EAT Magazine March | April 2010

L o c a l | S u s t a i n a b l e | F r e s h | S e a s o n a l

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R E S T A U R A N T S | R E C I P E S | W I N E S | C U L I N A R Y T R A V E L

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agazine.ca The 1st

AnnualEXCEPTIONALEATS!AwardsResults

In Defenceof French Food

FOOD HEROMary Alice Johnson

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YOURDEFINITIVE GUIDE TO THE FOOD&DRINKOF VICTORIA&VANCOUVER ISLAND A 100% food & wine

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for people who love to cook

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SOPHIE CONRAN’S STUNNING ANDAWARD-WINNING COLLECTION OF

OVEN-TO-TABLEWARE Easter treats...from the bottom ofthe deep blue sea

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CommunityVictoria: ReMeyer, TofSchell

ContributoPamDurkin, GJernigan, TrMcAdam, KaJulie Pegg, GAdem TepedePublisher PAdvertising250.384.9All departmBox 5225, Vwww.eatmaSince 1998 |reproduced witPacific Island Gopinions expreIsland Gourmet

ConciergeEAT AwardIsland GraSeasonalGood for YChefs TalkLocal HeroCooking CVictoria ReEatingWeFood + Tra

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3www.eatmagazine.caMARCH | APRIL 2010

Editor in Chief Gary HynesContributing Editor Carolyn Bateman, Vancouver Contributing Editor Julie Pegg

Editorial Assistant/Web Editor Rebecca Baugniet

Community ReportersVictoria: Rebecca Baugniet, Nanaimo: Su Grimmer, Comox Valley: Hans PeterMeyer, Tofino | Uclulet: Jen Dart, Vancouver: Julie Pegg, Okanagan: JenniferSchell

Contributors Larry Arnold, Joseph Blake, Michelle Bouffard, Jennifer Danter, Jen Dart,PamDurkin, Gillie Easdon, Jeremy Ferguson, Nathan Fong, Holland Gidney, Laurie Guy, MaraJernigan, Tracey Kusiewicz, Kathryn Kusyszyn, Ceara Lornie, Sherri Martin, RhonaMcAdam, KathrynMcAree,DeniseMarchessault, MichaelaMorris, TimMorris, Colin Newell,Julie Pegg, Genevieve Laplante, Karen Platt, Treve Ring, Solomon Siegel, Elizabeth Smyth,Adem Tepedelen, Michael Tourigny, Sylvia Weinstock, Rebecca Wellman, Katie ZdybelPublisher Pacific Island Gourmet | EAT ® is a registered trademark.Advertising:250.384.9042, [email protected] departmentsBox 5225, Victoria, BC, V8R 6N4, tel. 250-384-9042, fax. 250-384-6915www.eatmagazine.ca eatjobs.ca epicureandtravel.comSince 1998 | EAT Magazine is published six times each year. No part of this publication may bereproduced without the written consent of the publisher. Although every effort is taken to ensure accuracy,Pacific Island Gourmet Publishing cannot be held responsible for any errors or omissions that may occur. Allopinions expressed in the articles are those of the writers and not necessarily those of the publisher. PacificIsland Gourmet reserves the right to refuse any advertisement. All rights reserved.

Concierge Desk . . . . . . . . 6EAT Awards Results . . . . .8Island Grain series . . . . .12Seasonal Foods . . . . . . . .13Good for You . . . . . . . . . . 14Chefs Talk . . . . . . . . . . . . .15Local Hero . . . . . . . . . . . . 16Cooking Class . . . . . . . . .17Victoria Reporter . . . . . . 18EatingWell for Less . . . .19Food + Travel . . . . . . . . . .20

Food Matters . . . . . . . . . .22Feature Recipe . . . . . . . .23Local Kitchen . . . . . . . . . 24Vancouver Feature . . . . . 27Nathan Fong . . . . . . . . . .28The BC Food Scene . . . . 30A Chef’s Comment . . . . .36Liquid Assets . . . . . . . . . 37IslandWine . . . . . . . . . . .38Wine & Terroir . . . . . . . . .40The Mixologist . . . . . . . .42

COVER: In Defense of French Food. Photo by Rebecca Wellman

4 EATMAGAZINEMARCH | APRIL 2010

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out. I’d also lof the draw wAs we com

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S tarting on page 8 you will find the results and the winners for the 1st AnnualExceptional Eats! Awards survey. A big thanks to all the readers who voted and abig thanks to all the tweeters, bloggers and businesses that helped get the word

out. I’d also like to thank the sponsors who donated fantastic prizes. I’m sure the winnersof the draw will enjoy theirs.As we compiled the votes ( a big job) I was struck by how democratic this approach was

compared to the typical newspaper or magazine awards. Usually, a small group of criticscome up with a few nominations which readers then vote on. With our approach, readerswere free to vote for whomever they wanted. Were the results different than if we had hada nominating committee?We’ll never know. But one thing is for certain, the EATwinners arenot only a reflection—a snapshot perhaps—of our eating and drinking culture onVancouver Island; but all the award winners and honourable mention winners deserve ourrecognition, praise for a job well done and our continuing support of their businesses.

Bon appétit

Gary Hynes, Editor

eatmagazineMarch | April 2010

from the editor

500+Chefs to gather in theCowichanValley2010 Canadian Chefs Congress “Oceans for Tomorrow”Lots of wheels have been churning aroundmeeting tables and kitchen tables in the pastfew months. Local chefs have taken on the huge task of inviting 500 of Canada’s topculinary professionals to the Canadian Chefs Congress to be held September 11-12 atProvidence Farm in the fertile Cowichan Valley.The Farm has a rich and colored history as a convent, residential school and ultimately

to it’s current state as working therapeutic and community farm. The conference theme isthe Sustainability of our Oceans. Providence Farm is perched on the Cowichan RiverEstuary and minutes from the shores of the Salish Sea. The beautiful farm will be site to agathering of chefs described by creatorMichael Standtlander as a “woodstock for chefs”.Like the original gathering, this has the potential to be a momentum shifting event for ourCanadian Culinary Scene.As the chef’s talk and communicate about their role in the health of oceans, they will be

learning and bonding with like minded chefs and creating a stronger chef community as aresult. David Suzuki is slated as the keynote speaker and will undoubtedly add a rationaland reasoned note to the event.This is a chef-only event but we will be looking for products to purchase from the local

food community to feed our visitors and showcase the amazing ingredients of our region.We will also need a number of volunteers, paricularly those that have a stake in the localfood communities. It will be an amazing opportunity to learn, interact and celebrate in ourlocal products and with Canadian food heroes.We’ll keep you posted as we get organized with contact info for suppliers and volunteer

opportunities. Drop us a comment if you are interested and we’ll see what we can do.For the general public, we’ll bring a little of this culinary fire power together for a fund

raising event on May 16th. Coupled with the Spot Prawn Festival (May 15th), a 6-coursewine and food pairing event will showcase the food of top chefs like Robert Clark ofVancouver’s C restaurant. Great food, sustainable seafood, local wine all in the name ofbuilding a newwood-burning oven for Providence Farm. This will be a great compliment totheir educational and food production activities. Tickets are $125/person with all proceedsgoing into the farm project.We need your help to make this oven fundraiser a roaring success.—By Bill Jones

*To volunteer for the James Barber Benefit for Providence Farm contact Bill Jones [email protected]. For tickets call Providence Farm Info: 250-746-4204

**To purchase tickets to the 2010 Canadian Chefs Congress at Providence Farm go on lineto www.canadianchefscongress.com/british-columbia/register/Cost is $200 until June 30, then I believe they go up to $250

MarchKAMLOOPS CONSUMERWINE TASTINGOn March 4th, 2010, sample over 100 wines,watch cooking with wine demonstrations, lis-ten to live music. Kamloops Convention Cen-tre, 1250 Rogers Way, Kamloops. Ticketsavailable at the Kamloops Art Gallery or ORARestaurant Lounge. Call 250-377-2400 formore information.

CELIACWEEKEND AT THE EMPRESSSaturday March 13, and Sunday March 142010, The Empress will be hosting a specialCeliac weekend including dinner in TheEmpress Room and Afternoon Tea.

ADVANCEDTECHNIQUE SERIES AT FAIRBURNFARMFairburn Farm’s popular hands-on advancedseries is once again being offered for four Sun-days inMarch:March 7th, 14th, 21st and 28th.Attractively packaged and priced for Vancou-ver Island residents, this is a great way tospend your Sunday afternoons this spring. Aperfect way for your friends or family to re-deem Fairburn Farm gift certificates, theseclasses are suitable for cooks of varying lev-els. You'll finish this series with a wealth ofnew recipes and techniques! For registrationinformation, visit www.fairburnfarm.bc.ca

DEERHOLME FARM DINNER EVENTSMarch 2o Island Spring Seafood, April 17Morel Mushrooms. $90/person (plus GST).Classes:March 27Dungeness Crab (hands-on)April 24 Wild foods and morel mushrooms(forage walk and demo class). $100. seewww.magnorth.bc.ca for more details.

SPRING CLASSES AT TRIACULINARY STUDIOMarch 21 at 1 p.m. Triaculinary Studio, locatedin the Comox Valley, starts its series of springclasses with a day of cooking light and leanwith Chef Kathy. In this class, you’ll learn thetechniques needed to create flavourful mealswithout all the fat. From vinaigrettes to prop-erly cooked vegetables, you’ll leave with theknow-how to create a variety of healthymeals.$70 + GST. For complete class listings,www.triaculinarystudio.blogspot.com

DINING OUT FOR LIFESumac Ridge Winery presents Dining Out ForLife on Thursday, March 25th 2010. Eat outand make a difference at one of over 250 par-ticipating restaurants, from Whistler to WhiteRock, across the Fraser Valley and throughoutVancouver Island. On the mainland, 25% ofyour food bill will be donated to Friends ForLife and A Loving Spoonful, while on the is-land, the same percentage will be donated toAIDS Vancouver Island, to support people liv-ing with HIV/AIDS. For more information, andto see the list of participating restaurants, visitwww.diningoutforlife.ca

AN EVENING OF AUSTRALIANWINE TASTINGOnMarch 26th. You will be introduced to newwine styles like sparkling and rosé, explore un-usual grape varieties such as Verdelho,Marsanne and Touriga Nacional and visitlesser-known regions including Heathcote,Margaret River and the Yarra Valley. This is arare opportunity to get to know Australia moreintimately and learn about her impressive

commitment to sustainability. BuschlenMowatt Gallery Main Floor - 1445 West Geor-gia St 7:00-10:00pm. Cost $39.

QUAILS’ GATEWINE RECEPTIONFriday,March 26th, The Fairmont Empresspresents a Quails' Gate Wine Reception - awine tasting and pairing event.

FOR THE LOVE OF AFRICA SOCIETY ANNUALFUNDRAISERThe For the Love of Africa Society is hosting itsannual fundraiser Saturday March 27th. Theevent will be an African Dinner including en-tertainment with Jordan Hanson Hand DrumRhythms and will be held at the Mary Win-spear Center 2243 Beacon Ave. Sidney, BC. Allproceeds support the work ofwww.fortheloveofafrica.org.

CHOCOLATE FEST AT BEAR MOUNTAINRESORTThis year’s chocolate fest will be held Satur-day,March 27th at Bear Mountain Resort, andis presented by Big Brothers Big Sisters Victo-ria. For more information, visitwww.chocolatefest.ca

QUADY DESSERT COMPETITIONThe 22nd annual Quady Dessert Competitionwill be held Saturday, March 27 and Sunday,March 28, 2010 at Major the Gourmet’skitchen in Vancouver. Pastry chefs, cooks andstudents will compete for prizes including atrip to California for two. The competition, nowin its 22nd year, is held in conjunction with theVancouver Playhouse International Wine Fes-tival’s ‘Celebrating Excellence’. The competi-tion is unique in Canada and celebrates pastrykitchens across British Columbia inviting com-petitors from the Okanagan Valley, VancouverIsland and Vancouver.

April2ND INTERNATIONAL CANADIAN ALBACORETUNA CONVENTION & TRADE SHOWThe Canadian Highly Migratory SpeciesFoundation in conjunction with the B. C. TunaFishermen's Association is hosting the secondCanadian Albacore Tuna Convention and Trade

Culinary intelligence for the 2 months ahead

THE CONCIERGE DESK by Rebecca BaugnietFor more events visit THE BULLETIN BOARD at www.eatmagazine.ca

Show to celeCHMSF and tThis two day e2010 at the BBC. www.cana

BC FOODSERVSunday, April2010 (MondaCentre is hoshospitality travisit www.crfa

QUALICUM BApril 10th, 20this very popuavailable fromBush Book Sttre, 747 Jones4258 for more

VANCOUVERWINE FESTIVAThe VancouveFestival runsattracts somefrom around tas the continamong the bevents in theand pairings, geducational stions. This is aers, winemakfromwineriesexperienced wtival has somepocketbook. Fwww.playhou

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harbour house

Over the past thirty years Harbour House has confirmed its

reputation as one of Vancouver Island’s exceptional restaurants.

Come warm yourself by our fireplace and enjoy the many

delicacies Harbour House Restaurant has to offer, just steps

away from Victoria’s picturesque inner harbour.

DINE AROUND & STAY IN TOWN VICTORIAFebruary 18th to March 7th, 2010. Partici-pating restaurants offer three-course menusfor $20, $30 or $40 CDN per person and areall paired with BC VQA wine suggestions.Dine Around & Stay in Town Victoria is offer-ing accommodations to compliment this ex-perience, these options will allow food loversto pamper themselves with an overnight stay.Accommodations are priced at $69, $79, $99and $129. www.tourismvictoria.com/din-earound

DINE OUT VANCOUVER 2010Dine Out Vancouver 2010 is the annual eventthat allows thousands of local food enthusi-asts and tourists to dine at some of Vancou-ver's top restaurants at equally attractiveprices. Last year’s edition involved each par-ticipating restaurant featuring a specialthree-course menu at a fixed price of $18,$28, or $38. April 26 toMay 6, 2010. To viewthe list of participating restaurants, visitwww.tourismvancouver.com

ity. Buschlen45 West Geor-9.

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Show to celebrate the 8th Anniversary ofCHMSF and the 10th Anniversary of BCTFA.This two day event will take place April 19-21,2010 at the Bear Mountain Resort, Langford,BC. www.canadianalbacoretuna.com

BC FOODSERVICE EXPO IN VANCOUVERSunday, April 25, 2010 to Monday, April 26th,2010 (Monday), the Vancouver ConventionCentre is host to Western Canada’s largesthospitality trade show. For more information,visit www.crfa.ca/tradeshows/bcfse/.

QUALICUM BEACH ROTARY CLUBWINE FESTApril 10th, 2010 from 7 pm -9pm, experiencethis very popular annual Rotary event Ticketsavailable from any Rotarian or at MulberryBush Book Store. Qualicum Beach Civic Cen-tre, 747 Jones Street, Qualicum. Call 250-752-4258 for more details.

VANCOUVER PLAYHOUSE INTERNATIONALWINE FESTIVALThe Vancouver Playhouse International WineFestival runs from April 19th-25th 2010, andattracts some of the biggest industry namesfrom around the world. It is firmly establishedas the continent's premier wine event andamong the biggest, best and oldest wineevents in the world. It features wine tastingsand pairings, gourmet dinners and luncheons,educational seminars and culinary competi-tions. This is a rare opportunity to meet own-ers, winemakers and senior representativesfromwineries around the globe. For either theexperienced wine lover or the novice, the fes-tival has something to please every palate andpocketbook. For event details, visitwww.playhousewinefest.com.

Annual Ottavio BIG CHEESE CUTCome see the kitchen boys & girls of Ottaviocut the largest wheels of cheese made in theworld today including Pecorino Romano, CaveAged Organic Gruyere, the Italian beautyParmigiano Reggiano & the behemoth SwissMountain Emmenthal, weighing in at over200lb. Tastings & specials, fun for the wholefamily! Saturday April 25th 11:00.

OKANAGAN SPRINGWINE FESTIVALThe Okanagan Spring Wine Festival has beendescribed as "one of Canada's best small fes-tivals" and it is no wonder that its success con-

tinues to grow. From April 30th to May 9th,2010, experience a wide range of culinarytreats from light lunches to gourmet dinnersserved at many fabulous locations, what bet-ter way to visit OkanaganWine Country duringthe first weekend in May. Held at various loca-tions throughout Okanagan Wine Country.Visitwww.thewinefestivals.com/springfestival

PERFECT PAIRING AT JACKSON-TRIGGSFrom April 29th toMay 3rd, 2010 from 10AM -6PM, celebrate the start of a new season andexperience the 'perfect pairing'. Discover Jack-son-Triggs Okanagan Estates beautiful TastingGallery where you can savour the award win-ning collection of Grand Reserve and SunRockVineyard wines all selectively paired with thefinest Swiss chocolate from Lindt. Jackson-Triggs Okanagan Estate Tasting Gallery, 38691HWY 97, North Oliver. Call 1-866-455-0559 formore information.

James Barber Benefit for Providence FarmMay 16. Tickets: $125/person, proceeds to theProvidence Farm Woodburning Oven Project.Sixcourses: local food and wine. Top BC Chefsfrom the Canadian Chefs Congress: Rob Clark,C Restaurant; Bill Jones, Deerholme Farm;BrockWindsor, Stone Soup Inn; Cory Pelan, LaPiola; Jonathan Pulker, Pizzeria Primastrada;David Lang, Harbour House Hotel. Live music,1:00 pm - 5:00 pm. For tickets call ProvidenceFarm Info: 250-746-4204

If you have a food or wine event you wouldlike to see listed in the next issue of EAT,please email [email protected] and putConcierge Desk in the subject line.


T h e P E O P L E , S T O R I E S & W I N E S T H A T M A K E t h e B A R O S S A F A M O U S

www.peterlehmannwines.com

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Clancy of the Overfl ow is the legendary Aussie literary character, a free-spirited, wandering drover who led a life of adventure. Peter Lehmann has a lot of Clancy in him. He’s always done things his own way. His Clancy’s range is a nod to doing your own thing. Overfl owing with fl avour, these easy drinking wines are created especially for those with a bit of Clancy in them.

CULINAIREVictoria's Premier Food Tasting Experience

On Thursday April 22, 2010, The CrystalGarden will be home to Culinaire, Victoria’sPremier Food Tasting Experience, where over40 of our region’s best restaurants andpurveyors of fine food will showcase theirsignature items and inspired creations.“Culinaire is a food focused event that will

give our regional restaurants and fine foodpurveyors the opportunity to showcase theirculinary vision to a captive audience of Food-ies and lovers of great cuisine”, said ScottGurney, creator of Culinaire. “Victoria's foodscene is large and sometimes daunting.Withso many great choices and unique placesavailable, it can be very hard to choose from.This event will give the guest the chance totry an assortment of new foods andexclusive dishes in a relaxed environment.”added Gurney.The $20 admission includes 10 food

tastings from presenters. Additional tastingsare available at a cost of only $1 per item.The event also supports students in theindustry as partial proceeds from the eventwill be providing scholarship opportunitiesto the Camosun College Culinary Arts Pro-gram.

Advance tickets:www.selectyourtickets.comor charge by phone at 250-220-7777

Tickets are also available through the eventwebsite. For full event details and a list ofpresenters visit www.culinairevictoria.com

N VICTORIA2010. Partici-ourse menuserson and aresuggestions.toria is offer-ment this ex-w food loversvernight stay.$69, $79, $99oria.com/din-

annual eventfood enthusi-me of Vancou-lly attractiveved each par-g a specialprice of $18,2010. To viewaurants, visit

Readers Choice EXCEPTIONAL EATS! Awards

VANCOUVER ISLAND’S


Vancouver Islanders weigh in with their food and drink choices. Where do we eat, shop and drink?

1st Annual

VANCOUVER ISLAND’SB E S TB E S T WITH SO

MANYWORTHYAWARDS YOUREADERS ARETHE BIGWINNERS

While these thwinning restautrade place forthe pre-dinnerBrasserie provestruck the righwith local eater

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From left to right: Amelia Dubois, Marc Morrison, Sahara Tamarin, Grant Gard (glasses), Joshua Chilton, Jason Holmes, Greg Ward, Sean Brennan (standing),Bryan Allan (crouching), Steve Leroux

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Top chefs not onlythat the food comithe stove is first ratthey inspire youngchefs to strive for tbest.

Best $10 or under Menu Bite5 Tacos for $5, Hernandez Cocina(GOLD)Pulled Pork Sandwich $5, Pig BBQ Joint(SILVER)Vietnamese Ginger Caramel Chicken,Foo (BRONZE)

ards

S


Who has the Best Food?Brasserie L’Ecole (GOLD)Cafe Brio (SILVER)Zambris (BRONZE)

d drink?

S

While these three medal-winning restaurants oftentrade place for top spot,the pre-dinner line-ups atBrasserie prove they’vestruck the right chordwith local eaters.

HONOURABLE MENTIONSCamilles RestaurantStage Wine BarIl TerrazzoSooke Harbour HouseBistro 28Go online for more winners

READER’S CHOICE AWARDS

Best Farm-to-Table Cooking(use of local ingredients)Camilles Restauarant (GOLD)Sooke Harbour House (SILVER)Cafe Brio (BRONZE)

We get somewhatdifferent top spots whenwe skew the question torestaurants featuring localproducts andingredients.

HONOURABLE MENTIONSBrasserie L’EcoleZambrisLocalsLa PiolaSpinnakersGo online for more winners

Best Sustainable Seafood SourceFinest at Sea (GOLD)Thrifty Foods (SILVER)Victoria Fisherman’s Wharf (BRONZE)

Ocean Wise Top-of-MindRed Fish Blue FishCanoee MarinaLureBlue CrabSpinnakers

HONOURABLE MENTIONMarket on YatesSatellite Fish CompanyPortuguese Joe's Fish MarketMad Dog Crabs SeafoodFrench Creek Seafood

Favourite Bakery or Pastry ShopFol Epi Bakery (GOLD)Wild Fire Bread & Pastry (SILVER)Pure Vanilla Bakery & Cafe (BRONZE)

Give us our daily bread(and pastries).

Vancouver Island hassome of the best bakersaround. Take thatVancouver!

HONOURABLE MENTIONWINNERSThe Italian BakeryBubby Rose’s BakeryPatisserie DanielOttavioTrue Grain BreadGo online for more winners

Favourite ButcherSlater's First Class Meats (GOLD)Thrifty Foods (SILVER)The Red Barn (BRONZE)

e trade of butcher isdisappearing in NorthAmerica. Luckily for us,we have many skilled andknowledgeable butchersin our midst—not onlyin Victoria but aroundthe Island.

HONOURABLE MENTIONSThe Village ButcherMarket on YatesGlenwood MeatsCowichan Valley Meat MarketAlia Halal Meat & DeliPeppers FoodsNesvog Meats & SausageGo online for more winners

Readers got this deadright. I see many of mygo-to favourites. Do yousee yours?

I’ll be dining out on theanswers to this question formonths to come. With somany reader tips tofollow-up on look for moreten buck dishes within thepages of EAT in comingissues.

HONOURABLE MENTIONSFish Tacones $5, Red Fish BlueFish$5 and $10 menus, Fifth St.Frites with parmesan, garlic,parsley, truffle oil $8Brasserie L'ecoleHaloumi with local tomatoes &herb vinaigrette $10, StageGrilled Meatball Pannino $5,Italian Food ImportsCambodian Jungle Curry $10Noodle BoxGo online for more winners

Favourite Place to BreakfastTIE:Mo:Le / Blue Fox Cafe (GOLD)Shine Cafe (SILVER)John’s Place Restaurant (BRONZE)

ey say a city runs on itscollective stomach. Givenall the top breakfast jointsin town we are off togreat start to the day.

HONOURABLE MENTIONSFloyd's DinerThe Village on EstevanLady MarmaladeGo online for more winners

tanding),

Last issue we posed the question: What kind of eater are you?We knew EAT readers can be vocal about what they like. They eat loyally at

their favourite restaurants; shop for quality ingredients at farm markets,specialty delis and bakeries; and support a sustainable, seasonal and localapproach to eating.Some prefer taste above all else, others support ethical buying and concern

for the environment over genetically produced foods; while still others followthe 100 mile diet and forgo bland foods flown in at high cost.To Vancouver Island, a big thank-you for your tremendous response to the

1st Annual Exceptional Eats! Awards reader’s survey. Youwent online in drovesand barely flinched at the wopping 38 questions we posed. You’ve provenbeyond a doubt you are one of the most passionate and savvy food & wineregions in BC, Canada—hey— even North America. Go ahead and boast. Youlive in a vibrant, giving and bountiful food community. From our top chefs to the

farms and farmstands up and down the Island to your overwhelming supportfor local small shops, restaurants and businesses, Islanders are a unique bunchand deserve your own food and drink awards.Without further adieu, here are the results and winners. We have listed the

top winners on these pages but there are many more who deserve recognitionthat we couldn’t fit in due to space constraints. Pease go online for a completelist of honourable mention winners, regional winners and further surveyresults. Go to www.eatmagazine.ca and follow the links.

The lucky winners of the prize draw are:

The Luxury EmpressWeekend Caryn Clark (Sponsored by Fairmont Hotels & EAT)Mocca Master Thermal Brewer Lon Temereski (Sponsored by CoffeeCrew.com)Deerholme Dinner for Two Joanne Spence (Sponsored by Deerholme Farm)

Most Inspiring Local ChefPeter Zambri (Zambris) (GOLD)Sean Brennan (Brasserie L’Ecole (SILVER)David Mincey (Camilles) (BRONZE)

Top chefs not only ensurethat the food coming offthe stove is first rate butthey inspire youngerchefs to strive for thebest.

HONOURABLE MENTIONSJeff Keenliside (Lucy’s in the Square)George Szaz (Stage)Edward Tuson (The Edge)Cory Pelan (La Piola)Alison Bigg and Jena Stewart(Devour)Go online for more winners

Specialty Food Shop or DeliOttavio Italian Bakery & Delicatessen (GOLD)Choux Choux Charcuterie (SILVER)Charelli's Cheese Shop & Deli (BRONZE)

Islanders love smallbusinesses and supportthem with their wallets.is bunch of expertentrepreneurs see to itthat we are well-stockedwith cheeses, charcuterieand the best ingredients.

HONOURABLE MENTIONSPlenty Epicurean PantryAmbrosio Markets & DeliRed BarnItalian Food ImportMcLean's Specialty FoodsGo online for more winners

Essential Island ExperienceSooke Harbour House (GOLD)Red Fish Blue Fish (SILVER)The Pointe at Wickaninnish (BRONZE)

Can anyone really say what thequintessential Island experiencewould be? Could it be lazilysitting outdoors munching onfresh seafood and taking in therays? Or sitting in a comfydining room on the coastwatching the winter surf crashoutside?Here readers have their say onwhere they found their bestIsland food experience.

HONOURABLE MENTIONSDeep Cove ChaletHastings HouseOak Bay MarinaZanatta Winery VinotecaPoint No PointSoBoAura WaterfrontThe Empress Room

Who Has the Best Chocolate?Chocolaterie Bernard Callebaut (GOLD)Rogers' Chocolates (SILVER)Chocolat (BRONZE)

Appreciation for the ancientfavourite has never been higherand plenty of places oblige withmany local chocolate makersincorporating local ingredientsinto their creations. Yet, there’swork to be done on the fair tradefront.

HONOURABLE MENTIONSPurdy's ChocolatesPlenty Epicurean PantryOrganic FairSpinnakersMarket on YatesHot Chocolates

Who AdvocatesFor Food Issues?David Mincey (ICC) (GOLD)Dr. Sinclair Philips (Slow Food)(SILVER)TIE:Mara Jernigan (Slow Food)/Carolyn Herriot (Garden Path Centre)(BRONZE)


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Best Selection of BC WinesFort Street BC Liquor Store (GOLD)BCWineguys Cadboro Bay Rd. (SILVER)EverythingWine (BRONZE)

If you don’t know by nowthat BC wines are equalto any - you’ve beenliving in a rain barrel.

Finding BC wines hasnever been easier.

HONOURABLE MENTIONSThe Wine BarrelSpinnakers Spirit MerchantsCascadia LiquorHillside LiquorThe Wine Shop at Mattick's Farm

Best Overall Wine StoreFort Street BC Liquor Store (GOLD)TIE: Cascadia / Spinnakers (SILVER)Hillside Liquor (BRONZE)

When it comes to choice ourprivately-owned liquor storesare giving the government agood run for our money. Andthat’s good for all of us. Lookfor great customer service inboth gov’t and private stores.

HONOURABLE MENTIONSCook St. Village LiquorEverything WineThe Strath Ale, Wine & SpiritLiquor PlusBeverly Corners Liquor Store6 Mile Liquor Store

Favourite Beverage CompanyPhillips Brewery (GOLD)Merridale Estate Cidery (SILVER)Sea Cider Farm & Ciderhouse (BRONZE)

HONOURABLE MENTIONSSalt Spring Island AlesDriftwood BrewerySpinnakersVictoria SpiritsTugwell Creek Meadery

HONOURABLE MENTIONSIslandWineriesVenturi-SchulzeAverill Creek VineyardStarling Lane WineryBlue Grouse Estate Winery

Island Owned Coffee ShopsHabit Coffee (GOLD)Caffe Fantastico (SILVER)Discovery Coffee (BRONZE)

Ever tried to find great coffeein Toronto? Vancouver Islandhas one of the highestconcentration of independentcoffee shops brewing highquality, fair-trade and organiccoffee. What are you waitingfor? Take a break and order upan espresso or soy latte.

HONOURABLE MENTIONS2% Jazz CoffeeMoka House CoffeeSerious CoffeeMirage CoffeeThe Black StiltBuon Amici's CoffeeGo online for more winners

Favourite Local FarmMadrona Farm (GOLD)SunWing Tomatoes (SILVER)Mitchell Farms (BRONZE)

At the heart of it all are ourfarms and farmers. Withoutthem we’d have little to eat.ey work hard, often forlittle money. Give it up forthe farms of VancouverIsland and the Gulf Islands!

HONOURABLE MENTIONSFairburn Farm (water buffalo)Cowichan Bay FarmRagley FarmDan's Farm and MarketGo online for more winners

Lifetime Acheivement AwardDavid MinceyA well-know food and wine personality inVictoria for many years, David Mincey hasgone beyond being the chef andrestaurateur behind the successfulCamille’s FineWestcoast Dining on BastionSquare. His extraordinary classes onchocolate at the University of Victoria makehim the resident expert on the subject. Healso gives to the community in other ways.His tenacious support of local farmsthrough the development of a grantprogram to assist farms with infrastructureand as the force behind the start-up of theIsland Chefs Collaborative Farmers Marketon Bastion Square, makes him deserving ofthis award. He has done a tremendousamount for the Island and its food culture.David. We thank-you!

Influential Food Movement/ ProjectICC Bastion Square Farmer Market(GOLD)TLC’s Save Madrona Farm (SILVER)Slow Food Vancouver Island (BRONZE)

Without change there canbe no progress towards abetter life.

ese explemplaryorganizations worktirelessly for the Island’sfood security and deservesupport.

HONOURABLE MENTIONSLifecycles Fruit Tree Project100-Mile DietFood Roots / Pocket MarketsOcean WiseGrain Growing on the IslandLUSH ValleyCommunity GardensSPIN / Backyard Farming

Knowledgeable ServiceSolomon (Solomons) (GOLD)Michael (La Piola) (SILVER)Francis (Zambris) (BRONZE)

HONOURABLE MENTIONSRestaurantsLisa (Cafe Brio)Jeff (Paprika Bistro)Micki (Lucy’s)Brian (SIPS)BarSteve (Stage)Steve (Brasserie L’ecole)Shawn (Clives)Vinnie (Canoe)Hector (Marriott)

At most restaurants and bars serverscome and go - inevitably moving onto somewhere, something else. A fewstay and become very good at theirjobs. And we are very happy whenthat happens.

Here’s a little recognition for all theslams, the weeds, the stiffs, the 86s,the campers and the long hours.

Best Place for Appies& DrinksStageWine Bar (GOLD)Tapa Bar (SILVER)TIE: Veneto /Chateau Victoria(BRONZE)

After the day’s work is doneisn’t it time for a little R&R atyour favourite watering hole?

Take a seat at the bar, raise aglass and toast these top picks.

Hey, kid’s are people too. eyhave a right to take a seat atthe dining table and noshwith the rest of us.

Here’s where to take the littlepeople to out to dine.

ere are manyindividuals,organizations andcommunity leadersworking to promote amore sustainable Islandcuisine.

Here are a few, chosenby readers, that deserveyour recognition.

HONOURABLE MENTIONSCanoeSolomon’sThe MintIrish TimesSpinnakersPescatoresGloBrasserie L’ecole

Killer Kid HangoutsPizzeria Prima Strada (GOLD)White Spot (SILVER)Fifth Street Grill (BRONZE)

HONOURABLE MENTIONSFerrisCanoeMilestonesMoxiesRebar Modern FoodPagliacci'sLucy’s on the SquareNautical NelliesEarl’s

Tea PurveyorsSilk Road (GOLD)Murchie’s (SILVER)Special Teas (BRONZE)

Hot on coffee’s heels, the teaculture on the Island continuesto expand and develop.Restaurants and cafes nowcater to connoisseurs of fineChinese, Taiwan, Indian andJapanese teas.

Tea your time has come.

HONOURABLE MENTIONSVenus Sophia Tea RoomNetkenicTea CenterMela’s Tea RoomThe EmpressWhite Heather

HONOURABLE MENTIONSLee Fuge (Foodroots)Ken Heuston (chef, Past President ICC)Gary Hynes (EAT Magazine)Tina Fraser Baynes (organic farmer)Peter Zambri (chef )Brent Petkau (oyster grower)Bill Jones (Canadian Chefs Congress)Dan Jason (seed saver)Lana Popham (MLA for Saanich South)Lyle Young (poultry farmer)

Event that InspiredFeast of Fields (GOLD)Defending Our Backyard (SILVER)Great Canadian Beer Festival (BRONZE)

HONOURABLE MENTIONSActivitiesMadrona Chef SurvivalSpanish Day at OttavioDine AroundTasting at Sea Cider

HONOURABLE MENTIONSFestivalsTasteArt of the CocktailVictoria Tea FestivalTofino Food &Wine Fest

HONOURABLE MENTIONSCooking ClassesHeidi Fink Cooking ClassesFrench Mint,Terralicious

We are often defined by what wedo. If that’s true we are an activelot busily attending food andwine festivals, improvingourselves at school and justgetting out there and going to allthe tastings, dinners and eventsthat are in seemingly endlesssupply on the Island.

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D ays before our first cultural centre food night, friends and I had beendiscussing the best places to find authentic food in Victoria. Theage-old adage came up in the conversation: follow the home crowd.Want good Italian? Go where the Italians eat. Same thing works forgreat Chinese, Polish, Mexican and every other country that has ever

served food. With that in mind we decided to take on the intriguing “Schnitzel Night,”which happens the first Thursday of every month in James Bay at the German CanadianCulture Society (a.k.a The Edelweiss Club, a.k.a The German Club). What follows is an ac-count of that night. Words of advice: get there early. Doors at 5:30 p.m.

5:30 p.m. We arrive five minutes late and 91st in line. We’re asked to pay $12.50 in cash,which will get us a ticket we can trade in for a plate of the famous schnitzel. We then followthe herd moving into the dining hall, where we’re left to wait at a large round table as num-bers are called and people line up to get fed.In the dining hall, which is reminiscent of a large legion/bingo hall, a white-haired accor-

dion player is on stage quietly turning out tunes like “Rock Around the Clock,” lightlyswaying from foot to foot to keep time. Behind him is a hand-painted facade of a chateaunestled alongside a river at the bottom of a valley in the German Alps. Barrels are scat-tered about the room and the walls are adorned with plaques that display mini-histories;from one of them I learn that in the early 1980s, Matildhe Kopplin was a force to be reck-oned with in a sport called discing.

5:48 p.m. We’ve been summoned through a scratchy loudspeaker to join the queue andhave discovered that the line itself is a model of efficiency. Most diners know the drill, andeven though I’m learning as I go, the order of business is easy to follow: “Ticket first, foodsecond.” No one shoves or jumps ahead, except for one older woman who has obviousweight around here that no one appears ready to take on. I do everything I can to avoid hereye as she steps directly in front of me, daring me to challenge her privilege. I just let ithappen as the line shuffles along the stainless steel pass bar in sideways half-steps anddo as I’m told.

5:53 p.m. It’s a little intimidating, this line-up. Two people away from my turn, which willmean I’ll be in the full view of Rosella, the head caterer, I’m suddenly aware that I have noidea what comes next. My schnitzel skills are naught so I lean in to listen as the others gettheir plates.

5:55 p.m. I identify that a request for “A little of everything” appears to be the most popu-lar choice.

5:56 p.m. Fully weighted with meal and utensils, I head back to our table to sit with mymeal, fascinated by its shape. Unaccustomed to schnitzel, I find that other than a peculiarisland shooting off the northeast corner, mine actually resembles Germany. I don’t com-ment on this to my dinner mates, but do take stock of what countries they have. Tracy, mypregnant friend, has one that looks like Russia. Everyone else appears to have Africancountries. The other noticeable physical quality that all the schnitzels at the table sharewith mine is that they are astoundingly large, like biggish personal pizzas. Also, everythingis beige. Even the purple cabbage has absorbed some of the subdued hue so prevalentamong breaded items.Now, for the uninitiated, the dynamics of schnitzel appear pretty straightforward. The

meat can range from veal to chicken to pork to just about anything as long as it’s squish-able (tonight it is pork). To prepare, the chef takes the selected protein, gently places it ona chopping block and then beats the living daylights out of it with a mallet until it looks en-tirely unlike any animal you’ve ever seen. The next step is to coat it in egg and flour andbreadcrumbs. When that’s all finished, Chef heats a skillet, fries the lot in butter, and voila,schnitzel.Sound easy? Well, it’s not. Like mastery in anything, the relative appearance of ease is

deceiving. There are variables at hand that only a true talent nurtured over the years canever hope to fully understand (which is why the best schnitzelers are often the elderly).Each has its own thickness, individual girth and specific amount of breadcrumbs. The heatdistribution, too, is decidedly different depending on its shape; and conditional to the pro-

tein, the mood of the chef at that moment the meat hits the pan and the number of piecesto be schnitzeled during the evening, an infinite number of bad outcomes are possible. Itall adds up to make Schnitzel Night a hell of a risky experience since, as would be ex-pected, there are no other options on the menu.

6:24 p.m.Mono-coloured cuisine is daunting, but somehow the meal is exactly appropri-ate for winter weather. And, at the risk of sounding influenced, I submit to you thatRosella, although not elderly per se, has that one-in-a-bunch skill that makes the schnitzeltaste breathtakingly authentic in a grandmotherly way. Topped off with her sauerkraut,cabbage, mashed potatoes and gravy, the entire thing makes me feel like a little kid fromfables who eats too much at dinner then sneaks away to fall dead asleep by the fire beforebeing carried away to bed. It’s a cute image, but two hours from now, at 8:30 p.m., I’ll becalling that same feeling a food coma and my body will be catatonic and worried, and, justa little bit confused. It will probably be the earliest I’ve been to bed since I was eleven.

6:40 p.m. I should stop eating, but somehow I feel that in order to get the full experience Ihave to try the dessert. It’s an apple sponge, something that members get for free. I buckup the $2.75 it costs for visitors and bring it back to my sweating, distended friends whothrow me evil eyes as I plop it down in the middle of the table. It’s gone in minutes and wewaddle out of the German Canadian Cultural Society full beyond imagination.

6:53 p.m.My brain is shutting down because it is dark and I’m in the backseat of myfriend’s car and my entire internal system is occupied with digesting Germany-shaped fooditems. I hardly notice the drive home, but when I eventually do fumble out of their car, I’mmomentarily upset that they don’t offer to carry me upstairs. I’m over it by the time I col-lapse on the sofa, which is where I will be for the next month repairing and preparing to doit all over again.

THESCHNITZELDIARYA journalist’s journey into cultural centre cuisine.By Adrien Sala

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GOING WITH THE GRAIN — by Holland Gidney

BACKYARD BREAD SPRThe final article in EAT’s three-part series on B.C.’s grain-aissance.

W hen it comes to grain, it’s possible to shrink your 100-Mile Diet to 100 metres ifyou’re willing to get your hands dirty: a few seeds and a bit of land is all it takesto grow a loaf of bread. And wheat’s much less fussy than tomatoes.

“If you can grow grass, you can grow grain,” proclaims the Island Grains project website.In fact, as participants in what turned out to be Vancouver Island’s largest grain-growing trialthis year (myself included) discovered, grain might just be easier to grow than grass—espe-cially when you don’t have to supply the land or prepare it for planting.Inspired in part by a second-hand copy of homesteading guru Gene Logsdon’s 1977 book

Small-Scale Grain Raising, Brock McLeod and HeatherWalker decided to invite 100 would-befarmers to plant 51 plots of grain at their Vancouver Island farm last April.The two Duncan farmers harvested small amounts of grain in 2008 and had already planted

rye as a cover crop in the fall of 2009 when they were listening to Jon Steinman’sDeconstructing Dinner radio show last fall and heard how excited participants in the Koote-nay Grain CSA were to visit the three Creston Valley farms where their grain was being grown.It convinced them to start what might be best described as a grain-growing club at theirMakaria Farm on Bench Road near Cowichan Station, with the goal of getting people back intouch with where grains come from and demonstrate how easy they are to grow.Over the course of the spring and summer, we “grainies” learned about seed selection,

planting timing and techniques, pests, weeding, harvesting, threshing, and even cooking withwhole grains. The knowledge we collected from the experience was as valuable as the grainwe all harvested at the end of August, and it proved that Dan Jason of Salt Spring Seeds wasright: grains are easier than just about anything else you could grow.“Some people are intimidated because they think it can only be done by industrial agri-

culture,” he says. But even the hands-off, no-weeding, no-watering approach that manygrainies adopted still yielded good grain.And it works equally well in backyards, as Claudia and Darren Copley found when they

planted grain for the second year in a row in their Saanich garden.“Growing it is a cinch,” says Claudia who describes their process of planting oats, barley and

three kinds of wheat as “prepare ground, sow, walk away.” Their intention was to producesteel-cut oats for breakfast, whole-grain barley for stews, and wheat flour for bread. How-ever, freeing the oats from their hulls was a “nightmare.” It may be easy to grow grain, butwhere small-scale producers like the Copleys often run into trouble is after they harvest itbecause small-scale equipment is lacking in North America.For Islands Grains’ harvest day on August 24, Walker and McLeod had a collection of sick-

les, scythes and scissors on hand, and Dan Jason, who’s been growing grain since 1986,brought along his homemade threshing box for people to try. There was even the option ofhaving the grain milled into flour by Bruce Stewart of True Grain Bread.Having to use makeshift harvest tools and not having access to a combine are two of the

most common challenges to grain growers Chris Hergesheimer identified during his master’sthesis research. Or as he put it: “Equipment andmachinery sharing, and the lack of adequate‘post-harvest infrastructure’ (cleaning, storage, milling facilities).”Except in the Peace River District, which has several seed-cleaning co-operatives, and the

North Okanagan, which has at least one milling co-operative, there is a serious lack of post-harvest infrastructure for anyone wanting to process more than a small amount of grain forpersonal consumption. But what small-scale grain growers lack in equipment and infra-structure, they make up for in ingenuity.When asked to supply a local chef with two pounds of rye for an event,Walker andMcLeod

“harvested with scissors and threshed with a shoe.” On Salt Spring Island, Linda Quiring saysthe half-dozen folks who grew grain there this year all got together one afternoon to get theirwheat threshed communally by “the only combine on the Island.” Dirk Keller of QualicumBeach’s Sloping Hill Farm loaded his half-acre wheat harvest into two livestock trailers forthreshing by combine-owner Wayne Smith in Port Alberni.SinceWalker is optimistic that a good number of Island Grains participants will grow grain

again, she suggests an equipment co-opmay be the “logical next step.” Hergesheimer agrees,but he doesn’t believe small-scale grain production will ever become the norm. “But it will be-come a more prominent method in this refashioning of our relationship to grain, flour andbread,” he says. “We have been all about scaling up production, scaling up our machinery,scaling up our ‘commodities.’ In a sense, the backyard plots or the small CSA farms help usscale down again.”If we all scale down and start paying attention to the origin of the grains we consume, and

maybe even taking responsibility for growing them ourselves, small-scale grain productionmay just become the next trend in local eating—and you can’t beat the taste of that.“Local grains taste different,” says Hergesheimer. “They taste like success, they taste like

optimism. They taste like revolution.”

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GET FRESH COOKING WITH THE SEASONS — by Sylvia Weinstock

This delectable fragrant stew can be varied by adding cubes of cooked lamb near theend of cooking. Another idea is to add chunks of raw red snapper to the pot near the endof cooking until the pieces are cooked through. Use vegetable broth instead of chickenbroth for a vegetarian stew. Vary the vegetables according to the seasons and add yourfavourite veggies to the dish. Roasting some of the vegetables deepens and sweetens theirflavours. To make it less spicy, remove the seeds from the chilies, or use only one chilewith the seeds removed.

Preheat the oven to 375 F. In a bowl, toss carrots, potatoes, zucchini and red peppers inolive oil. Place on a baking tray and roast for 20 minutes until veggies are slightly brown.Remove and set aside.In a heavy-bottomed stainless steel soup pot, dry roast cinnamon, cardamom and clovesover medium heat for 2 minutes until are fragrant. Add butter, chilies, bay leaf, ginger andonions and stir-fry until the onions are translucent. Add roasted vegetables, and stir andcook over medium heat for 5 minutes. Add salt, black pepper, turmeric, lime leaves, greenbeans, asparagus, tomatoes and chicken broth. Cover and cook until vegetables are ten-der (Add more broth if necessary). Add coconut milk, cooked lentils and mustard seeds.Simmer for 5 minutes.

Spicy Roasted Vegetable Stew

2 carrots, chopped1 medium red potato, chopped in bite-sizechunks2 medium zucchinis, chopped in bite-sizechunks1 red bell pepper, chopped in bite-size chunks1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil2 whole cloves1/3 of a cinnamon stick2 green cardamom pods, bruised2 tablespoons of butter1 or 2 jalapeno chile peppers, minced (with orwithout seeds, to taste)

1 bay leaf2 inches fresh gingerroot, peeled andminced1 medium onion, choppedSalt and freshly ground black pepper to taste1/2 teaspoon turmeric3 lime leaves1/2 cup green beans, cut in 2-inch pieces6 asparagus spears, cut in 2-inch pieces2 medium tomatoes, chopped1/2 cup chicken broth1/2 cup coconut milk1/2 cup cooked lentils1/2 teaspoon mustard seeds

Fiddleheads. The peak season for fresh fiddleheads is April to July. Their spring freshflavour hints of asparagus, green beans, okra, artichokes and mushrooms. Trim andboil them, and toss them in melted butter or olive oil and lemon juice or drizzle themwith vinaigrette.

Asparagus. Spear some asparagus during their peak season, from March to May.

Artichokes.March is the peak season for California artichokes.

Dandelion Greens. Instead of being vexed by the dandelions sprouting in your lawn,eat their leaves when they are young and tender. These detoxifying greens can be eatenraw in salads, or briefly blanched, steamed or sautéed like spinach.

Fava Beans. Fresh fava beans are only available from April through June, from Califor-nia or local farms.

Morels. These honeycombed mushrooms can be found from March to July. They havea nutty, smoky, intensely earthy flavour.

Gigantic Papayas. Foot-long Mexican papayas are juicy and flavourful. They are avail-able in March.Pineapples. You can buy pineapples year-round, but they are especially sweet and juicyduring their peak season from March to June.

Cherry Rhubarb. The season for fresh cherry rhubarb starts now and lasts until June.

Perennial Garden Herbs. Tarragon, chives and other perennial herbs are reawaken-ing in the garden.

Citrus Fruit. The peak season for blood oranges, grapefruit, oranges, kumquats andtangelos ends in mid-April.


3189 Quadra St. Next to the Italian

Bakery

Call for reservations: 388-4517

[email protected]

LaRistorante

iola

Cucina Tradizionale Gastronomia Locale

The Best of Italy and Vancouver Island

Pam Durkin reviews some of the best natural foodblogs on the Web.Searching for a great recipe for tonight’sdinner? Rather than relying on your over-perused cookbooks, why not turn to one ofthe Web’s many food blogs for inspiration?While food blogs aren’t exactly new, eas-ier-to- use templates and the popular filmJulie and Julia (based on one woman’s blog-ging experience) have helped their num-bers swell substantially in the past twoyears. Amid this plethora are some veryuseful blogs for health-conscious foodiesseeking taste and nutrition. And I’m de-lighted to report that I’ve found some ex-cellent ones created right here in B.C.—let’stake a look.

Guiltykitchen.comAuthored by Elizabeth Nyland,a 26-year-old stay-at-homemom from Victoria with afood industry background,this blog features a vibrantmix of healthy, inventive din-ner recipes and wholesome, al-though rich, desserts. Nylandunabashedly admits to loving dessertsbut strives for balance in her life and blogby creating healthy mains that featurelocal, seasonal produce. Some recipe high-lights include crab and shrimp cakes withlemon aioli, cold soba salad, caramel andapple cream tart and brown butter wholewheat blueberry muffins. Nyland’s writingstyle is endearing and her passion for foodinfectious. The photography is both pro-fessional and seductive. Visit this blog andI’m sure you will agree—this young womanhas a cookbook deal in her future!

Chowtimes.comChowtimes started as an “experiment” in2006 for Ben and Suanne, a couple fromRichmond, B.C., with no formal training inthe food industry. Stay-at-home momSuanne attends the Richmond CommunityKitchen and generates the recipes for theblog. Ben, a self -proclaimed foodie, is re-sponsible for the site’s discerning restau-rant reviews and travel diaries. Accordingto Ben, “delicious diversity” is the theme ofthis blog, and it’s readily apparent in the in-triguing blend of ethnic recipes presented.And the good news—healthy recipe op-tions are offered for vegetarians and meateaters alike. The Tuscan kale salad, quinoa-stuffed peppers and the Moroccan chickenare a few samples. Easy to navigate andvery informative, this site belies the cou-ple’s “amateur” status.

GourmetFury.comVancouver native Melody Fury, a self-pro-fessed food writer/food-photographer/en-trepreneur is the author of this appealingblog. Clearly a “renaissance” foodie, Furywrites with authority and shares beautifulphotos of her recipes and culinary excur-sions. I loved her post from Paris—“Classi-cal Art vs. Charcuterie Art.” I’m also a fan ofthe site’s “Beet ’n Squash You” feature—amonthly challenge between fellow bloggersand readers to see who can come up withthe best recipe highlighting a specific veg-etable. Fury’s own recipes tend to combine

a healthy blend of Asian and WestCoast Cuisine, and many of hercreations are inspired by Tradi-tional Chinese Medicine DietTherapy. Her summer pa-paya and halibut soup andwarm beet and scallopsalad with crab apple relishare perfect examples of her

light, healthy approach todining.

Sillynutritionundergrad.wordpress.comFeaturing both nutritional information anddelicious whole food recipes, this blog isthe brainchild of a UBC dietetics undergradnamed Stephanie. The articles present thelatest nutritional news in layman’s termsand the recipes range from the simple tothe delectable. Try her oatmeal with tofu,scallions and edamame and you’ll neverthink of the grain as a boring staple again.

101cookbooks.comOK, so this blog isn’t local—but it is, in myopinion, the best natural food blog on theWeb. Created by San Francisco-based pho-tographer and food writer Heidi Swanson,this blog has garnered a lot of internationalpress and is a favourite of health-consciousfoodies worldwide. Swanson’s focus is onnatural, whole-food vegetarian recipes ei-ther culled from her personal collection ofmore than 100 cookbooks or created byherself or one of her “foodie” friends. Sheoffers “basic techniques” for cooking neo-phytes and provides a library of mouth-wa-tering recipes that will leave you ponderinghow something so delectable can be goodfor you. I can personally vouch for the sim-ply delightful carrot, dill and white beansalad and the amazing black bean brown-ies. The latter, a dense, fudge-texturedpiece of heaven, will have you convincedSwanson is an alchemist.

GOOD FOR YOU — by Pam Durkin

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Matt Rissling The Marina Restaurant 250.598.8555I would take a trip to northern Europe, to explore some roots in Scandinavia. After all,you can never have enough lutefisk and aquavit! It seems like all coastal people have,out of necessity, some sort of dried or preserved fish, and the coast we currently liveon is no different.

Zoe O'DohertyI would love to go to Japan. The Japanese take food very seriously, and their culinarytraditions and techniques are quite different from the European methods most of uslearn in cooking school. The aesthetic side of Japanese food is also very appealing. I’mamazed by how many distinct styles of cuisine exist in one relatively small country.

Ben Peterson Heron Rock Bistro 250.383.1545Montreal. I Have been dreaming about it for years and am very anxious to experienceall the recommendations for myself. Oh yeah … and Havanna as well!

Trish Dixon Breakers Deli 250.725.2558I'm not sure a month would be enough time, but Italy is my first choice for sure. Thebasic simplicity of the foods, the farms and hereditary techniques still used todayappeal to me. Italy is about everything fresh and homegrown, minimalist with bigflavour.What I love most about Italy is the feeling that every meal is prepared with nu-merous family members and enjoyed by all friends. Large meals with everyone sittingaround together enjoying! Oh... also the wine!

Alberto Pozzolo Italian Bakery 250-388-4557As strange as it may sound I would like to explore the cuisine of Romania. This oldItalian territory would likely reveal clues on ancient Roman dishes as well as influencesfrom the Far and Middle East. It is not a region much discussed and I find thisappealing from a learning perspective.

Cory Pelan La Piola 250.388.4517Oaxaca. For the sheer diversity of the regional cuisine and the immense complexity ofthe flavours. For the chocolate, the mole, the art, the mezcal, the people and the sun.Maybe next winter.

Mara Jernigan Fairburn Farm 250.746.4637If I had a month and no financial constraints I would go to Japan. I have never beenthere, but I know food is such an important and highly ritualized part of Japaneseculture, it is a place I'd like to have a big budget to explore. From the street food, toKaiseki to visiting farms, I'd like to have an English speaking Japanese guide and do itall! I am just afraid amonth would not be enough! However, on the other hand, if some-one wanted to explore the culture and cuisine in Italy, they should go to Slow Food'sTerra Madre and Salone del Gusto 2010 and then come on one of my culinary tours inItaly this fall!

Garrett Schack Vista 18 250.382.9258I would spend time in the great white north. I believe the art of bannock making andwhale butchery is one that could be lost if someone doesn't take the time to submergethemselves in the cultures and rituals of our hidden northern treasure. I can just imag-ine cooking arctic cod over a lamp fueled by seal blubber (only after one days marchfrom the fishing site of course) while the northern lights illuminate the sky. For now atleast I must succum to my usual diet of Qallunaat food until I can pursue my true call-ing as a northern explorer. Dare to dream!

CHEF’S TALK — by Ceara Lornie

If you had amonth to explore an area, to immerseyourself in the culture and cuisine, where wouldyou go?

Chefs NewsBrad Horen and Patrick Gayler of Laurel Point Inn have earned spots on Culinary TeamCanada. Horen will captain the team at the 2011 World Cup in Luxembourg and the 2012World Culinary Olympics in Germany.

The 2010 Canadian Chefs Congress will take place at Providence Farm near Duncan inthe Cowichan Valley September 11 & 12. See page 5 of this issue for more informationand to delegate registration information.


LOCAL FOOD HERO — by Kathryn Kusyszyn COOK

Engage anyone on Southern Vancouver Island in conversation about organic farming andfairly soon the nameMary Alice Johnson comes up.Whether on the farm, in the classroomor in the community, Mary Alice is known for inspiring people to grow food. Her philosophy:Why put poison on your food when there’s no need?Raised on a self-sufficiency farm with a cow, pigs and chickens, Mary Alice took good

food for granted. Her father hunted while her mother hung chickens on the clothesline andslaughtered them for Sunday dinner. She loved gardening as a child and that love contin-ued into adulthood. In 1986, she and her husband, Jan, bought farmland just west of thetown of Sooke. The house was falling down and the land so covered in broom it took threeyears to clear, but after the first season of farming she was hooked. Sitting in the autumnsun shelling scarlet runner beans she decided she wanted to farm full-time regardless ofthe income.Twenty years later, ALM Organic Farm supplies restaurants, a box program, twomarkets

plus a seed company. Produce includes fruit, heritage vegetables, eggs, grains, herbs,seeds and pigs. Community support for the produce is strong: the box program has a wait-ing list and seed sales grow by 30 percent each year. These successes belie the wageearned for the long hours put in by Mary Alice, her business partner Marika Nagasaka,plus apprentices and volunteers. However, the benefits of fresh organic food and qualityof life are priceless and have inspired Mary Alice’s devotion to encouraging new farmers.Seventeen years running, her two courses on organic farming at Camosun College, co-

taught with Haliburton Community Farmmanager Tina Fraser Baynes, are hugely popular.Some classes take place at ALM Farm as do the continuing education courses Mary Aliceand her partners lead.She also runs a national farm apprenticeship program called Stewards of Irreplaceable

Lands (S.O.I.L.). This year, S.O.I.L. received 200 applications and 90 farms are participat-ing. Another project is the 15-year-old Linking Land and Future Farmers. Currently it’s trans-forming into a web-based resource for new farmers. And as president of the Sooke RegionFood CHI Society, Mary Alice spearheads the FarmMentorship Program (among others). Inher words, she is “really good at getting people involved.”Working directly on the policy front, she sits on the Juan de Fuca Economic Development

Commission and Juan de Fuca Agricultural Commission. While the JDF Agricultural AreaPlan is stalled until funds appear, Mary Alice focuses elsewhere. Her presentations at thesplit tax assessment hearings, by request of MLA Lana Popham, contributed to some ben-eficial changes. And last year, ALM Farm hosted a walkabout with local politicians to illus-trate how regulations need altering to promote rather than restrict food production. Thesepoliticians are now supporting farming in new ways and one councillor has become a box-program participant.This shift is a reflection of the growing numbers of people whowant quality local food and

are making the effort to provide it. “There’s a real spark in Sooke, but we have a long wayto go,” she says, citing research by Dr. Aleck Ostry of UBC that shows Sooke is at the bot-tom of the list for food security on the Island. When we spoke, she was excited aboutSooke’s first “Seedy Saturday” (which took place February 27). Seeds and seedlings wereavailable and Mary Alice planned to do what she does best: inspire people to grow food.With all the educational and community activities, when is there time to farm? “I love it,”she laughs. “Someone recently said, ‘Everyone needs a farmer.’ I agree, and I’m happy tobe one.” ALM Organic Farm, 3680 Otter Point Road, Sooke, BC

MARY ALICE JOHNSON MA

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“It’s a bit like amarriage,” Cory Pelan explainsas he gently pushes his 30-year-old pastamaker into place. “I try to listen to what it’stelling me … sometimes I ignore it …” Chucklesgo around the crowd watching the chef andowner of Victoria’s La Piola interact with his Ital-ian-made Bottene Marano pasta machine.Thanks to this event, organized by Slow Food inpartnership with La Piola, Untamed Feast andThe Tuscan Kitchen, a group of keen studentshave the privilege of stepping into Pelan’skitchen to learn how to make fresh pasta andsauce from a pro. Carefully removing the partsto explain how the machine works, he caressesthe brass dies for making different pasta shapes,describing the softness of the metal and re-membering a former employee who dropped thespaghetti die, denting it so badly it had to be re-paired before it could be used again. “He boughtme a beer that night,” he tells us with a smile.

Pelan demonstrates the simplicity of the machine, with few parts and only two settings;one to mix and one to extrude. This prompts another memory: a separate incident wherea staff member had it on the wrong setting when he was supposed to be mixing. The flourshot out the front of the machine, and the intense pressure from the extruder resulted ina hard, glass-like substance that took half an hour to hammer out of the shaft. It is obvi-ous that these two have a strong history. It’s no wonder then that the resulting pasta tastesso good. Extraordinarily good. We’ve watched as the chef mixed his flours (a blend ofsemolina, bread and pastry flours) with fresh eggs and then peeked in to check the texture.And of course, listening to his machine, he added a little water to the dough. He pausedto elucidate the importance of finding a happy medium between a dough that is too dry,resulting in a brittle pasta, and a dough that is too wet, resulting in a pasta that has no tex-ture and won’t hold the sauce. The right consistency should have clumps roughly the sizeof hazelnuts, he instructs us. When the spaghetti begins to come out of the machine, wesee that he’s nailed it. The strands show evidence of having the grain pulled back slightlyas it made its exit, producing the texture that is crucial for the pasta to absorb the sauce.And we want it to absorb the sauce—a thick pomodoro that Pelan has taught us how to

make, offering little nuggets of experience (“oregano: if you think you’ve got enough, addmore”) as he explained the method. As with the pasta, the key to the sauce is simplicity.A few quality ingredients; extra virgin olive oil, garlic, onion, whole plum tomatoes, bayleaves and herbs, attentively prepared, will achieve the best results. Once the saucereaches the point where it needs to sit and simmer, the pot is magically replaced with onethat was started earlier in the day. We admire the result of three to four hours simmering:the sauce has thickened significantly and achieved a deepened colour.Now it’s Eric Whitehead’s turn to teach. The owner of Untamed Feast Wild Mushroom

Products is here to show us how tomake his favourite sauce showcasing his dried morels.Alberto Pizzolo, owner of the Italian Bakery, which is right next door, is on hand as well. Hereminisces about a foraging adventure he accompaniedWhitehead on last year, stressinghow important it is for him to know where the ingredients he is using come from, and howthey are harvested. Whitehead concocts a creamy, woodsy sauce (check the recipe box ateatmagazine.ca for this recipe) before our eyes, and our stomachs begin to rumble. Thisis when Pelan serves up a first sample of spaghetti al pomodoro with generous servingsof freshly grated Parmesan on top. The kitchen falls silent, with the exception of some au-dible groans of delight.It is time to move into the dining room for another demo, this one from Mauro Schelini,

who, with his wife, Gerri, owns the Tuscan Kitchen. Their beautiful shop bringsmajolica, finetableware, linens and specialty food items to downtown Victoria. Schelini is here to tell usabout home pasta makers, as well as tortellini molds and special rolling pins for attainingthe required thickness of various pastas. He shows us the Imperia model he uses in his ownkitchen, and people take turns rolling out sheets of lasagna or fettuccini.I sneak back to the kitchen to try the spaghetti with morel sauce and overhear a woman

requesting that Cory Pelan sell her the remaining unused fresh pasta sitting by his ma-chine. Someone else is commenting that “it will be hard to go back to dried pasta aftertoday.” I think tomyself that Slow Food has done it again: another winning event, a few newrecipes and a fresh batch of converts. Ristorante La Piola, 3189 Quadra Street, Victoria, BC

The tasty art of fresh pasta (and sauce) making at La Piola.d farmers

Chef Cory Pelan plates his pasta dish


RESTAURANT REPORTER: VICTORIA

EAT—

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Victoria weekend brunches and lunchesgenerally require a modicum of lining up orpremeditated reservations. What a delight tospend the same amount of time I would havespent standing, legs on a slow and steady numb,driving and drinking in the pastoral scenery ofBrentwood Bay to explore Bistro Caché.Not so “hidden”, Bistro Caché is nestled in the heart of Brentwood Bay’s main junction.

Inside, popular French singer Serge Gainsbourg crooned as we perused the quiet restau-rant and ordered glasses of wine, setting the stage for a long, relaxing lunch.The space is wonderful. Large rustic paintings and an upstairs loft give the room spa-

ciousness beyond its size and I felt like I was in a small welcoming country house, not partof a building. The patio would be ideal for a large lunch or dinner celebration, and thegrassy lot behind reinforces that you are not in the city, you are dining in the country.Bistro Caché aptly bills itself as “Classically Inspired BC Cuisine”, which I’m tempted to

edit to French/Vancouver Island Cuisine because of themenu’s pride in including a thought-ful sidebar listing the local growers and suppliers.For starters we chose the warm sunchoke salad (with bacon, shallots, tomato puree,

thyme and salad greens) and the bistro frites (with parsley, shallots, truffle oil and pecorinocheese). The tomato in the salad was strong which tended to reduce subtlety in the salad,both visually and taste-wise, but the earthiness and crunch of the sunchokes still man-aged to stand-up to the tomato. The frites, made from bintje potatoes from nearbySpringcrest Farm, were hot, delicious and crispy—everything youmight hope for in a bistrofrite.After going back and forth we settled on the Crêpe with ham, mushrooms and sauce

Mornay (with cheese) and relaxed a little deeper into the slow-paced afternoon. The ex-quisite crêpe dish showed deft the hand in the kitchenmaking this delicate, featherweightclass of pancake dishes from the Brittany region of France a very satisfying lunch.On another date our editor returned for dinner.At dinner, the room becomes more intimate with lit votive candles and soft, romantic

music—all conducive to the restaurant’s leitmotif, which seems to be relax, savour andlinger. We start with a bottle of Phillips Slipstream Cream Ale and a glass of Lillet, an aper-itif meant to stimulate the appetite. To encourage diners to linger over their pre-prandialdrinks, Caché offers a menu of hors d’oeuvre (think French tapas) of little dishes like wildchanterelles mushrooms, pickled eggplant, escargot, sautéed chard, olives or sausage.The olive selection was varied and of high quality and the wilted chard an appreciatedtouch of fresh green.Skipping the appetizer course we went straight to the mains and ordered the Bratwürst

and the Steak Frites. The solo sausage came with a rösti potato pancake that was lackinga little in crispness and a half cup of tangy sauerkraut and a bit of Dijon - the ideal foil fora rich pork dish. The bratwürst was fresh, fine-grained and had been lightened by the ad-dition of bread crumbs. The dish was enjoyed for being toothsome and satisfying and notoverly heavy.My flat iron steak arrived cooked medium rare as ordered, sliced and piled on top of a

biggish pile of the aforementioned bistro frites. Expecting a piece of beef with plenty ofchew I was pleasantly surprised to find it tender yet still full of flavour. Although I love saltdearly the steak was a touch over-seasoned. Happy, I chomped through one of my favouritego-too comfort foods and I would have it again.Dessert was a blackboard special of Bananas Foster. Due for a comeback, this retro clas-

sic didn’t disappoint and was a turbo-charged confection of butter, brown sugar, cinna-mon, rum, vanilla ice cream and of course, sliced bananas. Did I mention butter?After dinner I waddled out to the car and drove home to a deep sleep of sugar plum fairies

dancing in my head.

Crêpe with ham, mushroomsand sauce Mornay

Chef de Cuisine Matt Thompson

Bistro Cache | 7120West SaanichRoad, Brentwood Bay | 652-5044By Gillie Easdon and Gary Hynes

Gen

LaplanteG

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For reservations: 250.655.9700 • www.sidneypier.com

early bird dinner specials

fresh flavours, casual comfort, genuine service

5pm - 6pm Monday to Friday $15.95

Monday - Oceanwise ‘Catch of the Day’Tuesday - Cowichan Valley ChickenWednesday - Flat Iron Steak Thursday - Curry of the DayFriday - Chef’s Choice

ORIA

EATING WELL FOR LESS—by Elizabeth Smyth

RebeccaW

ellmam

Al-Sultan Restaurant | 1813 Douglas St, | 250.590.4044

Anyone I know who’s lived in Montreal shares acraving beyond bagels: shawarma. This Middle East-ern sandwich is ubiquitous inMontreal, yet a rarer findhere. Al-Sultan Restaurant meets my shawarma need.The shaved beef is seasoned with a symphony ofspices, including cumin, black pepper, cinnamon, andginger. It is then stuffed into a soft pita along with gar-licky tahini sauce, lettuce, pickles, onion, and tomato.In a great shawarma, the sauce and tomato juice oozeout onto your hand and cheek: this one meets the cri-terion. At $6.99, it’s probably one of the main reasonsthis restaurant has become the hangout for interna-tional students from the Arab nations. It definitely hasa student vibe, which is a nice way of saying barrendécor, but hey, who cares if you’re just grabbing ashawarma.Other noteworthy dishes on the menu are the lentil

soup, which is rich and creamy with a hint of lemon,and, for sheer volume, the beef kebab platter that canfeed two, since it consists of three 8-inch kebabs, amound of rice, and a large side of hummus. That all

comes to $14.99. The desserts are reasonably priced at $3.49. One that was new tomewasthe Basbousa, which is a mixture of semolina, coconut, and almonds covered in syrup,reminiscent of a macaroon. At Al-Sultan, your greeting will be warm and the servicehelpful.

Ocean Island Café Lounge,791 Pandora Ave, | 250.385.1784

And now for rock bottom prices. The OceanIsland Café Lounge at the backpackers’ innby the same name has a tiny little cafétucked in on themain floor. Themenu is sim-ple: salads are $2.75 or $5.75, sandwichesand burgers are $5.75, and items under theheading “International Favourites” are$5.75. After 10 pm, most of these items area dollar less, so now we’re looking at under$5. I tried a few items, and will advise youwhere to focus your attention.I was very pleasantly surprised by the

Grilled Chicken Panini. I say surprised be-cause a panini is one of those things thateveryone thinks they can dowhen it actually

requires skill. I’ve had plenty of disappointing paninis that are not warm in the middle orhave a poor ratio of bread to stuffing. But voila! This Panini is big, fat, hearty, and basic, butthe fillings are all warm and the sundried tomato pesto properly accents the chicken andcheese. There’s even a generous side of a simple salad to make it all a balanced meal. Thedressing is probably Kraft, but remember, we’re looking at a hearty meal here for under$6, and under $5 late at night.Under “International Favourites,” I’d target the Moroccan Stew with Couscous, which

has chunks of sweet potato, carrots, and zucchini along with chick peas. They could pullback on the cinnamon a bit, but it’s overall decent. And the Southwest Chili impressed mebecause given the price point, I expected a big reliance on cheap red kidney beans, but itwas in fact full of beef with just a few beans. It was your basic potluck fare at a fair price.Now, what you’ll get along with rock bottom is raucous. This is a hostel, so you’re sittingon bar stools or rickety chairs, there’s loud music in the background, and young travelershaving animated, multilingual conversations. Of course! That’s what it’s supposed to be,but you need to know that this is a place to grab a cheap sandwich, not to propose to yourloved one. It’s also a place to bring your kid for lunch between downtown errands, becauseyou won’t spend a lot of money, and the staff are happy to cut stuff up and bring an extraplate.

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The Sticky Wicket & The Clubhouse at The Strathcona Hotel919 Douglas Street Victoria BC 250.383.7137

www.strathconahotel.com www.dontmissout.ca

Featuring a three course menu every night $20

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ESUOHBU

KatieZdybel

T hough I have travelled, and sometimes lived, in such far-flung and aestheticallyblessed places as California, Paris, the Yukon, Tuscany and Costa Rica, I was notprepared for the wild and stunning beauty of Cortes Island. By the time I’d made

my way from Victoria to Campbell River, Campbell River to Quadra Island, and Quadra toCortes, I felt as though I had traversed into a completely different nation, even a differenttime.The island, smelling of cedar, salt and a pure, unadulterated lack of pollution, gave the

immediate impression of being one sprawling, uninhibited garden. Every inch of Cortesseems to be covered in greens, pinks, oranges and bursts of yellow with the piercing pea-cock blue of the ocean always in sight. The abundant greenery both towers above you, inthe form of giant Douglas firs, and below you in the shape of prehistoric-looking ferns.There is a moment, when one leaves the normalized city scenes of box stores, traffic, sky-scrapers and rows of houses behind, when I think even the most dedicated urbanophilelooks around at a wild place and becomes, quite naturally, a bit more human. Then a re-markable thing happens all on its own; we relax.Hollyhock, a 27-year-old resort and education centre on a southern crest of Cortes, en-

capsulates some of the island’s most extraordinary features. Perched on a hill overlookingthe ocean, the old farmhouse-now-lodge is wrapped with a cedar porch for sitting, diningand digesting. Walk through the breezy, sunlight-flooded, hardwood-floored interiorstraight through to the back and there lies the famous one-acre garden.It’s the kind of garden that stops you in your tracks. Designed to show off its contrasting

colours and shapes in a range of layers, it eschews—for the most part— traditional rowsfor spirals, curves, twists and turns. Designed around a centuries-old apple tree that wasa part of the original homestead, the garden has so many varieties of flowers and vines,herbs, vegetables, fruits and grasses, you could spend a day just learning their names. Incase that’s what you crave, wooden chairs are tucked in here and there so that you can sitand study or maybe just nap next to the irises or under the rose trellis.The garden, it is clear, is the heart of Hollyhock. It’s here the original founders came up

with the resort’s name after the giant red blossoms, and it’s here the longest-serving em-ployee still plucks and weeds, plants and harvests, coaxes seedlings, guides students andWWOOFers and, with utmost respect, works with the soil and the weather to growwhat be-comes some of the best produce I’ve ever tasted.Nori Fletcher, head gardener, has been gardening at Hollyhock for 27 years. “We aim to

make the most of the space,” she says looking over the abundant acre. It is a slightunderstatement. For farming aficionados, the Hollyhock garden is grown in the French

TRAVEL + FOOD —by Katie Zdybel

Replete RetreatThe garden is the heart of Hollyhock, and eating its bounty isa nurturing experience for all those who make the journey.

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KatieZdybel

1034 Fort Street | 250·380·7654 | www.epicureanpantry.ca

organic · fair trade · ethnic · artisan · local

TABLE TALK , co-hosted by Plenty & Terralicious

Join us the first Wednesday of each month to sample great food, share preparation and growing tips, and discuss short readings about food and sustainability.

For more information and toRSVP please v is i t :

www.terral ic ious.cawww.epicureanpantr y.ca

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Serving You Is Our Pleasure....All Year Through!

2577 Cadboro Bay Road,VICTORIA

592-0823

Quality meats,

Poultry, Cheeses,

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& Condiments

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intensive style, with the use of some biodynamic rules. And it is, of course, completely or-ganic and always has been. Trailing Nori around the garden as she describes past sea-sons—the “great black slug invasion,” or the year the raspberries got a virus—it becomesclear how hands-on her style of gardening is. There are no shortcut chemicals, gadgets ormachinery. When the garden was infested with slugs, she and her assistants picked themout every day by hand, filling jugs at a time. This kind of gardening is hard work, but withthe view of the ocean, the hushing sound of the towering trees all around, soft music andlight chatter from the lodge drifting out, it also gives the impression of being quite nur-turing work.“The mission from the beginning has been to nourish people with the environment, the

food and the programs,” marketing manager Greg Osoba tells me. “That has neverchanged.” He would know; next to Nori, he is the longest-term employee, rounding outhis 20 years with a variety of position changes from housekeeper, kitchen help and nowmarketing manager.I have my first taste of the food at dinnertime. But first of all, before you even get to the

dining room, you’re asked to leave your shoes behind at the front deck. Padding acrossthe wooden floors instantly takes me back to summer cottage memories. Is it even possi-ble to hurry through a meal when you’re barefoot and outdoors? I join the line around thedining table where the plates and silverware are stacked neatly beside a big-bellied Bud-dha statue. Hollyhock serves its meals communal-style: a spread of wide platters and deepbowls are filled with herbed salmon, greens picked moments ago, housemade dressings,potato salad speckled with garden herbs, hot-out-of-the-oven biscuits beside a deep dishof organic butter and heaps more vegetables. I shuffle around the table with the otherguests, appreciating the rose blossoms artfully scattered here and there, then having filledmy plate find a table on the back deck with a wide view of the ocean as far as the eye cansee.To say their food is nourishing is only the beginning. The herb-encrusted salmon tastes

vitally fresh and the texture reveals that it has been perfectly baked. The herbs too are po-tent and clearly straight from the garden. The biscuits are some of the best I’ve ever tried,that perfect texture of crumbly, warm and moist all at once. Even the butter tastes excep-tionally sweet and creamy, and the fresh greens would have been just as delicious un-dressed, humming as they do with a summery verdant crispness.For dessert—lest you think you may be eating too healthily—is a chubby little dark

chocolate cupcake collapsing under the weight of a generous spread of chocolate creamcheese icing and asterisked whimsically with a tiny violet flower. They’re buttery, moist,just sweet enough, and quite pretty.This first meal sets the tone for all the others I enjoy at Hollyhock. Consistently when I

sit down to eat, at least one thing at every meal completely arrests me and I find myselfwondering what are these flavours, how does this taste so good, what exactly am I eating.When I sit down with food and beverage manager Rebeka Carpenter, she tells me themenus are a team effort and part of what makes the food here so extraordinary is the cre-ative collaboration that goes on in the kitchen and the garden.What doesn’t come from their own garden, the cooks source from other parts of Cortes.

A growers’ co-op and farmers’market supplies some of the vegetables that grow less wellin Hollyhock’s backyard. “We are almost a self-sustaining island,” one employee tells me.“The idea of supporting local is very strong here.” On the ferry ride over fromQuadra, a fel-low passenger who farms on Cortes told me that the local food co-op is fundraising to buya travelling kitchen for butcheringmeat and washing and processing produce, so that moreCortes farmers and gardeners can sell their goods commercially. He rattles off the namesof some farms and gardens I should visit if I have the time and tells me that I could spenda couple months just visiting the different farms and producers around the island.Hollyhock, though it is only one small part of the island, is an amazing way to experi-

ence Cortes. It has been designed around the idea that the nature it is seated upon is itsfinest attribute. The guest cottages, activity and bodywork cabins, the lodge itself andyoga studio are nestled into the trees and connected by footpaths. Care has been taken notto cut down too many trees. There’s no vast golf course, no paved-over patios, no massiveswimming pools, no distracting televisions. It is simple, but comfortable—even luxuriousfeeling in spots (such as the two hot tubs perched at the top of the hill overlooking theocean, perfect for watching the moon rise). But the self-indulgence is never at the cost ofthe environment. Small reminders everywhere encourage guests to help them save on en-ergy, cut down on waste by composting scraps, turning a light off behind them, reusingtheir towels. The experience has all the simplicity of being a guest at a good friend’s cot-tage with the added luxury of having every meal expertly prepared and exquisitely fresh.When people speak of the raw and stunning beauty of British Columbia, of the incredi-

ble variety and quality of food that grows here, and the laid-back lifestyle that often ac-companies it, this is exactly what they mean. Hollyhock is a quintessential B.C. experienceand should be enjoyed by travellers and natives alike.

Hollyhock, Manson's Landing, Cortes Island, B.C., (800) 933-6339 or (250) 935-6576,www.hollyhock.ca

H atch, New Mexico, is a dry and dusty little pueblo housing four banks, a tavernand a smattering of retailers and restaurants. This mostly Hispanic town, and inparticular the surrounding fertile valley, garners big kudos as the site of the

world’s biggest chili crop and some of the world’s best chilies. Most famous is the greenchili, the star of the Hatch Chile Festival, which draws thousands of visitors every LabourDay. I have been one of the throng and found that green chilies were indeed a sweet reve-lation. Once roasted and blistered, they are chopped or mashed into salsa, cheese-stuffed,battered and fried into chile rellenos or simply rolled up in a fresh tortilla. But I also cot-toned on to the chili powders.My dwindling array of Hatch fine grinds range in shades of burnt marmalade through to

oxide and brick red. Although faded somewhat with transit and time, they are still vibrant.Each expresses a different degree of pungency and nuance of flavour. Some powders aresmokin’ sweet. A few are nutty and mellow. Most are hell-fire and damnation. A dash ofeach, in equal measure (OK, a tad more of hell-fire) tossed into a pot of chili, ramped up byroasted cumin seed, a bit of cinnamon and fresh oregano delivers a profoundly rich, spicy,mellow dish. The heat builds up on your palate in an oddly pleasant sensation, rather thanpunching you in the face. No plastic-bottled chili can match the Hatch.

Added to my stash of Hatch Chili powders are large California peppers, dried and/orsmoked to a glossy or “suede” leather finish. A couple of chilies change their names whendried. Jalapeño becomes chipotle (pronounced chee-pot-lay, not chee-po-tell). Poblanosgo by ancho or, incorrectly, pasilla, which in fact is dried Mexican chilaca chili. (Chipotlepeppers tinned in a piquant tomato and vinegar adobo sauce are usually available in mostgood super markets.)

All peppers belong to the Solanaceae family, which includes tomatoes, tobacco and po-tatoes. The pepper clan is prolific, producing hundreds of varieties. Most hot chili pepperslay claim to the genus Capsicum, and capsaicin is the compound that causes chilies to“burn.” (Jalapeños, Anaheims and the Hatch green chilies, though, are part of the milder“annum” family.)Etymologists lock heads as to whether “capsicum” draws from the Latin “capsa,” mean-

ing box because the seeds are enclosed in the fruit, or the Greek word “kepto,” meaning“to bite” due to heat. As for chili’s various spellings, Canadians tend to use “chili” for allforms, while Americans refer to “chile” as the fruit and “chili” as the stew or powder. TheBrits double up on the “l” and change the “e” to an “i.”

Chili hounds agree at least on the plant’s history. Cultivation hearkens back to around2500 BC in South America. Various sources document wild chilies bobbing about Mexicoas far back as 7000 BC. Centuries later Columbus brought the capsicum to Europe. It tookoff like wild fire especially in the Mediterranean and Balkan countries. Today we havesmoked Spanish and Hungarian sweet/hot paprika (also in my cupboard), spicy Italian andchorizo sausages, and pasta spiked with red chilies and fresh basil for penne “arrabiata”(the word means angry). And I’ve read the Turks perk up their plates of seafood and steakwith medium-powered Urfa and Maraş peppers.Meanwhile back in Hatch, folks could probably care less about chili’s peripatetic nature,

regional spellings or a how a poblano becomes an ancho. They, and every person within 150miles, are too damn busy dousing pure chili flavour on huevos rancheros, tacos, enchi-ladas and grilled meats. Homemade fiery red sauce and its gentler green cousin are culi-nary pillars of the community. (Google “red and/or green chili/chile sauce” for excellentrecipes.)

Since visiting New Mexico I’ve shunned commercial chili powder. Now, with my cov-eted stash nearly depleted andmy crystal ball indicating no immediate return to Hatch, it’shigh time I went about concoctingmy own rich coppery red chili powder—with all of the hotstuff and none of the MSG, flour and other additives found in many commercial powders.I load up on fine quality dried whole chilies when and where I can find them. (Seattle’s PikePlaceMarket has the wonderful Mexican Grocery, and Toronto’s KensingtonMarket housesdried and fresh chilies.) And any time I’m near a flame I have to blister an Anaheim or two.

Local lamband serving

Preparation tCooking timeMakes: 4-6 se

For the lamb• 1/3 cup tand• 1/3 cup yogu• 12 lamb cho• Vegetable o• Mint sprigs

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RED HOT CHILI PEPPERS

FOOD MATTERS — by Julie Pegg

From smokin’ sweet to hell-fire and damnation,chilies heat up the kitchen.

Chilis: chili de Arbol, jalepeno, poblano, pasilla, guajilloDish: Poblano tacos with creamed corn (photographed at La Taqueria)

HomemadeChili PowderAdapted from The Chile Pepper Book, Dille & Belsinger, Interweave Press, 1994.

Remove the stems and seeds from 6 chipotles and 6 dried Anaheims (if only freshare available, split them, seed them and dry in a slow—200°F—oven for severalhours) as well as 8 anchos or pasillas. (Dry fresh poblanos as you would theAnaheims if you can’t find the dried versions.) Break the chilies into sizable piecesand toast over low heat in a skillet until chilies start to just throw off their fragrance.Don’t let them darken or they will turn bitter. Remove chilies to a large plate andcool.Toast 6 tablespoons cumin seed, 6 tablespoons coriander seed and about 6 or 8

whole cloves as you would the chilies. Remove spices to a plate and cool.Grind the toasted chilies in small batches in a spice grinder or coffee grinder. Do

the samewith the toasted spices, adding 6 tablespoons of dried oregano (Mexicanif possible).Mix the chilies and spices together. Regrind in small batches until pulverized to

a fine powder. To kick up the heat, add 3 tablespoons good quality paprika and 1tablespoon cayenne.Seal tightly and store in a cool place. Use within 6months for best flavour. Recipe

can be halved—or divide the powder into little packets for great hostess gifts.

Local lamb is given an Indian-style taste by marinating it with tandoori pasteand serving it with a refreshingly, spicy chutney.

Preparation time: 20 minutes, plus 4 hours marinating timeCooking time: 6-8 minutesMakes: 4-6 servings

For the lamb• 1/3 cup tandoori paste (see Note)• 1/3 cup yogurt• 12 lamb chops• Vegetable oil for the grill• Mint sprigs for garnish

For the chutney• 1 cup fresh mint leaves, packed• 3 green onions, thinly• 1 small, fresh green serrano chili, seeds removed, flesh coarsely chopped• 1 garlic clove, minced• 1/4 cup fresh lime juice• 2 Tbsp vegetable oil• 2 Tbsp water• 1 Tbsp granulated sugar• 1/2 tsp ground cumin• 1/2 tsp salt

Place the tandoori paste and yogurt in a 9- by 13-inch dish and mix to combine. Add thelamb and turn to coat. Cover, refrigerate and marinate the lamb for 4 hours, or overnight,turning occasionally.To make the chutney, place all ingredients in a food processor and pulse until well

combined. Transfer to a serving bowl. Cover and refrigerate until needed.When fully marinated, let the lamb warm at room temperature for 30 minutes. Preheat

your grill to medium-high. Lightly oil the bars of the grill. Grill the lamb for 3 to 4 minutesper side, or until medium to medium-rare in doneness. Cook the lamb longer, if you preferit more well done. Give the chutney a stir and then serve with the lamb.Note: Tandoori paste is sold in the Asian foods aisle of most supermarkets.


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Grilled Tandoori Lamb Chopsã|à{ Mint Chutney

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Halibut with Bacon Dressing& Roasted Beets

HazelnutChews

See Recipes on thefollowing page.

25www.eatmagazine.ca MARCH | APRIL 2010

Jammy Rhubarb Compote

HazelnutChews

fresh spring supperRecipes and food styling by JENNIFER DANTER

Photography by REBECCAWELLMAN


main courseHalibut with Bacon Dressing& Roasted BeetsThe sweet and salty flavours of the bacon dressing may seem a bit overpowering onit’s own, but when paired with meaty halibut, well, it’s divine! Especially if you usebacon from Choux Choux. A hint of horseradish with earthy beets adds a little kick too.

4 beets, trimmed and scrubbedOlive oil1 tsp prepared horseradish4 6-oz fillets fresh halibut (choose thick centre cuts)Knob of butter3 thick strips bacon, chopped1 shallot, minced2 garlic cloves, minced1/4 cup Spinnaker’s Apple Cider Vinegar1Tbsp babe’s honey1/4 cup good quality olive oil2 Tbsp chopped fresh parsley or cilantro

1. Place beets on a large piece of foil and drizzle with a little olive oil. Seal to form apackage and place on a baking sheet. Roast in 375°F oven until tender, from 35 to 45min., depending on size. You want them tender but not too soft. When cool enough tohandle, slip off skins. Chop beets, then toss with horseradish and a drizzle of olive oil.Cover and keep in a warm spot.2. Season fish with pinches of salt and pepper, if you wish. Melt butter in a frying panover medium-high. When bubbly, add fish, skin-side up. Sear until golden, 2 to 3 min.,then place, skin-side down, on a small baking sheet. Finish cooking in preheated 375°Foven until cooked through, 8 to 10 min.3. Meanwhile, wipe out frying pan. Add bacon and fry until crispy. Remove bacon to aplate but leave 1 Tbsp fat in pan. Add shallot and reduce heat to medium. Cook untilsoft, 3 to 4 min, then add garlic and sauté until fragrant, about 1 min. Pour in vinegarand scrape up any bits from pan bottom. Stir in honey and oil until well mixed, then re-move from heat and stir in parsley.4. To serve, place beets on plates and top with fish. Spoon dressing overtop.

dessertJammy Rhubarb CompoteThis is the time of year I start to use up my strawberry jam from last summer. It adds arich colour plus well needed sweetness to very tart rhubarb. Great over spiced yogurt,crème fraiche, cheesecake or ice cream. Serves 4

6 cups coarsely chopped rhubarb1/2 cup homemade strawberry or seedless raspberry jam1/2 cup Babe’s honey3/4 cup water

In a saucepan, combine rhubarb with jam and honey. Add water and bring to a boil.Simmer until rhubarb is as tender as you like, 8 to 10 minutes. Strain rhubarb and re-serve liquid. Return liquid to pan and simmer, stirring often, until reduced to thicksyrup. Pour over rhubarb.

Spice It Up: Add a stick of cinnamon or a few pieces of star anise or pinches of fennelseeds.

Sweet ‘n Savoury YogurtThe almost mint-like tanginess of fresh thyme is a pleasant surprise here. Excellentwith Jammy Rhubarb Compote. Serves 4

4 cups yogurt (full-fat)3 Tbsp Babe’s honey1 tsp chopped fresh thyme1/4 tsp ground cinnamon

1. Place yogurt in a sieve and set over a bowl. Refrigerate overnight so most of thewhey drains off and yogurt is quite thick. Stir in honey, thyme and cinnamon. Spooninto bowls and top with Jammy Rhubarb Compote.

Hazelnut ChewsI love this cookie because it’s an easy stir-together dough – no need to haul out mixersand such. Plus it shows off the flecks of hazelnuts and I highly recommend popping ina few while they’re still slightly warm – that’s when they’re at their chewy best. Makesabout 35-40 cookies.

3/4 cup ground hazelnuts2/3 cup granulated sugar1/4 tsp salt1/2 cup butter, melted, cooled slightly1 egg, lightly beaten1/2 tsp vanilla1 cup all-purpose flourIcing sugar

1. In a bowl, stir hazelnuts with sugar and salt. Stir in butter, egg and vanilla. Add flourand stir until well mixed. Dough will be very soft. Refrigerate until firm, 20 to 30 min.2. Roll into small balls (about 1 heaping tsp each), then space out on a baking sheetlined with parchment paper. Bake in preheated 350F oven until bottoms are goldenand tops are barely soft in centre, but cooked through, 18 to 20 minutes. Slightly underbaked cookies stay chewier.3. Cool completely, then dust with icing sugar. Layer in a baking tin and store in a cooldark place, up to 1 week or freeze up to 2 months. If freezing, dust with icing sugar justbefore serving.

This time of year is such a tease! All those green shoots poking through the earth can’t grow fast enoughto match our desire for the first fresh produce. This early spring dinner straddles the seasons – a fewstaples and flavours leftover from the colder months (think beets, bacon and comfort food cookies) mixedwith a few spring harbingers: fresh caught halibut and ruby red rhubarb.Welcome Spring!

fresh spring supper

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27www.eatmagazine.ca MARCH | APRIL 2010

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Victoria restaurateurs, watch out.Word is, Emad Yacoub is peering across the Salish Seain your direction.Yacoub, for EATers unfamiliar with the Vancouver dining scene, is the whirlwind behind

the city’s Glowbal Group.He employs 680 staff.He feeds 75,000 customers every month.His restaurants gross $32 million annually.At Yacoub’s restaurants, people eat awfully well for modest money, in smart designer

surroundings, with excellent service and to raucous music that reaches skull-splitting in-tensities as evenings progress. Blessedly, the rooms are always packed and the din of sat-isfied customers defeats the speakers.Welcome to the classic immigrant success story: Yacoub was born and raised in Cairo.

Arriving in Canada at age 19 with Arabic his only language, he began his professional lifeas a kitchen helper at Toronto’s Hilton Harbour Castle. A lightning study, he enrolled in thehotel’s two-year apprenticeship program, launching a career at the stoves that would in-clude stints as chef de cuisine at the prestigious Chiaro’s in Toronto’s King Edward Hotel andexecutive chef at Joe Fortes Seafood and Chop House in Vancouver.Eight years ago, he and wife Shannon Bosa—they met at Fortes, where she managed—

opened the stylish Glowbal in Yaletown. They wooed and won over locals with truffledspaghetti and Kobe meatballs.Glowbal is recently reborn as a steakhouse with tartare as one of the steaks and chips

fried, sublimely, in duck fat. But along the way, Yacoub opened five more restaurants:Sanafir, the most exotic-looking (think Egyptian temple for people addicted to martinis)eatery in Vancouver’s history; Coast, the fish and seafood emporium; Society for renovatedcomfort food under bubblegum-pink chandeliers; the Italian Kitchen—Vancouver Sun criticMia Stainsby called it “one sexy seducer”—and the understated, affordable and addictiveKitsilano boite, Trattoria Italian Kitchen.Yacoub, a complex man, juggles roles with the instincts of a multiple personality. Meet

Emad the chef, who leaps into the kitchen when it’s clear a cook hasn’t a clue about pizza.Meet Emad the tycoon who can not only tell you how much money the resto made thisyear, but howmuch it will make next year. Meet Emad the entrepreneur who revels in cre-ating restaurants (jeepers, Chinese?). And Emad, the hands-on guy, seen on foot, in lousyweather, making the rounds from resto to resto with the gait of a dad putting his childrento bed.Transience is the one thing that clearly frightens him. “I don’t want to be that guy that

had six restaurants back in 2010,” he says. “We have to keep looking forward, keep in-novating, keep growing with our clientele as they age and mature. Our challenge is al-ways that of not becoming stale.”Facing a young demographic as he unveiled Society last October, he promoted the

restaurant opening via Facebook and Twitter. On the big day, the line-ups materialized,eager to tuck into such new old faves as lobster shepherd’s pie and Kahlua milkshakes.And now Yacoub and his lieutenants are about to expand the Trattoria Italian Kitchen

concept throughout Vancouver and environs, which will likely include Victoria.

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EMPIREBUILDERHighly successfulEmad Yacoubof Vancouver’sGlowbal Group issetting his GPSfor the Garden City.

by Jeremy Ferguson

CarolFerguson

l: Emad Yacoub at the ItalianKitchen, one of his manyrestaurants.

28

the taste ofNEW ZEALANDNathan Fong says “kia ora” to New Zealandand returns with a wealth of Asian-inspired recipes. I

’ve always been told how similar B.C. and New Zealandcan be. Perhaps this is true geographically, with theirstunning valleys, dramatic mountains and ruggedfjords. When it comes to food and ingredients, thecountry is what TourismNew Zealand says it is: 100 per-

cent pure. The quality, freshness and sustainability of ingredi-ents surpass much of what I’ve seen on various marketadventures around the globe. Perhaps it’s because the country’sGNP relies mainly on food production from its extensive dairy in-dustry, seafood and, of course, superb wines.Fishing last spring off New Zealand’s South Island in Queen

Charlotte Sound, (yes, even some of the place names are thesame), the fish were practically jumping on to the hooks. I wasimpressed with their catch-and-release policies, and during myall-too short visit, I found parallels with our B.C. food scene: theuse of seasonal and regional produce from local farmers, thehuge Asian influence on their cuisine such as local kingfishsashimi, Cantonese steamed New Zealand snapper, and the out-standing, tender wild puau (abalone). A rare treat consideringwe haven’t harvested these mollusks on our B.C. coastline fordecades due to over-fishing.I was impressed by the Asian cuisine, from the high-styled fu-

sion cuisines of local chef Peter Gordon at his restaurant in Auck-land, to surprisingly good quality dim sum at the family-runMaster Kong Restaurant in the charming rural town of Hamilton.It was refreshing to find this standard of Chinese cuisine in suchan area, like finding decent Chinese food in our Prairies, whichusually means sweet and sour and chicken chow mein! But it issoutheast Asian cuisine that seems to be most popular, andthese restaurants are more prevalent than their northern Asiancounterparts. The first Maori settlers were followed by the whiteimmigrants (British as well as Dalmations frommodern-day Croa-tia), then the Chinese for the gold rush. Malaysians, Vietnamese,Thai, Korean and Indonesians have also followed the wave overthe past few decades. Overall, their history is much like ours.A strong Maori influence is also seen in the food scene; re-

gional and indigenous ingredients such as edible ferns and wildmushrooms make an appearance on menus. Research over thepast 10 years has the Maoris migrating from mainland China toTaiwan, the Philippines, the Pacific islands and eventually NewZealand. I had a chance to experience a traditional Hangi, whichseemed like a cross between our First Nations potlatch and aHawaiian luau, where ritual and ceremony couple with traditionalfoods cooked in an underground pit.I have compiled some of the fresh, inspired dishes I enjoyed

on my culinary journey, perfect for our cold weather!

EATMAGAZINEMARCH | APRIL 2010

THAIOne popu

southeast Asbooths, woowithmint, ciladressing. SoThai fish sauimportant flastarter entré

1 lb flank or s10 or more T2 large clove1 1/2 Tbsp su1/4 cup fish1/4 cup fresh1 romaine let1 bunch fresh1/2 English c2 to 3 shallo1/2 bunch ci2 cups bean1/2 cup roas

Season stearare. Removeacross and 1Mix garlic,

solved. Add tfish sauce ifToss lettuc

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Little NWhen visit

Pacific), I meWellington’sple, tasty Viebeurre blancsmokiness thare in fact thlike our nativcate citrus be

6 dozen Littl2 cups chick1/3 cup nuoc1 to 2 Thai re1/2 Tbsp fine2 1/2 Tbsp co1 cup coarse

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Nuoc Cham

New Zealand will be one of the featured countries at this year’s Vancouver Playhouse International Wine Festival April 19 to 25. www.playhousewinefest.com.

THAI BEEF SALAD

TraceyKusiew

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Sherlock

leftLittle Neck Clamswith Nuoc Cham

rightFresh Green ShellMarlborough MusselsSteamed with ThaiSpicesSee recipe atwww.eatmagazine.ca

1/3 cup suga3 Tbsp water1/4 cup fish s1/2 cup fresh

For more of Nathan Fong’s recipes from New Zealand visit www.eatmagazine.ca/recipe


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New Zealandlly, with theirand ruggedredients, theit is: 100 per-ty of ingredi-ious marketthe country’ssive dairy in-

nd in Queenames are thehooks. I wasnd during myod scene: thefarmers, theocal kingfishand the out-t consideringcoastline for

gh-styled fu-urant in Auck-e family-runof Hamilton.uisine in suchairies, whichmein! But it ispopular, andorthern Asianby the whiteern-day Croa-Vietnamese,he wave overh like ours.od scene; re-erns and wildarch over theand China toentually NewHangi, whichotlatch and ath traditional

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THAI BEEF SALAD (Yam Neua)One popular Wellington spot I visited was Chow, which served an eclectic variety of

southeast Asian cuisine. The second storey interior has a great Asian ambiance with itsbooths, wooden dividers and hanging lanterns. I had a superb Thai-style rare beef saladwithmint, cilantro, bean sprouts and peanuts, tossedwith a sweet-tart and spicy nahm prikdressing. So simple and fresh with its vibrant vinaigrette and aromatic greens. PungentThai fish sauce, which the Thais use the way soy is used in northern Asian cooking, is animportant flavouring for the dressing. I’ve adapted this recipe from Chow. Serves 4 as astarter entrée.

1 lb flank or sirloin steak10 or more Thai red chilies, thinly sliced2 large cloves garlic, finely minced1 1/2 Tbsp sugar1/4 cup fish sauce1/4 cup freshly squeezed lime juice1 romaine lettuce, rinsed, dried and cut into bite-sized pieces1 bunch fresh mint, leaves removed and stems discarded1/2 English cucumber, cut in half lengthwise, then cut into thin moons2 to 3 shallots or 1 small red onion, thinly sliced1/2 bunch cilantro, coarsely chopped2 cups bean sprouts1/2 cup roasted peanuts, coarsely chopped

Season steak with salt and freshly ground pepper. Grill or broil the steak until medium-rare. Remove from grill and allow to rest 5 minutes. Slice thin, into pieces about 2 inchesacross and 1/8 inch thick.Mix garlic, chilies, fish sauce, lime juice and sugar in a small bowl until sugar has dis-

solved. Add the slicedmeat and toss with the cucumbers and shallots. Taste and addmorefish sauce if desired.Toss lettuce, bean sprouts, mint and cilantro together andmake a bed on a serving plate.

Place themarinated beef mixture on top with the dressing and garnish with cilantro sprigsand chopped peanuts.

Little Neck Clams with Nuoc ChamWhen visiting the beautiful city ofWellington (some call it the San Francisco of the South

Pacific), I met famed chef, restaurateur, author and television personality Al Brown (ofWellington’s Logan-Brown), who brought me into his al fresco kitchen and made this sim-ple, tasty Vietnamese-influenced dish as well as the superb abalone with salsa verde andbeurre blanc (see below). He cooked in his wood-burning oven, which gave the food amildsmokiness that I loved. I was also impressedwith what New Zealanders call crawfish. Theseare in fact their massive spiny lobsters, which have a large body and tail but no pincherslike our native species. These were served simply steamed tender and served with a deli-cate citrus beurre blanc … the Kiwis so love their butter! Serves 6.

6 dozen Little Neck clams (or substitute manilas)2 cups chicken stock1/3 cup nuoc cham (see recipe below)1 to 2 Thai red chilies, fine diced (seeded optional)1/2 Tbsp fine chopped garlic2 1/2 Tbsp cold butter, in small pieces1 cup coarsely chopped cilantro

Place the clams in a large saucepan followed by the chicken stock, nuoc cham, chilies andgarlic. Cover and place over high heat bringing to a boil. Give the saucepan a quick shaketo help open the clams and mix the ingredients around.As soon as clams are open, remove with a slotted spoon, reserving the liquid and place

in warm serving dishes.Place the saucepan back onto high heat and bring the liquid up to boiling point. Whisk

in the butter and the cilantro; season to taste with more nuoc cham if desired. Spoon overclams and serve with warm baguettes.

Nuoc Cham

k ClamsCham

en Shellugh Musselswith Thai

atagazine.ca

1/3 cup sugar3 Tbsp water1/4 cup fish sauce1/2 cup fresh lime juice

1 Thai red chili, finely chopped1 Tbsp finely chopped shallots1 Tbsp finely chopped garlic

Whisk together sugar, water,fish sauce and lime juice untilsugar has dissolved. Add in re-maining ingredients; refriger-ate until ready to use.


What’shappening inVANCOUVER?

Chef Julio Gonzalez Perini has reinvented the raviolo at Lupo, (869 Hamilton Street,604-569-2537 no website) the restaurant formerly known as Villa Del Lupo. And what a ravioloit is—spinach and ricotta stuffed, and how that perfectly poached golden yoked-free range egggets tucked into that airy pasta packet? Answer. “Very carefully.” Hazelnut brown-butter sauceadds a final, and perfect, touch. Perini and sommelier Michael Mameli have revamped the space,modifying the “Villa’s” posh nosh for today’s palates and pocketbooks while keeping qualityand quantity in tact. All Lupo antipastizi to share, clock in under $15. Primi are a generous smallor large. Go for the small and split two or three dishes. (We love the braised pork cheeks withporcini “sugo”). Mains lean toward lamb shank ossobucco ($20) or Italian sausage with sauer-kraut, and cannelini bean ragout ($19). Mameli’s well-priced taster/wine-by-glass selection al-lows you to pair the right wine with right dish. (The filling Ravioli and liberal sampler of CastelloBanfi Gavi costs 16 bucks.) From my bay window seat looking into the cozy rooms, I could seethat Lupo’s philosophy of “make good food”, treat people nice”, is working splendidly.Chef Jennifer Peters steps up to the plate as executive chef of Raincity Grill (www.raincity-

grill.com). Can Peters continue to dish up the likes of a late-January media dinner? If so, the gal’sa keeper. Baynes Sound Scallop ceviche nearly dissolves on the tongue. Hazelnut-crustedsalmon (from Bruce Swift’s sustainable farmed Coho) underscores further Peter’s knack withseafood. And did the bubbly chef's recent stints on Vancouver Island (Bear Mountain Resortand Malaspina College) influence the Island wines on the menu? Like much of Raincity’s in-gredients Peter’s local roots hail well within a hundred miles. Look for Peters, on past episodes ofthe Food Network’s 100 Mile Diet (www.100mile.foodtv.ca)Mean Mister Mustard. Did you know that the word “mustard” comes from the unfermented juiceof grapes and other fruits called “must” which was added originally instead of vinegar?" asksRobert Remy in a tone that states rather than questions. The French entrepreneur who now makes

his home in West Vancouver, spearheadedVancouver Co. Mustard adds “We havethree different MUSTARD blends (Original,Hot, and Old Style) produced for the Cana-dian market “They are all 100% natural”.Indeed the mustards strike a beautfiul bal-ance between taste and tang. The hot mus-tard is a feisty number, perfect for a classicsteak au poivre. You’ll find Vancouver Co.Mustard at Whole Foods Markets,Choices Markets, Stong’s Market,Oyama Sausage, on the Island at MarktArtisan Deli (in Nanaimo) and other fineBC food emporiums. Log onto www.vmus-tard.com for more info. Email [email protected] for classic the classic French steakrecipe. —by Julie Pegg

What’shappening in COMOXVALLEY?

The winter has seen many changes in the rich foodie scene in the greater Comox Valley. Severalrestaurants closed. Among them The Pier and Anderton Bistro in Comox, and The Great Es-cape in Cumberland. Chef Andrew Stigant was doing great things at the Leeward-cum-Anderton Bistro. I look forward to visiting his new venue, Crown Isle's Silverado Steakhouse[399 Clubhouse Drive, Courtenay 250-703-5050]. As well as closures we've seen openings andbig splashes. One of the hottest new properties in the region has to be The Mad Chef Café inthe former Orbitz Pizza location [492 Fitzgerald Avenue (250) 871-7622]. They’re very activeon Facebook. Comox Valley Bakehouse [www.comoxvalleybakehouse.com] is making waveswith 17 different types of bread, Montreal-style bagels, and pastries. They do wholesale, retail,and to-your-door deliveries. Yowzah! Chef Ronald St-Pierre of Locals [364-8th Street250.338.6493, www.localscomoxvalley.com] is both a champion of local food, an amazingrestauranteur – and a singer of others' praises. He told us that Aladin's House of Tandoori [2758th Street 250-871-8552 www.aladinsrestaurant.com] serves "tasty, fresh, and well priced" foodwith fun and "funky decor." Another source raved about the East African kuku paka (coconutchicken). Fluid [1175-Cliffe Ave 250-338-1500] can be loud and "youthful" for these ears. Ourcrew dropped in on a quiet (sound-wise) night mid-week and had a great time and great food. Iliked that the bartender made the Savoy cocktail (a signature drink from Avenue Bistro) the wayI like it, and the late night, mid-week service. Readers of the last issue of EAT (www.eatmagazine.ca| @eatmagazine) will be aware of how much local chefs appreciate Saigon Noodle House [inthe strip mall with White Spot and Joey's Fish & Chips] for its prices and flavours. Hana KoreanRestaurant [526 Cliffe Avenue 250-334-0868], opened on the corner of Cliffe and 5th. Oneof my fave foodies Anh raves about it, "eat in or take out." A very different kind of food experienceis available on that corner at Rose's Tea Room. A friend tells me that proprietor "Minnie is alovely person and a great cook. She's created a relaxing place to go for lunch or tea with afriend." As for Anh, she (and my foodie/dance/soul pal Rachel) rave about dim sum at Comox'sBamboo Inn [2040 Comox Avenue 250-339-3500]. Anh's also a fan of the Chicken Udon noo-dle soup at Yamato Restaurant [597 Cliffe Avenue 250-334-202]. Another foodie "loves" Zizi'sCafé [441B Cliffe Avenue 250-334-1661]. I’m a fan of their Turkish coffee and baclava. Justaround the corner sits Brambles Market, where James and Angelina Street are doing greatlocal food stuff and foodie education via their Facebook and Twitter presence [244A 4th Street(250) 334-8163 www.bramblesmarket.ca | @bramblesmarket]. Very cool. Tita’s MexicanRestaurant [536-6th Street, Courtenay 250-334-8033] is turning 20 (!!) this spring. Wow. Greatfood and service, always. A regular stop for me and my kids. My neighbour, Bethany Pierce, hasgone public: "I'm very picky... and was SUPER IMPRESSED with a meal we just at the UnionStreet Grill" [477-5th Street, Courtenay 250-897-0081]. As for Atlas [250-6th Street, Courte-nay 250-338-9838], I'm with Kim Barzilay who raves: "ALWAYS our first pick !!!!" (I'd tone itdown with the exclamation marks, but the sentiments remain.) Which is why I like what happensat Atlas's sister restaurant in Comox, Avenue Bistro [2064 Comox Ave, 250-890-9200 www.av-enuebistro.ca | @avenuebistro]. I'm not alone. Another fan exclaimed about the "traditional eggsbenny...mmmn,delicious." I recently enjoyed a French 55 cocktail (thanks Freddy - very good) andtuna tower before gorging on papardelle with ribs and beet ravioli... Martine’s Bistro [1754Beaufort Ave, Comox (250) 339-1199] gives great atmosphere, service, and food. This spring chef

Marcus Aartearly-winterwww.toscanosland Highwayspring includeApril 15th. Mwww.triaculinMarch 20 anLocals' Lia Mcme of the Barmatch. And finphotos in thewhile Jackie dable at Courte—by Hans Pet

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Valley. SeveralThe Great Es-Leeward-cum-Steakhouseopenings andChef Café inre very activemaking wavesolesale, retail,64-8th Street, an amazingandoori [275l priced" foodpaka (coconutese ears. Ourd great food. Iistro) the wayatmagazine.cadle House [inHana Koreanand 5th. Oneod experiencer "Minnie is aor tea with am at Comox'sken Udon noo-e "loves" Zizi'sbaclava. Juste doing great4A 4th Streeta’s Mexicang. Wow. Greatny Pierce, hasat the UnionStreet, Courte-!!" (I'd tone itwhat happens9200 www.av-aditional eggsery good) andBistro [1754his spring chef

Marcus Aartzen is featuring lamb and local Tannadice Farms pork. I thoroughly enjoyed anearly-winter meal at Toscano's Trattoria [190 Port Augusta, Comox 250-890-7575www.toscanos.ca]. I've always admired what they do at the Kingfisher Restaurant [4330 Is-land Highway 250-338-1323 and 800-663-7929 www.kingfisherspa.com]. Special events thisspring include "Dining out for Life Fundraiser for AIDS" on March 25th and a Chef’s Table onApril 15th. My pals at Tria Culinary Studio [4905 Darcy Road, Courtenay 250-338-9765www.triaculinarystudio.ca | @triaculinary] will be re-opening with a spring equinox dinner onMarch 20 and the first of their spring cooking classes beginning on March 21. On another note,Locals' Lia McCormick says she's "liking the whole grain muffins atGrains Bakery. They remindme of the Bar None muffins." Me, I miss the Bar None cinnamon rolls. I've never ever met theirmatch. And finally, my apologies to Lia: In my last column I credited Jackie Connelly with all thephotos in the recent North Island Chef Association cookbook, Island Inspirations. It turns out thatwhile Jackie did some of the photo work, most of the images are Lia's. Island Inspirations is avail-able at Courtenay's Beyond the Kitchen Door [274B 5th St, 250-338-4404].—by Hans Peter Meyer

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Report on the 2010Halibut SeasonByWes Erikson

The opening period for 2010, for BC and all areas north is March 6 till November 15. Thisyear we will see fresh halibut on themarket 2 weeks earlier than last year. I spoke in favourof seeing a longer season as this allows us the opportunity to serve fresh halibut longer.This is the second year in the eighty-seven year history of the IPHC that a chef’s

association (North Vancouver Island Chefs Association) has been represented. Last year,I had to explain our application to the Conference Board (made up of commercial fisher-men, sports fishing organizations, community representatives, Tribal representatives, etc).I had to explain why our association should be given a seat and voting status. We nowhave a voice within the IPHC process as chefs. The next meeting is in January 2011 inVictoria and it would be great to send more representation next time and/or perhaps acooking demonstration.We are the end user of the resource and can speak on behalf of thepopulation that never catch a halibut but enjoy consuming this beautiful fish in the restau-rants, cooking schools, and businesses we work in. For more information on the IPHC seewww.iphc.washington.edu

left: Wes Erikson is an active fourthgeneration commercial fisherman.Wes has been involved in the fisheriesadvisory process for over 20 years andhas recently been a halibut represen-tative on the Commercial IndustryCaucus. Along with fishing Wes hasowned operated and cooked inseafood restaurants for the last 16years.

Carrot on the Run grows in NanaimoAlexandra Teare, the proprietor of Carrot on the Run, has seen boththe City of Nanaimo and her business expand in recent years.Heading into its sixth year this two-fold deli and catering businessis located adjacent to Island Natural Market and nearbyWoodgrove Centre and is a great spot for lunch while in the Northend of Namaimo.Walk in and check-out the huge blackboard menu that features

many local products including local meats, Saltspring Islandcoffees, wild mushrooms and Island grown fruits and vegetables.In addition to sit down dining, the deli offers everything frompicnic baskets to take-out dinner—ranging from VegetarianLasagna ($5.95) to Transylvanian Goulash ($7.95). Dessertsinclude flans, cheesecakes and pies as well as diet-friendlyRazzberry Upside Down Cake for diabetics and wheat and dairy-free Double-layered Chocolate Cake.On the caterering side, 24 Carrot Catering specializes in social

and business events, weddings, holiday feasts and parties.

Carrot on the Run is open Monday to Friday from 7 am to 7 pm, Saturdays - 10 am to 6 pmand Sundays - 11 am to 5 pm.

6560 Metral Drive, Nanaimo, B.C., (250)390-0008,www.24carrotcatering.bc.ca

Alexandra Teare


What’shappening in NANAIMO?

Nanaimo’s Best Gourmet Deli just got BIGGER!

Nanaimo’s Best Gourmet Deli just got BIGGER!

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6560 Metral Drive, Nanaimo 390-0008 [email protected] Metral Drive, Nanaimo 390-0008 [email protected]

Yahoo spring! There are little green shoots popping up in every corner of my garden. During thewinter months, when my body craves warmth and sun, I go in search of sweets. My sugar rush canusually be quenched by slurping a politically-incorrect 12,500 kilometer carbon-footprint mangofrom Australia. However, my sweet tooth did net me a calorically-indulgent new find.Secrets Bake Shop [1209 Island Highway East, Unit 2B, Parksville, Tel: 250-248-8825] wouldmake Hansel and Gretel spin out of control. The owner, Tara Bohn, is the countess of confec-tionaries, the goddess of goodies and the Sugar Plum Fairy of Parksville. If you have ever beeninto Rosie Daykin’s shop called Butter Baked Goods in the Dunbar area of Vancouver, you willfeel at home in Secrets. It is mom’s kitchen circa 1960 complete with the floral wallpaper andpastel colour scheme. The display case teeters with fancy cupcakes, old-fashioned cookies, hand-made marshmallows, tarts and many other “melt-your-resolve” treats. Everything is made on-premfrom the gooey caramel sauce to the deep dark fudge brownies. She’s even come up with her ownsignature bar called the “Oceanside Bar.” She plans to give the Nanaimo bar a sugar-rush for itsmoney.If you have ever watchedGuy Fieri’s show on Food Network called Diners, Drive-ins and Dives

you know, in your heart-of-hearts, that you have a few places you frequent that fall into this cate-gory. Well guess what? Me too. Top of the list is The Husky Restaurant [86 Terminal AvenueNorth, Nanaimo, Tel: 250-754-1680] and yes, it really is located in a Husky Gas station. The oneand only thing I go for is the Eggs Benny. Swimming in tangy freshly-made hollandaise sauce,perfectly cooked eggs, crispy English muffin, a stack of meaty smoked back bacon and the req-uisite puff and fluff of parsley, it is heart-cloggingly terrific. The place is always slammed with line-ups out the door. It is the breakfast place of choice for those in the know. The wait staff has beenthere since the last Studebaker rolled off the line, and the décor is the same vintage.Next is Nellie’s Dutch Deli [2980 Island Highway North, Nanaimo, Tel: 250-729-7044].

This place is a hidden gem. Ladies in frilly aprons bustling about (no wooden clogs) making whop-ping mile-high sandwiches crammed to the roof with layers of “betweens” and so large you needto crack your jaw to eat them. The soups are served in small cauldrons and made daily. Then, ifyou have room, do a face-plant into their carrot cake. The place also stocks a trove of Dutch treats,spices, and sauces and other curious things I cannot pronounce, and are best left to the Dutch toexplain.Goats on the roof? If you have no idea what the heck I am talking about, you need to get out

of town more often. Coombs Country Market on Highway # 4A [2246 Alberni Hwy, Coombs,

BC, Tel: 250-2only) actuallyeclectic store hsauces, a zillioThe restauranscrumptious caand half the fuThen, to tota

Fitzwilliam Strehas been in cstill has somethe middle, firmup the residuaa club sandwiwings and sw—by Su Grim

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Terralicious’help youth devwoodland, weing to grow, c(www.terraliciSpring bring

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?en. During thesugar rush canotprint mangod.-8825] wouldess of confec-ave ever beenouver, you willwallpaper andcookies, hand-made on-premp with her owngar-rush for its

e-ins and Divesinto this cate-minal Avenueation. The onendaise sauce,n and the req-med with line-staff has beene.0-729-7044].making whop-arge you needdaily. Then, if

of Dutch treats,o the Dutch to

eed to get outHwy, Coombs,

BC, Tel: 250-248-6272], is a must stop whether coming or going to Tofino. The goats (summeronly) actually graze about on the grass and straw roof of the building. Serious photo op! Theeclectic store has lashings of food stuffs from around the world, interesting cheeses, terrific breads,sauces, a zillion varieties of ice cream, and of course the prerequisite whirly-gigs and quirky gifts.The restaurant in the store (Coombs Café) is a place to get a decent burger, hand-cut fries andscrumptious cardiac-arrest mac & cheese. Nothing is glam, but it’s tasty and a lively environmentand half the fun is the people watching.Then, to totally round out your dive experience, hit The Oxy Pub in Old Town, Nanaimo [432

Fitzwilliam Street, Nanaimo, Tel: 250-753-3771]. Located in a heritage hotel built in 1887, the Oxyhas been in continuous operation, as a hotel and pub, since that date. In fact, I am fairly sure itstill has some of the same patrons. In its history it has gone from classy to scary, and now it sits inthe middle, firmly planted on funky. Late day hang-over breakfasts are piled high with things to soakup the residual from the night before. Lunches are served with vats of hearty made-daily soups anda club sandwich to end all clubs. Dinner, with a pint, has to include the pterodactyl-sized chickenwings and sweet yam fries. None of it is good for you, except to sooth your soul.—by Su Grimmer

What’shappening in VICTORIA?There are so many excellent reasons to eat out in Victoria over the next two months; the first ofwhich is the 5th Annual Dining Out For Life. On March 25th, over 60 restaurants from acrossVancouver Island will donate 25% of their food bills to AIDS Vancouver Island. In addition, 1$from every Stella Artois sold at participating restaurants on that day will go to fighting AIDS. Fora full list of participating restaurants visit www.diningoutforlife.com.There is also good incentive to purchase tickets for the Vancouver Island Chef’s

Collaborative Local Food Festival, Defending Our Backyard, early this year. The event itselfwill be held May 30th at Fort Rodd Hill, but you’ll want to buy your tickets ahead of time, as eachticket purchased before May 1st will enter you in a monthly draw. The March 1st prize is dinnerfor two at The Mark, and the April 1st prize is a weekend for two at the Union Club. Tickets areavailable for purchase at Spinnakers, Sips, Cook St. Village Liquor, La Piola, and other loca-tions. Check their website for more details (www.iccbc.ca).Looking for suitable ways to keep your budding foodies entertained during March Break?

Terralicious’ Spring Break Cooking & Gardening Camp is for kids 5-9 years old, and seeks tohelp youth develop a meaningful relationship with food while exploring the ecology of an urbanwoodland, wetland, and market farm complete with laying chickens. Activities will include learn-ing to grow, cook and bake delicious, nutritious food. March 8th-12th from 9 am -3 pm.(www.terralicious.ca)Spring brings good news for Victoria celiacs, with the Niagara Grocery in James Bay now

stocking a wide variety of gluten-free breads by Silly Yak. In addition to her numerous demon-stration classes offered at French Mint, chef Denise Marchessault is now offering celiac-friendlyclasses as well (www.frenchmint.ca), and The Fairmont Empress will also be hosting a CeliacWeekend March 13th-14th,, including a gluten-free dinner in the Empress Room as well as aceliac-friendly Afternoon Tea.The Moss Street Market Annual General Meeting will be held Saturday March 27th, 2010.

They will also be holding two half-market days April 17th and 24th before starting up the regularseason on May 1st.April brings two conventions to Victoria: The Canadian Highly Migratory Species

Foundation has partnered with the B. C. Tuna Fishermen's Association to host the second

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annual Canadian Albacore Tuna Convention and Trade Show. This two-day event will take placeApril 19-21, 2010 at the Bear Mountain Resort, Langford, British Columbia. For more informa-tion, visit www.canadianalbacoretuna.comThe Crystal Garden will be home to a new food show on Thursday April 22, 2010. Culinaire,

Victoria’s Premier Food Tasting Experience, will showcase our region’s best restaurants whilepurveyors of fine food will be offering samples of their signature items and inspired creations foryou to try. A wide selection of bite size offerings from the area's best chefs and specialty food pro-ducers will be available for you to sample. For more information, visit www.culinairevictoria.com.New to the South Island is Nut Pop Thai, in Sooke. Head Chef and General Manager,

Cassandra Gillis blends the best of Thai and local flavours, offering fresh and customized vegan,gluten and MSG free options. Wanna Wafel recently opened in Market Square, serving authen-tic BelgianWaffles and Level Ground coffee. Late News: The Village Family Market on Pandorahas closed its doors. Veneto in the Hotel Rialto has expanded, adding a new wine bar andopening for lunch. —by Rebecca Baugniet

1715 Government [email protected]

Dinner 5:30 - 11 pmTuesday to Saturday

Check out the fabulous Okanagan Spring Wine Festival April 30th to May 9th! The annualWestJet tasting remains the best overall event for sipping and swirling your way through over 40wineries with over 160 wines. Your ticket includes: a souvenir wine glass, all your wine tasting,bread and cheese, food prepared by the Delta Chefs and a free taxi ride home. This event alwayssells out so buy your tickets early. May 7th and 8th. Tickets at: ticketmaster.ca or 250.860.1470Delta Grand Okanagan Resort 1310Water Street, Kelowna. Go to www.thewinefestivals.comfor information on all of the events offered this year.The Valley’s ethnic restaurant scene has exploded over the past few months. With two new In-

dian restaurants, one Chinese and one Japanese to add to our expanding repertoire – this deli-cious variety of nosh is a welcome addition to our growing list of eateries. Poppadums isKelowna’s hottest new Indian restaurant – located at 118-948 McCurdy Road, Kelowna (778)753-5563. This friendly, family run establishment invites you to Taste India! Open lunch anddinner Monday – Sunday.Beautiful Peachland has a secret to share: The Blind Angler Grill. This waterfront eatery of-

fers brunch, lunch and dinner. A diverse menu ranges from their brunch special Angler Benny toloads of tapas, burgers and steaks to curries. Signature dishes include Raspberry Chicken andSake Salmon. 5899A Beach Avenue (250) 767-9264. Reservations recommendedChef Bernard Casavant who wowed our palates at The Sonora Room Restaurant at the

stunning Burrowing Owl Winery has joined the Manteo Resort team. Now heading up thefood & beverage scene at theirWild Apple Restaurant and Lounge, Chef Bernard’s locally fo-cused new menu and signature touch are a winning the hearts of foodies and locavores alike. Staytuned for the expansion of their gorgeous lakeside patio and outdoor kitchen – sure to beKelowna’s hautest place to be this summer. 3762 Lakeshore Road (250) 860-1031.Speaking of locovores, Chef Rod Butters is offering various delights of the canned kind in his

new line of preserves and such available at his popular Kelowna eatery and local foodie hangout, Raudz Regional Table in Kelowna. www.raudz.com You can also listen to what Chef Buttersis up to on his ‘Home Plate’ Podcast.Wine drinking vegans have to go to the Edge of the Earth to find wines made with zero con-

tact with animal products – the Edge of the Earth Winery that is. Formerly known as HuntingHawk Vineyards located just North of Armstrong, owners Russ and Marni Niles who are strictvegetarians, decided to start making wines that they felt good about drinking – watch for their of-ficial launch. 250.546.2164“Don’t Panic…We have Bannock!” Located in the new Governor's Landing behind Staples on

Highway 97 inWest Kelowna, the Kekuli Café offers a menu that includes bannock – the famousfried bread that is a huge part of the First Nation culture. Available for catering as well – the menuoffers a wide array of items. 250-768-3555 Kekuli Café #505-3041 Louie Drive.Lime lovers must check out the new product line being launched in Kelowna this summer by

Henri Persaud. The magic in the Lime Peppa Sauce and Lime Garlic Sauce, originally createdover 50 years ago by his father Hardath in British Guyana, has now been bottled. HOT stuff! Goto: www.thepersaudoriginal.com for retailer locations and recipes.

What’shappeninginthe OKANAGAN?

GET BITTER (not angry)Victoria Spirits, makers of the small batch, premium Victoria Gin, havecome out with a new cocktail condiment to spice up your bar. Withbetter bitters making a comeback in the revival of classic cocktails (Readmore on bitters in “The Bitter and the Sweet” on page 42.) adding a dashor two of Twisted & Bitter to your Old Fashion is the perfect locally-sourced cocktail ingredient. I substituted Victoria Gin for bourbon inSolomon Siegel’s Old Fashion Cocktail recipe and found the aromaticorange essence of Twisted and Bitter a perfect match. Another good useis to add a few drops of this medicinal tonic to a glass of soda orsparkling water for a proven bartender remedy for the Day After. Buy online atwww.victoriaspirits.com. 100 ml bottles are $10 each,


What’shappening in TOFINO ?March on the west coast marks the start of the seasonal northward migration of grey and hump-back whales to local waters, and their annual arrival is celebrated with the Pacific Rim WhaleFestival. This festival, usually planned to coincide with March Break, has expanded over the yearsto include many food and drink centred events.The first such event is actually pre-festival - the 15th annual gala dinner and silent auction held

at the Pointe Restaurant at theWickaninnish Inn. Whale festival organizerMarla Barker saysthe Wick donates 100 per cent of the proceeds, and the festival would not be what it is withoutthis support. This year’s dinner auction is being held March 4. For tickets call the inn at 250-725-3100 ext. 222, 1-800-333-4604 or visit www.wickinn.com.The 24th annual festival officially opens on March 6 and runs until March 14. On opening day,

12 local restaurants compete for awards at the Chowder Chowdown at the Seaplane Base Recre-ation Hall in Ucluelet. The Sweet Indulgence Dessert Extravaganza is on March 8, with an arrayof homemade and chef prepared decadent treats. The Martini Migration, on March 10, is an-other popular (and usually sold-out) event, featuring both food and cocktail creations from localrestaurants. Other festival foodie events include a crepe night at the Common Loaf Bake Shop(with proceeds going to the Whale Festival), a community barbecue on Tofino’s Village Green,pancake breakfasts at the fire halls in Tofino and Ucluelet, and a traditional salmon and bannockbarbecue to close the festival March 14 at the Tin Wis Best Western Resort.Please visit www.pacificrimwhalefestival.com for events locations, ticket information and times.Shelter Restaurant will be participating in Dining out for Life on Thursday, March 25. This

evening is a fundraiser for AIDS Vancouver Island, an organization dedicated to preventing in-fection, providing support, and reducing stigma associated with the disease. Twenty-five per centof food proceeds from the night will be donated to this non-profit organization. Call 250-725-3353 or visit www.shelterrestaurant.com for details and reservations.There’s been a lot of buzz this winter about Jupiter Juicery and Bakeshop’s Curry Night. Al

Anderson and his team are offering take-out curries and samosas every Tuesday through Satur-day nights between 5-9pm. Al calls it “noodle-box style,” and I had to try it after it was describedto me as the “best food in town.” There was a choice between two Thai-style curries (red andgreen), or an Indian one. Tofu and chicken can be added, and depending on the night there mightalso be the choice of lamb, pork or beef. A Caribbean style pineapple and pork was a hot seller,but I opted for the Indian with chicken. Great flavours, the right amount of spice and hearty por-tions. And with prices ranging between $10.95-$14.95, it’s also very fitting for the wintertimebudget. Jupiter Juicery and Bakeshop is located on the lower level of the big yellow building at451 Main St (look for Westcoast Aquatic Adventures at 4th and Main, and the yellow building istucked in behind). 250-725-4226.— by Jen Dart

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liquidassets

—by La

F rench cuisine: too rich, too much butter, far too heavy, bad for the heart. I’ve heard allthe clichés.

For some, the image of stodgy, artery-clogging French food still persists. I suspect peoplewho complain about French food may be suffering from some sort of post-traumatic restau-rant experience. We’ve all had them.I was in my twenties travelling in London, England, when I had the opportunity to dine at

a swank restaurant in the renowned Savoy Hotel. It was my first fine dining experience andI ordered what I thought I could pronounce without toomuch embarrassment: Lobster Ther-mador (lobster smothered in a rich cream sauce, enriched with egg yolks and cheese). I don’tremember much about themeal, but I clearly remember how ill I felt immediately afterwards.I barely made it to the hotel lobby before breaking out in a cold sweat and collapsing in frontof my stunned companions. I didn’t try lobster again for about 20 years. But I digress …Fortunately, the era of heavy French food was all but abolished decades ago by a group of

renegade chefs who denounced heavy cuisine, and dodgy Lobster Thermador-type dishes, infavour of a lighter, healthier, more vibrant cuisine. In fact, a strict set of rules coined the “TenCommandments” defined the lighter fare: thou shall not serve artery-clogging heavy sauces;

thou shall respect the dietary needs of guests; thou shall not super-size … I’m paraphrasinghere but you get the idea. The lighter fare was later coined cuisine minceur (thin cuisine) orthe more familiar nouvelle cuisine by a couple of restaurant critics touring the French coun-tryside in the 1960s. In truth, the cuisine wasn’t really new. It was the wholesome, rustic fare(think pot au feu) cooked every day in rural homes and modest restaurants throughoutFrance.Of course, rules are meant to be broken, and even commandments can be misconstrued.

French cuisine isn’t immune to quirky food trends and the occasional step backwards. Re-member when “nouvelle cuisine” went plain stupid in the 1980s with loonie-sized food por-tions served on oversized plates decorated with cute dots of sauce dispensed from theubiquitous squeeze bottle?Food trends aside, the French are notoriously stubborn, and some peculiar recipes still en-

dure. At Le Cordon Bleu, where I studied classical French cuisine, we were taught to preparemerlan en colère, loosely translated as “pissed-off fish” (with good reason). This archaicfish recipe requires one to perversely manipulate the fish in such amanner as to force its tailthrough its gaping mouth. I don’t get it either.What does French food look like today? Well, that depends. There is good French food

and there is bad food masquerading as French food. It’s an important distinction. Just be-cause a restaurant labels a dish French, doesn’t mean it is. I recently ordered a tarte tatinwithcrème anglaise. I was served a cold apple pie with vanilla ice cream. Not even close.Good French food is many things, but it is not heavy, greasy or stodgy. It can be light and

ethereal like a bowl of crystal clear consommé. It can be inventive: the humble egg is trans-formed into an infinite variety of dishes from dramatic soufflés to lemony hollandaise sauce.It is the art of food preservation: think cured fish, duck confit and charcuterie (patés, terrinesand such). It can be both buttery and light in one heavenly bite; think freshly baked croissant.It can be refined (vichyssoise) or rustic (ratatouille). Yes, butter is still very much a part ofFrench cuisine but so are modest portions. A small but delicious meal satisfies the tummyand the soul and doesn’t leave you craving more.But French food is more than just ingredients. It’s a purposeful method of cooking that

French chefs take very seriously. The phrase most often repeated by my chefs at cookingschool was “respect zee techniques!” There are, indeed, many finicky techniques to master:from fussy vegetable cuts to sauces to strain; so much to pound, whisk and knead into sub-mission, but the end result … Well, let’s just say that once you’ve mastered a sauce madefrom homemade stock or a puff pastry made from scratch, you won’t be using pre-packagedsubstitutes anytime soon.Classical French cooking techniques can be applied to any food. Unlike some cuisines that

require exotic spices or imported ingredients, French cuisine relies simply on what is fresh,local and seasonal. It is entirely wholesome: stocks, soups and sauces do not come from abox, a can, a packet or cube; flavours are not bolstered with additives, artificial preserva-tives or colouring agents. There is no waste with French cuisine; the entire animal is used, notonly the easy-to-cook choice cuts but the entire beast “right down to the oink.” At culinaryschool, every bit of peel or trim from animal or vegetable was noted with every test. Wasteof any kind was a sign of a negligent and careless cook. You could say French cuisine is theoriginal “green” cuisine.Fortunately, you don’t have to travel all the way to France to experience authentic French

food. If you’ve ever tucked into a plate of “steak frits” at Brasserie L’ Ecole or the cassoulet-inspired “pork and beans” at Glo Europub, you’ll understand the beauty of French food with-out having to renew your passport.The next time someone tells me “French food isn’t their thing,” I’ll bite my tongue and send

them off to Choux Choux Charcuterie. A bit of pheasant paté and a crusty baguette shouldset them straight.[Denise’s recipe for Spring vegetables in a Court-Bouillon can be found at

www.eatmagazine.ca/recipe

INDEFENSEOFFRENCHCUISINEIt’s actually the original green cuisine.By Denise Marchessault

Spring vegetables in a Court-Bouillon

RebeccaW

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VERMOUTHCarpano Punt E Mes Vermouth RossoItaly $30.00-33.00Depending on whom you listen to,Vermouth, as it is known today, was in-vented by either the Germans or the Italianssometime in the sixteenth century. The orig-inal was known in German as wermutweinand was a local wine infused with thebitter herb wermut or wormwood and usedas a curative for parasites. Punt E Mes isconsidered by many to be the greatest redvermouth made today. The recipe for thismagic elixir was invented by bartenderAntonino Carpano, in 1870, during a slowcouple of hours at his bar in a blue collarneighbourhood in the heart of Piedmont,Italy. The 15 herb recipe is still a family se-cret but I can tell you this: It’s slightly sweet,it’s slightly bitter and it’s absolutelydelicious. On the rocks, my friends!

WHITEOyster Bay Marlborough Chardonnay 07New Zealand $19.00-22.00Very fresh yet fleshy and ripe! Silky andbuttery, with juicy citrus and peach flavoursand a long clean crisp finish.

Saturna Island Estate Pinot Gris 2008BC $15.00-17.00A very pleasant surprise at a recent tasting!Clean and dry with a flinty minerality andrapier like acidity, lovely peachy, appleflavours and a supple texture. Great withoysters.

REDRicossa Barbaresco 2005Italy $22.00-25.00In a province not known for its consumerfriendly pricing, this must be one of the bestwine values in British Columbia today! Ifyou love Barolo and Barbaresco but cannotafford the hefty price tag these wines usu-ally command then look no further, we havea winner here. Silky smooth with a slightlyoily texture, a bouquet redolent of violets,cherries and unimaginable earthly things,with plenty of bounce and a tannic punchthat won’t lay you out cold in the secondround and a finish that whispers little noth-ings as it fades away gently into the goodnight. Absolutely delicious with a little pieceof hard cheese!

Hillside Estate Syrah 2006BC $26.00-28.00Some of the most interesting wineproduced in British Columbia is now com-ing out of the Naramata Bench just outsideof Penticton. This is cool climate Syrah at its

best! Juicy and smoothly textured withblackberry, wild herb and mineral flavours.It is drinking beautifully right now but willcontinue to do so for many years to come.

Mt. Boucherie Summit Reserve Merlot 06BC $22.00-25.00The fruit for this deliciously polished mer-lot was sourced from vineyards in the Sim-ilkameenValley and Okanagan Falls. It is onthe inky side of the colour spectrumwith animposing nose and a powerful punch! Bal-ance and finesse, you may well ask? Yesthat too! Very impressive. It is both polishedand rustic at the same time with soft, roundtannins and an alluring complexity.

Falesco Vitiano Umbria IGT 2007Italy $19.00-22.00Vitiano is a blend of Sangiovese, CabernetSauvignon and Merlot. Nicely balanced yetvery ripe with cassis, raisin, chocolate andearth aromas that virtually jump out of theglass. Full-bodied and concentrated withrich fruit flavours, fine tannins and an ex-tremely long finish.

Prunotto Mompertone Monferrato Rosso06 Italy $27.00-30.00Not exactly a textbook blend in this part ofthe world but when a wine tastes this good,who cares? A blend of Barbera (60%) andSyrah (40%), Mompertone has finesse,power and rich, toasty blackberry, spice anddamp earth flavours. Very full-bodied andconcentrated with a hefty tannic structurethat kicks in through the finnish!

Penascal Tempranillo 2005, MagnumSpain $20.00-25.00This juicy little red from Castilla y Leon ismedium-bodied with ripe strawberry, spiceand vanilla flavours, easy going on thepalate with just enough tannin to keep it in-teresting. Great value for everyday drinking.

Yabby Lake Cooralook Pinot Noir 08Australia $21.00-23.00Medium-bodied with ripe blackberry andplum flavours, a soft and silky texture withgood concentration, nicely balanced withthe usual culprits, acidity and fine grainedtannins. The finish, yes its there and muchappreciated too.

Legado Munoz Garnacha 2008Spain $12.00-15.00Here is one that should keep your beancounter happy. Made in a slightly rusticstyle with warm earth and berry flavoursand a surprisingly rich texture given thehumble price point. Nicely balanced withfinish that gets you thinking about howmuch you need to pay in this province for apleasant bottle wine and a loaf of bread.


liquidassets

—by Larry Arnold

Hester Creek Estate Winery and VillaWine Shop open daily at 10:00 amRoad #8, just South of Oliver, BCPhone 250 498 4435 www.hestercreek.com

LOVE WHAT WE DOIN THE HEART OF THE GOLDEN MILE BENCH

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O ne of Vancouver Island’s newer winemakers, Averill Creek owner Andy Johnston, isalso one of the biggest proponents of the great winemade here.While other islandwineries have been almost apologetic about being based here, augmenting their es-

tate-grown offerings with winesmade fromOkanagan grapes, he proudly trumpets his estate-grown selection and uses nothing but grapes grown on his nearly 30-acre Cowichan Valleyvineyard on Mount Prevost, northwest of Duncan.“I think the future of [the Vancouver Island wine] industry has to be based on growing our

own grapes and creating our own identity,” he proudly states. “For me, the only way you cango that makes any kind of business sense is to grow your grapes, make your wine. I’m reallyquite militant about that.”Johnston, a physician and one of the founders of Medicentres, the first primary-care walk-

in centres in Canada, is truly putting his money where his mouth is in this regard. Since pur-chasing the land in 2001, he has spared no effort to do things right—from taking great painsto prep the land for vines to putting in a top-quality, gravity-fed winery. “I did go in with a verysolid business plan,” he says, “with my own independent funding. That’s crucial. A lot ofpeople have come into it bit by bit and that’s a very difficult way to go.”But Johnston didn’t come to Vancouver Island simply with a business plan. He brought a

passion for wine fostered by numerous stints working in wineries in France, Italy, New Zealandand Australia where he honed his viniculture and viticulture skills along the way. Though heinitially looked into starting a winery in the Okanagan, the Cowichan Valley, as it turns out,was a much better fit all around. “This was to me a brand-new oenological area which hadincredible potential,” he says, “and the land was cheap. In the Okanagan, you’re looking at$30,000-$75,000 an acre and you can’t find good acreage anymore. My land was $7,000 anacre.”Averill Creek’s first harvest in 2004—on his original 15-acre vineyard—was a scant seven

tonnes of Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, a little bit of Merlot and Gewürtztraminer. The following year,he planted Marechal Foch and a Marechal Foch-Cabernet Sauvignon hybrid (one of the Blat-tner varieties that Roger Dosman at Alderlea is also very enthusiastic about). That same yearhe upped his acreage under vine to 29. In the ensuing vintages, both the quality and quan-tity have continually improved as the vines began to mature. In the 2009 harvest in October,those 29 acres yielded a whopping 85 tonnes of “top-quality product,” 22 tonnes of whichwere Pinot Noir. “We’re going to be making 1,500 cases of top-end Pinot Noir for release in2011,” he says, with no small amount of pride. “We’ve really come a long way.”Johnston’s estimated Pinot Noir production for 2011 comes close to rivalling the total pro-

duction of some of his well-established neighbours who, of course, have much fewer acresunder vine. “We’re certainly, by far, the biggest [in the Cowichan Valley],” he says. “There’snobody close as far as the volume of product we’re actually growing.” And as the vines con-

tinue tomature and his own skills in vineyardmanagement continue to improve, Johnston an-ticipates the steep increase in production to continue. “We had 3,800 cases for sale in 2009,”he explains. “Next year we’ll be 5,000-plus, in 2011 we’ll be 7,000-plus, and [we may] pushthe 10,000-case mark within three to five years.”Though he’s only been making wine on Vancouver Island for six years, Johnston not only

believes there is great potential here, he also believes that part of that potential lies in thefact that there is an identifiable Vancouver Island profile to be found in the locally madewines, particularly the Pinot Noirs. “There is a strong Cowichan Valley Pinot Noir identitywhich is very pronounced black cherry flavour,” he posits. “You can see this in Roger Dos-man’s, mine, Venturi-Schulze, Blue Grouse. You can pick [these wines] out in a tasting andknow [they’re] Cowichan Valley Pinot Noir. I think that’s very exciting for us to have that kindof identity.”Johnston intends to do his part to help increase the region’s notoriety. The first few vin-

tages of his Pinot Noir have been well received and he has accordingly set his heights highfor what he hopes to achieve. “Simply the best Pinot Noir in Canada, for me, that’s my goal,”he says, “and I think we’re well on our way to doing it now. There’s a lovely progressionthrough our Pinot Noirs from 2004 to 2008 and you can see the wine developing as the vinesget older. We will be making some of the best Pinot Noirs in Canada on this site. There’s noquestion in my mind about that. It’s my raison d’être.”

WINEDOCTORAverill Creek winemaker Andy Johnson left asuccessful career as a medical doctor to pursue adream of making the best Pinot Noir in Canada.

WINE ISLANDS —By Adem Tepedelen

Open 7 days a week

5325 Cordova Bay Rd.250-658-3116

Our service can best be described as“Knowledgeable,yet not pretentious……approachable,

with a hint of sass!”

THE SPRING RELEASES ARE HERE!

a tMATTICK’S FARM

www.matticksfarm.com

VVQQAA WWiinnee SShhooppPick Your New Favourite Wine

Best Vintages: 2005 and 2006Tasting Room Hours:Wednesday-Sunday, 11 a.m.–5 p.m.; or by appointment.Web: www.averillcreek.caPhone: 250-709-9986Address: 6552 North Rd., Duncan, B.C. V9L 6K9

Averill Creek Vertical Tasting

SIPS sommelier Elise Love

Sommelier Elise Love and winemaker Andy Johnson hosted avertical tasting of Averill Creek pinot gris and pinot noir at SipsArtisan Bistro.Averill Creek, a Cowichan Valley winery, is known for its excellent

pinot wines. We tasted both the gris and noir from the 2005, ’06and ’07 vintages. The ’05 gris, which had been produced sur lieand gone through malolactic fermentation was very complex withbalanced acidity, the ’06, from a hot year, showed riper fruit and afuller body. The ’07 from the disastrous cold and wet year, was freshwith peach and citrus aromas. “It was good to learn that even inour most disastrous year we are able to produce pinot gris withgood structure and minerality,” said Johnson.Johnson described the ’05 pinot noir has having a textbook pinot

noir nose of “black cherry, hints of leather, tobacco and violets”.The ’06, and ’07 noirs displayed more core structure with the ’06showing cherry and a smokiness while the ‘07 was still young butpromising. All the wines are available for sale at the winery.Sips Artisan Bistro, 425 Simcoe St,. Victoria, 250-590-3519


Johnston an-sale in 2009,”we may] push

ston not onlyial lies in thelocally madeNoir identityn Roger Dos-a tasting andave that kind

first few vin-heights highat’s my goal,”progressiong as the vinese. There’s no

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Like that popular girl at school who was intelligent, beautiful, witty ANDnice, Argentina has the cards stacked highly in her favour. Besides stun-ning scenery, a rich culture and a distinct style of music and dance, in re-cent years, the country has also been producing fantastic wines. If thisisn’t enough, a charming, unpretentious food culture mirrors the warmthand gusto of the Argentines themselves. Only the most hard-hearted

could resist being seduced.When it comes to producing wine, Argentina is particularly blessed. Separated from Chile

by the Andes, this imposing mountain range plays an important role in defining the wine re-gion. At Masi Tupungato we try hard to concentrate on tasting the wines, but it is difficultnot to get distracted. Directly in front of us the Andes loom proud andmesmerizing, like a Hol-lywood backdrop. Reaching heights of almost 7,000 metres, these omnipresent giants stopthe wet weather from the Pacific entering the country, creating a semi-desert environment.Without water, only dry scrubby brush can survive. During our spring visit, the vibrant yel-

low jarilla is in full bloom. This is Argentina’s version of the French garrigue, and its pervasiveheady scent is almost as distracting as the site of the Andes. Amid this arid and thirsty land-scape, wineries pop up like oases in the desert. Irrigation is absolutely necessary to growgrapes and the snow-cappedmountains provide the water.Where rain plagues somany otherwine regions, growers in Argentina can relax. There’s no need to rush to harvest grapes andthe threat of disease and rot is virtually non-existent.In the region of Mendoza, where 70 percent of Argentina’s wine is produce, the air is clean

and the sun is fierce and unforgiving. Even we who are avid sun seekers take refuge underhats and in the shade to avoid being scorched – it can happen in mereminutes.We also haveto remind ourselves that we are hundreds of metres above sea level. The terrain is surpris-ingly flat, rising only gradually from 500 to 1,500 metres. High altitude is crucial to the qual-ity of the wines. Though it is intensely hot during the day, when the sun goes down it isdecidedly chilly. Producers bandy around the phrase “thermal amplitude” (a good expressionto remember if you want to impress). It describes the extreme difference between day andnight time temperatures. At the highest sites, like Catena’s Adrianna Vineyard at 1,500 me-tres, the variance can be as much as 20° Celsius. The cool nights allow the grapes to retainacidity even with their incredible ripeness.Just to prove that you really can’t have it all, hail is the biggest threat dogging vineyards.

Due to its size, it is often referred to as piedra, meaning stone. Hail typically falls in the hottestmonths of January and February and the damage can be devastating, namely partial or en-tire loss of crop. To protect the vines, most wineries invest heavily in netting. A sea of blackwebs adds to the drama of the panorama.Despite all of Argentina’s attributes, her potential has only very recently been recognized.

Years of economic and political struggle have hindered progress. The magnitude of innova-tion and investment in both the vineyard and wineries has made a huge impact in a shortamount of time. Local pioneers, like the Catena family, as well as outside money and ex-pertise have jointly propelled quality. Top names from all over the world like Michel Rollandand Lurton from France, Sogrape from Portugal, Masi from Italy, Paul Hobbs from Californiaand Concha y Toro from Chile all have projects here, just to name a few. The modern Argen-tinean wine industry is like the bomb that has just exploded but we have yet to feel all theafter effects.The star of Argentina is of courseMalbec. Originally from France, where it is a minor blend-

ing component in Bordeaux and plays amajor role in the lesser-known region of Cahors, Mal-bec had to leave its homeland to find fame. This grape has adapted to Argentina’s uniqueclimate to such an extent that you would think it wasMalbec’s mother country.Wine drinkersaround the world can’t seem to get enough of it. In BC alone, sales of Argentinean wine haveincreased about 700 percent in the past six years, most of which is Malbec. As people moveaway from overwhelming fruit bombs, Malbec has sashayed in with the confident and skilledsteps of a tango dancer to provide a welcome alternative.Winemaker Luís Cabral de Almeidafrom Finca Flichman describes it as a “friendly varietal for the producer, friendly for the wine-maker and definitely friendly for the consumer.” We would also add food-friendly.What is not to love about this deeply coloured red with soft tannin and plenty of fruit? We

have succumbed toMalbec’s immediate charms and it only gets better from there. This super-model has personality and a range of expression. Depending on where it is planted, Malbec

takes on a different character. The mostrecognized style is rich, fruit-forward andjuicy with a supple texture and lots ofblack fruit, typical of warmer areas at (rel-atively) lower altitudes. However, athigher elevations, Malbec’s floral andsavoury side comes through. The winesshow more restraint, elegance and min-erality and have a particularly refreshingacidity. While some producers blendgrapes from different altitudes to capturethe various expressions, others are fo-cusing on single sites to highlight theirspecific character. In terms of altitude,the UcoValley is the latest hype. A coupleof hours drive to the southwest of the cityof Mendoza, it is closer to the Andes with overall higher elevations. Until about 15 years ago,the Uco Valley was considered too cold to ripen grapes. The sub-region of Tupungato boastsMendoza’s highest vineyards.Malbec’s affinity with food is a vital part of its appeal. In Argentina, enjoying wine with food

is entrenched in the culture. Malbec and steak? Talk about a regional match! The traditionalbarbecue meal is called an asado and we partake twice a day. Everyone has a grill; not amere Hibachi but an enormous outside range. Steak always takes centre stage, as it should.Make sure you ask for it jugosa or juicy to ensure that it is medium-rare. Blood sausages,chorizo, ribs, chicken, peppers, eggplant and delicious empanadas cook alongside. Themouth-watering smell of grilled meat constantly lingers in the air. Francis Mallmann’s restau-rant 1884 in Mendoza is an absolute must; we enjoyed the single best steak of our entirelives while listening to the powerful and poignant voice of Mercedes Sosa. Lunch at wineryrestaurants Zuccardi and Melipal are also top-notch.Beyond the classics of Malbec and meat, Argentina has plenty of tricks up her sleeve. Her

flagship white is Torrontés. This widely planted aromatic grape has great promise, though itis too often treated as an afterthought. The best combine traits of Muscat and Albariño withgood freshness and sometimes even a saline quality. While it is grown to a certain extent inMendoza, the region of Salta in the extreme north of Argentina has had a longer history withTorrontés. Altitudes here can be even higher than in Mendoza and it has proven to be thebest area for its production.At the other extreme of the country, in the far south, the cooler region of Patagonia is par-

ticularly exciting, but plantings are still limited. It sits at lower altitudes but enjoys a similardiurnal temperature variation asMendoza. The season is shorter, favouring refreshing whites,sparkling wines and bright Pinot Noirs. Malbecs from Patagonia tend to be less fruit-forwardthan the warmer regions of Mendoza.Many other grape varieties wait in the wings with some making limited appearances here

in B.C. Bonarda is Argentina’s secondmost planted red, and during our visit we were on amis-sion to try asmany as possible. Sadly, fewwere offered and even fewermake it to our shelves.Do keep an eye out for the Bonarda-based wines from producers La Posta and Tikal. Syrah,on the other hand, is clearly the new darling following hot on the heels of Malbec. This grapedoes particularly well when planted at higher altitudes. Surprisingly, so does Pinot Noir; atleast Zorzal’s convinced us. Veneto producer Masi has found a second home for Italian grapevariety Corvina. The arid conditions in Tupungato make it very easy to dry the grapes for anAmarone style of wine. As for whites, Mendel’s Sémillon was the highlight of our trip, butvineyard manager and oenologist Santiago Mayorga Boaknin explains that theirs is one offew. This grape is usually relegated to sparkling wine production. Friulano suffers a similarfate where much is planted but little is done with it. Lurton demonstrates that the grape canproduce an interesting wine when planted at higher altitudes. Similar conditions apply toChardonnay, Pinot Grigio and Viognier. We tasted fantastic examples of all three.With gorgeous vistas, pungent flora, flavourful cuisine and evocative music, Argentina ap-

peals as much to the senses as the emotions. When you thirst for this intensity, simply opena bottle of Malbec and turn up the haunting music of bandoneonist Astor Piazzolla. In notime you will be imagining yourself embroiled in a steamy tango.


Olé Argentina!The country’s wine industry has exploded, but wine loversare just beginning to sample the tasty fallout.

ArgeThe initialsInternational

WHITE2008 BodegaRefreshing an

2009 SusanaFresh vibrantwith penetrat

*2007 Luca ChLuca is ownedfrom high upGenerous andComplex with

RED2008 TriventoRipe cherry anperfect party

2008 Finca FlSimple, well-mVisit their tab

2007 La PostaSixty-percentplums with allson yet?

2006 RenacerRich and deepanced with nic

*2007 SchroeSeductive witNice silky textThe Familia Sc

*2009 Zorzal,Across the boberries and jaintriguing andthe glass. (VP

*2006 Gran LReminiscent ospeaks of a cogentines drinknating 2007 G

*2005 Enzo BPronounced agreat concentful. Move ove

*2007 MendeAttractive bloImpressive cokeep on impropraying that t

2006 CatenaA blend of gradiately then gdensity, firm taMalbec. Approour coup de c

*Available at

WINE & TERROIR —By Michaela Morris and Michelle Bouffard

Photo

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Francisco Richardi, oenologistat Finca Agostina holding jarilla blooms

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ine with foodhe traditionala grill; not aas it should.od sausages,ongside. Theann’s restau-of our entirench at winery

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arances herewere on amis-o our shelves.Tikal. Syrah,ec. This grapePinot Noir; atItalian grapegrapes for anour trip, buteirs is one offers a similarhe grape canons apply toe.Argentina ap-simply openazzolla. In no


ArgentinaTastingNotesThe initials VPIWF indicate wines or wineries that will be featured at the VancouverInternational Playhouse Wine Festival, April 19-15, 2010.

WHITE2008 Bodega Norton ‘Lo Tengo’ Torrontés, $13.99-$15 (SKU #365890)Refreshing and pretty. A good one to keep in the fridge as the weather warms up. (VPIWF)

2009 Susana Balbo ‘Crios’ Torrontés, $18.99-$21 (SKU #769125)Fresh vibrant lime zest and orange blossom aromas. Very floral on the nose and palate. So zestywith penetrating grapefruit and saline notes. A great match with Thai food.

*2007 Luca Chardonnay, Altos de Mendoza, $38-$43Luca is owned by Laura Catena, daughter of the trailblazing Nicolás Catena. The grapes comefrom high up in Tugungato. Definitely one of the best Chardonnays we’ve had from Argentina.Generous and luscious with ripe pineapple and pleasant lemony, buttery and hazelnut notes.Complex with a long lingering finish.

RED2008 Trivento, Syrah Reserve, Mendoza, $12.25-$14.25 (SKU #51219)Ripe cherry and vanilla notes burst from this fruit-forward gem. Rich, round and balanced, it’s theperfect party wine. Visit their table at the Vancouver International Playhouse Wine Festival.

2008 Finca Flichman ‘Misterio’ Malbec, $12.99-$15 (SKU #757245)Simple, well-made and friendly. Lovely violets and blue plums. An exceptionally priced Malbec.Visit their table at the VPIWF.

2007 La Posta, Cocina Blend, Mendoza, $17.99-$23 (SKU# 779520)Sixty-percent Malbec with equal parts Bonarda and Syrah to round out the blend. Cherries andplums with alluring vanilla and spice notes. Supple texture and a juicy finish. Is it barbecue sea-son yet?

2006 Renacer ‘Punto Final’ Reserva Malbec $27.99-$31 (SKU #257071)Rich and deep dark aromas of black licorice and dark plum. Sweet ripe fruit, intense yet bal-anced with nice lifted floral notes. A crowd pleaser. Drink with or without food. (VPIWF)

*2007 Schroeder ‘Saurus’ Select Pinot Noir, Patagonia, $29-$34Seductive with great purity of fruit. Flavours of strawberries and fresh herbs with good acidity.Nice silky texture. The price is especially appealing. A treat with our local salmon. (VPIWF)The Familia Schroeder ‘Deseado’ sparkling Torrontés is also a must-try.

*2009 Zorzal, Pinot Noir Reserva, Gualtallary, Mendoza, $33-$38Across the board, this winery was a great discovery for us. Lifted aromas of peppercorn, straw-berries and jarilla.Wild and gameywith generous strawberry and cherry notes on the palate. Veryintriguing and an interesting expression of Pinot Noir. Give it some time either in the cellar or inthe glass. (VPIWF) Don’t miss the 2009 Zorzal Malbec either.

*2006 Gran Lurton, Cabernet Sauvignon, Mendoza, $34-$38Reminiscent of Bordeaux: cassis, cigar box and tobacco with a hint of green pepper. Definitelyspeaks of a cooler climate. Very savoury with bright fresh flavours and serious structure. The Ar-gentines drink it with steak; we would pair it with local lamb. (VPIWF) Be sure to try the fasci-nating 2007 Gran Lurton, Corte Friulano as well.

*2005 Enzo Bianchi, Cabernet Sauvignon, Mendoza, $39-$44Pronounced and appealing aromas of leather and wild blackcurrant. Earthy with firm tannin,great concentration of flavours and nice mineral undertones. Very pure, elegant and character-ful. Move over Bordeaux! Put away for a few years; you will be rewarded. (VPIWF)

*2007 Mendel, Malbec, Mendoza, $42-$48Attractive blood and iron aromas; smells like grilled steak. All stony and mineral on the palate.Impressive concentration of flavours balanced by a firm structure akin to the Old World. Willkeep on improving over the next five years. Grilled steak would indeed be appropriate. We arepraying that the 2009 Mendel Sémillon will make it to our market soon as well.

2006 Catena Alta, Malbec, Mendoza, $54-$59 (SKU #521849)A blend of grapes from vineyards at different altitudes. Red fruit jumps out of the glass imme-diately then gives way to complex aromas of grilled herbs, sweet spice and wild flowers. Greatdensity, firm tannin and bright acidity. (VPIWF) Also look out for the 2006 Catena Zapata AdriannaMalbec. Approximately $90 but one of the most elegant Malbecs Argentina has to offer. It wasour coup de coeur.

*Available at private wine stores only. Prices may vary.

Photo

byB

ouffard&

Morris

enologistjarilla blooms

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The Bitter and the SweetCocktail bitters are back, and they’re better.

THE MIXOLOGIST By Solomon Siegel

Bitterness is bad. That is, at least, mostpeople’s gut reaction to bitterness, themost sensitive of our five basic tastes(bitter, sour, sweet, salt and umami, orsavoury). Our pallets evolved this wayto stop us from eating toxic leaves,which taste bitter. However, bitters arethe spice of the cocktail world.Bitters started off life as medicine. As

far back as Hippocrates, medicine menand women have been steeping bitterherbs in alcohol to cure what ails you;herbs such as gentian root, wormwood,citrus peal, cinchona bark (quinine), ju-niper, cacao and coffee, as well as somereally toxic stuff. In the early 1800s,peddlers were selling bitters as cure-alls. Around 100 proof, they were in-

deed a great antidote to the morning after. Put a couple dashes of bitters in your morningbrandy with some sugar and water to take the edge off, and the cocktail is born.The first definition of the cocktail appeared in 1806 in a Hudson, New York, newspaper

called The Balance and Columbian Repository. The editor’s reply to a reader’s query aboutthe unfamiliar term “cock tail” defined it as “a stimulating liquor, composed of spirits ofany kind, sugar, water and bitters.” Bitters were the key ingredient. On their own, spirit,sugar and water was at that time called a “sling. In 1806, then, a cocktail was a very spe-cific drink.And the cocktail was a hit! Bartenders started making their own bitters to add to cock-

tails or to drink unaccompanied. Nowadays we speak of aromatic bitters such as angos-tura, used by the dash in certain drinks. Or fruit bitters like orange bitters, cherry and evencelery. Potable bitters can be drunk on their own or mixed, like Fernet Branca, Campariand Jägermister.During prohibition, many old commercial brands of bitters disappeared and bar tending

became an outlawed profession. Quality becamemuch less of an issue than the existenceof liquor at all. So, for much of the 20th century, cocktails were just about covering up thetaste of alcohol, and bitters were not needed. Now things have come full circle, andmixol-ogists have back bars teaming with little dropper bottles of bitters. Many have even startedmaking their own, like Shawn Soole (theliquidrevolution.com), who says, “I like to makemy own bitters to specifically go into certain drinks.Weird flavours that you can work withcertain drinks but can’t source yourself through normal channels.”So where is the original cocktail today? In a drink we call the Old Fashion. Though there

aremany theories on where the name comes from, I believe people in that latter half of the19th century were ordering “a whiskey cocktail, the old fashion way.”Out of the simple cocktail, or “old fashion,” we see the birth of many great drinks, some

labelled fancy or improved by straining out the ice and adding drops of absinthe, lemonjuice or liqueurs. Vermouth was added to the cocktail and theManhattan andmartini wereborn.Mixologists in Canada can have a hard time tracking down their bitters. Some are easy

like angostura, which are on the shelves of many corner stores. Others need to be orderedonline on sites such as cocktailkingdom.com and kegworks.com.

A well-stocked bar ready to make anOld Fashion Cocktail

60 mL bourbon (or other spirit)15 mL-25 mL simple syrup2-4 dashes of angostura bittersGarnish: thin lemon or orange twistGlass: old fashion

To make simple syrup: Add sugar inequal parts to hot but not boiling water.Stir until sugar totally dissolves. Allow to

cool. May be stored for about a month.Add simple syrup and bitter to the bot-tom of an old fashion glass. Fill with iceand add bourbon, stir until ice meltsbelow the bourbon. Add more ice and stirfor another 30 seconds. Pour a littlemore bourbon on top of the ice foraroma. Twist your lemon twist over top ofthe glass and drop in. Smile.

Old Fashion Cocktail

For a new take on a whisky cocktail, the Choke & Rye, created by Solomon go towww.EatMagazine.ca

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EAT Magazine March | April 2010