Eat magazine march | april 2015

®

Smart. Local. Delicious.

CELEBRATING 16 YEARS OF GOOD FOOD & DRINK

RESTAURANTS | RECIPES | WINES | FOOD | TRAVELM

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CH | A

PRILl 2015 |Issue 19-02 | eatm

agazine.ca

Spicy Prawn Lettuce Cups

EAT Magazine March_Apr 2015_Victoria_48_Layout 1 2/27/15 3:35 PM Page 1


&Kale Dip

Hot

Visit thriftyfoods.com/recipes for more Kale inspired creations!

3www.eatmagazine.ca MARCH | APRIL 2015

contentSmart. Local. Delicious.

Wrap ’n’ RollMakanek Wrap

(Lebanese beef sausagewith parsley, lettuce,tomato and pickled

turnip and mayo. Pg 19photo by E. Nyland

DEPARTMENTS06 FROM THE EDITOR

g Food07 CONCIERGE DESKMonthly calendar of events + festivals

09 Food MattersJulie Pegg goes Irish.

10 Good For YouLegumes

12 Get FreshWild spring mushroms

13 Epicure At LargeChinese breaded almond chicken

g Restaurants14 ReporterCactus Club, The Oaks, Stage, Unsworth

18 Eating Well For LessMai Mai’s, Marys Bleue Moon Café, Wrap ‘n’ Roll

20 SymposiumsTerroir 2015

g Features22 Ramen Pop-UpJon Johnson is embedded in one crazy night

24 Victoria Beer WeekSisters of the Tap

28 The 5th Exceptional Eats! AwardsResults

g Recipes34 Local KitchenSpicy Prawn Lettuce Cups, Chai Churros

gWine & Beer21 Cocktail of the MonthOn trend with shrubs38 VincabularyProlific Tempranillo 39 Beer & a BiteTofino Brewing Blonde Ale and fish and chips

40 Wine + TerroirItalian grape varieties

42 Wine & Food PairingDishes from two top Australian restaurants

43 Liquid AssetsLarry Arnold recommends10 wines

g Community37 What the Pros Know: Specialty stores38 The Buzz: All the news that fit to print...and then some


4 EAT MAGAZINE MARCH | APRIL 2015

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5

EATFOUNDER & EDITOR Gary Hynes

PUBLISHER Pacific Island GourmetASSISTANT EDITOR Colin Hynes

CONTRIBUTING EDITOR Carolyn Bateman VANCOUVER CONTRIBUTING EDITOR Julie Pegg

DRINK EDITOR Treve RingSENIOR WINE WRITER Larry Arnold

ART DIRECTION Gary HynesCOPYEDITORS Cynthia Annett, Jon Johnson

REGIONAL REPORTERSTofino | Ucluelet Jen Dart | Victoria Rebecca Baugniet | Cowichan Valley-Up IslandKirsten Tyler

CONTRIBUTORSLarry Arnold, Joseph Blake, Michelle Bouffard, Holly Brooke, Adam Cantor, Cinda Chavich, JohnCrawford, Jennifer Danter, Pam Durkin, Gillie Easdon, Jeremy Ferguson, Colin Hynes, Jon Johnson, SolKaufman, Tracey Kusiewicz, Sophie MacKenzie, Sherri Martin, Elizabeth Monk, Michaela Morris, SimonNattrass, Elizabeth Nyland, Tim Pawsey, Julie Pegg, Treve Ring, Kaitlyn Rosenburg, AdrienSala, Michael Tourigny, Sylvia Weinstock, Rebecca Wellman.

Cover photography by Michael Tourigny

Since 1998 | EAT Magazine is published six times each year. No part of this publication may be reproduced with-

out the written consent of the publisher. Although every effort is taken to ensure accuracy, Pacific Island Gourmet

Publishing cannot be held responsible for any errors or omissions that may occur. All opinions expressed in the

articles are those of the writers and not necessarily those of the publisher. Pacific Island Gourmet reserves the right

to refuse any advertisement. All rights reserved.

OUR ETHICAL GUIDING PRINCIPALS1. EAT has advertisers in our magazine and on our website; they are our primary source of income. Our company,

Pacific Island Gourmet, employs a dedicated advertising team responsible for selling ad space in EAT and on

EatMagazine.ca. The EAT editorial team does not accept money or other consideration from companies as a

condition or incentive to write a review or story. All editorial content on EAT is based on the editor’s discretion, not

on the desire of any company, advertiser or PR firm. Occasionally EAT and EatMagazine.ca may publish sponsor

content, which will be labelled.

2. EAT contributors are not allowed to ask for free meals or drinks. Anyone identifying themselves as being on

assignment for EAT will be able to prove their employment.

ADVERTISING DIRECTOR Gary HynesSENIOR ACCOUNT MANAGER Susan Worrall

DIRECTOR OF BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT Lindsay Van GynVANCOUVER SALES Clevers Media

HOW TO REACH EAT MAGAZINEADVERTISING 250.384.9042, [email protected]

WEBSITE EatMagazine.ca

MAILING ADDRESS Box 5225, Victoria, BC, V8R 6N4

TEL 250.384.9042 EMAIL [email protected] PICK-UP THE MAGAZINE EAT is delivered to over 300 pick-up locations in BC includingVictoria & Vancouver, Vancouver Island. Visit our website for locations

Publisher Pacific Island Gourmet | EAT ® is a registered trademark.

www.eatmagazine.ca MARCH | APRIL 2015


THIS IS OUR 5TH EXCEPTIONAL EATS! AWARDS ISSUE.I always look forward to it because I can dine off the results formonths. Who makes the best baguette? What’s the most uniquedish being cooked in Victoria? I want to know the beer that tookthe year and which sandwich place garnered the top spot, as wellas who won in the best new restaurant category. So look for me.I’ll be out there buying the bread, visiting the restaurants,placing my order for a new taste experience, filling my fridge withwinning beer, and hungrily eating that sandwich. Although only the top pick in each category is published (and

a runner-up if it was close), I wish I could share each reader’s listof favourites. EAT readers are a smart bunch and seeing who and

what they vote for in the survey can open up a world of new possibilities. For instance,a restaurant might not tally the most votes, but I like that there are readers out therevoting for them, eating there, and recognizing their excellence. I’m energized to get outand try them all. As we were tabulating the votes for Dish of the Year, I was amazed atthe huge variety of interesting dishes. I can’t wait to get started on my to-do—must-

eat—list. I hope you, too, will take inspiration from the results.Elsewhere in the magazine, there’s plenty to read and some wonderful and

mouthwatering photographs to look at. I suggest you start with the recipe section. Thisissue we bring you a light and refreshing, yet spicy, lettuce wrap that uses just-in-seasonspot prawns from Vancouver Island waters—perfect after a long winter of braises. Andour take on churros is unique. While we have a chocolate dipping sauce, of course, wealso use fresh from the garden rhubarb to make a lighter, fresher, more tart sauce—notto be missed. This year EAT is a sponsor of Victoria Beer Week. Only in its second year, the festival

is already garnering much attention and interest—even from as far away as Toronto,where it’s being discovered that British Columbia is not just Vancouver. We have avibrant craft beer community on Vancouver Island, and seeing everyone rally aroundthis event is inspiring. We are looking forward to meeting everyone and trying theirinnovative brews. Look for a day-by-day account of Victoria Beer Week on the EATwebsite by our team of web writers. They’ll be attending the events and sampling thebeers and ales. Hell, someone’s got to do!As always bon appétit and happy eating and drinking. —Gary Hynes, Editor.

Editor’s Note


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CONCIERGEBy Rebecca Baugniet

MarchVICTORIA BEER WEEK (Victoria)Victoria Beer Week is a nine-day series of events highlighting a broad selection of BCcraft breweries while educating greater Victoria residents about craft beer. The week isbookended with large events that pair BC craft beer with local Victoria artisan foodvendors, with a clear focus on showcasing quality BC craft beer and educating beerenthusiasts. Smaller tastings, seminars, movies and micro-events happen at variousvenues throughout the week. Mar 7-15 (www.victoriabeerweek.com)

PICA SPRING BREAK TEEN CULINARY BOOT CAMP (Vancouver)Spring break is a wonderful time for teens to be immersed in fun, educational activi-ties outside of school. At the Pacific Institute of Culinary Arts, your budding chef canparticipate in a week of food and fun as they dive into a completely hands-on, week-long course with a professional chef instructor. Includes all supplies and ingredientsand Pacific Institute of Culinary Arts' logo apron. Mar 16-20. $475. (www.picachef.com)

CULINAIRE (Victoria)The sixth annual Culinaire event will provide Victorians the opportunity to savoursignature menu items and inspired dishes from an abundant selection of restaurants,lounges, pubs, cafes, specialty food producers, and sip from a fine selection of local andregional wines and craft beers. Proceeds benefit the annual scholarship program atCamosun College’s Culinary Arts Program. Mar 19. For full event details and a currentlist of who will be presenting visit www.culinairevictoria.com.

19TH ANNUAL CHOWDER CHOWDOWN (Ucluelet)Sample the best of the Pacific Northwest from local chefs. Gourmet secrets, mom andpop specials and traditional family recipes. Have a taste of numerous samples andflavours. Presented in partnership with District of Ucluelet Rec Commission andDepartment. Mar 22. (www.pacificrimwhalefestival.com)

9TH ANNUAL DINING OUT FOR LIFE (Vancouver and Whistler)Make a difference — dine out and support people living with HIV/AIDS on Tuesday,March 26. Dining Out For Life is BC’s largest restaurant fundraiser, benefiting ALoving Spoonful and Friends For Life. Visit www.diningoutforlife.com for a list ofparticipating restaurants.

AprilMOSS STREET MARKET’S MINI-MARKETS (Victoria)Every Saturday in April, half-markets will take place from 10am-noon at the corner ofMoss St. and Fairfield Road. (www.mossstreetmarket.com)

FRASER VALLEY FOOD TRUCK FESTIVAL (Abbotsford)Twenty food trucks, an artisan market, family fun entertainment, live music and abeer garden! $2.00 at the door (free for kids). 11:00 am-5:00 pm. Apr 4.(www.fraservalleyfoodtruck.com)

OKANAGAN FEST-OF-ALE (Penticton) Since 1996 the Okanagan Fest-of-Ale Society Consumer Tasting has been bringing beerlovers and brewers together to celebrate the almighty ale at one of the biggest andlong-standing beer fests in North America. The event offers a great mix of live enter-tainment and fare from some great local restaurateurs. With over 30 brewers and 90products expected at this year's event, there is something for everyone. Apr 10-11.(www.fest-of-ale.bc.ca)




The Oh She GlowsCookbook

The massive surge of interestin a return to real, whole-food eating in a world

oversaturated with processed,nutritionally vacant fast foods hasushered in a wave of fantastic,plantbased cookbooks full ofrecipes for easy, delicious, andhugely healthy food. It’s nosurprise that these have been someof the biggest selling titles of recentyears, and Angela Liddon’s Oh SheGlows Cookbook is no exception.This bestseller has been flying offthe shelves for months, and it’s notnecessary to look far to find outwhy.

After years spent battling an eating disorder, Liddon decided it was time tokick processed, artificial foods and adopt a wholefoods based diet consistingof plenty of fruits, vegetables, and nuts. The resulting transformation in herhealth and happiness inspired her to start the Oh She Glows blog now oneof the biggest vegan eating blogs online to share her revelation with theworld. On the heels of the blog’s success came the cookbook.The Oh She Glows Cookbook features page after page of instantly mouth-

watering, simple, and healthy recipes. Even the cover the Mighty ChiaPudding Parfait was almost enough to sell me on this book before I’d crackedthe cover. But trust me, it’s well worth the while to crack the cover. Everymeal of the day is covered breakfasts, dinners, lunch, dessert nothing is leftout. And they’re all delicious, filling, inexpensive to put together, andpacked with the health and vitality affirming nutrients that you can reallyonly get from wholefood eating. If you suffer from a food allergy, there arelots of great recipes in here featuring glutenfree options, as well as a varietyof other common food allergens.Liddon’s realization that unprocessed, healthy food is an important key

to both looking good and feeling good is at the heart of what makes Oh SheGlows so great. What we eat matters. Grab a copy of this cookbook anddiscover that for yourself.

by Angela Liddon

The Oh She Glows Cookbookis available at Bolen Books for $29.00

111-1644 Hillside Ave., Victoriawww.bolen.bc.ca(250) 595-4232

EAT SPECIAL PROMOTION

12TH ANNUAL OTTAVIO ANNUAL BIG CHEESE CUT (Oak Bay)Come see the kitchen boys and girls of Ottavio cut the largest wheels of cheese madein the world today. Watch as they crack, cut and slice their way through the world’soldest cheeses. Learn about the animals and families that have produced thesebeauties for generations. Taste the history and tradition of the cheese making craft.They will be starting with some smaller wheels of artisan cheeses from Quebec andmove through to the Italian king, Parmigiano Reggiano, and up to the 225 kgbehemoth, the organic, Swiss mountain Emmenthal. Samplings and specials on allcheeses cut. A great free event for the whole family. Apr 25. (www.ottaviovictoria.com)

ART ‘N FACTS OF WINE (Victoria)Taste the enchanting array of spring wine releases from Naramata Bench Wineries,along with delectable food samples from Victoria’s finest chefs, charcuteries, cheeseshops and bakeries, at this exclusive event. Meet the winemakers and learn about theart of wine from this unique and highly regarded terroir in BC’s Okanagan Valley, allin support of the programs and exhibitions at the Royal British Columbia Museum,through the Royal BC Museum Foundation. Apr 28. $95.(royalbcmuseum.bc.ca/events/art-n-facts-of-wine)

8TH ANNUAL DINING OUT FOR LIFE (Vancouver Island)Imagine you could help your community by dining out at one of your favourite localrestaurants. On April 30 thousands of diners will choose from some of the best (andmost generous) restaurants on the island, to help raise funds in support of AIDSVancouver Island. In 2014, with the help of over 85 amazing restaurants whodonated 25% of food sales, the event raised over $40,000 in a single day!! As a resultof this generosity, AIDS Vancouver Island was able to provide over 10,000 nutritiousmeals to people in need – from Port Hardy to Victoria. Visit www.diningoutforlife.comfor a list of participating restaurants.

ONGOING FARMERS MARKETS AT THE VICTORIA PUBLIC MARKET (Victoria)

Local farmers and food producers come every Wednesday for the weekly Farmers'Market from 11AM-3PM. You can also catch them every Saturday and Sunday. Youcan now see which vendors will be selling on the market’s online calendar.(victoriapublicmarket.com/market-calendar)

FEAST! May 8 - 24 (Tofino-Ucluelet)

A collaboration between the area’s renowned chefs, fishermen and women, accommodationproviders, activity providers and tour operators, Feast! Tofino - Ucluelet celebrates the abundance oflocal produce, seafood and sustainable " boat to table " practices commonly adopted by the area'srestaurants. This year’s guest chefs include Kunal Ghose (Red Fish, Blue Fish, Victoria), ChrisWhittaker (Forage, Vancouver), and Peter Zambri (Zambri’s, Victoria). Returning events will includethe annual Dockside Festival (at the 4th street dock) and the Boat to Tailgate Party, after its success-ful inaugural event in 2014 at the Trilogy Dock. The culinary scene in Tofino-Ucluelet continues toflourish, especially with recent additions of Wolf in the Fog and Kuma, and Feast! offers a greatopportunity to celebrate it. This year’s festival runs from May 8-24. (www.feastbc.com)


Irish ham ranks among the best I’ve had. Its woodsy note results from being cured andsmoked over juniper or peat while the meat remains raw. A good country ham does thetrick too. Don’t mess about with a good ham—just soak (to remove salt), boil, bake andbaste occasionally with a mixture of whiskey, dried mustard and a touch of brown sugar.Colcannon, a luxurious meld of mashed potatoes, cabbage (or kale) and cream, is theultimate side dish. Do as the Irish do. Make a well in the potatoes and fill with melted but-ter. If early spring weather is kind, accompany the meal with steamed baby asparagusspears.Cockle soup, a soul-soothing concoction of cockles (tiny seawater clams), onions,

celery and cream is rather like clam chowder without the spuds. Simply sub in tinycherrystone clams for the cockles. Dig into a hearty bowlful along with a wedge of sodaor wheaten bread (soda bread made with rolled oats and whole grain flour instead ofwhite flour) slathered with creamery butter. Even better, fashion the soda bread recipe—use buttermilk, please—into seaweed scones. Add dried and toasted dulce or roughlychopped seaweed that has been soaked until soft (about ten minutes) and cookie-cut intothick rounds. Kick up the dough, if you like, with a dash of Keen’s mustard, choppedchives, crumbled goat cheese or a handful of grated Irish cheddar. Easter usually signifies a day at the (horse) races and roast Irish lamb at the table. Well-

known young Dubliner singer and food personality Donal Skehan likes to serve roasted-wild-garlic-stuffed lamb with braised baby lettuce and peas. The doyenne of Irish cooking,Darina Allen (Ballymaloe Cooking School), advocates a traditional Easter lunch ofsucculent lamb and mint sauce—with asparagus spears napped with Hollandaise on toastas the starter and rhubarb tart to finish. This is my idea of an Easter menu, perhaps withroasted beets and carrots to go with the lamb and some Cashel Blue or Irish cheddar tofinish.If Saint Paddy’s Day overindulgence figures in, a full Irish fry-up the next morning sets

you straight. That means strong tea and goodly helpings of toast, eggs, beans, grilledtomatoes and—best of all—grilled black pudding (blood sausage) and white pudding (porkmeat and oatmeal).Top of the mornin’ to you!

An Irish SpringSeafood, lamb, ham, butter, cream, root vegetables andsturdy breads are at the heart of the country’s cuisine.

www.eatmagazine.ca MARCH | APRIL 2015 9

THE IRISH AND NON-IRISH THE WORLD OVER unwind on Saint Patrick’s Day witha good dose of Celtic craic (Irish slang for good conversation, music and fun). Citiesand towns hold jolly parades—in New Orleans, the custom of hurling everything fromplastic beads to cabbages from floats into the crowd resulted in my getting pummeledin the head by a flying green orb. Publicans dole out creamy-headed Guinness (notthat ghastly green stuff) from a seemingly bottomless keg. Fiddle, uilleann pipe andbodran entertain cheery quaffers with toe-tapping “sessions.” It’s a shame Irish cuisineplays second fiddle to the revelry, often whittled down to wan “Irish” stew and/orcorned beef and cabbage, which, funnily enough, isn’t even served in Ireland. There,folks pack local pubs and eateries after mass for a good rib-sticking lunch. Easter isinclined to be more of a family affair. Fresh seafood, lamb or ham, butter, cream,cheeses, root vegetables and sturdy breads lie at the heart of the matter and the foodis “grand” indeed.I highly recommend ramping things up with some bloody fine Irish fare this Saint

Patrick’s Day and Easter. Beginning with Irish stew. Purists maintain an Irish stewshould contain little more than hogget or mutton chops layered with potatoes, waterand onions and seasoned simply with salt, pepper and parsley. The stew is coveredand cooked in a slow oven, the lid lifted during the final stages so potatoes can crispunder the broiler. Dead easy to make, this simple stew is surprisingly flavourful.Carrots, turnips, potatoes and barley have crept into most of today’s Irish stew recipes.I embrace this tradition too—less the barley. Yotam Ottolenghi, the revered Israeli chef(now based in London), however, takes his “sort-of” Irish stew deliciously over thetop with whole wheat, celeriac, white wine, oregano, thyme and a garlic paste fordrizzling.

g FOOD MATTERS By Julie Pegg

E



g GOOD FOR YOU By Pam Durkin

Consume the LegumeInexpensive, versatile and full of nutrients, the humblepod is a protein powerhouse.THOUGH THE GENERAL PUBLIC MAY DISMISS them as “flatulence instigators” or“poor man’s protein,” legumes are unanimously heralded as super-foods by nutritionalexperts worldwide. Indeed, iconic health gurus like Mehmet Oz, Joel Fuhrman andAndrew Weil recommend the daily consumption of legumes as a means to enhancehealth and promote longevity. Science concurs. An amassing body of evidence suggestseating beans and other legumes on a regular basis can help prevent everything fromcancer to obesity. Thankfully, in addition to being über-healthy, legumes are alsoversatile, flavourful and easy to incorporate into your diet in fun and delicious ways.What exactly IS a legume? The term is ascribed to the edible pods and seeds of

certain plants and include beans, soybeans, lentils, peas and peanuts. And while thereare many different varieties of legumes, each with their own unique flavour andtexture, they all have one thing in common—they pack a nutritional wallopunrivalled by most foods. Legumes are literally teeming with vital nutrients,including calcium, copper, folic acid, iron, magnesium, manganese, potassium,phosphorous, selenium and zinc. In addition, they’re loaded with certain disease-fight-ing phytochemicals that have been shown to have antioxidant, anti-inflammatoryand anti-cancer properties. What’s more, they are an excellent source of virtuallyfat- and cholesterol-free plant protein and fibre.Not surprisingly, this powerhouse blend of nutrients can help enhance human

health in myriad ways. For instance, regular bean consumption can help stave offheart disease by reducing LDL cholesterol, high blood pressure and inflammationmarkers in the body. Emerging research indicates it can also reduce the risk factors formetabolic syndrome, a key player in the development of cardiovascular disease. Andthere is more good news about noshing on beans. The healthy dining habit can helpin the prevention and management of Type-2 diabetes. Legumes’ soluble fibre contenthelps stabilize blood sugar levels and increases cells’ sensitivity to insulin. Further-more, scientists have discovered diets high in legumes can help fight obesity—a knownrisk factor for Type-2 diabetes. If all this wasn’t impressive enough, consider this: thebioactive compounds found in legumes—namely phytochemicals, saponins andtannins—have all been shown to inhibit cancer cell growth. Undoubtedly the most surprising health-enhancing nutrient found in legumes is

phytic acid. Phytic acid (aka phytate) is the storage form of phosphorous and it isoften considered an “anti-nutrient” due to its propensity to bind minerals like iron inthe digestive tract, rendering them less “bioavailable.” Citing this anti-nutrientquality, proponents of the popular Paleo diet eschew legumes altogether. Theirreasoning, however, is both faulty and unscientific. Here’s why. Our bodies regulatephytate levels very well; most phytates are degraded in the stomach and smallintestine. Furthermore, preparation methods such as soaking, cooking, sprouting andfermenting all help to dramatically reduce phytate levels in foods. (Phytates are alsofound in grains and nuts.) Simply adding vitamin C-rich foods or vinegar to a mealreplete with phytates will diminish their levels even further. However, it may actuallybe unnecessary AND unhealthy to completely eradicate the phytates in foods. Thelatest research reveals this once vilified anti-nutrient can help enhance the activity ofnatural killer cells and inhibit tumor growth. In addition, several preliminary studiessuggest it can also help prevent plaque formation and hardening of the arteries.With their reputation as a super-food confirmed, allow me to highlight legume’s

versatility as a kitchen staple. Just as there are many different types of legumes, thereare ever more ways to cook and flavour them. They can be used whole, pureed orground into flour and incorporated into entrees, soups, stews, vegan burgers, dessertsand more. Although it’s cheaper to buy the dried varieties and soak and cook themyourself, canned varieties offer irresistible convenience for just a few pennies more.There’s also a wealth of healthy “prepared” legume dishes readily available at bettermarkets—from take-out salads to enchiladas, burritos and ethnic stews. Why not trya few and join in the chorus of pod praisers. Your body will thank you! E



www. cavavictoria.com 250.590.7982

M O D E R N F I N E D I N I N G

What’s on your plate this evening?

EAT WELL. HAVE FUN.

� � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � �

Share #yourtofi no tourismtofino

@tourism_tofino tourismtofino

Tofino - as‘boat to table’as it gets.as it gets.COME FEAST WITH US

FEAST TOFINO May 8-24

For information about all the exciting culinary events on or near the water, visit feasttofi no.com


MORELS ARE A GOURMET’S DREAM FOOD and one of the world’s most belovedwild mushrooms. These delectable morsels are foraged by dedicated experiencedpickers from April to June; they can’t be grown commercially. Morels grow near deador dying trees, in old fruit orchards and in areas recently burned by forest fires. It’s notsurprising they are expensive: Their harvest season is brief, they are extremelyperishable and are difficult to hunt and gather.Morels can be tan, yellow, grey, dark brown, or black with white ridges. They can

range in size from one to twelves inches, although most are between two to four inchestall. Their plump, sponge-like hollow caps, which resemble honeycombs, pinecones—or the brain of an SNL Conehead—perch on thick hollow stems. Morels have a smoky, nutty, earthy, meaty flavour and a firm texture. The darker

the morel, the more intense the mushroom’s flavour profile. When purchasing morels, choose mushrooms with firm, moist, spongy caps.

(Always buy them from a trusted source; false morels are toxic.) Plan to prepare andeat them the same day you purchase them. They should never be eaten raw and mustbe thoroughly cleaned and allowed to air-dry just before they are cooked. Theirintricate caps hold dirt, insects, larvae and other forest debris. Gently brush the dirtoff them, shake them, and place them in a large bowl of cold water, gently stirring thewater and allowing them to sit for ten minutes. Then, give each mushroom a gentleshake in the water and let them dry completely on paper towels.The K.I.S.S. rule is best when cooking with morels. Keep recipes simple to allow their

unique flavour to shine. Sweat them in butter with shallots, Madeira or dry vermouthand fresh tarragon leaves. Their flavour marries beautifully with fiddleheads, wildchinook salmon, lamb and other spring delights. Spread crostini with a puree ofcooked fava beans, garlic, lemon juice and grated Parmesan, add a smear of freshricotta and top with sautéed morels. Try homemade pizza crust with sautéed morels,red onions, asparagus and Gruyere cheese. If you can’t find fresh morels in a local supermarket, specialty produce store or

farmer’s market, they can be ordered from Vancouver’s Pacific Rim Mushrooms.PacRimMushrooms.com. Dried morels are available year-round. (Check out UntamedFeast.com to find a nearby

store that sells their dried morels.) They have a chewier texture and a more intenseflavour than fresh morels. To reconstitute them before cooking, cover them with tepidwater and soak them for half an hour until they are plump. Drain them and use thesoaking liquid to make broth. Don’t miss the short-lived morel season. These down-to-earth morsels will elevate

your spring dishes.


enjoy the

of spring with new seasonalproductsASK OUR RESIDENT EXPERTS ABOUT CRISP LIVELY WINES AND SPRING BOCK BEERS

ASK OUR RESIDENT EXPERTS ABOUT CRISP LIVELY WINES AND SPRING BOCK BEERS

g GET FRESH By Sylvia Weinstock

Fresh Morels, Asparagus and Gnocchi

E

Morels

(Serves 2)

6 fresh morels, washed and dried Extra virgin olive oil8 thin asparagus spears, trimmed and cut in thirds¼ cup roasted red peppers, diced4 water-packed canned artichoke hearts, sliced1 9-ounce package of fresh gnocchi, boiled anddrainedSalt and fresh black pepper to taste

Slice morels in half lengthwise. Heat 3teaspoons of olive oil in a cast-iron skillet over

medium-high heat. Add morels and a pinch of salt.Sauté for 3 minutes until golden brown. Removefrom the pan and set aside.

Add more olive oil to the hot pan and sautéasparagus, peppers and artichoke hearts untiltender. Remove from the pan and set aside.

Add more oil to the hot pan and sauté thecooked gnocchi until it is golden brown. Add theasparagus mixture to the pan and toss gently tocombine. Season with salt and pepper. Plate, topwith morels, and serve.

Delicious woodsy morels signal the arrival of spring.


LIKE SO MANY OF US SO LONG AGO, I discovered Chinese food as a kid desperatefor an alternative to the pleasure-free, English-Irish-Scottish fare that prevailed throughthe 1950s. That quest led me and my pals to five-burp eateries all trumpeting “world-famous Canadian and Chinese food.” Remember egg roll, sweet-and-sour spareribs (nasty little knuckles of bone in red

sauce), chop suey and fried rice, piled high on a combo plate for 75 cents? Simple farethough it was, it made Marco Polos of us. Finally tired of knuckles and ready to stretch our allowances, we dallied with chicken

balls (at least you could chew them), then made the jump into the big time: soo guyor war sui gai they called it, almond breaded chicken or, as it is in inner circles, ABC.Soo guy was a mysterious pleasure: tender, light and fluffy chicken breast breaded

and crisply deep-fried, scattered with toasted chopped almonds and served with abrown gravy. A Cantonese variation on what you’d find at the bogus Kentuckycolonel’s. But there was a difference, this unique flavour, something nutty, something herba-

ceous, something that tickled our palates and lifted this dish to a plateau all its own. Decades later, we can eat real Chinese food any time we want. Yet ABC still retains

its legions of followers. We might even outnumber one of Kublai Khan’s armies.It is, of course, an American take on Chinese food; I’ve travelled the Middle

Kingdom 11 times from the East China Sea to the Taklamakan Desert in the far westand never found it on a menu. The dish appeared first in Detroit, of all places. Five years ago, the Detroit Free Press

named it the dish that defines the city on the American culinary map. It’s a good guessABC crossed the Windsor-Detroit Bridge and became a staple in Ontario and otherparts of Canada. The challenge came with the Hong Kong exodus of the 1980s. Suddenly, it was bye,

bye, almond breaded chicken, hello Peking duck, Sichuan eggplant, Hunan lamb and Yunnanham. How grand it is: Canadians are still discovering what happens when a culturespends 5,000 years tinkering in a kitchen.This sweep of foodie history, however, seems to have rushed right past Victoria. Poor

us. The old Cantonese favourites remain firmly entrenched here. At times, you’d swearour Chinatown menus haven’t changed since 1951.But did we really want to see it swept away? At the unassuming and packed Halibut House (3500 Quadra, 250-385-4944), the

father-and-son brigade of Yuk-Chi and Wesley Ieung works feverishly in the kitchen,turning out such masterful dishes as the fluffiest shrimp dumplings in town, crispyginger fried beef and salt-and-pepper squid. The human hurricane running the frontof the house is Sherry Ieung, who knows regulars on a first-name basis and welcomesnewbies who think it’s too good to be true. This is the place I’d send my friends for analmond breaded chicken hit. Yet on the homefront, ABC continues to flummox us. It’s that mystery flavour,

which, we’ve determined, lies in the batter, not the chicken, not the gravy. I’vescanned dozens of recipes and never come up with anything more exotic than cornoil, baking soda, corn starch and flour. Almond flour might still be it, but so far ithasn’t worked for us.I’ve also polled Cantonese chefs and Hong Kong immigrants about this for years, and

although every short-order Chinese cook in Canada seems to know the secret, nobodyspills. Even Google falters here.So here I am on bended knee, dear readers: Does anyone out there have the secret?

If you do, puh-lease pass it on and fulfill my decades-long quest.But do forgive me if I don’t respond. I’m off to Detroit, where rumour says every

restaurant left standing is offering almond breaded chicken. I may not be home for awhile.You can reach Jeremy with your suggestion for the secret ingredient by writing to the

[email protected].

13

REAL FOODFOR GOOD TIMES

REAL FOODFOR GOOD TIMES

REAL FOODFOR GOOD TIMESFOR GOOD TIMES

REAL FOODREAL FOODREAL FOODREAL FOODFOR GOOD TIMESFOR GOOD TIMESFOR GOOD TIMESFOR GOOD TIMESFOR GOOD TIMESFOR GOOD TIMESFOR GOOD TIMES

450 swift street | victoria bc canoebrewpub.com

GRASS-FED BC BEEF AND SEASONALLY INSPIRED LOCAL PRODUCE KEEP OUR

MENU FRESH AND EASY TO ENJOY

proud

member of your

community

since 2002

proud

member of your

community

since 2002

g EPICURE AT LARGE By Jeremy Ferguson

E

The ABC of Chinese FoodA childhood love of almond breaded chickenturns into a lifelong quest.


Swan™ lounge chair by Arne Jacobsen 1958



Now I understand the logical fallacy that led to my prejudice. I had never been to CactusClub Cafe before January because I had mentally equated “chain” with “roadhouse.” And so,being at times an unspeakable snob, I had walked on by. Now I understand that I have beenmissing out, because Cactus Club is in its own special category. It offers high-end dining formedium-end pricing. The executive chef is Rob Feenie, of Lumière fame in Vancouver. He is nota mere figurehead; he has developed many of the dishes on the menu, and he is present, atvarious times, in the kitchens of all the restaurants of the expanding B.C. chain. He was in factin Victoria the day I happened to be there. The Soy-Dijon Salmon for $24.75 offers someoverlap with Lumière, as a velvety sauce of Dijon, butter and soy soaks into a large slab ofperfectly flaky salmon served over shiitake and snap peas on a bed of pearl barley. The B.C.-caught salmon is Ocean Wise certified. If the salmon is ladylike (assuming ladies have big

appetites), Rob’s Hunter Chicken for $23.75 is the scent-of-soft-leather, manly dish. A dusky,dark demi-glace glistening with a generous butter finish surrounds a large, tender chickenbreast topped with sautéed portobello, cremini and shiitake mushrooms and accompanied byquartered yellow potatoes and crisply cooked green beans. For simpler fare, the Feenie Burgerfor $16.50 is big, fat and juicy. It is topped with smoked bacon, aged cheddar and plenty ofpickle, and comes with fries. If you’re hungry enough for a starter, the Ravioli and Prawns for$13.50 is exquisite. Imagine a magic carpet of a large squash-filled ravioli, with a cushion ofjumbo prawn in truffle butter and, riding the top like a little Aladdin, a leaf of intensely flavour-ful fried sage. In Victoria, there’s a business crowd at lunch and a younger crowd in theevening, but the point is that there is often a crowd, and for good reason. BY ELIZABETH MONK

E

1125 Douglas St., Victoria | 250-361-3233 | cactusclubcafe.com

photo: Rebecca Wellm

an

Cactus Club

REPORTER

Rob’s Hunter Chicken

RESTAURANT | SHOPS |

Cactus Club Victoria Chef Bobby Bridger



E

The Oaks Restaurant and Grill

Over the past decade, Oak Bay Village has slowly changed. There are now more art galleries than

banks along Oak Bay Avenue—and there are a lot of banks. The Blethering Place Tea Room anchored

the Village’s faux-British charm for years beginning in 1975 when an ordained parson from Scotland

opened The Parson’s Blethering Place in the 1912-built former grocery store and post office. Ken Agate

bought the teahouse in 1981, shortened the name to The Blethering Place, and for three decades

doubled down on the room’s British emphasis.

After an attempt to modernize the business in 2011 failed, chef Nick Hopkins bought the room in

November 2012 and changed the name to The Oaks. His wife, Dee, has been waitressing since she was

16 and manages front of house with a relaxed, welcoming smile.

“I cooked all over Calgary after graduating from SAIT’s culinary program, ran a catering company

in 2007 and 2008, and was one of the largest aboriginal employers in northern Saskatchewan. But Dee

is the boss,” Nick adds. “I sold the catering business and bought The Oaks.”

Hopkins makes everything from scratch. All the baking is produced in-house, including the scones and

other pastries featured in his popular tea menu. The daily soups are seasonal and hearty.

“Our customers get upset when butternut squash season ends. They love my butternut soup.” The burly,

stubble-bearded chef laughs, leaning his heavily tattooed forearms on the table. “We roast turkey for

our sandwich meat and make all our own gravy. Our crab cakes are made from real crabmeat. That’s

one of our most popular dishes, that and our house-braised short ribs,” Hopkins continues while adjusting

his grey, Led Zeppelin ball cap. “The short ribs are braised in stout, and they’re used in our most

popular all-day breakfast dish: short rib hash with poached eggs and hash browns.”

“We want to make this a community meeting spot, a homey, neighbourhood place,” Dee adds, “and

we’re getting great response for our live music offerings on Friday nights.”

Local bands like Rig-a-Jig, Old Black Rum and Bijoux du Bayou play The Oaks regularly, and on the

first Sunday night of every month, Stephen Brown & Bastion Band plays traditional New Orleans jazz.

Dee and Nick’s commitment to the neighbourhood is underlined by their support of the Community

Association of Oak Bay’s totem pole project. They’re giving the volunteer group the venue for a series

of monthly benefit concerts to raise a pole in front of the new, $50-million Oak Bay High. First Nations

Night in Oak Bay is scheduled for March 28 at The Oaks, and acclaimed jazz vocalist Joe Coughlin

joins Dr. Tony Genge on the B3 organ April 18.

“We’re adding more British dishes to our menu, more curries and stews, bangers and mash and meat

pies,” Nick said before heading back to his kitchen.

“But we’re going to cook a special, aboriginal-inspired menu for First Nations Night,” Dee adds with

a big smile.

BY JOSEPH BLAKE

2250 Oak Bay Ave., Victoria | 250-590-3155

left: Chef’s signature crab cakes right: Chef Nick Hopkins and Ditza Hopkins

Rebecca Wellm

an

OLO a farm to table restaurant

www.olorestaurant.ca



Stage Wine Bar | WHEN GRAHAM MECKLING TOOK OVER the ownership ofStage from George and Linda Szasz in 2012, the Fernwoodestablishment had already enjoyed a solid five-year run ofsuccess. Meckling slipped into his new role with natural easeand style. No major changes were implemented. The smallplates menu, cocktails and wines-by-the-glass programremained in place. It just got better and livelier, especially themenu. Enter chef Sam Harris in March of last year, injecting those

small plates with lively sparks of creativity, the kind that makeyou sit up and take notice. While regulars can still relish thegreatest hits of octopus, steamed mussels and merguez sausagewith seasonal flourishes, Harris has added new dishes worthyof note. Steak tartare is one of them. Two Rivers top sirloin,hand chopped to order, sees the classic shallots, mustard andcornichons presented topped with a quail egg and choppedchives. Served with grilled bread, the mixture is a heavenlyblend of textures on the palate. So too the grilled halloumi.Held atop a vibrant salad of couscous with fennel, radishes,cucumber and arugula, bright, crunchy textures cut throughthe cheese’s saltiness, as does its coat of herb vinaigrette.Harris brings a wealth of experience to the kitchen table,

from “chasing hotel excellence” at some of B.C.’s topproperties, to cooking at Vancouver’s Bishop’s, to butchery andcharcuterie training at Two Rivers Meats and Choux ChouxCharcuterie. Star billing goes to the bavette, that unsung cut ofbeef grilled medium-rare, a plate of tender lusciousness servedwith a sticky jus and a seasonal mix of turnips, kale andmizuna. A housemade XO sauce delivers umami pow to a dishof risotto and seared scallops with house pancetta “chips.”Bravo! Or dig in to Harris’s beefed-up charcuterie list withsmoked duck pastrami, capicollo, mortadella and smoked fish.Stage continues its stellar ascent. Cue applause!1307 Gladstone Ave. | 250-388-4222 | stagewinebar.com

REPORTER RevisitsShelora Sheldan goes back to a coupleof restaurants to see what changes havetaken place.

Lamb Merguez sausage, carrot puree,roasted sunchokes, carrot parsley andmint salad

Chef Sam Harris



Unsworth Restaurant | IT’S CHEF STEVEN ELSKEN’S DEEPconnection to the Island’s naturalbeauty and abundance of localingredients that directs the newmenu at Unsworth Restaurant. Withits stunning vineyard, orchard andgarden views, the dining room, set ina 1900 heritage house at UnsworthWinery, confirms its sense of place inthe heart of the Cowichan Valley. The Belgium-born Elskens first set

foot on Vancouver Island in 2001.One work visa led to another beforehe made the Island his permanenthome. As a chef with a successfulcatering business, he’s built relation-ships with the valley’s purveyors,farmers and fishers, and with his wifeand partner Christle Pope, whoaffably runs the front of house at therestaurant. His small plates menu sings of the

seasons, and winter’s song was show-cased the sunny December afternoonI dined there. It was a fitting seguefrom the restaurant’s opening chef,Brad Boisvert, who has moved toCherry Point Vineyards and CureArtisan Meats and Cheese in CobbleHill. Elskens shows real flair withvegetable-based fare. Case in point:bright green Savoy cabbage rolls

stuffed with a gingery mix of milletand mushrooms sat in a vibrant silkysauce of sweet and sour beets. Theplump rolls, presented with abouffant top of fresh sprouts andbright orange crispy shoestringcarrots, were a flavourful fiesta ofcolour and texture. A red beet salad,tossed in an orange-harissavinaigrette, was topped with a warmroasted pear, crumbles of meltedlocal blue cheese and toastedwalnuts, a playful dish of contrastingtemperatures. His layering of flavours and colours

is also found with seafood and meatdishes. Fragrant fennel-cured gravlaxsat amongst a fingerling and purplepotato salad topped with a poachedegg and a bright hit of fresh water-cress. And a tender grilled skirt steakon Well Bred bakery bread came withroasted cauliflower, a creamyrutabaga puree and chimichurributter with herbs and a hit of spice. Change can make regular

customers nervous, but the changesat this wonderful destination inspirea road trip.Unsworth Restaurant at UnsworthVineyard | 2915 Cameron Taggart Rd. |250-929-2292 | Cobble Hill, B.C. |unsworthvineyards.com

continues year-roundVictoria�s premier farmers market

MossStreetMarket.com

warm and dry in theGarry Oak Room

With your favouritelocal organic farmers

Parking off Thurlow,Sir James Douglasschool parking lot.

See website for details.

IndoorsMSM Winter Market

Nov-Apr, Saturdays, 10-noon

MossSt.Market



g EATING WELL FOR LESS By Elizabeth Monk

Hot and New,Tried and True

Elizabeth Nyland

Elizabeth Nyland

My theme message about Mai Mai’s is “for thelove of god.” For the love of god, bring a gangand be the happening trendsetters in this newlyopened restaurant. Get there while the food anddrinks are so underpriced. This place will be veryhot, very soon. It has a sophisticated New YorkCity vibe and creative and exquisite food thatblends Asian, French and West Coast withconfidence and delicacy. Peppered Tuna Tataki,at $14, is treated like a French steak with apeppercorn crust. It is lightly seared, remainingdeep pink and succulent. It is served on a papayaand daikon slaw, the clean, grassy notes of thesalad underpinned by the earthy subtext of truffleoil from the oil and ponzu dressing. At a mere $7,the Mai Mai roll also offers a sophisticated,multicultural blend of flavours, with its goat cheese

and avocado filling and a crisp finish of tempuraasparagus. An intriguing soy sauce and brownsugar reduction is drizzled over top. French meetsAsian once again in an appetizer of Goat Cheeseand Fig Poppers. Figs are soaked in red wine andsugar to soften and are then blended with goatcheese and stuffed inside wonton wrappers. AThai sweet chili balsamic reduction accompaniesthis dish. The cocktails reflect a playful butknowledgeable melding of flavours, with treats likeRaspberry Mint Ginger Caipiroska and Bourbon-Steeped Iced Tea. There’s a generous happy hourfrom 5 to 7 p.m., with $5 for pints and some winesand highballs. And from 10 p.m. to 2 a.m., aselection of food is half-price, reason enough tobecome nocturnal.

525 Fort St at Langley | Victoria | 250-590-8848Mai Mai’s

A downtown sophisticate, a Sidney pub and aspicy takeout surprise.

top left: Goat Cheese and Fig Poppers top right: Chef Jo Jo in front of the barbottom: Peppered Tuna Tataki


Elizabeth Nyland


9535 Canora Rd., Sidney, 250-655-4450Mary’s Bleue Moon Café

I know of no place in the Victoria area quite like Mary’s Bleue Moon Café. Being there is like beingwarmly invited into the doublewide of a kind family that happens to really, really, like airplanes. This pubnear the airport, which does look like a doublewide from the outside, but stretches back into a pub that’sbigger than it seems, has been around since 1939, feeding World War II pilots and crew. And they havethe photos and memorabilia on the wall to prove it. You come for the history, but also, happily, for thefood, which is in the category of “pub food done well.” The large plate of calamari on the appetizermenu for $12.99 is a notch above the norm, seasoned as it is with a hint of curry powder. The musselsfor $13.99 would not be out of place in a finer dining establishment, with their rich, fulsome sauce ofpesto, cream and sherry. But sometimes in a pub, you just want classic pub food. The fish and chips is awinner. One piece of cod is $9.99; two pieces are $13.99. The fish is moist and flaky, with no trace ofgrease on the batter. The coleslaw is excellent because it is lightly dressed, avoiding a quality that mightnot be in the Larousse Gastronomique but is definitely in my lexicon: gloppy. Theirs is not. The signatureMoon Burger, for $12.59 is encrusted with peppercorns, served with blue cheese mayo and meltedmozzarella, and includes fries or salad. I recommend the house-made tarragon cream dressing. Sinceit’s possible you may arrive by car rather than by World War II bomber, I should mention the extra park-ing across the road from the restaurant.

Wrap ’n’ Roll looks like a place I’d usually never go into. From the outside it gives off the vibe of oneof those molded plastic places that sell cardboard pizza. But be intrepid, dear reader, because thiscruel disguise actually masks the beauty inside a bustling Lebanese-Canadian family producing tasty,garlicky, Middle Eastern wraps and pastries with intriguing names like “Soujouk” and “Makanek.” TheSoujouk Wrap is basically a garlic-with-garlic concoction: zesty garlic sausage, feisty garlic mayonnaiseand turnip pickle, lettuce and tomato wrapped in a tender pita lightly grilled to give it a bit of crunch.Sometimes medical staff from the Royal Jubilee Hospital across the road want to avoid breathing garlicon their patients but still want a flavour kick. They opt for the Makanek Wrap, a special Lebanese sausagerichly spiced with nutmeg, cinnamon, cardamom and cloves. The meat in the Lamb Kafta Wrap, bycontrast, has more of an emphasis on onions and cumin and is slathered in a yogurt and dill sauce.These wraps all go for between $5.50 and $6. Savoury Lebanese pastries are available too, such asthe Cheese Fatayer for $1.50, which looks like a soft samosa and is stuffed with three cheeses: feta,mozzarella and Lebanese akkawi. In true Canadian style, the owners Moe, Afaf and Fatima havecreated a cross-cultural invention that is one of my favourites: the chicken pie for $2.50 is lightly curriedchicken in a flaky phyllo pastry. Delicious. For those who want to eat in, there are five bar stools. Photo on pg. 3

Tucked down a hallway at the harbour end of Fort Street, you can hear the buzzbefore you open the door and fall into this room that won Best Commercial Designon Vancouver Island in 2014. You will be delighted with the warmth and your timetravel back to prohibition era.

Inspired by the best bars in New Orleans, Austin, Seattle and Portland, this is a restaurantwith superb food and a complete beverage program. Little Jumbo’s cocktail creativity has beenheaded by Nate Caudle, Bar Manager since opening in August 2013. Caudle and his teamdeliver a new set of original cocktails every 6 weeks to delight all tastes, as well as finelycrafted classics. Not yet 1½ years old, Little Jumbo has garnered public recognition in enRoute People’s

Choice categories including Top 35 Canada's Best New Restaurant (2014) and Top 100Favorite Bars in Canada. Caudle took top position in Art of the Cocktail - Best Bartender,Pacific Northwest in both 2013 & 2014. Tales of the Cocktail placed Little Jumbo in the Top10 - Best New International Cocktail Bars 2014.When one of its three owners was approached at the one-year anniversary event last August

and asked what the plan was for year two, the response was unequivocal – “continue to raisethe bar... ” With that in mind, Chris Jones, local longtime restauranteur, was retained to assist in this

journey and the bar has truly been raised. Much of the focus has been on moving the food tothe same level that the beverage side has enjoyed since day one. Chef Jesse Cole joined theteam in December and has spent the past two months conjuring up exciting new dishes for theLittle Jumbo menu. Drawing from his previous years as Restaurant Chef at AURA waterfrontrestaurant + patio, Cole has brought his refined touch and exciting new concepts to the table.

With the launch of a new andcreative menu, Chef Cole hasadded platters to the foodofferings where diners canenjoy group-sized boards suchas “The Big Smoke” acharcuterie platter, “The BigSea” a local seafood platter,and “The Big Duck” a platterutilizing every part of a wholeduck including duck breasts,duck legs confit, crispysmoked duck wings and duck

rillettes. Along with this sharing style concept, Cole will also be releasing a “Happy Hour” stylemenu consisting of Little Jumbo favourites at a reduced price. This will be available everyday from 4pm-5:30pm starting March 15.Ultimately, what Little Jumbo strives for is an excellent overall customer experience. Open

later than other Victoria restaurants and fully accessible, this remains one of Victoria’s hiddengems. Little Jumbo Restaurant & Bar, 506 Fort St., near Wharf, 778-433-5535, littlejumbo.caOpen Tuesday - Sunday 5:00 to Midnight. Fridays & Saturdays to 1:00am (with a 4:00pmopening time for Happy Hour effective March 15, 2015)

EAT SPECIAL PROMOTION

Chef Jesse Cole joins the team at Little JumboRAISING THE BAR

Wrap ’n’ Roll, 1885 Fort St. near Richmond, 250-383-7655Wrap ’n’ Roll

left: Blue Moon Burger (A peppercorn coated patty topped with a blue cheesedressing and mozzarella cheese.) right: Steamed Mussels in a tomato garlic broth


NED BELL IS HAVING A MOMENT AND HEHAS THE FISH TO THANK. Bell, the executivechef at the Four Seasons Hotel Vancouver and Yewseafood & bar (known around town for innovativeand sustainable seafood), was named chef of theyear by Kostuch Media at their 26th annualPinnacle Awards — the culinary Oscars of Canada.

“Do you really win the award or are yourecognized?” asks Bell. “I’ve been in this businessa long time. You do your best and you do stuff thatmatters and hopefully people are engaged yourwork.”

In part, the accolades are the result of Bell'sdedication to seafood education among his peers.The Four Seasons Hotel Vancouver became the firstluxury property in Canada to be 100 per centOcean Wise certified. Bell didn’t stop there.

Founded in 2014, Chefs for Oceans aims toeducate the food industry on the importance ofsustainable seafood practices. Bell is the drivingforce. Last summer he traveled across Canada,clocking over 8000km and hosting a total of 24

events and demonstrations. He biked the entire route. Just because he could. “I really wanted to do something that would make people ask, ‘Do you know that chef who’s riding

his bike across Canada?’” says Bell, adding the journey wasn’t just a physical challenge. It tested hismental and emotional health as well.

If the Pinnacle award and cross country cycle weren't enough, Bell has been selected to speak at the2015 Terroir Symposium, May 10 to 13 in Toronto.

“Terroir is a hospitality symposium dedicated to individuals in the restaurant business that arepassionate about their industry,” says Arlene Stein, the founder and chair of Terroir.

The symposium, now in its ninth year, brings together the brightest culinary minds from around theglobal.

“Terroir means a ‘sense of place’ and we use this expression metaphorically to explain our gatheringand the community that comes together. It’s an opportunity for like-minded people to share and buildnetworks,” says Stein.

This year's presenter billing includes industry darling Ruth Reichl, Canadian television personality andToronto restaurateur Mark McEwan and fellow West Coaster David Hawksworth of HawksworthRestaurant. Each invitee presents — think 25 TED Talks with food at the heart of each story.

For Bell, that's seafood. “If we continue to overfish, by 2050 we could face a global fisheries collapse.Overfishing is the largest threat facing the oceans today,” says Bell.

Getting his peers on board is paramount.“Chefs for Oceans, as much as it’s about the three oceans that surround Canada, it’s also about the

seven oceans around the world. It’s a huge conversation, so you need to drill it down to the community.On the West Coast, that means we’re talking about halibut, sablefish and albacore tuna. On the EastCoast, it’s all about mussels, clams and lobster.”

Stein agrees that community and place is the key. “Cuisine is regional and is defined not by politicalboundaries, but by geography, ecology, history and culture. We should embrace our diversity and beproud that we have so much abundance in this country we call Canada.”

Bell will focus his Terroir talk on good practice fish farming — bringing the farms out of the ocean andonto land.

“What I realized on my trip across Canada was most chefs are really curious about what they’re put-ting on their menus. You don’t meet many chefs who are worth their salt that don’t like feeding theircustomers. This is highlighted on the coasts, but it doesn’t make it any less important to chefs in Calgaryor Saskatoon to be clued into where fish comes from.”

During his stay in Toronto, Bell will also host a sustainable seafood event, where he wants to engagenot only chefs, but NGOs. Within the next decade, Bell hopes Chefs for Oceans can establish a nationalseafood day in Canada and have sustainable seafood accessible to every Canadian.

Ned Bell’s moment is far from over. As he puts it, “This is seafood with a story.” —By Kaitlyn Rosenburg

Terroir 2015 takes place in Toronto May 10 -13, 2015. terroirsymposium.com

For more information on Chefs for Oceans go to chefsforoceans.com


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Ned Bell at Cook Culture where heteaches a cooking class each month.

Chef Ned Bell to speak about Chefs For Oceans


Gary H

ynes

250-590-45564136 WILKINSON RD

WWW.CROOKEDGOOSEBISTRO.CA

250-383-1545CORNER OF CROFT & SIMCOE IN JAMES BAY

WWW.HERONROCKBISTRO.CA

LOCAL FOOD, BEER, WINE & LIVE MUSICAT 2 GREAT NEIGHBOURHOOD BISTROS!

g COCKTAIL OF THE MONTH By Shawn Soole

MayahuelFlame

A SHRUB IS VINEGARED SYRUP made with spirit, water or carbonated soda while aswitchel is a molasses-based drinking vinegar from the colonial Caribbean at the turnof the last century. One of the main reasons for using these vinegars is to preserve thefruit of the season for the colder months, just like one would make jams and cannedpreserves. The popularity of these vinegars has grown in recent years because of their

versatility in cocktails, adding both a tart acidity and a distinct flavour. Whencreating a spirit-forward drink that may need acidity without the addition of citrusjuice, plain vinegar or a flavoured vinegar is the answer. Preparing these vinegars is pretty straightforward and can be tackled by the most

amateur of home bartenders. When making a “shrub” from soft fruits such as localberries, natural sugar extraction is the easiest way of keeping the brightness of the fruitthrough the process. This method calls for no heat but uses time to extract the juicefrom the fruit. Start by packing a jar one-third full of white sugar, add another thirdof berries, plums or other soft fruit and then top with more sugar. Let sit for a few daysand you will see the juice from the fruit slowly seep into the sugar. Once the fruit hasbroken down, add your vinegar (makes one litre) and stir or shake till it’s dissolved.Choosing what kind of vinegar is up to you. You can use plain white wine vinegar orapple You can also add a gentle heat to shrubs for harder-to-extract ingredients suchas ginger and carrot. Keep in mind that as heat is added, flavours change from brightto stewed.

2 oz (60 mL) reposado tequila ½ oz (15 mL) Green Tea and Serrano Chili Amaro 2/3 oz (20 mL) Ginger and Honey Shrub (recipe below)2/3 oz (20 mL) grapefruit juiceCombine ingredients. Shake with ice and double-strain over an ice globe into a stemless wine glass orold-fashioned glass. Garnish with a fat grapefruit twist.

Mayahuel Flame

One of the biggest trends incocktails worldwide rightnow is vinegar. That’s right.Mouth-puckering mixturescalled “shrubs” and“switchels,” as well asdrinking vinegars, kombuchas and kefirs, are huge in bars at the moment, not only for theirhealth benefits but becausethey can provide an acidcomplexity that citrus juicecan’t match.

Ginger and Honey Shrub3 knobs ginger, rough skin removed and chopped5 oz (150 mL) honey 10 oz (300 mL) hot water 4 cups (1 L) white sugar 10 oz (300 mL) apple cider vinegar

Place ginger, honey and hot water in a foodprocessor. Blend into a paste, then pour into asaucepot. Add sugar and apple cider vinegar andsimmer over medium-low for 15 minutes. Pourunstrained into bottle.



The Village Pop-Ups:

I’m heading to a pop-up on a chilly Saturday night in Royal Oak. By pure chance, I’vecaught wind that a ramen pop-up event is being hosted on two nights by one of myfavorite local diners, The Village. The Estevan Village event was the night prior (whichsold out in 12 hours, I’m told), and I’m on my way to the Royal Oak iteration. I have noidea what to expect: a ramen pop-up hosted in a once-was-Jewish-diner? What’s more,a duo all the way from Brooklyn is the one being featured here. I mean, fundamentally,I understand how people can get from Point A to Point B (you know, planes or cars), buthow is a ramen pop-up duo from Brooklyn possibly connected to a yyj breakfast joint?I’ve a few questions, I’m cold, it’s dark out, I’m listening to Dune on tape while driving,and I’m also pretty hungry — I’m feeling many things.As expected, The Village is a flurry of activity. The Village owner Jason Chan greets me

and immediately pulls me into the kitchen. About eight (maybe more?) individuals arecrammed into the kitchen, and it is busy. Hands are shaken, names are thrown about,and I’m told that pretty much everyone here is family. I’m soon introduced to themasterminds behind the ramen I’m to experience later in the evening — Aaron LloydBarr and Chris Konya who, together, compose Menma Ramen.How did they get here? Honestly, I’m not really sure. Chris grew up in LA, and her

family (from what I can tell) is now scattered across the Pacific Northwest, with herbrother living in Seattle. Somehow, there’s a West Coast connection to Jason of TheVillage. I’m still a bit confused, but I’m not sure it matters — the point is, two reallytalented ramen perfectionists from Brooklyn came across pretty much most of NorthAmerica so a few very, very lucky people could try some exceptionally great ramen.There’s been a lot of talk of ramen, as of late. About a year ago, The Mind of a Chef

devoted an entire episode to it; I recently talked about it in my “Johnson’s Jewels”article; Foo Ramen opened up just last year; and Lucky Peach recently devoted an entireday’s worth of posts to a series “The State of Ramen”. With just a tidbit of research, thecomplexity and passion behind ramen becomes clear — one really gets the sense that it’san incredibly nuanced, and rewarding, culinary craft that rewards experimentation, aconstant desire for refinement, and a borderline scientific approach to the whole process.The complexities of ramen, Chris tells me, made Chris and Aaron’s first venture into

the ramen void a difficult one. “We tried making ramen once and it was just soup. Wewaited a year, tried making it again, another bowl of soup — it was good, but it took usall friggin’ night to make it, and it still just tasted like soup.” Keen on making somelegitimately good, homemade ramen, Aaron and Chris reached out to Ivan from IvanRamen — an enormously talented ramen tech based out of Brooklyn. Ivan, Chris tells me,was the key to their ramen success, “A lot of ramen chefs like David Chang just throweverything into a big pot, and then at the end you don’t know what went wrong whenyour broth isn’t right. Here, we separate each flavor, and when you can taste themindividually, and you can start adding or taking away certain things, and that’s how wegot our first bowl — and there’s like 65 ingredients, so why throw everything together?”Having made that first successful bowl of ramen, soon enough the thought occurred toboth Chris and Aaron. “One day, we were on the subway riding home, and Aaron waslike ‘Hey man, we should do a pop-up.’”And here they are. Aaron gives me the run-down on their ramen, and it’s as complex

to grasp as one might think. Instead of going for a traditional Tonkotsu-style ramen

Ramen travels from afar to an unlikely destinationby Jon Johnson

Chris (left) and Aaron (right) of Menma Ramen



(re: pork bone broth), Aaron and Chris have opted for a “triple” blend brothconsisting of three styles of broth. “We make it using pork bones that we’ve rippeddown and boiled for 48 hours,” Aaron tells me, “and we also use a really clean chickenbroth made from whole organic chickens, and then a Dashi.” As for the noodles, Aaronand Chris haven’t gone the “make your own” route (far too laborious, Aaron tells me,and I really do believe him), and have instead opted for Sun Noodle — a Hawaii-basedartisan ramen noodle maker established in 1981. “They’re really geeky and science-yabout noodles,” says Aaron, “I literally walked him through how fatty our broth was,what it’s like, and they now make noodles that are spec-ed specifically for our ramen.”In the short 15 minutes that I spend with Aaron and Chris, they offer up a wealth

of detail about their ramen, and are eager to answer any of my questions — nomatter how uninformed — despite approaching that “oh-my-god-we-open-in-10-min-utes” point in the evening.

Despite a keen desire to ask every question that I possibly can, I end up making myway back into the dining room. With beer from Hoyne on tap (free with ticketpurchase), a DJ is jammin’, and I end up finding a seat with the owner of KumaNoodle, Cam (oh, let me just pick up that name I dropped there). The place, it shouldbe noted, is packed — like, really packed. If The Village — whether in Estevan or RoyalOak — is known for delivering a top-tier breakfast in a warm space that feels like home,this is a completely different (but still very comfortable and welcoming) kind of vibe,and it’s great.As for the ramen? Excellent, and unique from anything else I’ve tried. The broth is

as nuanced and complex as Aaron and Chris suggest, and there isn’t that huge punchof salty flavor that can sometimes happen with ramen. The broth is surprisingly light,but that’s not a bad thing — it’s a lighter affair, a bit “less dirty” than other types oframen, Jason comments, but it’s still satisfying and rich. The pork is tender, absorbent,and fatty — very good. But the highlights here are, by far, the noodles and thetraditional soft-boiled egg. The Sun noodles are, in my books, about perfect: chewy andjust a bit sweet, they’re exceptional. The egg is soft and explosive with flavor — saltyand sweet, the yolk magically achieved that mercurial point between solid and liquid.Topped with green onions, soaked cabbage, finely chopped nori, and — the duo’sspecialty — cooked and treated Menma (bamboo tips), it’s a beautiful bowl of ramen.A special thing.I’ve always loved The Village (full disclosure: The Village was one of the my hidden

gems in my recent articles), and the fact that Jason and the rest of the talented Villagecrew are willing to put on these kinds of events further cements my opinion thatthey’re one of the best things going in Victoria. More pop-ups are in order, Jason tellsme (look for a Pho one in the New Year), so keep your eyes peeled on this space.

Looking for Ramen in Victoria?

Kuma Noodle offers my personal favorite ramen in the city. The soya broth, inparticular, is exceptional.

Foo Ramen provides solid ramen to Victoria’s downtown. The price point is a littlehigher, but the ingredients — the pork belly, in particular — are excellent.

The Next Modern Japanese Cuisine opened just this past November in Cook StreetVillage. This place is really worth checking out (look for a “First Look” here ateatmagazine.ca). As for the ramen, it’s a lighter affair than what’s on offer at Kuma orFoo, but still satisfying and full of flavor. Recommended!

Craving More Ramen Knowledge?Check out Jason’s Instagram (@ramenology)

The place, it should be noted, is packed — like, really packed.


Kala Hadfield stands in front of a stainless steel tank on the breweryfloor, her pink rubber boots sticky with malty wort. Here at Spinnakers,Canada’s original brewpub, she’s literally following in her father Paul’sfootsteps and now up to her blonde tresses in the art of brewing craftbeer.

“I always had it in the back of my head that I might like to be brewing,” saysHadfield, 31, who now shares the production responsibilities with head brewerTommie Grant. “My dad suggested I try working my way up, and so I did everythingfrom working in the cellar to packaging, then brewing small batches and makingcasks. It’s a great creative outlet for me.”Today, Hadfield is working on her recipe for International Women’s Collaboration

Brew Day on March 8. It’s a Pink Boots Society fundraising event, the profits fromthe beer made on this day going to scholarships for women in the industry.While women consumers often say they don’t like the highly hopped beers

coming out of today’s North American craft breweries, at Spinnakers it is KalaHadfield who’s the resident hop head. Her Northwest Ale is touted as the brewery’sfinest beer, while her Hoptoria took Spinnakers into the world of highly hoppedIPAs. “I’ve designed some fairly big, hoppy beers,” she admits, “but I’m moving awayfrom hops a little bit now. I’m really into drier beers, like our DragonFly Rye Saison,and sour beers.”Spinnakers started the brewpub wave 30 years ago and remains on the cutting edge

of the micro-brewing business. With the gastro-pub’s female chef Ali Ryan pairingHadfield’s brews with fine food, there’s a woman’s touch to the Spinnakers’ food anddrink experience.

Brewsters Before BrewersWhile Hadfield’s brewing job may seem novel in 2015, it was once commonplace.Long before there were industrial breweries and brewers’ guilds, women made beer,brewing for both family consumption and local commercial sales. In medievalEurope, it was the female “alewife” or brewster who brewed the everyday ale, theprofession only becoming the domain of men after alcohol production became moreregulated and brewing turned into a trade.Beer was a daily necessity, and it was a perishable product, produced in small

batches. It wasn’t until the discovery of hops, which preserved the beer and extendedits life, that beer could be produced in larger quantities and shipped, which is whenmen took over the work of brewing and selling beer.But women are taking back the brewing business, at least in part thanks to the

recent explosion in craft brewing. The Pink Boots Society, a group helping womenadvance their brewing careers, now has more than 1,500 members, with chapters

24 EAT MAGAZINE JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2015

SISTERS OF THE TAP

Text by Chinda Chavich Photos by Rebecca Wellman

Kala Hadfield - brewmasterat Spinnakers

WOMEN TAKE BACK BREWING

Celebrate Victoria Beer Week March 7 - 15victoriabeerweek.com


25www.eatmagazine.ca MARCH | APRIL 20145Cont’d on the next page

Moon Under Water – co-ownerChelsea Potter

across the U.S. and around the world. The only Canadianchapter is in Vancouver, headed by Lundy Dale, who works atR&B Brewing. “It’s definitely changing all the time,” says Dale, a certified

“cicerone,” a beer expert and educator. Dale has long been amember of CAMRA (the British-based Campaign for Real Ale),and though she was once the only female member, she sayswomen now make up nearly half of CAMRA’s members in B.C.Women are drinking more beer, she says, thanks to the

explosion of new craft breweries, which offer such a variety offlavour profiles and styles of beer to try. When surveyed, moremen say beer is their favourite alcoholic beverage (53 percentcompared with 20 percent of women), but in the U.S. at least,women account for 37 percent of craft beer consumption.Dale, who is also responsible for the consumer side of Pink

Boots—Barley’s Angels—says the group offers women beerlovers lots of social and educational events, from cask nights atlocal pubs to beer and chocolate or cheese pairings.“Craft beer can be intimidating, but it’s all about education,”

she says, “and women want to learn.”

The SisterhoodCraft breweries are small by definition, so it’s no surprise theyare family affairs. Many B.C. breweries have husband-and-wifeteams at the helm, women making beer, pouring beer andselling it. Karen Skadsheim, founder of Townsite Brewing inPowell River, recently turned her operation over to brewerCédric Dauchot and his wife, Chloe Smith, now the brewerymanager, with Michelle Zutz, described on their website as “awisecracking, determinedly country, mother of three” incharge of sales. In Saanichton, Category 12 Brewery is owned by Karen

Kuzyk and her brewer husband, Michael. Their crispUnsanctioned Saison, with a suitcase-hauling traveller inpumps on the label, definitely speaks to women on the move.And at Victoria’s Moon under Water, Chelsea Potter is jazzed

about selling her husband Clay’s latest Farmhouse IPA, withVancouver artist Bjauna Sorensen’s edgy self-portrait on thecan.“We are releasing this new beer, Hip as Funk, with a power-

ful, strong, non-sexualized woman depicted on the label,” saysPotter. Potter admits she fell into the beer business two yearsago, thanks to her husband Clay’s brewing education and theopportunity to purchase the Moon brewery. And while the 26-year-old former model says some consumers assume she’s beenhired by the company to pour beer at tasting events andfestivals, she’s learned to hold her own as the brewery’smarketing and sales manager. And as more women learn thebrewing ropes, she says their influence will be felt.“Women are a huge emerging demographic among beer con-

sumers, and though there are only a few women brewing, halfof the owners are women,” Potter says.“We’re all friends,” she adds, noting several ongoing

professional and consumer groups that offer education andtasting opportunities for women, including the Victoria-basedSisters of the Tap, organized by Spinnakers’ events coordinatorLindsay McQueen.



Spinnakers

308 Catherine St, Victoria, spinnakers.com

R&B Brewing Co.

54-4 Avenue East, Vancouver, r-and-b.com

Townsite Brewing

5824 Ash Ave, Powell River, townsitebrewing.com

Category 12 Brewing

Unit C, 2200 Keating Cross Road, Saanichton, category12beer.com

Moon Under Water

350 Bay St, Victoria, moonunderwater.ca

Dogwood Organic Brewery

8284 Sherbrooke St, Vancouver, dogwoodbrew.com

Category 12 co-owner and ‘operations guru’ Karen Kuzyk

Cory Pelan and his bloodsausage (aka black pudding)at The Whole Beast

A Brewery of Her OwnBrewer Claire (Connolly) Wilson hopes to soon be pouring beer to eager tasters at herown Dogwood Organic Brewery in Vancouver. Wilson studied to become a brewer inthe UK, graduating with a degree in Brewing and Distilling from Heriot-Watt Universityin Edinburgh. She’s had plenty of experience brewing at both small brewpubs and largeindustrial breweries since graduating and is devoted to making “really challenging, in-teresting beer.”Her new “brewer owned and operated brewery” fills a 12,000-square-foot industrial

space along SE Marine Drive, where stainless steel tanks have been installed next to hernew canning line. “I have three beers in the tank at the moment, and I hope to have thetasting room open within two weeks,” she said when we spoke in January.Dogwood Organic Brewery will initially produce four varieties of organic beer, in-

cluding a hoppy 100-IBU IPA (9.5% ABV) and a Bumblebee Honey Ale (25 IBUs and 5%

ABV) that will be available on tap and at retail in cans, kegs, casks and growlers. “Thecraft customer base is growing by 30 to 40 percent a year,” she says. “We’re going fullyorganic, which will be our identifier in the market.”Women, she says, have better palates than men. “They taste more and are more

sensitive to faults.” So it’s important to offer a well-made and well-balanced beer toattract female customers. Women also appreciate quality, she says, and the high stan-dards required for organic production. “Everything is trackable and traceable, and we willpurchase everything we can locally—90 percent of our malt from Armstrong and ourorganic hops from growers in Lillooet.”While some experts suggest women are more likely to drink light, sweet and fruity

brews, Wilson says it’s all a matter of taste. “When making the transition to craft beer,you can’t go straight to a hoppy IPA,” she says, “but I can find anyone a beer they willlike.” E


27www.eatmagazine.ca JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2015



The Exceptional Eats!5th Edition

The Best Restaurant, Shops & Food People in Victoria

BEST NEW RESTAURANTThe Wheelies crew: Joel Harrison - owner on left, Kai Musseau –chef, middle, Jay Pincombe - owner on right.

Rebecca Wellm

an


LET'S EAT OUTRESTAURANTS/LOUNGES/CAFES/

BISTROS/EATERIES

1 Best new addition to the food anddrink sceneIt could be a new restaurant, shop, café or

product. What's your pick?WHEELIES MOTORCYCLE CAFE

(2620 Rock Bay Avenue, (250) 995-9359)RUNNER UP: Part and Parcel

2 Best Restaurant Of The Year: This restaurant always delivers-in service,selection, atmosphere, and execution. It's thebest restaurant in the city-in every way, everytime.

BRASSERIE L’ECOLE(1715 Government St., (250) 475-6260)

RUNNER UP: Stage

3 Best Dish of the Year: You really must try the _____ at _____! Whatdish was so fantastic that you will rememberit forever - or at least until next year?

KIMCHEE MEATBALLS at RELISH FOOD &COFFEE

(920 Pandora Ave, (250) 590-8464)RUNNERS UP: Steak Frites at Brasserie

L’ecole, Any tacos at Tacofino

4 I Didn't See That Coming: Where did you try a restaurant dish outsideyour usual, and it surprised you and wasamazing? What was it and where did you eatit?

BEEF TONGUE at PART and PARCEL(2656 Quadra Street, Victoria, 778) 406-0888)RUNNERS UP: Pork Ramen at Foo & any

octopus at Bodega and Stage

5 Restaurant Cooking Local:Best Restaurant Cooking Local: Local = Fresh+ Delicious. Who does farm-to-table best andsupports our local farms? What restaurant isit?

10 ACRES BISTRO + BAR + FARM(611 Courtney St, (250) 220-8008)

RUNNERS UP: Relish, Part and Parcel

6 Outside the Core: Let's head out of the city. I know this amazinglittle place in the middle of nowhere...Name a great restaurant not in the city that'sworth a special trip (keep it close to home,though, no planes).

NOURISH GARDEN BISTRO505 Quayle Rd, Saanich, (250) 590-6346

RUNNERS UP: Unsworth Vineyards Restaurant(Cowichan Valley), Point no Point (West Coast

Rd)

7 Pho the Love of It:Best Pho. Where is it, short of jumping a planeto Vietnam?

PHO VY (Sadly, it’s reported they are now closed))RUNNERs UP: Green Leaf, Pho-Ever

8 Sandwich me:A great sandwich is a beautiful thing. Whodoes it best... and which sandwich is yourfavourite?

“THE PORK” (root beer-braised)at WHEELIES

(2620 Rock Bay Avenue, (250) 995-9359)RUNNERD UP: Porchetta at Roast, Porchetta

at Meat and Bread

Cont’d on the next page


WE’RE MORE THAN GREAT SEAFOOD

250 598 8555 | www.marinarestaurant.com1327 BEACH DRIVE AT THE OAK BAY MARINA

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The polls are closed. The results are in. Who won the hearts and taste buds of Victoria?

An extraordinary number of readers cast their votes (up again this year) for their favourites. Insome categories the margin between winners was knife thin, while in others there were clearfavourites. Congratulations to all the EE winners and to the amazing food and drinks industryin Victoria. Please, dear reader, support your favourite food and drink establishments and enjoy.

MOST UNIQUE DISHPart and Parcel: Beef Tongue Sandwich with housemade lamb bacon, grilledpickled red onion, horseradish mustard, scallion aioli, fresh greens, Frys ciabatta.

Rebecca Wellm

an



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9 "Bang on" Brunch:Who kills it? From a hash to a benny, from pancakes to griddlesand coffee, who has your brunch covered?

JAM CAFE(542 Herald St, Victoria, 778) 440-4489)RUNNERS UP: The Village, Mo:Lé

10 The Skinny Wallet of It:Fat on flavor, slim on dollars, where do you go?

HERNANDE’Z COCINA (735 Yates St,, (250) 884-5313)

RUNNERS UP: Foo Asian Street Food, La Taquisa

11 Sweet on You:Is it a sticky cinnamon bun, a dark pain au chocolat, or a silkencreme brulee? Where do you go to soothe the sweet cravings thatcall?Please name the sweet and the restaurant/bakery/cafe/shop.

MACARONS AT FOL EPI(101-398 Harbour Rd., (250) 477-8882)

RUNNERS UP: Pain au Chocolat at Fry’s Red Wheat Bread,Crunut at Crust Bakery

12 Delicious and Nutritious... Feed me!A meal out can be both delicious - and healthy.Tell us where you go when you want to treat both your palate andyour body?

RE-BAR(50 Bastion Square, (250) 361-9223)RUNNERS UP: Be Love, Nourish

13 The Burger is a Thing of BeautyBurgers are only getting better, where do you go to sink yourteeth into the deep flesh of an exquisite or simply perfect burger?What makes it the best? Veggie burgers too.

BIN 4(911 Yates St #180, (250) 995-9359)RUNNERS UP: Pink Bicycle, Big Wheel

14 Best Front-of-House Crew: Your hard day sheds with a warm smile from the host or host-ess. Your server seems to know what you want before you do. Youmatter in this restaurant, even if it is your first time. Attentive,authentic, warm and professional. Which Front of House Crewnails it?

BRASSERIE L’ECOLE(1715 Government St., (250) 475-6260)RUNNERS UP: Stage, Little Jumbo

15 The Pride of BC:What is the best restaurant you have been to in BritishColumbia. It has the best food and service you have enjoyed. (Itdoesn't have to be fancy.)

SOBO(311 Neill St, Tofino, (250) 725-2341)

RUNNERS UP: Bishops (Vancouver), Hawksworth (Vancouver)

16 Best Place to Take a Kid:A pint for us, chocolate milk for them. 2014 saw new liquor lawsthat allows pubs to serve minors until 9pm. Which pub knowshow to treat children the best?

FERNWOOD INN(1302 Gladstone Ave, (250) 412-2001)

RUNNERS UP: The Marina Restaurant, Prima Strada

“Mike at the Oak Bay Butcher is passionate about what he does and has gained a lot ofknowledge about meat and charcuterie and organic living in general. Plus he's funny.”—Exceptional Eats! voter comment

Rebecca Wellm

an

Bin 4 – "Pre-Season Favourite" 63 Acres Premium BC Beef, FraserValley back bacon, house made roasted jalapeno guacamole,bruschetta, parmigiano, roasted garlic aioli, butter lettuce

FAVOURITE BURGER OF THE YEAR



Dear Mom,I’m planning our weekend up in Parksville and I can’t quite make up my mind where

we’re going to stay. Will it be Tigh-Na-Mara or The Beach Club Resort? Both arewonderful and have everything we want for our weekend.Both are on the ocean. We can take those long walks along the Parksville beach we love

so much. Rain or sun, it’s absolutely breathtaking. Remember to pack your rain gear just incase.I’ve already planned our dinners. The first night, we’re off to dinner at The Cedars at

Tigh-Na-Mara where Chef Eric Edwards has created a local, regional and internationalmenu. I’m definitely into the Crispy Leg of Duck Confit and you must try the salmon. It’sprepared on a Cedar plank with an almond crust. One of my favourites.The Beach Club has one of the most wonderful restaurants, Pacific Prime. I already know

you’re going to order Chef Rick Davidson’s West Coast Bouillabaisse. For me, it’s hard tochoose, but I think it might be the prime beef.I’ve booked our spa times too. We’ll start Friday afternoon with a visit to Tigh-Na-Mara

where I’ve booked the Signature Pacific Body Balance and the Grotto Mineral Pool. Wedon’t have to leave the spa for our lunch. The Treetop Tapas & Grill provides endless tapas.We don’t want to fill up but we do want to savour our catch up time. Early Saturday morning, we can do our workout at the Fitness gym at The Beach Club.

We need to work off the glorious food. Let’s take a walk along the beach again and then graba Triple Berry Parfait at Pacific Prime. It’ll make us feel righteous and ready for our nextluxurious afternoon of spa where I’ve booked a Customized Facial and the Ultimate SpaManicure for both of us. We’ll get a Boxed Lunch from Pacific Prime so we can just relaxand enjoy our time. You know Mom, I got so excited writing about both of these wonderful resorts, I’ve

decided to book a night at each. Tigh-Na-Mara is beautifully situated on the ocean in arustic setting. I’ve booked our favourite cabin. We’ll be able to spend our down-timesitting in front of the fireplace. At the Beach Club, every room every room has a great viewso you’ll get your wish. All the rooms are luxurious and come complete with a gas fireplaceand a kitchen just in case we get hungry.By the way, we still have Sunday brunch at Tigh-Na-Mara and Afternoon Tea at The

Beach Club. Can’t wait! And, we haven’t mentioned the libations or desserts. More in mynext letter.Love, Patricia

A Visit to ParksvilleEAT SPECIAL PROMOTION

Tigh-Na-Mara Seaside Spa Resort1155 Resort Drive, Parksville, BC (250) 248-2072, tigh-na-mara.com

The Beach Club Resort181 Beachside Dr, Parksville, BC (250) 248-8999, beachclubbc.com

LET'S EAT INPLACES | LOCAL FOOD PRODUCTS |

SPECIALTY FOOD SHOPS | MARKETS |GROCERS

17 Best Take-Out:It's the afternoon and you're thinking aboutdinner - but you don't feel like cookingtonight. What do you grab on the way home?Think restaurants, delis and food shops -who's got the best to go?

FOO ASIAN STREET FOOD(1302 Gladstone Ave, (250) 412-2001)RUNNERS UP: Baan Thai, Noodle Box

18 Oui, C'est La Meilleure:Best Baguette in town. Where and why?

FOL EPI(101-398 Harbour Rd., (250) 477-8882)RUNNERS UP: Fry’s, Wild Fire Bakery

19 Favourite (Locally Owned) Store:Need a chef's knife, tablecloth, flowers, pot,candles or dining room chair? And you're nota fan of big-box shopping. Where do you go tobuy it?

COOK CULTURE(1317 Blanshard St, Victoria, (250) 590-8161)RUNNERS UP: Capital Iron, Penna & Co.

20 Best Specialty Food Store:You're having a dinner party and you're cook-ing something special (maybe you've nevermade it before!)Where do you go to get that "something" thatmakes the dish special?

ROOT CELLAR(2620 Rock Bay Avenue, (250) 995-9359)RUNNERS UP: Charelli’s, Choux Choux

1715 Government St, Victoria, (250) 475-6260

21 Best Stall at a Market?Who is selling the most fantastic thing at amarket - name the product and the purveyor?

THE CHOCOLATE PROJECT(1701 Douglas St.)

RUNNERS UP: Olive The Senses, Salt SpringIsland Cheese

22 I'm Health Conscious:They say that you are what you eat.Where do you shop for food that is healthy orbased on dietary restrictions?

LIFESTYLE MARKETS(2950 Douglas St, (250) 384-3388)

23 Place to Buy Meat:Many shops, delis and restaurants are offer-ing house made meats - charcuterie, cold cuts,salami and sausages for delivery and in-house.What is the best way to satisfy yourcarnivorous cravings?

THE WHOLE BEAST( 2032 Oak Bay Ave, (250) 590-7675)

RUNNERS UP: Village Butcher, Choux ChouxCharcuterie, Slater’s First Class Meats

Cont’d on the next page

“Willis at 10 Acres, he gets me. Andmy other favourite sexy bartender,Zach. I think we were separated atbirth.”—Exceptional Eats! voter comment

Rebecca Wellm

an

Brasserie L’ecole servers: left to rightDanielle, Garner and Sterling

BEST SERVICE


24 Best Local Food Product orIngredient:You've got friends and family visiting,and you take pride in BC's food diver-sity. Okay, maybe you've been known tobrag about the largess of this province.What local food, product or ingredientare you sure to introduce them to?

BC SPOT PRAWNSRUNNERS UP: Wild Salmon, Cold

Comfort Ice Cream

LET'S DRINKWINE | CRAFT BEER | SPIRITS |

CIDER | COFFEE | TEA |NON-ALCOHOLIC

25 Oh, my Head. Need Water,Need __________. Best Hang-overCure:What glorious food and venue curesthat headache and dry mouth from toomuch too much last night?

FLOYD’S DINER(866 Yates St., (250) 381-5114)RUNNERS UP: Jam Café, Mo:Lé

26 Lounge Lizard:Relaxing, hands wrapped around a stemor a tumbler, this hotel lounge or bardelivers what you need and love.

VENETO TAPA LOUNGE(1450 Douglas St, (250) 383-7310)

RUNNERS UP: Clives Classic Lounge,Bengal Lounge

27 You Say Champagne, I sayProsecco:You want an excellent selection, a rangeof prices, and a personable, knowledge-able staff.Best store to buy wine. What's yourrecommendation?

CASCADIA LIQUOR(Multiple locations)

RUNNERS UP: Everything Wine, Fort &Foul Bay

28 Outstanding Local Beer of theYear:Impress your out-of-town host with abottle of local brewski.Name the local brew that has everyonein a froth?

HOYNE DARK MATTER(2740 Bridge St, (250) 590-5758)

RUNNERS UP: Driftwood Fat Tug, HoynePilsner

29 You Brought Wine:Impress your out-of-town host with abottle from a local winery.What would you bring?

UNSWORTH PINOT NOIR(2915 Cameron Taggart Rd, Cobble Hill,

(250) 929-2292)RUNNERS UP: Zanatta Domasco, Averill

Creek Pinot Noir

30 Local Beverage of the Year:This local beverage was, in a word,remarkable. Be it wine, beer, cider,spirits, soda, tea, coffee you name it.What really impressed you this year?Tell us what it was and which companymade it.

AMPERSAND GIN(4077 Lanchaster Rd., Duncan, (250)

737-1880)RUNNERS UP: Discovery Coffee’s Kenya,

Phillips Root Beer

31 Best Coffee Purveyor:Who makes the best coffee? No need forexpanding on this. You love coffee andyou know who you are.

Mulitple Locations

DISCOVERY COFFEERUNNERS UP: Caffee Fantastico, Habit

Coffee

Single Location

HEY HAPPYRUNNERS UP: Heist Coffee, Drum-

roaster Coffee

32 Sour, Neat, Dirty and New:This drink is a single piece of perfectionand it is the best cocktail, bar none ofthe year. What was it and where did youdrink it?

“20th CENTURY” at VENETO TAPALOUNGE

(1450 Douglas St, (250) 383-7310)RUNNERS UP Tied: Bourbon Sour – Fiamo

Old Fashioned – The ChurchillSpurs and Saddles – Little Jumbo

LET'S GIVECREDIT

PEOPLE | GROUPS | FOOD HEROES| TRENDS | IDEAS

33 Gilded Gatherings:Which food or drink event, festival orseminar most excited you this year?

CULINAIRERUNNERS UP: Brewery & the Beast,

Feast of Fields

34 Worst Trend of 2014: Chipotle in Everything? Small Plates?Fusion? Sauce Swooshes and Dots? TheAvalanche of Kale?Help us weed out the most awful trenddu jour! What is it?

KALE IN EVERYTHINGRUNNERS UP: Gluten-free diet

(apologies to celiacs)), bacon (but wereally we still want it), overpriced smallplates, swooshes and dots on the plate.

35 Best New Trend of 2014:We know what you hated. Now tell uswhat you liked best about 2014 (foodwise, of course)?

RAMENRUNNERS UP: Small plates, tacos,

cauliflower, craft beer, cold brew coffee,fresh vegetable dishes, resurgence of

sparkling wine


“Having the baristas at Discovery

Coffee, James Bay, sing "Hot ginger"

to me spontaneously one day when I

ordered their ginger syrup, in hot

water. It made me laugh on a bad day.

It also happened to be the day friends

from out of town were meeting me

there and they also got a kick out of it.

The baristas at that coffee shop are

awesome!”

—Exceptional Eats! voter comment

36 Being Social:Who do you follow? Which restaurant, store, food writer or bloggerwould you follow to the ends of the earth? Tell us who it is and whereyou found it? Is it on Twitter, Facebook, Instagram, Tumblr or Pin-terest?

EAT (twitter, facebook, instagram)RUNNERS UP:

Twitter: Don Genova, Heidi Fink, Shelora SheldonInstagram: Discovery Coffee, Part and Parcel, Heist

37 A Year of Living Sustainably:What business, association or non-profit best promotes asustainable food system?

ROOT CELLAR(1286 McKenzie Ave, (250) 477-9495)

RUNNERS UP: Lifecycles, Big Wheel, Finest at Sea, Makaria Farm

38 People Skills:Did you have an amazing experience at a food shop, store or marketthis year that made you feel special? Maybe it made you want to tellyour friends?Tell us your story and the store.

“Sarah-Amalia at Cascadia Uptown was not only incredibly knowledgeableand one of the most personable people I've ever encountered but impossiblynice and surprisingly tactful.”

“Geoff at Slaters First Class Meats is the most attentive butcher around. Healways remembers my preferences so that I hardly have to specify when Imake an order.”

“The Root Cellar - always fantastic and FAST customer service.”

“All small restaurant owners should get my credit. They work asses off andcompletion is always chopping at the small window of population we have inVictoria. I dislike mean reviews on Yelp, Urbanspoon for places that have beenopen for only a month, give them a chance!”

“I love my visits to Charelli's just to see the cheese shop girls. I always feelwarm, happy and at ease in the hustle and bustle of their small but happyshop. They are wonderful, talented, and wise. I can't not go back!”

“Yasir at The Fig Delicatessen always provides the best service in Victoria!”

“As simple as this sounds, I plan my weekly grocery shop around the workshifts of a particular gal at Thrifty Foods, Hillside Mall. Shelagh is a gal fridayand has plenty of hats, my favourite is how she packs my groceries.Perfection in a bag.”

“Daniel at Patisserie Daniel always make me feel special: especially whenservice is slow or he doesn't have what I was looking for, he always slips insome treat, it is unasked for, and not expected, and much appreciated.”

“Cook Culture, made me feel really listened to, accommodated and special.Having difficulty finding "great" kitchen knives the staff recommended theceramic knife and it has proven to be my favorite knife, reliable, light weight,and always sharp!”

“Ottavio - the deli folks are amazing. They love cheese, I love cheese, we lovecheese together!”

Rebecca Wellm

an

BEER 0F THE YEAR


Here are the prize draw winners for the5th Exceptional Eats! Awards. Thanks toeveryone who participated and voted.We will be in touch with the luckywinners on how to redeem your prize.

10 Acres Bistro + Bar + Farm$100 Gift CertificateSandra GallupCamilles Restaurant Two $50 Gift CertificatesMike BarberCanoe BrewpubA Canoe branded hoodieJanna Zahorodniuk

Cascadia Liquor StoresA private wine tasting for four, led by acertified Cascadia Liquor StoresommelierAlicia BertrandCrooked Goose Bistro$50 Gift CertificateGreg DamantDelta Ocean Pointe HotelVIP Patio Party for 6 people consistingof dinner for 6 with cocktails/craft beerPaige Erickson-McGeeFernwood Inn$60 Gift CertificateJasmine Wong

Spinnakers3-course Dinner for Two w/ BeerPairings & One Night Stay w/ Breakfastfor TwoNiamh MurphyGalloping Goose Grille$164 Gift CertificateJ. MalnarickHester Creek Estate WineryMagnum of Cabernet Franc with boxVicki NeilsonHeron Rock Bistro$50 Gift CertificateTaryn TerjesenHillside Liquor StoreTwo $50 Gift CertificatesAdrienne Forest

Hudson on First$100 Gift CertificateMichael RensingOughtred Coffee & Tea$100 Gift CertificateCaroline HudsonPescatores/Oyster Bar$100 Gift CertificateJanell LundgrenRocky Road WineryGift Certificate worth $100Robyn KyleSilk RoadTea & Chocolate Pairing Gift Certificate worth $300Kailey MacLeod

Spud.ca$150 Gift CertificateJill YewellUnsworth Vineyards & Restaurant Lunch, Wine tasting & Tour for Four$100 valueJeff JeglumVictoria Public Market$50 in Market BucksWendy SavilleThe Whole BeastOne year of meat valued at $120.00.Cierra Catarino

This year's Lifetime AchievementAward winner, Cory Pelan, hasbeen an outspoken champion ofthe sustainable food movement

for two decades. Since moving to Vancouver Island from themainland (where he began his career as a sous chef at YaletownBrewing Company in 1996; first cook at Rex Rotisserie & Grillin 1996; and executive sous chef at Big River Brewing in 2002),Cory has been a fixture on the local food scene.

Pelan has served as past president and treasurer (and is acurrent board member) of Island Chefs Collaborative and as a

board member of Slow Food Vancouver Island. He has also beena stewardship team member representing Vancouver Island forFarm Folk City Folk.

Cory's career on Vancouver Island began as executive chef atBravo Restaurant in 2002, a stint as executive sous chef atBrentwood Bay Lodge in 2004, followed by executive chefpositions at Penny Farthing Pub, Vintage Wine Bar & Grill,Arbutus Ridge Golf and Country Club, and Ristorante La Piolabefore opening his own artisan salumeria, The Whole Beast, in2011.

Sharing a space with the Village Butcher on Oak Bay Avenue,The Whole Beast features artisan-cured, ethically producedmeat using whole, locally raised animals. Cory's passion for thetraditional craft of curing meat, his knowledge of how theanimals were raised and dispatched, and his love for hisproducts is obvious when we spoke recently, as he wasrearranging dozens of products in his shop's display case.

"We want to offer the best quality ingredients fromresponsible, ethical farmers," Pelan explained as he turned toslice my lunchmeat order. "That's our mandate—to serve hand-made, nose-to-tail products sold by the people who make it.

We're chefs, and we're in an enviable position at The WholeBeast. Everything we like, we make from our own recipes."

"Another part of our mandate is to inform and educate ourcustomers," Cory continued, "There's a lack of education in themarket place, as well as a lack of quality meat products. We wantto gain our customers' trust, and our size helps us here. We'rethree highly skilled labourers versus factories of unskilledlabourers serving the massive, commercial food industry.Sincerity, ethics, respect for tradition ... there's a big market forthis."

The Whole Beast features a rotating offering of 50 productsincluding seven varieties of handmade salami, chorizo, bacon,prosciutto, pepperoni, and pates, as well as nose-to-tail, in-houseproducts like blood sausage, liverwurst, headcheese, cotechino,corned lamb, and pork tongue. There is also a line of preserveson the small shop's shelves including sauerkraut, kimchi,pickles, and mustard.

“We may eventually expand into wholesale or a second retailoutlet," Pelan continued with a sigh. “But I don't want to borrowmoney. I guess we'll eventually outgrow our space in back, ourkitchen, but I don't want to expand until I can do it on my own."

39 The Exceptional Eats! Hall of Fame & 2015 Lifetime Achievement Award: Give recognition to the person who has spent their lifetimecommitted to exemplary, sincere, and passionate culinaryexcellence.

CORY PELAN


www.wickinn.comtel 1.800.333.4604

Meals are like the punctuation marks of a great trip. They give shape to the narrative of your

adventure. We encourage you to explore Tofino and then come visit us at the Wickaninnish

Inn to enjoy fresh baked pastries in the morning, a lovingly prepared picnic lunch, or a

dinner at The Pointe Restaurant that will put an exclamation point on your time here.

@TasteWickInnBC The Pointe Restaurant 250.725.3106

LEAVE ROOM FOR THE WICK

The Prize Winners

FOOD PERSON 0F THE YEAR



LOCAL KITCHENg



Put the prongs down, this is finger food; food that’s lovingly

scooped up and eaten with a Hail Mary in hopes that all the

saucy bits don’t fall down your front. And if they do, that’s

OK too. That’s why napkins were invented.

No Forks Allowed!

Spicy Sauce

1 cup peanut butter

1 cup hot water

2 garlic cloves, minced

2 Tbsp sriracha sauce

2 Tbsp Thai red curry paste

2 Tbsp coconut palm sugar

2 Tbsp apple cider vinegar

Filling

2 lb peeled and deveined

raw prawns

2 garlic cloves, minced

Sea salt, to taste

Vegetable oil

2 tsp fish sauce

2 yellow peppers, thinly sliced

½ red onion, diced

1/3 cup chopped peanuts

1/3 cup chopped cilantro

Iceberg or Bibb lettuce leaves

Lime wedges

To make the sauce:

Whirl peanut butter in a blender with hot water, garlic, sriracha, curry

paste, sugar and vinegar until well mixed. Taste and add more sriracha,

if desired.

Toss prawns with garlic and sea salt. Coat the bottom of a frying pan

with oil and set over medium-high heat. When hot, add prawns. Stir-fry

until cooked, 3 to 5 minutes. Add fish sauce and toss to coat, then

remove from heat.

Fill lettuce leaves with prawn mixture, sliced peppers and onion.

Sprinkle with peanuts and cilantro. Top with dollops of sauce and a

squeeze of fresh lime, then wrap and eat!

Tip: To make these more of a meal, add cooked rice or crispy noodles

Spicy Prawn Lettuce CupsMake with your favourite type of prawn—heavenly spot prawns, when in season, or sweet juicy sidestripes. Serves 6 (with lots of extra sauce!)



Churros are the stylishly hip cousin to thedownmarket doughnut. Normally eaten forbreakfast in other parts of the world (Spain,France, the Philippines, Portugal, Mexico toname a few), I love these uber-crispy, sugarybites anytime. Rather than shaped into a circle,churros are thin wands of dough, Unfurled from the binding circle of thedoughnut, these thin squiggly wands aretraditionally paired with hot chocolate or cafécon leche. Yet they’re also irresistible with tart,gingery, rhubarb compote and salted chocolatesauce. Just saying.

THE DOUGNUT UNDONE

Dress up your favourite homemadeor store-bought chocolate saucewith pinches of flaky sea salt.



1 cup all-purpose flour

2 tsp chai spice*

1 cup water

½ cup unsalted butter

2 Tbsp sugar

¼ tsp sea salt

3 large eggs, beaten

Vegetable oil, for frying

1/3 cup granulated sugar

1 tsp ground cinnamon

1¼ cups coconut palm sugar

½ cup each vodka and water

5 slices fresh ginger

5 cups chopped fresh rhubarb*

1 cup chopped strawberries

In a bowl, stir flour with chai spice.

In a saucepan set over high heat, stir water with butter, sugar and salt until melted and

evenly mixed. Bring to a boil, then stir in flour. Reduce heat to low. Using a wooden spoon,

stir vigorously until mixture forms into a ball.

Remove from heat. Continue to stir, gradually beating in eggs until evenly mixed.

In small bowl, stir sugar with cinnamon. Set aside. Fill a large, heavy-bottomed, deep

saucepan one-third full with oil and set over medium-high heat. Oil is hot enough for frying

when it reaches 375°F. Or drop in a small knob of dough. If it sizzles and browns, oil is ready.

Spoon churros dough into a piping bag fitted with a large tip. Pipe long strips of dough into

hot oil. (Tip: Use a knife to slice strips.) Don’t crowd the pan! Fry until deep golden, about 2

minutes per side. (Reduce heat to medium, as needed, to maintain even temperature of oil

and prevent burning.) Using tongs, carefully remove churros to a plate lined with paper

towels to absorb excess oil for 10 seconds, then toss in spiced sugar.

Serve warm with rhubarb compote and your favourite chocolate sauce dressed up with

pinches of flaky sea salt.

*Make your own chai spice by blending together 1 Tbsp ground ginger, 2 tsp ground

cinnamon and 1 tsp each ground cardamom, allspice and cloves.

Place sugar in a saucepan and pour in vodka and water. Add ginger and bring to a boil over

medium-high heat. Boil for 5 minutes. Stir in rhubarb. Adjust heat so mixture simmers. Stir

often until rhubarb is really soft and starts to fall apart, 6 to 8 minutes. Remove from heat

and stir in strawberries. Using a potato masher, coarsely mash. Cool, then discard ginger

slices.

*Note: If using frozen rhubarb, reduce liquid by half. If mixture is too watery, strain

excess liquid before mashing.

Chai ChurrosThese taste best when just made: hot, sugary and crunchy. Bring on the dunking sauces.Serves 6.

Vodka-Soaked Rhubarb CompoteThis isn’t a typical sauce for churros but does add tangy sweet-and-sour flair. Makes about 4 cups.

Text, recipes by JENNIFER DANTERFood styling by JENNIFER DANTER

Photography by MICHAEL TOURIGNY Art Direction by JENNIFER DANTER & GARY HYNES


BEGUILLINGMarqués de Murrieta Rioja Reserva Finca Ygay 2008Rioja, Spain$30 +207027Tempranillo, garnacha, mazuelo andgraciano yields gentle notes of driedcherry, subtle wild raspberry andcranberry. The finessed palate carriesleather, fragrant red flowers and sunwarmed pottery, lifted with delicateacidity. Drinking lovely now withtender young pork or truffles, but willcontinue to gain complexity over thenext five plus years. 90 points.

SENSUALNexus One 2012Ribera Del Duero, Spain$25 +362376Scented wild blackberry, tobacco,pencil and whiffs of dark florals openthis fine grained and structured red.Textured black fruit is lifted with cherryjuiciness through to the lingeringtobacco-clad finish. Pair with younglamb dishes. 90 points.

NIMBLEFamilia Zuccardi Q Tempranillo 2010Santa Rosa, Mendoza, Argentina$22 +165662Dense, spicy, ripe black and cola fruitaromas leap out of the glass. Thecompact palate surprises with freshness- bright, nimble black and blue fruit,finely rasped pepper and chocolatetannins. A hint of dark cocoa and driedfigs close out the lingering finish.Supple mole pork tenderloin would bea killer pair. 89 points.

SUPPLEArtadi Tempranillo Vineyard Selection 2012Rioja, Spain*$27 +775585Supple leather and fragrant cherryaromas from this high altitude, mediumbodied red. The round palate carriesyouthful cherry and strawberry, chewytannins and raspberry compote. Bestwith pork chop or lamb kababs.88 points.

STRUCTUREDQuinta do CrastoDouro Vinho Tinto 2013Douro Valley, Portugal$20 +499764 Twenty+ year old tinta roriz, tintabarroca, touriga franca and touriganaçional shows pure black plum, blackcherry and youthful violets. Thestructured, peppery, stony and precisepalate draws textured tannins andgrippy tannins to a lingering bitter blackcherry and candied violets finish. Pourwith lamb. 89 points.

RUSTICStag’s Hollow Tempranillo 2012Okanagan Valley, BC*$30 +617571Camp smoke, branch, cinnamon bark,strawberry, earthy tobacco aromas. Thecrunchy palate throws dark smokedberries, toasted wood and prune.Tannins moderate, but grippy and cedarhewn, finishing with bitter coffee. Pairthis rustic red with grilled lamb/porkkabobs. 87 points.


g VINCABULARY By Treve Ring

Tempranillo {tem-pran-NEE-yo} is as prolific as thebulls, and as ancient as winemaking in Spain– dating back to the Phoenicians. The name is

the diminutive of the Spanish temprano, early, andrefers to the grape’s early ripening and early harvest.This short growing season is what allows it to surviveand thrive in the harsh continental climatic conditionsacross central and northern Spain and throughoutPortugal. Today there are dozens of names for this deep

coloured grape, including Aragonês, Cencibel, TintaFina, Tinta Roriz, Tinto de Toro and Ull de Llebre.Clone and location matters, though the hallmarktobacco leaves, dark black fruit, leather and plums areexpressed across its homeland of Spain, as well as inPortugal, Argentina, Washington, California and via asplash here in BC. Lower in tannins and potent inflavour, tempranillo is oft blended with garnacha,mazuelo and graciano, as in the classic blend of Rioja.

*Asterisks denote wines that are only available at the winery or select private liquor stores.

whiskey SOUR

Classic Cocktails

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The Conclusion:The smooth drinking Blonde Ale from Tofino makes enjoying your fish and chips thatmuch better. The chips get potato-y-er, the fish gets richer, the batter tastes crisperand, hopefully, this pairing makes that summertime feeling come just that muchquicker.


644 BROUGHTON STREET, VICTORIA, BC V8W 1C9 [email protected] | 250.384.9994

Artisan Wine Shop AWS | @ArtisanWineBC

HOME OF THE CASE CLUB!NEW OFFERS EVERY MONTH

RECEIVE UP TO

55% OFF GOVERNMENT LIQUOR STORE PRICES ON B.C. WINES BY THE CASE

call or email us today to BECOME A CASE CLUB MEMBER!

Complimentary 1 hour parking with purchases of $10 or more.

g A BEER AND A BITE By Colin Hynes

Colin Hynes

The Beer:Tofino Brewing Co. - Blonde Ale (TofinoBC)

Tofino brewing is a pretty laid-back brewery(they have a skateboard ramp in their ware-house), but that same laid-back attitude isn’tused towards their products. Their perfectlycrafted blonde ale has some great floralnotes, and stays on the lighter side of malt[just look at that fantastic colour!]. Great forkicking back in your pad, or (especially ifyou're in Tofino) on the beach. ABV: 5.5%,650ml bottle, tofinobrewingco.com

BLONDE ALE - TOFINO BREWING CO. with Local Fish & Chips

VICTORIA’S ELEVENTH BREWERY OPENED a week before Christmas. Category 12 Brewing isowned and operated by Michael and Karen Kuzyk. Michael has a PhD in microbiology andbiochemistry from the University of Victoria and has worked in life sciences research for the past 20years. He has been an avid home brewer since graduate school and says, “I started home brewingduring grad studies, first as a necessity, but it quickly became a passion of mine. I wanted to turn mypassion into my full-time occupation so I could really explore the creativity of industrial fermentation and,most importantly, share it with others!”

Michael and Karen decided to wait until their family had grown up so they could really concentrateon the brewery. Michael takes care of brewing, and Karen is, as she puts it, “the operations Ninja,”doing just about everything else in the brewery.

Their first beers were a saison and an IDA. Unsanctioned Saison is a Belgian-inspired saison, brewedwith a Trappist yeast. This sets it apart from most of the other B.C. saisons available, being quite a stronglyflavoured beer with plenty of Zythos hops (6.9 ABV and 27 IBUs). The latest release in January wasCritical Point Pale Ale. This is a very tasty Northwest pale ale, brewed with pale and crystal malts andCascade and Falconers Flight hops (5.4 ABV and 49 IBUs). —John Rowling

2200 Keating Cross Rd., Saanichton, open Tues-Sat, noon-6 p.m., category12beer.com

CATEGORY 12 BREWING

The Bite:Local Fish and ChipsHere's hoping by the time this hits thestands, it will be starting to look, andfeel, like spring. Spring means onething for many people; It’s the segueseason to the summertime—not tooearly to bust out the barbeque, andprobably nice enough to have a fewpeople over and eat in the backyard.Go out and grab some local fish andchips, and kick back with some BlondeAle; all you have to do is roll up thenewsprint after you eat, making thisthe easiest party clean-up ever.



Italy Rising

ITALY IS FLYING HIGH WITH THE SUCCESS of Pinot Grigio and Prosecco. While it’seasy to be seduced by these hot exports, don’t overlook the hundreds (literally) ofdare-we-say more interesting wines. We’re even suggesting that you venture beyondpopular favourites like Chianti, Brunello and Amarone. Italy is simply teaming withcountless unique indigenous varieties. Most of these grapes rarely travel outside theircountry of origin and are often confined to one particular region. Rather than let thisoff-the-beaten-track character deter you, buckle up for a lifetime of discovery. Wesuggest getting to know one grape at a time.The enchantingly named region of Friuli-Venezia-Giulia is nestled up in the north-

east of Italy by the Slovenian border. This well-ventilated corner has become renownedfor clean, crisp whites. It boasts a long list of grapes, including Pinot Grigio, SauvignonBlanc and Chardonnay, but Friuli has embraced the local Friulano grape as its flag-ship white. Subtly scented, it offers green herbs and leaves with citrus and stones aswell as fleshy orchard fruit. The best sport a noticeable richness and minerality. Thepalate-cleansing nature of Friulano inspires rib-sticking mountain food. The localswould drink it with San Daniele prosciutto or frico (think flavourful alpine cheesemelted with slices of potato). Raclette would be just as enjoyable.

Originally of Spanish origin, the sun-loving Vermentino grape crops up in some ofnorthwest Italy’s most beautiful seaside areas. Its richest, most full-bodied expressionis found in Sardegna, where it slakes the thirst of beachgoers. On the coastal hillsidesof Liguria, where the famous fishing villages of Cinque Terre are found, Vermentinooffers a slightly more delicate, elegant aperitivo. Examples from the shores of Tuscanyare similar. Lively and lemony with wild herbs and a refreshing salty character,Vermentino begs for grilled white fish. It can also stand up to an assertive pesto sauce.Both Argiolas from Sardegna and Cantina Lunae from Liguria make for impressiveintroductions.The southwestern region of Campania has everything going for it. Besides the

fascinating city of Naples, the drop-dead gorgeous Amalfi coast, the island of Capri andRoman ruins, it was famous for its wines in ancient times. Today they are living up totheir former glory. For whites, the triple threat of Fiano, Greco and Falanghina are allworth discovering. However, there’s something about the overt, extroverted quality ofFalanghina that is simply irresistible. Expect pine forest, orange and juicy stone fruit.A classic pairing would be Caprese salad; that’s tomatoes, Buffalo mozzarella and lotsof fresh basil. You’ll have to wait for summer for this tasty combo. In the meantime,a pizza margherita would do quite nicely.Beyond its lovely whites, Campania’s real claim to fame is the dark-skinned

Aglianico grape. Here it reaches its apogee in the DOCG zone of Taurasi. This inlandarea furnishes Aglianico with exactly what it needs. Besides volcanic soil, for whichAglianico has a great affinity, the altitude provides a long, slow, growing season sothis tough grape can reach full maturity. Equally ideal conditions are found in theneighbouring region of Basilicata, particularly in the Aglianico del Vulture zone.Though it isn’t actually related, Aglianico could be Nebbiolo’s dark southern cousin.High in acid, tannin and alcohol, it has similar aging potential and often needs timebefore being remotely friendly. The fruit expression is darker and even more broodingthan Nebbiolo, but the tarry, tobacco, black tea and earthy notes are equally haunt-ing. Arguably Italy’s third noble grape (after Nebbiolo and Sangiovese), it too is bestenjoyed with food. Try with lamb or wild boar.The king of Piedmont may be Nebbiolo (think Barolo and Barbaresco), but for all of

g TERROIR By Michelle Bouffard and Michaela Morris

We all have our Italian faves, but Italy is rich inindigenous grape varieties worth a sip.

“Buckle up for a lifetime of discovery. Wesuggest getting to know one grape at a time.”


its repute there is actually very little of it grown. Other grapes like Barbera, Dolcetto,Cortese and Arneis have an important place in the vineyard so it is impossible to getbored. Our current obsession is Pelaverga, which was on the verge of extinction beforebeing revived in the 1970s. It certainly has a distinct character. A pale colour and lightbody are unfashionable traits for a red, but we aren’t slaves to trends. We love the redcherry and extreme savouriness that herbal notes like bay leaf and sage impart. Pairwith Cornish hen served with mushrooms cooked in sage. Burlotto makes one of themost highly regarded Pelavergas and a smattering has just made it into B.C. You aremost likely to find it at restaurants like Uva and l’Abattoir in Vancouver. The afford-able and delightful Terre del Barolo is another newcomer.Sicily is a hotbed of interesting and surprising grapes. Frappato has to be its most

charming and could be Italy’s answer to Beaujolais. Bursting with bright berries andflowers, it is framed by very soft supple tannin. And while it is very easy to drink onits own, Frappato is also extremely food friendly. The Sicilian diet is fish rich and thisis a red that can get along well with sea-going creatures such as tuna and salmon. Alsofrom Sicily, Nerello Mascallese thrives on the slopes of Mount Etna. We’ve describedthis grape as Pinot Noir’s rustic and hot-blooded relative. Usually light in colour andmedium-bodied, Nerello Mascalese beguiles with beautiful aromas of spice and flow-ers against a backdrop of warming alcohol. Hello baked chicken with olives and capers.Puglia forms the heel of Italy’s boot. The baking heat and lack of rainfall requires

drought- and heat-resistant grapes, like Negroamaro. Some people translate the nameas “the black bitter” and say this speaks to the grape’s character. Robust and ripe, it willdeliver when you are craving a full-bodied red. It is particularly delicious with spicysausages and slowly braised meat.It’s impossible to limit the vast and rich diversity of Italy’s wine world into a few

paragraphs. This is why we never tire of sipping from this country. Even us wine geekscontinue learning and finding new gems each time we peruse the Italian section at ourlocal wine shop or step foot on Italy’s soil.


E

Whites2013 Tenuta di Angoris, ‘Villa Locatelli’ Friulano, Friuli Isonzo DOC $20-23 (SKU # 466433)Delicate aromas of stone, grass and acacia flowers followed by lemon balm on the palate. Pleasanttexture and minerally with appealing bitter almond notes. Cleansing between bites of raclette.

2012 Terradora, Falanghina, IGT Campania $22-25 (SKU #144790) Juicy with charming notes of nectarines and white peaches. Very quaffable and easy to drink. Theperfect aperitivo or a delight with simply cooked white fish.

2013 Cantine Lunae, Vermentino, Colli di Luni DOC $25-28 (SKU #882209) So fragrant and inviting! Candied pink grapefuit peel with peach and herbal aromas. Creamytexture and fantastic concentration yet still refreshing. Seafood ceviche is a great match.

Reds2013 Terre del Barolo, Verduno Pelaverga DOC $20-23*An intriguing mix of bay leaf, cranberries and rose petal. Very light with barely there tannins. Try withCornish hen accompanied by mushroom cooked in sage.

2011 Apollonio Copertino DOC $22-25 (SKU #482422) Rich, robust and simply bursting with notes of prune, red licorice, fig and coffee. Enjoy with yourfavourite meat stew.

2012 Vigneti Zabù, ‘Il Passo’ Nerello Mascalese Nero d’Avola, Sicily IGT, $23-26 (SKU#699835)Nerello Mascalese teams up with yet another of our favorite Sicilian grapes, Nero d’Avola. A savourycombination of earth and fruity notes with blackberries, mushroom and forest floor. Cozy up and sipwith beef ragu or grilled sausages.

2011 Valle dell’Acate, ‘Il Frappato’ Vittoria Frappato DOC $25-28 (SKU # 23390) Extremely fragrant and floral with succulent raspberry, wild strawberry, a bit of orange zest and verygentle tannin. Serve with a slight chill. Red with fish!

2008 Elena Fucci, 'Titolo' Aglianico del Vulture DOCG $65-72 (SKU #392902) Black salted licorice, smoke and ash with intense blackberry, black cherry and pronounced mineralnotes. Firm but fine tannin. Rack of lamb is in order.

Although late and over budget, check our fresh new look at

www.oughtred.com*Asterisks denote wines that are only available at the winery or select private liquor stores.



g WHAT TO DRINK WITH THAT —By Treve Ring

Charcoal Roast Duck, Bone Marrow, Leeks & Potato(via Rockpool)

LA. Roast duck and pinot noir is a classic pairing, so why screw with tradition. In thisdish the dark meat of the roast duck is infused with a subtle whiff of charcoal smoke,juicy with plenty of fat and a slight gaminess. The supporting cast of bone marrow,leek and potato add richness and an earthy sweetness. Ideally the pinot would be lightto medium bodied with a sweet, earthy fecundity and more than a passing nod tocherry and plum flavours. It would have good acidity and a soft blush of ripe tanninswith a whiff of oak to compliment the smoky, gamey flavours of the bird and cutthrough the fat and richness.

PVR. The slight smoke you get from charcoal roasting and the richness from both thebone marrow and the leeks are driving me to pull a Barolo from the cellar. Thenebbiolo grape has a lovely balance of tannin, acid and smoke that will match theduck beautifully yet still stand up to the texture and tongue coating marrow. Mypreference would lie with a Barolo that is just at the start of its prime drinking windowwith 8 to 10 years of age from a good producer. At this age the tannins shouldn’t be tooaggressive which is key with poultry like duck.

Tea Smoked Quail Breast with Parsnip & Calamari(via Tetsuya)LA. I love this dish! “East meets West,” a play on “Surf and Turf,” very simpleingredients requiring extraordinary precision in the kitchen to pull off. The tea smokedquail breast is very delicate, the skin lightly seared on top, medium-rare and very pinkwith a subtle hint of smokiness. The squid, razor thin, raw and cold with a lovely brinysweetness and silky texture builds on the earthy, sweet root vegetable flavour of theparsnip. A high wire act balancing a multitude of flavours, textures and temperatures.My choice for this beautiful dish is a wine as pleasing to the eye as it is to the palate: aBrut Rosé from Champagne, salmon pink with copper highlights and a fine persistenteffervescence. This classic medium-bodied blend will have just enough ripe fruit, spiceand toast flavours to envelope and compliment the subtle gamey flavours and smokeof the quail and bright acidity to play off the natural sweetness and textures of theparsnip and the squid.

PVR. Initially I was thinking of going with one of my favourite red varieties, the over-looked and underestimated gamay, but the calamari threw me a little. I feel the delicatebalance between the squid and the quail would be lost when paired with even adelicate light red. Hence, I’m going with my gut and saying that riesling is the way togo with this dish. My preference would lie with a well made Mosel Kabinett riesling forthat delicate balance of residual sugar and acid, but a Trocken style from the Nahe orsome of the top Wachau rieslings from Austria would be stellar with this dish as well.

Inspiration : Sydney, Australia

T H I S M O N T H ’ S E X P E R T SLarry Arnold (LA)Product Director, Metro Liquor GroupLarry Arnold is the Product Director for the Metro Liquor Group and a contributing writer to EATmagazine. Larry has been a fixture in the Victoria wine scene for 30 years and was formerly aProduct Consultant at the BCLDB in Victoria where he sat on the LDB’s listing panel and alsoparticipated on the BC Wine Institute’s VQA Gold Standard panel. During this time he co-founded theVictoria Wine Society and co-chaired the British Columbia-Sonoma Wine Festival and the PacificNorthwest Wine Festival in Victoria. He has judged at the All Canadian Wine Awards, and is acontributing writer to the book, Island Wineries of British Columbia.

Peter Van de Reep (PVR)Bar Manager, Upstairs at Campagnolo, VancouverVan de Reep moved to Vancouver to pursue an education in geology but quickly was won over by thehospitality industry following graduation. After a nearly decade stint as a barista at some of WesternCanada’s top cafes, Van de Reep made the jump into the restaurant world, joining the team atCampagnolo ROMA in 2012 to work behind the bar. In early 2014, he opened Upstairs atCampagnolo where he tends the bar with a classic approach to spirits, cocktails and wine.



g LIQUID ASSETS —By Larry Arnold

It's spring! Come in and pick your new favourite wine!

Open 7 days a week

5325 Cordova Bay Rd. 250-658-3116

Our service can best be described as“Knowledgeable, yet not pretentious……approachable, with a hint of sass!”

ON THIS FARM THERE ARE SOME WINE CHICKS...

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www.vqawineshop.ca

VQA Wine Shop

Established 1998

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Borthwick Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc 2014 New Zealand $24.00-25.00Ouch! This unbelievably juicy Sauvignon Blanc from the heart of the Wairarapa,tucked away on the southern tip of New Zealand’s north island, is a must try. Goose-berry, guava, pineapple, passion fruit, yes, it is all here. A veritable potpourri oftropical fruit aromas and flavours. Fresh, clean and balanced with a cut ofmouthwatering acidity. Highly recommended!

Teddy Hall Chenin Blanc 2011 South Africa $15.00-17.00Chenin Blanc from Stellenbosch can be absolutely delicious and this fine white doesnot disappoint. Crisp and clean with lively tropical fruit flavours and a rich core ofzingy acidity.

Chateau Teyssier Pezat Blanc Bordeaux Supérieur 2013 France $25.00-27.00Château Teyssier is a “garagiste” located in the heart of the Saint Emilion Appellation.Rated as a Saint Emilion Grand Cru, the chateau has a reputation for producing highquality reds at prices to match, but in 2005, utilizing fruit sourced just outside theappellation, Teyssier started producing generic Bordeaux under the Pezat label. Thequality is superb and so are the prices! The white is a blend of barrel fermentedSauvignon Blanc (85%) and Semillon (15%). Rich and creamy, with fig, citrus andmelon flavours, balanced with nicely integrated oak and refreshing acidity! Top-notch!

Tyrrell’s Lost Block Hunter Valley Semillon 2012 Australia $18.00-21.00Fresh and inviting with tropical fruit, citrus and hay aromas! Light to medium-bodiedwith concentrated citrus and herb flavours, juicy acidity and a long clean finish.

Poggio Al Tufo Vermentino 2011 Italy $19.00-21.00The Tommasi family is better know for their bevy of refined whites and reds from theVeneto but if this is any indication of things to come we have much to look forwardto. Light and fresh with a nose of spring flowers. Delicious with ripe apple andmineral nuances on the palate, soft acidity and a lovely fresh finish.

Bodegas Muriel Reserva Rioja 2008 Spain $28.00-30.00Bodegas Muriel is absolutely delicious. A classic reserva, aged for 24 months in a mixof French and American oak barrels, then aged for an additional two years before beingreleased. Ruby red with menthol, ripe berry, tobacco and vanilla on the nose! Thepalate is an explosion of savoury fruit flavours with subtle anise and spice notes andgreat complexity. Fresh and balanced with good acidity, soft tannins and a longpersistent finish! Suberb!

Franklin Tate Estate Alexander’s Vineyard Cab Sauvignon 2012 Australia$26.00-28.00When it comes to Aussie Cabernet, the Margaret River region takes center stage. Veryrich and concentrated with ripe cassis, menthol, cinnamon and bay leaf aromas. Full-bodied with ripe fruit flavours and well-rounded tannins, culminating in a lovely softfinish that just keeps going.

Thorn-Clarke Shotfire Quartage 2011 Australia $27.00-29.00Shotfire Quartage is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (52%), Cabernet Franc (20%),Malbec (13%) and Petit Verdot (15%) aged in French oak for 12 months. Inky blackwith lifted aromas of cassis, violets and menthol. Medium to full-bodied, with denselayers of juicy black fruit and spice flavours with a gentle blush of fine, silky tanninsand a long supple finish! Delicious.

Bleasedale Mulberry Tree Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 Australia $18.00-20.00Aged twelve months in previously used French oak, Bleasedale Cabernet Sauvignon isredolent with cassis, mint, violets and vanilla aromas. Plush and silky with spicy, fruitflavours and a supple tannic structure. Another great buy from Australia.

McWatters Collection Meritage 2011 Okanagan Valley $25.00-27.00Very stylish with sweet blackberry, cassis and spice notes on the nose. This classicblend of Cabernet Sauvignon (40%), Merlot (31%) and Cabernet Franc (29%) reallycomes through on the palate with ripe berry, spice and pepper flavours, soft tanninsand nicely integrated oak. Very elegant with a great deal of finesse. E



Vegetarian & Gluten Wise Options

THE LOCAL LISTEAT’s where to find it guide

EAT Magazine is available thanks to the support of our advertisers. Please support them whenever you can

THE APPLE BOXFrozen Meals with a Local Emphasis - The Apple Box'Seasonal Menu or Food Box consists of Frozen Dinners,Appetizers & Desserts made with Local hormone freepasture raised meats, local produce & organicingredients. Available In Store 1725 Cook Stwww.theapplebox.ca250-590-6257

HUDSON’S ON FIRST Award winning dining in a beautifully restored heritagehome. Local ingredients, classic techniques and madefrom scratch cooking are a just few reasons to visit us inDuncan more often.Celebrate Bubbles & Brunch, Lunch and Dinner.163 First St. Duncan250-597-0066www.hudsonsonfirst.ca

THE COMMUNITY FARM STOREThe Community Farm Store, organic health and wholefood market in Duncan. Open 7 days per week. 10,0000square feet of planet friendly market style shopping …with heart. No GMO’s! Good for you, good for the planet.

5380 Trans Canada Hwy, Duncan250-748-6227www.communityfarmstore.ca

FIG DELICATESSENFig Delicatessen, caters to the Mediterranean soul.Featuring everything from pomegranate molasses topreserved lemons, and a wide selection of Olive Oils. Wewill provide you with more than enough inspiration fortonight's dinner. While you shop, enjoy one of ourdelicious options for a healthy, and fresh meal. Open allweek.�1551 Cedar Hill Road (south side between Cedar HillCrossroad and Shelbourne)�1-250-727-3632�[email protected]

FERNWOOD ROAD CAFEA fun, relaxed and welcoming place to hang out, enjoythe waterfront view and soak in the North Salt SpringIsland vibe. Oh yeah, and have a pretty darn goodcoffee as well.325 Fernwood Rd.Salt Spring Island, BC, V8K 1C3250-931-2233, www.fernwoodcafe.com

HASTINGS HOUSE Dining RoomVoted the World’s Best Romantic Hotel in 2014,"Hastings House offers both Fine and Casual dining ineither the main dining room or in our newly designedBistro. Both menus are inspired by award winning chefMarcel Kauer using the freshest of local ingredients"www.hastingshouse.com1-800-661-9255160 Upper Ganges Road, Salt Spring Island

SPECIALTY SHOPS

SALT SPRING ISLANDMEALS TO GO

DUNCAN

1-800-661-9255Salt Spring Island

www.hastingshouse.com



What the Pros Know For this issue, we asked staff at local specialty grocerystores to tell us about one ingredient or product they feelis underappreciated

TALK By Rebecca Baugniet

Yasser Youssef, Owner, Fig Deli, 250-727-3632My choice for an ingredient that more people should know about is pomegranatemolasses. It has unlimited health benefits due to high levels of antioxidants, as wellas a tremendous culinary value. It is most commonly used in salad dressings,marinades, reductions and dips. The best part is it is also very reasonably priced!

Gokhan Duman, Owner, Seven Valleys Fine Food and Deli, 250-382-9998I would say sumac is the most underappreciated ingredient I sell. This spice is a littlebit sour, a little bit citrusy, and adds great flavour when marinating meats. It is veryversatile – widely used in Iran with meats and in Turkey in salad dressings. It is alsothe key ingredient in za’atar (spice blend). The sumac we carry comes from Lebanonor Turkey and is a great addition to your spice collection.

Leon Zetler, Owner, Aubergine Specialty Foods, 250-590-1031Mrs. Ball’s Chutney. This is a fantastic South African product that is underappreciatedhere in Canada. Made with peaches and apricots, it comes in three varieties; OriginalRecipe, Hot Chutney and Peach Chutney. My favourite is the Hot Chutney – it addsthat extra ‘oomph’ or bite to your meal. Great with curries and stews, it is an excellentwinter condiment. You can tell a good chutney by the way it pours out of the jar – theslower the pour, the better the quality of the chutney.

Ten Liu, Employee, Fisgard Market, 250-383-6969Something I would like more people to know about is our selection of fresh herbs andspices; fresh lime leaves, fresh turmeric, fresh galangal and fresh lemongrass. Theseingredients are very common in many Asian cuisines, but can be hard to find locally.We have a great supplier in Vancouver and the quality of these ingredients is excellent.

Mat, Owner, Blair Mart, (250) 721-1626The ingredient more people should know about is barberry (barberis). It has ten timesmore antioxidants than any other berry, including goji. We sell dried barberry fromIran – it is very common in Persian cooking and is especially good in a rice pilaf withsaffron. It is also used as a garnish, with chopped pistachios on top of rice dishes, orcooked with chicken. You can also put it on top of your cereal, or in smoothies – it isvery versatile.

Lauren Cafe, Dry Goods Expert, Ottavio Italian Bakery and Delicatessen, (250) 592-4080One product we’d like more people to be aware of is the Frantoio Muraglia ExtraVirgin Olive Oil. It is one of our newer olive oils, priced at $13 for 250ml. It comes ina sealed tin so it stores well, light can’t damage it, and the packaging is beautiful, somakes a great gift. It is the most buttery olive oil in the house at the moment -samples available on request.

Masami Hayashi, Manager, Fujiya Japanese Foods, (250) 598-3711There are two items we sell that we feel are rather underappreciated. The first one isgobo, known here in Canada as burdock root. We sometimes get it from Umi Namifarm in Metchosin, but if it’s not available then we import it from China. It’s reallygood for you – it has lots of fiber. You can stir-fry it or add it to stews, so it’s veryversatile. The second product we chose is shirataki noodles – a zero-calorie noodlemade from yams. We get them from Japan and they are great in soups and othernoodle dishes.

can



VICTORIA: Without a doubt, the biggest buzz around town at the moment is the recent announcement that

Whole Foods Market will, at long last, be opening a location at Uptown. Rumours have been

circulating for some time on this very subject, so it is nice to have them confirmed. However, fans of the Texas-

based grocery chain will need to be patient a little longer – the store has yet to be built (as part of

Uptown’s Phase 3 development), and the anticipated opening is slated for Fall 2016.

(wholefoodsmarket.com) How exactly is this exciting from a local food perspective, you may be wonder-

ing. For those not yet familiar with the brand, Whole Foods specializes in organic and natural foods, and

the company likes to invest in local food producers. To this end, they have already announced a $58k

low-interest loan to Comox Valley-based Tree Island Gourmet Yogurt company, to allow them to expand

operations. (treeislandyogurt.com)

Tree Island Yogurt is popping up at more and more locations, and is the base for Kulture Frozen

Yogurt, served at the recently rebranded Fresh Coast Health Food Bar at 3749 Shelbourne St. In

addition to the small batch froyo, Fresh Coast specializes in cold pressed juices. These raw, unpasteurized

juices are pressed and bottled in store. Other menu items include the Cowichan Cesar wrap, the Sprout

Lake salad and the Saanich Fair smoothie. freshcoasthealthfoodbar.com) Fellow caffeine addicts, you have

a couple of new spots to try out: Ground Control Café has opened in the Tectoria building at 777 Fort

St, boasting the most powerful fibre optic Wi-Fi in their Tilted Rocket work/study lounge.

(facebook.com/groundcontrolcafe) And Second Crack Coffee Lab is now open at 2612 Bridge St. The

lab takes its name from the stage in the roasting profile “where the bean starts to reveal its full flavour”.

(secondcrack.ca) Cook’s Day Off has opened the Vista Bistro in the new Toyota dealership at 3050

Douglas St. (cooksdayoff.ca)

Jojo’s Jajangmyeon, the Korean restaurant on Cedar Hill X Road closed late last year and a new

Chinese restaurant, Heart of Asia has taken over the location. After a kitchen fire caused extensive

damage to the restaurant in late January, Market Square’s Café Mexico is closed until further notice.

(cafemexico.com) Another Market Square food stop, The Baked Potato, also closed its doors this winter

(though unrelated to the fire). Over on Fort St. Little Jumbo has a welcomed a new chef, Jesse Cole, as

well as a new GM, Chris Jones. (littlejumbo.ca) Change is also afoot at Ulla, rumoured to be undergoing

a rebranding to Olo – stay tuned.

If you are looking for a contemporary twist on Japanese food, then the place to try is The Next, a new

Japanese restaurant on Cook St. Chef Takashi Hiraoka (former sushi chef at the Brentwood Bay Resort)

is trained in French cuisine and brings a fresh approach, and new flavour profiles, to the Japanese menu.

People are raving about innovative combinations like roasted garlic and Ahi tuna or salmon sushi with

thyme. (Read a full review online at eatmagazine.ca/first-look-the-next-in-cook-st-village).

Coming up in May is a little event I’m involved in and wanted to let you know about, if you’ll kindly

pardon the self-promotion. A few months ago, the Greater Victoria Public Library approached me about

hosting some sort of food-writing event, and the idea for a program called Food Bloggers Dish! came to

life. On the evening of May 20th, I will be hosting a panel discussion about food blogging with three of

Victoria’s most accomplished food bloggers; Amy Bronee (familyfeedbag.com), Elizabeth Nyland

(guiltykitchen.com) and Heidi Fink (chefheidifink.com/blog). The event is free but there are a limited

number of seats, so early registration is recommended. You can register online at www.gvpl.ca - I hope to

see some of you there! —REBECCA BAUGNIET

COWICHAN VALLEY | UP ISLAND: March has come once again, making me think back to when I was

a kid growing up in Ontario, loaded into the station wagon to pick spring onions, wild asparagus or ramps

in the spring, and strawberries and raspberries through the summer. I couldn't wait to sample, picking

double because I knew I'd eat at least half before we ever got home. These days it's much harder to align

my foraging expeditions with what is growing and when so I sometimes have to rely on local restaurants

to get my fix.

A good place to start is the Cowichan area with Deerholme Farms Spring Foraging Workshop, Spring

Equinox Dinner and Mushroom Cooking Class starting in March. And keep an eye out for Blue Grouse

Estate Winery to showcase their new tasting room soon too. In April, Cowichan hosts the Cowichan

Valley Whiskey Festival for an extended look at all things whiskey, including a night of tasting along with

appetizers at the Oceanfront Suites in Cow Bay. (cvwhiskeyfest.ca), (deerholme.com) or (bluegrouse.ca)

for details.

Moving on to Salt Spring, there is ample opportunity to get fresh- from-the-dirt delicacies at the famous

Salt Spring Island Saturday Market in Ganges which opens for the season on April 4th. The Relais &

Chateaux boutique Hastings House Hotel opens on March 1st with new GM Eric Bishop and an inno-

vative 3-course $38 Prix Fixe menu from award winning chef Marcel Kauer. The freshest local

ingredients will go into this evolving menu such as pacific seafood hot pot, famed Salt Spring lamb and

wild blackberry creme brûlée along with a new wine list to compliment the exceptional cuisine. Calvin's

Bistro in Ganges has been recently sold and reportedly taken over by the owners of The Local. Look for

a June or later opening and more details to follow. Also look for a new seafood menu from chef Shawn

Walton of the wonderful Auntie Pesto's to debut Dungeness crab several ways this spring! For the first

time there are two food trucks on Salt Spring to choose from; El Loco Taco and a new Greek truck called

The Buzz

Original culinary exchange program pairs Vancouver Islandstop talent with industry innovators from the west coast ofNorth America.

OnTheLeftCoast.com and EAT Magazine present a three part dinnerseries and industry outreach program featuring edible highlights fromTofino, Portland and Seattle. A rotating host of local venues in anexciting pop-up format will be happen on the third Sunday of eachmonth.

First up is Sobo - a destination restaurant with visitors making thepilgrimage to the west coast of Vancouver Island just to taste chefLisa Ahier's cooking--which is, to use Tofino slang, simply "killer".Spinnakers, 308 Catherine St, Victoria, Phone:(250) 386-2739

Chef Lisa Ahier of Sobo with Chef Ali Ryan

atSpinnakers Gastro Brewpub

April 19th, 20157pm - 9pm

Tickets: $60 at Spinnakers and leftcoasthouseguest.com

OnTheLeftCoast.com and EAT Magazine present

HOUSEGUEST: A NEW SERIES OF CURATED POP-UP CULINARY EXPERIENCES



Ethos Mediterranean Food Cart. Find them in various strategic locations around Ganges. Visit

(hastingshouse.com), (auntiepestos.com)

Just like those Russian nesting dolls that when opened reveal new and exciting things, longtime Island

favorite McLean's Specialty Foods in Nanaimo appears to be familiar on the outside but is filled with

delectable European specialties inside, waiting for your discovery. This April 6th marks McLean's 23rd

anniversary and there are sure to be lots of extra reasons to make it a must-stop, from local cheeses to

hard to find stiltons and beautiful bacon! stop in for some soup and one of the best BLT's to be found

on this island whilst you fill your basket with goodies to go with your freshly foraged bounty.

(mcleansfoods.com)

You may have already heard the buzz about chef Ryan Zuvichs' newest venture La Stella in

Nanaimo's Old Quarter where he serves a menu of Napoli style wood fired pizza with a local and

seasonal trend, but if you have ever been lucky enough to dine at his French inspired Hilltop Bistro

you'll know it's worth a look, without a word being spoken. Manvirro's Indian Grill has opened a

second location - the original being in Courtenay - on Terminal Ave in Nanaimo, serving authentic East

Indian flavours. You can peruse their full menus at (manvirrosindiangrill.com), (lastellatrattoria.com)

So, foregoing any digging, or long road trips it's simple to sample our spring delicacies without going

to too much trouble or compromising any business deadlines. Get out there and let your taste buds

remember what your heart hasn't forgotten. —KIRSTEN TYLER

TOFINO: The Schooner Restaurant and Lounge is celebrating 66 years in business this year at its

331 Campbell St. location in downtown Tofino. When the storied building—originally the hospital

building at the World War II base at Long Beach—was moved to its present location in 1949, it was still

in the middle of the woods. How times have changed! Always a restaurant, it was first Vic’s Coffee Bar,

then the Lone Cone Café. Current owners the Bruce family took over in 1968, and the restaurant

became well known for matriarch Gloria Bruce’s Schooner burgers and fish and chips. Three Vietnam

War draft dodgers were the visionaries for the ship that sailed its way into the dining room in 1974,

becoming a permanent part of the architecture of the building. Current owner Mare Bruce renovated

the building, adding an upstairs lounge and dining area. Other than venturing in for a Titan Caeser or

the famous Admiral’s Plate, you can also experience the Schooner with a spring cooking class. Each

class has a theme, and is geared to both the beginner and advanced chef. For more information call

250-725-3444 or visit (schoonerrestaurant.ca) for more information.

The little bus that could continues to expand its reach with new Tacofino restaurant locations in

Victoria and Gastown. In Vancouver, the Blood Alley location at 15 W. Cordova is a take-out burrito

bar and sit-down taco bar with many new menu items and cocktails. That makes three Vancouver

locations to sample this Tofino-born Mexican fare — the Commissary, a mobile food truck (currently

closed for the winter), and now the Gastown location. The Victoria location, at 787 Fort St. (featured

in the Jan-Feb edition of EAT), joins the burrito truck to expand Tacofino’s offerings there. Luckily the

Tofino location is also going strong, and open year-round at it’s 1180 Pacific Rim location (back of the

lot). (tacofino.com)

Wildside Grill reopened in February after some winter renovations to its kitchen space at the 1180

Pacific Rim Hwy location in the Live to Surf complex. We look forward to another season of fresh

seafood and amazing to-go staples! See the menu at (wildsidegrill.com).

The SoBo Cookbook: Recipes from the Tofino Restaurant at the End of the Canadian Road by Lisa

Ahier was recently named one of the best 20 cookbooks of 2014 by The Globe and Mail. After a brief

winter closure, SoBo Restaurant was back open for business Feb. 16. (sobo.ca)

As noted in a previous column, the owners of the Spotted Bear Bistro have converted that restaurant

into a new venture called Kuma Tofino (Kuma means bear in Japanese). Opened in January, Kuma

serves Japanese comfort food in a casual, relaxed atmosphere. Also proprietors of Shika Provisions

on Bowen Island, Rob Leadley and Mitsumi Kawai now bring the tradition of Mitsumi’s family recipes

to Kuma. The restaurant, located at 101-120 Fourth St. (in the Wilson Building at the corner of Fourth

and Campbell Sts.), is currently open 4-Close Wed-Sun, and Kuma hour, with food and drink specials,

is daily from 4-5:30pm. Visit (kumatofino.com) for more information.

We are looking forward to another Pacific Rim Whale Festival, scheduled for March 14-22 this

year. Many food-inspired events are part of this popular Spring Break festival, included a salmon

barbecue to open the festivities and the Chowder Chowdown on the final day.

Visit pacificrimwhalefestival.com for a complete listing of events. —JEN DART

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Eat magazine march | april 2015