THE GLOBALGU IDE TOTRAD IT IONS ,TECHN IQUESAND DES IGN

KNITTING ONTOPOF THEWORLD

NickyEpsteinOne of today’s most popular and belovedknitting designers and authors,NickyEpstein has gained internationalrecognition for her innovative work,whimsical and high-fashion sense of style,and informative workshops. She hasauthored many bestselling books, includingNicky Epstein:The Essential EdgingsCollection, an anthology of her threepopular edgings titles,Knitting on the Edge,Over the Edge and Beyond the Edge; NickyEpstein Knitted Flowers; Nicky Epstein’sSignature Scarves; and two patterncollections for 18-inch dolls,Nicky EpsteinKnits for Dolls and Nicky Epstein Crochetfor Dolls. Her unique designs haveappeared in Vogue Knitting ® and manyother publications, as well as on televisionand in museums.Nicky lives in NewYorkCity and travels extensively aroundthe world teaching and lecturing on theart and craft that she loves.

Nicky Epstein

THE GLOBAL GUIDE TO TRADIT IONS ,TECHNIQUES AND DES IGNJoin Nicky Epstein on a world tour of knitting traditions andtechniques, with more than 50 fabulous new designs.Nicky details theorigin and use of classic knitting techniques—Fair Isle, appliqué,Aranand more—in folk-knitting traditions from around the globe, thenreinvigorates and recombines these techniques in her own inimitableway to create all-new, innovative designs and traditions.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY ROSE CALLAHAN

� Windswept Isles� Far North� OldWorld Europe� Around theMediterranean

� Far East� NewWorld 9 7 8 1 9 3 6 0 9 6 7 5 6

5 1 9 9 5

ISBN: 978-1-936096-75-6

$19.95 US • $21.95 CAN

C R A F T S • K N I T T I N G

KNITTING ONTOPOF THE WORLD

Nicky Epstein

vBooks

Nicky

An imprint of Sixth&Spring Books

Epstein

PR INTED IN CH INA

Nicky Epstein presents in this book a collectionof new patterns unprecedented for a majordesigner in its size and scope:more than50 gorgeous designs, drawing inspiration fromknitting traditions around the world whilestaying true to her signature style. Knit aroundthe world with Nicky and enjoy a designer’s viewof knitting history, culture and techniques.Inside you’ll find:

LIVELY, INFORMATIVE HISTORIES coveringmajor knitting regions, including the ShetlandIslands, Ireland, the Baltics, Germany, SouthAmerica and more

ILLUSTRATIONSAND EXPLANATIONSof traditional techniques, such as intarsia,Bohus and entrelac

FULL-COLOR PHOTOGRAPHYAND CHARTSincluded with the pattern instructions

U.S. $19.95 • CANADA $21.95

KNITTING ONTOPOF THEWORLDTHE GLOBAL GUIDE TO TRADIT IONS ,

TECHNIQUES AND DES IGN

vBooks

Nicky

An imprint of Sixth&Spring Books

Epstein

Nicky Epstein

vBooks

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vBooks

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An imprint of Sixth&Spring Books

Epstein

{T H E G L O B A L G U I D E TO T R A D I T I O N S , T E C H N I Q U E S A N D D E S I G N

Knitting On Top of theWorldN I C K Y E P S T E I N

vBooks

Nicky

Copyright © 2008 by Nicky EpsteinAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may bereproduced or used in any form or by any means—graphic,electronic, or mechanical, including photocopying,recording, or information storage-and-retrieval systems—without written permission of the publisher.

The written instructions, photographs, designs, projectsand patterns are intended for the personal, noncommercialuse of the retail purchaser and are under federal copyrightlaws; they are not to be reproduced in any form for commercial use. Permission is granted to photocopy pat-terns for the personal use of the retail purchaser. Resourceinformation is current at time of publication. We are notresponsible for any human or typographical errors.

Paperback ISBN: 978-1-936096-75-6Hardcover ISBN: 978-1-933027-67-8

Manufactured in China

13579108642First Paperback Edition

An imprint of Sixth&Spring Books 161 Avenue of the Americas, New York, NY 10013

Editorial DirectorJOY AQUILINO

Developmental EditorLISA SILVERMAN

Art DirectorDIANE LAMPHRON

Associate Art DirectorSHEENA T. PAUL

Supervising Instructions EditorsCARLA SCOTTLORI STEINBERG

Editorial AssistantJOHANNA LEVY

Yarn EditorTANIS GRAY

Research EditorDARYL BROWER

Instructions EditorsLISA BUCCELLATOJEANNIE CHINPEGGY GREIGNANCY HENDERSONJENN JARVISEVE NGWENDY PRESTON

Technical IllustrationsJEANNIE CHINJANE FAY

CopyeditorKRISTINA SIGLER

Bookings ManagerRACHAEL STEIN

Still PhotographyMARCUS TULLIS

StylistJULIE HINES

Hair and MakeupINGEBORG KAIJZERELENA LYAKIR

■ ■ ■

Vice PresidentTRISHA MALCOLM

PublisherCARRIE KILMER

Production ManagerDAVID JOINNIDES

PresidentART JOINNIDES

ChairmanJAY STEIN

Epstein

vCover and principal photography by Rose Callahan

■ to all knitters past, present and future

Nicky World Knit_1-5_revise.qxp:Layout 1 4/3/14 2:46 PM Page 4

C O N T E N T S

Introduction 6Designing With Nicky 7

Far NorthHistory and Techniques 8–15

■ Design ProjectsICELAND: Northern Lights Cardigan 16

DENMARK: Copenhagen Royal Shawl 20LATVIA: Princess Bride Mittens 24RUSSIA: St. Petersburg Camisole 28ESTONIA: Baltic Cuffs and Cap 32SWEDEN: Bohus Swing Coat 34SCANDINAVIA: Snowflake Sweater Cape 38NORWAY: Liten Olaf Sweater 42

Windswept IslesHistory and Techniques 44–51

■ Design Projects

ISLE OF ARAN: Evening Gala Aran 52ENGLAND: Londonderry Rose Coat 56SCOTLAND: Sanquhar Bonny Socks 60FAIR ISLE: Simply Smashing Cardigan 64 GUERNSEY: Cowl Collar Jumper 68SCOTLAND: Hunter’s Argyle Socks 72 SCOTLAND: Highland Fling Plaid Jacket 74IRELAND: Celtic Hooded Coat 78FAIR ISLE: Faux Fair Isle Fairy Socks 82SHETLAND ISLANDS: Edwardian Lace Coat 86GREAT BRITAIN: World Class Wee Sweaters 92FAIR ISLE: Fair Isle Tam Capelet 102IRELAND: Galway Bay Shrug Shawl 106

Old World History and Techniques 110–115

■ Design Projects

ITALY: Roman Holiday Shrug 116FRANCE: Parisian Entrelac Wrap 120 BAVARIA: Black Forest Mitts 124FRANCE: La Belle Cardigan 128 AUSTRIA: Austrian Alps Zip Jacket 132GERMANY: Oktoberfest Glove Cuffs 136AUSTRIA: Tyrolean Leg Warmers 140ITALY: Florentine Shrug 142

Around the Mediterranean History and Techniques 146–151

■ Design ProjectsSPAIN: Spanish Rose Trellis Scarf 152 SYRIA: Damascus Dream Dress 156 SPAIN: Señorita’s Floral Pullover 160 TURKEY: Ottoman Empire Jacket 164 SPAIN: El Matador Jacket 170 PORTUGAL: Lisbon Lace Jacket 174 EGYPT: Isis Tunic 178GREECE: Greco Mosaic Bags 182

Far East History and Techniques 184–187

■ Design ProjectsCHINA: Shanghai Garden Scarf 188 JAPAN: Shibori Blossom Bag 192 JAPAN: Fuji Feather Lace Wrap 194 MONGOLIA: Mongolian Warrior Pullover 196JAPAN: Hai-Riyo 200

New World History and Techniques 204–209

■ Design ProjectsPERU: Andes Tunic Vest 210MEXICO: Fiesta Skirt 214CANADA: Cowichan Vision Wrap Coat 218U.S.A.: Great Bear Zip Tunic 222BOLIVIA: La Paz Scarf & Cap 226U.S.A.: Great Plains Blanket Bag 230

Abbreviations, Glossary, Skill Levels 234 Techniques A to Z 235 Yarn and Notions Resources 246Bibliography 246Index 247

Londonderry Rose Coatpage 56

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8

FARNORTH

S c a n d i n a v i a

I c e l a n d

L a t v i a

R u s s i a

E s t o n i a

■ N O R T H E R N W I N D S , I C E A N D S N O W , A N D W A R M A N D W O N D E R F U L K N I T S

F A R N O R T H I c e l a n d

Northern Lights CardiganT h i s I c e l a n d i c - s t y l e c a r d i g a n , y o k e d a n d c r o p p e d ,

w i t h i t s s p a r k l i n g b e a d s a n d s h i m m e r i n g

c o l o r s , r e f l e c t s t h e s p i r i t o f t h e A u r o r a B o r e a l i s .

■ S K I L L E D K N I T T E R

W H A T Y O U ’ L L N E E D■ 9 (10, 12) 1/3⁄4oz/50g balls (ea. approx 92yds/85m) of Berroco Inc.’s Pure Merino (100% extrafine merino wool) in #8516 ensign blue (MC)■ 2 (3, 3) balls in #8534 black magic(D)■ 1 ball ea. in #8519 lavender (A), #8549 fuschia (B) and #8550 grape jelly (C)■ Sizes 7 (4.5mm) and 8 (5mm) 16" and 32" circular needles ■ Sizes 7 (4.5mm) and 8 (5mm) double-pointed needles■ 70 (81, 90) 7mm faceted beads (purchase extra in case of breakage or loss)■ Tapestry needle■ Five 1"/2.5cm buttons■ Scrap yarn for stitch holders ■ Fur collar optional

SizesSmall (Medium, Large)

Finished MeasurementsBust (closed): 37 (413⁄4, 47)"/94 (106, 118)cmLength: 181⁄2 (20, 211⁄4)"/45.5 (51, 54)cm

Gauge20 sts and 25 rows = 4"/10cm in Ridged rib on larger needles TAKE TIME TO CHECK GAUGE.

Special stitches■ Ridged rib for Body:Row 1 (RS) Knit.Row 2 Knit.Row 3 P1, *k1, p1; rep from * to end.Row 4 K1, *p1, k1; rep from * to end.Rep rows 1-4.

■ Ridged rib for Sleeves (knitted in the round):Row 1 Knit.Row 2 Purl.Row 3 P1, *k1, p1; rep from * to end.Row 4 K1, *k1, p1; rep from * to end.Rep rows 1-4.

Body■ With MC and smaller needles, cast on 177 (201, 227) sts. Work in St st for 7 rows beg with a p row. Next row (RS) Purl for turning ridge.Change to larger needle and beg with row 2, work in Ridged rib for 10 (11, 12)"/25.5(28, 30.5)cm, ending with row 4.

Divide fronts and back■ Next row (RS) K37 (43, 49) right front sts, bind off 14 sts, k75 (87, 101) back sts, bind off 14 sts, k37 (43, 49) left front sts. Place on scrap yarn or stitch holder.

Sleeves■ With MC and smaller dpns, cast on 51 (55, 59) sts. Pm and join for knitting in the rnd. K 7 rnds, p 1 rnd.Change to larger dpns and work in Ridged rib as foll:Inc rnd K1, m1, work in Ridged rib to 1 st before marker, m1, k1.Rep inc rnd every 8th rnd twice more–57 (61, 65) sts. Work even in pat until piece measures 14"/35.5cm from turning ridge, ending with row 4. Set-up rnd K to last 7 sts, bind off 14 sts–43 (47, 51) sts. Place on scrap yarn or stitch holder and work 2nd sleeve as for first.

Yoke■ Joining row (WS) P37 (43, 49) sts of left front, p43 (47, 51) sts of sleeve, p75 (87,101) sts of back, p43 (47, 51) sts of sleeve, p37 (43, 49) sts of right front–235 (267, 301) sts. Working 4 (4, 6) rows in St st with MC, dec 4 (0, 4) sts evenly across first row–231 (267, 297) sts.

16

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W I N D S W E P T I S L E S S c o t l a n d

Highland Fling Plaid JacketI f y o u h e a r t h e l i l t i n g s o u n d s o f a b a g p i p e w h e n

y o u ’ r e k n i t t i n g t h i s m o d e r n p l a i d j a c k e t , y o u ’ l l

k n o w y o u ’ r e o n t h e r i g h t t r a c k .

■ S K I L L E D K N I T T E R

W H A T Y O U ’ L L N E E D■ 7 1.48oz/42g balls (ea. approx 90yds/82m) of Classic Elite Yarns La Gran (76.5% mohair/17.5% wool/6% nylon) in #6516 natural (A)■ 4 balls #61538 mocha (B)■ 3 balls ea. of #6575 pebble (C) and #6555 infa red (F)■ 2 balls ea. #6545 barley (D) and #63520 winter sky (E)■ Size 9 (5.5mm) needles OR SIZE TO OBTAIN GAUGE■ Size 9 (5.5mm) double-pointed needles (2 dpns)■ Stitch holders (or waste yarn)■ Stitch markers■ Tapestry needle■ 2 Large hooks and eye in matching color

SizesS (M, L)

Finished MeasurementsBust (closed): 40 (481⁄2, 57)"/101.5 (123, 145)cmLength: 271⁄2 (28, 281⁄2)"/70 (71, 72.5)cm

Gauge15 sts and 22 rows = 4"/10cm in St st. TAKE TIME TO CHECK GAUGE.NOTE: vertical lines can be knit in or worked in duplicate st (see page 238) after the piece is knit.

Back ■ With B, cast on 75 (91, 107) sts. K 4 rows.Change to St st and work 9 rows of Chart 1 for border, beg and end as noted on chart.Cont in St st, work rows 1-58 of Chart 2 once, rows 17-58 once, then rows 17-38 oncemore, AT THE SAME TIME, when back measures 181⁄2"/47cm from beg, pm at each endof row for armholes. With A only, work even until back measures 271⁄2 (28, 281⁄2)"/70 (71, 72.5)cm from beg. Place sts on holder.

Right front■ With B, cast on 39 (49, 59) sts. K 4 rows.Change to St st and work same as back, dec 1 st at front edge every 10th (8th, 8th)

row 12 (14, 16) times as foll: Dec row (RS) K1, ssk, k to end, AT SAME TIME, pm atside edge when front measures 181⁄2"/46cm from beg. Cont even on 27 (35, 43) sts until front is same length as back. Place sts on holder.

Left front■ Work same as right front, working dec at front edge as foll:Dec row (RS) K to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.

Sleeves (make 2)■ With C, cast on 60 sts. K 3 rows. Change to St st and work rows 39-58 of Chart 2 once, then rows 17-58 twice (or to desired length), AT THE SAME TIME, inc 1 st each side every 10th row 4 (6, 8)times–68 (72, 76) sts. Bind off.

CollarRIGHT SIDE■ With A, cast on 29 sts. Work charts same as back, AT THE SAME TIME, dec 1 st at front edge every 10th row 10 times as foll:Dec row (RS) K1, k2tog, k to end.Cont even on 19 sts in stripe pat rep until collar measures 31 (311⁄2, 32)”/78.5 (80,81.5)cm from beg. Place sts on holder.

74

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O L D W O R L D I t a l y

Roman Holiday ShrugF i t f o r a p r i n c e s s , t h i s e m b e l l i s h e d s h r u g i s t h e

p e r f e c t t o p p e r f o r y o u r f a v o r i t e d r e s s — b e l l i s s i m a !

■ S K I L L E D K N I T T E R

W H A T Y O U ’ L L N E E D■ 5 (6) 31⁄2oz/100g skeins (each approx 110yds/99m) of Reynolds/JCA Andean Alpaca Regal (90% alpaca/10% wool) in #6 off white■ Size 10 (6mm) needles OR SIZE TO OBTAIN GAUGE■ Cable needle■ Tapestry needle

SizesS/M (L/XL)Finished back length: 9 (111⁄4)"/23 (28.5)cmCuff to cuff measurement: 30 (32)"/76 (81)cm

Gauge16 sts and 22 rows = 4"/10cm in St st. TAKE TIME TO CHECK GAUGE.

Pattern Glossary SMOCKING PATTERN (multiple of 16 sts + 12)■ Rows 1, 3, 5 and 7 (RS) K3, p6, *[k2, p2] twice, k2, p6; rep from *, end k3.Rows 2, 4, 6 and 8 P3, *k6, [p2, k2] twice, p2; rep from *, end k6, p3.Row 9 K3, p2, k2, p2, *slip next 10 sts to cn and wind yarn 3 times around these sts,[k2, p6, k2] from cn, p2, k2, p2; rep from *, end k3.Row 10 P3, *[k2, p2] twice, k6, p2; rep from *, end k2, p2, k2, p3.

Rows 11, 13, 15, and 17 K3, p2, k2, *p2, k2, p6, k2, p2, k2; rep from *, end p2, k3.Rows 12, 14, 16 and 18 P3, k2, *p2, k2, p2, k6, p2, k2; rep from *, end p2, k2, p3.Row 19 K1, *slip next 10 sts to cn and wind yarn 3 times around these sts, [k2, p6, k2] from cn, p2, k2, p2; rep from *, end slip next 10 sts to cn and wind yarn 3 times around these sts, [k2, p6, k2] from cn, k1.Row 20 P3, k6, p2, *[k2, p2] twice, k6, p2; rep from *, end p1.Rep rows 1–20.

HOLSTER PATTERN (multiple of 4 sts + 4)Row 1 (RS) Purl.Row 2 Knit.Row 3 (RS) P4, turn, *cast on 8 sts using knitted on cast-on, p4 turn; rep from * to end.Rows 4, 6, 8 and 10 K4, *p8, k4; rep from * to end.Rows 5, 7, 9 and 11 P4, *k8, p4; rep from * to end.

116

184

FAREAST

J a p a n

C h i n a

K o r e a

■ E A S T E R N A R T F U S E S W I T H W E S T E R N K N I T T I N G

F A R E A S T J a p a n

Hai-RiyoM y f i r e - b r e a t h i n g , f l y i n g f r i e n d h a s m o r e d e t a i l

t h a n t h e o r i g i n a l A m i g u r u m i a n i m a l p a t t e r n s ,

a n d p e r s o n a l i t y p l u s !

■ S K I L L E D K N I T T E R

W H A T Y O U ’ L L N E E D■ 1 31⁄2oz/100g skein (ea. approx 210yds/193m) of Berroco Inc. Comfort (50% superfine nylon/50% superfine acrylic) in #9750 primary red (A)■ 1 .88oz/25g hank (ea. approx 95yds/87m) of Berroco Inc. Lumina (54% cotton/36% acrylic/10% metallic) in #1620 gold coast (B)■ Size 7 (4.5mm) needles or size to obtain gauge■ Stitch marker■ Tapestry needle■ Fiberfill■ Two 5mm beads for eyes■ Wire (optional)

SizeApprox 131⁄2"H x 53⁄4"W x 8"D/34 x 14.5 x 20cm

Gauge18 sts and 26 rows = 4"/10cm in St st. TAKE TIME TO CHECK GAUGE. NOTE: Use 2 strands of B held together wherever B is used.

Tail■ With A, cast on 3 sts.Rows 1-6 Work in St st. Row 7 (RS) Kfb, k to last st, kfb–5 sts.Row 8 Purl.Rep rows 1-8 five times more–15 sts.Cont even in St st until tail measures approx 7.5"/19cm from beg, end with a WS row.

Body■ Next (inc) row (RS) *Kfb; rep from * to end – 30 sts.Next row Purl.Rep inc row–60 sts.Work even in St st for 21⁄2"/6.5cm, end with a WS row.

Next row (RS) K20, ssk, k16, k2tog, pm, k20–58 sts.

Next row Purl.Next row K20, ssk, k to 2 sts before next marker, k2tog, k20–56 sts.Rep last 2 rows until 44 sts rem. P next WS row.Next row K20, ssk, k2tog, k20–42 sts.

Neck■ Next (dec) row (RS) [K2, ssk] 5 times, [k2, k2tog] 5 times, k2–32 sts.Next row Purl.Next row [K1, ssk] 5 times, k2, [k2tog, k1] 5 times–22 sts.Work even in St st for 11⁄2"/4cm, end with a WS row.Next (dec) row (RS) K1, k2tog, k to last 3 sts, ssk, k1–20 sts.Cont in St st, working dec row every 10th row until 10 sts rem, then every 4th row twice–6 sts.Work even in St st for 11⁄2"/4cm, end with a WS row.

Head■ Next (inc) row (RS) *Kfb; rep from * to end–12 sts.Next row Purl.Next (inc) row [K1, kfb] 5 times, k2–17 sts.

200

...a fusion of JapaneseAmigurumi and a ChineseNew Year’s celebrationdragon from my Chinatown neighborhood.}Inspired by...

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THE GLOBALGU IDE TOTRAD IT IONS ,TECHN IQUESAND DES IGN

KNITTING ONTOPOF THEWORLD

NickyEpsteinOne of today’s most popular and belovedknitting designers and authors,NickyEpstein has gained internationalrecognition for her innovative work,whimsical and high-fashion sense of style,and informative workshops. She hasauthored many bestselling books, includingNicky Epstein:The Essential EdgingsCollection, an anthology of her threepopular edgings titles,Knitting on the Edge,Over the Edge and Beyond the Edge; NickyEpstein Knitted Flowers; Nicky Epstein’sSignature Scarves; and two patterncollections for 18-inch dolls,Nicky EpsteinKnits for Dolls and Nicky Epstein Crochetfor Dolls. Her unique designs haveappeared in Vogue Knitting ® and manyother publications, as well as on televisionand in museums.Nicky lives in NewYorkCity and travels extensively aroundthe world teaching and lecturing on theart and craft that she loves.

Nicky Epstein

THE GLOBAL GUIDE TO TRADIT IONS ,TECHNIQUES AND DES IGNJoin Nicky Epstein on a world tour of knitting traditions andtechniques, with more than 50 fabulous new designs.Nicky details theorigin and use of classic knitting techniques—Fair Isle, appliqué,Aranand more—in folk-knitting traditions from around the globe, thenreinvigorates and recombines these techniques in her own inimitableway to create all-new, innovative designs and traditions.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY ROSE CALLAHAN

� Windswept Isles� Far North� OldWorld Europe� Around theMediterranean

� Far East� NewWorld 9 7 8 1 9 3 6 0 9 6 7 5 6

5 1 9 9 5

ISBN: 978-1-936096-75-6

$19.95 US • $21.95 CAN

C R A F T S • K N I T T I N G

KNITTING ONTOPOF THE WORLD

Nicky Epstein

vBooks

Nicky

An imprint of Sixth&Spring Books

Epstein

PR INTED IN CH INA

Nicky Epstein presents in this book a collectionof new patterns unprecedented for a majordesigner in its size and scope:more than50 gorgeous designs, drawing inspiration fromknitting traditions around the world whilestaying true to her signature style. Knit aroundthe world with Nicky and enjoy a designer’s viewof knitting history, culture and techniques.Inside you’ll find:

LIVELY, INFORMATIVE HISTORIES coveringmajor knitting regions, including the ShetlandIslands, Ireland, the Baltics, Germany, SouthAmerica and more

ILLUSTRATIONSAND EXPLANATIONSof traditional techniques, such as intarsia,Bohus and entrelac

FULL-COLOR PHOTOGRAPHYAND CHARTSincluded with the pattern instructions

U.S. $19.95 • CANADA $21.95

KNITTING ONTOPOF THEWORLDTHE GLOBAL GUIDE TO TRADIT IONS ,

TECHNIQUES AND DES IGN

vBooks

Nicky

An imprint of Sixth&Spring Books

Epstein

Nicky Epstein

vBooks

NickyEpstein

KNIT

TIN

GON

TOPOFTHEW

ORLD

TH

EG

LO

BAL

GUID

ETO

TRAD

ITIO

NS,

TECH

NIQ

UES

AN

DD

ESIG

N

{

Nicky

Epstein

v

NE KOTOTW_PPB Cover_FINAL:Layout 1 4/10/14 3:45 PM Page 1