Footwear Plus Magazine | April/May 2016

G . H . B A S S : R E B O R N A N D R E I M AG I N E D • T H E R I S E O F P U R E P L AY D 2 C B R A N D S • T R E N D S P OT T I N G : D E S E R T B O OT S

M A X I N G O U T

Comfort Goes Full Throttle

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Børn Footwear | New York Showroom | 1441 Broadway | 15th Floor | New York, NY

FOOTWEAR PLUS ™ (ISSN#1054-898X) The fashion magazine of the footwear industry is published monthly (except for bimonthly April/May and October/November editions) by Symphony Publishing NY, LLC, 36 Cooper Square, 4th fl., New York, NY, 10003-7118. The publishers of this magazine do not accept responsibility for statements made by their advertisers in business competition. Periodicals postage is paid in New York, NY, and additional mailing offices. Subscription price for one year: $48.00 in the U.S. Rates oustide the U.S. are available upon request. Single copy price: $10.00. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to FOOTWEAR PLUS, P.O. Box 8548, Lowell, MA 01853-8548. Publisher not responsible for unsolicited articles or photos. Any photographs, artwork, manuscripts, editorial samples or merchandise sent for editorial consideration are sent at the sole risk of the sender. Symphony Publishing NY, LLC, will assume no responsibility for loss or damage. No portion of this issue may be reproduced without the written permission of the publisher. ©2008 by Symphony Publishing NY, LLC. Printed in the United States.

On the cover: Hogl lace-up boots, Alonzo vest over Bernhard Willhelm top, Jose Duran skirt worn as throw, Current Elliott jeans, earrings by Marc Jacobs with Alonzo cuffs, Laruicci choker and John Brevard ring.

This page: Slip-on wedge by Hispanitas, platform buckled bootie by Very Volatile.

4 Editor’s Note 6 Scene & Heard 8 This Just In 21 A Note to My Younger Self 24 Trend Spotting 36 Shoe Salon 38 E-Beat 40 Kids 42 What’s Selling 44 Last Word

A P R I L / M AY 2 0 1 6 10 A Threat, or Nothing to Fret? The pureplay direct-to-consumer model represents a growing market segment, but should retailers be concerned? By Lauren Olsen

12 Doing the Right Things Jeffrey Goldfarb, director of business development for G-III, licensor of G.H. Bass, on relaunching the iconic American heritage brand the right way.By Greg Dutter

18 It Goes Without Saying Why the comfort category may have finally reached a point in its evolution where the descriptive is no longer even warranted. By Greg Dutter

22 Gentle Women Classic men’s oxfords fit for a lady. By Ann Loynd

26 Industrial Revolution Platform soles with edgy cutouts mark a new era of lightweight, comfortable and bold design. By Ann Loynd

Photographer: Joseph Pluchino; Fashion Editor: Ann Loynd; stylists: Edda Gudmundsdottir and Brynja Skjaldardottir; hair and makeup: Abraham Sprinkle/Next Artists; model: Adriana M./ Muse Management.

PA G E

26

Caroline Diaco Publisher

Greg Dutter Editorial Director

Nancy Campbell Trevett McCandliss Creative Directors

EDITORIAL Ann Loynd Senior Editor

Lauren Olsen Associate Editor

Kathy Passero Editor at Large

Melodie Jeng Contributing Photographer

Judy Leand Contributing Editor

ADVERTISING/ PRODUCTION Jennifer Craig Associate Publisher

Katie Belloff Associate Art Director Production Manager

Allison Kastner Operations Manager

Bruce Sprague Circulation Director

Mike Hoff Digital Director

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E D I T O R ’ S N O T E

Punch Drunk

BODY BLOWSThe hits just keep coming lately—and they’ve got many retailers on the ropes.

THE BALMY FALL that left many boot inventories bloated was a big blow to retail. For many in the business, it felt like a dev-astating hook from Mother Nature after a barrage of jabs. Sometimes being in this industry can make you feel like a boxer in the umpteenth round with no bell sounding.

For those scoring the fight, the anemic economy has stretched on for nearly a

decade. The growth of direct-to-consumer (D2C) business models is taking an increasing bite out of sales and profits. Rising fixed costs are also taking their toll. As if that’s not bad enough, there are reports of a large-scale shift among consumers seeking experiential purchases instead of material ones. And let’s not forget the (endless) presidential election, a freak show that has millions of consumers rub-bernecking the 24/7 news coverage. You might say they’re scared shop-less.

It’s no surprise that many retailers are bruised and bloodied. In fact, plenty have already gone down for the count or been given TKOs in the form of bankruptcy filings. Others are closing doors like a prize fighter trying to shed pounds before a weigh-in. What’s particularly alarming is that many of them are former heavyweight champions—the Alis and Foremans of the retail ring. It’s one thing when the undercards or journeymen fall by the wayside. But when some of the top dogs take a knee, the fear is real. It’s like having to face Mike Tyson in his prime.

Retailers could use a breather. Better still, they could use something to ease the pain. Unfortunately, we’ve got another six months of political folly to endure, and until that’s settled, the economy isn’t likely to improve. Until then, we’ll have to fall back on retailing basics—bobbing, weaving and counterpunching—to keep standing.

Take D2C, for example. It’s a feisty foe, especially pureplay upstarts that pull no punches in their positioning against retail-ers. Many label them greedy rip-off artists who charge shoppers unjustifiably high markups. But their claims of offering equal—or better—merchandise at half the normal retail cost can’t be brushed aside anymore, as more competitors enter the marketplace. This

month’s Special Report (“A Threat or Nothing to Fret?”; p. 10) delves into this intensifying battle, advising retailers to fight back with service, setting and breadth of selection, among other unique attributes, to justify the markup.

A similar proactive strategy applies to consumers seeking expe-riential purchases. Such a shift presents plenty of opportunity. For example, bucket list travel destinations, fitness-oriented goals and dining out in nice restaurants are trending. They all require appropriate footwear. So be a part of making these experiences better by selling the shoes that make customers comfortable and stylish. Great strides continue to be made by combining those two, as evidenced by this month’s fall fashion story (“Industrial

Revolution”; p. 26). Comfort has never looked so cool.

The fact is, consumers today expect and demand both. If the athleisure trend tells us anything, it’s that performance and style (i.e. wearable technology) span everything from handhelds to shoes. This month’s Defining Comfort: Fall ’16 feature (“It Goes Without Saying”; p. 18) reveals how far leading brands have come in the versatility trend and why the fight has only just begun. Even if customers never hike to the top of Mt. Kilimanjaro or run the New York City Marathon, the comfort of knowing they could in those shoes is what matters. The grander point is: Why just sell commodities when you

can sell solutions that improve lives? A rebellion against mindless materialism might be inevitable, given current macro demographic trends such as aging Baby Boomers who don’t want more stuff and millions of Millennials drowning in student loan debt.

The sweet science of retail is a never-ending fight. It requires mental toughness, physical stamina and, most of all, heart. You need passion and determination to step into the ring seven days a week and fight for survival. It’s not a life for the meek as Mark Jubelirer, owner of Reyers Shoe Store in Sharon, PA, can surely attest. The long-time steel town retailer and subject of our new department (“A Note to My Younger Self ”; p. 20), reflects on his decision to keep slugging it out rather than move the business to greener pastures. It’s an honest and inspiring read. So, hats off to those still standing and putting up the good fight.

Greg Dutter Editorial Director

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Purveyors of luxury European comfort footwear

Tel: (800) 361-3466 - [email protected]

Purveyors of luxury European comfort footwear

www.gabor.de



S C E N E & H E A R D

Footwear Cares Kicks Off

THE TWO TEN Footwear Foundation kicked off its annual Footwear Cares month with a charitable celebration at Suite 36 in New York. At the launch party, attendees stuffed new backpacks donated by Under Armour with school supplies in support of Win, an organization designed to help the homeless and their children throughout the five boroughs.

“We were thrilled with the energy and enthusiasm for the Footwear Cares launch party,” says Neal Newman, president of Two Ten Footwear Foundation. “Over three hours, an estimated 100 shoepeople and support-ers from 19 companies joined us to assemble backpacks for 100 home-less children in New York.”

The night stirred up enthusiasm for the fourth annual Footwear Cares month of April, the only industry-wide community service program of its kind in the U.S. “We expect over 8,000 shoepeople—volunteers from 125-plus footwear companies—will be engaged in this year’s campaign,” Newman says. “In just four short years, we’ve grown Footwear Cares to this size and scale, which isn’t entirely surprising because shoepeople are naturally oriented toward service.” That spirit is so contagious that, after the party, several staff members from Suite 36 volunteered to participate at New York’s group event at the end of April.

This year’s Footwear Cares effort will focus on improving the lives of disadvantaged children, in particular. Along with title sponsor Amazon Fashion, 2016 Footwear Cares partners with organizations including The Children’s Trust and Cradles to Crayons, and will conduct shoe drives and projects with food banks and children’s charities throughout the month of April in 25 states. “We all look forward to seeing shoepeople working together, rallying, mobilizing our energy for the common good—to help children smile and feel good about themselves and their families,” Newman says, adding, “That’s what we are looking forward to, first and foremost.”

AS A PART of a brand-repositioning effort last year, Sperry, a division of Wolverine Worldwide, partnered with American tattoo artist Rob Hotte to personalize its classic Top-Sider boat shoes. With tattoos and boat shoes both rooted in nautical culture, the brand views the effort as a natural partnership. “We feel American-style tattooing expresses our nautical New England heritage, salty spirit and love for adventures,” says Magnus Wedhammar, senior vice president of product.

Hotte, who has been visiting stores around the country and, most recently, in New Zealand, to emblazon customers’ Sperrys with custom designs, agrees: “I think nautical culture has, in a way, shaped traditional American tattooing. Sailors would go port to port collecting these symbols of their everyday lives—anchors, mermaids, clipper ships and compasses.”

Wedhammer says the partnership has resonated with consumers in stores as well as at local events. In addition, he says it’s helped expand the brand’s reputation beyond sailing and yacht culture. “Sperry has always been about the adventure, and our tattoo program is a great example of our ethos,” he says, adding, “It’s also opened up the door to new custom-ers, which we love.”

Sperry plans to continue the tattoo shoe tour, and Hotte has no plans of jumping ship. “I find tattooing shoes to be very similar to tattooing people,” he offers. “There’s still that interaction and exchange of ideas that portrays their thoughts and feelings.”

LONDON-BASED ARUNA Seth was born on the leafy streets of Chelsea, so it’s only fitting that the designer released an exclusive shoe—10 pairs, to be exact—to celebrate the Queen Elizabeth II’s recent 90th birthday.

The handcrafted Union Jack wedges ($2, 000 suggested retail) are emblazoned with 3,000 Swarovski crystals, ideal for discerning shoe lovers, royal family members and Anglophiles alike. Perhaps even Aruna Seth celebrity devotees Kate Hudson and Pippa Middleton will pick up a pair!

Tattoo Shoe

God Save The Queen

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T H I S J U S T I N

Street-style stars sport fringe bags and apparel for festival-inspired looks that take center stage.

Photography by Nicole Comeau

LOOSE ENDS

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ROCKPORT.COM ©2016 THE ROCKPORT COMPANY, LLC. ROCKPORT®

DelightDetails

that


UITE OFTEN PURE play direct-to-consumer (D2C) businesses are blunt in their portrayal of retailers as greedy and unnecessary middlemen. They slander them for charging exorbitant markups for no apparent reason other than their own selfish financial gain. Rather than be fleeced, these D2C companies urge potential customers to buy direct from them as they will graciously pass on the savings in the form of lower prices for what they claim is equal quality—or better—merchandise delivered right to their doorstep, quite often with the added incentive of free shipping.

What’s not to like? No one wants to be ripped off, and everyone is receptive to paying less for quality merchandise, right? Evan Fript, co-founder and CEO of Paul Evans, a

D2C men’s dress label sourced out of Italy, says that’s exactly the basis of his business model. “By eliminating traditional shoe retailers that regularly mark up their prod-ucts by two-and-a-half times the wholesale price, our customers are saving 60 percent on handmade Italian footwear,” he claims. Fript adds that the high-quality products are offered at an “exceptional” price. The goods range from $299 for driving mocs to $449 for an alpine-inspired hiking boot. Comparable footwear styles, he notes, could be priced at about $1,000 retail.

Paul Hedrick, founder and CEO of Tecovas, a D2C maker of handmade “top-quality” cowboy boots, also says that cost savings passed onto consumers is the leading inspiration behind the company. The boots retail in the $200 range because his team was “tired of exorbitant $400 to $600 entry-level prices” for similar quality boots. Both Millennials and non-Millennials are likely to react favorably to this type of transparency. Hedrick adds that other advantages of the D2C approach include controlling the whole supply chain from idea to production to customer experience. “It’s invaluable,” he says. “We are able to do things more quickly and aren’t tied to retailer or seasonal calendars. If we have an idea, we can get the product on the market in as little as three to four months versus 12 to 18 months for traditional retail.” In addition to controlling how

a brand is positioned, priced and marketed, an added bonus for D2C brands is not having to pay margin assistance or co-op funds to retailers, he notes.

The allure of D2C brands is helped by the ease and immediacy of online shopping. Without the ability to create virtual storefronts, it would be unlikely these startup companies—many of whom are funded by crowdsourcing sites such as Kickstarter—could afford the costs of getting their brands in front of enough consumers in physical store settings. That is no longer an investment hurdle, nor is it a first-recourse shopping preference for many consumers. “[D2C] aligns to how we browse and shop,” says Lorna Hall, head of market intelligence at trend forecasting service, WGSN. “Nowadays, we do not want to look through a huge catalog of product and search by filtering and ticking boxes. We prefer a stream of curated and edited product that looks specially put together for us.” Hall attributes the increase of D2C brands, in large part, to the growth of mobile phone shopping. Specifically, a new generation of

shoppers whose first interaction with prod-ucts is made on their phones. And while it would be short-sighted to assume all D2C customers are Millennial-aged, many think this is the predominant customer demo-graphic for these brands. Ryan Babenzien, founder of Greats, a D2C sneaker company, describes his customer demographic as 100-percent Millennial and believes this highly influential generation is at the heart of this business model.

Other factors helping give rise to D2C brands, experts say, are a greater emphasis on brand storytelling and the ability to reach and convey that message through social media as opposed to traditional (more expensive) advertising methods. Indeed, many of these D2C brands position themselves as the smarter, modern alternative. For example,

the statement in the About section of the Paul Evans website states: “For men who understand the importance of shoes, there are very limited options in the brick-and-mortar world.” The website tagline on Greats reads: “It’s okay to buy status, just don’t overpay.” The brand’s website also tells the tale of how founders and industry veterans Babenzien and Jon Buscemi knew that the wholesale business of selling third party retailers was inefficient, and that “inefficiency was paid by you, the customer, in the form of higher prices.” M. Gemi, a luxury D2C women’s label, states on its home page: “Italian crafts-

S P E C I A L R E P O R T

A Threat or Nothing to Fret?

The pureplay direct-to-consumer business model represents a growing market segment and yet another form of competition for retailers, but is it

something to be concerned about? By Lauren Olsen

Paul Evans

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2016 april/may • footwearplusmagazine.com 11

manship. Modern style. Postluxury pricing.” The latter is a phrase that the company describes as a modern approach to pricing and access.

How concerned should traditional retailers be with pure play D2C competi-tors? Is this segment a minor nuisance in the grander scheme of competition? Or is this a legitimate new business model that could have serious repercus-sions going forward? On one hand, D2C brands tout superior quality at a better price, yet there is no third party verification to those claims. “These companies aren’t vetted in any way—their cost is arbitrary and their claims of quality are their own,” notes Andy Gilbert, president of licensed brands at Genesco. “There is no market price, there’s just their price.” Unless the brand selling direct is on the scale of Nike, Gilbert believes the ability to eschew all forms of third party retailing will be tough for the brands to overcome. “I still think there’s going to be a lot of retail done beyond those single brand approaches online,” he says.

Gary Champion, president of Clarks Americas, isn’t necessarily sold on the D2C premise that the quality is equal or better for less cost. He counts himself as a customer of Greats (perhaps the lone non-Millennial) and while he liked the shoes well enough and appreciated the personal touch of a letter from the co-owner thanking him for the purchase, he is unlikely to to be a repeat customer. “When I asked myself if I could find something compa-rable at $169 or below at retail, the answer was, ‘Of course I could.’” In fact, Champion believes that the styling and quality were on par with many other brands at retail. And while the let-ter also informed him that he would have paid significantly more at retail, he didn’t feel the savings was all that great.

It’s not like this D2C model doesn’t have other drawbacks as well. George Valdez, author of The Ultimate Guide to Footwear Retail Business Profits, notes there can be issues of consumer trust regarding legitimacy and familiarity. He adds that shoppers may have concerns about returns/refunds (which can be more complicated) and payment protection, privacy and security can appear questionable. Babenzien admits that established retailers possess a level of trust that D2C can’t match. Hedrick adds that the model has inherent inventory challenges. “It’s harder to reach customers at scale,” he says. “It’s easier to take one order for 1,000 pairs for a retailer than reach 1,000 different customers.” Robert Kirkwood, merchandise director of the Canadian boutique chain, Gravitypope, agrees that the challenges and expenses that come with being responsible of both manufacturing and retailing might not generate the necessary ROI. “Profitability, at the end of the day, may be no better for a D2C model than a traditional retailer,” he states.

But it’s not like the success of these brands is so insignificant that the concept can be ignored entirely. The sales numbers and new brands coming to market prove otherwise: For example, a few months after Greats launched in 2014, Babenzien reports it sold out the inventory it had projected to last half a year. What’s more, the company’s return rate sits at a remarkable 8 percent. “As far as we know, that’s the lowest return rate in the entire industry,” he says. Paul Evans, which launched in 2013, achieved $1 million in gross sales last year and recently opened its first store in Manhattan. “Our long-term goal is to open 100 guide shops internationally,” Fript says, noting the goal is $3 million in gross sales for this year. Tecovas is also reporting solid growth and plans to open its own showrooms, which Hedrick says will operate like “fit shops,” where customers can come in to try on boots, learn about the brand and have boots shipped directly to their doorsteps.

Of course, retailers can do the same. Similarly, WGSN’s Hall says some

forward-thinking retailers are integrating technologies used by D2C businesses. She explains that Topshop recently test piloted a personalization service in collaboration with Dressipi to push relevant products at the customer, allowing them to find things more easily. “Many retailers are introducing swipe-to-like and things like visual search into their shopping apps, and lots of retailers are looking to try and simplify the payment process to make it super convenient,” she notes. Of upmost importance, she adds, is making simple, personalized and convenient experiences that depend on good old-fashioned retail prin-ciples such as differentiating by brand promise and offering superior service. “Breadth of assortment [alone] does not cut it anymore,” she says.

The retail basics that can provide an optimum in-store experience must not be overlooked either. “Keep your mix fresh, your products exciting, your floors attractive, tell stories and treat your customers like they are your family members,” advises Champion. “Some people will come to your store because they like the experience—they like the selection and the ability to discover

items that they might not have know nof before. Plus, they may like the sales associate, who they know by name, and they like the way they are treated.”

Valdez recommends focusing on educating customers, creating a club membership or loyalty reward program, and being an integral part of the local community—embrace and maximize your physical advantages. Kirkwood adds the development of private label programs can offer exclusivity as well as higher margins. Last but not least, a solid website backed by a consistent social media campaign can engage and draw in shoppers, says Valdez.

It’s all about the experience, and making it a better one. Or, as Mark Jubelirer, president at Reyers Shoe Store in Sharon, PA, sums it up: “Do what you do best, and do more of it.” Along those lines, Beth Goldstein, fashion footwear and accessories industry analyst at The NPD Group, cites how some retailers and mall operators have upped the ante with renovations at key flag-ships, including the addition and upgrading of food options such as new restaurants and food trucks, creating new shop-in-shops and hold-ing more in-store events like fitness classes to attract consumers.

It remains to be seen where the pureplay D2C model is headed. Many such brands, like Paul Evans, aren’t considering a traditional retail distribution strategy—as of now. “There is no

room for it in our margin,” Fript says. But he notes that if a company like Nordstrom, for example, wanted to make an equity investment to get access to its products, he would be open to the idea. “Revenue-share agreements, collaborative product design and cross-promotion are just a few ideas that I wish more retailers—new and old—would consider adopting,” adds Hedrick.

In the meantime, the industry continues to evolve. New forms of manufac-turing, distribution and retailing are coming online. Some will stick and others may not. Pureplay D2C appears to have gained a footing for now. It’s in-step with the popularity of crowdfunding, social media and online shopping. “The way shoppers look for recommendations and shop for products is changing,” Hall affirms, adding that she expects the D2C market to continue to expand, but its progress will be in tandem with other enablers (i.e. advances in mobile payment, the growth of machine learning and smart algorithms.) “The way D2C is moving means that everybody, including traditional retailers, is going to have to become better at branding, social engagement, digital marketing, product placement and storytelling,” she says. “It would be wrong to assume that the growth of this model means that manufacturers can just ‘cut out the middleman’ and wait for the sales to come.” •

Greats

Tecovas

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OMETIMES BUSINESS DEALS just come together serendipitously. It’s as if the stars align where the opportunity arises (often unexpectedly), the needs and skill sets of the parties match up beautifully and the timing is ideal. The rebirth of the 140-year-old G.H. Bass is one such tale.

Here was this iconic American footwear brand—best known for creating the preppy fashion staple Weejun penny loafer and classic stormy weather duck

boot—that had faded to afterthought status after years of different owners, manufacturers and general neglect. Most recently owned by Phillips-Van Heusen, primarily an apparel maker, the conglomerate was looking to unload the brand. Enter G-III, also primarily an apparel conglomerate, but with the aim of expanding its portfolio of owned brands as well as entering into the footwear space. When word of the For Sale signed hanging on the brand reached G-III, it jumped at the opportunity. For starters, it’s not every day brands possessing 140 years of heritage come on the open market.

“When we learned that Bass was for sale, we couldn’t believe it,” confirms Jeffrey Goldfarb, director of business development for G-III. “Being from the Northeast, it was a brand that we all knew and grew up on. It’s incred-ibly powerful, and such heritage is something that really jumped out at us.”

G-III, which had been on the hunt for brand acquisitions to balance out its license portfolio, saw a potential gem in G.H. Bass. “It had retail, which we understood. It had brand equity, which is what we were looking for. And 50 percent of it was in apparel, which we understood very well, and the other 50 percent was a new category that we felt that we could learn and quickly leverage,” Goldfarb explains. “You look for a platform and a brand,

and G.H. Bass had both. We saw this as a great brand.”Specifically, G.H. Bass’s rich archives is a product story that begs to be

told, according to Goldfarb. And while the Weejuns is the most famous of its styles, he assures there is much more to the brand than that style. “The Weejuns is usually what gets our foot in the door and we’re lucky to have it, but the breadth of the brand is much wider,” he says. “There’s a real diverse product mix. G.H. Bass is really more of an outdoors brand as we have a strong heritage in duck and hunting boots.” Overall, Goldfarb describes G.H. Bass as an American heritage brand. “It’s not all Ivy League prep,” he quips. “There’s a Northeast sensibility to it as well as a strong outdoors element.”

When G-III completed the acquisition late in 2014, Goldfarb says the

Je ff r e y G o ld fa rb , d i r ec to r o f bu s in es s de ve lo pment f o r G -I I I , l i c e nso r o f G .H. B a s s , on r e l au n c h ing the i con ic Ame r i c an her i t age b rand t h e r i ght way.

DOING THE RIGHT THINGS

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initial plan was to reintroduce G.H. Bass on its own. And with 60 years of experience designing, manufacturing and selling a wide range of apparel for the likes of Andrew Marc, Tommy Hilfiger, Calvin Klein, Guess, Karl Lagerfeld, Vince Camuto, Cole Haan and Kenneth Cole, among others, as well as operating a retail division that oversees hundreds of doors under the Calvin Klein Performance, Vilebrequin and Wilsons Leather banners, G-III was more than confident in its abilities to make a successful crossover into footwear manufacturing. But then G-III received an offer it couldn’t refuse. It came from Andy Gilbert, vice president of licensing for Genesco, makers of Johnston & Murphy, Dockers and Chaps brands, to be the wholesale licensee of G.H. Bass. Gilbert saw it as a win-win for both com-panies. He envisioned the ability for two established conglomerates to partner and use their respective core competencies to the greater success of G.H. Bass. Gilbert also relished the opportunity to license a genuine footwear brand as opposed to its existing license agreements that has the company making shoes for apparel-first brands like Dockers and Chaps. “Here’s this 140-year-old footwear brand where we wouldn’t have to create the platform—it’s already there,” he says. “When I think of what we are good at in terms of design, development and styling, our strengths in terms of distribution and the brand’s positioning and price, it just all fits really well.”

Goldfarb and the rest of his G-III team agreed—partnering with Genesco made perfect sense. “We’re both large sophisticated companies, but the divisions that are work-ing together are very entrepreneurial and anything that has to get done, gets done,” he says. “If you have to get on a plane and find a factory or get the fit just right on a certain shoe, Genesco’s corporate culture is to roll up your sleeves and get it done. G-III’s is the same way.” That strong backroom philosophy on teamwork extends to the front room as well. For example, Goldfarb says the companies will call on accounts together, if necessary. “We showroom together when it’s needed,” he adds. “We do some of the women’s apparel at wholesale where we’ll rig it with their footwear. We try to be as team-oriented as possible, and it’s been working really well.” Adds Goldfarb, “Honestly, I don’t think we would have chosen anyone else to partner with on G.H. Bass.”

Gilbert says the collaboration is off to a harmonious start. “They are phenomenal partners,” says the veteran of many license deals. “They can get people to the table on the department store side like no other. And when we approach retailers, we do so collectively as opposed to us placing a few with our contacts and them with theirs.” Gilbert describes G-III as incredibly sup-portive and flexible. “It allows us to leverage what we do best, which is making great men’s and now women’s footwear at tremendous quality and value,” he says, adding, “We feel really good about the brand’s potential.”

Goldfarb is equally bullish on G.H. Bass’s success going forward. The initial “blocking and tackling” of absorbing the business, making necessary store upgrades and, most importantly, the much-needed “fixing” of the product line have been made. The first collection is just landing at stores this spring.

“We’ve totally redone the footwear—the fit has been changed and everything has been made a lot better,” he says, noting that there had been a lot of differ-ent suppliers before, and consistency and quality suffered. “It now fits right, it looks right, it tells a complete story—the collection is more focused and no longer just a shotgun approach of what might sell,” Goldfarb adds.

Similarly, the distribution strategy is much more refined, according to Gilbert. To be precise, it has been cut down by 65 percent prior to the deal being signed in March of 2015. “It had gotten so broad,” he says, noting, “That’s

not the way to build a brand for the future.” Instead, the focus has been on quality over quantity. Gilbert sites Bloomingdale’s as one example. “We’ve got a fairly significant program with them for this spring where we’ve taken some of our marquee items, such as the Weejuns, and created exclusives,” he says, adding that the chain had not been a G.H. Bass customer of late. “We’ve been getting really robust sell-throughs so far,” he reports.

The other key part of the strategy is tar-geting Millennials. In addition to having relevant product, Gilbert says G.H. Bass needs to show up where that customer base likes to shop—and quite often that is in specialty stores. “We’ve done yeoman’s work to get us into some of those doors,” he says. “We have collaborated with J. Crew and we will be in Madewell, Urban Outfitters and Journeys.” While the latter is owned by Genesco, Gilbert assures it was no free pass for G.H. Bass. “They are very hard to sell because they are not going to carry anything they don’t feel is appropriate for

their customer,” he says. “The product has got to be right.”G-III’s European distributor of G.H. Bass, Overland Trading Company, is

taking a similar upscale approach. The company, regarded for its successful distributions of Caterpillar and G-Star Raw brands, is off to a roaring start with the brand, according to Gilbert. “From Harvey Nichols to Harrods to Selfridges to Printemps, they’ve got the brand showing up in the right loca-tions throughout France, UK, Germany and Spain,” he says. The company has also opened a Weejuns-only shop in London. “That level of store credibility only helps us tell the story back here,” Gilbert adds.

Overall, the relaunch of G.H. Bass to date has involved doing a lot of things right, be it experienced partners letting each do what they do best, upgrading the product line and cleaning up the distribution. It’s been a textbook approach to date that bodes well for future success. Along those lines, Goldfarb says to expect more of the same in the years ahead. “The goal is to continue to execute on the plan that we have put in place over the last year,” he notes. “To deliver the right stuff, the right styles, the right displays, find the right partners and make sure that everything fits right and just deliver great shoes. And to tell the world that G.H. Bass is back.”

What is it, specifically, about G.H. Bass that caught G-III’s attention?Everybody knows it. The story we can tell—the archives are so rich—and we believed it would be just a matter of getting the product right and doing the

O&A

O F F T H E C U F FWhat are you reading? Ametora: How Japan Saved American Style. It’s an amazing book about how Japan interprets American style and their general love of American heritage brands.

What is inspiring you right now? American heri-tage brands [laughs]. That was an easy one.

What is your motto? It says it right here on my desk: Keep it simple.

What sound do you love? Laughter.

Who is your most coveted dinner guest? My wife.

If you could hire anybody, who would it be? My kids.

What is your favorite hometown memory? I grew up in Scarsdale, NY, and it’s of being outside and just running around playing—soccer in the fall, skiing in the winter and baseball in the spring.

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blocking and tackling in the stores to get those better, and it could become a really powerful brand. We already had a retail team in place, so we we felt we could take on that effort seamlessly, and then we were fortunate enough to find the right partners in Genesco to build and distribute the product in the U.S. and Overland Trading to distribute in Europe.

It’s not every day 140-year-old brands come on the market?Yes, there are not that many of those brands around. Brands like Timberland, Sperry and Sebago all are from the northeast. And G.H. Bass fits into that realm, too. It isn’t just preppy. It’s about this Northeast heritage where American footwear manufacturing started. G.H. Bass is one of those core brands.

G.H. Bass also has that enviable quality of being a more gender-neutral brand, correct?It’s 50-50 gender split, which is amazing. It you look back on the brand’s heritage you can see how it’s been both a men’s and women’s brand. It plays in both areas. What’s more, there’s a real story behind all of the footwear, and it is one that we can continue to tell. Just getting the product right,

relaunching correctly and telling the brand narra-tive is a powerful story. It’s not contrived; it’s there.

Why would retailers be interested in buying the brand now as opposed to, say, two years ago?That’s a great question. It’s a totally different product. The fit, construction and materials have all been improved and upgraded. It’s more comfortable. The design is better. We have really looked at the essence of the brand and what it stands for, making sure what is made fits the DNA of the brand. It’s not just a label slapped inside a shoe. The part-ners involved are also better. Genesco and G-III both really get into this whole process, and we are building better shoes as a result. Customers who try on a pair of G.H. Bass will notice right away the better quality and improved comfort aspects.

How has the reception been so far from retailers?It’s been great. Genesco has had a pretty strong launch. They are in the stores that they want to be and, in some cases, they’ve even turned down some doors. What is amazing about this brand is getting a shot has not been that hard. Everybody knows it and they want to give it a chance. But the debut in stores was just in February. We’re talking one month, so it’s still early.

What makes G.H. Bass’s heritage special as compared to the many other brands of late that are touting their rich heritages? In fact, if I had a dime for every brand that claims to possess a rich heritage, I’d have a lot of dimes.Ok, we’re not going to use the word heritage anymore [laughs]. That aside, our positioning is pretty easy. A lot of people already know our story. It’s not like we’re starting from nowhere and we have to tell everybody that we stand for American heritage. That’s already known. And with so many points of contact within the brand, little by little we can seed what’s in the archives into the market and tell the story of G.H. Bass and show everyone that the brand is an iconic, authentic American heritage brand. We’re also not asking retailers to introduce an item that’s so crazy. The Weejuns, for example, are a wardrobe staple. But from there we can expand into new products so long as we succeed in our ability to get product placed that fits, feels and looks better, and hopefully sells better.

What is the breakdown between archives and new styles?The archives are a tricky thing. It’s rich and everybody loves to talk about it, but I don’t want to get stuck

O&A

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in the archives. The trick is to draw inspiration from it and then move forward. We look at our old catalogs all the time and ask ourselves how can we update certain styles and make them relevant today? So to answer your question of how much of it is going to be new: As much as possible. As our business grows, we’re going to expand everything we can. But the balance is a tough question to answer exactly. It depends on what the opportunities are.

What is the brand’s elasticity—how broad a product selection are we talking about? Loafers, boots, boating shoes, our Compass canvas sneaker…I think we can go pretty far. Now I don’t think we can make baseball cleats, and if you look into our archives you can almost see too much. For example, there was a time when G.H. Bass outfitted the U.S. Ski Team, and we also used to make golf shoes. That’s probably not going to happen again, but we did do it once.

You mention the Compass style. Will G.H. Bass attempt to play in the athleisure arena at all? My goal is to stay true to the brand’s DNA. Who knows what the future holds, but the relaunch is about trying to tell our story again and I’d like to stay as true to that as possible. And athleisure is

not what the brand is about. In fact, Bass started out as a service brand, making workwear and boots. I think that is more in the spirit of the Bass DNA than athleisure. Actually, there’s two parts to this one great brand. There’s the work and outdoors aspect that saw adventurers and heroes like Charles Lindbergh wear G.H. Bass when he flew the inaugural flight over the Atlantic Ocean and Admiral Richard Byrd, who wore our boots during his North Pole expedition. The U.S. Army’s 101st Mountain Division also wore Bass boots in WWII during mountain fighting. Then, all of a sudden, in 1936, the Weejun was introduced and the brand developed this preppy Ivy League strain.

Who is the G.H. Bass customer today, and who are you looking to reach going forward?Today, the customer is still split 50-50 between men’s and women’s. Specifically, the Weejuns has a hipster following of late but it also continues to attract core consumers, which I love. Overall, the Bass customer tends to be a pretty practical person. They are somebody who wants a versatile core shoe or boot style that they can depend on. Along those lines, we exhibited for the first time at the recent Outdoor Retailer show where we

showcased the clothing and footwear in one big setting. The response was great and it confirmed how the brand has much broader offering and potential customer base than what it is mostly known for.

Where do you see G.H. Bass in five years?I see us as a true lifestyle brand that is well known in the marketplace. We’re fully committed to build-ing the business. It’s at the top of our priorities and we’ll do what we can to make it right. Along those lines, I’d would love to have a couple of flag-ships open in the next two years. We’re looking at space and refining the concept to get it right. This is a big year to see how the brand resonates and how we’ll roll it out going forward. In five years, this should be close to a $1 billion lifestyle brand. There’s a lot of blocking and tackling that still needs to be done, like continuing to make bet-ter products, enhancing the store environments further and telling the world about the brand. If we do all of that successfully, I’m confidant we’ll capture more sales.

Speaking of the ability to capture sales, what’s your assessment of U.S. retail market right now? Whether it’s footwear or apparel, obviously >41

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18 footwearplusmagazine.com • arpil/may 2016

It Goes DEFINING OUTDOOR: FALL ’16

HE FACT THAT the comfort catego-ry exists is a direct result of so many other shoe styles being uncomfortable due to inherent design, construction and material flaws and limitations. Historically, the consumer expec-

tation has been to accept various degrees of dis-comfort with regards to a lot of their footwear choices. (Remember when break-in periods were an acceptable industry standard?)

But along came the comfort category, feed-ing off a growing desire among consumers to be more comfortable physically and emotional-ly. It was a relatively easy sale at first, as many consumers had been in such discomfort that the looks of these new “comfort” shoes didn’t real-ly matter. They were just thrilled to be pain-free at last! So the name of the category became the key point of differentiation in the marketplace. It was the reason for the purchase. And while the category’s lack of style became its Achilles Heel in terms of general perception, the reality is tremendous strides have been made in terms of looks, particularly over the past few years. No longer is it an either/or shopping scenario. The consumer expectation, in fact, has done a com-plete flip. Thanks in a large part to the success of comfort brands, shoes are expected to feel good and look great right out of the box.

So why bother to continue to call the catego-ry comfort, especially if the term is now more fashion stigma than notable product attribute? Many industry experts argue the word itself puts limitations on the category’s broader appeal and potential. Indeed, the comfort category at pres-ent is at a crossroads: On the one hand, it may appear risky to let go of what brought it to the dance, but on the other, it may very well be time to take the next steps in evolution.

“No consumer wants a shoe that feels comfort-able and looks comfortable, if you know what I mean,” opines Jim Salzano, CEO of Easy Spirit. “They want a shoe that feels comfortable and looks beautiful.” He cites the tremendous influ-ence of athletic companies as having conditioned consumers to expect that level of comfort all the time. “Comfort is simply a requirement now,” he says, adding, “I would imagine in a few years we are not even going to talk about ‘comfort’ shoes, because it’s just going to be everywhere.”

Now to the extent that comfort has become a dirty word possibly, Salzano believes it’s more of a limitation. “It doesn’t provide the opportuni-ty for greater awareness that’s out there for Easy Spirit,” he says. “It limits the imagination of the consumer. We’re a footwear company, we want the comfort to be felt but not seen, and we’re spend-ing a lot of time on working on great aesthetics

and silhouettes to figure out ways to make shoes that have always forced women to compromise style for comfort.”

Bob Infantino, CEO of The Rockport Company, offers a similar seamless definition of com-fort today. “Comfort means not having to think about being comfortable,” he says. “When I wear a shoe, pants, a watch—any accessory or apparel item—I expect to put it on and not think about it again until I take it off at the end of the day.” This expectation, Infantino adds, extends far beyond the actual product itself. “My interaction with a brand needs to make me feel comfortable from start to finish, from the way the brand incorporates current fashion trends into their products, to the way the product fits, to the price point,” he says.

Tracy Smith, president of U.S. operations for Geox, agrees the definition of comfort has become much broader in scope. “Comfort used to just mean padding,” he notes. “It’s much more than that now—it’s holistic and it also involves versa-tility, quality and price-value.” Smith offers the interesting analogy of how restaurants have been evolving of late. “For many years, it was about over-the-top prices, crazy eclectic food combi-nations and a snotty waitstaff,” he says. “Now the trend is farm-to-table, the quality of ingredients, health and wellness, and a more casual and com-fortable atmosphere.” Similarly, what it means

T

WithoutHas the comfort footwear category finally reached a

point in its evolution where the descriptive is no longer even warranted? Leading executives offer their take on

the current state of the market, how they define comfort and where it may all be headed. By Greg Dutter

SayingGeox

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to be comfortable in one’s shoes has expand-ed beyond just the feel to include aspects like look, versatility and value. It’s not just about a designer label anymore—that’s not nearly enough. Being comfortable on many levels is what’s really in style today.

“The big market shift over the past two to three years is simply that comfort has become fashion,” says David Kahan, CEO of Birkenstock USA. (The classic comfort brand’s recent run of catwalk impersonations of several of its most popular designs as well as ‘It’ status among the fashion elite verifies that shift.) Kahan believes the shift has become so ubiquitous that con-sumers are now demanding comfort in all styles. “The consumer is now seeking comfort features in what were previously only fashion silhouettes,” he notes. “It has forced comfort brands like Birkenstock to meet the demand.” He cites the brand’s Stowe moto and Sarnia slouch boots as two examples for Fall ’16. “The look is fantastic and it incorporates our footbed, which yields a supreme comfort experience,” he says, adding, “This is the Holy Grail—the benefits of a Birkenstock sandal built into a boot or a shoe.”

Gary Champion, president of Clarks Americas, defines comfort as the ability to provide the unexpected. “It’s about designing products that attract women in a fashion sense and give her the unexpected comfort underfoot,” he says, adding it’s not just about cushioning. “It’s about contoured footbeds, arch support, materials and the proper engineering to make lasts measurements and toe shapes correctly to avoid fit problems like too much pressure on the forefoot,” he explains. But those are tech-nical details that she doesn’t necessarily want to have to understand, Champion adds. “When she steps into the shoe, it’s about discovering that unexpected comfort,” he says. “That, ‘Wow, I didn’t expect that shoe to look this good and be this comfortable.’”

Just Don’t Call It ComfortWhile many leading comfort brands contin-ue to up the fashion quotient, the actual com-fort aspects are implied and not necessarily advertised. It represents a definite shift in brand positioning.

For example, Smith says the game plan at Geox is to avoid being viewed as what defined being a comfort brand five years ago. “We have to be much more than that,” he says. “It has to be about innovation, wellness, quality, versa-tility and ease of use—something that hope-fully improves your day/life and makes things a little easier.” The brand’s Nebula collection

for Fall ’16, he believes, is the perfect exam-ple. “It’s the ultimate in terms of breathability, lightweight, comfortable fit and quality pack-aged in a trend-right and versatile sport-casu-al design. You don’t have to think about it too much—just put it on and head for the plane, the museum, lunch, whatever.”

Infantino points to Rockport’s Total Motion Kalila cutout shootie as an example where the fashion aspects do the selling and the comfort is just there. “The shoe plays off of the caged trend that’s so popular right now,” he says. “We gave it a mid-height heel, foam-backed lining and a back zip for easy in and out, making it a great style for women to wear out to dinner or just as easily to a holiday party.” To that versa-tility angle, Infantino believes it’s a must with today’s shoppers. “Our customers are looking for a shoe that incorporates the latest trends, colorways and embellishments, and has the technology necessary to keep them comfort-able throughout the day,” he offers. “The mod-ern day consumer, as compared to five years ago, is looking for a single shoe that offers ver-satility, transitioning seamlessly from morn-ings at the office to nights out on the town.”

The fact that comfort has become so ubiq-uitous and, as a result, watered down some-what by knockoffs has Steve Lax, CEO of Naot, focusing on the Israeli-made brand’s quality and authenticity as a point of differentiation. “We still use Italian leathers, European findings for everything, our insoles are made in Europe, and we use quality labor in our own factories, and we have our own designers,” he says. In that sense, Lax believes you get what you pay for. “Euro comfort, which had been this pure bas-tion of legitimate comfort design, is not what it once was,” he says. “Most of those companies have gone off-shore in their production, so they are now Euro-designed shoes made by people in Third World countries getting paid 50 cents an hour. So the quality of comfort, as a general rule, has gone way down.” In addition to offer-ing better quality and comfort for the end-user, Lax believes Naot is simply a better investment for retailers. “The markup for cheap shoes is not enough,” he says. “Retailers today need to be doing X amount of dollars per transaction or they will not be able to pay their rent.”

The Athleisure EffectThe biggest impact of late on the comfort cate-gory is the athleisure trend. It is not only forcing these brands to up their game on incorporat-ing lightweight cushioning technologies, but also to break free from their monochromatic “brown shoe” past.

Easy Spirit

Clarks

Naot

Birkenstock

>43



A N O T E T O M Y Y O U N G E R S E L F

STANDING FIRMMark Jubelirer, president of Reyers Shoe Store in Sharon, PA, reflects on

his decision to remodel and remain in his beloved steel town.

I AM CONSIDERABLY older now and (maybe) wiser, for I have seen the future.

There will come a time at the beginning of the new century when you’ll stand at a crossroads. A decision will be in the offing, and the choice—as well as the responsibility—will be yours alone.

The situation will seem straightforward enough: You and your brother (Stephen) will be considering a makeover for the busi-ness. A facelift. A remodel. Simple. Okay.

You’ll call the guy who remodeled your store the last time—for a reasonable price and a job well done. He’s widely respected and recommended in the industry, and still open for business. You’ll decide to have him come up, hoping he will again be able to give you guidance regarding updated display methods, colorations, traffic flow, signage and the like—everything the business needs.

The company representative will fly in from North Carolina and check into a local motel the night before the appointment. He’ll rent a car and take a ride around the area to see whether anything has changed since the last time he visited. At the appointed time he’ll show up, you’ll greet him at your front door and he’ll say, “Get the hell out.”

“Whaddya mean?” you’ll ask.“Get out. Move,” he’ll snap. “Don’t you want to even come in and look around?” you’ll

offer politely.“Not necessary,” he’ll reply. “I’ve seen enough already. If you’re

serious about improving your business, then shut it down. Get out

of Sharon, Pennsylvania. Open up somewhere else.”Wait, what? You’ll feel like a bucket of icy water has been

thrown in your face. This guy was supposed to come here, look around the store and make appropriate recommendations. The expectation was that you’d agree on a plan, work would get done and you’d pay the invoice. Done deal.

Instead, he’s proposed that you move to Raleigh/Durham, North Carolina. Naturally, you think. He’s familiar with the area; he lives there. Sure, it’s nice. Growing population. Upscale demographic. Golf almost year-round. God’s country. All good. Except you’d be starting over! After a century doing business in your precious little steel town, to abandon all of your customers and employees, and to dissolve a multimillion-dollar shoe business seems at least counterintuitive to you. It might just be crazy. Besides, might the ghosts of your forebears roll in their graves?

So instead of taking this man’s advice, you’ll decide to remodel your store in Sharon and get what you get. Oh, sure, your store will be more gorgeous than ever. But will you be doing more busi-ness or less because of the decision? You’ll never be sure whether that’s the only metric to go by or even the most important one. You’ll try to convince yourself it’s not. And it will haunt you even as your business continues to garner the occasional award for good service and to enjoy accolades from those who know you well. Your customers will remain ever loyal and tell you how much they need you all of the time.

Still, the question will nag at you relentlessly until, finally, it’ll be springtime and nice enough outside to tee it up once again.

Dear Mark,

GDS-ONLINE.COM

NEW: TUES THUR

26 28 JUL 2016

DÜSSELDORF, GERMANY

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GENTLEWOMEN

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T R A D I T I O N A L M E N ’ S OX F O R D S F I T F O R A L A DY.

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1. Clarks 2. Waldläufer 3. Bruno Magli 4. Restricted 5. Summit by White Mountain 6. Pikolinos 7. Täos

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BOOK SMART

Traditional men’s oxfords fit for a lady.

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Desert DelightsThe desert boot, a menswear staple, gets a fresh makeover for fall.

1. Born 2. Wolky 3. Naot 4. Rockport 5. Birkenstock 6. Bluprint 7. Clarks 8. Ecco 9. Geox

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P L AT F O R M S O L E S W I T H E D G Y C U T O U T S M A R K A N E W E R A O F L I G H T W E I G H T, C O M F O R TA B L E A N D B O L D D E S I G N .

P h o t o g r a p h y b y J o s e p h P l u c h i n o

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Aska fur and suede boot, Bernie Mev tote, sweater by Brynja Skjaldar worn over stylist’s

own jacket and Pleasure Principle dress, Mundi leggings, necklace and earrings by Laruicci.

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Mixed-material boots by Claetyn Wood, Kowtow

turtleneck under Jose Duran Jacket, chainmail from Top Vintage, rings by Laruicci.

Opposite: Bernie Mevwedge booties, fur vest from

Barneys worn over vintage army jacket, pants by Rick

Owens, choker by Chromat, Laruicci earrings.



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Geox double-gore Chelsea boot and Naot wedge Mary Jane. Opposite: Thierry Rabotin combat boot, Shoplifter dress with Splendid leggings, choker and bracelets by Sergio Rossi, House of Topper earrings.




Gabor combat boots, Comme des Garcons jacket over Topshop shirt, Faith Connexion pants, choker by Jean Paul Gaultier, Larucci bracelet and ring. Opposite: Dromedaris biker boots, Chromat latex coat over Alo Yoga top, Alexander McQueen leggings, Laruicci necklace.

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Clockwise from top: Easy Spirit slip-on loafer, metallic oxford by Wolky, Fly London zipper bootie. Opposite: Spring Step creepers, Rag and Bone dress under Harrison Morgan jacket, leather harness by Alonzo,

leggings from Agnieszka Maritejah, Aqua earrings; nose ring, necklaces and ring by Larucci; vintage bracelets. Fashion Editor: Ann Loynd; stylists: Edda Gudmundsdottir and Brynja Skjaldardottir; hair and makeup:

Abraham Sprinkle/Next Artists; model: Adriana M./Muse Management.



LIKE MANY LITTLE girls at the age of nine, Tracey Neuls enjoyed playing dress-up with her mother’s shoe collection. Neuls, however, took it a step further by crafting a makeshift pair of pumps of her own from cereal boxes and paper towel rolls that she then proceeded to sport around town. You might say not much has changed since, except now the shoe designer’s material bank includes leather, linen, faux snake-skin and pony hair. And as with her cereal

box creations, individuality reigns. Neuls works in plasticine to create each new shoe mold, a practice she believes brings out her “childlike creativity.”

Now making a push to reach American consumers, Neuls launched her eponymous line in London 15 years ago, moving to the U.K. from Canada in search of what she perceived as “English individuality.” “I quickly learned that true individuality isn’t a nationality or a location, but it is within,” she offers. “And this was my starting point to create truly unique and creative shoes that weren’t trend-driven but comfortable and timeless.”

Offbeat characteristics include toe-shaped lasts, mid-heels with protruding spheres and architectural (but always comfortable) sole shapes. “I view footwear more like good furniture design,” says the self-proclaimed designer’s designer. “It needs to suit the personality of the wearer, be aesthetic yet comfortable and age well.” —Ann Loynd

What do your designs offer American women? American ladies are strong and confident. They run a full life, juggling work, family and friends. I would love to bring them footwear that has a unique personal statement that they can wear from morning to night. We have one particular New York customer who makes a pilgrimage to our shop every time she is in London. She always has fabulous stories about the amount of women who stop her in the street or on the metro to tell her how great our shoes are on her. It makes her feel good and that, ultimately, is what fashion is about.

Who is your core customer? Those in creative industries are our big customers—from artists like Tracey Emin to actresses like Kate Winslet to musicians like Goldfrapp to my design hero, Rei Kawakubo of Comme des Garcons. They wear our shoes regularly. However, the general commonality is that all of our ladies are E

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strong characters with a lot of personal-ity. I love to see mothers and daughters come in and shop together as if there is no age divide.

What is the theme of your Fall ’16 collec-tion? Since we’re 15 years into making shoes, I wanted to celebrate our individuality and timeless designs. Our very first last shape hinted at a toe silhouette. The shape has been moved on slightly, and we’re calling it our sweetheart range. Also, this winter we launched our new flat rubber sole, which is quite chunky and architectural with strong lines. It’s super lightweight and offers an alternative to trainers.

What’s your design signature? Instead of using design details to baffle the wearer, we like to have it be their little secret. For Fall ’16, we have molded a two-part heel that is rather Brancusi in shape. I liken our shoes to a painting you fall more and more in love with as time passes and you notice extra details you didn’t in the first place. A shoe is like a sculpture to me—it

should be interesting from every angle.

Where do you look for inspiration? I don’t look for inspiration. I’m more like a sponge. When it comes time to produce a collection, I can be wrung out and it all comes together. Inspiration is odd things like lipstick-stained cigarettes, geometry or tiled rooftops. I am not one to be inspired by fantasy.

What are the biggest challenges facing footwear designers today? Footwear is quite a hidden art. A lot of what goes into a shoe can’t be seen in terms of internal components and leather. This is where the cheaper brands scrimp, and this is also where you begin to get problems with fit that lead to foot aches and pains. I worry that this new generation will not know what a well-fitting, comfortable shoe feels like as price becomes more important than the fundamentals of a comfortable shoe.

What is your motto? Good design is something you feel as well as you see.

E D I T O R ’ S P I C K S

DESIGNER CHAT

T R A C E Y N E U L S

P O N Y TA L E S Depending on the shade, pony hair adds Western

f lair or notes of punkish rebel l ion.

All Black

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ON ONE HAND, consumers are moving en masse to digital plat-forms (clearly indicated by the dip in newspaper, terrestrial radio and network TV audiences). However, the increasingly intrusive nature of digital advertising is generating a backlash from shoppers who just want it to stop. Thus, the exploding popularity of ad-block-ing software—forbes.com recently cited that 200 million people use such technologies worldwide (45 million in the U.S. alone.) And, according to Anatole Paine, software engineer at marketing plat-form Boomtrain, their use is likely to steadily increase.

These ads are not just a nuisance; they significantly slow down a page’s load time and, for mobile, use more data which means unwant-ed ads can hike up phone bills. It begs the question: Should retailers invest in digital advertising that many consumers are actively block-ing? When done poorly, Garrett Breton, vice president of merchan-dise and marketing for Comfort One Shoes, affirms the answer is no. Paine adds that the software is usually free and can be installed with a simple click.

Some websites have restricted access to content if users have an ad-blocker on, but others are seeking alternatives. One of the best ways to prevent being blocked, Paine says, is by creating user-friendly ads.

When thoughtfully execut-ed, Breton confirms digi-tal advertising can achieve the desired effect. “Like a hammer can be used to build a home or knock someone in the head, dig-ital advertising can build your business or send peo-ple running,” he says.

Case in point: Comfort One Shoes eschews intru-sive videos and instead

focuses on reaching customers who are actually interested. The chain uses a marketing service that delivers ads to cell phones when cli-ents bring up shopping apps in certain locations. “In general, if you are seeing our ad it is because you expressed an interest in us or the products we carry,” Breton says. “In many cases, you have followed us or gone to our website.”

Paine recommends that digital ads be obsolete of flash and sound, and to avoid the use of pop-up boxes with tiny, hard-to-click exit signs. Generally, he adds, retailers should conduct A/B testing to see if conversion rates are better. Breton advises to keep a certain amount of budget free to test many forms of marketing to prevent getting stuck in something less effective. “Digital advertising has giant money pits that can be wasteful and fraudulent,” he cautions. “We track the effectiveness of every piece of digital marketing we do and use the ROI to decide where we put our funds.”

Meghan Cleary, founder of Meghan Says shoes, believes retailers need to figure out who their customer is in order to reach them most effectively. Social media and direct emails are key, as are events. “For big retailers, I just can’t emphasize that enough,” she says. “People are craving real interaction, and events are a perfect way to give it to them.” —Lauren Olsen.

Fair Warning

SOME BEGIN WORKING in an indus-try because of an interest developed in college, a childhood hobby-turned-skil or the promise of glitz, glamour and money. But Steven Rueda, vice president and buyer at Turnpike Comfort Footwear in Flushing, NY, grew up in the biz. “My brother and I have been working sum-mers and weekends in my father’s cus-tom shoe and repair shop since we were 10,” he says. His father, a second gener-ation shoemaker, was doing all of the custom work for Sternberg & Sons, a premier comfort retailer in Queens, NY, when Jerome Sternberg approached him in 1979 with the idea of merging busi-nesses. Fresh out of college, Rueda came aboard. “Before that, I had no buying experience,” he quips.

Turnpike Comfort Footwear was strat-egized to become the New York area’s premier comfort shoe facility, and the store was an instant success. “Clients not only received the attention of one of the most experienced shoe fitters in the city, but also had access to the best cus-tom work available right on the premis-es,” says Rueda. Today, he runs the store with his brother, Ernest, and they con-tinue to uphold the tradition of ethical and dedicated service.

The store’s website, turnpikeshoes.com, became shop-friendly in 2005 and makes up for about 7 percent of total sales. But a third version of the website, launched in March, has Rueda expecting an increase in online traffic from existing and new local customers looking for custom and pedorthic services. He predicts the store’s online division will continue to grow and complement the in-store experience, but will never replace it entirely. The shop remains the only fully- accredited

Pedorthic Footwear Association facility in the area, Rueda adds. —L.O.

What are some of your top-selling brands online? Mainly Waldlaufer, the brand my wholesale company distrib-utes. I have the biggest selection in the U.S., along with exclusive styles I bring in from Germany. Otherwise, no one is com-ing to my site to buy major brands—they go to Amazon or the vendor’s own site.

What are some of your most popular styles? Without being biased, the Bliss dynamic rocker sole from Waldlaufer. Plantar fasciitis is probably the lead-ing foot ailment we see, and this type of supportive rocker sole shoe is perfect for that. The Walk Easy from SAS works in a very similar way. The Pichu by Wolky is super comfortable and is selling well in all colors, as is Beautifeel’s Edyta. Some evening shoes I import from Spain called Juan Maestre fit incredibly on wide feet are also selling well.

What are key trends for Fall ’16? I still see a lot of short boots going forward. Athletically infused comfort shoes (ath-leisure) is very big in Europe, and I see it growing here.

What is your first footwear-related memory? I remember going to a small regional Pedorthic Footwear meeting in New York and meeting icons in the industry like the late Matty Henderson of Henderson Shoes and Robert Schwartz of Eneslow. I learned a lot from these men, my father’s partner and my father.

What is your guiding rule as a buyer? Buy what sells, not what I like.

Steven RuedaBUYER CHAT

Turnpike Comfort Footwear

The increasing use of ad-blocking devices presents a dilemma for retailers.

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WHAT DO YOU get when you mix 46 years of brand equity with one of the industry’s top children’s licensors? A relaunch that offers cutting-edge technol-ogy packaged with sophisticated design at an accessible price under a name rich in authenticity and familiarity. At least, that’s what Vida Brands is aim-ing to deliver with its reintroduction of Step & Stride for Fall ’16. “Previously, Step & Stride’s mission was ‘fashion shoes for babies,’ and it was always about creating great shoes at a great price,” explains Michelle Hinsvark, marketing director for Vida Shoes, Kids Division. “We felt there was a void in the market for great shoes with a great perspective at a great price.”

Step & Stride’s name-recognition factor and fashion-for-the-masses aesthetic is backed by Vida’s innovative technologies and design updates for the contem-porary consumer. “I don’t think you’re going to find a brand that has so much detail for kids, whether it’s the moisture-wicking technology or the cushion-ing comfort,” Hinsvark notes. “And when you start looking at the product and how it’s crafted, you can see hand-stitched details, or the zippers made from our own molds.” Plus, with Vida’s fast turnaround times, Step & Stride can reflect up-to-the-moment trends across a breadth of categories in boys and girls. “We didn’t want to be conservative, so we launched in all major categories—dress, casual boots and athletics for boys and girls, and we also have baby shoes,” she says. “We wanted to look at kids overall and create the next go-to brand, and we thought the best way was to come with a full assortment.” That assortment spans sizes 3 to 6 for baby and 6 to 12 for toddler boys and girls—all $44 and under suggested retail.

Under the trend-right packaging, the shoes’ mechanics follow a three-pronged approach: wellness, comfort and fit. Those benefits, respectively, include a flex-ible outsole and OrthoLite’s moisture-wicking dual-density insoles that are also removable to offer double the width. Vida also honored Step & Stride’s history with a full array of classics, including girls’ Mary Janes and mini-me dress styles for boys. “We’re not trying to make overly trendy, disposable shoes,” notes Vida Shoes Design Director Luis Gonzalez. “We’re trying to make beautiful shoes that are functional, but look current and fun.” That approach, he says, was well received by buyers at the recent round of trade shows.

As for distribution plans, Hinsvark is looking for quality over quantity. “It’s easy to get up to a certain amount of SKUs, but we’re looking for people who will be true partners with us,” she says. Step & Stride is targeting specialty and independent retailers and high-end department stores that will appreciate the brand’s value. “We see longevity with this brand and are going to continue to push forward,” Hinsvark adds. —Ann Loynd

DESPITE A WARM winter and a slowdown in sheepskin boot sales, John Pierce, president of Bearpaw, believes the kid’s market is ripe for growth for the brand. To help facilitate that growth, Bearpaw has expanded its selection, reduced the price of core styles by $10 (to $49.99 retail) and hired a new design-er with experience in the juniors’ market to provide a more colorful, playful and kid-specific assortment.

So far so good, as Pierce reports its retail partners are on board with the com-pany’s latest efforts. Of course, it hasn’t hurt that Pierce is a firm believer in being completely upfront in its plans, regularly soliciting feedback from buyers. “I firmly believe in listening to retailers,” he says. “If we know what their needs are and how they operate, it will make things easier for us as we move forward. You can’t be so arrogant that you think you know everything.”

Take, for example, the advice Famous Footwear buyers suggested about includ-ing a side zipper on Bearpaw’s classic Emma boot in the toddler size range. The aim was to make it easier for moms to put the shoe on and off. Pierce credits the chain’s buyers for being adamant on including that user-friendly feature. “We added a zipper for them only in 2015, and we have incorporated it com-pany-wide for 2016,” he says.

Pierce says Bearpaw is putting more focus on the kid’s category because it has experienced some success of late in that segment. “It used to be 14 percent of our total business, but now it’s closer to 18 percent,” he reports. “As or total revenues grow, it’s becoming more important.” Pierce notes that 60 percent of sales on bearpaw.com came from classic styles, and 40 percent came from fashion boot purchases. “That’s much closer than it was in years past, when it was more like 75/25,” he says. “The fashion element is something moms are looking for, whether it’s cute bows, embroidery, appliques or glitter,” he adds.

That’s where new designer, Denise LeMons, has come into play. Since com-ing aboard last March, the veteran of Chinese Laundry and Mia Shoes has pro-vided a much-needed perspective. Pierce notes that the person who ran the department previously built a women’s line and took down whatever worked into kids. “You can’t do that,” he says. And while there’s still plenty of crossover between women’s and kid’s styles, Bearpaw has introduced new silhouettes spe-cifically for this market, despite the sizing challenges that come with it. “Kids are growing so fast today—some girls are in women’s sizes by the fourth grade,” Pierce notes. “It’s crazy how quick they’re vacating kid’s sizes. But you have to remember that they’re still little girls. And not all moms want their kids to look like mommy, and not all moms want their kids to grow up so fast. You have to keep that in mind and make sure you’re offering something that’s kid-friendly.”

To address this issue, Bearpaw has also changed its size runs. “Before, our toddler runs were 5 to 10 and youth runs 11 to 4,” Pierce explains. “We eliminated the sizes 5 and 6 in toddler, because it seemed like retailers were always stuck with the smaller sizes. And by taking our toddler sizes up to 7 to 12 and our youth sizes up to a 13 to 5, we’re saving mom a few extra dol-lars a year. —Audrey Goodson Kingo


U P C L O S E K I D S

Vida Shoes revives Step & Stride’s half-century heritage.

Stepping Up

Hear Us Roar

Bearpaw offers an expanded,

category-specific collection.

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continued from page 17retail is changing and challenging right now. We’re in this global shift, but we just have to find more creative ways to reach the customer. People are still going to to buy shoes. It’s just making sure that they are going to buy our shoes and being where they shop. You’ve got to go where the customer is. It’s like what Wayne Gretzky said: “Go to where the puck is going to be.” And we want to get to where the customer is going to be and be there with great product.

Where, exactly, is that customer going to be?Obviously, a lot of them are going online. That is an incredibly important channel. It’s our place to tell the story in a full-price setting. We want to make sure that they come to our site or our retail partners’ sites.

What can traditional shoe stores do to remain relevant amid this online shopping shift?You’ve got to have the right selection and quality, because I think it’s harder to fool the customer today. You also have to really enhance the in-store experience and make sure that you are offering the customer something that resonates. In-store exclusives, for example. There are a lot of different ideas that can be tested. Nobody knows the exact answer right now, but this shift requires one to be very innovative, have the right selection and stand for something. If you do, I think that matters to the consumer. We still believe in the traditional store concept. We have a lot of stores, and we are constantly reviewing the assortment to make sure that it’s right and not just a shotgun approach.

What might the shoe store look like in 10 years?I don’t know. Maybe virtual. I think there will be a lot of creative technol-ogy solutions introduced in stores in the coming years. It’s fascinating and I think we’re just in the middle of a whole new way of thinking. For example, we’re not just a shoe store; our stores are shoes and clothing. It’s a complete lifestyle presentation. We’re also embracing new technologies all the time as well as different ways of reaching customers. Retail is always changing, and we have to adapt to those changes as best we can.

Is G-III looking to acquire more footwear brands?Yes, we’re always looking for opportunities. And now that we understand footwear better, we are looking for acquisitions. Now I can’t say what we are exactly looking for, but we believe we have a reason to be at the table.

Might there be advantages involving this relaunch, possibly, to having not been a footwear company—no preconceived notions or expecta-tions, for example?I think that’s been a big part of it. Everybody says footwear is so tough. But I was in a factory the day after we acquired the brand and I could see the raw materials, labor, yield, import costs, etc. I could understand, basically, what it entailed, and there was nothing that I thought was too hard to conquer. G-III knows how to source many different types of products and has been doing so for decades. We started in leather coats and from there expanded into dresses, suits, sportswear, performance wear, swimwear and retail. We have amazing sourcing offices around the world that know how to find good factories and learn the respective crafts. So we look at footwear for what it is: something that needs to be sourced and delivered. It really is a craft, and as a leather outerwear company at our core, we understand and appreciate the art of cutting, assembling and making sure each item is made right. There is a real thought process behind it. It’s not just cutting it and throwing it together.

What do you love most about your job?Seeing the result. Building something is a lot of fun. You start with something you believe has a lot of potential, you put the puzzle together, and then seeing the results is a lot of fun. That’s been the favorite part of my day for the past year. •

O&A

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W H A T ’ S S E L L I N G Comfort Specialły

CHULER SHOES, A fourth-generation, family-run, 10-store comfort specialty chain located in the Minneapolis, MN, area, is the American dream come true. Founded in 1889 by Austrian shoe repairman Vincent Schuler, the family has adapted, evolved and expanded its business over the span of 127 years and counting. John Schuler, the founder’s great

nephew, is currently at the helm with children and grandchildren poised to keep its family shoe retail tradition running for decades to come.

This sort of generational longevity in business is quite rare today. And despite economic ups and downs, wacky weather patterns that can disrupt even the best-laid inventory plans and numerous competitors, Schuler Shoes has stuck to its business basics and carved out a meaningful niche. Specifically, the chain’s extensive comfort merchandise mix coupled with top-notch service continues to be the basis of its success. The selection includes a Who’s Who of leading players (New Balance, Clarks, Dansko, Birkenstock, Merrell, Ugg and Taos, to cite a few of the 100-some labels customers can choose from) and many of which are available in a wide range of sizes and widths.

While providing an unparalleled fit remains paramount, Schuler notes the effort of late has been to upgrade the chain’s style quotient because the days of sacrificing style for comfort are over. Consumers today demand both. “We are looking for brands—and fortunately there are more today than there were five years ago—that are getting on the fashion bandwag-on,” he says. “There are options for stylish, fun, exciting shoes that are also comfortable. That’s expanded our business a bunch.”

A traditional sit-and-fit operation, Schuler Shoes features well-edited dis-plays in their spacious stores (they average about 9,000 square feet). The staff measures both feet of every customer and discuss the wants, needs and style preferences before bringing out an array of options. Schuler believes this thorough, service-first approach performed by expertly trained sales-people has been and will continue to be a unique draw up against online dealers. “You can’t experience what we do in store on the Internet,” he con-firms. —Ann Loynd

How’s business? November through January was a tough quarter. Our margins were hurt because we had a ton of boots and couldn’t sell them because we had so little snow. We ended up putting a lot of them on sale in early December. But February was very positive, and we were ahead in March. Fortunately, we’ve had good weather. When it’s nice, we have a good day.

Who is your core customer? I’m hesitant to put an age on our demographic. Once people start getting concerned about their feet and about getting a proper fit, they become our customer. It might happen when they’re 16 or when they’re 60. Overall, our customers are generally 35-plus in age. That’s our focus as far as our marketing is concerned, which is aimed at people who will appreciate what we do and how we do it. It’s not that I don’t want a younger customer, but a lot of times they don’t value what we’re about, and they think our shoes are too expensive. Besides, at their age, their feet don’t hurt!

What are some of your best-selling brands? New Balance is our top seller. We do very well with Clarks, Dansko, Keen, Merrell, Birkenstock,

Finn Comfort and Ecco, as well. And Smartwool socks. It’s amazing how big of a business socks have become. We’re doing well with Ugg, too. It was a tough year for them with the warm winter, but it’s still a viable brand for us.

What are the best new brands you’ve added into your mix recently? Taos has been very good, and Alegria has been doing well. We’ve added men’s styles with regards to the latter and have gotten a favorable response. Naot has also been a very good brand for us and is growing. We’ve added men’s there, as well. We’re also having good results with Earth and Earthies.

You mentioned how you’ve expanded your men’s offering. Is that a growing segment for you? We’ve had a really good response to more ‘fun’ men’s styles in general. Samuel Hubbard, for example. White bottoms, a lot of color, oxford slip-ons—they’ve all been doing surprisingly well. It’s all helped add some excitement and interest to our men’s business.

Is there anything unique about your customer base? There are similar stores in other parts of the country with a similar customer base. Our cus-tomer says, ‘Hey, I’ve got something going on here. Can you help me out?’ Maybe their feet are two different sizes, or maybe they have bunions or ham-mertoes. We can’t diagnose it, but if their doctor says they have neuroma [pinched nerve], for example, we know what kinds of shoes to recommend.

What’s the biggest problem facing your business, and what are you doing to address it? The Internet. We’re facing more and more competi-tion—like the increasing amount of vendors selling direct to the consumer online. That affects margins. Fortunately, more brands are implementing MAP pricing policies, which I love. The vendors are looking to eliminate that person selling shoes out of their garage. We can’t compete with that.

How can you compete? Customer service. We believe people buy on emo-tion. We’ve got to love customers to death so they don’t focus on a price that may be $5 more than someone offering the same item online.

B u r l i n g t o n , V TS C H U L E R S H O E S

M a p l e G r o v e , M N

S

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“That’s why Euro comfort with the oblique toe is a lot tougher sell nowadays,” Champion says, noting sporty design aspects like white soles and colorful knit uppers and laces are more prevalent. But, for Clarks, it’s not about trying to become a sneaker company—a fool’s errand in a space dominated by mega-brands. “It’s about interpreting the DNA of that look in a more casual lifestyle,” Champion says. Enter the brand’s Cloud Steppers collection, first introduced this Fall. The line features lightweight EVA soles with a little wedge, 3-millimeter thick Memory Foam footbed and sporty uppers. “It’s taking Skechers GoWalk and Nike Free into a casual realm,” Champion describes, adding, “They are blowing off the shelves, and we’ll sell close to three million pairs this year.”

Lax reports a similar athleisure-influenced benefit for Naot’s business. “One of our biggest items is the Kyra, which has been our number-one style for past six years and fits right into that trend,” he says. “We use no glue, it’s a sewn last and the flexibility and insole support is terrif-ic.” Overall, Lax says the push to get younger in designs is paying dividends as the brand is reaching a younger audi-ence. “We are getting more consumers who are in their late 20s and 30s for the first time,” he reports.

Indeed, athleisure’s tremendous design influence is helping draw a younger audience to brands that have his-torically skewed old. “Athleisure has pushed comfort into the mainstream and, regardless of age, all women want a great looking pair of shoes that are also comfortable,” says Christine Bender, senior vice president of market-ing for Easy Spirit. Bender adds that Millennials, in par-ticular, tend to be more open-minded when it comes to brands. “Millennials are more likely to embrace unexpect-ed brands because they are happy to make that statement,” she says. Salzano adds, Millennials don’t need the name of the brand to give them confidence or identity. “If they put on a shoe and it feels amazing, that’s enough,” he says.

Of course, just don’t try and market directly to this audi-ence—a kiss of death. “The Millennial generation is not talking about brands as much,” Bender says, citing the stark contrast of her generation’s fixation on designer brands à la Sex and the City compared to the thrift shop nature of the fans of Girls. “They are talking about politics, debt, unemployment,” she says, noting that the brand message has to be subtler than that. Fortunately, for Easy Spirit, it helps to be affordably priced and not so logo-driven.

Infantino believes the comfort category is well on the way to shedding it’s “older relatives” fashion stigma. The influence of athleisure, generations of consumers who grew up wearing sneakers and the ability of comfort brands to incorporate greater style into comfortable designs are lead-ing the shift to younger consumers. “Now, twenty and thir-tysomethings wear ‘comfort’ shoes, but that element isn’t immediately evident since the styles are so on-trend,” he says, adding it bodes well for future sales growth for the entire category. “Retailers can continue to grow and suc-ceed in the comfort space by acknowledging that the con-sumer now knows no generation, and they should adjust their marketing and merchandising strategies to appeal to consumers of all ages.” •

S C E N E & H E A R D

ORTHOLITE IS NOW the “official insole of the New York Yankees.” The leading provider of comfort and performance insoles will engage baseball fans at home games through a variety of initiatives and promotional events during the 2016–2017 seasons. The sponsorship includes place-ment throughout Yankee Stadium, including rotating signage behind home plate, on

the foul pole LED screen and at the left side of the LED outfield screen throughout the season.

“The New York Yankees are one of the most celebrated franchises in Major League Baseball, and we are thrilled to partner with a team that places as much importance on performance as we do at OrthoLite,” states Glenn Barrett, CEO.

PUBLISH BRAND X ONITSUKA Tiger teamed up for a fresh fashion remake of the Colorado Eighty-Five Mt. Samsara model. With design roots that trace back to the 1980s, the her-itage runner has been updated with a higher heel height, rugged outsole and suede upper—designed to appeal to the

“creative nomad.” Offered in two colorways, the decon-

structed trail runner ($120 SRP) emerges in a earth-toned style representing day-light and a dark, eclipse-colored version inspired by nightfall. Perforated detail-ing, tonal rope laces and subtle co-brand-ing complete the package of each pair.

Batter Up

Cool Runnings

continued from page 19



WHEN DISASTER RELIEF worker Julie Colombino rushed to the site of Haiti’s devastating earthquake in 2010, she was surprised to discover that many residents were asking for jobs, not handouts. “I knew the standard procedure wasn’t going to work,” she notes. “People were smarter.”

Compelled by a calling to help these industrious survivors, Colombino went home to Orlando, FL, to quit her job, sell her house and return to Haiti to start a company that would offer residents a living wage. Funded by nonprofit Rebuild Globally, that company became Deux Mains Designs, an ethical fashion brand that got its start converting used tires into sandals. (The company has since expanded into handbags, jewelry and small accessories.)

Indeed, Deux Mains has come a long way in a relatively short period of time, but the path to success surely hasn’t always been a smooth one. “You can’t imag-ine what it was like,” says Colombino (now CEO of Rebuild Globally) during the company’s early stages. “We were surrounded by death, rubble, screaming. But yet the people of Haiti knew they wanted to rebuild, and they wanted to do that through jobs and creating something.”

Based on a practice she witnessed while living in Africa, Colombino came up with the idea of making sandals from recycled tires. Within a few weeks, people were looking to buy the admittedly less-than-perfected product. “They were horrible, to be honest,” she confesses. “They were heavy and ridiculous looking.” Colombino quickly realized that the rudimentary tactics just weren’t going to be a sustainable business model, and that if she wanted to create a meaningful, lasting impact with Deux Mains, the sandals had to be made bet-ter. She convinced a local shoemaker, Ody Jean, to teach the others how to do just that. Soon enough, Colombino and an increased staff of artisans, including Jean, were making sandals people would actually want to wear.

It was long after that a few big names in the industry began to take notice. Kenneth Cole was attracted to Deux Mains’ use of all locally sourced materi-als—Haitian genuine leather, repurposed tires found on local streets, glue from Hispaniola—and broached the company to make a collection. The designs hit the shelves 10 weeks later in Kenneth Cole stores worldwide. The response was strong and Deux Mains is working on a new collection with the designer for 2017. “He’s trusted us to make great stuff,” Colombino says. “He’s helping us make shoes that people really want to buy.”

In addition to Kenneth Cole, supermodel Heide Lindgren visited the Port-au-Prince factory in the summer of 2014 and started brainstorming a collection with Deux Mains that could translate from flip-flops to everyday sandals. The resulting Bel Nanm sandal is now the brand’s bestseller. In an effort to reach more U.S. consumers, Lindgren launched the collection in New York earlier this year, and Colombino has since moved back to the states to foster sales and distribution. “We need to go to retailers to be in the game,” she says, adding that Deux Mains is targeting eco-centric businesses like Whole Foods as well as specialty footwear independents.

Colombino says such retailers might be interested to know that Deux Mains is introducing its first shoe for this fall in partnership with Thread International, a company that makes thread out of plastic bottles. The canvas-like school shoes represent the next step in the company’s evolution and determination to succeed. “Working in Haiti hasn’t always been the easiest, but we’re still open,” Colombino proudly says, adding, “We want to be the leading footwear company that’s changing the world and changing the manufacturing industry.”

L A S T W O R D Good Work

Born out of a natural disaster, Haiti’s Deux Mains eco-friendly manufacturing model turns used tires into sandal treasures. By Ann Loynd

SOUL SURVIVORS

Clockwise from top: Supermodel Heide Lindgren working with Project Manager Jean Robert Pluvoise, craftsman Donald Saint Preux, CEO Julie Colombino and craftspeople in the Port-au-Prince work-shop, the Bel Nanm sandal.

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Footwear Plus Magazine | April/May 2016