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Fashion in History: A Global Look Tutor: Giorgio Riello Week 17 Tuesday 23 February 2010 FASHION AND CONSUMERS’ LIFESTYLES, 1950-1990. 1. From Couture to Prêt-à-porter. Paul Poiret in the 1940s. 1. From Couture to Prêt-à-porter. Christian Dior, 1905-1957. Marcel Boussac. - PowerPoint PPT Presentation
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Fashion in History: A Global Look
Tutor: Giorgio Riello
Week 17
Tuesday 23 February 2010
FASHION AND CONSUMERS’ LIFESTYLES, 1950-1990
1. From Couture to Prêt-à-porter
Paul Poiret in the 1940s
Christian Dior, 1905-1957
1. From Couture to Prêt-à-porter
Marcel Boussac
Yves St. Laurent (1936-2008)
Gianfranco Ferré 1944-2007 Hedi Sliimane (1968 - )
2. Pret-à-Porter
prêt-à-porter (ready to wear) was invented by Jean Claude Weill in 1949
and should be distinguished from the expression ‘ready-made’
2. Pret-à-Porter
Lipovetsky thinks that prêt-à-porter changed the rules of fashion:
1. it provided an alternative between couture and mass;
2. it allowed a stronger link with the fashion of the new fashion leaders: the young;
3. and in the long-run couture disappears entirely
3. The Birth of Italian Fashion
The first Italian Fashion catwalk was organised by Giovanni Battista Giorgini in Florence on the 12 February 1951
Salvatore Ferragamo’s Workshop in Florence before the second world war
Present at the Florence show, 12 February 1951:
Sorelle FontanaEmilio SchulberthJole VenezianiEmilio Pucci,Salvatore Ferragamo
Creation of the Sorelle Fontana, early 1950s, inspired by a Renaissance painting
Actor Tyrone Power married Linda Christian in Rome in 1949.The bride wore a dress by Sorelle Fontana.
Audrey Hepburn (1929-1993) with Salvatore Ferragamo (1899-1960)
Ava Gardner (1922-1990) wearing the ‘Pretino’ (little Priest) dress by the Sorelle
Fontana
Sofia Loren (1934- ) with Jayne Mansfield (1933-67)
Elio Fiorucci opened 300 shops in Italy in the 1960s
Fiorucci’s advert of the 1980s
Missoni’s zig-zag knitwear Krizia
‘Milano da Bere – Milan to Drink in the Ramazzotti Advert came to symbolize the refined atmosphere of the Italian capital of fashion in the 1980s
4. The 1980s
5. The End of Class and Nationality?
The possible decline of ‘class’ as a way of structuring fashion should be qualified in three ways:
1. subcultures provide a different way of ‘reading’ society;
2. Society is more flexible and malleable. Bauman talks about a ‘liquid society’;
3. We should differentiate between the UK and the rest of Europe.
6. Youth Fashion Culture
James Dean and Marlon Brando, both wearing jeans