QUE RICO!Grand Velas Riviera Nayarit's fine dining venues include Italian-themed Lucca, and Piaf, for French-Mediterranean fare and cooking classes with easy-to-follow recipe takeaways. Frida's, however, is the standout. Walls are adorned with recipes from Frida Kahlo's personal kitchen, while the restaurants Nuevo Latino dishes taste as good as they look. At Azul's breakfast buffet, huitlacoche (corn truffles) or squash blossom quesadillas, along with serene ocean views, are made to order. www.velasresorts.com

...SOMETHING TO WASH IT ALL DOWNWhile the poolside bar serves up familiar fruity margaritas, local flavours such as cucumber-jalapeno and tamarindo are also available. Serious cocktail aficionados will

find premium tequilas and artisanal cocktails at the Lobby Bar, Piaf, Fridas and Lucca after dark. Grand Velas also offers tequila tasting and mixology classes that pour on tasty tidbits about tequila traditions and recipes that will enlighten even experienced aficionados.

IF YOU'RE GOING TO SAN FRANCISCOExploring the resorts neighbour communities is a must. Some spots in the delightful village of San Pancho (also known as San Francisco) represent what's right about the region's expat influx. Hotel Cielo Rojos Bistro Organico is a tropical oasis known for earthy vegan and omnivore dishes, as well as traditional green remedy juices and baked goods. The grilled nopales (cactus) enchiladas are worth the wait. Entre Amigos, an ambitious community centre,

blends a childrens library, recycling program, artisanal workshop and circus school developed by Cirque de Soleil co-founder Gilles Ste-Croix.www.hotelcielorojo.comwww.entreamigos.org.mx

SAYULITA'S HIPSTER WAVENeighbouring town Sayulita is more international than Mexican, with trendy restaurants and boutiques, but you can't go wrong with a chilled cerveza and a Mexican pizza overlooking the sea. However, if you're seeking street food, explore away from the beach to find places like Pedritos and Natys Cocina. You can also ask a local expat whos been there a while. Leyla, Chicago-bred manager of Debbie de la Cueva jewellery boutique, was eager to share her favourite ultra-affordable eateries outside the zona turistica.www.delacuevajewelry.com

THE AWARD-WINNING Grand Velas Riviera Nayarit resort a few miles from Puerto Vallarta is a gateway to the cultural and culinary gems of the coastline skirting the states of Jalisco and Nayarit.

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Sayurita, beach town

Washing it down at the Lobby Bar

BREAKFAST WITH BOULAYAt night, the sleek bistro, Chez Boulay,

decorated with displays of towering

twigs, features Nordic cuisine from

the local boreal forest onion soup

cappuccino, bison cheeks with praline

and sea-buckthorn crme brle

for dessert. But dont overlook the

bountiful spread, worthy of Valhalla,

that they present for breakfast. www.chezboulay.com

LUNCH WITH SAMBistro le Sam in the renovated Chteau Frontenac is named after

Samuel de Champlain who started

it all. Should you tire of the dazzling

view of the St Lawrence not

likely watch the chefs in the open

kitchen as they whip up elegant

versions of salmon trout tartare or

le Hamburger du Chteau. The 1608

Bar next door provides a treasury of Quebec charcuterie and cheeses

to accompany wines of the world. www.fairmont.com/frontenac-quebec

BEYOND THE GATESVenture along St Jean Street to the tiny le Billig. Savour sparkling cider and an authentic Breton ham and cheese buckwheat crepe, while sitting on an old church bench. At rico Chocolate Museum and Shop learn the history of this Mayan treat, and admire the chocolate sculptures: a merry-go-round and a working clock. Dont forget to sample the wares. Le Billig, 526 Rue St-Jean

rico Chocolate Museum and Shopwww.ericochocolatier.com

POP-UP LOBSTERIts hard to beat munching fries with truffle mayonnaise or a lobster guedille (roll) with avocado, while sitting on a terrace with Montmorenci Falls glinting in the distance. Panache-

Mobile, nestled beside the Ste-Petronille vineyard on le dOrlans, is the charming country cousin of the notable Panache Restaurant at LAuberge Sainte-Antoine.www.sainte-antoine.com

KID CUISINETry the Chic Shack, just down the street from the Chteau, with caleches clopping by. There are burgers of all sorts, milkshakes, Sweet and Sour Kitchen Sink Cookies. Festive balloon lights and Provencal Pizza add to the jolly atmosphere at les Frres de la Cte. Then wander along for the bakery bliss of dessert at Le Paillard, with its magnificent pastries and great tubs of purple and orange gelato. They also offer soup, sandwiches and salad in a casual setting. www.chicshack.cawww.lesfreresdelacoteqc.comwww.paillard.ca

YOU CAN WORK UP a raging appetite as you walk up and down hills and along the cobbled streets in Quebec City. Fortunately, there are restaurants of all sorts to soothe the hunger pangs.

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PLACE: QUEBEC CITY, CANADA WEATHER: STRAWBERRY TIME!TRAVELLER: MARY ALICE DOWNIE

STEVE BRO

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Samuel de Champlain, Quebec City

COTTON ONTO THISJames Boyce, Alabamas 2012 restaurateur of the year, serves such delectables as Apalachicola oyster corn fritters and smoked Muscovy duck at Cotton Row, located in an old cotton exchange, and comfort food (buttermilk-fried chicken with Dijon collard greens, Gulf shrimp with grits) at nearby Commerce Kitchen. www.cottonrowrestaurant.comwww.thecommercekitchen.com

BBQ HEAVENBarbecue is a religion here, but which church is best sparks holy wars smoky or sweet? Dry-rubbed or saucy? We like hole-in-the-wall Granvilles Gourmet Ribs & Barbecue, whose fall-off-the-bone ribs, smoky brisket and

baked potato salad are heavenly.www.granvillesbbq.com

SHOP TIL YOU DROPFifty farmers hawk fresh produce at the municipal farmers market, which dates to 1814. Fromagerie Belle Chvre took top honours from the American Cheese Society for its Tuscan-inspired goat cheese. Mason Dixon Bakerys gluten-free buttermilk biscuits and chocolate torte are musts. And Harrison Brothers Hardware peddles artisan foods and cookware in century-old surroundings. www.bellechevre.comwww.masondixonbakery.comwww.harrisonbrothershardware.com

SWEET COMFORTLowe Mill, a former textile factory, is home to a hundred artisans, crafting everything from cigar-box guitars

to copper jewellery. Refresh yourself with Pizzelles truffles, hand made by two sisters with Venezuelan chocolate and local ingredients like honey and chicory, or artisan tea from Piper and Leaf. Blends include Monks Meditation, Ceylon black tea with pomegranate, vanilla and catnip.www.lowemill.netwww.pizzellesconfections.comwww.piperandleaf.com

DAMN STRAIGHT ITS BEERStraight To Ale brews terrific craft beer. Its flagships: a light milk stout with chocolate-coffee flavours, and Monkeynaut IPA celebrating Americas first monkey in space. Theyre on drinks menus everywhere, but tour the brewery and sip at the source. www.straightoale.com

HUNTSVILLE gave birth to Americas space program and its US Space and Rocket Center is Alabamas top tourist attraction. The city also offers a vibrant arts scene, history, and a botanical garden housing the nations biggest open-air butterfly house.

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AND SUNNY

TRAVELLER: PETE

R JOHANSEN

Harrison Brothers

Shrimp and Grits, Cotton Row

SAINTLY SLICESThroughout our European travels, including stops in Italy, my Croatian friend insisted that San Marino in Stari Grad makes the best pizza in the world. After visiting the restaurant and trying the pikant,

its hard to disagree. This pizza features ham, salami, sweet pepper and mushrooms. Find San Marino on a street called Petra Hektorovia, on your right as you walk down Riva with the harbour on your left.

BAKERY-FRESH BUREKThe contents of burek, a savoury pastry, vary depending on where you are in Central or Eastern Europe. The burek at Kraljica Mira has spicy minced meat sandwiched between layers of crisp, buttery phyllo-like dough. This pekara also makes vegetarian burek with feta cheese.

COOL CREATIONSIce cream in Europe is a feast for the eyes. Whether its a simple stand or a classy caf, vendors of the smooth sweet display each flavour like a piece of art. The rich cream is piled high in its tub, so it looks like a colourful

cloud bursting forth to tempt your taste buds. At ice cream shops like Jagoda, youll find an array of flavours for significantly less per scoop than in the rest of Europe, reducing the stress of having to choose just one.

KREM OF THE CROPA more traditional Croatian dessert krempita is a vanilla custard cake that is the perfect accompaniment to a cup of strong coffee on the Stari Grad harbour.

BEADS, FEEDS AND TOURIST NEEDSAs you continue down Riva, the street curves around the harbour towards the hillside. At the bend, you will notice stalls selling everything from jewellery to locally grown lavender. Add garlic and olive oil to your catch-of-the-day for the perfect seafood dinner, along with fresh, palm-sized figs for dessert.

FORMERLY PART OF YUGOSLAVIA, Croatia has become a summertime paradise for visitors from fellow EU countries and beyond. In the small town of Stari Grad on the island of Hvar, theres no need for addresses. A stroll down the main street, Riva, reveals cuisine still influenced by local ingredients and tradition, rather than imports and new trends.

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Stari Grad

Burek

CORA

LLE FERREIRA