Footwear Plus | The Source for Retailers | 2011 • January

THE SOURCE FOR RETAILERS • JANUARY 2011 • $10.00

G OI NG MOBI L ESHOPPI NG A PPS TA K E OFF

OU T DOOR PR EV I E WV ER SATI L IT Y RU L ES

T U R N I NG GR AY H U E CU E FOR GU YS

EDITOR’S PICK SCOOL FOR K I LTI ES

THE BOOT ISSUE

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DIAL INPERSONALCOMFORT AND GO FURTHER.

GETTHEDISC

Wolverine’s Individual Comfort System™

Go further with less fatigue. Using Wolverine’s exclusive patented technology, simply adjust the disc under the insole to personalize your level of support for how you hike.

wolverine.com

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Visit Børn Footwear at OR | Salt Palace Convention Center, and at FFANY | 1441 Broadway, 14th Floor, New York, NY

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PLUS AWARDS: EXCELLENCE IN DESIGN FOR 2010

CONGRATULATIONS TO ALL NOMINEES!

ATHLETIC PERFORMANCEc Brooksc Asicsc Reebokc New Balance

ATHLETIC LIFESTYLEc Nike SBc Adidasc Conversec Vans

MEN’S COMFORTc Eccoc Merrellc Clarksc Rockport

WOMEN’S COMFORTc Danskoc Bornc Naotc Gentle Souls

BOOTSc Fryec Ugg Australiac Hunterc Nine West Vintage

RAIN BOOTSc Hunterc Chookac Tretornc Aigle

MEN’S DRESSc Florsheim by Duckie Brownc Cole Haanc John Varvatosc Harrys of London

WOMEN’S DRESSc Isola c Charles Jourdanc Pour La Victoirec United Nude

CHILDREN’Sc Primigic Skechersc Geoxc Ralph Lauren

WORKc Wolverinec Rockyc Red Wingc Timberland Pro

OUTDOOR c Merrellc Go-Litec Tevac Sorel

MEN’S STREETc Red Wingc Clarks Originalsc Camperc Sperry Top-Sider

WOMEN’S STREETc Steve Maddenc Restrictedc Bassc Jessica Simpson

WELLNESSc MBTc Earthc FitFlopc Aetrex

PRE-WALKERSc Livie & Lucac Primigic See Kai Runc Trimfoot

GREEN

Presented by LITE Leatherc Simplec Timberlandc Patagoniac Reef

ITEM OF THE YEARc Vibram FiveFingersc Ugg Australia/Jimmy Chooc Nativec Hush Puppies 1958

Collection

BRAND OF THE YEARc TOMSc Ugg Australiac Hunterc Danskoc Clarks

COMPANY OF THE YEARc Skechersc Deckers Outdoorc Brown Shoec H.H. Brownc Jones Groupc Clarks Companies N.A.

WINNERS ANNOUNCED FEBRUARY 1, 2011

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VIA SPIGA - MEN • CHENG’S TRADING INC • BUMPER • MICHAEL ANTONIO STUDIO • HELL FIRE • CARESSA • AMIGA SHOES FACTORY • DIZZY INC • EARTHIES • GRAVITY DEFYER • CLEOPATRA •

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MA BY MICHAEL ANTONIO • UGGLEBO URBAN • FANTASY SHOE COLLECTIONS • DEREON • WHITES BOOTS INC • BACIO 61 • MAT SCAN • WILD DIVA • HENRY FERRERA FOOTWEAR • GRIZZLE

VOLATILE GIRL • RHEMA • STAR BAY • RAGG FOOTWEAR • CARRUCCI SPORT • MASTERS FOOTWEAR INC • BRUNO VALENTI • NAUGHTY MONKEY • NAOT • PHILIP SIMON DEVELOPMENT INC • T

RIA • WINTERPROOF • ZOO YORK • MARILYN MONROE • WEATHERPROOF • ZIGI NEW YORK • DARIS SHOES • GRENADE • DBDK FASHION • ROCK AND CANDY BY ZIGI • GENERATION • ITASCA

CREATE EARTH CO. LTD • BACIO 61 • GRAMERCY • ITALIAN SHOEMAKERS INC. • E & R GENERATION FOOTWEAR • Z-COIL • ELLA • BEARPAW SHOES • C&L • FIRST SIGHT • TOP RANK • SING

COCO JUMBO • EARTH, INC • PINK DUCHESS • MONA MIA COLLEZIONE • WRANGLER • GOODWEAR SHOE CO. INC • PIU DI SERVAS • STUDIO 56 FOOTWEAR • HOLDEN & BRANDS INC • R

M. LEONARD INTERNATIONAL - GIESSWEIN • RIDE TECS • WHITING & DAVIS • PALOVIO • DEAD SEA TREASURES • EVERGREEN • MAKER’S • TENDER TOOTSIES • SIMPLE AND EASY • GOL

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INVERSIONES TEXTILES PSG S.A.C. • VITO FORTUNA • MOBILS BY MEPHISTO • UGGLEBO URBAN • FANTASY SHOE COLLECTIONS • WHITES BOOTS INC • MAT SCAN • WILD DIVA • HEN

RHEMA • STAR BAY • RAGG FOOTWEAR • CARRUCCI SPORT • MASTERS FOOTWEAR INC • BRUNO VALENTI • NAUGHTY MONKEY • PHILIP SIMON DEVELOPMENT INC • CONSOLIDATED SHOTHIELE TANNING COMPANY • RIA • WINTERPROOF • ZOO YORK • MARILYN MONROE • WEATHERPROOF • ZIGI NEW YORK • DBDK FASHION • ROCK AND CANDY BY ZIGI • GENERATION • ITASC

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PG LITE • ZIRCONITE • MAD MAD M PTE LTD • JOLIE VICTORIA • MARK & JAMES • Y & Y • TT GROUP • YELLOW BOX • RITMO DANCE • LUCKY TOP • OBLIQUE • MISS ME • DELLI DINO •

AUSSIE DOGS • STAHEEKUM • GO MAX FOOTWEAR • SB• BOUTATTINI • CARRUCCI COLLEZIONI • MBT MASAI USA CORP • RENEEZE • SODA • DULCE HANDBAGS • MADEMOISELLE • BLAKE BROD


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THE VENETIAN + SANDS . LAS VEGAS FEBRUARY 7.8.9 2011 WSASHOW.COM [email protected] / 818.379.9400 [email protected] / 818.464.2352

OPLE - BY SHOE PEOPLE”

“Auri originally launched at WSA back in 2008. We’re

so excited to be back again to debut our all new

high technology meets high fashion womens Fall 11

collection. Looking forward to seeing old friends and

presenting all new products to all new customers.”

ORI ROSENBAUM / AURI FOOTWEAR

“As with the dynamic nature of the footwear industry,

I feel confident that the new WSA show will mirror

an evolution of a national footwear trade show.”

ROBERT MANGIONE / BIRKI’S

“We’re excited about the new team at WSA and the

renewed energy to build back this important trade

show. Aetrex looks forward to attending!”

LARRY SCHWARTZ / AETREX WORLDWIDE

“We look forward to showing our exciting new product

at WSA in February”

JEFFREY CAMPBELL

“For years the WSA Las Vegas show has been a beacon

for all brands, all categories, all countries of origin, and

all types of retailers.... it has been the only venue where

shopping for new and exciting brands in all categories

has been available under one roof...”

JIM ISSLER / H.H. BROWN SHOE CO.

“I’ve always believed that the shoe industry would be

much stronger with one National Show. The new team

David Kahan has put together to revitalize the WSA

Show is both refreshing and exciting. That’s why the

Earth brands have decided to join the new launch of

WSA in February.”

GARY CHAMPION / EARTH BRANDS

ST FOOTWEAR • DELLI ALDO • THOROGOOD • AEROSOLES • JELLY BELLY • HATHORN • TOP MODA • TT GROUP • BEAUTY

OLATILE KIDS • LIL HAZEL’S • LUOCHENG • NIMA ACCESSORIES, INC • BLONDO • SHAPE UPS • TRUMPFIT • BALLISTIC

S • EXQUISITE • ZOTA • SMAC • BIRKI'S • MODIT LADY • THUNDER BOOTS • Z.D. NOVA INTERNATIONAL, LLC • CARESSA

E SHOES • VOLATILE GIRL • WHITING & DAVIS • FEGROW INNOVATIVE PRODUCTS INC • CONSOLIDATED SHOE CO • MURANO

TABLE BY BLONDO • CAPELLI NEW YORK KIDS • SUPERSTAR INT'L • FIRST COMFORT STEP UP INTERNATIONAL • BIRKI’SSTYLE INC • OBLIQUE • LAURA ASHLEY • POUR LA VICTOIRE • SPRINGLAND FOOTWEAR INC • JOHN DEERE BOOTS

OES • GIOVONA JOLIE • JOSMO SHOES • JELLY BEANS • FOOTTHRILLS • GRAMERCY • THE ORIGINAL MUCK BOOT COMPANY

SAFETY JOGGER • DOCKERS • N.Y.L.A. SHOES INC • ELEGANT COLLECTION • COLUMBIA RUBBER BOOTS & WADERS

RNATIONAL • SMART KIDS • ZIRCONITE • TECS • ZERO EXPOSUR • RASOLLI FOOTWEAR • F-SCAN • WANDERLUST • CAUOO

ESTERN CHIEF KIDS • RENEEZE.COM • SB • YALEET INC • COKE COLA • KISS ME • EARTHIES • BRANDED ATHLETIC

NAL • RUGGED BY MASTERS • DASA BRANDS LLC • STAHEEKUM • STUDIO 56 FOOTWEAR • CHINA FOREIGN TRADE • ELLA

Y NINETEEN LLC • KARYN’S COLLECTION • ROCKPORT • CONTESA • INFLUENCE • MASTERS FOOTWEAR INC • FUEL

NER SHOE CO • BOUTATTINI • L & C • VALENTI FRANCO • TREE IMPORT EXPORT CORP • NEWAY • MARTINO FROM CANADA

NC • LIL HAZEL’S • FIVE STAR BOOT • 7 COLOR TRADING INC • PAPILLIO • STAGELIGHT • BLITZ • MEZLAN • SKECHERSATIONAL • JALDA HANDBAGS • DELLI ALDO • FIBRE ARTS DESIGN STUDIO • LEOPARD • ASHLEY M • CHOOKA • KISSES

A CORP DBA MAKER’S SHOES • THE FLEXX • MIXX SHUZ • TITAN INDUSTRIES INC • MACHI • MATISSE FOOTWEAR

ENNETH COLE • ALLROUNDER BY MEPHISTO • CIEC OVERSEAS EXHIBITION CO. LTD • EASYUSA • STELLA • KELSI DAGGER

BUCCI • CELESTE • SWEET BEAUTY • TOTES • X2B • LASONIA KIDS • ENVY FOOTWEAR • BEYOND • AQUATECS • XLR8

• LENA LUISA • RYA • J.C. DOSSIER • TANA • BOLARO • LUNA CONFIES • MASCOTTE • SUP TRADING • EASY STREET • SEI

NLTD BY MARC ECKO • ORTHAHEEL • ROCKIN FOOTWEAR LLC • SHOE REPUBLIC L.A. INC • JOHN DEERE BOOTS• ORLY • HELLE COMFORT • BRECKELLE’S • BEBE • PALOS VERDES FOOTWEAR - VOLATILE • C & A CO • PRESTO-SCAN

WEAR • VYBE FOOTWEAR • MALENA COLLECTION • DAMITA K • CARRUCCI BY JC STUDIO • L.A. LUO CHENG, INC • TRUMPFIT

GS, LLC • DUREA OF HOLLAND • UNSENSORED • SPORTO • LINK • PEPPER GATE FOOTWEAR INC • LA ROSA • GRENADE

EF FOOTWEAR • H.H. BROWN • FEGROW INNOVATIVE PRODUCTS INC • SPOT FOOTWEAR • FRANCO VANUCCI • SELINA

ATRA • FOREVER LINK INT’L. INC • BLUE SUEDE SHOES • TEANA • ESSEX FOOTWEAR GROUP LLC • KORK-EASE • SMARTTY

EVERGREEN GROUP USA • VOLATILE • AETREX WORLDWIDE • ROCUS • ZIRCONMANIA • TWIN TIGER FOOTWEAR • MISS 88

OTWEAR • ENCANTO • TENEVIS FOOTWEAR • EASY STREET • KLIX • EVE • FOR BARE FEET, INC • SONALI • DINGO

• JAMBU • SHULLY’S KISS • SANDY’S WHOLESALE SHOE DIV • COLUMBIA RUBBER BOOTS & WADERS • MCRAE INDUSTRIAL

• LADIA • MARICHI MANI • PINEAPPLE • XEYES • SANO BY MEPHISTO • SHOE AHOLIC • DR. ANDREW WEIL FOOTWEAR

TWEAR INC • RCK BELLA • CITY SNAPPERS • MARK & JAMES • RIEKER SHOE CORP • BESTFIT INTERNATIONAL INC

WESTERN CHIEF KIDS • FRISKY • C&E • TAIMA INTERNATIONAL INC. • AURI FOOTWEAR • 5TH AVENUE BY EASY STREET

LUXE • JEFFREY CAMPBELL • MICHAEL ANTONIO • ELIS LLC • INVERSIONES TEXTILES PSG S.A.C. • COCLICOIZZLEEZ BY ZIGI • MONA MIA SHOES • YOKI SHOES • ALBERTO FELLINI • STUDIO FLEXX • ISTEP • WHITING & DAVIS • TECS

NC • TOP MODA • MICHAEL ANTONIO FOOTWEAR GROUP • SLIPPERS INTERNATIONAL • LALLA • THIELE TANNING COMPANY

ASCA FOOTWEAR BY C.O. LYNCH ENTERPRISES • AETREX WORLDWIDE • CAPELLI NEW YORK • ARIDER • BOLARO

SINGULAR INTERNATIONAL LTD • ANN KRISTAL • HATHORN • TEKSCAN INC • SCII • SOFFT • VANLLY SHOES • YALEET INC

NC • RAGAZZI VEGAN • SB • FOREVER 4U • MULTIWEAR CORP • VANYOR S.A. • SUFEY, LLC • KOOLABURRA • ZOLES

• GOLD EASY INTERNATIONAL CO. LTD • ELEGANT COLLECTION • KIMERA INTERNATIONAL INC • ELEGANT FOOTWEAR INC

HER • MAD MAD M PTE LTD • JOLIE VICTORIA • Y & Y • TT GROUP • YELLOW BOX • RITMO DANCE • LUCKY TOP • OBLIQUE

M • GO MAX FOOTWEAR • MEPHISTO • WORK ZONE • BOUTATTINI • CARRUCCI COLLEZIONI • MBT MASAI USA CORP

ECTIONS • ELVIS PRESLEY • F-SCAN • T&L • THE ORIGINAL MUCK BOOT COMPANY • LUISA D’ORIO • ROCSOC • DAMIANI’S

E • CCSI- COMPREHENSIVE COMPUTER SYSTEMS INC • MISS SANDY • KIWI SELECT • PACIFIC SHOE CORPORATION • ISTEP

SENCE COLLECTION • MISS TRENDY • SAFETY JOGGER • KOALABI AUSTRALIA • AGAPE • RIPLAY • AURI FOOTWEARH LEI FOOTWEAR USA CORP • ALBERTO FELLINI • LEVI’S FOOTWEAR• HATHORN • BIGWILL • BAREFOOT FREEDOM

OTWEAR • BERRIES BY AETREX • LILLY L • HEREVER • CAVORT INT’L INC • TRUE RELIGION FOOTWEAR • ZIGINY • MAKER’S

SEF SEIBEL • CLIMATE X • LUCITA • LOVELY BAG INC • SWEET SEVENTEEN • ED HARDY SHOES • RUGGED BY MASTERS

ACTURERS ASSN • CADAMI • FERRERA COUTURE • SWEET • HI TEC TRAIL RUNNING • SOFFT • WHITES PAC’S • LALLA

KS • KIWI • KING WINDSOR • JOHNNY POPPERS • PIERRE DUMAS • FUDA SHOES INC • DASA BRANDS LLC • LAURA ASHLEY

CORP • JOSEPH ALLEN • NOMAD FOOTWEAR • BELLA VITA • COLEMAN • GOLDEN ISLAND CORP • THOROGOOD • 1999 BY ZIGI

TS • BALLISTIC • BIOTREK • GEE WAWA • KARAMEL CORN • NICKI MADISON • DONNA SHARP • LALLA LEW • PUOCO

.D. NOVA INTERNATIONAL, LLC • FLY FLOT • TECS • ZOLES • HUIYUAN INTERNATIONAL COMMERCE & EXHIBITION CO LTD

MER RIO CORP • MAGNIFIQUE HANDBAG • LILIANA • MEZLAN • MICHAEL ANTONIO • AUCLAIR & MARTINEAU • DUREA

• HENRY FERRERA FOOTWEAR • GRIZZLEEZ BY ZIGI • MONA MIA SHOES • YOKI SHOES • STUDIO FLEXX • VOLATILE GIRL

SHOE CO • TOP MODA • MICHAEL ANTONIO FOOTWEAR GROUP • SLIPPERS INTERNATIONAL • APPEAL • SAS SHOESITASCA FOOTWEAR BY C.O. LYNCH ENTERPRISES • CAPELLI NEW YORK • ARIDER • CREATE EARTH CO. LTD • GRAMERCY

N KRISTAL • TEKSCAN INC • SCII • VANLLY SHOES • COCO JUMBO • EARTH, INC • PINK DUCHESS • MONA MIA COLLEZIONE

• SUFEY, LLC • M. LEONARD INTERNATIONAL - GIESSWEIN • RIDE TECS • PALOVIO • DEAD SEA TREASURES • EVERGREEN

• FOOT MAGIC BY EASY STREET • INFLUENCE • FASHION BAY INC • WRANGLER • BRIGHT WAY INTERNATIONAL CORP

DINO • PETALIA • CHLOE BOUTIN • BAY SHOES • FAHRENHEIT • UGGLEBO CLASSIC • SMAC • ITALIC • SUNVILLE • JANICE

BRODY • TRUE RELIGION FOOTWEAR • JOY FOOTWEAR INTERNATIONAL • FOOTTHRILLS • LITTLE ANGEL • APEX


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Pretty Furry

ThingsSoft and stylish,

luxe fur details adorn Fall ’11 boots.

40

FOOTWEAR PLUS ™ (ISSN#1054-898X) Vol. 22issue #1 The fashion magazine of the footwear industry is published monthly (except for bimonthly April/May and October/November editions) by 9Threads, 8 West 38th Street, Suite 201, New York, NY, 10018-0150. The publishers of this magazine do not accept responsibility for statements made by their advertisers in business competition. Periodicals postage is paid in New York, NY, and additional mailing offices. Subscription price for one year: $48.00 in the U.S. Rates oustide the U.S. are available upon request. Single copy price: $10.00. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to FOOTWEAR PLUS, P.O. Box 8548, Lowell, MA 01853-8548. Publisher not responsible for unsolicited articles or photos. Any photographs, artwork, manuscripts, editorial samples or merchandise sent for editorial consideration are sent at the sole risk of the sender. 9Threads will assume no responsibility for loss or damage. No portion of this issue may be reproduced without the written permission of the publisher. ©2011 by 9Threads. Printed in the United States.

Retail giants are boosting business

should smaller sellers follow suit? By Audrey Goodson

16 Mobile Mentality

CEO Rob Moehring shares his secret to weathering the rough economy: a deluge in sales at his popular Chooka and Western Chief rain boots brands. By Greg Dutter

18 Q&A: Washington Shoe Company

24 Trend SpottingNext season’s boot trends offer an eclectic mix, including bold red, classic plaid, soft shearling, cozy knits and a barrage of buckles. By Angela Velasquez

On the cover: Yellow Box bootie; Billy Reid army coat; Malene Birger shirt; vintage sweater, hat and earmuffs. Photography by Cleo Sullivan at Ray Brown. Model: Sacha Blue at IMG.

The latest crop of cozy winter boots, spicey trail runners and versatile hikers presents a bounty of style options suitable for streets and trails. By Meagan Walker

50 Inside the Outdoors

Steel tones lend a sharp look to men’s boots. By Angela Velasquez

38 Heavy Metal

Caroline DiacoPublisher

Greg DutterEditorial Director

Nancy CampbellCreative Director

EDITORIALAngela VelasquezAudrey GoodsonMeagan Walker Associate EditorsMelissa D’AgneseEditorial Intern

CREATIVETrevett McCandliss Executive Art Director Phong Q. NguyenBrad IstnickLenny VellaArt Directors

CONTRIBUTORSMichel OnofrioStyle Director Kathy Passero Editor at LargeJamie Wetherbe West Coast Editor

ADVERTISINGJennifer CraigAdvertising DirectorRita Polidori O’BrienVP Business DevelopmentDavid SutulaVP TechnologyLeslie SutulaVP Account ServicesErwin Pearl Special Accounts Laurie GuptillProduction Manager

ADMINISTRATIONAlexandra MarinacciOperations ManagerMelanie PrescottCirculation Manager Julie GibsonWebmasterTheodore HoffmanSpecial Projects Director

CONTACT INFOSales/Editorial Offices8 West 38th Street, Ste. 201New York, NY 10018 Tel: (646) 278-1550Fax: (646) [email protected] Office21 Highland Circle Needham, MA 02494Tel: (800) 964-5150Fax: (781) [email protected]

CORPORATE 9Threads26202 Detroit Road, #300 Westlake, OH 44145Tel: (440) 871-1300Xen Zapis, ChairmanLee Zapis, PresidentRich Bongorno, CFO

8 Contributors

10 Publisher’s Letter

12 Editor’s Note

14 This Just In

34 What’s Selling

35 Scene & Heard

36 In the Details

61 Street

62 Shoe Salon

63 Kids

64 Made You Look Ara fur-lined hiker.

Boot with Mongolian sheep hair by Ugg Australia.

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with smartphone applications. But


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c o n t r i b u t o r sinside the creative mind m

CLEO SULLIVAN, PHOTOGRAPHER

Sullivan completed her second tour of photographic duty for Footwear Plus with this month’s fashion story, “Pretty Furry Things” (p. 40). Her work first appeared in our August 2010 issue and we couldn’t wait to enlist her creative services once again. An incredible eye for clarity and fine detail, Sullivan was the ideal choice to zoom in and capture the variety of fine furs in our Fall ’11 boot preview. Sullivan’s award-winning work has also appeared in Vogue, Elle, W, The

New York Times, Blackbook, Newsweek, New York, Condé Nast Traveler and Entertainment Weekly. Other clients include Givenchy, Nordstrom, Sephora, Vera Wang, Judith Leiber, Bergdorf Goodman, Neiman Marcus, Chanel, Barneys, Bloomingdale’s and Saks Fifth Avenue.

TAMAH K, MAKEUP ARTIST

New York native Tamah studied acting at the legendary High School for the Performing Arts. Always interested in fashion and beauty, it was as an actress that she was first exposed to professional makeup. She fell in love with the profession, first learning her craft from top artists Val Garland and Lisa Butler. Tamah approaches her work “skin first” and

maintains her superb and tasteful aesthetic with the eye of a perfec-tionist. Her unique attitude brings a necessary sense of whimsy to this month’s “Pretty Furry Things” story. Tamah has also done makeup for many top photographers, designers and celebrities.

MICHELE ONOFRIO, FASHION STYLIST

A frequent contributor to Footwear Plus, New York-based stylist and new mom Onofrio was once again a spot-on match-maker for the footwear and frocks fea-tured in our “Pretty Furry Things” story. Onofrio’s inspirational yet wearable styling helps tame the somewhat wild nature of these incredible boots. Onofrio’s editorial work has also appeared in Blackbook, Zoo

and A4. She has also styled for Rolex, A.B.S., Joan & David, W Hotels and the footwear brands Born and Yellow Box.

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Spot On!Like the leopard – and all that it inspires – we’re not changing our spots.

The Atlanta Shoe Market is now America’s largest seasonal display of shoe styles. We’re still the most productive, convenient and affordable show.

February 19-21 2011

Cobb Galleria Centre | Renaissance Waverly Hotelatlantashoemarket.com | 706.923.0580 | February 19-21 2011


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RINGING IN THE New Year is a universal celebration. It’s time to refl ect, embrace the good, release the bad, look ahead and, as al-ways, resolve to try and do better.

There are endless possibilities with a fresh start. Personally, I have a magnifi ed sense of refl ection the moment the Waterford crystal ball begins its slow descent in Times Square: January 1 also happens to be my birthday. But

it’s always followed by a double dose—or shot, considering the hol-iday’s traditions—of happiness thanks to “Happy New Year! Happy Birthday!” well wishes and kisses from family and friends. No mat-ter how old I get, I never tire of the world “celebrating” my birthday, too, or the fact that it’s perfectly normal for the phone to ring into the wee hours of the night with only good news.

As for our industry, the celebration seemed to have kicked off a month early. The mood at the FFANY show in New York was decid-edly upbeat. The renewed sense of energy from exhibitors and retailers in attendance was quite refreshing—especially when compared to the previous two dark December shows and pretty much every other show that I had attended in between. Sadly, I was beginning to accept the tradeshow doldrums as part of the “new normal.”

Thankfully, the spell appears to have been broken. The smiles, enthusiasm and confi dence I witnessed amid the hotel rooms, ball-rooms and showrooms were contagious. It reminded me once again why I’ve enjoyed making the shoe business a career. It’s that relent-less drive to offer something new and exciting—and having it be well-received by buyers—that I love. The fruits of that tireless effort has been verifi ed by strong sales despite a still-cautious consumer mentality. A number of pundits say shoes have been helping lead many retailers out of the recession. In addition to sheer talent, hard work and perseverance are fi nally paying off. Here’s to a new era of long-term growth.

This month also brings a new start for 9Threads, the parent com-pany of Footwear Plus. We’ll be moving into new digs in downtown Manhattan’s Cooper Square. It’s double the space to house our ex-panding staff. Our new team is uniquely poised with its extensive footwear industry expertise coupled with state-of-the-art digital marketing services capabilities to address wholesale and retail con-tent marketing, branding, Web development, custom publishing and social media strategy needs. I invite you to visit www.9Threads.com to learn more about what we offer.

We are, in essence, a new company in new offi ces—offering many new capabilities to create new opportunities for the industry we so proudly serve. Happy NEW year to all!

Double Happiness

publisher’s note7t h e n e w g o o d n e w s

Caroline Diaco, Publisher

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THESE BOOTS WERE

MADE FOR WALKING

Clog, fl at, heeled, dress, casual, cold or rain… All our boots are designed with Dansko’s

legendary comfort and support features to keep sales moving like no other boots.

Just don’t wait too long to order. These boots will be walking right out the door.

Dansko is a registered trademark of Dansko, LLC. © 2010 Dansko, LLC.


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WHEN I PICKED up a copy of “Life,” the new autobiography of legendary Rolling Stones guitar-ist Keith Richards, my initial curiosity was that of a voyeur looking in on a debauched life of sex, drugs and rock ’n’ roll. “Booze and pills and powders,” he wails in one of the group’s classic songs, while go-ing into extensive detail about those moderation-defying aspects of his life. Richards has also amassed a distinct fashion catalog over the

years, including his unique interpretations on hippie, Mod and swash-buckler. You might say Richards is a “torn and frayed” cultural icon—one likely reason the millionaire vagabond was the ideal spokesmodel for a recent Louis Vuitton luggage campaign.

Fashion and excess aside, Richards’ formative years as a dirt-poor kid growing up in a bombed-out, post-WWII landscape was truly a blues life. No wonder there was a primal connection when Richards and his bandmates fi rst discovered that genre of music and, soon after, were packing concert halls with fans eager to hear them play it; it spoke to the era’s downtrodden masses. So it’s no surprise that England would embrace the following Mod era and its kaleidoscope of colors, wild fashion and personal freedom, as if

the preceding decades of austerity and bleakness fueled a pent-up demand for a brighter alternative. People wanted to let their hair down—literally and fi guratively.

Which got me thinking about current fashion trends: A recessionary back-drop ushered in an era of classic, safe silhouettes in a muted palette. Versatility, utilitarian and vintage were key descriptive terms in collections across the board. The popularity of classic work boots, for example, addressed the con-sumer’s desire for durability as well as aesthetic austerity. The party was over, basically. In addition, conservative oxfords—the anti-stiletto—came on strong in women’s and, for next fall, an equally prim kitten heel trend aims to address the ongoing demand for day-to-night versatility. Even the rain boots craze has seen a more sophisticated bent toward classic equestrian styling. The recent FFANY show in New York proved designers’ predictions: that Americans are not looking to let their hair down just yet.

Fair enough. We’re not out of the woods, recovery-wise, by any means. Nevertheless, I can’t help but get excited by the prospects of another pent-up demand: Why should this downturn be unlike previous ones that served as the catalyst for creative rejuvenation—be it new forms of art, music or fashion? Something good has got to come out of these economic blues, and when it does, I fully expect it to strike a powerful chord with people the world over. I bet Keith Richards would agree.

Shine a Light

Greg Dutter, Editorial Director

e d i t o r’ s n o t e7fashion in exile

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BY CHELSEA PARIS / MA BY MICHAEL ANTONIO / MADDEN GIRL / MAKERS / MANAS / MANITOBAH MUKLUKS - MADE IN CANADA / MARC BY MARC JACOBS / MARC JOSEPH NEW YORK / MARCHEZ VOUS YS / MARCO FABRINNI / MARIA MARE / MARIANA BY GOLC / MARINELLI / MARK & JAMES / MARK LEMP / MARTINA & PETER H. / MARTINEZ VALERO / MARTINO / MATIKO / MATISSE / MATT BERNSON / MAXSTUDIO.COM / MBT / MCKAE INDUSTRIAL / ME TOO / MEA SHADOW / MEDICI / MEL / MENBUR / MEPHISTO / MERE / MERRELL / MESSECA / MEZCALERO / MIA / MIA 2 / MIA AMORE / MIA GIRL / MIA KIDS / MIA LIMITED EDITION / MICHAEL ANTONIO / MICHAEL ANTONIO STUDIO / MICHAEL KORS KIDS / MICHAEL / MICHAEL KORS / MIISTA / MINI MIA / MINNETONKA MOCCASIN / MINX ME / MISBEHAVE / MISS L FIRE / MISS ROBERTSON / MISSONI / MIUCHA / MIXX SHUZ / MIZ MOOZ / MNTG / MOBILS ERGONOMIC BY MEPHISTO / MODA SPANA / MODERN VINTAGE / MODZORI / MOJO MOXY / MOOTSIES TOOTSIES KIDS / MORENATOM / MORGAN & MILO / MOSCHINO / MOUNTAIN GEAR / MOUNTREK / MUK LUKS / MUKS MUKLUK BOOTS / MUNRO AMERICAN / N.Y.L.A / NANCY LI / NAOT / DEAD SEA TREASURES / NARA SHOES / NATURALIZER / NATURINO / NAUGHTY MONKEY / NAUTICA / NAUTICA KIDS / NAVID O NADIA / NAYA / NEIL M / NEOSENS / NEVADOS / NEW ROCK / NICKELS / NINA / NINA KIDS / NINE WEST / NINE WEST KIDS / NOMAD / NOT RATED / NU BORN / NUNN BUSH / NYC BY ZIGI /OH! / HEALTHY HEELS / OILILY / OLD GRINGO / OLIVIA ROSE TAL / OOMPHIES BY LAMO / OPEN YOUR EYES / ORIGINAL MUCK BOOT / ORTHAHEEL / OSCA / OSH KOSH / OTBT / OUTLAND / OZONE DESIGN / PA BY PILAR ABRIL / PACO GIL / PACO MENA / PAJAR / PALLADIUM / PAPILLIO / PARIS BLUES / PARIS HILTON / PAS DE ROUGE / PASTRY KIDS / PASTRY POP STARS / PATAUGAS / PATRICIA GREEN / PAUL MAYER / PAZZO / PEDRX BY PROPET / PELLE MODA / PENNY LOVES KENNY / PERFECTION BY JUMPING JACKS / PERLINA LUXURY COMFORT / PETALIA KIDS / PHILIP SIMON / PICCADILLY CLOUD 9 / PIKOLINOS / PILAR ABRIL / PLENTY BY TRACY REESE / POLO RALPH LAUREN KIDS / PONS QUINTANA / PORTLANDIA / POUR LA VICTOIRE / PREVATA MADE IN ITALY / PRIMIGI / PRIMP & PROPER BY AILY V / PRIVO / PROMISE / PROPET / PROPHECY / PURA LOPEZ / PW MINOR / QUEEN GRACE / QUIKSILVER / QUPID / QUPID LUXE / R2 / RACHEL RADAMES / RADAR BY SHOEMAX / RALPH LAUREN LAYETTE / RAMARIM / RAMON TENZA / RAS / REBELS RE-MIX CLASSIC VINTAGE / RENZO FONTANELLI / REPORT / REPORT SIGNATURE / RESOLVE BY ROBERT WAYNE / RESTRICTED / RG BARRY / RIDER / RIEKER / RJ GIRL / ROBEEZ / ROBERT CAMERON / ROBERT WAYNE COLLECTION / ROBERT ZUR / ROCAWEAR / ROCK & CANDY BY ZIGI / ROCK & REPUBLIC / ROCSOC / ROMIKA / ROPER / ROS HOMMERSON / ROS HOMMERSON RED COLLECTION / ROUGH JUSTICE / ROWEN / ROXY / RW BY ROBERT WAYNE / RYKA / RYN / RYZ / SACHA LONDON / SACHA TOO / SACHELLE / SAFA / SALPY / SAM & LIBBY / SAM & LIBBY KIDS / SAM EDELMAN / SANDALISTAS / SANITA CLOGS / SANO BY MEPHISTO / SANZIA / SAUCONY KIDS / SCHOOL ISSUE / SCHUTZ / SCOTT DAVID / SEE BY CHLOE / SERGIO ZELCER / SESTO MEUCCI / SHABOOM / SHELLYS LONDON / SIMPLE / SIXTYSEVEN / SKEMO SHOES & BAGS / SLIPPEROOZ / SLIVER LININGS / SMARTDOGS / SNIPE / SOFF / SOFT ONES / SOFT STYLE / SOFTINOS / SOFTWALK / SOMETHING BLEU / SONATA / SOREL / SOULS4SOLES / SOUTHPOLE / SPANISH LEATHER COLLECTION / SPERRY KIDS / SPLASH / SPORTO / STACY ADAMS / STAHEEKUM / STETSON / STEVE MADDEN / STEVEN BY STEVE MADDEN / STEVIES / STORM BY COUGAR / STREETZIE’S HIGH HEEL BUNNY SLIPPERS / STRIDE RITE / STRUTT COUTURE / STUART WEITZMAN / STUART WEITZMAN KIDS / SUGAR KIDS / SUMMERJASMINES / SUN LUKS / SWEDISH HASBEENS / TALLULAH BLU / TAOS / TARYN ROSE / TATAMI BY BIRKENSTOCK / TATE / TAXI / TECS / TED BAKER / TED BAKER / TENEVIS / TERRA PLANA / TERRY DE HAVILLAND / TEVA / THE FLEXX / THE HEALTHY BACK BAG / THE MIX / THIERRY RABOTIN / THINK! / THOROGOOD / TIGANELLO / TIMBERLAND / TIRRENIA / TKEES / TOKE / TOMMY HILFIGER / TOPSIES / TOSCANELLA / TRACE / TREADEASY / TROPICAL CHARMS / TROTTERS / TRUE RELIGION / TSUBO / UES / UNIONBAY / UNITED NUDE / UNLEASHED BY ROCKET DOG / UNLISTED, A / KENNETH COLE PRODUCTION / UNRESTRICTED / UNZE COUTURE / UNZE LONDON / URBAN OXIDE / VALDINI / VANELI / VANELI SPORT / VEGETARIAN SHOES / VEGGIES / VELVET ANGELS / VENETO NY / VENINI KIDS / VERA WANG LAVENDER / VERDI / VERLAIN / VERONIQUE BRANQUINHO / VIA SPIGA / VIA SPIGA MEN’S / VIGOSS / VINCE CAMUTO / VINTAGE SHOE CO. / VIOLET TASH / VIVOBAREFOOT / VOILE BLACHE / WALDLAUFER / WALKING CRADLES / WALKMASTER / WALK-OVER / WEDGE WELLY USA / WESTERN CHIEF / WHITLEY V DESIGNS / WOLFF SHOE COMPANY / WOLKY / WONDERS / WOOLRICH / WORK ONE / XOXO / YIN / ZALO / ZANDRA RHODES / ZEN / ZIERA / ZIGGIES / ZIGI GIRL / ZIGI HANDBAGS / ZIGI NY / ZIGI NY BLACK LABEL / ZIPZ / ZITAMARIA / ZODIAC USA / ZOE KRATZMANN / “Z” BY SERGIO ZELCER / 1999 BY ZIGI / 5TH AVE. BY EASY STREET / 7 FOR ALL MANKIND / 80%20 / A. MARINELLI / ACCESSOIRE / ACORN / ADRIENNE VITTADINI / ADTEC / AETREX / AGAPE / AHNU / AILY V / AILY V STUDIO / AK ANNE KLEIN / ALEGRIA / ALIMA / ALL BLACK / ALLROUNDER BY MEPHISTO / AMALFI BY RANGONI / AMERIBAG / AMERIBAG BY DESIGN / AMIMOC / AND 1 / AND 1 KIDS / ANDIAMO / ANDRE ASSOUS / ANGELES / ANNA CAPRI / ANTELOPE / ANTIA / ANYI LU / APEPAZZA / APRES BY LAMO / AQUATALIA BY MARVIN K. / AQUATECS / ARCHE / ARCOPEDICO / ARDIENTE / ARIAT / ART / ARTIFICIAL INTELLIGENCE / ARTURO CHIANG / ASH / ATHENA ALEXANDER / ATLANTA MOCASSIN / ATTILIO GIUSTI LEOMBRUNI / ATTITUDES / AUDLEY / AURI / AUSIIE BOOTS AUSTRALIA / AUSIIE COUTURE AUSTRALIA / AUSTRALIA / LUXE COLLECTIVE / AVANCE / AVIA / AVIA KIDS / B BRIAN ATWOOD / B. MAKOWSKY / BABY PHAT / BACIO 61 / BADGLEY MISCHKA / BALLETO BY JUMPING JACKS / BANDALS / BANDOLINO / BAREFOOT / BAREFOOT FREEDOM / BASS / BCBG MAXAZRIA / BCBGENERATION / BE COMFORTABLE / BEACH FEET / BEACHERS / BEARPAW / BEAUTIFEEL / BEBE / BELLA VITA / BELLE BY SIGERSON MORRISON / BELLINI / BERKEMANN / BERNARDO / BERNIE MEV / BERRIES BY AETREX / BETSEY JOHNSON / BETTYE MULLER / BEVERLY FELDMAN / BIG BUDDHA / BIO NATUR / BIRKENSTOCK / BIRKI’S / BIVIEL / BLACKSTONE / BLAKE BRODY / BLAKE LEE / BLOCH / BLONDO / BLOWFISH / BLOWFISH KIDS / BLUNDSTONE / BOC KIDS / BODYWORKS / BOGS / BOOT HUGS BY BANDALS / BORN / BORN KIDS / BOS & CO. / BOSS BLACK / BOSS ORANGE / BOSTONIAN / BOURNE / BRACCIANO COLEZIONE / BRADOR / BRASS BOOT / BRONX / BUSSOLA / BUSSOLA - KMS / BUSSOLA - WALK YOUR WAY / BUSSOLA HERITAGE / BUSSOLA RAINBOW / BUTTER / BUTTERFLY TWISTS / CADILLAC / CAFEINA / CALLEEN CORDERO / CALLISTO OF CALIFORNIA / CALVIN KLEIN / CALVIN KLEIN COLLECTION / CAMPER / CAPELTA / CARESSA / CARLA D BY DEZARIO / CARLOS BY CARLOS SANTANA / CARTERS / CAT / CHAPS / CHARLES BY CHARLES DAVID / CHARLES DAVID / CHARLES JOURDAN / CHARM STEP / CHELSEA CREW / CHELSEA PARIS / CHILIS / CHIO / CHOCOLAT BLU / CHOOKA / CHOOZE / CIAO BELLA / CITE / CITY SNAPPERS / CK JEANS / CLARKS / CLAUDIA CIUTI / COCCINELLE / COCONUTS / COLE HAAN / COLE HAAN KIDS / CONTESSA / COOLWAY / CORDANI / CORSO COMO / COSMO / COUGAR / CREVO / CRI DE COEUR / CRISTOFOLI BY AILY V / CROCS / CYDWOQ / CYNTHIA VINCENT / D.A.O. / DAMIANI’S / DAN POST BOOTS / DANA DAVIS / DANIBLACK / DANIEL GREEN / DANSKO / DAV / DAVID TATE / DE BLOSSOM COLLECTION / DEER STAGS / DEER TRACKS / DEMFON INTERNATIONAL / DEREON / DEZARIO / DIANE VON FURSTENBERG / DIBA / DIEGO DI LUCCA / DINGO / DINO BIGIONI / DKNY / DKNY ACTIVE / DKNYC / DOCKERS / DOCKERS BOYS / DOLCE BY MOJO MOXY / DOLLHOUSE / DONALD BY DONALD J PLINER / DONALD J PLINER / DR. ANDREW WEIL INTEGRATIVE / DR. MARTENS / DR. SCHOLL’S / DREAMS BY CALIFORNIA / DREW / DULCE / DUREA / EARTH / EARTHIES / EASTLAND / EASTLAND KIDS / EASY SPIRIT / EASY STREET / ECCO / ED HARDY / EDDIE MARC & CO. / EDDIE MARC KIDS / EDDIE / MORAN / EDGIE VEGGIES / EFX INSOLES / EJECT / EL NATURALISTA / ELAINE TURNER / ELITES BY WALKING CRADLES / ELIZABETH & JAMES / ELIZABETH BRADY / EMU AUSTRALIA / ENIGMA / ERIC JAVITS / ESPRIT / ESPRIT KIDS / ESSENCE / ESSKA / ETIENNE AIGNER / EVERYBODY / EXTREME BY EDDIE MARC / FALCATTO / FARYLROBIN / FELIPE STEFANO / FEMINI / FERGIE / FICKLE / FIEBIGER / FINN COMFORT / FITFLOP / FIVE BY RIO FERDINAND / FLEXX / FLEXX STUDIO / FLIPSTERS / FLORSHEIM / FOOT MAGIC / FOOT PETALS FOOTWEAR / FOSSIL / FRANCESCO SACCO / FRANCHESKA / FRANCO SARTO / FRANK WRIGHT / FRED + TOTO / FREEMAN / FREEMAN INTERNATIONAL / FRENCH SHRINER / FRENCH SOLE / FRESCO BY MOJO MOXY / FRYE / FS/NY / G BY GIVANNO / G BY GUESS / GABOR / GEE WAWA / GENFOOT / GENTLE SOULS BY KENNETH COLE / GEOX / GIDIGIO / GIVANNO HIGH CONTEMPORARY / GOSH / GRACE GREG / GRAMERCY / GRASSHOPPERS / GREATER LA / GREEN / GRENADE / GRIZZLEEZ BY ZIGI / GROUNDHOGS / GUESS / GUESS BY MARCIANO / GUESS KIDS / GUNMETAL / GUPPY LOVE / GWYNETH / HAFLINGER / HARAJUKU LOVERS / HARLEY-DAVIDSON / HAVAIANAS / HEALTH GLIDE / HEALTHTEX / HEART N SOUL / HEARTS OF DARKNESS / HELLE COMFORT / HELLFIRE / HEMINGWAY / HI TEC ATHLETIC / HIGH FASHION HANDBAGS / HISPANITAS / HOBO INTERNATIONAL / HOOPOE / HOUSE OF HARLOW 1960 / HS TRASK / HUGO BOSS / HUNTER BOOT / HUSH PUPPIES / HUSH PUPPIES SLIPPERS / I LUV PLANET EARTH / I PROMISE U / ICON / IGI & CO. / IL MORO DI VENEZIA / ILSE JACOBSEN / IMPO / INCA BOOTS / INDIGO / IPANEMA / IRREGULAR CHOICE / ISLAND HAWAII / ISLAND PRO / ISLAND SLIPPER / ISOLA / ITALIAN SHOEMAKERS / ITALINA / IVANKA TRUMP / IZABELLA / IZOD / J. KUO / J. RENEE / J-41 / JACK ROGERS / JAGUAR / JAKKAR / JAMBU / JARMAN / JEAN MICHEL CAZABAT / JEEP KIDS / JELLY BEANS / JELLYPOP / JESSICA BENNETT / JESSICA SIMPSON / JIBBITZ / JIL SANDER / JJ SCHOOL BY JUMPING JACKS / JLITVACK / JOAN & DAVID / JOE SANCHEZ / JOE’S / JOHN DEER / JOHN FLUEVOG / JOHN LENNON / JOHNNY POPPER / JOHNSTON & MURPHY / JOIE / JOSEF SEIBEL / JOSEPH ALLEN KIDS / JOSMO KIDS / JSL STUDIO / JUICY COUTURE / JUMPING JACKS / JUMPING JACKS BABY / JUMPING JACKS SPORT / JUNCOUTURE / KAMIK / KARINA OLIVEIRA / KATE SPADE / KATHY VAN ZEELAND / KEDS / KEDS KIDS / KEDS SPORT / KEEN / KELSI DAGGER / KENNETH COLE NY / KENNETH COLE REACTION / KENSIE GIRL / KICKERS / KLOGS USA / KLUB NICO / KOOLABURRA / KORK-EASE / KORS MICHAEL KORS / KRAVINGS BY KLOGS / KS 18 / K-SWISS / KUMFS / L BY MISS L FIRE / L.A.M.B. / L.B. EVANS / LADY COUTURE / LAIDBACK LONDON / LAMO SHEEPSKIN / LAREDO WESTERN BOOTS / LASONIA / LAURA ASHLEY KIDS / LAUREN JONES / LE CHAMEAU / LENA LUISA / LEVI’S / LEXX MODA / LIA BIJOU / LIBBY EDELMAN / LIBERTY BLACK / LIFESTRIDE / LILIANA / LISA FOR DONALD J PLINER / LLOYD / LOINTS / LOLA RAMONA / LOLLIPOP / LONDON FOG / LOQUITA / LUCIANO PADOVAN / LUCKY BRAND / LUICHINY / LUXURY REBEL / M.O. BY CHELSEA PARIS / MA BY MICHAEL ANTONIO / MADDEN GIRL / MAKERS / MANAS / MANITOBAH MUKLUKS - MADE IN CANADA / MARC BY MARC JACOBS / MARC JOSEPH NEW YORK / MARCHEZ VOUS YS / MARCO FABRINNI / MARIA MARE / MARIANA BY GOLC / MARINELLI / MARK & JAMES / MARK LEMP / MARTINA & PETER H. / MARTINEZ VALERO / MARTINO / MATIKO / MATISSE / MATT BERNSON / MAXSTUDIO.COM / MBT / MCKAE INDUSTRIAL / ME TOO / MEA SHADOW / MEDICI / MEL / MENBUR / MEPHISTO / MERE / MERRELL / MESSECA / MEZCALERO / MIA / MIA 2 / MIA AMORE / MIA GIRL / MIA KIDS / MIA LIMITED EDITION / MICHAEL ANTONIO / MICHAEL ANTONIO STUDIO / MICHAEL KORS KIDS / MICHAEL / MICHAEL KORS / MIISTA / MINI MIA / MINNETONKA MOCCASIN / MINX ME / MISBEHAVE / MISS L FIRE / MISS ROBERTSON / MISSONI / MIUCHA / MIXX SHUZ / MIZ MOOZ / MNTG / MOBILS ERGONOMIC BY MEPHISTO / MODA SPANA / MODERN VINTAGE / MODZORI / MOJO MOXY / MOOTSIES TOOTSIES KIDS / MORENATOM / MORGAN & MILO / MOSCHINO / MOUNTAIN GEAR / MOUNTREK / MUK LUKS / MUKS MUKLUK BOOTS / MUNRO AMERICAN / N.Y.L.A / NANCY LI / NAOT / DEAD SEA TREASURES / NARA SHOES / NATURALIZER / NATURINO / NAUGHTY MONKEY / NAUTICA / NAUTICA KIDS / NAVID O NADIA / NAYA / NEIL M / NEOSENS / NEVADOS / NEW ROCK / NICKELS / NINA / NINA KIDS / NINE WEST /

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14 footwearplusmagazine.com • january 2011

THIS JUST IN

Bought high or low, tight or bulky, women strutting about New York are bullish on socks this season. By Dorothy Hong

Kelsey Martin, 18Student at University of Richmond in Virginia. Hometown: Detroit.

Wearing the socks for a fashion statement or cold feet? Both. I always wear socks like this, but today is chilly so there’s an added benefit.

What shoes go best with funky socks? I wear socks with all shoes. I would wear socks with fl ats, heels, boots—anything. I like knee-high socks the most. I’m one of the only people to wear them at Richmond.

Any other benefi ts to wearing socks? They’re comfortable, easy to pack and they make any outfi t look cute. You can dress up or down any outfi t with socks.

Free socks or a free pedicure? Free socks! Pedicures go away in a week; socks are forever.

Shoe Brand? Roots.

Sock Options

FW_01_This_Just_In_01.indd 14 12/22/10 4:07:49 PM

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ILLU

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S P E C I A LR E P O R T

Retail giants are launching smartphone shopping applications as more customers go mobile, but should smaller sellers follow suit? By Audrey Goodson

Mobile Mentality

SMART SHOPPING USED to mean clipping coupons from the Sunday paper, but today’s budget-conscious consumer fi nds discounts at the touch of a button. Thanks to smartphone technology and a slew of new mobile applications, shoppers can scout stores using GPS navigation, scan bar-codes to fi nd the lowest price, create and share wish lists with friends and family and read product reviews and compare similar items. It’s the age of the über-informed buyer.

And the trend is gaining traction at a dizzying pace, leaving manufacturers and retailers scrambling to address the needs—and capture the dollars—of the mobile shopper. In fact, nearly half of all smartphone users say they have already, or soon will, use their phones to shop, according to ABI Research, a technology research fi rm based in New York. During last November’s busy shopping season, smartphone usage jumped by 249 percent over 2009, with 64 percent of smartphone owners using a price comparison app on Black Fri-day, according to Mobclix, a mobile advertising technology fi rm. “With smart-phone sales increasing in popularity, and apps that make your life easier in a fast-paced world, mobile commerce is here to stay,” confi rms John Kalinich, vice president of consumer direct for Ugg Australia, which created shopping applications for Apple and Android devices this year. Downloads of the ap-plications, as well as sales of Ugg products directly from the platforms, have steadily increased every month, Kalinich reports.

Joining Ugg, many manufacturers, department stores and online retailers are jumping on the mobile bandwagon, creating mobile applications to keep their customers hooked. Neiman Marcus, Zappos and Payless Shoe Source all created shopping apps this year, while Finish Line and JCPenney ramped up their mobile efforts by allowing customers to make purchases directly from their apps. “It’s kind of a wild west atmosphere,” says Dave Swartz, president of MEDL Mobile, a mobile marketing technology company based in Irvine, CA, describing the increasingly crowded and complicated mobile landscape. Swartz’s fi rm developed the Mall Maps Deluxe app, a navigation tool that al-lows users to fi nd nearby shops and see the layout of local malls. Yet despite the ever-expanding digital landscape, Swartz notes that “there’s still a lot of room for developing custom application for retailers.”

But just because the opportunity exists doesn’t necessarily mean it’s a solu-tion for every store, says Stephen Cobb, who calls himself a “marketing evan-gelist” for his Philadelphia-based marketing technology company, Monetate, whose clients include QVC, Dick’s Sporting Goods and The Sports Authority. “There’s not a one-size-fi ts all answer to mobile. It’s really going to depend on what your existing channels are—if you’re brick and mortar, catalog, have a few locations around the country or a store in every city.”

So what should retailers consider when deciding on developing an app? “I think the calculation for a retailer varies enormously according to size,” Cobb says. “Not only is it a question of cost, you also have the issue of managing two different platforms. If you have an after-Christmas sale, you’re going to have to put that on your regular website, and then you have to put that in the mobile app as well.” That kind of maintenance might be more than smaller retailers can handle. Not to mention, many smart phone users may have “app fatigue,” Cobb notes. “I’ve got 96 apps on my iPhone, including Amazon and Target. Am I going to put a specialty shoe retailer on there, too?”

That doesn’t mean smaller retailers and manufacturers should stay out of the mobile shopping arena completely, Cobb asserts. It may be better for some shops and manufacturers to concentrate on making their website more “mo-bile-friendly,” since a majority of smartphone shopping still happens on mobile websites, rather than within an application. That’s why Wolverine World Wide decided to launch mobile websites for many of its brands, including Merrell, Hush Puppies, Cushe, Chaco and Sebago, says Jodi Watson, vice president of global e-commerce and consumer insights for Merrell. While Merrell has dis-cussed launching an app, the brand is waiting for more feedback from its cus-tomers before delving into the technology. “I’ve seen a lot of people running to be fi rst and create an app before they’ve seen what the problem is and what the role is,” Watson notes, adding that the focus on Merrell’s mobile shopping site has paid off. “So far, we’ve been really pleased with the results. We’ve seen about 1 percent of our sales happen on the mobile site.”

Aside from launching mobile websites, an increasing number of retailers are fi nding creative ways to boost business by working with existing mobile applications. JC Penney recently joined a growing number of retailers offering location-based coupons, by giving smartphone users discounts up to $50 for “checking-in” with GPS-enabled apps like Foursquare and Facebook. Taking advantage of these apps can also be benefi cial for smaller stores, by helping connect shops with nearby customers—especially since the apps are free. “The chains always have the budget to do certain things, like advertising. The in-

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dependents may offer better product, but they don’t have the budget to put it out there,” notes Brandon Williamson, who created his SoleSearch applica-tion to help give a boost to independent sneaker boutiques. So far, his application has been down-loaded 30,000 times on Apple devices and launched for Android devices last month. “Something like SoleSearch allows for the independent retailer to immediately offer the product [to the consumer],” Williamson notes, since the application links to each retailer’s website.

“The use of a mobile affi liate can be very good,” agrees Cobb, “with the caveat that you’ve got to make sure you handle that traffi c appropriately. If you are on Yelp with a 20-percent-off offer, the click-through has got to reiterate that offer when people land [on your website].” In fact, consistency across online platforms—from applications to websites to email—is key to ensuring shoppers ultimately click the “buy” button, Cobb says. “What we’ve found is that if you’re offering something to someone, they’re always wor-ried that you’re going to bait and switch.”

That’s why Zappos decided to produce their mobile app in-house, says product manager and app design-er Jamie Newberry. “The reality is that we had out-sourced to two different vendors and it wasn’t really working out,” she explains. Newberry knew that the company wanted a very basic app that provided the same design and ease of shopping as the brand’s web-

site. “We wanted people to be able to get in, browse around, fi nd what they’re looking for, buy it and get out. We didn’t want to clutter it with too many gim-micks or bells and whistles.” So far, the streamlined strategy seems to have worked: The 4-star rated app is averaging about 2,000 downloads a day.

As mobile technology takes off, the online and in-store shopping arenas are increasingly merging. Sites like TheFind, which launched a mobile app in November, allow users to compare prices on prod-ucts from both nearby stores and online retailers (a type of technology that both Google and Ebay have recently acquired and are incorporating into their mobile platforms). “The future of shopping lies in a further blurring of the lines between online and of-fl ine,” notes Usher Lieberman, director of corporate communications for TheFind. So will the move to mo-bile make in-store shopping obsolete? Not by a long shot, experts agree. Most industry insiders see mobile applications as a complement rather than a replace-ment to the in-store experience. “We know that many people come to our website to research, and then they buy offl ine at their favorite retailer,” says Watson at Merrell. Lieberman agrees: “As big as online shop-ping is, more than 90 percent of retail transactions still happen inside a physical store location. In creat-ing our app, our motivation was to connect consum-ers’ in-store shopping and online shopping activity, either before or after they visit a store.” •

Know your audience. “You should fi rst under-stand the mobile needs of your consumer,” Ugg’s Kalinich advises. Know your ability. “Next, you will need to deter-mine if your existing technical staff can support the goals of the program,” Kalinich says. If you don’t have the capabilities in-house, “Finding a quality developer is key in making your vision come to life,” says SoleSearch’s Williamson. Aim for simplicity. “The better and easier it is to use the app, the more successful it will be,” Wil-liamson says. Newberry at Zappos agrees: “A lot of apps try to do a lot of things and lose focus.” But keep it fun. “Give them a reason to come back and use the app rather than just popping over to use Safari,” Newberry suggests. Take your time. “Spend time designing and test-ing the designs to ensure the apps satisfy your mobile goals,” Kalinich says. Testing your app can also help prevent bugs, Newberry adds.Make it free. “If your prime goal is to drive up sales, then don’t get wrapped up in trying to make money off of the app to recoup the cost spent on developing,” Williamson notes. “Make it free so that everyone is able to see what your business has to off er.” —A.G.

APP IT UPAre you ready to move into the mobile world and develop a store app? Here are some of the top tips from industry experts:

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TO SAY ROB Moehring is happy when it rains would be an understate-ment of epic proportions. You could say each raindrop acts as a tiny impe-tus for shoppers to purchase a pair of his Chooka or Western Chief rubber rain boots. As the raindrops accumulate into puddles, it only ups the ante. And the fact that rain occurs year-round in all 50 states, it’s easy to see how overcast skies and drizzle would put an ear-to-ear smile on the face of one of the leading rain boot makers.

But it hasn’t just been the utilitarian factor fueling Moehring’s rain boot bonanza for nearly the past decade. (After all, rain boots, or wellies, have been around for more than a century.) It’s more due to the technological advancements introduced about eight years ago, enabling rubber to take on prints and colors. Ever since, Moehring’s design team has been turn-ing boot shafts into canvasses for wild, whimsical and colorful creations. These once-drab staples have been reborn into bold fashion statements. It’s fair to say millions of consumers are also now happy when it rains: It’s a chance for them to make a splash—pun defi nitely intended—with their footwear. What was once lamented as a “bad hair day” has turned into a fashion opportunity—frizzy locks be damned.

“Before, wellies were basic boots people just wore to march around the farm in,” Moehring offers. “Now, they’ve become an important part of a women’s wardrobe.”

Nevertheless, even Moehring was surprised when 2010 sales nearly doubled from 2009, which was up more than 50 percent from the previ-ous year—especially considering the dark clouds of the recession that have hung over the entire footwear market these past two years. “Nobody really saw this year’s growth coming,” he admits. “We planned for a 30- to 40-percent increase, and we were just blown over.” Moehring cites the mid-tier’s embrace of rain boots for fueling the explosive growth. “There are just a ton of people shopping in that tier, and that’s generated a lot of business,” he says, adding that the Kent, WA-based company now operates two public warehouses, while its main warehouse is running three shifts a day. “We’ve had to expand rapidly, and we’ve been fortunate to ramp up the extra ware-housing ability.”

In addition to the masses embracing rain boots, Moehring notes that its Western Chief brand continues to grow exponentially—thanks to a couple of kid-specifi c market perks. First, kids are constantly growing, so there’s more of a need to replenish. Then there’s the “cute” factor that allows West-ern Chief boots (and their matching rain coats and umbrellas) to double as dress-up options and Halloween costumes. Never mind the simple fact that cute is cute—which, Moehring says, plays strongly in both mid and upper

tiers. He notes that Western Chief is an affordable impulse buy in its upscale dealers. “They can sell our brand for less than most of the other merchandise they carry, yet it’s still unique and offers that necessary cachet,” he says.

As for how long the rain boots sales deluge might last, Moehring pre-dicts at least a couple of more seasons before proverbial market consolida-tion sets in, leaving fewer players answering the demand for the long term. It’s not unlike the sheepskin boot craze, he notes. “When that trend was hot, everybody was in the sheepskin business,” he says. “As the category matured, suppliers consolidated to four or fi ve key players. I see the same thing happening in rubber footwear.” Moehring believes the consolidation phase has just begun, although he doesn’t expect it to impact the company’s sales growth. “We believe 2010 was the fi rst big year in the mid-tier mar-ket, and that will continue expanding,” he predicts. “There’s still a lot of room for growth there.” In addition, Moehring says the upper-tier market is evolving into more sophisticated styles that help sustain sales volume. “It’s

O&A Riding the utilitarian rain boots fashion wave, Rob Moehring, CEO of Washington Shoe Company, makers of Chooka and Western Chief, reports that sales nearly doubled in 2010. He forecasts the deluge to continue this year. By Greg Dutter

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all about studs, straps and buckles in that tier, as well as different material treatments that are more subtle,” he notes.

Going forward, Moehring anticipates a cus-tomer for both bold and subtle rain boot styles. The utilitarian factor isn’t going away, and the trickle-down effect from high to lower tiers or-ganically rejuvenates the market. Plus, plenty of women just want to have some fashionable fun. As such, Moehring remains bullish on rain boots for this year and beyond. “This style of footwear is now embraced by the masses,” he says, noting that even former Republican vice presidential candidate Sarah Palin sported a pair of Chookas during an episode of her reality TV series. While Moehring says Palin is a polarizing political fi gure, the fact that she was wearing Chooka’s “Tattoo City” boots while fi shing was an honest and unpaid (be-lieve it or not) product endorsement. “She has a strong fashion following, and wore our boots in a utilitarian manner. So we’ll take it,” he says.

While keeping pace with the rain boot craze, Moehring is also focused on the rest of the Wash-ington Shoe Company portfolio. It includes Staheekum sheepskin slippers—which, Moehring reports, register a steady increase in sales each year, and Eddie Moran men’s work boots. In addition, Wild Du-ces, a women’s leather boot fashion brand, has joined the mix this year. If that’s not enough, Moehring also plans to expand Chooka into leather styles starting in 2012. “We’ll lightly step into the water for spring, and then make a bigger splash by fall,” he says, adding that it has been a frequent request from retailers. “We have a strong consumer following and brand recognition, and many retailers want to preserve Chooka’s space on their shelves year-round.”

First off: Is it raining outside your offi ce right now? Yes. And I’m very happy!

Understood. Still, this run has surpassed even your wildest expectations, right?Yes, but it confi rms what a powerful combina-tion utility and fashion can be. It’s a similar story to the popularity behind Merrell’s Jungle Moc,

Ugg’s sheepskin boot and, possibly, Crocs. The rain boot has found its place in the consumer’s closet because it looks great and fulfi lls a need.

Now that nearly everyone offers a rain boot, how are you keeping your brands distinct? We believe the consumer seeks out quality and

great design. We use high-density rubber, and our upper designs are always fresh and new. Of late, we’ve been translating some classic styles and design elements found in leather boots. One example is the classic riding boot silhou-ette—only ours are made of rubber, which of-fers more utility.

I believe the women who fi rst loved our fun,

bright and funky designs have discovered the true utility of rubber rain boots. Ours are neither heavy nor clunky, and since we’ve made them less farm like and more fashionable, they’re comfortable wearing them often. For example, city women are on their feet a lot, and appreciate the utilitarian aspect of rubber footwear.

Without the fashion element, this cat-egory probably would have never come around again.That’s true: When consumers see some-thing new, it makes them want to buy it more—be it different treatments, ma-terials and/or silhouettes. Otherwise, wellies are a commodity. Chooka never really sold based on solid colors; it’s al-ways been about interesting details. This season, it was straps, buckles and studs, plus the introduction of sophisticated design elements. For example, we did well with lace details and fabric uppers like Irish woolens and plaids. Even our dot patterns have become more subtle. Whereas in our more price-sensitive Western Chief women’s line, big dots and bold colors still sell well. And of course, when it comes to Western Chief kids, it’s all about the ‘cute’ factor and the power of our Thomas the Tank Engine, Hello Kitty and Batman licenses. Fun, whimsi-cal product is more in demand than ever before. Moms don’t want to buy boring boots, and kids increasingly drive pur-chasing decisions.

What’s the status of the rest of the

We introduced our Eddie Moran work boot line last year on the downside of the work cycle, so it has experienced slow growth to date. Nevertheless, we’re satis-fi ed with the response, and expect stron-ger sales as the look cycles back in. It’s a good sign that J.Crew is now carrying Red Wing, as is Nordstrom.

In the meantime, we launched a women’s derivative of Eddie Moran called Wild Duces this year. It’s a fashion

boot line based on manmade materials (retail prices range from $40 to $70) that started out with some motorcycle looks. It’s been a star to date—we’re selling at lots of Western, farm and mid-tier general stores. These kinds of outlets are located all over the country and have a loyal customer base who basically will buy it where they see it: They may be carrying a huge bag of

Any New Year’s resolutions? To create new and exciting ideas in lines that we know work well for us. We want to make the things we’re good at better to differentiate ourselves in the marketplace.

What are you reading right now? “Skinny Bitch,” which is about the vegan diet. The motto of the book is pretty much “if you eat crap, you are crap.” I’m also reading “The Servant” by James Hunter, which is about enhancing the workplace environment for your employees. I’m happy to be reading that book.

Who inspires you most at the moment? Steve Jobs. What Apple is doing to our way of life is just amazing. Specifi c to our business, Robert Greenberg continues to impress me, Vince Camuto’s grasp of product is incredible and I’m amazed by how Angel Martinez has turned a one-trick pony (Ugg) into a lifestyle brand.

If you could hire anyone, who would it be? Steve Jobs or Alan

Mulally, who ran the commer-cial plane division of Boeing and is now doing an amaz-ing job running Ford Motor Company.

What’s your motto? New, fun, inspirational product every day.

Who do you consider to be the world’s most infl uential fi gures in fashion? Michael Kors and Marc Jacobs.

Does a perfect shoe exist? It depends on the mood and the moment, and there are so many of both. That’s what I love about the women’s shoe busi-ness: There are so many oppor-tunities to create product for them, and women are express-ing themselves more and more through their footwear. Before, the shoes had to match the out-fi t, but now, women build their wardrobes around shoes.

How do you defi ne success? Doing what you love, follow-ing your passion, providing solutions for people’s lives and hopefully, making a living doing so.

O F F T H E C U F F


O&A

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O&Adog food, but if they see these boots, they’ll buy them as well. It’s been a pleasant surprise. What started out as a men’s work line has evolved into a strong women’s fashion boot business. How crazy is that? But that’s what this industry is all about: Women always want new shoes!

How is Staheekum performing?Quietly yet steadily, with 15-percent increases year after year. Actually, it’s kind of boring, but I love boring. Today’s lifestyle is all about comfort, and this brand lies on the fringe of that craze. Tons of young people are wearing slippers as part of this “sleep to street” trend: They hop out of bed, shower (or not), tie their hair into a ponytail, slip into sweats and slippers and are good to go.

Despite one of the most diffi cult retail climates in decades, your com-pany is thriving. What’s your secret?First let me say, last year was still very challenging, but we’ve found that people gravitate even more to perceived value as well as the opportunity to add some fun into their lives. A lot of bleakness remains with respect to the overall mood, but there are increasingly a number of people that are revolting against that. One way is to simply express themselves in fun rain boots. Another way is by trying to be comfortable—both physically as well as emotionally. Many people don’t want to try and be a fashion plate; they just want something that works and is comfortable. Our brand portfolio is nicely aligned with those trends.

What has been the biggest change you have seen among your retail partners since the fi nancial collapse?Retailers remain cautious and sensitive to cash fl ow and inventory. They need to be lean and mean, because there’s no place for extra expense today and the tolerance for error no longer exists. Consumers just don’t buy close-outs the way they used to. You can’t get out of unwanted inventory at 10 or 15 percent off with a “rack in the back.” Retailers really have to be spot-on with the right product for their customers.

How was the mood at the FFANY show in New York?Retailers are keenly aware of what works for them, and they are staying loyal to those brands. As a result, more communication is taking place be-tween supplier and retailer than ever before. It’s got to work at the cash register or it doesn’t work for anybody. We spend a lot of time discussing emerging trends and current sales, and we’re watching that on a daily basis to sense an end or beginning of a sales cycle. That communication is critical because, at the end of the day, the consumer drives the bus. And they can turn on a dime.

Is it more diffi cult to succeed today?Yes and no. It used to be more stable: Book your usual orders with the usual brands, and see you next season. Those days are gone, but that’s actually better for a company like ours. This type of landscape rewards brands that are engaged in the market and watch and react to the latest trends.

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The Wigwam Resort, Phoenix – May 3-5, 2011You’re invited to enroll in Footwear U at The 18th Annual USRA MayEvent, May 3-5, 2011. Our “Back-to-School” curriculum will get youback to basics and back to the future of footwear retailing.

Learn how to stay at the top of your class! The May Event is thebiggest footwear pep rally of the year! Three cheers for yourcontinued success!

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Call or email the USRA office forMembership info or a May Eventpackage.Phone: (818) 703-6062

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How have consumers really changed as a result of this mess?Well, Black Friday was huge for Internet retailers—and not just Cyber Monday. It shows that consumers are aggressive; they want the best possi-ble mix at the best price, and we’ll continue to see that. On the other hand, brick-and-mortar retailers that take care of their customers are being re-warded with loyalty. People like to go where they are being taken care of. Men, in particular, will rely on such retailers as their fashion consultant if their wives or girlfriends aren’t in the picture.

Are there any retailers you particularly admire?Nordstrom, because they really listen. They know what their customer wants. And if they run into trouble, they fi x it: They’re the best at turning things around if something is not going well. I also respect major online dealers with how they respond to customer demands.

What’s your outlook for this year in general for the industry?Many are worried about 2011, and the Chinese suppliers are acting a bit paranoid. A lot of factories have raised prices on orders that were already booked, and commodity prices have been going up almost daily. Deliveries will arrive later, so we are responding by planning further ahead.

So price increases are on the way?Yes. The problem, however, is while the consumer is starting to shop again, they have grown accustomed to relatively low prices. Yet rubber costs are up 30 to 40 percent; then throw in the depreciation of the U.S. dollar, plus the possibility of a huge duty increase on rubber in March, and it’s a perfect storm for our business. Will the consumer buy into these price increases? Un-

fortunately, I think we’re in the beginning of an infl ationary cycle and they are going to have to pay up if they want new shoes. The fact is price increases are hitting all shoes coming out of China. And while no one wants to accept higher prices—including suppliers, retailers and defi nitely consumers—it’s inevitable. Nevertheless, a retailer was telling me recently that if they raise their prices, the consumer will likely look elsewhere. Whether they fi nd it for less or not, they’ll still blame the original retailer for raising the price.

Sounds like a vicious cycle.It can seem that way at times. But the fact remains that consumers always embrace new and exciting product. That’s what we continue to work like crazy to achieve, and we’ve got a number of exciting projects in the works that we expect will be well-received. And I actually believe recessions are good for an emerging brand because buyers can’t rely on the old formula. That’s what I love about the junior business—you get an audience with those buyers be-cause that market is always changing. They can’t afford to miss out on the next big thing so they are usually much more receptive. Overall, most people I speak with remain cautiously optimistic; they believe this year will be better.

Where do you see yourself in three years?Doing what I enjoy: creating fresh footwear designs and delivering on them. People often ask, ‘Why don’t you retire?’ What else am I going to do? I love coming into work each day to create new and exciting designs. I also love the fact that everywhere I go, I’m basically involved in the shoe busi-ness—whether it’s watching kids playing on a fi eld or seeing what people walking around a mall are wearing. I’m lucky, because I’m able to do what I love and wouldn’t want to do anything else. •

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Shades of scarlet heat upfor Fall ’11.Photography by Dean Powell

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january 2011 • footwearplusmagazine.com 25

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The enduring pattern crosses paths with fi ne leather.Plaid-ittude

Clockwise from top left: duck boot by Ugg Australia; Wolverine cuffed boot; Timberland lace-up; patchwork boot by Sendra.




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Multi-clasp boots secure a strong footing.Buck The Trend

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Current best-selling brands: Alexander Wang, Fiorentini + Baker, Pedro Garcia, Pons Quintana, Tory Burch, La Canadienne, Frye and our Pumpz brand. Best new brand: We are very excited to be carrying Car Shoe once again starting in spring. Current best-selling boot styles: Rabbit-fur lined boots from Manitobah Muks and weather-proof boots from La Canadienne. For fall, riding boots, over-the-knee boots, ankle boots and combat boots. Any projections for next year’s best-selling boot silhouette? We are just seeing the combat boot trend being introduced and hope to capitalize on it next year by off ering a range of styles. And for next year’s boot style? For early fall, des-sert, sneaker-style and hiker boots—with more mas-culine and outdoor styles becoming more feminine with a wedge or heel.Average spent on boots per customer? About $350.Has it changed since the recession? Our customer is now shopping more carefully, but she still wants the designers she’s been wearing for years. Now she may only buy one or two great pair of shoes per season as opposed to three or four, but she might come back for that third or fourth pair on sale.Does the over-the-knee boot trend still have legs?Our customers still feel comfortable with the over-the-knee boots, but we will be carrying a smaller assortment next year as the trend isn’t for everyone. What’s the biggest challenge facing your busi-ness? Our customer is a “wear now” lady who loves to be trend forward and unique, so we continue to work on providing her with constant newness, exclusivity and excitement in our assortments. Why do you think women love boots? I think boots are many women’s guilty pleasure. Can you really have enough boots?What’s your outlook for 2011? We are very excited for 2011 based on our most recent fourth-quarter business, as well as the assortments throughout all our categories we will be off ering our customers. —Audrey Goodson

Current best-selling brands: For women, Dries Van Noten, Fiorentini + Baker and Sendra. For men, Costume National and John Varvatos. We also carry Florsheim by Duckie Brown, and people love the colors.Current best-selling boot styles: For women, over-the-calf, low-heel, pragmatic boots. Ankle boots are doing well, too. On the men’s side, chukka-style ankle boots. Any projections for next year’s best-selling boot silhouette? I feel like the tall boot situation has been going on for several seasons now, and for us, [we’re now seeing] a boot with a lower height and more ankle cuts. And for next year’s boot style? Straps, buckles and belts. And for women, we’re going to start shifting away from the heavily distressed to a more fi nished look—a little bit less beat-up and weather-worn, and a little more feminine with a heel that might go a little higher.Average spent on boots per customer: Between $400 and $600.Has it changed since the recession? No, people are just buying less. But I would also say more people are trying to reach for a high-quality boot because they know they can wear it longer.Does the over-the-knee trend still have legs?It’s a tough look. If it’s done one way, it be-comes too ‘hoochy,’ and if it’s done another, it becomes too ‘swashbuckly.’ I’m sure we’ll see it next season, but I think the lower boot styles will be the stronger selling point. I’d put my money on ankle versus over-the-knee boots. Best-selling accessories? Socks and Numero 10 and Entermodal handbags.Any surprises this year? When someone who has been buying fl at boots for as long as I remember comes in to buy 4-inch stilettos. I’m hearing more people saying they’ve got their shoe savings now [to spend]. People are still loving their shoes.

Owner Nathan Newell’s eclectic mix of high-quality footwear brands has been so successful, he recently moved into a 2,400-square-foot space more than twice the size of his former spot. Now located in the upscale Pearl neigh-borhood shopping district, Halo lures visitors with its “old Northwest industrial feel,” which in-cludes soaring ceilings, concrete fl oors, exposed brick and old-growth timber beams. Halo’s customers keep coming back for the boutique’s bespoke Entermodal handbags stitched on-site and the shop’s unique array of brands, including Jil Sander, Camilla Skovgaard and Cydwoq.

HALO Portland, OR

Owner Marlys Badzin opened her swanky boutique 11 years ago to give the women in her Midwest location their designer shoe fi x without having to board a plane to either coast. The shop’s wide assortment belies its small size with more than 50 brands of shoes, handbags, jewelry and acces-sories on the shelves, including boots by Cynthia Vincent, Golden Goose and Belle by Sigerson Morrison. Fitting the shop’s warm ambiance is its friendly staff , says Sales Manager Jinny Krogman. “We make our customers feel at home and always go the extra mile to make their experience with Pumpz fun and easy.”

PUMPZ & COMPANYEdina, MN

Sendra

John Varvatos

Pons Quintana

La Canadienne

Fiorentini + Baker


what ’s selling boots

FW_01_Whats_Selling_02.indd 34 12/22/10 1:08:41 PM


S C E N E A N D H E A R D¡+¢

H.H. BROWN SHOE Company recently hosted its sixth annual Footwear Association Charity Event (FACE) in Shanghai, China, uniting industry leaders, dignitaries and celebrities from around the world to benefi t China’s youth and less fortunate.

With the support of donors in the United States, China and across the globe, FACE raised more than $1.4 million to benefi t charities throughout mainland China. Celebrity philanthropists, including acclaimed actor and director, Zhang Guoli, Emmy-winning pro-ducer, host and entrepreneur, Yue-Sai Kan, celebrated singer Johnny Jiang, renowned actress Vivian Wu, master violinist Chai Liang, and popular singer and television personality Tao Jingying were among the luminaries at the FACE press event and check presen-tation ceremony on Nov. 1.

“We are extremely grateful for the generous support of our business partners and colleagues throughout the global footwear industry in making this our most suc-cessful event to date,” says Jim Issler, FACE president and president and CEO of H.H. Brown. “Each year the work of our partner charities reaches more chil-dren than ever before, as we continue to seek out new and innovative ways of enriching young lives.” Issler adds, “We are especially proud that celebrity icons like Yue-Sai Kan have joined in our efforts this year, help-ing spread FACE’s mission throughout China.”

Since its inaugural event in 2005, FACE has raised more than $6 million to benefi t the children of China. Established by H.H. Brown Shoe Company and foot-wear industry partners to provide vital healthcare, nutrition, education and social outreach to those in need, the event’s title sponsors have grown to include full-service footwear supplier BBC International and Chinese footwear retailer Daphne.

Proceeds from this year’s event will support The Harvard School of Public Health’s China Initiative, The Two Ten Footwear Foundation, The Zhongshan Young Volunteers Association, The Soong Ching Ling Foundation, The China Welfare Fund for the Handi-capped and other local charities throughout China.

For more information about FACE or to make a do-nation at any time, please contact John Sweeney, H.H. Brown’s vice president of media services, at (978) 933-4866 or visit www.facefootwear.org.

FACE Raises $1.4 Million for Children’s Charities in China Sixth annual event unites industy leaders, dignitaries and international celebrities.

Left to right: Edwin Keh, FACE board of directors, with Ron Fromm, chairman and CEO of Brown Shoe Company; FACE executive vice president Bob Campbell with Jim Issler, president and CEO of H.H. Brown and president of FACE; Eddie Chen of Chinese retailer Daphne and Issler present Wings of Music’s Chai Liang with a check for $75,000 for his youth music enrichment program.

Left to right: A musician from the Soong Ching Ling Band performed on a traditional Chinese instrument and pianist Liu Wei, who lost his arms in an accident at age 10, delighted the crowd with an incredible performance.

Children throughout China benefit from FACE’s support of art and enrichment programs as well as infant outreach and nutrition programs.

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PHOT

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BRIS

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Distressed leather cap-toe

by Bed-Stu

I N T H E D E T A I L S

Decorative perforated details spiff up classic work

boots for Fall ’11.

BrogueAccents

Sebago wingtip with stacked wood

heel

Georgia Giant cap-toe with oil- and slip-

resistant outsole

Wolverine 1000 Mile Collection

burnished leather wingtip

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HEAVY METALA STORMY COLOR PALETTE RUMBLES INTO MEN’S FASHION.

Sendra

Tsubo

Lucchese

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Walk by Faith

Eastland

Cafeina

Palladium

Sebago


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40

Beach Feet wedge; Billy

Reid cape and hat.

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vintage jacket, pants and belt.

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Wedge by Sorel; Malene Birger

coat; Gilded Age henley; vintage sweater;

stylist’s hat.

46



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Bootie by Couleur Purple; Le Mont St.

Michel sweater; vintage shirt; Rosana pants;

jacket, plaid shirt around waist and hat

by Billy Reid; Malene Birger cardigan.



To keep up with all-business, all-season runners, Brooks added a Gore-Tex bootie to

its best seller, the Adrenaline, to create the Adrenaline ASR GTX.

Incorporating Gore-Tex to this popular style was a natural choice says Product Line Manager Carson Caprara, who adds that consumers rec-ognize and trust the Gore-Tex name for their outdoor adventures. “More people are looking to go outside and continue their regimen through the winter,” he says. “They’re varying their train-ing to experience running in different ways and get out into nature.”

INSIDE THE

OUTDOORS

FALL ’11O U T D O O R P R E V I E W

Suppliers are pushing the performance envelope next fall, answering increasing demands for product versatility—ranging from innovative linings that help pump up blood circulation to styling as suitable on the trails as in the office. The latest outdoor footwear offerings address the anywhere, anytime desires of adventure enthusiasts who seek to travel lightly and move fast. Topping the list are all-purpose shoes that can withstand the elements and handle a variety of terrain. And while tried-and-true hikers still have space on many specialty outdoor store shelves, the surge continues in all-around shoes that claim to do more—just like the enthusiasts themselves. BY MEAGAN WALKER

Fall marks Teva’s first entree into the mountain bike category. The brand has partnered with profes-

sional freerider, Jeff Lenosky, to design a pur-pose-built, technical shoe called the Links, as well as a less intricate version, the Pinner.

Product manager Chris Hillyer is optimistic about the brand’s foray into mountain biking, but not necessarily surprised. “Teva has over 25 years of experience building shoes with traction for wet, slippery rocks,” he says. “It’s not a big leap for us to apply our technology to moun-tain bike shoes.”

TEVA AHNU BROOKSBuilding on the success of its popular Montara Boot Hiker, Ahnu introduces an après ski

boot, the Tahoe, for Fall ’11. The Tahoe features 200 grams of insula-

tion, a down-feather nylon tongue and a waterproof, breathable membrane. Like most Ahnu styles, this one also features Numentum Technology, which helps to carry the foot back to a neutral position and facilitates the body’s natural movements.

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Tecnica streamlines for the elements with its signature Tecnica

Rolling System (TRS). The system eradi-cates the so-called “dead spot” that occurs while walking, thereby signifi-cantly improving the wearer’s transition of energy.

The system is ideal for winter per-formance because there’s more surface area touching the ground at all times, providing even better traction. The newest model with TRS is the Cyclone Thermic GTX, complete with leather upper and a Gore-Tex waterproof membrane.

Chaconians rejoice: Your winter line has arrived. New casual styles lined

with shearling and wool warm up feet and keep water out with added protection from cold-weather Vibram Burly outsoles.

Available for men and women, the Credence blurs the work/relaxation gap, and marketing manager Whitney Conner sees the boot evolving into a do-it-all style. “I won’t be surprised when it grows into that year-round boot,” she says. “You know the type: The leave by the door, slip on under a dress, go out to grab the mail in bad weather, chop wood, pick up your kids and so on.”

Keen enters Fall ’11 with what it describes as a trail-ready boot. The Gypsum, perfect for an overnighter or a two- to-three day hike, caters

to a slightly different customer—one who’s just a little more advanced. Matching the shoe’s athletic customers to a national park, Blaine Conrad, Keen global outdoor category director, says, “Gypsum would be Yosemite.”

A new winter style, the Revel, also arrives on shelves for men and women. The boot combines an unmatched trio of traction, warmth and breathability to fend off the harshest of winter weather conditions, Conrad says. Warmth is created in the boot’s dead airspace, with a honeycomb grid of material, including a reflective layer closer to the ground and a layer of wool next to the foot bed—resulting in one seriously cozy boot.

Specialty stores sound off about what’s moving off shelves, running clubs and the (somewhat) sunny outlook for 2011.

With the long shadow of 2009 no longer darkening many sales floors, spe-cialty outdoor retailers from coast to coast believe this spring will give store owners reason to smile. “Consumers are loosening up their wallets and the recession is starting to recede,” notes Mike Dahlberg, head buyer for Midwest Mountaineering in Minneapolis, MN. “There’s pent-up demand for what [cus-tomers] have been craving.”

Dahlberg says what they’re craving in the City of Lakes is natural motion footwear. Keen and Merrell sell well, but he says Vibram FiveFingers is easily their best seller, and offers other retailers his own mantra for 2011: “Watch Vibram very closely.”

Somewhat surprisingly, further west in Fort Collins, CO, The Mountain Shop co-manager, Mike Caputo, has never heard of Vibram FiveFingers. The in-demand products at this store include Ahnu, Patagonia, Teva and

relaxed surf-sand brand, OluKai. Looking forward to this year, Caputo sees La Sportiva becoming its top-selling brand. His biggest business gripe is with the large outdoor shops. “The bigger chain stores have return guaran-tees that are hard to compete with,” he says. “You go to REI and you can return a pair of boots after 100 days, and they’re already destroyed.”

Drive an hour south on I-25 in Colorado and the town of Golden will appear. There, The North Face’s Abby style garners attention, as do most high boots with a little fur. For hikng, Merrell high-tops are number one, and as for natural motion, customers have begun buying Vibram for yoga and pilates.

On the east coast, nestled along the Appalachian Trail within New Hampshire’s border is outdoor specialty shop The Mountain Goat of Hanover. Kendra Dynok, the store’s manager and buyer, has seen an upswing in road runners throughout 2010. To capitalize, she launched a running club. Members have the perk of invitations to in-store clinics from companies like Brooks and Saucony. Dynok says it’s been the best business decision she’s made all year. As for the outdoor category, Montrail and Salomon have flown off Mountain Goat’s shelves.

RETAIL SPEAK

KEENTECNICA CHACO

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Go-to running brand Saucony expands further into out-doors and aprés with three new shoes for Fall ’11. The ProGrid Outlaw has a unique three-quarter-cut, giving it a

basketball-esque look but weighing in at only 11.5 ounces. Despite its svelte figure, the Outlaw provides plenty of support around the Achilles heel, thanks to a neoprene notch that hugs the tendon.

The Razor 2.0 is the company’s all-weather trail update and is a bit heartier than the Outlaw. With a zip-up gator built around the sneaker to keep debris

out, plus waterproof and water-resistant qualities, the elements are no match for the style. “People are looking for all-season shoes,” says Patrick O’Malley, Saucony’s senior vice president. “Not just summer, not just fall—they are get-ting out there even in the winter. Running is a year-round sport.”

For its après style, Saucony has adapted its AMP PRO2 technology for footwear. AMP PRO uses a polyester fiber called Celliant that absorbs energy the body emits and recycles it back into the skin, making circulation more efficient and increasing oxygenated blood flow by up to 32 percent. •

For Fall ’11, New Balance

marries outdoor and athletic with its second-generation multisport collection. The 1521, an update to the super-successful 1520, stays competitive in the crowded all-purpose category by going against the grain: Rather than bulking up the shoe, New Balance strips away the layers and increases flexibility. As Katherine Petrecca, the company’s strategic business manager, says, “The last thing anyone needs is one more multi-sport shoe that responds the same way.”

Blow out those candles, Merrell: The company celebrates

30 years in business this fall. For the milestone, the brand has reinvented its iconic collection, the Wilderness. Now named Origins, the line features modern touches. For guys, the original Wilderness Canyon with electric blue laces returns, but its weight has been trimmed by 25 percent.

Merrell also updates its take on the minimalist trend, specifically for cold weather. The Sonic Glove for men and Lithe Glove for women are appropriate for the colder months, complete with soft shell uppers for protection from the elements.

What to pack for the trail is a recurring dilem-ma for many adventure

seekers, but GoLite thinks it has men and women covered with its Travel Collection. Part of the BareTech series, the new six-style collection is based on a neutral palette that easily mixes and matches with clothing. The line brings the benefits of barefoot running to an everyday shoe.

GoLite also developed a Zero Impact sole that caters to the most serious out-door athlete. The zero-drop heel allows the runner to move at a swifter pace while conserving more energy, equat-ing to minimal impact on the body and improved endurance.

GOLITE MERRELL

SAUCONY

NEW BALANCEGoLite

New Balance

Saucony

The Art of Comfortcute, unique &incredibly comfortable.

In Stock | Open Stock

| Feb. 7-9, 2011 | Feb. 14-16, 2011

www.springfootwear.com | 800.962.0030ire Lollipop Bumblebee

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COBB GALLERIA CENTRE | RENAISSANCE WAVERLY HOTEL | ATLANTA

For show information contact 706-923-0580 | www.atlantashoemarket.com

HOTEL ACCOMMODATIONSRenaissance Waverly Hotel – $129Please refer to The Atlanta Shoe Market. 888.391.8724Embassy Suites Galleria – $109 single, $129 double. 770.984.9300Atlanta Marriott Hotel NW – $95. 800.228.9290Sheraton Suites – $98. 770.995.3900

AIRFARE SPECIAL RATEWe have arranged a 10% discount on the lowest available AirTran Airways one-way fare. In order to receive this special rate, you must book your reservation by calling the Event Savers Desk at 866.683.8368. Please refer to: Event Code AMS11. Please call 8:00 - 9:00 pm EST, Monday thru Friday.

CAR RENTALTo reserve a vehicle, call 800.rentacar or visit www.enterprise.com and refer to Corporate Account# 03CON15 Pin# ATL

SIR MEETING (Southeastern Independent Retailers)

Saturday, February 19, 2011, 6:00 - 7:00 pm, Room 119, Cobb Galleria Centre. Admission is complimentary for all independent retailers, but space is limited. Please pre-register if you plan to attend.

AIRPORT SHUTTLE SERVICE/A & M LIMO & GALLERIA DIRECTNon-stop service between the Renaissance Waverly Hotel at the Cobb Galleria Centre and the Hartsfield-Jackson Atlanta International Airport. Service from the airport every half hour from 7:00 am to 11:00 pm. Service to airport every hour from 6:00 am to 6:00 pm. $30* one way (advance reservations only); $50* round trip (advance reservations only). For Reservations: By phone: 770-955-4565 (Mon.-Fri, 8:00 am to 8:00 pm) By email: www.aandmlimo.com Online: http://galleriadirect.net/reservations.asp *Prices subject to change

Cocktail Party & Casino Night

Spot On!All the latest styles. All under one roof. Convenient. Affordable. And fresh new areas to shop: The Fashion Collection and The Kids Shoe Box.

The Atlanta Shoe Market: the one show you should attend this season.

February 19-21 2011

Saturday, February 19, 2011 | 6:00 - 9:00 pm

COBB ENERGY PERFORMING ARTS CENTRERound-trip shuttle service (two-minute ride) is available to and from the Cobb Energy Performing Arts Centre. Pick up and drop off at the east parking lot of the Cobb Galleria Centre.

Featuring “SIMPLY IRRESISTIBLE”

Complimentary to all attendees

Elaborate buffet & one complimentary drink per person

Sunday, February 20, 2011Breakfast 7:30 amSeminar from 8:00 - 9:00 amRenaissance Waverly HotelWilton Room

Presented by Ellen Campuzano

$10 per person and the $10 will be refunded the day of the seminar. Space is limited, so please register early. Make checks payable to: Southeastern Shoe Travelers.

Registration Deadline: January 14, 2011.


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Northside

Designers tie in warm and fuzzy feminine details to utilitarian boots.Photography by Dean Powell

SNOWBUNNIES

Teva

Ahnu


FA LL 2011 OUTD O ORPR EV I E W

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Chaco

Merrell

Keen

Hi-Tec

Timberland


Brooks

GoLite

Oboz

Merrell

Saucony

New Balance

FA LL 2011 OUTD O ORPR EV I E W

TRAIL BLAZERSWarm hues spice up the trail running category with glowing results.

Brooks

GoLite

Oboz

Merrell

Saucony

New Balance



TRUE GRITAll-purpose styles suitable for on- and off-road.

Merrell

Patagonia

Timberland

GoLite

Sorel

New Balance

Keen

Ahnu



CEO Tom Romeo founded Bearpaw in 2001 to

redefine casual sheepskin footwear. The result:

shoes, boots and slippers that are as stylish as

they are comfort-

able. With commitment to quality, each Bearpaw

shoe focuses on comfort and fit, using only the

highest standards of craftsmanship. Available

throughout the United States and in 13 countries

around the world, Bearpaw will continue offering

the utmost in comfort. Look for chic new designs

in premium materials for women, men and

children. Visit us at the following shows: Surf

Expo, ASR, OR, FFANY, WSA, Magic,

FN Platform and the Atlanta Shoe

Market.

With Sandalistas, cork

comfort merges the ben-

efits of Lynco support and

lightweight, shock-absorbing

properties. Along with a memory

foam top cover for customized

cushioning and an anti-bacterial

footbed, unique features include a

Met Bar Pod to reduce stress at the

ball-of-foot and a Medial Support Pod to minimize

over-pronation. The collection is available in a variety of styles and colors.

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Known as “shoe fashion that fits me,” Ara

brings the season’s most important styling,

colors and materials to our wide range of

boots, pumps, flats, casual and walking

shoes—with an emphasis on

comfort and fit. All styles are in stock for immediate in-season delivery.

Visit us at FFANY (Feb. 1-3) at our New York head-

quarters, 12 W. 57th Street, Suite 1001; and at

the Atlanta Shoe Market (Feb. 19-21), Cobb

Galleria Centre and Renaissance Waverly

Hotel (booth numbers 1217-1219 and

1316-1318).

www.aetrex.comwww.ara-shoes.com

www.bearpawshoes.com

Step into wellness! Experience Earth, the

healthy footwear with the 3.7º sole incline

that helps naturally improve posture and

reduce joint stress. Our new Fall 2011

collection features a range of fashionable

boots with on-trend details such as faux

shearling, ribbon and buckle accents.

Visit us at WSA, FN Platform

and Atlanta Shoe Market.

www.earthfootwear.com

Long Range by Rocky meets the footwear needs

of active consumers—be it on the ranch, in the

woods, on the beat or at a construction site.

Innovative features include the Long Range

X Peak Performance System, proprietary

Long Range Leather by SRL, the

Expansion Fit Seam and the

Stabili-Shank.

www.rockyboots.com

Our luxurious new 2011 collection is avail-

able at ENK Children’s Club, KSA, MAX,

FN Platform, Atlanta Shoe Market and

The Children’s Great Event. On-trend

footwear with clothing to match and

an ongoing commitment to quality

and customer service are

our signatures.

www.primigi.it

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With a slogan of “Comfort Made

in Italy,” Fly Flot introduces

advanced technology to achieve

superior flexibility, softness and

lightness. The longer you own a

pair of Fly Flots, the more they

adjust to the way you walk, stand

and live. Visit us at WSA, Magic

and the Atlanta Shoe Market.

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Geox’s Fall 2011 collections convey chic Italian

style as well as function. For women, the focus is

on an exciting array of boots, ballerinas and

moccasins. Our men’s line features many new boot

styles and great relaxed dress shoes. We’ll also

debut Amphibiox, our newest patented waterproof

system. Visit us at WSA, FN Platform, FFANY

(29 W. 34th St.) and Atlanta Shoe Market

(booths 1327-1333).

Celebrating its 20th anniversary this

January, Spring Footwear proudly

presents its 2011 winter collection.

Designed with traditional European

quality and craftsmanship, Spring Step

combines comfort, technology and

fashion to bring you everything that’s important in a shoe, and the ultimate

in walking pleasure. Visit us at WSA, Magic and the Atlanta Shoe Market.

Based on Muck Boots’

traditional comfort

and warmth, the new

Tatton style (pic-

tured) offers practical

design and stunning

autumn colors for

rainy skies, puttering

in the garden or simply being out and about on

a snowy day. The Tatton is a full knee-high boot

with clean lines and easy-wash rubber overlays.

The outsole features a large surface area for a

secure grip in slick conditions,

as well as great traction for walking.

www.shopgeox.com www.springfootwear.com

We’ve always had one goal when it comes

to our collections: that they’re unique and

fashionable as well

as comfortable. With our

wide variety of styles,

we create the best

selections for our customers to enjoy—such

as the chic wedge Tower 10 featured here.

Visit us at: WSA, Sands Expo, (Feb. 7-9);

FN Platform, Las Vegas Convention

Center (Feb. 14-17); and Atlanta

Shoe Market (Feb. 19-20).

www.blossomfootwear.com

www.dansko.com

A gorgeous black Nappa knee-high boot from the

new Yardley collection, the Brinkley (pictured)

features a contoured footbed, exceptional arch

support and side-zip closure for seamless fit and

all-day comfort. Visit us at Outdoor Retailer, FN

Platform and other shows to see the Brinkley

and all of our new Fall 2011 collections.

www.springfootwear.com

www.muckboots.com

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A division

of White

Mountain

Footwear, Rialto

is inspired by the

famous Rialto Bridge in

Venice, Italy—representing

a combination of architec-

tural beauty and innovative

design. Look for value, design,

quality and fashion in every pair

of Rialto shoes.

Western Chief Kids and Sanrio have done it again

—this time, by adding the Hello Kitty Froggy

to the family! These bright colors and

cheerful prints will bring a smile to

any child’s face, and have them

jumping from puddle

to puddle!

Bows and

ruffles add

a whimsical

touch to the

fun, playful set.

In a class by themselves, Chooka

rainboots offer an array of dazzling

colors and designs to prove that

form and function are synonymous

with style. In any weather, Chookas

are more than an accessory to an

outfit; in fact, they are the outfit!

The line caters to any style, from

classic to edgy. Look for funky

patterns in several new silhouettes,

including riding boots and tall knee

boots. Visit us at ENK Children’s

Club, FFANY, WSA, MAGIC, FN

Platform and Atlanta Shoe

Market.

Since its creation, Yaleet (distributor of Naot Footwear) operates accord-

ing to two basic principles: We offer solutions and promise trust. Our

superbly crafted products demonstrate our response to the compelling

need for healthy, comfortable and fashionable footwear. At the same time,

our commitment to integrity makes quality customer service our highest

priority. Visit us at FFANY, WSA, Platform and the

Atlanta Shoe Market.

www.naot.com

www.chookaboot.com www.westernchief.com

www.whitemt.com www.riekerfootwear.co.uk

For Fall 2011, Rieker introduces the “Antistress”

Kendra ankle boot—known as “comfort right out of

the box.” Pictured here in burgundy, this style also

comes in black, dark brown, nut and gray. In addi-

tion to our Antistress collection, preview the newly

launched Remonte Dorndorf line at WSA, FN

Platform and The Atlanta Shoe Market.

Something rather unexpected happened when wellness and

fashion joined forces: A whole new kind of women’s

footwear was born! Extending Earthies’ momentum

into Fall/Winter 2011 is a

debut collection of fashion-

forward designs and silhou-

ettes. Experience Earthies:

Wellness. Elevated. Visit us

at WSA, FN Platform and

the Atlanta Shoe Market.

www.earthiesusa.com

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THE ONLY TRADITION Italian-made Gidigio breaks is price point. Since 1996, Gidigio designer Giorgio D’Alessandro has blended of-the-moment fashion with the highest quality materials and craftsmanship that uphold the “Made in Italy” cachet. As Gidigio’s U.S. rep Kevin Powers of C6 Wholesale notes, the line is moderately priced with retails starting at $199. The brand, which has a loyal following in Germany and Den-

store Carbon, where it was sold exclusively for a successful fi ve years. Together, Powers and D’Alessandro are now expanding the line’s breadth of retailers.

The mostly women’s range has been edited for the States, but still has a robust offering of 50 to 60 styles for spring. In par-ticular, the brand has focused on expanding its range of work-appropriate yet fashion-forward silhouettes. “Work, wine and walk,” Powers offers. “We wanted silhouettes that won’t freak out the boss, but look stylish enough to wear on the town and feel comfortable for walking.” Comfort, Powers adds, is the sur-prising element and essential for the brand’s “city-centric demo-graphic” who walk to most places. Soft, glove-like leather is one way Gidigio delivers on that promise. “The talented families who create these shoes are true artists who pass their skills down to each generation. They create footwear for major labels that are synonymous with luxury, as well as a ‘Made in Italy’ price tag.”

Gidigio’s loosely twisted leather has garnered the mostat-tention from buyers. The technique appears on a variety of sil-houettes, including a peep-toe slingback sandal, two-inch heel

sandal and fl ats with ankle ties. Oxfords—both fl at and with a chunky, stacked heel—are gain-ing traction with a unique wheel-burnishing technique. Other silhouettes include cap-toe lace-ups, cuffed sandals, loafers and gusseted Chelsea boots.

Powers says Gidigio is for the customer who doesn’t care about instantly recognizable lo-gos. “The shoes are as at home in a high-end store next to $500 styles as they are in trendier stores like New York’s Tani,” he says. “The key is having sales-people who engage customers. Once customers dabble with a pair, they come back for more.” —Angela Velasquez

Italian NiceOffering European fashion at moderate prices, Gidigio’s U.S. presence expands.

Highline United takes a shot with Gunmetal.BUILDING UPON ITS base of fashionable footwear brands, New York’s Highline United is expanding Gunmetal—the fi rm’s junior-oriented line that launched softly last spring—into a full-fl edged collection for Fall ’11. Contem-porary and affordable with a price point between $80 and $120, Gunmetal is poised to hit the majors and snap up a piece of the price-conscious market with a taste for current fashion.

The Gunmetal lady, says Lauren Picciano, Highline United advertising manager, knows how to play with color, patterns and prints, adding she’s “not afraid to take risks and is her own personal stylist.” The fall line is fi lled with textural pony hair, faux sting ray, tweeds, fl annel, soft leathers and suede—trendy looks that Picciano says enable the consumer to make an “emotional” purchase. “Unlike other trend-driven brands, we push the envelope by putting out product we believe in and that looks one-of-a-kind,” she explains.

Maintaining the footwear’s wearability was key, too. Picciano says a fashion line cannot exist without a peppering of 4.5-inch platform pumps and mules, but the majority of silhouettes are fl ats and wedges, or grounded with a chunky heel. And countering the Spring ’11 collection’s pale leather, braided wedges, open-toe boots and strappy sandals, the fall range uses dark and muted shades of gray, rich caramel and brown. “Brown is a special color for us,” Picciano says. “We don’t necessarily use it on our upper patterns, but rather, on our heel fi nishes, small piping and stitching.” Multiple straps, hardware, canvas and raw-edge leathers lend a military vibe to the animal print-heavy Lady Safari group—which, after a successful run last spring, will carry over into next sea-son. Tall suede lace-up boots, mixed-media buckled loafers and slouchy angu-lar granny-style boots—part of the line’s push for a preppy and man-tailored aesthetic—are also generating buyer buzz. Tassels, kilties, panels of plaid and contrasting laces in primary colors round out the collection, adding a tongue-in-cheek nod to varsity fl air. —A.V.

Hot Metal


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mark, entered the U.S. market at Powers’ Washington, D.C.,

JUST LIKE THE women who wear it, the Strenesse Gabriele Strehle collection is in constant motion. Deeply rooted in Germany’s gar-ment industry (founding company Wohlfahry & Co. began producing outerwear in 1949), Strenesse has evolved from basics to designer ap-parel and footwear. Led by creative

director Gabriele Strehle (inset), who came on board in 1975, the brand has forged its niche in the upper tier with its signature style of subtle design lavished with detail. In 2000, the com-pany launched a New York-based subsidiary with Strehle’s name.

Her designs are based on the company’s classic values which, Strehle describes, is a balancing act to show “strength and fragility and mind appeal and sex appeal, because the woman of today and tomorrow cultivates the harmony of her contra-dictions.” Strehle describes the Spring ’11 collec-tion ($350 to $700 retail) as styles for women who are constantly on the go. “Each element of the shoe expresses a different feeling, from the colors to the fabrics. The pieces make an impact,” she explains.

Although Strehle often takes cues from music and theater, for spring she drew inspiration from London—specifi cally Petticoat Lane’s boundless diversity, the subtle glamour of Hyde Park and the oft-wild Portobello Market. Key silhouettes include kitten-heel slingbacks, peep-toe “shoot-ies,” distressed Oxfords and ballerina fl ats with a soft square toe in nude and ocean tones.

Designer Chat: Gabriele Strehle

EDITOR’S PICKSFringe Festival

Kilties accent women’s fashions for Fall ’11.

Which trends are you anticipating for fall? There will be new pleasure in elegance. People are ready to move past the loud, clamorous, strutting style that pervades today’s music and fi lm.

Which shoe designers do you admire most? Salvatore Ferragamo was both a visionary and an inventor. He dreamed up the wedge heel and even studied anatomy classes with the aim of designing shoes that were more comfortable. He was brilliantly perceptive, designing ballerina fl ats for Audrey Hepburn and high heels for Marilyn Monroe. I also admire Manolo Blahnik because his shoes are veritable sculptures.

Which pair of shoes in your closet is get-ting the most wear of late? The fi rst pair of sneakers I designed for the fashion show in Milan in 1998—we gave them to all of the guests. They are as soft as a glove, light, adaptable and elegant.

What’s missing in the U.S. footwear market? Many people today seem to equate comfort with shapelessness and believe that sneakers are the only shoes it’s possible to move around in. We could really use some of the spirit of Ferragamo, who came from Italy and convinced all of Hollywood that comfort and elegance could be combined. —Angela Velasquez

Caption: Lisa by Donald Pliner stiletto; Sanita clog; Sperry Top-Sider wedge;

boot by Lovely People.


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LAWYER BY DAY, shoe importer by night: That’s the life of Sal Hazday, owner of A&N Imports. Hazday began bringing the Brazilian brand Toke (pronounced Toe-KAY) to South Florida boutiques about fi ve years ago.

Hazday happened upon the line of sandals and closed-toe shoes for girls, which he calls “classically elegant,” while on business in South America. His assigned territory was Brazil and, like any good father, he never failed to bring back his two daughters some gifts from his travels. Oftentimes, that gift would be Toke shoes. “My wife’s friends always loved them,” Hazday says. “That gave me an idea: Maybe one day, this could even become a business opportunity”

Putting thought into action, Hazday scoped out a number of shoe factories in the small city of Birigui, an area known for shoe production in the state of Sao Paulo. He decided on Toke, a family-run factory that produces no more than 1,000 pairs of shoes per day due to intricate handwork.

Along with craftsmanship, Hazday says what sets Toke apart from other traditional styles is the crepe sole used in toddler sizes: Unlike a rubber sole, the crepe version is more malleable. “It gives the shoe a great level of fl exibility,” Hazday attests, “and provides safety because it doesn’t slip.”

Mary Jane and T-strap styles dominate the Toke line in dress up-friendly metallics adorned with bows. “If Mom is shopping for a special occasion, it matches easily,” Hazday says. For everyday dress, summertime sandals in pink, green and blue pastels features fl ower details, and the Baby line includes a more casual sneaker. All styles have leather uppers and linings. Already well-known (and liked) in South Florida boutiques, Toke is beginning to rise in popularity in other areas of the country, Hazday reports. —M.W.

Latin SoleHow one father’s travels to South America sparked a shoe company.

Barefoot Benefi tsSynclaire’s kids line merges style and wellness.WITH HOLISTIC LIVING as hot as it’s ever been, it was only a matter of time before kids footwear followed suit. Synclaire Brands surges forward in the natural movement category with the introduction of its Barefoot Walking line for infants. Using Action Flex Technology, unique grooves in the shoes’ outsoles help increase pliability. Furthermore, the grooving is angled, rather than straight across—provid-ing little feet the freedom to move naturally.

“Action Flex adds stability to the shoe, so there’s a holistic aspect,” says Peter Roccamo, brand manager. “We tried to design the shoe with that feel-ing in mind.”

The collection strikes a balance between allowing the child’s foot to develop naturally and providing sup-port. “It defi nitely breaks away from the hard leathers of years past,” Roccamo says.

Available at independent retailers, the Barefoot Walking line boasts more than 20 styles, including hot pink and black ballerina fl ats, pink ankle-strap silhouettes, denim fi sherman sandals, bow-accented metallic sandals and white kicks. —Meagan Walker


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m a d e y o u l o o kå

PROTECTIVE, CUSHY FOOTWEAR is a non-negotiable for acclaimed chefs Marcus Samuelsson, Chris Cosentino and Aarón Sanchez, all of whom spend 14-plus hours on their feet on any given day. Between the three, they have ap-peared on “Iron Chef America,” “Top Chef Masters” and as judges on the Food Network in addition to holding executive chef positions in renowned restaurants in San Francisco and New York.

The chefs, who formerly wore Con-verse, Keen and Birkenstock footwear in the kitchen, will now don their very own line of shoes: the Sharkz from Mozo, a brand within the Deckers Out-door portfolio, makers of Ugg, Teva and Simple. Set to hit stores this spring, the Sharkz weigh in at a mere eight ounces in women’s (10 ounces in men’s)—incredibly light for a kitchen shoe. The collection also features superior ventila-tion, one of the most important aspects of kitchen footwear. “I was blown away. The hood catches air and pushes it into the shoe, providing just enough ventila-tion,” Cosentino explains. “It’s great to put on a shoe with a footbed that’s not curling up [from so much moisture].”

Made of full-grain leather, the Sharkz feature a TripleFit System, which allows the size of the volume inside the shoe to be customized by up to a half size. The foot beds are also removable so they can air out after a long shift.

But the Sharkz go beyond just com-fort—they’re stylish and affordable, too. “The entire shoe, from sole to top, is a palette that we can paint, decorate, color or sew,” says Mozo president Stuart Jen-kins. “This shoe lets chefs express their personality and sense of style.”

For now, the designing chefs are cooking in plain white or black Mozos, but soon they’ll receive their custom de-signs. Jenkins says Cosentino’s creation is all about “sneakers, surf and Califor-nia;” Samuelsson’s appear urbane, so-phisticated and “very New York;” while Sánchez’s convey his Latin heritage. “We couldn’t be more thrilled about their sense of style,” Jenkins says.

The Sharkz are set to retail at $59.95 for a plain white or black pair and $69.95 for the Signature Chef-designed versions. —Meagan Walker

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h o t o u t o f t h e o v e n

Chef Aarón Sanchez (seated, center) designs his shoe with the Mozo team.

Chef Marcus Samuelsson

Chef Chris Cosentino

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Documents

Footwear Plus | The Source for Retailers | 2011 • January