From Cincinnati to Sumatra

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    Harapan is getting restless.

    But 22 hours in a crate will do that to you.

    The 1,800-pound rhino is throwing a temper tantrum. He stomps hisfeet, kicks the back of the crate, lets out a few deep breaths.

    Oh, Haaaaarrraapaaaan, comes a calm, reassuring voice fromoutside the crate. Cincinnati zookeeper Paul Reinhart has spentthe better part of this leg of the 10,000-mile trip on a ight fromAnchorage to Hong Kong in the cargo area with Harapan.

    It was, after all, Reinharts decision to transport the rhino from theCincinnati Zoo & Botanical Garden where Harapan has lived forthe last two years without a tranquilizer.

    From Cincinnati to SumatraTaking a rhino across the world in a cargo plane

    Paul Reinhart sits by Harapans crate while traveling on a cargo plane. Emily Maxwell | WCPO

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    Tranquilizers can mask an animals condition if something goeswrong. The medical teams biggest concern was Harapans legsswelling or cramping inside the crate. Too much swelling could causelong-term damage to his limbs. But at the same time, a nearly two-ton animal that hasnt been sedated could pose enormous risk bothin the cargo plane and other legs of the journey.

    Are you sure, Paul? veterinarian Dr. Jenny Nollman had askedbefore they left. But he kept saying, Hes going to be calm and going

    to be ne.

    After spending 34 years at the zoo and a majority of his career caringfor Sumatran rhinos, Reinhart knows Harapan. He also knows its upto him to keep Harapan who has become to him over the yearssomething between a pet and a child calm and fed for the next dayand a half of travel.

    Harapan lets out gusts of teen-like angst and kicks the back of hiscrate. His face pops out from the top of the crate, and Reinhartstrokes Harapans face near one of his horns. Harapan leans intoReinharts hand.

    It is a simple, sweet moment. A moment that perhaps shouldnt stickout in a story of survival, of potential extinction.

    Scientists estimate only 100 Sumatran rhinos are left in existence,making Harapan one of the most valuable animals in the world.

    It is up to Harapan and another male rhino at the Sumatran RhinoSanctuary in southern Sumatra to help keep the species from goingextinct. A 2-year-old male also lives on the grounds, but he wont besexually mature for years.

    Millions of visitors saw Harapan at zoos over the years. Born inCincinnati, Harapan spent a stint at the Los Angeles Zoo before

    returning to the Queen City in 2013. Now, he could be the key tomaking sure the Sumatran rhino isnt the next mammal to go extinct.

    But rst, the team has to get Harapan to his new home.

    And with a day and a half of travel left, dwindling food supplies anda restless rhino, Reinhart and the zoo team still have a long way togo and a host of obstacles to face, including the risk of poachers before they can begin thinking about goodbyes.

    Following the death of his sister, Suci, in 2014, Harapan became theonly Sumatran rhino in captivity in the Western Hemisphere.

    With Harapan going o to his new place, it is very sad for a lot ofus and we will miss him personally, but given the situation we werein, it was the right thing to do, said Dr. Terri Roth, director of theCenter for Conservation and Research of Endangered Wildlife at theCincinnati Zoo.

    Roth is also a prominent leader in the Sumatran rhino captivebreeding program.

    Operation Rhino Drop: How do you transport a rhino

    10,000 miles?

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    Harapans father, Ipuh, was the only male Sumatran rhino incaptivity in the United States when the program began in 1984. Aftera breakthrough in research, Roth successfully bred Ipuh with hisfemale partner, Emi. She gave birth to the rst Sumatran rhino calfborn in captivity in more than 112 years.

    That calf was Andalas, Harapans brother, who was transported to theSumatran Rhino Sanctuary in 2007. The now-14-year-old rhino hascontinued his Cincinnati familys legacy, siring the rst calf in captivity

    in Indonesia three years ago.

    And now it was Harapans turn.

    The zoo led miles of paperwork with both the United States andIndonesian governments as part of the months-long preparationprocess. The U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service needed to certify Harapansdeparture. The Cincinnati Zoo had to book a space on board a CathayPacic cargo plane for the 30-hour trek across the world. Harapanhad to undergo medical testing and vaccinations and spend 30 daysin quarantine before he could leave.

    In August, the zoo announced Harapan would be leaving Cincinnati

    for Indonesia to help keep his species from going extinct. At the time,the Sumatran rhino was ocially declared extinct in Malaysia.

    The race was on for the zoo to transport Harapan to Sumatra. SinceHarapan was the prime age for breeding and needed to be movedwhile it was still warm enough for him to be outside during transport,the zoo had a lot to do. And quickly.

    I rst learned the zoo was planning to transport Harapan whileworking on a story last year about his father, Ipuh. The zoo donatedhis body to the Cincinnati Museum Center following his death in2013. Ive never had a particular interest in rhinos, but wildlifeconservation has always been close to my heart.

    When I was in kindergarten, I wanted to save the whales eventelling people I had changed my name to Emily KillerWhale Maxwell. (Thats dedication, folks.) When Iwas 10, my interests shifted to zoology after meetingfamed zoo director Jack Hanna and posing for a photowith him and a baby snow leopard.

    My career veered down a dierent path, and I amnow a photojournalist for WCPO.com. In my ve yearshere, Ive weaseled my way into working on severalassignments about the Cincinnati Zoo. Ive even beengiven the unocial title of zoo beat reporter for ourdigital team.

    I casually pitched the idea to my editors last October.What if I go with Harapan? Document the process?I mean, how cool would it be to show people thelogistics of transporting a rhinoceros 10,000 miles?

    That began our own logistical gantlet.

    The decision to go wasnt made lightly. My life could be in danger onthe trip.

    My brother Nigel and myself with JackHanna at the Columbus Zoo.

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    Our corporate risk analyst cautioned me about the threat ofterrorism in the region where we were traveling. ISIS had put out abounty on Western journalists because the group wants to beheadjournalists on video and then share that video worldwide.

    We had to take security precautions and even develop code wordsso that I could communicate to my editor that I was safe while I wasgone.

    I knew that despite the risk, this was too important a story to passup. This was a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to document the lastSumatran rhino the Western Hemisphere would likely see beingtransported to his native homeland in an attempt to revive hisspecies. How could I not go?

    I wasnt ocially approved to go until 8 a.m. the day before ourdeparture.

    Before I knew it, I was riding in a zoo van in front of a Penske truckcarrying Harapan to Columbus.

    Forget snakes: We put a rhino on a planeA crowd of about 50 zoo employees gathered outside in a back lot ofthe Cincinnati Zoo. It was Friday, Oct. 30: Harapans moving day andthere was hardly a dry eye in the house.

    The crowd stared anxiously while a forklift moved Harapans woodencrate until it was safely secured in the yellow Penske moving truck.

    Reinhart stayed by Harapans side in the back of the Penske truckfor the two-hour drive to the Columbus airport. The rest of the team,which included Nollman, zoo videographer Pat Story and myself,drove in a van in front of the truck.

    Zoo employees load Harapans crate into a moving truck. Emily Maxwell | WCPO

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    As I watched drivers pass our caravan on the highway, it struck methat not one had a clue the truck was carrying one of the worldsmost endangered animals.

    Once in Columbus, teams from the zoo and Cathay Pacic spenthours carefully packaging Harapans crate with supplies and foodonto a platform that would be moved inside the cargo plane.

    The airline is no stranger to transporting animals abroad, particularlyrace horses. While this was the rst time a rhino had been on board,the airline crew knew what to do. They lined the bottom of the cratewith plastic to prevent his waste (bet you didnt think you were goingto read about rhino pee today) from spilling over in the event thewood shavings inside the crate werent enough to soak it up.

    6:30 p.m., Friday, Oct. 30: Crews prepare to load Harapan onto planein Columbus

    After all of the other cargo had been arranged on the plane, workersloaded Harapan and all of our gear.

    Here is a look at the ight route. At each stop, we had a two-hourlayover. Unlike human passengers, Harapan didnt get a chance toget up and stretch his legs.

    Rhinos personalities are similar to dogs. Maybe even toddlers. Theylove people and attention. Naps are crucial. So are their favoritesnacks. And they get restless when theyre conned in a small spacefor too long.

    If something were to happen with Harapan, Nollman was on hand toadminister a tranquilizer or medications. But they had other ways tohelp keep the rhino happy, and hoped only to have to medicate ortranquilize him if absolutely necessary.

    This interactive map, made with StoryMap.js, gives an overview of the journey

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    Reinhart and Nollman came prepared with Harapans favorite snacks:apples and carrots. But they had to work around TransportationSecurity Administration rules to prepare them: Knives werentallowed on board, so Nollman used the steel bars of the crate to cutthe fruits and vegetables.

    In the more than 30 hours in the air, the rhino only urinated a fewtimes. Harapan, apparently, has an enormous bladder.

    He pooped just once at the very end of the trip. (Look at that. You getto read about rhino poop today, too.)

    I was afraid the smell would be something like walking into anunkempt horse stall. But it was barely noticeable thanks to the woodchips.

    Aside from takeo and landing, Reinhart and Nollman took turnsstaying with Harapan in the cargo area.

    Its an awesome responsibility to take care of one of the rarestanimals on earth, and bring him to the other side of the earth is aneven more awesome responsibility, Reinhart said. You never take

    that lightly.

    1:30 p.m. (Indonesian time), Sunday, Nov. 1, Indonesia: Plane arrivesin Jakarta

    When we nally arrived in Jakarta, sleep-deprived, sun-deprived andnot really knowing what day it was, we were blasted by 94-degreeheat. The plane doors opened and a wave of humidity hovered overus as we waited to be escorted to customs. Nollman stayed behindwith Harapan while the rest of us obtained work visas and presentedthe proper paperwork so we could ocially move the rhino o theplane. He had been in his crate for about 40 hours at this point.

    Dr. Jenny Nollman prepares food for Harapan while aboard the cargo plane. Emily Maxwell | WCPO

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    But Harapan was home.

    Well, almost.

    Sta members from the Sumatran Rhino Sanctuary and Roth greetedus at the airport. They were anxious to see how Harapan held upduring the long ight. He had slept most of the last leg of the trip,but his restlessness was settling in again with the commotion of theairport.

    A dozen or so photographers and journalists swarmed his cratewhen he was brought from the tarmac to the cargo area inside theterminal. This was the last time a member of the public would likelysee him in person, and everyone wanted to get a look.

    The Jakarta airport sta unpacked the last of his food and supplies,accidentally removing the plastic lining from the bottom of the crate.A gush of rhino urine and poop oozed onto the cement oor, barelymissing the workers and us. Theres nothing funnier than splatteredrhino waste after 30-plus hours in an airplane.

    Especially with the prospect of 10 more hours of travel to go.

    The Race for Sumatra

    A large crowd of spectators and media gathered as a forklift carriedHarapans crate out of the airport and into the back of a safari-liketruck with zebra stripes on the sides.

    They were witnessing the worlds last Sumatran rhino outside ofIndonesia return to its native homeland. They knew this was ahistoric moment.

    A media swarm greeted the Cincinnati Zoo team and Harapan when they arrived in Jakarta.Emily Maxwell | WCPO

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    Armed police escorted the truck out of the airport to keep crowdsin control and to make the drive to our next stop, a ferry dock aboutthree hours away, a bit easier.

    About 9 million people live in Jakarta, and they all seemed to hit thehighway as soon as we did. Our team separated into vehicles withsta members and volunteers from the Sumatran Rhino Sanctuarywho met us at the airport. We were driving behind the rhino truckand police escort, moving inches at a time. Motorcycles zipped in and

    out of trac while cars of all sizes switched lanes without warning.

    This isnt bad for a Sunday, said a volunteer with Yayasan BadakIndonesia, also known as YABI or the International Rhino Foundation,while sitting in the back seat of an SUV with me. Videographer PatStory and I politely grinned and held our collective breath as carsmerged across lanes just inches from each other.

    Queens I Just Want To Break Free came on the radio appropriatefor Harapans current state.

    By the time we arrived at the Sunda Strait Bridge, we were still about

    six hours from the sanctuary, and Harapan had been crated for 43hours.

    At the dock, the vehicles traveling with the rhino led onto the ferry,where we spent the next three hours coasting the calm waters ofthe Sunda Strait. The sky was pitch black, the humidity thick. A groupof locals, along with the zoo team and sanctuary sta, stood by therhino in the parking lot area on the ferry.

    Reinhart, Nollman and Roth climbed onto the top of the truck withHarapans crate to continue to look after Harapan, who went througha few restless ts before nally falling asleep.

    Sta from the Sumatran Rhino Sanctuary drive Harapans crate in a truck to a ferry in Jarkarta.Emily Maxwell | WCPO

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    At this point, we had been wearing the same clothes for almost threedays and had hardly slept. A few of us took naps on benches in theindoor area of the ferry the last air-conditioned room we wouldexperience for the rest of our time in Sumatra. Others tried to catch abreeze outside while the ferry continued along the water.

    But the zoo teams focus remained on a sleeping Harapan.

    Ill be so glad when hes out of his crate, Reinhart said.

    When Harapan woke, he ate plants retrieved from the rainforest inSumatra. It was the rst time he had eaten plants from his nativeland.

    2 a.m. Monday, Nov. 2: Sumatran Rhino Sanctuary

    When we nally arrived at the sanctuary, Harapan had been in hiscrate for 51 hours. We were tired, sweaty and smelly. We had been inIndonesia for more than 12 hours and traveling for 40, but it was farfrom quitting time.

    We were in the middle of the rainforest, using our cellphones as

    ashlights to navigate the ground. A truck drove Harapans crate toan enclosure in the park where a crane lifted him o the truck andinto his new paddock.

    But the transition wasnt as easy at night.

    Harapan would be quarantined for at least a week until he acclimatedto his new environment. That meant his new area was covered inmosquito netting. Crews from the sanctuary had to cut the netting sothe crane could lift his crate close enough to let him out safely. Mendisappeared into the rainforest to cut down logs to slide his crate tothe doors of the pen.

    Zookeeper Paul Reinhart watches Harapan as he takes his rst few steps after 53 hours in a crate. Emily Maxwell| WCPO

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    It took nearly two hours to complete the mission.

    Finally, the crate opened, one side crashing to the ground.

    Go on Harapanslooooow, Reinhart coaxed him. Gooood boy...Aww there he is.

    A tired crew gave a round of applause as Harapan calmly took hisrst steps in three days, backing slowly out of the crate into his new

    enclosure. A pile of fresh plants and tree branches was waiting forhim and he began to munch on a much-deserved late-night snack. Hestretched his legs like a newborn calf, walking slowly in circles.

    Harapan was nally home.

    Home Sweet Home: The Beginning and the End

    The Sumatran Rhino Sanctuary is 250 acres of rainforest outside theWay Kambas National Park in Lampung, Sumatra. Each rhino has 20-

    25 enclosed acres to themselves. Every morning the sta feeds them,washes them and gives them routine medical exams. They spendonly about 2 to 3 hours in an enclosed space, then the rest of thetime browsing the rainforest.

    The sanctuary has a female in mind for Harapan named Rosa.But before Harapan can be introduced to her, he will remainin quarantine to monitor his health until he adjusts to his newenvironment and the various risks, such as native insects.

    Thanks to the sanctuarys Rhino Protection Unit, one of those risksis no longer poachers. The Way Kambas National Park has not had

    Harapan eats plants in his new enclosure at the Sumatran Rhino Sanctuary in Lampung.Emily Maxwell | WCPO

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    a rhino death because of poaching in more than eight years thanksto these armed guards, who keep watch over the three females andthree males that live at the sanctuary.

    Before the guards were brought to the sanctuary, the risk ofpoaching was much higher. The Sumatran rhino is the only Asianrhino with two horns, which are used in traditional Chinese medicine,making them a valuable asset on the black market.

    But why is it important to save this species? Why are governmentsacross the world joining forces to halt extinction?

    For Roth, the answer is simple. It comes down to us.

    Harapans departure from Cincinnati signies the end of U.S. zoosinvolvement in the Sumatran rhino breeding program. Roth has runthe program at the Cincinnati Zoo for the past 18 years.

    During that time, she has shared her research with the SumatranRhino Sanctuary sta, specically helping them to breed Harapans

    The Rhino Protection Unit

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    relatives Andalas and Ratu. The next success will (hopefully) beHarapans ospring, which makes walking away from the program atad easier for Roth to bear.

    I think the kind of contribution weve already made and the one yetto be made is something that nobody can ever take away from theCincinnati Zoo, Roth said. Nobody can ever take it away from me.Weve done our small part.

    At 8 years old, Harapan is at his prime both sexually and socially to interact with other rhinos, which is why the zoo wanted to actquickly.

    Sumatran rhino conservation is not only for Indonesia, butthe species belongs to the world. Therefore, I think the value ofHarapan is very big, said Widobo Ramono, executive director of theIndonesian Rhino Foundation.

    Ramono has worked closely with Roth over the years on the globaleort to conserve the species. Hes thankful the zoo shared itsscientic advancements in breeding with the sanctuary.

    With a dwindling population of less than 100, even just one rhinocounts, Ramono said.

    The thing about the value of this (Sumatran Rhino Sanctuary), is thatwe only had ve and now we have six. That is more than 20 percentof the value of the whole rhino conservation, Ramono said.

    Harapan Means Hope

    5 a.m. Wednesday, Nov. 4, Sumatran Rhino Sanctuary

    Its the last day of the trip. And its time to say goodbye to Harapan.

    Paul Reinhart hugs Andalas, the rst Sumatran rhino to be born in captivity in more than 112 years. He was bornat the Cincinnati Zoo in 2001 and was transported to the sanctuary in 2007. Emily Maxwell | WCPO

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    I asked Reinhart how he would describe his relationship with therhino. His response? Hes family.

    Reinhart spent the night before sleeping next to Harapans stall, fullyexposed in the dark rainforest.

    People are going to think Im weird, but we said our peace. I toldhim he was going to be OK, Reinhart says as Harapan chews on

    Reinharts clothes, playfully seeking his attention.

    He sits down on the wet cement oor of Harapans enclosure. Theman and the rhino lean against each other.

    Youre going to be a good boy here, Reinhart says as he pats andstrokes the rough skin around Harapans face. He gently holds theanimals upper horn.

    Reinhart has cared for every member of Harapans family over theyears. So he is saying goodbye to a lot more than just one rhino.

    But knowing Harapan could help revive the species helps Reinhart

    with his nal farewell.

    Emilyyou said, Is there hope for Sumatran rhinos? and the answeris yes, there is. Theres Harapan. And Harapan means hope. Hesgoing to come through, Reinhart says, stroking Harapans face.

    After feeding Harapan one last banana - his favorite treat -- Reinhartgives him one nal pat and walks away from the enclosure for thelast time.

    Harapan follows until he reaches the edge of the fence. He standsstill for a few seconds, then walks into his new life.

    Paul Reinhart says his nal goodbyes to Harapan at the sanctuary. Emily Maxwell | WCPO

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    Harapan walks back to his new enclosure after the zoo team walks away from the paddock. Emily Maxwell | WCPO

    Video documentary (YouTube):

    Sumatran rhino Harapan: Cincinnati Zoo travels to Sumatra to save an

    endangered species

    Photo Galleries:

    Rhino onboard: Cargo ight from Ohio to Indonesia

    Getting Harry out of the crate: The race from Jakarta to Sumatra

    Rhino Protection Unit: Group keeps poachers out of Way Kambas National Park

    A tour of the Sumatran Rhino Sanctuary in Lampung

    Farewell to Harapan: Cincinnati Zoo team says goodbye to rhino in Sumatra

    Interactive StoryMap:

    StoryMapJS: Harrys Journey

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c0gusbmgPSshttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c0gusbmgPSshttp://www.wcpo.com/lifestyle/lifestyle-photo-gallery/rhino-onboard-cargo-flight-from-ohio-to-indonesiahttp://www.wcpo.com/lifestyle/lifestyle-photo-gallery/getting-harry-out-of-the-crate-the-race-from-jakarta-to-sumatrahttp://www.wcpo.com//lifestyle/lifestyle-photo-gallery/rhino-protection-unit-group-keeps-poachers-out-of-way-kambas-national-parkhttp://www.wcpo.com//lifestyle/lifestyle-photo-gallery/a-tour-of-the-sumatran-rhino-sanctuary-in-lampunghttp://www.wcpo.com/lifestyle/lifestyle-photo-gallery/farewell-to-harapan-cincinnati-zoo-staff-says-goodbye-to-sumatran-rhinohttp://media2.wcpo.com/html/maps/Harrys_Journey/rhinomap.htmlhttp://media2.wcpo.com/html/maps/Harrys_Journey/rhinomap.htmlhttp://www.wcpo.com/lifestyle/lifestyle-photo-gallery/farewell-to-harapan-cincinnati-zoo-staff-says-goodbye-to-sumatran-rhinohttp://www.wcpo.com//lifestyle/lifestyle-photo-gallery/a-tour-of-the-sumatran-rhino-sanctuary-in-lampunghttp://www.wcpo.com//lifestyle/lifestyle-photo-gallery/rhino-protection-unit-group-keeps-poachers-out-of-way-kambas-national-parkhttp://www.wcpo.com/lifestyle/lifestyle-photo-gallery/getting-harry-out-of-the-crate-the-race-from-jakarta-to-sumatrahttp://www.wcpo.com/lifestyle/lifestyle-photo-gallery/rhino-onboard-cargo-flight-from-ohio-to-indonesiahttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c0gusbmgPSshttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c0gusbmgPSs