear design, with four vertical cylinders dropped into a work counter, and can be installed in multiples (8, 12, 16, 24…) according to production plans. Each cylin-

der can be heated to 105°C (221°F) and then dropped in only a few minutes to -15°C (5°F). Each four-cylinder module can produce 10-130 kg/h in just one linear meter of space. The advantage is that artisans can finally dedicate the proper attention to customers, and invite them to taste the wide range of sweet and savory flavors of gelato, pastry and creative cuisine.www.carpigiani.com

I C A M L I N E A P R O F E S S I O N A L E . Y O U R I N S P I R A T I O N , O U R P A S S I O N .

HOW TO PROCESS“FROM BEAN TO BAR”


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The person that produces or sells chocolateis called a cioccolataio or cioccolatiere, thesetwo words are synonyms according to theItalian dictionary Lessico Universale Trec-cani. A term does not exist in the Italian lan-guage to distinguish a person that produceschocolate starting from the beans (thereforefrom the origin), a person that starts fromthe mass, the semi finished product, or whosimply sells chocolate made by others. Theterm cioccolataio, much used in the 1800s,indicated a person who prepared drinkingchocolate. It is in this period that the saying“fare la figura del cioccolataio” becameknown to indicate someone who made abad impression (the story goes that the sa-ying originated because of a cioccolataiowho behaved arrogantly towards a king) andso the profession itself opted to use the termcioccolatiere. In France the profession ofchocolatier is distinguished from that of ca-caotier, the latter producing chocolate star-ting from processing the beans. In Italy, not

having this distinction we have to coin a newword, because “who produces chocolatestarting from the cocoa bean”, explainsGuido Castagna, “can decide the flavour,therefore, influence the final product, whostarts with the mass can only add sugar”. How can you decide the flavour?By choosing the raw material, the level oftoasting, checking the production chain. Webuy from certified cooperatives, I am spea-king of a direct relationship with the cultiva-tors. We choose the type of bean and lookfor perfumes and scents. The beans aremore expensive, but in this way you are surethat the money all goes to the cultivatorsand, most of all, you almost have full controlof the production chain and you know thatfrom the rare Criollo or Trinitario beans, it ispossible to produce chocolate for connois-seurs.Can the beans have different characte-ristics every harvest? Of course. To understand better we can

compare the harvest of the cocoa pods tothat of harvesting grapes, which are influen-ced by the climate, the earth, humidity... thewine that is produced varies from year toyear, there are vintage years where greatwines are produced and these are bottledand left to age to obtain excellence. Fabri-cator of all this is the oenologist. For cocoait is the same, its creator is the cacaotier.The certified cooperatives guarantee the firstphases of processing from the harvest to thefermentation, to the drying, right up to thepackaging in sacks ready for exportation.So is it more expensive to produce cho-colate starting from the beans? Yes, the costs are higher. We buy the beansin autumn (the important harvests are twicea year), and we pay for them straightawayas opposed to a semi finished product whichis paid for after 90 days. When the sacksarrive, we dry the beans. In total betweenimpurities, foreign bodies, humidity andshells, there is a weight loss of 25%. Then

We asked Guido Castagna, chocolate maker in Giaveno www.guidocastagna.it to explain the process from cocoa bean to a bar of chocolate, a process which he follows in every detail

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www.martellato.com

The new Easter line of silicone moulds for tridimensional subjects

Ask for catalogue to see

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production starts: toasting, breaking of thecocoa beans, removing the shells, pre-refi-ning, refining, conching for 48 hours. Fur-thermore before being sold, our chocolate isleft to mature for 6 months in a climatizedenvironment, an indispensible period whichserves to give a correct stability to the pro-duct and a balance of taste. All of thesephases are necessary to transform it fromimmature to pleasant. Time, as with wine,influences the scent in a significant way.Who toasts beans also toasts hazel-nuts?Definitely, hazelnuts are needed to producegianduiotti and the gianduia flavour, these,unlike beans, are processed immediatelyafter the harvest. The hazelnut is at its bestwhen it is fresh and not mature.What is the price of the beans? One of the best markets for cocoa is Liffe inLondon. The International Cocoa Organiza-tion (ICCO) sets a daily reference indicatorwhich is calculated as an average of somefuture exchanges both in London and inNew York. The price of the future is expres-sed in English pounds per ton. The tradingunit, that is the minimum quantity negotia-ble, is 10 tons. Generally speaking, cocoais traded at €2 per kg, but the rare typesCriollo (2% of the world production), Trinita-rio (18%) are not quoted and are sold at €6-12.To sum up, what difficulties are en-countered when working beans? Availability of the raw material, contactingand visiting the cooperative to check the firstphases of preparation: separating the seedsfrom the mucilage, fermenting and drying.Furthermore we have to be able to make ouractivity known, our work. Today, any choco-latier can claim to start from the bean, frombean to bar, even if this is not so. Can you distinguish industrially produ-ced chocolate from handmade choco-late?Yes, in order to appreciate our quality thepalate which is often used to a flat tasteneeds to be educated, because often the in-dustry treats chocolate with potassiumwhich removes the acidity, eliminating theunpleasant part and with this also the fla-vour. With this procedure it is not possible toallow the product to mature, but it is sold

straightaway. Going back to the example ofwine, if the palate is used to tasting a normalwine, it needs to linger, to smell the perfu-mes and taste the flavours in order to ap-preciate a vintage wine. What are the advantages of processingthe beans?Being in contact with a fantastic world. Thecharm of this fruit that wins you over, admi-ring the fact that a liquid can come from adry seed, living in a state of uncertainty be-cause you do not know which flavour you willmanage to develop. Undoubtedly whenbuying we know what we are getting de-pending on the type of cocoa we choose,for example the Madagascar is sour but witha very fruity note, while the Arriba Equadoris more aromatic. There is commercial sati-

sfaction when you see that your efforts toobtain the best are appreciated.Is your chocolate the result of a blend? Our production is mainly pure, but we alsooffer blends. Also because it is nice to ex-periment. We have bars of chocolate withdifferent flavours that range from basics, flo-ral to more sour flavours which are orangeand red fruits, mandarin and lime.From an economic point of view, do youhave many competitors?The multinational companies get very lowprices at the origin, therefore they can offerprices that are unthinkable for us. Proces-sing the hazelnuts allows us to have a bet-ter mark up. Buying the paste is moreconvenient, but you do not know how it hasbeen prepared and what is in it, instead byalso choosing the hazelnuts we have controlover all the raw materials.How do you state “made in Italy” in yourproducts?Everything that we use, apart from thebeans, of course, is made in Italy. The pac-kaging, the pure cellulose paper, but aboveall the goodness of the product “speaks” Ita-lian. Like the great Italian wines that haveasserted themselves all over the world, alsochocolate aspires to do the same. We aremoving slowly, the difficulty is in the fact thatthere needs to be more profit, at the mo-ment the culture of a “great” chocolate doesnot exist, but it will come. We are goingahead, little by little, with our idea of a top ofthe range product!

Milena Novarino

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A NEW SUGAR PASTE The cake design trend has been gathering more and more, and bakers now compete to turn their cakes and sweets into creative works of art. Fabbri 1905 has thus created a revolutionary powder product to prepare white chocola-te-flavoured sugar paste in an easy and practical manner. Some lukewarm water (27/30°C) has to be added to the powder and sugar paste is ready in just a few minutes. Suitable to cover cakes, the product can also be used as simple modelling paste, by adding less water (as described on the packaging). It reduces waste, because the paste can be prepared only when needed and in the necessary amount. It also offers the great advantage of making it easier to obtain the de-sired colour: no more kneading to mix the colour in, as it can be added to the water before mixing with the product. Moreover, Fabbri’s sugar paste is gluten free and does not contain trans fats. www.fabbri1905.com

THE INIMITABLE MULTI-PURPOSE ASSISTANTMultiFresh®, the Irinox blast chiller that combines chilling functions (cooling, freezing, thawing, chocolate) and warming ones (low temperature cooking, regeneration, pasteurization, proofing, holding) in a single appliance, is now easier to use, thanks to MyA. MyA offers many opportunities: guided by intuitive icons, you can create a list of favourite cycles or record the ideal cycle by making ad hoc adjustments to the production process. You can find answers to all doubts about the new interface with a complete on-line guide, or choose the continuous cycle to freeze or chill for more than 8 hours without interruption.Using MultiFresh® you can chill or freeze with cycles dedicated to pastry, bakery, gelato and bread making. You can do safe, controlled thawing without stressing products; proof at constant temperature and humidity, in order to develop the structure and obtain crisp crumbly pastry products; cook meringue or pochè fruits at low temperature, going on automatically to chilling or freezing. And you can regenerate cooked products just in time for serving or hold at the required temperature.The operating principle of a blast chiller consists of extracting heat from products in the quickest way possible. The performance offered by Multi-Fresh® is the result of balanced main refrigerator components: the Irinox Balance System®, – condenser, evaporator, compressor and ventilators –extract heat from food as rapidly as possible, even from boiling hot items.Painstaking care with technical and production details is part of the know-how that has allowed Irinox to incorporate numerous patents in this machine: MultiRack®, an adjustable tray rack that doubles tray capacity on every model; Multisensor®, a 5-point probe for food temperature con-trol, which comes with a patented system for automatically engaging with the door; Sanigen®, a chamber sanification system that eliminates the bacterial charge in the air as well as unpleasant odours. In addition, data logging is now wireless for downloading and saving the data for all work processes on dedicated software (HACCP Control Software). www.irinoxprofessional.com

A new collectionSheeps, bunnies and chicks, hearts, boxes, parchments, grooms and brides and ladybugs… here are some of the moulds of the new Martellato collection called Sili-con Idea. After the great success of the first items, the range is enriched by several new models for Valentine’s Day, Carnival, Easter and special events.The line of moulds, made of durable foodsafe silico-ne, helps in creating 3D chocolate items fast and ea-sily. Martellato products, entirely made in Italy. www.martellato.com

PatamixTHE PATE A CHOUX MACHINE

Come to discover it at:

BRAVO SUPPORTS RETINOSTOPASSOCIATION IN THE RESEARCH

AGAINST “RETINOBLASTOMA”

news

For a perfect Pâte à Choux.After macaroons, the new trendy products of global pastry making - such as éclairs - require a perfect pâte à choux. This is why one of their gurus, Cristophe Adam, has set out to devise, together with Bravo, a technological solution for pastry chefs to be always one step ahead!

sPonsor oF

PASTRY EVENTS //bravospa

soCIAL

BRAVO S.P.A. vicenza, Italy

Tel. 0039.0444.707.700bravo.it - bravofrance.fr - bravo.asia - bravonorthamerica.com

SIGEP RImInI17-21 jAn.C5 / 040

SIRhA lyon24-28 jAn.4F129

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For 12 jars

Carrot cake extra virgin olive oil g 60sugar g 100peeled carrots g 100peeled sweet almonds g 100whole eggs (n. 2) g 100flour 00 g 100baking powder for cakes g 4Strega liqueur g 12Grate the carrots and then place them in a chef mixer, together with all theingredients. Beat for approx. 1 minute, until the mixture is smooth andsilky. Divide it into 12 jars which have already been greased, up to a heightof 1,5 cm. Place the open jars in the oven at 165°C for 12 minutes. Checkif it is cooked using a skewer and then leave to cool at room temperature.

Buffalo yogurt moussebuffalo yogurt g 600sugared semi-whipped cream g 480egg yolks (n. 8) g 160sugar g 200water g 100gelatine sheets g 12Pour the water into a pan, add the sugar and heat to 121°C. Drizzle thissolution onto the egg yolks which have been placed in a mixing bowl andwhip with an electric mixer until they have quadrupled in quantity. To oneside, in another bowl, semi-whip the cream with the sugar and then addthe yogurt. Incorporate the warm ge-latine, already melted over avery low flame afterbeing left to soak

in cold water, to this latter mixture. Emulsify using an electric whisk and de-licately add the whipped egg yolks, using a spatula. Pour the buffalo yo-gurt mousse into each jar, on top of the carrot cake, and place in thefreezer for 30 minutes.

Orange gelatinorange juice g 200sugar g 120pectin g 6 large pieces of orange rind g 20Costa d’Amalfi lemons n. 1gelatine g 8Mix the sugar with the pectin and add the juice and the rind cut into ju-lienne. Boil for 3 minutes and add lemon juice. Leave to cool and thenpour a thin layer into the refrigerated jars.

Lavender flower semi candied carrots small baby carrots n. 24sugar g 200water g 200dried lavender flowers g 2Stew the carrots in water with the sugar and lavender flowers for 10 mi-nutes. After approx. 12 hours, boil again for 1 minute and keep in fridge.To complete the dessert, decorate each jar with the lavender flower, semicandied carrots with. Serve at +4°C.

Salvatore De RisoTramonti, Italy

www.salderiso.it

2015- www.piwwe.com - n. 2640

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the inimitable

Organize your production and processes with flexibility 24 hours a day.

multi-functional assistant becomes

www.irinoxprofessional.com

MyA is the new touch screen interface for MultiFresh® multi-function blast chillers that makes using the machine even easier and more intuitive. The icons guide you through the numerous functions with a wide choice of cycles designed to preserve the fragrance, flavour and aroma of each item. Full customization is possible only with MyA: it’s easy to vary the parameters for each cycle and create the ideal process for every product.

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PASTICCERIA INTERNAZIONALE World Wide Edition 26-2015