Footwear Plus | The Source for Retailers | 2012 • September

Special Report

SWEET

PASTELSA Mouthwatering

Palette Awaits for Spring

Trend Spotting

Pop Goes the Retail

EXCLUSIVE TRADE SHOW ROUND-UP

A TWIST

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[email protected] 800.925.7463 www.westernchiefkids.com

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FOOTWEAR PLUS ™ (ISSN#1054-898X) Vol. 23 issue #8 The fashion magazine of the footwear industry is published monthly (except for bimonthly April/May and October/November editions) by Symphony Publishing NY LLC, 36 Cooper Square, 4th fl., New York, NY, 10003-7118. The publishers of this magazine do not accept responsibility for statements made by their advertisers in business competition. Periodicals postage is paid in New York, NY, and additional mailing offices. Subscription price for one year: $48.00 in the U.S. Rates oustide the U.S. are available upon request. Single copy price: $10.00. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to FOOTWEAR PLUS, P.O. Box 8548, Lowell, MA 01853-8548. Publisher not responsible for unsolicited articles or photos. Any photographs, artwork, manuscripts, editorial samples or merchandise sent for editorial consideration are sent at the sole risk of the sender. Symphony Publishing NY, LLC, will assume no responsibility for loss or damage. No portion of this issue may be reproduced without the written permission of the publisher. ©2012 by Symphony Publishing NY, LLC. Printed in the United States.

Caroline Diaco Publisher

Greg Dutter Editorial Director

Jennifer Craig Associate Publisher

Nancy Campbell Trevett McCandliss Creative Directors

EDITORIAL Angela Velasquez Fashion Editor

Lyndsay McGregor Associate Editor

Maria Bouselli Assistant Editor

Margaret Maloney Location Coordinator

Kathy Passero Editor at Large

Judy Leand Contributing Editor

Tim Jones Senior Designer

ADMINISTRATION Alexandra Marinacci Operations Manager

Laurie Guptill Production Manager

Melanie Prescott Circulation Manager

Mike Hoff Webmaster

Theodore Hoffman Special Projects Director

OFFICES Advertising/Editorial 36 Cooper Square, 4th fl. New York, NY 10003 Tel: (646) 278-1550 Fax: (646) 278-1553 editorialrequests@ 9Threads.com

Circulation 21 Highland Circle Needham, MA 02494 Tel: (800) 964-5150 Fax: (781) 453-9389 [email protected]

Corporate 9Threads 26202 Detroit Road, #300 Westlake, OH 44145 Tel: (440) 871-1300

Xen Zapis Chairman

Lee Zapis President

Rich Bongorno Chief Financial Officer

10 On the Road Again From Vegas to Atlanta to the Big Apple, Salt Lake City and L.A., our editors report back from the spring market trade shows.

12 Q&A: C-Merit Doug Vesling shares his journey from retail to sales to brand president of C-Merit, and how a few twists to proven formulas can go a long way. By Greg Dutter

22 Pop-Up Culture Temporary shops are treasure troves for retailers looking to satisfy customers’ needs for limited-edition products and a unique shopping experience. By Lyndsay McGregor

34 In Bloom Pastels blossom for Spring ’13, enhanced by flecks of glitter and embellishments that make styles sparkle. By Angela Velasquez

S E P T E M B E R 2 0 1 2

Left: Bronx T-strap.On the cover: Nina wedge.

Photography by Trevett McCandliss. Models: Tessa at Click (left).On the cover: Allison at Click.

4 Editor’s Note6 In the Details 8 Scene & Heard18 Trend Spotting26 What’s Selling44 Shoe Salon45 Street46 Outdoor 48 Last Word

P A G E

34

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4 footwearplusmagazine.com • september 2012

e d i t o r’ s n o t e7

RECENTLY I WAS hoofing it across Manhattan’s 8th Street to get my custom-ary “trade show” haircut when it struck me how this retail strip has changed. This east-west street that traverses Greenwich Village used to be lined with numerous independent shoe stores. The smell of leather would waft outside, triggering a Pavlov dog-like response that enticed

shoppers into stores where they could then rub the rich leathers between their fingers while a salesperson serviced any requests. With hundreds of styles to peruse, the street presented a full-on sensory shopping experience and, not surprisingly, it was one of the top places to go shoe shopping in New York.

Not any more. Nearly all of those stores are gone. Their transfor-mations complete with what appears to be a glut of fast food, frozen yogurt and cupcake shops. When I came across a recently deceased shoe store—the vacant space’s slat wall looking like skeletal remains—it hit me how limited in scope it seemed compared to today’s super-stores, Internet behemoths and trendy flash-sale sites. That tiny and tired format juxtaposed against the massive selection many now showcase—all at the click of a mouse, open 24-7 and enticed by low prices, tax-free shopping and next-day shipping—and is it any wonder consumers are buying shoes elsewhere? It’s a shift made even more attractive thanks to many brick-and-mortar retailers having stripped away the sensory advantages they hold over retailers via less service (if any), a narrow selection, and a setting that blurs from one store into the next and sparks little intrigue from consumers. The pervasive lack of service, in particular, has conditioned many consumers to not expect it and, in many cases, not even want it because it’s often unhelpful and even rude. Can you really blame consumers for prefer-ring the ease, affordability and relative immediacy of online shopping in comparison?

Sadly, it’s as if a lot of traditional retailers have tossed aside the ace up their sleeve: the ability to engage, entice and entertain all of a customer’s senses. You’ve got all five at your disposal, so why not engage the ones that the Internet can’t? Why not take that human quotient and turn it into a positive instead of being the reason people flee a store in disgust? It’s a copout to say it can’t be done or, worse, it’s admitting defeat. Besides, you’ve already invested heavily in employee salaries and benefits so you might try and get some return for it.

The fact is most consumers still love to shop and are hungry for

information. So many are in stores looking, touching and trying on styles, yet a rising number are then buying it online. It’s been dubbed “showrooming” and it was one of the hot-button issues discussed at last month’s USRA conference in Las Vegas. While there will always be those deal-mongers who will buy elsewhere for even a few pennies less, there’s little excuse to lose the vast majority of customers who have already made the effort to visit your store. You have to hook them there or offer the follow-up capabilities to not lose that sale.

Call me delusional, but I believe if a customer is treated and serviced courteously, fairly and sincerely—that it comes across that their business is truly meaningful to that proprietor—then most will reward that effort with their business. Even if the particular style or size is not immediately available, a retailer that earns the trust and respect of its customers should be able to sell them another option or assure that the requested item is in their hands within the time frame an Internet dealer might deliver it.

If you own a physical store, how can you not embrace that approach? I’ve been encouraged of late to see several traditional retailers—old stalwarts, in fact—do exactly that: embrace their sens-es. Macy’s new super shoe department in its flagship—dubbed “the world’s largest women’s shoe department”—surely rivals the selection of many Internet dealers. Not only that, the setting is beyond plush, complete with the sweet smells and tastes of a champagne and choco-late bar. It also features “runners” fetching styles for sales associates who operate handheld devices to accommodate busy shoppers. Simi-larly, Saks is expanding upon its 10022-SHOE concept in its flagship and is in the process of rolling it out to 15 stores around the country. One of the new touches is a camera pointed at customer’s shoes that will then display the image on a screen. And Barneys New York has expanded its designer offerings to include up-and-comers to appeal to its shoes-obsessed clientele, as well as to distinguish itself further from the competition.

The overall point is it can, and is, being done because consumers crave and reward such interactive, informative and imaginative shop-ping experiences. It’s an emotional escape and experience that simply can’t be replicated on a screen. And it can also go way beyond just the need to shop for new shoes. It can amount to a fun afternoon, perhaps spent with family or friends, as opposed to just sitting alone and going click, click, click... Talk about dulling the senses.

Greg Dutter Editorial Director

Get a Hold of Your Senses

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Lugged soles clean up

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WHITE SPACE

Clockwise from top: Palladium sneaker; Hush

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Rockport lace-up.

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scene and heard¡+¢

LAST MONTH, PATAGONIA Footwear, a division of Wolverine Worldwide, named go-to comfort chain, Pedestrian Shops, the Spring 2012 Best Campaign Winner for its Advocate Week, a promotion to encourage local conservation in communities nationwide.

During the campaign, the Boulder, CO, store put its focus on Earth Day, for which it holds an annual shoe drive, and partnered with the non-profit Center for Resource Conservation (CRC) that turns thinking about natural resource conservation into accomplishing it in daily life. For every pair of Patagonia shoes purchased, the company donated $10 to the CRC. The Pedestrian Shops also gave 5 percent to the CRC for each sale made by a customer who donated a pair of their own shoes to its Earth Day shoe drive, which were given to the charities One World Running and the Deacon’s Closet in Boulder.

“We think [Advocate Week] matters, from both the perspective of helping people and also from the

perspective of finding out [how to] reuse things,” says Richard Polk, president and co-founder of Pedestrian Shops. And an 80 percent spike in the brand’s sales during the promotion didn’t hurt either. “Customers reward you if

you care about what they care about,” he adds.

During the same time, Pedestrian Shops and the CRC backed the community arts initiative and upcycling event BOLD Doors in which Boulder artists, the Scrap Sisters, and local children produced displays of old doors with yellow shoes that were put in the store’s windows. “[Working] with school kids was really fun because they

are just full of energy and excited to be working with adults,” Polk notes of the project. “And all of their work was done with re-adaptation and reuse of [products].” Besides strengthening ties in the local community, Polk believes it also fortified the store’s relationship with Patagonia. “We’ll definitely do it again. It was fun,” he says. —M.B.

scene and heard¡+¢

INDIE ROCK BAND Delta Spirit will headline the Durango and House of Blues collaboration tour. The band mixes alternative instruments such as an orchestral bass drum and a trash can lid with spiritual lyrics, producing a unique sound. “With their unconventional instrument usage, hybrid rock, southern and soul raw sound—and highly energetic stage performances—Delta Spirit is just a perfect fit for our products and our brand, which is also a mash up of different styles of footwear and different

perceptions among consumers,” says Amber Vanwy, sales and marketing manager for Durango, a division of Rocky Brands.

The nationwide tour “Durango Presents Delta Spirit” begins on Oct. 31 in New Orleans and continues on to 14 other cities, including Dallas, San Francisco and Boston. Vanwy adds that the House of Blues’ reputation for a great show gives patrons an idea of what to expect. “No matter the cuisine, entertainment or location, when visitors arrive at House of Blues, they know they’re in for a great night,” she says. “We feel that matched well with Durango’s brand position—simply put, when you pull on your Durangos you’re ready for some excitement.”

As an added bonus, with a purchase of Durangos at participating retailers, consumers receive a scratch card that can be worth $5 to $100 of Live Nation Concert Cash. “The scratch card is a fun tie to the tour, enabling Durango purchasers to redeem their prize for music-related merchandise and concert tickets,” Vanwy notes. The tour will also be advertised in print and in-store as well as through Durango’s website and social media feeds. Retailers can also take part in a national sweepstakes to win a trip to the Big Apple to see Delta Spirit perform. For more information on how to get in the “spirit,” contact Vanwy at [email protected]. —Maria Bouselli

Durango Gets in the “Spirit”

THAT’S BELÉN MOZO striking an above par (in a good way) pose while sporting her Ecco BIOM natural motion golf shoes. The rising newcomer to the LPGA circuit hails from Spain and has worn the shoes during this year’s events. Like the natural premise of the BIOM design (lightweight with an ultra-low profile for a stable-hitting platform) Mozo is a natural as well. The first player since 1972 to win the Women’s British Amateur Championship and British Girls Amateur Championship in the same year, she was also a four-time All-American at the University of Southern California and a top player on the school’s 2008 NCAA National Champion squad. —Greg Dutter

Patagonia Honors Pedestrian Shops

Golf, Anyone?

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NOVEMBER 28–30WEDNESDAY–FRIDAYHilton New York Hotel & Member Showrooms

SAVE THE DATEFebruary 5–7, 2013Tuesday–Thursday

Download FFANY’s iPad App to view the show directory on November 15.

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FN Platform: State of the Union “YOU REALLY HAVE to be here,” says Leslie Gallin vice president of foot-wear at Advanstar, operators of FN Platform in Las Vegas, NV, (Aug. 21-23). And most exhibitors and retailers heartily agreed. “It’s nice to see all the people here, and it feels like a good, positive experience,” shares first-time attendee Karin Marchese of Salida Shoeman in Salida, CO.

Coinciding with the Magic Show at the Las Vegas Convention Center, the venue served as an ideal place for buyers and exhibitors to do business and effectively communicate. “Not only is the footwear industry embracing FN Platform, but so are the ready-to-wear buyers, and that’s a big plus,” Gallin notes. “I think [retailers and exhibitors] feel that they have a voice and that their suggestions and needs are being met,” she adds.

With attendance up 7 percent from last year’s show, the floor was buzzing with trends and opportunites. “This has been by far the busiest Platform show to date,” says Bob Mullaney, president of U.S. operations at Rockport. “We are gaining momentum as our products in stores are performing well, which is helping create additional excitement and renewed interest in our brand going into next spring.”

“The aisles were crowded and we were busy,” shares Adam Tucker, CEO of Me Too. Specifically, Tucker was encouraged by what he saw as a renewed sense of industry unity at the show and said it was refreshing to see many top-level execs in attendance. His only wish, which was also made by several other exhibitors, was that the August edition came a week or so earlier in the month.

Nonetheless, the big boys and key indepen-dents were all present, according to Martin Berendsen, head of U.S. sales for the Turkish-made Inuovo. His booth was hopping, which is pretty good considering Berendsen didn’t pre-book a single appointment. “Our booth was jam-packed and that helped bring others by to see what all the fuss is about,” he says, adding that Nordstrom, Dillard’s, T.J.Maxx and DSW were just a few of the heavyweights checking out the colorful line (90 styles, each available in 17 colorways).

Overall, the show’s vibe was encouraging. “The mood of buyers was generally optimistic,” says Mark Diehl, senior vice president of sales at Dansko. He notes that the good vibes might be, in part, attributable with the brand’s success this spring. “We are on pace for another record year,” he says. “Our customers like what they have been selling and are confident that our Spring ’13 col-lection will also do well.”

Gallin notes that retailers have embraced FN Platform’s easy-to-shop, under-one-roof format.

“They can genuinely walk the show, look at the product and determine what direction they would like to move in,” she says. “It’s an efficient use of everyone’s time.” Roger Brooks of Brooks Shoes for Kids, with various loca-tions in California, described the show as “valuable.” “The combination of apparel with shoes makes sense,” he says. He notes a Western-influence as one of the prevailing trends, as well as many variations of pink, turquoise, gold and silver.

Color ran through several categories—from neon to pastels to pops on men’s outsoles. “It’s a big push, [especially] with the Olympics just end-ing,” Marchese says. “It’s all bright.” Lora Sherod of OnlineShoes.com cited wedges as another major trend for spring. “Lots of cork wedges and plat-forms with fun buckle details,” she says. Maria Jesus Morales, a buyer for Cachorro in Mexico City, MX, noted the lowering of heels as a key trend, as well as more ballerina flats and the use of different materials such as suede.

Gallin cited the men’s market as being particularly strong as male con-sumers are “getting on the bandwagon that they can actually wear more than one pair of shoes.” Rockport’s Mullaney concurs that men’s is on the verge of a growth spurt: “The category is poised for a real coming out party

with all the new products and colors being intro-duced and the fact that male consumers are more receptive to changing their wardrobe up a bit,” he says. “It’s prompting men’s retailers to step up their selections and take more risks, which bodes well for a brand like ours.”

As for future editions of FN Platform, Gallin says she is already working on new initiatives for next February. “Something that we need to work towards is educating our exhibitors on how to do better dis-plays,” she notes. “We can help retailers in their own stores when they leave here to produce an enticing view for the consumer.” —Maria Bouselli

The Atlanta Shoe Market: Bigger is BetterTHE ATLANTA SHOE Market (TASM) once again smashed attendance records during its Aug. 17-19 edition, boasting a roster of more than 900 exhibi-tors and 1,800 brands that cemented its reputation as the go-to show for retailers from the Southeast and beyond. “We have been sold out for three months, and retailer attendance is up 20 percent,” reports Laura Conwell-O’Brien, show manager and exec-utive director of the Southeastern Shoe Travelers Association, adding that the numbers hearken those of 15 years ago. “We’ve been working towards this for five to seven years, and as each year has gone on—even with the economy being bad and some trade shows going away—ours has been going up, up, up.”

S P E C I A LR E P O R T

The trade show round-up: key trends, traffic reports and juicy topics coming out of FN Platform, FFANY, Outdoor Retailer and The Atlanta Shoe Market among others.

On the Road Again

Luichiny

Merrell

Rockport

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2012 september • footwearplusmagazine.com 11

Attendees throughout the Cobb Galleria Centre awarded high marks to TASM’s easy-to-shop for-mat. “It’s great for people who are just shopping around trying to get a feel of what they want, and it’s also great for people who don’t know if they can access your brand: they can step in and just check out the pricing and quality,” notes Nancy Espaillat, account executive at Fossil. Rick Buchanan, east-ern sales manager for Kickers, agrees: “Typically the last day of any show is not good, but that was not the case at this show because on Sunday all of the local merchants were there.”

In addition to Atlanta’s convenience as a trav-el destination and its relative affordability (hotel rates are in the $100-a-night range), Conwell-O’Brien proclaims the show itself proves to be a bargain in comparison to other shows as exhibit space is a fraction of the cost and hot lunches were available on-site for a mere $5. More importantly, many in attendance wrote orders, helping further build TASM’s reputation as a buying show. “We already had FFANY so we knew what was going to be great,” confirms Sonia Angulo, southeast ter-ritory manager for Kenneth Cole. “We weed out everything so what we want our customers to have is what they are picking. We’re giving our best.”

With some retailers on the hunt for unique items and others sticking to core styles, TASM presented a plethora of trends, including spring must-haves like muted pastels, neon, raffia and cork. Wedges, from sandals to sneakers, reigned supreme, while comfort continued to be a huge category. Buchanan points out that while color is always a major player for spring, retailers are not hanging their hats on it completely, choosing instead to ground their merchandise mix in a crop of earth tones. Specifically, Michelle Labrador, DKNY account executive, notes that independent retailers are often gun-shy and cautious, but at the same time you have to “control them from buying too much because they get a little eager,” she says, adding that cork wedge updates are strong sellers for the brand this go-round.

Though French Sole’s Dan Van Antwerp believes that buyers are still concerned about the econ-omy, Conwell-O’Brien thinks that anyone who has survived the past four years can make it. “I think everyone learned how to be more conser-vative on both ends, which they had to be,” she says. “And that’s why they survived.” She adds, “Even though the general feel is that, as an indus-try, we’re better, we’re not all the way better.” —Lyndsay McGregor

Outdoor Retailer: True ColorsDESPITE HAVING TO grapple with a tough economy made even more difficult by an unsea-sonably warm winter, the mood from approximate-ly 27,000 attendees of the 2012 Outdoor Retailer Summer Market show (Aug. 2-5) in Salt Lake City, UT, was upbeat. In fact, it was the largest OR show

on record, posting a near 20 percent increase in retailer attendance and boasting 1,400 exhibitors, about a quarter of which were footwear companies. And even at nearly 500,000 square feet of space, the show was bursting at the seams.

From a footwear perspective, Kenji Haroutunian, OR show director, notes, “There were 150 more exhibitors than last summer—and it was the third year in a row of store attendance increases in the double-digits. There were also 62 new footwear exhibitors out of 150 total new exhibitors, includ-ing Asics, Puma, Rocky and Pearl Izumi.”

Bold, vivid color was very evident on the show floor. This clearly underscored the major trend of outdoor brands’ embrace of athletic-inspired materials, technologies, hues and silhouettes—a shift that’s being spurred by the market’s expan-sion into urban environments and action sports-related activities. Also prevalent was the enormous popularity of minimal footwear in both the perfor-mance and lifestyle realms, and a renewed focus on versatile, multi-sport designs.

Performance running brands such as New Balance, Brooks, Saucony and Asics all experi-enced positive reactions to their bright-colored, lightweight shoes, as did core outdoor footwear makers including Hi-Tec, Teva, Columbia, Chaco, Merrell, Adidas, Vibram FiveFingers, The North Face and Asolo, just to name a few.

According to Ed van Wezel, global CEO of Hi-Tec Sports, “bright colors, athletic influences and confident branding” have helped the compa-ny triple its international sales from 2010 to 2013. Moreover, out of the company’s 74 footwear styles, 51 are new for Spring ’13. Similarly, Doug Clark, CEO of New England Footwear, makers of GoLite Footwear, reports that the use of rich, saturated color helped boost at-once business by 40 percent.

At Chaco, General Manager Chip Coe points out that the brand “beefed up color in basic mod-els” for Spring ’13, and he expects the trend of lightweight, colorful fare to continue into next spring. “For us, color really caught fire with 18- to 30-year-olds, especially women, in the Southern-tier states,” he says. “The early and extreme warm weather extended the spring selling season and allowed retailers to make up for fall/winter.” He adds, “Retailers are looking to strong brands and relying on vendors’ ability to fill in and chase busi-ness during the season.”

On the tech side, Teva’s new TevaSphere plat-form that adds stability to natural motion foot-wear was a key attraction. TevaSphere employs a spherical heel and pod-arch system that is designed to deliver a more natural point of impact, efficient transition and superior stability over var-ied terrain. “TevaSphere is being well-received,” says Joel Heath, brand president, adding that with open-to-buy still a challenge for many retailers, the technology is allowing Teva to gain credibil-ity in both outdoor and running specialty >27

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T W IS T O F FATE

12

OUG VESLING HAS been around the block when it comes to the footwear industry. With an extensive back-ground in retail, sales and wholesale he has the unique perspective of understanding the industry from three key angles. He cut his teeth working for Value City’s leased footwear departments where he learned the fast-

paced world of discount retailing. He worked his way up to buyer and eventually assumed similar duties at Famous Footwear, learning along-side Brian Cook. Vesling then made a leap into wholesale where he made his mark at American Sporting Goods during a successful 10-year run alongside Jerry Turner. And before coming to the helm of C-Merit, he launched his own rep firm that covered 16 states.

You might say Vesling has pretty much seen and heard it all: the brands and trends that have come and gone; the selling strategies and princi-ples that remain true despite the passage of time; and the retail formats of old, new and ones in need of change. The fact is Vesling is a student of the industry. He’s not just a number cruncher. But he does have a firm

grasp of retail math and can relate to a retailer’s need to come out ahead at the end of each day. He’s been there, done that. And while Vesling is not exactly a designer, after two decades of buying and making shoes he knows what makes a shoe sell through as opposed to just sell in. Having worked with reps as well as running his own agency, Vesling understands the critical—albeit increasingly lacking—human ingredient necessary for long-term success in this business. Sure, great product is a must, but with-out an ability to effectively manage it all the way to sell-through season after season, a retailer can always turn to another “great” product. “Most buyers want to go to bed at night knowing that their reps are really work-ing for them,” he says. “That they are there to warn of any issues and will be there through the successes and failures.” Vesling adds, “That’s what I wanted when I was a buyer. I’d give you all the orders in the world if you truly were a partner in helping build my business.”

Vesling has also been around long enough to know that the industry is in need of some freshness—new twists, if you will. Aside from e-com-merce, he believes the industry is ripe for some new approaches. “We need to take a hard look at what we want to be and reinvent ourselves because we have been stuck on doing too many things the old way,” he says. “The way product is made, shipped and sold at retail, as well as the store for-mats, could benefit from a fresh approach.”

That’s the strategy Vesling has taken since being named president of C-Merit about two years ago. All three of the company’s labels offer a fresh take on staple categories that give their respective audiences that added incentive to buy. Gotta Flurt made its mark by spinning the Converse aes-thetic into a more girly-girl direction with wild patterns, bold colors and edgy materials like sequins, glitters and frayed edges. Over-the-top is the brand’s design ethos, which has been kicked up another notch this sea-son with its exclusive license for Twist Me, reversible tongues that give wearers added style versatility. Basically, Vesling knew Gotta Flurt need-ed an added twist if it was going to get placed at retail. “Initially, we were too much like Vans and Converse,” he admits. “So we addressed the wow factor and I said, ‘Don’t even show a style to me if it doesn’t produce that response.’” Thanks to plenty of dazzle, the brand is now getting placed where many already carry those other brands. And, Vesling reports, sales

Doug Vesling, president of C-Merit Corporation, makers of Gotta Flurt, Evos and Nord Trail, discusses how proven formulas, along with a few creative twists, are a recipe for success. By Greg Dutter

D

FW_09_12_QA_03.indd 12 8/24/12 12:27 PM

Introducing the Autumn Winter 2012 Cat Women’sFootwear Collection. Contact your local sales representativeor [email protected] more information.

www.cat.com www.caterpillar.com © 2012 Wolverine Worldwide. CAT, CATERPILLAR and their respective logos, “Caterpillar Yellow” and “Caterpillar Corporate Yellow,” as well as corporate and product identity used herein, are trademarks of Caterpillar and may not be used without permission.

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are up more than 25 percent this year. The success has also enabled Gotta Flurt to expand into new constructions and styles, and Vesling believes it’s well on its way to becoming a lifestyle brand. “My wife wears it because she loves the colors,” he notes. “And while the target age range is kids to around age 22, we will continue to develop new products for anyone who is inter-ested because no one wants to look old.”

The success of Gotta Flurt spawned C-Merit’s decision to launch Evos (short for “evolution of style”). The premise being that a fresh approach on a girls’ staple could work in young men’s. “Evos is a fusion of athletic and casual but done in a cutting-edge way,” Vesling notes. For example, the cur-rent popularity of Sperry’s boat shoe done the Evos way incorporates the latest colors and materials and it may be a four-eyelet design. So far so good for the line that debuted this year and, Vesling notes, received a strong reaction at the recent Out-door Retailer (OR) show. “Thanks to the resurgence of athletic styling, specifical-ly colors, those looks are bleeding into the casual market,” he notes. “Now we are see-ing casual companies take the traditional white buck, for example, and put five differ-ent colors on it, which bodes well for Evos.”

Similarly, Vesling says the idea behind the Spring ’13 launch of Nord Trail is to put a fresh spin on the traditional day hiker at a more affordable price ($45-$80 suggest-ed retail). Both traits run counter to the overly pervasive earth tones found in many outdoor products as well as the higher end brand positions. The value aspect is par-ticularly important today, he says. “It’s like everyone has been going off the deep end on pricing in the outdoor segment. And any-one not at the top tier has to be value-driv-en for your consumer as well as offer high profit for your retailers,” he says. Vesling reports the response to Nord Trail at OR was encouraging. “It was better than expect-ed and we placed plenty of orders,” he notes, despite showing in the new products zone. “But that’s also why we met with a lot of independents that shop that area trying to find something that the majors don’t carry yet.”

Perhaps C-Merit’s booth location at OR was another twist of good fate for a company that relies on proven techniques topped with that little some-thing extra. The combination, Vesling believes, is the difference maker to becoming a meaningful player in the market. And despite the many obsta-cles and challenges all start-ups face these days, C-Merit is on its way to that goal. “Our economy has been a disaster, but we are still launching brands and growing when most think that isn’t possible,” he says. “And while I wish market conditions were better, we have a team of veterans who understand what it takes to make a go of it and we are teaching our young recruits how to do so as well.”

How did the C-Merit job offer come about? Actually, the process started back when I opened my rep agency and Gotta Flurt was one of my first accounts. I knew all the majors and also knew that there’s a whole industry of great product that doesn’t have brand rec-

ognition. They just need an opportunity to get in the door. Thanks to those relationships, I was able to start building a business. During that time, our owner (Jeffrey Jia) pulled me aside and asked if I could do what I was doing for the rest of the company. Well, I like taking a young business and putting some practical applications to it. I was also fortunate to hook up with an old associate, Laurence LaHaye (vice president of product), and we put togeth-er our business plan and here we are.

Was it a difficult decision to close your rep agency?Yes. I had started that agency after leaving American Sporting Goods. Orig-inally, I planned to work for another wholesale company, but then the mar-

ket crashed and I sat on the sidelines for about a year watching the industry change. My father was also terminally ill with can-cer and, for all of those years I had traveled so much for work, I realized I never spent much time with him. So I told my wife “Dad and I are going to hang out for a while.” And she said what better time than now. We got through his chemo treatments together and we traveled to watch my son’s college base-ball team play. We did everything togeth-er and traveled to as many places as we could. Sometimes, between innings, I would be making a call to a company about a job prospect. I came close on a couple of offers, but I decided to start an agency instead.

What attracted you most to taking the reins of C-Merit?Basically, it gave me the opportunity to do what I had been doing at American Sport-ing Goods, which I loved. The business model we put together there is primari-ly what we are doing here. It all starts with great people and their ability to establish solid relationships. Back then I hired the best reps available, and all of them today have impeccable reputations, trust and fol-lowings. It’s no different today. I always tell my reps that they really work for their retail-ers and not me. I want them to represent

their best interests. It was a great model and it worked very well and there’s no reason why it can’t again.

Why exactly?Second- through fourth-tier brands can’t just walk in and get placed these days. You have to build those relationships and earn their respect and trust. That goes way back to my retail days and understanding what buy-ers go through in putting a budget together and dealing with margins, sell-throughs, aging of goods, etc. I know what they go through because I did it, too. That’s why our reps go way beyond being order-takers and are trained to be more like business managers who are valuable assets to their accounts. Our reps are required to know that account better than anybody. Fortunate-ly, I have been slowly acquiring some old friends to fill out our rep force as well as some new faces that I feel can get on that learning curve quickly. Because once you have your factory, salespeople and distribution in place, the rest is relatively easy.

O&A

O F F T H E C U F FWhat are you reading? Steve Jobs. It answers all the questions about who he was.

What one word best describes you? Practical.

Who is your favorite character in literature? Sometimes I feel like the Trojan horse carrying my entire company inside. I’m just like all the other horses out there until I open the door and show them who we really are.

If you could hire anybody who would it be? Howard Hughes. Being able to tap into his imagination would be a huge plus for our brands.

Who would be your most coveted dinner guest? Bob Hope. I love humor around the dinner table.

What might people be surprised to know about you? I’m very competitive.

What is your motto? Bite off more than you can chew because you can always spit it back out if you don’t like it.

What is a favorite home-town memory? I grew up in Grafton, OH, which primarily was a rural town back then. Once it was “drive your tractor to school” day and I con-vinced my dad to let me borrow one.

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durangoboot.com1-888-848-9452

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Easy?The most difficult challenge is understanding your retailers’ respective busi-nesses and gaining their trust. We are multi-branded and very adept at all of the blocking and tackling required, be it the design, manufacturing, mar-keting, purchase orders, shipping—everything that needs to be done. Get-ting orders, for example, is not nearly as tough as managing everything else.

Where is Gotta Flurt in terms of its brand positioning?We are only scratching the surface as our distribution is still in its infancy. But the growth has been solid. For next season we will probably add anoth-er 30 to 40 percent of volume because of our aggressive color story and how much we improved on our Twist Me reversible tongue program. In regards to the latter, we started out with a couple of SKUs and are tripling it for Spring ’13. With respect to any new brand, it obviously takes great product as well as a strong team and business plan that offers profitability for both sides. Of course, if I didn’t have those relationships, I don’t even know if they would open the door for me.

Can relationships outweigh the product ever? You often don’t get that opportunity without the relationships, and you only get that opportunity if you have paid your dues. That’s why I’ve always been indebted to the retailer. In fact, our friends are our accounts. To do it right in this industry, you have to be con-stantly traveling. The guy who wants to be home every night probably isn’t going to accomplish much. That’s why I want hired guns—people I know that when we put into battle they will win. Along those lines, we just doubled our sales team with the addition of some great people. I know I can’t do it alone.

Where do you envision Gotta Flurt in three years? It will be a lifestyle brand. It might become a stronger children’s brand, as well. We will also offer spinoff collections, like the Blush Collection by Gotta Flurt, which will allow us to go into other cat-egories and constructions. But only if it’s right for the brand. For example, we know the brand can’t translate into men’s, so that’s why we created Evos. If we are going to be knocking on major retailers’ doors, I want to eventually have a business for every one of their buyers’ needs like at American Sport-ing Goods. It was a shopping bag approach where they can check off all of their needs. Evos’ big coming out party will be the fourth quarter of this year and next spring.

It seems like good timing as the men’s category has been embracing more fashion of late. Do you agree?Yes. Thanks, in a large part, to the resurgence of the athletic business—specifically the running segment—it is ushering in a lot of new colors and technologies. The Olympics, in particular, saw the athletes sport-ing some really crazy styles. In general, the athletic category gets away with everything, which is good for our industry because it creates a ton of buzz and eventually influences other market segments. And that’s a welcome sign because we have gotten too traditional and misguided. Men’s dress, in particular, had become the definition of boring. And even casual wasn’t allowed to stretch much beyond a boat shoe where the big story was distressed leather. There was little in the way of a tech-nical story. But for the footwear industry to be really successful it needs the athletic brands driving the market. And those brands are absolute-ly doing that again. Thanks to those influences, the color and technolo-gy stories are now bleeding into dress and casual.

Like minimalism, for example. That’s a wearable tech-based story adaptable to many categories. Absolutely. But, remember how the story used to be all about torsion control and cushioning? Back then everyone had what I called their “flubber.” Some of those technologies worked and some didn’t. The more visible it was—the more you could touch and feel it—the more suc-cessful it was. Now it’s the opposite story. You’ve got running shoes in a $100 range that are just lightweight with compression-molded EVA that are just colorful. It’s all in the marketing.

How does Nord Trail fit into this less-is-more-colorful market landscape?Its niche is what we describe as the day hiker who will never climb Mt. Kilimanjaro. This customer is just looking for outdoor fashion and basic function, but doesn’t want to spend an arm and a leg for it. My first phone call isn’t to R.E.I., because my shoe isn’t going to hold up to 500 below zero. That being said, we signed Ronnie Kovach, the host of Fox Sports’ Fishing Ventures, to an endorsement deal. He gives us credibil-ity by wearing our product as well as terrific exposure every Saturday morning when outdoor enthusiasts watch his show in Western states. What I also like about the program is that it focuses on the outdoor life-style aspect beyond fishing. You’ll often watch him walk into the camp-

site and then there are scenes of him fishing. He’s really good about tying the whole outdoor experience in together.

What about Nord Trail’s amped up fashion for women?We’ve incorporated a strong story in terms of materials and colors because I think there’s tremendous opportunity in women’s hiking since they’ve all been pretty much boring takeoffs of men’s styles up until now. If you walk into a Bass Pro shop the shoe wall looks like someone splashed a bucket of brown paint against it. During OR we had more women grab some of our color-ful styles and just say, “Wow. I’d love to have a pair of these. When can I get them?” They included exhibitors, buy-

ers and the help staff. They loved the colors and quickly discovered that they are lightweight, functional and come in plenty of low-cut versions as we focused on the trail running silhouette. There are lots of people walking for exercise and many are getting tired of walking on the road and are moving over to trails. In fact, a lot of charity walks are switch-ing to trails.

Do you envision adding more brands to C-Merit’s portfolio?Absolutely. We had a nice introduction with sandals two years ago and it’s a major push for us again this year. So maybe it becomes a brand of its own. But we’ve got to work within our strengths. If we don’t have a factory base that can guarantee what we promise then it will fail either by our retailers not getting deliveries on time or receiving poorly fitting product. As we expand the portfolio we have to make sure all the factors are built in to support each brand correctly.

What’s your take on China’s sourcing capabilities going forward?People who think that they can pack up and leave China are wrong. There are now different regions that you have to travel to, but you can get to them easier than before. It’s like they put up roads in a day, bridg-es in a week and skyscrapers in a month. I can travel that country via planes, trains and automobiles comfortably and on time. In fact, I visit 10 to 12 factories in a week every time I go—and that’s in three >47

There’s tremendous opportunity in women’s hiking since they’ve all

been pretty much boring takeoffs of men’s styles.

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Blossom

Born

Frye

Bella Vita

Kravings by Klogs

Blondo

Minnetonka

Braid BarWoven accents add an intricate twist to

season staples.


S P O T T I N GT R E N D

fw_09_12_trendspotting_02.indd 18 8/24/12 2:51 PM


Braid Bar

Need Toner

Dual-colored oxfords draw out this

season’s dandy.

Caterpillar

Naot

Wolverine 1000 Mile



S P O T T I N GT R E N D

Tsubo

Born

Sperry Top-Sider

Sole Glow

Brights electrify classic silhouettes.

Hush Puppies



Blue LagoonDesigners take the plunge

with cobalt hues.

Timberland

Bearpaw

Native

Alegria



Temporary shops turn empty spaces into

quick sales centers and build long-lasting

brand awareness. By Lyndsay McGregor

POP-UP CULTURE

Puma Social Club on

London’s Brick Lane.

OR SOMETHING THAT’S supposed to be temporary, pop-up stores are beginning to look a lot like permanent pieces of the retail landscape. Thanks to an overstock of available storefronts and brands’ desire to build interest and excitement any way they can, everyone from small independents to big-box dealers is hopping on the pop-up shops bandwagon. In fact, the format was responsible for $8 billion in sales in 2010 and rose 14 percent in the first two quarters of 2011 over the year before, according to the industry publication, Specialty Retail Report.

“Pop-up retail is a way to convey a message that’s never been seen before, never been done before. It’s a whole new way for merchants and brands to connect with their customers,” says Christina Norsig, founder of Pop-Up Insider, an outfit that brings together property owners and potential pop-up tenants. From big-budget splashy structures plunked in the middle of Manhattan to tiny online shops offering one-day flash sales, it’s commonplace for temporary storefronts to pop up, only to disappear a few hours, days or weeks later. Some offer special discounts or limited-edition wares; others simply want to showcase a brand to a new audience. Either way, pop-ups have become the perfect platform for brands and retailers to promote a new product and generate buzz.

Norsig points to Target’s much-trumpeted Missoni

collaboration as the epitome of limited-edition lust: The collection’s pop-up launch at Bryant Park in Manhattan sold out in just six hours as shoppers scrambled to snag the Italian designer’s swag for a song. But make no mistake: Pulling together a successful pop-up is hard work. As Norsig puts it, “It’s important to note that everything has its limitations. When a store doesn’t deliver on this whole notion of ‘limited edition,’ it doesn’t work.”

TIMING IS EVERYTHINGForget gold medals and badminton melodrama. Not only did London get the 2012 Olympic Games, but its shuttered shop fronts got a new lease on life with a slew of pop-ups stocking one-off pieces and never-before-seen collaborations enticing a worldwide audience. Business alliance Heart of London reported that foot traffic for retailers in the heart of the capital during the Games was up 16.2 percent compared with the same period in 2011, offering a welcome respite for the beleaguered high street retailers feeling the brutal effects of the European debt crisis.

For example, British designer Julie Verhoeven and neon artist Kleber Matheus collaborated on the interior design of Brazilian brand Melissa’s first ever U.K. pop-up, creating a

fw_09_pop_up_feature_04.indd 22 8/22/12 12:22 PM

suitably avant-garde, Olympic-themed installation for the cult label to flog its signature jelly kicks. Brand director Alana Man reveals it was so successful that it confirmed London as a key location for a potential Galleria Melissa flagship. Meanwhile British-made brand Church’s transformed its Regent Street store into a pop-up selling 17 variations of just one style, the Stratford, in all sizes and for both sexes, that played with the colors of the Olympic rings.

Liberty London’s 1,700-square-foot pop-up in an East End mall boasted an oversized Union Jack flag made up of the label’s signature floral prints, while inside was chock-full of its collaborations with Barbour, Dr Marten’s and Nike, the last of which also took over the central atrium in Liberty’s landmark store across town, with a pop-up for a new collection of iconic heritage silhouettes and high-performance track spikes. Ornately detailed balloons made up the Hotel Creative-designed installation that told Nike’s lightweight product story, and the Nike Zoom Victory Elite—in high voltage yellow featuring Liberty’s “Mirabelle” print—was available exclusively at the pop-up.

Not to be outdone, Puma hosted a massive (and free to the public) 500,000-square-foot Jamaican-themed social club and outdoor space called The Puma Yard on London’s Brick Lane. The festive space featured a multi-level shopping experience built from four 40-foot shipping containers, where fans could score gold medal winner Usain Bolt-inspired sneakers and a ready-to-wear collection designed by Bob Marley’s daughter, Cedella. Kingston-inspired food stalls dished up authentic Jamaican cuisine while a “beach bar” served refreshing island libations. The Yard also hosted musical performances from the likes of Groove Armada and Gyptian.

HERE TODAY, GONE TOMORROWPop-ups allow you to extend your brand into the offline world, and there’s also scope to grow brand awareness among people who might not otherwise know about it. When Chris Luhur, founder of ChromaticGallerie, casually mentioned to a friend that she would love to be involved with Story, the New York-based rotating concept

store, she had no idea it would lead to her brand being part of its April edition. ChromaticGallerie’s site had not yet launched, and Luhur only had a handful of samples and finished product. But she knew it was an opportunity she couldn’t pass up. “It was a chance for us not only to get in front of New Yorkers but also get people to try out our product,” she says.

BucketFeet’s pop-up at Apartment Number 9 in Chicago.

Melissa’s first-ever U.K. pop-up shop.

Civic Duty popped up at Treasure & Bond.


“Even if you offer free shipping and free returns, people are still hesitant to buy a new shoe brand online. It was great to allow people to touch and feel the shoes.”

The seen-on-screen brand (oft on the feet of Zooey Deschanel on Fox’s hit TV show New Girl) lets its online customers personalize their pumps by color, material, width and heel height. Another perk of pop-up partnership is peace of mind. “When you’re doing a pop-up on your own, you’re fronting all the costs. [Story was] perfect because we didn’t have to deal with budgets or planning displays,” she notes, adding that it’s important to understand who you’re working with or, if you’re doing your own space, to “research who your designers are, who the players are and make sure that its very on-brand because in the end you don’t want to just throw something together.”

“When dealing with retail, you really need to make sure the culture of the store you’re working with fits well with your own,” agrees Aaron Feinstein, co-founder of artist-designed footwear brand BucketFeet. “Don’t do a pop-up just to do a pop-up. Make sure it’s a fit.” For his brand, that was a midsummer month-long shop-in-shop at Chicago men’s boutique Apartment Number 9. “The fact that it has a time limit makes people act quickly,” he adds. “It fits well with the fact that our shoes are limited in nature.” BucketFeet sells one-of-a-kind shoes together with local artists and then donates a percentage of each sale to one of three child-focused charities. “People like participating in stuff like this when they know that once it’s over, it’s over. There’s an air of exclusivity to it,” Feinstein says.

This month Durango Boots, a division of Rocky Brands, will go the short-term route to spread the word about its latest venture: The brand is marking the fall launch of its new line City Collection with a photo installation and pop-up shop in New York during Fashion Week. “They’re trying to branch out of just being known for their cowboy boots and to more of an urban style,” says Nicole King of The Kartel Company, who is handling the event. The line includes six different collections named after different U.S. cities. The launch of a coffee table book profiling a curated crop of influential New Yorkers shot by fashion photographer Ashley “Sky” Walker will anchor the event.

MAKE SOME NOISECivic Duty is embracing the idea of pop-up shops, using the format to spread awareness here in the U.S. and beyond. The eco-friendly unisex footwear line debuted its first temporary space inside the Nordstrom-owned eclectic emporium Treasure & Bond in New York’s Soho neighborhood over the Memorial Day weekend. “My shoes have been in there since they opened the store and they’ve been doing extremely well,” says creator Steven Weinreb.

Pop ChartsPop-up shops have gone from a perfect example of temporary instal-lation to a fixture on all marketing strategy to-do lists. With everything from photography workshops to food trucks claiming the concept, how do you make your store stand out? “You can’t write off the strength of having a physical space,” says Melissa Gonzalez, CEO and founder of Lion’esque Style, a company that helps brands open and market pop-ups. Here she shares her tips on mak-ing pop-up shops work for you.

Why do it: Some businesses open pop-ups to try out a new idea or showcase a new product line. Other brands might be a big deal abroad but want to test the U.S. market to see if it makes sense to open up a store here. For online retailers, pop-ups offer an opportunity to engage and interact with their customers.

Where to do it: Pop-ups tend to appear in vacant spaces, like a store between leases. When researching locations, make sure all your busi-ness needs are met and try choosing somewhere with a lot of foot traffic.

Make it pop: Create a strong life-style message so consumers walk in and immediately “get” you. This is where windows are a huge help: “The pick-up and drop-off in traffic is based on what’s in that window,” Gonzalez notes. Stop shoppers in their tracks with engaging visuals and alluring displays.

Stock it: The amount of stock you will need depends on the size of your space and the length of time you will be there. And it’s important to think about who exactly is in that neighbor-hood: Curate your selection based on who your audience is.

Spread the word: Start market-ing your pop-up before it even opens. Use social media, and give yourself enough time so publications and bloggers can write about it and drum up interest. Gonzalez recommends VIP shopping events, co-hosting a night with fashion bloggers or run-ning a promotion where anyone who “checks in” on Facebook or Foursquare gets a percentage off his or her purchase. —L.M.


“And we were just talking one day about the business and I casually mentioned that I had this idea [to do a pop-up] and they agreed.” For a limited run, all five styles were available in the space in every single color, offering a much broader assortment that fully represented the brand. “Business at Treasure & Bond was insane,” he says. “I even got calls from international distributors who saw the brand there and were interested in bringing it to their country.”

Earlier that same month, Civic Duty took over a kiosk in Grand Central Terminal’s Graybar Passage, exposing itself to the thousands of commuters that travel through the station every day. While there was no room for inventory, the team set up a nice display with product samples and offered free shipping to customers who placed orders on the spot using a sleek iPad setup. “What was interesting about the kiosk was that I actually got calls from retailers telling me that customers of theirs were saying, ‘Hey, we commute through Grand Central and saw these great shoes.’ It opened up some new retail accounts,” Weinreb reveals.

While Treasure & Bond was more successful on the sales front, Weinreb reports both locations generated a lot of buzz for Civic Duty. “Obviously when you partner with a retailer like Treasure & Bond, who has such a good presence, it’s great because people immediately associate you with a reputable store. It gives you a platform,” he notes, but is quick to add that if it’s not done properly, it’s pointless. “Make sure you’re putting the brand message out there, something that speaks of your brand. There has to be a connection between what you want your brand to represent and how you display it,” he says. “It has to be entailing and merchandised the right way. It has to make sense to [customers] when they see it. It can’t be just a bunch of products thrown together. When used the right way, [pop-ups are] a fantastic tool.” •

Nike took over Liberty London.



w h a t ’ s s e l l i n g back-to-school

What are parents spending on average per child? Our average sale, if parents do it all at once with various

styles of shoes, would be from $150 to $200 per child.

WITH THE TAG line “Because every toe counts,” owner Athena Bradley believes proper fit is the most important factor when purchasing a child’s shoe. “There really aren’t a lot of places for children’s shoes that specialize in proper fit anymore,” she says. That’s why customers come to Bradley’s 1,500-square-foot store, which has one shoe out on the floor and more sizes in the back so customers receive a hands-on, quality service experience. “Myself and my staff are trained in making the shoe experience for families enjoyable,” Bradley affirms.

THIS 5,000-SQUARE-foot store has been a local treasure since 1948. “When we say it’s a family shoe store, it really is,” says children’s buyer Dan Falvey. “We watch these kids grow up.” Falvey himself has been a customer for life and in recent years has taken his youngsters to The Kids Barn to buy their shoes. The salespeople’s reputation is well known, with customers even journeying 40 to 50 miles to the store. “People come to us because they know they are going to leave with a good-fitting shoe, and we have a big selection,” Falvey notes. Kids can find everything they need, from dress to athletic, for back-to-school at this New England mainstay.

TEN TOES CHILDREN’S SHOESSan Carlos, CA

$

THE KIDS BARNWest Newton, MA

By Maria Bouselli

Any new brands that you’re adding to the mix this season? We’re really excited about Luv. I think it’s going to be a fun product, and the designer and the people who own the company are around the corner from me. The brand features ballet flat-shaped shoes with the bottom made out of a Crocs-like material, and the top is a fabric that can be printed on. They’re really stylish, come in great colors and are not super expensive. I’m excited to see how they fit and how customers react.

Leading brands: Stride Rite, Pediped, Nike, Tsukihoshi, See Kai Run, Ugg, Skechers, Vans.

How much say do kids have in the purchase decision? We definitely have families that come in and the child is 100 percent making the decision, then there are the families where the mom makes it, and then some are a collaborative effort. Children have a pretty strong voice in what they want. Their opinion counts.

What other products do you carry besides shoes? We do a bit of clothing. The North Face is really our big name brand. And we have a ton of socks, and of course soccer accessories for the fall.

What are your top-selling accessories for back-to-school? Definitely bows and headbands.

Leading brands: Ugg, Merrell, Primigi, Kenneth Cole, Asics, Nike, Crocs, Keen, Clarks.

How much say do kids have in the purchase decision? It’s probably 50-50. We have some parents that are really easy and let the kids pick out what they like. And our salespeople know how to steer the parent when they’re hysterical if their kids want shoes that light up when they run. We do a lot of counseling on the floor. There’s so much to choose from so we can usually find a middle ground without too much trouble.

How important is fit? We would rather not sell the shoe and lose the sale than sell something that doesn’t fit. I think that’s where we differentiate from the mass-market stores. We stress fit above all.

Is there a boot style that you expect to sell a lot of this fall? We do great with rain gear. That’s always huge come October. When it rains, the rain gear gets going.

Luv

Western Chief

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continued from page 11

channels. “We plan to bring the rounded-heel tech-nology into more of our line, and in 2014 we’ll offer TevaSphere both in sandals and at secondary price points,” he adds.

On the casual/lifestyle side, Timberland is seeing growth in its Earthkeepers collection that now rep-resents 75 percent of the brand’s total product mix, up from just 10 percent last spring. And at Vibram FiveFingers, the brand is capturing new enthusiasts via lower price points on models such as Entrada trainer for women and ELX for men that are both retail priced at $75.

The retail response to the spring offerings was mostly positive. “There’s tons of good stuff out there, including cork footbed sandals and minimal-ist footwear that’s not quite so minimal and more approachable for most people, such as product from Salomon and Merrell,” says Jack Kirkham Jr., owner of Salt Lake City’s Kirkham’s Outdoor Products. “We’re looking for more casual in general because the more expensive heavyweight backpacking mar-ket has matured.” On the East Coast, Jamie Lipman, co-owner of New York City-based Tent & Trails, was in the unique position of having a large open-to-buy due to a recent flood in the store that ruined 9,000 pairs of shoes. “We’re looking for lightweight, casu-al footwear, interesting all-weather boots similar to Hunter but without the expensive price, and any other footwear with favorable pricing,” she says. “I especially like Aku, which is offering an all-leather hiking boot made in Romania that is retail priced at about $100.”

Overall, says Haroutunian, footwear buyers and brands remain cautious yet optimistic. “The vibe was as strong as I’ve ever seen it,” he says. —Judy Leand

FFANY: Good and PlentyTHE DOG DAYS of August in the Big Apple didn’t keep exhibitors or buyers at bay during FFANY (Aug. 1-3). More than 80 permanent showrooms and four full floors of the Hilton opened their doors to lead-ing fashion footwear buyers. FFANY President and CEO Joe Moore reported a low, but morale boost-ing double-digit bump in attendance from last sum-mer’s show and a more positive mood overall. “There is a feeling of excitement because buyers are finding new things,” he says. “It’s a lively market.” The liveli-ness manifested on the first night at a well-attended industry party where vendors and retailers caught up with each other and traded war stories.

In terms of Spring ’13 fashion trends, there was plenty to chat about. Clear heels and uppers from the likes of Donald J Pliner, Nina and Chinese Laundry set a glamorous tone, as did bold tropical prints, exot-ic mixed materials and slinky single-sole sandals. “Buyers were gravitating towards color and printed fabric,” reports Katie Justice, account executive for Butter and Something Bleu. “They enjoyed our caged uppers and leaf combinations—trendy styles on clas-sic silhouettes.”

Pointy-toe flats and single-sole pumps were a perfect canvas for a number of trends, including statement-making metallics and mirror-like accents.

Metallic cap toes and smatterings of studs were spot-ted throughout the show. Color ran the gamut from neon brights, such as Butter’s playful mix of hot pink, lime and yellow and Bernardo’s more subdued pair-ing of neon with rich brown leather sandals to pas-tels with a wholesome ’50s vibe a la Restricted’s sweet espadrilles and wedges. Mikaila Koenig, spokesper-son for Obsession Rules and Modern Vice, noticed an even balance of styles and trends. “People don’t want just one trend so we worked hard to incorporate a number of looks,” she notes.

Hard to ignore—thanks to blowing up on style blogs—sneaker wedges were peppered throughout a broad range of collections. Koenig of Modern Vice, which is offering a complete line of Italian-made wedge sneakers, says buyers are finally coming around to the trend after seeing how it successful-ly trickled down from the high fashion world to the street. “It started with Isabel Marant, but now it’s a key style for fashion ‘It’ girls,” Hoenig says.

The early timing of FFANY also allowed retailers time to shop the market before making immediate commitments. “The fact is today buyers like to look two or three times before committing the majority of their budget,” Moore says. “It seems cumbersome, but that’s fashion. It’s always changing and no one wants to jump the gun and buy too far in advance.” As such, Moore says FFANY’s show dates for next August will once again fall during that first week. “We’re sticking to that time slot and so long as FN Platform stays two weeks apart from our dates, I think everyone will be happy,” he says. “The shows complement one anoth-er and it is just enough time for everyone to breathe between each.”

Justice agrees: “This show is always good and the format is consistent. Not only were we able to see retailers we currently work with but we were able to meet and work with new accounts.” In addition, Koenig reports that the New York locale brought out the media. “We spoke to a lot of editors on the last day, which is really important because our retailers are buying for girls that closely follow fashion blogs and magazines.”

As for how the market is faring right now, Moore believes most still don’t really know where the econ-omy stands. The executives he spoke with are trying to stick within budgets and refrain from becoming overly enthusiastic. “People are doing business, but it may not be at as a robust pace as they’d like it to be, but it’s not bad, either,” he says. With Macy’s open-ing its super shoe department inside its flagship and other department stores expanding their commit-ment to shoes, Moore says it’s cause for cautious opti-mism. “Shoes have the better end of the retail econo-my right now,” he says. “And when it comes down to it, the key is to have the right product at the right time.” —Angela Velasquez

ENKWSA: Fast CompaniesBILLED AS THE show for fast fashion plus all ele-ments of the footwear supply chain, the second edi-tion of ENKWSA’s reincarnation held at the Sands Expo & Convention Center in Las Vegas (Aug. 7-9)

Adidas

Birki’s

Intouch Footwear

Ugg Australia

Heart Soul



didn’t disappoint, according to David Kahan, president of the ENK Footwear Group.

“Attendance was up more than 15 percent ver-sus the February edition,” Kahan reports, adding that attendees now understand the show’s focus and what to expect. “They came prepared to do business,” he says, noting a second hall dedicat-ed exclusively to sourcing was added. “This was the largest, most comprehensive footwear sourc-ing exhibition in the U.S. as well as the biggest in the entire history of the WSA show.”

Many attendees were equally enthused with the format. “The show was excellent and I’m look-ing forward to next year,” states Feroz Jessani, president of Mochi Shoes. “It’s definitely a great show for us and I’ll definitely be back,” concurs Laura Locurto, footwear buyer for Cititrends. Adds Heather Jo Johnson, buyer for Karavel Shoes, “Education is key for buyers and the semi-nars were great.”

Regarding the seminars, Kahan says the top-ics were chosen to meet the immediate needs of attendees. “Amid such a challenging eco-nomic climate, people can’t afford to make as many mistakes and education is key,” he says. “Having industry experts make presentations like Matt Priest from Footwear Distributors & Retailers of America (FDRA), Tiffany Vasilchik from Materials Connection, Laurie Pressman from Pantone and a trend presentation from Lineapelle really gave attendees critical and rele-vant information that they could use when shop-ping the show.”

This show showcases rapidly growing market segments with respect to private label, discount and fast fashion. In fact, Kahan notes that more than 50 percent of all shoes currently sold in the U.S. are not traditional branded footwear and, in the South American region, where the show drew a large attendance, the percentage is even high-er. And in particular to fast fashion, Kahan points out that designer styles that previously were inter-preted at value price points 12 months later are now hitting discount chains at nearly the same time. “ENKWSA serves the unique needs of this business segment in a way that has not previously been met and that is why the response has been so positive,” he affirms. “It’s important to have a sin-gular focus for such a significant portion of their business.”

It’s also one of the reasons that many attend-ees were writing orders. “For many retailers this is the one market where they actually place vir-tually all of their seasonal buys, so it is impor-tant for them to make good use of their time and do business,” he says. Kahan reports many buyers were guardedly optimistic amid a difficult econ-omy. “As such, they are seeing greater demand for on-trend styling and fashion at value price points,” he notes.

That’s not to say there wasn’t time for a little unwinding at ENKWSA’s Olympic-themed open-ing night party that drew more than 600 attend-ees to sample food from all five continents. Kahan reports the soirée was a welcomed respite and

plans are in the works for another party for the show’s next edition, which has been moved up in the calendar to Jan. 29-31 to better accom-modate retailers’ buying schedules. “The dates have been moved to capture both in-season busi-ness as well as future bookings,” he says. In addi-tion, ENKWSA will expand its seminar series and move forward with its matchmaking program that assists retailers in connecting with emerg-ing suppliers as well as helping suppliers con-nect with sourcing contacts. Also, the addition of a Fast Apparel segment will be expanded. “Adding clothing was brilliant,” says Yossi Joseph, CEO of Famous Horse and VIM chains. “The stores who carry these shoes can now also buy their clothing right across the aisle.” —Greg Dutter

LAZR: The First Time WHEN JOHN RUFFO and his team start-ed making plans for the inaugural LAZR Show in Los Angeles more than a year ago, he had a vision of a 360-degree community, connecting exhibitors and retailers with consumers. Thus the first business-to-business and business-to-consumer show was born, complete with pop-up shop areas, including retailers WSS and Brigade, and various brands. “Not only did (for example) Seychelles get a chance to interact with consum-ers but they could also show retailers how they could build a pop-up shop in a retail store,” Ruffo explains.

The show took place Aug. 13-15 at LA Live’s South Park campus, and featured more than 75 brands, including N.Y.L.A., Badgley Mischka, Dolce Vita, ZiGiny and Alegria. Touches inspired by the City of Angels, including art and enter-tainment, were sprinkled throughout the show. And the 280-plus buyers enjoyed a kick-off event at the J.W. Marriott, which showcased the talent of Tony Lucca from The Voice, a screening of the Michael Jackson film This Is It and the facilities of South Park, which include over 16 restaurants, The Grammy Museum and Lucky Strike Lanes. “There was a sense of community and authen-ticity of putting other parts of our lives into the trade event itself, especially from a regional level,” Ruffo says.

While he notes that attendees enjoyed the vibe of the show, exhibitors could have benefit-ed from higher traffic. “It’s hard to draw buyers in and have them write orders like they do [at] other shows that have been in business for 75 years,” he says. Nevertheless, some attendees did well. “There were guys that didn’t write any busi-ness, and there were guys writing throughout the show,” he says. “ZiGiny wrote more business here than any other show in town.” He also cited sneak-er brands as being popular with buyers, particu-larly Energie and Ponic and Co., as well as dress-ier styles by Seychelles. “They’re like art piec-es unto their own,” he says of the latter. Aspiga’s laid-back, resort-feel sandals were also a big hit, as well as newcomer brand OTZ’s innovative casu-al and comfortable footwear featuring CorkTech footbeds. —M.B.

Keen

Butter

Kickers

Liliana

Dreams Footwear


RINA

LOOKS LIKE

Spring 2013

ADVERTORIAL

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Chooka


Aigle


Western Chief


Kamik


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3535

A GLIMMER OF SPARKLE AND

ENCHANTING ADORNMENT AWAKEN

THE SEASON’S DELICATE PASTELS.

P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y

T R E V E T T M C CA N D L I S S


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From left: Nicole jewel-embellished flat, Poetic Licence shoetie with beaded ornament, Jellypop gem-embellished sandal.




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From left: Jorge Bischo! peep-toe pump, Vogue iridescent loafer,

White Mountain metallic sandal.


Charles David iridescent snakeskin

stiletto.


41



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From left: Rialto metallic sandal, Delman ballet flat, Very Volatile cork wedge.

Fashion Editor: Angela Velasquez Hair and Makeup: JSterlingHair and Makeup Assistant: WWBrisbane MirzoModels: Allison and Tessa at Click Models



EDIT

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Designers take a walk on the wild side this spring.

EDITOR’S PICKS

OLCAY GULSEN

D E S I G N E R C H AT :

Jungle Love

from $300 to $1,200, with Gulsen citing the craftsmanship and time dedicated to make each shoe worthy of the pricing. “One of our biggest eye-catching designs is an over-the-top chain sandalette that is handmade in a very small Portuguese factory and takes 12 hours to make,” she notes. —Angela Velasquez

Where do you find inspiration? Mostly from clothing and buildings. I can fall in love with a neck detail and decide to translate it to an ankle strap. I also travel nonstop and sometimes it’s just breathtaking to see a super modern building in the middle of an old Chinese city that seems to have no connection to its environment.

Who is your target customer? A very strong woman that wants to stand out and knows fashion and quality. She is always elegant and dares to show her true colors.

Which footwear designers do you admire? Many, but now I have a Nicholas Kirkwood crush.

What is the most fashionable city? Shanghai is one of the most fast-moving and inspiring environments in the world. For art, fashion and culture, this is the must-see city every season.

What is your favorite season to design for? Fall. You can make nice boots and have a wider scale of leather choices.

What is the most difficult part of your job? Jumping into the next season and starting all over again. And finishing a collection is always very stressful.

What is the best part of your job? Traveling and visiting factories to see firsthand the results of my design process.

FOR DESIGNER OLCAY Gulsen, footwear is the icing on the cake to her eponymous line of red carpet-worthy dresses. “Making nice dresses without having the correct shoes to go along with them is like having dinner without dessert,” she says.

The Dutch designer got her first taste of design

importing international fashion labels, most notably the European line SuperTrash, taking the helm in 2009. Two years later, after expanding SuperTrash’s global reach, Gulsen stepped down and came out with her own line. Since 2011, her sky-high 7-inch stilettos—the first and only model in Gulsen’s initial collection—have been tempting stylish daredevils. “I actually designed them for myself and whenever I went out people on the street stopped me and wanted them,” she says. “So I put them in my collection. It all happened quickly and naturally.”

Signatures of the collection now include clean lines with refined details and accents, but it’s height makes the loudest statement. “Every time I start designing, I somehow end up making a super stiletto. I just can’t make anything flat,” she says.

The ready-to-wear line provides a foundation for her shoe designs, but footwear never takes a back seat. “We know that our shoes complement the collection so we work on both lines simultaneously,” Gulsen explains. “The right shoe shows your personality and tells the world who you are.”

Spring ’13 will include more bright colors inspired by the south of France in the early 1950s when avant-garde design was at its peak, as well as a pointy toe pump (without a platform) and a wedge that combines metal with suede. Suggested retail ranges

Sperry Top-Sider

Isola

Very Volatile

Rialto

FW_09_12_Shoe_Salon_01.indd 44 8/22/12 12:19 PM


KIDS

ATHLETIC

COMFORT

OUTDOOR

STREET

WORKWHEN YOU THINK of Italian-made men’s shoes, Bottega Venetta, Tod’s and Salvatore Ferragamo is a sampling of what springs to mind. You also think classic styles like loafers, wing tips and cap toes. But a running shoe or a work boot? Not so much. You Footwear is seeking to change that perception.

Launched in 2011, You (an acronym for Your Own Universe) is the brainchild of designer duo Alon Siman Tov (who honed his skills at Roberto Cavalli, Romeo Gigli and Levi’s Europe, to name but a few) and Max Bosio, an architect. Handmade in Italy, the brand blends the casual ease of sneakers with a touch of American urban-chic.

Nomad, the brand’s aptly named Spring ’13 collection, is a tribute to traveling and exploring the world through green-tinted glasses. Leathers are tanned with a vegetable base using naturally occurring tannins from trees, while recycled materials ranging from coarse weaves and old felt to curtains, military bedspreads, sheepskins and Killim oriental carpets are peppered throughout the collection. Prints span vintage camo and stripes to Navajo across three styles: a carry-over boot from fall updated with a new attitude; a reinterpretation of a classic ’70s running shoe; and a reworked boat shoe with a thicker sole for an urban twist. Wholesale prices range from $123 to $173.

One comment Bosio has repeatedly heard from U.S. retailers is that You is wearable, as styles can blend in easily with casual weekend wear. “Maybe you’re a finance guy—a younger guy—and during the day you have to wear a suit, but on the weekends you like to wear jeans and a white T-shirt with shoes that look different,” he says.

Contrary to popular belief, Bosio says Italians are not trendsetters. “If something does well in the U.S. then we will buy it and use it,” he shrugs, pointing out that European style is more classic than experimental. “Casual culture comes from the U.S., even sophisticated casual like J. Crew.” But Bosio says the Italians are great shoemakers and they can interpret those trends into great-looking casual shoes. “I’m not saying that the Portuguese, for example, don’t know how to make good shoes—because they do—but we have tradition,” he offers. “That’s the foundation of our brand: Taking the tradition of making good shoes and applying attitude and knowledge in a way that’s very contemporary and very modern.” —Lyndsay McGregor

SWEDISH FOOTWEAR COMPANY Gram is building up its business and launching a line of women’s shoes for spring. Fusing its cool Scandinavian aesthetic with a more seductive heel height, the Stockholm-based company transforms the classic clog into a fashion-forward and feminine take on a man’s shoe. “We’ve always sold shoes to women—they like to buy our shoes as unisex styles—but we were getting more and more requests for a narrow last so we thought ok, let’s do it seriously,” reveals CEO David Hedman. Thus, the 358g was born.

Centered on the concept of weight (that’s how each shoe get its name), its roots lie in the Scandinavian design aesthetic of clean lines and attention to detail. Like other Gram shoes, it’s double-lasted by hand and then attached to the artisan-constructed wooden outsole nail by nail, bringing out the best of the brand’s heritage. Full-grain leathers and natural cottons keep feet cool, while a 7-hole lacing ensures that the shoe adapts to the wearer’s every shape and curve. Three colorways cater to all tastes, from an all black patent leather to cognac and off-white suede with hand painted pumpor (pumpkin) and South Pacific-inspired hibiscus from family-owned textile company Jobs Handtryck. “They don’t do too many collaborations so we’re really proud that they like what we do with the fabrics. It’s mainly made for furniture so the print repeats, and that means each shoe is unique,” Hedman says.

Founded in 2005, Hedman believes Gram is just now hitting its stride. For men, muted colors of uniform blue and washed OD green serve as the backdrop for a saturated palette of coral reef fish, camouflage overlaid with bauhinia flower prints and monochromatic flashes of klein blue and electric orange. Drum dyed full-grain cowhide holds up the leather end of the collection in shades of chestnut, dark green and black. “It’s more of an evolution from what we’ve done before. We’ve fine-tuned a lot of our styles and we’ve brought in some new ones,” he says. “We’re trying to make a different shoe that’s a tribute to the past, but something new and interesting.” —L.M.

An eco-friendly Italian brand offers fresh takes on old favorites for men.

Gram pleases its female fans by adding platform clogs to its mix.

Worth the Weight

Global Reach

FW_09_UpClose_street_04.indd 45 8/27/12 3:09 PM


KIDS

ATHLETIC

COMFORT

OUTDOOR

STREET

WORK

SINCE IT WAS founded in 1976, Maine-based Acorn Products has been all about comfort. The brand first stepped into the spotlight with its Slipper Sock—an iconic style embraced by NASA astronauts and is now permanently displayed at the Smithsonian National Air and Space Museum. But lately, Acorn has been expanding into new footwear categories and is seeking a broader consumer base.

“Acorn was always a small, privately held company and it was chal-lenging for us to compete with bigger, well-funded brands. But since the acquisition [by Totes-Isotoner Corp. in December 2010], we’ve gotten new funding which has led to a brand evolution,” explains Sonya Purington, Acorn’s marketing manager. “Thanks to fresh products that are designed in accordance with consumer lifestyles and trends, and a new marketing campaign that is invigorating the brand, we are coming off our most successful year on record.”

Historically, Acorn has been a Q3/Q4 business with a high percentage of sales coming from holiday purchases. This is now starting to shift due to the launch of transitional footwear such as the Comfort to Go Lite sandal collection that addresses the “slip-per lifestyle,” and the Via by Acorn travel slipper shoe line that can go from “sleep to street,” both offered for Spring ’13. “The ‘slipper lifestyle’ is a broader category that has a more laidback, looser sen-sibility, whereas ‘sleep to street’ is a literal fashion trend,” Purington says. “The Via line blends a lightweight, packable sensibility with comfort, and the sandals provide good color, style and comfort and are also more durable to go outside.”

To help support the effort, Acorn kicked off a marketing campaign to the trade in January and will roll it out to consumers in September with a Facebook photo contest. The tagline, “Acorn. Love You,” posi-tions it as a feel-good brand. “The slippers are comfy and relaxing; they’re a hug for the foot,” Purington says. “The message to consum-ers is to treat yourself and love yourself with a pair of Acorns.” Re-garding consumers, Purington reports that Acorn is slightly refining its target demographic of 30- to 50-year-old women. “We are trying to slowly and carefully tick younger, 30 to 45, without alienating our core consumer,” she says. Currently, about 50 percent of Acorn’s line is designed for women, with 35 percent devoted to men and 15 percent to kids. During the month of December, the company will donate $1 from every pair of Acorns sold to the Boys and Girls Clubs of America.

For retailers, Acorn developed a POP program that boasts new headers, shelves and floor units, and is providing better market-ing and brand exposure, higher margins, and the right product mix for the market. “The response has been great,” Purington says. “It’s an exciting time. We’ve given a fresh voice and a strong face to the brand.” —J.L.

Acorn branches out with new products and messaging.

Spreading the Love

Ooh Yeah!With its patented foam technology, Oofos is built for “oohs” and “ahs.”

RENO, NV-BASED OOFOS may be new on the footwear scene, rolling out into the marketplace last January, but its founders are industry veterans hailing from such athletic powerhouses as Reebok, Nike, Bata Shoe, Adidas and Stride Rite. What sets the brand apart from its competitors is a compound called OOfoam, a closed-cell material that is formulated to absorb shock and reduce fatigue while allowing the foot to naturally articulate to the ground while walking. The result, which the company calls “OOfeel,” is a recharging and rejuvenating effect.

“Our product is positioned as footwear that makes you feel better,” says Lou Panaccione, who specializes in operations, development and sourcing. “It’s an athlete recovery product that’s also good for people with foot issues. Our patented OOfoam, which we spent four years developing with a team of experts, absorbs impact and offers instant comfort. It’s flexible, lightweight, durable and machine washable. And because the foam is soft, it can accommodate any arch type.” Panaccione also points out that OOfoam doesn’t absorb water, which makes the footwear ideally suited for the surf and outdoor markets.

Currently, the Oofos line consists of two styles, the OOahh Slide and OOriginal Thong, retail priced at $39.95 and $49.95, respectively, and are available for men and women. In November, the company will introduce a third model, the closed-toe OOclog, which will sell for $49.95. “Next year, we will expand the line with a focus on more women’s-specific styles and more closed-toe products,” Panaccione says.

Regarding distribution, Oofos footwear is now in more than 400 stores across 47 states. The company is testing the brand in Europe and intends to enter international markets next year. On the marketing side, the company is targeting a grassroots audience and has enlisted “OOficials” to spread the message at yoga studios, health clubs and running events. The brand also had a presence at major gatherings including the National Strength and Conditioning Expo, the National Yoga Convention and the Boston Marathon Expo. “We want to make a point of going where consumers are who will appreciate the product,” Panaccione says. —Judy Leand

FW_09_UpClose_outdoor_03.indd 46 8/22/12 12:23 PM

different regions. You couldn’t do that 20 years ago. So I think as they continue to build their infrastructure the industry will largely remain there. I don’t envision a mass industry exodus any time soon.

What would you consider C-Merit’s greatest asset? Is it speed?I would say our ability to listen and react quickly is a very attractive asset. We don’t have to wait for four or five people to get back to you in order to make a decision. We empower our team to make those decisions quickly. That and our knowledgeable rep force. Our representation has to be our eyes and ears because I can’t be everywhere. We’ll travel to pretty much any-one who will see us. And when we set up shop in their respective locations we always ask them what they think. We want their feedback. And, having been a buyer, we hope they appreciate the fact that you never know what the next big brand is going to be. That’s why I always made it a point to try and see everyone. Unfortunately, not as many buyers today are willing to cover as much ground.

As a former buyer, any advice you might have beyond looking?Buyers need to not be afraid to try something new. The fact is with respect to many stores today you can walk in and if it wasn’t for the name outside you wouldn’t know which was which. People say there is safety in numbers, but if everyone is carrying the same stuff they will all either have success together or fail together. In the meantime, they’re guaranteed to experience price compression because one guy is going to find a way to be priced lower than the other. That’s why retailers who may not carry the big brands can still be successful because they offer a unique selection and provide great service in a cool environment. JCPenney, for example, is making changes. And while they are catching hell for some of it, at least they are trying rath-er than stand pat, which was not working.

Evolve or die, right?Retailers must define and work within their strengths. They should find a niche and continue to perfect it. And it would help to really listen to what consum-ers are saying because, for example, there are many categories that are growing that brick-and-mortar retailers don’t even touch. But if they decide to get into it they might do extremely well.

Like what?Slip-resistance shoes, for example. Look at the growth behind that cat-egory and yet many retailers still don’t even bother to carry them. Look at e-commerce sites and how many retailers still don’t have a web site where they can fulfill orders. There are some big-name companies that still don’t. It’s those types of programs that they need to do if they are going to stick around.

What’s your biggest goal for the remainder of this year?To continue to tell people who we are. Retailers are increasingly coming into our booths at shows, thanks, in part, to advertising in publications like yours, and are checking us out. Product placement is the biggest challenge. The more we can place orders, the more awareness will be created, and then an increase in demand follows.

What do you love most about your job?The people. I’ve been fortunate to have had worked with some unbeliev-ably talented people—from buyers to top-level executives—where none of us would be where we are at today without each other. Unfortunately, some of them are aging out of the industry. I just hope that the next generation com-ing through understands that it’s a give-and-take business and not always about the money. Also, that it’s a great industry with great people in it. •

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Sept. 7-9 | MN

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Sept. 8-12 | OR

SMOTA

Sept. 9-11 | FL

BSTA

Sept. 9-11 | NH

Syracuse Show

Sept. 23-24 | NY

B&STA

Sept. 23-24 | NJ

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Heels on Wheels

LAST WORD

KEEP ON TRUCKIN’

SARAH ELLISON LEWIS was bored with the retail experience, leading her to create something new, exciting and different: a shoe store on wheels. Bootleg, based in Austin, TX, is a 1969, 31-foot land yacht Airstream aluminum trailer turned shoe store that stays, for the most part, parked on South Congress Avenue between a local brunch spot and a hotel. “There’s a lot of wonderful foot traffic,” Lewis offers.

While Lewis pays rent for the parking space, she owns the trailer. “I wanted to get a cool truck, pay cash for it, keep it as an asset and trick it out,” she says. She stripped the inside and decorated it with handmade wallpaper created from vintage photographs and people’s “leave behinds,” such as business cards or notes. Vintage cording and heritage bulbs accent the space, complete with a herringbone carpet. Custom benches that sit on the top of the wheel wells provide seating for customers and the windows are secured with hog wire.

This type of décor makes Lewis feel right at home as she grew up on a Texas ranch showing cattle and horses competitively. “It taught me the value of a very strong work ethic,” she says. Combined with these skills is her stylist experience, including a 10-year stint in New York, which she utilizes to run this off-beat shopping experience that her customers crave. “I’m kind of doing the anti-retail,” she says. “It’s really about the experience with an authentic narrative, and being kind to people no matter what they want to buy.”

Lewis travels once a year to Paris and Las Vegas to suss out new brands and styles, and keeps an eye on her favorites. The trailer can hold 425 pairs of shoes and she chooses about 50 different styles. “I have a very curated selection,” Lewis says of her offerings. She counts Esquivel, Laurence Dacade, LD Tuttle, Raphael Young, J Shoes, Senso and Messeca as part of Bootleg’s selective assortment.

The trailer is open from September to July and closes during the Lone Star state’s hottest six weeks of the year, which Lewis uses to do some cleaning and renovating, and to stock up on next season’s selections, which can take all year to sell. “I had a high boot that was about $1,065 and it took me eight months to sell through my pack,” she says. “They don’t go on sale.”

Lewis says plenty of her customers are willing to shell out the big bucks to own a piece of unique, hard-to-find fashion. “The one customer that is super inspired and will do anything to have that shoe is the one we always delight the most. That’s our customer. We don’t do practical,” she says. She counts a base of about 250 women as regulars, noting that these Bootleg fanatics have first dibs on the new season’s selection when it re-opens in September. And if they aren’t able to visit during business hours on Friday, Saturday or Sunday, Lewis will set up appointments for her VIPs.

While Bootleg usually stays put, Lewis plans on taking her shoe trailer on a U.S. tour to various cities this fall, starting on the West Coast, traveling to the East Coast and ending the trip down south. “I think it’ll be cool and funny to show up in someone’s town with a trailer full of shoes,” she says. To find out more information about Bootleg go to facebook.com/Bootlegaustin. —Maria Bouselli

Bootleg, a converted Airstream trailer, revs up the boutique shopping experience.

Clockwise from top left: the Bootleg Airstream trailer; owner Sarah Ellison Lewis; shopping bags; shoes from Lewis’ curated selection; customers check out the goods inside.

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Documents

Footwear Plus | The Source for Retailers | 2012 • September