Footwear Plus | April/May 2015

APRIL/MAY 2015 VOL. 25 ISSUE 4 $10

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SIMON SINEK SAYS DO THIS • THE SNEAKER RAGE AGE • MOVING TO THE BEAT OF A HIP-HOP NATION • THE SEX AND THE CIT Y EFFECT

PRECIOUS METALDESIGNERS MINE SILVER FOR FALL



THIS JUST IN: AT COACHELLA • WHY GRUNGE NEVER GETS OLD • TREND SPOTTING: PEWTER PRINCIPLE • COMFORT EVOLUTION

IT’S ALL WHITECLEAN, COOL KICKS RULE

BLAKE KRUEGERAMANDA CABOT BOB INFANTINO

ANGEL MARTINEZ TAREK HASSAN JOE OUAKNINE

MIKE SORABELLAAND OTHERS REFLECT ON


25 YEARS OF INDUSTRY HIGHS, LOWS,

TRENDS, TRIUMPHS, HOPES AND DREAMS


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OPENING NIGHT INDUSTRY EVENTTuesday, June 2nd: Brasserie 81⁄2Event details & tickets at FFANY.ORG

SAVE THE DATES:August 4–6, (Tuesday–Thursday)December 2–4, (Wednesday–Friday)

June 2–4, 2015TUESDAY–THURSDAYNew York Hilton Midtown & Member Showrooms

Shop FFANY 365 days a yearFFANY365.COM

@ffanyshoeshow

Congratulates Footwear Plus On Their 25thAnniversary

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Congratulations to Footwear

Plus on 25 years!

- your friends at Washington Shoe Company


FOOTWEAR PLUS ™ (ISSN#1054-898X) The fashion magazine of the footwear industry is published monthly (except for bimonthly April/May and October/November editions) by Symphony Publishing NY, LLC, 36 Cooper Square, 4th fl., New York, NY, 10003-7118. The publishers of this magazine do not accept responsibility for statements made by their advertisers in business competition. Periodicals postage is paid in New York, NY, and additional mailing offices. Subscription price for one year: $48.00 in the U.S. Rates oustide the U.S. are available upon request. Single copy price: $10.00. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to FOOTWEAR PLUS, P.O. Box 8548, Lowell, MA 01853-8548. Publisher not responsible for unsolicited articles or photos. Any photographs, artwork, manuscripts, editorial samples or merchandise sent for editorial consideration are sent at the sole risk of the sender. Symphony Publishing NY, LLC, will assume no responsibility for loss or damage. No portion of this issue may be reproduced without the written permission of the publisher. ©2008 by Symphony Publishing NY, LLC. Printed in the United States.

8 Publisher’s Letter 10 Editor’s Note 12 This Just In 20 Trend Spotting 56 Trend Spotting 84 Last Word

A P R I L / M AY 2 0 1 5Caroline Diaco Publisher

Greg Dutter Editorial Director

Nancy Campbell Trevett McCandliss Creative Directors

EDITORIAL Tara Anne Dalbow Fashion Editor

Kirby Stirland Associate Editor

Lauren Fusilier Assistant Editor

Kathy Passero Editor at Large

Melodie Jeng Contributing Photographer

Judy Leand Contributing Editor

ADVERTISING/ PRODUCTION Jennifer Craig Associate Publisher

Capri Crescio Advertising Manager

Tim Jones Deputy Art Director Production Manager

Allison Kastner Operations Manager

Bruce Sprague Circulation Director

Joel Shupp Circulation Manager

Mike Hoff Digital Director

OFFICES Advertising/Editorial 36 Cooper Square, 4th fl. New York, NY 10003 Tel: (646) 278-1550 Fax: (646) 278-1553 editorialrequests@ 9Threads.com

Circulation 26202 Detroit Road, #300 Westlake, OH 44145 Tel: (440) 871-1300 [email protected]

Corporate 9Threads 26202 Detroit Road, #300 Westlake, OH 44145 Tel: (440) 871-1300

Xen Zapis Chairman

Lee Zapis President

Rich Bongorno Chief Financial Officer

Debbie Grim Controller

PA G E

64

Cover photography by Trevett McCandliss. Cover one: model: Noelle Heffernan. Cover two: Blouse from Southpaw Vintage, Screaming Mimi’s suspenders. Styling by Kim Johnson/Altered Agency; hair and makeup by Alfred Lester/Utopia; model: Margarita/Q Model Management Cover three: Ccilu sneakers with sock lining, suit by Club Monaco, Gap T-shirt; styling by Tara Anne Dalbow; grooming by Enid Seymore; model: Miles/Red Model Management.

16 Simon Says TED-approved leadership expert Simon Sinek shares five strategies

for success. By Kathy Passero

18 Life of a Salesman Remembering Earth Brands’ consummate salesman,

Daniel Silver. By Greg Dutter

22 The Covers The changing face of Footwear Plus over 25 years.

24 Q&A List We asked, you answered: a compendium of conversations

with more than 200 indsutry leaders.

26 Home, Sweet Home Industry executives from across the globe

reminisce about their roots.

30 Design Inspiration 25 years of designer wit and wisdom quoted in

Footwear Plus.

32 Sex (and the City) Sells The hit HBO series was a game-changer for the

industry. By Tara Anne Dalbow

34 Leader of the Pack Wolverine Worldwide CEO Blake Krueger: the

quintessential industry executive. By Greg Dutter

36 Comfort Zone Feel-good footwear’s evolution of style. By Kirby Stirland

40 Cool Like That Tarek Hassan, co-owner of The Tannery and Concepts, on the art of selling

cool. By Greg Dutter

42 Kick It Performance, retro and luxe—the sneaker is king. By Kirby Stirland

44 Grunge is Good Why the ’90s-era look lives on. By Tara Anne Dalbow

47 Do the Right Thing The principles of corporate good à la Amanda Cabot,

CEO of Dansko. By Greg Dutter

48 The Source Deckers Brands CEO Angel Martinez: brand builder and

job creator. By Greg Dutter

50 Street Beats Hip-hop stars lend street cred to iconic styles. By Lauren Fusilier

52 Rules of Thumb Timeless truths of retail to live by.

54 The Finer Things Bob Infantino, CEO of Drydock Footwear, has made a

career out of accenting the special details. By Greg Dutter

55 Ladies’ Man Joe Ouaknine, CEO, Titan Industries, on a career of hits, misses and wishes. By Greg Dutter

58 White Noise Crisp white kicks are understated yet impactful when paired

with classic looks. By Tara Anne Dalbow

64 Silver Streak Lustrous metallics make sleek, feminine heels extra eye-

catching. By Tara Anne Dalbow

74 Looking Good A sampling of the more than 40 editorial design excellence awards Footwear Plus has earned in just

the past decade alone.

75 Comfort Classics The origin stories of four mega-styles born in the last

25 years: the SAS Duo, the Jungle Moc by Merrell, Dansko’s Professional

and the Newport by Keen.

76 Retail Register ShoeBuy CEO Mike Sorabella on why online retailing

is winning big. By Greg Dutter

Klub Nico metallic ankle boots.

25 LIMITED EDITION colors in one of our

most popular sandals.

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SASshoes.com

From one silver anniversary to another.

Now Available

Congratulations


A FEW MONTHS AGO, we began putting together our 25th anniver-sary issue, which you are current-ly holding or reading on a screen. (My, how times have changed!) Assembling all the magazines was step No. 1. It included close to 250 issues, sorted by year in separate piles. They covered two large desks in our offices. When I walked past, Editorial Director Greg Dutter point-ed to the piles and kidded, “There’s your life.”

For a healthy portion, it has been. Footwear Plus launched in 1990 and I joined the company in 1993. Mathematically speaking, that amounts to nearly half of my life! It’s a long time, but it hasn’t felt long. The seasons and the collections have come and gone, but the pace of our industry has never slowed. There’s always a “next season” and with that come new opportunities, hopes, ideas, concepts and, of course, shoes. We, as an industry, are constant-ly moving forward, despite obsta-cles and a never-ending battle for the consumer’s discretionary dol-lar. Season after season, we find ways to progress, which means publish-ing a magazine covering this dynamic industry has never been dull or stag-nant. I thank you all for that.

I have thoroughly enjoyed becom-ing a part of the footwear industry. I have the pleasure of interacting with executives on a daily basis, discuss-ing their new brand and retail ini-tiatives, their trials and tribulations, and their success stories. Theirs are the industry conferences and trade shows I attend regularly. I’ve enjoyed countless dinners and social gath-erings with industry members, and I’ve made many close friends over the years—all of whom speak “footwear.” They live and breathe this indus-try every day. I could have wound up publishing a magazine about any number of industries, but I doubt any would have been as creative and beautiful as this one.

For the record, I love all kinds of shoes in all sorts of silos, colors and materials. Flats, boots, sandals, sneakers, slides, stilettos—I’ve rocked them all. Athletic, comfort, dress, cowboy, outdoor, work, couture…my tastes are as eclectic as the mar-ket is broad. I’m always receptive to the next great shoe or trend because, after nearly two decades immersed in this business, I know that what’s new and noteworthy is often worth a try.

In fact, our job at Footwear Plus is to showcase what’s new and notewor-thy across the footwear spectrum. It’s not our place to like or dislike a par-ticular shoe. (We leave that expert decision-making to buyers.) Instead, we embrace all trends, concepts and categories, because you never know who might become the next Ugg, Skechers or Zappos. We’ve covered numerous success stories during the past 25 years. We’ve spotlight-ed brands that showed up with little more than a few samples on a table-top at a show and, within a few sea-sons, rocketed into hundreds of mil-lions in annual sales. And we’ve cov-ered retail formats that seemed far-fetched at first blush but went on to set a new standard for shoe shopping to the tune of billions.

Footwear Plus has given you a ringside seat to all the action for a quarter of a century and counting. Our insights, analyses and opinions are a trusted and respected indus-try voice. Our creative is inspiration-al, stunning and—to my team’s cred-it—spot-on. You deserve nothing less in a trade publication. And with an estimated $60 billion up for grabs in U.S. retail footwear sales each year alone, I’m confident the future holds no shortage of great success stories to be featured in our pages. It’s why we love our work. And to love a “job” for 22 years is a blessing. Thank you all for allowing me into this wonderful extended footwear family.

Taking StockA life well shod and well lived.

—Caroline Diaco, Publisher

P U B L I S H E R ’ S N O T E

Giving Thanks

The One, The Only, The Original!

Congratulations to Footwear Plus on

25 Years!

OPENING NIGHT INDUSTRY EVENTTuesday, June 2nd: Brasserie 81⁄2Event details & tickets at FFANY.ORG

SAVE THE DATES:August 4–6, (Tuesday–Thursday)December 2–4, (Wednesday–Friday)

June 2–4, 2015TUESDAY–THURSDAYNew York Hilton Midtown & Member Showrooms

Shop FFANY 365 days a yearFFANY365.COM

@ffanyshoeshow

Congratulates Footwear Plus On Their 25thAnniversary

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10 footwearplusmagazine.com • april/may 2015

E D I T O R ’ S N O T E

Journalism Schooling

TWENTY-FIVE YEARS ago—the year Footwear Plus made its debut—I was in the first year of my journalism career. I was toiling away for a local weekly newspaper in north-east New Jersey. As the lone staff writer, I covered government, school board meetings, zoning board meetings, the police blotter, busi-ness news, politics, civic events, retirements, obits, holiday happenings, local heroes…if it

was newsworthy in this suburban town of about 40,000 residents, I reported on it for the West Orange Chronicle.

I loved the job. It offered variety, excitement and, back then, it was pretty much the only media game in town. There were no blogs or social media outlets, and the bigger newspapers covered the town sporadically, superficially and usually just when there was really bad news. The platform granted to me was enormous, relatively speak-ing, for a person with less than one year’s experience. It was sink-or-swim journalism, and I often felt as though I was clomping around in cement shoes during those days.

Take my first zoning board meeting, for example. The discussion was about whether a proposed condominium development had too many units crammed into too small an area. Esoteric issues like impervious surface coverage, sewage line capacities and traffic flow patterns were being bandied about fast and confusingly. I broke into a sweat, wondering whether I would find any story hidden in all the technical mumbo jumbo. (My deadline was later that night and there was no Google to save me.) That’s when I came across “The Shark” and my journalistic epiphany.

The Shark was the developer’s attorney. A fit and trim man in his mid-40s, he was dressed in a much nicer suit than the board mem-bers, sported a terrific tan in the dead of winter and had a full head of perfectly coiffed hair. When a board member strolled by dur-ing a break and asked how he was, The Shark snapped, “Great. You know me, Phil. I’m a shark. Always swimming.” What a character, I thought. And that’s when it hit me: Focus on the people—the “who” in every story. You can’t forget the other tenets of reporting (what, where, when, why and how), but people are at the center of nearly every story. They are the catalysts, protagonists, egomaniacs, sharp dressers, heroes, leaders, newsmakers and sharks. They are the best

sources for information and answers. The revelation gave me an angle from which to attack every subject I have covered since, no matter how complex.

This leads to my being Editorial Director of Footwear Plus and author of this column for nearly 20 years. I have never designed, manufactured or shipped a pair of shoes. Heck, I’m pleased when I get myself through customs, never mind getting a container load of shoes through. I have never owned, operated or worked in a shoe store. (For the record, I worked retail in a butcher’s shop for four years and learned that, regardless of whether you are slinging chops or Chukkas, many of the same customer service rules apply.) I’m far from a qualified retailer. I find a lot of my daughter’s 7th grade math challenging, so planning open-to-buys, balancing the books, manag-ing inventory turns, negotiating leases and handling other aspects of running a retail operation would prove daunting for me. I would probably do everything wrong.

Instead, I’m a journalist. It’s my job to listen, ask the right ques-tions and get the story straight—then write about it in a clear, accu-rate, informative, helpful and entertaining way. The last is the secret sauce, because no one wants to read boring articles, no matter how much research went into them. Looking back on nearly 250 issues as we put together our 25th commemorative industry retrospec-tive, I can say with confidence that our editors have touched on nearly every meaningful theme, issue, category, trend and debate that arose in the past two and a half decades. And we have—since Vol. 1, Issue 1—done so in vivid color, spectacular design and enter-taining prose.

Of course, none of it would have been possible without you—the experts—who have been our most valuable resource. This magazine couldn’t exist without your input and analysis, not to mention the brands and stores you create. A heartfelt thanks for making it all possible. Your creativity, intelligence and passion are inspiring. This dynamic industry offers endless variety and excitement for a jour-nalist. Most fascinating of all are the people I write about. Getting to know you has been my biggest job reward.

THE HEART OF THE

Behind every shoe, brand and storefront are talented people who make it all happen—and bring our magazine to life.

Greg Dutter Editorial Director


T H I S J U S T I N

Platforms, gladiators and western boots, oh my!

Coachella Festival-goers rocked them all.

Photography by Nicole Comeau

VALLEY OF THE DOLLS

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25 YEARS AGO

SINCE 1990

Dansko, Dansko and the Wing Design, and the W

ing Design are all trademarks of Dansko, LLC. ©

2015 Dansko, LLC. 1.800.326.7564.O

ther names and brands m

ay be claimed as the property of others.

1990Dansko and Footwear Plus both

begin their incredible journey’s

2007Footwear Plus launches first Going

Greener issue and Dansko becomes

founding footwear member of B Corp

2011Dansko wins NSRA Vendor of The Year

while Footwear Plus is recognized

with 15 national awards for design and

photography excellence

1994Dansko moves off the horse farm

and into dedicated office space

while Footwear Plus continues to

expand its reach

2010Footwear Plus sponsors Two Ten’s

Footwear Cares volunteerism campaign

while Dansko employees participate in 32

volunteer opportunities

2013Footwear Plus recognizes Dansko

with its Best Customer Service award2015Footwear Plus and Dansko

celebrate 25 years of

innovation and inspiration

2004Dansko receives its 1st of 8 Excellence in

Design awards from Footwear Plus

FOOTWEAR PLUS

1st Place


14 footwearplusmagazine.com •april/may 2015

T H I S J U S T I N

Sturdy and sporty: Parisians pound the pavement in comfortable joggers, Docs and block heel booties.

Photography by Melodie Jeng

TRèS PRACTICAL

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WIDELY HAILED AS a visionary thinker, Simon Sinek teaches leaders and companies how to inspire their people and build orga-nizations where employees feel fulfilled and happy. This, he says, is the most effective way to create a lasting and successful business.

Sinek is an adjunct member of RAND Corporation, one of the world’s leading think tanks, and the author of two bestselling busi-ness books—Start With Why: How Great Leaders Inspire Everyone To Take Action and Leaders Eat Last: Why Some Teams Pull Together and Others Don’t. A popular public speaker, Sinek has shared his inno-vative ideas with The United Nations, the U.S. Congress, senior leaders in the U.S. military and numerous Fortune 500 com-panies. His “Start With Why” talk at the 2009 TED (Technology, Entertainment, and Design) conference has become the second-most-watched talk of all time on Ted.com. To date, it has gotten nearly 22 mil-lion views on YouTube.

In the latest installment of the Footwear Network Series, Sinek offers five action-able ways to apply his methods to foot-wear retailing.

1) Know what you stand for. Then tell your customers. At the heart of Start With Why is the prem-ise that people don’t buy what you do; they buy why you do it. In other words, “People are drawn to organizations and brands that stand for what they stand for, that represent the same values and core beliefs they hold,” he says. Apple is the perfect example, in Sinek’s opinion. Apple never says, ‘We make great computers. They’re user friendly, beautifully designed and easy to use. Want to buy one?’ Instead, they say, ‘With everything we do, we aim to challenge the status quo. We aim to think differently. Our products are user friendly, beautifully designed and easy to use. We just happen to make great com-puters. Want to buy one?’

“The thing that distinguishes you from your competitors is what you stand for,” Sinek explains. “Why do you exist? Why did you open your store or start your com-pany in the first place? What was so important that you felt it was worthwhile to take the unbelievable risk, against overwhelming odds of failure, to start your own store? If it’s a family company, is it about upholding a legacy? Was there a problem you couldn’t find a solution to anywhere, so you had to solve it yourself by opening a store?”

Sinek says CEOs and store owners often tell him they stand for things like qual-ity, value and good service. “Those are just things you offer,” he says. “You don’t stand for them. They’re not your core beliefs.”

Once you pinpoint your “why,” everything else stems from it—from the people you hire to the colors you paint your store walls to your advertisements to the expe-rience you create for your customers. “Everything should convey that purpose,

Five strategies for success from business innovator and leadership

expert Simon Sinek.

FOOTWEAR NETWORK SERIES PRESENTED BY DECKERS BRANDS

Simon Says

BY K AT H Y PA S S E RO

STYLE FILE: SIMON SINEK

How would you describe your overall sense of style? I’m preppy. I wouldn’t call myself a slave to fashion, but I definitely have my own way of putting things together.What’s your favorite shoe style? I range across the whole board, from sneakers to boots. I like things that are very, very tradi-tional like brogues and things that are fun. For instance, I just bought a pair of brick-colored shoes. I call them my red shoes. In terms of comfort, I love Ugg—not the fuzzy boots, but their other styles. Do you have a current or all-time favorite book? One of my favorites is Turn the Ship Around!: A True Story of Turning Followers into Leaders by L. David Marquet. Even though it’s about a submarine, it really explains how you can completely turn a culture around and give people control. It’s fan-tastic for retailers.Do you have a motto? My personal motto is “Inspire someone every single day.” It’s written on my bathroom mirror, so I look at it every morning. There’s also a great quote by Henry Ford that says, “Whether you think you can, or you think you can’t, you’re right.”

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sourcing at magic opens august 16magiconline.com/Register-NowLas Vegas & Mandalay Bay Convention Centers

Find it here.AUGUST 17–19, 2015

&

years

congratulate

on

25


I N M E M O R Y O F D A N I E L S I L V E R

B Y G R E G D U T T E R

L I F E O F A S A L E S M A N

FULL DISCLOSURE: DANIEL Silver, who passed away suddenly last month at age 42, had been an honorary editor at Footwear Plus for years. Whenever I was in need of a good retail profile recommendation, all I had to do was shoot Danny an e-mail and, within an hour, he would send back a list of more than enough. They were always great suggestions, which weren’t just based on whether they were accounts of his or an attempt to curry favor with a potential new account. They were excel-lent recommendations based purely on the merits that made these retailers worthy of a profile in our magazine. They stood out for their service, décor, format, passion, determination and success. The recommendations spanned retailing vet-erans, up-and-comers, mom-and-pop operations and nota-ble chains. They were located in small towns and big cities across the country. Danny believed they were stories that needed to be told as a way for all retailers—big and small—to learn and be inspired. Rather than wallowing in all that was wrong with the business, Danny preferred to focus on the success stories and how they could be an impetus for help-ing achieve a greater good.

Danny knew which retailers to profile because he knew the business inside and out. For starters, the shoe business was in his blood. His father, Barry, is the owner of Brill’s Comfort Shoes in San Bernardino, CA. Danny grew up learning firsthand the trials, tribulations and triumphs of being an independent shoe retailer. And as a sales rep of 20 years (first with Birkenstock and, beginning five years ago, with Earth Brands), he met with many such retailers countless times on their turf, running trunk shows, leading sales presentations and getting to know the people behind

the storefronts. Danny was a fixture at trade shows and industry confer-ences, including the USRA’s annual May Event, of which he was viewed as an honorary mayor of sorts. He’d tirelessly work the various seminars, breakout discussions and cocktail parties, always helping facilitate the con-versation between wholesalers and retailers. Danny, the consummate sales professional, was all about building meaningful, long-lasting relationships.

He wasn’t just “selling” you. He was as much a part of the sale as the merchandise. With Danny, you got the whole package and he was in it for the long-term.

Gary Champion, CEO of Earth Brands, says that in his four decades of industry sales experience he has met only one per-son with such skills and talents—and that person was Danny Silver. “He just connected quickly with people,” Champion offers. “He had high energy, was always optimistic, always on the move, always building relationships and always treat-ing people very kindly and appreciatively.” Danny was one of Champion’s first hires at Earth Brands, which he made on the spot after being introduced by Gary Hauss, owner of the J. Stephens chain based in Westlake Village, CA. “He had the energy and intelligence levels you want working for you,”

Champion notes, which was key in the launch of new brands like Earthies. “We needed someone who had connections and who also wasn’t afraid to cold call. Danny just got out there and got on it. He never stopped. He just worked.” Champion adds that it was a labor of love. “He enjoyed meeting new people and building relationships. Some salespeople come off as insincere, but Danny was genuine. And it didn’t matter if you were a CEO of a $1 billion company or a guy working the floor of a small <83

Daniel Silver, West Coast regional sales manager for Earth Brands, was the consummate sales rep: positive,

friendly, resourceful, helpful, visible, knowledgeable, reachable (at all times), passionate and caring of every account.

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T R E N D S P O T T I N G

Precious KicksLustrous metal treatments raise the luxe factor.

1. Gabor 2. Gravity Defyer 3. La Canadienne 4. Capodarte

1

3

2

4

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TheCovers

The changing

face of Footwear Plus over the years.

3

1990

25years

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2015 april/may • footwearplusmagazine.com 23

2015

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1991 1. ROBERT MOORE, president, Bostonian Shoe Co.

2. GIB FORD, president, Converse

3. MICHAEL BECKWITH, general manager, Naturalizer

4. TOM CLARKE, VP of product marketing, Nike

5. BOB INFANTINO, senior VP marketing, Rockport

6. LIBBY EDELMAN, co-founder, Sam & Libby

7. MICHAEL BARTOS, executive VP, Hongson

8. BILL KIRKENDALL, president, Etonic, Tretorn and Puma

9. MICKEY SCHULMAN, president, U.S. Shoe Corp.

1992 10. MIKE VOGEL, president and CEO, Acme Boot Company

11. MARK GOLDSTON, president, L.A. Gear

12. RALPH LIBONATI, CEO, Libonati Shoes

13. PAUL HEFFERNAN, VP marketing, New Balance

14. STEVEN NICHOLS, president, K-Swiss

15. KENT WALL, president, Johnston & Murphy

16. STAN GLICKMAN, VP of marketing, Vans

17. JEFFREY SILVERMAN, founder, Toddler University

18. DOMINIC FERLAUTO, president, Keds Corporation

1993 19. JERRY COHN, president, Georgia Boot

20. TIMOTHY O’DONOVAN, president, Hush Puppies

21. JACK BIGGS, president, Brown Shoe Company

22. SUE AUTRY, president, Autry Industries

23. KENNETH COLE, president and founder, Kenneth Cole

24. STEVE FIREMAN, president, Boks

25. SIDNEY SWARTZ, CEO, Timberland

26. DOUG OTTO, president, Deckers Outdoor Corporation

27. TERRY MACKNESS, president, Hi-Tec

28. JEROME FISHER and VINCE CAMUTO, co-founders, Nine West Group

1994 29. MICHAEL GREENBERG, president, Skechers

30. PETER MOORE, CEO, Adidas

31. KENT ANDERSON, CEO, B.B. Walker Co.

32. KEN ANSIN, president and CEO, L.B. Evans

33. STEPHEN GRIGGS, director, R. Griggs Group

34. HOMER ALTICE, CEO, Ellesse

35. TSERING NAMGYAL, president, Pentland USA

36. JIM MOODHE, president, Guess Athletic

37. BOB RIEF, GM, Merrell

38. ANGEL MARTINEZ, president, The Rockport Company

1995 39. JERRY TURNER, CEO, American Sporting Goods

40. ROBERT SIEGEL, chairman, Stride Rite Corporation

41. BOB HOLLENBAUGH, senior VP sales and marketing, Rocky Brands

42. NATHALIE MARCIANO, creative director, Charles David

43. BOB and CAROL GOLDMAN, owners, Cels Enterprises

44. JONATHAN BOBBETT, managing director, Champion Footwear

45. NEIL COLE, CEO, Candies

46. BOB LIEWALD, GM, Fila

47. MICHAEL SAITOWITZ, president, Havana Joe

48. DAVID ALBAHARI, president, Cable & Co.

1996 49. CHARLES CAMPBELL, president and CEO, Florsheim

50. DAN WELLEHAN, president and CEO, Sebago

51. ROBERT CAMPBELL, chairman, BBC Intl.

52. GEOFF THOMPSON, president, B.U.M. Footwear

53. MICHAEL KNOWLES, president, Kiwi Brands

54. HERB ELLIOTT, president, Puma North America

55. JOHN DEEM, executive VP, Dexter Shoe Co.

56. LEE SMITH, president, Airwalk

57. STEVE MADDEN, CEO, Steve Madden

58. MARK ITZKOWITZ, CEO, Elicon Resourcing Group

1997 59. ANTHONY DIPAOLO JR., executive VP, Herman Survivors

60. ROGER BEST, senior VP and GM, Reebok

61. MARTIN BERENDSEN, CEO, Airwair Int. Dr. Martens

62. GARY SCHOENFELD, CEO, Vans

63. BOB INFANTINO, president, Clarks Companies N.A.

64. BRUCE MACGREGOR, president and COO, L.A. Gear

65. V. DEAN ESTES, president, Wolverine Footwear Group

66. RICK GAZZANO, president, A.D. One

67. BEN HARRIS, CEO, Genesco

68. JOHN FLUEVOG, CEO, John Fluevog

1998 69. BEN MILLER, president, Acme Boot Company

70. JIM DAVIS, CEO, New Balance

71. MARGOT FRASER, president, Birkenstock USA

72. PIERRE ANDRE SENIZERGUES, CEO, Sole Technology

73. ROBERT CHAVEZ, CEO, Etienne Aigner

74. HELEN ROCKEY, president and CEO, Brooks Sports

75. CHARLES CAMPBELL, chairman and CEO, Florsheim

76. CHRIS MORRIS, president, Soap Shoes

77. RICHARD MECKFESSEL, president, Mephisto USA

78. KENT ANDERSON, CEO, B.B. Walker Co.

1999 79. TOMMY MORRISON, president, Georgia Boot

80. PAUL GRIMBLE and BRUCE GINSBERG, co-presidents, Bennett Footwear Group

81. WERNER STEGMANN, owner, and RICK DAVIS, VP, Stegmann USA

82. RICHARD CARDOSO, VP sales, Rugged Shark

83. KATE and JANE WELLEHAN, VPs, Sebago Inc.

84. JEFFREY MANTELMAN, CEO, The Chadwick Group

85. RON FROMM, CEO, and GREG VAN GASSE, president, Brown Shoe Company

86. SAMMY SAFDEYE, president, and JEFFREY BERNSTEIN, manager, Avirex

87. MICHAEL BROOKS, CEO, Rocky Shoes & Boots

88. TOM ZENS and BRIAN HOLLINGSWORTH, senior VPs, T.T. Group

2000 89. JONATHAN CAPLAN, CEO, and JEFFREY BUA, senior VP, Hi-Tec Sports USA

25years


THE LIST

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90. TOM MCCLASKIE, president, Born

91. BENJAMIN JOHNSON, GM, Brenta

92. ANTHONY LOCONTE, president, JSP Footwear

93. DAVID MCGINNIS, GM, and ROBERT KIEL, marketing director, Bostonian

94. JOE PRESTON, DM, and BILL DODGE, national sales manager, Dunham

95. KILLICK DATTA, CEO, GBMI

97. HOWARD MAGUIRE, president, Durango

98. TERRY PILLOW, CEO, The Rockport Company

99. GUIDO VAN DEN BOS, GM, Camper

2001 100. RUTHIE DAVIS, VP, Simple and Ugg Australia

101. JEFFREY SWARTZ, CEO, Timberland

102. AMANDA CABOT, CEO, Dansko

103. TONY DELVECCHIO, VP, Buffalino USA

104. DAVID BOK, president, Hush Puppies

105. DAN WERREMEYER, president, Etonic

106. JORDIE SALIMAN, president, Univshoe

107. BRUCE PETTET, president, Airwalk

108. DAVID MASUR, president, Freeman and French Shriner

2002 109. MARTIN BERENDSEN, president, Cat Footwear USA

110. JIM WEBER, CEO, and CRAIG HEISNER, VP marketing, Brooks Sports

111. CHARLIE LIBERGE, VP, and VERN AISNER, marketing director, Earth Brands

112. MARY BONCUTTER, president, Sugar

113. JIM GABRIEL, president, Coach Footwear

114. DENNIS WALKER, president, National Geographic Footwear

115. JAN STIG ANDERSEN, president, Ecco USA

116. LAVETTA WILLIS, president, DaDa Footwear

117. TOM WILLIAMS, co-president, Elan-Polo

2003 118. A.T. PAYNE, GM, Harley-Davidson Footwear

119. RICK PATERNO, president, The Rockport Company

120. TERRY and POPPY FLETCHER, managers, Blundstone USA

121. DAVID SUDDENS, CEO, Dr. Martens

122. DOUGLAS OTTO, CEO, Deckers Outdoor Corp.

123. KEVIN LEVANGIE, president, KLX Designs

124. KEVIN MCCARTHY and JAY JACKSON, VPs, L.A. Gear

125. ANDREA TOMAT, director, Stonefly

126. TOM O’RIORDAN, CEO, Fila USA

2004 127. GARY SCHOENFELD, CEO, Vans

128. JOE OUAKNINE, CEO, Titan Industries

129. ANGEL MARTINEZ, CEO, Keen Footwear

130. JONATHAN and HAMED MOHSENI, co-presidents, Diverse/Guess Sport Footwear

131. SERGE GROBMAN, CEO, Dollhouse Footwear

132. COLIN BADEN, president, Oakley

133. JACQUES LAVERTUE, GM, Merrell/Sebago

134. R. SHAWN NEVILLE, president, Keds

135. LUIS CHICO, president, Hispanitas

136. DANIEL SCHWARTZ, president, Schwartz & Benjamin

2005 137. ANDREW RAGGATT, CEO, Emu Australia

138. SKIP ZIMMERMAN, president, Hush Puppies


140. JIM VAN DINE, CEO, Keen

141. ERIC TUAZON, president, G.O. Max, International

142. MICHAEL GREENBERG, president, Skechers

143. JIM MCCORMICK, president, The Frye Company

2006 144. DAVID SHARP, president, Rocky Brands

145. ANGEL MARTINEZ, CEO, Deckers Outdoor Corp.

146. FRED KING, marketing director, Lucchese Boot Co.

147. ALAN COLMAN, CEO, Atsco Footwear

148. TOM NELSON, CEO, Ecco USA

149. WAYNE ELSEY, CEO, Kodiak-Terra USA

150. LARRY TARICA, president, Jimlar Corp.

151. SAM EDELMAN, CEO, Sam Edelman

152. NATE LEBMAN, president, and JIM SIMPSON, national sales manager, Alegria

153. VINCE CAMUTO, CEO, Camuto Group

2007 154. JIM TOMPKINS, president, New Balance

155. TIMOTHY O’DONOVAN, CEO, Wolverine Worldwide

156. BOB INFANTINO, CEO, Clarks Companies N.A.

157. STEVE LAX, CEO, Naot

158. ADAM TUCKER, CEO, Me Too

159. MARIO POLEGATO, CEO, Geox


161. BILL LAROSSA, CEO, Primigi USA

162. GREG TUNNEY, CEO, R.G. Barry Corp.

163. MARC FISHER, CEO, Marc Fisher Footwear

2008 164. ROB MOEHRING, CEO, Washington Shoe Company

165. JEFF KELLEY, CEO, Sanuk

166. SHERI POE, CEO, MBT USA

167. PHILIP CHEMLA, CEO, Ed Hardy Shoes

168. SERGE GROBMAN, CEO, Dollhouse/Playhouse

169. LARRY SCHWARTZ, CEO, Aetrex Worldwide

170. TRAE SMITH, CEO, Bernardo Footwear

171. MATT DRAGOS, president, Rialto Shoes

172. RON MARTIN, CEO, Mephisto USA

173. MICHAEL KATZ, CEO, Matisse Footwear and Coconuts

2009 174. MICHEL MEYNARD, CEO, Earth Brands

175. PIETRO ROMANELLI, CEO, Italian Shoemakers

176. SCOTT SIBLE, GM, Merrell

177. DAVID MURPHY, COO, Red Wing Shoe Company

178. DAVID and AVI BEN-ZIKRY, co-owners, Spring

179. PETER WORLEY, president, Teva

180. GARY CHAMPION, CEO, Geox USA

181. DAN BAZINET, CEO, Birkenstock USA

182. TONY POST, CEO, Vibram FiveFingers

183. DAVID KAHAN, nat’l. sales manager, The Rockport Company

2010 184. EDWARD KANNER, CEO, Kanner Corp.

185. JOE OUAKNINE, CEO, Titan Industries

186. CHARLIE LIBERGE, CEO, Klas Shoes

187. SCOTT SAVITZ, CEO, Shoebuy

188. GREG CONNORS and KEVIN MANCUSO, partners, White Mountain Footwear



191. TOM ROMEO, CEO, Bearpaw

192. MARCIA KILGORE, CEO, FitFlops

193. JAMES MATUSH, GM, Restricted Footwear

2011 194. ROB MOEHRING, CEO, Washington Shoe Company

195. DAVID SHARP, CEO, Rocky Brands

196. STEVE LAX, CEO, Naot

197. BILL COMBS, CEO, Bogs Footwear

198. GARY CHAMPION, president, Earth Brands


200. ROB RASK, managing director, Ara Shoes N.A.

201. TREVOR DELMORE, VP of sales, Coogie Footwear


203. BILL LAROSSA, CEO, Primigi USA

2012 204. STEVE SEDLBAUER, CEO, Cougar Shoes

205. BOB INFANTINO, CEO, Drydock Footwear

206. LUKE CHEN, COO, Alegria

207. JOHN MCCARVEL, CEO, Crocs

208. BOB MULLANEY, president U.S. Operations, The Rockport Company

209. MATT JOYCE, president, Highline United

210. BLAKE KRUEGER, CEO, Wolverine Worldwide

211. DOUG VESLING, president, C-Merit Corp.

212. MICHAEL MUSKAT, president, Deer Stags

213. MARTIN BERENDSEN, CEO, Inuovo

2013 214. TOM BERRY, president, Tecnica USA

215. GREG TUNNEY, CEO, RG Barry Corp.

216. DAVID SHARP, CEO, Rocky Brands

217. TRACEY MCLEOD, president, BBC Int’l.

218. ADAM TUCKER, CEO, Me Too

219. STEVE LIBONATI, president, Ralph Libonati Co.

220. JOHN CAPLAN, CEO, Genesco Branded Group

221. MARK THATCHER, CEO, Sazzi Footwear

222. GLEN BARAD, president, Taos Footwear

223. DAVID KAHAN, CEO, Birkenstock USA

2014 214. BOB BRADFORD, senior VP of sales, Dr. Martens

215. MARC FANNING, COO, Consolidated Shoe Company

216. BOB INFANTINO, president, Drydock Footwear

217. RANDY WATSON, CEO, Justin Brands

218. KEITH GOSSETT, president, Easy Street Shoe Company

219. KEVIN BAILEY, president, Vans

220. JIM VAN DINE, president, Hoka One One

221. JOHN CARPENTER, owner, Island Slipper


223. DIANE BUTRUS, COO, Diba Imports

2015 224. ANTHONY DIKS, CEO, Wolky

225. LARRY PAPARO, CEO, LJP International

226. CHRIS GALLAGHER, CEO, Vionic Group

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FOOTWEAR PLUS Beautifully Written, Secretly Admired

CONGRATULATIONSon

25AMAZING YEARS

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years

HOME, SWEET HOME

16. Larry PaparoCEOLJP Int.Brooklyn, NYPlaying stickball on the street where the bases stretched from sewer to sewer and hanging out in L&B Spumoni Garden, where they make a square pizza like no other.

4. Rob Moehring CEO Washington Shoe CompanySeattle, WAWatching the Gold Cup hydroplane races.

10. Edward Kanner CEO Kanner CorporationMontreal, CanadaPlaying ice hockey on outdoor rinks in -20 degrees and rooting for the Montreal Canadians.

7. Diane Butrus COODiba ImportsSt. Louis, MOCardinals baseball games in the playoffs.

3. John Carpenter OwnerIsland SlipperWaterford, CARiding horses with my dad on our family’s ranch.

17. Kevin Bailey PresidentVansRiver Vale, NJPlaying with my friends on our bikes and not being tethered to an electronic device.

8. Randy Watson Chairman and CEO Justin BrandsHouston, TXFamily vacations a few hours north along the Blanco River—warm afternoons riding inner tubes in the clear rapids.

5. Bob Bradford Senior VP Dr. Martens USABillings, MTMy friends and I hopping on our bikes early in the morning, mooching popsicles off the milkman and being on our own until dinnertime.

6. Marcia Kilgore Founder and CEO FitFlopOutlook, CanadaLots of neighbor-hood kids, lots of Polish foods, great birthday parties and a steady and stable kind of love from my mum.

15. Kevin Mancuso PresidentWhite Mountain Newtown, MAMy first Red Sox game with my father. They played the Washington Senators.

12. Jon Caplan CEOGenesco Branded GroupAthens, TNMy parents ran an apparel store and I was the store mas-cot. I loved talking with the workers, reps and customers.

11. Steve Sedlbauer President Cougar FootwearBurlington, CanadaChristmas mornings, when one of my parents would hold their hands over my eyes before I could see the presents under our tree.

2. Michael GreenbergPresidentSkechersManhattan Beach, CAAttending the Hometown Fair and Holiday Cheer fire-works with my family.

9. Tony Post CEOTopo AthleticGolden, COSaturday mornings when I’d take the train to the Winter Park ski resort and my parents would drop me off with a bunch of kids and say, “Now make sure you catch the last train home.”

14. Amanda Cabot CEO DanskoHamilton, MALemonade stands in the small New England town.

1. Jim Estepa President and CEO The Journeys GroupSanta Clara Valley, CAEvery summer my friends and I would get up at dawn and go pick cherries, apricots and onions. We got paid by the bushel so it was a race to see who could make the most money. All that agri-cultural land I grew up on evolved into Silicon Valley—home to Apple, Facebook and Google. 18. Mike Sorabella

CEOShoeBuyStoneham, MAI remember vividly July, 4, 1976. There was a huge clambake held in one of our neighbors’ yards. We all chipped in, dug a wide and deep hole, added cobblestones and seaweed and cooked a full spread of lobsters and clams. The evening ended with fireworks in the street, which may not have been legal, but certainly made for a great show in our front yards.

13. Erica RussoFashion DirectorBloomingdale’s Syracuse, NYMy high school graduation. I was senior class marshal and led my class onto the field before the ceremony. My foot-wear needed to make a fashion statement—a gorgeous pair of black patent Mary Janes that had a classic feminine upper with an updated stacked high heel and aggressive sole. Very on-trend at the time! I wore them with white ankle socks and a pale pink baby doll dress with a Peter Pan collar.

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HOME, SWEET HOMEIn an industry that

spans the globe, executives look back on their hometown

roots and what they remember

most fondly.

29. Chris Gallagher President and CEOVionic GroupBrisbane, Australia Celebrating Christmas with my family recently. I hadn’t been back home in eight years and with what my mom had just been through (battling breast cancer) it was great to spend time with her, my brothers, sisters, nieces and nephews.

24. Joe OuaknineCEOTitan IndustriesCasablanca, MoroccoGoing to soccer matches with my dad to watch the pro team he managed.

25. Martin Berendsen Sales Director BackJoyDen Hagg, HollandCelebrating Sinterklaas, our version of Santa Claus, with special songs and candies.

19. Trevor Delmore Brand Director Synclaire BrandsLondon, EnglandGoing to a good Arsenal soccer match.

26. David Ben-ZikryCo-founderSpring FootwearTel Aviv, IsraelFriday afternoon picnics on the beach with our family, enjoying cold watermelon.

23. Mario Polegato FounderGeoxTreviso, ItalyThe harvesting of grapes. It was hard work, but there was a festive side to it.

28. Killick DattaCEO CciluMumbai, IndiaWalking from my home overlooking the Indian Ocean with friends and onto the beach in the evenings when the temperature was tolerable.

21. Phillip Chemla CEOEd Hardy ShoesParis, FranceI grew up in Paris and all my favorite memories are of my father.

22. David Sharp CEO Rocky BrandsRetford, EnglandIn order to get to school I rode a bike three miles to the train station, took a 20-minute train ride, followed by a two-mile hike.

20. Tracey McLeod (former) PresidentBBC Int’l. Liverpool, EnglandFish and chips and other very English stuff that makes for a lot of very fond memories.

27. Serge Grobman Brand ManagerSteve MaddenChernivtsi, UkraineThose worry-free, all-day soccer games.

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N SEASON FOUR of Sex and the City, Carrie Bradshaw famously quipped to her Vogue editor that, “Men I may not know, but shoes—shoes I know.” The character’s love affair (obsession, really) with designer shoes became legendary. Shoes were often the centerpiece of her runway-worthy

outfits as well as woven into the storylines of many episodes. The series helped put the entire category of luxury footwear on the map. Nothing like an audience of millions of wannabe Carries, Mirandas, Samanthas and Charlottes glued to their TVs every week watching what would hap-pen next and, equally important, what each would be wearing, to surge sales. It was pretty much six years of designer shoe eye candy. “Carrie Bradshaw’s constant name dropping catapulted many labels into fame and glory,” reports Rae Ann Herman, vice president and fashion director of accessories for Saks Fifth Avenue. “Jimmy Choo, Manolo Blahnik, Christian Louboutin and even Uggs benefitted from the show’s popularity.”

The shoe mania featured on the series elevated the accessory from a mere afterthought to the most vital aspect of an outfit, capable of transform-ing not only a woman’s appearance but also her attitude. Along the way, designer shoes replaced the it bag as the most covetable accessory. “Shoes are the most important type of accessory today, which can be attributed in some part to their role on Sex and the City,” states Colleen Hill, associ-ate curator of accessories for The Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology.

Designer footwear was arguably the show’s fifth character. (No offense, Mr. Big.) In particular, Manolo Blahnik’s shoes were not only a staple in Carrie’s wardrobe, but he was referred to the most when the topic of shoes arose. He was followed by Jimmy Choo and Christian Louboutin. “The characters put the names of major shoe designers into the cultural conversation,” says Meghan Cleary, author of Shoe are You? “Before you would just say flats or heels but then, all of sudden, women were saying Jimmy Choo and Louboutin. They were elevated to the level of Gucci or Prada.”

Above all, Sex and the City celebrated a woman’s

love of fashion, particularly footwear. It let men (those who watched the show) behind the cur-tain, so to speak. If they didn’t already suspect it, the show confirmed that women adore shoes, and that it’s ok to buy lots of them. “[Sex and the City] gave women permission to have that obses-sion,” Cleary says. After all, if Carrie could spend $40,000 on shoes—a figure calculated by the more conservative Miranda—then viewers could justify splurging on a pair or two of their own.

Collecting designer shoes became a talisman of female empowerment and a sign of style, class and independence that could be enjoyed by women everywhere, regardless of shape or size. “Shoes are democratic accessories in the sense you don’t have to be a particular size to look good in them,” notes Hill. “They became objects of sartorial fantasy and aspiration for many viewers.” Adds Cleary, “[Carrie’s] markers of success were being independent, being able to afford her own Manolos and being able to live the life she wanted.”

Though the Sex and the City finale aired more than 10 years ago, its influence on designer footwear (bolstered by a steady airing of reruns as well as the movie series) remains powerful. Specifically, it has helped establish a market where new designers can make a name for themselves as well as push the design envelope. “The show influenced designers and customers to be more bold in their choices,” says Erica Russo, fashion director for women’s accessories and beauty at Bloomingdale’s. “In turn, retailers want to offer more “wow” shoes—styles that you can build your entire outfit around.”

“It paved the way for a whole new breed of shoe designers,” agrees Cleary, who cites Charlotte Olympia and Nicholas Kirkwood as two innova-tive designers continuing to whet the appetite for luxury footwear. And while Carrie Bradshaw is a fictitious character, her impact on the designer footwear industry continues to be very real. “The beautiful shoes on the show inspired retailers like us to seek out up-and-coming designers and buy into more fashion-forward styles from existing brands like Dior, Miu Miu and Stuart Weitzman,” Russo says. It’s to the delight of Carrie Bradshaws everywhere. •

SHOES AND THE CITY Pithy and ‘punny,’ Carrie Bradshaw’s

memorable shoe-related lines.

“Oh my God! Do you know what these are? Manolo Blahnik Mary Janes! I thought these

were an urban shoe myth!”

“With no man in sight, I decided to rescue my ankles from a life of boredom

by purchasing too many pairs of Jimmy Choo shoes.”

“I’m not afraid of heights, have you seen my shoes?”

“I lost my Choo!”

“I have this little substance abuse problem….expensive footwear.”

“Shoe shopping is my cardio.”

“But I rationalized that my new shoes shouldn’t be punished just

because I can’t budget.”

“I’ve spent $40,000 on shoes and I have no place to live? I will literally be the old

woman who lived in her shoes!”

“I like my money where I can see it—hanging in my closet.”

“When I first moved to New York and I was totally broke, sometimes I would buy Vogue

instead of dinner. I felt it fed me more.”

The hit HBO series made elite shoe designers household names, and the industry has never been the same since. By Tara Anne Dalbow

SEX (AND THE CITY) SELLS

I

Christian Louboutin

Manolo Blahnik


Congratulations Footwear Plus for 25 years offootwear journalism

WWW.TITANINDUSTRIESINC.COM

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Leader of the PackBlake Krueger, CEO of Wolverine Worldwide,

is the consummate industry executive. By Greg Dutter


IF THERE WERE ever a need for a CEO of the entire industry—a Commissioner of Footwear à la the one overseeing Major League Baseball’s operations—Blake Krueger would be an ideal candidate. His experience, skills, knowledge, business acumen, successful track record, steady confidence and proven leadership qualities would suit the position per-fectly—just as it has during his 20-plus years at Wolverine Worldwide, where he steadily rose through the executive ranks and became CEO in 2010.

Krueger’s career trajectory and the transformation of the company into one of the industry’s powerhouses, now at 15 brands strong and more than $3 billion in annual sales, is nothing short of extraordinary. But it wasn’t fate, accident or luck. It took a sound business plan and a clear corporate vision. Krueger credits his predecessors, Geoffrey Bloom followed by Timothy O’Donovan, for having set the company on the path to success. He’s since picked up the ball and kept running.

“I remember Geoff telling me when he became CEO in ’93, ‘Blake, some-times you can have a lot of success in life if you stop doing stupid things.’ And, frankly, looking back nearly 25 years at how challenged we were as a company, we stopped doing a number of things that we shouldn’t have been doing, focused on our core business and then took an early approach to adding brands to our portfolio.” Back then, Wolverine Worldwide consisted of only three brands: the 100-year-old Wolverine, Hush Puppies (founded in 1958,) and Bates, a military brand the company acquired in the late ’60s. To say Wolverine Worldwide had been a bit sleepy was, to be fair, spot-on.

When Krueger agreed to join the executive team (he had been an outside legal advisor for the company over the prior decade), it was with a mandate that all would change. And it certainly did, starting with the Caterpillar and Harley-Davidson footwear licenses. In 1997, the acquisition of Merrell really got the ball rolling. At the time, the outdoor specialty brand was doing around $25 million a year in sales and losing money. Since then, it’s grown to more than $500 million in annual sales. In 2012, the acquisition of Collective Brands (Stride Rite, Keds, Saucony and Sperry Top-Sider) took things to a whole new level. “When you view the company as it stood in 1993 and the course it has taken over the past 25 years, it’s something to be proud of,” Krueger says. “It’s clearly a competency of the team and organization to operate a portfolio of brands in very distinct silos but sufficiently support them in all the central-ized services and functions—legal, HR, sourcing, distribution…you name it.”

What are some industry highlights of yours over the past 25 years?Personally, it’s having such a long and wonderful career at Wolverine Worldwide. It’s been fun coming into work each day for the past 20-plus years. Given the nature of our business, being able to take a global perspective, travel the world and become good friends with many of our 200 partners—that’s been a great

experience. From the viewpoint of the company, seeing us evolve from a small, three-brand business into a portfolio of 15 brands that are marketed in virtually every corner of the world has been a highlight certainly for the team, company and myself. More recently, the acquisition of Sperry, Saucony, Keds and Stride Rite was transformational. It nearly doubled our size and I believe fundamentally changed our trajectory. I would also mention getting to know a lot of people in our industry has been especially rewarding. Specifically, the Two Ten Footwear Foundation is really a mini Switzerland. People come together there, drop all competitive barriers and rally to help those in our industry who are in need. The motto, “Shoe People Helping Shoe People,” goes back to when Two Ten started in 1937. It’s a unique organization, sometimes providing the last safety net for people who haven’t been that

fortunate. It’s something very unique to our industry and it has enabled me to get to know a number of great people that otherwise I would have known only through the pages of your magazine.

What has changed the most over this span in the industry?Most recently, there has been a significant shift in the power to the consumer. Consumers today have access to a lot more information and have more shop-ping power and alternatives than at any other time in the past. It has many ramifications for brand owners and retailers. For example, there has been a significant change in how brands have to approach consumers. Consumers really pull information from a brand more than ever before versus a more traditional push advertising approach, which has become less effective. Clearly, today, you need to have a fanatical focus on your consumer and engage in a dialogue with them.

Does it make the business easier or harder?It makes it different. I think the closer you are to your consumer, the more suc-cess you are going to have. You just need a different toolbox today and different skill sets in your organization than you did maybe 10 or 20 years ago.

Other big changes?One that I would say is a regret for our industry has been the incredibly fast offshoring of our manufacturing base. It was only 25 or 30 years ago that about half of all the footwear consumed in America was made here. All that infra-structure existed within our borders. Today, that figure is less than a half of one percent. I understand the globalization of markets and why it happened, but it’s one thing that I look back on that, if I could wave a wand, I would change.

What do you wish you knew 25 years ago that you know now?Everything, of course, right? We wish we knew all the lessons we had to >79

R E F L E C T I O N S

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Congratulations

on your 25th anniversary celebration.

Silver is definitely your color.

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Not content to be the ugly duckling of the footwear world,

leading comfort brands have upped the fashion quotient

over the last 25 years, proving that comfort and style need not

be mutually exclusive. By Kirby Stirland

COMFORT ZONE

HINK BACK 25 years ago—what passed for “comfort” footwear? If you’re picturing your grandma’s “sensible shoes,” you’ve pretty much nailed the category’s general style aesthetic. In short, it wasn’t all that pretty. And, per manufacturing capabilities of that era,

the features and benefits were limited, at best, compared to today. But that was then and this is now. The comfort market has made tremendous strides in both look and feel over the last quarter-century. Comfort footwear now encompasses so much more in terms of silhouettes, materials, constructions, features, benefits and—most of all—style. Indeed, the days of being dubbed the industry’s ugly duckling are past, as comfort footwear has become an everyday lifestyle choice. It’s even had its moment on the catwalk, thanks to the recent Normcore movement, which embraced classic comfort styles from the likes of Birkenstock and Dansko.

Still, it was a long road to get here. Dave Quel, presi-

A trip through comfort coverage in Footwear Plus over the years reveals a steady evolution in style.

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dent of Ecco USA, recalls that in 1990, “what was important in comfort shoes was not aesthetics but cushioning, generous fit and ease of closure. It was more function than style.” Scott Cates, president of Alegria, states that at the time, “if a shoe was thin and flexible it was considered comfort,” while Danny Wasserman, owner of Tip Top Shoes in New York, remembers the “old-ladyish” leather-soled

oxfords of the day. Speaking of the orthopedic aspect, Anthony Diks, CEO of Wolky, notes that many comfort shoe wearers then were just follow-ing their doctors’ orders. “[Comfort shoes] were a prescription: ‘Don’t look at them, but you have to wear them because otherwise you won’t be able to walk in five years,’” he muses.

Peter Frappier, general manager of FootPrints Shoes in Newington, CT, considers 1990 a turning point for the category. “Before that, comfort was considered either very mature or athletic,” he says

of the limited choices available. “There weren’t really true comfort brands out there.” The arrival of European brands like Ecco and Mephisto to the U.S. market in the late ’80s and early ’90s, however, sparked an industry shift, he says.

“Traditional European comfort brands changed the nature of the business…there was almost a faddishness to it,” agrees Peter Hanig, president

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of Hanig’s Footwear in Chicago. “People were identifying themselves with expensive European comfort wear of a certain style,” he explains, noting the lace-up looks that were popular at the time. Frappier adds that the walking shoe craze also fueled the fire. “Women realized they wanted to be comfort-able…but they didn’t want [a shoe that looked] like a sneaker,” he says.

Other factors that have led to the category’s enormous popularity today: the casual revolution that pushed dress shoes to the back of closets, aging baby boomers increasingly in need of sensible shoes but refusing to look old, the wellness movement embracing a healthy mind, body and soul and millions of millennials who grew up wearing comfortable sneakers and expecting nothing less. Technological advances also helped give the category a modern makeover. “There have been so many advancements in the way we

use leathers,” offers Quel. “Now we’re able to use camel or yak leather, [which] have beautiful characteristics and are thinner and lighter.” Quel also cites updates to Ecco’s direct-attach construction process that enabled silhouettes to be streamlined. “We’re able to deliver on that same comfort promise in a much more stylish package,” Quel states, noting that technology is “the genesis of making shoes more stylish and fashionable.”

While improved com-fort technologies and subsequent better styling may be a chicken -or-the-egg scenario, it is clear that without the latter you are pretty much out of business these days. “Styling is much more important than

it was 25 years ago,” Hanig says. “People don’t want to look old…they want to look good.” Quel agrees, noting, “The shoes that my grandmother wore 20 years ago, my mother would never think twice about wearing today. But they both want the same features in terms of functionality and comfort.”

As the comfort category continues to evolve, the brands that will succeed will be those that push themselves in terms of innovation and design. Hanig cites Ecco, Mephisto and Thierry Rabotin as examples that have made their offerings younger and more interesting to appeal to today’s market. Taos Footwear President, Glen Barad, noting the popular emphasis on nutrition, exercise, yoga and meditation, says brands that can incorporate holistic health aspects into their design should also see success. “Wellness, in general, is becoming more important in peoples’ lives, and footwear is a huge part of that,” agrees Cates. Truly comfortable shoes, in his opinion, have the power to “make a difference in [people’s] lives.”

At the end of the day—quite literally—no one wants to be uncomfortable or unfashionable. Consumers have come to expect both in their footwear. And once anyone has experienced true comfort, there’s very little chance of going back. “People were once willing to put up with some pain in order to have a certain look, but today anybody who’s matured a little bit real-izes they don’t have to be uncomfortable,” Hanig says. Wasserman agrees, noting the shift is nearly unanimous: “People [today] aren’t going to buy an uncomfortable shoe.” •

“There aren’t any ‘old’ women anymore.

Making them feel happy and

fashionable is a better approach

than offering another ugly

and depressing comfort shoe.”

— Martin Berendsen, president, Inuovo (Dec. 2012)

CONGRATU LAT I ON S O N Y O U R S I LV E R A N N I V E R S A R Y

T O O U R F R I E N D S A T F O O T W E A R P L U S

SEYCHELLES IMPORTS, LLC

FW_04-05_15_comfort_03.indd 39 4/17/15 6:55 PM

Cool Like ThatTarek Hassan, co-owner of The Tannery and Concepts,

sells the art of cool like none other. By Greg Dutter

IT’S NOT EASY to be cool. In fact, anyone who has to try to be cool probably isn’t. It has to be effortless. It must be authentic. It has to draw admiration and respect. Being cool is an art form, just like creating a cool place to shop, which—done right—starts at the front door and extends to the dressing rooms, the lighting, the signage, the vibe, the merchandise (of course), the staff, the background music…every detail. Tarek Hassan, co-owner of The Tannery and sneaker boutique Concepts in the Boston area, has been perfecting the art of cool retailing for more than 25 years.

While many independent retailers have fallen by the wayside in this timespan—succumbing to big box dealers, national chains, discounters, online dealers and, more often than most would admit, their own inability to adapt and stay relevant—Hassan’s stores have taken on all comers and continue to thrive. They are at the forefront of selection and format and, of course, as cool as ever. Hassan is credited with introducing many retailing firsts: the first in-store concept shop (Concepts) and the first-ever sneaker boutique (of the same name). Hassan is one of the first to create limited-edition collaborations. His most recent singular pop-up retail concept in New York is another totally cool format and industry first: The space show-cases one exclusive item for a limited run and, once it sells out (usually in a few hours), the space is closed down only to be completely remade in décor and concept suited for the next one-off collaboration. It is the coolest retail theater yet. Lines of devoted fans and celebrities flock to the openings to see the latest shows staged by Hassan, his team and their brand partners. (To date, pop-ups have been done with New Balance, Asics, Canada Goose and Timberland, to cite a few.) Together, they’ve put the “cool” back into brick-and-mortar retail-ing when just about everyone else wrote it off as dullsville.

Being this cool is hard work. And Hassan admits there are cheaper and prob-ably more profitable ways to go about this business. He could, for example, just sell online and avoid the physical logistics, expenses and headaches. But, he asks, where’s the fun in that? “It’s more exciting to see that consumer come into the store and see the enjoyment on their face,” Hassan offers. “There’s nothing more beautiful and rewarding than to plant that seed and see it grow before your eyes.” Hassan adds, “It’s so important to get that kid to come into the store, feel it, see it, understand it and really experience it. It’s also what makes us dif-ferent from anybody else.”

Hassan is both a merchant and a showman. In this age of unlimited and instant competition from all corners of the globe, he believes it’s the only way to stand out and thrive. The way Hassan views it, the store must be the pri-mary brand. Otherwise, you’re just another retailer selling many of the same brands and styles as countless others. His most recent efforts at pop-up retail-ing, a steady stream of exclusive and wildly creative collabs and a commitment to be first on the latest trends (that’s Rule No. 1) have made Hassan the barom-eter of cool in the footwear industry. “If you don’t always stay at the forefront, you become stagnant very quickly,” he says. “The consumer will move on and it will be very hard to get them back.” Fortunately, Hassan is naturally wired to stay ahead of the curve. “It’s why I wake up every morning: to try and be one

step ahead of the industry,” he says. “It’s what I enjoy doing, and it’s the only way I know how to do it.” And it’s gotten even more enjoyable now that the competitive field is worldwide. “What’s more beautiful than to try to be the best of the best in the world than trying to be the best of the best in your little town?”

You are a perfectionist, you don’t cut any expense and you always take the hard way. Why?Maybe because it’s so damn easy to just buy it online. But I don’t want to do that only. I want us to be totally different and not what everybody else does. It’s why we are who we are. It makes us more of a brand, and consumers look at us differently. We have become

a respected brand worldwide, and that’s not easy to achieve.

The pop-up in New York, in particular, is bringing real excitement to brick-and-mortar retailing. In a big way. People are Instagramming selfies, posting on Facebook, comment-ing on blogs...isn’t that what we want? This incredible experience that gets kids to come out from behind their computers, wait on line and experience the pur-chase in person, which is bigger than just buying the shoes. To me, that’s price-less. Retail is not just about buying and selling anymore. Anyone who thinks it is just that, I wish them the best of luck. You’ve got to be so much more cre-ative today. You’ve got to work a lot more closely with your vendors. You’ve got to work on special projects and be willing and able to take chances in order to become a brand and not just be a retailer. Today we are competing against the world, which I love, but it requires you to be your own brand more than ever. It’s the only way to truly stand out and remain relevant. Consumers that believe in us as a brand are more loyal.

What might the shoe store look like in 25 years?We will never walk away completely from brick-and-mortar, but you have to treat your physical and digital aspects on the same level. I don’t think brick-and-mortar can survive without a digital component anymore, but I do think Zappos, ShoeBuy, Amazon, etc. can survive with or without physical stores. Traditional retailers will need to be technically savvy in order to succeed. I believe whom-ever does that right on the brick-and-mortar side can shine.

What have been some memorable moments of the past 25 years?The first thing is the Internet and its overall impact on the retail landscape. Second, the consolidation of stores, particularly the independent base, which has resulted in fewer wholesale companies. The end result is an overall lack of product and diversification.

Now on the bright side?The advent of social media and how it lets independent retailers speak to the consumer 24/7. It puts the independent on equal footing with the national chains in the ability to reach consumers. In the old days, you’d never be >82



FW_04_05_reflections.tarek_03.indd 40 4/17/15 1:26 PM

www.gabor.de

Purveyors of luxury European comfort footwear

Tel: (800) 361-3466 - [email protected]

KICKT’S SAFE TO say everyone has at least one pair of sneakers in their closet—and that’s a conservative estimate. With legions of devotees rang-ing from athletes to fashionistas to obsessive fans, sneakers undoubtedly make up one of the most popular footwear categories and the growth in appeal and sales show no signs of letting up any time soon.

Matt Powell, a sports industry analyst at NPD Group and author of Forbes’ Sneakernomics blog, believes the popularity of sneakers reflects

the casualization of America. “We have been a denim nation for decades and sneakers are clearly the shoes of choice to wear with a pair of jeans,” he says. He also points to the healthy living movement—and with it the mainstream acceptance of fitness apparel—as bolstering the sneaker’s popularity.

The current “athleisure” fashion trend (which helped drive a $2 billion sales increase in apparel, footwear and accessories in 2014, according to NPD), translates to slip–on Vans in a variety of colors and materials and sleek run-ning shoes from the likes of Nike Free and Skechers GoRun in a rainbow of hues. Brendan Dunne, news editor of the Sole Collector blog, says economics are a factor in the current proliferation of casual athletic styles. “It’s all about a [relatively] cheap model that’s got an athletic feel to it but [is] not neces-sarily a pure performance shoe,” he says.

Then there’s the generational influence. “Millennials have grown up wearing nothing but sneakers their whole lives, and they’re very health- and fitness–conscious,” Powell offers. “They’re also looking for versatility in the products they buy, so to wear sneakers all the time makes a lot of sense.”

The fact that the sneaker has become the statement piece to many an outfit today has ushered in designer takes on the silhouette, be they Chanel, Christian Louboutin or Prada. Who would have thought, 25 years ago, when the sneaker was primarily worn by men, that the world’s most renowned design houses would be sending their own takes down the runway? Dunne says people—particularly sneakerheads—are open to the idea of these designer models, and as a result, aren’t experiencing the sticker shock one might expect for styles priced north of $500. The jump into the luxury footwear realm is proof that sneakers are no longer just for play.

Deckers Brands CEO Angel Martinez cites the ongoing success of

the running category over this span as being instrumental in the sneaker’s growing popularity; in fact, it has influenced the entire shoe market. “Running has become the anchor of the shoe business,” he says. “It’s the driver of tech-nology, fashion, function and performance in all other types of footwear.”

Tony Post, CEO of Topo Athletic and the former president of Vibram FiveFingers, is of the mind that “running shoes changed the world.” He points out that when running shoes became acceptable casualwear, makers of casual shoes had to redefine their products as lighter and more comfortable. “If they didn’t, they were probably going to be out of business,” he says, adding the running shoe’s effect on the overall footwear market “really helped to change fashion and design [and] the way we live today.”

Elizabeth Semmelhack, senior curator of the Bata Shoe Museum’s exhibit Out of the Box: The Rise of Sneaker Culture (which is slated for a U.S. museum tour beginning in July), believes sneakers gained their iconic status through their broad appeal, dubbing them “one of the most democratic forms of footwear. Everybody, absolutely, can find a sneaker that is suitable to them,” she says. Post cites sneakers’ high functionality, authenticity and comfort as contrib-uting to their timeless appeal, as well as their lifestyle–defining properties.

So what’s on the horizon for the next 25 years of sneaker evolution? Powell expects the casual dress trend to continue and, as such, sneakers will remain popular, albeit with added futuristic perks. “We are really in the golden age of technology right now in footwear,” he says, noting that every season brings new advancements. Powell thinks the way sneakers are made will also con-tinue to evolve. “The advent of 3D printing and labor–saving manufacturing techniques are going to be the next frontier for us,” he says. “It’ll allow greater customization so that you’ll have a shoe that’s made specifically for your foot and to the specifications that you want.”

Semmelhack echoes that sentiment, adding that a customizable future would be kind of a throwback. She notes that shoemaking used to be a collaboration between customer and cobbler, but mechanized production replaced it with

a one-size-fits-all approach. “In many ways, it’s a return to a bespoke concept that defined the history of shoemaking,” she says. “What most people would consider to be the most cutting–edge form of footwear—the sneaker—is actually leading us back to a very traditional form of footwear production.” •

I


From the basketball court to the skate park to the catwalk and beyond, sneak-ers have come a long way over the last 25 years. By Kirby Stirland

Nike Flyknit

From tricked-out kicks to stripped-down basics, sneaker coverage has played big in Footwear Plus over the years.

IT

WEIGHT WATCHERS MBT was at the forefront of the rocker–soled shaping and toning craze that caught on in 2008 during the financial crisis (one of the sales angles was that wearers could forego the cost of a gym membership). Skechers jumped into the mix with Shape–Ups, and Reebok got in on the action with their EasyTone and RunTone categories, among others.

SKATER’S PARADISEOn the heels of the ‘bells & whistles’ basketball shoe era, the mid ’90s ush-ered in the bare bones skate shoe look. Vans, Airwalk, DC Shoes and Etnies took center stage as alternative sports and music entered the mainstream.

RETRO ACTIVEThe Puma Clyde, originally introduced in 1973 as a basketball sneaker, gained renewed fame in the mid ’90s when Mike D. of the Beastie Boys sported a pair on the cover of the band’s Check Your Head album. Back then, Puma’s Tony Bertone called it “the match that lit the fire.” Today, New Balance, Nike, Converse, Vans and Adidas sell about as many retro styles as new ones.

MAXING OUTConsidered the new “ugly,” which in the performance athletic market is the utmost compliment, Hoka One One’s maximal running shoes feature a high–volume mid-sole boasting 50 percent more cushioning than the standard running shoe. A number of stalwart running brands are getting in on the maximal game, including Asics, Saucony, Brooks and New Balance. More than just presenting a polar alterna-tive to minimal shoes, Powell says maximals offer runners a range of options. “[It’s] really showing consumers that you don’t want to run in the same shoe every day,” he says.

BOUTIQUE SNEAKSJust as indie record stores used to be the arbiters of cool, sneaker boutiques like Bodega, Concepts and Undefeated have become the epicenters of sneaker fashion and limited-edition collabs. “It started when the skateboarders and the graffiti artists grew up and wanted to make businesses of their own,” says Lee Smith, manager at sneaker shop Dave’s Quality Meats (DQM) in New York. Smith points to Jeff Staple’s Nike “Pigeon Dunks” for Reed Space NYC in 2005 as getting the collab craze rolling. Tarek Hassan, co-owner of Concepts, notes kids today can buy select collabs for $150 and flip them on eBay for $4,000. “Which items can appreciate that quickly, besides maybe a painting?” he says. “[That’s] only possible in the sneaker world.”

HOOP DREAMSThe excess of the ’80s was still evident in fashion at the dawn of the new decade, and tech-loaded basketball hi-tops by Nike, Reebok and Adidas ruled. Endorsed by Michael Jordan, Penny Hardaway, Larry Johnson, Allan Iverson and a host of other NBAers back then, the category remains popular with a new generation led by LeBron James, Kevin Durant and Carmelo Anthony.

MANDATORY MINIMUMLed by the Vibram FiveFingers “foot glove” (debuted in 2004) and Nike’s Free collection, the minimalist category took the market by storm and spread into the comfort arena under the guise of natural motion. Less was deemed better for the body, helping improve posture and balance while strengthening tendons and muscles.

Skechers Shape-Ups

Puma Clyde

Reebok Pump

Nike Air Jordan

Nike Pigeon Dunk

Vibram FiveFingers KMD Sport LS

Vans Chima Feguson Pro

Hoka One One Clifton

The (alternative) sports report: Footwear Plus; July 1995.


The quintessential ’90s-era fashion trend became the uniform of the new anti-establishment and a look and ethos that lives on today. By Tara Anne Dalbow

GRUNGE IS GOOD

N THE EARLY ’90s, greed, for lack of a better word, was no lon-ger deemed good as a new gener-ation of youth rebelled against the excessive and materialistic lifestyle of the ’80s. The fictitious money titan Gordon Gekko depicted in

Wall Street was out. A recession was in. Less was more. Green, the environ-mentally friendly kind, was good. Hair bands were out. A stripped down, raw new sound was taking the airwaves by storm. It was coined “grunge” by Sub Pop, a Seattle record label describing the angsty sound of two up-and-com-ing bands on its roster. Those bands just so happened to be Nirvana and Soundgarden. The Seattle music scene they helped spawn became ground zero of the grunge movement.

The look that these bands unwittingly unleashed onto the world was derived from the clothing typically worn by youth in the Pacific Northwest—thrifty, outdoorsy pieces meant to combat the erratic, cool and often damp climate. It was lumberjack for guys and ’70s love-child, by way of floral baby doll dresses, for the girls. It combined elements of punk and working class Americana. It was often androgynous, as girls or guys could rock an oversized and untucked flannel shirt paired with (usually ripped) jeans and heavy-soled logger boots. Grunge was industrial, basic and utili-tarian. It was working class hero, even if many of the kids sporting the look were unemployed at the time.

Lauren Brown, founder and editor in chief of the blog, Fashion Grunge, says the look centered on “Dr. Martens, Converse Chucks, plaids, flannels, band T-shirts and jeans.” She adds, “Everything was patched-up or left ripped with some long johns show-ing through.” The clothing was cheap and durable and, therefore, accessible

to anyone—a far cry from the flashy, label-driven styles of the ’80s.“But it wasn’t about being a part of a trend back then,” Brown explains. “It was more like if the music resonated with you, then you wanted to wear what they were wearing.”

“It was more anti-fashion than fashion,” states Damien Wilson, creative direc-tor at Dr. Martens. “It was focused on individuality and creative expression.” Wilson believes the appeal of grunge arose out of the freedom to customize your look—taking what you saw on the stage and making it your own. “People got bored of being served up products,” he says. At the core was a desire to be authentic and raw. What you saw was what you got. “Grunge made fashion more real, the same way grunge made music more real,” agrees Brown. “It was about the freedom to be whom-ever you wanted to be.”

Heavy boots often anchored the look. “They lasted forever, looked bet-ter when they were beat up and were completely unisex,” offers Brown. “The popularity of Dr. Martens had a lot to do with the functionality of the boots themselves,” explains Wilson, adding that the brand’s 1460 boots’ long-term association with rebellion and creativity also played a role. “Whether you were Kurt Cobain or a 15-year-old girl, the effect is the same,” he says.

Mike Alday, spokesperson for Georgia Boot, cites authenticity as the reason for the uptick in the brand’s logger boot sales during the mid-’90s. “Authenticity drove the whole movement,” he reports, “and Georgia Boots were actually being worn by loggers. We weren’t a fashion brand chasing the trend.” Nonetheless, he says the brand was shipping out three to four pairs of boots a week to top fashion editors looking to include them in their fashion wells. (Georgia

A grunge staple: Dr. Martens’ 1460 boot.

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Boot even made the pages of Vogue.) Alday adds that product requests spanned a long list of celebrities and artists, including a late night hand-delivery to the members of Pearl Jam. “They were all wearing them—from Diane Keaton to Jerry Seinfeld,” he says.

Flash-forward to today and designers are still try-ing to capture the gritty “authenticity” of grunge. Hedi Slimane’s Fall ’13 collection for Saint Laurent, for example, was a self-proclaimed tribute to grunge, chock-full of tartan baby doll dresses, faux fur coats and tattered sweaters. “Designers, like Slimane, who grew up during that era will always return to it for inspiration,” Brown says. Slimane is joined by Dries Van Noten and several American designers—nota-bly Alexander Wang and Phillip Lim—who continue to offer riffs on grunge staples.

The tribute doesn’t stop at the runways. Models have adopted singer Kurt Cobain’s undone hair, slouchy jeans and flannel shirts as their own off-duty uni-forms. In addition, Dr. Martens’ classic 1460 boots are back in vogue, led by a new wave of musicians, including Miley Cyrus, the members of Tweens and Soko, to name a few. “Grunge became a lifestyle and that is why it still endures today,” says Marshal Cohen, chief industry analyst for NPD Group.

“The look is still strong,” affirms Alday, who says urban youth across the country look to denim, flan-nel and work boots as a means of self-expression. Adds Wilson, “For as long as people want to show that they are free-spirited, creative and rebellious, the [grunge] look will persevere.” •

GRUNGE FACTORSTake our quiz and see just

how grunge-worthy you are.

1. Where was the epicenter of grunge? 2. What year did Nirvana’s Nevermind debut?

3. Who was the first couple of grunge?4. What is the fabric of grunge?

5. Which record label coined the term “grunge?” 6. What album sold platinum 13 times over,

making it the biggest-seller of the grunge era? 7. Temple of the Dog was comprised of

members from which grunge bands? 8. Which grunge rocker had a speaking cameo

in the movie Singles? 9. Which two venues were essential

to the grunge scene? 10. Who is considered the godfather of grunge?

Bonus Qs. What is Kurt Cobain’s hometown? Which David Bowie song did Nirvana cover during

their MTV Unplugged performance?

The first family of grunge: Kurt Cobain, Courtney Love and Frances Bean Cobain.

The ubiquitous knit cap and Converse Chucks often topped off and anchored the grunge look, respectively.

Answers: 1. Seattle 2. 1991 3. Kurt Cobain and Courtney Love 4. Flannel 5. Sub Pop 6. Ten by Pearl Jam 7. Pearl

Jam, Soundgarden, Mother Love Bone, Green River 8. Eddie Vedder 9. Crocodile Café, Moore Theater 10. Neil Young Bonus:

Aberdeen, WA; “The Man Who Sold the World”


Do the Right Thing Amanda Cabot, CEO of Dansko, has built a company

based on the principles of corporate good. It’s been a refreshing and unique approach, to say the least. By Greg Dutter

25years

THERE IS ONLY one way to go about business, and that’s the right way, according to Amanda Cabot, CEO of Dansko. Over the past 25 years, the “little clog company” that got its start when Cabot and her husband and company co-founder, Peter Kjellerup, first began selling pairs of the Danish-made shoes out of the back of a station wagon at equestrian events. It has since grown into a cornerstone comfort brand spanning a full range of styles—all with a foundation of business principles that would make most Wall Street titans cringe.

It involves four essential ingredients: 1. Mindful governance, which starts with a clear vision of what you strive for, why it matters and for whom. It involves transparency, fostering cre-ativity, providing opportunities for growth, giving everyone a voice and shar-ing both credit and profit. 2. Sustainable business ethics or, as Cabot says, the stuff we learned as kids: do unto others, reap what you sow, put your money where your mouth is and lead by example. It also involves accountability—independent, third-party reality checks to see if the company is really as good as it thinks it is. 3. Corporate philanthropy, which means giving back and pay-ing it forward. Specifically, support the communities you are a part of, she says. 4. Responsible environmentalism: starting with “do no harm” and end-ing with leaving the planet in better shape than it was found.

Anyone doing a taste test on whether these essential ingredients are a part of Dansko’s corporate recipe would find that chefs Cabot and Kjellerup are the real deal. Dansko’s business model isn’t a marketing gimmick. Quite the contrary, Dansko has gone about its business the ethical way, which many firms might deem too time-consuming, difficult and costly. Just try these facts on for size: Dansko is 100 percent employee-owned—the definition of giving back, accord-ing to Cabot. Dansko is a founding member of B Corp., an organization of like-minded, for-profit businesses who benchmark their practices against the triple bottom line of people, planet and profits. The key being, B Corp. companies can prove it, rather than just claim it. Dansko has also established a founda-tion and volunteer program, which is funded entirely by profits and run solely by employees. To date it has donated approximately $1 million to well over 100 charitable organizations. Last but not least, Dansko’s environmental track record is second to none. Its LEED Gold-certified headquarters in West Dover, PA, is a must-visit for companies looking for ways to lessen their carbon footprints.

When asked if there might have been an easier way to go about creating Dansko, Cabot says it was never a consideration. It’s simply not how she and her husband roll. “A lot of great companies demonstrate an ‘ownership cul-ture’ through their commitments to employee empowerment and develop-ment, by giving them discretionary latitude and autonomy,” she offers. “But our ownership structure is unique.” Specifically, it creates a whole other level of employee incentive and engagement. “Giving employees—at all levels—a piece of the rock gets them committed on a whole new level to the success of the business,” Cabot explains. “When employees act as owners, they share

responsibility for the overall good of the company above their own interests.”

The house that Cabot and Kjellerup built is now owned by all Dansko employees. “We are all in this together,” she offers. “We become better problem-solvers, dreamers and entrepre-neurs when we all live ‘over the shop.’ That’s the difference.”

Did you ever think back in 1990—selling clogs out of the back of a station wagon—that Dansko would become what it is today?Never. Our journey with Dansko was much more serendipi-tous, getting in the path of a great opportunity and making the

most of it. Our modus operandi was very much “in the moment.” Peter and I started Dansko wanting to share something great—great footwear, a great experience and a great place to work. Every time we do that right, we can rein-vest in more-to-share. Every time we miss, we go back to the drawing board and try again. Being the best you can be in the moment, with a true desire to share and to serve, has allowed us to get as far as we have.

What do you know now that you wish you knew 25 years ago?As we’ve grown, we added so much more complexity to our operations, so much specialization. I look around at our various departments and am sim-ply amazed at their depth of knowledge. Our warehouse operations are so incredibly efficient, our information technology so sophisticated, our prod-uct design and commercialization so much more technical. It’s daunting. And it’s probably better that I didn’t know just how complex our operations would become. I might never have signed up for this job!

Would you have done anything differently?I suppose not. If I hadn’t learned from my mistakes, I probably wouldn’t have learned as much.

What has changed for the better industry-wise? Anything for the worse?The Internet has changed all of our lives, mostly for the better. Our access to information is simply staggering. What that means is that we, as product- and service providers, can’t just “exist,” waiting for customers to show up on our doorsteps. Consumers have access to so much more information these days. They can shop whenever and wherever they choose. Convenience, choice, curation and on-demand satisfaction have caused us all to rethink how we can remain meaningful in our customers’ lives. Indeed, how we can even show up in our customers’ lives.

What has been the biggest change during this span?I would say the variety of shopping venues available to consumers these days compared to 25 years ago. I admit I wasn’t an industry insider when we >82


FW_04_05_reflections.mandy_03.indd 47 4/17/15 1:24 PM


The SourceAngel Martinez, CEO of Deckers Brands, has made a career out of

building big brands—one shoe, one conversation and one conversion at a time. By Greg Dutter

years

INTERVIEWING ANGEL MARTINEZ, which I have done regularly over the past 25 years, is always enlightening. For start-ers, he’s as informative on the topic of the footwear industry—past, present and future—as anyone I’ve ever met. He’s always well-informed about a broad range of current events, so much so that talking to him is like taking an Evelyn Wood speed read-ing course on the subject. And, perhaps best of all for a journal-ist, he’s never afraid to tell you what he really thinks. In fact, he’s a walking, talking sound bite or (for my print-based pur-poses) pullquote.

I first interviewed Martinez in the early ’90s while he was with Reebok, where he was part of the executive team that saw sales rocket to $3 billion annually in just a few years. The team was credited with help-ing to launch the athletic footwear boom of that era. Specifically, he was at the helm of Reebok’s step aerobics craze and was instrumental in introduc-ing its walking, tennis, Classic and basketball lines. In the ensuing years, my interviews followed his career path to leadership positions with Rockport, Keen and, since 2005, Deckers Brands and its portfolio, which includes Ugg, Teva, Hoka One One, Tsubo and Ahnu.

Martinez, in fact, holds the honor of being the most frequent subject of the Footwear Plus Q&A feature—five times. That’s because every stop along his career path was newsworthy and, more important, because with him at the helm, companies always became busy and exciting. Martinez, a former com-petitive runner, is not one to sit still or wait for the market to come to him. He sets the pace. Like all successful execs, he wants to be first to market with the next big thing. He is driven to introduce products that consumers didn’t know they needed but would eventually crave. His ability to be on the pulse of the next big thing is uncanny.

Beyond his successful track record, Martinez’s love of the industry is infec-tious. So is his passion for great products—cars, bikes, gadgets and, of course, shoes. And, as a former running specialty retailer, his knowledge of the art of selling a customer not just another pair of shoes but the whole shopping experience (décor, ambiance, selection and, most of all, incredible service) is admirable.

Asked what he loves most about the shoe business, Martinez cites the easy ability to gauge how a brand is performing. “You can always keep score by walking down the street,” he notes. “There are few businesses where you can actually judge how you are doing that way. So, for example, when I first started seeing Hokas on the street it was exciting: There’s our product—another per-son we’ve converted.”

Martinez still loves the race and the thrill of customer conversion. It’s part of a grander brand story that centers on staying relevant, focused and creat-ing great products. “The ongoing conversation the brand has with the con-sumer is the challenge. When you are doing that well, you see your product on the street,” he says. “I could be doing incredibly well with some widget hid-den behind some panel, but I wouldn’t get that immediate thrill.”

What are some seismic shifts of the past 25 years? One has been the impact of Title IX on athletic footwear sales. As a result, it has become a staple in a woman’s closet. And women buy a lot more shoes than men—in all colors to go with all outfits. The whole aspect of athletic fashion, which I think Reebok started, has become the norm. Another, more recent, shift is the return to functionality. Hoka, for exam-ple, is a function first shoe. It may look ugly, but people get over that real quick when they realize how they feel in them. The legitimate function of a product is becoming important again. Teva, Birkenstock and Ugg are other examples. It’s

good for us, because that’s what we do.

What has been the biggest change in the industry during this span?The Internet and the access consumers now have to product. At the same time, the amount of quality brands in the marketplace has taken a big hit due to sourcing constraints. Twenty years ago anybody who could fog a mirror and had a letter of credit could make shoes. There were factories making shoes all over the world. But increasing costs of labor, environmental regulations and labor shortages have caused manufacturing to consolidate dramatically. It’s a hell of a lot harder to get shoes made from scratch these days.

That can’t be good.It’s inevitable. It’s hard to get into a lot of businesses today. The shoe business has become a multi-level chess game. One of my concerns is that we get to be such a large scale industry that the small person with a big idea never gets a shot. That would be a real crime. There wouldn’t be another Reebok, Nike or Ugg, if we allow that to happen. That entrepreneurial component has to remain viable in our industry, but it’s increasingly difficult. We’ve incubated brands—Mozo, Tsubo, Ahnu, Hoka were all incubator brands for us. It’s just reached a point where the individual with an idea needs help to make it hap-pen, because it’s extremely expensive to source footwear. Over the next 25 years, I think we will see a new manufacturing paradigm. I won’t say it’ll be all 3-D printed, but a lot of steps will be taken out of the process to allow a much broader manufacturing geography base because a lot of the hand labor will be eliminated from the process. You are seeing that now in a variety of industries—bicycles that are molded in carbon fiber. Quantitatively they are better, but qualitatively are they better? I don’t think so. Shoes made by hand had a certain elemental component to them that a modern factory can’t rep-licate. It will be different and it might enhance performance and comfort, but there was something about the leather and stitching that was special.

What do you wish you knew 25 years ago that you know now?The ongoing success of the running industry, which has been extraordi-nary. It has only gotten stronger, whereas 25 years ago people were saying it was over. Running is here to stay. I would never have thought, for <79


FW_04_05_reflections.angel_03.indd 48 4/17/15 2:30 PM

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Hip-hop’s influence on footwear fashion has been

profound over the past 25 years—and the beat

goes on. By Lauren Fusilier

STREETBEATS

HEN RAP STAR Timbaland burst onto the scene in the mid- ’90s, it’s safe to say many might have confused the artist with the boot brand, Timberland. Of course, that was probably intentional, as well as an homage,

since Timberland’s classic 6-inch wheat boot at the time was de rigueur for any hip-hop artist and just about every fan—male and female, urban and suburban.

“Artists and fans alike adopted Timberland boots as a symbol of authenticity, of their own individualistic style,” confirms Lisa Demarkis, global vice president of product for Timberland. A legion of other boot styles in a rainbow of hues followed. Popular brands of the day included Mountain Gear, Fubu, Avirex, Lugz and Havana Joe.

What has also followed in the years since the explosion of hip-hop’s popularity is a range of styles across all categories of footwear. It has moved from the casual realm of sneakers into the designer tier. “What hip-hop did was make fashion more casual versus buttoned-up and stiff—it’s a relaxed vibe,” says Matt Fine, president of Shiekh Shoes in Los Angeles. Hip-hop’s growing influence on music, fashion, art, film and just about every cultural genre shows no signs of abating, nor does its tremendous influence on shoe fashion.

“Fashion has been directly associated with hip-hop—you can’t separate the two,” states Isack Fadlon, co-owner of Sportie LA, adding that the sneaker wasn’t really even a fashion item pre-’90s. It was an array of hip-hop artists that helped bring the silhouette to the front lines of fashion. The roster includes collabs between Jay-Z/Reebok (Sean Carter collection), 50 Cent/Reebok (G-Unit), Snoop Dogg/Adidas (Snoop Lion), Pharrell Williams/Adidas, Tyler, The Creator/Vans, Lil Wayne/Supra (Spectre), Rihanna/Puma and Kanye West/Nike, Louis Vuitton and, most recently, Adidas—just to cite a few.

Lance Jackson, vice president of L.A. Gear, sees the col-laborations as a natural fit. “Hip-hop musicians have always had a good sense of materials and colorways; they’ve always

WRihanna: Puma’s new creative director for women’s products.

Kanye West x Luis Vuitton

Kanye West x Adidas

Eminem x Air Jordan

Pharrell Williams x Adidas

Jay Z (a.k.a. Sean Carter) x Reebok

Kanye West

The epicenter of hip-hop

fashion: Timberland’s classic 6-inch

boot.


Above: Notorious B.I.G.; below: The Beastie Boys at Club Citta Kawasaki, Japan

been adept at coordinating their outfits and they don’t just throw things on,” he says. “They choose unique items and a style they’re passionate about.”

“Hip-hop stars express themselves through their songs and how they look. It will continue to evolve and mix new fashions, and new looks that express artists’ individuality will come through and inspire kids to follow,” says Killick Datta, CEO of International Brand Partners, makers of Ccilu. And, Datta adds, urban kids who listen to hip-hop set the fashion pace for the rest of the country and—increasingly—the world.

The urban footwear category has come a long way. Back in the mid-’90s, brands often balked at being labeled “urban,” afraid it might scare away Middle America. It turns out Middle America was listening to the same music. In fact, as designer Karl Kani told Footwear Plus in an April/May 1995 article on urban fashion’s growing influence: “There is nothing bad about street fashion. My clothes are for everybody. There is no color barrier.” Can you even imagine someone having to make such a statement today? The times sure have changed. •

SHOE RHYMESRapping about shoes is as much a status symbol as sporting them.

Run D.M.C., “My Adidas” “My Adidas and me, close as can be/We make a mean team, my Adidas and me”

Kanye West, “New God Flow” “I ain’t tryin’ to stunt man/But these Yeezys

jumped over the Jumpman”

50 Cent, “Stunt 101” “In the ’hood they say 50 man your sneaker

look right, yo/Just can’t believe Reebok did a deal with a psycho.”

Ghostface Killah ft. Jadakiss, “Run” “My Timbs start feeling like they Nike Airs on me”

2Pac, “California Love” “In L.A. we wearing Chucks not Ballys”

Beastie Boys, “Shadrach” “More Adidas sneakers than a plumber’s got pliers”

Nelly, “Air Force Ones” “I said give me two pairs/(cuz) I need two pairs/So I can get to stomping in my Air Force Ones”

Slick Rick and Doug E. Fresh, “La Di Da Di” “Threw on the Bally shoes and the fly green socks”

Nas, “Reach Out” “This is reminiscent to all the parks in the projects/When my British Knights, can rival your Foamposites/Don’t make me pull my Lottos out the closet”

Notorious B.I.G., “Hypnotize” “Timbs for my hooligans in Brooklyn”

T.I., “My Air Forces” “Don’t care how many shoes I get, when all else fails them the shoes I pick/And I walk like so I don’t bruise my kicks”

Canibus, “How We Roll” “More lines than a million pair of Adidas.”

Viktor Vaughn, “Saliva” “And just for kicks make ‘em gel like Asics”

Nas, “Halftime” “With more kicks than a baby in a mother’s stomach”

A$AP Rocky, “Goldie” “My Martin was a Maison rock Margielas with no laces”

Lupe Fiasco, “Me and My Sneakers” “My sneakers more cleaner than yours, more meaner, more cleaner than yours”

GREAT BRANDS STAND THE TEST OF TIME.CONGRATULATIONS ON 25 YEARS, FOOTWEAR PLUS!

Contact Mike Mangiaracina to schedule a previewof the latest Woolrich Footwear styles. [email protected]


retail_wisdom_quotes_14_outlines.indd 52 4/20/15 4:48 PM

This spring, thousands of footwear employees are coming together to give back. Are you?

www.twoten.org/footwearcares

The Finer ThingsBob Infantino, CEO of Drydock Footwear, makers of Cobb Hill, has made a career

out of accenting the finer details and it’s paid big dividends for decades. By Greg Dutter

R E F L E C T I O N Syears

I’VE HAD MANY lengthy conversations with Bob Infantino over the past 20 years on the subjects of books, baseball, politics, brands, retail and, of course, shoes. But Infantino is a product person, first and foremost. He often goes into great detail about the subtle intricacies of a design. Not the killer stiletto kind, mind you, rather the type of shoes millions of men and women wear on a daily basis. Infantino is a comfort shoemaker, but there is nothing homogenized or bland about his approach to making shoes for the masses.

Infantino will dive into details like why the cross grain on the buttons or the burnish of a boot’s buckle make it that much more special, unique and, as a result, more likely to sell. He’ll go on about the distressed leather on a pair of driving mocs, how its supple richness wraps the foot like a second skin and how the extra crinkles, added flexibility and well-worn appearance give it that ‘favorite pair’ look and feel right out of the box. Often, such details stem from something he spied dur-ing one of his frequent shopping trips around the world, where he’s always in search of the undiscovered, rediscovered or new. In an age of mass com-moditization and mass communication, his relentless effort to include the finer details is the differentiator between a bunch of indiscriminate brown comfort shoes on the wall.

Infantino has made a career of this for more than 30 years, first with Rockport then with a near 20-year run at the helm of Clarks Companies, N.A. The team he fielded there grew the company into a nearly $800 million powerhouse. Infantino picked up where he left off about four years ago when he partnered with New Balance on the launch of Cobb Hill and started managing its non-athletic brands, Aravon and Dunham. Cobb Hill quickly resonated with its target audience of women seeking style and comfort. As for his latest career chapter, Infantino is about to take the reins of Rockport once the acquisition deal by Berkshire Partners and New Balance is finalized with Adidas.

Infantino’s approach to shoemaking extends to brand building and corporate culture. In all my company HQ visits over the years, few stand out for their set-tings, décor and vibe as much as Clarks and Drydock. The warm colors, exposed brick and chef ’s kitchens…they are places that I would be happy to work in—live in, even. And Infantino’s focus on making every employee feel welcome is also noteworthy. While he’s a product guy, he’s smart enough to know that without people he’d be nowhere.

When asked what he loves most about the industry after all these years, Infantino cites the camaraderie of his team members, many of whom have fol-lowed him from career stop to stop or have rejoined him after spending time in other corporate cultures. “I’ve been with some of these people for 30 years,” he says. “Our approach to culture is to infect the whole petri dish in order to make everybody excited about being in a company that’s doing great things, making money and enjoying it along the way.” In regard to the latter, Infantino adds, “You want them to understand that the best things in life are free.”

Is this about to be a full circle career moment for you? It would be a remarkable circle and something I never imagined. But it’s still

about getting the shoes right for the market. This time I think we’ll get it extremely right, because we have all this great experi-ence to fall back on.

What have been some of the biggest changes in the industry over the past 25 years? The consolidation of the department store world and the emer-gence of the Internet. We’ve had to tier our business and do a lot of product development so that we could satisfy those customers and still have relevant, top-end product for our independents. We’re serious about the independents—we believe in them.

Why, exactly?The most important thing you can do running a shoe company today is to be in the independent stores. That also means talking to good owners and sales associates in order to understand their business better than your competition. Over the years there were times I didn’t do it as much and I didn’t realize what I was missing. During the launch of Cobb Hill I visited many of these stores and rediscovered that they are the Holy Grail. That’s where this business lives.

Many have written off the tier entirely or, at best, say it’s dying.I really believe there are still neighborhoods in this country. When I travel to Minneapolis, for example, and visit Schuler Shoes and see the loyalty of their customers…It’s because they run a great store. It is the same at Harry’s or Tip Top in New York. Of course, certain consumers will shop online, but I think a lot of people still want to touch and feel. They’re not going to just sit in their house and whack at their computer all day. They have to get out. And good retailers know how to merchandise their stores so that consumers have to go there if they want to find those products and receive that kind of service. I also believe there’ll always be an element of people who want to have relationships and talk to one another. You can’t call it a backlash, but there’s been some pushback of late to just always being on your phone.

Shop local, farm-to-table, handmade goods—it’s all a part of that.People want connection. It’s funny, they call it ‘social media,’ but it’s almost the opposite. It’s not social. You’re not actually talking to people. Social is looking someone in the eye and having a conversation. Rather than post pictures of me on Mt. Kilimanjaro, I’d rather have dinner with you and tell you about it.

So I suspect the shoe store, as we know it, will still exist in 25 years?Absolutely. Now, will there be less of them? Probably. But I think there’s always going to be really good storeowners who understand how to keep their custom-ers happy. There are people being born right now that are going to have new ideas and ways to get people excited about shopping in a store. Look at Uniqlo. If you pass by, you have to go in because they’ve made such a circus out of it. You want to see what it’s all about. Tarek [Hassan of The Tannery] is another example. His stores are always changing and he’s always reinvesting in them. What fun is it if you lose all that contact with consumers? •


Bob and Joe_03.indd 54 4/20/15 3:14 PM

What are the notable industry shifts of the past 25 years? The consolidation of department stores and the diminution of the overall number of retailers. Also, I would have never predicted how the dress shoe business could shut off on a dime. It seems like women have a conference call and decide what the next trend is overnight. They also don’t want to pay full retail anymore, thanks to the Internet. Comparative shopping makes the consumer very smart. Plus, the growing importance of discount stores such as Nordstrom Rack and T.J. Maxx, to name a few. It took us out of the comfortable margins we used to work with.

What do you know now that you wish you knew back then? The impact online retail would have. I never thought it would reach such magnitude. Although I’m surprised how hard it is to show a profit; most of them seem to be losing money.

What would you have done differently? I would have an army of social media specialists working for me.

What must you always try to do in this business? Choose the right busi-ness partners. Don’t just do business with anyone. Pick the right retailers the same way they try to pick the right wholesalers.

The one that got away? I remember doing a luxury sneaker line, UES, with Seth Campbell a few years back. We were right on but we just came out a few years early. Today, I believe UES would be a major brand in the world. I now wear mostly luxury sneakers. They even go with a black tie. [Sneakers], in my opinion, is the category of our time.

The hits? The most successful license in our history was Bebe, in the early ’00s. Betsey Johnson was also a good run. And we are in our ninth year with Badgley Mischka and I would not trade it for anything else right now. It’s our star license and we are having an amazing run. Occasion shoes are paying our bills these days.

What are you most proud of? Having maintained an impeccable reputation. It means a lot to me. I can name so many shady and unethical people out there. It makes me want to be even more of a stand-up person. It’s hard to do.

What might the industry look like in 25 years? My crystal ball tells me that it’s going to get worse before it gets better. We have to adjust and react to all these drop-ship demands and even consignment wishes of some retailers. It’s not fun but as long as some wholesalers are willing to do it, it will force us to follow suit. Our future success will depend on our design skills and brand power. If we make the deals I am working on right now, we should be set for the next 10 years, at least. —Greg Dutter

Ladies’ ManJoe Ouaknine, CEO of Titan Industries,

sounds off on hits, misses and wishes over 25 years in the women’s designer game.

Bob and Joe_03.indd 55 4/20/15 3:14 PM


T R E N D S P O T T I N G

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Happy Anniversary, Footwear Plus

and thank you for yourconstant support!

white noise

PHOTOGRAPHY BY TREVETT MCCANDLISS MEN’S GROOMING BY ENID SEYMORE.

STYLING

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Feit leather sneakers, Carvan

jacket, T-shirt by Gap, A.P.C.

denim.

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From top: canvas sneakers, tennies by . Opposite page, left to right: hi-tops, denim jacket by A.P.C., T-shirt by Gap, Calvin Klein tuxedo pants; hi-tops by ,

jacket and jeans by Levi’s, button-up by A.P.C., Gap T-shirt.


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From top: Creative Recreation trainers, hi-tops by Geox. Opposite page: Vans slip-ons, Calvin Klein tuxedo jacket, T-shirt by Gap, denim by A.P.C. Models: Miles/Red Model Mgmt., Dennis O.


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From top: Creative Recreation trainers, hi-tops by Geox. Opposite page: Vans slip-ons, Calvin Klein tuxedo jacket, T-shirt by Gap, denim by A.P.C. Models: Miles/Red Model Mgmt., Dennis O.


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Miista western-inspired boots, Marc Jacobs

blouse, coated denim by Current/Elliot.


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Melissa silver pump. Opposite page: Schutz pointed toe pumps, dress and belt by Southpaw Vintage.


Vintage button-down and vest by Ann Demeulemeester, stylist’s own slip, scarf from Southpaw Vintage. Opposite page: Max Martin lace-up, peep toe pumps, Topshop dress, stylist’s own moto jacket and necklace.


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L.A.M.B. pointed toe pumps with ankle cuffs. Opposite page: Yves Saint Laurent blouse and vest from Southpaw Vintage.


7 1


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Charles Jourdan platform peep toe bootie, Charles David mule with buckle detail. Opposite page: Fortress of Inca

stacked heel boots, dress by Club Monaco, Blk Dnm white leather jacket,

sash by Southpaw vintage, Falke tights.

Fashion Editor: Tara Anne Dalbow; hair and makeup by Alfred Lester/Utopia;

model: Margarita/Q Model Management.


Looking Good

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1. Creative Quarterly, design 2. Society of Publication Designers (SPD) design medal finalist 3. Graphis photography award, SPD design medal finalist 4. Graphis, Gold Medal for photography, Creative Quarterly, design 5. SPD design medal finalist, Graphis for design, Communication Arts design award 6. Creative Quarterly, photography 7. SPD Member’s Choice finalist 8. Creative Quarterly, design 9. Creative Quarterly 100 Best Artists of 2014 annual 10. Graphis Silver Medal for photography, SPD photography medal finalist, Creative Quarterly, photogra-phy and design 11. Folio Design Award 12. SPD design and photography awards 13. SPD design award 14. Creative Quarterly, design 15. Graphis for design, SPD design award 16. SPD Silver Medal for photography 17. SPD design award 18. Creative Quarterly, design 19. Tabbie award for photography 20. SPD design award; Creative Quarterly, design 21. Folio design award 22. SPD photography award 23. SPD photog-raphy and design awards 24. Pearl, gold award for design 25. Communi-cation arts typography award

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A sampling of the more than 40 editorial design excellence awards Footwear Plus has earned in the past decade alone.


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CAN A SHOE be your friend? According to Tim Robertson, head of whole-sale at San Antonio Shoemakers (SAS), the answer is absolutely yes. And he would know—SAS is perhaps best known for creating the Duo sandal, a shoe that’s made lots of friends since its debut in 1990 for its classic look and superior level of comfort.

The Duo combines the high–quality materials and skilled hand–craftsman-ship SAS is known for with the technology of its signature Tripad Comfort system, which involves multiple footbed layers and strategically placed foot–cushioning polyurethane pieces for maximum support. Like all of the company’s styles, each pair of Duos goes through a manufacturing journey at one of SAS’ two Texas factories (the original one in San Antonio or the second factory in Del Rio) that includes leather inspection, precision die–cutting and obsessively detailed construction. If wearing the Duo feels like walking on air, it’s not a coincidence—the sole is filled with millions of tiny air bubbles for comfort with each step. Suede covers the shock–absorbing footbed for a refined look, while three buckles—two at the front and one at the ankle—allow for a customizable fit.

The design of the Duo sandal was no accident; rather, it was a natural progression for the brand. “We’d been looking for a comfort sandal, and as new materials became available, we saw the opportunity to do our first sandal in the Tripad Comfort system,” Robertson says. “So there was cus-tomer demand out there from our other shoes that had Tripad...it was just a natural step to put it into a sandal.”

SAS recognized that its target consumer—devotees of the Tripad Comfort system—would be enthusiastic about the added benefit of adjustable straps that a sandal offered. SAS founder Terry Armstrong, along with several members of the research and development team, were responsible for bring-ing the Duo into existence. Speaking of Armstrong, Robertson says, “The master himself had the strongest hand in it for sure.”

When the Duo hit the market in 1990, the reaction was immediately positive. “We knew we had a hit from day one,” Robertson says, adding that sales–wise, the Duo “hit a million pairs [sold] relatively quickly.” Often, simple is best when it comes to footwear and Robertson credits the Duo’s “simplistic design” as key. He notes the Duo fits well, is adjustable and feels good underfoot—what’s not to like?

While the design approach to the Duo has largely been “if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it,” SAS has introduced a few relevant updates over the past quarter century. One element is material choice. “The leathers have certainly changed. I think leathers are better now than they ever have been,” Robertson says, describing today’s textiles as softer and more supple than their

predecessors. Of course, comfort is the priority, and as available technologies have evolved and advanced, so has the Duo. “The DNA of the shoe has been comfort...if we can update the comfort of it we certainly have,” Roberston says. He adds that around 12 years ago the sole and insole of the Duo were widened to provide an improved basis and fit.

Although the Duo’s core consumers remain folks who want a super–com-fortable, well–fitting shoe, the brand’s marketing and advertising efforts, which have been reinvigorated in the last year and a half, are exposing it and the brand to a wider audience. “There are a lot more people paying attention to the brand,” says Fran Yanity, head of marketing for SAS. “I’ve had people approach me and say, ‘I saw you in a magazine’ or ‘I heard about your catalogue...you’re not what I thought you were.’ We’re really just letting people know we have something for everyone, and it’s definitely catching on.”

Yanity says SAS is marking the 25th anniversary of the Duo by “[making] it fresh and different and fun and celebratory.” The result? A limited–edi-tion collection of Duo sandals that “showcases it in ways that it’s never been seen before.” The collection, available through July, features a variety of new options, including shiny metallic leathers, bright colors, pastels and “rhinestone bling” accents.

The story of the Duo proves that while trends come and go, comfort and fit are timeless. While Robertson says 1995 was probably the highest volume year for the shoe, the overall sales have been constant and it remains one of SAS’ strongest sellers. When asked why consumers love the Duo so much, Robertson cites its classic look, adjustability, Tripad Comfort system and broad range of sizes and widths. That last aspect is particularly worth not-ing: The Duo is available in sizes four through 12, as well as in five widths (slim through double wide).

Robertson says another aspect fueling the success of the Duo and SAS as a whole is its close working relationships with retailers, an approach he characterizes as “grassroots.” “We insist that our factory representatives are in the stores numerous times a year to explain all the new styles and technologies,” Robertson says.

David Munn, manager of the SAS store in Lancaster, PA, says it’s unusual for retailers to have such access to a vendor’s corporate side, but it’s all part of the company’s hands–on, service–oriented approach. To that end, SAS has built a loyal following in part by offering the same beloved styles year after year. “A lot of brands, you’re lucky to get three months out of it and then they’re off to another style,” Munn says. “Once [SAS has] a good style they stay with it.” And that consistency, Munn adds, is “good for the customer and it’s good for the retailer.” •

Dynamic DuoSan Antonio Shoemakers’ iconic Duo sandal

celebrates 25 years of elegant simplicity and unmatched comfort. By Kirby Stirland

25years

D.O.B: 1990


C L A S S I C S H O E SC O M F O R T C L A S S I C S


Just where are we at in terms of the portion of overall sales when it comes to online shoe buying?

I believe we’re extremely early. We can see it in the growth rates where online continues to outpace brick-and-mor-tar. We’ve conducted a lot of customer research and shop-pers tell us that online shoe shopping is “empowering.” To me, an empowered consumer is an active one, and this

says there is still great opportunity to expand the migration to shopping online. It’s especially interesting to look at the younger generation—those in their early 20s, for instance. With mobile at the center of everything they do, online shopping will be innate to them as their purchasing power grows.

Back in the mid-’90s most industry experts said consumers would never buy shoes in a meaningful way online. Why were so many so wrong?Consumers, essentially, were asked to choose between the freedom, con-venience and ease-of-use that the online experience offered and the abil-ity to handle and try on the product. The consumer has been increasingly willing, happy and trusting enough to shift to the online experience. We’re able to provide more information and quality content to the consumer—information on fit, materials, dimensions and details—coupled with direct customer feedback and reviews. The experience comes to life for the shop-per and there’s an additional level of trust between the customer and the online retailer. As this has all evolved, with more tools becoming available, the success has just continued. So over time, as the experience for the cus-tomer became more robust, performance increased and more quality prod-ucts became available for customers, shopping for shoes online has really won over consumers who have become very loyal to these retailers that keep the focus on the customer’s experience.

In what ways has the online tier benefitted the industry and consumers?Online shopping really means full-time access; we’re always open, which has certainly helped aid in the footwear industry’s appeal on that front. For the industry, it’s clearly a good thing to be just a couple of keystrokes away from your customers. And consumers gain convenience and freedom through online shopping, as well. They can browse and shop at their lei-sure and on their terms. This fits well with a retailer who is always open.

Is there anything you know now that you wish you knew when you first joined ShoeBuy in 2004?I really like where we are today, and our path has gotten us to this place. I think a company needs to go through some growing pains to become stronger, and we’ve certainly all learned a lot along the way. I’m not sure I’d change any of that. But if there was one thing I could have done differently, it would’ve been to bring more of our team in-house sooner.

What are you most proud of? Over the last 24 months, we have worked on a significant transition here at ShoeBuy, culminating in our recent rebranding. We have made vast and transformational enhancements and changes to our site, and with more still to come. I’m extremely excited about our progress to date and more so about what comes next. I’m also extremely proud of the talent we’ve assem-

R E T A I L R E G I S T E R

Online, On FireMike Sorabella, CEO of ShoeBuy, on why

the rapidly growing retail tier is such a hit with shoe shoppers—and it’s still early in the game.

bled here, and I’m eager to see how we can now apply our team’s skills to really propel the business forward.

Looking into your crystal ball, what might ShoeBuy and online shoe retailing look like in 25 years? Access to shopping will continue to increase dramatically. I think we will see shopping become completely on the fly, with buy-as-you-go and buy-as-you-see options at the forefront. Everything will become just a click or so away. For example, if you’re walking down the street and you see some-one wearing a pair of shoes you like, there will be ways for you to click and buy right then and there, wherever you are. Personalization will also really come to life. There will always be a need for shoes, but I expect the indus-try will continue to move more towards the aspirational so that people can really voice their personality through what they wear. —Greg Dutter

Keeping TabsIt’s a tough business, always evolving and

ever competitive. Here are some recent hot-button topics industry members are buzzing about.

MALL BLIGHT“I’ve always preferred to operate freestanding stores. Malls in America are decaying. We provide a more civilized way to shop. You can park in front, walk in and get the full retail experience.” —Stanley Eisenman, owner, Stanley Eisenman Fine Shoes

POP-UP CULTURE“Pop-up retail is a way to convey a message that’s never been seen before, never been done before. It’s a whole new way for merchants to connect with consumers.” —Christina Norsig, founder, Pop-Up Insider

“We’re an online retailer first and foremost, but in 2009 we opened a pop-up shop in a great location. We were only planning to be there for 30 days, but customers loved it, so we kept the store open.” —Bryce Morrow, CEO, Solestruck

SHOWROOMING WOES“We can’t afford to be fitting people and paying hourly wages for that kind of nonsense.” —Edith James, owner, Comfort Shoe Specialists

“It’s the way of the world today. You have to deal with it. But people buy from people they like. We’ll bring out the entire stockroom if we have to.” —Marty Green, co-owner, Just Our Shoes

OMNI ZONE“It’s not just about having a physical location anymore. You’re using all of the available technology and social media tools to build your business.” —Bob Negen, retail analyst

“There are terms being tossed around like omnichannel and CRM (customer relationship manage-ment), but I think most people can’t even define what those really mean. Really defining them requires get-ting on the floor and finding out what consumers want from your brand, wherever they find it.” —Kevin Bailey, president, Vans

BROTHERS UP IN ARMS“One of the biggest challenges is vendors selling their product online.We believe in those brands, bring in their merchandise and sell their goods—only for some brands to go online and cut their prices.” —Marguerite Satian, president, Shoes 4 Comfort “It feels like we’re transitioning from a very partner-driven relationship with vendors to suddenly asking ourselves, how much information do we want to give them because they can use it to better compete against us.” —Mark McKnight, marketing/ creative director, Rock/Creek Outfitters

FW_04_05_retail_register_02.indd 76 4/20/15 11:04 AM

ONE DAY IN 1997, a box containing the first sample pairs of Merrell’s Jungle Mocs was placed in front of designers Charles Willis and Clark Matis. Their cre-ation—the first real fusion of a performance outsole

with a casual upper—had been through numerous modifications and bolts of inspiration, and they were about to see the final result.

Willis still vividly remembers the moment he opened the box. “It was one of those ‘wow’ moments,” he recalls. “When we opened it and saw the first samples, we knew we had something.” Except, at first, they weren’t sure what they had.

The original concept for the Jungle Moc was an outdoor shoe for skiers and hikers to wear when they weren’t in their boots. It could be slipped on and was compact enough to fit in a backpack, and the athletic outsole was designed for comfort on variable terrain. Merrell initially targeted the shoe at outdoor enthusiasts, but market demand had other things in store. Within weeks of the shoe’s release in Europe, it was flying off shelves, and the same scene was repeated soon after in the United States.

Why? According to Willis, the design appealed to a much larger segment of consumers than anyone at Merrell had anticipated. “We were going for this specialist little niche guy who wanted something comfortable he could slip on, and, of course, it was just the right time in society; everybody was look-ing for that,” he says.

Since ’97, the company has sold more than 10 million pairs. Celebrities from Ray Romano to Oprah Winfrey have sung its praises, and for years it was a favorite among British rockers. The appeal is unusually broad, Willis notes, adding that he’s seen Texas cowboys trade their boots for the highly functional style.

The Jungle Moc launched the same year Merrell was acquired by Rockford, MI-based Wolverine Worldwide, and solidified the brand’s place as a major player in outdoor and lifestyle footwear. “There was a high level of comfort and trust in the Merrell brand from our outdoor enthusiast consumer, and it carried over to the casual side of our business,” says Steve Peterson, Mer-rell’s vice president of sales. “The trend continued attracting consumers who were not familiar with Merrell. Once they experienced our brand and prod-uct, they became loyal customers to both categories.”

The new parent company’s presence contrib-uted to the Jungle Moc via the addition of Wol-verine’s performance suede to the upper. The idea for the octopus-like sucker design on the sole came to Willis and Matis during a night out to dinner. “We were in a restaurant having a bottle of wine and ordered calamari,” Willis remembers. “I still have a napkin with some sketches of it.” At first the design was highly decorative, but slowly Matis and Willis removed more of the pieces and panels. The result was a super-clean upper on an athletic bottom. “It

was one of the original—if not the original—hybrid shoes,” Willis says.The Jungle Moc took off about three weeks earlier in Europe than in the

States, and Willis describes the start as “explosive.” But despite the sudden success, not everyone at Merrell was sold from the start. “When the Jungle Moc was introduced, it was a radical departure from anything we had ever done or anything in the marketplace at the time,” Peterson notes. “There were many skeptics on the Merrell team and in the retail community.”

Jacques Lavertue, former vice president and general manager of Wol-verine, who died in October 2007, supported the innovative Jungle Moc from the start. Lavertue was an integral part of the Merrell brand for the last 15 years. “We knew we could be something through design, and Jacques absolutely championed and encouraged and pushed us to break away from the norm,” says Willis, who worked closely with Lavertue from the beginning.

And it was the commitment to advanced design from Lavertue and others on the Merrell team that caused the Jungle Moc to become a staple around the world. Today the shoe is distributed to 120 countries. International fash-ion trends vary widely, but Willis says the Jungle Moc’s combination of com-fort, function, ease of use and value are universal draws. In fact, the price remained at $65 retail for a decade before going up to $80 retail. “The Jun-gle Moc survived for 10 years at its original MSRP because of how Merrell and our retailers have positioned not only this item but our entire brand in the market,” Peterson says.

Summit Hut in Tucson, AZ, has carried Jungle Mocs since they debuted and according to Charles Miles, a buyer for the store, “It continues to be a great seller and a really recognizable piece from Merrell. Certainly we’ve had other shoes from Merrell that have been successes, but I don’t think we’ve had any-thing for our store in the casual market that has been such a sustained success.”

At the style’s height, Summit Hut carried 14 versions of the Jungle Moc. “That was an amazing percentage of our casual wall at that time,” Miles adds. “I don’t know anybody [who] expected it to be that big.” He says customers were won over by the comfort and because the shoe was the first offering from an outdoor brand that crossed over so well. What keeps the brand popular is the many repeat customers Miles sees. “They have loved it for a long time

and are coming back for that second or third pair,” he says.

Willis offers a similar take on the Jungle Moc’s loyal following. When the shoe debuted, customers loved the design, and today many of those early fans have been wearing the shoes for over 10 years. “You can believe in yourself, but a success proves your belief,” Willis says. “I think the success we had with the Jungle Moc proved the belief that Jacques, myself, Clark and the management team had: that we could design our way to the future.” •

With its Jungle Moc, Merrell brought off-road footwear design to the streets. By Libby Page

Jungle LoveD.O.B: 1997


Reprinted from Footwear Plus;

Dec. 2007

C L A S S I C S H O E S 25years

C O M F O R T C L A S S I C S

FW_04_05_SAS_Duo_05.indd 77 4/20/15 11:50 AM

The Great DaneDansko’s Professional clog helped introduce

Americans to Euro comfort and change the lives of millions of professionals along the way. By Lauren Fusilier

AMANDA CABOT AND Peter Kjellerup never expected to go into the shoe business. In fact, the married couple’s first profession was importing and training world-class dressage horses. It was a horse-

buying trip that took them to Kjellerup’s hometown in Denmark, where they happened upon the shoes that would forever change their lives. All of the workers in the barns wore the same footwear—known by the locals as ‘farmer shoes.’ The Danish clogs featured closed backs, a rounded toe and durable leather uppers. She and Kjellerup picked up pairs for themselves, as well as their staff. “As my parents often told me,” she says, “if you’ve got something great to share, you share it. With that, Dansko was born.”

Dansko, whose name translates to “Danish shoe,” has benefited greatly from the sharing mentality. Cabot credits much of the initial success of the Professional clog, which they introduced to America in 1990, to the strong word of mouth recommendation the style received. “Our friends fell in love with the Professional, so they told their friends. And then their friends told their friends,” Cabot says. “Before we knew it, we had begun selling the clogs at horse shows, right out of the back of our station wagon.” Cabot soon spotted the clogs being worn outside of the local barns on dog walks, while traveling and hanging out with friends. She attributes the crossover appeal to the clog’s versatility and comfort. It just works really well as an everyday shoe.

“Comfort, support, ease of wear and versatility are the four most frequently lauded attributes,” Cabot says. While the CEO admits that the comfort features are somewhat hidden and unconventional, the shoe’s “firm and somewhat elevated platform, broad and rigid heel counter, generous fit, and rocker bottom” are the keys to what she describes as its exceptional ride. The Profes-sional, in fact, wears the American Podiatric Medical Association (APMA) seal of approval, which is granted to products that promote good foot health as determined by the association’s podiatrists.

“The Professional style is iconic because it has a unique construction that is extremely supportive under the foot, making it comfortable and giving all-day support,” agrees Ed Habre, president and CEO of The Shoe Mill, a comfort chain based in Portland, OR, and one of Dansko’s original retail partners.

In addition to its proven comfort benefits, retailers cite variety as a main factor behind the Professional’s long-running appeal. Season after season the style has undergone numerous color, material and pattern updates that give the closet staple a fresh take for loyal wearers, as well as whet the appetites of new custom-ers. Indeed, the style has boasted more than 1,000 different upper iterations, from hair calf to patchwork leather, felt to boiled wool, even neon bubbles to a zoo full of animal print patent leathers. The outsole has also seen dif-ferent dressings, such as wood grain stains and braided jute.

The updates on the classic, reports Dave Bailey, co-founder of Danform Shoes based in western Vermont, is what has kept his customers coming back year after year for their next Professional clog fix. “The comfort is the starting point and then [the consumers] talk about the colors,” he says. “The customer is basically buying the same great shoe, just with different upper materials.” Bailey adds that this formula assures customers get the same high-quality clogs they know and trust, but it also provides incentive to buy several differ-ent styles—often within the same season. “So many different upper materials allow consumers to boldly express their individuality,” Cabot says.

Sales of the Professional grew steadily over the first few years and took off when it caught on with people working in the healthcare, restaurant and education fields. Many of these professionals cite, in particular, its incredible support that allows them to stand comfortably for extended periods of time. Cabot notes that from the brand’s second year onward, consumers began asking for similar comfort in other silhouettes, and it wasn’t too long after their launch that the couple set aside their equestrian business and became full-time shoe people. The Professional has served as the cornerstone to what was once affectionately referred to as “the little clog company” and is now a full-fledged footwear brand sold by thousands of retailers. Dansko is also a company renowned for its core values regarding environmental conservation, charitable initiatives and employee support.

Retailers like Habre praise the brand’s other styles that stay true to its com-fort foundation. “Dansko has done well in adapting their footwear offerings to meet the style preferences of their fans by producing products that meet their style needs and have the Dansko ‘comfort DNA,’’’ he says. “The Professional is probably in the top 10 styles we have ever had in the history of our company,” he notes. (The Shoe Mill first opened its doors in 1978.) “It has been foundational to our success as a Euro comfort footwear retailer.” The same can be said for Danform Shoes who also opened their first doors in 1978. “Without a doubt, it is the shoe we’ve sold the most pairs of in our history,” Bailey says. “I’d be very surprised if we haven’t sold 20,000 pairs.”

Cabot never underestimates the importance of the Professional to Dansko’s overall business. In fact, the company is always looking for ways to improve upon its classic clog. “In 2011, we launched the Pro XP collection with a softer, more cushioned insole that could be swapped out, as well as added a slip-resistant outsole suitable for wet or oily workplaces,” she says. Fashions may come and go, but these shoes never go completely out of style. They stand

the test of time. Cabot says Dansko is dedicated to meeting the

demand, be they the loyal ‘Fandanskos’ or the newly converted. “The Professional is here to stay,” she prom-ises. “We will continue to keep it fresh by introducing new materials and treatments, as well as continually evolving the way we deliver on our comfort promise through our commitment to innovative construction and craftsmanship.” •

D.O.B: 1990


25years

Reprinted from Footwear Plus;

Dec. 2014

C L A S S I C S H O E SC O M F O R T C L A S S I C S


example, that people would be running marathons for fun to the extent that they are today. People have discovered that running can change your life.

And Chanel, Gucci, etc. are now chasing the sneaker companies? Right. Human beings invariably move from discomfort to comfort, and they don’t go back. Nobody says, “I miss my uncomfortable mattress, chair or shoes, etc.” Nobody says that. Along the way, people have discovered comfort without sacrificing style. I remember having arguments about the widths of last shapes and some people saying if it’s too wide women will never buy it. That has turned out to be untrue. They sure have bought Uggs—the antithesis of a narrow last. It just proves, in the end, that com-fort is king, and technology has created a baseline of comfort in virtually every shoe that is out in the market today. Those technologies, by the way, stem 100 percent from the running shoe industry.

What have you been surprised by most?The prevalence of people buying shoes online. When Zappos first came out I kept saying, “Who is going to buy shoes online? You have to try them on first.” Maybe it’s because they can buy five pairs and ship four of them back for free? So the whole nature of commerce has changed as a result, which is also surprising to me. Because, if you think about it, in what business model is that kind of return rate going to work? None, really.

Is it working for shoes?I don’t know. Amazon doesn’t break out Zappos’ numbers. There may be a new standard of profit in that there’s more money in the overall relation-ship with the consumer. So long as Amazon is able to sell other stuff, it may be more valuable than the lost margin selling shoes and dealing with so many returns.

Free shipping has been a factor, but selections of 90 different colors and patterns of Chuck Taylors, for example...shoppers never saw that in brick-and-mortar stores before online retailing.Especially when you know how that shoe fits and feels, like with Ugg, it is a huge draw. But it’s another thing to try on a pair of To Boot New York shoes that you’ve never worn before. It’s changed the whole nature of the supply chain—that UPS and Fed-Ex have evolved as rapidly as they have to meet the demand is amazing. Another aspect I find amazing is mobile e-commerce. Again, 20 years ago, I would have never predicted that peo-ple would shop this way. I would have said maybe in 50 years. Now it’s just normal. A kid born within the past 15 years will think not being able to shop like this would be like living in the Dark Ages.

Is this 25-year span particularly noteworthy for the pace of change?I think so. Pretty soon we are going to have computers thinking about com-puters and accelerating change at a rate that the human brain can’t keep up with. At what point, however, does the consumer—the human being—push back and say, “I can’t keep up with this?” I think, to some extent, you are seeing elements of that with movements like farm-to-table, shop local, handcrafted, etc. People want to get back to stuff that is not so commod-itized. As long as it’s something unique, is authentic and delivers a bene-fit that the wearer can’t get any other way, then there’s a market to be had.

What are you most proud of ?I’m proud that I was involved in the invention of the athletic footwear indus-try, particularly helping bring women into fitness and sports. I’m proud of the Reebok Human Rights Awards and what we did for improving work-ing conditions in footwear factories. And I’m super-proud of helping cre-ate jobs. That’s what I’m all about: What do our employees gain out of all of this? How do they benefit from being in this enterprise? Deckers Brands now has 4,500 employees worldwide. When I started here [in 2005], we had 140. That’s a lot of jobs. •

continued from page 48/Angel Martinezlearn and avoided the scars that went with them. Personally, I wish I had a little keener appreciation for how fast the world was going to become a cohesive marketplace and had an even faster focus on people in our team. You can have great brands and great global distribution, but if you don’t have a great team eventually you are going to suffer.

Also, knowing more about the importance of the innovation pipeline, which is critical. We operate in a fast-paced fashion world and it’s a dynamic industry. You’ve got to have a pretty deep innovation pipeline in a number of different areas—not just product creation, but in demand creation, business process and everything else. A last one would be knowing the incredibly swift rise in China’s consumer market. Everybody kind of understood that possibility 20 years ago, but to see the way China has developed and at the speed has been pretty incredible.

So in addition to wanting to know everything, those are a few specifics that I wish I knew more about earlier.

What have you been surprised by most?How different markets have developed around the world and the pace of that development has been a surprise. You have some markets that, on paper, should be leaders and a few of them have struggled a bit. Then you have other markets that have really leapt ahead and shined. Certainly, the Asia/Pacific market is one in particular. It’s been a focus of ours for many years but one that probably should have been a bigger focus of ours for many decades.

Looking into your crystal ball, what might this industry look like in 25 years? Will we still recognize it?Fundamentally, there’s going to be more consolidation. The big will get bigger. I think successful brands are going to become more global. I also think speed and acting with a sense of urgency is going to be essential for any business, especially in our industry. Twenty-five years ago we used to say the big eat the small and today it’s really the fast that eat the slow. When I look ahead 25 years, I think some of the real winners will be those companies and brands that intimately know their consumers, they operate with a direct-to-consumer mindset, they have great product creation capabilities, they own their brands and they operate by think-ing globally first and not on a particular country or region. And lastly, it always comes back to the people and the companies with the best team and talent pipeline.

Do you think the shoe store as we know it will still be around? I think brick-and-mortar retail is still going to be around. But I think it’s going to continue to change and that change over time could be dramatic. In just the last several years, consumer expectations have heightened incredibly. Ironically, the consumer didn’t ask for this additional power, but technology and having that kind of information at your fingertips has given it to them. And I think that is just going to continue. It’s interesting to me: 25 years ago a weekend trip to the mall was a ritual, right? Now I see people shopping on an airplane at 35,000 feet at 11 p.m. returning from China. That kind of change in behavior is going to continue to drive significant change not just in our industry, but across retail.

What do you love most about the footwear industry?That it’s dynamic, fast-paced and made up of lots of great and well-intentioned people. We move at a pace that is unusual for many industries. It keeps things very interesting and fresh, which I personally enjoy. For comparison’s sake, a director at Caterpillar Inc. once told me the company sold about 125,000 products a year, which spanned from parts to huge tractors. Today, our company sells more than 100 million pairs annually. That puts it into perspective. It’s that kind of variety and fast pace that makes for a long and rewarding career. You certainly can’t get bored in our industry. •

continued from page 34/Blake Krueger

FW_04_05_reflections.angel_03.indd 79 4/17/15 2:39 PM

THE KEY TRAIT of the Keen Newport sandal is easy to spot: Just look for the large rubber toe bumper. This, perhaps the shoe’s most important feature, serves as a fix to the problem that designer Martin Keen sought to solve when he debuted the world’s first true hybrid sandal in 2003, which launched the namesake brand as well as an entire category of footwear.

Keen, a competitive sailor and outdoor-lover, saw the lack of practical footwear that was safe on both deck and trails. “There was a need in the market for a sandal that could protect your toes,” affirms Linda Tom Balfour, the brand’s marketing director. “There were plenty of great sport sandals out there, but there was a propensity to stub the toe.” Keen also wanted a shoe that could go easily from land to water and back again—a shoe that could transition from a hike to water and drain easily and rapidly afterward.

Instead of slapping a toe shield on a traditional sandal, Keen scrapped common sandal blueprints altogether, taking a fresh approach and building the shoe from the ground up. Led by an anatomical construction that was wider in the forefoot to allow room for toe splay, narrower in the heel cup for comfort and stability, arch and metatarsal support, a fingered strap upper that molded to foot shape and razor siping on the outsoles for traction, the Newport fit as wide an array of foot shapes as purposes it was designed to serve. The extra support, for example, assisted hikers and the traction and gripping helped keep boaters on their feet. And, of course, there’s the rub-ber bumper in front that kept toes protected. The Newport was the epitome of hybrid footwear design: part rugged hiker, part casual flip-flop. It was utilitarian, sporty and also had that attention-grabbing bubble toe guard that made passers-by take notice as well as recall the (painful) times they could have benefitted from such a nifty feature.

“Part of what’s made the Newport so popular is that fact that it disrupts you when you see it—you notice it,” affirms Tom Balfour. Retailers like Libby Holtz, buyer at Backwoods Mountain Sports in Ketchum, ID, agree. “The Keen toe bumper really makes people sit up and take notice,” she says, noting that the sandal sells to everyone from tourists in town for their first rafting trip to locals who wear them casually every day. “Once someone has them, they come back for another pair because they love them so much,” adds Paula Yang, buyer at Quest Outdoors in Louisville, KY. “They’re

comfortable and practical.”Whether picking up the classic waterproof leather Newport style or

reaching for the canvas uppered H2 edition, loyalty lies at the heart of the sandal’s fan base, which works in the brand’s favor as many outdoor per-formance brands now offer some version of a sandal with toe protection. But “Keen customers are like Volvo owners—they’re faithful to their brand for life,” according to Steve Schneringer, manager of the boat showroom at Andy & Bax Sporting Goods, in Portland, OR, where Keen’s headquarters are also located.

Over the years the Newport style has evolved to include new colorways, patterns and even a design-your-own program. It’s also transitioned from a performance shoe worn mainly by active people to an audience of more casual wearers as well as a kids’ wardrobe staple. Come summer camp season, Newports fly off the shelves across the country. “We look at the outdoors as a place without a ceiling and that makes us really open and accepting to all kinds of users—it’s really for anyone who likes to be outside and spend time out there comfortably, not just for uber-athletic people,” states Tom Balfour.

Another contributing factor behind the Newport’s enduring appeal—it’s built to last. Tom Balfour reports that reviews of the sandal after 10 years of use showed in-tact uppers and outsoles that still had decent treads on them. “You get this hybrid functionality made for adventure, fit that brings comfort and enduring durability,” she states. What’s not to like—or last? “It’s known for very long wearing and not stretching out—that’s definitely part of the iconic status,” affirms Schneringer.

An estimated 10 million pairs of Newport have been sold to date. Yang cites the Newport H2 as one of Quest Outdoors’ most popular selling styles, with between 50 to 100 pairs in each category (men’s, women’s and children’s) moving each season, which she says is a lot for the moderately-sized retailer in her neck of the Kentucky woods. “We’ve been carrying them for 11 years and they’re still going strong,” she says. Tom Balfour agrees: “The Newport will always be the cornerstone of the brand. It’s a reminder of our DNA, the hybrid thinking that drives us to always look for new solu-tions to problems and our commitment to looking at things differently.” •

Keen’s Newport sandal combines terrestrial and aquatic features to create a versatile trail-to-boat shoe. By Lauren Fusilier

Hybrid Species

D.O.B: 2003

25years


C O M F O R T C L A S S I C S

FW_04_05_SAS_Duo_05.indd 80 4/20/15 11:50 AM


FOOTWEAR NETWORK SERIES PRESENTED BY DECKERS BRANDS

that cause, that sense of why you exist. It tells people who you are, draws them in and makes them loyal. Otherwise, you’re just dealing with a commodity.”

2) Set priorities: People first, profits second.To research Leaders Eat Last, Sinek studied direc-tors, supervisors and chiefs everywhere from the boardroom to the combat zone. He found that the best leaders—and the most successful organiza-tions—value humans over numbers. His book’s title sprang from one inspiring example he observed: Senior U.S. Marines lined up last in the mess hall, sacrificing their own comfort until the needs of those in their care were met.

“Mass layoffs in the United States to balance the books did not exist prior to the 1980s,” says Sinek. “It’s disgusting that they’ve become normalized and that they’re so pervasive. Layoffs aren’t the only solu-tion. They’re just the easiest. Quite frankly, they’re the cowardly one. You might make your numbers in the short term, but the long-term damage to your staff, your culture, your morale and your prospects is devastating. Great leaders never prioritize a number over a person. They prioritize people over numbers.”

Skeptics might say the human factor has no impact on the bottom line, but Sinek offers numer-ous examples to support the notion that businesses thrive when they create what he calls a “circle of safety” for their employees—a work environment where employees don’t fear their colleagues, bosses or for their job security, and where they’re valued as human beings, not seen as line items or money-making machines.

“As a leader, you’re not responsible for the results,” says Sinek. “You’re responsible for the people who are responsible for the results. As a store owner, you’re not responsible for the number of shoes sold. You’re responsible for the sales associates who are responsible for the number of shoes sold. Any CEO or store owner who says, ‘My priority is my custom-ers’ doesn’t know their job. Your most important job is to look after your employees.”

Sinek’s advice: Do whatever you can to build their confidence, give them training to improve their skills and teach them how to deal with conflict. Make them feel like their work and their time are valued.

“What you’ll get is a workforce that cares so deeply about your store’s success that they’ll go out of their way to help you and your vision advance,” says Sinek.

Most businesses today penalize their people when-ever profits go down, he says. “But there’s tons of research that shows the more trust you give people, the more empowered and valued you make them feel, the more responsibility they’ll take on and the more they’ll want to help you succeed,” he says.

Treat your staff like family. People don’t get rid of their children because they get a C in a math class, Sinek points out. They hire a tutor. So if a staff member is struggling, don’t get rid of them. Give them help. Ask if they’re okay. Find out what

they need to improve. Believe it or not, the circle of safety can have a pro-

found impact on your customers. “I was at the air-port recently when a man tried to board before his number was called,” Sinek recalls. “The gate agent started yelling, ‘Sir, step aside! I haven’t called you yet!’ I asked why he would treat people this way. He said, ‘If I don’t follow the rules, I could get in trou-ble or lose my job.’ That told me the people who work for this airline don’t feel safe in their jobs and they fear their leaders. Guess who suffers. Both the customers and the company. Angry people make people angry. Happy people make people happy.”

3) Think camaraderie, not competition.Not only do customers know when employees are miserable or afraid of getting fired, they can sense when employees distrust each other. And the ten-sion poisons the buying environment.

“We’ve all been in stores where employees are incentivized based on commission and you feel like chum in the water with sharks coming at you competing for the sale,” Sinek says. When employ-ees have an every-man-for-himself attitude, shop-pers pick up on the negativity. In a well-run store, employees help each other—and that helpfulness extends to shoppers. If they’re fitting a customer, they don’t say, ‘Sorry, I’m with someone. You’ll have to wait.’ They find a colleague to help you, he says.

Beyond scrapping the commission model, Sinek offers several strategies to foster teamwork and amity. The first is public recognition in staff meet-ings for workers who go the extra mile. “The best is peer recognition, where each of your employees gets to choose who they consider the most valu-able team member, the one they can’t live without. It’s not always the person who performs the best. It might be the one who supports them the most. And the reward doesn’t have to be a bonus. It might be extra vacation time or just being told, ‘You were fantastic.’ Knowing your peers think you’re great and that your vote counts makes everybody work to a higher standard,” Sinek contends.

Honesty is equally important. “Tell your people the truth all the time,” he advises. “Don’t hedge. If the numbers are down and you’re struggling, say so. Explain what you’re doing well and what you haven’t figured out. Maybe you haven’t got the marketing mix right. Usually it’s the store owner telling every-body what to do. Instead, say you’re open to your staff ’s ideas. What do they want to try?”

When times get tough, that might not seem like enough. “The knee-jerk is to have layoffs, but it’s not the only option,” Sinek stresses. “My friend Bob Chapman [of the global capital equipment and engineering consulting firm Barry-Wehmiller Companies] lost 30 percent of his business in the 2008 slowdown. He couldn’t afford his labor pool, but he didn’t want to lose anyone. So he imple-mented a furlough program where everybody had

to take four weeks of unpaid vacation. When he announced it, he said, ‘It’s better for all of us to suffer a little than for any one of us to suffer a lot.’” Surprisingly, morale went up. And strange things started to happen: Employees who could afford five weeks without pay took an extra week so those who could afford it less would only have to take three weeks unpaid. The support happened organically because the group’s leader fostered an environment where people took care of each other, says Sinek.

“If you’re faced with financial pressure, it’s a hard choice,” he concedes. “You have to decide whether you have the courage to be the leader you wish you had, the one who will really fix the problem or just put a Band-Aid on it for the short term.”

4) Embrace change. It’s inevitable.“The retail world is spooked by the Internet because the new technology is affecting their numbers. But it’s just good old-fashioned competition,” says Sinek. “It’s like taxi drivers hating Uber.”

You can complain, or you can pick up your game. He cites Starbucks as an example. Sinek says research shows that whenever the chain opens a store, busi-ness picks up for nearby mom and pop coffee houses, partly because patrons make an extra effort to buy from the independent business. “I always try to sup-port independent coffee shops. But I’m lactose-intol-erant, and I can’t tell you the number of times I’ve gone into a mom and pop shop and asked if they have soy milk or almond milk only to be told no. So I walk out and go to Starbucks.”

When competition moves in, you can’t just com-plain about it. You must improve the quality of your product. “You don’t need a fancy store with crazy activ-ities,” Sinek assures. You just need a well-run store that embodies your core beliefs—your “why”—and where your people are protected by the circle of safety.

5) Learn to lead.“All the great leaders I’ve ever met consider them-selves students of leadership, not experts in it,” Sinek says. “If you want to become a better leader, you have to hone your craft.”

Leadership is a skill. You can learn to be a great leader, even if it doesn’t come naturally. And lead-ership is not a synonym for management, he cau-tions. Managers simply oversee a process. Leaders oversee people.

Where should you start? Read books, take classes (Sinek offers The Why Discovery Course for small businesses, at www.startwithwhy.com) and talk to people you consider effective leaders in any industry.

Finally, find someone who shares your goal of becoming a better leader. “Everything is easier if you have someone on the journey with you. You can encourage each other and hold each other account-able,” Sinek suggests. “We’re always at our best when we’re helping someone else overcome whatever chal-lenge we’re trying to overcome ourselves.” •

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started, so perhaps there were many different retail formats already, but I wasn’t aware of them. We always bought our shoes at the local shoe shop, and I don’t recall the specialization I see today—even within the indepen-dent tier. I think there’s more thoughtful curation of brands today by retail-ers. But because there are so many more ways to shop and so many places where consumers get their information, it puts even more pressure on retail-ers—and brands—to make their product and service offerings stand out.

What are you most proud of?Becoming a founding member of B Corporation—the first footwear com-pany to do so—was a big achievement. B Corps recognize that the purpose of business, any business, is to improve the lives of everyone their businesses touch, not just shareholders. We have a constellation of stakeholders: con-sumers, employees, vendors, retailers, our communities and our environ-ment. B Corps are judged by their ability to serve all of them. Transparency and third-party evaluations allow us to continually benchmark our prog-ress in many different areas. We’re certainly not claiming to be perfect, but being accountable is a step in the right direction.

Becoming 100 percent employee-owned is another. I’d like to think that being an ESOP is more than just a “grand experiment” in reducing eco-nomic inequality. I really believe that wealth should be shared with the peo-ple who help create it—for a whole host of reasons, not just because it’s the “right thing to do.” The power of shared ownership is in growing together, responsibly and profitably, celebrating our successes and rallying together in times of challenge.

I’m also proud of our Dansko Foundation—that it’s funded entirely by com-pany profits and run by employees. It’s a great way to introduce our employ-ees to the world of philanthropy and, of course, a great way to deepen our relationships with our community.

Looking back on the past 25 years, what are some of the biggest high-lights for you personally and for Dansko? Speaking with President Obama in late 2012 was a once-in-a-lifetime expe-rience for me. I had the extraordinary opportunity, with 13 other small busi-ness owners, to speak with the president about the financial crisis and the implications for our respective businesses. I told the story of Dansko, of its commitment to corporate social responsibility, of how it became employee-owned, and how it aligned with the president’s vision of expanding economic opportunity in relation to reducing inequality and promoting innovation and sustainability. I’m sure we didn’t make the president’s job any easier, but it certainly was a thrill to tell our story.

Receiving our first Plus Award (for design excellence) from Footwar Plus was another highlight. I remember our first nomination, attending the awards ceremony in Las Vegas and not winning; wishing that next year I could stand up and accept an award for Dansko. Several years and eight awards later (including the Corporate Goodwill and Best Customer Service awards), it has been a thrilling experience. Design awards are awesome, but being val-ued and appreciated by our retail partners reflects the efforts of everyone at Dansko. Those are great achievements.

Lastly, winning the T. Kenyon Holly Humanitarian Achievement Award from Two Ten, our industry’s quintessential humanitarian organization, took me totally by surprise. Two Ten is an extraordinary organization with an extraordinary mission, “Shoe People Helping Shoe People,” and being rec-ognized by them for humanitarian work was a tremendous honor.

Looking into your crystal ball, what might our industry look like in 25 years? What might you hope for?The environmentalist in me can’t wait for the day when we can design and produce consumer goods—in our case, shoes—that cause no environmental harm either in their production or in their ultimate disposal when their use-ful life is over. And although I consider myself a globalist in many respects, I do believe in supporting local economies, and would love to see more man-ufacturing expertise developed here at home.•

continued from page 47/Amanda Cabotable to do that. Now there are many great success stories—someone we have never heard of and, overnight, they have 250,000 followers on Twitter. Social media lets you sell to the world.

Looking back over 25 years, would you have done anything differently?Honestly, no. In today’s business, not many retailers are willing to take chances—like trying to discover new brands. But you have to be willing to take those chances and risks. We never stop doing that and, as a result, we never stop learning. Every day is a learning experience, and we have benefitted in some way from all of it.

What have you been surprised by most over this time span?Many trends come and go, but I’m amazed by the sneaker trend, especially how it has crossed over into other areas like women’s and the luxury market. Would you have ever thought sneakers would be worn with a suit? The world accepts it today. It’s incredible to see Chanel trying to copy Nike. I’m surprised how far the trend has come, how long it has lasted, how powerful it is and how far we can still take it.

A style once worn primarily by boys is now a leading fashion item for all.Correct. And I’m more in love with the trend now than I’ve ever been. I think sneakers will become even more meaningful over the next year or two. Every trend has an end, but I don’t see it slowing down yet. Maybe certain categories and brands, but other categories and brands will con-tinue to be strong. It’s important to be in the sneaker business today but, mind you, with the right brands and styles. You have to be careful and not think of it as just “sneakers.” It’s like saying every steak is a good steak, which is not the case.

What’s your take on the brown shoe side of the business?That business is not going anywhere. But, with all due respect because I’m old too, we need to give more opportunity to younger people to give the cat-egory a shot in the arm. It needs a fresh infusion of creativity. Much of it looks the same and you can’t tell me someone 60 years old sees the market the same way or is taking chances like someone who is 30 years younger. Where are the next really new ideas? Who is taking chances and innovat-ing? Of course, a lot of retailers are not willing to take chances either. They are to blame, too.

This business should take a page out of the sneaker playbook. Absolutely. And that’s one of the reasons why the sneaker world today is king. Look at Nike, for example. There are a lot brands that have a few great items, but Nike has great ones across all categories. In general, I have great respect for brands that keep consumers on their toes, but there are only a handful of ones that qualify. Brands that innovate, advance the design process and keep the flow of new products always coming are rare. They are brands that always take chances. They are not all sneaker brands, by the way. Ugg, for example, helped save a lot of businesses over the years with the success of their boots and how they kept updating them. That’s the cool thing about the shoe busi-ness: every year there’s something out there that can be great.

What are you most proud of?First, to be part of this industry. As big as it may seem, it’s relatively small and I can walk into just about any booth at a trade show or in an office and have a conversation for hours. It’s such a wonderful industry to be a part of. I’m very proud of the many great relationships we have built over the years with many great brands. The respect that we have gained from them and the opportunity they have given us means everything to me. Secondly, I’m very proud of my family. I was very fortunate to be able to work with my uncle (Sam Hassan), who gave me all the wishes anyone could wish to have—like owning the building, which allowed us to make our own decisions. I’ve been very fortunate. Lastly, I’m also very proud to be a part of this country and the opportunities it has given me. •

continued from page 40/Tarek

FW_04_05_reflections.mandy_03.indd 82 4/21/15 10:46 AM

store, he treated everyone the same.”That’s because “he loved his retail

partners and he loved being part of the footwear community,” says David Kahan, CEO of Birkenstock USA. “He genu-inely cared about his accounts and he wanted, more than anything, to never let anyone down.” Kahan adds, “Being in stores was his passion. He could talk about selling shoes to consumers for hours, not just with wholesalers.” During his 14-year tenure at Birkenstock, Kahan says Danny helped pioneer the Birki’s collection. More important, he helped spread the brand’s comfort gospel. He was one of a core group that worked for (then Birkenstock USA CEO) Margot Fraser and he lived the brand 24/7. “It was more than just a shoe company, it was a higher calling and he really lived it,” Kahan says, adding, “It was nice to know that he still wore Birkenstock while selling Earth Brands for women.”

Champion reports Danny’s sales performance at Earth Brands was unsur-passed. “Anywhere he was placed, it was the strongest piece of our business,” he says. “People would look at his numbers and ask, ‘How does he do it?’ And I’d say because he’s out there making it work.” Champion notes that in order to be successful in this business today it requires more than just product that sells because retailers have other options and, therefore, can choose to build other brands. “You need the relationship aspect, and Danny’s accounts believed that he’d always go the extra mile for them,” he says.

Case in point: Dave Astobiza, co-owner of the Sole Desire chain based in Santa Rosa, CA, who cites Danny as the sales rep for all reps to be measured

against. “Danny was the hardest worker in the shoe business, he cared about his customers and he did everything in his power for them to be successful,” he says. “He ran the best events, trained our staff and helped us buy the best shoes possi-ble.” Astobiza adds that Danny’s incred-ible work ethic, kindness and positivity rubbed off on anyone that was around him and he made the shoe business fun

and exciting. Even when times were tough, Danny had a way about him that gave Astobiza the will to work harder, try to improve and believe great things were always just around the corner—even if it sometimes required a little mis-chievous fun. For example, when business was tough, Astobiza would often text him, asking how other retailers were doing. Danny would respond that everyone he had talked to was doing amazing and, therefore, Astobiza’s stores must be the only ones doing poorly. “He loved to mess with me but he always had a way to make me feel good about myself in the end,” Astobiza says. “He made me feel good about being in the shoe business.”

And that may very well be Danny Silver’s greatest industry legacy: his gen-uine love of the shoe business and how infectious that was. “Danny united an industry and made everyone feel better about being a part of it,” Astobiza says. “He brought a smile to everyone he met—it was a gift and it will be sorely missed.” Adds Kahan, “Danny was happy to simply be in an indepen-dent shoe store every day of the week. The independents were his bullseye, his universe and his passion. Maybe his legacy can be the guardian angel of the independents—that would be nice.” •

“Danny [Silver] cared about his customers

and he did everything in his power for them

to be successful.”

continued from page 18

— Dave Astobiza, co-owner, Sole Desire

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